Team Associated Monster GT V2.0

[sl9mk]

I'm just going off the Tower website. It says the Revo and T-maxx have 4" and the MGT has 3.75". Both companies must measure it differently.

[MikeWz]

Eh, dont' worry about what's listed on their site. If you've ever seen an MGT, Maxx and Revo in person you'd know the MGT is taller. It's also wider and longer than both so it's real stable too. The Revo's real planted too, but that's more of a truggy/off-road F1 than a Monster Truck

[sl9mk]

I've got another one: How many HP is the 4.6 rated at in its stock form? I can't seem to find that anywhere.

Shane

[slaf]

I've got another one: How many HP is the 4.6 rated at in its stock form? I can't seem to find that anywhere.

Shane


The TTR ST1's engine is the same as the MGT .28 engine and it's rated at 2.4HP...

[LD3Furious]

Unless ya get it modded!!! :cool:

I decided to experiment. Send mine out to be modded, rather than TRY! to sell it then buy another like most people seem to be doing. I just got the engine back today so I havn't run it in yet. Hopefully this w/end but the weather isn't looking very promising. Will let ya know how things go and post pics of my heavily modded MGT soon :)

[Brian23]

i ran about 3/4 of a tank thorugh my truck when the inside of my spur stripped... not were the teeth were at first... but the inside it was weird ... easy fix just weird

[slaf]

i ran about 3/4 of a tank thorugh my truck when the inside of my spur stripped... not were the teeth were at first... but the inside it was weird ... easy fix just weird


Was your slipper clutch tight enough ???

[MikeWz]

i ran about 3/4 of a tank thorugh my truck when the inside of my spur stripped... not were the teeth were at first... but the inside it was weird ... easy fix just weird
Sounds like the mesh wasn't right. When you slide the motor mount over to have the clutch bell conatc the spur, you have to be careful to make sure both the front and back of the motor mount move the same amount. Sounds to me like you the back too far forward/the front too far back.

[sl9mk]

I have heard around that the diffs/tranny needs to be shimmed on the new MGT's. Where do I get these shims? I'll be buying my MGT by the end of the month and would like to get a list of things to get with it. I already have fuel. I plan on getting a hump pack and charger, though I'm not sure which ones. Also, I plan on getting some NiMH's for the transmitter. What else do I need to buy with it. Temp gauge? Blue Loctite? I'm thinking of the FOC, but probably won't get that until later. I am mainly asking about small things like hardware, etc. that I'll need.

Shane

[MikeWz]

Well, you'll need your Fuel, Glow Starter (rechargables such as Great Planes, Tower Hobbies and HPI are best, but I like to carry one of the starters that take a standard C/D cell battery too incase the rechargable dies), Pit Bottle, Temp gauge is an option. I've never ever owned one because I don't think it's a good idea to tune by temperatures and it's all too tempting to do so if you've got a temp gauge.
You should snag a pair or two of a-arms, a set of steering knuckles, a pair of shocks and maybe even a shock tower to bring along with you if you're going to do real off-road bashing. It's really aggrivating when stupid stuff goes wrong and ruins your day. If you bring all you allen keys/screw drivers, a few of the most common broken parts, extra fuel and the extra Standard Cell glow starter you could be out there all day (chances are you could be out there all day anyway...but sometimes stuff just happens)

[sl9mk]

That's exactly what I was looking for.

Now how about those shims?

Also, are there multiple shock mounting positions on the MGT to raise it or lower it, kind of like the Duratrax Warhead?

Shane

[LD3Furious]

http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/

Check out this site. This guy put a lot of time into it and it has a lot of great info, including the diff shim questions you have. If you are starting with a brand new truck...well, I just did as well. I'll post pics in a lil bit. But anyway, as for the shims, I didn't feel the need for them at this time with everything being brand new. I am also using the GPM diff cases and collars, so that may be why the diff felt good w/o shimming...I'm not too sure.

[LD3Furious]

Ok... I posted a few pics on my site, to be seen here...

http://spaces.msn.com/ascaldedkittyracing/PersonalSpace.aspx?_c11_PhotoAlbum_spaHandler=TWlj cm9zb2Z0LlNwYWNlcy5XZWIuUGFydHMuUGhvdG9BbGJ1bS5FZG l0TW9kZUNvbnRyb2xsZXI%24&_c11_PhotoAlbum_albumid=cns!6EC672B4710E026D!134&_c11_PhotoAlbum_spaReturnToFull=0&_c11_PhotoAlbum_spaProcess=1&_c=PhotoAlbum&_c02_owner=1#toppage


First, if you look where the MGT slideshow is, you'll see the title "MGT". Click on the little white colored arrow and a drag down menu will come up. There's another photo album you can see if you like.
Second...on to the MGT mods.
1) AE Blue chassis, bellcranks for steering, "robo" brake disc, F.O.C
2) GPM blue aluminum diff cases, bearing colars, flywheel, engine mount
3) Proline Powerstroke shocks, 23mm hubs, Bowties mounted on Wide Maxx wheels
4) RRP dual disc slipper
5) TNT Mods modded stock 4.6 engine
As you can see, I still have some work to do. Hopefully will have it all complete and ready to break in the engine by this w/end. I am gonna hack at the radio tray to get rid of what isn't needed now that the reverse servo is gone. Im waiting on some stuff I just ordered to come in...and with that I have a couple sets of TTR S3 buggy clutch shoes I plan to run on my MGT. I chose these for no other reason than they are sooo much easier to work with than "normal" style shoes. I also have a shipment of bearings from Avid coming in which includes all I need for my S3 as well as clutch bearings I will use for both vehicles. For exhaust, I have a JP-1 pipe and header. I used this combo on a stock HB .26 and it was too constrictive. I decided to try mounting a THS pipe I had laying around onto the JP header. This REALLY! woke the HB engine up. So, Im probably gonna try that on the MGT engine and see how it works. Im gonna use the stock arms until they break, for now. Once they are gone, Ill swap to RPM blue arms. I guess thats enough for now. :):):)

[sl9mk]

I've heard about the channel 4 conversion to make your steering servo see 6V instead of 4.8V. What if you put a 6V hump pack in and do the channel 4 conversion? Will your steering servo see something like 7.2V? Will that damage the servo or be even better?

Shane

[LD3Furious]

It will see whatever voltage the Rx pack puts out. If you are careful with your E.P.A, it should be fine @ 7.2. And yeah, it will make your servos seem more powerful and quick. I think the main issue with people blowing servos is with those that run LiPo Rx packs without using a voltage regulator. These typically push 8.4v.

[Chevy-SS]

http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/

Check out this site. This guy put a lot of time into it and it has a lot of great info, including the diff shim questions you have. If you are starting with a brand new truck...well, I just did as well. I'll post pics in a lil bit. But anyway, as for the shims, I didn't feel the need for them at this time with everything being brand new. I am also using the GPM diff cases and collars, so that may be why the diff felt good w/o shimming...I'm not too sure.

Hey, thanks for the kind words! If you're already using the GPM case, then that's a good start. Diff-shimming is one thing I recommend for everyone. I had tons of diff problems, that's why I added that info to the site. One weekend I blew out three diffs in one day, needless to say, didn't win any races that day.

The diffs will usually give you a few warning clicks when they start to go. If you hear the noise, then stop immediately and you can probably save the gears by shimming (or re-shimming).

I'm working up a super setup for this year's race season. I'll post it when done. Using things like two 94358 steering servos, 94357 th/br, Ti pillows, BowTie MT (the new tires). My goal this year is to reduce "unsprung" weight (tires, a-arms and such) as much as possible. Plus, I am doing the two-servo mod to add extra weight ("sprung" weight, so this is OK) over front wheels. This really helps with "pushing" in tight turns. I had two-servo steering in 2004, but went to one servo (Hitec 5995) in 2005.

Lot of us MGT guys also hang out here at this site, which is devoted to MGT: http://monstergtforum.com/

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[oggydog]

I have heard around that the diffs/tranny needs to be shimmed on the new MGT's. Where do I get these shims? I'll be buying my MGT by the end of the month and would like to get a list of things to get with it. I already have fuel. I plan on getting a hump pack and charger, though I'm not sure which ones. Also, I plan on getting some NiMH's for the transmitter. What else do I need to buy with it. Temp gauge? Blue Loctite? I'm thinking of the FOC, but probably won't get that until later. I am mainly asking about small things like hardware, etc. that I'll need.

Shane

I would get a few extra glow plugs just in case.At least after break in you may want to change one.

[sl9mk]

I still have some Supre Tigre Sport plugs that are medium heat that I have left over from when I used to fly planes. Does this work in the MGT?

[MikeWz]

If they're "long" plugs, or have an Idle bar...no you can't. They'll smack the piston as it comes up and it's game over. I run OS #8s in mine and they work great.

[oggydog]

I use mccoy mc59 if you get the associated plug you save $2.00 per plug on Tower.They say it is long but it is only .030" longer than a short plug.

not due till late march though man those are hard to get on tower they sell fast.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBLX2&P=7

[oggydog]

Well I got my MGT today and this thing it huge .I am very impressed with the way it is made. I saw the twin shock set up and thought a T-maxx copy and boy I was wrong this thing looks like a tank compared to a t-maxx and it makes my revo look small. I did'nt think it was that big all I can say is WOW this looks like money well spent. Now just have to wait on the weather so I can break this bad boy in can't wait.

[Brian23]

Have fun :-D

[sl9mk]

What's up with Tower Hobbies raising their prices $17?! Figures. I was about to order one. Now I may just order from Ultimate Hobbies.


Shane

[sl9mk]

I just called Tower and they are willing to price match with Ultimate Hobbies. I just can't get an ultimate combo or use any ad numbers, and I would have to pay shipping where shipping is free with Ultimate. I guess I'll have to put pen to paper and figure it out. Such drama!

Shane

[metalry101]

Or you could get it from your local hobby shop and avoid all the headaches. They'll probably be a helluva lot more helpful if you have problems than Tower or Ultimate will.

[MikeWz]

Or you could get it from your local hobby shop and avoid all the headaches. They'll probably be a helluva lot more helpful if you have problems than Tower or Ultimate will.

And you'll be supporting the LHS. The best LHS around me is about 45mins awaly but when I need parts I head out there anyway.

[sl9mk]

My "local" hobby shop is about 90 miles and everytime I go in there he says, "We're waiting on a shipment of that." He carries very little and never stocks actual trucks, so the internet is actually a lot more convenient for me.

[metalry101]

My "local" hobby shop is about 90 miles and everytime I go in there he says, "We're waiting on a shipment of that." He carries very little and never stocks actual trucks, so the internet is actually a lot more convenient for me.
Fair enough. I just always ask because I work in a hobby shop.

[BC Don]

Just bought an MGT. I was looking at that and the Losi LST2. Preferred the LST2 but the MGT was on sale to the point where it cost 1/2 (C$400 instead of C$800) so it became a no brainer. Just picked it up today. Went over the screws and such, found some not tightened, no lock tite on the set screws holding the small collars on rods (throttle / brake). Set up was out a bit (throttle decreased when brake applied), brakes were set VERY mild.

Haven't started it up yet. LHS says to wait for warmer weather to break it in, it is currently just around freezing. Any comments from the list on break in temperatures (ambient temps)? I don't really want to wait for months to break it in.

[BC Don]

Second item. What about running the MGT in wet weather or in icy / snowy conditions. Again the LHS says not to, that if it is wet (rain, snow etc.), that'll get into the electronics and you'll have to replace them. This seems a bit odd to me cause I thought the MGT would be able to go through mud.

Comments?

[MikeWz]

No problem running it in the wet:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/MikeWz/Monster%20GT/b78366a6.jpg

Still running the same electronics from that picture almost 2 years ago now with no problems.
Also, about the set-up of the truck. It's a RTR, you can't expect it to be set-up perfectly, and with EVERY truck you buy you need to check screws for thread lock. Not one of the trucks I've ever owned has been set-up properly from factory...that's why I prefer kits
And as far as breaking in. What kind of temps are you seeing there? I broke a Mach .15 in in about 30*F and it was fine. You just have to make sure your temping no lower than 200*F. You'll have to run about 1/8th turn richer than they tell you though because cold air leans out the mixture. Just wrap some tinfoil around the first few fins of the cooling head and that'll get your temps to where they need to be.

[LD3Furious]

I took my MGT apart completely, added all the mods ( not necessary, I just wanted to) and re-assembled it. One of the things I found was that all of the suspension arms were binding severely. I used a dremel to lightly grind the area where the arms mount and this cured the binding.

[Brian23]

do u guys use different hex drivers or whhat? lose little L shaped wrenches are a pain, but the screwdrivers at the lhs are really expensive, and home depot and the hardware store different have hex drivers with the long shafts to get the hard to reach places. what do u guys use? Do you think i should just save uup for a nice set of screw drivers

[Brian23]

do u guys use different hex drivers or whhat? those little L shaped wrenches are a pain, but the screwdrivers at the lhs are really expensive(for me atleast), and home depot and the hardware store different have hex drivers with the long shafts to get the hard to reach places. what do u guys use? Do you think i should just save uup for a nice set of screw drivers

[Chevy-SS]

Get a good set of hex drivers with the four basic sizes: 1.5mm 2mm 2.5mm 3mm

Don't mess around, just get a decent set. You'll go crazy trying to use standard allen wrenches.

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[BC Don]

Well, ran 4 tanks through. The first 3 I propped the truck up on a box and got it up to operating temps (220 to 260) by running at full throttle, then back down to idle (10 seconds full throttle, 10 seconds idle). Slowly leaned it out a bit on the low and high end. Then for tank #4 took it out on the street. The street still has some packed down snow on it. Lots of fun tearing through it and doing turns and stops skidding around. This thing is going to be fun.

[BC Don]

How do I incrase breaking force?

I've set up the brakes as well as I can. But, I can't do stoppies which I think I should be able to do. Do I need some kind of add-on or different brake compounds, shoes or plates or what?

[MikeWz]

Replace the spring on the arm with a piece of fuel tubing. You should also look into the Hardcore Racing "Robo" disc brake. I noticed a significant difference with that

[Vmax911]

Hey all, I just ordered a MGT 4.6. Most everything I've read about the truck has been positive. However, I read in a review that the shock caps can blow off under extreme jumping conditions (isn't that what this truck is for?! :) ). Anywho, can the factory team aluminum caps be used on the stock plastic shock bodies, or do you have to get the aluminum shock bodies too? Any other things I should look into doing before getting it dirty?

[Chevy-SS]

How do I incrase breaking force?

I've set up the brakes as well as I can. But, I can't do stoppies which I think I should be able to do. Do I need some kind of add-on or different brake compounds, shoes or plates or what?

Make sure that adjustment is spot-on. You've only got a short throw available for braking servo. Next, do fuel tube mod as listed above. Another thing I typically do is upgrade the steering servo and then move stock steering servo to the brake/throttle position.

Biggest culprit to weak brakes, IMO, is simple. Fuel gets on brake disc. Fuel has oil in it. Oil on brakes (even tiniest amount) means you got weak brakes, simple as that. Get some spray brake cleaner from auto store and hose off the pads and disc.

MGT Racer Tips & Tricks
http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/

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[Chevy-SS]

Hey all, I just ordered a MGT 4.6. Most everything I've read about the truck has been positive. However, I read in a review that the shock caps can blow off under extreme jumping conditions (isn't that what this truck is for?! :) ). Anywho, can the factory team aluminum caps be used on the stock plastic shock bodies, or do you have to get the aluminum shock bodies too? Any other things I should look into doing before getting it dirty?

FT shock caps is good idea. Buy a few extra shocks too. Shafts will bend on ya, with a hard crash.

Lots of tips for improving your MGT in the link below. Shimming your diffs is one thing worth doing right away. That process is explained in detail on the site.

MGT Racer Tips & Tricks
http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/

[BC Don]

In reading through various tips in various areas, one of the tips offered to increase Steering Capability is to take the battery wire out of the "B" port on the Rx and put it into the unused port (port 4).

Makes no sense to me :confused:. As far as I know there isn't any kind of regulator in the "B" port and it doesn't make any difference which port you plug the battery into.

Anyone know technically why this would make a difference?

[badboy2]

i think it was a factory defect on the receivers...but id rather get a nice servo for u to feel or get a perfect steering..

[MikeWz]

Actually I'm pretty sure you're bypassing the BEC. A BEC limits the amount of current that goes out to the servos. If you bypass that you're getting the full potential to the servos.
For example:
The Li-Po pack in my helicopter is a 2100mAH 11.1V pack. If all 11V went into a servo it would fry the motor because it can't handle that. So, the speed controller for the motor (where the battery plugs into) has a built in BEC to limit the amount of power that goes to the servos/reciever.
However, if you're running the standard AA pack you have 4.8V and if you're running an NiMH pack you're running 6V, so there's no worry in frying anything. I'm not exactly sure why they would limit the voltage...I suppose it helps battery life, but I'd rather have more aggressive steering than slightly longer battery life

[BC Don]

The Battery Eliminator Circuit (BEC) was created so that electric R/C cars (lets say running on 6 NiCds @ 7.2V) could eliminate the Receiver Battery that Nitro based cars need. The BEC reduces the 7.2V (or 8.4 if you were running 7 cells) down to 4.8V for the receiver to run and for the servos to run. The BEC is part of the Speed Control.

For Nitro based Helis (and planes and cars) is to power the Receiver, servos, gyros, governors etc. (which all want somewhere between 4.8V and 6V) with a LiPo battery. But a single cell LiPo puts out 3.7V, not enough and a 2 cell LiPo puts out 7.4V, too much. So, a regulator is used to step down the Voltage to a number between 4.8 and 6 (depending upon the regulator). Some regulators have 2 outputs, one at 4.8 for gyros which don't like 6V and a 6V for the rest of the Servos.

Both the BEC and Regulator are outside of the Receiver.

So, I do not understand why plugging into Channel 4 instead of the "B" channel would make any difference.

Anyone know?

[Vmax911]

From reading the above posts regarding the BEC, I'll give my hypothesis.

The battery slot on the reciever is an input. It may take whatever input voltage (within a certain range) and regulate it to 4.8V. This 4.8V is then output to channels 1-4 to power the servos. Thus all the "power leads" (red wires on servo harness) are connected internally (to the output of the regulator).

So, if I take a 6V pack and put it into the battery slot, I get a regulated 4.8V powering the servos. If I take that same 6V pack and plug it into ch. 4 (or any other channel), I get 6V going to the servos. Now put too much voltage into ch. 4 (like 7.4V as BC Don mentioned), and you fry your servos. So, by using ch.4, you bypass the regulator.

This may not be typical of a reciever, but it would explain it.

[Chevy-SS]

Ahhh, the famous "Channel 4 Mod". You can see for yourself by measuring voltage at steering with battery into A, then switch to B.

http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/maxste1.jpg

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[SerpentKing101]

OK. i figured out that my next rc trucks is going to be a MGT (was going to be a savage, then i noticed you could remove those chassis plates). So if everyone could gloat about how good thiers is, the all the better for me. :D

and correct me if im wrong, but the engine mount is slotted, so you could pretty much drop in any big-block without too much hassle, right?

[Chevy-SS]

SK101, the MGT is certainly one of the better trucks out there. Easy to service, easy to clean, easy to race or bash, pretty good right out of the box.........

Virtually all engine mounts are slotted and you are correct in that just about any big-block will drop right in with minimal hassle.

[BC Don]

Thanks "Chevy-SS", I'll check the voltage at the steering (and other) servo positions with the battery plugged into the "B" slot and then plugged into the Channel 4 slot.

The only way that I can see that there'd be a difference is if there is a regulator on the 'B" slot. And, if that's the case then you could plug a LiPo directly in there without a problem as well. :D

[badboy2]

http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/5813/dsc020267fj.jpg
heres my new wing..

[BC Don]

Nice Wing, Nice Bling.

OK, I understand why your pressure line is zip tied but why the zip ties on the top of your engine cylinder head? :confused:

[badboy2]

well its a cheap way of supporting the head hehehe

[sl9mk]

How long would the 8 AA's in the transmitter last if they were 2500 mah NiMH?

By the way, thanks for posting your truck, badboy2. It's nice to see how you've set it up for racing.
Shane

[Brian23]

.im just wondreing... dont racers say alumnum is bad ? why the rear shock tower?

[BC Don]

Geez, 2500MAh NiCds or NiMh in your Tx? That would certainly last you through the weekend. I run 1100 MAh in my Heli and Plane Txs and get more than a weekend out them. But then I put in a pack that is pre-assembled and have a second pack available so I can swap them out when they get low. That way I get to discharge the NiCds.

[MikeWz]

.im just wondreing... dont racers say alumnum is bad ? why the rear shock tower?
Aluminum is heavy and in most cases unnecessary. For racing, especially this truck, aluminum shock caps/bodies would be a good idea (especially for running a 4 shock set-up), and maybe the steering knuckles. There's no real reason for anything else aluminum on this truck really. Everything holds up real well. Other than that, it just looks good but is unnecessary weight.

[sl9mk]

I kinda figured I would get that reaction on the 2500 mah NiMH's. However, you can get a set of four Energizer's for less than $10 at Wal-Mart.

[badboy2]

.im just wondreing... dont racers say alumnum is bad ? why the rear shock tower?

i got it so i can put the wing..it didnt add too much weight i guess but i like the way it handles ;)

[BC Don]

Contacted AE and their response to why Channel 4 on the Rx delivers more power than the 'B' channel follows:

The 4th channel is unregulated so the servos get whatever power they
require. When plugged into channel B the servos are only able to use
what power that the receiver gives them.

Still haven't tried it myself.

[sl9mk]

Who's hogging the MGT's? I just called Ultimate and looked at Tower and they are both out of MGT's. What's the deal here? If I wanted to hear, "We're waiting on a shipment of that" I'd go to my lhs.

Shane

[MikeWz]

Don - Sounds to me like they told you it had a BEC without actually saying it. The RX pack they give you have a BEC connector anyway...so more than likely that's what it is

[Vmax911]

Who's hogging the MGT's? I just called Ultimate and looked at Tower and they are both out of MGT's. What's the deal here? If I wanted to hear, "We're waiting on a shipment of that" I'd go to my lhs.

Shane

That explains why my credit card hasn't been charged for the MGT I ordered from Ultimate hobbies last Sunday. They didn't say when they would get any in did they?

[sl9mk]

They hoped sometime next week. Apparantly that is the timeline from Associated. Tower says the same thing.

[BC Don]

OK, I tested the voltage on the Rx. When I plug the pack into the "B" slot and measure the voltage coming across the rest of the Rx it is 6V (actually a bit higher than that). This is with the NiMh pack in.

So, there is NOT any kind of voltage regulating going on. A BEC is a voltage regulator.

The only thing that I can figure out what to do now is to somehow figure out how to measure torque from the Steering Servo and see if there is any difference. But in my mind, 6V = 6V. All that I can see happening is that maybe "somehow" by using slot 4 in the Rx you can get more amperage through. I'll email Associated back and see if they can explain in any more detail.

[sl9mk]

They're here! I just ordered two from Ultimate and it appears that Tower has some in stock now, too. I was told by Topper at Ultimate that now you have to run 30% Nitro in the new MGT because they changed the head design. Sounds like mo' POWWA to me!

Shane

[Brian23]

you shoudnt "HAVE" to run it. Shouldnt you be able to still run what you want

[sl9mk]

He said Associated recommended 30% now rather than 20% like before because of the redesigned head.

[Brian23]

oh ic

[Vmax911]

Interesting, I didn't know there were any changes planned. Anyone else heard of this?

Anyway, I hope that means that my truck will be shipped soon!

[MikeWz]

you shoudnt "HAVE" to run it. Shouldnt you be able to still run what you want
When the motor is shimmed for 30% you can still run 20% it just won't be near as efficient (not as much power) and it may run a little higher in the temps. 30% is better anyway, you can run a richer mixture and still get the same power so it keeps your temps down. That's the real advantage

[Brian23]

what d you mean when you sayit is shimmed for 30%

[Chevy-SS]

OK, I tested the voltage on the Rx. When I plug the pack into the "B" slot and measure the voltage coming across the rest of the Rx it is 6V (actually a bit higher than that). This is with the NiMh pack in.

So, there is NOT any kind of voltage regulating going on. A BEC is a voltage regulator.

The only thing that I can figure out what to do now is to somehow figure out how to measure torque from the Steering Servo and see if there is any difference. But in my mind, 6V = 6V. All that I can see happening is that maybe "somehow" by using slot 4 in the Rx you can get more amperage through. I'll email Associated back and see if they can explain in any more detail.

No need to email Associated. You are testing incorrectly. Here are a couple of pics which show the test, and confirm that the "Channel 4 Mod" does indeed work. There IS a BEC in the RX.

http://csgbenefits.org/4mod1.jpg

http://csgbenefits.org/4mod2.jpg

So, there it is, proof to everyone that the "Channel 4 Mod" works.......

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[StrokerAce]

This hobby just got much cooler. I tried my hand at a little porting work on the .28 in my MGT. Nothing drastic, just smoothed a burr or two out on the boost port and put a couple tear drops on each transfer port sweeping back toward the boost port. I also ground down two small rings raised up in the bottom of the crank bore where it meets the induction port, then polished the inside of the bore up. I polished up the counter balance aswell. I wish i and a digital camera, it was a real ugly job but worked! The engine runs slightly cooler, starts easy as ever. and really rips now. I was outside giving my work a test. About the fourth tank I had her leaned out good. The grass was a little wet from the snow/rain we had this morning and I was having a blast. Bow ties were not hooking up very good but the spinning was fun. I think if I had had the zombies on I would have been on my roof or rear wheels most of the time. Anyway the MGT was really flying. Then all of the sudden it happened. One bad pass. I came across the yard which is on the side of a mountain, rear end kicked out down hill. Next thing I know she hooks up and bam into the peach tree she goes. :( The right front tire must have took most of the impact. Snapped the ear off of the hub carrier that the turn buckle links too. First club race is tomorrow. We'll see how she holds up, if we don't get rained/snowed out.

[BC Don]

Chevy-SS, thanks for the post with pictures I'll have to do the same thing and recheck. When I checked mine, I had the battery connected into "B" and I measured at port 4 and I got 6+ volts. I'll go back and take some more readings and see what I come up with.

On another note, I'm on about tank #5 and was out just on the local street running back and forth continuing break in and it is going REALLY WELL. Can hardly wait to get out to the track. Was a bit too rich on the low end, engine kept stalling out but got that fixed OK. At first it wasn't shifting into Second and the engine temp was below 200. So I ended up about 3/4 of a turn in on the high speed and it was shifting fine. Although, engine temps were still a few degrees under 200. Next time out I'll put the body on and check again, I think I'll need to lean it out more though.

Now, do I go fly planes or helis or take out the truck?

[MikeWz]

what d you mean when you sayit is shimmed for 30%
There are shims...or a shim in the case of 20% (I think) that changes the compression ratio. When you jack up the nitro content (the power) you need to lower the compression ratio. You'd get detonation if you didn't run the extra shim for 30%. Buh Bye piston

BC Don - What helis do you have?

[Vmax911]

Wow, never thought I'd say this but...

Woo Hoo, my credit card has been charged!!!

Looks like my MGT is on the way :cool:

[BC Don]

BC Don - What helis do you have?

Well, 4 at this point.

1) Blade CX for in the house.

2) TRex for park flying in calm or very light wind.

3) Hawk Pro - 30 size but running a Toki 40.

5) Raven 50 with a 50SXH.

[MikeWz]

Sweet. Which Trex do you have? I've got the CDE, which I'm currently in the process of setting up. Just waiting for Futaba to start shipping out the S9650s again so I can snag one then I'll be all set. Used to have a Raptor 30 but it was too expensive for me to get all the stuff for it at that point so I sold it. Would like to eventually get an R60

[BC Don]

Can't remember the "initials" but it is the TRex with CCPM. I've started to bling it out a bit.

[BC Don]

Regardless of where I test in the radio and regardless of where I put the battery I always get 6V. So, still don't know what the big deal is about plugging into Channel 4.

[MikeWz]

Regardless of where I test in the radio and regardless of where I put the battery I always get 6V. So, still don't know what the big deal is about plugging into Channel 4.
You are still running the reciever that came with the truck right?

[fishstix]

Does anyone run their truck with the spektrum? How do you like it? Do you have your truck set up for racing and/or bashing? Thanks in advance.

[BC Don]

You are still running the reciever that came with the truck right?

Yup, I'm still running the original Rx. BUT, I have found out something. In playing around and trying to get pictures I reached a point where when I plugged into the "B" Channel the radio wouldn't work. But, plugging into channel #4 all worked well.

So, I'm not screwing aorund measuring anymore, I'll just run with what I have.

[BC Don]

Does anyone run their truck with the spektrum? How do you like it? Do you have your truck set up for racing and/or bashing? Thanks in advance.

I'd like to know if anyone is using the Spektrum as well. I'm interested in getting the 3 channel radio with the two receivers. In fact I would have prefered to purchase the MGT as a kit and get the radio separate.

[metalry101]

I'd like to know if anyone is using the Spektrum as well. I'm interested in getting the 3 channel radio with the two receivers. In fact I would have prefered to purchase the MGT as a kit and get the radio separate.
I just put a Spektrum reciever into my rig. I haven't had a chance to run the MGT on Spektrum yet, but I've been running it in my BK2 for a few months now...and my LST and TNX have had it for a month or two now as well. I have yet to have any problems with it in any of those vehicles.

[StrokerAce]

I have the old, slow spektrum system. :rolleyes: No complaints out of me. It's hooked to a M11 and makes the MGT very responsive.

[Chevy-SS]

Regardless of where I test in the radio and regardless of where I put the battery I always get 6V. So, still don't know what the big deal is about plugging into Channel 4.

Well, first off, you should be testing the "receiver" not the "radio"..... Plugging battery into Channel 4 slot of the stock Associated receiver gives you more power to servos. That's the "big deal"...... Works every time

[BC Don]

Well, first off, you should be testing the "receiver" not the "radio"..... Plugging battery into Channel 4 slot of the stock Associated receiver gives you more power to servos. That's the "big deal"...... Works every time

Yup, should have said "Radio Receiver" I suppose, guess I was in a hurry. Anyway, my original testing on the Rx with the battery plugged into "B" showed 6.2V on Channel 4 and Channel 2 (I checked both). Plugging the battery into Channel 4 showed 6.2V on Channel 2 and "B".

After playing around with it two nights ago, attempting to get pictures with one hand while holding voltmeter probes with my other two hands I musta shorted out something because now when I plug into "B" I don't get any Voltage across the rest of the Rx but when I plug into Channel 4 I get the 6.2V across Channel 2. SO, I'm not playing with it anymore.

All I wanted to know is what was in the Rx circuit that would create the effect of having more power plugged into channel 4. Associated replied saying I would but would not tell me why and with my testing there wasn't anything that jumped out and told me why.

I have seen the earlier post where someone else measured at Channel 2 and got less voltage when the battery pack was plugged into "B" but that wasn't my experience and I was wondering whether Associated has made a change in the Rx or whether I got a defective one.

Regardless, I'll be running with the battery in Channel 4 now (because I have to) and may upgrade to the Spektrum unit at some time.

[oggydog]

I have a question on the 4.60 stock engine that came with the MGT. I only put about 6 tanks through it and it seems to be doing good. I just want to know will it idle good or not I am still running rich Its been cold and it did not seem to idle very good. Is this a good motor or is it trouble.I am looking at the OS .30 and the LRP Z.28R spec 2.But I do not want to get a motor this soon unless I am certain I have to chase the needles all day with the stock motor.Please any info would be great.

[BC Don]

I have a question on the 4.60 stock engine that came with the MGT. I only put about 6 tanks through it and it seems to be doing good. I just want to know will it idle good or not I am still running rich Its been cold and it did not seem to idle very good. Is this a good motor or is it trouble.I am looking at the OS .30 and the LRP Z.28R spec 2.But I do not want to get a motor this soon unless I am certain I have to chase the needles all day with the stock motor.Please any info would be great.


Did you mean the 4.8? I've run about 5 tanks through and my last tank was nice and smooth once warmed up and I was running at about +5C (40F). I had the idle turned up so that the truck was "just about" moving but not quite. I did have to lean out the bottom end a bit to make sure it would keep idling, when it was too rich it'd stop abruptly. Engine temps were just under 200F as I ran this tank through so I'm slowly leaning it out still on the high end.

For break in, I broke it in like I do my airplane engines. I set it up nice and rich and on the first tank I open the throttle wide open for 10 seconds then back to idle for 10 seconds. I have the car propped up so the wheels are off the ground. I just keep repeating this for the first tank. Then tank #2 I lean it out a bit and repeat. I make sure the head temps are in the 220 to 270 range which may mean I don't run it at quite the 10 seconds. But when I did this the outside temps weren't much more than a bit above freezing.

Don't know if this method is appropriate or not. The wheels sure do get spinning fast, to the point where they act like drag racing tires, they increase in circumference. :eek:

[oggydog]

Are their o-rings in the needles mine are a little hard to turn not super hard just harder then I am use to.

BC don it is the stock motor that came with the truck .28 (4.6cc)

[metalry101]

For break in, I broke it in like I do my airplane engines. I set it up nice and rich and on the first tank I open the throttle wide open for 10 seconds then back to idle for 10 seconds. I have the car propped up so the wheels are off the ground. I just keep repeating this for the first tank. Then tank #2 I lean it out a bit and repeat. I make sure the head temps are in the 220 to 270 range which may mean I don't run it at quite the 10 seconds. But when I did this the outside temps weren't much more than a bit above freezing.

Don't know if this method is appropriate or not. The wheels sure do get spinning fast, to the point where they act like drag racing tires, they increase in circumference. :eek:
Apparently you didn't read any of the literature that came with the truck explaining how to break an engine in? Car engines are very, very different from airplane engines, and very few of them are meant to be broken in by running them at full throttle...

[Chevy-SS]

Are their o-rings in the needles mine are a little hard to turn not super hard just harder then I am use to.............

Oggy, when it gets real hard to adjust the needles, it's often best to remove the carb and dis-assemble it completely. If you can barely turn the needles, then this typically starts tearing the rubber o-rings and little pieces of rubber get in the orifices, which means your engine runs like crap, or won't run at all. So take the carb all apart and clean it real good, then re-assemble with a little grease on the o-riungs and you'll be good to go.

Of course, note the positions of the needles prior to dis-assembly so you can re-assemble with the needles in the original positions.....................

-

[Vmax911]

Alright guys,

I got my MGT from Ultimate a couple days ago. I didn't see any information on any "revised" head or recommended 30% nitro fuel. One piece of literature said use 15-30% nitro, another recommended only using 10-20% for long engine life. I'd be interested to hear if there is a new revised version (maybe I just got an old one).

Anyhow, I was going to lock-tite all the pins, but found them very difficult to remove (I need to get some metric hex drivers), so will leave them alone for now. I tried to shim the rear diff, and only got one shim in there. Maybe this will loosen up a bit after breakin. Also, I tried to install my airtronics 358 for steering, but found the stock servo saver is only for futaba, and no others were included :mad: .

Will any heavy duty servo saver work. I see there was a part listing for an airtonics saver in the literature with the truck, but I'm pretty sure I won't find the AE one locally.

I hope to have time to start break in tonight.

[BC Don]

Apparently you didn't read any of the literature that came with the truck explaining how to break an engine in? Car engines are very, very different from airplane engines, and very few of them are meant to be broken in by running them at full throttle...

It would be truer to say I didn't follow the break in instructions. I did in fact read every piece of material I could. However, being in a situation where I wanted to break it in "somehow" and there being snow all over the place I chose to go with what I knew.

Yes, Car engines 1) Run at higher RPM and 2) Have a MUCH larger heat sink on them. But, they are still ABN engines which require that they get up to operating temperature during break in.

In any case, we'll see what it's like over the summer. If I screwed up and it doesn't have the power it should then that just lets me get another engine (hotter one). At least these aren't 4 stroke $400 plane engines.

[BC Don]

Just a question. When I get things tuned with the stock setup, does the MGT wheelie?

Also, can I do a stoppy? If so how? I've changed the brake "spring" for a piece of fuel tubing so in dirt and gravel it will lock up and skid to a stop. I figure that's pretty good but if there is something easy I can do so that it'll lift up the rear tires when stopping I'd like to know.

[MikeWz]

. But, they are still ABN engines which require that they get up to operating temperature during break in.

It's actually an ABC engine, nobody really uses ABN anymore for the car motors. You can't except much past 3 gallons on an ABN motor (for a car, I know they last much longer in airplanes), but I've had ABC motors last me a bit over 6 gallons, even on full-out racing.
270* sounds way high for breaking in a motor to me. Sure there's the heat cycle method if you want to argue that, but I'm sure that doesn't get past 220-230 degrees as well. The trick with breaking in an engine is that you don't want to get it too hot, but you can't let it be too cool. You don't really want to fall below 200* because then the sleeve isn't expanded correctly and that's added wear. If you're running too hot there's most definitely not enough lubricant and so you're still adding to wear. Even when I have mine set-up a little too rich it won't let me shift into second gear and running full throttle gets my temps to about 230. I feel like normal operating temp for me is like 250-260

[BC Don]

Ah well, I'm past break in now, we'll see what happens. After a couple of tanks when I put it on the road it wouldn't shift to 2nd Until I leaned it out a bit and at that point it was still under 200.

In reading through the O/S page, their newer engines seem to use ABL technology instead of ABC (Advanced Bi-Metallic Layer).

[MikeWz]

I haven't seen ABL yet, that's interesting. Fantom used to use ABSC, which IMO was better because it always ran cooler, but people used to toast those because you had to be extremely careful during break-in.

[Chevy-SS]

........

Will any heavy duty servo saver work. I see there was a part listing for an airtonics saver in the literature with the truck, but I'm pretty sure I won't find the AE one locally. .

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAKE0&P=7

There's a decent one that will do the job. Also, it's a good idea to put bearings in the steering posts, like in this pic:

http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/normal_cranks3.jpg


-

[BC Don]

ABL "sounds" like what the Motorcycle industry has been using for awhile. they use a ceramic material as well as stuff like "Nikaseal" (sp is wrong). By using these new materials, they are able to create surfaces that are more slippery and harder and thus less breakin (if any). Also, the tolerances can be much closer than in the past.

[Brian23]

i wanted more stopping power on my mgt and i know of the piece of fuel tubing insteasd of the spring but is there anything else i can do besides upgrading the servo?

[MikeWz]

The hardcore racing "robo" brake works real well. I've got one on mine and noticed a significant amount more stopping power. I'm really happy with it

[Vmax911]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAKE0&P=7

There's a decent one that will do the job. Also, it's a good idea to put bearings in the steering posts, like in this pic:


-

Thanks for the response. The servo saver you linked to has two offset holes (not one in the middle like the stock one). Do you just offset the steering trim to make it straight, or do you replace the stock fixed link with some type of adjustable turnbuckle?

[Vmax911]

Also, I remember someone here had suggested putting zip ties on the bumpers for reinforcement. Are those added after the original screws are stripped/lost, or will it help prevent good screws from stripping out before a crash?

[Chevy-SS]

Thanks for the response. The servo saver you linked to has two offset holes (not one in the middle like the stock one). Do you just offset the steering trim to make it straight, or do you replace the stock fixed link with some type of adjustable turnbuckle?

You can easily drill a new hole in the center. Or just rotate the saver until it lines up. It will look crooked, but it will work fine.

It's important to have the steering aligned as close to perfect as possible. This would be the correct order of assembly:

1) bolt the steering link to the new servo in any of the holes
2) turn on radio and center the steering servo
3) set the wheels straight (by hand)
4) install servo saver onto servo


Here's a good page that talks about steering in detail. Be sure and do the "Steering Tune Up" located about halfway down the page:
http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/maxsteering.htm


-

[Chevy-SS]

i wanted more stopping power on my mgt and i know of the piece of fuel tubing insteasd of the spring but is there anything else i can do besides upgrading the servo?

Biggest things are:

1) adjustment - it needs to be spot-on
2) clean - any oil on brake and it won't work. Nitro fuel has oil in it. Get some spray brake cleaner from auto store and hose down the brake assembly. Stock brakes work awesome when clean and adjusted.

I typically upgrade steering servo, then move stock steering servo to brake/throttle position. That helps too...............

[Vmax911]

I was able to get a few tanks in today, so I break-in is over. I do have a couple questions.

How the heck do you get the shock caps off? I have the Factory Team caps, and was going to swap them out. However, I couldn't get the stock plastic caps off. The plastic "hex" (near the top of the body) is so puny it is easily crushed. I could probably use vice grips on the shock body itself, but I don't want to damage them. Any suggestions, or should I just wait for them to blow off? :)

Second question: The truck is feeling pretty responsive off idle to 1/2 throttle. However, from 1/2 throttle to full throttle, the engine doesn't really seem to respond. Is this due to still running rich, or a characteristic of the engine?

[Brian23]

my engine does the same thing...

[Chevy-SS]

Vmax, for getting shock caps off, take the shocks out and springs off. Try a 5/8" box-end wrench to hold body, with pliers gripping the cap by the flat spots where the mounting screw goes through. That should get it off. If the wrench slips (or the shock hex is already rounded), then clean the shock body off so it isn't slippery and then hold it firmly in hand while loosening cap. Wrap a piece of rubber around it if you need a better grip.

Your engine issue sounds like it's too rich on the HSN. But rather than get into a long post, go to this great site for tuning tips and read up:
http://www.rchobbies.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm

You'll probably be popping wheelies after you read that stuff.

;)

-

[Vmax911]

my engine does the same thing...

Is your engine past the break in period?

[Vmax911]

Chevy-SS -

Thanks for the great tips (as always). You keep us 'MGT newbs' running!

[sl9mk]

I've been looking at hump packs for my new MGT on eBay and Tower. What type of end does it need to have? I have seen BEC ends, Futaba J ends, and Hitec, JR, etc. ends. Which do I need? It looks like the HPI hump pack has an adapter, but I have also seen some on eBay that are 2500 mah that I kind of like that use Sanyo cells and they are $30 with charger. Any suggestions?

Shane

[LD3Furious]

SL9MK- It may depend on the Rx you are using. Most of today's Rx's have universal slots, meaning, you can use most any connector. The battery has only two pins, unlike the servos which have three...in most cases, you can snip off ( carefully ) the part of the connector that does not have a wire/pin attached to it.

Now I need help...
Does anyone know if there's a way to use a smaller (52 tooth) spur with the RRP slipper? The gear that comes with the kit is 54 tooth. I am currently running a 16T bell, and I know I can (in theory) use a larger bell, but it doesn't look like one will fit with the larger RRP spur. The engine is already almost as far back as I can set it. Right now, I have some serious stump pulling bottom, but it is severely lacking on top.

[Brian23]

yea its broken in.. mine engine doesnt do exaclty the same thiing but it kdina sounds like it loses power at full throttle

[sl9mk]

I'm using the stock Rx.

[MikeWz]

Than you can use the standard BEC plug...or an Airtronics plug..which I believe is negative shift.

[StrokerAce]

SL9MK- It may depend on the Rx you are using. Most of today's Rx's have universal slots, meaning, you can use most any connector. The battery has only two pins, unlike the servos which have three...in most cases, you can snip off ( carefully ) the part of the connector that does not have a wire/pin attached to it.

Now I need help...
Does anyone know if there's a way to use a smaller (52 tooth) spur with the RRP slipper? The gear that comes with the kit is 54 tooth. I am currently running a 16T bell, and I know I can (in theory) use a larger bell, but it doesn't look like one will fit with the larger RRP spur. The engine is already almost as far back as I can set it. Right now, I have some serious stump pulling bottom, but it is severely lacking on top.
I haven't done any dremel work to the engine mount holes yet... I've got a 18t Ofna hardened/vented bell with the 54t RRP slipper on my MGT right now. The motor is all the way back though and is a tight squeeze. Gear mesh has been great for the last half gallon or so. The 18t CB really helped the top end out.

[RDucky02]

long time MGT owner, havent posted in about 9 months or so.... guess i got lost eh... school took over my life... anyway, spring/summer is coming and im thinking about adding another truck to my collection. wondering besides the MGT what other MT's you have and how they compare to it or any thoughts... any responses are appreciated. thanks

[oggydog]

I would like to know what other plugs would work in the picco .28, would an mc-59 work. ofna plugs seem to be a little high in price so any help would be great.

[Vmax911]

I got the MGT out today and had a pretty good bashing session at a construction site. I'm still getting used to it and experienced several cart wheels and 'back' flops (think of a belly flop). Other than a bent roll bar and a beat up body, there was no damage.

My question has to do with the back flops. It seems once the roll bar is bent, the engine head takes most of the impact from this ungraceful stunt. Does anyone know if there is some type of ridgid head protector, without going the full roll cage route?

[metalry101]

I would like to know what other plugs would work in the picco .28, would an mc-59 work. ofna plugs seem to be a little high in price so any help would be great.
Any standard plug should work. I run McCoy MC-9's with Odonnell 30% RTR fuel in all of my big blocks.

[metalry101]

long time MGT owner, havent posted in about 9 months or so.... guess i got lost eh... school took over my life... anyway, spring/summer is coming and im thinking about adding another truck to my collection. wondering besides the MGT what other MT's you have and how they compare to it or any thoughts... any responses are appreciated. thanks
I've got a Savage, an LST, and a TNX in addition to my MGT. All of them kick ass, but honestly, I think my Savage (with a few mods ;) ) will STOMP all of my other trucks. I haven't really gotten to drive them back to back yet, buuut...well...my Savage is about as bad as it gets. I don't think you could lose with any of the trucks I have though, I love all of them. Out of the box, the LST2 is head and shoulders above every other truck on the market IMO. The Savage is the best beater truck, and with some mods, it's a great race truck. The Revo is a pretty cool race truck, and with some grabbier tires, a FOC, various weight shaving mods (1 steering servo, pullstart, etc), and lower gearing, it's a great basher. The TNX is a lot like the MGT, a great all around truck that isn't the best at anything but does everything well.

Maybe I'll take some pics of my fleet and get them posted some time. They're pretty impressive if I do say so myself, especially the Savage.

[MikeWz]

Vmax - Get some good sized zipties and put 4 of them on the cooling head. I try to keep the big square part you pull them through on the top, and pull them as tight as I can. This should stop..or at least minimize any damaged the head might otherwise have recieved. I don't even run a roll bar on mine and haven't had any problems since I put the zip ties on. My cooling head is actually cracked because I ran without the roll bar. First run...off a jump...right on the cooling head. Not even from that high, but the truck is so damn heavy it doesn't even matter

[Vmax911]

Yeah, the weight of the truck is what bothers me when landing on the head. I actually have six zipties on the head. I managed to break two of them during my acrobatic session, so I know they absorbed some of the impact. I was just wondering if there was anything else people used. I think the best idea would be landing right-side-up!

[RDucky02]

I was once a Tmaxx owner of the original TRX .15, which i upgraded to the 2.5 when it came out. first tank after breaking it in I took it to behind a high school. their dumpsters were in a cut out in a hill. the dirt was held back by wood. so it was a grass/dirt jump and then dumpsters, and then the other side of the hill... anyway, i didnt know anything about jumping at the time, i just kept the throttle pegged. the trunk hit the 12x12's lining holding the dirt back, right on the roof of the truck. my cooling head shattered, the crankcase was okay, and the fuel tank cracked in half. other than that other basic stuff but it was my worst accident to date. but it was sooo cool to hear the cooling head shatter.

[oggydog]

Any one here use an after market engine mount for the mgt ? The picco .28 does not like the stock 4.60 mount the case is wider at the bottom on the picco.I have it in there but there is a lot more stress on the mount now.So any body know where I can get a good engine mount a little wider ?

[Chevy-SS]

Any one here use an after market engine mount for the mgt ? The picco .28 does not like the stock 4.60 mount the case is wider at the bottom on the picco.I have it in there but there is a lot more stress on the mount now.So any body know where I can get a good engine mount a little wider ?

Interesting. I haven't heard this comment before. I've used all kinds of engines in my MGT's and they all pop in pretty easy.

Can you just Dremel off a little bit to get a nice fit?

-

[LD3Furious]

Im using this, in blue. I don't know if it will help you, but for the price, might be worth looking into.
http://www.rcxshop.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_29&products_id=531

[oggydog]

Interesting. I haven't heard this comment before. I've used all kinds of engines in my MGT's and they all pop in pretty easy.

Can you just Dremel off a little bit to get a nice fit?

-


I used the dremel a little on the mount itself and not wanting to go much further seems to be a little weak to begin with. I thought about using it a little on the case but not sure if that would be a good idea I got the motor in there now. I used to screws and tightened a little at a time on each one and it went. I think it may have spread the ears a little but it is in there. just figured I would look around for an after market mount a little wider.

I am done with break in and tuned a little and boy what a difference a picco makes this is my first picco and I am impressed running only at 200 degrees,stock gearing,50wt oil in the rear shocks along with red (stiff) springs it will pull the front off the ground part of the time and I still need to tune more. Man for the money I am happy.I saw how much every one loved the .27 and this replaced it that is why I got this one. During break in it did not die any until I shut it down to cool between tanks.After cool down fired right back up and still did not quite. I had a heck of a time with the revo 2.5R just during break in.

Is the picco .28 made by SH cause there is a hex under the pull start on a shaft that runs inside the case in there is the one-way. I think on the .27 the one-way is on the outside of the case. I know there are 2 one ways on the stock tt.28 and not a fan of that motor at all. I would think the one-way being on the out side of the case would be better then inside what is your opinion. Or I maybe totally wrong.

LD3Furious I may need to try that mount thanks a lot for the link..

[LD3Furious]

YW and as for the stock .28...I had mine modded by TNT. Ive got approx 1 1/2 gal through it now. Changed the gearing to 18/49 and MAN! lemme tell ya this thing is a beast :)I figured, I could either try to dump the engine on Ebay , maybe get $100 if I was lucky, then spend another 2-300 for a Picco, Collari, Axial...or whatever engine...or I could get the stock modded for only $100. So far, I am extremely pleased with my mod :) :D

[metalry101]

The Picco is definately not made by SH. It's made by Picco, and I agree, they're AWESOME engines. I've got a Picco .26 in my Savage and the .27 in my LST.

As for the one-way question...it's better protected inside the engine, so I'd rather have it there. Oh...the .26, .27, and .28 Piccos all use the same one-way and the same pull-start. They all have internal one-ways.

Anyways...glad to hear you're happy with that Picco. I know I'm very, very happy with both of mine. :D

[MikeWz]

Anyone happen to know what size the axel bearings are? Mine are shot (and unfortunately probably have been for some time) so I figured I'd pick up some of Acer's ceramic bearings for them. I don't have my manual nor will my inernet let me load it from their site so I can check on the size.

[jimbonj]

Anyone happen to know what size the axel bearings are? Mine are shot (and unfortunately probably have been for some time) so I figured I'd pick up some of Acer's ceramic bearings for them. I don't have my manual nor will my inernet let me load it from their site so I can check on the size.


Here ya go Mike:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFUS9&P=Z

[MikeWz]

Thanks Jim

Hope to have some Acer bearings and a Collari .32 sometime in the semi-near future. Will let you guys know how the motor works out. Don't see many people post on it around these parts

[metalry101]

Why go to ceramic bearings on a monster truck? If you're having trouble with bearings, I'd go for something bigger. Like...say...RPM bearing carriers for a Maxx. You need RPM's little optional hardware kit thing...but it's not expensive, and those are much bigger than the stock bearings, and the hub itself (a traditional weakpoint of the MGT) is much stronger as well. It's hard to lose. I've got them on my truck.

[MikeWz]

Not having problems with them really, they just locked up because I used to hose down the truck and just towel dry...which, needless to say, doesn't really dry the bearings at all. Ceramic Bearings are amazing. They stand up to higher RPMs/higher heat significantly better than standard bearings, and they've got significantly less resistance. I figured with stonger and free'er...if that's a word...you can't lose. I had the full kit for my Maxx when I had it and it was awesome. The bearings were pretty much maint free. They're sealed real well so nothing can get in either, and the chances of loosing the seal is basically null.

[Brian23]

can anyone point me in the direction of a good dremel? If so what brand and how much did it cost. I saw one for 42 dollarrs at the hardware store today

[Brian23]

one more question- i fixed a striped spur and melted slipper a coulple days ago. But now that i have put a new one in it was starting to melt when i was just going slow. I was just getting the hang of tuning the engine becaues om still pretty much a noob at tuning engines. I really hate having the people at the lhs fix stuff for me because i like 2 do it myself. But im confused on the spur and slipper why its melting?

[MikeWz]

Sounds like the nut on the slipper isn't tightened down enough. If it's too loose it'll just constantly slip while you drive. The slipper on our trucks isn't meant for traction as much as saving the spur and other drive-train parts so much from when you land a jump on power...or even go through a rather bumpy section on power.

As for a dremel, this is what I have:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXC505&P=ML
Sure it's a bit pricey but I've never had a problem with it, and it comes with 10 attachments. And, it's corded which I like much better than cordless. I hate being in the middle of something and having the battery run out

[Brian23]

ya thats probably the case. I had loosend it up so i didnt strip anything landing big jumps. Since its just a little melted in the middle can i still run it?

[MikeWz]

You have to check the little pegs that go into the gear. If they're in good shape, you should be good to go. You could order some more friction pegs and that'll help it stop slipping too. I did that when I had my T-maxx. I filled all the holes in with friction pegs and I liked the way it felt better.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFUA6&P=7

[Brian23]

thanks for the info. Helped alot mike :)

[Chevy-SS]

For the Dremel tool, just go to Home Depot. They have a nice one, in a good case, and it comes with a ton of bits already. I think it's about $80..............

You really NEED the carry case, as you will find yourself adding different bit sizes and you gotta have some way to keep them all organized.

This is definitely the ONE tool that every RC'er needs to have..........

-

[MikeWz]

This is definitely the ONE tool that every RC'er needs to have..........

-

Don't forget the duct tape ;)

[Vmax911]

Brian23 -

Check out the Craftsman brand of dremels. They seem to be of great quality and cheaper than dremel. I got the Craftsman version of the one MikeWz linked to about 4 years ago on sale for about $40.

[metalry101]

You have to check the little pegs that go into the gear. If they're in good shape, you should be good to go. You could order some more friction pegs and that'll help it stop slipping too. I did that when I had my T-maxx. I filled all the holes in with friction pegs and I liked the way it felt better.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFUA6&P=7
I believe you can also run the Traxxas pegs, which are a lot cheaper. You get 12 of them for less than AE wants for 6. Part number TRA4685 if you want to try it.

[LD3Furious]

The Traxxas ones are just a tiny lil tick smaller, but they will work fine. I am using them on my slipper :)

[metalry101]

The Traxxas ones are just a tiny lil tick smaller, but they will work fine. I am using them on my slipper :)
Cool, thanks. I thought I'd used them before, but it's been a while so I couldn't remember for sure. Thanks for the confirmation. :)

[Vmax911]

Hey guys,

I just tried to install a side mount header on my MGT, and pretty much destroyed the gasket. It seems that the header is just to small to fit over the gasket, and while trying to get it on I tore it. Am I doing something wrong here?

[LD3Furious]

Hmmm...I can't speak for the AE MGT header 'cause I didn't use that. I did use the LST header for mine and had no problems. See if maybe you can get one of them if all else fails.

[metalry101]

Hey guys,

I just tried to install a side mount header on my MGT, and pretty much destroyed the gasket. It seems that the header is just to small to fit over the gasket, and while trying to get it on I tore it. Am I doing something wrong here?
Call AE and tell them about your problem. The old .21 had a smaller exhaust port than what is standard on today's big blocks, and you got the header made for it. I know AE released a new version of the header with the 4.60 that should fit other engines, but now I can't find it. Perhaps they came out with it for a few months and then just did away with the old one all together. I'm not sure, but I'd call AE and tell them about your problem and ask them if you can get one of the newer headers. If all else fails, stock LST pipes and headers flow quite well, as does the THS 1/8 on-road pipe/header combo. That's what I run on my truck...wow. It's more than a little kickass.

[StrokerAce]

I tore my header gasket too when I switched over to a side mount pipe. If you have the little blue exhaust deflector tube still, cut a chunk off of the end and use that as a new gasket. It's still a tight fit, but should work.

[Vmax911]

I tore my header gasket too when I switched over to a side mount pipe. If you have the little blue exhaust deflector tube still, cut a chunk off of the end and use that as a new gasket. It's still a tight fit, but should work.

Thanks, that little tip worked great! I also took off a little of the inside of the flange with a dremel. No exhaust leaks at all today!

[hyperstang]

Hey guys....

I just got a Monster GT for a basher, does anyone know if the HPI 4.6K motor or the OS 30 works for the MGT?

Which OS 30 would go with it??

thanks

[metalry101]

Either of those engines will bolt right in (but you'll need to stretch the throttle linkage a little since the carb setup on the stock engine is kinda weird). I run the HPI engine in mine and it works great, but it's overpriced for what it is, and the carb sucks. As for the O.S. .30, well it rocks. You want the X version. The SR version is for the Savage. You could put it in your truck, but you'd have to buy an HPI one way bearing and pull-start, or roto-startm, which means a lot more money. The X is ready to bolt in with an O.S. pull-start already on the engine.

[oggydog]

hyperstang don't forget about the picco .28 and also the lrp Z.28R spec 2 those are good engines. I have the picco .28 and it rocks lots of power and check out this months car action for the dyno on the LRP brake horsepower was 2.79 lots of power for only $169.99 the picco is a little more $199.99 both on tower (LRP should be in stock this week) and with the promotional code on the home page you could save $15 on the LRP or $25 off the picco use the $200 code for it.

REVO 3.3 should arrive this week and the MGT is fully broken in and boy what a blast to drive right now working on the old 2.5R revo put some moab tires and mambo wheels on it also replaced some plastic parts looks almost new. What a fun hobby this is only problem is it is hard to explain to the wife why I have to have this or that any ideas :D

[marctroy]

When I started to get a little "out of hand" with my RC collection I had all the bodies painted with the same colors and graphics and that "con" kept the little Mrs. from realizing just how many I had - at least until I made the fatal error of having two out at once - then the jig was up!

Now I have to hide them wherever I can and there are probably some that I'll never find again...

[hyperstang]

When I started to get a little "out of hand" with my RC collection I had all the bodies painted with the same colors and graphics and that "con" kept the little Mrs. from realizing just how many I had - at least until I made the fatal error of having two out at once - then the jig was up!

Now I have to hide them wherever I can and there are probably some that I'll never find again...

I think that I might have to give the Picco a chance. Is this a drop in and am I able to use the rotostart with the engine??

thanks

[oggydog]

I think that I might have to give the Picco a chance. Is this a drop in and am I able to use the rotostart with the engine??

thanks

well in my case it was not a drop in I had to dremel a little of the motor mount on the inside for the engine case to fit.It is not hard but not a drop in. Unless you have an after market motor mount it may drop right in one of them. I use the ofna shaft start on mine and works great.

[RDucky02]

i run the ofna picco .26 and the truck is plenty powerful. i didnt have to modify anythying, it was a straight drop in. just a thought, anyway

i am looking for some new tires and wheels for this year, i ripped the 40 series big joes off the left rear and reglued it after sanding away the old stuff, still came off again. wondering what you guys have as ur setup and what you think of it, or if youve seen any really awesome combos.

[2mcgrath]

anyone know which buggy to use the wing mount from to modify to fit on the mgt?im going to get the crowd pleazer body and run a buggy wing.but need to know if any of you guys have done it.and from which buggy you used the wing mount.

[badboy2]

i bought the wing mount from new era and the rear shock tower
http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/5813/dsc020267fj.jpg
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/1624/dsc020299wz.jpg

[hyperstang]

I need to do that...what is the web address to order those? Do you also need to buy the rear shock tower??

thanks

[LD3Furious]

I've read that the S3 wing mount works. I have the buggy too...but havn't looked into that yet.

[2mcgrath]

i love the way the wing looks on the truck..are there any options besides aluminum rear shock tower for the wing?because mine will be for racing and kinda want to keep the weight down as much as possible.thanks for the replies and the pics.and by the way nice truck.ld3 i will take a look into the s3 and see if it would work.i will also check out new era's site

[2mcgrath]

http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=2877
theres a link to the wing mount hyperstang i found them.thanks for the help

[jmcn r]

Hello everyone,
I have a set of Pro Line Lunsford Punisher Turnbuckles for the Tmaxx 2.5 sitting artound and I was wondering if by any chance they would fit on the MGT?

The Lunsfords measure 105mm in front and 115mm in rear....compared to the MGT which I just checked up on online thats say 111mm in front and 127 in rear.

Has anyone tried before?

thanks in advance :)

[hyperstang]

What header do I use to make the pipe go off to the side of the engine...

Thanks

[badboy2]

i use the lst header/pipe and i cut out the stoneguards

[RDucky02]

i use the side mount manifold from AE with a HPI ribbed pipe. and then for the pipe stay wire i just bent one to fit.

[MikeWz]

JMCN - It's possible, but it sounds a bit too short to me, like you have some rediuclous toe-in. You MIGHT be able to thread the rod-ends out a little, but then your weakening them and it might be too much to make up the difference, but might as well give it a shot if you've already got them lying around.

As for side header, I also use the one AE has. They also make a wire for the side-exhaust but I just bent a hanger wire because they're free :D

[DarkSavage]

Hey bad boy any chance of you getting apic with the body on? i was considering to get a new era wing set for my savage.

[Brian23]

picked up some team integy screwdriver- its night n day compared to the L wrenches. And what does a side header/pipe do for performance?

[badboy2]

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7796/dsc020271ah.jpg
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/6844/randompics0348or.jpg
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/1299/randompics0280ag.jpg
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/525/randompics0295un.jpg

i actually i did it wrong i got so excited and cut the rear part of the body to make it fit...i could have just made a hole to where the wing mount is gonna be located and i could just slide it in..just like on my lst ;)

[MikeWz]

picked up some team integy screwdriver- its night n day compared to the L wrenches. And what does a side header/pipe do for performance?

Perforamce wise, nothing in and of itself. But it gives you more pipe options. I'm running a Fantom pipe, and it's too long to run in the back, it doesn't fit. Also, You avoid that whole exhaust coupler that constantly rips and then spews exhaust directly onto the rear A-arm.

[Brian23]

thanks for the info- and do pipes make a big difference in performance? can you tell me a good pipe that isnt like of 50 dollars

[badboy2]

thanks for the info- and do pipes make a big difference in performance? can you tell me a good pipe that isnt like of 50 dollars


it make a difference i think that fantom pipe is less than 50 or if not buy the lst pipe and header from the bay..they go for less than 50 ..
brian do u race at all?theres a track being built here in east brunswick..u can check info about it at track/buddy locator forum or check on my posts ;) ..where in bergen cty are u from?

[marctroy]

badboy2,
I'm usually in East Brunswick 1 or 2 days a week on business so I'm interested in where this track is being built. Is it associated with a local hobby shop?

[slaf]

.... I have the picco .28 and it rocks lots of power ...

Any drivetrain issues with this engine ??? I just bought one and I didn't run it yet...

[jmcn r]

JMCN - It's possible, but it sounds a bit too short to me, like you have some rediuclous toe-in. You MIGHT be able to thread the rod-ends out a little, but then your weakening them and it might be too much to make up the difference, but might as well give it a shot if you've already got them lying around.

As for side header, I also use the one AE has. They also make a wire for the side-exhaust but I just bent a hanger wire because they're free :D


thanks mike :) much appreciated.

i can concur with the thought on the use of the standard side pipe instead of the ae contraption. a guy i know tried it with and without an exhaust deflector and all it did was discolour one area more than an other. either the wheel/tyre...or the a arm.

just this weekend he actually tore a tyre thanks to that setup!

should have listened to me and gone side pipe.

[metalry101]

If you're looking for a nice side exhaust setup and don't mind spending a little cash to get something quality, look into the THS 1/8 on-road setup. At $60 it's not cheap, but it's a complete exhaust system. Header, pipe, both gaskets, springs, everything. Oh...and as an added bonus, it's really pretty.

[Chevy-SS]

Cheap, easy and effective side exhaust for MGT is buy a complete setup for LST on eBay. Usually costs around $20 for brand new header, pipe and springs......... I got a couple of these and they work good. They stick out to side a little further than stock, so you maybe gotta do a little body trimming, but not totally necessary.

Another fabulous side pipe for MGT is the XTM Mammoth pipe. This pipe works GREAT.


-

[carcass227]

[B]NEW AND IMPROVED A-ARM BRACKETS



Get on the wagon and order your newly modded A-Arm brackets. These will be by far the best upgrade for the MGT. Please read the topic,

http://www.monstergtforum.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9081 if you havent already and see for your self. Please go to the topic,

http://www.monstergtforum.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9173 to let The Dude know what you want.


Don't delay, Order today!!

I know this is from the Monster GT forum but I just want to spread the word and help all of us MGT owners. There will be more upgrades coming soon.

[Brian23]

hey badboy- i got the link to the other forumn about the track. Seems it should be done within the month? Im in bergen county. Where is this track that is being built?
No i dont race but i really would love to. I have a bone stock mgt 4.6 with a failsafe. I was hoping to just go to a track to practice to start. Not to race yet.

[marctroy]

Brian,

Here's all the information you'll need: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4033271/anchors_4033271/mpage_1/key_brunswick/anchor/tm.htm#4033271 .

I just wish I didn't live so far away (in Manhattan) so I could help and participate on a regular basis, but I'll probably be joining anyway if for no reason other than to lend some financial support...

[badboy2]

where in bergen are u from brian?have tried dirtrunners?u can go there on none racedays and run ur truck..ill keep u posted as soon as the track is done..

[hyperstang]

My Monster GT just came in today, plan to break it in on Monday sometime. Looks like a must upgrade for this BFT. Even though she is strictly for BASHING!!!!

AAWWWRIIITTTEEE!!!!

Race on...

[Brian23]

do you know wher eany of these towns are? Montvale woodcliff lake? Park ridge westwood? Ramsey. I live in park ridge though. the lhs i go to (Cruizing with Rc's) told me about dirtrunners but my parents dont wanna drive to far.

[sl9mk]

I just stripped a screw out of my rear differential. It is the one that holds the tie rod end to the differential on the left side. It won't tighten now, obviously. Anyone have a fix without having to replace the diff case? I thought about using a longer screw to get back into some meat, but I don't want to get into the diff. Seems a poor design to connect the turn buckle to the diff.

Shane

[2mcgrath]

you could try filling it full of ca glue.then putting your screw back in works sometimes

[rc10bob]

Hi guys, I have a big time question. I just finished my MGT for dirt oval racing. My question is. I need a pipe. What pipe to use. We are allowed to go up 30 for an engine. I was going to use the OS 30 but when with Sirio 30. I hope it was the right engine. Anyway I was looking at OS T-2060 and was wondering if anybody knows about it or any other pipe that they know it did make a difference. Appreciate any help here

[Brian23]

i wanted to get an FM radio for my mgt. For now i dont wanna replace servos or anything. I also dont want a computer radio. Just a simple FM. I want FM quality but i dont want a fancy one because im cheap :)

[MikeWz]

Hi guys, I have a big time question. I just finished my MGT for dirt oval racing. My question is. I need a pipe. What pipe to use. We are allowed to go up 30 for an engine. I was going to use the OS 30 but when with Sirio 30. I hope it was the right engine. Anyway I was looking at OS T-2060 and was wondering if anybody knows about it or any other pipe that they know it did make a difference. Appreciate any help here
Try the Jammin 2-chamber pipe...you're gonna want a 2-chamber as it'll give you more of the kick on the top because it'll let your motor breath much better. Haven't heard much about the OS, but I'm pretty sure it's way overpriced

[2mcgrath]

i got a question for you guys racing the mgt.first to give you an idea of my setup i have 40 series bowties,i have the foc installed,im running stock shocks with 45wt oil.im using red and gold springs on all 4 corners.i have removed the grease from the diffs and im using 5000wt in rear and 3000wt in front.im running the .28 from a savage and using 15/52 gearing.the truck seems to handle really well.but im having problems in the jumps.the truck is hard to control jumping.the launch and landing arent smooth.can any of you suggest something for me to try to fix the problem?im looking at keeping the stock shocks on for awhile before i switch them out.because unless i can get this thing jumping smooth im not gonna do very good racing it.

[Chevy-SS]

2mcgrath, I've been racing the MGT for two years now, since it came out. Switched over from a full-race T-Maxx, and ever since then, the T-Maxx has been sitting on ashelf. When dialed in, the MGT will race with the best MT out there, IMO.

40 series BowTies is a good start. Your shocks/springs sound OK, just be sure and use FT shock caps, as the stock caps will pop off. You don't mention toe and camber, very important for decent handling. I typically run 2 degrees neg camber all around, with 2 to 3 of toe-in in rear, and I always play with toe in front depending on what I need. If I need more cornering, I run some tou-out, if I want more stability on straights and my cornering is OK, then I will run some toe-in.

Gearing I always run about 1:3 (CB to spur). My favorite gearing is 17/52 with 40 series tires and a .26 engine (Picco, Mach, XTM). So I would say you need to go up a tooth or two on your CB.........

With all of the above, your truck should start handling like a dream.

However, there are a lot of little things that need checking. The biggest handling problem on an MGT is binding a-arms. The upper mounts get bent in impact and create binding. Now your truck will handle like crap, and won't jump properly. So take the shocks off, then work arms up and down. There should be no effort, the arms should basically fall down to full droop just by their own weight. Fix any binding problems with new mounts, or carefully straighten the old ones.

Also, check for loose ball-ends, loose screws, cracked a-arms, worn wheel bearings, loose pillow ball retainers, etc, etc..............

That should fix you up.

Oh, for diffs, I like 10K in rear and maybe 15K in front. Be sure and shim the diffs, according to this link: http://monstergtforum.com/articles/transmission_diff_shim.html

good luck

[2mcgrath]

thanks for the help,and also nice site may use it for reference..the toe and camber part im not real sure on how to get it to certain degrees.do they make a camber gauge that would work with the mgt?also i have been having some problems with a rear ball cup sometimes pops off,when i hit some of the bigger jumps.i know i have seen it before to run the dubro ball ends so i may also look into some of those.

[Chevy-SS]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKHC3&P=ML
There's the perfect camber gauge. Works like a charm and very quick.......

For toe, I use a long straight edge ruler and line rear wheels up to front. Every 1/4" offset is about one degree.

Stocker ball ends always pop off, plus they wear very quick. I use the Dubros and they are better, but you can get stockers to stay on if you use a small washer under the head of the screw.

Here's some MGT racing tips and tricks:
http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/


-

[2mcgrath]

i bought some dubro ends today.also found out my axle carriers are worn out the bearing moves inside the carrier,so i bought some of those to.once again thanks for the help

[nvrstsfd23]

i havent ran my mgt in a while due to a broken pull start and drill start but i just got it fixed went out to run it and when it starts it goes balls out full throttle. if i adjust the throttle on the remote it helps but i still had to hold the brake to keep it from moving. the idle seemed ok but the throttle linkage did not seem to be going back far enough what do i need to try to fix this.

[Chevy-SS]

First, take off the air cleaner. Now you can check adjustments just by looking down the carb bore, with the engine OFF. With your finger off the trigger, the carb should be CLOSED, except for about a 1mm gap. With your finger holding full throttle the carb should be just past full open.

Just adjust the linkage until you achieve these specs, but make the repairs with the engine OFF. If it's hanging up, then just look closely and you should see the problem. The linkage is very simple so you should be able to adjust (and fix) it easily.

-

[nvrstsfd23]

ok thanks

[Saboteur]

Wow, it's been ages since I been on here. :) I'm really missin my old MGT that was sold...shoulda just fixed it up and ran it. At the moment I do have the RC10GT, but still loving the way the MGT had the super ground clearance, big tires, and the rock, hill climbing ability. I was wondering if anyone had the MGT 4.60 and how did they like the stock engine? If I do just sell the GT, the $$ would go to the MGT, however I only have 30% to use for break in. That'd be a bit harder as I wouldn't know what's a colder plug than stock to try for the engine. Anyone, if you were in my shoes, just sell the GT and accessories I've got for it to bag the MGT, and also run the byrons 30% I have or waste more $$ buying a seperate 20% gallon?

[LD3Furious]

As for fuel, Id say just stick with the 30%. Im running TQ Buggy Blend 30% with my TNT modded stock .28 (MGT 4.6)and have no problems. I also run an RB 4 plug. Ive never understood the whole plug thing, really. Everywhere you look online, it is recommended to run cold plugs with 30%. I believe there are some modders out there that suggest running hot plugs though. In the little experiementing I have done, the hotter plugs definately run better. As for the engine, it is a very good running, reliable engine. Even more so, being modded. However, I feel it is lacking on the top. I think it is just a characteristic of this engine...all grunt. Even with running 16/46 gears, it still doesn't seem to have a great top end.

[Saboteur]

Sounds good. So what would you do now though sell the GT and add xtra $$ to get an MGT or keep what I have? My LHs doesn't have one now or parts, but they can get them. I'd definately ditch the stock pipe and use the stock one I had on my HB RTR as it worked great on my old MGT....sorry I sold that thing. :(

[LD3Furious]

I probably would do that...but that's primarily 'cause Im just not turned on to 1/10 Stadium trucks. Also, are you gonna have the time and funds to keep up 4 or more different vehicles?

[Saboteur]

I only have the GT and MRX4 right now. I've had upto 7 before lol. Well the TL-01 really makes the 3rd vehicle, but I don't really use it or the elec gear I've gotten.

[Skandranon]

Hey guys.. Wow it’s been a long time since I last posted here. I finally got the time, and cash to break out my mgt again! Woot!

I was negligent when I put her away, I just left all the filth and grime sit. Got it all cleaned up and fired her up today. Man I am again impressed with this truck. I can’t believe how easy it was to get her running considering I am using year old (open) gas and starting an engine that didn’t have any after run oil in it. The MGT is a beast!

So I have not taken the time to read every post that I missed. So if I am going over something again my apologies. I have the .21 mgt. I am thinking about upgrading my engine and pipe. What engine and pipe do you guys recommend? I don’t want an on / off switch, looking for something with a full power band. Also my buddy will be getting the LST 2 and I want to be able to keep up.

[Saboteur]

Any other pipe will do compared to the stock GT like pipe lol. Invest in that AE RE manifold so the pipe will be on the side and not in the rear of the truck. I noticed a big performance gain over using a real .21 pipe for the .21 engine. The Picco .26/.27 and some other .30 engines seem like a nice fit.

[Chevy-SS]

Heck man, just go on eBay and buy a LST2 engine/pipe combo. I saw one go for just over a hundred bucks! That'd make your MGT fly................
http://cgi.ebay.com/LST-LST2-NEW-Assembled-Mach-427-Engine-RTR-w-Pipe_W0QQitemZ6058363513QQcategoryZ116076QQrdZ1QQc mdZViewItem




MGT Racer Tips & Tricks
http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/


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[slaf]

Heck man, just go on eBay and buy a LST2 engine/pipe combo. I saw one go for just over a hundred bucks! That'd make your MGT fly................
http://cgi.ebay.com/LST-LST2-NEW-Assembled-Mach-427-Engine-RTR-w-Pipe_W0QQitemZ6058363513QQcategoryZ116076QQrdZ1QQc mdZViewItem




MGT Racer Tips & Tricks
http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/


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More power than your Picco 26 ?

[RDucky02]

i run a picco .26 and a hpi savage ribbed pipe with the ae side exhaust manifold. the truck screams

[Chevy-SS]

More power than your Picco 26 ?

Heheh, Picco .26 makes great power (and I still love 'em) but so does the LST2 engine. Right now, I am actually racing my MGT with a XTM 24.7 Pro engine and doing great it. I'm convinced that for racing, you don't need the fastest engine out there. A super-fast engine will probably hurt lap times for most drivers.


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[Saboteur]

Unless your track is half the size of a football field then, naw a fast engine is great. Especially for onroad when you need that power, weaker engines just don't cut it. Offroad is a bit different. ;)

[MikeWz]

Anyone who races an MGT on-road should sell it and buy an on-road :p

Chevy's right though. Big engines do hurt lap-times for the majority of drivers out there. I find people go too overwhelmed with the speed and go off the course, or they over compensate and brake too early. Another good one is trying to come out of corners. You've gotta know your track real well. Sometimes it's impossible to hook up and you can easily spin out, and other times it'll grab and you'll either flip over or have to slow down anyway to let the wheels come down.
The big motors are great for bashing, but completely unnecessary for racing. And besides, if you need the biggest motor to win, you've got other things to work on :p

[astainback]

Well, I am getting ready to ramp up for the season.
A friend of mine and I cranked his RCs up for the first time this season. He runs a Savage and an Ofna lx comp.
I have only run once this year. My main MGT (the one with the mach .26) ran great until my turnbuckle popped off again. I have to fix this.
The new MGT (SE) needs to be broken in a little more.
It ran ok, but I was running it way to rich.

Let the good times roll.

Anyone have any good suggestions for turnbuckles that doesn't cost too much?
I thought about lunsford.. this might be the way to go.

adrian

[astainback]

Oh, I forgot to ask.. are they ever going to fix the way the site looks?
This narrow viewing window with all the space on the left is weird.

[astainback]

I am trying to get my new MGT running good, and so far I do not like the TT.28.
I loved the .21.
I still have it. I might put that in the new mgt. It ran it's heart out everytime!!

[fuzzy2133]

you really should hang in there and get the engine fully worn in before you decide to swap it out.

that is my thought anyways, do what ya want though.

[speedracer911]

I am trying to get my new MGT running good, and so far I do not like the TT.28.
I loved the .21.
I still have it. I might put that in the new mgt. It ran it's heart out everytime!!

my cousin has the mgt with the .21 and i have the .28...the .21 is no slouch by any means but since ive gotten mine broken in and tuned fairly well he cant hang. every truck is different though. i like the .28 but thats just my opinion. especially when i can show off and pop wheelies :D

[astainback]

Yeah, I think I am going to give it a little time.

Thanks,
Adrian

[Brian23]

when u do factory needle settings which are 6.5 turns out on low speed and 2.5 turns out on high speed do u lean the needle till it stop then richen it 6.5 turns- or do u rich the needle till its out and then lean it 6.5 turns?

[speedracer911]

when u do factory needle settings which are 6.5 turns out on low speed and 2.5 turns out on high speed do u lean the needle till it stop then richen it 6.5 turns- or do u rich the needle till its out and then lean it 6.5 turns?

screw it all the way in until it stops but not too hard, and then back it out 6.5 turns

[RDucky02]

i am trying to buy an airbrush and am talking about it in painting body forumn area....

Any way, until I do so I found some templates for the crowd pleazer 2.0 and was going to paint one up like this.... blue flames and a yellow main body color... here is what i think it will look like on one side...

[RDucky02]

it says scobydo in the corner because he designed the template that i drew on

[rc10bob]

Hi guys. I have a MGT with a sirio 30 engine and OS pipe. I do dirt oval racing. My truck has no speed when I come out of the turn to about half way down the track and then it come on like crazy. On losing all the power coming out of the turn and about half of the track. Somebody said to get a low and power pipe. I've been looking on the computer. Really don't know which one. I appreciate any help you don't forget it's a rotary engine it uses a S manifold. Thank you

[Chevy-SS]

......... don't forget it's a rotary engine it uses a S manifold. Thank you

Rotary engine???? I don't think so, heheh. Rotary engines are mostly used in older airplanes. Here's a pic of a rotary engine:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3d/Le_Rhone_9C.jpg/240px-Le_Rhone_9C.jpg

[Brian23]

how am i supposed to get the engine mount screws in. The guy told me at my lhs that im not hitting hte nut it screws into on the muont. What nut tho?

[fuzzy2133]

the bolts to mount the engine onto the engine mount use nylon lock nuts on the inside of the mount. you have to remove the engine mount form the chassis to be able to hold the nuts in place for the screws to thread into.

[Brian23]

yse thank you- lol i thought he was talking about the screws that hold the mount/engine to the chassi. Well i found that i had bent both my engine mount and CHASSIS!!!! I was about to by the AE blue chassis for onehundred and a new engine mount which amounted to 123 with tax. But i only bought the mount because i was 10 dollars short to get the blue chassis. The problem is that the mount and the chassi are bent about 2 millimeters apart just so thhat the screws that mount the chassis to the mount cant touch. So i found a longer screw and im going to try to heat the chassis in a fire and pound it back to shape. Or maybe the longer screw will work and it will save me all hte trouble :)

[RC_Reeves]

Hello I got a noob question for the experts here. I have read through the many post and I've heard talk of guys using the 30% mix. My question is has anyone tried the Cool Power 30%. While I'm just getting into the r/c truck side of the hobby I have been into Helicopters for many years and I've found the Cool Power 30% mix to work great in just about any size motor delivering plenty of power through out the entire throttle band. Both OS motors I have love the stuff. The reason I ask is because I bulk ordered cases of it through a deal I couldn't turn down. @ $60 a case delivered. I know its a heli mix with the eqivilent of 18% oil I'm just wondering if I can use it in my new MGT 4.6 SE thats on its way from tower before I order any other fuel. I know you cannot run car fuel in a heli but I have never heard anyone say you couldn't run heli fuel in a car. I do have a half gallon of 20% red alert just in case no one thinks its a good idea. But I figured I'd ask the experts thier thoughts on this Thanks in advance for the input

[metalry101]

Umm...generally I don't think you're supposed to...but honestly, I'd contact Cool Power and ask them. I run Odonnell 30% RTR fuel in all of my nitro vehicles. It's got the same specs...30% nitro, 18% oil, as your Heli fuel...but I would imagine the lubricants and such are a bit different given the different types of engines they're intended for. I can't say for sure though, so if I were you, I'd give Cool Power a call and ask them.

[RC_Reeves]

Something of interest I found while looking into my fuel Idea I found this monster with a 70 heli motor. Seams like a waste of motor but something to think about
Thunder Tiger 1/8 EK-4 S2 MT w/Pro-70BX Prebuilt
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCEA3&P=ML

[metalry101]

Something of interest I found while looking into my fuel Idea I found this monster with a 70 heli motor. Seams like a waste of motor but something to think about
Thunder Tiger 1/8 EK-4 S2 MT w/Pro-70BX Prebuilt
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCEA3&P=ML
Ya...that's been around for a while now actually. They're fast as hell in a straight line on smooth ground, but pretty much useless as a monster truck. As a novelty toy for someone who can never, ever have too much power, it's pretty cool from what I understand...but not so cool for the rest of us.

[fuzz101]

Hello I got a noob question for the experts here. I have read through the many post and I've heard talk of guys using the 30% mix. My question is has anyone tried the Cool Power 30%. While I'm just getting into the r/c truck side of the hobby I have been into Helicopters for many years and I've found the Cool Power 30% mix to work great in just about any size motor delivering plenty of power through out the entire throttle band. Both OS motors I have love the stuff. The reason I ask is because I bulk ordered cases of it through a deal I couldn't turn down. @ $60 a case delivered. I know its a heli mix with the eqivilent of 18% oil I'm just wondering if I can use it in my new MGT 4.6 SE thats on its way from tower before I order any other fuel. I know you cannot run car fuel in a heli but I have never heard anyone say you couldn't run heli fuel in a car. I do have a half gallon of 20% red alert just in case no one thinks its a good idea. But I figured I'd ask the experts thier thoughts on this Thanks in advance for the input

well, i would give it a try, becuase i read in rc car action that you could use any type of glow fuel on your car and you would only lose power and there wouldn't be any harm done i think it was in the july one in "9 fule facts" section, they asked all these questions from Marc Jensen, his the owner of Byron fuels

[OFNA abuser]

yeah not to hijack this thread but I don't really have much of a choice seems how I can't post it in a general "MGT" Forum Topic...but for those who run CEN size rims/tires, can you comment on the gearing that you use? My MGT is coming in the mail like Wednesday and want to get the gearing beforehand. Any warnings or comments? Thanks! I did a search, but don't really feel like searching through 30 pages of the same thread...gets rather redundant if you know what I mean... :D

[metalry101]

What engine? If it's either of the stock engines (especially the .21), you're probably going to want to run the lowest gearing you can find, which would be a 13 or 14 tooth bell with a 52 tooth spur. If you've got more power, you might get away with stock gearing if you've got a grabby clutch..

[OFNA abuser]

Whoops! Forgot to mention it's going to be a Wasp .28. I know it's a torquey engine -which I want. So I figured even if I geared it a little low it should have good power, but I don't race and I prefer torque over speed any day. Thanks!

[Brian23]

do you guys know the little metal post on top of teh transmision? It is located right above the brakes. The brake linkage goes on there but when i put it in and apply brakes nothing happens. Is there a special way to put the little post in?

[badboy2]

try to adjust the spring or the fuel tubing that u have in the linkage..

[LD3Furious]

If you take the post out completely, you'll see that it has a "cut out" section. There is a small brass piece that fits inside this cut out. When you apply brake, the post turns and effectively presses the brass piece against the inner caliper which in turn presses the rotor against the outter (towards the front of the truck) caliper. The post must be facing with the cut out towards the front of the truck so that the brass piece can be set inside of this. Check to see if you havn't lost that small brass piece. It is easy to see, behind the inner caliper.

[RC_Reeves]

Hello again, I got my MGT 4.6 SE yesterday And it took almost a quart of fuel to get the engine to stay running and be able to keep running through a whole tank of fuel without it constanly stalling. my question being is this normal. As with my Heli engines it only took about a half turn to richen the mix on a new motor and it was good to go, but the engine in the truck just would not run at the reccomended setting per the instruction manual on break in. I used the 20% Red Alert to break it in and finally got it running pretty good with a trail of blue smoke, and a bigger puff of smoke and alittle sputtering when I hammer the throttle. Any sudjestions will be greatly appresheated Thanks

[LD3Furious]

As long as you have good performance and decent smoke trail, you should be fine. If you do have a temp gun, it may help some...but use temp only as a baseline. Don't get hooked on "Ohh it's gotta be less than 220* " and all that.Especially when it is hot and humid out. I raced a major event this w/end and many racers routinely saw temps (including me) pushing 260*, but the engines ran awesome and had lots of good smoke trail. Keep a close ear on sound, eye on smoke, and general intuition on performance. You'll know when an engine looks or sounds funky just by paying attn to it. You could also try the "spit" test, which may help. Simply drop a little on the top of the engine head and see how it evaporates. If it sizzles slowly, takes maybe 2 or 3 seconds to evaporate, you're just about perfect. If it doesn't sizzle and takes 5-8 seconds to evaporate, you could lean the top a little more. If it evpaorates instantly, you're too lean and need to richen it up. Richen- turn needle counterclockwise, lean- needle clockwise. Also, especially while leaning it out, picture a clock and make only one hour increments at a time. If you look at the slot on the needle, where the screwdriver goes, picture it at say 3 oclock and turn it so it looks like it is telling you that it is 4 o clock. This should be a decent guideline. Good luck and have fun.

[Chevy-SS]

http://www.rchobbies.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm

There's a great site for tuning and troubleshooting.............................

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[RC_Reeves]

Thanks for the link That will help. I think I got it pretty close now but I can't get it as hot as they recommend but it still moves pretty fast as the engine is breaking in I noticed its starting to lift the front end off the ground and I still have plenty of smoke

[Chevy-SS]

...... I can't get it as hot as they recommend.........

heheh, that's a good problem. Don't worry, once you start running it hard and leaning it out to make good power, it'll get hot.

Here's some race setup tips, if you're interested in racing the MGT:
http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/

good luck

[Leinzey]

Woohoo! I'm back in the game. :D I've been dying to get back into the hobby with a MGT for quite some time, and I took a trip to the LHS and they had a NEW .21 MGT on the shelf for $300. :eek: I couldn't pass that up. I can't wait to break it in. :cool:

Figuring I'd get a MGT eventually, I picked up a set of PowerStroke shocks some time ago right after they were discontinued. Problem is, I never bought the Pro-Line hardware kit and now I can't find one on eBay. Might anyone have some specs on the parts they use that I could find elsewhere? Thanks!

[badboy2]

the kit is only longer screws and some plastic washers/spacers ..u can prolly customize that..

[Brian23]

hey i got a RC SCREWS kit for my truck - i had just finshed puting my truck togehter and get to take it apart again :)