Team Associated Monster GT V2.0

[Skandranon]

I just bought my MGT! Now the waiting game...
Can not wait!
Thought I would share :)

[MikeWz]

Lol. I know the feeling. I ordered mine and it was planned to get here the day I left for winter break, which means I'da been without for another month had UPS lagged. Fortunately it got here like 20mins before I left. It's tough to wait man, I know

Anyway, congrats dude. It's a really sweet truck (dont' let those savage guys push you around :p ) and you'll love it. Good luck with it!

[Skandranon]

I realized I am talking about this on two threads on the same board. Ops :D I got a really killer deal. Brand new truck, $350 shipped off eBay. Guys got only good feedback for the whole last year and allot of it. The auction ended with the reserve not met. I got a second chance offer, talk about making my day!

[MikeWz]

Just be careful with those "second chance deals". If the guy does happen to scam you, it's no longer in Ebay's hands...which means you're pretty much screwed. Not saying it's going to happen, just saying to be careful in the future, especially with that sum of money.

[slaf]

I realized I am talking about this on two threads on the same board. Ops :D I got a really killer deal. Brand new truck, $350 shipped off eBay. Guys got only good feedback for the whole last year and allot of it. The auction ended with the reserve not met. I got a second chance offer, talk about making my day!

What's the name of this guy on EBay ?

Be careful on EBay, event if the guy has 100% feedback. Last year I bought a brand new T-Maxx on Ebay and I never receiced it. This was not the first time I bought from this guy, I bought tire, wheels, spare parts.

[Skandranon]

Here is the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5920519034&fromMakeTrack=true
The second chance deal I am talking about is though ebay. The seller sends you an email via ebay, and ebay gives you a personal 24 hour auction to decide. Check out the link and let me know what you think. I went to pay this morning and doh he doesnt take paypal, now I have to get a money order and do it the slow way, sigh.

Wow, you guys are getting me worryed.. I dont like sending money orders. Check this auction out and let me know what you think please.

[slaf]

Can you get it COD ?

[Skandranon]

That a good idea. I think I will email him and ask.

Man I should have been paying more attention. I usually don't buy something from people who don't take paypal.

[Skandranon]

Well I finally got a answer from my seller. It was:

"No, sorry it says into the listing that I only take money orders. I have great feedback, but if you do not like that then I am sorry, this is my policy. Thank you."

Hes got 600 good feedback. I don't know though. One guy said in the feedback that he sent him a different truck than he bought. I emailed him and he said it was better, but still. I am thinking about asking him if I just give him the extra 3% paypal charges if you will do that.

I don't want to screw up my eBay account, but I don't want to get screwed either.

Advice?

[MikeWz]

Well, what I can say is, go for it considering his feedback, but KEEP THE RECIEPTS from the money order. If you don't get the truck, you can file for fraud with the IFCC

[Skandranon]

What is the IFCC?

[MikeWz]

Internet Fruad Complaint somethingorother. If you file with them they get in touch with both yours and the other party's local authorities to help take care of the situation. I mean, if you send him money, and he doesn't send you the promised product, it's postal/mail fraud so they'll help you out

[Skandranon]

I see, thanks. I ended up talking with the guy a bit and sent a chashers check. I think it will be fine. We shall see in any case. :cool:

[Skandranon]

Has anyone ever tryed these dual rate springs?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5920831011&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
I was thinking about going with the red/gold combo I read about. Someone said there mgt was almost unflipable with that. Then I found these and was wondering if they really work? If the person who uses the red gold combo is arund u still using it?

[MikeWz]

Yes, I'm still using them :p
I've never used them, or heard of them but feel free. I personally stray away from anything that claims to fit The T/E-maxx AND monster GT when concerned with suspension. I can't see how the shocks would work the same, considering Maxx shocks are smaller. I also don't use Maxx sized tires because you loose a good amount of ground clearance

I use Losi Zombi Maxx tires because they fit the stock rims and are only slightly smaller, giving less sidewall flex

[slaf]

Yes, I'm still using them :p
I've never used them, or heard of them but feel free. I personally stray away from anything that claims to fit The T/E-maxx AND monster GT when concerned with suspension. I can't see how the shocks would work the same, considering Maxx shocks are smaller. I also don't use Maxx sized tires because you loose a good amount of ground clearance

I use Losi Zombi Maxx tires because they fit the stock rims and are only slightly smaller, giving less sidewall flex

Are you racing or bashing ?

[MikeWz]

I bash really hardcore, but it's not just running in a straight line and jumping and stuff. We have races around the dirt mounds and up them and around them. It's basically a construction site race sometimes. It's A LOT of fun.
But yeah, I found it to work best all around, because I'm looking for a truck that I CAN'T flip over, and I've found it

[Cotharyus]

Mike, where'd you get your Z-maxx tires?

[MikeWz]

I got them here, they're pretty inexpensive (compared to other places) here.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44016&item=5921083606&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

[Skandranon]

I see your point about things that fit mgt and a tmaxx. I will be using the red gold combo then. Does it matter what spring is where?

Did you take the stock tires off or buy new stock rims?

Does the ofna micro failsafe fit right in? This one:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEYG2&P=7

[MikeWz]

I baked off the stock tires and use the stock rims. Not worth buying extra ones IMO because I have no plans to go back to the stock tires

As far as spring placement, I don't think it'll really matter too much. I run reds on the outside and golds on the inside, just because it looks better to run a uniform set-up. I run a med/small pre-load spacers on the red springs and med/large on the gold springs.

I also have the shocks loaded with 50wt oil now. I haven't been able to get it out running since, but I'll let you know how it works out.

[Skandranon]

Did you have to buy the pre-load spacers or are the with the stock truck? The tires will prolly be in hoppup batch #3 or so. This friday I am getting, the red and glod springs, a 959 charger, the air 358 servo and a fail safe. Then Ill be broke. :p I would really like to get a JR XS3 next after that. I have found them on sale for $150. We'll see how that goes.

Thanks for all you guys set up help and advice!

[MikeWz]

Preload spacers come stock with the truck (those little plastic rings).

[Skandranon]

Will this spring work on the MGT?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000582895&I=LXUP98&P=K

[MikeWz]

The TT.21 already comes with a throttle return spring installed. You won't need to buy one

[MonsterBlazer#1]

Gday guys
i was thinking of buying oe of these since i cant find much info about the cen genesis.
can you please answer me a few questions?
is it worth buying?
any weak spots?
what would ur ate it for all over performance /10(10being outragous...like a rc10gt hehe)
is it easy to work on?

thanks fellas

[slaf]

You'll love MGT and if you put some low profiles tires, you'll notice that this truck handles like more like a stadium than a monster :)

[MikeWz]

The truck is totally worth buying. It's easily the nicest MT I've ever owned/seen. It's super easy to work out. It's a really clean layout and everything is easy to access. It handles rediculous, as slaf said, more like a stadium truck (as far as lack of rolling over goes) but less spinning out because of 4WD (although you can still easily do powerslides). It flies super level.

Only thing that's weak is the steering stock, but you can change the battery to the open channel (rather than the BEC battery slot) and that helps a lot.

I def highly recommend the truck

[slaf]

And It's very easy to work, everything is clean and esay of access, you can fin d parts everywhere. You can't go wrong with a MGT.

[Skandranon]

What kind of glow plugs do you use for the mgt?.

[Cotharyus]

I've been running A3's in mine, but that's because everyone in my family ordered me multipacks of A3's off tower last year for christmas....I won't have to buy a glow plug for at least another two years.

[Killa_Mgt]

The MGT is AWESOME , any one should get one there FRIGING AWESOME

[MikeWz]

A3s are nice, OS #8s are nice too.

I hear these are nice also
http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=20_79_80&products_id=2389
will probably pick one up when I have some more money

[slaf]

What kind of glow plugs do you use for the mgt?.


McCoy 59 or OS #8

[MikeWz]

While we're on the subject of glow plugs...The heat numbers #3-#8 (I think), the higher the number the hotter the plug, or the other way around? Also, how does that effect the engine? This is an issue I've always been pretty lost on...due to my own ignorance

[MonsterBlazer#1]

Heres a little site you might want to look at mate.

also u cant exactly say, what glowplug do u use in a *insert car name* it depends on things like the size, usage and fuel you are going to use with it

hope that helps

[Cotharyus]

not quite mike. The A3 is hotter than the 8. You usually have to go by the OS heat chart to figure out which is which.

The heatrange affects the engine in a couple of ways. The most notable is timing. Using a hotter plug, the air/fuel mixture will compress to the point of combustion faster, thus advancing the timing of the engine, using a colder plug retards the timing. You can also work a finer tune with a colder plug, while if you can't get a perfect tune on the engine, or conditions are changing (ever had a cold front come through during an afternoon of racing?) a hotter plug can allow you a little leeway in your tuning. The heat range of the plug will *not* affect the temperature your engine runs at.

[MikeWz]

Coth - Exactly what effect does timing have on the engine? I'm going to guess that it has to effect run times in some way, because if a hotter plug helps to get it the point of combustion faster, then the exhaust port will open/close at a different time, then if the point of combustion was later.

[Cotharyus]

Timing has more to do with where in the stroke of the piston combustion occurs. To a point, more advanced timing makes more power. Past that point, it rapidly leads to loss of power, detination, etc. Retard the timing too much, and you will start to lose power as well. I love to race for fun. There's a guy that races at my track that likes to win races against people that are good, but doesn't like big multi-day events. He's got an invite to the florida nationals this year, but isn't going. He told me you should run the hottest plug you can get away with. For what it's worth. Beyond that he said do what works for you.

[MikeWz]

Well, that's kinda hard to figure out though. I mean, there is no standard for measuring the heat ranges and stuff. As far as I know, OS #8 Plugs are the hottest OS makes, are there any plugs hotter than that?
Also, I hear it's good to use different heats during different times of the year, like you can get away with a hotter plug in the winter. Is this true?

I used to race all the time with my XXX-NT, but I never really thought twice about plugs. I used to always just run an OS #8. I guess it was hot enough to make the power I needed. I used to do fairly well, but then again it was myself and one other XXX-NT against some GTs....so it wasn't too hard to do well :p . Haha, just messin

[Cotharyus]

One last time Mike - the A3 is hotter :) here, I'll draw you a picture:

http://www.osengines.com/accys/glowplugs.html

Just funnin' - but seriously, the heat range of the plug has only to do with how much heat the plug holds, thus affecting only the combustion. As far as port timing goes, that's set, and can't be changed unless you modify the sleeve or something. The plug temp will only change where the piston is in it's stroke when the air/fuel mixture ignites. I wouldn't think using a hotter or colder plug in the winter would make any difference.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

my link didnt work.. ill try again! :p

Glow plug info for ya (http://www.excelsiorweb.com/rcair/glowplug.asp)

[reptile]

:rolleyes: One big ? i have is sombody told me Associated dont make the monster GT after i bought it they told me that thunder tiger makes it and they also said there was pictures of the thunder tiger truck on the web and it's exactly the same as the monster GT but i could not find the thunder tiger truck pic's...
Is this true doe's thunder tiger make the monster GT for associated....
:( If they do i think it's pretty sad..

Thanks
Reptile

[Jamie]

AE designed it and Thunder Tiger produced it. Thunder Tiger got the rights to sell the same truck in the rest of the world as the Thunder Tiger MTA4 as part of the deal.

http://www.thundertiger-europe.com/typo3temp/580ee409bb.jpg

[Cotharyus]

Sad or no, it's still a wicked good truck. You'll see.

[MikeWz]

As Jamie said, it's actually an AE designed truck, not a TT designed truck...which is why it's so good :p . TT has a right to sell it as the MTA4, mostly in Japan. You won't really find anyplace selling it as the MTA4 here though. It's the same sweet *** truck, just rebaged by TT. Guarnatee you that if you picked one up you WON'T be sorry. :cool:

[slaf]

This spring I was thinking the same thing as you...I don't what a TT product so I bought a Savage. A month ago I sold my Savage to get a MGT !!! I'm more than satisfied with my MGT and I don't want my Savage back....

AE designed the MGT a TT assembled it. AS TT assembled all RTR AE products. The only sad part of the story is that MGT use metric screws and all others AE products use SAE screws. You'll find MGT parts everywhere on earth and it is so easy to work on....It handles like a 4x4 RC10GT :) And the .21 engine is enough for many of us, racing or bashing.

[reptile]

:o I hope it's good i always have bought AE cars and loved them this is why when i heard TT is in on the monster GT i got really worried.. I have A T-maxx and my buddy just got a Revo so i decided to go AE and get the monster GT now that TT is involved i hope i did not make the wrong move... will it be better tuffer than my T-maxx?
I still own one of AE's original rc10 GT's and i love it it's still running strong!!

:rolleyes: So i hope at least EA makes all the parts and sends them to TT just for assembly.... please correct me if im wrong..

[slaf]

Don't worry, your MGT is tougher than your T-MAXX !

[slaf]

What tires/rims do you run ???

[Cotharyus]

Reguardless of who makes the parts, we wouldn't be on this forum raving about this truck if it sucked. I've worn the engine in mine out (over three gallons of fuel at race tune) doing three things: Setting the truck up and getting a feel for it, racing it (this happens a *lot*), and letting a friend that's never touched an R/C before drive it around my track. Due to sheer abuse, I broke on body post, and one front bumper. A total of $12 worth of parts. I don't think this truck is bad, maybe a savage might have broken less, but I wouldn't have put two laps on a GS racing SUT up at the track with a savage.

[MikeWz]

Yeah. I beat mine up hardcore and I broke:
Front lower A-arm
front body post
front bumper
That's all. All togher I spent like $17 on parts in a years worth of bashing. I'm talking like....hardcore bashing. If you've seen my pictures you can attest to it (although nothing looks as big as it really is in pictures). It's possible that a savage wouldn't have broken as much, but, I'd rather not go chasing after my truck ever 2 seconds to flip it back over.

[slaf]

Do you MGT bottom out on 4-5ft high jump ? :) Mine does :(

If I drop down my MGT for about 3ft high my truck bottoms out. I changed shocks oil for 70wt and add red springs on 8 shocks, I run TMaxx size tires. Is this normal. Ride height is good but I want my truck to stop botoming out. I read in some forums that's it normal for a monster truck to bottom out :confused: :confused: :confused:

[MikeWz]

Mine bottoms out pretty good. I was running 40wt with Gold and Red springs. I just changed to 50wt oil, but considering you went to 70wt and are still having the same thing, I guess 10wt extra isn't going to do much.

I've never had an MT that didn't bottom out though. All that weight coming down is a lot

[Cotharyus]

Mine bottoms out, but not as bad as it did stock I've got copper/blue springs on, with a good ride height, and 45wt oil. It handles really well, and bottoms out gently enough on the track I race on, that it doesn't affect my racing. I could step up to copper/reds or all coppers, but I think it would get too stiff in a hurry.

[slaf]

Cotharyus....Do you use stock tires ?

[Cotharyus]

Nope, I run regular Bowties on velocity rims. Over a year of hard testing at the track has shown the standard size bowtie on just about any rim they'll fit to be the best racing tire on most MT's for most tracks. Now if I'm just going to chase the dog around the yard, I'll throw the stock meats back on to keep from eating up my expensive race stuff...;)

[crackerjack]

I've broke 5 steering knuckles in 2 days. It's always the right front and it shears off right were the toe link connects. Any suggestions on how to prevent this?

Thanks

[Cotharyus]

Stop running into things? Seriously, I have no idea, is this "just happening" or does something seem to be causing it? I think I've broken one knuckle in 4 gallons of fuel, toe to toe racing. What exactly are you doing? You might double check the way you're putting it together, it should be a no brainer, but you might be doing something that's causing this.

[crackerjack]

Well, I'm hitting things, but not enough to break the knuckle, IMO. One was my fault (whacked a tire hard). But the others have been during normal driving. One was while driving (slowly) over the pipe at the track and the other was during a small jump.

[MikeWz]

Maybe when you whacked the tire hard you messed something up where the pillow balls connect to the arms. Maybe it's slightly angled or something and putting extra stress on the knuckle. That's all I can think of considering it's always the same one

[MikeWz]

Okay guys, been seriously considering racing my MGT this summer beacuse my track is in the process of moving and they claim to be building a track big enough to support 1/8th. So, my deliema. What engine to get. I know the OS RGX is a nice engine, but I would like a little more power. The problem is that I don't want to spend too much more money. I was looking at the RB Econo 3-port when I realized, "oh wait, I need a pull start." Is there any way to start the engine without a pull start? I'm pretty sure a box won't really work with this truck.
If not, I'll just have to get the Picco 4-port engine

[Cotharyus]

Mike - engines. Wow. I'm not going to preach on the RG, it is a great engine, but most people are probly going to shake thier heads at it. None of the seven other guys that raced MT's at my track yesterday are shaking thier heads though. Other options - you talk about money, but I understand that RG will put a pullstart on any engine...let me repeat that *any* engine you send them for $100 bucks. Other than that, I'd look seriously at the XTM engines, and the Fantom engines. I still might have gone with a Fantom if there had been one in stock anywhere in the US.....

[slaf]

Mach .26 looks a nice engine too. You can find it on EBay for 100$

[MikeWz]

Slaf- yeah I know. The mach is a super nice engine but it's a .26. I'm looking to put 100% of the power to the ground off the line, which is hard to do on a big engine like that (or not flip it over if you do) and they get less run times. Thanks though

Coth - Yeah, I saw that whole mod thing for the RB engines for like $120. That's pretty expensive. I would like to get a Fantom FR-21. Unfortunately they're like $200 and hard to come by. Hopefully stormer will have them

[Cotharyus]

Good luck with stormer. I couldn't wait for an engine, my stocker was dead, and I had to have one, so I got the OS. I honestly think for the money it might be the best thing going.

[fuzzy2133]

that is weird about week and a half ago I though stormer had the 21's in stock and now they are not. what about porting the tt21? or would that put you in a class you don't wanna be in?

[VWVR6]

i just blew out my rear diff this past weekend i was wondering if any aftermrket company has made a replacent with just the spider gears. Associated wants me to buy a whole new diff but if i can just get the spider gears some where i will get those.

[Cotharyus]

Unfortunately, I have not yet seen parts for the rear diff for sale other than the output shafts/cups. I've killed a ring gear myself, and decided I'd just bite the bullet and get the whole diff, so now I've got a diff, sans ring gear, I can use for parts.

[Chevy-SS]

Okay guys, been seriously considering racing my MGT this summer beacuse my track is in the process of moving and they claim to be building a track big enough to support 1/8th. So, my deliema. What engine to get. ....................................

I use the Picco .26 and I love it. Got tons of power, bolts right in and it's inexpensive. You can get one on eBay for about $160 with a pull-start. Add the roto-start for a few more bucks if you don't want the puller.

[MikeWz]

Aye, but the whole thing is, I dont' want anything bigger than a .21. They're less use a fair amount more fuel than the .21s, and it'll be hard to put all of the low-end power to the ground. And if I do, it'll be hard to keep the front wheels on the ground. AEs slipper is pretty bad, so it'll be hard to set the slipper right and have the gear last. I'm still waiting for robinson racing to come out with a Maxx style Slipper for the MGT

Fuzzy-IT used to be the opposite. They had the .21s in stock, but not the .27s. Now they have a .27 Pull start in stock, but no .21s. Oh well.
I did port the TT .21 a bit. I'm Certainly no expert on it, it' just a basic port job. It did help a little bit, but I'd still have trouble pulling the bigger guys around the track

[Chevy-SS]

Aye, but the whole thing is, I dont' want anything bigger than a .21. They're less use a fair amount more fuel than the .21s, .....
I don't think you'll really be happy with a .21, while a .26 will give you all the grunt you need. Fuel consumption ain't bad. I get 8 or 9 minutes of racing on one tank.


and it'll be hard to put all of the low-end power to the ground..........
It puts the low-end power to the ground with no sweat. I use 17t clutch bell with Bow-Ties.


And if I do, it'll be hard to keep the front wheels on the ground...........
Wheelies are only a problem if you have high traction conditions. My truck will wheelie on asphalt, but not on the dirt race track. Regardless, wheelies are easy to avoid, just be smooth on power application.


AEs slipper is pretty bad, so it'll be hard to set the slipper right and have the gear last..................
My AE slipper has lasted perfectly. I have it set pretty tight and have never had an issue with it. Been racing with it for four months.


Bottom line: a .26 is the only way to achieve a satisfactory power level, unless you wanna spend big bucks on a race .21 or have a .21 ported.

[MikeWz]

a .21 should provide more than enough power. Consider the TT sport engine gets it up and over 30MPH fairly fast. I can get about 10 minutes of run time on my TT right now, and if I get a decent .21 it will be about the same.

The problem with the AE slipper is that if you set it to do what's it's actually meant to do, you burn up the pegs and then the gear. If you have the slipper set tight then it can get pretty squirrely on turns, and that's partly what I'm trying to avoid (although it won't completely disappear with a .21, it'll be less pronounced).

[Cotharyus]

I'll point (again) for this conversation to the fact that I beat 7 other trucks out in the 15 minute main Sunday at the track. There was a stock powered T-Maxx, a .16 powered T-Maxx, a stock MGT, and two Savages with various flavored .26's in them, and a .21 powered T-Maxx. My .21 (OS RG-X) powered MGT placed first. All driving? I dunno, but it worked. And I don't think I'm *that* good a driver.

[reptile]

:) It's here!! I looked it over it looks awesom!! can't wait to run it :( raning like crazy here now!!
The one thing i did not like about it was the exhaust that exited out of the bottom so i drilled a new hole in the pipe where the wire mounts in the side that holds it to the chassis and i pointed the exhaust tip straight out the back so no oil will hit anything at all :)
Now i remember reading someware about using zip ties on the bumpers to streghnthen it but where do you put them? Also any other tips or parts i should look over before i run it for the first time?

[Skandranon]

cotharyus, how does the os engine compare to the stocker?

[MikeWz]

Well, I decided on getting a Fantom FR-21 and then letting Maverick Racer port it for me. He's definitely a professional, and it's really good at what he does. I'm pretty sure it's a 4-port engine. It's got 3 transfers and 1 exhaust (I think). So, it should have nice RPMs, but still have some low-end grunt. I'm just going to ask Mav to exaggerate them for me. I'm also hoping he can give me some more run time. By chaning when the intake/exhaust ports are open, you can make an engine more efficient. Maybe the run times won't be longer than normal, but I'm hoping that higher RPMs won't sacfice run time.

[Cotharyus]

Reptile - Make sure and move your batter plug to the 4th channel on your reciever, it'll get more voltage to your servos. The zip-ties should go around the brace on the rear bumper and the bumper (I run one through each hole in the rear bumper) to help hold them together, as the screws that are supposed to do this have a habbit of breaking.

Skandranon - The OS engine rips the stocker. It's not a *huge* rip, but it's stronger on the bottom end, and it winds out further. The midrange is easy to stay on, and it blisters coming out of a turn.

Mike - that was going to be my first choice, and I can't wait to hear what you think of it. Are you going to break it in and run it a little before he ports it, or are you going to let him go right to work on it? I'd like to know what it does for you stock. Keep us updated, I never know when I'll need another engine;)

[Chevy-SS]

I'll point (again) for this conversation to the fact that I beat 7 other trucks out in the 15 minute main Sunday at the track. There was a stock powered T-Maxx, a .16 powered T-Maxx, a stock MGT, and two Savages with various flavored .26's in them, and a .21 powered T-Maxx. My .21 (OS RG-X) powered MGT placed first. All driving? I dunno, but it worked. And I don't think I'm *that* good a driver.
Congrats on the win. Interesting that there were no Revos, SUT's, TNX's, LST's or converted truggies running against you. I think that helped you. I would love to see a side-by-side comparison using stock AE .21 versus OS .21. I'll bet that the AE .21 holds it own against the OS. I've run (and blown) two of the OS engines. They are OK, but I don't think they make much (if any) more power than the AE. Again, congrats on the win.

Just my $.02

[MikeWz]

Chevy - I have my AE slightly ported, and I know the OS RG will make a bit more power, especially on the bottom. They don't really add much on top though. I'm sure they have more potential if I were just to port the RG too though. If he were to race a truggy or something along those lines, even with a .26 he'd have a hard time simply because a truggy would be able to pull harder through the turns (lower CG, lighter weight). The MGT, even with a .21, can give the LST, REVO and TNX a run for their money. They may be the newest technology...but that doesn't necessarily make them better.

Coth - I probably won't be picking up the Fantom untill X-mas time. I need to get the cash first, as it'll be like $200 for the engine, then prolly like $50-$60 for porting, depending on how crazy I let him go with it. I'm going to break it in first and probably go a tank or two and do some timed runs on set distances so I can see what difference his porting makes. I know he does some fine work as apparently he had a few engines to worlds at some point (I think last year or the year before he had like 3 of his engines go to the worlds). Really looking forward to it, because Fantom engines are really nice stock. 'Lemme know what you think of that pipe when you get it.

[Cotharyus]

Mike - first off, the pipe rocks. I think a stock setup versus this engine/pipe combo would lose, period, end of discussion. Chevy - there was a Revo. I didn't get to race him for more than 2 minutes in the main before he broke. We were never in the same qualifying heats. The fact that he broke says something to me. It *did* appear to handle fairly well, but I still question if he could have beat me. Could just be the driver too. I'll also have you know that I beat a GS racing SUT several weeks ago at the track with my stock engine/pipe setup. Do not underestimate this truck on the track. With a little tweaking, it's dangerous.

[slaf]

Coth -> Did you "lightweight" your truck ?

[Terry]

Off topic here, I am looking into getting a MGT os LST and wanted to know if you can use a HPI roto start to start the MGT instead of a cordless drill. Does anyone use one of these instead of a drill?

[slaf]

Off topic here, I am looking into getting a MGT os LST and wanted to know if you can use a HPI roto start to start the MGT instead of a cordless drill. Does anyone use one of these instead of a drill?

Rotostart doesn't rotate in good direction. :eek:

[Terry]

what do you mean good direction, do you mean the right direction?

[slaf]

what do you mean good direction, do you mean the right direction?

I mean right direction....Sorry my english is not perfect :(

[Terry]

thanks for the help

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - Yes. My MGT weighs about 10 lbs. I could get it about a half a pound lighter, but it would require actually spending money to lighten the truck up. It'll probly happen eventually, but for now, I've spent nothing trying to make the truck lighter, and have knocked almost two full pounds off of the weight the way it comes out of the box.

[MikeWz]

Coth - Glad you like the pipe

What'd you do in order to lighten the truck up? I already have the FOC and grinded down the mud guards. There's the whole taking off the stock "piggy backs" but I have Integy shocks so that don't work for me

[Cotharyus]

Right - I ground the mud guards, FOC, pulled then extra servo of course, then removed the mounts for that servo from the radio tray, removed the guard for the steering servo on the bottom, I've removed the roll bar since I got a the Proline body took the silver extensions off the bumpers, cut the bumpers off level with the braces, trim the mounting posts to be as short as possible, mounting the body as low as possible, took off the rear body clip and use a standard mount...it seems like there's more, but my brain is fried.

[MikeWz]

Haha, just 'lemme know if anything else pops up. I'm prolly going to be doing that at somepoint soon. Bashing the truck 'till shortly before the season starts up again. Getting quite cold here (Mass/Long Island. I got to school in Mass so I can't race anyway). That should still leave the truck durable enough for racing. I may even take the bumpers off.....but that kinda leaves my body vulnerable. I'm going to be painting myself up a nice Proline Crowd Pleazer 2 body when I get the Velocity rims and Bow Ties. Looks like a super nice body. Will take the roll bar off too. Just put some zip ties around the top of fin of the cooling head and there's nothing you can break by landing on the lid anyway.

[rc10bob]

Hey guys, I have a MGT that I am putting a 27 Pantom in it I don't want to use the pull start is there anything that you can tell me to start this engine with thank you

[Chevy-SS]

I can't believe you guys are removing the roll bar. You might save a tiny bit of weight, but that roll bar is fantastic. I put some padding on the top of my roll bar, which takes the brunt of rollovers. I strictly race, not bash, and I've had some spectacular rollovers. This really helps save the body, I'm using the new ProLine Ford .060. I have two friends with Losi LST's and they liked it (the roll bar) so much, they added the MGT roll bars to their LST's.

For anyone wishing to get some longevity from the truck body, I would recommend leaving the roll bar in place. Add a little padding and you have the best body-saving device possible.

[Cotharyus]

Actually, my roll bar was hurting my bodies more than helping. Besides, I don't roll over that much (how do you think I win?) and when I do, it's usually a gentle nose over. I'm using the same body you are chevy, mostly because the crowdpleazer wasn't available yet.

Mike - the bowties and velocity rims will actually drop a pound from the truck's weight over the stock wheels and tires. You won't believe your launches with those things.

RC10bob - don't hold me to this, but could swear someone on the HPI forums had rigged up an HPI rotostart to a Fantom on thier savage.

[MikeWz]

You'd need to use the Roto Start thing. The hole where you put the drill starter shaft and the hole for the Roto start are different shapes and wont' work. My buddy mounted his roto starter up to his Epic .18. However, you'd have to get the pull start model anyway. See, the crank on the pull start models are longer because it needs to go all the way back to where the 1 way bearing is.

Coth - Yeah, I'm already a bit lighter because of the Zombie Maxx tires, but the Velocity and Bow Ties are much lighter. The truck flies so true already. I'm going to assume it keeps that trait, just launches higher?

SS - Yeah, the roll bar messes up my body pretty bad too. I've got a big line in mine where I've landed upside down (from bashing). I can see the padding as kinda....making that mark wider.

[VWVR6]

with the drill start for the famtom ya could always try a tiger drive. I think it uses a hex just like the orginal(not sure though) check them out a http://www.sullivanproducts.com/StarterAccessoriesMainFrame.htm

[reptile]

:) Got to run her for the first time! Man it's not tuned all the way yet nut i can feel the power!! i have a T max but the MGT feels like the power is there at all rpms when the 2 speed kicks in no bogging at all ..over all feels more stable than my T and the funny thing is the MGT is a higher truck!
And the shocks well i can drop the MGt from way higher and it don't bopttom out like my T maxx does so easy..
I have to say the MGt's layout is simple and easy to work on nothing on it is in the wrong place unlike my T maxx hard to get things in ond out or tighten a screw on the darn thing!!!
:D MONSTER GT ALL THE WAY BABY!!

[Cotharyus]

See - another convert, and it aint even broken in yet! What a truck. Enjoy it dude.

[Skandranon]

I got it, I got it, I got it! Woot! I got my MGT last thursday. Had to work all day and all day friday. Ended up going to the mall parking lot after i got off for the break in.

This truck is so awsome! Most everything has been working great. I cant seem to get my stearing right though. The camber and toe in is all messed up. Anyone have any tips on setting them properly? I keep trying but I havnt gotten it right yet. I dont have the tool, is there a way to do it without one?

Did you guys cut out more of the body for air flow? I cut out the grill in the front of the body. What have you cut and how hot does you engines run?

I broke a lower arm in the front. Ended up getting the rpm arms for the front. It seems to lower the front end some.

I heard talk of zip ties on the bumpers. I do not understand clearly where these would be placed. Any help there?

Running the red gold spring combo mike is using but with the stock tires. It will flip fairly easily. Guess that means new tires in my furture.

[MikeWz]

What'd you do to break an A-arm. I managed to break one too, but it was kinda like....driving it off this 10ish ft drop off. And, being a moron and all, kinda....landed on the front right tire and she broke. Oh well

Also, what kind of surface are you running on? If you're running on pavement that spring combo will NOT work at all. Also, I'm not sure how much effect the tires will have on it, but I know the sidewalls on the Zombie Maxx tires are lower.

How much do the RPM arms lower the truck? If it's not too terrible much, maybe it'd be worth running them all around for racing. Lower the CG a little bit so you can push harder in some of the higher bite turns.

I didn't cut anything at all out of my body. I run it normal. If I was racing I'd probably cut out the square in the window, but this engine runs nice and strong at like 230-240, so I didn't feel the need to.

And congrats dude, sick freaking truck

[fuzzy2133]

I only cut half the front windshield and the temps are not a problem easy to keep them 200 to 260.

The RPM arms have some webbing where the hinge pins go on the bottom of the arms that only let the arms droop so far befor they hit the skid plate tabs. If you want full travel just need to bend the tabs on the skid plates down for the webbing to clear.

Here is a pic of losi zombiemaxx tires on the stock MGT rim.

edit: I still need to glue, balance and then I can run'em. heard on another board they work very well.

[MikeWz]

Fuzzy you're going to love those tires. They're smaller and lighter so that alone is awesome, plus, the sidewall is a fair amount smaller so that allows for less flex. I found they made a tremendous difference for me. I probably won't race in them (keep the bowties for that) but they are an awesome all around tire. Dirt, grass, pavement, whatever. Hooks up nice on all and has good wear. Good choice :cool:

[Skandranon]

I am still not sure how I broke the a arm. The only thing that might have done it is a small hidden tree stump, but I thought I had braked enofe to not hurt it. I didnt notice it till the next day. I am wondering it the may have been a small defect there.
I am running on everything I can find! Mostly grass dirt and wood chips at the park.

The RPM arms on the highest pin are just a very little bit lower than stock, if at all. But the other two slots look like it would be very noticable. I had only the botton a arms on at first and with them only and not the top set there was a very noticeable hotrod look. IE the front was lower than the back. After putting the tops on it evened it back out for the most part. It was a bottom I broke, and I just had a little time to run. Threw them on real quick to play with.

You are so right, sick SICK truck.

I need help setting my camber and toe in. Any way to do this without a gauge? I may have to out visit the LHS and get one. Dont even know how much they cost. If you have to do that is the a brand that works best for the MGT?

[Chevy-SS]

.......................

I need help setting my camber and toe in. Any way to do this without a gauge? I may have to out visit the LHS and get one. Dont even know how much they cost. If you have to do that is the a brand that works best for the MGT?

Setting toe is easy. Just get something with a straight edge about 16" long. Then set the truck on a flat surface with all tires pointing straight. Hold the straight edge (I use a piece of scrap wood) lightly against the rim on a front tire. If you want zero toe, just adjust the turnbuckles so that the front tires line up with the rears, using the straight edge as a reference. Keep checking side to side and adjust until both sides line up. If you want a little toe-out, then the straight edge will line up slightly inside of the rear tires, vice versa for toe-in. Use this same method to set rear toe angles also. Experiment with the toe to get desired settings as it affects handling quite a bit. I would recommend a little toe-in on the rear at all times.

RPM makes a great little camber guage: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV13&P=ML Using it becomes pretty self-apparent once you get it. A pretty good overall setting seems to be about 1 degree negative camber. You could probably get pretty close just using a T-square and a flat surface. Put the T-square against side of rim and adjust til you have a small gap at top. This would mean tire is leaning slightly inward (negative camber).

[Skandranon]

Thanks allot chevy!! I will have to try it out.

[slaf]

Skandanon -> In which hole did you screw the shock on the lower a-arm ?

[Skandranon]

The RPM arms have some webbing where the hinge pins go on the bottom of the arms that only let the arms droop so far befor they hit the skid plate tabs. If you want full travel just need to bend the tabs on the skid plates down for the webbing to clear.


It took awhile for this to sink in. I kinda read it and kept going. It clicked toay though. I see what you mean. With those taps down and stock arms on the back I have kinda a hot rod feel to it. The front sits noticably lower than the back. I kinda like it. Under power it sits level. I will have to think more about it. I dont want to bend it and then change my mind. I might just do the back when I get RPM arms for there too. I havnt seen the full effect of having the truck sit like this. Its hard to say what do you guys think it would do to the handling.

Slaf- I have it on the inner most hole.

[fuzzy2133]

...Under power it sits level. I will have to think more about it. I dont want to bend it and then change my mind. I might just do the back when I get RPM arms for there too. I havnt seen the full effect of having the truck sit like this. Its hard to say what do you guys think it would do to the handling.

I have only run my rc trucks like that when I will be stuck on-road. the trouble is when you go to use the brakes too much weight transfer will be on the front and the rear tires could loose traction and then making cornering quite hard to do if you are entering too fast.

I am going to have to regain some suspention travel and start by bending the skid plate tabs sightly and working my way further.

[Cotharyus]

Well, for racing, limited uptravel is good. I actually put a short piece of fuel tubing inside of one shock on each corner to limit uptravel. It keeps the truck more stable in turns. It is important though, to try to keep the tubing the same length. It sounds like the RPM arms may be a good way to get a consistant limiter.

[MikeWz]

The RPM arms....it sounds like they're only limiting in the front :confused: ? Is this true? I mean, I personally haven't seen them, but just listening to people it sounds like it's lowering ONLY the front end. Don't really want that whole drag race style thing going on.

Coth - You said you were getting a digi cam earlier. Let's see the beast :cool:

[Cotharyus]

Yea..I should do that...let me finish my coffee, and I'll go take some pictures...I've got a little time this morning.

[Cotharyus]

I'll have to try again later. I took some pictures, but my wife was playing with the camera and changed the focus settings, I didn't realize it until I started to look at the pictures. I'm out of time right now though..

[slaf]

I have RPM A-Arms on my GT and I will grid the extra metal on the skid plates to make full shock extension. RPM A-Arms are strong but they limit droop and lower ride height. Should I completly grid all tabs ?

[Skandranon]

That is because I started all the RPM arm talk with only putting them on the front.

[MikeWz]

I like the idea of lowering droop.
Do they lower ride height all around (as in front and back)?

[fuzzy2133]

yes they will all be the same ride hight. to me it does not feel or look right at times.

[Cotharyus]

I'll have to do this in a series of posts, so here's the first one. A shot from the front showing the cut bumpers, shocks with no resiviors, trimmed body mount posts, and my ride height.

[Cotharyus]

A better shot of the trimmed shocks and body mount posts. Pardon the mess, I haven't had time to clean it since the last race....

[Cotharyus]

An overhead shot, you can see I've done a little trimming on the radio tray, and there's no roll bar. Notice anything else?

[Cotharyus]

The engine, rear shocks trimmed and body posts, also notice the sides on the mud guards. Check out the shallow angle on that header too. It's close to 3/8 of an inch shorter than stock, and I'm not sure I couldn't get a little more performance out of that pipe with it a little shorter yet.

[Cotharyus]

Body on up front. Notice how low the body sets - I actually trimmed the front of the body higher to get the body to set that low. Also notice the no-frills and lack of decals. Lots of room for "sponsors" should I find any worthwhile :)

[Cotharyus]

I like the lines of this body from the side. It really doesn't look as bad as I expected a ford body to look. Of course, we all know I'd perfer a Dodge Ram body. Proline? Anyone? Beuler?

[Cotharyus]

Just so everyone's clear on who and what just passed them...yes, it's powered by OS - notice how much clearance there is between the engine and the body here. Also, for those of you who were wondering about where the zip ties go on the rear bumper....I'd draw you a picture, but...you know.

[MikeWz]

Coth- Nice truck man. I do like the simplicity of the design. However, it is still a ford :p .
Anyway, as for the header, did you just dremel/saw/somehowcut off part of the end by the coupler? I had to do that on my Maxx back in the day. Don't go cutting it to short. You have the find the happy meadium. I forget exactly how being too long/short affects it (as far as which extreme does what) but I know that you gotta find just the right spot. Nice pipe btw ;)

And, as for getting the arms perfectly level....how'd you do that?

[Cotharyus]

Lets see...still a ford..yep. Still looking for that dodge body. On the header I tinkered with a few things before I decided to cut it. I just used a sawzall to knock as much as I wanted off the coupler end. Before cutting the header, the pipe performed well, but it wasn't quite all I expected. Keeping the same tune, I cut the header, and remounted everything. The engine peformed only a little better than it had before - the difference was the temp droped 35 degrees - nothing I did to it could make that engine run hotter than 195 where it was tuned - so I cranked in on the hsn until the temp came back up, and I still had a good smoke trail. And the truck....flies. hehe.

When you say arms perfectly level - how do you mean? For my ride height? It's just a matter of spring preload.I should be clear that what you see is the ride height I race with. I should have taken a picture with the shocks at full uptravel too so you could see how limited that is...you wouldn't believe how much it helps on the track. I'm seriously thinking about a sway bar too though.

[slaf]

COTH -> Nice truck ! What OS is this ?? Short head seem to be the best wat to prevent head scratches ! Do you have a picture under the truck ?

[MikeWz]

Is the OS RG-X. Best engine for the price. You can't beat that.
For preventing scratches on the head, try putting on zip ties. Just take some of the small zip ties (I use four) and put them on the top fin of the cooling head. That way, if you ever flip over, the zip ties hit the ground and not the head :cool:

[Cotharyus]

slaf - Mike's right - it's the RG-X. I cannot find any faults with this engine, and the price is certainly an atractive feature. I didn't take any pictures of the bottom of the truck, but I promise the only thing I've done down there is cut the steering servo guard off. The bottom of my truck is super ugly because I blew the tops off both of my right rear shocks in a qualifier last weekend and ran the last four laps dragging the back end of the truck with only the shocks on the left side working.....still finished second in that qualifier too :)

[slaf]

slaf - Mike's right - it's the RG-X. I cannot find any faults with this engine, and the price is certainly an atractive feature. I didn't take any pictures of the bottom of the truck, but I promise the only thing I've done down there is cut the steering servo guard off. The bottom of my truck is super ugly because I blew the tops off both of my right rear shocks in a qualifier last weekend and ran the last four laps dragging the back end of the truck with only the shocks on the left side working.....still finished second in that qualifier too :)

How your MGT perform compare with stock engine and all others .25, .26...28 engines ?

[Cotharyus]

Well, compared to stock, I'd say it's a little faster on top, and I *know* it comes out of the hole faster. The big thing is the midrange. When I get on this engine cominig out of a turn, it's got enough power to spin me out if I'm not careful. The stock engine was never a problem to control. As far as comparing it to anything larger, I can't do that, because I've never seen an MGT with anything larger than a .21 in it. I will tell you that I have no problem keeping up with a couple of .25 and .26 powered savages at the track. My big objection to the larger engines is that they all seem to be like on/off switches, either idling, or wide open, they really don't have a distinctive midrange.

[MikeWz]

That's why I'm looking at the FR-21 rather then the FR-27, despite many people saying "get the .27...it's the same price and more power". Well, more power = bad if it's that kind of power. Anybody seen the FR-27 run? I'm kinda hoping it doesn't lack in the middle. I know the FR-21 doesn't, but that doesn't mean anything.

The wasp .26 has the on/off switch kinda powerband. I'm kinda thinking that the Wasp .28 will to :(

[fuzzy2133]

I have never had any felling of an on/off swith with either the wasp or ofna .26's. the thing that gets me is the fact that I gotta constantly tune them from one day to the next. the fantom in my NMT goes for a week before needing adjustment, I have decided that is what would make the MGT better, over having the extra power.

[Terry]

what type of reciever pack does the mgt take, flat or 2 over 3? also does the mgt come with a wall charger in the kit?

[Skandranon]

I have a 2 over 3 hump pack in. I dont think a flat would fit. No wall charger.

I was out running my mgt today with the RPM arms on the front and stock on the back, without the tabs bent down. I noticed it made it much more likely to front flip on a small rut or have the front way too low on a jump. I would recomend against this setup. So I got her home and bent the tabs down to bring up the ride hieght and level her out. It helps alot but the RPM arms are still lower than stock, even with the tabs bent as far as I can get them.

Coth how did you get that perfect circle cut out of the windshield? I have the grill cut out and a ton of blue smoke, but I still hit 260 quickly on grass if I am not very carful on the gas.

[Cotharyus]

Terry - a lot of guys that just race put the flat pack on the MGT by cutting four holes in the left mud guard and ziptying it to the *bottom* of the mud guard to lower the CG. That said, the MGT is designed to take a 2 over 3 in the radio tray, it comes with a four cell holder, and no batteries or wall charger.

Skandranon - I cut everything with dremels. Although if you look, that circle is far from perfect.

[MikeWz]

Skan- Any truck you run on the grass is going to get super hot real quick. I had the same problem back in the day when I had my Maxx. I had plenny of blue smoke, but the engine was getting so hot that the head turned from blue to silver. I asked around as to what could be causing this and the general concensus was that it was the grass. The truck needs to push more through the grass, and pushing 10+ pounds with extra force holding it back can't be good for the engine.

I have no extra holes cut out and I'm running like 230-240, and it's tuned well.

[Chevy-SS]

I got the Wasp .26 in my MGT and I race the crap outta it. It has never failed me. Not one flameout. Tons of power. The .26 is easy to tune, maybe not quite as forgiving on the tune as the stock AE .21, but still very easy. IMHO, if anyone is contemplating a new engine, go with a .26, forget the .21's. A .26 will give you all the raw power that you could need, and if you really need more, then go to a .27 or .28. A good .21 will make the MGT really move out, but a .26 will make the MGT explode out of the hole.

[Cotharyus]

Chevy-SS - I'm sure it will. The question is, can you get it to come out of the hole without exploding out of the hole with the .26. I never said it wasn't a reliable engine, I said they had no midrage.

[MikeWz]

It's true. It's not that it won't move when you get on the gas. That's not the problem that I've seen with the Wasps and all. It's when you're already moving at 10-15MPH and you've got the engine rolling at about 15K or so RPMs. It's like there's a flat spot in the powercurve. They don't really get up and atem from something like coming out of a turn like a .21 will. Also, they won't/don't rev as high as a .21, so they actually lack more on the top-end. They do get "out of the hole" faster than a .21, but you gotta be able to put that all to the ground, and it's not quite as often that you start from a point where all that torque is at hand

[Chevy-SS]

Coth, it sounds like you race a bit. I'm sure you'll agree with me that "punch" is just about the most important thing to have when it comes to racing. I've been a drag racer and hot rodder for 30 years. The .21 vs .26 discussion is very similar to the many heated discussions concerning small-block vs big-block car engines. While it is true that you could get a small-block 350 Chevy engine to turn a very fast 1/4 mile time, they were never quite as much fun to drive on the street as a big-block 454. Torque equals acceleration and you will virtually always get more torque from a bigger displacement engine. This meant that the big-block 454 would really snap your neck if you mashed the gas pedal at a slower speed, while you had to rev the small-block engine to get it making power.

I don't know where you guys race, but the tracks I frequent are always quite technical and punch is everything. You gotta be able to accelerate in a hurry to clear the jumps and set up for the next turn, which is often just a few feet away. I use 1.1 springs with lightened clutch shoes, which really lets this Picco .26 come into its power band and gives it awesome punch, with plenty of top-speed available for the straight.

I think you guys have some good points about the .21's and I won't argue about the power level on some of these engines. However, all other things being equal, more displacement equals more torque, which gives faster acceleration.

[MikeWz]

I won't argue with that. Bigger engines...BB engines, do have more torque. It's just that they dont' rev as high...or as fast. That way, they can stay close to max torque longer. Which = better acceleration. However....there's a flat spot in the power curve, because they don't make as much power in the middle - upper RPMs. That's the same thing with BB nitro engines. However, the way that they ported the R/C engines they are able to make power up top. However, there's no way to pull it 100% of the way through the powerband. That's kinda where, at least in myself and apparently Coth's case, is the most important part for power. My track has a lot of turns and stuff, where you can always been on power, but you're moving like 10ish - 15ish MPH, so, you have the engine almost dead center in the powerband. That's where those engines seem to lack power, but where the .21s shine. It's a known fact that smaller engines can rev higher and faster, but don't have as much torque. So, the .21 has enough torque to get the car up and atem (especially if the clutch is tuned right) but will pull from the mid - top harder than the .26.

I have found that the .21 doesn't lack enough torque to make it a terrible thing, because you only jump off the line once, after that, I've never dropped the engine into a low-enough part of the powerband for it to be a problem. I've actually found the middle part of the band to be the most important.

[Skandranon]

Skan- Any truck you run on the grass is going to get super hot real quick. I had the same problem back in the day when I had my Maxx. I had plenny of blue smoke, but the engine was getting so hot that the head turned from blue to silver. I asked around as to what could be causing this and the general concensus was that it was the grass. The truck needs to push more through the grass, and pushing 10+ pounds with extra force holding it back can't be good for the engine.

I have no extra holes cut out and I'm running like 230-240, and it's tuned well.
So what did you do, stop running on the grass completly? This would cut my running area to about half or less. I am always looking for new spots, but have only found a couple in my area.

I have the problem worked out to a workable point. I need to do something else. I am running it rich. I am not really sure if this is bad for the engine. Has to be better than running it hot. I know that engine has more power though. I am planing on a new pipe, just have to wait on that.

[Cotharyus]

Chevy - I won't argue anything you've said. I'll point this out though. Gearing is important. As Mike stated, the nitro .26+ engines won't rev as high as the .21, so to make the same top end, you have to gear higher, negating some of your low end torque advantage. Being into drag racing, you know the advantage of the timing side of the holeshot. Most of the time, I come out in the top three spots off the start, and make it up to first with little trouble. Holding onto it can be a problem, and I'll never say that a big engine isn't good for racing, but lets say for my driving style, I'll use what works best. 3 litre ferrari V12 vs a Chevy 454? You bet. But for my money, I'll take the red head any day ;)

[slaf]

I was out running my mgt today with the RPM arms on the front and stock on the back, without the tabs bent down. I noticed it made it much more likely to front flip on a small rut or have the front way too low on a jump. I would recomend against this setup. So I got her home and bent the tabs down to bring up the ride hieght and level her out. It helps alot but the RPM arms are still lower than stock, even with the tabs bent as far as I can get them.


I bent tabs too and put shock in the inner hole on the lower a-arms and it resolve my bottoming out problem and give to my MGT more suspension travel. I run red spring with 50wt.

I'm just curious....How high can you drop down your MGT before he bottoms out ? I can drop it dowm from 2.5ft before he bottoms out... I just want to be sure thant I'm not alone in this case. Cause my previous truck was a Savage and I was able to drop it down as high as 4-5ft !

[slaf]

I finally broke something on my MGT ! I broke the rear left turnbuckle eyelet... :(

Do you know if RPM make replacement part for this ?

[Cotharyus]

Nope, no RPM replacement. I've seen a lot of these things popping off at the track, but I think most of them are due to people hanging the tie rods and camber links on the nails that hold the pipe down as they're going over them. Oddly enough, I bent a turnbuckle one day at the track, but it didn't break the eyelet.

[MikeWz]

are you talking about ball ends? If there's a problem with them breaking/falling off, maybe try some T-maxx ball ends. I know there was a problem with them on the XXX-NT some some people were using them, but I'm not sure if it'll fit on the MGT.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDDV6&P=7

they're not expensive, so why not give it a shot?

[slaf]

I ordered the stock ones (25121). This is the first time I broke something on my MGT except bumbers....

I have to say that it was cold (9C) when I broke the eyelet.

Coth -> If the eye poped out maybe install a small washer at the ball end...

[slaf]

Where's everybody ????

[fuzzy2133]

out running or like me putting the truck back together. :p

[Cotharyus]

Just been busy. I'll probly have some remarks about racing towards the end of the weekend. We're supposed to race sunday, and right now the weather looks like it should be ok.

[MikeWz]

Yeah, I haven't been able to run for a while either. I need a new one-way bearing. I ordered it like 2 weeks ago, but it was shipped home, rather than up here at school. So, I'm going home this weekend so I'll pick it up, along with my side exhaust manifold. Hopefully will be up and running again soon...before winter comes....when the real fun starts :cool:

[slaf]

Temps are getting lower every day here.....My season will end soon :( :( And I don't want to run my MGT in snow :(

[fuzzy2133]

I am currently cutting those tabs off my skid plates, it should look a little more streamlined underneath when I am done. It has been getting cooler in San Jose sorry for you people where it snows, I only have to deal with rain. :p

[toyman64]

Don't feel bad for us when it snows, I'll be climbing up and around the piled up snow with my MGT hav'in fun! I can't wait!!!

[fuzzy2133]

WOW I forgot what the MGT looks like at full suspention down travel. :cool:

[slaf]

Nice ground clearance :)

I bent the tabs on my MGT too and it's improve ground clearance. RPM A-Arms are strong but we need to bend/cut tabs for maximum droop.

[MikeWz]

I am currently cutting those tabs off my skid plates, it should look a little more streamlined underneath when I am done. It has been getting cooler in San Jose sorry for you people where it snows, I only have to deal with rain. :p

Why do you feel sorry for us??? That's why we have MTs :cool: . The racing my stop but by NO means does the fun stop. Bustin out huge rooster tails in the snow....and makin jumps out of the 5-10' piles of snow from the plows and all. It's totally sweet. Just use some silicone sealant around the servos and put a balloon around the RX and it's all good

[toyman64]

Amen to that, I might even gear mine down, stiffen up the suspension and add a plow.

[slaf]

1/8 scale snowblower fixed on the front end should be nice too :)

[toyman64]

What's the weather like rite now up there slaf? It's cold & rainy rite now here in the midwest. Yesterday I thought I saw a snowflake. :o

[slaf]

What's the weather like rite now up there?

Quebec, Canada.....Today very cloudy, around 5C....Will snow soon....

[fuzzy2133]

OK I don't feel sorry, thanks for the uplifting support. :)

[Cotharyus]

Well, I'll say a few words about the sunday racing. First, I'd like to mention that I didn't win. A rather good driver showed up with a Revo, and I led the first 6 or so laps (yea, I got a hole shot on a stock Revo, T-maxx, and two .26 powered Savages with my .21 powered MGT) and then the Revo caught up to me. Turns out he'd been tangling with everyone else in the back of the field and then got cut loose from them, and caught me. We traded paint, lines, and lanes for a few turns, then he got around me. Once he got around me just started to walk away. It wasn't like he pulled away fast or anything, he just kept extending his lead. Wow. Now don't go and think I'm getting a thing for the Revo, cause I'm not, I'm just sayin' - I still love my MGT, and I think I can take him, maybe not next time, and maybe not every time, but I think I can.

Some strange things happened out there though - I bent the #*#$ out of one of my turnbuckles. Time for Ti. I was able to straighten it for the rest of the day, but I was walking on eggs all day afraid I'd bend it again. I also popped off a balllink - we've got to figure out how to keep those things on...also had some braking issues at one point I got a little push from behind going into a turn, and the truck stayed on it's wheels and under control, but it just wouldn't slow down fast enough for the turn, and went right over the bank and off the track. Must upgrade the crap factory brake disc.

[MikeWz]

Coth - The Revo was designed for the track. It's gotta be good at something, right!? You can take him though. It's really not that much advantage over you (unless you're running on a smooth track). Ti turnbuckles are def a big improvement.
Also, why don't you try running the T-maxx ball-links? It says "T-maxx only" but myself and a bunch of guys have them on the XXX-NT and it pretty much got rid of the popping off ball-links problem. It's only like $4 off Tower so if you loose them it's no big deal. You can use some of that change :p
I highly recommend the HCR brake. When I first put it on there I actually had to adjust it to have less brake power because it was tipping the truck forward. It's really nice. I'm going to be putting some CF pads on there so those should grab nice...and look pimp :cool:

[fuzzy2133]

how about taking a head shim out or reshimming the head to sit a little lower? that might give you a little bit of an edge so that revo won't be walking away. MikeWz is right it was built for the track. Could have been worse if that truck came from the factory with a .21 in it.

[Cotharyus]

Uhh...you don't mess with head shims to change COG - firstly, it can seriously impact the performance of the engine, secondly, you're talking about a *very* small difference - maybe a couple thousandths of an inch. Couple that with the fact that I've got an OS RG in mine that sets lower than the stock engine head anyhow, and it's just not the place to look.

[fuzzy2133]

I am aware of messing with the head shims, that engine is one I have been thinking about getting myself. removiung 0.001" would compansate for altitude or however much wear the piston and sleeve have been through. if the engine is new, you are right don't do it, and go with what you feel is right. the stock head shim is said to be 0.003" finding a .002" could be a problem. scratch my idea.

[MikeWz]

Messing with head shims can be a BAD idea unless you know what you're doing. The smaller the shim, the higher the compression, so you need to make sure you're not adding TOO much compression. Also, you have to make sure there's still enough clearance for the plug. People have messed up piston heads because they weren't totally aware of what they were doing.

[viper137]

how can i tell if i have a v1 or v2 gt?

[MikeWz]

Well, I wasn't aware that there are two models, but they did make very slight changes. Take out one of the CVs in the center and see if the pins that hold them together have a groove. If they don't, you have a "V1"

[slaf]

I got my Proline Velocity and Bowtie today. Those tires are very thin compre to other MT tires....Hope wheels will not bend like 40 Series. I ordered RPM Clawz too but I'll install them on Zombie later this winter.

I check my new products weight (I bought a electronic food balance for my wife's birthday !!!) cause I want a lighter MGT

Proline Bowtie tire Maxx size (with foam) -> 165g
Proline Velocity Maxx size -> 43g
RPM Claws -> 42g

Surprise....I was sure Velocity was lighter than Clawz... :eek:

I'll glue them tomorrow and do some jumps to check if wheels are tougher then 40 serie. I hope !!!! I'll check my truck weight with those tires....Hope I'm under 5Kg.

[slaf]

Here's the pic with my new tires and wheels....

[Skandranon]

I striped my spur gear because the engine vibrated loose on the top 4 screws and bolts. You have to take the bottom screws out to get to the top screws in this engine mount. The heads are 3 mm. I didnt have one of the nice drivers for that so I had to wait and use a normal allen wrench. Next problem I ran into was the screws on the top are right below the heat sink. I took the heat sink off and didn't realize that would be exposing the whole inside of the engine. I have some dirt and such build up are where the heat sink sits. So my question is is the nitro car cleaner that my LHS said is ok to use anywhere really ok to use on internal engine parts? I don't really trust what they have to say. Is there any other tips anyone has about putting this (or any) engine back together again? I have never taken an engine apart before and I don't want to ruin it :eek: because I made a newbie mistake.

[budlightnmyhand]

I striped my spur gear because the engine vibrated loose on the top 4 screws and bolts. You have to take the bottom screws out to get to the top screws in this engine mount. The heads are 3 mm. I didnt have one of the nice drivers for that so I had to wait and use a normal allen wrench. Next problem I ran into was the screws on the top are right below the heat sink. I took the heat sink off and didn't realize that would be exposing the whole inside of the engine. I have some dirt and such build up are where the heat sink sits. So my question is is the nitro car cleaner that my LHS said is ok to use anywhere really ok to use on internal engine parts? I don't really trust what they have to say. Is there any other tips anyone has about putting this (or any) engine back together again? I have never taken an engine apart before and I don't want to ruin it :eek: because I made a newbie mistake.

Use wd-40 when cleaning engine parts, nitro cleaner might work.

I just got my MGT about 10 min ago. I'm looking at the spur gear and as i rotate it, it "wobbles" I took it off and it seems to be ok but as soon as i put the spring back on it wobbles again. Shaft isn't bent i checked that out. Seems my spring is making it wobble. is that normal?

Thanks,
Mike

[fuzzy2133]

Skandranon - as long as it say for nitro engine you are good, if you don't trust it denatured alcohol will work. wd-40 would work howerver I would use as little as needed. when you reassemble the engine use after run oil on the all the internal parts so you don't start the engine up with no internal lube. taking the engine apart is no big deal only 5 parts not including the head and block. piston, sleeve, conecting rod, crank and the carb. pay attetion and use the exploded view in the manual. last thing don't rush, go slow and you can do it.

budlightnmyhand - the spur will float on the slipper pegs once power is applied to it.

[toyman64]

Mike , Yes alittle wabble in the spur gears' ok. there's no abnormal wear on mine after 3 gallons of fuel and lots of hard driv'in...

[budlightnmyhand]

Mike , Yes alittle wabble in the spur gears' ok. there's no abnormal wear on mine after 3 gallons of fuel and lots of hard driv'in...

It just seems like the spring isn't applying pressure evenly. When i set the spring on the table (longways up) it leans to the side like the part that touches the spur and the part that touches the nut on the spring weren't cut strait. When i tighten it down on the spur gear and rotate the shaft the spur gear is on it kinda like wobbles and i'm wondering if that will wear my spur gear out. It meshes ok, thereis no binding or antyhing i just think that puts un even stress on the slipper. If you look from the side of the truck the spur like goes in then back out on the clutch gear.


Sorry for my PITA question. Just dont' wanna ruin my new truck. This thing is fricken huge!! I can't seem to get the set screw out of the main drive line that goes to the front diff. I want to see which version of truck i have. I broke one allen wrench trying to get it out. Do i need to buy a set of those expensive drivers like the pro's use. All i have is normal allen wrenches. Should i heat up the set screw with a pencil torch do you think there is thread lock on there from the factory.

ALso one last thing. I might go to the LHS today should i pick up some different diff fluid. I just want to run whats going to make my car last. Get some 10,000 wt diff fluid from associates? Do i need to seal the engine with gasket sealer? I guess it can't hurt right. That way i can locktite the motor to the mounts. I read somewhere that someones' motor came loose and messed up the spur gears.

Ok i think thats enough questions. I'm just trying to be precautious. I have never ran anything this big before. I put this next to my 1/10 touring car and its like 2 time the size :)

Mike

[Cotharyus]

Budlight - make sure you look very carefully at the spur/slipper when you put it back together - there are little places where things line up, and you need to make sure the spur stays lined up so everything else well. That's about as good as I can explain that from memory :)

There is deffidently lock-tight on the screw you're refering to. As far as diff oil, run whatever makes it handle best to you - I don't think diff oil is going to make the diffs last any longer, they have some lube on them already.

I don't know how many times I've said this: *Do not* use gasket sealer on the engine. When everything is tight, the engine should seal without gasket sealer. Most gasket sealer gives off a very vineger like smell as it cures, and that's an electrolyte smell - with the different metals in the engine (specifically anywhere there'sa close tollerance or contact between steel and aluminum) the electrolyte will set up and cause corosion.

[budlightnmyhand]

Thanks Coth,
I have checked those places and they line up perfectly, the little notches on the slipper. I have taken this off and put it back on 10 times and like i said i can put everything back on the slipper hold it with my hands and spin it and it doesnt wobble. Soon as i put the spring back on it wobbles.

Also in the box that came with my truck i got like 3 small spacers. What are those for? Can i use all the shock preload things at one time??

Mike

[slaf]

Did you check your slipper pegs ? Maybe they are worn out or missing fews.

[budlightnmyhand]

Did you check your slipper pegs ? Maybe they are worn out or missing fews.


Truck is brand new, just took it out of the box and put the wheels on it. HAHA. I'm just checking over things before i run it.

Mike

[budlightnmyhand]

When i got home i ground down the part of the spring that was mis shaped and made it so when you stood the spring up it was strait. Now there is no wobble at all in the spur gear. I knew something wasn't right. One of the motor bolts was loose too.

Mike

[budlightnmyhand]

Ran my first tank through her. Man this thing can hold an idle at very rich. This thing is way way way easier to tune than my rossi pixie motor and even easier to tune than my nova mega motor! Its eaten up gas though :). This pipe is so loud. Do they make quieter ones or is that just how all .21 motors sound?

Mike

[slaf]

.21 engines are loud and MGT stock pipe is loud too :) Sounds like a 250cc motocross at idle :)

[Cotharyus]

Part of the sound level you hear is that pipe. And then, of course every engine has it's own sound to some extent.

Here's one for the guys that have been beating on these things. I was at the track today and put a hutting on the MGT for the first time in a bad way. I finally (after being told for 5 gallons of fuel that both shock towers are "weak") broke the rear shock tower. Let me tell you how "weak" that shock tower is. I came off the table top with a new suspension setup, hit it *hard*, and the engine opened up coming off the face, and the truck went right over backwards, but launched itself about 12 feet up in the air - it was horrifying to watch, probly would have looked sick if it had been someone elses truck - and it came down on the far side of the tabletop (12 foot long top) and landed on the rear of the body - in other words, the shock tower took the full impact of the hit - and it broke. Drat. That thing sure is weak huh?

Now that I've finished poking fun at the people that think the MGT is weak...the real problem is the stock shocks. I did noting with my new suspension setup but blow tops off this afternoon while testing. I've just ordered a set of factory team bodies and caps to try to prevent this from happening, hopefully it'll work. Anyone else had trouble with shocks?

[budlightnmyhand]

Cotharyus, i was just going to ask that about the shocks. They are plastic bodied. *** is that. On a monster truck? What shocks should i go with, the integy's or the FT's i'm just going to be bashing but oh boy i can feel the jumping coming!!! Let me know what would be best for bashing. Plastic not gonna hold up and they are already leaking :(

Mike

[Skandranon]

I just tightened mine up and threw some diffrent springs on them. Those shocks are stronger than they look. Mine have taken a beating and so far they held up very well for plastic.

[Cotharyus]

Budlight - As long as you stick to some sort of reasonable setup, you're going to be fine for at least the life of the stock engine. My shocks are giving up because I'm running a 4 shock setup with 80 wt oil and copper springs. I will decline to give you advice on which shock to buy, I have heard the integy is very good (mikewz uses them I think) but I don't know much about the FT's other than they are associated hop ups. I went with those because I know I can have them here wednesday of next week to play with some before the sunday race, and I can get them in sets of 4.

[Chevy-SS]

Budlight, you're right about that MGT stock pipe. I think it is one of the very loudest pipes out there. It's obnoxiously loud.

Regarding shocks, I use the factory shocks for racing and I blow the top off one occasionally. It only happens when I badly miss a landing and hit hard. Then a top will blow off, or a shaft will bend. I like the stock shocks cause they're easy to remove and fix, plus they seem easy to tune. I run all eight shocks with red/copper on each corner and I vary the oil between 30w to 45w. Coth here (up above) says he's only running with four stock shocks. That's amazing. I would think he'd be blowing tops off every few minutes. With all eight shocks you should be fine.

I have two sets of Integy shocks, which I don't use. If you get the Integy shocks, be prepared to use 80w to 100w oil to get them to work.

[MikeWz]

I'm running the Inetgy 4 shocks. They have 5 out now with new heatsink piggybacks and all, but I figure that another $100 isn't worth it just so I can have the newest piggyback technology. I have no problem with my integy's at all. I'm running 50wt oil all around and red/gold spring combo. I'm also running the same pistons that are in the MGT stock (believe it's two holes). I really like them a lot. I haven't broken a top off yet.

The stock shocks are decent though. I only broke one top. The only thing is that the stock springs make the suspension SUPER plush. Like....way too plush. Running on anything more than some kind of sand you're more than likely to flip it over.

[Cotharyus]

Chevy - the first time I tried a 4 shock setup, I went with 50 wt oil, because it was what I had at the time, and the copper springs. The problem was that the 50 wt wasn't enough damping. The 80 wt is good, but I ran three tanks at the track testing - and let me say, this setup feels like a keeper - and blew the tops off of two shocks. I figure with aluminum bodies and caps, I should be able to play with 90 and 100 wt to see how that works out. I think the copper springs will work, although I may have to find something just a touch heavier. What's driving all of this? Frankly, it's a matter of weight. Knocking 3 ounces of weight off of one of these trucks isn't exactly chump change in the weight department, when that three ounces is putting me at almost 2 ounces under 10 lbs.

Let me put it this way. There's a section on my track that is supposed to be a double. The problem is, no one (and that means no one) can consistantly double it currently. Now with stadium trucks, not with MT's and not even with buggies. With a four shock setup, I can downside the double consistantly enough to try it in a race. That'll give me almost two seconds a lap on anyone who doesn't use the double as a double. And that would be everyone else.

[Skandranon]

I noticed today that I have bent both my front turnbuckles. What would you guys recomend as a stronger replacment? Any links would be wonderful.

Do bodies for the savage fit this truck?

What about wheels, what fits?

As always thanks everyone this board rocks!

[MikeWz]

Skan - Go for either the FT blue titanium turnbuckles or the Lunsford racing titanium turnbuckles. It just depends on how much you're willing to spend and what color you like :p

As for bodies, yes, the Savage bodies do fit. But they look kinda funny. They are a little smaller than the standard MGT bodies and will look a little off

As for wheels. At least both the Savage and Maxx wheels fit. There may be others out there that fit, but any of the rims that fit on either of those trucks will fit on the MGT

[slaf]

I run mine with 50wt and red springs on 4 corners. No leak after 1 gallon.

This winter I'll change stock shocks for FT bodies and caps. It's expensive but will last forever and they look nice...

[budlightnmyhand]

I have run over a 1/4 gallon now through my truck. I have played with it for a couple hours today :) Its so awesome!! I ran into the light post out front and dented it half way through. opps... Nothing on the truck except for a scratch on the bumper. I also ran over some dog crap someone left in my yard :( I have flipped it already maybe over 25 times with only 3 times i had to go back and flip it over :) This thing seems indestructable. Except for my body, its bent all over and the stock roll bar is almost through the top. Overall i would give this car a 10 out of 10 for durability. I was beating hard on the motor on the 3rd tank (my personal preference on break in method) I will try the 14 tooth clutch bell but i think i might want a little more power. Might need to just give it time to break in fully. Overall i couldn't be happier with this truck.

Mike

[Skandranon]

Thanks mike! I went to the LHS today and asked around on the turnbuckles. I ended up ordering a pair of FTs.

[Cotharyus]

Skandranon - do you have a set of postal scales? If so, could you weigh the stock turnbuckles and the FT's when you get them, and let me know what, if any the weight difference is? Thanks.

[Hudler]

Could someone give me the measurment of the stock pipe, I want to see how close it is to the stock revo pipe, also how does it perform, I have not had time to read this whole thread, so a couple of opinions of the pipe woiuld be appreciated.

[MikeWz]

The stock pipe is decent. It's really pretty loud. I actually find it too small for a .21 though. Not exactly sure why they did that. It's like a .15 pipe. It's really hard to compare pipes by measurements, I don't that'll really give you an idea of the power differences. It's not only the lenght, but how wide it is, the angle of the divergent cone (the cone closest to the coupler) and the angle of the convergent cone. You'd also have to consider the length of the header.

[slaf]

I'm not sure that the MGT pipe will fit Revo. MGT pipe is bigger than .15 pipe but looks a little bit smaller than other .21 pipe. This pipe is more for torque than RPM.... One thing is sure....It's loud !

[Skandranon]

Yes I do coth and I will give you those when they come in.

[Cotharyus]

Thanks Skandranon - I look forward to seeing that information. I should also warn yall that when my new shocks come in you'll be due for another round of pictures and some updates to what I'm doing to the truck. If everything works out right, I could actually get the MGT down to about the weight of a box stock T-Maxx without buying any "light weight" upgrade parts - then we'll put on a real show when I get the Ti goodies and FT chasis.

[slaf]

I also ordered FT turnbuckle but they are BO from my distributor :(

Coth -> What are you doing to your MGT ? What shock dis you order ?

Last time I've checked my truck weight it was around 5000g but this was with TMaxx wheel/tires. My new proline are lighter. I'll weight the truck tonight.

Here's what I have done to get the truck lighter:
- installed Forward kit
- cut shock reservoir
- remove reverse servo
- put a set of Proline Velocity with Bowties Maxx size
- remove rear body clip

[slaf]

I checked my truck and some parts weight....

MGT (no fuel, hump pack installed) -> 4946g (10,8812 pounds) Still some diet to do !

Reverse servo -> 51g
Rear body clip -> 7g
8 shocks reservoir I cut -> 33g
Removed parts from my Forward kit (servo not included) -> 168g

MGT Front bumper -> 86g
MGT Rear bumper -> 81g
MGT 1 complete CVA -> 34g
MGT 8 hinge pins -> 55g
MGT Chassis (roll bar + mud guard) -> 554g

RC10GT -> 2039g :)

Lighter CVA and hing pins should be nice.....

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - Here's my list (or what I remember)
FOC
Remove shock resivoirs
Remove reverse servo
Cut reverse servo mounts out of radio tray
Proline Velocity + Maxx Bowties
Remove rocking body mounts - my body is mounted directly to the posts that the normal body mounts screw into
trim front and rear bumpers - no extensions, both front and rear cut down to the braces
Trim mud guards
Remove roll bar (note, you could also just shorten this and save some weight)
remove steering servo guard (who needs it on the track?)

It seems like there should be more. Anyhow, I ordered the FT shocks and tops, and I'm probly going to go back to running a 4 shock setup. It was working fairly well before the stock shocks decided they didn't like 80wt oil and blew up, I'm going to mess with 90wt once I have the FT's in, because that'll be closer to the damping I was using with 8 shocks. I'll keep yall updated.

[slaf]

Coth -> You did almost the same mods as RCCA did in the Monster truck mag.

I think the best and easiest way to have a better lbs/hp ratio is the upgrade the engine....But for now my AE .21 is enough....

[budlightnmyhand]

Yeah, i have about a half gallon through my stock motor with the stock pipe and this thing hauls. I don't think i will need any more power, unless i ever get to drive one with more power. I think this is enough. I ordered new springs today. These damn blue ones are way to soft for what i'm jumping. I keep taking huge chunks out of the hard like 2 inches deep with both the front and rear skid plates. This thing is very stable jumping though. I love it. I had my whole hard smelling like nitro the other day. It was sweet!! i drove it for 3 hours non stop except when i landed to hard and busted the damn steering servo. Nothing a little rigging can't fix.

Does the FT steering thing do anything for just a basher or it more race oriented?

Thanks,
Mike

[Cotharyus]

slaf - That's where the inspiration came from, but I think my truck is lighter than thiers was because I haven't put a *huge* engine on it. Of course, stay tuned for more updates on lightening things up...

Budlight - I think the FT steering thing will probly help just about anyone, but I suspect it might be a little heavier than the stock setup.

For the record, my FT shocks and caps came in today, and I weighed things once they were built. The stock shocks are 3oz per set of 4, the FT shocks are 4.2oz per set of 4, but remember, I took two sets of stock shocks off, and put one set of FT shocks on. Here shortly I'll post an update about the springs I picked up for this four shock setup, and what I think of them.

[fuzzy2133]

I managed to run my truck for a few minutes with the tt in it and I see what Mike was saying about the .26's having a flat middle power band. with the tt a minor throttle adjustment gave you a response that the .26 would not. you had to give the .26 at least 3/4 throttle to get it moving.

Hey Mike where did you go? any luck on an engine choice? out on vacation?

Budlight - the FT steering will remove the stock servo mounted saver and give you an adjustable stronger servo saver that will really shine if you were to get a stronger & faster steering servo and an aluminum servo arm.

[MikeWz]

Heh. Naw, I just haven't had much time to run lately. School...girl....money. I don't think I'll be really running again untill christmas break. I'm pretty sure I'm getting a Fantom .21, or going with a .27 and having Maverick Racer port it to get it to have more power in the middle. Depends on how much moneh I can come up with. Probably just the FR-21 though.

[slaf]

Coth -> What's your gear ratio ? I'm running the same as you.....Proline Maxx Bowties...Mine is 17/49...

[Cotharyus]

I'm running 16/49 myself. I've considered stepping up to a 17 tooth cb, how's your acceleration?

[slaf]

Acceleration is fine and I got good top speed but it's hard to compare with others truck, I should do a drag race....

[MikeWz]

I'd highly recommend getting like 3 clutch bells and running them around the track. Go with like 3-5 laps with each one and see which one will allow you to push the best times.

[slaf]

It's a good idea but I'm planning to build my own track (100x50) in my backyard. I'll need to wait this spring. I was racing on a BMX track but others drivers prefer demolition derby to racing....

Now I'm more looking for a track layout :)

[Cotharyus]

Well, lets see. First the truck. Here's what I've got on there now for shocks since I've built the FT's up. Four shocks, running 90wt oil and New Horizons super duty MGT springs. I went out on a limb and bought them because the copper's weren't stiff enough for a four shock setup I didn't think. Are they stiffer? Yep. How much stiffer? Well, I was running two large preload clips and one medium large clip on each of the four shocks with the copper springs, I'm runing two large on the back and one large and one medium large on the front to get a ride height just slightly over arms level.

So how's it work? Well, I can't speak for on a track yet, since all the tracks around here are total mud holes right now, but I did check a few of my bash spots today and found one that was ...well, there wasn't any water *standing* on most of it. There's no big air at this spot, but no shortage of rough ground and a few small jumps. This setup is stable, well behaved, and soaked up the rough ground without bottoming out or getting out of shape. Overall experience, two thumbs up, I didn't break any shocks, and so far so good. But I will not fully endorse this setup until I've had it on the track. That could be a week or two away. Meanwhile, I'll continue to throw all the dry bash spots I can find at it.

The final weight on the truck in it's current setup, I cannot account for. It's much higher than I expected based on the last time I weighed it, all I can figure is my scales were off then, or are off now, but I don't think they're off now. The truck sets dead on 10.5lbs with a half a tank of fuel, ready to go.

Slaf - check out the two track designs in the walk throughs on my track's web site http://wilderness.dyn.dhs.org/maxxtrack/pictures/ - Most people think the newer setup is *a lot* of fun. It's got a little of everything, and believe it or not, will fit in your 100x50 area.

[slaf]

Thanks for the link....

I don't understand.... Your MGT is just .3lb lighter than mine :confused: :confused: :confused: But mine was empty of fuel...

[slaf]

I know it's not the track making forum but here's the track I'd like to build....10ft wide lane all around. Jumps are not defenitive (hope it's an English word :) )

Is 10ft wide enough for my MGT and RC10GT ???

[fuzzy2133]

you might want to make off 10ft wide and see if 2 or 3 trucks can be set side by side with room for maneuvering.

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - 10 ft should be plenty of room, that's what the average lane width on our track is, and in places it's only 5 feet, but we can still pass people on it. The changing widths make things interesting, because the widest parts of the track aren't the easiest places to pass all the time.

The only thing I can come up with on the weight issue so far, is the last time the truck was weighed it was with the stock engine and pipe. I *know* the fantom pipe is a good bit heavier than the stock pipe, but I'm willing to accept a little weight penalty for the performance there. I'm not sure how the engines compare weight wise.

[Skandranon]

Has anyone noticed a difference without the plastic pipe deflector? I lost mine and I think it affected my tune.

I got the front turnbuckles today. I will let you know how they compare (weight) when I install them later this weekend.

[fuzzy2133]

the way I understand it is on a tuned pipe the stinger length is part of the design along with the cones and length of the system. so the deflector can change the engines tune since it makes the stinger longer.

[Cotharyus]

If memory serves on this one, fuzzy is right. I actually removed the deflector on the stock pipe almost imediately, because I took one look at it and said to myself, "Self, the first time you run this thing up on the pipes at the track, it's gonna pinch that deflector between that suspension arm and that pipe and kill the engine. You better fix that old son." - so I took it off.

In other news, while I still couldn't get to the track yesterday, I did get my truck to a pretty cool bash spot I know of. It's about a 20 foot high bank with several two foot wide terraces near the top. Driving off the top at about half throttle results in a couple of nice drop jumps, and if you kick the brakes just a touch coming off the last terrace, it really gets down into the rest of the bank, and screams down the transition off onto an old road up through the woods. Coming back up, if you can make it up the bank slowly - but why? If you hit it hard, you can do some serious air on the terraces. So I beat on it pretty hard and everything stayed together, and it continued to handle well. I still want to put it on a track though. Unfortunately, all of our tracks are still mud around here.

[MikeWz]

Hah. It doesn't really affect the tune, as the stinger wasn't designed to work with the whole wave thing necessarily. I totally does have an effect on sound though. It's def less..."muffled" (for lack of a better word).

I didn't even have to remove mine, the truck did it for me. I was doing jumps about 7ish feet high one day, and when I went to pinch it to turn it off...only half of it was there. It's enough to get out of the way, but not get pinched. Works perfectly. :cool:

As of tomorrow, I'll be running it side exhaust though, so it'll be pretty useless to run that.

[fuzzy2133]

here is a link about every thing you want to know about a tuned pipe. I know there are more sites out there that talk about a tuned pipe design and ways to get more power out of them. just need to run a search on the search engines.

Adrian's Speed Demons Radio Controlled Car Racing
http://web.singnet.com.sg/~adriant/rc-exhaust.html#principles

[JamminJay]

Looking for a MGT.... trading a 1/8 scale buggy for one...if your interested or getting rid of yours and want a buggy please Email me JamminJay1722@aol.com

[slaf]

I think than a longer stinger will affect carb tuning. Longer stinger produce more pressure into fuel tank so engine runs richer. Remove the deflector and you engine will run a little little little bit leaner. This is what I think, maybe I'm wrong :)

But this is minimal carb tunnings.

For example: Take a 6 inches long straw in a glass of water and try to push air to make bubbles is easier than if you straw was 3 ft long....So it takes more pressure to escape gases from a longer stinger.

[slaf]

Coth -> I got my FT titanium turnbuckles today :) I didn't have time to check their weight but they seem to be much lighter than stock ones.

[budlightnmyhand]

I think than a longer stinger will affect carb tuning. Longer stinger produce more pressure into fuel tank so engine runs richer. Remove the deflector and you engine will run a little little little bit leaner. This is what I think, maybe I'm wrong :)

But this is minimal carb tunnings.

For example: Take a 6 inches long straw in a glass of water and try to push air to make bubbles is easier than if you straw was 3 ft long....So it takes more pressure to escape gases from a longer stinger.


Well when my plastic stinger extender would fall off today the engine would run really rich for some reason. It DOES make a huge difference.

Mike

[slaf]

Stock short turnbuckle (steering) -> 10g
FT short turnbuckle (steering) -> 5g

FT turnbuckles are half weight as stock ones. You will save about 22g....for 34$ :)


Now I need to find some lighter hinge pins...:)



BudLight -> Your engine was running richer with stinger removed ?

[Cotharyus]

For people counting ounces and not grams (shouldn't the world be metric...it'd be easier - 22 grams is .77 ounces.

[slaf]

Will you install FT turnbuckles ?

[Cotharyus]

Yep. A little over a half an ounce is a little over a half an ounce. If you take it off a truck, especially in the form of unsprung weight, you *will* find some performance difference. Unsprung weight and rotating mass are the two most effective things you can remove from something to make it faster on the track and/or handle better.

[budlightnmyhand]

Yes my motor was running richer. I was jumping this jump i had in the back yard . Take in mind the motor was already warmed up, i was running it on the rich side cause i changed fuels. I was going for a good five minutes jumping the ramp, running it around the yard to bring it back to hit the ramp, then all of a sudden it lands and i go to apply the throttle like i did for the last five minutes and the motor wouldn't "clear" out the fuel so it means it was running richer than before. So i held the throttle fully open and it never cleared. I was like what the hell. It wouldn't go over 10mph or so and i gave it more than ample amount of time to clear. So i brought the car over to me and picked it up and noticed the rubber stinger extender was gone. So i went by the ramp and found it on the ground. Put it back on the exhaust ( the truck was running the whole time) and set it down and gave it some throttle. It screamed just like it did before the stinger fell off. I was like interesting. Must be a coincidence. Nope, it happened again about 2 jumps later, the motor wouldn't clear out and wouldn't go over 10mph. Went right over to the ramp and found the rubber stinger extender on the ground. Put it back on the exhaust and the car performed like i wanted it to.

I got new springs for my shocks and i put some thicker fluid in there and the car handles better now. I am currently running the red, copper springs with 50 wt. I think it still might be a little stiff. I might try going down to red gold springs with the same weight oil and then try the red gold with 45 wt oil and probably some other combinations. But springs are alot easier to change than oil. I might just need to take out a preload spacer too. I have about 3/8 of an inch in preload spacers. Might try taking out the biggest spaces i have in there and see before i change the springs. It hasn't bottomed out yet. Still a little to easy for me to roll the truck.

Does anyone else have problems with loosing body clips? Mine fall off everytime i flip or roll my truck no matter how hard or soft it rolls.

Mike

[MikeWz]

Slaf - Thanks for the weight info. Will be getting the FT turnbuckles now. As for hinge pins, check out the lunsford racing Ti hinge pin set. They are Ti so I'm sure they'll be a fair amount lighter than stock.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGDZ8&P=7

[slaf]

BUD -> I was loosing body clip too until I installed them by inserting from front to the rear...(Hope you understand my english !)

Coth -> Unsprunh weight....Maybe we should change pivot balls too ! Theyre are heavy...

Does someone know what the weight of the stock engine ??

[slaf]

By the way...We are all here exchanging info, tips and tricks about our MGT's but it should be nice to know our age and where we are from...Don't you know ?

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - the pivot balls are at the top of my list, right witht he turnbuckles.

I'm 27 (close enough to 28 to go on and say 28) and I'm located close to Nashville TN.

[MikeWz]

Turnbuckles, Hinge Pins and Pivot Balls all take away a fair amount of weight. I just ordered a set from HCR. Apparently they are a big lighter. I was thinking about getting the RDL teflon coated ones too, just for the smoother motion, but decided that weight was more important.

Here are a few to choose from:

http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_202.htm
http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_201.htm
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGDS6&P=7

[budlightnmyhand]

I'm 23 and i'll be 24 in 9 days from today. I live in Amherst, Ohio.

Slaf - I understand what you said about the body clips, i have tried it both ways. Once i lost all 4 of them in a crash and the friggen body flew off.

[budlightnmyhand]

Slaf - i just noticed you joined this forum 2 years ago on my birthday. Sorry for rambling, just thought that was kinda cool.

Mike

[slaf]

I'm 33 ( Oh my god, I'm the older one :) ) I'm network administrator and I'm from Québec Canada (We use to speak french and this why my english a not perfect at all)...I'm driving RC since 1991 (RC10T) take a rc break from 1993 to 1999. Since 1999 I'm a big big big RC fan...I owned many Nitro RCs but now I have a RC10T (still have original tires), RC10GT, MGT and my RC18T is coming soon. To get cash to buy RC parts and trucks I'm parting out RCs (no ads here !). I have a 14 months old son and he's already a RC addict as his dad :)

And just to let you know... Temp forecast for tommorow....6 inches of snow !!!

I'll buy some lighter pivots, FT shock caps and bodies, new skids plates, side exhaust manifold and maybe FT steering kit and FT chassis this winter. I love blue ! Also maybe a XTM Servo from Mamooth....172oz of torque.

[budlightnmyhand]

I just got a deal on a bunch of stuff for the MGT off ebay. COuldnt pass this stuff up. I also a computer resource specialist for a college. haha. I drive the crap out of my truck when i get time between school and work. I want some snow!!! This thing will be so much fun in the snow!

Mike

[slaf]

I ran my Savage in snow last winter...This was very funny. I'm a little bit nervous to run my baby MGT in snow...Want to keep it in good shape...But running in snow it's the funniest way to clean a RC :)

[slaf]

Bud -> The best I can do is to post a picture of all snow we'll get tommorow ! ahahahah

[MikeWz]

Running in the snow is totally awesome. Just don't forget to prep the truck. Put a balloon on the RX, and run silicone sealant around the joint in the servos. That should cover you pretty well. I can't wait to run mine in the snow (actually looking forward to ripping up the slopes too...snowboarding that is).

Oh yeah, and I'm 19 and I'm from Long Island, NY (going to school just north of Boston, Mass now though).

[budlightnmyhand]

Slaf - that would be awesome, post some pics if you can of your truck ripping up the snow! We do not get snow like that here in ohio. We usually get a 1/4 of an inch and it melts the same day. Sometimes we get some nice snow.

MikeWz - my brother snow boards but everytime he goes he breaks his wrist. He does stupid crap that he shouldn't be doing, he's going to college to play baseball. He's good, his wrist just keeps breaking in the same spot.

Mike

[slaf]

Bud -> Your brother should get a FT Titanium wrist :)

I'll find better tires than my bowties for snow...I have an old set of TMaxx tires....This should be fine for snow action....

[MikeWz]

Slaf- You still have the stock tires? They are actually a lot like T-maxx tires, but just bigger so they'll have more surface area. Will help keep you in control a bit better.

Bud- Heh. He should just relax then. Not worth messing up a college baseball career for snowboarding. I do stupid crap too, but after falling enough, you learn how to fall the "right way", so that you can minimize the damage.