Team Associated Monster GT V2.0

[fuzzy2133]

MikeWz - have you ran the fantom .21 personaly? if you have what are your thoughts on the performance?

[MikeWz]

I personally run the .21 but I've run their .12s and I've seen their .21s run...and I've also read up around forums on them. There's nothing I would change about them. They've got enough bottom-end power where you can get-up and go but still put all of the power to the ground. They really shine in the mid-top end power. They really jump out of the turns and, just when you think they're going to stop revving up, they keep going.
They're also really reliable. Kinda like OS reliability and tunability. The only thing that's annoying is the break-in period. They can be really annoying for the first 8 tanks or so...but I can suffer through that for the performance they give. They're real smooth but they haul

[fuzzy2133]

Thanks Mike I was thinking about getting the .21 and I was not positive if it would be a buy or not. Now I might just get one in spring.

[Chevy-SS]

Hey all,

I put together a collection of Monster GT tips and tricks, plus set-up for racing. It may help some people out, especially those just getting started with their MGT's. The site is at: http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/home.htm

Hope it helps. :D

Thanks

[slaf]

Hey all,

I put together a collection of Monster GT tips and tricks, plus set-up for racing. It may help some people out, especially those just getting started with their MGT's. The site is at: http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/home.htm

Hope it helps. :D

Thanks

Very nice site Chevy-SS :)

[Saboteur]

Change of plans. Picco .26 it is :). Great site Chevy

[slaf]

I just seen some videos with Savage with big block (Ofna .26, Wasp .26 and Wasp .28) They are all doing wheelies...I plan to swap my stock .21 in my MGT with one of those big HP engines but I don't want to turn my MGT into a wheelie machine. If I put few more teeth on the CB, will this reduce wheelies ? I want to peg throttle and the front end wtill on the track !

[jphebert]

Thats a very informative site you developed Chevy-SS! Tons of info for everyone, newbe to racer. Awesome site.

[Saboteur]

Slaf- Where did you see the Savage videos? I'm busy browsing for more MGT videos. Only saw one, but it was just 4 seconds and no sound.

[slaf]

Good MGT videos are rare. A french mate send me a link to his Savage video with a .26. Wheelie machine.

How can I prevent my MGT to do wheelies with a 2.5+ HP engine ?

[Saboteur]

More teeth on a pinion can help out since you have a more powerful powerplant that can pull a taller gear ratio.

[RDucky02]

i run the picco .26 with an 18 tooth bell and the stock spur. wheelies whens its warmed up if i gun it but otherwise its pretty controlled. great engine choice. reliable, easy to start, and great performance.

[slaf]

RDucky -> Did you change something to your rear suspension to prevent wheelies ?

[MikeWz]

Here's a decent vidja

http://www.monstergt.com/videos.html

I haven't really seen too many good vids of the MGT in action...heck, I haven't seen any real good vids of anything in action really...most stuff is just baby stuff (except for Slap ma Fro, but I'm not really into that, it doesn't prove anything)

[Saboteur]

Vid was pretty cool. Now I can actually see the MGT going almost full speed. Seems pretty nice. Too bad it wasn't just bashing around in a field or so with rocks, grass, etc. Good enough though. Time to dig up more. :)

[slaf]

You can check this site -> http://wildhobbies.com/news/default.asp?cmd=view&articleid=1119

At the bottom of the page, there is a MGT video.

[Monsterbrad]

Well I thought after thinking about things I would keep my Revo...
But Bill at Speed Zone talked me into one of these trucks...
He says that they are just about the toughest truck ever...
I am hoping so because the Revo is Awesome reliability..
Any of you guys gone up against a Revo at all..
Head to head?????
I think by what I am reading here I made the right decision..
I have not seen any major problems with this truck other than power.
Tranny and drive train are great
and everything else seems to be great..
I am going to bash this truck only I have a race truck thats suited for racing only.
Revo is to slow
LST breaks drive shafts too much
SUT is for sale

[MikeWz]

laff @ you.
The Monster GT is awesome. As you said, the only thing it's lacking is power. And there's an easy solution to that. A new pipe. For one reason or another AE puts in a 1/10th scale pipe...which is stupid. My personal preferance is the Fantom pipe and I'm pretty sure Cotharyus will agree with me (btw, you can ask him about his stories of REVO racing :p )
This truck is totally awesome and I've had 0 durability problems. In over a years worth of hardcore bashing (about 2 gallons, unfortunately) I've only broken three parts:
Front lower a-arm, front bumper, front body mount.
I'd say that's pretty good for what I put it through.

Sabs - You can check out some cool monster gt pics here:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/cessnaskyhawk123/album?.dir=f29b&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/cessnaskyhawk123/my_photos

That's me baby in action :)

[slaf]

If I loosen my slipper or richen low speed needle, this will prevent wheelie but I heard bad comments about MGT slipper clutch. Did you hear bad things about the MGT slipper too ?

[Saboteur]

Looks cool Mike. My friend already got his Stadium Maxx and Bill is gonna get a Tmaxx and run his Nitro USA-1 also. Still thinking... :confused:

[fuzzy2133]

If I loosen my slipper or richen low speed needle, this will prevent wheelie but I heard bad comments about MGT slipper clutch. Did you hear bad things about the MGT slipper too ?

I have heard complaints of people melting them from trying to use it as a traction control device. They did not under stand it was ment to save the drivetrain from damage due to on-power landings. other than that I have had no troubble with it.

[RDucky02]

Sab - I run integy alum threaded shocks. non reservior. i run trinity blue and black springs, once of each at each corner.

[Monsterbrad]

Hey guys is there any one thing that I should change before running this truck?
Just curious
I have also heard the the stock suspension works well but the reservoir's are not functional.
Let me know about any simple mods other than the pipe I should do.
Thanks

[MikeWz]

Fuzzy - Really? That's pretty interesting. I mean, I don't use it that way on the MGT because I don't really care for the slipper myself, but on any other truck I've drive the slipper works as both a 'traction control device' and to stop you from blowing stuff duing on power landings. Especially on 1/10th STs and stuff, you need to keep that pretty loose to keep rear wheel traction, that's namely what it's used for. Part of getting a good set-up is getting a good slipper set-up.

Sabs - Come on man, there shouldn't even be a choice there. MGT > T-maxx. The T is less expensive for a reason :p

Monsterbrad - There's nothing else really 'necessary' persay. There are some things that are nice.
1.) New pipe (now THAT is necessary)
2.) FOC. Helps in accel, top-end AND turning
3.) GPM Aluminum diff braces
4.) New springs (somewhat necessary. The stock suspension is crazy soft)
5.) Threadlock ALL screws in the drive train, especially in the drive cups by the tranny)

[Monsterbrad]

Well here in PA its dead winter time and it SUCKS!!!!!!
Any way I am going to have lots of time to mess around with it before i even break it in.
I will go over everything and see what happens.
WHAt pipe should I use guys???

[slaf]

MonsterBrad -> It's winter here...I'd like to suggest you the Fantom pipe but since there is 3 ft of snow here, I didn't have the chance to try it !

[ambryatim]

Hey everyone I just got a CMB .21 LS(long stroke) EVO 2 engine for my MGT. Does any one know much about these engines????? The reason I got is because a friend of mine works with a guy who is a distributor for CMB Marine engines and they modified one to work for my truck free of charge.....Power you ask 2.8HP@40,000 RPM!!!!!!
Can you say screamer. Check it out http://www.hobbysupplies.com.au/CMB%20Marine%20Engines.htm

[Cotharyus]

Monsterbrad - you asked about going head to head with a Revo. I've done it, and the Revo (with a decent driver) was impossible for the MGT to catch on my track with the setup I was running at the time. I have high hopes for a new setup of mine in terms of being able to keep up, but the Revo is hard to beat on the track. However - if you're bashing, I wouldn't bother with a Revo. I've seen them break fairly easily, and they are a royal pain the rear to work on.

Sorry for any slow replies to posts yall, but I'm out of town, and access is ...well, it happens when I can get to it, but spending time with family take precedence.

[Monsterbrad]

I sold the REVO
I can't wait to give this truck a try stock and see how it is!

[RDucky02]

I'm running a ribbed hpi pipe. I had to make my own pipe stay and I run it with the side exhuast manifold. I get good power from the engine all around. I like the set up, it works well. About 4 months ago I picked up the hardcore racing chassis. looks pretty cool but its actually not any lighter.... did not know that when i bought it.

[Monsterbrad]

Mine just arrived about 20 mins ago.
I am impressed to far.
Started to change the radio gear around and I see getting the steering servo out is kinda a pain.
Oh well I am going to get back at it.
Truck looks great though!

[slaf]

MonsterBrad -> I'll sugegst you to make just one modifcation at the time and check what's improved and what's not. This will let you know your truck. You can take your stock steering servo and use it as throttle/brake servo if your new servo is not high torque.

Congrats for your new truck :)

[Monsterbrad]

Well I put the 645 in for steering and I am not sure what I am going to do about the throttle.
Does anybody know what the torque is for the stock steering servo?
Also what are some sugestions for the servo saver ???
I put the stocker on the 645 went on good had to shim the stock servo saver a little to keep it from binding on the servo case.
Looks good other than the steering is not that sharp like my LST is.
But this truck is going to be strickly a fun truck.
Basher all the way no racing here!
Steering MODS??????
let see some or hear about what you guys have done!

[slaf]

Stock steering servo is 111 oz/in

A good servo saver for the MGT is this one -> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXFVA8&P=V

[Toycar]

I thought I'd try my hand at modifying my what I thought was a trashed Wasp.26. I ran it with a smaller one-way bearing that let out a load of copper filing in the engine scoring the piston and pitted the piston top and head buton. The front main bearing had so much play the engine didn't seal and prevented it from running. The rear main bearing has noticeable play. I replaced the front and reused the rear main bearing.

I smoothed the entrance to the boost port and did some minor dremeling to the transfer ports. Added ~.08" height and crowning the exhaust port. Openned up the intake hole in the crank 1.5mm and added turbo. knife edged the crank. 9mm venturi.

Today, I ran at our offroad track it with an MC8 it's a completely different engine. It now has top end with all the bottom end it had before with throttle response. I have it on the MGT and it can clear jumps ~1.5 as much distance as before. Can't wait to get a fresh piston and sleeve in it. My wasp.26 is a screamer now. It sounds completley different. I use to run it with 17/52 gearing to utililize it's bottom end powerband because it made no power in upper revs. I ran it with 16/52 to see if it would wind up and make power. It winds up and is still pulling at the end of the straightaway. I ran 40 series Bowtie tires that are now 50% worn. I only put 4 tanks through it.

[Monsterbrad]

Anybody try a Mach 26 in this truck yet????
I will have to see about the stock steering servo saver.
When you turn the wheels manually it binds on direction cause the servo throw is too far.
But when the truck is on the steering looks good with the 645 in it!
I hope this is enough.
Oh well I'll just have to drive it and see!!

[MikeWz]

Monsterbrad - The 645 may not be enough. I know I had one in an ST that I was racing and it seemed like it wasn't really anything more than the stock one. It'd kinda get 'bound' in turns....it just kinda got stuck when trying to make some higher speed turns.

[Chevy-SS]

OK, this is a little technical. As far as I can tell, there is no Ackerman effect, or adjustment, on the MGT.

A brief desc. of Ackerman - In a tight turn, the inside wheel is steering at a steeper angle than the outside wheel, and this is what is called the "Ackerman effect". Ackerman is the difference in turn radius between the front tires and is created by front end geometry. The Ackerman effect can help the vehicle turn better through the center of the turn. In a wide turn there is less Ackerman. A way to check Ackerman is by turning the right front 20 degrees to the left. If you have Ackerman, the left front will have turned further left (say 25 degrees total) than the right front. A RC bellcrank steering system approximates a way to copy the Ackerman effect.

I cannot see much (if any) Ackerman to the naked eye. Does anyone know if the MGT has Ackerman built in? It seems that a little more Ackerman may be better for a tighter course. My main question here is: has anyone experimented with Ackerman? I think more Ackerman might work as most RC tracks are very technical, with lots of tight turns.

I am probably gonna end up making some custom steering plates to experiment with different Ackerman settings, but before I tried to do this, I wanted to see if anyone else had done something with Ackerman, resulting in improved lap times.

Thanks

[Chevy-SS]

....................Steering MODS??????
let see some or hear about what you guys have done!
Two steering servos, dude. :D That's the mod if you want fast, solid steering. Here's a link to my page: http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/2servomod.htm

[Saboteur]

Monsterbrad - The 645 may not be enough. I know I had one in an ST that I was racing and it seemed like it wasn't really anything more than the stock one. It'd kinda get 'bound' in turns....it just kinda got stuck when trying to make some higher speed turns.


Slow transit time. ;)

[Monsterbrad]

Well sounds like i need to change that servo again.
I'll try the 645 and see how it goes I am just going to bash the truck so I don't know yet!
I do like the duall steering servo idea though
lata

[MikeWz]

You can always slap that 645 on throttle/brake. It's not the fastest servo out there, but it should be fast enough.

Chevy - either my toe-in is royaly effed...or I'm just retarded I dunno, but my truck does look like it has a bit of ackerman. I do wish it was adjustable though. Are there any MTs out there that have adjustable ackerman? I thought that was mostly on TCs

[Monsterbrad]

Lets see some pics of trucks with single servo's in them.
Also what servo do you guys think is worthy of buying to steer this truck with just one doing the job???????????

[fuzzy2133]

I use a KO PDS-2144 runs for about $115-$120, it can over power the servo saver when sitting still and there are other servos out there that can do it also.

[Keiger]

Hey all,

I put together a collection of Monster GT tips and tricks, plus set-up for racing. It may help some people out, especially those just getting started with their MGT's. The site is at: http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/home.htm

Hope it helps. :D

Thanks
Great site Chevy. Thanks for the info. Think I will be grinding/cutting out some more steering componets. Very cool.
How many races have you won with the set up and what about different shocks then the stock ones?
Was looking at the INTEGY MSR4/5

[Chevy-SS]

Great site Chevy. Thanks for the info. Think I will be grinding/cutting out some more steering componets. Very cool.
How many races have you won with the set up and what about different shocks then the stock ones?
Was looking at the INTEGY MSR4/5
Keiger, glad I was able to help and thanks for compliment. I won most of the races at my local track, plus I got the end-of-year trophy for most overall points in MT class. Honestly though, the competition there wasn't that great.

The best MT races in the New England area seem to be held at RC Madness in Enfield, Connecticut. That's where a lot of the well-known names like Slayden, Vogel and Jun show up. I have been faring OK in those events, but I am racing against guys with tricked-out truggies, or big names. Either way, I am happy to finish in the middle of the pack and end up a lap or two down to the winner. IMHO, the Monster GT just cannot compete against a well set-up truggy, but that's the "unlimited" class rule at the moment at RC Madness. I think ROAR is working up some new MT class rules, which might help standardize the competition. I'll tell ya, it's cool to watch the pros work. They pay attention to every detail.

The Integy shocks have gotten mixed reviews from a lot of folks. I would do a forum search here, and also at: http://monstergtforum.com/ I have two sets of Integy shocks and don't use 'em, other than a little light bashing. Not dissing Integy here, just saying I don't care for them.

[Cotharyus]

Well, I got back from my parents house to find several inches of a snow/ice mix on the ground here at home. So naturally the first thing I did was fire up the MGT and shred! The surface was hard enough to keep the truck on top, but loose enough to afford some traction and allow some nice glittering white roosts. Waaay too much fun. I got some more upgrades on the way compliments of some Christmas $$$ so I'll be updating and taking pictures. Maybe at some point I'll grab some video of the little troll in action.

[slaf]

You guys are lucky to run your MGT. Mine is stored until april.... I don't want to run my MGT in snow, didn,T have time to try my Fantom pipe :(

Maybe this afternoon I'll give a run to my RC10GT just to smell the nitro and hear the engine screaming....

I just bought an used HPI MT Racer for snow action....I'm waiting the postman...

[Cotharyus]

Hmm. You might have been better off to spend your money on "more parts" for the MGT so you could run it during the winter. I think you'll find the NMT fun, but certainly short on durability. At least mine was.

[slaf]

Coth -> What do you mean by "more parts" for my MGT ? :)

If I don't like NMT I'll sell it. It's not a problem. I think it will be fun to have a 4x4 nitro stadium. It's just one more nitro...!!!

[Cotharyus]

Well, I can only assume that you don't want to run the MGT in the snow because of issues with plastic parts getting brittle and breaking in the cold - a problem which I didn't have btw - if it's something else, maybe we can help you deal with that as well.

My point was - the NMT can be fun, but I suspect you will end up buying a lot of parts for it, and it's not going to be anywhere near as much fun in the snow - speaking from experience. Yes, it's a fun little truck, but it's delicate.

[Saboteur]

Time for the big decision guys. If I go with the Savage SS, I'll have $120 or so in the pocket and be safe till next payday (next friday). However, with the MGT, I'll have about $60-$70 left. I won't go any lower than $60 bucks in my pocket. I'll see how it goes and the decision will be made on Friday night.

[fuzzy2133]

Saboteur - you should be happy with what ever you choose both trucks are excellent IMO. I have both of these trucks and the only reason the savage does not get much run time is due to the stupid wasp engine.

[Saboteur]

I know. Just seems that few people have pointed out a few things on the MGT that makes it better such as the CVD, no need for diff upgrade thing, easier chassis layout, etc. I think the Sav is ugly without the body though; ugly TVP chassis..LOL. I'll keep the body on most of the time. With either one, I'll upgrade the engine. I think for the Savage though I'll be able to get a nice JR servo with high torque and I think it was .15 transit time for $40. That and the diff pin upgrade.

[Cotharyus]

Honestly, I would go with the MGT. Either one should hold up fine without and imediat needs to upgrade. My brother got to see me run my MGT on our father's farm over christmas. The last RC he saw me with was a Frog. He had also had an electric buggy, and when he saw the things I was doing with my MGT he was in awe of how tough it was. I think when I told him he could pick one up ready to run for less than $400 and run it that way for the rest of his life (he would race it - in fact he'd probly only run it about twice a month) he looked like he was about to ask "where". My point is, if you need to have some cash left in your pocket, and you can get either one stock and feel good with the amount you have left, I'd get the MGT every time. That said, they are both good trucks.

[slaf]

Coth -> I just want to keep my MGT clean with no rust. NMT is just for the fun of it, don't plan to invest alot of money on this truck.

There is no electric track here, so winter is long.....Just have my RC18T to run inside the house, in the basement.

[beachbum]

i am new to the monster gt thing. i used to have a t maxx,but can anyone tell me how to build a homemade stand for this mgt.or if anyone has any pictures that would be great.thanks!!

[Saboteur]

Coth- Still though it seems the MGT is better in some areas and I do like the way I can set up a rear exhaust manifold like onroad cars in the truck. The blue parts, better fitting, no self leaning fuel tank, etc. I think I'll get the MGT. Will see how it goes this weekend. I hope the cable modem comes friday, because I have to leave early to go to the LHS, come back, and then go to work for 12pm on Saturday.

[Monsterbrad]

Well here is my opinion!
I have had the Savage and the LST and now the MGT
I can say this about the monster GT
Way better than the Savage.
If you are looking to save money by buying the savage look again.
The first thing you will have to do to make it steer worth a darn is do some serious steering mods.
The TVP's are not that great and the engine is nothing at all to write home about.
I would say that the MGT and the LST are the best 2 trucks for all out monster trucking!

[Saboteur]

I have $480 and will see if the LHS has the truck tomorrow. If I get it, I will need the LHS guy to give it to me for $400. I need to save the $80 in my pocket. I really want the MGT badly and will definately get it. :) Even if it means waiting next week, I'll get it.

[Cotharyus]

Why not look into getting it from someplace like ultimate hobbies? If you're in the US I'm sure they can ship it to you for less than 20 bucks, last time I saw a price on the MGT there it was $379.

[Saboteur]

I know, but had my mom order a computer for me and we spent enough on it. I don't think she will be able to dish out another $400 for an MGT. I can do an MO, but I'd rather get it from the LHS incase something is wrong with it and I have to bring it back. As a last resort, I'll try getting it from Tower Hobbies.

[slaf]

I removed all RPM A-Arms on my MGT and reinstalled stock A-Arms. The suspension changed alot, I had more ground clearance, more droop. I can drop down my truck higher before he bottoms out, so this should be a good new for the truck at the track.

RPM a-arms seem to be best in some specific setup, for onroad setup or low jumps track.



I weighted all a-arms

1 stock lower a-arm -> 35g
1 stock upper a-arm -> 31g

1 RPM lower a-arm -> 40g
1 RPM upper a-arm -> 33g

By reinstalling stock a-arms I saved 28g. Now I installing titanium turnbuckles, I'll save few more grams.

[Cotharyus]

I've got a set of Ti turnbuckles on the way myself. I think I may almost have my shock setup (four shocks of course) worked out, but it remains to be seen at the track, and depends on a few more careful mods.
I'm also picking up a single GPM rear aluminum gear box for the diff, as I appear to have toasted yet another diff - actually it's just on it's way out, not completely gone. I'm also playing with the slipper trying to get that closer to right. After having seen some slippage problems with one on the first MGT I saw, I tightened mine down pretty good - only to find out that it's too tight, which may have something to do with my rear diff issues, especially given the nature of the rythem section on my track. I'll continue to play with that, and see what comes of it, and whether or not I really *need* the aluminum diff case.

[Saboteur]

I GOT THE MGT!! WOOOOO!!! For a price of $350 at the LHS! Lowest price sold anywhere....I think. Read why :

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=1644979&posted=1#post1644979

I'll post pics soon. It's HUGE!!! I think I'll sell my 8th buggy and be happy running this around. :)

[Saboteur]

OWNED!!! :D I'll install the Hitec 625MG for throttle. It's fast and has plenty of torque.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=1645040&posted=1#post1645040

[fuzzy2133]

Saboteur - I was gonna tell you that if the LHS is one you buy things from alot they should sell ya the truck with a discount. now go out and have fun just don't get too crazy and start breaking parts.

[Saboteur]

Yeah I know. I just want to go roll around few hills and the same place I normally run. It's just that I'll be havin more fun because I will hardly get stuck on anything now.
:D . No big jumps or anything, but just some curb climbin, going in reverse, climbing and doing down stairs.

[slaf]

AE reduced the MGT price in end november. My distributor gave 15-20% off on all MGT and RC10GT.

Saboteur -> Glad you like your new MGT.

Coth -> I read somewhere (I can't remeber where), someone modified the slipper. I'll try to find where I read this. Now I need to find tougher turnbuckle ends.

I learned two things with my MGT. First, don't install Proline 40 Wheels, they will bend. Second...Don't install RPM A-Arms, they too much changed suspension geometry.

[Saboteur]

Thats good to know Slaf. Anyone changed the pipe on it? I like the way it's setup and going to use my own gear (3pdfx FM, 625mg TS, hump pack, and failsafe), but since I'm gonna stay with the stock engine for quite some time, I want to get the most out of it. I wonder how this baby will run with a Jp1 pipe or RB pipe.

[Cotharyus]

Yep - the 40 series has been a no-no on anything bigger than a T-Maxx for some time - I think I've advised several people against it. I've heard people talk about breaking the stock A-arms, but I've never broken one, and never seen one broken, but it'll be worth while to pick up a set of knuckles for the MGT - I've popped two of those, but they were both on good hard hits that would have taken out half of any other R/C I've ever owned.

I've seen a few things on modding the slipper, but nothing that looked convincing.

Saboteur - I mentioned this in your other thread, and I'll say it here - check out the fantom pipes, I have a two chamber rpm pipe, and I love it. They make two or three pipes that are supposed to work on the MGT - they are a little heavier, but they may be worth the weight penalty, of course, if you're just bashing, all you really want is a tank;).

[fuzzy2133]

the fantom .21, 2 chamber pipe rocks with the stock engine and the side exhaust manifold. I have made 1 run using the werks 4 shoe clutch and it has the engine is running noticeably cooler. once this rain stops I'll be heading back out.

I have not had any troubly with the 40 series rims since I got AE's FT clamping hex's I was spinning the hex in the rim then with the FT ones it stoped. I have heard of the rims getting, uhm... deformed from a little heavy bashing.

[Cotharyus]

Yep. That deformity will slow you down on the track, and you give it a couple more good hits, and the center of the wheel around the hex will break out, never mind stripping, that wasn't what I was talking about.

[slaf]

Coth -> Did you check the "Strobe slipper"

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/scan/co=yes/fi=products/sf=prod_group/se=ST/sf=spare/se=0/op=eq/tf=category/tf=sku.html

It's for the TMaxx but some people said it works with the MGT. I'll wait before going with this "Strobe" slipper. I read that some MGT came from the factory with no pegs in the spur.

[Cotharyus]

No slaf, I hadn't seen that. Thanks for the link. I'll look into it, and see if I can find anything. Where'd you see that it works for the MGT?

[slaf]

Coth -> I just typed "mgt slipper" in google and few mouse clicks I found that site !

[Monsterbrad]

So what going on with the slipper here??????
sorry i missed something here!!!!

[Saboteur]

Coth- I checked out my MGT and the necessary screws to be threadlocked have been done already :D! I just tuned the engine according to the manual and rechecked the slipper. Everything is ready for tomorrow if it's nice out. Today was awesome, but it did get a little chilly in the afternoon sorta. The mods I did so far was:

install Hitec 625MG for throttle (stole from the buggy)
Futaba 3pdfx rx (from the buggy also)
Failsafe( again from the buggy)
Ofna 5cell hump (..the buggy is loosin every friggin thing huh?)

I'm kinda bummed they just threw on the GT pipe on there. I'll get the Re manifold and try my pipe that came with the 8th buggy since it runs really well with my RB S5. Anyone tried other brands of plugs with the TT .21? I've got RB #6s for spares. I'm gonna bore a hole in the body for refueling and attach some zipties to the fuel tank. I'm thinking about the xtra debris that will enter through the hole though.

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - cool. That defidently bears looking into.

Monsterbrad - the slipper on the MGT appears to have a problem with being set "just right" - as in it basicly doesn't exist. It's either too tight, or too loose, though I have yet to experience a "too loose" meltdown of the spur gear. We're just poking at better options for that.

Saboteur - one thing about associated - I haven't heard anyone complaining about having to threadlock any of the screws on the MGT. The pipe that's on it isn't quite a GT pipe - it's a little larger diameter, and the stinger is many times larger. It still doesn't excuse them though. As for plugs for the TT.21, I used A3's in it quite successfully with 20%. It does advance the timing a little, and you can run the truck just a little richer with the hotter plug and still get good performance out of it. Of course, I've recently considered (mind you I'm running the OS RG now) switching to A3 plugs and 30% to see if I can get a little more out of the RG - baring that I may look for a .21 with a little more power, but I don't want to sacrifice reliability either.

[slaf]

The MGT stock pipe is a little bit bigger than the RC10GT pipe. It's not the same pipe. The first thing I noticed when I saw my Fantom pipe for the first time it's her size....Bigger than the stock pipe !!! And heavier too :(

For those who like to see the diffence between RPM A-Arms and stock A-Arms here's a picture...Since a picture worth a thousand words...This will save me from searching in my french-english dictionary :) :)

[Saboteur]

OK then. I just read on someones site that it's necessary to threadlock the grub screws in the CVDS need to be threadlocked. Anyway, I'm taking care of my mom today, because she isn't feeling well so I'll have to pass the break in for tomorrow. First thing's first.

[slaf]

First batch of MGT need to be threadlocked but it seems that the second release (on market for many many many months now) doesn't need to be threadlocked...

You can threadlock them if you want, it's just can be safier...

[Saboteur]

I did 1 1/2 tanks of break in. Decided to come in since it got darker and colder out. Also, I dunno if this lady was talking to me or someone else about how loud this thing was. I agree though. Not even my 8th scale with RB engine sounded like this. I hope it won't be louder when I fully tune it right, but someone said it will. Atleast it won't have that really heavy blubber sound like did when I first tested it out...I hope. Anyone know a much quieter pipe I can install on this? I was thinking of the one that came with my HB buggy. An actually 8th scale pipe and not an RC10GT lookalike/sound alike.

[Saboteur]

NVM, I'm going to install my new pipe on the car. It is just too loud. I don't want anyone to yell at me that the thing is bothering them.

[Monsterbrad]

Has anybody tried the blue side pipe and header from associated????
I like the look of it
I was thinking about using a LST pipe and the side header from associated!

[Saboteur]

Well I tried it out and it just extends out a little more past the body. Also I need to reconfigure the pipe wire. No biggie. As long as I tone this beast down, I'll be happy.

[Saboteur]

NVM again. Original pipe is going back on.

[Monsterbrad]

I can't wait till spring so I can try this truck.
I have heard that it's loud but thats ok I like to annoy the neighbors for now.
Hey you guts that hace had this truck for a while.
What screws should I take caution on for loc tite.
I know the center shafts and cvd's but I have the brand new version of the truck
so??????

[ambryatim]

About the strobe slipper, I asked about it a while back and this is the reply that I have recieved...http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8209
I plan to install one once I get some other things taken care of first. BTW has anyone heard of the CMB .21 LS EVO-2????? I got one for christmas and don't think I will be able to start it if I install it. The reason is that it is for a buggy and you cant install a pull start onto it so I was told.....So, if anyone knows anything about these engines please help...

Thanks
Tim

[ambryatim]

Here is a shot of the inside of the engine with the backing plate removed and a couple of other things.....http://www.reidrc.com/techpic3.htm..there is no hole drilled into the end of the connecting rod pin or a little nipple on the end so you can attach a roto start or a pull start....I was told I could always change the crankshaft but I have had no luck in finding one. It has a stroke of 16.80mm and the diameter if the shaft itself is 13mm I would like to keep the long stroke (LS) for the torque because I plan on racing this spring....Oh, the power figures are 2.8hp @ 40,000 RPM's.

Thanks

[slaf]

Ambryatim -> Are you sure about your engine model ? Is this engine ?

http://www.hobbysupplies.com.au/CMB%20Engines.HTM

[Saboteur]

Guess I'm gonna get the RE manifold soon. I fear the heat off the pipe might melt the fake piggyback reseviours.

[Cotharyus]

I don't think the heat will melt the piggybacks, but then I wouldn't know, I cut mine off. As for pipes, almost anything is quieter than the stock pipe. My fantom pipe is very quiet (my .21 sounds like a .15 - blends right in with the 1/10 trucks at my track) and I run the side header - I did that to get a little more weight forward - helps keep the wheels on the ground some.

[ambryatim]

Slaf.....yes I am sure, the person who gave it to me is a distributor for CMB marine engines all he did was remove the marine cooling head and installed an air cooled head and said that it would work so I told him I would try it......CMB also makes buggy engines that are the same as the one that I have just a diffrent name for buggy applicatons. Here is a link http://www.reidrc.com/off-road.htm I installed it onto my truck just to see if it would work and I can use my stock engine mount and I will have to find a diffrent exhaust mainfold because the port on the CMB is smaller than that of the TT .21, I thought of using the rubber insert from a starter box chucked to the end of my drill to start the engine but, I really dont know yet any ideas????? I might just have to sell it and get a Werks Collari .30 http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=WRXWRXLC30Mt/167.0.264.1023.0.0.0or something like that.

[Saboteur]

I was told to not change the pipe until im done the break in. :( sux..I got 2 1 /1 tanks though. It works but its just that I gotta make a new pipe mounting, and the tip of the pipe is like 30mm from the wheel. I'll get a pic.

[Saboteur]

Here they are.

[Saboteur]

more.

[Saboteur]

Pretty much the pipe touches the plastic PBR. I guess I gotta face the music with the loud stock pipe for the rest of the break in till I can get the RE manifold and use the HB pipe.

[Cotharyus]

Dangerous things can happen when you give someone who doesn't like to spend money a 3 day weekend. I will explain myself..oh yes, I will. But not until I'm finished. And even then, it won't be an update for the faint hearted.

[slaf]

Ambryatim -> I'm not an engine specialist at all. You can contact your reseller. Maybe an Ofna pullstart or rotostart will fit. But don't let those HP numbers fool you. There are only numbers :) There are some good low price engines out there, like the Ofna/Picco 26, XTM 24.7 Pro, Mach 26, Wasp 26 or Wasp 28.....


Saboteur -> Nice to see a so clean MGT, remembering me when I got my MGT :) You should buy the side header, it looks like your tuned pipe is too long to fit correctly. Associated side headers are around 10-15$ depending if you choose the normal header or the FT blue header. There is no difference between thoses 2 headers, only color differs. I bought the FT blue one....Just to add more blue to the truck.

Coth -> Did you install your turnbuckle ? I installed mine, but I need to adjust toe-in/out and camber cause I replaced a-arms too.

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - I have the turnbuckles, and weighed them, and I have them put together, but not installed yet. I've been...working....on my truck. I figured it was high time for a teardown, and so I tore it down...and then I got to looking at ways to save a little weight...I'll just have to take some pictures when I'm done.

[Monsterbrad]

I would say that cutting the fake reservoirs off is a great idea I am going to do that.
Also lets here about some performance differences with the side header and pipe.
are there any?????

[Cotharyus]

The stock header vs. the side header alone isn't going to make much difference. The difference is in the pipe. I refuse to actually recommend anything but the fantom pipes. When I put my two chamber on, my engine temp dropped (this is a same day temp - I ran the truck, put the new pipe on and ran it again) 35 degrees without a significant drop in performance. I had been feeling like the engine was running a little rich, but I was trying not to get the engine over 240 on the track during a 5 minute heat. I was trying to keep it right below 230. That said, I began leaning the engine out, it got to 220 and was screaming - as in flying, not as in making bad noises. My .21 powered (OS RGX) MGT will keep up with any of the .25+ powered MT's on the track, and is much more controlable.

[fuzzy2133]

I am glad to hear that the same thing happend to you Coth. I thought I was doing something wrong when I put my fantom pipe on the stock TT.21 and it was spitting fuel out the stinger.

[Saboteur]

Well guys I have the .21BB to try in my MGT. I'll give it a whirl on a nice day when it doesn't rain, but will mainly try to finish the break in. Too bad my LHS doesn't have fantoms. Ah well, I'll try running another pipe anyway like my stock HB pipe.

[Cotharyus]

As far as I can tell, very few places actually carry fantom products. The only place I know of to get them is Stormer Racing. I still haven't ruled out a Fantom engine as a replacement for my OS-RG when that time comes. Of course, when I do that, I may buy several engines, and try them all, and decide which one's I like and don't like - the fantom .21 and .27 are on that list, but it hasn't gone much further than that. If OS releases a .25+ size engine, I may have to give that a try too - but again, all of my engine hunting efforts are focused on finding something that has plenty of power *and* can deliver it smoothly.

[slaf]

Hope OS will release a .26 engine soon. Hope that this engine will have a low price tag like the OS .18cvr series.

I bought my Fantom pipe on EBay, it's used but I just paid 25$.

[MikeWz]

Well, I've decided to hold onto my MGT, and just save for a while (a LONG while) and get the helicopter that way. Don't really wannt put much into the MGT unless I have to though because that'll just delay the purchase of the Heli. I also need to put at least $500 aside for this summer (probably more), and with working a job around the college schedule it's probably going to take a long while...oh well, can't let the MGT go. This truck is the big nasty

That being said, anybody have a pullstarter they want to donate ;)

[Cotharyus]

Mike - check ebay. I think I saw a brand new pull starter go for 3 bucks the other day.

I told yall I'd let you know what I was up to with my truck. Basicly I decided to tear it down and clean it really well, as well as replace a few parts I knew were getting close to needing it. While I was doing this, I started looking at some of the things that could be done to save weight. I also seriously considered buying a FT chasis. I had all but placed the order when I started to look at my stock chasis, and thought, you know, I could save myself the $90 if I just cut that chasis up....and if I ruin it, what the hell, I'm sitting here about to buy a FT chasis anyway right? Nothing ventured nothing gained. So...

http://wilderness.dyn.dhs.org/cotharyus/rc/MGT/mgt-chasis1.jpg

http://wilderness.dyn.dhs.org/cotharyus/rc/MGT/mgt-chasis2.jpg

http://wilderness.dyn.dhs.org/cotharyus/rc/MGT/mgt-chasis3.jpg

The end result is that the chasis is 1.5 ounces lighter than it start out, and I'm $90 ahead. So now I'm looking at some Ti hingpins and stuff instead....

Hey, it's not pretty, but I bet it won't break either.

[turbopower]

I wouldn't recommend titanium hinge pins as I've used them on 2 different vehicles and all they did was bend. Once they are bent they are a B$%^* to remove. They are light but a little to soft for off road RC cars.

[slaf]

Coth -> FT chassis is 1.7oz lighter than the stock chassis...I think you can drill more holes on the chassis side.

Did you check MIP CVD's and driveshafts ? Maybe there are a little bit lighter than the stock ones...

[Cotharyus]

I had a set of MIP CVD's once - I destroyed them in one race with a less powerful/lighter truck. I'll never buy anything from MIP again.

[Saboteur]

Weird how I think this person cut the manifold and used some brass or something to adheve it together to make it run on the side. Honestly I'd rather retune the engine if I have too for my .21 pipe. The GT pipe is just too loud and I have consideration for the neighbors. I don't want them to believe all my nitro's are loud and not let me drive them again.

[slaf]

I have MIP cvd's on my RC10GT, They work nicely, no problem with them. But I'll continue to use stock shaft cause I still have few new in my pitbox !

Saboteur -> Nice picture, first time I see this modification....Too keep noise level down and your neighbours happy, get the side header and try your .21 pipe. If it's still too lound, check EBay or your LHS (since he gave you great price on your MGT) and ask for a more quiet pipe.

[Cotharyus]

Turbopower, what brand of Ti hingepins did you use and on what vehicle? Lunsford has a no-bend guarantee on their products. I know Ti flexes more than steel or aluminum, but it can be very hard to bend, plus the diameter of the hingpins on these trucks is pretty large. It would take a sick hit to bend a hingpin I would think.

slaf - I may be over reacting to the MIP thing, but it just doesn't seem like a $30 set of CVD's should bend in a single 5 minute race. As for more holes/lightening things up more, I'm leaving the chasis where it's at. I did knock about .15 ounce off of each skid plate by cutting a hole in it on the area covered by the bumpers. Look at one of the HCR skid plates to get an idea what I'm talking about.

[Saboteur]

Slaf-Yes, I will definately invest in a new pipe...that or try the mod like that in the picture except use silicone J joint to connect the pipes.

[slaf]

Coth -> I think you are the point of where it's getting harder to find some trick to lightweight your MGT.... Maybe some titanium stuff...

[Saboteur]

Slaf- I also don't see many lightweight saving parts for the MGT either. Ah well, it's still cool. I'm going to do the mod in a little bit after I finish checking my email.

[slaf]

Coth -> You can change your engine for a Ofna/Picco 26, it's 47g lighter :) :) :) :)

[Cotharyus]

too funny slaf - too funny. The only two major weight saving things I have left are Ti hingepins and Ti pillowballs. Beyond that, there isn't much I can do weight wise to this truck, but hey, whatever works right? Anyhow, as well as I did at the track last year, it's not like I *need* to make any serious changes/drop a lot of weight to be successful this season, I just want to pull the edge out a little further.

[slaf]

I was kidding about the engine swap Coth :) Is your season over ? I found interessting to know what people do to be more competitive. Some drop big mill, some put their truck on the diet, some drop big $$$...That's another fun part of the hobby :)

[fuzzy2133]

you forgot about beating the person that just dumped their $savings$ on their truck just to find they still can not keep up.

[MikeWz]

Coth - I shall check ebay, thanks. The chassis looks pretty nice. Gotta find somebody (maybe check www.monstergt.com's forums) and compare the weight of yours to the weight of theirs. MIP CVDs are nice for the MGT. I'm running them in the center right now. All I had to do was dremel a groove in the middle of the pin to stop it from coming out. 4wd tends to not be as hard on CVDs as 2wd. I had them on my ST too, and I'll never ever do that again, but they're hot on the truck.

Sabs - Fantom pipe is the big nasty...that's all that needs to be said ;)

[Saboteur]

Mike-That's if I'm able to get it. For now though I did this... :)

[Saboteur]

Another

[Saboteur]

Last one.

[Saboteur]

I will run it out the bottom off the chassis though. This is just an alternate setting. The side guards are made of some TOUGH plastic. I had to use a lot of power to cut it with my wire cutter. Also I reused the pipe mounting wire to support the pipe. Just had to get a longer screw. I can't wait to run it and see how much lower it will be :)!

[turbopower]

Cotharus- I was using the pins in a Kyosho Kanai buggy. I used some off of ebay and also tried some from a local hobby store which I believe were from Lunsford. The MGT hinge pins are much thicker though so they may be more resistant to bending. On the other hand the MGT is a much heavier vehicle. If you do decide to use Titanium pins keep us updated on their performance.

[slaf]

I don't thik that the problem with the hinge pins is bending. It's more a weight problem. They are very heavy.

Saboteur -> Let me know how it sounds and if you get or lost some power

[Cotharyus]

Turbopower - how much does the Kanai buggy weigh?

Saboteur - the plastic the mudguards are made of is quite tough. It's also heavy. You can trim a lot of weight by trimming your side guards. About your pipe - if you run it out the bottom, and want to keep it that way, make sure whatever pipe you get to keep on your truck has the L-shaped preasure nipple on it, or you'll kink your hose against the body - look at it for a second, and you'll know what I mean.

[slaf]

I ordered some Zombie Maxx tires for my MGT :)

[Saboteur]

I'll try it out sometime later on. We may get more snow soon and I have an interview today at 3pm. I already gave some tugs on the PS and the noise already sounds lower :).

Coth- My pipe has that L shape. The hose isn't pressing against the body.

[turbopower]

Cotharus- My Kanai buggy weighs about 8 lbs. which is about 3 to 4 lbs lighter than a MGT.

[Cotharyus]

Turbopower - 8lbs is only about 2lbs 1oz lighter than my MGT. I think I'll give the Ti hingepins a go, with those and the Ti Pillowballs I should be able to get down to just under 10lbs.

Saboteur - I see that from the picture - what I'm saying is, make sure whatever you end up getting to *keep* on that truck has that L-shaped nipple, or you'll end up kinking your preasure line against the body when you roll the pipe over to run the exhaust out the bottom of the mud guard.

[turbopower]

Cotharus- how did you get it in the 10lb range. Did you cut the side guards up,cut off the front and rear bumpers off. I saw you drilled your stock chassis. I have FOC,removed roll bar,removed bumper ends,and i'm about 11 lbs with bow ties. Just curious as I wouldn't mind trimming some more weight off.

[Monsterbrad]

You guys and this weight thing :-)
Oh well
I hope there is not any major problems with the drive shafts there!!!!!!
I thought this truck was tough.
I am having problems with my LST eating shafts and I don't want this to happen with this truck.
I have heard that this truck is the strongest truck around other than the savage but i dont' like the savage!!!

[Cotharyus]

Turbopower - I've trimmed the mud guards extensively, I run four shocks, removed the sides on the bumpers, and cut them down to level with the top of the brace, removed the roll bar, FOC, trimmed the F/R servo mounts and excess plastic off of the radio tray, hacked at the chasis, cut out sections of the skids that are covered by the lower sections of the bumpers, I mount my body directly to the shock towers instead of using the stock mounting gear, trimmed the rock guard out from around the steering servo, and I have Ti turnbuckles. It seems like there might be something else, but that's all I remember right now - oh yes, running bowties naturally.

Monsterbrad - I haven't had any problems with any of the drive shafts on this truck, we were talking about MIP upgrades. Don't worry about this truck - you've bought the next best thing to a tank, this thing just lacks the cannon - I must admit, sometimes I miss the high explosives.

[Monsterbrad]

Well I plan on pounding the heck outa it!!!!!!
I'll let ya all know after the spring starts
or should I say warmer weather

[Saboteur]

Dammit. Snow heading out way tomorrow and I didn't finish the break in yet :mad:

[Monsterbrad]

Yeah this stupid snow winter thing sucks
I have one truck that is running and thats the LSP not a winter snoe truck at all only race that one.
The MGT is brand new not broken in yet so no snow for that one either.
thought about getting a engine off ebay cheap and throwin it in there just to run it.
Oh well
spring is comming I guess
Anybody have any sugestions for a good all around tire???
I am thinking about some new 23mm wheels and new tires
Tire sugestions?????
I just need a good basher tire

[Saboteur]

Brad- I think the stock tires are pretty decent for bashing around. If you want, you cut slits in the V treads. I read that on an old pit tip and it claims to increase traction. I'm gonna bash mine stock and go for the full Re mod setup later on. Just gonna use the fuel, stock engine, and everything else. My Hitec 625 really stops my ride cold. At higher speeds it would flip for sure, or atleast skid very far. Infact, I can skid only going 10mph.

[Saboteur]

BTW, forgot to mention I tried it for another few tanks of break in. Runs a bit quicker, smoother, and it's not as loud as that stupid stock GT pipe. I'm gonna sell that pipe. Have NO intension what so ever to use it. :)

[MikeWz]

Sabs - I'm sure your LHS can order one for you. If they don't carry something, most of them will order it. They are WELL worth the cash you will pay for it (did I mention...that it's really worth the price? :p ). As for mounting the pipe...I don't know how yours works, but mine has a little nipple like thing that comes up the top with a hole in it. The wire brace goes through there, and that's how it's sercured (kinda like the stock GT pipe, but instead of being at the end of the pipe, it sticks up top). I simply used a peice of hanger wire for that. I put it through there, but it around and down the right side of the pipe and I use that to hold the mud guard on. I was able to take the 2nd screw/nut out (the things that hold the mud guards on), stick the wire through that hole, and bend it along the bottome of the mud guard. It's hard to explain in words. I'll try to take a picture and show you.

Monster Brad- The drive shafts are fine on this truck. I've personally never seen anybody break one, but, just like any truck, they will wear out after time (takes a long time, so don't worry about that). Stock tires are good for bashing, but you're going to want to get some stiffer springs to help it handle better. The blue springs are crazy soft.

[Monsterbrad]

the stock springs are realy soft but I am going to run them for a bit.
What are the sugestions for springs??????
and new aluminum shocks????

[Cotharyus]

I'm runnig the FT shocks for my four shock setup. So far so good on my current setup, which is using 80wt oil with the stock pistons, and a little heavier pre-load than I'd really like on my heavy duty springs (8.5 lbs/inch). So far they're working fine. I was having a problem with bending the E-clips that hold the pistons on the shafts running 90wt oil with a little less preload. For an eight shock setup, using red and gold on each corner seems to be popular, I was running copper and gold for a while, copper and red for a while, both worked well for me in different parts of my track. It just depends on what you're doing with it.

[MikeWz]

I find that a Red/Gold combo works good for me for bashing. My friend and I were trying to flip the truck and weren't able to. That's going full speed, turning hard left and then turning a quick hard right. Couldn't flip it...though I'm also running Zombie Maxx tires. They seem to work real well for me too, as they work real nice on a variety of surfaces.
As for shocks, I'm running Integy MSR4s hopefully going to be MSR5s soon. I like them a lot. Running 50wt oil in them. Only downside is the weight. If you're going race a bit then I wouldn't recommend aluminum shocks, 'less you're only gonna run one on each tire.

[Saboteur]

Mike-Mine just sits against the pipe and prevents it from moving. The part bending over it acts as a double brace to prevent it from shifting up or down. It's sufficient. I tried it and no problem. I just want to finish the breakin, but it's snowing already. May accumulate overnight. :(

[MikeWz]

Yeah I know, it's snowing here too. That should really affect the break-in though. I broke in my XXX-NT in the snow and never had a problem with it. Just watch your temps. Put some foil around the first 2-3 fins on the head and richen the mixture up a little bit. You'll be fine. How many tanks do you have through it already?

[Monsterbrad]

I am going to see if I can find some springs on ebay or something like that.
I really want the aluminum shocks though.
Plastic are good but I am worried about durability.

[Cotharyus]

Monsterbrad - you shouldn't have any durability issues with the stock shocks unless you go to a much heavier weight oil. Then if you take a hard hit, you chance blowing the tops off. Otherwise, you shouldn't have much trouble if you keep below a 50 wt oil in them.

[slaf]

I run stock shocks with 50wt and red springs. I ran 70wt with the same setup for a little while and have no shock problem but I didn't abuse the truck !

Coth did a great job to lightweight his truck, I can't figure what else he could do.

If you want to know some parts weight, check few pages ago. I weighted alot of parts.

[Monsterbrad]

I am going to leave the truck stock for a while I think.
Just change the pipe if I have to.
Going to try the LST stock pipe and the side header.
Does anybody know anyone that wants a SUT with a spare truck for parts rtr and the engine is like new less than 2 quarts through it!
Please I need to sell this thing.
Thanks

[Cotharyus]

On the off chance that anyone is looking for a body for their MGT - I purchased a Crowdpleazer 2.0 for my truck, but due to the modifications I've made to the way the body mounts, it's not going to work. The body is trimmed, and I am painting it (it's a sick job, this body will look fast sitting still) but there are no holes in it, and no decals on it, I will be including the decals with the body though, if anyone's interested let me know, and I'll give the guys here first shot at it, otherwise it's going on Ebay.

[Monsterbrad]

Send some pics my way
ExExCR@aol.com
if you don't want too much for it I will take it.
Let me know but I want to see it first

[slaf]

Coth -> Can you send me some pics rc10gt@globetrotter.net Will you like to trade for some MGT stuff. I have a brand new MGT waiting just beside me...Chassis..Body..CVD......

[Monsterbrad]

Anybody have any stock clutch problems???

[Cotharyus]

Slaf & Monsterbrad - I will take some pictures of it tomorrow when I'm finished. I would basicly like enough for the body to cover shipping it to whoever buys it + buying me another body + shipping that from tower - basicly you'll be getting a painted body for a few dollars more than this body would cost you from tower, if that helps.

As for the clutch problems, no. I'm still running the clutch that came in the truck, and haven't had any trouble out of it yet.

[MikeWz]

Coth - how much you want for it? I've been thinking about one of those bodies for a while now. Might as well pick one up and give the money to a fellow MGTer and RCZone guy

[Cotharyus]

Mike - that's pretty to the point. Lets say I'd like to have $30 for the body and $5 to ship it. If you guys that are interested want to hold a little bidding war to see who gets it you're welcome to. Here's a couple of shots of the finished paint job.

http://wilderness.dyn.dhs.org/cotharyus/rc/MGT/cp20.jpg

http://wilderness.dyn.dhs.org/cotharyus/rc/MGT/cp20-1.jpg

It's not a "perfect" paint job - if you look closely the black outlines don't have a consistant thickness, and some of the stripes look a little off center, but you have to look close to see that. Over all it gives the effect of a very fast, very tough looking body. And it's defidently unique.

As a side note, if anyone thinks this looks really slick, or wants a body painted up that looks like this, or pretty much any other way (except flames and intricate designs) PM me and we might be able to work something out.

[Saboteur]

YEEEAAHHH!!! Just came back from finishing the break in and a good bashing. The engine just kept getting faster and faster during the break in. It took me a bit to find that sweet spot, but when I did, LOOK OUT!! The front launches up while the rear hunkers down and it's on the move. I caught a few wheelies in the process, but it wasn't anything big. Man this this is quite fast and infact, it's faster than my 8th scale HB with .21BB. I'm currently running the mod that I posted. Workes REALLY REALLY well. So much for only fantoms pipes working. I'm just gonna stock up on some spare Arms for my ride. I kinda cracked the rear one a little bit, but I'll fix that. Was running about 30mph and had a nasty flip that had my cartwheeling on a a sorta of diagonal pattern (weird eh? ). Anyway, I'll get some spare arms for this bad boy and give her a good run again tomorrow. I've run 8 tanks so far though this thing. The stock tires are pretty great on the dirt since it's like clay with the melting snow..all mushy and stuff. On the ground I can easily peel out with the stock engine. I doubted the stock engine, but I think it's really fast. No need for an Ofna picco. Also, another small gripe was the steering linkage. It kinda popped off the ball cup on my first crash where I probably cracked the arm. It also came off when running in the field. No worries. I'll fix that. Only thing on my list at the LHS now is fuel, buch of A arms and maybe Ti turnbuckles. Prob check the RE manifold incase of failure with my setup. It looks like it's holding up though. :D Tomorrow is another day for fun. Time to recharge the batts and clean off the truck.

[Saboteur]

Hmm...decided to invest in some RPM parts. :)

[Monsterbrad]

Coth go ahead and sell the body to someone else.
I am not wild about the colors sorry
Any way I am glad to hear that someone is running there truck.
I am going to race my LSP indoor's on sunday.
Still have not decided if I am going to do a winter break in on the MGT yet though.
I might wait till a 40 or 50 degree day.
Oh well

[Saboteur]

Brad- I did mine while it was about 30 out. It was warmer in the park sorta, because there was less wind. I also put on the body of the truck and managed to get it to reach 200 degrees+. My ride ran flawlessly all the time. The new pipe offers more back pressure that the stock and this thing just plain hauls! RPM arms for sure and a RE manifold will be in my grasp.

[Cotharyus]

Yea - as long as you get the engine temps up without leaning the engine out too much (easy enough with some foil on the head) you should be able to break an engine in just fine in the winter.

[Monsterbrad]

Well I will have to try it maybe!
Depends on if I can get the engine up to 200
maybe I can close off the hole i have cut in the body that will help too.
Just have to wait for a none wet day when the street is dry.

[slaf]

You just have to put some aluminum foild around 2-3 fin on your engine head and run it a little bit richer. Be sure your temps are between 200 and 215 for breakin.

[Monsterbrad]

yeah I know I just have to wait for a day when its dry enough.
Can't wait to start pounding the heck out of this truck.
Also has anybody put the big Kimborough servo saver on this truck??????
i was thinking about it.

[Saboteur]

W000! Got my truck radared at 35mph! The exhaust really works! I'll leave the gearing stock and wait for my LHS to get the RPM arms in. Really nice truck indeed!

[slaf]

Saboteur -> I already instaaled rpm a-arms on my MGT and I really don't like them. They too much changed my suspension geometry and the truck was really easy to bottom out no mather what suspension setup I tried.

They are only good if you want a low riding truck. I instsaled back the stock one and the truck is just better this way.

[Saboteur]

Cool then. Stock parts it is :). Anything else I can do to get rid of weight on this truck besides new set of tires? :confused: I really don't want to buy a new engine and do another break in process. I mean the TT.21 only had 8 tanks in it and I don't want to toss it just yet. My HPI .21bb is still in a box with about maybe a gallon through it. I wonder if it's about the same power as the TT.21. I think both engines are about the same as the .21RG, which is why I'd shoot for maybe the Ofna/Picco .26 in the next 2 months or so.

Also, what are the difference between the titanium blue turnbuckles compared to these silver powerline racing Ti turnbuckles w/ball cups? Only thing I see is in price an looks. How about performance?

[Cotharyus]

Sab - it's going to be hard to say what the "performance" differences are, but I'd geuss you run a chance of having more cheaply made Ti parts for a cheaper price. I had some HG Ti stuff once that broke constantly. I've personally got the Lunsford Ti turnbuckles on my truck.

[Monsterbrad]

I have been a lunsford fan forever now.
I have been using there stuff for over 10 years.
Does anybody have the Mach 26 in this truck????

[slaf]

Sab -> To reduce your MGT weight you can...

- Cut shock reservoir
- Install Forward only conversion
- Change stock tires and rims
- Cut mud guard side
- Remove rear body clip and install your body directly on the shock posts
- Cut bumpers
- Install FT Titanium turnbuckle
- Cut steering servo guard
- Drill few holes in the chassis (Coth did that and his chassis is almost as light as FT chassis)

I think that the 2 first things to do is to install lighter wheels and tire and install Forward conversion kit.

And for the stock engine HP, I'll say around 2.0HP not more.

[Saboteur]

Coth-OK. How's the RG running for ya?

[Monsterbrad]

Yeah this engine is based one the TTR 21 so its probably is not anymore than 2 hp if that.
I have heard though that associated had some things done to the porting to make it a little hotter.
I just hope that it's as reliable as the ttr21 cause i love that engine in my schumahcer experiences.

[Cotharyus]

Sab - My RG is awsome. I punish the guys at the track running .25-.27 powered MTs of all types with it. And that was with the truck a fair bit heavier than it is now.

[Saboteur]

Cool. How's it compare to the stock TT21? The stocker seems to make good power.

[Cotharyus]

The RG has stronger low end, a more consistant power band, and it'll wind harder (further, faster?) than the stocker. Plus with a price tag of $130, it's almost disposable.

[Monsterbrad]

Hey coth post a link so I can check this RG out???????????????

[Cotharyus]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLU03&P=0

[Saboteur]

Hmm..if that's the case, then I may get a new one. Hate to do a new another break in again, but I think I honestly would like something with a bit more power. I don't think I'll get a new engine though anytime. I'll keep the RG on the list though. Makes me wonder that the .21BB is as powerful as the TT.21, therefore I won't install it. So RG over the picco.26 it is. :)

[Monsterbrad]

well the last os engine I had was the original .15 cv pull start with the blue head and as far as I am concerned besides the p-5 I had in my hyper 7 pro that was the best engine I have ever owned best and easiest to tune.
If the RG is like that for that kinda money I am sold.
So Coth here is the question????
How much more power is it than the stock .21???????
I am not a fan of these new .28's and all that they just guzzle more gas have a bit more torque but they are just not worth it...
How well does the RG hold a tune?
but the bigest thing is how much of a power increase??????
after all thats what we are all after MORE POWER

[Cotharyus]

Monsterbrad - All I can tell you about "how much more power" is that it got easier to whoop up on all those .25+ sized powered MT's at the track with the RG - So the question is, how much do you need? Hold a tune? The RG is a rock. It's easy to tune, and it'll hold it very well, minor adjustments for temp changes, as with any nitro engine, but if you run several tanks in a row on the same day, you can set it and forget it.

That said, there are better engines - the question is...how much power do you need?

[Saboteur]

How much power do I need...hmm. Anything to make my MGT wheelie when I want it too and get upto 40mph quicker would be nice. LOL. Anyway gonna beat the stock engine up a bit more in the park 2morrow. Hopefully it won't snow.

[slaf]

Sab, if you wanna pop wheelies you'll need more than a .21

[Saboteur]

What I'm thinking. Does the Sav weigh a lot less than the MGT or are they about the same? Wondering what it takes to get the front of this monster up in the air. Most likely less weight, but eh I'll see what goes on later.

[slaf]

I don't know if the Savage is heavier than the MGT. I read at many places in RCCA that Sav weights 7kg but I think Sav is just a little bit heavier than MGT. I never weighted my Savage...Coth influenced me later, when my Savage was sold...:)

[Cotharyus]

The picco .26 will get the front wheels of a savage off the ground very effectively, but not with 40+ mph gearing. I don't think it would take much work to get an MGT to wheelie with one though.

For the record, my MGT will wheelie with a .21, but only if I stiffen the suspension up more than I like to.

[slaf]

I prefer stay the front wheels on the ground...:)

[slaf]

Did anyone see a external 2 speed tranny on a MGT ? I saw it somewhere but I can't remember where. A guy at the track did this conversion on his truck..I dodn't see the truck but I remember a picture somewhere ....

[Chevy-SS]

With all due respect to Coth, I think you guys looking for a lot more power should move to a .26. I have had two of the OS .21 RG engines. They make decent power, but they certainly do not have the torque that a Picco .26 has (I got three of these). Torque is what gives you acceleration. As they say, "there's no replacement for displacement".

There is always a little variation possible while producing engines. Perhaps Coth got a RG engine that just happened to be machined and assembled just right. I have been racing many different types of cars (street cars and RC) for many years and I can always remember how amazed we could be that one Chevy 350 (same year and HP rating), could be so much faster than another. I'm sure it's the same with RC engines.

However, I see guys here who want parts-breaking power and wheelies on demand. You ain't gonna get that kind of performance with the OS RG .21. For that kind of performance you need a .26 or bigger.

[MikeWz]

You should be able to get the wheels up with a .21. I can get my front wheels really light on the ground. With the right springs/pre-load you'll definitely be able to do it with the RG. But about getting to 40MPH. In order to do that you'll have to change the gearing. Think about it, with the same gearing the top-speed isn't ever going to change unless the engine revs a significan't amount higher. If you get the RG, and you wanna get up to 40mph, you're going to have to gear it taller, in which case you're going to lose the bottom-end advantage

[MikeWz]

You should be able to get the wheels up with a .21. I can get my front wheels really light on the ground. With the right springs/pre-load you'll definitely be able to do it with the RG. But about getting to 40MPH. In order to do that you'll have to change the gearing. Think about it, with the same gearing the top-speed isn't ever going to change unless the engine revs a significan't amount higher. If you get the RG, and you wanna get up to 40mph, you're going to have to gear it taller, in which case you're going to lose the bottom-end advantage

[MikeWz]

You should be able to get the wheels up with a .21. I can get my front wheels really light on the ground. With the right springs/pre-load you'll definitely be able to do it with the RG. But about getting to 40MPH. In order to do that you'll have to change the gearing. Think about it, with the same gearing the top-speed isn't ever going to change unless the engine revs a significan't amount higher. If you get the RG, and you wanna get up to 40mph, you're going to have to gear it taller, in which case you're going to lose the bottom-end advantage

[Cotharyus]

Chevy - you've got a point. I hype the RG so much because it has control - very important on the track - which allows me to beat trucks with bigger engines by being faster through/out of turns (see my on/off switch complaints about bigger engines) to gain an advantage. Also, most off road tracks are not about top speed unless they have long straights, they are more about being able to accelerate, which allows modest top end gearing to work with a .21 for acceleration that matches, or is better in some cases, than the acceleration of bigger engines with taller gears. You also have to figure that the bigger engines loose a little on the RPM side to the .21's, which gives me a little better top end using the same gears, than the bigger engines would have. It's always a give/take thing when selecting an engine. If we had any big tracks in this area that I raced on regularly, I would probly have a fantom .27 in my box with a big set of gears to put on for those tracks, but my .21 with 16/49 gearing works very well on all the local tracks.

[Saboteur]

Mikewz-Tripple post? LOL. *looks at O/P .26*. Maybe the LHS can provide me with a discount. I'll also look into some stiffer springs and try the preload clips. Need more arms on the side too for future breakage if any. Too bad we have a down pour of snow/ice here right now :(

[MikeWz]

Wow guys, sorry for my rediculous internet....definitely didn't want to post the same thing 3 times. Sometimes it takes like 15mins for my internet to register that it's posted or something....oh well

Chevy/Coth - Everybody seems to hype low-end in off-road racing. Yes, it's important. However, I would argue that it's not as important as many people make it out to be. Note many of the hi/po engines that most of the pro racers use in both 1/10 and 1/8 scale racing are actually engines that make most of their power in the mid-top rpms. That's because it's not the low-end that really counts, it's the control. If you can't keep your front wheels on the ground, or you can't put all the power to the ground, what's the point in having it all? What's really important is being able to get up-and-over that jump. That usually means getting out of that last corver with as much power as possible. To me, that seems to be the big problem with the engines over .21. Seems like the companies didn't do their research and just wanted to get them out. Their power curve seems pretty flat after about 20ishK rpms. That's not cool on the track. If you're just bashing that's just fine, but for anything other than a straight line....no good

[slaf]

I guess we must wait for OS to release a .26 CVR or something similar !

I send them an email to know if they will release a similar engine...No answer yet !

[Monsterbrad]

I agree with some of this because if you can't control the power which alot of people can not do at the track that I race at all you do is run into stuff and crash.
On the other hand the LST has the Mach 26 in it and it wheelies like crazy but they are kinda hard to control.
I bought this truck to be reliable and not wheelies everywhere but it is nice to be able to hang the front tires or a bump but I have heard that the stock engine is ok for this just not hammering the gas and the front wheels come off the ground like the LST.
I also race my LSP on a little tight track with lots of jumps with the stock no rpm force .26 and I win all the time cause I don't have all that crazy power to cause problems.
Oh well its all about what you are going to do with the truck..

[slaf]

There is nothing wrong with more power as long as you control the power. The same is true with my RC10GT, too much power will make the truck hard to drive.

The MGT slipper is not the best slipper on the market. Maybe with a better slipper this will be easier to control high torque engines.

I'll continue to run my stock .21 engine as long as it will start. I don't know what's the next engine I'll buy. Here it's a short track, no need for high hp engines.

The LHS guy was so much exciting because his LST was juming farther the others monster trucks, I showed him that my little .21 was able to jump as far as his LST.

A well tuned and drived monster truck is always better than just an overpowered mt.

[Monsterbrad]

Well I have the LST and its by far the most powerful rig I have owned out of the box.
But its not that tough.
I would rather be able to run the heck out of the truck for a quart or more and have no problems than all the nutty power.
Thats why I bought the MGT I have heard that they are really really tough.
:-)

[Chevy-SS]

........Chevy/Coth - Everybody seems to hype low-end in off-road racing. Yes, it's important. However, I would argue that it's not as important as many people make it out to be...............
.................................................. ............................................. What's really important is being able to get up-and-over that jump. That usually means getting out of that last corver with as much power as possible. ..........
Methinks I see a contradiction here. In the first part you say low-end is not as important as many people make it out to be.

Then, in the second part you talk about how important it is to get "out of that last corner with as much power as possible", which is exactly what low-end means (to me).

I guess what this all means is that we are all pretty much in agreement, perhaps we just think of it in different ways. ;)

[slaf]

Does anyone know where I can find good off road tracks pictures ??? I want to build my own track but I need pictures to see what a real rc track look like...Or better, do you have pictures of the tracks where you race ?

[Cotharyus]

I tend to think of coming out of a corner as using the midrange of an engine - precisely where everything I've ever seen with more than .21 displacement lacks control - because they're either wide open or idling. You'd be amazed how many people I beat just because they spin coming out of the last corner while I'm haning onto thier bumper.


As a side note, would you believe I found another .7 oz of excess weight on my truck? Oh yea - ordered the Ti hingpins, pillowballs and brake shoes. Geuss we'll see how light I can get it huh?

[slaf]

Coth -> Do you know how weight the FT Hex ? Maybe another few oz saved

[MikeWz]

Chevy - if that's what you think of low-end, than yes we are in agreement. To me, low-end is the beginning of the powerband. Mostly getting off the line and pulling the hole shot. Any track I've raced at when I'm coming out of a corner I'm already out of what I would consider the "low-end". At this point it's what I would consider to be the mid-range. Just out of the low-end...but not quite up into the higher RPMs yet. Prolly doing about 10ish-15ish mph. This is where the .26s and stuff seem to struggle to me. It seems they really strain to get up and outta there.

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - race track pictures:
http://wilderness.dyn.dhs.org/maxxtrack/pictures/

Since I did a substantial amount of building on both of the track designs, I can answer questions for you.

As for the FT hexxes, they're on the way too - I figured they're worth a shot, but I doubt they'll save more than 1/10 of an ounce or so.

[slaf]

Thanks Coth. Can you give me the track dimension. I'd like to see how jumps are made and how high they are.

[Monsterbrad]

With this engine issue
bigger does not always mean better or faster.
I think that the bigger engines anything over a .21 have more torque and HP but they lack in the RPM range.
I know that my P-5 engine that was a .21 ran just as good as all these engine's I have now granted they are all rtr engines and that was a race engine and built for just this.
The Mach .26 is a great engine and so is the ttr .21 but where one has power the other does not in so many words.
I have watched a .28 run against a .25 and the difference is so small other than using a bunch more gas not worth it.

[Saboteur]

Gonna get the stock arms and new set of springs soon. Anyone tired the medium springs? Is it worth it or better go with the red and stock shock oil? I too am thinking the stock stuff is gettin a lil too soft.

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - the new version of the track is about 98x50 feet, the big crossover (track jump) is about 26 or 30 inches tall. Lane width varies from 5 feet to 12 feet. The jumps are all dirt, all the way through, except for the retainer built around the track sides of the big crossover, and all that does is keep the dirt out of the track. All banks and berms are solid dirt. I use a front end loader on a small tractor to move the dirt for the jumps, and I use a box scraper to level the track surface.

Sab - The gold (medium) springs (4) one on each corner, and the red (heavy) springs (4) one on each corner are the way to go for a two shock setup most of the time. I did run reds and coppers on one or two occassions, and was very successful, but that track was almost just a dirt oval.

[Monsterbrad]

so what's the best all around spring set up for this truck????

[Saboteur]

Stock is good for badly rutted areas. I'm gonna try the mediums maybe..or might as well just go with the red.

[Cotharyus]

Monsterbrad - did you bother to read the post I posted right before you asked what the best all around spring setup was? One gold, and one red on each corner, the stock oil will be fine.

[MikeWz]

I have to agree with Coth...except that I personally run 50wt oil. It just enough extra to take away any bounce. If you run stiffer springs but keep a light weight oil the truck can get bouncy.

[slaf]

Coth -> My track will be 50x100 and similar to your setup. What kind of dirt is this ? My plan is already done, one big jupm (3.5 ft high), rythm section (6" to 8" high), double jumps (1.5ft high) and few other jumps here and there. The straight line will be 100ft long. Unfortunately I will not have any banked turns. all lane will be 12ft large but all jumps will be 8ft large cause I want to keep a 4ft lane for my son to play in the track. I want to run my MGT, RC10GT and maybe my RC18T.

Maybe this summer I can invite you all !!! Now I have to find a name for my track :)

I know it's not the track forum but here's the setup

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - that setup looks like it'll work. I like the idea about keeping 4 ft open for your son - just make sure you don't hook one of those jumps (half on half off) and put something on it's lid :) - the dirt on my track is topsoil that came out of a large pasture field when they built a super walmart in the middle of it. We got 3 10 wheel dumptruck loads of topsoil from the construction site.

[slaf]

Coth -> Sorry but what does it mean ??? My English is not that good :)

just make sure you don't hook one of those jumps (half on half off) and put something on it's lid[I]

[Cotharyus]

slaf - sorry about that, it means don't hit the jump half on and half off and roll one of your trucks over - on a small jump, its not that bad, but on a big jump with any speed, you can really start to tear things up that way - don't worry about your english - you speak (type?) better english than most of the people I see on bulliten boards that are from the US and should speak perfect english.

[slaf]

Coth -> Thanks for your help and thanks for my English. In fact, I type better than I speak english...You don't have to hear my accent :) :)

[Saboteur]

Hey Coth, you mean like this? Mikewz showed me this. I hope I have it right so I can try it for myself with the stock oil.

Gold Gold
Red Red

Red Red
Gold Gold

[Cotharyus]

Sab - yea, that looks right - one gold and one red on each corner.

[Monsterbrad]

Monsterbrad - did you bother to read the post I posted right before you asked what the best all around spring setup was? One gold, and one red on each corner, the stock oil will be fine.
Hey Coth
I did read that but you said that was a good race set up I was not sure about all around set up..
I am not planning on racing this truck just bashing it mostly...

[Cotharyus]

Well, it depends on what you're after - for general purpose great handling, that's it. If you want to jump the thing off your house, get two sets of coppers. If you want to drive it 45 mph over a rutted construction site, stick to the blue springs. Then of course, there's anywhere in between.

[Monsterbrad]

thats true
well the stockers are good for now i guess
i am just trying ideas for now

[Saboteur]

Gonna try to go get my arms tomorrow at the LHS. :)

[Monsterbrad]

what kinda arms
after having the LSP i kinda want all my rigs to have them but ya know they won't...

[Saboteur]

Just the stock arms since the RPM changes the suspension geometry.

[Saboteur]

Well actually it doesn't seem to be a big deal. I don't mind it being slightly lower. I think it's cool since I don't have any big rocks to climb over or so. Maybe I'll give it a try. Also, my quest to lower some of the weight will start. Gonna get those Proline blue hubs and try some smaller tires. No need for these big old MGT tires. I'm on my quest for some Tmaxx 2.5 speed. It will start with the smaller tires, probably the FOC, and I think the OS .21RG.

[Saboteur]

Ok here is the list so far guys.

Kimborough 52T spur
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGFW6&P=Z

RPM arms (not entirely sure yet)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGWR6&P=Z

OS .21RG (dont need a link for that)

Thats about it. More to come. I think I will get rid of the reverse, but not just yet. I'm gettin use to it.

[boostspike]

Whatup people.... i just got my MGT a few days ago... Holy cow, this thing is HUGH... i took both my NTC3, and N4Tec.. lined them up side by side and the MGT is still bigger and wider then the 3 of them.. :D

i can't wait to do the break-in and start having a little fun...

since i've never broken-in anything larger then a .18 motor.. are the .21 safe temps basically the same?? (225-250F)

thanks all.....

[Cotharyus]

boostspike - congrats - you're going to love this thing. The engine temps are pretty close on there, you should be able to look for anywhere from 200 to 240 and get good engine life.

[slaf]

Sab -> The major problem with RPM A-Arms is that your truck will bottom out really hard, no matter how you setup your suspension.

Some hupups are good but 75% of hopup on the market are just money waste.

[Monsterbrad]

Slaf thats for sure. about the hop ups
You have to figure that the truck was held in the test department forever if i do recall correctly but they released a great truck at least that what you guys are saying on here.
I have one but have not run it yet but it sure looks awesome.
Just remember u guys shaving weight make sure that you are not shaving durability thats been my problem in the past.
I have the LST and I think that it could have spent more time in the test stages at LOSI to work more problems out.
But oh well
Have fun with this truck and when breakin it in do the heat cycle method don't run it on the stand ideling for a whole tank.
Run it up to 200 a bunch of times right off the bat then shut it down.
DO this about 8-10 times then run it up to 200 again and pull the plug quickly if you have no pinch or reisitance then you are ready to tune for most power..
Also with this engine you might want to stay away from the 250 degree mark thats a little hot for a big block although there are some that run good there..

[Cotharyus]

To some extent, you have to sacrifice some level of durabiltiy to loose weight on something like this, unless you go from steel to a high quality Ti part. However, things like trimming the edges on the mud guards don't really affect the durability of the mud guards - it may however, open up the gas tank to some damage from hard hits to the side. I haven't had any trouble with this though. Likewise, trimming the bumpers down like I did, doesn't weaken the bumpers per se, but it does decrease the area on the front and rear of the truck that are protected by the bumpers. That said, while I've broken a front and rear bumper, I've not broken any arms on this truck, and only two knuckles. In my opinion, the worst trade off is removing the roll bar - but that does allow the body to be mounted lower, and by using a thicker body with the right design, you can keep from causing too much damage to your engine and shock towers, which are the next things in line for hits when you remove the roll bar. Anyhow, it's all trade offs, you have to decide what is acceptable for you and what isn't. For me, what's not acceptable is getting beaten at the track because someone else was | | that much quicker. I can live with the sacrificed durabilty since my truck *still* breaks less than most of the other trucks at my track.

[Saboteur]

Ok. What about the Kim. spur gear? Should I get that or no? I'm getting the shocks and the stock arms then. Would like a new engine though. I'll double check to see if my friend wants my engine. I would love to toss my RB S5 in the MGT (:Dx10) , but to see if a PS will fit on it would cost a lot, not to mention make it slower. Ah well.

[slaf]

Sab -> The spur gears only if you need them :) It's nice to have 2-3 spare spurs. If you decide to change your tires or engine...You'll need new spurs. Kim are good ones.

[Saboteur]

Say if I go with those new proline hubs and get the tires that the rims that fit them, what spur size should I go with then? BTW, I didn't get to go today. Bad weather. I'll set it aside for sometime next week maybe.

[Cotharyus]

I've just got to update the MGT's diet - you remember where I said I'd found .7oz extra I could take off? Well, I did some additional touchups on that job today, and then reassembled the peices I was working on, and it was actually .9oz lighter than the original weight. I haven't checked yet, but I'm pretty sure this means I now have a sub-10lb MGT. If it isn't yet, it certainly will be when my Ti parts come in.

[slaf]

Sab -> Gear ratio depend on what you do with your truck and if you race, it depends on the race track too.

Coth -> When you weighted your truck, did you weight it with the hump pack installed ?

[2mcgrath]

just a quick question are the wheels on these things compatable with maxx and savage wheels?and how about the bodies

[fuzzy2133]

the wheels are compatable however they are smaller so add 1 or 2 teeth on the CB is a good idea. the bodies will be too small, they can fit but will not cover bumper to bumper and to the sides like the stock body does.

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - when I weigh my truck, I weigh it with everything it needs in/on it to run except a full tank of fuel. Otherwise, I'd be cheating right?

[slaf]

Slaf - when I weigh my truck, I weigh it with everything it needs in/on it to run except a full tank of fuel. Otherwise, I'd be cheating right?

I weight mine with everything aboard including hump pack but NO fuel in the tank.

I don't know how RCCA weight their trucks in their reviews. I think they use what manufacturer specifies.

[Cotharyus]

Weight update - Stock hingepins: 1.9 oz, Lunsford Ti hingepins: 1.1 oz. I will get a weight on the hardcore pillowballs, but I haven't opened them yet, one of the packages I recieved has a defective unit in it, there is no hex socket machined into the end of it. I'm trying to get that one replaced, then I'll weigh and install them.

[Saboteur]

Slaf- I'm just horsing around. I think I may leave the stocks on for now. I'm really yearing for a real car and think I'll stop with the RC craze and enjoy what I have. Maybe spend a few bux here or there, but nothing too crazy. I'd definately like a new engine for the MGT and that's what I'll definately get first. As for a servo, if I can find something with more power for a good price, then I'll add that in. Still trying to find a way to sell my other cars so I can use the $$$.

[2mcgrath]

allright thanks for the advice..

[slaf]

Coth -> Do you have videos of your track ?

[Monsterbrad]

I asked this before
But
what are you guys doing for steering up grades???????????
I have the 645 bolted in mine and I was thinking about the steering system that eliminates the need for the steering servo on the servo changes it to 1/8 scale buggy type.....
???????????????

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - no video's yet. There will be some though as soon as our season starts here.

Monsterbrad - The ultimate steering upgrade is the Airtroncis 359. Of course, it's a little pricy, at $140 for a servo, but it's the best (non-digital) servo I know of. I haven't had any trouble with the servo saver, and the stock steering setup appears to be lighter than the factory team setup - can anyone confirm this?