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GTX -> Fantoms pipes are heavy but good pipes. If you install one of them, engine's temp will drop a little bit. For the huge engine's head it's more for the bling factor than anyhing else. This will overcool your engine and you'll set the engine too lean to get normal operating temps. Also, the first time you'll flip your MGT on his lid, you'll scratch and bent your head.
Cotharyus
07-08-2005, 08:06 AM
The only things to really watch on the stock MGT ismake sure your slipper is tight, and keep a close eye on your rear diff. You may even want to check out chevy's web site and perform his diff shim mod.
metalry101
07-08-2005, 12:21 PM
The only things I ever had a problem with in stock form were shocks and CVD couplings. The shocks are remarkably similiar to T-Maxx shocks, in that if you jump the truck very high with them, you blow the caps right off! Also, the pins through the CVD couplings like to fall out, a lot. The ones in the center and the ones at the wheels do it all the damn time. Shrink wrapping the joint is the only way I know of to stop them from doing it, because threadlock sure as hell doesn't seem to help.
traxxas_fan101
07-08-2005, 12:36 PM
ya i read about that pinion gear mod, i think im gonna do that once i can find the proper washers
im about half way through breaking it in, i had to stop last night cuz the neighbors told me to knock it off so now im gonna wait till about 10 to finish breaking it in
Slaf - the reason I would want a big head like that is because of flame outs. It gets to 100+ temperatures here and it's hard to keep the engine under 250* and get performance. That's why I was going to monitor the stock head and then subtract 50* from that to get the right reading for the bigger head.
Yeah, I saw the diff shimming, I did the same thing on my Dominator. Easy enough. As for the pins, I'll pick up some heat shrink.
Any problems with the motor mount breaking?
monstatruCkin
07-08-2005, 01:09 PM
my motor mount has held up fyn afta much flippin onto its lid with the engine hittin the ground all the time. all that happened was the head fin bent and thats it. as for the head, go with the golden horizons head just enough cooling and it makes the stok motor look gooood. also i would advise you to SEAL your motor a.s.a.p. ive never ran or seen one tt21 that didnt have an airleak.
Monsterbrad
07-08-2005, 05:46 PM
I have smashed up three motor mounts and they are a pain to change out cause of the screws that go through the engine to the mount.
I did notice that I bent the chassis under the mount so I am assuming thats where my problems keeps comming from my gear mesh being hard to get right.
Also I keep losing the pins outa the center drive cups off the tranny but I have many spares.
The drive shafts to the wheels I have had no problems with so far.
Blue Loctite works great but it needs a few hours to set up all the way.
I give it over night and have had very few problems over the years!
Cotharyus
07-08-2005, 09:10 PM
I've bent the heads up on two engines, and the stock motor mount is still fine.
As for the pins in the CVD's and such, just lock tight them good tight.
Monsterbrad
07-09-2005, 11:22 AM
Well i should clarify my engine mount breaks.
The first one I landed up side down off a 6 ft ramp on the concrete and it bent the snot outa the head and destroyed the engine mount.
The other I was trying to front wheelie with the rear tires in the air and it flipped again on the street and broke the mount.
My chassis is slighlty bent under the engine too!
MikeWz
07-09-2005, 11:38 AM
Wow...I know I bash hardcore, but you guys must be insane. I've not ever managed to bust an engine mount...but I dont' really wind up on the lid unless I'm trying to climb a hill and it rolls (mostly going sideways on a hill, and hitting something that flips it over).
Fantom pipes are great. They'll cool your engine by pushing more of the unused fuel back into the engine, which allows you to run a leaner setting than with the stock pipe. Cooling heads IMO are a giant waste of money. Yes, the keep the running temps down, but does a lower engine temp really mean longer life....no. The engine needs to run a certain "optimal" temp. Cooling it down too much can acutally decrease power. And, you can't really lean out the mixture to bring the temps back up, because than not enough oil is getting into the engine because not enough fuel is getting in
Monsterbrad
07-09-2005, 06:04 PM
Well that is true for most engine's
but I have to say that my 4.6 that came outa my savage that is now in my race truck ran super hot till I put the Nova head on it.
Now its runs great and does not get hot anymore.
There are pro's and con's to all this stuff.
I like the Nova race products heads they work much better then the stock heads on alot of these engine's.
THis is the second head that I have had from them and they are great looking also.
You just have to watch smoke when you change the head cause you can run them too lean with a larger cooling head or a better one then stock!
RCfrodoRC
07-09-2005, 11:04 PM
with this truck can u do backflips pretty easy or is it to hard.
metalry101
07-10-2005, 01:18 PM
Stock it won't do backflips, or even wheelie. With an insane motor you can get it to wheelie, but it's not easy because the truck is so long. It'll really move, but pulling the front end off of the ground is hard. My 4.6 has done it a few times, but not very often. That's fine by me though. It's rather difficult to steer a truck when the front tires are in the air.
RCfrodoRC
07-10-2005, 03:04 PM
i was wondering b/c i saw i video where they were doing backflips when they did the review on the truck.
Monsterbrad
07-10-2005, 08:06 PM
The best truck for back flips are the truggies the SUT and the Hot bodies LSP!
this truck will do one but its kinda hard.
and you need alot more engine then stock!
metalry101
07-10-2005, 08:32 PM
Oh...in the air, yes. It will do backflips off of a jump in stock form.
MikeWz
07-10-2005, 09:17 PM
Back flips and front flips are very easy with this truck. It's incredibly easy to control in the air. Mine jumps very much like a buggy...so I guess the rest of them would too :o
I put T-maxx sized tires and wheels on my stock MGT (my first one) and it pulled wheelies and reverse wheelies. I have a video to prove it. I might upload it onto ******.net if I get enough requests.
As far as the Transmitter and batteries I can use for it, would these (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5956692671&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V) work, size wise? I don't have my MGT yet (in the mail) and I just ordered the following:
(2) Venom 1200mAh NiMh Rx packs
(1) Duratrax Temp gun
(1) Ofna Failsafe
Now I'm looking for a good replacement for the NiMh batteries I use in my Tx. I don't mind using them, but it's a lot easier to just swap out a pack. I might just buy an MX-3 unit since they're pretty good and the stock AE radio is kinda....hollow. What do you guys think?
Monsterbrad
07-10-2005, 11:38 PM
I use duracell's from K-mart
rechergeable ones
NiMh they work great
astainback
07-11-2005, 01:18 AM
JR XS3 Pro all the way.
I bought one and I love it.
RDucky02
07-11-2005, 01:27 AM
mx3 i use.... no problems, good price, loving it.
metalry101
07-11-2005, 01:30 AM
I use energizer 2100's in my Tx. As for the Tx, it's a Futaba 3PM. The menus are terrible, but the rest of the radio is rock solid, and the Rx is tiny.
MikeWz
07-11-2005, 06:53 AM
You should look at the Hitec SRX-3. It's a 3-channel FM radio that has a module, so it will accept a Synthesized system if you so desire. For less than $150, it comes with the TX, micro RX, and a 645 servo. I say that's a pretty good deal. It's also very comfortable, and not extremely cheap looking. It's also got a digital display so you can adjust all the digital trims and what not. Cool feature too, is they give you a little foam pad to put on the inside front part of the trigger, so your finger fits pretty good in there, without all the extra room. Makes braking accurately a whole lot easier. It's a great radio.
As for batts, you can pick up some rechargeable Double AAs and a charger for pretty cheap on Ebay, always carry an extra pack of some cheapy AAs (non-rechargable) on-hand just incase. See if you can snag a pit-bag to carry all your stuff to your bash spot...or just go with a back-pack :cool:
I agree with Mike, always have non-rechargeable AA's in your tool box + a spare humppack for the truck....
Here's the vid of my first MGT doing reverse wheelies on some T-Maxx tires....totally stock other than that!
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=36510
Monsterbrad
07-11-2005, 05:55 PM
I have revo wheels on mine
with the Mach,49 spur and 17 pinion
it rips pretty good
wheelies like crazy!
smileyboy
07-14-2005, 08:42 AM
What tigerdrive do I get for my mgt? it has the stock engine. I am buying it from tower hobbies.
thanks
MikeWz
07-14-2005, 10:06 AM
Any particular reason you want the tiger drive? It comes with a set-up for a drill starter. I don't even think they make a tiger drive for it
smileyboy
07-14-2005, 11:29 AM
I don't like the pull start.
MikeWz
07-14-2005, 11:49 AM
You don't need to use the pull start. If you noticed that black thing that sticks out of the "back-plate" of the pull start, it's for a drill start. It comes with the wand, all you need is a drill. It works awesome, because if your drill battery dies, than you've got the pull start for back-up. Don't waste your money on a tiger drive.
smileyboy
07-14-2005, 01:58 PM
Really? I have a 18v drill. So the wand is included?
monstatruCkin
07-14-2005, 05:12 PM
yes it should of came in the box with the mgt. just make sure when you use the drill start your drill is spinin in the right direction
smileyboy
07-14-2005, 06:36 PM
which is forward or reverse?
MikeWz
07-14-2005, 07:11 PM
It's easy to tell. I forget if it's forward or reverse, but if you're spinning it in the wrong direction you won't hear the engine turning over at all. That's why it's call a one way bearing
metalry101
07-14-2005, 07:14 PM
I think you'll need to spin it foward.
monstatruCkin
07-14-2005, 07:43 PM
ok ill try to walk you thru it. when you put the drill with the wand in it in the drill start hole on the engine, make sure the drill is spinning the wand towards the rear tire not the front one.
monstatruCkin
07-14-2005, 07:46 PM
or say your tightning a screw you have the drill set so it turns the screw in a clokwise direction- the same goes for startin the engine with the wand.
rc10bob
07-15-2005, 12:48 AM
Hi, have a question, need some help, I would like to put a 27 sirio in mgt the help I need is. I don't want to use a pull start or tiger drive, is there a hand starts if so do you know who makes it.
badboy2
07-15-2005, 02:23 AM
rc10bob maybe theres a rotostart conversion for it ...i think pullstart is the best imo
MikeWz
07-15-2005, 11:30 AM
Good luck with that. It's not possible to use a starter box. Myself, and as far as I know, Cotharyus have been working on a way to start the truck without a pull start or "roto" start of any kind. It'll take some dremeling of the spurgear guard (at least if you do anything similar to what I'm trying), but I've almost got it working very reliably. It's quite hard to get the flywheel to turn, and it's hard to keep it on the fly wheel. Working on that
astainback
07-15-2005, 10:02 PM
I have revo wheels on mine
with the Mach,49 spur and 17 pinion
it rips pretty good
wheelies like crazy!
What kind of header and pipe are you using with the Mach?
I was mounting mine up today to run tomorrow (breakin), and I realized that the side exhaust header that I was using on the stocker with the fantom pipe will not work on the mach .26. I am pissed now..
Also, what do you do about throttle linkage?? I am going to seach for this part.. i know i have read it before.
adrian
Monsterbrad
07-16-2005, 02:03 AM
I cut the side off the plastic guard!
And I am running the stock LST pipe!
I have not tried any other pipe on a Mach yet!
I am not sure which one I want so I keep the stocker on there.
I would say if I were to try a pipe it would be the JP 2 pipe for high end cause the Mach has so much low end power!
astainback
07-16-2005, 05:47 PM
Using the black ring off of the stock motor worked fine.
Now all I need is a new throttle linkage.
adrian
Monsterbrad
07-17-2005, 11:05 PM
The Mach is a great engine you will like it!
Just by chance if it sounds funny when you start it stop asap pull the back plate off and check the rod bearing !!!!!!!
they are having trouble with those in the last few shipments.
Mine is in getting rebuilt or maybe a new one cause of this.
Just a heads up
you will know cause it will sound really strang when you first start it!
astainback
07-18-2005, 12:24 AM
Thanks for the heads up. I am didn't run it this past weekend for 2 reasons..
One being that I don't have a long enough throttle linkage yet. (too far from hobby shop) and 2 being that it was really hot, and I wasn't in the RC spirit. I went to see War of the Worlds instead. Awesome movie.
Monsterbrad
07-18-2005, 05:45 PM
Cool
I am still waiting to see how this engine moving thing is going to do this time!
I keep losing my mesh!
pisses me off
I damn near broke the allen wrench off tightening the bolts!
MikeWz
07-19-2005, 09:18 PM
So, the truck is apparently not unbreakable :p . I swiftly ran the truck into a pole yesterday. It was actually the end of a swing set, which had 3 poles on the end of it. The usual two that go front and back, than there was one that went out the side. Unfortunately, the pole in the front was blocking that thrid pole, so I didn't see it. Ran the truck right into it, and broke my shock tower. Hit really hard too. Was probably doing 15-20mph at the point. At least I had the satisfaction of knowing I went directly in the middle of the other two :cool:
Monsterbrad
07-19-2005, 10:55 PM
that was one of the first things I broke on my truck that stinkin shock tower!
I drove it like that for a while though :D
metalry101
07-19-2005, 11:19 PM
Ouch, that's a hard hit.
So far, I've broken quite a bit actually. The lower a-arms are terrible, the rod ends are junk, and the pins are always falling out of the axles (I haven't had a chance to heat shrink them yet, but I will get around to that very soon). The diffs seem to be pretty beefy, but nonetheless, I have toasted a rear, and the front clicks a little under heavy braking. I've broken a coupla other things, but those have been my fault. The a-arms are just poorly designed, the CVD's are poorly designed, and the rod ends just suck, period. Other than those things the truck seems to be almost bombproof.
Cotharyus
07-20-2005, 07:52 AM
Strange - I've only ever broken one upper and one lower A-arm, and I've had the truck for well over a year. I've also never had a pin come out of the axles. Maybe you just got a lemon?
Monsterbrad
07-20-2005, 06:39 PM
Well I have to say that I have had a bunch of monster trucks and this truck besides the GS SUT has taken the most amount of straight up pounding then any other truck I have right now!
You can drive the wheels off this truck and it seems to just go and go!
Mine has seen it all snow,water,sand,huge jumps and everything else I have thrown at it!
I broke and a-arm this winter when I was doing some pretty extreme jumping off a snow pile into the black top drive way and it landed bad on the right front corner and broke both top and bottom a-arms!
It still ran to finish that tank of gas!
MikeWz
07-20-2005, 07:54 PM
Haha. Well, the shock tower ripped totally off, so when I was driving it the front end just plowed. I was driving on Mulch, so when I hit the gas you saw the two darker colored marks from the wheel spin, and when I let go just one darker mark in the middle where the front bumper was plowing through. Need to order one on-line (prolly get two just incase) because nobody around here carries MGT parts
Metal - Dude, you musta got a lemon or something. Do you have one of the original trucks with the straight pins? If so, you're gonna want to get the ones with the notches in them so the set screw holds. I will admit the rod-ends are pretty weak. The plastic is cheap and they tend to bend pretty easily. I don't think anything else fits on such thick Turnbuckles though. As for A-arms...you really think they're poorly designed? I've only managed to break one, and I deserved it. Cam down from like 7-8 feet on the front right tire, and happend to catch a root or a stone or something with that tire and just ripped it off the pin. That's the only arm I've broken. The shock caps are a PITA though. Need to get those FT ones.
Have you shimmed the diffs yet? That should solve any diff blowing problem. Sounds like your front diff is on its way out. Heard that on my friends truck and we were trying to figure out what it was. Sounded like his brake was catching at first, and then we realized he was running in 2wd.
Monsterbrad
07-20-2005, 10:01 PM
Can one of you guys post the shim kit from tower or wherever you are getting it from!
thanks
Look back a few pages for that site. It was on there...
metalry101
07-20-2005, 11:53 PM
Yes, I do think the lower a-arms are poorly designed. Most trucks have bracing running from the leading edge to the trailing edge, eliminating torsional flex and tying everything together. The AE ones on the other (much like the Widemaxx Traxxas arms) are hollow down the center from the hingepin mount all the way to the pivot ball mount. When I launch my truck and it comes down on all four, the suspension bottoms out and the shocks try to push through the arms. They don't go anywhere on my LST, they don't go anywhere on my Pro-Line suspension equipped E-Maxx, they don't even go anywhere on my Mad Force, but on my MGT, they eventually break the a-arms there. It's very poorly designed IMO. The arms hold up well to front impacts and such, as well as any a-arms except Savage a-arms IMO, but for jumps, the stock arms truly do suck.
As for the pins, I think the 2.9 horsepower might have something to do with it, because I do have the ones with the notches. I'm going to try shrink tubing them, but I don't think it's going to solve the problem completely. The only way to do that is to buy properly designed CVD's, aka MIP. There's a reason MIP has the bone capture the stub axle instead of the other way around. Maybe AE and Losi (my LST has the same design, but not the same problem, at least not yet) can't do that without infringing on MIP's patents or something, but if they can, then they need to use MIP's design. I could be way off on this, but I believe the reason the LST and MGT both have problems with the pins flying out, and MIP's don't is that the bone captures the stub axle. Since the bone changes angle throughout the suspension travel, and usually spins at some sort of angle other than 0, the pin "wobbles" so to speak. When the stub captures the pin, the pin spins in a perfect circle, meaning all of that rotational energy is constantly trying to pull the pin out, and only out. When it "wobbles," some of the energy is lateral, helping to keep the pin in. I could be wrong, but my theory makes sense to me. There has to be a reason MIP CVD's don't have nearly as many "ejector pins" as the other designs.
As for the clicking, ya, I know that's my front diff. I'll wait until it's 2WD to replace it. For 50 something dollars, I want maximum life.
I did blow a few shock caps, but the Powerstrokes solved that problem.
I'm hoping shrink wrap will solve the CVD problem, and I think I'm going to try RPM's arms.
MikeWz
07-21-2005, 12:15 AM
I now run MIP CVDs on my truck. You're going to want to dremel your own notch in their pins. They come without it. I lost TWO pins in one day. I called MIP for replacements, as it was the first time I was running the truck. I cranked them down, used threadlock on the set-screw and gave it 2 days to dry, and they still came out. They claim they've never had a problem with them, but the same thing happend on my ST :mad:
MikeWz
07-21-2005, 08:07 AM
Anybody know of a tire that'll hook up good in some fairly loose sand. I know the Zombie's do that really well, they're just way too heavy. The bow-ties don't get the kind of bite I'm looking for on the track sometimes. After a few heats it loosens up really bad.
4DMNYC
07-21-2005, 10:58 AM
Have you tried the Proline Mulchers?
MikeWz
07-21-2005, 11:12 AM
Not yet. I hear they're heavy though. Trying to avoid that. If there's nothing lighter, I may just stick to the Zombie Maxx tires. They hook up on loose stuff really well
MikeWz -> check this site, this should help you
http://pages.globetrotter.net/rc10gt/misc_anglais.htm#Tires_comparison_
Monsterbrad
07-21-2005, 10:54 PM
Get some paddle tires on there !!!
That will make it rip in the sand
sand is very hard on these trucks thats all i can say!
MikeWz
07-22-2005, 08:48 AM
Slaf - That's a great site, but unfortunately it just says "racing" or "AT". I'm there are some tires that are very obviously better on specific surfaces (paddles > Sand etc.), but I'm not sure which would be great for fairly loose conditions.
Brad - The track doesn't turn into Beach-like conditions, so I don't think paddles will be necessary (but that gives me an idea. Baja style racing on the beach...with checkpoints >:). The bowties hook up real nice in the beginning of the day when they wet the track, but as the day wears on and the track gets run on more it loosens up.
Anybody have any experience with Maxx Mulchers or Crime Fighters?
Coth - Your track is fairly loose isn't it? How do those king pins hook up?
Mike -> Looks like your track condition are the same as on my own track. Hard packed when wet but getting loose when it dries...I run Zombie Maxx tires on fairly loose surface or for bashing and it works A1 but like you said before they are a little bit heavy. I know Proline Mulcher are good on loose track and they are lighter.
And thanks for the comment on the site :)
MikeWz
07-22-2005, 11:03 AM
Slaf - Maybe you could get some info on the tires by listening to the guys here, and add in an extra column as to what surface they run better on. You can put the Zombie's as all terrarin tires, leaning more towards loose surfaces. Bowties are better for "loamy" surfaces".
When I come up with some extra cash, I'ma try those mulchers. They look like they'll dig through the loose stuff and catch what's still packed underneath. May try those Cell Blocks too, although they look awfully similar to the Bowties
Mike -> I'll try to add a new column...Thanks for the tips :)
Did you check I-Mex tires ?
Monsterbrad
07-22-2005, 05:33 PM
You might even want to try some Revo stock tires!
They are pretty good tires on any surface !
The Losi Zombie Maxx tires are by far the best all around tire I have ever used on any monster truck!
They bite good on all surfaces!
Cotharyus
07-22-2005, 05:33 PM
Mike - the SKP's are nice. Really. I'm not entirely sure how they'd do on your track, because while mine is loose, it's not "sandy" loose - it's more like a loam.
Are any of you guys in NY State?
I need a 52 spur gear for Sunday.None of the local shops have one.I burned mine up today. :(
MikeWz
07-23-2005, 03:14 PM
I'm on Long Island, but that's kinda a far drive. Always have 2-3 spur gears on hand just incase
Monsterbrad
07-23-2005, 05:41 PM
I don't like the slipper on this truck!!!!
Seems to like to eat gears all the time!!!
Mine gets crazy hot but I have it just about all the way cranked down which is hard on the tranny!
I threw a left over Hot Bodies LSP body on this truck!!!!
Looks kinda cool
Breakin2
07-23-2005, 08:35 PM
Anyone know if AE has any plans of offering a kit version of the MGT?
metalry101
07-23-2005, 11:11 PM
I doubt it. The truck has been out for like 3 years now. If they haven't offered a kit version yet I doubt they ever will. It's possible...but not likely.
Monsterbrad
07-23-2005, 11:14 PM
I would say also most likely not!
They sell enough of these that are RTR they don't have to make it a Kit.
Most of us guys tear them all apart anyways but I can see where a kit would be nice just to see how it all goes together!
MikeWz
07-24-2005, 11:27 AM
I'm pretty sure I remember seeing a post a while back about it. Somebody e-mailed AE about a kit...and an FT kit offering and they said no. I would be cool..but oh well
Monsterbrad
07-24-2005, 02:48 PM
factory team would be cool
but there is so much you can do to these trucks!
I lost the rear drive pin outa the cv joint comming off the tranny last night
that makes them all now that I have lost at different times1
Guess I should have checked them for Loc Tite
ooops :cool:
Ball Racing
07-24-2005, 05:36 PM
You don't run heat shrink on those joints, to keep the pin in??
astainback
07-25-2005, 01:10 AM
Ok, I just want to say that the Mach .26 is awesome. It was switching to 2nd gear with hardly any throttle applied when I was breaking it in. I put a 17 tooth clutch bell on it when I changed the engine.. looks like I am going to have to put the 49 tooth spur on as well!!!
Everything was going great until my friend hit me with my own Savage and broke my upper A-arm. Should I get RPM a-arms or more stock ones??
Also, the Maximizer beadlocks are sweet. I am glad he didn't bust one of those!! They were brand new!!
Adrian
Ok, I just want to say that the Mach .26 is awesome. It was switching to 2nd gear with hardly any throttle applied when I was breaking it in. I put a 17 tooth clutch bell on it when I changed the engine.. looks like I am going to have to put the 49 tooth spur on as well!!!
Everything was going great until my friend hit me with my own Savage and broke my upper A-arm. Should I get RPM a-arms or more stock ones??
Also, the Maximizer beadlocks are sweet. I am glad he didn't bust one of those!! They were brand new!!
Adrian
With my Picco 26, I run 17T clutch bell and 49 or 52 spur gear depending of the track.
If you are running with standard maxx size tires, with a light suspension setup I'll suggest you to keep your stock a-arms. I had bottoming-out problem with RPM A-arms because I was running 50WT shocks oil + red springs and maxx bowties. My truck was too much bottoming out when landing 3-4ft jumps. But RPM a-arm are really tough and they should be fine on a less jumping track
Cotharyus
07-25-2005, 07:39 AM
Yea. A word on gearing. My OS RG? It pulls 17/49 gearing pretty well - most things are just a little quicker off the line, but once on the mid and top end, about the only thing that really pulls me is the Revo's with the .18's on them. And keep the stock arms. The RPM arms change the geometry too much.
Coth -> Is your RG stock ? I have not read the forum since many weeks...
Monsterbrad
07-25-2005, 10:20 PM
The new OS 18 TZ is a crazy I have heard!
Nothing has the torque of a BIG BLOCK!
Cotharyus
07-26-2005, 07:48 AM
Slaf - it's stock as far as what I was talking about with gearing. I have done a little minor porting to it, but I haven't been able to run it in quite some time.
badboy2
07-26-2005, 12:26 PM
does 18/52 makes it wheelie alot?mine keeps on doin wheelies...on any surface with my wasp26
MikeWz
07-26-2005, 11:07 PM
You guys should ALL e-mail them over at www.vantageracing.com and tell them you want them to make CF a-arms for the truck. If the a-arms are as "weak" as some people say, this will more than likely help. On top of that, I bet you they'll weigh less than the stockers...and be more rigid :cool:
Cotharyus
07-27-2005, 07:46 AM
Mike - or anyone else for that matter - do you know anyone using a Vantage pipe? Are they any good? I need to hit vantage racing at some point from a windows computer since something about thier site doesn't like my Unix desktops, but I keep hearing good things in general about the company.
MikeWz
07-27-2005, 08:05 AM
Gimmie a month or so, and I'll have one of their pipes just to give it a shot. If it's not any good, up on ebay it goes. I think even their 1/8th "buggy" pipes are torque pipes though. I'd rather have something for mid-top for racing
astainback
07-27-2005, 04:46 PM
Well, I wish I would have read this earlier... I have already ordered a pair of RPM a-arms from stormer. They only had 3 in stock so I ordered 2. I was going to replace the front first, then the back later.
I mostly use this truck for jumping. I was running the red/gold combo on the springs, but it was still a little soft for me so I am running red/copper now.
Would you guys still recommend the stockers over rpms with this suspension setup?? I am running stock shocks w/ stock shock oil.
adrian
Monsterbrad
07-27-2005, 05:39 PM
the RPM arms make the truck ride lower!
So for jumping I would say keep the stock ones and send the RPM ones back and buy a few extra stock ones for spares when they break.
If you really want to use RPM A-Arms, just use the upper one. The lower a-arms change the suspension geometry and they will make your MGT bottoms out.
Red/copper springs seem to be a good choice for jumping, I'll suggest you thicker shock oil but not thicker than 50wt or 55wt. If you go too thick, you'll blow shock caps.
I had RPM A-arms on my MGT before and I switched bad to the stock a-arms. I never broke any a-arms yet.
astainback
07-28-2005, 02:13 AM
Ok, I guess I don't understand how it could make the truck bottom out.. but Ok.
Sending them back would cost too much. Don't the rpm ones have an extra choice for shock mounting??
Couldn't I raise the truck height??
adrian
Cotharyus
07-28-2005, 07:40 AM
astainback - somewhere in this very forum, is a lengthy discussion, pictures, and explainations of exactly what the RPM arms do, look like, etc on this truck. It's going to be worth a read for you to find it.
astainback
07-29-2005, 04:20 AM
astainback - somewhere in this very forum, is a lengthy discussion, pictures, and explainations of exactly what the RPM arms do, look like, etc on this truck. It's going to be worth a read for you to find it.
I have been through the thread a couple of times. Don't remember seeing it. I will look for it.
adrian
astainback
07-29-2005, 04:30 AM
Stay away from RPM A-Arms....They are waste of money no matter if you race or bash...
Maybe they can be only good for onroad racing...
I bought those a-arms and I went back to the stock ones.
MGT doesn't need that much to be a full racing machine :)
Just to let you guys know, I saw on another forum where this guy bent down the tabs that limit the down travel of the a-arms, and the rpm a-arms had the same travel as the stockers. I will try to get a picture up soon.
adrian
Bending the tabs for better droop will not help much to solve the bottoming out problem.
The major problem if I remember right is that the shock mounting holes on the lower a-arm are not at the same place.
Monsterbrad
07-29-2005, 09:29 AM
RPM arms are more for racing!
They lower the truck down for a reason.
lower is better on the track.
But good suspension movement is a plus also.
I should try the gold red spring combo cause my truck is just way to soft!
jimcrawler
07-29-2005, 01:47 PM
Heres My Mgt"savage Slayer"
MikeWz
07-30-2005, 12:08 PM
Jim, post up a bigger picture. It's WAY too small to see anything. If you need a host you can use www.photobucket.com
kurrz
07-30-2005, 02:46 PM
Went to the gravel pit today for the first time for a major bash session. Its amazing to watch this truck in a wide open space and to have dirt mounds to jump everywhere. Can't wait to do it again. But it'll have to wait until I get a new rear turn buckle, it was already a little bent then I jumped it 6 feet in the air and absolutely foiled it. The jump was almost worth it. LOL Also what are some good bashing tires, at the pit sometimes you hit sand and if you are wot the truck will spin out. Thanks
kurrz
07-30-2005, 06:01 PM
Hey guys I've been thinking I would like to have another MT just to bash with. I have no "real" LHS so parts support is out the window. What truck should I get?
MikeWz
07-31-2005, 01:04 AM
Kurrz - A better place to post a question like that would be in the MT section. You'd probably get a less bias opinion there :p .
In answer to you first quesiton, though. I'd say that Zombie Maxx tires are probably your best bet. They hook up really well on pretty much anything, and they have an excellent life-span. I've got about 3 gallons (less what little track time I used with the Bow-ties) and they still look like they have the same tread they did when they were new. They're lighter than most other "bash" tires you can find too, so they won't screw up performance at all
AEMGT90
07-31-2005, 12:29 PM
Okay, I just bought a brand new MGT and the shop broke it in and tuned it perfect, we ran a few tanks when we got home and near the end of the last tank of the day it stalled, we started it again and it was running horribly out of tune and running like a POS. Any idea on whats wrong or happening?
Thanks
kurrz
07-31-2005, 02:44 PM
Thanks Mike on the tires question. I didn't want to post in the monster truck section and start a flame war. I thought I would ask here first because I trust you guys opinions and know you own more than just the MGT. I love my MGT but, when it breaks it's a week and a half before I get parts, thought if I had another truck it would be less downtime. Thanks for all and any opinions.
MikeWz
07-31-2005, 08:11 PM
How many tanks do you have through it and did you change the glowplug yet? That's a big mistake a lot of people make. After break-in it's almost necessary to change the glow-plug. That could very well be the problem.
Kurrz - I you're going to use it strictly for bashing the Savage would probably be your best bet. It's the only truck I've found to hold up as well as this one. The LST was having problems, but it's been out for a while now so they mave have fixed it. I haven't really heard too much about that truck positively or negatively lately so it's hard to say. Just general questions about it. Apparently the TNX is pretty good too, but I really feel like it's too low to be a good basher, and it also has a problem breaking bones unless you buy the upgrade kit (and you'll NEED the powerstroke shocks for it because the stockers suck hardcore). That'll wind up being $100+ in upgrades right there.
metalry101
08-01-2005, 12:46 PM
Monster GT 4.60 SE RTR!!!!
All steel tranny gears, new monstrous engine (I'm assuming this is the Thunger Tiger .28 that some people have mentioned). Sweeeeeet.
Cotharyus
08-01-2005, 04:41 PM
link?
MikeWz
08-01-2005, 04:42 PM
Coth - You can check it out in the New stuff forum. It's really nothing special. It's exactly the same truck with a TTR.28 and steel tranny gears. I've never had a problem melting gears or really heard of anybody (other than Sabs, but he was having all sorts of tranny probs) who had problems with the stock tranny. Just adds more weight :p
Taito
08-01-2005, 06:19 PM
I was thinking the same thing - I never had problems with the Tranny gears... and thats with the slipper VERY tight and a RB TM728, which is not exactly a weak engine. Even WOT Landings were no issue... the gears still look new.
Go figure, I guess the metal gears are for Marketing purposes. :rolleyes:
I hope the gears are at least aluminium gears, not steel. Everyone that did the Forward-Only conversion and held all the leftover reverse-junk in his hand knows what I'm talking about :eek:
Oberan
08-01-2005, 08:29 PM
Hi all first time posting long time reader.
I finaly had something to post about, this is from the Team Associated Email I got.
1. NEW PRODUCT!
Monster GT 4.60 SE
The new MGT 4.60 SE has all the features you loved on the original MGT, and now Team Associated has added a few more!
At the heart of the new MGT beats the AE 4.60 engine which has increased displacement of 33%, making the MGT 4.60 SE deliver more horsepower and stump-pulling torque!
To make sure all of that extra power gets down to the ground, the MGT 4.60 SE's 2-speed transmission now comes equipped with new tough steel gears and steel CVAs that are up to the job of handling the massive torque.
The current rugged extruded aluminum chassis, oil filled shocks and huge mounted all-terrain tires give the MGT 4.60 SE over 4 inches of ground clearance, letting you take that power over almost any obstacle.
The new MGT 4.60 SE comes with Team Associated's XP-3 radio system that is factory installed for complete and total driving control. A full line of genuine Factory Team performance parts are available for the MGT 4.60 SE to let you trick out your truck to your specifications!
Part number and retail pricing:
#20501, Monster GT 4.60 SE RTR, $839.99
UPC: 78469520501
Availability:
Early Sept. 2005
Web photos:
http://www.rc10.com/enlarge/20501_side.htm
http://www.rc10.com/enlarge/20501_engine.htm
http://www.rc10.com/enlarge/20501_gears.htm
Oberan
RCfrodoRC
08-01-2005, 08:56 PM
yeah that looks pretty cool
Monsterbrad
08-02-2005, 12:58 AM
thats cool!
Associated is just not big in change though!
They should at least throw a new body on there.
That is a thunder tiger engine!
Will be very interesting to see how it runs compared to all the 28's that are out there now!
MikeWz
08-02-2005, 09:08 AM
I will be getting the engine as soon as it's available by itself. I will let everybody know how it goes. Unfortunately it won't really be a "fair" comparison because it'll be significantly cooler in september
I'm sure this new .28 mill will be as good as all other TTR engines.
I never broke any tranny gears with my Picco but a all new metal tranny sounds good for bashing but for racing this is extra weight to carry and rotate.
I already ordered two of those new MGT to my distributor...
MikeWz
08-02-2005, 12:32 PM
Lol. Maybe if you part them out on Ebay, you can set me up with the .28 ;)
Yes I'll part them on EBay.
I was looking for a LRP 28 to replace my Picco 26 but I'll wait to see the new TTR 28.....
I blown the stock steering servo last weekend and I ordered a Airtronics 958.....
And since I can't run my MGT....I started my RC10GT I just fell in love (again) with my RC10GT....
metalry101
08-02-2005, 12:38 PM
What's wrong with the stock body? It's the toughest body on any RTR monster by far.
As for the engine...I hope to God it revs, because the old .21 wasn't lacking power...it was lacking revs. If this .28 doesn't rev any higher then the truck won't be any faster out of the box. Of course it'll be capable of higher speeds with a gearing change, but I'd still have to tell people that out of the box it'll only do 35.
As for that LRP .28...I don't know if I've mentioned this already...but it's the new Mach .28. They're indentical, not a good thing if you like motors that don't explode...at least in theory since so many Mach .26's grenaded.
Metal -> You mean that the LRP 28 and Mach 28 are the same engine ????? I'm not sure....
metalry101
08-02-2005, 12:45 PM
I'll promise it. We've got a Mach .26 and the LRP .28 in the shop. EXACT same block. The LRP and the Mach might end up coming out with different heatsinks or something, but the block is indentical, and I'm just going to assume that everything is inside as well if they're the same size.
Cotharyus
08-02-2005, 02:52 PM
Ouch. Because IMHO, the mach .26 sucks. Badly. That's not a good sign if they're the same, or even close.
MikeWz
08-02-2005, 11:26 PM
Was anybody even planning on getting that LRP motor? I would stray away from any nitro product that an electric guru puts out.
Still looking forward to the TTR .28. Slaf, 'lemme know when you part those trucks out. I will buy that engine off you ASAP, possibly even the whole truck if I have the cash at the time :cool:
Monsterbrad
08-02-2005, 11:41 PM
I have had a few Mach's and they have all been really good!
They are an ok engine for rtr!
I did have problems with the one in my newest LST but they rebuilt the entire thing for free.
I have to still break it in but I would not agree that there new 28 will stink.
Time will tell.
metalry101
08-02-2005, 11:41 PM
I'd be interested in that TTR .28 too if the price is right.
As for the LRP .28, I might try it some time. I'm a poor kid...but it's not that expensive really, and I'm assuming they went to a .28 because the internals needed a redesign anyways. The Mach wasn't a bad motor when it ran, it's just the keeping it from blowing up part that was hard. One of these days I'll try that LRP.
Monsterbrad
08-02-2005, 11:44 PM
I race the K 4.6 engine outa the savage 28 every weekend!
I am very pleased with it so far has almost 2 gallons through it and still going good.
Only problem I have had is with the pull string breaking but a new one or the roto start will cure that problem.
Oh yeah and the Nova race products head makes a huge difference.
I would like to try one in the MGT and see how it runs.
My MGT has a Mach in it now and it runs right with a an LST !
Pretty impressive
metalry101
08-02-2005, 11:47 PM
That 4.6 isn't bad. I've got one of those in my MGT as well. I've had problems with mine, but I think it's my exhaust. The FT header doesn't fit over the exhaust port on the motor properly so I think I'm getting leakage there, which coupled with my mediocre (at best) tuning skills has meant some not so fun days. The motor makes a lot of power though...no complaints there, and I have yet to have the problems with the pull start that so many others have had (knock on wood).
As for the Mach, like I said, when they run, they typically run great. However, too many of them blew up.
Oh ya...don't bother with a Roto Start. You'll just eat up one-ways instead of pull-starts.
Monsterbrad
08-03-2005, 12:03 AM
I would like to try the new 528x Novarossi engine.
I have heard thats a ripper
Ok Here's a LRP 28
http://www.teamassociated.com/newprod/2005/lrp32801_z28r_600.jpg
And here's a Mach 26
http://www.teamlosi.com/ProdInfo/Gallery/losb0010-04-450.jpg
Any difference ???? Looks like they are the same engine...At least crankcase :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
Monsterbrad
08-03-2005, 09:04 AM
remember here guys you only have to change the piston and sleeve to get the 28 part outa the engine!
the crank and bottom end can stay the same!
For them to make the 28 and make it afordable they left the things that are good alone like the block and probably the crank and changed the rod piston and sleeve making those things a little bigger for more torque and hopefully more rpm but these 28's are not rpm monsters unless you get a higher end one!
metalry101
08-03-2005, 12:01 PM
Hopefully this Mach .28 (and the LRP .28) won't be as explosive as the .26 was. Time will tell. The .26 has been discontinued, so I think we'll see the Mach .28's in LST's very, very soon.
Cotharyus
08-04-2005, 12:58 PM
Thought I'd update you guys on the track - we just redid it. Pictures are in the misc section under track-2005-7-30.
http://maxxtrack.homeip.net/pictures/
Monsterbrad
08-04-2005, 03:40 PM
I hope that the new 28 will run with the 4.6 or better!
Cause the Mach runs close too it!
I am surprised to hear all the troubles with the Mach engine lately.
I think it has alot to do with where they are made at and the quality control factor.
I was not aware that they were discontinued!
Thought I'd update you guys on the track - we just redid it. Pictures are in the misc section under track-2005-7-30.
http://maxxtrack.homeip.net/pictures/
Coth -> Can you remember me where your track is located ?? I convinced my wife to go down to the USA next summer to see a "real" RC race. I'm looking for something north east cause I don't wanna drive 3-4 days to get there :)
Cotharyus
08-05-2005, 07:48 AM
We're in Tennessee, just north of Nashville. Probly a little further than you want to drive for a race, but hey, if you want to come down, bring your truck, we'd be happy to have you visit. :)
MikeWz
08-05-2005, 09:21 AM
I should come out there. That's not terribly far from Long Island. I mean it's not next door or anything, but it's not too bad
Monsterbrad
08-05-2005, 01:01 PM
Hey coth you near
Speed Zone Raceway at all???
I get alot of my stuff from them.
Mike is a great guy (the owner that is)
RCfrodoRC
08-05-2005, 05:17 PM
Hey Guys, i want to get a nitro monstertruck and i'm between the savage and mgt. I will use it for mostly bashing and maybe some racing in the future. Which one do you guys think would be the best for my use. And any suggestions on any other trucks would be good too. THX
Monsterbrad
08-05-2005, 05:30 PM
I have had them all pretty much for monster trucks and I would say narrow it down to the MGT and the LST.
The MGT is cheaper and is tougher but needs a new engine and gearing to be as fast as the LST!
But stock the MGT is way tougher just slower but realiability makes a truck to me.
I like to pound my stuff and I can say the savage is a good truck but the MGT and LST are better.
The savage is just to small.
It is fast but I like the size and lenght of the other 2 better.
MGT or LST
I did not know which one I liked better so I have both.................LOL :D
RCfrodoRC
08-05-2005, 08:47 PM
yeah the lst seems cool but a little out of my price range since it will take me like till x-mas to save up for a mgt
Cotharyus
08-06-2005, 07:40 AM
brad - I've never heard of the speedzone race way before. Where i sit?
Monsterbrad
08-06-2005, 10:57 AM
Coth
Athens and Sweet water
1-866-590-0763
Thats the main store's number.
If you do use him for stuff tell him Brad Pence sent ya.
he might cut ya a break :)
Cotharyus
08-07-2005, 09:18 AM
Hmm. I'll have to look into it, but mostly when I need something I either order it online, or run up to my LHS (where they usually end up ordering it for me!) - I basicly go there so that I have someplace within 20 minutes driving time that sells fuel. I can't imagine if he closes having to go back to driving an hour to 1 3/4 hours each way just to get somewhere that sells fuel. I've said more than once, if he ever goes out of business, I'm going to go back to racing electric, and convert the MGT. Brushless and LiPo. Hmm.... Twisted aint I?
MikeWz
08-07-2005, 10:10 AM
Coth - There have been pictures going around these forums of a BL MGT. I guess that's cool if you like electrics and all....but.....but....that's just not right :p
Finally after almost 3 years of owning and running this truck, I get to race today. Finally. Stuff has come up EVERY weekend except today :cool: . Not gonna win, but it'll be fun
Monsterbrad
08-07-2005, 06:00 PM
Mine is going to go to the track here in a week or so!
never raced it but it will be fun too see it run in the monster truck class seeing's how I always race truggy.
will be nice to just put around the track and hit the jumps.
and beat the heck outa the truck like i do all the time.
THis is my beater and it loves to be driven hard.
MikeWz
08-07-2005, 08:42 PM
Man...only my friend and I showed up to race today. That's highly dissapointing. Woulda been sweet too because the truck was dialed. Can't say that I'm the most experienced 4-wheel drive racer out there and I'd only been there to practice 2-3 times, but I think I woulda done fairly well. Had the 10K diff oil in the back, and actually made it quite twitchy in the turns. Actually needed to take off some of the toe-in because it was oversteering like crazy. Hopefully people will be there next weekend. Day ended with a broken shock cap :(
Cotharyus
08-08-2005, 07:29 AM
Now you know why I went to the FT shocks even though they're heavier :)
I blew the stock steering servo last week. I ordered a Airtronics 958.
I also took my rear diff apart for a check up. No play or loose, everything is perfect after 4.5 gallon. I'll replace stock diff grease with 10000wt diff oil.
I also ordered stuff to rebuild my drive shafts and robo disk brake.
Since I can't run my MGT I run my 10GT. I didn't have time to run as I wish, I was in vacation and I visited few friends and family. I also finished my track....This is why I didn't post much this last weeks...
MikeWz
08-08-2005, 01:27 PM
When I get enough money I'm just gonna go for the powerstroke shocks...or a vantage pipe to take some more weight off and hopefully reduce the chances of blowing caps. Dunno what I'm gonna do yet
Mike -> Go with the PowerStroke shocks !!!
Cotharyus
08-08-2005, 04:41 PM
Mike - I'm looking hard at the powerstroke shocks myself. Of course, I keep hoping that the price will go down.
They were around 80$ on EBay the other day...
metalry101
08-08-2005, 10:55 PM
I hope that the new 28 will run with the 4.6 or better!
I honestly don't see that happening. Unless they played with the gearing, I don't see the truck being any faster. The old .21 wasn't very fast because it doesn't rev. Increasing displacement to .28 isn't going to help the revs. It should make enough power to push taller gearing...but whether or not AE gears it higher remains to be seen. As for pricing...I checked out the pricing today at work..and it should be exactly the same as the current truck, maybe even a few bucks less.
MikeWz
08-08-2005, 11:25 PM
The bigger the engine, the less it's going to rev. Unless you're ferrari, that remains true pretty much no matter what (hardcore F-1 engines aside). You'll note that 4 cyl engines rev higher than 8 cyl engines. The same holds true with R/C engines. A .12 will rev higher than a .21 without question. It's just that the bigger engines have huge amounts more torque so they can pull a taller ratio. If a .12 could pull the same ratio, it'd be faster on top
metalry101
08-08-2005, 11:31 PM
Size isn't the only thing affecting revs. Nascar engines do something the neighborhood of 10,000 RPMs...and those are fairly large V8s.
A Picco .27 or an HPI 4.6 will both easily outrev the TT .21, and they both have over 30% more displacement. Porting makes more of a difference in rpms than anything else. It is generally true that smaller engines rev higher and quicker...but not always.
MikeWz
08-09-2005, 12:40 AM
Well yeah, I wasn't saying that bigger engines CAN'T outrev the smaller ones. Take Ferraris 6.0L Twelve in the Enzo, which revs in the 10K area. Or F-1 cars that rev around 14-16K+, and those are 8s/10s and such.
I'm curious as to why the TTR .21 doesn't rev as high as the HPI 4.6. The porting on the 4.6 isn't really that much wilder. I'm almost positive the materials in the HPI are lighter, and that the exhaust port is open a little longer. I'm guessing that's what does it (the materials will definitely help). I'm thinking about extending the exhaust port timing on the TTR and messing with the "boost" ports, and the "head button" a little bit to see what I can do. The crank is definitely heavier because it's not ported similarly at all, really. I'm gonna try to mess with that too and we'll see what happens. It's not much to get a new P/S set and this engine is on its way out anyway. If I make a paper weight out of it, no big loss really
We're in Tennessee, just north of Nashville. Probly a little further than you want to drive for a race, but hey, if you want to come down, bring your truck, we'd be happy to have you visit. :)
I wonder how far Tennessee from here...
I guess I should take the plane...:)
Look at this Coth, is this time to retired your RG ?? -> http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=202611
Cotharyus
08-09-2005, 07:54 AM
Slaf - the RG is retired. It has simply never re-started, and I haven't had time to sit down and order a sleeve for it. At this point, I'm going into my LHS next time I drive by it, and ordering one of those. That engine is why I've been still running the RG for so long.
Mike - for the record, all currnet F1 engines are 3.0L V10 engines, which rev to 19K rpms. Next years engines will (for the most part) be 2.4L V8's. I've seen a video of the Ford (oops, they sold that didn't they?) engine on the dyno already at 20K RPMs.
In general, yes, the heavier the internal components of an engine are, the slower they're going to rev. However, that's just not a hard and fast rule. You can push a heavier engine further, realistically, but if you're dealing with theoretical limits, then ..yes. However, how many.12's do you see reving like the .18tz? I expect the OS 30 is going to kick everyone's rear.
Coth -> Do you mean that you don't race at all since your RG died ?
MikeWz
08-09-2005, 10:11 AM
Coth - I thought they started that 8 rule already. Oh well. That guy is going to kill this sport real fast if he keeps these crazy rules and restrictions. I still wish they didn't have traction control :(
Honestly, all the Fantoms I've run out-rev that TZ without a problem. I used to run them in my ST all the time. It actually took me a while to get used to it. I thought there was something wrong with them because they kept revving, like maybe my slipper was too loose or something. But nope, it was the engines. The original Sirios will out rev it too. Other than the CV-RX, those are the only .12s I have experience with that are meant to be High revving engines. I had a few MT12s, but those are a longer stroke engine, so they didn't rev nearly as high.
Cotharyus
08-09-2005, 02:50 PM
Slaf - I haven't had time to race, even bash for about 2 months now. Hopefully soon that will change.
Monsterbrad
08-09-2005, 07:41 PM
The bigger engine's are not high RPM monsters that's for sure!
The high end 21's will scream but they don't have the torque that the 28's and 26's have.
Torque is what moves these truck around so good.
You can tell when an engine has had enough throttle wise!
It loses power
Almost all these engine's will over rev but it takes a ton to blow them up unless they are just flat worn out or have weak parts in them.
monstatruCkin
08-09-2005, 08:07 PM
the mgt 4.6 is going to come with 16/52 gearing. ae told me. also, the cvds are the same,just a mess up on there site
I looked at the tuned pipe, it's look like a different pipe...
MikeWz
08-09-2005, 10:20 PM
http://www.teamassociated.com/enlarge/20501_engine.htm
Looks pretty much the same in this picture :confused:
metalry101
08-09-2005, 10:20 PM
They list a different part number for the new pipe, I know that much. As for the gearing...that's hardly a change...stock on the .21 is 15/52.
monstatruCkin
08-09-2005, 11:21 PM
yea the new mgt is probably going to be 1 or 2 mph faster than stok but i dont care about speed. i care about power! i still think they slacked off in so many areas. they could of updated the sucky slipper, the suky rod ends, the suky center outdrives, they could of put some nice ft caps on the shocks, put bearings in the bellcranks, included a better rollbar, shimmed the diffs(ae told me they were never aware of this problem), include better knuckles with bigger bearings, a better radio, fuel tubing to engage the brake instead of the suky spring, better servos, stainless screws.
yea the new mgt is probably going to be 1 or 2 mph faster than stok but i dont care about speed. i care about power! i still think they slacked off in so many areas. they could of updated the sucky slipper, the suky rod ends, the suky center outdrives, they could of put some nice ft caps on the shocks, put bearings in the bellcranks, included a better rollbar, shimmed the diffs(ae told me they were never aware of this problem), include better knuckles with bigger bearings, a better radio, fuel tubing to engage the brake instead of the suky spring, better servos, stainless screws.
And sell the truck for 800$ ! All you listed are not major problem for me.
The slipper can be easily modified to be "a little bit" adjustable and slipping
OK the rod ends are weak...
My outdrives still in good shape after 4 gallon....No problem here
Never blown a shock cap yet,,,
I added bearing to the bellcrank myself (6-7$)...
I bent 2 rollbars...
Never shimmed my diff and I inspected them this week and there was no need for any shims, no play at all
For the knuckles, I never broke one yet but some of my friends did
Bigger bearings...Maybe
Even if the radio looks plastic, it's an excellent one with good features....for a stock radio
Stock servos are enough for most people. if you race, you'll need faster and more torque servo...
And for the fuel tubing instead of spring for the brake, it's cheap to do...
For me AE must fix the turnbuckles end, install a better side tuned pipe, maybe new smaller wheels/tires....
Cotharyus
08-10-2005, 07:45 AM
Roll bars? I've had mine off for so long, I'd forgotten these things came with roll bars....
MikeWz
08-10-2005, 10:05 AM
You're not going to see AE change their radios untill the get a better deal, and when you see that you're going to see the prices jump up. Fortunately JR and Losi are both owned by Horizon so you can get an awesome truck with an awesome radio for an awesome price. For AE, that probably won't happen so you're going to see the cheap radios for a while. They feel very uncomfortable, but they work. And besides, you can snag a 3-channel FM radio for about $120 with a servo, so that's not even really a huge problem (but if they charged $500 than for the truck, everybody would complain that the truck costs too much).
There aren't really too many weak-spots on this truck, and those of them it does have aren't serious issues. The center out drives aren't really that bad, I've only heard of a few people that have had problems, and only after they installed a bigger engine. The slipper isn't the best out there, but it's the same slipper that MTs have been using forever. Most bashers won't have problems with the diffs, it's the racers going through a whoop section on power that are going to have the problem. What's wrong with the kunckles? You don't hear too much about those either, and besides you can even throw a T-maxx kunckle on there and be okay (and EVERY hobby shop stocks Maxx parts).
Honestly, they didn't have a huge amount to really fix on the truck, just what most people e-mailed them about
Speaking of e-mail....you guys should all e-mail Vantage racing again and tell them to make CF arms for the Monster GT :D
monstatruCkin
08-10-2005, 01:32 PM
well with jumbo kongs on everything wears fast lol. the knuckles arent a problem, but it seems that when i crash (with kongs), the knuckle breaks at the rod end. as for the slipper, i seem to burn up pegs in no time.its very annoying. i tighten it all the way down though. my roll bar bends when it lands on its lid from a jump. my oudrives wear at the pin hole. i still think its my jumbo kongs that wear everything fast. i weighed them in at just shy of 8lbs for all four. i hope you people dont think im stupid or fussy or whatever, but i was just saying all the little and biger things ae could of done with the truck thats left up to the owner.
monstatruCkin
08-10-2005, 05:12 PM
can anyone point out to me a good clutch setup that will last with jumbo kongs?i cant seem to make a clutch last more than 11 tanks using kongs. i take care of them great to. i smoked a stok clutch, mugen aluminum shoes, and i just smoked an mip clutch. i just want a clutch that will engage great, and will last real long with kongs. i asked this on monstergtforum.com but everyone said the stok clutch, so i want all your opinions. thanks
MikeWz
08-10-2005, 06:30 PM
Just out of curiosity, if the Kongs really cause all those problems....why even run them anymore? Are they really THAT much better than any other tire?
monstatruCkin
08-10-2005, 06:57 PM
mike, i just love the kongs. and no imo they arent better than any tire. sure there good on the snow and grass and mud, but they uterly suk when you try to get up to speed. they wobble all over the place. they look good, they get good traction, and it has great ground clearance, but like i said the wear it puts on my drivetrain sucks. i was looking at other tire choices so maybe you can help- proline moab?-imex swamp dawg?-imex claw dawg? i dont race, just bash
Lower your gearing the most you can. Don't use aluminum shoes, keep the stock one and use stiffer springs like the Mugen 1.1
MikeWz
08-10-2005, 08:49 PM
Slaf - wouldn't stiffer springs just hurt it? The clutch would engage later, which means the shoes would hit harder. That would probably hurt his CVDs even more, and the clutch shoes would probably still slip.
The Zombie-Maxx tires are pretty awesome. They hook up really well in pretty much everything. And if you ever decided to race they wouldn't be too bad for that either. People seem to like pro-line's Big Joe too. I've always been a fan of the Dirt Hawg tires, although I've never run the Monster Truck version (can't see them being any different) You'll have to get the 40 series rims for the pro-line tires, though. Just don't get the velocity rims because they'll bend.
monstatruCkin
08-10-2005, 10:42 PM
thanks. i did gear it down a tooth (15/53) but it ate my mip clutch up in no time. should i gear lower? so ill buy a new stok clutch, some mugen1.1 springs(already used 1.1 springs with mugen alu shoes and it worked good but they wore down to nothin) and try it out. it just seems perfect at 15/53. does the clutch work harder(wear faster) if the gearing isnt as low as its supposed to be? any suggestions?
metalry101
08-11-2005, 01:18 AM
I run the Mugen clutch shoes with Ofna copper springs and it works great. I've got 2.5 to 3 gallons on those shoes and about half a gallon on the springs and I gotta say they definately rock.
Personally, I can't stand the Jumbo Kongs...but if you like them, you might consider a more powerful engine. No matter how you gear the stock engine, it's going to struggle to push that much tire. If you're set on the stock engine for whatever reason, I'd definately suggest some 30% fuel and a better pipe to maximize the power from the stock mill. As for gearing, buy a 14 tooth bell...or even a 13 if you can find one. You need the smallest bell you can find.
As for other things to help...a FOC will help trim some rotating mass. It won't help a ton with tires that heavy, but every little bit helps.
monstatruCkin
08-11-2005, 02:24 AM
well i would buy a better engine but i dont have the $$ right now. so im trying to make use with what i have on hand.im usin trinity monster horsepower 30% fuel and i love it, its definately an improvement over traxxas 20% i use to use. alot of people hate the kongs, but they just look sik! im makin a trip to my lhs today to see what they will say on my clutch issue, and i really think im going to have to switch back to stokers to stop burnin up clutches so fast.
metalry101
08-11-2005, 03:41 AM
You want a grabby clutch, not a slippery stock one. Slip equals heat, heat equals wear, wear equals money. A grabby clutch is harder on your drivetrain, but with only the stock engine, it shouldn't be a problem.
Try a 14T CB but I think that the Jumbo Kong are TOO big for any Monster and you should live with the clutch problem.... :(
RCfrodoRC
08-11-2005, 01:49 PM
hey what is the best fail safe for this truck. at a good price
All failsafes will work with this truck, in fact failsafe works with electronics not the vehicle.
I have 1 Venom and 1 Micro Dynamite failsafes on my trucks....No complaint with them...
monstatruCkin
08-11-2005, 02:11 PM
i use a venom also and it never failed me yet. it saved me 3 times from runaway with kongs(scary thought right)) i also use duratrax failsafes on my other nitros and they are just as good, and there easier on the wallet to.
it looks like there is no bad failsafe :)
MikeWz
08-11-2005, 09:39 PM
What about a throttle return spring? When you lose signal or RX power, it'll just pull the throttle servo back to neutral position. The MGT comes stock with one, and it's prevented a few Runaways from fly-away RX packs for me :p
metalry101
08-11-2005, 11:23 PM
A throttle return spring is great on those occassions, but when failsafes start at only 18 bux, it's hard to fathom a worthy excuse for not having one.
A failsafe will not work if your throtle rod pop off the carb. It's best to have both. Some card included throttle return spring...
metalry101
08-12-2005, 01:59 PM
How in the world would the linkage come off? Anyways...I agree that it's best to have both. I always use a throttle return spring...and my LST has a fail safe. I haven't had any problems at all with my MGT trying to run away so I haven't bothered with a fail safe yet. I will someday..and it will probably be the Ofna.
Or if your battery pack disconnect....
monstatruCkin
08-12-2005, 11:04 PM
imo a failsafe and a trs should both be used as a preventitive measure from runaways.
Hi Monstatruckin....I'm RC10GT_MGT :)
I just started racing my MGT.I purchased the Proline 40 series rims and tires.The MGT handles alot better but i have found the front bumper is to long now.The bumper digs in on the jumps to much.Anyone else had this problem?I made a new bumper out of Kidex to try this week.It is much shorter and loops up to connect on top like the original.
What do you mean by "The bumper digs in on the jumps to much"........
The bumper hits the jump before the tires do.
Is your suspension bone level ???
First time I heard the bumper hits the jump before the wheels.... What's your jump angle ? :)
Yes some of the jumps have to steep of a angle.
But my buddies Revo doesn't have the same problem.
I think the problem is more the jump than the trucks :)
Your probly right but i have to adapt the truck to the track.
Cant change the jumps
monstatruCkin
08-13-2005, 01:07 AM
hey slaf i didnt know you were rc10gt- its good to know since your so helpful on monstergtforum.com. i cant wait to go racing with chevy up in fitchburg. it looks like im going to be using stok tires which is going to do the truck more bad than good. i have my shocks set up w 60woil and blue/copper springs on each end. i have 4 red springs also but i dn which setup would work the best on a track. it all depends what type of track it is. i think my jumbo kongs might work better in a race since it doesnt seem like the sidewall flexes as much as the stok tires because its a harder compound. but my kongs would probably wear the clutch out before the race is over so... any suggestions ?anyone?
metalry101
08-13-2005, 01:24 AM
Stock tires over Jumbo Kongs for racing any day. The Kongs will raise your center of gravity to roughly the height of Mount Everest...not a good thing for racing. They're also too heavy for you to have any acceleration, or braking, or turning, and more weight means more inertia, so if you wreck, you'll be more likely to break something.
monstatruCkin
08-13-2005, 02:11 AM
yea it makes sense. thanks for the help
There well worth the money for better handle on track.
Cotharyus
08-13-2005, 09:12 AM
TNN - You probly need stiffer springs on your MGT if the bumper is digging into the jumps. I also started using Losi's Super King Pins, which helped a good big with the overall handling feel of my truck. Of course, I realize my truck is still far from as near perfect a racing truck as the Revo is, but it doesn't stop me from beating them once in a while. As far as not digging into the jumps, the Revo will roll on it's tires until it's almost on it's lid. It's the difference between the trucks that causes them to act so differently on the track.
Monsterbrad
08-13-2005, 11:47 AM
The revo is to short
the MGT is easier to drive
and way tougher
fezzy
08-13-2005, 12:46 PM
Dont be such a stereotypical arse MonsterBrad.
Monsterbrad
08-14-2005, 01:30 AM
:eek:
fezzy
08-14-2005, 08:38 AM
Your well within your rights to prefer one truck over another, Thats freedom of choice, And just like you I prefer one truck over another, But in my case its my Revo and not my MGT. I don't think its too short, I don't think its hard to drive and I certainly don't think its less durable than my MGT (Running parts count is in favour of the MGT at the momment and thats seen less than a gallon where my Revo has seen more than 3).
But this is besides the point, What you don't see me doing is ranting on about how good my Revo is over my MGT. But what I do disagree with you doing is broadcasting your immature tittle tattle all over this forum, All I wish you'd do is think before you type, And maybe offer and objectionable opinion to a conversation rather than your blunt immature BS.
hey slaf i didnt know you were rc10gt- its good to know since your so helpful on monstergtforum.com. i cant wait to go racing with chevy up in fitchburg. it looks like im going to be using stok tires which is going to do the truck more bad than good. i have my shocks set up w 60woil and blue/copper springs on each end. i have 4 red springs also but i dn which setup would work the best on a track. it all depends what type of track it is. i think my jumbo kongs might work better in a race since it doesnt seem like the sidewall flexes as much as the stok tires because its a harder compound. but my kongs would probably wear the clutch out before the race is over so... any suggestions ?anyone?
I'm glad you think that I'm "useful" cause my english is not perfect :)
For racing, I think that 60wt with blue/copper is too stiff for the track. Go with 40 or 50wt shock oil and blue/red springs as a base line. I run/race 50wt with gold/red springs and it works best for me.
For the tires, there is nothing wrong to race with stock tires since you are beginner. BUT this should be your first upgrade before anything else. Proline Bowties serie 40 + Velocity 23mm wheels is the most popular setup for racing. Also, if you don't have a humppack, it's time to buy one before racing !
crackerjack
08-14-2005, 12:51 PM
:rolleyes:
monstatruCkin
08-14-2005, 01:24 PM
im using a venom 1200mah nimh rx pack. that was the first thing i got when i bought my mgt. i put the steering servo in the throttle/brake position, and i put a 645mg servo for steering since its stronger than stock. what if the shock setup is to stiff for the track? when it lands from a jump, it will bounce all over the place right? blue/red combo wont be to soft? i dont wanna bottom out that much
MikeWz
08-14-2005, 03:13 PM
If it's too stiff there are a few things that will happen:
1.) You'll bounce when you land jumps making it really hard to control. If you don't land correctly, or it takes a bounce in the wrong direction, you're pretty much screwed
2.) Any rough sections of the track? Shocks aren't going to soak it up and "float" over it correctly and it could throw your truck in a different direction
3.) If you're making a turn and there's a bump there, the shock won't soak it up correctly and it could cause you to roll
There's probably something I'm missing here, but that in intself should be enough to show you that racing with over stiff suspension is no dice
I'm running red&Gold springs with 60&50wt oils .60wt with the red springs and 50wt with the Golds.The truck lands good.But I broke a axle sunday when i cart wheeled the truck off the table top.Can you say big bummer.This was in practice and I didn't have a replacement.
Monsterbrad
08-18-2005, 05:46 PM
I was thinking about selling the truck then I ran it again.
This truck is just too much fun to bash!
Make a big back yard track and have some fun.Just need a big roll of pipe and a lawn mower. :)
MikeWz
08-19-2005, 10:06 PM
My friend and I were actually working on that for awhile. Unfortunately this was a much more involved prosses. Cutting down big overgrown weeds and weird bushes and stuff. Cutting apart big trees that had fallen down. Getting rid of the big roots from the big weird weeds. Laying down weedkiller to make sure all the roots are dead. Needless to say we never finished
Sounds like you were making your track in the woods.I'm thinking about doing that next year.More shade and a damp ground.Have to make the track go around the standing trees.
Seabass202
08-21-2005, 06:39 PM
man!!
had a very strange collision on the track last night, over shot a turn and found the truck facing the wrong way on the long straight got nailed head on by another very heavy mt only damage was somehow the carb was jammed into the idle screw which put a burr in it and the servo couldn't even move the carb any more..so I took everything apart used a dremmel to clean up the problem which got the carb working again and since I was in there and had my dremmel I put all the modifications to the sleeve I could think of (just making the sleeve look like some of my other higher performance engines I have) also ground on the crank a little bit. my mgt will now scream!! stock everything else it will pull the front wheels up no problem! there is power to be unlocked in the stock engine! If you want I will take it apart and post pics
but it truely is unbelievable! also note I have two mgt's and the one I just worked on smokes the stock one!
What you useing for a pipe to quiet it down.The guys at the track i race are complaneing about how loud my MGT is. :rolleyes:
I put Mugen MBX5 clutch shoes in my MGT.They seemed to work well.And the FOC and my truck was hard to beat today.
Monsterbrad
08-22-2005, 11:43 PM
Mugen makes good stuff
There aluminum shoes are great for racing.
I am still running the stock clutch with the Mach and I can not believe that it is still going.
Team Associated needs to design a MGTst for the unlimited class.Like XTM Mammoth st.One of the guys I race has one and I can beat him.But if the track was bigger for more speed he would win all the time.The MGT does'nt take bad landings off jumps well.Something usually brakes in the rear of the truck so far.Stripped out servo saver last week.Took hard hit from XTM st to right front wheel.LOL
Cotharyus
08-23-2005, 07:38 AM
TNN - the only thing I ever broke on the back of the truck on a bad landing was a shock cap - what'd you break?
metalry101
08-23-2005, 12:45 PM
Team Associated needs to design a MGTst for the unlimited class.Like XTM Mammoth st.One of the guys I race has one and I can beat him.But if the track was bigger for more speed he would win all the time.The MGT does'nt take bad landings off jumps well.Something usually brakes in the rear of the truck so far.Stripped out servo saver last week.Took hard hit from XTM st to right front wheel.LOL
AE should never, ever, ever, ever redesign anything to be like an XTM product. They're junk. I had a Mammoth a while back...and I don't think I've ever seen a worse truck. My Mammoth made a Pro .15 T-Maxx look tough and well designed. The only good part on the Mammoth is the engine. The rest of the truck is junk.
Mammoth ST is alot different truck then the First Mammoth.Im not saying I like the truck.Just a better race design example. ;)
Monsterbrad
08-24-2005, 01:00 AM
associated is not a company likely to change things !!!
Look at the MGT and the RC10 GT
they have not changed in forever and the gt needs re done badly to catch up with the Losi XXXNT.
THe MGT and the Rc10 gt are great trucks don't get me wrong here
but the old gt needs a new style
the MGT is a great all around truck
Have any of you guys tried the servo saver steering kit?I got one on order because I keep stripping out the servo saver on the servo.Hard landings off from the table top jump.
TNN - the only thing I ever broke on the back of the truck on a bad landing was a shock cap - what'd you break?
I,ve broke one rear axle,one rear spindle and rear tie rods.
Have any of you guys tried the servo saver steering kit?I got one on order because I keep stripping out the servo saver on the servo.Hard landings off from the table top jump.
If you mean the Factory steering kit (with integrated servo saver) YES it's worth the price. I have it on my MGT and it's way better than the stock servo saver (which I replaced with an blue Ofna servo arm).
The only negative point is that you must adjust the servo saver spring before you install the skid plat otherwise you can reach the adjusting nut. I adjusted mine on a little bit on the tight side just to be sure I can steer where I want under any circonstance or codition...
Sounds good thanks. Well I have some good news my MGT TQed against a LST,REVO and XTM Mammoth ST.Had the 20 min main in the bag till I flamed out because my motor was running to lean.This was because I switched from Red Alert fuel to Trinity Monster horsepower fuel.Realy made the truck rock though.But no harm done to the motor.I did finish second to the REVO. :rolleyes:
astainback
08-29-2005, 02:21 AM
Gearing problems/questions.
I am having a little problem completely grasping gearing/gear ratios/tooth count..
Here is what I understand.
Stock gearing = 15 CB / 52 SG
smaller CB, more low end
bigger CB, more top end
smaller spur, more top end
bigger spur, more low end
I put tmaxx size zombie maxx tires on rpm rims and never changed the gearing. I ran like this for quite a while.
Now I have the Mach .26 in, and I changed my gearing a little.
Now I run 17 CB / 52 SG
I also bought a 49 SG, but I have not installed it. My question are...
1. What do you need to do for gearing as far as dropping your tire size (stock to tmaxx size)??
2. I know that putting a bigger clutch bell on will give you less bottom end and more top end... and that a smaller spur gear will give you the same.... and if I do both, I will have even more top end.. but is there a difference?? if I go up 3 teeth on a clutch bell or 3 teeth down on a spur gear.. is there a difference??
3. I still run zombies, but on Maxximizer offset beadlocks now. I am running the 17cb/52sg setup, and if there are any better recommendation, please let me know.
4. How do I calculate gear ratio??? (sorry is this question is stupid)
5. My truck used to jump like a dream. With the new motor it wants to throw it's nose up in the air. I tried letting off the throttle a little earlier and that helped.. and braking in the air leveled it, but it just isn't the same.. Is this normal?? Could re-gearing for more top end help this??
6. I want to know what the best gearing for walking wheelies is as well. Sometimes when I bash, I want pure low end grunt. I want to pop wheelies and walk them across the dirt field, have power to hit a ramp with a short running distance.. you know.. power. haha
7. Off the gearing topic... I found Lunsfor titanium turnbuckles for 48.99 new. Should I go for it??
8. I broke another front hub the other day.. RPM hubs or no RPM hubs??
9. Shocks.. change them, or add the FT caps?? are the FT shock bodies worth the money??
Thanks for reading if you did, and sorry for all the questions. I have been really busy, and I don't get to run a lot now. When I do, I get worked up and tons of questions pop up in my head.
thanks,
adrian
astainback
08-29-2005, 02:23 AM
I am having a little problem completely grasping gearing/gear ratios/tooth count..
Here is what I understand.
Stock gearing = 15 CB / 52 SG
smaller CB, more low end
bigger CB, more top end
smaller spur, more top end
bigger spur, more low end
I put tmaxx size zombie maxx tires on rpm rims and never changed the gearing. I ran like this for quite a while.
Now I have the Mach .26 in, and I changed my gearing a little.
Now I run 17 CB / 52 SG
I also bought a 49 SG, but I have not installed it. My question are...
1. What do you need to do for gearing as far as dropping your tire size (stock to tmaxx size)??
2. I know that putting a bigger clutch bell on will give you less bottom end and more top end... and that a smaller spur gear will give you the same.... and if I do both, I will have even more top end.. but is there a difference?? if I go up 3 teeth on a clutch bell or 3 teeth down on a spur gear.. is there a difference??
3. I still run zombies, but on Maxximizer offset beadlocks now. I am running the 17cb/52sg setup, and if there are any better recommendation, please let me know.
4. How do I calculate gear ratio??? (sorry is this question is stupid)
5. My truck used to jump like a dream. With the new motor it wants to throw it's nose up in the air. I tried letting off the throttle a little earlier and that helped.. and braking in the air leveled it, but it just isn't the same.. Is this normal?? Could re-gearing for more top end help this??
6. I want to know what the best gearing for walking wheelies is as well. Sometimes when I bash, I want pure low end grunt. I want to pop wheelies and walk them across the dirt field, have power to hit a ramp with a short running distance.. you know.. power. haha
7. Off the gearing topic... I found Lunsfor titanium turnbuckles for 48.99 new. Should I go for it??
8. I broke another front hub the other day.. RPM hubs or no RPM hubs??
9. Shocks.. change them, or add the FT caps?? are the FT shock bodies worth the money??
Thanks for reading if you did, and sorry for all the questions. I have been really busy, and I don't get to run a lot now. When I do, I get worked up and tons of questions pop up in my head.
thanks,
adrian
astainback
08-29-2005, 02:26 AM
I am having a little problem completely grasping gearing/gear ratios/tooth count..
Here is what I understand.
Stock gearing = 15 CB / 52 SG
smaller CB, more low end
bigger CB, more top end
smaller spur, more top end
bigger spur, more low end
I put tmaxx size zombie maxx tires on rpm rims and never changed the gearing. I ran like this for quite a while.
Now I have the Mach .26 in, and I changed my gearing a little.
Now I run 17 CB / 52 SG
I also bought a 49 SG, but I have not installed it. My question are...
1. What do you need to do for gearing as far as dropping your tire size (stock to tmaxx size)??
2. I know that putting a bigger clutch bell on will give you less bottom end and more top end... and that a smaller spur gear will give you the same.... and if I do both, I will have even more top end.. but is there a difference?? if I go up 3 teeth on a clutch bell or 3 teeth down on a spur gear.. is there a difference??
3. I still run zombies, but on Maxximizer offset beadlocks now. I am running the 17cb/52sg setup, and if there are any better recommendation, please let me know.
4. How do I calculate gear ratio??? (sorry is this question is stupid)
5. My truck used to jump like a dream. With the new motor it wants to throw it's nose up in the air. I tried letting off the throttle a little earlier and that helped.. and braking in the air leveled it, but it just isn't the same.. Is this normal?? Could re-gearing for more top end help this??
6. I want to know what the best gearing for walking wheelies is as well. Sometimes when I bash, I want pure low end grunt. I want to pop wheelies and walk them across the dirt field, have power to hit a ramp with a short running distance.. you know.. power. haha
7. Off the gearing topic... I found Lunsfor titanium turnbuckles for 48.99 new. Should I go for it??
8. I broke another front hub the other day.. RPM hubs or no RPM hubs??
9. Shocks.. change them, or add the FT caps?? are the FT shock bodies worth the money??
Thanks for reading if you did, and sorry for all the questions. I have been really busy, and I don't get to run a lot now. When I do, I get worked up and tons of questions pop up in my head.
thanks,
adrian
astainback
08-29-2005, 02:43 AM
Gearing questions....
I am having a little problem completely grasping gearing/gear ratios/tooth count..
Here is what I understand.
Stock gearing = 15 CB / 52 SG
smaller CB, more low end
bigger CB, more top end
smaller spur, more top end
bigger spur, more low end
I put tmaxx size zombie maxx tires on rpm rims and never changed the gearing. I ran like this for quite a while.
Now I have the Mach .26 in, and I changed my gearing a little.
Now I run 17 CB / 52 SG
I also bought a 49 SG, but I have not installed it. My question are...
1. What do you need to do for gearing as far as dropping your tire size (stock to tmaxx size)??
2. I know that putting a bigger clutch bell on will give you less bottom end and more top end... and that a smaller spur gear will give you the same.... and if I do both, I will have even more top end.. but is there a difference?? if I go up 3 teeth on a clutch bell or 3 teeth down on a spur gear.. is there a difference??
3. I still run zombies, but on Maxximizer offset beadlocks now. I am running the 17cb/52sg setup, and if there are any better recommendation, please let me know.
4. How do I calculate gear ratio??? (sorry is this question is stupid)
5. My truck used to jump like a dream. With the new motor it wants to throw it's nose up in the air. I tried letting off the throttle a little earlier and that helped.. and braking in the air leveled it, but it just isn't the same.. Is this normal?? Could re-gearing for more top end help this??
6. I want to know what the best gearing for walking wheelies is as well. Sometimes when I bash, I want pure low end grunt. I want to pop wheelies and walk them across the dirt field, have power to hit a ramp with a short running distance.. you know.. power. haha
7. Off the gearing topic... I found Lunsfor titanium turnbuckles for 48.99 new. Should I go for it??
8. I broke another front hub the other day.. RPM hubs or no RPM hubs??
9. Shocks.. change them, or add the FT caps?? are the FT shock bodies worth the money??
Thanks for reading if you did, and sorry for all the questions. I have been really busy, and I don't get to run a lot now. When I do, I get worked up and tons of questions pop up in my head.
thanks,
adrian
astainback
08-29-2005, 02:50 AM
I am having a little problem completely grasping gearing/gear ratios/tooth count..
Here is what I understand.
Stock gearing = 15 CB / 52 SG
smaller CB, more low end
bigger CB, more top end
smaller spur, more top end
bigger spur, more low end
I put tmaxx size zombie maxx tires on rpm rims and never changed the gearing. I ran like this for quite a while.
Now I have the Mach .26 in, and I changed my gearing a little.
Now I run 17 CB / 52 SG
I also bought a 49 SG, but I have not installed it. My question are...
1. What do you need to do for gearing as far as dropping your tire size (stock to tmaxx size)??
2. I know that putting a bigger clutch bell on will give you less bottom end and more top end... and that a smaller spur gear will give you the same.... and if I do both, I will have even more top end.. but is there a difference?? if I go up 3 teeth on a clutch bell or 3 teeth down on a spur gear.. is there a difference??
3. I still run zombies, but on Maxximizer offset beadlocks now. I am running the 17cb/52sg setup, and if there are any better recommendation, please let me know.
4. How do I calculate gear ratio??? (sorry is this question is stupid)
5. My truck used to jump like a dream. With the new motor it wants to throw it's nose up in the air. I tried letting off the throttle a little earlier and that helped.. and braking in the air leveled it, but it just isn't the same.. Is this normal?? Could re-gearing for more top end help this??
6. I want to know what the best gearing for walking wheelies is as well. Sometimes when I bash, I want pure low end grunt. I want to pop wheelies and walk them across the dirt field, have power to hit a ramp with a short running distance.. you know.. power. haha
7. Off the gearing topic... I found Lunsfor titanium turnbuckles for 48.99 new. Should I go for it??
8. I broke another front hub the other day.. RPM hubs or no RPM hubs??
9. Shocks.. change them, or add the FT caps?? are the FT shock bodies worth the money??
Thanks for reading if you did, and sorry for all the questions. I have been really busy, and I don't get to run a lot now. When I do, I get worked up and tons of questions pop up in my head.
thanks,
adrian
See my answers in bold black....
I am having a little problem completely grasping gearing/gear ratios/tooth count..Looks like you have another problem with multiple posts..:)
Here is what I understand.
Stock gearing = 15 CB / 52 SG
smaller CB, more low end
bigger CB, more top end
smaller spur, more top end
bigger spur, more low end
I put tmaxx size zombie maxx tires on rpm rims and never changed the gearing. I ran like this for quite a while.
Now I have the Mach .26 in, and I changed my gearing a little.
Now I run 17 CB / 52 SG
I also bought a 49 SG, but I have not installed it. My question are...
1. What do you need to do for gearing as far as dropping your tire size (stock to tmaxx size)?? When you run with smaller tires you must use a taller gear ratio. Stock tires are 178mm and your Zombie Maxx are 153mm. By changing your tires you have lost 15% (153mm/178mm). To still have the same top end and acceleration you must gear up 15%
2. I know that putting a bigger clutch bell on will give you less bottom end and more top end... and that a smaller spur gear will give you the same.... and if I do both, I will have even more top end.. but is there a difference?? if I go up 3 teeth on a clutch bell or 3 teeth down on a spur gear.. is there a difference??Considering that the stock CB is 15T and spur is 52T. Each tooth you add on the CB is 6.7% more top end, same is true if you remove a tooth on the CB but is lower the top end by 6.7%. If you remove a tooth on the spur gear, you will increase your top end by 1.9%. So using a CB with 3 more teeth(18T) (3x6.7%) and 3 teeth (49T)down on the spur (3x1.9%) will increase your top speed by 25.8% and lower your bottom end by 25.8%
3. I still run zombies, but on Maxximizer offset beadlocks now. I am running the 17cb/52sg setup, and if there are any better recommendation, please let me know.Zombie Maxx are 15% smaller than stock tires and you geared up your truck by 13.4%. If you bash gear ration is not a problem. If you race you must adjust your gear ration to your track. I'M running 17T/49T on my track with my Picco 26.
4. How do I calculate gear ratio??? (sorry is this question is stupid)It's spur / clutch bell. 52T spur / 15T clutch bell = 3.47 ratio. BUT this is the ratio between the clutch bell and the spur. This is not the final (wheels) ratio.
5. My truck used to jump like a dream. With the new motor it wants to throw it's nose up in the air. I tried letting off the throttle a little earlier and that helped.. and braking in the air leveled it, but it just isn't the same.. Is this normal?? Could re-gearing for more top end help this??What's your shock oil and springs setup ? Maybe too stiff in the front...What's the jump pitch ??
6. I want to know what the best gearing for walking wheelies is as well. Sometimes when I bash, I want pure low end grunt. I want to pop wheelies and walk them across the dirt field, have power to hit a ramp with a short running distance.. you know.. power. hahaSmaller gearing, with a Mach 26, 15T/52Tor 14T/52T will make wheelies...
7. Off the gearing topic... I found Lunsfor titanium turnbuckles for 48.99 new. Should I go for it??I use FT turnbuckles. I don't know for Lunsford but I know the make very good parts...Sorry..
8. I broke another front hub the other day.. RPM hubs or no RPM hubs??I'm still using the 4 original knuckles.... RPM knuckles and bearing are beefier. RPM plastic is tough but a little bit more flexible. The only downside of the RPM kinuckles are the bearing price but I think few people bough them in a hardware store....
9. Shocks.. change them, or add the FT caps?? are the FT shock bodies worth the money??At first I was sceptic, but I'll recommend you Proline PowerStroke. You can easily find them on EBay for 80$
Thanks for reading if you did, and sorry for all the questions. I have been really busy, and I don't get to run a lot now. When I do, I get worked up and tons of questions pop up in my head.
thanks,
adrian
I hope this help !!! For more gear ratio information check my web site -> http://pages.globetrotter.net/rc10gt/misc_anglais.htm#Spur_and_clutch_bell_ratio_
or
http://pages.globetrotter.net/rc10gt .
Monsterbrad
08-29-2005, 02:48 PM
I did the same with my truck!
I put a Mach in it and changed the grearing around a little.
This makes the truck just about as fast as my buddies LST with the forward only kit.
I'm running stock motor and stock pipe.They might be faster in a straight line.But we aint racein on a drag strip. :rolleyes:
Stock pipe is loud and more useful on a 1/10 vehicle than on a 1/8 monster truck.
Change to stock pipe to a XTM Mammoth pipe and you'll get mmmooooorrrrreee bottom and top ends...
Fantom pipe is a good pipe too and it's very quiet...HPI ribbed and LST's pipe are good pipes too.
Monsterbrad
08-30-2005, 11:16 AM
I have heard that the Jammin pipes are good too but they are kinda pricy!
Ball Racing
08-30-2005, 05:53 PM
A Jammin pipe is only about 69.00, other ofna , and os pipes are LOTS more
The LST pipe is almost that bad...
MikeWz
08-30-2005, 10:48 PM
$69 is about the price you're going to pay for any pipe. What ofna pipes are a lot more than that? The RB version of the Ofna pipes (063 and 086) are a lot more, but they're also a lot better.
Any 1/8th scale pipe will do you better than the stock. It all depends what area of the engines power band you'd like to better (usually the opposite end gets a little worse)
Monsterbrad
08-31-2005, 01:12 AM
Well I have to say that my race truck (hot bodies LSP)
has the stock so called junk pipe on it with my K 4.6 and its pleanty fast enough and reliable too.
I like the Mach 26 with the stock pipe on it also.
Has great power and sounds good!
astainback
08-31-2005, 01:34 AM
I want to apologize for that quadruple post above. My browser was giving me problems, and not showing that the post worked.
I have the 49 tooth spur gear, so I will try that to see if I like it.
Also, I read somewhere or saw a picture of some zip ties on a bumper. I stripped some short screws out of a bumper brace the other day. I just got the stockers in from stormer, and will be adding zip ties too.
One of the things that I am impressed with on this truck is the body. I can't believe that it is still hanging on, still looks OK, and has only cracked around the engine head. I always took the dremel and rounded out cracks to keep them from spreading. After installing the Mach in the truck, I cut the hole out bigger, and it still looks good. I want to get a new one (because I am going to try to start racing) and I can't decide if I should go proline or another stock body. Any recommendations here??
Also, do any of you have the body cut so you can refuel with the body on?
thanks,
adrian
edit : Ok, it was not quadruple, it was posted 5 times... again, sorry... hahaha
Cotharyus
08-31-2005, 07:48 AM
Astainback - yes, my body has been cut to refuel without removing the body from day one. If you're going to race, you basicly have to be able to refuel it. And the zip ties on teh rear bumper were probly pictures of my truck too.....
MikeWz
08-31-2005, 10:45 AM
The crowd pleazer looks really cool. Looks even better with the spoiler, which I actually didn't have mounted in this picture. I can take more if you'd like to see
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/MikeWz/Monster%20GT/DSCF0250.jpg
astainback
08-31-2005, 05:21 PM
Mike, that is awesome!! If you have more... post them!!! I will post one of my truck in a minute.
I would like to see what your cut looks like for refueling with the body on.
thanks,
adrian
astainback
08-31-2005, 07:11 PM
Here is my truck...
http://home.earthlink.net/~astainback/images/Workbench%20Area%20and%20Shelves%207-28-05%20(4).JPG
MikeWz
08-31-2005, 10:32 PM
I'll gladly post up more tomorrow. One of my shock caps is blown so it'll look lopsided, but you'll get the idea. My fuel tank is also tied down because some of the legs broke off from a hard hit, so it wasn't staying on and I don't feel the need to pay for one if this works. I'm in the red as it is, I don't need to shell out more money
Truck looks nice. Zombie's look killer on this truck. I love mine, perfect bashing tire IMO
Monsterbrad
09-01-2005, 01:15 PM
How are the bead lock rims??????
MikeWz
09-01-2005, 03:49 PM
I know this is off topic, but how many of you guys here are interested in NASCAR racing? If so, what about it catches your interest and would make you watch it over other forms of racing?
astainback
09-01-2005, 08:10 PM
How are the bead lock rims??????
The look really nice, but are a little heavier that I expected. Other than that, they are great, and when you are driving trucks that are way overpowered anyway, you can't tell the difference.
astainback
09-01-2005, 08:24 PM
So, any pictures of MGTs with holes cut for fueling??
adrian
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