Team Associated Monster GT V2.0

[slaf]

Mike -> The stock tires are sold ! I want to keep Maxx size tires because I don't want to change my gear ratio.

[slaf]

Here's my MGT with his new body....Not A1 job but look better than my old body :)

[fuzzy2133]

I like it slaf! the simple paint jobs always look the best and you are not so concerned about all the time spent when you crash.

[MikeWz]

Yeah dude looks pretty nice. Truck is clean too :p

When I come up with some extra cash to spend, I'ma have to pick me up the new crowd pleazer for racing. Use the stock body to bash with.

[slaf]

It's the AE body lexan is really thin...:(

[slaf]

Anyone tried the XTM X-175 servo ??? 175oz-in of torque :) I'm plannig to put one in my MGT....This is what I call "Power steering" :)

And it's only 35$ !

[budlightnmyhand]

I really don't see any problems with the way it steers now. Doesn't steer that well unless your moving but i don't see any reason for it to need to. I do seem to beat my truck up pretty badly but its holding up fairly well.

Mike

[slaf]

I have no problem with the stock servo but I want to put the stock servo for brake/throttle and get something with more torque for the steering...

But swapping servos is more luxury than usefull !

[budlightnmyhand]

I was getting some major air with this truck today. Its so stable in the air and easy to tilt forward and backward depending how i screwed up on the launch. I still don't know if its shifting into second gear or not, or if its already in second gear when i start. Gonna have to start playing around with that now. I already need a new body. Pretty soon this one isn't going to stay on.

Mike

[Cotharyus]

That XTM servo has a lot of power, but it's very slow. I'm running a Futaba 3305 for my steering, thats about as slow as I'd like to go. Unfortunately, the steering servo that I really like for monster trucks is about $140 USD on Tower.

[slaf]

140$ for a steering servo.....Too much for me at this time. I have no complaint about the stock one, just wanted something with more torque.

There is about 2 inches of snow here....I can't decide if I will run my MGT in snow or not... I like to take care about my trucks. I'm thinking about getting a HPI NMT, Savage or TMaxx just for snow bashing....

[Cotharyus]

Do yourself a favor - skip the NMT - I had one, and it was fun, but you are *constantly* fixxing it. If you really wanted to be wretched about bashing, just get a second MGT you can use as a beater.

[slaf]

Yes but used MGT are rare and more expensive than others MT....

[fuzzy2133]

the T-maxx and Savage can be a pain to work on at times check into getting a refurbished MGT from AE.

[slaf]

Refurbished MGT is 387$us = 465$cnd...How can I convince my wife that's a good buy !

I'll sacrifice my MGT and drive it in snow...

[MikeWz]

Coth - What servo are you looking at? I've been running the airtronics 94358 and it works amazing? $140 is really expensive (not that $108 isn't :p )

Slaf - You'll be fine driving it in the snow. Just use a blow dryer to melt off all the extra snow, and use an old cloth to wipe it down, especially by the CVs and all (just so they don't get rusty or anything)

[slaf]

I got FT blue balloon for my servos I'll install them this week and put old tmaxx tires, duck tape windshield hole.

[Cotharyus]

Mike - you're close, I'm talking about the 359 - the biggest (only?) difference is one gear, its metal in the 359, and plastic in the 358. We get buck wild and yank the servo saver out and throw a 359 on a truck, and it really snaps up the steering, but if you try to run a 358 without the saver, it'll toast that plastic gear. As long as you keep the saver, the 358 is top notch.

[Skandranon]

Hey guys! I havent loged in in so long that the board forgot to remember me, :cool: . I still havent installed the turnbuckles on my truck coth, sorry for the delay. It got cold out, I ran out of gas, and I am a freeze baby so I stoped running, possably for the winter. Then I picked up the new grand theft and I was lost in the vidieo game void. Just wanted to drop in and say hi!

[slaf]

So what's up guys ?

[MikeWz]

Skan - Haha, I totally know where you're coming from. It's been really cold out here too, so I haven't run for a while. I'll probably run it once I had back home to Long Island for thanksgiving break. It wont' really be any warmer, but I'll have another kid to bash with, which makes it a lot more fun. Also, I just got Halo 2...so of course I've been playing that. It's officially the devil. Definitely pulls me away from my work, and lot of other stuff I should be doing instead :o

[budlightnmyhand]

I used to play video games on the console. I had PS2 but i broke so many controllers because of my temper i decided to stop playing PS2. Now i just stick to Counter Strike on the computer and i beat on the desk when i get mad. Less things break this way, although i have been through like 5 mice already :(

Mike

[ambryatim]

Hey fella's I just bought a used MGT with several hop-ups one which I have question about. It has the MS4 shocks from Integy and I have heard that these shock suck, and that they dont have much damping effect. Is this true or can it be corrected with the right fluid and spring combination??? it has the springs that came with the integy shocks and 45w fluid I think....any help would be great.

Tim

[fuzzy2133]

Halo 2 very nice choice I had to take a break from it tonight, Counter Strike, lol can you say use knife in back of the sniper. I love both games, counter strike games get old when you get noobs that hack just to be good.

this just explains why my shocks still need to be rebuilt and are still on the truck.

[budlightnmyhand]

I get so annoyed when a noob is hacking in counter strike, yet they still suck. They cause lag spikes for everyone else. When i'm in a server and no one is hacking i'm usually pretty good. The last few times i was up there in the top 1 or 2 people on the server for the night. I don't cheat in that game, i use STEAM so i can't cheat or i would loose my account.

As far as the shocks, i haven't heard to many good things about the MR4's. I guess the MR5's are a little better. To get piggy back shocks to do any kind of dampening i read on www.monstergtforum.com that people are using 80 - 100 weight oil and the stiffest springs and 1 or 2 hole pistons just to keep the dampening the same or a little better than stock. Also those shocks are made for the T-maxx which is a 1/10 scale truck and alot smaller and less weight. They weren't designed for a 1/8 MGT so they probably won't work as good as people thought. Who cares if they have resevoirs, they look like they hold less oil than the stock shock does so the oil would heat up just the same and i don't think it will provide any more dampening.

Do you still have the stock shocks? Johnhobbyworld on ebay is selling the stock ones, complete set of 8 brand new for 34.99 with like 7 dollars shipping. I ordered myself a set just to have as a backup.

Hope this helps,
Mike

[MikeWz]

MSR4 shocks were made for both the T-maxx and MGT. They have two different models. They also have them for the Savage. If you have the ones for the Maxx (there's a good chance, as they first model were for the Maxx, but they advertised them as fitting the MGT and a lot of people bought them), then you're going to have to jack up the weight in the oil a lot. I run MSR4s on mine, and I'm running 50wt oil and a Gold/red spring combo. I do plan on getting 4 MSR5s and running just a 4 shock combo with copper springs and 100wt oil. We'll see when teh cash moneh allows for that mod.

[budlightnmyhand]

They never really made the shocks for the MGT, they just made a "shock mounting kit" i have never seen them advertised just for the MGT. I don't see how the t-maxx and mgt shocks could be interchangeable. They are just not built for this big of a truck. Correct me if i'm wrong. Just my 2 cents :)

Mike

[slaf]

Alot of people use Maxx shocks on MGT but Maxx shocks are not the same lenght as stock MGT. I checked some Maxx shoxks for my MGT and the conclusion was to buy FT Shock bodies and caps.

Depending of the companies, some Maxx shocks are longer than others, have different diameter and different compressed lenght.

[MikeWz]

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=2426&p_catid=69&sid=4wSJJh10F5LUCWE-51104564275.5a

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=2716&p_catid=69&sid=4wSJJh10F5LUCWE-51104564275.5a

The ones for the Maxx are slightly short I believe...it's a pretty small amount, but it does make a difference. The New MSR5 shocks are definitely much nicer though. Looking forward to getting 4 of them...but they're not cheap so it probably won't happen for a while. Considering it's winter Snowboarding takes priority right now. Also hoping to get out to visit my girlfriend in Washington for X-mas...but that = $430....so we'll see :(

[slaf]

Side exhaust ???

Did you notice any changes when you installed the side exhaust manifold with the stock tuned pipe ?

[Cotharyus]

I don't think there is any performance difference with the stock pipe and side exhaust manifold. The advantage to the side exhaust, is you can put a full length pipe on with it - notice how short the stock pipe is.

[slaf]

The stock pipe is short but this is a "torque" pipe...Am I right ? (Hope it's a english sentence ! ahahah)

[MikeWz]

The stock pipe would be considered a "torque" pipe, yes. A general rule of thumb is a shorter pipe with a sharper divergent cone angle (Wider pipes) will be torque pipes, and a longer pipe (usually two-chambers) with a less pronounced angle will be your RPM pipe. The biggest difference in a two-chamber pipe is not so much higher RPMs, but that is smooths out the power band. It will relieve any flat spots in the engines power curve.

[Cotharyus]

I was able to do a little heavy jumping with the FT shocks. Yall hold off on imitating my setup for a while - it looks like the piston inside one of my shocks has self destructed, because it hasn't leaked any oil, or it'd be a mess (and it's not) but I'm not getting any damping from that shock. It could be we just can't do this four shock thing, because I don't think it's going to work without heavy shock oil, and I keep breaking things because of heavy shock oil. I'm going to try another piston with slightly larger holes, and see, but I'm starting to wonder about this.

[MikeWz]

Coth - How many heats/races/pratices do you get out of a set of bow-ties? Just wondering how much I'm looking at spending. Need to put aside about $500 for this summer, so I need to see what I've got to work with and what other mods and stuff I can get

[Cotharyus]

Mike - I've been running the same set of bowties since I got the truck. Mind you, I only run them on the track when I'm testing or racing, but since my track is made of topsoil (did you see page 8 in decembers High Torque R/C Car?) it doesn't wear the tires out like blue groove can. When I'm bashing around, I run the stockers.

[MikeWz]

Okay cool. I'm totally gonna run the zombie maxx tires when I'm just bashing around. They do just fine for me. And when I bash, it's not usually around the track or on pavement. It's usually pretty hardcore bashing.
I was just wondering because when I had my XXX-NT it was pretty much a pair of rears ever race day. Usually two heats and a main so it go pretty expensive.

[slaf]

I ran my MGT in snow today. Got some problem with engine..Maybe snow on my air filter or glow plug, forced me to stop everything :( This little ride cleaned my truck for winter time...:)

Anyway I ran for 1 tank in 2-3 inches of snow with my bowties :) This was totaly crazy !!!!

[slaf]

MikeWZ -> I ran bowties on my RC10GT and they did not last long too. I switched for Gladiator and they seem to last forever.... I have bowties on mt MGT too, they seem to last long time since it's 4x4 and wheels don't spin as they do on a nitro stadium.

[MikeWz]

Slaf- what happpened to your engine?
See, I actually stopped running bow-ties on my NT because I found T-2000s in red compound (losi's) to hook-up better. The didn't last as long as bowties even, because they're softer. Glad to hear that the bow-ties last longer on the MT.

[slaf]

MikeWZ -> I don't know, the engine was running fine for about 3/4 of the tank and then no respond (bugging) at high throttle, then no respond too at middle throttle and finaly just idling and then died ! I look at my air filter and it was clugged with snow :( I also check my glow plug and it was not the glow plug I ever seen.

I discovered that the MGT is not the best for snow action. There is alot of snow entering the body from the fronts wheels when turning and all those mud guards keep the snow onboard. The tranny, fuel tank, receiver box, steering servo, spur gears and all around engine was completly covered by snow.

Right now I'm looking at my RC10GT and it seems to be more appropriate for snow riding, fenders are more protecting the chassis and it's 2wd, no snow will enter from the front wheel.

[Cotharyus]

Yea, all 4wd's will throw a lot of snow off the front wheels. We haven't gotten any snow here yet (probly won't see any snow til I visit my family at christmas) but I do intend to give it a try in the snow. For the record, I think the stock tires (which I know you sold slaf - I'm just saying, I'd look into finding something like it) would work much better on snow than bowties.

[slaf]

Coth -> I have a set of TMAXX tires, maybe I'll run them in snow....:)

[fuzzy2133]

slaf - just wondering if the fuel in the fuel tank seemed thicker than normal when it started to run poor. it is common in cold weather for diesel and gas to get cold enough to where they are kinda wax like and it is really had to get the fuel to flow in that state.

just a though that crossed my mind since the fuel tank had snow around it.

[slaf]

It's a good idea fuzzy, temps was around -5C. I'll try to start my truck this weekend, I'll see if I got the same problem...

[Cotharyus]

I can tell you that diesel doesn't start to do this until its about -10F. Gas has to be colder than that. I don't know about nitro, but I can't imagine it starts at a much higher temp. It was probly just the air filter being clogged.

[slaf]

I already ran nitro at colder temperature and this was running fine. My glow plug was looking bad (can't keep engine running without glow igniter) and air filter was clogged with snow all around...

[slaf]

I think I'll clean my MGT and store it for the rest of winter. I do still have bottoming problem and I can't find answer !

[slaf]

How high is your ride height on your MGT ? I have some suspension setting problems..:(

[Chevy-SS]

Most guys set ride height to "bones level", meaning that if you raise the front (or rear) of the truck 8 or 10 inches and then drop it, the dogbones would return to a level setting. That should get your ride height pretty close to optimal. After that, if you're bottoming out, start by looking at springs and shock oil. Maybe use heavier for both, but that will affect ride. Also, the stock MGT tires are pretty good for bashing (but not for racing) as they are tall and might help prevent bottoming out.

[slaf]

Is this what you mean by "bone level" ??

[Chevy-SS]

Yeah, you got the "bones level" perfect. But I see your problem about bottoming out. You are running the RPM arms, which (by design) limit the "droop". The droop is the amount the arms hang down when you pick up the truck (by the chassis) and let the wheels hang free.

This means you have less suspension travel available to absorb landings, therefore you will have issues with bottoming out. RPM arms are strong, no doubt, but I was not happy with this result, so I took them off my truck and put the updated factory arms back on. The stock arms have been updated and strengthened and work very well, plus they allow full suspension travel.

[slaf]

Chevy -> I bent the tabs on the front and the rear skid plate to have full droop. I still bottom out. I think the problem are my shocks. I changed oil for 50wt but I'm not a shock expert....

If I drop down my truck from 2 ft high, I can clearly hear my skid plate hitting the ground.

[MikeWz]

Slaf - Unless you're racing the truck raise the ride height. I've got my truck quite a bit above bones being level when I'm bashing. This is simply because I don't want to bottom out too terribly hard. I have it set to a point where it won't flip over unless I push it really hard in a turn, and it doesn't bottom out too hard either. Yes, it does still bottom out, but I bet you can't find another truck that won't bottom out on the jumps I'm going over

[slaf]

MikeWz -> Does it mean that "racers" bottom out when jumping 3-4 ft high at races ??

[Chevy-SS]

Slaf, if you can drop it two feet and only bottom a little, I would say that's pretty good. You can raise the ride height, as MikeWz suggests, but I would not do that if you're doing any racing. For bashing, it would be fine. Still, bones level is optimal all-around setting, IMHO.

All I do is race. I don't bash, other than driving around the yard to test and tune. If I drop my truck from two feet, it bottoms hard. However, I can get big air at most tracks with no problem, as most racing jumps have a down-sloped landing area some where after the jump. If you hit the landing area, then the shock is minimal. As most tracks are bumpy, I keep my suspension somewhat soft, so that the arms will absorb the bumps instead of the whole truck bouncing all over. Additionally, with full droop available from the stock arms, I can take a little bigger hit before I bottom out. I still bottom out some, but if it's too much, then I typically just go up on the shock oil a little.

The RPM arms won't allow as much droop as factory arms, even with tabs bent.

[slaf]

Thanks Chevy :)

I want a race setup cause I'll build a track in my backyard.

Do you think I can use external shock limiter (fuel tubing) to prevent bottoming ?

[budlightnmyhand]

I have my ride height high as crap. I am using 50 wt oil with the red and copper springs on each wheel along with some fuel tubing to help with bottoming out. If its bottoming out to badly i would go with the heavier springs with a little heavier oil. If you get the oil too thick in the shock i think it might start blowing shock caps.

I think i'm giong to build something to stop the snow from going all over my electrocis and transmission here shortly. Maybe something out of some scrap lexan or something. Can't wait to drive this in the snow.

Mike

[slaf]

I'll give my settings a second chance but I'll check my shocks for any leaks and install external shock limiters.

I ran my MGT in snow the other day, I was thinking about using Glad Press'n seal, don't know if you have this in US.

[Cotharyus]

I would stay away from using fuel tubing to limit shock travel. Let the truck bottom out. My truck bottoms out lightly if dropped from one foot, two feet it hits hard, but like chevy said, I race - and I don't really have any issues. My truck is one of the fastest at the track (maybe *the* fastest, with the exception of one Revo) through the rythem section.

[slaf]

You convinced me :) I'll keep this setup and maybe I'll put back my stock a-arms. And what do you think about my 8 red springs and 50wt oil ? I guess it depends of the track for this point...

[MikeWz]

Slaf - That set-up should work fine (red springs, that is). I run 50wt oil and a Red/Gold combo and it works for me. However, just because it works for me doesn't mean it'll work for somebody else. You gotta fiddle around and see what works best for your driving style/track

[slaf]

Thanks for your help everybody ! If you want you can add my contact to your msn, this should be nice to chat "live" about our trucks !

[fuzzy2133]

one last thing slaf - you could also move where the lower part of shocks mount on the a-arms out to the other 2 holes. this will give the shocks more strength against the arms. where your shocks are now the lower a-arm can compress the shocks easily, as the lower part of the shocks are moved out the a-arm will need more force to compress the shocks. this however will not allow for absorbing smaller bumps since more force will be needed.

[Chevy-SS]

Forgot to mention, I also run the red/gold spring combo (seems to be the favorite choice here), with 35w to 55w oil, depending on track. Plus, I run 40 series bowties mostly, although sometimes standard bowties.

slaf, good luck building a track. I wish I had a big enough yard, but, in all honesty, the real fun of these trucks is to go race them against other guys. Once that racing bug hits you, it's hard to run alone. ;-)

[slaf]

I ran Proline 40 before but they were bending, so I move to Maxx size velocity wheels.

There is only a BMX track (4 ft wide for 8 trucks !) for racing here, and racers are more demolition derby racers than RC driver.

[MORTER MAN]

Ok so mike already told me I need stiffer springs to race but what else do I need to do to my mGT to get her asphalt race ready?

[Chevy-SS]

Ok so mike already told me I need stiffer springs to race but what else do I need to do to my mGT to get her asphalt race ready?
Wow, yer gonna race an MGT on asphalt? That's interesting. If it's a smooth surface, then I'd set it up like a sedan as much as possible. Get it as absolutely low as you can go. I'd also set the suspension much stiffer than for a dirt track, maybe even use some sway bars. Some street tread tires (fairly smooth) would also be needed. Pay attention to camber (-1 is good) and toe (rear in 2 or 3, front even or out a little). Plus I would really check over every ball end and bearing to make sure everything is tight and smooth.

If there are jumps built into the asphalt then you'd need to keep the ride height fairly normal. Bottoming out on the asphalt would be tough on the truck.

Is this just a local parking lot race with a bunch of guys, or is it at a real track? I've never seen MT racing on asphalt.

DISCLAIMER: I am definitely no expert at MT asphalt racing, as I have never done it, so these are just my opinions based on years of racing RC and real cars. ;)

[Cotharyus]

I'd look at 60-80 wt oil and copper springs for asphalt racing, no preload. Beyond that chevy's advice looks good.

[ambryatim]

Racing on asphalt would be cool but why not set up a track with both dirt and asphalt??? Like in Supermoto racing....now that would be soooo cool, and really test your driving skills. Just my 2 cents...I think it would catch on pretty quick with every one running MT's and stadium trucks. What do you guys think???

[slaf]

If you change your tires for onroad tires, you'll need to change your spur/clutch bell too....

I'll go with > 70wt shock oil, the stiffest shock spring (copper), internal shock limiters to keep ride height as low as possible. Maybe a four shock setup and lightweight your truck as mush as you can.

Last thing.....Post a pic of your onroad MGT ! :)

[fuzzy2133]

whouldn't that be similar to a blue groove track? (just joking) it sounds cool, I myself like to run in the loosest and bumpyest (<--new word [lol]) dirt I can find.

[ambryatim]

Blue groove??? I've heard of it only by name, what is it???

[MikeWz]

Blue groove is another name for asphalt. :rolleyes:

Actually, it's just like, super packed clay/dirt mix that is pretty smooth and all. It's not real off-road. Kinda annoying

[ambryatim]

Sounds like it would eat up tires pretty quick. Mike do you race, or bash more???
Me I bash because not many outdoor tracks around, unless a city park could be considered a track. LOL. Chasing ducks with my MGT!!!!

[MikeWz]

As of right now, I haven't raced my MGT, but I've got 5 years of racing experience in other classes, so I've had my fair share (I've definitly been running nitro for twice that time). I bash my MGT pretty hardcore. I've been seriously thinking about racing it, but then I decided to get an MP777 to cover that. Still thinking about racing the MGT anyway. I dunno. If I set the MGT up for racing then that takes away from some of the bashing strength..and I've got the MP777 to cover it. But, racing is a lot of fun, and that'd just be one extra truck to race. I dunno...we'll see what happens (also not sure if I have the $$$ to race both).

[slaf]

I just got a Fantom natural finish tuned pipe for my MGT.

Any comment on this tuned pipe ?

[MikeWz]

Amazing.... :cool:

[fuzzy2133]

If you do not like it you can mail it to me. :D

[Cotharyus]

slaf - did you get the single chamber or two chamber pipe? Either way, I can't imagine it being wrong, but I've got a fantom two chamber, and I wouldn't trade for anything.

[slaf]

This is the FAN20025 (Natural finish) tuned pipe for the Monster GT....25$ on EBay :)

I just finished to part out a MGT yesterday....The more I work on this truck, the more I like it....

Coth -> If you want me to weight some parts it's time for it :)

[MikeWz]

That's really weird, on Fantom's site I can't find FR20025, and on Stormerhobbies they have it listed, and it just says Fantom works pipe Natural Finish. Even if you click on it, it doesn't tell if you if it's dual or single chamber....weird.

[slaf]

Hope I'll get the pipe before we get more snow....Don't want to wait until next spring before using my MGT. Maybe I should install it on my snowblower !!!! :)

Do you know, just by looking, how to know if the pipe is single or dual chamber ?

[fuzzy2133]

shine a light into the opening and see if there is a baffle inside, that has been what I have done a few times.

[slaf]

Hi guys...

I have installed 4 bearings for my bellcrank, they replace the white plastic bushing. I also replaced the front skid plate but I noticed that the color was not exactly the same. The new color is a little bit darker.Did anyone else notice any color change ?

[slaf]

I'm also seriously thinking go back and reinstall stock a-arms....

[bob333]

Why? What do have on right now?

[bob333]

Why? :confused: What do have on right now? :confused:

[bob333]

sorry double post

[slaf]

I have RPM A-arms but I think they change suspension geometry. I'll install stock ones on a side of the truck to compare...

[Chevy-SS]

slaf, yeah, you'll notice a handling difference with the stock a-arms. If you do one side for a test, how about taking a pic with arms hanging (put chassis on block of wood or something) so we can see droop?

Thanks

[slaf]

No problem Chevy-SS I'll take a picture !!!

What do you mean by a handling difference ?? Do you think my truck will handle best with stock a-arms ?

[slaf]

Do you have any other RC ???

I have a MGT, RC10GT, RC10T and a RC18T (ordered, should be here soon !)....

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - I really want to know what you think of the rc18t when you get it - that's potentially my next rc. I don't currently have any other rc's, but in the past I've had quite a few, including but not limited to a frog, bear foot, xx-4, TB-01, T4, turbo ultima, NMT, and RS4-3.

[slaf]

Coth -> Sure I'll tell you how the truck is... I owned a Mini-T before but the RC18T ahs nothing to compare with it...

I'll not race the RC18T, in fact it's just for playing around the house with my 15 months boy....He's already a RC addict....:) Don't know why ? :) :) :)

But for now, I have to sell some RC stuff to pay for all my toys :D

[fuzzy2133]

No problem Chevy-SS I'll take a picture !!!

What do you mean by a handling difference ?? Do you think my truck will handle best with stock a-arms ?

yea, the rpm a-arms do not allow for full down travel. When the truck jumps on landing a small amout of the shock length will not get used. That is why I cut the tabs off my skid plated and now I have "super down travel."

[slaf]

I have bent tabs on my old skid plates to have more droop. But I installed new skid plates this morning and I did not bent the tabs. I think that the stock a-arms have the same droop as rpm with bent tabs...

[fuzzy2133]

yep, you're right slaf it is the same.

[slaf]

Thanks but I also think that shock hole on the lower arm are not at the good place or maybe the a-arm is a little bit shorter that the stock ones...

[MikeWz]

Right now I'm only running the MGT but sometime shortly after X-mas I'll have myself a nice MP777. In the past I've had a Nitro Hawk, Nitro Rustler, T-maxx and a XXX-NT. I've driven a few more, but that dun matter

[slaf]

Coth -> Few post ago you told me to not use fule tubings as external limiters for my shocks, that it was best to let the truck bottoms out.... Why ?

[Cotharyus]

Think about how strong you chasis is - if you let the truck bottom out, it takes the shock of any really hard hits. If you *don't* let the truck bottom out, then the load and stress of the impact is transfered fully to the wheels and tires, axles, carriers, arms, and shocks. Your chasis is stronger than all of these.

[slaf]

ah OK :) I just wanted to save my skid plates :)

[MikeWz]

Bottoming out is a normal thing. It's happened on every truck I've run to date. Don't think about it too much, unless you're racing and the bouncing becomes a problem. The skid plates are there for a reason...hence SKID plate ;)

[fuzzy2133]

if the scratches really bother you take the blue coloring off and with a little rubbing compound you got silver skid plates that will not show scratches so bad.

[MikeWz]

Coth - Where can you get aluninum diff cases for the truck? That'd be awesome.

[slaf]

GPM makes one

http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=30609

[Cotharyus]

Good link slaf, I was going to have to send him to RCX shops, shipping from hongkong is murder!

[slaf]

Maybe check on EBay...There is some good stuff sometime....

[bob333]

Well actually there always is good stuff on EBAY but it is just hard to find

[MikeWz]

Okay, so I took my pullstarter off to change the one-way bearing...yeah, not so much. The whole spring came out and stuff, and I can't get it in right. Anybody else done this before? I've done it with a Traxxas P/S before but that's easier because the spring is on the top...but this is on the bottom. Not really a fan of that. I also lost the shaft for the drill start because the last time I used that was over a year ago. It's probably someplace in the garage, but that's going to be impossible to find. Anybody know how to re-do the P/S...or want to donate a drill start shaft? :o

[slaf]

Here's the pic...

Droop comparaison...Winner -> Stock a-arms

[slaf]

But look at the shock mounting hole difference....

[Chevy-SS]

slaf - that's a cool comparison, but I don't think it's quite accurate. You have the shock connected on the RPM side, but not on the stock side. For the pic to truly represent the facts, I think both sides should be completely hooked up, with all parts attached in the correct positions. Then let it hang and see where the chips (err, arms) fall.

[slaf]

Yes Chevy, I realized after I posted the picture....It was 5h30am when I did the A-arm switch :( I'll try to take another one with shock installed !

But the shock mounting hole on the stock lower a-arm is much "inner" than the RPM...

[Chevy-SS]

If you are referring to the second pic which shows the left side arms (RPM arm behind stock arm), I think the stock arm shock mounting holes are "inner" only because you have the RPM arm hanging offset to the outside. Again, I think for us to see an accurate comparison, both sides (one stock arms, one RPM arms) should be completely hooked up, with all parts attached in the proper positions.

Thank you for doing this.

[slaf]

On the second pic, I installed the hingepin in the rpm a-arm and the extra lenght of the hingepin was in the first hole of the stock a-arm to make sure that both a-arms was starting at the same place. I'm 100% sure for the monting holes :)

[budlightnmyhand]

I painted a body for my truck the other day, you can check out my thread here http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=183546 for pics.

Mike

[Cotharyus]

Nice pain job. My last body was the same one, but I dare say your paintjob looks better - of course that was the first time I'd used an airbrush too. I have plans for the next one, but it remains to be seen how it comes out.

[slaf]

Do you still all running stock air filter ??

[Cotharyus]

I run the stock air filter, yes. It's as good a filter as I've seen anywhere, and seems to breath just fine.

[Wreck]

here is a couple pics of my new body

http://tinypic.com/omdq9

http://tinypic.com/omdrl

http://tinypic.com/omdt3

[Cotharyus]

Nice - is that the Crowd Pleazer 2?

[slaf]

Whar's that chassis ?

[Wreck]

yup thats the Crowd Pleazer 2.0..its the biggest body I have painted. I cant wait to see how it looks on the track. The body is almost too big, but it fits pretty good..oh and the chassis is Hardcore Racing.

[Chevy-SS]

Pretty MGT. Nice paint. Did you mask out the flames by hand? If so, how?

Hardcore chassis is great, high bling factor, but I can't imagine it being any more durable than the stock chassis. Now put a .28 in that thing and you'll be rockin'!

BTW, why did you have to go and wizz in the fuel tank? :eek:

[Cotharyus]

Ok - now I'm going to quiz you about the body. What possition do you have your body posts in, how close to the roll bar does the top of the body set, and how much clearance do you have between the body and your air filter? I like the looks of the CP, but I don't know if it's got enough clearance for my setup.

[slaf]

Coth -> Since you are running an OS .21 head clearance should not be a problem.

I told to few guys here that I know someone racing his MGT with an OS .21 and they don't beleive me....They have all Wasped MGT... I just told them...You better have a .21 and control your truck than a 2.7HP engine going everywhere on the track....Specially behind me :)

[Wreck]

Chevy:.....I was having troubles deciding what type of paint scheme to do..I only had three colors..black, metalic blue and silver..well after about a day of trying to decide I just masked off the whole body and did the flame free hand and on the fly..I had to cut the flames out with an x-acto knife..the body looks great from about 5 feet away, but when you get close to it you can see the splatters from the rattle cans..next time its air brush and liquid mask....as for the chassis I really like how it looks..I know the chassis is the last thing to ge upraded on the MGT...I was gonna get the Wasp .28, but it was out of stock so I bought the chassis instead...so far not a single prob out of it..and thats one of the first items people notice on it...oh and yeah the fuel tank....yeah it does look like I whizzed in it..you not the first to say that..for some reason the byrons looks like that..

Coth:.... I can run my finger between the boddy and roll cage and also I about an inch all the way around the air filter (sides and top)..also I have my body mounted in the second holes from the top..with the old body that was as low as I could go..I could probably do away with the rocking mounts and use the posts directly...I might even drop it to first hole from the top without any problems

[bob333]

Do you think the roll cage is a good investment?

[Cotharyus]

slaf - I was asking about the clearance around the air filter because I have my body mounted much lower, the roll bar removed because it would be poking through the body. Tell those guys that don't believe you that the OS RG is probly one of the smoothest engines I've ever run. It's got more than enough power with the weight I've taken off of the truck, and I'm working on a set of Ti CVD's for the truck - that should help even more.

Wreck - let me know how much clearance you have if you drop the body all the way down on top of the roll bar.

[slaf]

Coth, I know your are watching your truck weight. I was parting out a MGT and I decided to weight some parts yesterday...Maybe useless information but I tought that it would be nice to know the weight of some parts that we can replace with aluminum or hopups.

Tire + Wheel = 344g
Engine + Air filter + mount = 510g
Front bumper = 86g
Rear bumper = 82g
Shock = 26g
Header + pipe + spring = 81g
Lower a-arm = 34g
Upper a-arm = 30g
CVA = 34g
Front drive shaft = 30g
Rear drive shaft = 25g
Drive shaft cup = 12g
Short turnbuckle + ends = 13g
Long turnbuckle + ends = 14g
Tranny = 510g
Diff = 201g
A-Arms mount = 13g
Short hinge pin = 6g
Long hinge pin = 7g
Chassis + electronic box + mud guard + rollbar = 681g
Stock receiver = 24g
Stock steering servo = 49g
Stock throttle or reverse servo = 47g
Pivot ball = 7g
Knuckle = 13g

I weight my truck with hump pack installed and no fuel -> 4825g (10.6 pounds)

[fuzzy2133]

so the pivot ball and knuckle are just single? not all 4 knuckles or all 8 pivot balls. Is the shock dry or holding fluid?

that is a great list slaf!

[bob333]

Were you parting out a dead gt or a good one?

[slaf]

so the pivot ball and knuckle are just single? not all 4 knuckles or all 8 pivot balls. Is the shock dry or holding fluid?

that is a great list slaf!

Weight is for a single part, 1 pivot ou 1 knuckle.

The shock is a stock shock with fluid and blue spring and 1 spacer. Exactly as when you received your MGT.

[budlightnmyhand]

Slaf,
I just noticed you said you were parting out an MGT, do you sell the parts on ebay? I think you live in canada and i see someone selling parts for the MGT on ebay all the time. Just wondering if that was you.

Mike

[slaf]

If you mean gabrc, I have to say yes it's me. But I don't want to mix this forum and my other activities. I'm auto-financing my hobby by parting out some MGT and RC10GT. It helps me to stay in touch with many rc guys !

[budlightnmyhand]

I look at your auctions all the time. Shipping just seems like it would take to long to get here. Wish ya lived in the U.S. :) Good luck though with your auctions.

Mike

[slaf]

Shipping to USA depends of where you are in USA. Shipping to north east cities is faster than south west cities cause I'm located in the eastern part of Canada. For exemple, shipping to CA is about 8-10 business days.

[slaf]

COTH -> If you still interessted about RC18T, I'll receive 2 of those little sweet trucks this week. You can prepare your questions :)

I stored my MGT for winter....Too cold to run outside !

[bob333]

Are those things fun to drive?

[Cotharyus]

slaf - I'm still interested in the rc18t - very much so. I also, however, have this sick idea of getting a TXT-1 and making a rock crawler out of it, since I do like to do something challenging when I'm not racing, and my MGT doesn't make much of a crawler.

[slaf]

Are those things fun to drive?

More than fun to drive :)

[slaf]

slaf - I'm still interested in the rc18t - very much so. I also, however, have this sick idea of getting a TXT-1 and making a rock crawler out of it, since I do like to do something challenging when I'm not racing, and my MGT doesn't make much of a crawler.

I want to convert my RC18T into a Monster truck more than a racing stadium...

[ambryatim]

Hey guys what is a good way to set the toe and camber on the MGT. I have tried using a Camber gauge from RPM but I cant seem to get it right, and when I try to adjust the camber it seems that I have to adjust it in and my pillow balls get to tight before I reach my set point...and also my wheels seem a little loose when I back off the camber adjustment to prevent it from squeeking and being to tight...any help would be great...

Tim

[fuzzy2133]

this will cost some money however I have found it is worth it. Go get some t-maxx rims (just rims 2 at the least) to use when you are making adjustments and keep them with the camber guage. have you tried to adjust the bottom pillow ball? once you get the camber set remember the toe needs to be redone as well.

[ambryatim]

OK here is what I have been doing to adjust my camber. I take my gauge and set it to my desired position, then I set it on a level surface ( kitchen table) then I push down and load the suspension several times and let it rise to a resting positon, I loosen my lower pillow ball and tighten the upper one but it only goes so far before it tightens up to a point to where I binds and the lower ball is still loose...do I need to unscrew the lower ball a little to compensate??? As for the toe, what is the distance between the tie-rod ends on the front and rear of your truck???? That would give me a good starting point...I bought my truck used thats why I am attempting to adjust steering...I also installed Ti Turnbuckles....

[fuzzy2133]

OK, one at a time, how much camber do you want to get? You have the right idea.

[ambryatim]

Oh, 1 degree up front and about 2 in the rear

[fuzzy2133]

hey the pillow ball hex is 2.5mm and the cap to hold the pillow ball in is 5mm. you may just be loosening or tighting the cap over the ball. the cap will cause the suspention to bind if it is too tight. you may want to use a flash light so you can see the hex in the pillow ball. does this make sense?

[ambryatim]

yes it makes perfect sense I did not know I had to remove the Cap..DUH!!!! I thought The cap is what I had to adjust. Thanks. I'll try to adjust it the right way. Now for the toe I want about 1 degree in the front and about 2 in the rear. What do you have on your MGT as far as toe goes????

[fuzzy2133]

the cap can stay in, the 2.5mm allen should fit through the outer cap, you may have to hold the suspention down (arms level) to key it in.

I measured using the inner most part of the turn buckle plastic ends
I run with about:
1 degree toe out in the front (84mm)
1 degree toe in in the rear (97mm)

[ambryatim]

hey fuzzy thanks for the info and I will give these adjustments tomorrow and I will let you know how it works for me....What wieght of diff lube are you using if any??? right now I have 60k in the front and rear. I am thinking of running 300k in the rear and 60k up front to help lock in the rear...I dont race but might take it up if I can find a track localy, right know I just bash...And You???

[fuzzy2133]

I pretty much just bash since most of the tracks near by are too small to race on, in the diff's I run 10k front and rear.

[ambryatim]

So does your MGT pull wheelies???? And are you running the .21 or a diffrent engine.
Me all stock except RPM arms, Ti turnbuckles, New Era roll cage, Integy MSR4 Shocks, 945 Hitech steering servo and stainless screw set. I would like to get an SH .28 engine...they claim 3.25bhp!!!!!!!! Wwwwweeeeeee talk about some power.

[fuzzy2133]

wheelies no, stock engine that I am going to play around with porting on for a bit. I am going to put the works racing clutch on and my perry pump so I have a few control measures in place. hoping that it will help show any performance gains.

[ambryatim]

perry pump????

[slaf]

My MGT doesn't pull wheelies and I don't wanna do wheelies neighter. I run stock engine. It has a good powerband and hold his settings as well as OS does. Like few others guys here, I lightweighted my truck to have a better pound/hp ratio which mean better acceleration.

For my next engine.....Mach 26 or XTM 247 Pro....Maybe Wasp 26.

PS: Nice to see some new nick !!

[slaf]

If you have read RCCA, in the tips section. R. Saxton give us a good tips to improve steering...

Replace grease in the rear diff with diff oil from 5000 to 10000. We can also replace grease in the front diff with 1000 oil diff.

[ambryatim]

Slaf....what ar the setting on your HS (High speed) and LS (Low Speed) needles????
I know all engines a diffrent on how they will perform but mine seems a little slow on the top end.... My settings area as follows HS 6 turns out, LS 2 1/5 turns out it runs around 250 on a 60 degree day (F) but still a little slow...

[fuzzy2133]

perry pump????

the perry pump is a fuel pump that works off of pulses in the engine this will give me even fuel flow from idle to WOT. it is not needed for any real reason, I just want to be positive there will be no lack of fuel problems.

[slaf]

Slaf....what ar the setting on your HS (High speed) and LS (Low Speed) needles????
I know all engines a diffrent on how they will perform but mine seems a little slow on the top end.... My settings area as follows HS 6 turns out, LS 2 1/5 turns out it runs around 250 on a 60 degree day (F) but still a little slow...

I can't tell my exact settings but when I got the truck I didn't change anything and I just started it and let it ran for the 1st tank and then I leaned it a little bit at every tank until temp was around 265. You can check this link (http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/setup/racersetups/2004/MGT.saxton.hemetnitrochal.2004s.pdf) but it's the same setting as yours.

Carb settings depend of temperature, humidity, sea level, fuel, air filter, tuned pipe....

What do you mean by slow...?

[ambryatim]

Well it seems to top out ok, but sounds like should have a little more throttle left, also when I let off of the throttle and apply full brake it stays idled up high, sometimes to the point to where it will cause the truck to roll a little and it has a sputtering sound almost like it is cutting out. But it does not stumble when you give it full throttle just puffs a white cloud of smoke and takes off.

[slaf]

I'm not a carb expert maybe other are better than I but did you try to lean the HS a little bit ? about 1/8 turn ??? Keep an eye on your temp !

[bob333]

ya if you dont have a temp gun get one!

[ambryatim]

I have a temp gun....but I also have seen some fuel coming out around the flywheel or could be the base of the carb where the pinch bolt is. I need to inspect it closer but I read some where that it is normal for some fuel to come out around the bearing behind the flywheel while the truck is idling...is this true???? And can I use silicone around the base of the carb if it is leaking????

[slaf]

Fuel coming out between flywheel and crankshaft bearing is normal depending of how much fuel is coming out :)

How old is your engine ? Is there alot of fuel coming of the tuned pipe ?

[Cotharyus]

ambryatim - you have a problem a lot of people have with a big block. You have the lsn too lean, and the hsn too rich. Start your engine, and let it warm up, then richen the lsn up until it starts to sound rich, then lean out the top end some and drive it. Temp it, richen up the bottom, lean out the top - keep this up until you get the top closer to 3 turns. I can't speculate as to what the lsn should be set at, because my stock engine is long dead from one too many races tuned just a little over the edge.

[ambryatim]

slaf....actually there is I can let the truck idle until it gets warm enough to blip the throttle and when I move the truck there is a puddle underneath it.... I figure about a 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls...
Coth...thanks I'll give it try...

[ambryatim]

Coth....on the HSN you say closer to 3 turns....is that 3 turns from my currnet settings or is that 3 turns out from fully closed????

[Cotharyus]

3 turns out from fully closed. The real giveaway here is you talking about the engine staying idled up high when you get on the brake. Also, does your temp come down significantly when you stop running the truck around and let it idle? It should. With what you're saying it's doing, I'm betting you almost have to keep it moving to keep it cool once it's warmed up.

[budlightnmyhand]

Mine has fuel coming out near the crankshaft seal. Its not alot but enough to notice cause the dirt and ground up leaves in my yard stick to it. No big deal, once i sealed up my motor ( twice) its running great. I do not have to touch any of the needles.

mike

[MikeWz]

Temp guns are actually pretty unnecessary (I personally am actually against using them, but I suppose I can see where they're useful). You need to learn how to tune for performance/sound/exhuast smoke. Those are the three key factors for tuning. First off, you're HSN is way rich. I'm pretty sure I'm running mine at about 2-3/4 from closed. 6 is like...rediculously rich. I'm not sure what the stock settings are but I can't remember even breakin in any engine with those settings (most were like 3-1/2 from closed). Are you sure you're not counting ever 180* as 1 full turn? You should be about 3 from closed, depending on the season and your particular engine
Also, your LSN is DEFINITLY too lean. Like coth said, the biggest sign is that your engine is staying up higher when you brake. That is also what's causing your engine to run so hot. Try richening up like 1/8th turn at a time. That should bring in more fresh fuel charge when you get down to lower RPMs, which in turn will help cool your engine.

As for tuning for perofrmance/sound/exhaust:
You can tell when your engine is not running the way it should be. If it's bogging down anywhere in the power band, chances are the corresponding needle is too rich (if it bogs @ lowspeeds -> LSN. If it bogs @ high speeds -> HSN) chances are you're too rich. If it's jumping real quick off the line, then trying to die the LSN is too lean (you can also tell when it stays at high RPMs for a sec or two when you brake). If it makes a high pitch whine and almost sounds like it's straining then your HSN is too lean. You'll be able to see the performance of the truck when everything is running right. You should also see an ample amount of exhaust coming out through all areas of the RPM band (most exhaust is blue colored, it depends on the fuel you're running).

This takes time to develop, but you'll get it. Just take your time

[slaf]

Coth -> I just got my Fantom pipe today. I was looking at your truck pics, few page before. I noticed that you installed the with the stinger on the side instead of under the truck, Why ? And why did you cut your header ? How much distance between the header and the pipe ? I think I'll cut the header too cause the pipe is touching the battery box...

Now going back to my RC18T :)

[Cotharyus]

I think my biggest reason for mounting the stinger out the side was so that nothing *under* the truck (which is where I try to keep the ground!) could hang the stinger.

I cut my header because I knew that the header was made for the associated pipe, which you probly noticed is much shorter than the Fantom pipe. I won't get into the physics of the matter, but shorter pipes often use longer headers, and longer pipes shorter headers. I cut the header a little bit after running it stock withe the pipe spaced futher away from the header and with the pipe pushed way back against it, and noticing that it seemed to work better pushed back. When I cut it a little bit, and found it still worked best pushed all the way back, I cut it a little more. At that point there seemed to be a sweet tone to the high end, and the whole rpm band was very smooth with the pipe just far enough away from the header than nothing touched. So that's where everything is.

[ambryatim]

Fuel coming out between flywheel and crankshaft bearing is normal depending of how much fuel is coming out :)

How old is your engine ? Is there alot of fuel coming of the tuned pipe ?


Slaf...I bought my truck used and the guy said he had about a gallon of fuel thru it......And I was also wondering what it means when it dumps fuel out of the exhaust?????

Any one know what a Perry Pump is???? :confused:

[MikeWz]

Amybryatin = Fuel coming from your tuned pipe means that you're running rich...quite rich (on the top). The intake and exhaust ports are open at the same time, so there's probably a fair amount of unspent fuel going right out the exhaust port...which means it's going to be sitting in your pipe.

[fuzzy2133]

a perry pump is a fuel pump for RC engines. your truck will not need one, I am going to be messing around with it to see what changes in performance.

[slaf]

Slaf...I bought my truck used and the guy said he had about a gallon of fuel thru it......And I was also wondering what it means when it dumps fuel out of the exhaust?????

Any one know what a Perry Pump is???? :confused:

You should have not fuel coming out of your tuned pipe but the stinger must be "greasy" and have oil deposit but not liquid fuel.

[slaf]

a perry pump is a fuel pump for RC engines. your truck will not need one, I am going to be messing around with it to see what changes in performance.

Is this an external fuel pump ?? Any picture ?

[fuzzy2133]

Yes it is external.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDG59&P=ML

[ambryatim]

Fuzzy.... so this pump eleminates the need for the pressure tube on the exhaust that goes back to the fuel tank,correct?? so do you have to plug the hole in your pipe or can you leave it attached and everything be ok???

[fuzzy2133]

the fitting on the pipe should be pluged off so that dirt does not get in the exhaust system. leaving it open may cause the engine to run lean. the next thing to over come is that the tank needs to be open so that negative pressure does not develope. I have seen one guy run a line from the air filter assembly to the tank with a one way check valve in line. very creative idea, the tank will get filtered air and if the truck flipped the check valve would not let the fuel get to the carb and flood the engine.

[slaf]

Fuzzy -> Did you see the comment on tower site ??? This pump should NOT be used on an engine that is equipped with an air-bleed type of carb

Is this pump electric ???


What does it mean ? Just curious !

[fuzzy2133]

yea I saw it when I baught the pump about 6 months ago. "air-bleed type carb" I think it is talking about a single needle carb. I originaly baught the pump for my savage when it had the HPI .21. I ran it for a good amount of time with out any trouble before I got a new engine and several others from another forum are running them on their Stock MGT's. it also goes on to say:
"This pump may be used, without modification, with an engine equipped with a low-speed needle valve (like Super Tigre engines)."

when I was seting it up the first time, it would flood the engine like you couldn't believe. Once I got the flow comming out of the pump turned down and engine retuned it was way sweet.

it is not electric, the pump works off of the pulses in the engines crank case so driling and taping a hole is needed to mount a pressure fitting on the case.

If any one knows what a air-bleed carb is please share.

[fuzzy2133]

I found my answer in a net serach. A air bleed carb is a carb that meeters air to controll how rich or lean the engine runs.

[ambryatim]

Hey guys I took my MGT out eairler to try some of the pointers you all gave. I got it tuned-up, better than what it was, still needs some fine tuning. I no longer have fuel pouring out of my exhaust, but I did let my friend drive it for a little bit and he smashed into a parked cars left front wheel with the left front wheel of my truck and I glanced at it and did notice that my shock cap had popped off, after I was driving it again I noticed that it turned sharper left than right....upon closer inspection I noticed that he had bent the upper control arm mount and of course the hinge-pin.
Good news...he is going to pay for.....what a nice guy..

Thanks for the tuning info everyone......I am sure I will need your advice in the future.
Ok right now is a good time to ask....what do you think of the Lunsford Ti hinge-pins, are they worth the extra cash??? I have RPM arms all around.

Thanks
Tim

[MikeWz]

Tim - Lunsford hinge-pins and turnbuckles are really great. They're definitly much stronger and they're much lighter too. Worth the extra cash :D

[ambryatim]

I just saw something really cool at tower hobbies web site......http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGZL9&P=Z
has anyone tried this yet????

MIP claims that it will enhance the bottom end and help make the overall powerband more constant. Sounds cool, I might have to get it and find out.

[ambryatim]

OBW thanks Mike, I think I will buy a set and Install them since I have to do the front upper a-arm mount anyway

Tim

[slaf]

I think my biggest reason for mounting the stinger out the side was so that nothing *under* the truck (which is where I try to keep the ground!) could hang the stinger.

I cut my header because I knew that the header was made for the associated pipe, which you probly noticed is much shorter than the Fantom pipe. I won't get into the physics of the matter, but shorter pipes often use longer headers, and longer pipes shorter headers. I cut the header a little bit after running it stock withe the pipe spaced futher away from the header and with the pipe pushed way back against it, and noticing that it seemed to work better pushed back. When I cut it a little bit, and found it still worked best pushed all the way back, I cut it a little more. At that point there seemed to be a sweet tone to the high end, and the whole rpm band was very smooth with the pipe just far enough away from the header than nothing touched. So that's where everything is.

Is your Fantom pipe louder than the stock one ?

I know that distance between header and pipe changes RPM or Torque but I can't never remember if more or less distance increases RPM or torque !

[fuzzy2133]

shorter exhaust length gives more RPM. Longer is more torque. the 2 chamber fantom pipe I use is a little quiter but not by much.

[MikeWz]

ambryatim - To quote Rocknbil on boost bottles "It's like a colostomy bag for R/Cs". They're pretty useless. Some people swear by them. However, if you take a look at what all the NATS/Worlds drivers are using, you won't see one. They dont' do anything.

Slaf - The Fantom pipe isn't really louder than the stock pipe...it just sounds.....different? It's hard to explain. They sound awesome though. They do give a performance boost. I personally am running a single chamber, but a lot of people like the dual chamber. I don't race right now, so I dont' need the smooth power delivery. Fantom pipes have a good balance of all performance gains that can be found from a pipe. You'll get a decent boost in either low-mid or mid-high (if you get a single or dual chamber pipe...respectively), your run times will increase, and the sound is awesome. They look really cool too.

[Cotharyus]

slaf - I would actually say my fantom pipe is quieter than the stock pipe was. But that's just me.

[ambryatim]

What do you all think about the hot bodies pipe????
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDVK7&P=ML
I know some guys that have used it and they say its good for the price, the only mod they had to do was cut 3/8" off of the header because of the length. Have any of you used them????

[Toycar]

The HP pipe is good for the money. I run it with savage 21bb engine that I've done some crude mods to. You'll need to a dynamite tail pipe because the outlet is about 10mm diam. You can change the outlet direction so the exhaust outlet is 90 degrees and is above the swingarms to save the tailpipe. Go for a motorsaver filter too it makes quite a diffference over the stock airfilter.

[TheBirdman]

Hey guys! Am looking to get a new RC monster trucka nd the MGT is at the top of my list along with the Maxx because of all the options and the LST and Genesis and thr Savage. I was wondering if there are alot of good alluminum upgrades available? I have not seen very many like there are for the LST and the Maxx and Revo? I would like to get this truck but would like to do somehting like the Maxx alluminum Integy conversion? My main problem with the MGT is the chasis? I would like a really nice alluminum chassis where I wuld not have that ugly plastic on the sides? Anyway let me know, and post some hot tricked out MGT's here so i can get hyped about a MGT more! That way maybe I can be leaned more towards one truck? I have seen alot of LST's already tricked out, and Maxx's tricked out buvery VERY few MGT's? I mean as new as the LST there is already a conversion alluminum Integy kit for it? Also i wanted to ask if the LST shocks would fit the MGT like they do the Savage? Let me know./

[Saboteur]

I'm hoping to get my MGT before it snows, but unfortunately it's too late. May get several mixed showers this week and I won't be able to get the MT in probably 2 weeks. I'm guessing its better to just get it when I go on vacation from college (starts the 16th) and order from tower since I get the discount and can do the xpress shipping or whatever. LHS settled for $410, but I guess I'd rather go with tower. Spent enough supporting the lhs for a while so now it's time to use Tower. 8th scale bashing was fun while it lasted, but it's big truckin time. Need to tackle tree roots, rocks, more curbs, etc. I'd honestly be happy with a nice MGT and my R40. That's really it. Unfortunately I bought other rides that I wanted to experience and my taste is gone for them, there for they will be sold. Anyone recommend breaking it in during spring or will I be able to do the break-in, in the cold w/snow (not driving on the snow though).

[toyman64]

I'm hoping to get my MGT before it snows, but unfortunately it's too late. May get several mixed showers this week and I won't be able to get the MT in probably 2 weeks. I'm guessing its better to just get it when I go on vacation from college (starts the 16th) and order from tower since I get the discount and can do the xpress shipping or whatever. LHS settled for $410, but I guess I'd rather go with tower. Spent enough supporting the lhs for a while so now it's time to use Tower. 8th scale bashing was fun while it lasted, but it's big truckin time. Need to tackle tree roots, rocks, more curbs, etc. I'd honestly be happy with a nice MGT and my R40. That's really it. Unfortunately I bought other rides that I wanted to experience and my taste is gone for them, there for they will be sold. Anyone recommend breaking it in during spring or will I be able to do the break-in, in the cold w/snow (not driving on the snow though).
You can break it in in the winter time no prob. just use a temp gun & don't go over 280. in the cold you'll probably not get to that temp anyway. I ran mine at my uncles house i michigan today with a outside temp of 40 degs with a motor temp of 240 stock no problems. ran it up & down his 40ft hill with a little jump up near the top of it. one time landed on the back wheels wrong did about 25 or 30 cartwheels, totoly cool, nothin' broke :D . maybe cause I had all the spare parts I needed just in case:confused:

[ambryatim]

Hey guys! Am looking to get a new RC monster trucka nd the MGT is at the top of my list along with the Maxx because of all the options and the LST and Genesis and thr Savage. I was wondering if there are alot of good alluminum upgrades available? I have not seen very many like there are for the LST and the Maxx and Revo? I would like to get this truck but would like to do somehting like the Maxx alluminum Integy conversion? My main problem with the MGT is the chasis? I would like a really nice alluminum chassis where I wuld not have that ugly plastic on the sides? Anyway let me know, and post some hot tricked out MGT's here so i can get hyped about a MGT more! That way maybe I can be leaned more towards one truck? I have seen alot of LST's already tricked out, and Maxx's tricked out buvery VERY few MGT's? I mean as new as the LST there is already a conversion alluminum Integy kit for it? Also i wanted to ask if the LST shocks would fit the MGT like they do the Savage? Let me know./


Birdman....there are a lot of hop-ups out there for the MGT you just have to look and find them....There are enough aluminum parts out there to replace every piece of plastic on the MGT with aluminum....as for the chassis Hardcore Racing makes a real nice one out of Ti not aluminum http://racinghardcore.com/ and they also makes some other pieces too.
Here are some pics of MGT's :) http://www.ultimaterc.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=22&pos=113
I think you will be very happy with the MGT if you decided to get one...They are very durable and they are also easy to wrench on and modify...for the price of an LST you could buy an MGT and put alot of aftermarket pieces on it and still have one of the best trucks out there and most durable....at present time I dont think there is an Inetgy Conversion, but they do make some parts for the MGT. But as far as your line-up of possible trucks go, this would be my decision. 1) MGT, 2) Savage, 3) LST.....Are you going to be racing any or just bashing?????
Here are a couple of links to where you can buy an MGT at a very good price
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//p584.html
http://www.allstarhobbies.com/product.php?productid=16660&cat=276&page=1
Hope this helps Birdman and good luck :D

Tim

[MikeWz]

Here's a list of places with some hop-ups that you can check out:

http://www.neweramodels.com/prod62_Associated_monster_gt_truck.htm?session_id= ngbqunjwsuvdiovfklufonxvtyudakib Just scroll down. You've got everything on this page.

www.racinghardcore.com

https://securehost59.hrwebservices.net/~rcsolu/products/products.php?CID=3

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0097p just look through the list, you'll see a bunch of Factory Team options

Pictures
http://www.ultimaterc.com/gallery/index.php?cat=11&theme=monstergt

That should hold you over

[TheBirdman]

Thanks alot guys for all the info! I really really appreicate it! Right now I am deciding on 3 of the trucks. The Savage, MGT, and the LST. Now the Savage just because I have heard its a real basher, and you can add the LST shocks to it! I am going to be using the truck for mostly bashing but want something to race with also? The LST I just think is soooooo awesome looking and already has alot of cool INtegy conversions and whatnot, and is also big! And BIG is what i want. Thats why the LST and MGT are at the top right now. The Svage is a close second because its, well good used new prices and really have heard alot of good about it!
Now the MGT seems to be a great truck but I have some questions? I noticed that in the Protofrom adds that it does not ention that the bodies and wheels/rims will fit the MGT? I only see a couple of bodies that are for the MGT and not any of the rims/tires? I was wondering if I can put a Maxx or Savage size body on the MGT? Same with the wheels and tires? I like the BowTie 40's and would want them and the Dirt Dawgs? But would Maxx size roms and tires fit the MGT? Let me kow and same with the bodies? I would like a Land Cruiser body or even a nice Dodge Ram body! Let me know guys. Actaully I guess I would have the same prob with the LST? Its a big truck and even bigger then the MGT I think? I guess not may bodies for that either? Sme goes for wheels and tires? Can the LST use the same size Maxx tires/rims and bodies? I also really out of them all, think the Genesis is her bADDEST truck out there as far as looks go! I mean it is mean looking, though I dont see ANY options available for it and i have heard equally alot of bad things about it? Its about 50% good and equal bad? Well let me know. Thanks

[slaf]

..I was wondering if I can put a Maxx or Savage size body on the MGT? T-Maxx bodies will fit on a MGT but you'll need to do some modification. T-Maxx and Savage bodies are a little bit smaller than MGT.

Same with the wheels and tires? I like the BowTie 40's and would want them and the Dirt Dawgs? Savage and T-Maxx wheels fit MGT no problem there. Stay away from Proline 40 Series wheels. MGT is a little bit too heavy for those wheels, they will bend.

[MikeWz]

All maxx/savage sized rims/tires WILL fit on the MGT....ALL of them. You can also fit the bodies on the MGT but they look a little funny because they are a bit smaller. Pro-line has a few of them out now, they've actually made like 2-3 of them recently, and I'm sure we'll see more now that the LST is out too.

[Saboteur]

A friend of mine is thinking of an MGT or a Revo for horsing around and stuff. It's a tough call for both of us. He likes both and did work on the 2.5 engine before with no hassle. I'm going with the MGT since its cheaper. Slower yeah, but it's still cool. The Revo is said to be a "race" truck, but we don't care. Just gonna bash either one he gets.

[fuzzy2133]

the MGT is very easy to work on when something goes wrong, very nice choice. I still have my concerns about the revo's whole shock system. I can just see those links bending, then hitting the suspention arms and binding up.

[MikeWz]

Sab - If he's just going to bash it's not worth getting the Revo. The engines can be a pain...some of them are good and some of them are bad, it's kinda weird. But there can be tuning issues with them. If not they're awesome. Really powerful. On top of that, the revo is a pain to work on. A few guys were saying it took a significant amount of time just to fix those rod-ends (which apparently are the weak spot on that truck, though they do make aluminum ones). The MGT is REALLY easy to work on, that's the biggest advantage. It also handles really well, but the stock springs are a little too soft, you're going to want to get stiffer ones. The engine is also really reliable. It may not be a powerhouse but it doesn't lack power, and it holds a tune really well and starts really easy

[RDucky02]

Has anyone put anything on their MGT that they are completly blow away by? My trucks are pretty well done but I havent posted in like 3 months or something. Anything new hit market for this truck that just blows peoples mind?

Also what do you think of the crowd pleazer body for the MGT? Is it a lightweight race body?

[MikeWz]

I think the crowd pleazer is a pretty damn secsi body actually. I'm probably going to be racing my MGT but even if I wasn't that's what I'd put on there. It's not any more lightweight, infact it may actually be a bit heavier because it's thicker lexan, but it's certainly much stronger and there's probably much less drag 'casue it's all curvy and stuff. Looking to pick one up soon.

[Saboteur]

Do I need new engine mounts if I were to put in a new .21 or other engine in general in the MGT? I hear the TT mounts are "funny" and don't work with all engines. Thinking maybe a Ofna/picco .26 may be a nice engine to put in there when I burn up the stock engine. I've seen many people have bought a new chassis so that they can use an inline exhaust setup like other RE .21s.

[fuzzy2133]

I have put the siro .27 and the Ofna/picco .26 using the stock mounts no prob. the stock mount has been proven to be brittle in some cases... mainly when crashing though.

[Cotharyus]

I've also wondered about the weight of the stock mount - how does it compare to some of the billet mounts...anyone? As far as fit, it works fine for an OS 21 RG.

[Cotharyus]

Ok - I know I haven't talked about shocks in a while, but here we go again. Those of you interested in my four shock setup, take note. The heavy duty springs (not associated, but made for the MGT, 8.7lb rate as close as I can measure) and 90 weight oil seem to produce very stable results. However, the 90wt oil seems to abuse the E-clips that hold the pistons onto the shock shaft. So I'm working on something to keep 90wt style damping under heavy compression, but take a little stress off the E-clips at the same time. I'm open to suggestions on this, so feel free to throw things around.

As a side note, I've found that the fuel tubing I was using to limit uptravel on the shocks was coming appart in the shocks, leaving the handling very inconsistant. I've started using extra/old pistons under the operating piston as spacers. So far, they're working very well.

[fuzzy2133]

didn't you look into some buggy shocks or something?

[Saboteur]

Hey guys, is the TT engine on the MGT the same engine used on the Thunder Tiger Mirage Vspec since both are from the same comp and both .21s? I hear the truck only does about 30-35mph, but I'm just interested in its torque out of the box. What's the steering servo speeds?

[slaf]

Coth -> Did you check the Thunder tiger S3 buggy piston ?? There are some balls in the piston to have faster shock extension.

Here's a link to the manual -> http://www.acehobby.com/acehobby/download/manual/6230EB4S3manual.pdf

Here's a link to the parts list -> http://www.acehobby.com/acehobby/download/manual/6230EB4S3catalog.pdf

[Cotharyus]

fuzzy - I haven't looked at buggy shocks - I don't think they make any long enough for a monster truck - or did you have something else in mind?

Slaf - I looked at that, but I'm not sure how it would help? The biggest problem I'm having is that the E clips on the top of the pistons are being bent and coming off due to the force of the piston moving through the heavy oil at such high speeds. I need about the same amount of damping have with the 90wt oil, but I either need a better way to keep the stock pistons *on* the shock shafts, or I need to find a way to maintain damping while taking some presure off of the E-clips that hold the piston on. Some things I've considered include increasing the size of the holes in the pistons, adding a set of holes in the pistons, using a lighter shock oil with pistons that have fewer holes....man, I need a suspension expert ;)

[Cotharyus]

Saboteur - The stock engine does pretty well, really. I changed the tires to pro-line bowties on my truck, and dropped to a 49 tooth spur gear and went up to a 16 tooth clutch bell. The truck was faster than stock, and the TT engine still pulled good and hard, hard enough to get me around the track in a form that won several races. I thought the stock engine did so well, that when I replaced it after most of a season of racing, I put an OS .21 RG on the truck, and I've been very happy with that. It seems to have slightly better bottom end than the TT, and screams on the top end, especially with the Fantom pipe.

[slaf]

Coth -> I told you about S3 shocks cause they offer diffrent damping rate. More the shock compress more damping you have. I'm not 100% sure. There are some balls between the 2 pistons that let the shock compress and extend at different rate. That's what I read. Maybe the piston will fit in your MGT shocks.

90WT is very heavy oil :(

[fuzzy2133]

fuzzy - I haven't looked at buggy shocks - I don't think they make any long enough for a monster truck - or did you have something else in mind?

I know some of the buggy shocks use nylocks to hold the piston on the shock shaft and like you said they may not be long enough for the MGT. RPM makes that 2 stage shock piston setup however I do not know if it will fit the MGT shocks. I have them on a T-maxx and the shocks can extend after being compressed pretty fast, athough I do not know if that could keep the e-clips from bending.

RPM Shock Parts For AE (http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/assoc/shocks.htm)

My other thought is if you know someone with a metal lathe then you could always make your own MGT shafts that could use nylocks.

[Saboteur]

Anyone think the OS .21RG is a nice drop it for the MGT or should I try like the Ofna/Picco .26? My friend runs one in his Kyosho Nitro USA1 with RB pipe. Gonna give him a run for his money.

[Saboteur]

Also, anyone tried using non pull start engines in the car and used a starter box? I heard I needed an airplane starter, but I don't want to spend all that money just to get my engine started. Guess I'll just go with the Ofna/Picco .26. Too bad. I really wanted to stick my RB S5 in there :(.

[MikeWz]

The RG is a nice engine. Talk to Coth about that because he's running one right now. Hasn't really had anything bad to say about it yet, so I'm assuming he likes it. Here's a link to Fantom's engines...the .27 is damn nice, but just like all engines over .21 it's got a significant loss of midrange power. Their .21 is pretty awesome, but the P/S is outta stock right now :(

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=cust&pn=FAN&man=Fantom%20Racing%20Products

[ambryatim]

Has anyone seen or heard any reviews on the SH .28 engine????? Or do you know of anyone running that piticular engine????

[Cotharyus]

About the RG - this engine is without a doubt in my mind the most unbeatable bang for the buck you can buy as a drop in replacement. I'll say it again - I race my truck against .26+ powered savages, .21 and .18 powered maxxes and even a revo or two, and I've *never* lost a race just because I didn't have enough power. Now, yes, there have been times I *might* have finished better with a little more power, but I think if I wanted more power I'd probly go from 20% to 30% before I'd buy a bigger engine than the RG. Of course, any discussion about engine performance should be accompanied by fuel information, so for the record, yes, I'm running White Lightning 20%.

[Saboteur]

Sounds really good. I guess I wanted to be different and try an engine other than the OS .21RG which my boss has in his Kyosho Nitro USA1 w/rb pipe and I wanted to get the edge on him. No track racing really, but just horsing around, flat out onroad speed and speed on flat terrain, etc. I did see some vids of MTs with a hyper .21 (black heatsink 3 port engine) and they are really quick. Maybe for the price though I should try the RG, but I don't know. :confused:

[slaf]

What's good about the RG, first it's a OS. Second the engine is light and his head is small so you can lower your body and it's lowered CG at the same time.

I'll keep my AE .21 as long as it runs well. At this time I have no need to upgrade. Sure having a .28 sounds good but it's not a must. Maybe one day I'll find a good deal on a .26 ou .28 engine and I'll buy it !

I'm still wondering why OS doesn't make any .26 or .28 :(

[Cotharyus]

I suspect that part of the reason that OS isn't selling a .26 or .28 engine is because they have a higher standard than most companies. look at .18's - they *did* help design the engine that tamiya puts on the tnx, but they didn't actually make it. Now compare thier .18 to everyone elses - it was worth the wait. I suspect that when (not if, but when) we see a high displacement bigblock from OS it won't be plauged by the lack of midrange that other engines in that catagory seem to have, because remember, OS is a performance company, and all that power won't do you any good on the track if you can't control it coming out of a corner.

[slaf]

Choosing an engine is difficult, there are so many manufacturers....Picco, Ofna, Peak, Dynamite, Wasp, SH, XTM, RB, etc......

I know SH makes alot of engines for others companies but I don't know which.

You're right Coth, OS makes very good engines. Their new .18 is almost as powerfull then my stock .21. Their powerband is perfect for racing, no on/off feeling...

[MikeWz]

Choosing an engine can be difficult yes, and I find it even more difficult if I ask people for opinions. I'd rather go somplace (like a track, if available) and scope it out first. People, especially here, are very biased towards the company they're using so you get that a lot. If I can't decide I'll just go with one based on my personal knowledge the components and ports and stuff. It's a big help to know what you're looking for in the engine. Low-end...mid/top-end? Slide or rotary carb...pull start or non...price range. That kinda stuff helps a lot

[Saboteur]

Yeah I think the RG will be a nice fit. I'd just want something with a little more top and maybe if possible, overall more HP and RPM. Gonna hit up on some wide open fields and stuff like that. Also I can't let my boss get away with the MT race. I beat him with the buggy race (HB light. RB S5 vs Hyper 7pbs w/ton upgrades WS7 II), got him owned for sure when he gets to nitro sedan, and gonna own him in MT. :cool:

[slaf]

Everybody at my LHS is talking about the Mach 26 (LST engine), they saw a LST running and right after that, they all want Mach 26 for their Savage :( If I have to change my engine my choice will be an engine with constant powerband that keep settings and run smooth, no matter if it's a .21, .25, .26 or .28. At this moment my choice will be XTM 247 Pro, but I don't know about powerband. When I said that to the folks at the hobby shop they look at me land said "XTM what ???". They don't know this engine or manufacturer... All this to say that noone in my town know XTM and they are all dreaming about Mach 26 :( Too sad !

I tried to explain that we can't rate an engine just by looking at HPs. I even told them that Coth was racing with an OS .21 (sport engine) and they laughted :( (Sorry Coth !)

Anyway I stopped to go to this hobby shop and to their (demolition derby) BMX track.

Now my plans are to built my own track, still chatting with you (even if my english is bad)....And sometime go to the BMX track just to do some laps with them...

[Cotharyus]

slaf - those guys can laugh all they want to. There are two Mach 26 powered savages at my track that I run circles around with my RG powered .21 - I'm consistantly 1-2 laps ahead of them, and they are both reasonable drivers. In fact, the only trucks I've run up against that I've consistantly had trouble with are 1 tmaxx (this has a lot to do with the driver being extrodinary) and a Revo - the driver of which is no slouch. Oh, the T-Maxx started this past season box stock - except for bowties - and it finished that way except for an upgrade to the .18 CV-R - I'm looking forward to next season, as I may be onto something for getting around the corners better, which is where the T-maxx and revo both beat me.

[mattmall]

I am trying to decide on which truck to buy. Savage 25 or the Monster GT, How do they compare to one another, which is faster? I want someting to run around my backyard and to veat my nieghbors 2.5 maxx? I know the GT has a 21. in it and the savage has a 25. what are the pors and cons?

[slaf]

I owned a Savage and I switched to MGT. I have burnt as much fuel in my MGT than my Savage. On the Savage I had to upgrade my diffs, on the MGT nothing broke, nothing bent, still running as strong as the first day :)

MGT Pro and cons:
+ Tough truck
+ Really easy to work on
+ CVA everywhere no dogbone
+ Steering servo with a little bit more torque
+ Radio with more functions and better quality
+ Reverse (if you like it)
+ More a racer than Savage
+ Dual start system (Pullstart and shaft start)
+ Still running upside down
++ It's an Associated :)
- Less popular than Savage
- TMaxx and Savage bodies too smal
= .21 engine (seems small for some, seems perfect for other)

Savage Pro and cons:
+ Tough truck
- Radio box difficult to access
- TVP chassis makes difficult to work on
- Engine leans when fuel tank is above half
+ Realiable .25 engine
+ Rotostart system
- Need battery pack + charger for Rotostart
+ Maxx bodies fit
- Dogbones everywhere
- Weak diff, need to be upgraded to 4 spiders + aluminum diff case

[mattmall]

Thanks for the reply Slaf. How big is the monster gt? Will there be more bodies available? I like the way the monster gt looks. IS it easy to install a bigger motor once the stocker is poop? I know associate has made first class cars for many years. how fast do you think it is compared to the 2.5 t maxx?

[slaf]

Stock MGT speed is around 32MPH, Savage a little bit more and T-Maxx around 40MPH But don't let top speed fool you...Top speed doesn't make a better truck !

Yes Proline has some beautifull MGT bodies

Yes It's easy to install bigger engine

[Saboteur]

Well I'm going to bag an MGT for sure as I found out a few guys in my Mechanical class are into the hobby. One owns a Tmaxx 2.5 and nitro stampede. Time to really bust them. Therefore, gonna get the MGT, and see what other nice engine to stick in there afterwards. Ofna/Picco .26 is on Tower for $160 and it seems great :)

[slaf]

Maybe I can send my resumé to Associated to be a representative :)


Saboteur -> Yes I think that Ofna/Pico .26 is a good engine...It's on my list. By the way, cool nick :)

[Saboteur]

Thnx. My friend also decided to get an MGT also since overall he heard it was a better truck. With the little nitty picks some people tend to poke at the Savage makes it seems like an ok truck to him. For the price though the SS aint bad at all though. Maybe a guy in my Manufacturing class will like to get a Savage since everyone else pretty much own Tmaxx's.

[MikeWz]

Sabs - Stay away from the Ofna/Picco stuff. They're pretty bad, actually. They don't hold a tune for nothing. That seems to be the general consensus of the Wasp engines too, but I've never run one of those so I can't really say for sure.

The OS RG-X is really nice, as is the Fantom FR-21/27

[mattmall]

I had a trinity picco 15 about 3 years ago when the intial t-maxx came out . I also had an OS 15, the trinity Picco was a hard motor to beat. ALways ran great never had any problems. Os burnt up in about 3 weeks. Trinity/Picco would wheelie in second.

[fuzzy2133]

The wasp engine I got has been nothing but problems for me. It ran great for a bit then something happened in the carb. :confused: it has been like 3 months and I am just going to swap it with the Ofna/picco carb and see if things change.

[Cotharyus]

mattmail - the trinity picco (I'm geussing it was the XP 15) was a *completely* different engine - comparing the ofna/picco 26 to the xp 15 is like comparing cow sh*t to ice cream. And the OS you had was probly a CV - at my track the CV is known as "the disposable engine" - it's a *good* engine, the piston and sleeves just seem to go out fast in them. No one seems to have any problems with any of the other OS engines.

[slaf]

OS CV engines are ABN not ABC sleeve will wear faster

[Saboteur]

The only Ofna/Picco engine I recall being bad is the .21maxx engine. That several LHS guys I talked to didn't like. The Ofna/Picco comp .21 and .26 was a more preferable choice though.

[JamminJay]

If any of you have your origional MGT shocks & blue springs and wanna let them go for a cheap price please let me know.... Email me: JamminJay1722@aol.com thanx

[MikeWz]

I've been hearing about the Ofna/picco .26 and the Wasp .26-.28 (mostly the .28) that they're not really holding a tune too well. I believe the big problem is they go quite lean after half a tank. The MGT isn't so big that this should happen, and it doesn't happen on the stock TT engine...so I'm not really sure.

[Saboteur]

AHHHhh. Man is there any nice .21 w/ PS that can go in the MGT with more torque and speed compared to the stock TT.21 and the OS .21 RG?? :confused: . BTW, I'm sure that MGT has to do 35mph with some pretty nice acceleration, especially if it has a two speed. Kinda hard to believe it only does 30-32mph. Maybe its the gearing. Anyway, I'm gonna run the heck outta it once I get it. :)

[MikeWz]

Fantom FR-21...my personal favorite .21 ;) . Can't front on the OS though, it's a nice engine