Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v5.0

[nitroguy2001]

hey does anybody know if ae is going to sell the new rearend in a package or does it have to be bought in seperate peices?

[RCNitroDude999]

Does anyone know what a front solid axle would do for the handling of the car? I like the front one ways but I dont like only having rear brakes since I am running on a shorter track. I know a solid axle would give front brakes with the action of a one way, but i know theres a catch somewhere.......

[trickedoutGT]

Originally posted by nitroguy2001
hey does anybody know if ae is going to sell the new rearend in a package or does it have to be bought in seperate peices? It's going to be have to be purchased seperately.

[jnegrx]

A solid axe up front will give you the same effect as a front one-way but you will still be able to brake with all four tires. The car will wonder a bit on the strait and if it's bumpy will move a lot. I have used this a couple of times but i find that it can also push a little entering corners.

[LoSick]

hey guys, I´m getting my first on road. went for the ntc3 team for value and performace. the factory is way over my budget so the team is my choice along with the os tr 12. since the track is huge, dirty and fast (karting track), what tires do you recommend me. (thought of the hawgs or speed hawgs), and what spur bell combination will give the best speed and torque. Also, what are the most common parts that get broken along with what are the must have hop ups neccesary to make it a winner. I catch up very fast since this will be my 3 car. got a 1/10 4x2 truck and a 1/8 buggy and with both I´ve raced on asphalt, specially with the 1/10 and this motivated me to get my first on road.
thanks

[Anemic_SluG]

Originally posted by jnegrx
A solid axe up front will give you the same effect as a front one-way but you will still be able to brake with all four tires. The car will wonder a bit on the strait and if it's bumpy will move a lot. I have used this a couple of times but i find that it can also push a little entering corners.

In march's Extreme Rc (not to pimp other brands mags) They have an article on front one ways, spools, and ball diffs...Just a FYI.

[balmung]

i got a ntc3 team kit and a os .12 cv-rx i was wonder what else should i get i have about 100 doller spending limit and i do most my buying at towers i also got The Fix already im going to race with a R40,rtr ntc3 with 2 speed,rs4 2 and a type ss both stock with 2 speed thnx in advance

[Temjin006]

Which One way diff is better, the associated or the yokomo? Will the assoicated one way outdrive fit the yokomo? I am trying to switch my ntc3's ball diff to one way and solid. I drove my friend's car and with this setup, the car can coast the turn turns closer than with ball diff. Also with ball diff, the brake tends to lock up too hard when i slow down for the turns but with the oneway/solid setup i was able to brake and exit faster.

[Nitro41]

From what I've heard, the Yokomo one-way is better overall than the Associated product. Hope this helps.:D

[jnegrx]

They are the same product.

The first AE one ways were bad and they now have another one called the heavy duty oneway. But it's the same as the Yokomo. I read this a while back in AE's Q&A forum.

[ritchies rc10gt]

the only thing im not liking about the new rear end is the ball link on top of the hub carrier.but it would be nice not to have to replace the hub carrier every time i hit something and break the piece the ball stud go into.

[paladin]

Originally posted by LoSick
hey guys, I´m getting my first on road. went for the ntc3 team for value and performace. the factory is way over my budget so the team is my choice along with the os tr 12. since the track is huge, dirty and fast (karting track), what tires do you recommend me. (thought of the hawgs or speed hawgs), and what spur bell combination will give the best speed and torque. Also, what are the most common parts that get broken along with what are the must have hop ups neccesary to make it a winner. I catch up very fast since this will be my 3 car. got a 1/10 4x2 truck and a 1/8 buggy and with both I´ve raced on asphalt, specially with the 1/10 and this motivated me to get my first on road.
thanks

nice choice!

theres really not a whole lot of hopups you need, the car comes pretty good outta the box, but heres some things i'd reccomend
#1 The Fix (if you ever wanna race your car you should head over to ebay and pick up a couple of these kits.)
#2 If the track is huge like you say, i'd bump up to a 27t pinion gear for the added top speed.
#3 one more thing. a flat 5-cell hump pack fits in there awesome, it should come stock on the car

[LoSick]

paladin, thanks! cant´wait to order it

[trini2debone]

I am looking to put a new engine in my TC3 and was looking at the Sirio 15, which has had good reviews, and the Sirio 18.

I am not sure if the Sirio 18 will fit in my vehicle. Has anyone tried to do this???

[tallyrc]

i serched without success, maybe someone can remember. a while back someone was making luminum rear body mounts for the ntc3 that went backwards from the shock tower and supported the body under the wing, not the window. anybody remember who made them? thanks

[Walt]

Originally posted by LoSick
hey guys, I´m getting my first on road. went for the ntc3 team for value and performace. the factory is way over my budget so the team is my choice along with the os tr 12. since the track is huge, dirty and fast (karting track), what tires do you recommend me. (thought of the hawgs or speed hawgs), and what spur bell combination will give the best speed and torque. Also, what are the most common parts that get broken along with what are the must have hop ups neccesary to make it a winner. I catch up very fast since this will be my 3 car. got a 1/10 4x2 truck and a 1/8 buggy and with both I´ve raced on asphalt, specially with the 1/10 and this motivated me to get my first on road.
thanks

I get blasted every time I bring this up, but I still think it's good advice, so I'll give it...

Many of the screws on AE kits thread into plastic parts. Unfortunately, AE uses machine screws (mostly 4-40's) for everything (machine screws are designed to thread into metal, not plastic). The machine screws will hold in the plastic, for a while, but then they will strip out. In fact, if you just use the right screws from the beginning, you don't need 'the fix'... that's a crutch needed because the AE screws pull out too easily.

It doesn't cost much to buy an assortment of screws actually intended to thread into plastic and use them everywhere possible that AE has 4-40's threaded into plastic. I choose HPI screws for most of my car (very good design of their 'TP' series screws), but screws made by Koyosho and Tamiya and Duratrax (just to name a few) are also very good.

It takes a little effort to do this (replace as many screws as possible), but you won't need 'the fix' (although it is still a VERY sound design, and not a bad idea for the ultimate in strength), and you won't have all sorts of other problems with screws stripping or pulling out, especially after you've taken those screws out a dozen times for maintenance.

OK... now's where everyone tells me AE screws are great, but at the same time tell everyone they need 'the fix' because the AE screws can't hold the shock tower on... everyone who has purchased 'the fix' is proof that AE uses the wrong screws in their kits.

[nitroguy2001]

hey who has the new rear end so far? Im really curious about how it is working. And if it is going to be worth the switch. Im sure it will be but some other input would be great
thanks
Brian~

[cbr74]

Wow... did I read that right... you ACTUALLY believe tapping screws are superior to machine screws?

Granted AE's hardware isn't the best quality... but machine screws have twice the thread face that tapping screws do. Twice the surface area= twice the holding power. Surface area is directly proportional to friction.

The reason you're getting the results you are with tapping screws is because you're using metrics... AE is SAE.

Hardware from HPI, Kyosho, Traxxas, etc. is all metric. 3mm metric screws are larger than 4-40 so by virtue of their added size... they'll grip better but put a 3mm machine screw in place if that 3mm tapping screw and it'll grip that much better.

The first thing I do with any kit is ditch all the tapping screws for machine screws. They are less prone to strip out and less prone to loosening.

I won't sing the virtues of AE hardware, but I also won't tell anyone they NEED "The Fix". I haven't suffered a shocktower failure in all the time I've run my NTC3... but I'm also not using stock hardware. It's SAE... but it isn't stock.

[Walt]

Originally posted by cbr74
Wow... did I read that right... you ACTUALLY believe tapping screws are superior to machine screws?

Absolutely, unquestionably, yes, for tapping and holding into plastic. And wood screws are better than machine screws for tapping and holding into wood. And sheet metal screws are superior to machine screws for tapping and holding into sheet metal. It's a matter of design for a particular application. Machine screws have their place, but that place is not tapping and getting a good grip in plastic.

I guess there isn't much point in arguing this... every time I suggest using screws that are actually designed to do the job they are asked to do, someone disagrees. And that's fine. I won't mention it again until someone else asks again for advice... And by your logic, next time you hang dry wall in your house, use machine screws... more threads per inch, so they must do a better job of holding into wood than drywall screws which are actually designed to hold onto wood.

Oh, and friction force is not directly proportional to surface area... friction force is equal to the coefficient of friction times the normal force... surface area isn't even in the equation. You can check any engineering text to confirm that.

[thunderbt3]

yup, walt is correct

im a sophmore mech engineering major and we learned in my statics:

Friction Force = Coeff. Friction (static or kinetic) x Normal Force

Self tapping screws will definatly hold better in plastic than machine screws but i guess i stick with machine screws because im so used to them (rc10gt, ntc3)

sorry walt hehe

i bet ill be racing with ya at TP or AJ's one day and strip a screw or break a diff case and ull be like "shoulda use the self tapping screws"

hehe

[cbr74]

*sigh* I thought I explained this well enough the first time... I guess not.

Let me give some real simple examples...

Thread a screw into a piece of plastic 1/4".... see how much force it takes to pull it out... now thread a screw into a piece of plastic 1/2" and see how much force it takes to pull it out. It takes more... why? Because there's more contact area.

Now compare a tapping screw to a machine screw of the SAME diameter. The machine screw has more threads... hence more contact area. That additional contact area is providing more force against the plastic. The additional force is what proportionally increases the friction.

Let me drive my point home a little more... which is more difficult to thread into plastic... a tapping screw or a machine screw? The machine screw.

Which creates more heat when being threaded into the plastic? The machine screw.

So ask yourself this.... if one takes more force to thread it in and creates more heat doing it... which one is going to hold better?

The arm-chair physicists can theorize all they like... my position is based on real world experience.

[thunderbt3]

the only reason why machine screws generate so much heat and why its difficult for it to screw in is becaus it hast to basically PUSH the plastic around it away as you screw it in and all the heat is caused by the friction of the first thread trying to push the material away.

for self tappers, the first thread DIGS the material away, thats why thier easier to screw in.

im not bashing on machine screws, im a fan of them. ive gotten used to using them on my AE cars and i like the look of the hex socket cap on the cars, it looks more "professional" i guess. I dont think ive ever seen hex head self tappers, i guess most of them are phillips head and theyre more prone to stripping the head out.

[rodf911]

So what's the consensus? Is it better to change the TC3's screws with ones such as:

http://www.rcscrewz.com/

or a set from duratrax, kyosho, or HPI.

That would be kind of unfortunate, especially if you've invested in a good set of standard hex drivers.

[Walt]

Originally posted by rodf911
So what's the consensus? Is it better to change the TC3's screws with ones such as:

http://www.rcscrewz.com/

or a set from duratrax, kyosho, or HPI.

That would be kind of unfortunate, especially if you've invested in a good set of standard hex drivers.

Well, there is no concensus. There are two different opinions here. You'll have to make up your own mind.

I don't think it's worth my time to give sound, engineering and 'laws of physics' explanations just to have someone say 'if you have real world experience you can defy the laws of physics'... but I do it anyways.

I am a registered professional mechanical engineer. I design and specify fasteners for a living. Screws designed to get a hold on plastic will do a better job than screws designed to get a hold on metal if you are threading into plastic. If I designed something and specified machine screws to thread into plastic, I could loose my engineering license. It's 'design 101'... choose the proper fastener for the application.

It isn't even a mater of friction. Friction keeps a screw from backing out, but when a screw strips out, it's a matter of shearing the plastic. With a fine, shallow thread screw like a machine screw, you just aren't digging deep enough into the plastic to get a good grip, even though you are doing it 'more often' (more threads per inch). You need a deep, coarse thread design to get a good grip in something as 'soft' as plastic. Metal has a much higher shear strength than plastic, so screws designed to thread into metal can have fine threads.

Cbr's reasonging makes no sense.. what the heck does heat when putting a fastener in have to do with how difficult it is to strip the fastner out? Is he saying that a 4-40 machine screw will hold better in plastic then in a steel nut designed (tapped) for a 4-40 machine screw... it takes NO effort to screw the 4-40 screw into a 4-40 steel nut, and a whole lot of effort to thread it into plastic as he points out... so what? Clearly the steel nut will be MUCH harder to strip out than the plastic one. Again... when a screw strips out it isn't a matter of friction.

I just thought of a good test you can run right at home. Take two screws of equal length... about 1/2" long. One of them a 4-40 machine screw, the other one a self taping screw designed to thread into plastic (such as the HPI TP series). Grab the head of each, one at a time, with a pair of pliers. Then grab the 'thread' end as tight as you can between your thumb and pointer finger. See which one is easier to pull out of your finger grip. The 4-40 will pull out easily. The self taping screw will be very difficult to pull out of your grip, and will probably result in a bloody finger tip and thumb. But how can this be??? More threads MUST mean a better grip in anything, including your fingers... nope.

Make up your own mind. If you want, you can get some good books on fastener design and fastener specification. If you can't find any, let me know and I can look back through my old engineering text books and make a recommendation for you.

Plenty of people are perfectly happy with the stock AE screws, and you might be one of them. But on the other hand, I know very few AE car owners that haven't had some screws strip out, and I know very, very few who own the NTC3 and haven't had the shock towers pull right off the differential case because the screws stripped out. Or the differential cases pull off the chassis. No one dies when this happens, but it's annoying.

[cbr74]

An HPI TP screw will bite deeper into a 4-40 hole than a 4-40 screw will. Because it's METRIC. Like I said before... 3mm is larger than 4-40.

It baffles me that a Mechanical Engineer such as yourself recommends a metric fastener for an SAE application.

[Walt]

Originally posted by cbr74
An HPI TP screw will bite deeper into a 4-40 hole than a 4-40 screw will. Because it's METRIC. Like I said before... 3mm is larger than 4-40.

It baffles me that a Mechanical Engineer such as yourself recommends a metric fastener for an SAE application.

SAE application??? It's a hole in a piece of plastic.

And at this point, I really don't care if you think the TP screw holds better because it somehow knows it's metric (???) or because it's just a better design for holding onto plastic... either way, it will hold better, so why not use it?

So, why does AE make the holes in their plastic parts the proper size for a metric screw and then supply 4-40's? Maybe it's really a metric application and they supply the wrong screws?

BTW: just pullled out my trusty digital calipers... 4-40 screw overall diameter: 0.1100"... HPI TP screw I use instead: 0.1150", so it's only five thousandths of an inch larger (0.0050"). In my opinion, those are essentially the same size. It's the shape of the threads that really give you the bennifit. Again, try to pull one out of your fingers... it's the threads shape, not the size that makes the difference.

How's this for a compromise. I'll recommend that people use the included AE screws when they first build their car. If any of them strip out when you assemble the car, then putting in a TP screw or other screw intended to thread into plastic (of the appropriate size) makes for a very good repair. Have some TP screws from HPI (or equivilent) handy in your tool box. If any screws strip out while you are at the track, you'll have the screws available to make repairs. You don't have to believe me... just try it. A small bag of screws will cost you a buck... not an expensive experiment.

In my opinion, the TP type screw will hold better if you use it from the beginning rather than waiting for the machine screw to strip out first, but it's probably not that important.

And no hard feelings when it comes to these discussions. This is how we all learn and move forward.

[cbr74]

Maybe it's really a metric application and they supply the wrong screws?
Entirely possible.

it's only five thousandths of an inch larger (0.0050"). In my opinion, those are essentially the same size.
It's only 5 thousandths... obviously an engineer and not a machinist. :p

makes for a very good repair.
I'll give you that one. AE racers have been using that trick for years.

And no hard feelings when it comes to these discussions
Hard feelings... none whatsoever. I love a spirited debate.

I do wonder... how much difference does it make when you're using the carbon parts? My NTC3 has the full carbon package... maybe the 4-40's hold better in the carbon parts than the stock plastic?

I will make you this promise Walt... if I strip a 4-40 hole on my NTC3 or my RC10GT, I will replace it with a 3mm tapping screw... just for you. ;)

[xtreme]

Does anyone know if this starter box will work with the NTC3,

Starter box (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXU2&P=7)

I have tried a Dynamite box and it doesn't work with wide tires.

Thanks,
Scott

[kojak61]

This is what you need: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLZ9&P=7

[pleaseletmeon34]

In the Factory Team kit, this new “Sure-Shift” transmission

Whats different about the tranny besides the gear ratio??

[xtreme]

Originally posted by kojak61
This is what you need: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLZ9&P=7

Well the Associated box would be the best but I was wondering about the other because someone is selling one locally.

[jnegrx]

The Ofna box will work but you have to change 4 screws so the wheel so it can start your motor, i have used this starter box but the AE one is the best for the NTC3 because you can use it without moving anything.

[xtreme]

Originally posted by jnegrx
The Ofna box will work but you have to change 4 screws so the wheel so it can start your motor, i have used this starter box but the AE one is the best for the NTC3 because you can use it without moving anything.

Well it is just that the OFNA box looks just like the Dynamite one I have. I moved the motor around in the Dynamite one and the car looks like it will start but the problem is that if you have wide foams on the car they touch the box, which is not going to work properly. That is why I was curious if anyone would suggest this particular OFNA box or if it is just not going to work properly.

Thanks,
Scott

[nitrojunk]

Can I run this gearing setup?

21/26 54/48

[jnegrx]

No, the gear mesh will be bad.
You can do a 20/26 54/48.
To have a proper gear mesh the difference in teeth between the fist and second has to be the same. For example on the spurs
54-48= 6 so to have proper mesh the clutch bell has to have a differnce of 6 like 26-20=6.

[nitrojunk]

Originally posted by jnegrx
No, the gear mesh will be bad.
You can do a 20/26 54/48.
To have a proper gear mesh the difference in teeth between the fist and second has to be the same. For example on the spurs
54-48= 6 so to have proper mesh the clutch bell has to have a differnce of 6 like 26-20=6.



Thanks.. I couldnt figure out what gears I could use till you explained it that way.. thanks again..


Also no more FIX on Ebay? The auction has closed.. How else can i Buy it?

[nitrojunk]

Who makes a NICE aluminum shock for the NTC3?

Looking for plain aluminum color not blue or purple

[nitrojunk]

Anyone know what spurgear and clutch combo the NEW NTC3 is coming with?

[thunderbt3]

Anyone know what spurgear and clutch combo the NEW NTC3 is coming with?

for shocks, i guess u can use the way discussed o the "general" forums to strip the anodizing off, i think they just spray oven cleaner on the anodizing part and it strips it right off

[boostspike]

just got a used NTC3 w/ ps... no options, pretty much stock..

but i do need a motor.. not planning to race on a track.. basically settin this one up for straight-up bashing :) .

whats a decent, easy on the wallet motor... looking for sumthin very quick, and will fit w/o any modifications

gonna be bashing against cars like the N4Tec, Yoko Gt4, etc. and i basically wann keep up..


thanks all..

[Rookie Solara]

SIRIO 12 (the Black head one) $140 range
SIRIO small block 15...1.7 HP 5 port turbo (insane speed) $160 on ebay.
OS TR 12...........$120 range. OK engine to start.

[boostspike]

SIRIO 12 (the Black head one) $140 range
SIRIO small block 15...1.7 HP 5 port turbo (insane speed) $160 on ebay.
OS TR 12...........$120 range. OK engine to start.


thank for the response Rookie..

this motor right??
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKX7&P=7

backordered :(


will this fit:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFDJ2&P=7
buddy of mine wants to upgrade and is willing to let this thing go cheat..

[Rookie Solara]

thank for the response Rookie..

this motor right??
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKX7&P=7

backordered :(


will this fit:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFDJ2&P=7
buddy of mine wants to upgrade and is willing to let this thing go cheat..

I think YES, but, you want PULL START or NON PULL...? Engine like Sirio required a starter box....

Beside....SIIRIO one is WAY WAY WAY better and faster then the Team Orion one....

[Rookie Solara]

In the Factory Team kit, this new “Sure-Shift” transmission

Whats different about the tranny besides the gear ratio??

It is a different designed 2 speed CLUTCH with open access of the clutch tension design....from the side of the clutch, you can see the springs and screws on the side...

Gear Ratio..? I think FT come with the same gears jsut like the team kits...22/26 with 50/54.........but may be it will come with the 21/27 with 48/54 TEAM spec gears combo.............that is the gears I use on almost all track, but sometimes I use 20/26 for smaller track.

[boostspike]

i need a pull start motor. so the Sirio motor is outta the question... :(

[Jhstud50]

how fast the NTC3 rtr go?

[thunderbt3]

i had mine clocked in a parking lot by a cop that decided to pull in to set up a speed trap, he clocked me going around +/- 40mph WITH a STOCK SINGLE SPEED. ive upgraded some things since then and havent clocked it yet. im gonna be picking up a FT NTC3

[Jhstud50]

Thanks for telling me. I think its a little slow but i can buy a engine. Do you know what engine will make the NTC3 Go around 50 mph or a little faster? How much faster will the 2 speed trans upgrade will make the car go? Please give me some other ideas to upgrade this car bc i am a newbie to nitro cars. Thanks.

[Nitro41]

If you want a better engine, go with the sirio .12 engines, or there are many more great engines too (novarossi, mugen, os). As for the 2-speed upgrade, it is probably the best hop-up you can buy for the rtr version. It will make the stock car reach about 50+mph. If you combine that with a fast engine, speeds around 60 are possible. :D

[nitrojunk]

Anyone know were I can buy 3 racing products in the USA? all I see is like hong kong..

[Jhstud50]

Thanks, I think i will get the 2 speed trans uprade bc its is cheaper than to buy a new engine. :)

[boostspike]

Anyone know were I can buy 3 racing products in the USA? all I see is like hong kong..


i don't think there's a US dist. i've ordered from precisionrc. com before. again they're based outta Asia... transaction went smooth, shipping cost was fair.. but waited lil under 2 weeks for items.. :(

not pushing these guys, just wanna report my experience.

[boostspike]

Thanks, I think i will get the 2 speed trans uprade bc its is cheaper than to buy a new engine. :)


good choice.. cuz even if you spend the $$ on a motor, eventually you'll still need the 2speed

[Krasi_5000]

hey guys
how can i approach a cop or find a cop that i can get to clock my car? and also what should i tell him?

Right now by calculations it goes about umm 60 on paper but i wanna get it clocked.

[thunderbt3]

krasi,
when i got my car clocked, i pulled into a parking lot where cops were sitting waiting for speeders. All i did was run my car around for a bit and then one of them pulled up to me and i was worried he told me i wasnt allowed to run there cuz of noise or whatever (my old hs parking lot during the summer :p). Instead he told me that if i wanted to take it over to the other squad car, that his partner would clock it for me. I guess they were into RC too a little bit. I know theres cool cops and then theyres cops that arent too friendly, i guess u can ask them and take ur chances and hope ull get a cool cop (like the one that gave me a ticket for going 90mph in a 55 zone ;) )

[Rookie Solara]

hey guys
how can i approach a cop or find a cop that i can get to clock my car? and also what should i tell him?

Right now by calculations it goes about umm 60 on paper but i wanna get it clocked.

I know 60 mph is doable, but not with some expensive motor and a long long straight to hit that speed limit....last time I recall a "almost" 60 mph ntc3 is with a JP 5 port Turbo ($380 motor) with 21/27 - 48/54 gear.............but still, I think it was only 58 or 59 mph........

Some Serpent 950 did hit some 70 mph at our local track.....easily.

[Rookie Solara]

............I guess they were into RC too a little bit. I know theres cool cops and then theyres cops that arent too friendly, i guess u can ask them and take ur chances and hope ull get a cool cop (like the one that gave me a ticket for going 90mph in a 55 zone ;) )

I will write you a ticket if I don't see your FTNTC3 this season at our local track.....or I will tell your parent you spend $350 for 1 RC car....HEE HEE

[thunderbt3]

:p i fart in your general direction haha

[boostspike]

Anyone know were I can buy 3 racing products in the USA? all I see is like hong kong..
http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/292.html

[scottericsonon]

check it out :P page 88

my willys bodied Ntc3 graces RC Drivers fine pages

scott

[RCNitroDude999]

I dont know if anyone here has tried the solid diff in their tc3 but I recently put one in the front of mine and it works pretty damn good, especially on those tracks where lotsa braking is required and the best way to win is to not wreck, and it didnt cause the car to push going into the corners as i thought it would. 4 wheels brakes and the pull of a oneway, what more could u ask for?

[boostspike]

alright building another NTC3. (sold 1st one).. either way, i just noticed the rear spring cup is resting on the rear steering hub carrier... has this happening to anyone else??

[jnegrx]

i just got the V2 susp. Does anyone know what is the general setup for this new suspension.

[Krasi_5000]

I think i want a new engine. There is a guy in my area that is pretty dam fast with some picco he says he payed about 200 US for it. Tell me what can beat it but is still reliable but can smoke him lol i hate losing.
im beating everyone with a os .12 tr but this guy came along and all the sudden im falling behind. lol tell me some suggestions.

[Krasi_5000]

also...before i get a new engine i want to play with ratios...
Right now im with the stock ratios...do the stock ratios provide speed or torque or inbetween?
what ratios would give me the most accel?
what ratios would give me the most top speed?

[Nitro41]

Novarossi's engines are very fast too, they run in the upper $200's. I see you have the OS .12tr , but you didnt say which version, turbo or standard. If you have the standard, you can buy the turbo button head and some turbo plugs. They will make the engine a little faster. :D Hope this helps.

[Krasi_5000]

yes a little faster but i doubt enought to catch him.
how does the Sirio .12 EVO 2 sound?
and my tr is the standard. I didnt get turbo cause i hear plugs are more expensive.

[thunderbt3]

i have a local hookup for engines, ill be buying 2 OS TR's in the fall when he has his fall sale :)

[Krasi_5000]

cool! LOL something else is in my mind now.
It's either a nice italian powerhouse or i really want a Tamiya Pajero 4X4. And i've wanted offroad since i while now so i think i will get that. Anyway my ntc3 is very fast is its just i want even more speed but i guess now is not the time :)

[Rookie Solara]

cool! LOL something else is in my mind now.
It's either a nice italian powerhouse or i really want a Tamiya Pajero 4X4. And i've wanted offroad since i while now so i think i will get that. Anyway my ntc3 is very fast is its just i want even more speed but i guess now is not the time :)


Hee hee...typical, want all the things at the same time, I wish I can do that too...but anyhow, when you are ready for some power tunning on your NTC3, do this...and if that cannot beat the fast guy at your track, you know it is your driving skill.....really.

Use 21/27 with 54/48, I use that since the first day I have the NTC3, never use anything else....exactly like what you want, lowest gear on NTC3 for launching and fastest top gear for the top speed....

Use your OS TR engine for practice....that engine is good for parking lot bashing, when you stepped into the big race (track)........MONEY $$$$ is everything (which is sad, but true)....

At least, get yourself a NS12 or NS3 3 port turbo plug and start learning how to play with plugs, get 5, 6 and 7 plugs, and get TF and TC plugs on each #...so total you might need about 18 plugs (and they are like $5 each $15 per set of 3)...that is the PRICE you have to pay to be fast, but if your NS12 is set....your buddy's PICCO is not going to get you, at least, you are not going to be BEHIND.

3 port TURBO is LEGAL on ROAR book.......if your track don't care about ROAR book....try 5 port turbo (NS12 S5 or NS5).....then if $$$ is no object...get RODY Modified V12 RB engine, or JP modified NS12 ($380-$420 each)....then if ENGINE is no limit, try the new Nova Rossi NS15 S5 T1......5 port small block 15 engine....probably the fastest small block engine (non mod) in the market.....probably $250-280 each...

With those powerhouse equipment, your friend will come back with something more powerfull or EQUAL powerfull the next time you see him......

[Krasi_5000]

thanks. Today i will pick up some new gears the ones you suggested. I will put the engine on hold until i fool around with the ratios a bit.

[Nitro41]

I realize that foams are great for racing on paved tracks, but are there any good rubber shoes to hook up on the unprepared cement? Im using the stock tires right now, but they just arent sticking that well and are starting to tear. Any sugguestions would be greatly appreciated. :D

[NTC3Fan]

hahahahaha I havent been here for like 7 months now...
My NTC3 hasnt done more then a 100m since i've bought it...

So whats new?? i see the FT kit is out

Lol i see the screw thread debate is still going....

honestly i wish i could run my car but the track is so far for me... around 90km away from my home and i'm so busy....

Good to see the car has still got major support..

BTW whats with the new rear suspension???

Hi Rookie :D

[evil_malum]

Well I got into an NTC3 as seen http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165920
should arrive today, just wanted to say hi to fellow NTC3 owner and wondered if any were around these parts. "Kentucky" We have a track in my town that got timers n everything, old tennis court was converted to run road coarse or oval racing. Plan to replace the SS with a Picco .15 p1-R RE Turbo. Seems like a good replacment almost double the power and I here Picco makes a really reliable engine.

LMK what yall think. "Yes I said yall"

[scottericsonon]

I realize that foams are great for racing on paved tracks, but are there any good rubber shoes to hook up on the unprepared cement? Im using the stock tires right now, but they just arent sticking that well and are starting to tear. Any sugguestions would be greatly appreciated. :D


ive been running hpi belted pro compound slicks with med inserts

im pretty pleased with them good traction and good wear


DONT use the inserts they give u

theyre junk!

scott

[KanaiDude]

Hey evil, is the track your going to race at have organized racing and events? If you plan on racing competitively at all, I would stick to a .12 engine as the .15 engines are not legal for 1/10 scal racing, I have a sirio evo2 3-port and it screams, can't imagine the .15 would be much faster, probably not much diff in price either, just M2cents...

[PeTroL420]

I realize that foams are great for racing on paved tracks, but are there any good rubber shoes to hook up on the unprepared cement? Im using the stock tires right now, but they just arent sticking that well and are starting to tear. Any sugguestions would be greatly appreciated.

I've tried using many different types of tires and recently, I've been using Medial Pros. They're the tires that don't need an insert because they have a rubber honeycomb design inside. I think these are the best tires I've ever used. I'm using the softest compound and the tire grip is awesome. Not only that, the tire wear is great. Even on the softest compound, the tires held up excellent on a 95 degree day on hot asphalt. I just got some medium compounds but haven't tried them yet. They sell these mounted and unmounted. Get the unmounted because the premounted rims crack easily when smacking a curb. Also, if you're on a budget, you can try these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTU38&P=7 These work suprisingly well and they come 4 to a package for 8 bucks. As for wheels, I suggest the Proline wheels because although they're soft, they very hard to crack. I found that Tower Hobbies sells them in packs of 4 for 8 bucks. Here's the link http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFWJ7&P=7

[Battle Max]

Hey guys im new to the forums and picked up a ntc3 rtr about 2 weeks ago. I love the car so far and have already added a 2speed. My question is what other hop ups will give the best bang for my buck. I frequent the tracks often and basically want to stay competitive with the serpents..etc Is the front one way mod thats worth it? another person is telling me to upgrade my piping.

thanks,

Jon

[Nitro41]

Buy some foam tires and a better engine is a must if you want to run, or at least stay with the big dogs. You could also buy little stuff here and there that will improve handling and weight. I dont know much about the one-way, but there are some real good pipes for .12 engines that will help out your engine a lot. :D Hope this helps.

[KanaiDude]

Battle I would do like nitro and upgrade the engine to something with more power, OS TR, sirio. The front one way is a great hop op and one of the better ways to spend your money, do you have carbon fiber parts yet like shock towers? You can get some nice turnbuckles, a k-factory fuel tank, centax clutch the list goes on and on and on, i'll be more specific if you can...

[evil_malum]

Hey evil, is the track your going to race at have organized racing and events? If you plan on racing competitively at all, I would stick to a .12 engine as the .15 engines are not legal for 1/10 scal racing, I have a sirio evo2 3-port and it screams, can't imagine the .15 would be much faster, probably not much diff in price either, just M2cents...

Thanks for the advice, i'll drop back down to a .12 I found one that puts out 1.3HP ROAR legal.

Does anyone know where to get the Ver. 2 Suspension kit from? Besides AE and does it come in aluminum yet? Thanks

[Battle Max]

yea right now its pretty much rtr with a 2speed and titanium turnbuckles and foam tires. Im going to definetly pick up the one way and price the piping. Thanks for the responses guys keep them coming if you have any other advice.

[Krasi_5000]

If i do get all the 2nd version suspension parts will i notice anything? By the looks of it They version 2 parts look alot thiner and flimsier they have so many more holes for lighteneing them up. ALso will my car be more aadjustable?

[jnegrx]

I have the V2 suspension parts and i noticed that the rear felt more planted.
I raced this sunday and the car felt better than before. The pivot ball area is still a little weak compared to some cars but l'm satisfied with the results. I hit the barrier and the pivot ball went in to the arm so the car became a handfull in the qualifier. In the main after repairs i got first place but i was a little scared to slap the wall, so the susp IMO is far better than the V1.

[offroadcrazy01]

Any body use the mip clutch on there ntc3 just got my motor for mine can't wait.Got the mt12 with the big head I got my car used.Is there any thing I need to check before running it

[Krasi_5000]

u might just want to run over the whole car to check for loose bolts etc. Also check the drivetrain for binding and same with the suspension.

I dont know about the clutch im using the stock 2-shoe and i find is adiquite. When i wear it out i think i might look for something better or maybe a centax if i got the cash.

[jnegrx]

I like to use the 3-shoe clutch flywheel with heavy springs and it give great punch coming out of turns. You have to file or cut some of the shoe so they fit perfectly. If you still want more punch then you can drill a 2mm hole in each shoe. I have the K-factory centax in another NTC3 but if one doesn't know how to set it right the car can become a handfull. The best set up is diferent from track to track but if you have a lot of traction go with the 3-shoe heavy springs and the 2mm hole you won't be dissapointed and it's much cheaper than getting the centax. If you dont have that much traction try first the heavy springs then the 3-shoes then the drilled shoes.

[Krasi_5000]

are the 3 shoes really all that better than the 2 shoes? I read it doesnt make much of a diff?

[jnegrx]

Well to tell you the truth i changed to the 3-shoe and the heavy springs at the same time so i really don't know what made the differece but with both i rips out of the hole. The punch is awsome. I have seen guys use 2-shoe with heavy springs but i prefer the 3-shoe if you have the traction. 3-shoes have more surface area so they are suposed to "bite" harder than 2-shoes.

[Krasi_5000]

yes i knew that but i think even ae said somewere the 3 shoes dont really make a diff. whatever

I'm in the market for a new radio cause my Jaguar is starting to piss me off cause its starting to glitch a bit...what radios you guys use?

I'm thinking of a Airtronics MX-3 anyone have some feedback or anything i should know about this? and what other radios are in that price range and have about the same features?

[nitroguy2001]

I have the V2 suspension parts and i noticed that the rear felt more planted.
I raced this sunday and the car felt better than before. The pivot ball area is still a little weak compared to some cars but l'm satisfied with the results. I hit the barrier and the pivot ball went in to the arm so the car became a handfull in the qualifier. In the main after repairs i got first place but i was a little scared to slap the wall, so the susp IMO is far better than the V1.

I just finished rebuilding my car and put on the V2 suspension in await for next weekends race. Did you change your setup at all with the new rear end or leave it the same? Did you run it with the blade swaybar in the rear? I was just thinking that if it is more planted a stiffer setup could be run all around and espicially in the rear (mainly in form of swaybar stiffness) to gain a little more responsiveness from the car and inturn some speed.
thanks
Brian~

[Krasi_5000]

why is this thread so slow people? Dont we have anything to talk about?

[SWINGRRRR]

What size are the stock shocks?
I bought some GPM's off Ebay and they seem to short. They are 55mm. I have tried to adjust the ridehieght with them, but the shocks bottom out before the recommened 5mm's.

[Rookie Solara]

What size are the stock shocks?
I bought some GPM's off Ebay and they seem to short. They are 55mm. I have tried to adjust the ridehieght with them, but the shocks bottom out before the recommened 5mm's.

Buying GPM is your first mistake........then buying GPM shock is your second mistake..........

I think the NTC3 stock shocks are top notch..........just not as good as the MUGEN or Serpent 4 steps shocks....but still, good quality.

[SWINGRRRR]

But I had the RTR and could not adjust ride height. My front ends was a good 3-4 mm's higher than the back. I am about to eat my losses and just get the FT threaded shock bodies.
Also, can someone tell me where the bearings go? I bought a set of bearings, 20 pcs, but every where I look on my car, I already have bearings?
Last question, for now. Can I use wheel bearing grease for a regular car in my diff's? I live about 30 miles from my LHS and have some grease in my garage.

[offroadcrazy01]

Where can I race my car in socal. Can't seem to find any place to race :mad:

[thunderbt3]

err.......socal is the mecca of RC. there shouldnt be a problem finding a track. try rccaraction.com's track directory

[offroadcrazy01]

err.......socal is the mecca of RC. there shouldnt be a problem finding a track. try rccaraction.com's track directory
There is not much on-road racing just a few tracks that people bash at.There is alot off road racing.But not much onroad

[Battle Max]

revelation raceway has a huge onroad racing scene...they also have a offroad track but onroad owns. .....go to revrace.com...the track is located in montclair/ontario.

[offroadcrazy01]

I called them they said they race twice a month I'm going to go down there and check it out I'll let you guys know how it go's

[kojak61]

I think my car is jinked. I have not been able to complete a tank in 4 months. It started with my OS .15 hyper not wanting to idle no mater what I did,so I got a new engine which runs great. When I got the engine I did one lap and the servo saver became loose. So I tightened it, half a lap later samething. Went home and fixed that problem and a month later when I ran it, all looked good so fired up my engine drove a lap and engine cut off. So I tuned the engine, then 20 ft later left side screw on the steering rack popped out and the car is finished for the day. I am seriously thinking maybe on road is not for me. Think I should sell it?

[PeTroL420]

man, I know how you feel. It seems after I fix one problem, another occurs. I was thinking of selling my rig as well but my friend is gonna get one and I've been spending alot of money on it lately so I guess I'm stuck with this money pit. You should sell it if you realize you don't wanna spend alot of money on this frivelous hobby.

[Krasi_5000]

dont give up just yet. Sound like the only problem now is the steering. Tighten it up and check all screws if they are tight and go for a spin. Also do you have a temp gauge to tune it with or do you do it by sound, smoke and performane?

[Jayweezy]

Will these HPI bodies fit the NTC3 without any major problems?
*RX-8
*RX-7
*350Z
*RSX
Focus
Imprezza
Elise
Silvia GT
MR-S GT

[Krasi_5000]

they should all fit. The only thing to watch out for is that they are 200mm and not 180mm.
Remember look for 200 mm bodies!

[SWINGRRRR]

Do I have to ise specific diff lube, or can I use bearing grease meant for full size cars?

[tallyrc]

kojak, do i need to lend you some thread lock? i'll bring it to our meeting if you need...... also, did you grind about 3/32" off the servo saver screw so you can really crank it down without hitting the input cup?

[Krasi_5000]

hey swingrrr ,
well since the ntc3 has ball diffs you dont need to fill them with anything...you just need to coat the teeth of the gears inside with a little oil. I use vaseline and it keeps em nice and quiet, i guess using bearing grease would work, pretty much anything will if its thick.

[SWINGRRRR]

Thnx dude. I really hate the way these forums are done, but its the busiest board about the NTC3.

[Krasi_5000]

what are you talking about man, i love the way these forums are set up. You come here every day and you see the newest post in here instead of having a whole bunch of other threads and whatever.

[kojak61]

Has anyone here in the US ever oredered from www.rcmart.com?

[boostspike]

Has anyone here in the US ever oredered from www.rcmart.com?


link no worky

[SWINGRRRR]

I guess I just have to get used to it. It just hard sometimes. I see alot of, if a question is a couple of post back, it will never get answered. Plus the older threads, its time-consuming going back and reading 45+ pages.

I got my threaded shock bodies today. I put one together. Is the o-ring in the adjustment collar really necessary? I cant get either one to go in the groove.
Also there seems to be no down-travel in the shock. Feels like the piston is hitting the body. Ill get the rest on and see, I guess.

[kojak61]

www.rcmart.com

[jnegrx]

Nitroguy2001:
I started with the team foam tire set-up for the Nats and worked from there.
No i didn't run the rear blade swaybar yet but will try it soon.

SWINGRRRR:
Yes, the o-ring is there so the collar stays were you set it. If you don't use it the vibrations will move the collars and your ride height will be afected.

By body i assume that it's the shock body?
Are you testing before you mount them to your car? If so mount them and you will see that they won't hit the body. These cars have droop screws that you can adjust the down travel of the suspension. So no limiters inside the shocks are necesary. I hope i anwsered your questions.

[Sp00n]

After nearly four years out of this hobby I was driving around last Sunday morning and saw a bunch of cars parked around a track racing rc-cars. I spent the rest of the day watching the races and talking to the drivers.

This week I paid a visit to my lhs and purchased a Nitro TC3 Factory Team kit, pre-built as it were. It has an OS .12TR engine, stronger aftermarket servos, and added an Airtronics M8, having used one before I sold everything.

Please understand I used to race HPI Nitro RS4's and I also had a Serpent Impulse. This is my first Associated on road car. It's setup similar but a little different then my other former cars. The thing I was questioning was when I turn my front wheels, only the front wheels turn. When I turn my front wheels in reverse motion, all the wheels turn. When I turn the rear wheels either forward or backwards, all the wheels turn. I distinctly remember while at the race that when I rolled other NTC3's front wheels forward they seemed stiff and all the wheels turned. Now to sound like a complete amateur, what’s the quick fix for this or is this standard when the car is built?

Thanks very much for your help and any other advice you might have for someone getting back in to the on-road racing using the TC3.
I'm very impressed with how the layout is, it seems like it will be easy to work on.

[SWINGRRRR]

I just know that normal full size shocks have some amount of down travel, for pot holes and such. These seems to be resting on the lower limit. No down travel at all. They are not hitting the body. I got all four put together, and I got the bearing put in the steering rack. I think the set of bearing I bought of Ebay are a rip-off. I got a 20 pcs set and everywhere I look on the car, there are bearing already there. I guess Ill have them for spares.
Hopefully, I will have my first racing this Sunday. I have turned laps at the track, but no real racing yet, just practice with a buddy. I kill his Yokom GT4-RTR.

[Rookie Solara]

The thing I was questioning was when I turn my front wheels, only the front wheels turn. When I turn my front wheels in reverse motion, all the wheels turn. When I turn the rear wheels either forward or backwards, all the wheels turn. I distinctly remember while at the race that when I rolled other NTC3's front wheels forward they seemed stiff and all the wheels turned. Now to sound like a complete amateur, what’s the quick fix for this or is this standard when the car is built?

Thanks very much for your help and any other advice you might have for someone getting back in to the on-road racing using the TC3.
I'm very impressed with how the layout is, it seems like it will be easy to work on.

I was having trouble understand you untill later on, I realized you mean "SPIN" the wheel instead of turn the wheel....I didn't realized that NTC3 is 4 wheel steering...? LOL

Oh, nothing wrong with your car.....FT NTC3 equipped with FRONT 1-way diff instead of the front ball diff (a $50 options)...that means, when you spin the front wheels, only the wheels are spinning, when you spin the rear wheels forward, all 4 wheels should spin...(just like what you described)...the other NTC3 that you spin probably is using the stock front ball diff cause his NTC3 is most likley a stock NTC3 instead of the FT NTC3........

The function of using front 1-way is for high speed cornering, PROS and CONS....using front 1-way only if your track does not have a lot of tight turn low-speed corner like those high end permenant race track with 200 feet plus striaghtaway and sweeper corner...using front 1-way will give you faster lap time.

However, if you are running those parking lot club race with 2x4 wood stud layout (constructed with a lot of those 90 degree or 180 degree hair pin turns).........then replace your front 1-way with the stock ball diff (exactly the same as your rear diff) and follow the manual FOAM setup......

Thats it....you will enjoy the car, FT NTC3 is by far the best TC for the LOWEST cost that included almost all the good and necessary options.

[Rookie Solara]

I just know that normal full size shocks have some amount of down travel, for pot holes and such. These seems to be resting on the lower limit. No down travel at all. They are not hitting the body. I got all four put together, and I got the bearing put in the steering rack. I think the set of bearing I bought of Ebay are a rip-off. I got a 20 pcs set and everywhere I look on the car, there are bearing already there. I guess Ill have them for spares.
Hopefully, I will have my first racing this Sunday. I have turned laps at the track, but no real racing yet, just practice with a buddy. I kill his Yokom GT4-RTR.

I believed RTR NTC3 are already equipped with bearing except the steering and the brake rack bearing option.............I got the EBAY bearing as well, not a rip-off, but you can use it for spare....eventually (probably like 4-5 races later) you will have to replace all the bearings.

About the shock travel, that is all controlled by the spring pre-low, the down stops and the up stops....follow the team/FT NTC3 manual foam setting direction.

[Radio210]

Is there any possible way to fit/install a limited slip Diff (like in HPI's Evo) or a bevel-gear type Diff into the NTC3? If so, where are some links on the swap?. I don't like ball diffs b/c of their continious need for adjusting and the one-ways are not my favorite because they freespin when deccelerating (or at least I think), and that leaves only the rear tires for breaking. That's not good because the wieght will trasfer to the front wheels leaving less road-holdability for the two rear (and only means of braking force) tires.

[jnegrx]

I don't think there's a way. Some friends of mine tried to see if the bevel-gear diff of the OFNA LD-3 would fit but it didn't. You can try a spool (solid front end) and you will get the pull of a oneway but still have 4 wheel braking.

[Canucksk]

I just got the V2 suspension.

Does anyone have any knowledge and suggestions on the setup for this new supspension ?

Thank's

[nitroguy2001]

I just got the V2 suspension.

Does anyone have any knowledge and suggestions on the setup for this new supspension ?

Thank's


At my track with the old suspension i had a little oversteer(lose) but know i have a little understeer(push). I am going to take a degree of rear toe out, down to 2 degrees. and maybe a rear swaybar. my front blade is already flat.


Sp00n: a one-way is used on big tracks with a lot of traction and open turns. there is a ton of traction to turn in with a one-way which eliminates the need for hard braking. the front tires free wheel going through the turn which allows them to turn at the optimum level for the most amount of traction. on tight tracks this will hurt you because you need to break hard to get the wieght transfer for the tight turn, and if there isnt enough traction the back end will slide out under braking, or the car will feel loose because the one-way gives so much steering. So use a ball diff on the tight tracks

[rpmmaxxed]

I do not know if I made a good choice, I would like to think so. I recently traded my big block tmaxx with some major $$ in it. :( for a TB NTC3.

TC3 has lightened 2speed. Sirio 5port.12 Sirio header and pipe. AE hard anodized chassis. THreaded body shocks. some other stuff i dont remember. JR racing servos. Duratraxx starter box with 12volt gell cell. and some other stuff I dont remember.

I am unsure of the gearing, but im hoping in the high 50mph range. When I am done with it, over 65mph wont be far. future holds sirio .15 7port. Which will be from the same guy im getting my tc3 from.

Basically, What do you guys think? I will be racing weekly, on sundays, which will be causing me to miss church. But hey, i have not missed church in over a year, and its not like I will be away from god.

I will get the car by wed. Drive it a couple tanks. Tune it up. and install whatever I have readily available that will improve performance. I am also considering cutting out the chassis to reduce weight.

Any thoughts?

[kojak61]

The Nitro TC3 will works great as is no need for hop ups. Sirio is a strong engine and as far as gearing all you is a 6 tooth split. As for weight most guys I know add more then take away weight.

[oldschoolchevy]

I just got back into r/c racing. Last season my NTC3 stripped a lot of transmission casses. All of you were talking of the fix? What is that? Do i need to buy a kit that gives me new screws or am i going to have to buy lots of aluminum part to keep the car from stripping? I despratly need a reply in ENGLISH, because my car breakes way to much on the tough track i race on and im going broke buying new plastic pieces all the time. PLEASE HELP.

[speedydave]

I'm considering picking up a nitro tourer for summer, and I'm a huge AE fan, so I'm looking hard at the NTC3. I love Mugen, too (I run an MBX5, used to run an MBX4, and used to run an MST1), so I'm also looking at the MTX3 (probably ProSpec). I've been into RC for 6 1/2 years, and racing for about half that time, so I'm definitely not a newbie to racing or to the hobby in general (or to nitro..been running nitro for 2+ years). I usually finish right around the top third in expert 1/8 and 1/10 gas at my local track, so I'm not a horrible driver, but I have never actually raced onroad before (but I have driven several onroad cars).

I'm looking more at the NTC3 because of local parts availability. However, I have a few questions. I know the updated version of the RTR as well as the FTNTC3 kit have the V2 suspension, but when will AE make the V2 rear suspension a running change for the standard kit? Also, what out of the FT kit is really necessary? I don't want to spend a ton on my car, just get what's needed/helpful to have. Would it make more sense to get the FT kit, or just get the standard kit and upgrade from there? The main thing that is turning me away from the FT kit (and from the NTC3 in general, if the rumors are true) is my concern for durability. Since the FT kit has full graphite, it'll be more brittle than the standard composite, and since this is my first venture into racing onroad, I don't think that's a very good thing. This is a big reason why I'm also looking into the MTX3. I know this is the NTC3 thread, so you're all a *little* biased (haha), but what do you guys think I should do?

[R3VoLuTiOn]

hey guys, im also new to nitros and have been interested in getting a nitro on road for a while. im pretty much along the same lines as speedy dave, i plan to race but wanna keep costs down and at the same time have fun bashing. ive been looking at the kits or the new rtr plus version, does it have the new updated rear suspension? and can you guys please give me the #'s for the updates if i get an older kit or a used ntc3? thanks guys, sorry im a bit lazy to search this thread for the information.

[jnegrx]

Yes the RTR plus does have the V2 suspension. If you want to keep cost down then the NTC3 is for you. The Mugen is a great car but it's difficoult to find parts(at least here).

[nitroguy2001]

hey if any of you guys are interested i have a team ntc3 with v2 suspension 2 rdlogic pipes some mods and a TON of extra parts.
let me know if your interested

[Jayweezy]

Anyone know how to adjust the wheelbase on the NTC3? I know I could do it on the TC3 but I am unsure about the NTC3.

I am now the proud owner of a RTR NTC3+.

[tallyrc]

not possible

[boostspike]

i'm looking for a Rx flat pack... what do you guy recommend..???

[KronicRacer]

http://www.onlybatterypacks.com they have great packs make sure to stick to nimh

[KronicRacer]

I'm considering picking up a nitro tourer for summer, and I'm a huge AE fan, so I'm looking hard at the NTC3. I love Mugen, too (I run an MBX5, used to run an MBX4, and used to run an MST1), so I'm also looking at the MTX3 (probably ProSpec). I've been into RC for 6 1/2 years, and racing for about half that time, so I'm definitely not a newbie to racing or to the hobby in general (or to nitro..been running nitro for 2+ years). I usually finish right around the top third in expert 1/8 and 1/10 gas at my local track, so I'm not a horrible driver, but I have never actually raced onroad before (but I have driven several onroad cars).

I'm looking more at the NTC3 because of local parts availability. However, I have a few questions. I know the updated version of the RTR as well as the FTNTC3 kit have the V2 suspension, but when will AE make the V2 rear suspension a running change for the standard kit? Also, what out of the FT kit is really necessary? I don't want to spend a ton on my car, just get what's needed/helpful to have. Would it make more sense to get the FT kit, or just get the standard kit and upgrade from there? The main thing that is turning me away from the FT kit (and from the NTC3 in general, if the rumors are true) is my concern for durability. Since the FT kit has full graphite, it'll be more brittle than the standard composite, and since this is my first venture into racing onroad, I don't think that's a very good thing. This is a big reason why I'm also looking into the MTX3. I know this is the NTC3 thread, so you're all a *little* biased (haha), but what do you guys think I should do?

get the standard kit if the graphite parts make you nervous. you can always get the ft parts later on for the rear suspension seperatly. you cant go wrong with the standard kit.

[Temjin006]

Have anyone here tried the K-factory nylon knuckles?

I am trying to increase my steering on my ntc3, is there anyways to do that. Would setting the rear suspension harder than the front or stiffening the rear sway bar help?

[KronicRacer]

I just got back into r/c racing. Last season my NTC3 stripped a lot of transmission casses. All of you were talking of the fix? What is that? Do i need to buy a kit that gives me new screws or am i going to have to buy lots of aluminum part to keep the car from stripping? I despratly need a reply in ENGLISH, because my car breakes way to much on the tough track i race on and im going broke buying new plastic pieces all the time. PLEASE HELP.

the fix is sold on ebay. generally what it does is keep the shock towers from twisting. which is a weak point in this car generally its the only hop up you need in the car. you can either dish out the money for the 20 bux fix. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44017&item=3191867872
at the moment it seems that jim(fix creator) isnt selling but check back later. he should have some more later on or email the seller to see if he has any.

~or~

you can go the kfactory route and dish out 80 bux for their shock towers. which look really good but will not fit in the rear for v2 suspensions. personally i say get the fix its cheaper and gets the job done.

[rodf911]

the fix is sold on ebay. generally what it does is keep the shock towers from twisting. which is a weak point in this car generally its the only hop up you need in the car. you can either dish out the money for the 20 bux fix. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44017&item=3191867872
at the moment it seems that jim(fix creator) isnt selling but check back later. he should have some more later on or email the seller to see if he has any.

~or~

you can go the kfactory route and dish out 80 bux for their shock towers. which look really good but will not fit in the rear for v2 suspensions. personally i say get the fix its cheaper and gets the job done.


Does the FIX work with v2 suspension?

Thanks!

[jnegrx]

The V2 suspension is only in the rear the front is the same one. You can use the fix in the front end.

[boostspike]

whats the advantage of a V2 rear susp??

[chevy_94]

Is the factory team kit any good? does it have good instructions? and what would be the best electronics to go with?

[Krasi_5000]

i feel so helpless...all the q's being asked i dont have lol. I guess someone else will have you help you.

Well i can help a bit...from what i hear the v2 suspension will not use the pivot balls in the back so if you get hit or hit the curb they wont pop off like they do now (mine have never poped of so i have no need) and also i hear it will handle better AND you can use roll bars or blade's in the rear. I dont know if i covered it all but those are the main points.

[KronicRacer]

i think you meant turn buckles. it still uses the pivot balls(lower part of the suspension). due to the shock tower configuration you cannot use the fix for the rear so this all leads to square one with the shock tower being prone to being twisted off on a hard hit
.
the best option for the rear on the ft looks to be an alloy diffcase. or unless jreeves and co. come out with the fix v2.

youre better off getting the standard kit and then getting the v2 suspension if you want to later. heres a link for the instructions on the v2 rear suspension unit.

http://download.teamassociated.com/pdf/2319_upgrade.pdf

[Krasi_5000]

ok i guess i will do theother one as well lol.
YES, ofcourse the factory team kit is good. Its the same as all theother kits/rtr's aside from engine and electronics and a few extra blue stuff. As long as its AE it IS GOOD!
Im pretty sure the instructions for all ntc3 kits/rtr's are the same so i will go ahead and say that they are good. I have the rtr and mine are very detailed and have good diagrams...this is what i call good compared to my friends duratrax street force manual which has NOTHING to do with the car...it only talks about the electrincis and even then you cant understand...HPI manuals are so so not the greatest but they are good enough to build the car. SO yes the manual/instructions are excellent
hmmm i dont know this cause im using the stock rtr radio from jaguar but it does the trick. I guess pretty much any namebrand system like Futuba or Airtronics will be good but if you want something even better you can get a 3-channel FM which are a lil more expensive but if you get a MT later on you can have a revererse on it, and someo of the 3 channel ones or most of them come with a LCD and you can do some neat stuff from there. Since i was thining of getting one but never did here is what I myself found the best and alot of people confirmed it HERE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCHA7**&P=0)
Hope i helped

[KronicRacer]

and the entire v2 suspension package will retail at about 35.00 when bought sperately :eek:

[Krasi_5000]

thank you kronicracer I did mean turn buckle but i kinda messed it up lol

[KronicRacer]

bahhh jr xs3 is the way to go imo. its crystalless. ;) it has six memory modes and has 3 channels, FM 75mhz channels 61-90

[cianhanrahan]

Hi all , great forum you have here!!
Just wondering if the Rally conversion kitt also works for the Nitro TC3?

Thanks
Cian

[Krasi_5000]

No, the ntc3 is different from the tc3 therefore it will not work. There was a guy named Quinton on here that made his ntc3 into rally by simply moving shock positions, droop seting and he bought rally tires. It was pretty simple...i will try to find the thread for you.

[ALJR]

anyone know what size bearings to use with the yokomo oneway? the stock size bearings don't fit, there ID is slightly too small...

[Jayweezy]

Anyone tried to decrease the wheelbase on the NTC3? I was thinkig that it could be done by shaving off some of the suspension arm material.

[Race123]

hey does anybody know if ae is going to sell the new rearend in a package or does it have to be bought in seperate peices?

Not sure if anyone has responded to this already but here it is anyways:

#2319, NTC3 Ver 2. Suspension Upgrade Kit (for #2030, 2031, 2040 with
earlier suspension.), $35.00

New Rear End (http://www.teamassociated.com/newprod/2004/2319_ver2upgrade.600.jpg)

[da_ticklah]

I've seen time and time again in the forums that a 6 tooth split on the 2-speed is all that's needed however in the instructions for my kit it shows a 4 tooth split. is the 6 tooth split only for FT models can I run it on mine safely or do I need some othere engine blocks or something

below are the gear options reccomended in my kit's manual

20/24 with 52/48
21/25 wtih 52/48
22/26 with 52/48
23/27 with 52/48
20/26 with 54/48
21/27 with 54/48
20/24 with 54/50
21/25 with 54/50
22/26 with 54/50 (in kit)
23/27 with 54/50

[jnegrx]

yes you can run the 6 tooth split in your car.

[SWINGRRRR]

I know its been asked before, but can someone run down the adjustments in order. I.E. droop, ride height, and camber. I know this is only a couple, but if some one could tell me all of them, and in the order they are set.

[SWINGRRRR]

This is driving me crazy. I got my new threaded shock bodies on. They are screwed all the way up to the collar and the ride height is still to tall. I cant lower the car any more. Any ideas? I changed the lower shock eye with a short one from another set. Now the part that holds the bottom of the spring on is hitting on the suspension. What can I do?
These are FT threaded bodies with red/ gold springs.

[tallyrc]

what color are your shock bodies? curious because all of the kits except the rtr come with the same shocks....

[aamopar]

Just wanted to know if anyone out there has turned a ntc3 into a late modle dirt oval,if yes could you post some pic.I did this to mine and it's the fastest thing i've seen on a dirt oval.

[SWINGRRRR]

the shock bodies are blue. They are on a RTR car. All I changed was the bodies and lower shock eye. The ones Im using have metal centers, the stock ones were plastic. The lower eyes are the same exact size though. I measure them with a dial caliper

[R3VoLuTiOn]

hey guys, heres the scoop. ive ordered a ntc3 rtr plus for a friend of mine, its on its way from towerhobbies. 299 aint bad hehe. anyway, so far the only upgrade coming with it is the rpm front bumper, and we were hoping on getting some advice.

1st and foremost, please post any tips/tricks to setting up the car, breaking it in, and running it. these would be greatly appreciated as we have never run nitro. also does the rtr plus come with a throttle return spring?

2nd, what are some really effective/needed upgrades for the car? things to get the car to handle and respond well while being easy to drive. can some of you guys post pics of ur ntc3's so we can have some ideas to work on to "pimp" our ntc3 :cool:

Lastly, I myself am planning on a ntc3 as well, the plus seems very good to start off but i am planning to be racing in the future, and as ive learned with my electric tc3, i would eventually upgrade to a factory team. so, im looking at the factory team, what components(radio, engine, tires) do you guys recommend and what and where is the cheapest ntc3 factory team found?

thanks.

[boatman]

hey guys, heres the scoop. ive ordered a ntc3 rtr plus for a friend of mine, its on its way from towerhobbies. 299 aint bad hehe. anyway, so far the only upgrade coming with it is the rpm front bumper, and we were hoping on getting some advice.

1st and foremost, please post any tips/tricks to setting up the car, breaking it in, and running it. these would be greatly appreciated as we have never run nitro. also does the rtr plus come with a throttle return spring?

2nd, what are some really effective/needed upgrades for the car? things to get the car to handle and respond well while being easy to drive. can some of you guys post pics of ur ntc3's so we can have some ideas to work on to "pimp" our ntc3 :cool:

Lastly, I myself am planning on a ntc3 as well, the plus seems very good to start off but i am planning to be racing in the future, and as ive learned with my electric tc3, i would eventually upgrade to a factory team. so, im looking at the factory team, what components(radio, engine, tires) do you guys recommend and what and where is the cheapest ntc3 factory team found?

thanks.


The book set up is a good place to start.You need to run foam tires cause the rubber ones will not work for racing.Is your car a single speed or 2 speed?you do need the 2 speed helps alot will the gearing in the corners and the straights.

I dont know about the rtr car if it has a throttle spring or not.

As far as upgrades the sky is the limit.There is nothing stock left on my car but the a arms,shock towers,shocks and diffs.I have changed the chassie to a hardcore pro version,hardcore upperdeck,new drive shaft,new MIP shinny cvds(steel ones the al. ones wont hold up)RPM ball cups,Titanium turn buckles which come with the factory team,different bearings.ect.ect.ect

As far as radios the MX3 airtronics is hard to beat for the price.as far as motors I run a OS TR .12 because it works good for me at the track I race at

Tires are somthing you will have to trial and error.There are alot of different tires out there to pic from. Jacos,Twisters,Ellegi,Arrow,Fast tires,ect.ect.ect

I hope this will help you out If I can help you just PM me and I will try my best

Ray

[boostspike]

i think the Plus is a 2speed... i also recommend a nice set of hex drivers... the given L shaped drivers are junk..

[KronicRacer]

^^^^so true the standard hex drivers are good for the first 5 screws after that you hands get sore and they strip.

anyway heres the latest on mine

[Krasi_5000]

nice ride! Can you post some side pics and just some other angles, also what chassi is that looks carbon fiber?

[Krasi_5000]

also were or what hex drivers should i get that are better than stock, cause im starting to get pissed at the L ones that came with it.

[boostspike]

also were or what hex drivers should i get that are better than stock, cause im starting to get pissed at the L ones that came with it.


i've had great success w/ the AE hex drivers.... about $40 at most online shops,,, i've also used the Losi drivers before.... very cool, comes w/ a case. but they cost more..

[Krasi_5000]

thanks, i will look into it.

[nitrojunk]

how much should I be asking to sell this for?

comes with :
NTC3 with 2 Speed (RTR)
Titanium Turnbuckles
Novarrosi NS12 S5 Turbo .. only 7 tanks
RD Logic Onepiece Pipe
NEW In Box MIP Tweak Station
NEW In BOX AE ALuminum Shocks
AE Starter BOX
NEW IN BOX NON PULL start Flywheel
MAnual


http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44340&stc=1

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44341&stc=1

[DrDiff]

I am about to purchase a NTC3 RTR +, Discovered it when going to the LHS to look for something for Father's day. I have a 5 cell pack of 2/3 A cells that I can use to make a receiver pack. What configuration should I make it? 2 cells on top and 3 cells on bottom?

Thanks in advance

[boostspike]

as far as i know the car would accept both flat and hump style RX packs... i would go for a 5 cell flat.. seems easier to assemble :D

[boostspike]

currently running a .15 CV-RX.. this is my first pull start motor. (sold starter box :( )... either way, once in a while when i pull on the cord.. it feels "loose" feels like no compression... after a few more pulls it usually does start up.. everything seems tight, new motor, runs fine.. but whats up w/ the cord feeling "loose"???

[KronicRacer]

thats due to the fact that on those certian pulls there is no fuel present to create the compression needed to fire the motor. theres usually a compression ring *groove* on the piston the needs to be filled with fuel. this has lead many people to believe that their motor have no compression when they use compression testers.

when in doubt remove the glowplug and put a 4-5 few drops of fuel in. reinstall the plug and YANK. there should be compression after that. if not retighten everything cooling head exhaust manifold the crank plates.

[Nitro41]

The one-way bearing might be dirty or just worn out too. But you said it was new, so like KronicRacer said, it might be that theres no fuel in the chamber yet.

[Krasi_5000]

I didnt know about that groove was for that reason...i thought it was for lubrication purposes.

[boostspike]

cool, thanks guys...

[KronicRacer]

my current chassis....

[KronicRacer]

......

[KronicRacer]

.....

[KronicRacer]

....

[KronicRacer]

last one.....

[DrDiff]

KronicRacer: Geez! Is there anything left on that car that came from Associated? It reminds me of my original gold tubbed six gear RC10! By the time I was done nothing was Associated except for the Stealth Transmission!

Good looking car though!

[KronicRacer]

the shocks and the 2 speed ;)

[Krasi_5000]

very nice KronicRacer, were did you buy that chassi or did you custom make it?
It would of been better if you got the Carbon fiber radio plate would all match! Very nice!

[KronicRacer]

dont give me more ideas ;) im using the hardcore radio deck since i was using with the hardcore chassis*swisscheese express*. i got the cf chassis on ebay a few months back. look up holeshoteng he may still have some left.

[Krasi_5000]

I seem to have found a company that sells carbon fiber sheets and other stuff in different thicknesses and sizes...would it be all that hard to make my own chassi? All i "think" i would need is a dremel and a sander to make it smooth on the edges? here is the company incase you were wondering HERE (http://dragonplate.com/) you could also make the radio plate except you'd need to find those alluminum standoffs or find something similar.

[Krasi_5000]

also Kronic...how much did you pay for your chassi? I think i wanna buy one!

[SWINGRRRR]

Two questions: Whats that blue thing hanging off the right side?
Can someone please top out thier shock and measure it for me eye-let to eye-let for me? I think mine are too short at 60mm.

[boostspike]

also Kronic...how much did you pay for your chassi? I think i wanna buy one!


here's link to the manu. who makes the chassis.. they're also on Ebay..

http://www.holeshoteng.com/Manufacturer%20Index/associated_products.htm


blue thing is a counterfeit transponder

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSG51&P=7

[boostspike]

Kronic: how do you keep the bottom of that chassis scratch free.... :D

[SWINGRRRR]

THNX, I found the blue thing later looking at stuff on Ebay.

[Rookie Solara]

Do not just make the chassis in carbon fiber only..........Kronic's chassis is NOT completely carbon fiber....there is a ALUM piece mounted underneath the engine area so the HEAT can transfer to the alum piece...

If you simply use carbon fiber for the entire chassis........expect the engine will overheat somehow...

[Krasi_5000]

thanks for the info! I expected it to be more expensive...how much weight would you save from a carbon fiber chassi and the upper deck?

woops i guess i didnt read...saves 3oz over stock for all you people like me who dont read it all! :p

[KronicRacer]

Kronic: how do you keep the bottom of that chassis scratch free.... :D


im keeping it scratch free by not running it. havent had a chance to at the moment. :(

[KronicRacer]

Do not just make the chassis in carbon fiber only..........Kronic's chassis is NOT completely carbon fiber....there is a ALUM piece mounted underneath the engine area so the HEAT can transfer to the alum piece...

If you simply use carbon fiber for the entire chassis........expect the engine will overheat somehow...


id like to add: the aluminum plate also provides a rienforcement to the motor area of the carbon chassis.

[Nitro41]

What kinda specs will a Mugen MT12 turbo (i think its a 3-port, not sure) put out? It's either that or a OS .12tr-turbo. The OS is cheaper, but I have heard good things about the standard MT12. Can u guys help me out? :D

[Krasi_5000]

well i have the os tr non-turbo and its super. Has power, super easy to tune, very good bottom end lacks some on top. Over a gallon on mine and its like new and its OS quality! thats my side on the os...someone will have to tell you about the MT 12.
Actually if im not mistaking...there was a thread on this a while back and someone posted dyno results and the os kicked mt but. I will post the graphs if i can find them on my comp.

[Nitro41]

Thanks! :D

[SWINGRRRR]

Anyone know where to get the V2 rear in a kit form?

[Krasi_5000]

im having probels attaching but im looking at them now and the OS kicks but. The mt has lower specs.

[Nitro41]

Krasi, could you tell me what to search under so I could check out the thread on the engine specs? Thanks alot. :D

[Krasi_5000]

see thats the problem...tell me your email and i will email em to you. Or i can just tell you the numbers

[Krasi_5000]

ok here are the numbers.

MT 12
1.1 HP at 28 200 RPM
39 oz at 26 700 RPM


OS TR TURBO
1.3 HP at 31 000 RPM
52.7 oz at 21 000 RPM

OS TR
.96 HP at 25 650 RPM
40.7 oz at 20 500 RPM


and the max RPM for all of them is about 38000 RPM.
Seems to me the tr and mt 12 are a close race and if you jump up to a turbo you jump an extra 13 oz and .2 hp. OS did an excellent job on the TR and all theother engines they make, they also last a while, easy to tune and just awsome!

[Nitro41]

I cant thank you guys enough. lol :D I am definately going with OS .12tr-turbo. Thanks again.

[Krasi_5000]

no problem! Enjoy your new engine! Also let us know how it is.

PS: there is a great site were you can read reviews on cars, engines, radios and exhausts HERE (http://www.nitroreview.com/) i find it quite helpful.

[Krasi_5000]

hey all,
well i was surprised at what happened this weekend! I found some new bashing buddies and we went...bashing lol so we were driving he had a Trinity Relex or something Trinity with belts, he was running a Omega XT-12 with blue thunder 20% i was running my NTC3 with os .12 tr 20% sidewinder and the results werre surpeising...
The drag race i wasted him and i was running 230 from the start i was 2 cars ahead and toward the end the gap had went to about 5 cars...i admit it was a close race but i won! Then we did a pushing contest (bumper to bumper) and gunned them and i pushed his car way out i stopped he started pushing back i gunned it again and again pushed him way back. And throughout this whole time i was 230's and he pulled over touched his engine and shut it off INSTANTLY...you never seen anyone shut it off so fast lol and i asked wuts up he said its running a LITTLE WARMER than usual and i was like wahtever lol you roasted your engine...
Now what i want to know is...is the omega xt-12 a good engine cause he was braggin about it like crazy and then lost in everything and was running it lean as hell so im thining its junk lol anyone have any thing to say?

just a lil more...and when we were leaving i said "i thought you were gonna smoke me" and he said "it wasnt leaned out" *** he was running it hot and had to shut her down and he says he will lean it more lol sounds to me like he is killing it...and also i asked so howcome you dont lean it now and beat me then, his reply was that "today the weather is a little warm" and i was like buddy what does that have to do with it your supposed to run around 230's regardless of the warmness (excluding winter that is) and he was like ahh whatever and walked away.

we will race in about 2 weeks time again, do you think he can do anything to beat me? lol i think he will blow something up hehe

[R3VoLuTiOn]

hey, im breaking in an ntc3 with my friend. its the rtr plus, how do i get the rpm front bumper on? ive been trying to get it on but its not happening.. :S

[Krasi_5000]

what exacly is the problem that you cant get it on? I dont have one but i would think you take off the original and stick on the new one...is it really that hard?

[SWINGRRRR]

Is there anything you have to change in your set-up when using foams? I thought I remember people talking about something in the back of the manual, but I cant find anything in my RTR book.
Also wheres the best place to get RPM ballcup's?

[Krasi_5000]

From what i read you have to lower your ride and stiffen up the suspension. Its all HERE (http://www.nitrorc.com/) just scroll down and look on the right hand side...when you see a article called "foam tires" click it you can read up on some stuff there and if you go down there is a secton called "Chassis Setup for Foam Tires:" read that and it shall answer your question.

I dont know were to get the ballcups.

[Krasi_5000]

From what i read you have to lower your ride and stiffen up the suspension. Its all HERE (http://www.nitrorc.com/) just scroll down and look on the right hand side...when you see a article called "foam tires" click it you can read up on some stuff there and if you go down there is a secton called "Chassis Setup for Foam Tires:" read that and it shall answer your question.

I dont know were to get the ballcups.

[boostspike]

hey, im breaking in an ntc3 with my friend. its the rtr plus, how do i get the rpm front bumper on? ive been trying to get it on but its not happening.. :S


i have the RPM bumper... basically, its just a replacement pcs... remove 1 screw on top, 2 screws from under bumper and 1 screw on the chassis... its just that simple :D

ohh yeah, make sure its the bumper for the nitro and not elec. TC3

[SWINGRRRR]

hey, im breaking in an ntc3 with my friend. its the rtr plus, how do i get the rpm front bumper on? ive been trying to get it on but its not happening.. :S

From RPM's site.
"RTR Owners - Please read: The stock front bumper on the RTR is different than the standard kit version NTC3 front bumper. In order to use the RPM NTC3 front bumper, you will need to convert to the standard kit version NTC3 bumper set-up. You will need one Assoc. part #2226 - front bumper / arm mount and the three rubber pads found in Assoc. part #2232."

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/assoc/chassis.htm
Look about half way down.

[boostspike]

/\ /\ /\

ahhh, good find.. i didn't know the RTR was a bit different...

[piecemealBHC]

here's a dumb question... If I wanted to get the pullstart team kit just to start out with, i can still put in a rear exhaust non pull engine down the road can't I? What mods are needed if any, to pull that off?

[jnegrx]

You can use it. The only difference is that the engine mounts are a bit higher so the pull start clears the chassis and the flywheel is bigger so you can still use a starter box.
If you want to lower the engine all you need is the non pull start engine mounts and flywheel in addition to the exhaust system

[boostspike]

what the purpose of the "tank insert" (round clear tube-like object) in the our fuel tank...??? i had to buy a new tank.. and i came w/ one... one also came w/ the kit, but in never installed it.... what's the use of it??

[Temjin006]

The stock fuel tank is 78cc. The insert is to fill in the extra 3cc to make the tank race legal (75cc)

[astainback]

I don't want to open up a can of worms here... but I am thinking about getting a NTC3 real soon to race with. I don't really have alot of money to invest in getting the kit, an engine, and radio equipment.

I want to get the rtr for now to start racing, and I know that there are 2 kinds... the original and the plus model.

Here are my questions...

I know that the plus is a better car (2 speed and new sus. in back) but I don't know about the engine. Do i need to have a .12 to race?? Or can I run it with the .15 from the plus kit??

Are there any major differences in the kit models and the rtr models(original or plua)??

I know that the factory team kit has tons of hopups, but I like hopping the car myself, and I don't need everything to be graphite and aluminum. does the rtr version have threaded aluminum shocks??

I appreciate any help and assistance.

thanks
adrian

[Krasi_5000]

Im pretty sure you can race with the .15 because atleast tracks here make the exception that if your car came with a .15 you can race but the next engine you buy or swap whatever has to be .12 it must have come with the car.

There arent any major differences aside from the few extra alluminum hop ups and just the rear end and front end(i think) are different between the + and original.

The rtr does not come with threaded alluminum shocks so you will have to buy those yourself.

You can buy the rtr and it already is a pretty race ready car, doesnt need much except for a 2-speed for the origninal, maybe some tires and a new engine EVENTUALLY but even bone stock its a fast and fun race ready car.

Hope i helped!

[R3VoLuTiOn]

the original rtr is already becoming discontinued, it would be better off to have bought the rtr plus a month or so ago... i got my friend one for 299 usd on towerhobbies, now its at 349.99.

[astainback]

thanks for the input. I am going to go with the rtr plus.

now, i need money..

anyone want to donate??

hahahah kidding.... a little....

haha

[SWINGRRRR]

Anyone know the P/N for the block off plate on a .12? I am taking the pullstart off.

[boostspike]

just wacked the NTC3.. need a new lower chassis :( .. how's the golden horizon pcs?? it comes w/ engine mounts.. are the mounts for a p/s motor or non-p/s motor. can't seem to find any more info on this chassis.

thanks

[SWINGRRRR]

Anyone know the P/N for the block off plate on a .12? I am taking the pullstart off.
Nevermind. It was in the manual, of all places!!