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Cotharyus
09-02-2005, 07:42 AM
Mike - in response to your NASCAR question. I mean the NASCAR drivers no disrespect. They have proven over and over that they are great drivers when they step into other series. But oval racing bores me. Personally, the only kind of racing I follow is F1.

MikeWz
09-02-2005, 02:31 PM
I feel the same way. I like watching the speed challenge series, whatever the "Le Mans" series is called (can't really find it on Speed, so I only get to see it every know and then) and definitely Formula-1 (although it's getting worse and worse. They're not really races so much anymore).
I just don't see the point of oval. Sure the drivers are great drivers, but there are right hand turns too!

Cotharyus
09-03-2005, 08:54 AM
I think as the F1 regs change over the next few years, you'll see some of the "Racing" return to F1. There's nothing else that can happen when they *make* the teams go back to relying more on mechanical grip, and less on aero grip. It won't hurt anything to get slick tires back either...(2008)

Monsterbrad
09-03-2005, 10:55 AM
NHRA
thats racing!

astainback
09-05-2005, 08:07 AM
Power Strokes or FT bodies and caps??

I can't decide.. and I feel like I need to do something about handling.

adrian

Monsterbrad
09-05-2005, 11:24 AM
Power strokes are good from what I am hearing but I am a traditional kinda guy and I would say go with the factory team stuff.
Less head ache if something goes wrong or you wreck up one side of the truck.
Power strokes are expensive.

skidmark316
09-09-2005, 09:18 PM
I had powerstrokes, and put the stockers back on. There was no obvious
improvement.

slaf
09-09-2005, 09:35 PM
Stock shock are nice.

If you add FT shock caps, this will prevent the shock caps from poping out on hard landing or when you use too thick shock oil. If you add FT bodies + FT caps this will a bullet proof combo but more expensive than PowerStroke shocks (You can find them on EBay for 70$).

I just bought the PowerStroke and I didn't install them yet....As soon as I have a chance, I'll post my feedback.

The only think I can say, it's that the PS are a little bit heavier than the stock shocks...

MikeWz
09-10-2005, 12:04 AM
It's probably worth running the extra weight of the PS shocks though. I can't see how they wouldn't make much difference, with true dual rate it would help a lot on a track or any surface that has a lot of undulations/"whoops". Soft for the first part of the compression then stiff for the rest of it. I will be running those for next season. Could probably get away with running the truck slightly higher than I'm running mine now because I bottom out fairly often. Having a hard time deciding which engine. TTR .28 or the OS .30. The OS would be awesome if I could afford it, but handling comes before power IMO

Monsterbrad
09-10-2005, 02:00 AM
Consider the K 4.6 also with the nova race products cooling head.
I am racing one now and have been all summer and it runs great.
Also I have a Mach in the truck now and it runs great also but the Mach is having problems with the rod breaking from rubbing on the inside of the block or the bearing spinning in the rod.

carcass227
09-10-2005, 07:27 AM
Hey whats up? Had my mgt for a few months now,and love it. This truck is awesome.Done a few mods, shocks, tires,etc. Ive ran approx 4 gal of fuel through it with no major problems (and ive done some serious bashing). 10ft air with about 20 ft of travel off a freshly dumped out load of dirt from a dump truck. Been on the lhs track a couple times but its really too small for big trucks. I got a question? What can i do to improve braking? i have cleaned disk and shoes, sanded them to remove glossy surface, and dialed them as much as i can but still brakes not stopping this thing. any tips would be appreciated. thx

Cotharyus
09-10-2005, 07:42 AM
carcass, I upgraded my brakes to the hardcore shoes and disc, and promptly nosed my truck over onto it's hood. I ended up having to back way off the brakes, and only had to turn them back up just a little once they got "broken in" - they are very strong, and even easy to get "right" if you know how to set up a radio.

carcass227
09-10-2005, 07:56 AM
carcass, I upgraded my brakes to the hardcore shoes and disc, and promptly nosed my truck over onto it's hood. I ended up having to back way off the brakes, and only had to turn them back up just a little once they got "broken in" - they are very strong, and even easy to get "right" if you know how to set up a radio.
Thanks for the input Ill try that too. Have you had problems with turnbuckle ends constantly popping off and if so how did you fix. ive tried the washer trick but that just makes other parts break.

Monsterbrad
09-10-2005, 11:09 AM
Ok the breaks
Mine are still stock and stop the truck just fine!
Check your epa on the radio and maybe adjust them tighter in the truck.
they will fade after a while of running but when they are adjusted they work great stock.
The rod ends....once you pop them off a few times you stretch the plastic enough it will not hold as tight.
Buy some spares and keep them on hand once they pop off more then three times change them out for new ones.
There are other ways of keeping them from popping off but lets face it I would rather replace a couple ends then the rear hub carriers cause they will break and are more expensive if you keep those rod ends tight.
Also has anybody tried the new 28 TT engine???????

Chevy-SS
09-11-2005, 09:07 AM
On my Monster GT's (I have four of them, three running, one for parts) I always install a great steering servo like a 94358 Airtronics, then I move the stock steering servo to the throttle/brake position. The stock steering servo has 111oz of torque compared to the stock brake servo which is about 60oz, so right there you will almost double the amount of force applied to the brake. This really makes the brakes work fabulous. I mean, my trucks will rip off the tires when braking. For good brakes, you need a strong servo, plus you need proper adjustments AND you need to make sure there is absolutely no oil or fuel (which contains oil) on the brake parts. I use automotive spray brake cleaner and it works great.


Regarding the turnbuckle ball ends popping off, this is definitely a weak point on the MGT. I always stress to keep plenty of spares of this part on hand. The outer ones are the ones that take the biggest beating. You can use the small washer trick to stop them popping off, but you lose a little fine steering control once they get loose, which doesn't take long.

I am trying out Monster Ball Ends from Dubro and even though they look way more stout, they are still wearing out kinda quickly. I have not found an easy answer for this problem, other than constant vigilance and replacement.

MGT Racer Tips and Tricks:
http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/

Monsterbrad
09-11-2005, 06:50 PM
This truck is still pretty tough though!
One of the best on the market for durability

carcass227
09-11-2005, 08:34 PM
Is there anything that needs to be done to the tranny or diffs for maintanence, to keep them in top condition, or any mods like different diff lubes and if so what. I havent shimmed my diff yet but thats next. By the way I agree that this is the best truck going, I love it. My freind bought a mammoth st and has had nothing but problems, Its a real POS. I talked into fixing it one more time, selling it, and buying a mgt.The only problem is he wants the new version when it comes out, which will make me have to upgrade as well.

MikeWz
09-12-2005, 01:31 AM
Other than shimming the diffs, there's no "necessary" driveline upgrades, especially if it's stock. The tranny is pretty stout, and once you shim the diffs they'll last forever. If you want a bit more steering fill the rear diff with 10K weight oil to replace the grease it comes with.
Also, if you drop a bigger motor in there, be prepared to get at least some MIP Center CVDs. The hole for the pin will gradually get long and longer with the stock CVDs

slaf
09-12-2005, 06:43 AM
Carcass -> No special maintenance for the tranny. I still running/racing mine since day 1 and after 8 gallons the tranny is A1. For the diffs you can shim them id they need to be shimmed. Once again, 8 gallons and both diffs are #1 and they don't need to be shimmed. I replace stock grease with 10k diff oil in the rear diff.

For the brake, replace the spring on the brake lever with fuel tubing of the same lenght. You can also get a stonger servo.

Turnbuckles are a weak point on the MGT. They wear quickly and then pop off the ball. You can install a small wahser to prevent them from poping off but this will not prevent them from wearing and being loose which will randomly change your toe in/out while running. I inspect the turnbuckles often and I have a bunch of ends in my toolbox. It takes only few minutes to change.

Cotharyus
09-12-2005, 07:31 AM
Actually, I failed to ever comment on this, so I'll weigh in on it now. As far as the linkage ends popping off, I had some trouble with the stock stuff like everyone else. When I went on the warpath to lighten it up a little I upgraded to this Lunsford kit:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGDZ7&P=7

Since then, I have not had a single problem with linkages coming off. Interesting. I hadn't even thought about it until reading this.

Monsterbrad
09-12-2005, 07:45 AM
60 bucks
holy cow
but if it keeps the truck together during extreme stuff then it's worth it.

skidmark316
09-12-2005, 08:01 AM
Yeah, how do the ends hold up? You said they don't pop off, but do they
get loose?

MikeWz
09-12-2005, 08:09 AM
Gotta be a PITA to adjust with that wrench the way these arms are set-up. Would take forever. Gotta be easier on the fingers though. I wonder if you can buy the ballstuds and the rod-ends from that kit and throw them on the FT turnbuckles.

Chevy-SS
09-12-2005, 08:30 AM
Shim the diffs, this is a must-do. Keep checking them and shim them again if they feel loose or if you hear clicking. This page has step-by-step diff shim instructions, look at the section titled "Quick and Easy Diff Shim":
http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/transmission.htm

Chevy-SS
09-12-2005, 08:35 AM
Actually, I failed to ever comment on this, so I'll weigh in on it now. As far as the linkage ends popping off, I had some trouble with the stock stuff like everyone else. When I went on the warpath to lighten it up a little I upgraded to this Lunsford kit:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGDZ7&P=7

Since then, I have not had a single problem with linkages coming off. Interesting. I hadn't even thought about it until reading this.

Coth, did these ends loosen up on you? I looked at this kit a while back, but decided to try the Dubro Monster Ball ends. I mean, look at the Dubro ends and you'll see how stout they look, but they still loosened up:
Dubro ends: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJGU1&P=7

skidmark316
09-12-2005, 08:38 AM
I bought the lunsford ends just for a look-see, they don't fit on the stock
turnbuckles, so they won't fit on the FT's either. I have been avoiding buying
the entire lunsford kit because you can't put a washer at the end of their balls,
and I want 0% chance of them popping off during racing. So I bought some ends to see if the ofna 7mm balls fit, they fit perfectly, and you can put a washer behind them. If the lunsford ends prove to be durable, then it's worth it as I'm wasting money now buying packs and packs of stock ends.

BTW, the ofna balls are part# 36850

Monsterbrad
09-12-2005, 06:52 PM
My poor truck is suffering the Mach con rod blues!
This has been a **** summer for my basher trucks
the race truck has done well
the LST and the MGT and the 18t have suffered problems that are outa my control engine's blowing up and motors burning up and more Mach's losing there rods and rod bearings.
Oh well
Here is a question for you guys?????????????????????????
What is a good all around reliable monster truck engine that won't break the bank and is not the Mach??????????????????????????????????????????????

fuzzy2133
09-13-2005, 12:20 AM
skidmark316 - did you try using a longer screw to go through the ball end? just currious if there was not enough room to do so.

MikeWz
09-13-2005, 12:54 AM
Why don't you give that new TTR. 28 a shot. It's under $200, and I can guarntee you that it's at least as reliable as the TTR .21 the MGT came with. Or, you can wait a bit and snag that OS .30 that's due to come out this month

astainback
09-13-2005, 03:28 AM
I run the Mach in my truck and love it so far.

If I were to pick out another engine right now.. I would go with the Picco .27. I have no experience with it, but I have not read one bad thing about it.

Also, did anyone ever get around to taking any pictures of how they cut the stock body for fueling with the body on??

I want to do this cut this week for the weekend. (or next weekend...)

Also, I have another MGT on the way that I got off of the buy/sell/trade forum for 200. I don't know if any of you caught that post, but man, was it a good deal.

Please let me know about the body cuts.

Adrian

slaf
09-13-2005, 06:29 AM
Why don't you give that new TTR. 28 a shot. It's under $200, and I can guarntee you that it's at least as reliable as the TTR .21 the MGT came with. Or, you can wait a bit and snag that OS .30 that's due to come out this month

How you know and guarantee that the new TTR 28 is as reliable as the TTR 21 ???

Cotharyus
09-13-2005, 07:43 AM
These ends haven't loosened up yet. You have to understand, looking at these things doesn't quite do justice to them. They are not even close to symetrical, they have a top and bottom, and you actually *need* plyers to get them on the first time (only time?) because of the way they fit. Maybe I can manage some good pictures of them...

Cotharyus
09-13-2005, 07:44 AM
I run the Mach in my truck and love it so far.

If I were to pick out another engine right now.. I would go with the Picco .27. I have no experience with it, but I have not read one bad thing about it.


Adrian

No offense, but if you haven't read anything bad about the picco .27 you haven't read much about it. There seems(ed?) to have been a serious issue with the pullstarts on them, although apparently they do run very well. I'm personally holding out for the OS .30 at this point.

slaf
09-13-2005, 08:18 AM
If Picco 27 are like the Picco 26, you'll need few oneway bearings in your toolbox...

Since my Picco 26 died, I also want a new engine and I'm waiting for the OS .30 too but I'm a bit afraid because this engine will produce alot of power and sometimes too much power is worst than not enough....And this mean more maintenance on the drivetrain and parts will wear faster....

skidmark316
09-13-2005, 08:49 AM
skidmark316 - did you try using a longer screw to go through the ball end? just currious if there was not enough room to do so.
The lunsford doesn't use a screw, it's a ball/stud. That's why you can't put
a washer on there.
OK, I said screw it and ordered the lunsford kit. There's no way the ends
will wear out quicker than the stock ones, and the lunsford ends are fairly
cheap. So I went for it.

skidmark316
09-13-2005, 09:11 AM
I run the Mach in my truck and love it so far.

If I were to pick out another engine right now.. I would go with the Picco .27. I have no experience with it, but I have not read one bad thing about it.

Also, did anyone ever get around to taking any pictures of how they cut the stock body for fueling with the body on??

I want to do this cut this week for the weekend. (or next weekend...)

Also, I have another MGT on the way that I got off of the buy/sell/trade forum for 200. I don't know if any of you caught that post, but man, was it a good deal.

Please let me know about the body cuts.

Adrian

I had 2 mach .26s die on me before 1 gallon, and I'll never buy another one.
I have a picco .27, and have read that they have one-way bearing problems,
but mine is still good. I loosened the glow plug before starting it until it was broken in, because the one-ways seem to crack most during break in when the engine is real tight. I recently put the .27 back in my MGT after I figured out how to use the insane power it has at the track. It has the TTR .21 carb on it too.

Body cutouts? Here's one way to do it. Pull on the tie wrap to open the fuel cap:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y168/skidmark316/fuelaccess.jpg

MikeWz
09-13-2005, 09:51 AM
I just cut out the entire side window. It's hard to really get much of anything in there, which was my worry when I first did it (tire kicking up stuff in there), but it seems to be okay. Should cut out a square in the windshield on the drivers side. I'm pretty sure you're allowed up to do that up to a certain size if you're gonna race, and if you're not racing then go at it

skidmark316
09-13-2005, 01:16 PM
That's my kids truck, my truck's tank is lowered and moved forward. I don't
cut the entire window out because there is the possibility of the roof ripping off if it flips and the ground catches the opening. But with the tank lid being opened with the tie wrap, you don't need that big of a hole because just the fuel bottle spout is going in there.

Monsterbrad
09-13-2005, 05:36 PM
Cutting too much outa the body also makes the body weaker.
But then again the stocl MGT body is a great body I am still using it after lots of abuse including last winter.

skidmark316
09-13-2005, 06:28 PM
These ends haven't loosened up yet. You have to understand, looking at these things doesn't quite do justice to them. They are not even close to symetrical, they have a top and bottom, and you actually *need* plyers to get them on the first time (only time?) because of the way they fit. Maybe I can manage some good pictures of them...

I took some pics with the ofna 7mm ball in there. You can see the ball offset
in the first pic.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y168/skidmark316/ballend1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y168/skidmark316/ballend2.jpg

carcass227
09-13-2005, 06:52 PM
Hey guys thanks for the helpful tips.Gonna work on them this week. Get this, I stopped at GPA hobbies in Crofton MD on my way home frome baltimore today to get some misc. MGT parts. After browsing for five min. someone asked if I needed help. I asked if they carry MGT parts because i didnt see any. This kid behind the counter said NO. I shockingly asked why not and he rudely replied that I was the only person to ask for MGT parts in the last year. He didnt even ask if i needed to order anything or tell me where I could go to get any parts. Whats going on here? Is the MGT becoming unpopular, or is it just because the MGT is the best truck in town? whichever the case I say boycott GPA hobbies.

carcass227
09-13-2005, 07:46 PM
Well I just got finished taking out and apart my front and rear diffs,and I can see why it would be better to replace the diff grease with diff fluid. Its because the is none. Well maybe a little but not enough. There were dry spots in the diffs. Whats the best way to remove the grease, and how much silicone diff fluid do you add? As much as it will hold? Also can certain silicone shock fluids replace diff fluids and if so which weights equal which weights? Any reply would be appreciated.

fuzzy2133
09-13-2005, 11:01 PM
I used some nitro engine cleaner to clean the grease off. I only filled my diff's between 1/2 and 3/4 full.

shock oil would be a little pointless since it would only slow diff action a very little bit. don't get me wrong it still would keep the spider gears lubed. if I remember right stock grease is equal to 10,000 weight. as for what weight for your driving style that is where I am lost.

metalry101
09-13-2005, 11:04 PM
No offense, but if you haven't read anything bad about the picco .27 you haven't read much about it. There seems(ed?) to have been a serious issue with the pullstarts on them, although apparently they do run very well. I'm personally holding out for the OS .30 at this point.
There are no issues with pull-starts on these engines. Same thing with the one-way bearing. The older Picco .26's had weak one-ways, but they've since stregthened the housing and fixed the problem. How do I know this? Well...for one, I've heard from a rep for the company that makes the motor, and two, I used to sell quite a few pull-starts and one-ways to customers with the Picco .26. Since the .27 came out, I've sold dozens (I run one myself as well), and I sell fewer pull-starts and one-ways for it than any other motor I sell anymore. I see more problems with the one-ways in the HPI .25's (probably not due to the bearing design as much as it is due to the Roto-start and its violent nature), and I sell more pull-starts for the HPI K4.6 than any other motor, easily, though I haven't had any problems with my 4.6's pull-start yet.

Honestly, the motors I see the most problems with are the Traxxas 2.5 and the HPI K4.6. The 2.5 is insanely picky about needle settings, and tends to run hot (and as such wear out quickly), but the components all seem to be quite well engineered and produced. The K4.6 is fairly picky about needle settings, as far as big blocks go anyways, and the carb is junk. Some people have problems with pull-starts, but generally these are the same idiots who have problems keeping their Savage in one piece, despite the fact that it's damn near indestructable. I've seen a fair amount of problems with the carb on the 4.6...and had trouble with it on mine. My carb is actually seized. I can't move it even with pliers and such. I think the carb is the worst part of the motor, as the rest of it seems to be quite solid, and the carb isn't that terrible...it's just not as good as the carbs of other motors in that price range (like the Picco for example).

metalry101
09-13-2005, 11:06 PM
I used some nitro engine cleaner to clean the grease off. I only filled my diff's between 1/2 and 3/4 full.

shock oil would be a little pointless since it would only slow diff action a very little bit. don't get me wrong it still would keep the spider gears lubed. if I remember right stock grease is equal to 10,000 weight. as for what weight for your driving style that is where I am lost.
I fill my diffs up completely.

As for the tuning thing...I run very thick oil in the rear diff because I prefer oversteer to understeer.

slaf
09-13-2005, 11:15 PM
I fill my diff until 1-2mm of the top.

For the diff oil....Thicker the rear diff oil is, the more oversteer you will have. Stock grease is the same as 10000WT oil but grease will stick on the diff cup and not act as oil at all.

I raced with stock grease in front and 10000WT oil in the rear diff. I'll probaly go with 10000WT in front and 30000wt rear...

Monsterbrad
09-13-2005, 11:32 PM
remember the heavier the oil in the rear the more push you will have when it comes to turning.
I run 50,000 wt in the front and open or 10,000 wt in the rear for bashing.
There has been alot of arguments about how to set up certian vehicles for racing and bashing.
I hate it when one wheel spins freely and one tire balloons up really big so I stop it with heavier diff fluid.
Then again my race truggy is set up with 50,000 in the front and 120,000 in the center and 10,000 in the rear.
I have my LST set up with 120,000 in the front and 50,000 in the rear.
My MGT is still open but it will get the same treatment as the LST when the new engine gets back to me.

Cotharyus
09-14-2005, 07:53 AM
metalry101 - I had forgotten you worked in a hobby store - thanks for setting things straight there. I had spoken with one person that had an early run of the .27's and expressed the opinion that they had the same problem as the .26 did with the one way's, but otherwise were good engines. In addition to that, I had seen several other complaints about it, but all were also early runs of the engine. Perhaps they have it sorted out at this point, as it certainly sounds like they do. I will say, one of the hottest engines I ever put in my 1/10 scale was a picco .15. Maybe the .27 is worth a second look?

slaf
09-14-2005, 09:51 AM
I had few problems with oneway bearings on my Picco 26 but I noticed than oneway bearings don't like fuel with higher oil content or castor oil...

metalry101
09-14-2005, 12:31 PM
I had few problems with oneway bearings on my Picco 26 but I noticed than oneway bearings don't like fuel with higher oil content or castor oil...
I don't know about the fuel thing...but the one-way problem on the old Picco .26 is quite common, and yes, Coth, I do believe you're correct that the first shipments of the .27 still used the older, weaker one-way. They have now fixed the problem though, because I can't remember the last time I sold a one-way to someone with a .27, whereas I used to sell a few a day to people with .26's.

Cotharyus
09-15-2005, 07:47 AM
Outstanding information Metalry - Thank you :)

Monsterbrad
09-15-2005, 08:50 AM
I hope that the new 28 will be a good engine.
The original TT 21 is a great engine just does not have enough power.
Anybody heard when they are going to release the new engine alone????????

Tyrael1986
09-15-2005, 12:31 PM
I hope that the new 28 will be a good engine.
The original TT 21 is a great engine just does not have enough power.
Anybody heard when they are going to release the new engine alone????????
on towerhobbies it shows the engine as mid September, but you can never be to sure with them on the listed release dates. but its better than a guess.

Monsterbrad
09-15-2005, 01:24 PM
I'll check it out.
I have the K 4.6 engine and I am very pleased with it so far after a season of racing with it and KandBracetrack.com :D

Tyrael1986
09-16-2005, 01:33 PM
Well, once my friend pays me the money he owes me I should be getting a MGT. my question is:

What do I need to do it to make it last, and run really good?

what kind of mods should i do to it? what should i buy for the engine? that kind of stuff.

-and-

When I order the RTR kit, what other things should I buy for it aswell?

extra glow plugs? do I need a glow plug starter? do I need a fuel bottle? basically saying, What do I need to make the RTR a RTR? because from what ive read im still going to need things for it.

MikeWz
09-16-2005, 03:34 PM
Have you not ever had a non traxxas RTR before? There are no "necessary" mods for this truck. The Forward Only is a good one, though. Gives you some extra punch off the line and some better steering too. Unplug the battery connector from the RX and plug it into the "Aux" channel. This bypasses the BEC limiter and allows more voltage to the servos and gives you better steering and braking.
As for what you need when you buy it. Order at least 2 glow-plugs (OS #8's are good) because you'll go through at least one during break-in. If you don't have a glow starter already you're going to need one. If you get one that uses normal C/D batteries, make sure you bring a bunch of them with you because you only get like 4 starts with them. It's not a bad idea to buy a rechargeable one and a regular C/D battery one and bring them both, just incase the rechargeable one dies while you're out. Fuel bottle is a nice thing too. You're not gonna want to try to pour into the fuel tank out of the gallon bottle, or any bottle without some kind of spout like that or your truck is going to get awfully dirty. That's really about it

Monsterbrad
09-16-2005, 04:04 PM
You can also get a 1-1/2 volt hobby battery with the glow starter with the cord they last a long time and don't require charging all the time.
Just go easy on the break in too.
THe 21 engine that it comes with is good and reliable but lacks power just a little.
The stock servo's are a little crappy also and you will have to replace them as they stop working.
Mine may have not lasted as long cause this is my beater truck and the cold weather was hard on it but the snow is fun to run in. :)
if you have any other issues just ask all us guys on here are very helpfull

Tyrael1986
09-16-2005, 04:28 PM
The SE version of the truck comes with a .28 engine. I'm not planning on doing the FOC to it because its just going to be a basher truck, i doubt i will ever race it.

I read a article in RCCA about how to build a on-board glow starter with a alligator clip, a small switch and a C battery. i was planning on doing that with the truck. will that work?

Basically i'm just making myself a list of things to order so when I order the truck I have everything I need at my disposal. over time I will probably get Integy shocks and RPM A-arms but that will be later (after i broke the first ones).

metalry101
09-17-2005, 01:37 AM
I read a article in RCCA about how to build a on-board glow starter with a alligator clip, a small switch and a C battery. i was planning on doing that with the truck. will that work?

Basically i'm just making myself a list of things to order so when I order the truck I have everything I need at my disposal. over time I will probably get Integy shocks and RPM A-arms but that will be later (after i broke the first ones).

Don't bother with the magazine glow plug thing.

Buy this, (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL368&P=ML) and this. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVJ49&P=M)

Don't bother with one of the ignitors that uses an alkaline battery either. They're garbage. Seriously, garbage. If you want something a little more compact and portable, buy this. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXME72&P=ML)

Those are exactly the two I have, and I've never had any problems with either, ever.

You'll also need this. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJKF0&P=ML)

This (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZV25&P=7) is the fuel you'll want. Buy 4 of these or so.

Other than that, you'll need a few of these. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRA02&P=M)

That should be everything you need other than AA's.

MikeWz
09-17-2005, 03:00 AM
Metalry - Don't be bashing on the alkaline ones. You ever spend a day at a track that didn't have an outlet....or possibly a day at a construction site? I've spent a few like that, and there are those times you run out of the house and forget that the glow starter hasn't been charged after the last few times of use, or perhaps there's a day that the engine isn't running totally right and you've gotta restart it a bunch. If it dies, you're dead. End of bashing day. The alkaline ones are great for that. Always keep an extra alk and starter in the box and you'll never have to worry about it. Just a safety

metalry101
09-17-2005, 10:42 AM
Ya, but like you said, they don't last very long. TBH, I've never, ever had my rechargable one die on me. I've used it it a ton for a month, left it laying around for another month, picked it up, put it on the truck, and it fired right up. It didn't even have any side effects from sitting around useless for like 6 months or 8 months or however long it was between when I got rid of my Mammoth and got my MGT. Seriously...the rechargable ones (especially that Hot Shot 2) are the best out there IMO.

But, like you said, they can die, and for that I have the lantern-style battery one. I've got a coworker who used to race on-road religiously, so the thing got used all time time, and a lot of the time he didn't even bother unclipping the leads between races. The thing still works today, 2+ years after he bought it. That's also what we use in the shop most of the time too since they provide great voltage (really lights up that glow plug well...helps stubborn engines to start sometimes).

To each his own, but I don't care for the alkaline ones. They're bulky and cheaply made for the most part, and all of the ones I've seen or used have that slide/capture thing for the glow plug. That works, but personally I'm a big fan of the "Twist and lock" setup. If I had to have an alkaline one though, I'd probably find that one that takes AA's. I think they made one that can take alkaline AA's anyways. Maybe it was a rechargable? I can't remember...but if they make one that can take a single alkaline AA, that'd be my choice, as it's very slim and compact.

Monsterbrad
09-17-2005, 11:30 PM
I like the 1-1/2 volt battery and the glow stick that goes with that.
They last a long time and don't give any proplems.
Just remember keep the end that touches the glow plug clean all the time it helps and will make the glow ignitor last alot longer.
I clean mine all the time.
I have my battery 1-1/2 volt one and a extra regular c alkaline one on me at all times when I am out or at the track just to make sure I have glow power.
The ones that run on C batteries do not last that long like what was mentioned earlier.

carcass227
09-18-2005, 11:23 AM
I was at the lhs track this morning, and was really ripping up the track. I was running a set of proline bowties on tmaxx size rims.I just got them off ebay real cheap. Seemed to not have top end speed though. I also broke the two-speed shaft in the tranny. Im still running the stock motor and gear ratio. Should I change the gear ratio being that i went down in tire size, and if so any suggestions? I havent switched to a bigger motor yet only because I havent had any problems with stocker. Besides the lhs track is not very big and anything faster would be uncontrolable. Or instead of the gear ratio is it possibly that those wheels are to small? thanks

metalry101
09-18-2005, 12:02 PM
Those wheels and tires are probably perfect for the track. Shorter tires means your truck sits lower. That lowers the CG, but even better than that, it lowers the weight. As for your gearing, yes, you do need to change it. The shorter tires have effectively changed your final drive ratio, making it much, much shorter. The actual drive ratio is still the same, but since the truck doesn't travel as far as it once did for each revolution of the tires, it's effectively shortened. I'd try a 17 tooth clutchbell to start off with. You might even need a 49 tooth spur.

Monsterbrad
09-18-2005, 09:49 PM
I had to re gear after the Mach installation and let me tell you the gearing realy makes a huge difference.
My truck will run with an LST.

badboy2
09-18-2005, 09:53 PM
so what gearing do u have now?i have 18/52 is that good?

slaf
09-18-2005, 09:55 PM
I run/race 17/49 with Proline Maxx size Bowties + FOC + stock .21 and I don't have any difficulties with LST and Savage .28...

slaf
09-18-2005, 09:56 PM
If you race, set your gearing to reach top speed and RPM at 90% of the longest straight of your track...It's a good starting point...

MikeWz
09-19-2005, 11:22 AM
If your track is on the short side you should probably run stock clutch bell and run a 50 tooth spur. That's what I run on mine now because my LHS track isn't huge either. It's kinda between a 1/10th ST and 1/8th track. I'm just shy of hitting absolute top-end at the end of the straight, yet enough accel to really jump out of the corners

Monsterbrad
09-19-2005, 06:15 PM
I run 17/49 and the truck rips with the Mach in it!
I just hope the new engine will hold together the last three have not.
But it is fast with revo wheels and tires on it also :D

badboy2
09-21-2005, 12:42 PM
i wanan put a wing on mine i heard new era shock towers will work but i think its too much $ for me..any cheap mods i can do to mount a wing?

Tyrael1986
09-21-2005, 01:41 PM
Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer bodies have a wing that mounts to the body if i'm not mistaken... plus the body looks good so its even a plus :)

Monsterbrad
09-21-2005, 05:53 PM
I have the crowd pleazer on my trucks and its a great body cause it's thicker then the stock one even though the stocker is still going after 2 motors and a winter.
Also the wing does mount on the back of the body Ty you are correct.

Tyrael1986
09-21-2005, 07:15 PM
Towerhobbies lists the MGT 4.6SE as "In Stock" with limited quantities. Has anyone ordered one? I want to know the differences from the old one in comparison to the new one. I NEED one of these trucks! Does anyone have a good recommendation for a fuel type/brand to run in the new .28 engine?

fuzzy2133
09-21-2005, 07:42 PM
i wanan put a wing on mine i heard new era shock towers will work but i think its too much $ for me..any cheap mods i can do to mount a wing?

BRP sells lexan wings for MT's and regular trucks

some at Tower Hobbies (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=BRP&FVPROFIL=++)

Monsterbrad
09-21-2005, 09:42 PM
The new truck has the .28 and all steel gears in the tranny.
I am thinking about one myself and using the one I have now as a complete beater.
Just too see how tough it really is! :D

MikeWz
09-22-2005, 09:09 AM
I'm probably gonna snag the new one shortly after it comes out. Put the OS .30 in that and use the TTR .28 in the race truck. I don't wanna win races on power alone, that's stupid

slaf
09-22-2005, 09:20 AM
I'm probably gonna snag the new one shortly after it comes out. Put the OS .30 in that and use the TTR .28 in the race truck. I don't wanna win races on power alone, that's stupid


Same thing for me...I should receive the engine tomorrow and I'll drop it in my MGT. I just have to change the clutch bell....

MikeWz
09-22-2005, 06:28 PM
Awesome, let us know how it goes. If you've got an extra in like....2 weeks or so I'd be interested in snagging one from you. Especially if you've got the whole truck. Wouldn't really need the radio though

metalry101
09-22-2005, 06:33 PM
I'm hoping to have enough money to pick one of the new ones up by Christmas. I have to finish paying for my E-Zilla, and then get my TNX Pro. After that, I think I want a 4.60 MGT.

Monsterbrad
09-22-2005, 07:56 PM
Metal buy one you will like it
with the new power plant this truck will be fun outa the box
like I said makes me wanna try one :D

slaf
09-23-2005, 09:10 AM
Got the truck this morning....But I'm at work....I'll have to wait until tonight to install to .28 in my racer MGT....Plus it's raining here today :( :(

MikeWz
09-23-2005, 03:04 PM
Let me know when you've got an extra one on your hands. I should be getting a hefty paycheck this coming up week ;)

skidmark316
09-23-2005, 10:43 PM
Nova cooling head on my picco .27

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y168/skidmark316/coolhead.jpg

MikeWz
09-24-2005, 12:31 AM
Looks nice, just be aware. You can't actually make it leaner because the temps drop when adding the head.

rc10bob
09-24-2005, 01:34 AM
Hi guys, have a big question,I do monster truck dirt oval racing. I am looking for a very fast engine. I am now running a wasp 26, I was running picco 26 had worked on the two engines by RB Mods my question is I am thinking o0f buying (Nova Ross 28) or (RB 28) or (Sirio 27) don't know which one. if anybody has any experience with these engine i woild appreciate any help. Second question, there is a EB Mods that work on engine wondering if anybody has anything to say about him he is a lot closer. Thank You

metalry101
09-24-2005, 02:06 AM
If you're looking for top speed rather than tons of torque, you might check out some buggy racing engines. They Hyper 8 port is a solid engine, and it'd be pretty fast in a monster I would think.

I don't know much about the Novarossi .28's. I've heard good things about them, but they're pricey, and I don't know if they rev that well. The Sirio is super pricey, but dear God does it run. Everyone I've ever talked to who's had a Sirio has said they can't find anything that can even come close. They're pricey, they're hard to tune, and pull starts and one-ways are ludicrously expensive, but if you've gotta have the fastest engine on the market, I think the Sirio .27 is the one to have. At least until the new O.S. .30 comes out. I think that's going to own all. I'm hoping the shop I work at gets one of the ones in the first batch, because if we do, I'll be buying it and testing it out.

Monsterbrad
09-24-2005, 03:00 AM
the novarossi 528x is a rippin engine!

MikeWz
09-24-2005, 08:46 AM
The sirio .27 pro would be the one to get. It's the 7-port version of the engine so it'll rip on the top. It doesn't quite have as much torqe as the other two, but on an oval track that's not really important

Monsterbrad
09-24-2005, 11:08 AM
The sirio engine makes power about half way through the power band then pulls like crazy to red line!
It's cool but I would rather have the hit off the line to red line.
All depends on what you are going to do with it too

carcass227
09-24-2005, 12:48 PM
I just got a second mgt off ebay. its got an orion wasp .26 engine. went to team orion website to download manual for it but they dont offer it. any suggestions?

slaf
09-24-2005, 01:08 PM
Get the Ofna/Picco 26 outlaw manual at www.ofna.com

rc10bob
09-24-2005, 01:16 PM
I thank every body for getting back to me. I do run a mgt. And I think I will try the sirio 27, truck is running good right now. Nothing passes it but it doesn't pull away from the other trucks, that's why I was thinking of those engines. So thanks everybody for getting back. It does help. I will let you know how it worked out.

MikeWz
09-24-2005, 03:56 PM
This is the version you'll want for the extreme mid-top pull
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEPH8&P=7

carcass227
09-24-2005, 08:11 PM
thanx slaf, that really helped alot.

Monsterbrad
09-25-2005, 12:29 AM
I would like to know how the new TT 28 runs
I have the HPI 28 and it rips pretty good just wonder if the new TT engine will have the power that the Mach and the HPI motor do as well as the rest of the 25-28's have.

carcass227
09-25-2005, 04:27 PM
Just got home from the track. Trucks running great, one problem, when Im going over the small doubles and tripples, the front end keeps wanting to nose down even if I give it throttle. Brakes arent hanging up. I did replace the rear diff grease with 5000wt fluid but not the front. Gear ratio is perfect for this track, thanx for the input. Now if I could keep the nose up, id be in better shape. any suggestions?

metalry101
09-25-2005, 05:53 PM
Just got home from the track. Trucks running great, one problem, when Im going over the small doubles and tripples, the front end keeps wanting to nose down even if I give it throttle. Brakes arent hanging up. I did replace the rear diff grease with 5000wt fluid but not the front. Gear ratio is perfect for this track, thanx for the input. Now if I could keep the nose up, id be in better shape. any suggestions?
Stiffer springs and/or thicker oil?

carcass227
09-25-2005, 06:12 PM
Im running red springs all the way around with 90wt in the shocks. Im using integy piggybacks.

TNN
09-25-2005, 08:44 PM
You need to stay on the throtle through the air.The truck shouldn't flip over long as you keep on the throttle.But you don't have to go full throttle.IF you don't use a rear spoiler that will help to.But the spoiler will make it nose up to much on the big jumps.Are you still useing the stock wheels?

Monsterbrad
09-25-2005, 08:47 PM
They had the new 4.6 at the hobby shop today!
Almost came home with it!
have to break in the new Mach i just got from horizon and hopeflly this one will last cause its a blast in the MGT
anybody get the new truck yet????

slaf
09-25-2005, 09:08 PM
I'm on tank #10 on the TTR 28.... :)

MikeWz
09-26-2005, 01:32 AM
How's the break-in working out? You should be pretty much done by now

slaf
09-26-2005, 06:52 AM
Breakin was perfect, the engine has a lot of pinch and I had to loosen the glow plug to start the engine.

I keep temp in the 250F and the engine has a lot of power...Carb keeps his setting perfectly. Even if breakin is completed, I can feel the engine getting more power at everytank. I guess this is the kind of engine that it's completely brokein after 1-2 quarter...If not more...

I read somewhere that this engine has 2.4HP but I really doubt those numbers cause for now, the TTR 28 is more powerful than my older Picco 26...

MikeWz
09-26-2005, 10:45 AM
Did you ever run the Picco .27? If so, how does it compare to that.
Don't worry, you probably won't have "peak power" untill after about a gallon. That seems to be the most popular point for engines unleashing it all. Does it run just as reliably as the stock engine (I'm sure it just, just making sure) and I'm assuming it holds its tune as well too

slaf
09-26-2005, 11:10 AM
MikeWz -> I never ran or never saw a Picco 27 running.

For now, the new TTR .28 engine is as reliable as the .21 and it keeps his settings as well too. But you must keep in mind that it's almost automn here...A day it's 18C and another it's 10C but engine still running fine without touching the needles....

carcass227
09-26-2005, 03:57 PM
No im not using the stock wheels. Im using deep offset tmaxx size rims with proline bowties. And yes i am full throtle off the jumps but still the front noses down.

slaf
09-26-2005, 03:58 PM
No im not using the stock wheels. Im using deep offset tmaxx size rims with proline bowties. And yes i am full throtle off the jumps but still the front noses down.


What's your shock setup ??? Looks like rear shock are too stiff...

carcass227
09-26-2005, 05:44 PM
rear shocks; outside hole on bottom a arm, red springs, 90wt oil, integy piggy back shocks, colar threaded all the way up.

Monsterbrad
09-26-2005, 05:58 PM
so will the truck wheelie with the new tt 28 in there now ?????
I just wonder how it would run against the HPI 28
thats a pretty good engine too I have one and raced it all summer lots of torque but not that much rpm

MikeWz
09-26-2005, 09:23 PM
How does that compare to your fronts? I know that the integy shocks need heavier oil, so that actually sounds like it's okay. It's very possible you have a slight amount of brake drag. Try trimming the brakes back just a little bit and see if that helps at all

slaf
09-26-2005, 09:36 PM
so will the truck wheelie with the new tt 28 in there now ?????
I just wonder how it would run against the HPI 28
thats a pretty good engine too I have one and raced it all summer lots of torque but not that much rpm

I can't tell for the wheelies, my MGT is more a racer than a basher but I can tell you that the TTR 28 performances are like Picco 26. You can do wheelies with a "wheelie" setup.

carcass227
09-27-2005, 01:54 PM
How does that compare to your fronts? I know that the integy shocks need heavier oil, so that actually sounds like it's okay. It's very possible you have a slight amount of brake drag. Try trimming the brakes back just a little bit and see if that helps at all


All four shocks are set up the same way; red springs and 90wt oil. I checked all the shocks for leaks and filled them. Not to much ( no rebound). As for the brakes, they seem to be fine, if I set the truck up with the wheels off the table, give it throtle, and let off the wheels keep spinning.

Monsterbrad
09-28-2005, 06:16 PM
as for the shocks I have heard that they are not that great of a shock the integy ones and there aluminum is softer then puddy.
THe brake thing don't run the truck just set it on a block and spin the wheels with the radio on.
It should spin freely

MikeWz
09-28-2005, 11:25 PM
You heard wrong Brad. I had the MSR4s for a while, and was going to get the MSR5s untill I decided to race. The extra weight is a lot, and not really worth it. They are great shocks though, you just have to use heavier weight oil than nomral, which most people don't realize. They then get aggrivated, don't really bother to ask, and post on the forums and say "OMG THESE SHOCKS SUCKS I'M SO MAD WAH WAH WAH"

metalry101
09-28-2005, 11:33 PM
You heard wrong Brad. I had the MSR4s for a while, and was going to get the MSR5s untill I decided to race. The extra weight is a lot, and not really worth it. They are great shocks though, you just have to use heavier weight oil than nomral, which most people don't realize. They then get aggrivated, don't really bother to ask, and post on the forums and say "OMG THESE SHOCKS SUCKS I'M SO MAD WAH WAH WAH"
Agreed. I've had the MSR4's on my E-Maxx for 3 years now. They're great. Most of Integy's products are cheap, but they do make a damn fine shock.

MikeWz
09-29-2005, 05:02 AM
That they do. Leave it to somebody who works in a Hobby shop to know what he's talking about :cool:. I'm not a huge fan of most of their other products, or their customer "support", but I do love their shocks. When I get the 4.6 I just may get a set of MSR5s to put on there. I figure the OS 30 can handle the extra weight

carcass227
09-29-2005, 03:31 PM
I have had the MSR5s on my mgt for about 3 mos. now and I think their great. Definately better than stock. They are alot more responsive and handle big airs with ease. One downfall is the cap on the piggyback, its about 1/6 thick and they give you this little stamped out wrench to take it off and on. It would have been better if it was knurled like on the MSR4s. But a great shock system none the less. Started break in on my buddies 4.6 last night, cant wait to buy the motor and slap it in my mgt. seems like its gona be pretty stong.

HIRISK
09-29-2005, 07:57 PM
Hi All,

Well, this is my first post as an MGT owner. Damn, finally I have myself one of these beasts!!

Anyways, here are the specs on my new truck...

Proline 23mm Hubs
Proline 40 series bowties on white wabash rims
Proline Powerstroke shocks
Side manifold and XTM tuned pipe
FOC
Proline Crowd Pleazer body
Team Orion 1300 receiver pack

Now, the question I have for all you MGT experts is...

Should I keep the Proline Wabash Rims or not??

My concern is that as they are designed for the Revo, they have an offset of 1 inch less than standard, which means my total track width is reduced.

I was thinking of selling these and getting some new 40 Series Cheyenne Weld Wheels with Moabs.

Any thoughts on this guys?

Thanks in advance.
Shaun.

Oh, here are some photos...
(not very good.....will get some better ones)
http://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/Revolution/mta_002.jpg

http://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/Revolution/mta_003.jpg

http://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/Revolution/mta_004.jpg

http://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/Revolution/mta_005.jpg

MikeWz
09-29-2005, 10:23 PM
Welcome! It's an awesome truck and you'll love it. Great tips from great guys here. Don't keep those rims. Not only will they make the truck slightly less stable being 2" total less track width, but that'll also reduce your turning radius, which needs help to begin with. Get some Widemaxx rims from proline (they make them in a few styles), and check here:
http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/maxsteering.htm
for info on how to grind your steering knuckles to get the best turning radius you can

HIRISK
09-29-2005, 10:50 PM
Hi,

Thanks for the advice. Thats what I was thinking. I don't unbderstand why the previous owner would have decided on the Wabash?!

I would like to keep the 23mm hubs though, so maybe I should consider the 40 series velocitys with 23mm hubs.

Cheers,
Shaun.

MikeWz
09-30-2005, 07:54 AM
Those'll work. Great racing set-up ;) . Also, check out that site I gave you for info on how to shim your diffs. THe actual link takes you right to the page on how to grind down part of the steering knuckles. But if you look at the menu on the side you'll see a tab for tranny/diffs. I recommend looking over all of the info there when you get a chance because it's full of great stuff. From one of our members Chevy-SS

slaf
09-30-2005, 09:08 AM
HiRisk -> Nice MGT ! What oil do you use in your PowerStroke ?

HIRISK
09-30-2005, 08:16 PM
Hi, they are just set up as standard at the moment with 30wt. I am going to rebuild them shortly and try the stiff spring set and some 35wt oil just to see how it affects the handling etc.

Monsterbrad
10-01-2005, 12:40 AM
As far as rims
I would say the RPM titans
they are tough as heck
they are not 40 series but you can get any tire for them and stiff foams if you want the stiff side walls.
the 40 series wheels are not that great for heavier trucks like this one

Imavol
10-02-2005, 05:43 PM
Hey I remember that one of you had a Os RGx on the MGT what header did you use mine is too small to fit over the exauhast adapter?

justinspankey
10-02-2005, 08:03 PM
What do you guys think of the new MGT SE version is it worth it? and The shock resevoirs functional? because i seen a good listing price on one so i would like to know some pros and cons of the truck.

Thanks in Advanced
Justin Clarke

MikeWz
10-02-2005, 08:21 PM
Justin - The resoviors are not functional, no. They aren't on the original version either. It's pretty much the same truck with a "beefed up" transmission (pretty uncessarily IMO) and a bigger engine. Slaf has one, and he says it's just as reliable as the .21, and that engine is really solid. You should definitely snag one.

Imavol - That was Cotharyus, shoot him a PM. He doesn't hit the forums much at this point but it'll probably send him an E-mail and notify him

Imavol
10-02-2005, 08:45 PM
Justin - The resoviors are not functional, no. They aren't on the original version either. It's pretty much the same truck with a "beefed up" transmission (pretty uncessarily IMO) and a bigger engine. Slaf has one, and he says it's just as reliable as the .21, and that engine is really solid. You should definitely snag one.

Imavol - That was Cotharyus, shoot him a PM. He doesn't hit the forums much at this point but it'll probably send him an E-mail and notify him

Thanks

Monsterbrad
10-03-2005, 08:28 PM
I may have to add another truck to the collection.
And it will be the new se
I am a big fan of this truck and as some of you know I have had them all.
:D

TNN
10-03-2005, 09:41 PM
Have any of you guys seen the new WERK's off-road clutch.I just got mine in my MGT .Can blow donuts at will on damp dirt.I will try it out on the track tuesday night.Its realy easy to adjust and install.Check it out www.werksracing.com

Cotharyus
10-04-2005, 07:44 AM
Imavol - You're actually not too far away from me. I'm near Clarksville myself. Anyhow, about that header thing. I used the standard side mount header for the MGT. It does seem like the adaptor is a little too large with the rubber boot in place, but if you take something (a little ARO or other petrolium lubricant) and slick the rubber exhaust gasket up a little, then just twist it on there with even preasure - it'll go.

MikeWz
10-04-2005, 07:46 AM
Have any of you guys seen the new WERK's off-road clutch.I just got mine in my MGT .Can blow donuts at will on damp dirt.I will try it out on the track tuesday night.Its realy easy to adjust and install.Check it out www.werksracing.com

Been out for a year or two now. It's a pretty awesome clutch, I like it a lot. I'm running carbon shoes on mine now, and I think I'm going to pick up a pair of the rulon ones because they're only like $10, so if I don't like them it's not really a loss

Chevy-SS
10-04-2005, 08:13 AM
Werks clutch sounds pretty good, but I have been using stock shoes for two seasons on three different MGT's (two racers, one basher). Stock shoes work fabulously, but the clutch needs to be tuned.

Use Mugen 1.1 springs and set clutch shoe weight at 1.6g for each shoe, taking weight off big end. Lightly scuff the shoe surface and inside of clutch bell with Scothbrite or something similar. Then clean with spray brake cleaner from auto store, make sure there is NO grease or dirt. Install good bearings, adjust endplay and you'll have a ripping clutch setup.

Clutch takes a serious beating and needs lots of maintenance, so take off frequently; clean CB and check everything.

Imavol
10-04-2005, 08:40 PM
Imavol - You're actually not too far away from me. I'm near Clarksville myself. Anyhow, about that header thing. I used the standard side mount header for the MGT. It does seem like the adaptor is a little too large with the rubber boot in place, but if you take something (a little ARO or other petrolium lubricant) and slick the rubber exhaust gasket up a little, then just twist it on there with even preasure - it'll go.

Yeah I finally got it on with some after run oil, and yes it is a really tight fit. Clarksville that is only about hour, hour 1/2 away. You ever raced in the indooor track in nashville?

Monsterbrad
10-04-2005, 09:30 PM
I have been running the stock shoes for 2 engine's now!
Works great with even the stock springs.

metalry101
10-04-2005, 10:36 PM
The stock clutch works alright. It wasn't grabby enough for my tastes. It did wear very, very well though. It still looked new when I took it out of the truck after about a gallon. My Mugen shoes wear well too though. I've put roughly 2.5 gallons on them and they still work great.

Cotharyus
10-05-2005, 07:39 AM
Never raced the indoor track, but chuck comes out to our off road track when he wants to get dirty. :)

Monsterbrad
10-05-2005, 06:38 PM
I have heard that mugen composits are pretty good.
I have tried ofna ones with no success.
I am still on the original set in this truck but I am having trouble with the LST.
Have to break in the new Mach here soon before the weather goes crap.

TNN
10-05-2005, 07:35 PM
I raced with my WERKS clutch last night.It worked good the first heat but the second heat the nut had tightened up.Must be I didn't put enough Loc-tite on the nut.So I reset it for the feature and it worked real nice.I like it better then the stock clutch.It puts the power to the wheels qiucker then stock.At least It seemed that way.I used the carbon shoes but I also have a set of the rulon shoes to.

MikeWz
10-05-2005, 11:15 PM
That's just the way you had it tuned, that's all. Tightening the nut is like adding weight to shoes, and loosening it is like lightening them. It'll retard or advance the time the shoes engage respectively. You can use it as a traction control in combination with the power curve of the engine to get best results

Monsterbrad
10-06-2005, 06:00 PM
thats what I like about the werks clutch is the tunability.
But how long will it last for us guys that are just bashing?

Ball Racing
10-06-2005, 09:14 PM
If you tighten the nut on the werks clutch it DOES not act like heavy shoes!
It compresses the spring more at rest which requires more rpms to get them to release.
So if you lessen the turns on the nut the shoes will move out sooner, like having heavy shoes...

Monsterbrad
10-06-2005, 09:17 PM
that also can be tuned by using different spring weights on the stock clutch set up.

Ball Racing
10-07-2005, 05:29 PM
Yes along with drilling the shoes or cuting them , mixing in a aluminum shoe with the carbons, reversing the direction of the shoes. etc.

Monsterbrad
10-08-2005, 01:38 AM
I have heard that the one aluminum one in with 2 carbon one works well.
I have not tried it yet cause I race mugen aluminum only and run carbon or teflon ones in the basher trucks

fuzzy2133
10-08-2005, 11:24 AM
one aluminum shoe with 2 carbons, how long does that one aluminum last? in my mind that aluminum would be gone in less than a day.

Monsterbrad
10-08-2005, 05:56 PM
I am not sure how long it will last.
In the race scene that I am used to it's all about performance.
I like to race week after week with no problems other then just basic cleaning and maintenance.
I would think in that set up with one aluminum one and the other 2 carbon would fry the carbon ones cause the aluminum one would get the clutch bell to hot for the carbon ones.
I am not sure I have just heard that the aluminum ones keep the clucth bell form getting glazed up.
I have all nylon ones in the MGT right now cause that works the best for bashing with no maintenance.

HIRISK
10-09-2005, 03:41 AM
Hi Guys,

I am brand new to the MGT and as such have not many hours behind the wheel. So I have a few questions in relation the reliabilty of a few items and also about some suggested hop ups.

I currently have the following:
Proline 23mm hubs
Proline Cheyenne 40 series wheels
Proline Moab tires
Associated Forward Only Kit
Proline Powerstroke Shocks

I am going to upgrade the standard 21 motor with the new OS 30 as soon as this becomes available to purchase, so would like to ask a few questions about other items that may need to be upgraded at the time of fitting this new motor.

Standard Driveshafts
I understand that the MGT comes standard with Universal drive shafts at all 4 corners and CVA's for the front and centre drive shafts. My question on these is - How strong are all the factory items?? Is it worth looking at upgrading either the Uni's or CVA's to MIP items??

Standard turnbuckles
Would it be necessary to look at upgrading the standard turnbuckles to Titanium items?? If yes, is there a particular brand to suggest??

Differentials
How are the standard 4 gear diffs?? How do they hold up?? I am in the process of stripping mine down and will shimming pinion when rebuilding. I am also looking at a diff tightener (see photo). Would this help??
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/swilton75/RC%20Cars/agm1012af_12b_13ar1.jpghttp://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/swilton75/RC%20Cars/agm1012af_12b_13arf.jpg

Exhuast
I am considering getting the Fantom Racing Works Tuning pipe (see photo) to match up to the OS 30. Does anyone have any experience with these??
http://i14.ebayimg.com/04/i/05/0e/62/21_1_b.JPG

I think that is about it from me :) Sorry about all the questions and I really do appreciate any feedback people can give. I just like to know my $$ are going to the right things.

Cheers,
Shaun.

Ball Racing
10-09-2005, 08:53 AM
If you clutch locks up proper, you will not get it hot with a aluminum shoe.(or any shoe)
The blend of shoes also gives a differnt "feel" of engagment..

Cotharyus
10-09-2005, 11:06 AM
Hi Guys,

I am brand new to the MGT

I am going to upgrade the standard 21 motor with the new OS 30 as soon as this becomes available to purchase, so would like to ask a few questions about other items that may need to be upgraded at the time of fitting this new motor.

Standard Driveshafts

Standard turnbuckles
Differentials
Exhuast


Welcome to the MGT - it's a great truck. It should rock with that 30 on it - Mine is actually waiting on one of those right now....so lets look at what you've got here...

You shouldn't need to touch the drive shafts. I've got two seasons of racing on mine, and haven't bent a wheel shaft, although I have replaced the aluminum hubs on either side of the tranny - they do seem to wear some, but it's no big deal, and no catastrophic failures.

I upgraded my turnbuckles to Ti for a couple of reasons - I recommend the search feature to find the turnbuckle upgrade discussion we had in this thread a few pages back.

Shim your diffs. They are strong otherwise and will hold up find.

In my opinion, you can't buy a better pipe than the one you're looking at.

Best of luck, and most importantly, have fun.

kurrz
10-09-2005, 11:12 AM
HiRisk I have the fantom pipe and it rocks like Coth said, there is a guy on ebay bigfatchew who auctions these pipes off cheap. I got mine for 25 dollars.

HIRISK
10-09-2005, 07:13 PM
Hi Cotharyus,

Thanks for the comments. Sounds like with the hop ups that I already have, the OS 30 should be OK to just bolt in and go. I can't wait till they release it for sale in the US!! I am actually in Australia, but buy most of my gear from the US. I will search for the turnbuckle discussion now.

Hi kurrz,

Funny you say that.....I just bought one from him :) Man, can't wait to hear the OS 30 screaming through that pipe!!

Monsterbrad
10-09-2005, 07:54 PM
Hey guys post a link to that pipe.
Thanks
brad

slaf
10-12-2005, 08:58 AM
Hi Cotharyus,

Thanks for the comments. Sounds like with the hop ups that I already have, the OS 30 should be OK to just bolt in and go. I can't wait till they release it for sale in the US!! I am actually in Australia, but buy most of my gear from the US. I will search for the turnbuckle discussion now.

Hi kurrz,

Funny you say that.....I just bought one from him :) Man, can't wait to hear the OS 30 screaming through that pipe!!

Fantom pipe is a quiet and good pipe. A bit too heavy if you are racing. I installed a XTM Mammoth tuned pipe on mine and it gives more top end and it's lighter....

You'll like an OS .30 in your MGT, like Coth said, shiff your diff if they need to. I don't think you need all those diff rings and mounts. My diff hold well after 8 gallon, I even don't need to shim them, they are tight like new.

Forward kit is a most if you wanna go racing, you'll save 7.75oz (220g) and boost your acceleration.

23mm Hexs are nice too even if I don't have them. Proline 40 series with 23mm hex are much tougher than normal 40 series wheels (I have bent 2-3 of then).

Proline PowerStroke are really nice and work well on the MGT if you install the stiffer spring kit for the MGT (grey/white). I run my with 40wt shock oil and they are nice. But they add 108 grams to the truck.

Factory turnbuckles are a nice touch too. I use them and they seem to last forever (not the case of the turnbuckles ends). They are lighter (22g) than the stock turnbuckles. Plus they add a nice look to the truck.

Hope this help, if you have any other question...Please let us know :)

fishstix
10-12-2005, 09:59 AM
I just bought a mgt se and was looking at the spare parts and tools that came with it. I have a small package of 2 washers in it. I read the manual several times but I didn't now find where these go. Any help? Thanks in advance.

slaf
10-12-2005, 10:37 AM
I just bought a mgt se and was looking at the spare parts and tools that came with it. I have a small package of 2 washers in it. I read the manual several times but I didn't now find where these go. Any help? Thanks in advance.


Are those with the manuals ??? They are shims for the clutch bell, tranny or diffs...I don't know

Monsterbrad
10-12-2005, 06:10 PM
I wish that they would give us shims for the diffs.
They need it!
Mine is still clicking after a bunch of abuse
it's cool how long it will last like that.
Just beating the crap outa it all the time

abels621
10-13-2005, 07:33 AM
hey guys, i am debating between the savage 4.6 and the mgt 4.60. Im leaning a bit towards the mgt, but what do you guys think?

Also what is a good pipe for the stock engine? I was thinking maybe the fantom racing pipe that was mentioned a few pages back or a vantage cf pipe.

Oh and one more thing, set up stock, will the truck do wheelies with the new tt.28? thanx a lot

Monsterbrad
10-13-2005, 09:43 PM
I am not sure about the wheelie thing but mine does with the Mach in it.
Also get the MGT don't mess around with the Savage.
They are good trucks but the MGT has a way better gas tank the savage tank sucks very much so.
MGT all the way I have had them both and the MGT is still in the collection the savage is gone.

fuzzy2133
10-14-2005, 01:02 AM
you really like the MGT once you do some work on a Savage. TVP are strong and look nice but forget quick repairs.

abels621
10-14-2005, 10:18 PM
alright guys, what about the new monster gt or the losi lst?

Monsterbrad
10-15-2005, 12:56 AM
Thats a tough one there.
I have both so its hard for me to give an opinion cause I like them the same for different reasons.
The MGT is tougher hands down but the electrics in the LST are way better.
But then again the LST is way harder on reciever batteries but you can y harness 2 batteries into the LST.
Bang for the buck if you don't feel like spending the 600 for an LST go with the MGT.
The new 4.6 version you will like it.

abels621
10-15-2005, 10:11 AM
I will probaly be racing at a new track ive found pretty close to my house but will also bash with it a good bit. I dont kill my trucks by jumping them 12 feet in the air, but they will catch some air and do some wheelies and race around my little dirt oval track with my cousins tmaxx.

Will the lst hold up pretty well if i put aluminum diff cases, a reciever pack, and replace any broken a-arms with rpm ones? Cause i dont want to break stuff everytime i run it such as my tmaxx.

How about the mgt what do i need to race with it or to upgrade? Thanx so much

Monsterbrad
10-15-2005, 07:22 PM
The best thing for the truck for racing is red springs and change the shocks over to the aluminum ones or integy ones as mentioned before on here.
Read back through the pages in here and you will get alot of help for setting up to race.
Also guys that have had the tranny apart I get to join you I lost front drive today in the tranny.
what could this be??????????

skidmark316
10-15-2005, 08:42 PM
The best thing for the truck for racing is red springs and change the shocks over to the aluminum ones or integy ones as mentioned before on here.
Read back through the pages in here and you will get alot of help for setting up to race.
Also guys that have had the tranny apart I get to join you I lost front drive today in the tranny.
what could this be??????????
Front drive or forward drive? If it's just the front wheels, one of your cvd pins
fell out.

fuzzy2133
10-15-2005, 10:12 PM
skidmark316 is right and you should check every pin and set screw for the cups and CVD's since you are at it. the other option is the output shaft broke by some fluke incident and I highly doubt it did.

Monsterbrad
10-15-2005, 10:48 PM
I will check it out tomorrow and see what it is.
I have not had any problems with the tranny on this truck all though I have been pounding the crap out of it since last december and its been pretty good.
I can't complain at all

StrokerAce
10-16-2005, 08:27 AM
Hey everyone. New MGT 4.60 should be here first of the week. Bummer it took so long to come from CA to VA. Was hopping to have it when I hit the track with my GT today. Atleast I hope I can make it out there today. It's been about two months since i've smelled nitro. Mainly because I've been out of fuel. Around 60 miles to the nearest shop and I haven't had time to make the trip. Got three gallons of 20% O'Donnel Racing Fuel in from tower middle of the week though so I should be set for a little while anyway. Enough talking I'm gonna get off my rump now and go prep the GT so I know I'll make it. Just gotta figure out where I put that card of #8's when it came in. Have a great day racing/bashing.

Mike

ArcadeFire
10-16-2005, 12:11 PM
hey does anyone know how fast the new MGT 4.6 is straight out of the box ?

Monsterbrad
10-16-2005, 12:42 PM
I have not heard yet but I would like to know also
I would hope it would run with mine with the Mach in it

Cotharyus
10-16-2005, 10:06 PM
strokerace - you'll have to tell us about it when it gets there. BTW, what part of VA are you from that you're 60 miles from a hobby shop?

MikeWz
10-17-2005, 08:25 AM
hey does anyone know how fast the new MGT 4.6 is straight out of the box ?
Top-speed wise...probably comparable to the Savage 4.6, considering the engine is the same size and the trucks are fairly close in weight. All depends on how it's geared, but it'll most likely hit 40MPH without a problem

slaf
10-17-2005, 09:01 AM
I will probaly be racing at a new track ive found pretty close to my house but will also bash with it a good bit. I dont kill my trucks by jumping them 12 feet in the air, but they will catch some air and do some wheelies and race around my little dirt oval track with my cousins tmaxx.

Will the lst hold up pretty well if i put aluminum diff cases, a reciever pack, and replace any broken a-arms with rpm ones? Cause i dont want to break stuff everytime i run it such as my tmaxx.

How about the mgt what do i need to race with it or to upgrade? Thanx so much

Here's a good way to convert your MGT into a full racer -> http://pages.globetrotter.net/rc10gt/howto_anglais.htm#Turn_your_MGT_into_a_full_racer_

badboy2
10-17-2005, 11:36 AM
thanks slaf ,they talked about lst pipe,does it fit perfectly?ive been tryin to look for a good side exhaust for my mgt..

StrokerAce
10-17-2005, 01:31 PM
I'm outside of Lynchburg. I made it to the track yesterday. It had been way too long since nitro fumes filled my lungs. When I got there the parking lot looked unusually full. My gut feeling put me right in the middle of a race. My very first race. It was a blast. I didn't do too bad either if you factor in I only have a few months of driving experience and was not prepared to be in a real race. Usually it's just me and a few other guys messing around out there. The extra weight of the transponder hooked to the roof of my trashed body took me out of the first race. I snapped a titanium top shaft the second race, but was able to throw the old steel one back in to make the third race. The rc10gt was taking a beating and kept coming back for more. Unfortunatly the body failed again so I DNF'ed three times. :( I think I had the only AE truck there. Next time there will be one in the MT class too. :) Race coming up on the 30th I'm gonna try to make aswell. Maybe i'll be a little more prepared.

Have a good one,
Mike

slaf
10-17-2005, 02:02 PM
thanks slaf ,they talked about lst pipe,does it fit perfectly?ive been tryin to look for a good side exhaust for my mgt..


LST pipe will fit but I think it will hit the mud guard. I race with the XTM Mammoth pipe and I really like it, cheap with great performance... Many racer prefer the Mammoth pipe over the LST pipe...

Monsterbrad
10-17-2005, 06:13 PM
I threw the Mach and the LST pipe in my MGT!
Yes you have to cut the mud guard alot to get the pipe in the truck.
But I didn't care cause when you are out for a bash session or racing and you grab that throttle and you have all you need!
Thats what it's all about to me :D

slaf
10-24-2005, 10:35 AM
Coth -> Do you still racing ?


Where's everybody ?

fuzzy2133
10-24-2005, 10:02 PM
I'm here. started to think you all started a MGT V3.0 thread

Monsterbrad
10-25-2005, 10:06 PM
This is the dead time of year on here!
We are all still here just doing different things!
That new 28 looks SWEET :D

Cotharyus
10-26-2005, 08:36 AM
Slaf - I haven't been to the track since the first weekend in June to race. I simply haven't had time. I took a new job in March, and got promoted a couple of times real fast, now I've got about 1/3 of the operation sitting in my lap, and it was a mess, so I've been having to clean it up. Lots of hours. But maybe by spring I'll have everything running smoothly... (including an OS .30!)

Monsterbrad
10-26-2005, 06:34 PM
I know this will not matter to most of us guys but remember if you are planning on running on a roar track the .30 is not legal.
From what I have been hearing so far.
My buddy is getting a new .28 MGT
I am looking forward to seeing it rip !

Cotharyus
10-28-2005, 07:48 AM
Nothing over .21 is "roar legal" unless you run unlimited.

skidmark316
10-28-2005, 08:06 AM
Nothing over .21 is "roar legal" unless you run unlimited.
http://www.roarracing.com/downloads/ROARMTRules.pdf

Cotharyus
10-29-2005, 08:41 AM
http://www.roarracing.com/downloads/ROARMTRules.pdf


So they've revised that since last time I read it. They must have heard me muttering under my breath how stupid it was to cut "Standard" off at .21 and make anything larger unlimited. Of course, I still think defining by engine size is a mistake.

Monsterbrad
10-29-2005, 10:26 AM
that says 28 is the biggest
so the new 30's that are out I have yet to see one that runs any better then a good .28 :o will not be allowed.
THis is kinda stupid cause I feel that it is all driver anyways.
There is no motor that will make you faster your skills will make you faster

slaf
11-01-2005, 08:55 AM
Skills and a well tuned/prepared truck will make you faster but more HP is always nice but sometime too much power result into slower lap time....

It always depends on who is holding the remote control :)




I have ran my TTR 28 for 1/2 gallon now, runs strong, a lot of torque, easy to tune, stay tuned but doesn't rev as high as I like. Also easy on fuel. I ran 11 minutes with the .28 and 13 minutes with the stock TTR 21 in a heavy bashing session :)

MikeWz
11-02-2005, 10:47 AM
Slaf - You can always take a dremel to the sleeve and crank to get some more RPM. You can also get get more run time from it...that's as simple as a little grinding on the transfer ports to help them out a bit. I messed with my TTR .21 a bit and I"m turning higher RPMs AND getting better run times because my transfer ports are more efficient. Just don't go too crazy

slaf
11-02-2005, 01:26 PM
I don't think I'm enough a good Dremel artist to grind the sleeve :(

fuzzy2133
11-02-2005, 02:49 PM
it does not take much more than a touch. the .21 piston and sleeve are cheap compared to some other engines. can't imagine the .28 piston and sleeve being too much more.

Monsterbrad
11-02-2005, 06:35 PM
All you have to do is drop the edge on the ports.
They are like little razors in there.
Dropping the edge just a little helps air flow.
You can even us a file but make sure its a half round very small file and don't take too much.

FreeRideJunkie
11-04-2005, 01:29 PM
Just figured that I would stop buy and say hey. I am currently in the middle of the sale of my GS Storm. After that I will be on the way to the LHS to pick up a new 4.60 MGT. I got tired of the Revo vs. Savage whiners and the LST is just to damn big and expensive... so I'm getting an MGT.

I will be running my own Rx pack to I know that I need to run that through slot 4 rather than the batt slot. Is there anything else that I need to know or should look to upgrade soon?? I've heard the motor is a piece of cake to break in and runs strong so I can't wait. Should have it by mid week.

metalry101
11-04-2005, 11:57 PM
...and the LST is just to damn big and expensive... so I'm getting an MGT.
You do realize that the MGT and LST are pretty much the exact same size in every way except width? With some wide offset rims on the MGT, they are within half an inch of each other in every dimension.

Monsterbrad
11-05-2005, 01:11 AM
I have both trucks and they both have there good and bad sides.
It just depends on what you want from it.
I like them both
The MGT is a better all out basher though!

metalry101
11-05-2005, 01:19 AM
Ya...I too own both...along with a lot of others...they do both rock. You guys are gonna like my MGT when I next post a pic...it's getting a complete rebuild soon. I'll be picking up a few goodies for it...and rebuilding the entire truck...i'll look new when I'm done...it's gonna be sweet!!

Monsterbrad
11-05-2005, 12:19 PM
My chassis has taken a hell of a beating
The engine mount will not stay tight anymore.
I have to rig something up to make the mount stay in place.
I guess that's what happens when you land up side down on concrete from about 6 foot in the air off a skate board ramp.
The chassis under the mount is wooped.

FreeRideJunkie
11-05-2005, 12:30 PM
Should there be a new MGT thread for the new 4.60 just like they did for the new savage?? Especially since this thread is approaching 120 pages and 3000 posts...

fuzzy2133
11-05-2005, 01:03 PM
my vote is for: Team Associated Monster GT V3.0

it might mess a few people up if you go: Team Associated Monster GT 4.60.

The way the savage threads were done just seems lame to me.

FreeRideJunkie
11-05-2005, 02:27 PM
Allright... I'm up for a 3.0. It's just a matter of who wants to do it. I'm not worthy.

fuzzy2133
11-05-2005, 04:23 PM
any body else want to start a new thread? I know that there is some good info back in the older pages however I do not know what pages they are.

metalry101
11-05-2005, 09:11 PM
I don't mind keeping this thread. I mean I suppose we could start a new one...but why? Whether it's 130 pages in one thread or 120 in one and 10 in another, it's just as hard to find stuff if you're looking for old posts...at least IMO. Either way works for me...but I just don't see the reason to start a new one.

Monsterbrad
11-06-2005, 01:23 AM
me either
lets just leave it
anybody that has questions I am sure that one of us with the truck can answer it.
I have found myself sitting looking through back pages for certian things.

HIRISK
11-10-2005, 04:57 AM
Hi Guys,

Well, I bought a used MGT a little while back and have been getting it ready to bash ever since. I have completely stripped and rebuilt the truck, replacing anything that needed it and added a few extras on as I go.

Current Spec List:
Associated Monster GT
STS .28
Racers Edge 16T Clutch Bell
Associated 46T Spur Gear
Associated Side Mount Header
Fantom Tuned Pipe
Associated FOC
Pro-Line Power Stroke Shocks
Pro-Line PS Shocks Mounting Kit
Pro-Line 23mm Hubs
Pro-Line Cheyyene 40 Series Weld Weels
Pro-Line 40 series Moab Tires
Pro-Line Ford F-650 Body

Here are some pics I took...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/swilton75/RC%20Cars/PB100051.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/swilton75/RC%20Cars/PB100046.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/swilton75/RC%20Cars/PB100050.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/swilton75/RC%20Cars/PB100045.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/swilton75/RC%20Cars/PB100049.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/swilton75/RC%20Cars/PB100047.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/swilton75/RC%20Cars/PB100048.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/swilton75/RC%20Cars/PB100044.jpg

slaf
11-10-2005, 06:36 AM
HiRisk -> Nice MGT :) I'll suggest you the extra firm springs for your powerstrokes

Cotharyus
11-10-2005, 07:26 AM
And I'd recommend dropping the body down as much as possible. The one thing you'll hear people complain about breaking on these trucks is the body mount posts - except me. I only broke one post :)

metalry101
11-10-2005, 11:03 AM
And I'd recommend dropping the body down as much as possible. The one thing you'll hear people complain about breaking on these trucks is the body mount posts - except me. I only broke one post :)
Definately a good suggestion. I have yet to break a single post. I've got my posts at the lowest setting they'll go to without drilling new holes.

RCfrodoRC
11-10-2005, 03:33 PM
Wow, nice truck I like that body, and I also like those rims. By the way I like your poster in the background :D

Cotharyus
11-10-2005, 04:53 PM
Definately a good suggestion. I have yet to break a single post. I've got my posts at the lowest setting they'll go to without drilling new holes.


I drilled new holes :D (this of course, required removal of the roll bar, but I also cut the posts in half - 8 posts for the price of four)

metalry101
11-10-2005, 08:08 PM
I drilled new holes :D (this of course, required removal of the roll bar, but I also cut the posts in half - 8 posts for the price of four)
Nice. I might have to do that too...although I'd have to trim the body even more in the front. It already hits the bumper supports. The roll bar isn't a concern, I haven't had it on the truck in a while.

As for that poster in the background...daaaaaaamn. How did I miss that?

Monsterbrad
11-12-2005, 01:38 AM
Sweet !!!!!!! :d

teampeter
11-12-2005, 12:55 PM
Is it me or does that look like Jolie?:D
Anyway, I am looking to get my first nitro MT for Xmas. From what I have seen, the MGT sounds good. Any must have upgrades for durability I should know about? Just how much snap and power does the 4.60 have? Any issues? Thnx in advance, and bash (or race) hard!
Ciao

Pete

Monsterbrad
11-14-2005, 06:12 PM
This truck or the LST are the best 2 all out monsters!
The new 4.6 is a good truck you will like it.
Just read back through this forum and you will see what needs to be done.
I had mine out bashing on saturday
Holy crap I was pounding the hell outa it and it just came back for more.
ONly thing broken was the amost a year old stock body and the clicking rear diff finaly lost a tooth but it still pushing forward! :D

teampeter
11-14-2005, 06:51 PM
Thanks! Now to convince the 'rents..... :D :D :D :D :D :b
Ciao

Pete

timberwolf211
11-14-2005, 10:24 PM
Has anyone tried the Integy MSR5 piggy back shocks on the MGT? I am considering getting a set to run with. Also how much does the FOC help? and is it worth it?

Cotharyus
11-15-2005, 07:37 AM
FOC is the biggest bang for the buck upgrade on this truck. It knocks about a half a pound (!!!) of rotating mass out of the tranny. Faster acceleration, and of course, the truck is lighter overall.

Personally, if I was going to spend the money on shocks, I'd either go FT (for a "standard" solution) or with the Power Stroke shocks.

slaf
11-15-2005, 10:42 AM
Coth -> You'll like the PowerStroke even if they are a little bit heavier. You'll also need the hardware kit and stiffer springs for the MGT.

slaf
11-15-2005, 12:54 PM
Coth -> I don't know if you see this OS .30VG review but it's interesting -> http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=596

There is a video at the bottom of the page

Cotharyus
11-16-2005, 08:07 AM
Yep :)

Monsterbrad
11-16-2005, 09:30 PM
Well I am in need of a new enigne and I can say that looks pretty good but I have heard other reviews of this engine that's it's only a 4 port which is kinda crappy and the fact that the sleeve is not just chrome is kinda up setting.
I am just not sure about all these new engine's.
I have all mach 26's and one HPI 4.6 which I raced all summer and its just as fast as any other engine out there.
The bigger the displacement the more fuel the engine sucks down also.
I just can't decide
then there are the race engines like the Ws 7 II that are just as fast and are 21's like the p-5 and other race engines.
This is a pain trying to decide what to go with.
Nothing for right now :cool:

slaf
11-16-2005, 09:33 PM
On my next engine list, there is the OS 30 VG and Ofna/Picco 27

Quad Racer
11-16-2005, 11:58 PM
For the mgt if you are a serious racer get the picco 27. It is stronge rthe machs will last longer. Gets the MGt going ina hurry and has tons of power to make a wheelie from time to time!

slaf
11-17-2005, 08:28 AM
I know Picco 27 are great engines but I'm waiting to see how the OS .30 will perform and if it's not too thirsty on the fuel :)

Monsterbrad
11-17-2005, 08:14 PM
The OS 30 is only a 4 port
but I have read that it runs pretty well.
There is a test on it in the forum for the enigine in here.
Check it out

fuzzy2133
11-17-2005, 10:07 PM
what is the deal? 4 ports, 7 ports, the OS VZ-B V-spec .21 was dynoed at 1.47HP @ 24,250rpm and it is only a 3 port.

Cotharyus
11-18-2005, 07:37 AM
Yep. Ports are only important in Italian engines, and Japanese sports cars. Everywhere else it's overall engineering that counts. If OS says they can do it with four ports, well, based on thier track record, I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt.

slaf
11-18-2005, 10:49 AM
I noticed that more the engine has port then more he revs...

A lot of italian engines has 6-7-8 ports and they rev more than any OS engines

turd-furgison
11-19-2005, 12:15 AM
hey guys, i just got the 4.60 se rtr the other day and i have a question about the wheel hexes for the truck, the hexes didnt come installed on the truck so when i went to install them i noticed that the pins that go through the axles just fall through the hole and the hex part its self just slips over the pins, so when i take the wheels off the hex gets stuck in the wheel and the pin just falls out, i was wondering if you guys know of anyway to secure them in place so that they dont fall off when i take the wheels off or if thats how its spose to be ... any help would be great... thanks

Quad Racer
11-19-2005, 12:19 AM
Will solve all your problems
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFVB2&P=Z

and the work on other trucks too. Like a revo,savage and what not

turd-furgison
11-19-2005, 12:27 AM
thanks quad racer... ill be buying those

Quad Racer
11-19-2005, 12:34 AM
No problem. If I may ask did you get the MGT to bash or race? Any way come join the fourms all about the MGT!

http://www.monstergtforum.com/

turd-furgison
11-19-2005, 12:42 AM
i mainly got it to bash with but i well mess around with it on my track that i have in my yard .. im not goin to race it at my local track or anything

Quad Racer
11-19-2005, 12:45 AM
Here are some tips and hints from a person on the fourms.

http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/

turd-furgison
11-19-2005, 12:55 AM
yeah ive already went through all that stuff... it is really helpful information.... thanks tho

metalry101
11-19-2005, 03:24 AM
Will solve all your problems

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFVB2&P=Z

and the work on other trucks too. Like a revo,savage and what not
Those wouldn't work a Savage. Other trucks have a 6mm shaft all the way through the hub, but the Savage has like an 8mm shaft through the hubs and then necks down to a 6mm where the hex slides on.

beaglegod
11-20-2005, 12:18 PM
Yep I just dropped 540 bucks on a MGT 4.60SE with a few goodies (4 sets of rpm a-arms upper and lower,humpstyle battery pack 1400, rechargable glow starter with meter etc. ) Ive been looking at trucks for a month now and it was a toss between this,the LST, and Savage 4.6. I finalywent with this, seemed easy to get to everything on the chasis, and had lots of aftermarket parts, the radio looks like it sucks but I can always upgrade later.

Looks like Im commited, hopefully itll arive next week, and hopefully I made a good choice. :rolleyes:

Monsterbrad
11-20-2005, 12:29 PM
You will like it!
Its a tough truck very tough.
I am on the way right now for another bash session on my fried rear ring and pinion gear.
Its going to go through hell today!!!!!!
:D

Monsterbrad
11-20-2005, 10:28 PM
I broke it finally today
Tranny
spins freely at the spur gear
something is broken for sure oh well
not bad for an entire year of bashing and 2 engine's and no cleaning :D

2mcgrath
11-23-2005, 11:53 PM
i was wondering will ofna clutch bells work on the mgt?i just got mine used from ebay and im needing a clutch bell..i have some ofna ones but are they the same pitch and all?

metalry101
11-24-2005, 12:14 AM
i was wondering will ofna clutch bells work on the mgt?i just got mine used from ebay and im needing a clutch bell..i have some ofna ones but are they the same pitch and all?
Yes, they are the same pitch, but I'm not sure about the off-set. Different companies have different depths on the bell...so that might be an issue, but yes, the MGT does run a standard 1/8th gear pitch, so Ofna, HPI, and other 1/8 bells will mesh with spur just fine in that manner.

2mcgrath
11-24-2005, 12:53 AM
allright thanks for the input

fishstix
11-24-2005, 09:09 AM
I took mine out for the first time the other day. I ran into a problem on the vehicle only wants to turn left. I was just on the first tank of gas. Of course, I still have the stock controller. If I waited a few minutes the truck would turn again. I didn't know if radio interference would keep it from turning or not...I looked over the truck and I didn't find anything that was binding it. Any help would be appreciated.

Monsterbrad
11-24-2005, 11:15 AM
The stock radio hmmm can we say garbage !
Any ways check the radio batteries make sure you are all charged up.
Another thing check the crystal and make sure its all the way in.
un plug the crystal and re plug it back in.
If all that does not work then call Associated they will probably want you to send it back.
To be completely honest here buy a better radio you will like it much better in the long run.
Even a cheap FM one will work better.
My tranny is smoked in mine
the spur and pinion just spin freely.
Also I have an ofna clutch bell on mine it works great.
The vented ones are the best in my opinion.

Brian23
11-25-2005, 08:58 PM
i saw a guy today running his mgt 4.6 in ramsey by my lhs and when he was starting it up he used a cordless drill... u though this engine had a pullstart? but i was thinking of geting hte mgt 4.6 and i hate pulstarts so do i need any mods to use the dril start?

slaf
11-25-2005, 09:00 PM
i saw a guy today running his mgt 4.6 in ramsey by my lhs and when he was starting it up he used a cordless drill... u though this engine had a pullstart? but i was thinking of geting hte mgt 4.6 and i hate pulstarts so do i need any mods to use the dril start?


The MGT has a pullstart and a drill start system.

The shaft is included with the truck. You'll only need a cordless drill.

I 99% of the time start my MGT with a cordless drill. I keep the pullstart for when my drill's battery is dead.

Brian23
11-25-2005, 09:13 PM
when u say the shaft is that the shaft that goes in the drill?

kurrz
11-25-2005, 09:29 PM
Yeah its great I pulled out my P/S and just use the drill start. I love it. Yeat its basically a quarter inch hex shaft.

kurrz
11-25-2005, 10:44 PM
Should your choice of glow plug change with the weather? I currently use a OS#8. I live in ME and now the daytime highs are around 40 degrees. Any suggestions? Also everytime I go to my LHS and ask for an OS#8 they look @ me strange when I say it's for a big block???? Thanks

Cotharyus
11-26-2005, 08:17 AM
Kurrz - they guys at your LHS are nuts. I use OS plugs in my MGT, I like the A3 on all but the coldesst days, then the timing advance is just too much and I fall back to the #8.

beaglegod
11-26-2005, 12:12 PM
So is a O.S. #8 plug ok to use? Because its all Ive used so far and I bought a whole bunch of them because I was under the impression it was a good all around plug.