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Monsterbrad
01-16-2005, 03:36 PM
I just like the 1/8 scale design thats all...
I'll just try the stock saver and my 645 I guess..
Saboteur
01-16-2005, 05:39 PM
Monsterbrad-How does the 645MG work in the MT?
Chevy-SS
01-17-2005, 08:33 AM
I asked this before
But
what are you guys doing for steering up grades???????????
I have the 645 bolted in mine and I was thinking about the steering system that eliminates the need for the steering servo on the servo changes it to 1/8 scale buggy type.....
???????????????
I think you are referencing the Factory Team servo saver kit, which eliminates the saver on the servo and uses the cam-type bellcrank. This is a nice kit and works well. Just be sure to use loctite or a nut to hold the tension adjuster in place. It will loosen up and then you will have no steering.
At 133 oz @ .20 sec, I don't think the 645 is really enough, IMO. You need at least something like the Airtronics 94358 with 200 oz of torque @ .10 sec. I am using two of those servos on my MGT. The two-servo steering mod is very easy to do and will dramatically improve steering response. Additionally, I have this truck set up so that I can switch it to complete four-wheel steering, which will make the truck turn the tightest circle you ever saw.
If you're interested, I have details on these mods at my MGT web site:
http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/home.htm
:)
Cotharyus
01-17-2005, 08:57 AM
Chevy - I've meant to look at your site a couple of times. I must say, it looks good. I find myself somewhat interested in the 4ws mod, I've looked at the thread on the board you've got a link to, but a lot of the pictures are broken - what are the odds you could move a lot of that to your page (for instance the parts and description) and then take some of your own pictures to describe the mod visually?
Did anyone try the FT head ?
Chevy-SS
01-17-2005, 11:23 AM
Chevy - I've meant to look at your site a couple of times. I must say, it looks good. I find myself somewhat interested in the 4ws mod, I've looked at the thread on the board you've got a link to, but a lot of the pictures are broken - what are the odds you could move a lot of that to your page (for instance the parts and description) and then take some of your own pictures to describe the mod visually?
Thanks Coth. I don't see any problem with doing a little copy/paste/post on the relevant text and pics. It'll give me something to do.
Chevy-SS -> Maybe you can start your own forum :)
Chevy-SS
01-17-2005, 12:31 PM
Chevy-SS -> Maybe you can start your own forum :)
Slaf - LOL, I love this truck and racing it is great.
Coth - I updated the 4-wheel steering page on the web site. It is fairly complete now. The mod is a little complex, but one of the really nice things about this mod is that it can be done in a variety of ways, so you can pick your flavor. http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/4wsmod.htm
:cool:
Chevy -> Your tuning section make me remember that I must renew my subscription :)
I'm at work right now...Not much thing to do here too !
Cotharyus
01-17-2005, 04:00 PM
Chevy - nice work! I'm going to get some track time on my current setup and see if I've helped it any ( it should be better than it was, but I don't know if it's good enough or not - remember, my problem is that T-Maxx's and Revo's can turn inside me on the track, so it's hard to keep them behind me, or get around them effectively without wrecking them (which is fun, but....)) before I try to do the 4ws mod. However, there are some good ideas there. My problem is I've already thought about doing this one other way, which is either going to be much easier, or much more complicated, but simply involves some changes to the rear bumper to allow a small bellcrank to be mounted there, the stock turnbuckles on the back should work, with the knuckles in the stock possition.
Coth -> Did you try thicker rear diff oil ? There is also certainly way to have more steering. I'll check my MGT carefully tonight, may be you can have more steering without 4ws.
Cotharyus
01-17-2005, 05:16 PM
Slaf - I've gone from the grease I was using (I used to clean out the diff when I got it and put a special grease I get in them instead of the stock stuff) to 10k weight diff oil - I haven't had a chance to try it out yet though. I've also made some minor stance (ride height) adjustments to the truck in an effort to get it to turn a little more, and I'm even pondering some additional toe-in, I normally only run about 1 degree in. I also run 0 degree in the back as a matter of preference. I may go to 2 or 3 degrees in on the front.
Coth -> I'M sure I read something about some modification to get more steering but I can't remember where :( :(
Cotharyus
01-17-2005, 08:26 PM
Well, you can take out the little stop in the middle of the bell crank - it's held on by a screw in the middle of the front skid plate if memory serves. It only gives you a degree or two more though, tops.
All I remember the guy grinded some parts but it's all I remember....Only 33 and I already have momery problem....Excuse me but what are we talking about :) :)
Seriously Coth, I'll try to find the web site and post it. By the way, Does S. Pond write you ?
Cotharyus
01-17-2005, 09:36 PM
Grinding parts? that sounds like something I'd do.
Steve Pond does reply to posts around here. Don't be suprised if he replies to the thread I've got going in the MT forum about plans to do a test like that, or why he can't do it, and possibly with some advice about the engines in question.
Saboteur
01-17-2005, 10:00 PM
Coth -> I'M sure I read something about some modification to get more steering but I can't remember where :( :(
I think it was that Richard Saxton setup or whomever saying to use a thick diff oil in the rear and a lighter one up from. Not sure though, but I'm thinking of trying that out.
monstatruCkin
01-17-2005, 10:49 PM
has anyone tried the golden horizons cooling head? how is it? also has any1 tried the peak racin diablo .28 looks interestin for the price of $180 at tower. it has 2.85 hp and 42,800 rpm.
Toycar
01-18-2005, 02:54 AM
I have both the wasp28 (same as diablo28 except colour) and a wasp26. Taking apart both I'd choose the 26 over the 28 any day. The 26 block is much bigger than the 28 but the bore on the 28 is huge vs the 26 (small block makes the intake runners in the 28 too small), bigger rear main bearing on the 26 (weak point on the 28), bigger crank rod journal on the 26 (weak point on the 28), better porting on the 28 (28 can make hp in the upper rpm range but I think the small intake runners from the small block prevents this and one could easily port the 26 as I did).
I've read many people with major tuning issues with the 28 and not so bad with the 26. I've run the 26 for over a year but not the 28. I don't have any experience with the 28 yet but I'm already pesimistic about it.
Saboteur
01-18-2005, 03:18 PM
Welcome Monsta! :) BTW, that engine won't make that much amount of power. It's just an assumption. ;)
monstatruCkin
01-18-2005, 05:07 PM
well peak racin claims that but owell i think i just might go with the picco 26
monstatruCkin
01-18-2005, 05:13 PM
i think im havin aproblem with the stock engine. just got the mgt for x-mas. broke in correctly and i was on my 13th tank and the engine got up to 303 degres faren!!!!!!! WAY TO HOT! it was even like 20 outside and i was runnin supa rich... just might hav to do the seal job lol.
Cotharyus
01-18-2005, 05:33 PM
I would recommend that you check all your carb settings before you try sealing everything. Most of the time people richen up the top end when it gets cold outside, and forget all about the bottom end. Richen that up as well.
monstatruCkin
01-18-2005, 05:38 PM
thanks coth ill give it a try and right now its about 7 turns out so maybe a lil more woodnt hurt..
Monsterbrad
01-18-2005, 08:00 PM
running these little engine's when it is super cold out does them no good.
You are trying to get the engine up to 200 or just a little over and leaning the engine out is normaly what it takes when it's that cold.
I trashed my 25 savage engine last winter in just a few months running in the super cold weather cause I was leaning it out to make temp and the oil was starved from the engine and just wore the engine out.
just make sure that you have the spray of oil that it normaly has and it should be ok.
Snow is much fun though have not been out in it yet
all my engine's are new and need broken in except for the LSP and thats strickly race
oh well
just have to wait!!!
Saboteur
01-18-2005, 08:01 PM
I agree. Besides, these are a time to bust out the electrics. :)
Monsterbrad
01-18-2005, 08:09 PM
well if I had an electric I would think about it but I don't...
Oh well
Still love the look of this truck stock I was just lookin it over again.
Thing just looks tough.
I replaced the revo with this truck cause I could not stand the small block anymore!!!!!
You can run your nitro outside when it's cold. Just wrap some aluminum foil around few fins and tape hole in the windshield so your engine will reach a normal temp. You must run your engine richer when it's cold cause air is more dense. Your engine should run in the 230-260F
Leaning out your engine to let it get warmer is not a good idea.
monstatruCkin
01-18-2005, 08:57 PM
the truk is tuff stock but i think there is one area they cood of improved on .. those crappy upper arm mounts. they bend so easily i did a cartwheel goin off a 4 ft jump in light snow/packed dirt and it bent. easy to bend bak with vice grips tho
Saboteur
01-19-2005, 01:58 PM
Weird, I never bent mine. :) Only cracked a rear arm.
Cotharyus
01-19-2005, 05:58 PM
I was told at one point that the upper arm mounts bend easily, so I bought an extra set with the truck. They are still in my parts box, the original ones having survived a year of heavy racing.
Monsterbrad
01-19-2005, 06:29 PM
I would have the say that the cart wheel accident has to be the worst on any truck.
All the weight of the tires and all flinging around putting stress on parts that are not meant to have stress in that direction.
I can't wait till spring I am going to put this truck through hell and probably back again.
I beat the revo and it passed the test but was just well too slow and Traxxas on top of it so it went .
I will let ya all know how things go.
my LST impresses me for sheer power stock but is not that strong...
I have been hearing that this truck is just plain tough!!!
I never bent a-arm mounts or break a-arms yet. I never abused my truck, even at race track.
Can someone explain me what a cart wheel ? I know it's a stupid question but I don't know this expression ? Is this landing on a single wheel ?
Cotharyus
01-19-2005, 10:38 PM
Slaf - How to describe a cartwheel is sort of hard, but think about the name. Imagine an old fashion horse drawn cart. You know how it had spokes going out from the hub to the steel banded wooden ring that was the outside of the wheel? Well, when something like a monster truck "cartwheels" it basicly rolls along the ground like an old wheel - using the four wheels and both bumpers as the outside ring. Does that make sense?
Monsterbrad
01-19-2005, 10:54 PM
Tip the truck up in wheelie mode on the rear bumper then role it to the side really really fast thats a cart wheel it spins on just the tires sideways hope this helps...
Saboteur
01-19-2005, 11:03 PM
Anyone actually said the FOC unit makes the truck faster or something? I don't see one on tower hobbies. How much are they? I kinda think the truck is cool with the reverse so I may keep it.
MikeWz
01-19-2005, 11:42 PM
Okay here's probably a good way to describe a cartwheel
Take your truck and stand it up on the front bumper so that it's at a 90* angle to the ground. Now flip it end-over-end...but sideways (as in rolling left or right rather than forwards or backwards). It puts a lot of stress on parts, especially if you happen to be moving quite fast when it happens
Thanks guys I understand now :)
I already done carthweeling with my trucks (who never did !). I was naming this "stunt": "%?$!! Hope he'll stop on his wheels"...Like many other stunts I did ! :) :)
Sab -> Here's the kit -> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFVB7&P=7
This will make your MGT faster and quicker because this will eliminate some rotating masses and reduce weight by removing alors of grears and reverse servo.
If you install the kit, take your time and you must install shims differently from instruction...There is a small mistake.
Cotharyus
01-20-2005, 08:39 AM
If you're looking for speed, the FOC is a must. It knocks allmost a half a pound out of the tranny - mostly rotating mass. Which reminds me - they could knock this truck down another half a pound by offering a Ti gearset for it. Now that would rock.
Coth...You are a MGT diet specialist :)
Cotharyus
01-20-2005, 11:03 AM
Heh - well, you know how it is. I race for fun, and I'm serious about having fun....which means it's more fun to win. And what better way to win than whoop up on everyone with a truck that has a smaller engine in it, and handles better - especially when that truck is supposed to be heavy and underpowered.
I can't race it, I can't run it....There is nothing to do here today except looking for some MGT videos. I miss my truck :(
MikeWz
01-20-2005, 01:50 PM
Sab - installing that kit will help in accel, top-end, and handling. There's also another trick, and I believe it's putting your battery in the channel 3 slot or something like that. I don't have my truck up here at school at the moment so I can't check it to be sure...but I'm pretty sure that's what it is.
Saboteur
01-20-2005, 02:33 PM
Removing almost half a pound on the tranny? Sweet. Definately worth getting. I'll see it the LHS has this in stock. The reverse is cool, but since this new upgrades boosts everything, I'm all for it. Expecting many an additional 2-4mph maybe?
monstatruCkin
01-20-2005, 06:10 PM
i wont get rid of reverse i always use it. ill just find the best gear ratio and an upgraded engine. yestaday i just got my shipment from tower rpm a-arms and a gh coolin head. everythin is nice but the arms change suspension geometry alot it lowers ground clearance alot. im thinkin of putin the stok arms back on so i dont bottom out so easily
If you just bash, you better keep your reverse, this will save you from many walks !
BTW does anybody have a small block for sale ?
monstatruCkin
01-20-2005, 09:16 PM
i just ordered the ae factory steering kit and extra firm and firm springs for the truck. im currently runnin the 645 for my steerin but transit time is slow. at least with the steerin kit it'll b smoother and i can take the saver off the servo. future mods include titanium linkages, hingepins and pillowballs.
fuzzy2133
01-20-2005, 09:55 PM
If you just bash, you better keep your reverse, this will save you from many walks !
BTW does anybody have a small block for sale ?
What size are you looking for? I have 2 or 3 just sitting on the shelf.
Saboteur
01-20-2005, 11:03 PM
Yeah, thats what I thought. Keep the reverse and just get a more powerful engine. The OS .21RG or Picco .26 is on the way :) I honestly need more power.
Monsterbrad
01-20-2005, 11:44 PM
I am liking the os 21 rg they are cool and it's OS can't go wrong there...
Hey monsta
let us know how that new factory team steering works!!!!
I want to up grade the steering badly but can not make up my mind.
I gave up on the Minizilla idea to up grade my monsters instead...
Fuzz -> I need a .12, .15 or .18 with pull start ad long threaded crankshaft
I can also trade for some new MGT parts...(diff, chassis, body, etc...)
monstatruCkin
01-21-2005, 11:48 AM
how much power can the drivetrain handle? i wanna put a .46 in!! ILL PROBABLY B REPLACIN GEARS 24/7 LOL. anyone no??
monsterbrad- ill b getin the steerin kit in tuesday ill let ya no how it is
JamminJay
01-21-2005, 05:22 PM
Cotharyus-
You might remember a few months ago (October or November) I pmed you about your MGT, cuz i thought I was getting one... but it didn't pan out as you can see, otherwise I would have been posting on this forum. Well, as luck has it and fate came my way, I have run into another deal I want on an MGT & he's supposed to paypal me his address so I can pay for it tonight, It is well taken care of, and has alot of hop ups on it that i wanted to race it. Lets see what you think of it:
Team associated forward only kit/remove servo for reverse save some weight
Lunsford raceing titanium tie rod front/rear
Proline wheels with boe tie tires (40's)
GPM aluminum steering nuckles
team associated option shocks and heavy duty red springs
GPM titanium disk brake and fiber pads
Team associated team option cooling head blue
Team associated team option blue side mounted tuned pipe.
Team associated team option steering kit blue aluminum
Ofna steering servo horn aluminum
It has stock servo's and radio
shaved the f/r bumpers to save weight
trimmed up the body post to get rid of some excess weight
has a ton of extra's
????? Do I need to do anything else to make it track worthy? Is that a good start? also I will be putting my XS3 & better servos in it obviously. I'll try to attach some pics but evrytime I try any other day it wont work for me.
JamminJay
01-21-2005, 05:24 PM
Pic 2
monstatruCkin
01-21-2005, 06:33 PM
jamminjay- thats alot of goood features on their its definately track worthy especially with all those weight savin features. if u want it 2 go faster change gearin but u dont wanna lose to much low end when u change it.
does any1 no how the jumbo kongs r on this truck? do they look scale with the rest of the truk or they an ovakill?
Monsterbrad
01-21-2005, 07:14 PM
They are huge and are hard on the drive train.
also Jammin that looks like a sweet deal depending on how much you are paying for it.
I like the Chevy body
DOes anybody know is that as heavy duty as the proline ford 250 body????
This look like an excellent race setup. The best way to know if you need anything else, it's to run/race the truck. Maybe just add a good tuned pipe.
Cotharyus
01-21-2005, 09:27 PM
jamminjay - two things you can do to make it track worthy. 1) a good tuned pipe. Sorry, but the Associated pipes for this truck are terrible. Almost any reputable manufacturer of pipes for buggies and MT's has a better pipe. 2) And don't laugh at me, in fact, ask Slaf, cause I told him the same thing, and he tried it anyhow - get rid of those 40 series unless they're the new 23mm hex size, they'll bend/break on the track under racing/jumping conditions. The regular T-maxx velocity rims with bowties is what you want.
MikeWz
01-21-2005, 10:13 PM
Jay - That's a great truck...and if you're racing there's a lotta stuff you can actually do without...like ALL of the GPM gear other than the brake disc. The knuckles just add weight, and GPM's aluminum is of cheap quailty and will probably bend, so just mount up some stockers. And the fiber pads are terrible. I put them on mine, and actually had to adjust the brakes to be more sensative, and still couldn't get them up like they used to be. Other than that it's really sweet.
Jumbo Kongs are a waste of money...unless you don't mind going to chase your truck to flip it back over. They're also REALLY heavy. And for about $100 with rims, not so much
fuzzy2133
01-21-2005, 10:43 PM
Fuzz -> I need a .12, .15 or .18 with pull start ad long threaded crankshaft
I can also trade for some new MGT parts...(diff, chassis, body, etc...)
I have a .12 and .15 however they are both short cranks.
JamminJay
01-21-2005, 10:49 PM
jamminjay - two things you can do to make it track worthy. 1) a good tuned pipe. Sorry, but the Associated pipes for this truck are terrible. Almost any reputable manufacturer of pipes for buggies and MT's has a better pipe. 2) And don't laugh at me, in fact, ask Slaf, cause I told him the same thing, and he tried it anyhow - get rid of those 40 series unless they're the new 23mm hex size, they'll bend/break on the track under racing/jumping conditions. The regular T-maxx velocity rims with bowties is what you want.
How would a Jammin pipe work on this truck? Also, I have heard that about the 40's but i must say, alot of people run them at my local track and i have seen some hell-acious wrecks and noone has stripped any out yet that i know of... I have seen alot of knuckles break tho. :D
Monsterbrad
01-21-2005, 11:42 PM
I am not sure about that pipe!!!
I have the 40 series on my LSP and they are great for racing
MikeWz
01-22-2005, 06:10 AM
Jay- the 40 series tires won't strip out or anything, the walls will just bend. They're made for the T-maxx, which is considerably lighter than the MGT. Coth bent some, I bent some and Slaf bent some. Not cool.
As for the pipe, it may take some work to get it to fit right, but it should work. Any .21 pipe should work with the truck. Figure it'll give you about the same performance gain it gave you on any other truck/buggy you put it on (may differ a bit due to the engine). I hear they are decent pipes, but have never run one myself.
Cotharyus
01-22-2005, 08:06 AM
The jammin pipe should work fine. Apparenly they work fairly well, as they were used by several of the racers at the pro series nationals this year.
monstatruCkin
01-22-2005, 03:53 PM
jammin - if u wanna lowa it down more put rpm a-arms on their
SmokinJoe
01-22-2005, 06:34 PM
Does anyone know how well the standard Maxx size Pro-Line bodies fit the MGT. I custom paint bodies and I have a request for one but I'm not that familiar with the MGT. Any help would be appreciated!
Monsterbrad
01-22-2005, 07:47 PM
I know that my crowd pleazer for the revo was too small..
This truck takes a bigger body like the new crowd pleazer body 2.0 or the new chevy or ford bodies..
The stock body is pretty big about the same as the LST...
Cotharyus
01-22-2005, 07:50 PM
Maxx sized bodies look really strange on this truck. The CP 2.0, silverado, and H2 concept bodies work well on it. Somewhere there's a ford crew cab and 650 superduty body for it as well, but I haven't been able to find either of those of late.
Monsterbrad
01-22-2005, 07:57 PM
I like the crowd pleazer 2.0 its slick looking....
Mounted one on the LST and the MGT might get one also..
SmokinJoe
01-22-2005, 08:08 PM
Thanks for the help. I have 7 different Maxx size bodies on hand, but I guess I'll have to pick up a couple of the MGT/LST ones. Thanks again.
Monsterbrad
01-22-2005, 09:36 PM
Well I hate to do this but!!!
Is anybody interested in my truck???
Its Brand new never started
Stock MGT with no radio??????????????????????
$300.00 shipped never run just took it outa the box and sold the stock radio...
monstatruCkin
01-22-2005, 09:42 PM
monsterbrad- if u have anotha mgt if i were u id keep it 4 parts
Monsterbrad
01-22-2005, 09:45 PM
Come on guys someone has to want this truck.
300.00 shipped with in reason of course.
Brand new never started
email me or call me
814-450-6973
ExExCR@aol.com
has the blue body and flag
MikeWz
01-22-2005, 10:24 PM
jammin - if u wanna lowa it down more put rpm a-arms on their
Aye, you can do that. However, it messes up the suspension geometry completely. The truck will be lower, but they cause the truck to bottom out HARD (not just because they're lower to begin with). I would NOT recommend getting the RPM a-arms
monstatruCkin
01-22-2005, 10:31 PM
mikewz- your right about the rpm a-arms but if you do racin and small jumps with the right shock setup i think itll b fine but 4 bashin it will bottom out really hard.
im gettin jumbo kongs soon so im just gonna keep the rpm a-arms on their since the tires more than enough make up that lost ground clearance. time to beef up the drivetrain...
monstatruCkin
01-22-2005, 10:38 PM
anyone try hcr's a-arms and titanium chassis
MikeWz
01-23-2005, 12:13 AM
The thing is...when you're racing, not everything goes perfectly (unfortuantely), and the one thing you don't want to do is bottom out. With the RPM arms on there, if you don't hit the landing the right way..you WILL bottom out. When you bottom out your truck bounces and you have no control over which direction it goes.
The IMEX tires are pretty much a waste of money. They're about $100 for rims and tires (they will NOT fit on the stock rims, you do have to buy theirs). They race the COG which makes the truck MUCH more succeptable to roll-overs. They add a lot of weight which sucks for acceleration, top-end and jumping. They also look pretty silly. You'll need to get a different body to make it look nice.
Cotharyus
01-23-2005, 08:43 AM
Anything other than the stock A-Arms is a waste of money, and added weight. The stock A-arms held up for a whole season of racing - in fact allI broke on the suspension system from the time I bought the truck to now was two knuckles, and that was with me getting used to the truck (my first real MT), racing it for a whole season, and letting two totally non-R/C newbies play with it/bash it/jump it. If that's not tough enough, you need to get a larger scale.
As for the chasis, it's heavier than stock. And I'm not sure there's much improvement to be done on the stock chasis stregth wise.
Stay away from RPM A-Arms....They are waste of money no matter if you race or bash...
Maybe they can be only good for onroad racing...
I bought those a-arms and I went back to the stock ones.
MGT doesn't need that much to be a full racing machine :)
Monsterbrad
01-23-2005, 09:47 AM
well taking reverse out helps.
What aluminum shocks fit this truck???
Monsterbrad
01-23-2005, 09:49 AM
Also has anybody gone up against a Savage ?????
Thats what's makin me want to sell my truck I like the looks of the new 4.6 ss and I get to build it..
But any how as far as bashing MGT vs Savage??????????
Monsterbrad -> If you wanna go with Savage I can't stop you. But I was running Savage before and I don't regret at all my MGT. Savage is a tuff truck but it's harder to work on, self leaning tank, weak diff, high CG, not as racer as MGT, hard to access radio box.
But for bashing Savage is a really good truck. Beefy suspension parts, long shocks make this truck a really good truck for all terrain
Monsterbrad
01-23-2005, 10:04 AM
well thats what keeps me away from the savage is the plates and the crappy design for workin on it
You better still with your MGT :)
Monsterbrad
01-23-2005, 12:47 PM
well there will always be something new so thats how it's going to be.
I do like the MGT alot there are many features that I love its like the T-maxx on steroids!!!!!!!!!!
but then again the MGT is true 1/8 scale..
I know what you mean :) One RC is never enough...If I was not controling myself I will have more than 4 RCs...
I'd like to have T-Maxx, Savage, Revo, 1/8 Buggy, Nitro TC3 and more....
I'm not short on the budget but I recently discover that I prefer to have less truck and play more with them. I just bought an used HPI Nitro MT Racer and I don't know what to do with this truck...I'm still asking myself why did I buy this truck ! :)
Monsterbrad
01-23-2005, 01:31 PM
Anybody put a .28 in this truck yet????
monstatruCkin
01-23-2005, 02:32 PM
i decided to take the rpm arms off and put back the stockers big difference in droop and ground clearance.
monsterbrad- i asked that same question about the .28 in the mgt and sum-1 sed it isnt worth it and to go with a .26
monstatruCkin
01-23-2005, 02:42 PM
i wanna get a nice roll cage but i dont no which one to get. the rc solution cage is nice but it supposidly limits engine choices unless you modify it bcuz the engine head wont clear . weight isnt an issue i just bash
Cotharyus
01-23-2005, 03:35 PM
Savage Vs. MGT? Well, on the track, the MGT will run circles around the savage.
As for slaf's problem with controling the number of R/C's he has - I understand completely. I'd like to have an RC18T to go with my MGT, and I'd like to have the new TT buggy too. Of course, I've also got this insane lusting for one of those 5th scale gas burners too, but I can't decide if I want an onroad car that size or a monster truck. And since I can't make up my mind, I'd have to have both. Which isn't going to suit my wife at all. So I'll probly just get an rc18T, besides, it'll be the right size for my son to play with this coming spring and summer.....that doesn't mean that I won't end up with everything listed and more if I win the lottery! :)
fuzzy2133
01-23-2005, 03:57 PM
Controling the RC collection, oh yes I have that same problem. of course that is also why I am selling one to a coworker and possibly selling another two. then I might get either XTM's 1/7 scale buggy or a 1/5 scale buggy or get a metal lathe and a CNC mill to do my own RC cars. Coth now you did it, TT's new buggy would be cool too.
Chevy-SS
01-23-2005, 04:34 PM
Pic of my home-made MGT setup board:
http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/setup3.jpg
It seems to work pretty good, but I am just getting into it. There are a lot of angles to consider and it's tough to keep everything squared and true.
I am making this board for 2 reasons:
1) To verify the settings on my own truck, and,
2) To compare the MGT against others, like the LST (which I will mount on this board)
I have driven both the LST and the MGT and it seems to me that the LST turns a tighter radius than the MGT. This is especially apparent on a small, technical track. I raced a LST on a smaller track and he just ate me up in the tight corners.
It just happens that a friend of mine owns a LST, which I picked up today. I am gonna be real curious to compare the steering geometry of these two trucks. I should have initial results by the end of this week. Just eye-balling the LST, it appears that the wheels turn more than the MGT. But I will soon quantify that with test results. I will be curious to see if the LST simply turns the wheels more, or perhaps it has a different Ackerman setting. I am determined to find out.
Meanwhile, if anyone has special requests or suggestions as to how to make this board work better, please let me know. I am gonna post ALL of the results (here and on my web site), so hopefully there will be some good info for us racers.
monstatruCkin
01-23-2005, 05:44 PM
chevy-looks like a prety good setup system
as far as the gas 1/5 goes id get a fg mt-5 monster truck
Monsterbrad
01-23-2005, 08:08 PM
I don't mean to piss anybody off here but all I can say is if you want to really race buy the Hot Bodies LSP you will not believe it.
It will run circles around any monster truck.
I have one and know that it will.
I know its a truggy but still you can put big tires on it and race it in the MT class.
I have to say though the steering on the LST is much tighter cause I was very impressed with my LST's turning right off the bat..
Chevy -> I already seen this board somewhere....:) :) RC10GT_MGT ! Nice board !
Coth -> I bought a RC18T few months ago for my 17 months old boy :) .... That's what I told to my wife....It's for the kid :) Now I have to find a way to teach to my son how to say "brushless" :) :)
Monsterbrad
01-23-2005, 08:36 PM
slaf that's awesome
Chevy-SS
01-23-2005, 08:39 PM
Monsterbrad - I been lookin' at that exact truck. Depending on the rules this season, I might end up buying one. Hopefully, the truggies will be in their own class. I would really like to keep racing my MGT, but not if I have to compete against trucks like the LSP.
slaf - I am just copying a standard Hudy board, so yeah, you probably seen something like it before, no doubt. But I have not seen one for the MGT yet, and Hudy is not making one for the MGT.
Cotharyus
01-23-2005, 09:26 PM
Truggies are not monster trucks. They do not race in the monster truck class at my track for special events. The rest of the time, it's all for fun, and it's especially fun(ny) when I hand a truggy driver his ***** with my MGT. I've done it three times now, and I'm not talking about some kid with a new toy, I'm talking about an adult that races regularly.
Slaf - My son will be 3 in august, and he can say brushless, I'm working on "LiPo" with him now....
monstatruCkin
01-23-2005, 10:12 PM
how does the hot bodies .26 perform in the mgt that comes in the hot bodies lsp?? i think its like
$120 on towerhobbies
JamminJay
01-24-2005, 12:09 AM
Ok does anyone know if the wand to start the MGT works in a roto start? you may think this is a dumb question but its really not since my mgt wont be here until this week I dont have it in my hand to see. Also, if not, is there a rotostart back plate that will work on the stock .21? Thanx
MikeWz
01-24-2005, 04:49 AM
If you have a rotostart you might as well take it off and slap it on there and give it a shot. Everybody on here told my friend that his rotorstart wouldn't work on an Epic .18 and it works fine. There's only one way to find out. I think the shaft is a different size for the rotorstart so it prolly won't work. Nothing wrong with the Pull Start though. Mine always starts on like 2-3 pulls
Chevy-SS -> I just meant that I'M rc10gt_mgt on the other forum
JamminJay -> I doubt RotoStart will work on a MGT, rotation is not in the right direction. I think you'll have more success with the LST starter.
Coth -> Mine will be 2 in august...He's already a RC addict. Can't stop walking in the house with mine RC18T..Opps I mean his RC18T :)
JamminJay
01-24-2005, 06:19 AM
MikeWZ- Yea but I have no luck with pullstarts, and I don't have the roto start already, I just thought if it would work it would be easier lugging that lil hand held to the track rather than a drill.
Slaf- you say the LST wand huh? can anyone confirm that? I wonder if I Email AE they will tell me? I also heard the rotostart turned in the wrong directional, but needed to 2nd that opinion, (not a very reliable source) :D
I'm 99% sure of what I told you. If you get the LST starter get a second generation one with metal gears.
JamminJay
01-24-2005, 06:27 AM
OK thanx, I will look into it.... Also, this will work with the stock wand hole? or do I need the LST backplate as well? BTW, when I bust this thing up, can i come to you for a deal on parts Ha.
VWVR6
01-24-2005, 07:15 AM
why don't you just reverse the wires on the roto start so it turns the right direction. And then for the input shaft on the motor just dremel a notch like this (-) so the roto start will fit it. I started my truck with an 1/8 scale dogbone for a while using the same method.
Reversing wires is a good idea too !
monstatruCkin
01-24-2005, 01:07 PM
pullstart works fine for me. really dont want to caryy around a drill or somethin like the rotostarts that i dont need
Does anybody running Zombie Maxx tires ?
I just got mine, I have few dificulties to get them correctly on the rims.
One tire is 230g with foam insert. This will make my MGT a little bit heavier, but those tires are just for bashing.
Monsterbrad
01-24-2005, 08:17 PM
Some of these new tires are a pain in the butt to get mounted right.
have to just keep workin the foam till they are on the rims good then glue them..
I hate gluing tires... But it's all I have to do for the next 90 days...Until spring and warmer days...
monstatruCkin
01-24-2005, 08:19 PM
slaf- on page 15 of this forum there is a pic and some discussion of the zombie maxx tires. hope it helps
Keiger
01-24-2005, 08:34 PM
Was woundering if anyone else is running the team steering set up and are you still using the servo saver on the servo. Or can you get away with the one on the steering tube?
monstatruCkin
01-24-2005, 08:36 PM
keiger- i shood b getin the steerin kit in 2moro and it has a servo saver built into it so you do not need one on the servo.
Keiger
01-24-2005, 09:09 PM
keiger- i shood b getin the steerin kit in 2moro and it has a servo saver built into it so you do not need one on the servo.
I was woundering about that. I have been running with one, but the saver was doing its thing and not letting the wheels turn very well. I will loosen up the teem one a bit, I think I had it cranked down cuz I was useing the one on the servo. Thanks Keig
Also, If your handy this is what I did to mine. The new steering kits swing arm/rack is still to short. ON the right side it hits the diff. I ground mine out some but still would not make a sharp left turn. I got some aluim. of the same thickness and made (a hole new arm) it's about 1/4" longer on the the right side and drill the new hole for the steering arm now the thing turns form lock to lock. Works great. the Tap is 3mm x50.
MikeWz
01-25-2005, 12:04 AM
Slaf - I'm running the Zombie Maxx tires on my truck. I love them. They're heavier than the stockers??? Must be the foams or something. The tires are definitely smaller than the stockers, and that makes the sidewall smaller which = better handling. What exactly is wrong?
MikeWz -> I had some difficulties to sit the foam insert correctly in the tire. I let the foam inserts outside the tires for the night and they replaced them self in a more circular form (hope you understand what I mean !)
Zombie Maxx tires (272g with Clawz rim) are lighter than stock tires (344g with stock rim)
What air filter are you running guys ? I still have the stock engine + stock air filter but I'm thinking about the HPI High performance air filter...I used it on my Savage and it was a good air filter...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDUR2&P=ML
rcdan-o
01-25-2005, 10:56 AM
Anyone want to sell their stock pipe.......email dkg96@jasnetworks.net
Anyone want to sell their stock pipe.......email dkg96@jasnetworks.net
PM me, I have alot of MGT parts including FT Blue tuned pipe....
Cotharyus
01-25-2005, 01:48 PM
Slaf - I'm still running the stock filter. I don't think you're going to get significantly more flow out of anything else, and certainly not any more protection.
rcdan-o - I've got my stock pipe and header I'll let go of you can pm me too, and between slaf and myself, I'm sure we can get you a pipe.
monstatruCkin
01-25-2005, 02:59 PM
about the whole air filter thing the stock is the best. i have a motorsavers .21 offroad filter but it restricts airflow so i have to richen up abit
Monstatruckin -> If you had to richen your carb, is this not because there was more airflow ?
RCDAN -> Mine is blue :) hahahaha
Monsterbrad
01-25-2005, 08:32 PM
I like the motor saver air filters and have always used them.
I like the extra boot for the outside so that's its a three stage..
monstatruCkin
01-25-2005, 11:05 PM
monsterbrad- i have the 3 stage filter to.also i just got in the ft steerin kit! its awsum, but theres one problem it turns one way more than the other. i built it exactly right but the nut and the linkage rub against the gearbox itself, i think the rack is to short.
slaf- i dont no how to explain it exaxctly but i have to richen up the hsn a bit. it even says you might in the instructions
I know it's off topic but did you see in the last RC Driver...They dynoed a OS .18TZ(S)-T....2.27BHP @ 31761RPM and 84.58in-oz @24000RPM ? It's more HP than my stock engine ! :( :( :( It's alot of HP for a .18 engine....Hope OS will release a new big block for monter truck ! .26 CVRX sounds good ? :)
JamminJay
01-26-2005, 01:00 AM
Reversing wires is a good idea too !
Ok if I reverse the wires on a roto start, I have to reverse the wires on the motor right, or will reversing the positive and negative wires at the battery connector work? Thanx
Cotharyus
01-26-2005, 08:34 AM
Slaf - that's exactly what I've been talking about. OS is making so much power with those .18's, imaging what they could do with a .27 or .28? And something with OS reliablilty and smooth power band?
JamminJay -> I never did or see this modification but if you reverse the wire on the motor this should work.
Coth -> A REAL 2.6 HP with OS realibily, easy of tuning and great powerband :) I was thinking of changing my stock engine but I'll wait, just in case OS release an affordable big block like the CVR series.
Monsterbrad
01-26-2005, 07:06 PM
monsterbrad- i have the 3 stage filter to.also i just got in the ft steerin kit! its awsum, but theres one problem it turns one way more than the other. i built it exactly right but the nut and the linkage rub against the gearbox itself, i think the rack is to short.
slaf- i dont no how to explain it exaxctly but i have to richen up the hsn a bit. it even says you might in the instructions
I was going to get the FT steering kit till I read that one of you guys tried it and it does turn more one way.
I hate that........
I just don't like how the factory servo saver locks out my servo in one direction that ticks me off...
I wish GH ir somebody else would make a steering kit for this truck also!!!!!
monstatruCkin
01-26-2005, 07:45 PM
monsterbrad- gh does make a steerin kit for this truck.its $42 on tower. i just thought that the factory team would be the best one. i emailed ae about this problem and he replied . "Paul,
If the steering is hitting the diff housing it is not assembled correctly.
Make sure that your steering tie rods are equal in length. If they are
not, you will get unequal steering from left to right."
i couldnt bleve he sed that wen i specified that i went over it like 1million times!! its bs!!
Servo saver is integrated to the steering kit. It's the same kind of servo saver as used on the RC10GT, it's one of the best at least for me because you can adjust how the spring tension. I'll buy FT steering kit.
Monstatruckin -> I read at many places that even with the stock bellcrank, that the steering hits the diff...A little grinding should help. I don't have time but tomorrow morning I'll check to see if I have the same problem on my truck.
monstatruCkin
01-26-2005, 07:57 PM
slaf-thats why i like the ft steerin kit bcuz a saver is built in and u can take the stock saver off the servo.tell me how it goes with the stock steerin hittin the diff
Cotharyus
01-26-2005, 08:00 PM
I've seen more than one person that added onto thier FT steering kit to make it steer the same both directions. I personally don't see how the FT setup could be any lighter, and since I put bearings in my stock bellcrank, I don't think it's going to be any smoother, the only thing I see as an "advantage" is the built in servo saver, but since I run metal gear servos, and haven't had any trouble with the stock servo saver, I can't see any reason to "upgrade".
I added bearing to my bellcrank too but the reason that I'll buy the FT is that I can adjust the servo saver tension and the second reason is that I find the stock servo saver too soft...
fuzzy2133
01-26-2005, 10:31 PM
the stock servo saver is fine in most cases. I put a KO servo in my truck that is 180.5oz, 0.13 sec, @ 6volts. now the stock servo saver did not have enough spring tention to turn the wheels with out my KO over powering it. now the thing with the steering rack hitting the diff is new to me, when I installed it wast close but did not hit anything and cause more steering to one side than the other.
Monsterbrad
01-26-2005, 10:49 PM
Does the Golden Horizon steering kit hit??????
Does anybody know??????
Cotharyus
01-27-2005, 08:45 AM
Nope - we need a guinea pig Monsterbrad. Buy one and tell us! :P
monstatruCkin
01-27-2005, 01:30 PM
wow i feel so stupid. my steerin linkages were off alot.i didnt even think of checkin them b4 i put on the steerin kit. i adjusted the linkages to the same lenght put the ft steerin kit on so the bellcranks faced straight ahead and now im gettin equal steerin left and right with the ft steerin kit without doin any mods to it. im happy now, for a minute there i thought i wasted $70
There is not enough pics on the thread ....:) Here's a pic of my MGT wirh the new Zombie Maxx and Clawz rims...
monstatruCkin
01-27-2005, 01:41 PM
slaf- nice job - rims and tires realy stand out nice combo
i just cant wait till some of this snow clears up so i can use my truck again ive been gettin it ready for the past week. it looks like you have red springs all around how does it handle jumps and stuff. i just put on red/copper at each corner w/60w oil. neva tested it yet. also i bent the tabs all the way down and put the rpm arms back on i like them to much. ground clearance under front/rear skids is just shy of 4in.under the center it is 5in.
My current setup is 8 red springs and 50wt shock oil. I'll have to change this setup because
1) I'll stop racing at BMX track
2) Stopped using RPM A-Arms
3) I'll build my own track in my backyard
For all those reasons, I'll have to change the suspension setup
Here's a pic with the racing tires...
Saboteur
01-27-2005, 02:09 PM
slaf- How are the red springs on the rough stuff?
Sab -> It's hard to say cause of the rpm a-arms. I think for my next track and with stock a-arms they will be a little bit too hard but for bashing around they are just fine...for me :)
But R Saxton won big race with those 8 red springs....
Monsterbrad
01-27-2005, 06:12 PM
Seems to me that everybody has bow ties for racing I have them too!!
I like the new Losi tires they are awesome.
I have been wanting a set of those for a while just could not decide if I want them on the IMEX super off set wheels or RPM wheels like slaf.
Looks great
SLAF
monstatruCkin
01-27-2005, 08:36 PM
gettin my jumbo kongs in 2moro yay! i no most of u dont like this setup but i luv these tires. i dont race and dont care about weight . if i can find sum way 2 take pics and show my MONSTER i will post
Thanks :)
I like the Clawz rims .. They look great...Hope the center will not bend or break.
I like Bowties too...In fact I have Bowties on my MGT, my RC10GT and on my RC18T. I should have put some in my Civic :) :)
gettin my jumbo kongs in 2moro yay! i no most of u dont like this setup but i luv these tires. i dont race and dont care about weight . if i can find sum way 2 take pics and show my MONSTER i will post
As long as it still RC I don't care about the setup. Jumbo tires are realy big, they convert MGT into a real big "crush anything" truck. It's simply another vision of RC. Some like to race, some like to have the bigger monster truck, some keep the truck stock....
The most important point s that we all like RC :)
Saboteur
01-28-2005, 04:59 PM
Got my MGT arms today :)
Cotharyus
01-28-2005, 09:44 PM
Ok - just because I needed new wheel nuts on my MGT - coming soon, a weight comparison between aluminum, and stock. We'll also check out the difference in weight between the stock nuts used to hold on the mud guards, vs the aluminum version of those. I'll warn you in advance, weights will likely be in grains - yes, it's obscure unless you're into firearms, but I suspect it's all I can come up with to measure such a small difference in weight.
Monsterbrad
01-29-2005, 01:01 AM
Coth I hope that you are not this critical about weight in other aspects in your life..
You are crazy about that man ....
Its cool though keep us posted...
I put aluminum nuts on the revo and they were lighter you could tell holding them in your hand..
Cotharyus
01-29-2005, 08:56 AM
Actually, no I'm not anything like this critical about weight in other aspects of my life. My 1:1 truck is a fair amount heavier than it should be. Heck, I'm even a little heavier than I should be. But if you want to see someone obsessed with weight, you should see my brother about his mountain bikes. Lets just say I could buy a lot of MGT's for what he paid for his last frame.
Coth -> I have a complete set of stainless steel screws, I can weight some if you want...
monstatruCkin
01-29-2005, 12:45 PM
well got my tires in yesterday. my current setup is:
jumbo kongs w/sayville rims
rpm arms all aaround w/bent skid tabs
red/copper springs at each corner w/60w oil
ft steerin kit
gh coolin head
Cotharyus
01-29-2005, 03:06 PM
Nope - if I get aftermarket screws, they'll be Ti - thanks though Slaf;)
monstatruCkin
01-29-2005, 06:05 PM
should i glue the jumbo kongs to the rims because on the mounting instructions it says you shouldnt have to and when you put them on to use liquid soap which i did, and acoordin 2 the instruction it says the soap acts as a bond and cement aint needed its a very tight fit but i dont want any slippage. what should i do??
fuzzy2133
01-29-2005, 07:17 PM
you can give it a shot. if the side walls flex alot the tire could come off the rim during cornering and then you would want to use some glue to keep them on the rim.
monstatruCkin
01-29-2005, 08:58 PM
they hardly flex but im gonna glu them for extra security and rock crawlin. whats the best way to get them off if i have to once glued? boil them in water?
fuzzy2133
01-29-2005, 09:31 PM
yes boiling in water works. I have heard people claim baking them in a oven works as well.
monstatruCkin
01-29-2005, 09:35 PM
thanks for the info fuzzy2133
this may b a stupid question but its a general one for all nitro engines. can wd-40 be used instead of after-run oil??? accordin to traxxas you can. i have been wonderin about this for a while and its better priced to insted of $5 for a tiny bottle of after run
fuzzy2133
01-29-2005, 09:54 PM
IMO I would stay away from WD-40. I personaly think it is too thin to keep parts coated. I spent the $5 two years ago I have only used 3/4 of the bottle, you only need to use 3-5 drops. I got the panther ARO (after-run oil) and I think it is nothing more than Marvolus Mystry Oil (not positive on spelling) that you can buy off the shelf at a hardware store.
monstatruCkin
01-29-2005, 10:00 PM
fuzzy- some people say to use wd40 to spray out the nitro out of the engine and then use 3-5 drops of after run bcuz the wd40 is to thin. thanks again. also since im new to this whole forum thing what does imo mean?
fuzzy2133
01-29-2005, 10:17 PM
IMO = In My Opinion
what concerns me about WD-40 is last time I checked it contained a silicone lubricant. in the fuel there are castor and synthetic oils. if the WD-40 puddled in the crank case and then you were start the engine all 3 oils will mix and possibly coagulate, causing who knows what to happen in the long term. I may just being over cautious but I'd rather have only lubricants that will burn off on the inside of the engine.
There are who know's how many ways to do something as simple as this. also keep in mind it is all what you feel is the right thing that will make you comfortable.
monstatruCkin
01-29-2005, 10:20 PM
i no right sumthin so simple can b so mind bogglin lol
monstatruCkin
01-29-2005, 10:28 PM
my mgt will be out of service for awhile now until i get a new pullstart. i was havin so much fun with it with the new jumbo kongs and alll the snow around. my pullstrat bearin was all full of gas and other stuff that built up over 17 tanks. i took it off and when i went to take the bearing out the hole rope/wheel/recoil spring came with it. wow it was a mess dirt everywhere. anyways i cleaned it up and went to put everythin back together and the recoil spring got ruined. im just gonna get a new pullstart for $30. i would accept suggestions but the spring and string/handle went in the trash. no biggie just a pullstart. do you think i could just use the drill start id put it back together with no string or recoil spring and just put rtv sealant where the hole is?
fuzzy2133
01-29-2005, 10:34 PM
heck yea it will work. not a bad idea to seal where the cord goes through the housing either; good thinking.
MikeWz
01-29-2005, 11:15 PM
I tried boiling them once....bad idea. Water will get into the tires and will soak the foams. Wet foams are BAD. It breaks them down and stuff.
I've baked them ever since, and have never had a problem. Preheat oven to 350 and set them in there for 15mins. Push the tires off wearing oven mits so you don't hurt yourself
Cotharyus
01-30-2005, 10:14 AM
With reguards to WD-40 and ARO - WD-40 is something like 70% kerosene. I don't think it has any silicone in it. If you want ARO without the cost, just get a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. It's all I've ever used for ARO, and my engines stay in great shape for a long time, especially considering the abuse they take on the track.
fuzzy2133
01-30-2005, 11:38 AM
I was wrong about what wd-40 contains. on their web it says..
"What does WD-40 contain?
While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40 does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing agents."
still has to make me wonder what is in there though.
Cotharyus
01-30-2005, 02:24 PM
Get some kerosene. Note the smell that it makes. Pure a little on a concrete surface. Light it. Note the color of the flame. Now do the same thing with WD-40. They smell and burn too much alike for it to not be some form of kerosene, despite what they say. But it's a mute point, use MMO.
monstatruCkin
01-30-2005, 02:40 PM
thanks for the advice everyone on the aro. also i dont no if im usin the right silicone sealant. i have permatex high temp rtv silicone sealant that comes in an orange tube. it says it can handle up to 650f but it says it is not recommended where gas is. do i have the right stuff?
I know it's a little bit off topic but look at my RC18T twin motor....
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=1674136#post1674136
Monsterbrad
01-30-2005, 08:35 PM
Well I ahve been using Hobico after run for year and ran out recently.
Now i use Marvel mystery oil fuel treatment its the same thing as the oil and comes in smaller containers.
WD-40 I used that a couple times and if you listen closely to ttraxxas they tell you to only use that for a day or so of storage then use A good after run oil.
I would say that Marvel Mystory oil will be the best choice.
Also works awesome for sticky valves on a real engine :-)
WD40....Some people says it's safe, other say it's not. For the price of a bottle of real ARO I think you should not thank any chance with WD40. Keep your WD40 for cleaning plastic parts on your truck.
I only use ARO one time in a year when I store all my MGT and RC10GT or when I rebuild an engine. In fact I only use ARO when I know I'll be more than 7 days without running my trucks.
Cotharyus
01-31-2005, 03:25 PM
As promised:
5m locknuts that come on the truck (wheel nuts) weigh 16.2 grains
5m aluminum locknuts weigh 6.1 grains for a weight difference of 10.1 grains. That means that the four wheel nuts being converted from standard to aluminum totals almost exactly .1 ounce of weight removed - bearing in mind of course that this is also rotating *and* unsprung mass as well. It should result in fast acceleration, more responsive brakes, and slightly better handling...ahem..now, onto the 3mm nuts.
Stock: 13grains
FT: 4 grains
Meaning: The four nuts that hold the shocks on, and two locknuts on the stock steering belcrank that you can replace with these saves you a little more than an addition .1 ounce of weight, a fair amount of which is rather highly placed weight (look how high up the shocks mount). It may not be a ton of weight, but if you needed some new hardware anyhow, why not drop a little extra and save yourself some weight while you're at it?
Coth -> Did you buy the FT hexes ?
Saboteur
01-31-2005, 03:47 PM
I think ya put the MGT on an atkins diet :D
Cotharyus
01-31-2005, 04:58 PM
Slaf - yep. They're a good bit lighter than the stock hexes, as you might imagine. Actually a shade over .1 ounce each lighter. I suppose if you wanted I could get some grain measurements on those as well. It never occured to me until the other day to use my powder measuring scales weigh these smaller parts more accurately.
monstatruCkin
01-31-2005, 08:55 PM
coth- how are the ft hexes are they a good tight fit ?
Toycar
01-31-2005, 09:16 PM
I went to GH aluminum hexes for the T-maxx for the weight/rotational mass/unspring savings but since I've run a modded 26 engine the right rear has stripped out inside my proline velicity 6 40 series plastic wheel. The left front was showing rounded corners. I since went back to the factory ones.
monstatruCkin
01-31-2005, 09:22 PM
i want to upgrade to the ft hexes because on my jumbo kong sayville rims theres a lil play in the wheel hex area
Cotharyus
01-31-2005, 09:29 PM
To me the FT hexes seem pretty good. I'll just have to see how they hold up in the long run.
Monsterbrad
01-31-2005, 09:29 PM
How about prolines new 23mm hexes!!!!
I like those alot!!!
At least the factory ones are metal and not plastic like the LST...
badboy2
02-01-2005, 03:35 AM
anyone here have a mach 26 on ur mgt?did u use a different mounts?thanks
Cotharyus
02-01-2005, 08:19 AM
Monsterbrad - those 23mm hexes sure look good, but they'll weigh more, and I've not had a problem stripping out hexes or breaking hexes out of wheels - plus if I got them, then I'd have to get new wheels and tires for my truck for both racing and bashing unless I went back to the stock hexes for bashing or whatever....so, for right now, especially since last time I looked the 23mm's were still not in stock anywhere, I'll stick with the FT.
Monsterbrad
02-01-2005, 08:06 PM
I am in no hurry to change mine either!!!!
The stockers are steel and thats great..
I would like the new 23mm ones for my race truck though
I am looking more forward to watching my new xxx main 2 video i just bought :-)
monstatruCkin
02-02-2005, 04:58 PM
if i got th 23mm hexes i would get the new 23mm weld wheels with moab tires
Monsterbrad
02-02-2005, 05:15 PM
Anybody watch the XXX main 2 video????
I am not that impressed ok well there are a few good things like the house jump on good quality screen is awesome but other than that it ok...
Also I am beside myself here the sun has been out every day this week and in the lower 30's could be breakin in the new MGT
Damn work!!!!!!!!
Cotharyus
02-02-2005, 06:35 PM
Well, I've never seen any of the XXX main stuff. I do have just about all of the trilordy and slapmafro videos, and I have most of those burned to two DVD's so I can kick them on the 27" with my surround system - of course, since they aren't surround processed, the sound best in stereo, but there's something to be said for 110 watts to a set of 3 way 8 inch speakers backed up by a 3x12 slot loaded 120watt sub, as compared to watching them on the computer with 60x4 and 100watts to a dual 6.5" sub. My couch is more comfortable than my chair too. The problem is, thier videos are made for distribution over the net, and "high res" is 1200kbps - when I make videos, the version I'll be using to burn to DVD would be upwards of 5000kbps, which makes them hard to download, but that's why I'll use lower res for that. Maybe people that want high quality video of racing will buy DVD's from me huh? Nah, probly not.
I have alot of videos too, I should burn them on DVD :) One bad thing about video on the web is that most of the time, we hear some heavy metal stuff over the engine noise... Since my heavy metal period is far behind I don't really like this.
Now for my MGT, I will not buy any upgrade for sometime. I invested enough in this truck (my wife should be happy to read this !!!). I'll run the truck as he is now. I think other uphops are not neccessary.
I read on another forum that Thunder Tiger Europe has a TT .28 engine (Prototype) in some MGT's...Unfurtunately the site was not in english or french... I can't tell you more.
Monsterbrad
02-02-2005, 07:14 PM
Speaking of engine's I would really like a new 28 like I have said on the other forums but they are expensinve as heck...
Oh well
I would like it if OS would come out with a 28 to put in the mix of new big engines that are out there now for these big trucks..
Also I know that at least one of you has the OS 21 rg ......
How is this engine for power????
I have heard that its not that great but is stone cold reliable!
OS engines are all stone cold reliable (even if I'm not sure what does it mean !!!) and their powerband are excellent. They still tuned forever. They are all I'm expecting in a engine but they don't make any car/truck engine bigger than .21 :(
fuzzy2133
02-02-2005, 09:33 PM
not yet. the OS .18 blocks are pretty dang cool and powerful. maybe they will be reworking or updating the .21 RG next and then venture over into the larger than .21 area.
I don't know why OS is waiting to release a new BB engine...Like I said few post before...We all want a .28 CVR(P)-X :)
Cotharyus
02-02-2005, 10:17 PM
I run the RG. With a good pipe it puts out enough power to put a hurting on savages and such running .25's and .26's at the track. I don't feel like the RG really lacks any power to move the truck around unless you get it into grass or something, then the bigger engines shine through some.
Saboteur
02-03-2005, 03:33 PM
I don't feel like the RG really lacks any power to move the truck around unless you get it into grass or something, then the bigger engines shine through some.
Guess then I have to go with the Picco .26. :)
Monsterbrad
02-03-2005, 07:05 PM
Well a new 28 sounds good..
I am going to wait and see what happens as spring gets closer and somebody will release a new engine I am sure.
I would really like to see OS drop into the bigger block area but who knows!
The New Rossi and Rb 28's though look good
I am not sure about the sirio and the orion...
monstatruCkin
02-03-2005, 07:22 PM
i wouldnt invest in an engine over $200. the good choices i am goin to consider are the picco26 wasp26 wasp28 sh.28 i was runnin my mgt the otha day and the spur was super wobbly. i neva touched factory settings. its so wobbly you can feal it wanna bind wen it rolls. i tightened it all the way down and backed out 1/4 but still the same problem. i just ordered a kimbro 52t spur and should b gettin it 2moro. what could be the problem??slipper pegs??
Saboteur
02-03-2005, 11:36 PM
Ofna/Picco .26=$150 :)
Cotharyus
02-04-2005, 09:00 AM
monstetruckin - I would take the spur off and make sure your pegs are lined up. My spur has never wobbled except for the first time I changed spurs and it slipped, misaligning the pegs before I could get it tight.
Monsterbrad
02-04-2005, 09:52 PM
MGT is going to get broken in tomorrow!
I am so freakin excited!
Saboteur
02-04-2005, 10:35 PM
What engine are ya running?
Monsterbrad
02-04-2005, 11:26 PM
Completely stock.
Entire truck!
Saboteur
02-04-2005, 11:49 PM
Cool. Get rid of that GT pipe though. It's very loud and reduces performance. Even a sport .21 pipe will run better than it.
99SiR
02-05-2005, 02:01 AM
Quick question for all you knowlegable guys. I am looking to buy my first nitro rc truck and am torn between getting a monster GT and the revo. I know they are quite different (small vs big block) but after reading a whole lot of stuff, it seems like they are two of the best monsters you can currently buy. I am looking for a truck that can climb really well, jumps evenly, land well, can take on average size curbs, basically somethign for just driving around and conquring what is out there. However i want a truck that handles well and is reliable (key word!). Beucause it may only see the odd track day, i want something that i won't have to upgrade with lots aftermarket parts just to get it to an acceptable running level.
I know this is a biased question to ask in the MGT forum but i figured you guys know the vehicle the best and if it is more capable of tackling all of that stuff than the new revo is.
Any comparison unbiased info for a new guy is greatly appreciated!!
JamminJay
02-05-2005, 02:08 AM
Well, I will try to give you an unbiased answer, a I think both trucks are awesome. But, if these are the only two trucks you are considering, by your description of what you are looking for I would say go with the MGT. Its more uitable for bashing and climbing than the Revo. The Revo would be a better choice for a racer type truck. But dont get me wrong, for the size of the MGT its stock engine isn't no slouch. It moves the truck pretty good, even mine and I got 40 series tires on mine. Hope this helps.
99SiR
02-05-2005, 02:11 AM
jammin jay, thanks for the info. Is there another truck i am overlooking? Based on reviews it always seems to come down to the MGT verse the revo. They are quite different, but i guess compared to each other on the track more than anything. I have ruled out the savage and the MGT is already almost larger than i wanted to go with originally.
99SiR -> MGT is a really good truck, out of the box it's an excellent basher, just add some Bowties and this will be an excellent racer. The truck is very easy to work on. I raced/bashed mine and I just broke bumper and other minors parts (turnbuckle ends). The stock engine is reliable and perform well for bashing, depending of your race track, you can race with the stock engine easily. Stock tires are huge so for bashing it 's perfect. Out of the box the MGT jumps, lands and climbs very well. I suggest you to buy a humppack and a charger.
I can't talk about Revo cause I never drove one. But I don't like all the electronic features (ezstart and reverse).
Did you check the Savage ? He's not as race oriented than MGT and Revo but it's a very tuff truck.
JamminJay
02-05-2005, 02:42 AM
Yes I was gonna say the Savage is a great tough @zz truck too, and with a couple mods it can also be a decent racer, but the downfall on the Savage.... the configuration and layout. Its a real pain to work on. Other than that. Great truck.
COTH -> I'm curious...Did you weight your truck recently ?
badboy2
02-05-2005, 03:07 AM
mgt is the next to my savage in toughness and mgt is next to my dom in racing ...and imo id rather get a big block even if they say theres no difference i still like big blocks better than the small blocks like revo or tnx
Cotharyus
02-05-2005, 08:24 AM
If you were just racing, I'd say Revo, but since you're talking bashing and some racing, the MGT is just what you're looking for. Like Slaf said, good tough basher right out of the box, and all it needs to go racing is a set of bowties.
Slaf - I haven't weighed the truck recently. I'm starting to get irritated with Hardcore Racing. One of the sets of pillow balls I bought for it has one pillow ball in it that's still got mold lines on it, and is not machined out on the end for a hex key. I called them and they were very up front about telling me they would send me a return authorization, and I could send the parts back and they would replace them. However, it has been two and a half weeks since then, and I have not received the return authorization yet, and my calls to them to find out where it is have been unanswered and unreturned. And I was prepared to brag on how good they were about replacing things too.
nitrobug
02-05-2005, 12:03 PM
Have any of you guy's used the Integy msr5 shocks? And if so what weight oil do you recomend for general running. I have 40 in there know they say not to use more then 45, but the 40 is way to light, I just wanted to get some opinions before I put a heavier weight then recommended by Intigey. thanks
Saboteur
02-05-2005, 05:48 PM
So much for OS making a .21 engine. They decided to make a new OS .12 TZ! :D
monstatruCkin
02-05-2005, 06:39 PM
the os .21 v-spec looks interesting i think it has 2.5hp
Saboteur
02-05-2005, 06:53 PM
That's been out for a while actually. It makes close to 3hp on the dyno and basically has more low end than the WS7 II and a bit more top. Run with the OS pipe and your a weapon. :) Too bad they don't make a PS version for it, but that would reduce overall performance.
monstatruCkin
02-05-2005, 06:57 PM
why dont they come out with a .26 or somethin bcuz there engines r so reliable. there .21 engines put out as much hp as some .28! imagine... os.28 with 4.5hp that wood b sik!
In europe there is a TT.28 Prototype engine in the MTA4....
Monsterbrad
02-05-2005, 10:46 PM
Well here is my review of this truck!
I broke the engine in going the heat cycle method 5 tanks well maybe not quite but close.
Changed the plug and started bashing!
All I can say is
GLAD I SOLD THE REVO!
This truck is great the 645 steering servo works great with the stock steering stuff the truck was great only thing broken after many many crashes and some hard jumps and roll overs was a broken body post and the flag on the body well lets just say it's in the trash!
A+++
its going to go out again tomorrow after the races i will have more tomorrow.
Saboteur
02-05-2005, 11:57 PM
Awesome. Might first encounter went the same way. I thought it was great. I can only imagine how much faster the acceleration will be once I get the FOC. What plug are you using BTW? I'm still using the stock one.
jerseyevo
02-06-2005, 05:53 PM
i have done lots of research on this truck (2 months worth) i just orderd my monster gt from towerhobbies,i own a savage and love it but its difficult to work on because of the tvp chassis design.
paid 377.00 including shipping.
been looking for something different and i cant wait!
fezzy
02-06-2005, 06:41 PM
Just lurking on this section of the forum, I am a Revo owner and its good to see some genuine people conversing about the different trucks on the market, Without going off on one like a little kid. I love my Revo to bits, But the 2nd truck I'd have would easily be an MGT.
badboy2
02-06-2005, 07:20 PM
ur gonna love it ..jerseyevo where r u from?
Monsterbrad
02-06-2005, 08:45 PM
Well I had the truck out today after racing and I must say!
I love it
This thing is tough very tough !
Have any of you guys had problems with some clicking when landing a jump on the gas.
My LST did this cause the diff cases were broken.
I don't like that sound
its almost like a snapping sound
jerseyevo
02-06-2005, 10:24 PM
ur gonna love it ..jerseyevo where r u from?
monmouth county.
It's cool to see some new faces here... Welcome guys !
Cotharyus
02-07-2005, 08:17 AM
Monsterbrad - That clicking noise you're hearing is your rear diff. You're not supposed to land jumps on the gas. Loosen your slipper a little so you don't toast your ring gear, because the only way to get a ring gear is buy a the whole diff assembly for $40. So far it's the only downside I've found to this truck.
Greetings all!! Well I bought an MGT a couple of weeks ago after doing months of reserching and reading up on just about everytrhing on the market! I love my MGT it kicks a huge amount of arse!!!!! (so does this forum all you guys rawk!)
But i do have on question. My rear suspension is sticking like there is no rebound. I've been running in loose geavel and it's not really dusty or anything, jumping 1 to 2 ft small rock piles. If i push down on the rear of the truck it wont spring back, just sticks.
Any suggestions would really help! p.s. I keep it pretty clean!!
thanx, Nick
Greetings all!! Well I bought an MGT a couple of weeks ago after doing months of reserching and reading up on just about everytrhing on the market! I love my MGT it kicks a huge amount of arse!!!!! (so does this forum all you guys rawk!)
But i do have on question. My rear suspension is sticking like there is no rebound. I've been running in loose geavel and it's not really dusty or anything, jumping 1 to 2 ft small rock piles. If i push down on the rear of the truck it wont spring back, just sticks.
Any suggestions would really help! p.s. I keep it pretty clean!!
thanx, Nick
When you compress your rear suspension, shocks should at least spring back at 75% of full travel. Do you use shock spring spacers ? Does your spring holder are in place ? If you remove shocks, does your a-arms move freely ?
MikeWz
02-07-2005, 06:37 PM
You should take the rear shocks off the truck, that'll probably be the best way to tell. Like slaf said, check to make sure the A-arms aren't binding at all. If that's not the case, compress each of the four shocks with your hand. If they're still not working, it's probably time to rebuild them.
Monsterbrad
02-07-2005, 07:21 PM
Well after another bash session today in the snow and mud I can say that I am really really impressed with this truck!
It has a decent amount of power and is just a rock jumps well and is just fun to drive.
Its cool cause I wanted another savage just for a beater now I don't want one at all.
All this truck needs is a new engine like the Mach 26 will do and its set.
Not to talk the stocker down it just does not have the hit that the larger engines do.
The one thing I do love is the gas tank its great not to worry when the truck flips over just go get it don't have to haul azz.
Has anybody had problems with the stock engine boggin a little when you hold steady throttle for a bit then smash it.??????????
Mine is doing that but when you jam on it all the time it runs awesome for a 21 nice take off and just has a nice amount of power!
I never drove a MGT with a bigger engine than the stock TT .21 but I think it's like comparing a Ford Mustang with a V6 to a Mustang with a V8 engine...
Monsterbrad -> Your bogging problem must be a carb settings...A little bit too rich.
I figured my suspension problem out. Just some nasty dirt on the bottom of the rear a- arm where it hinges. Thanks for the help though!!! A little WD 40 and it's good to go!
\m/ Nick
Monsterbrad
02-08-2005, 06:08 PM
yeah thats what I figured or the pipe causes that a little not sure yet.
But the weather is back to **** so it will have to wait for a while again now.
Oh well steering mod I think is the next thing them mabe some new tires these stockers are not that great.
I was thinking some stock HPI savage ones actually
KYBOWTIE
02-08-2005, 06:34 PM
Sabu, you should try using Dow 557 Dry Lube instead of the WD40. The dry lube will not attract dirt like the WD40 does. It can be purchased at Mcmaster.
Monsterbrad
02-08-2005, 08:53 PM
Anybody try thicker shock oil and stock springs?
Just curious.
Also how about the GH steering kit?
99SiR
02-09-2005, 01:09 AM
Well i'm on page 26 out of 50, but i noticed you guys were having some trouble with bottoming out. Is this common for MT's like the savage and revo? I thought i've seen a truck dropped from 5 feet before and didn't seem to bottom out (although i have no idea which truck this is). As well has anyone has experience with running these int he snow? How do they run and how do the engines run in -10 to -20 C?
Cotharyus
02-09-2005, 08:24 AM
99SiR - The problem that people were having with these trucks bottoming out uncontrolably was because of a suspension geometery change resulting from installing the RPM suspension arms. With the stock arms, there are enough spring weight choices to keep the truck from bottoming out in all but the most violent of landings, in which case the truck bottoming out is a *good* thing, as it will prevent damage to parts of the truck that aren't as strong as the skids.
I've run my truck in the snow, but I doubt it was -10C outside when I did it. They run fine, just spray it down with wd40 when you're done to get the water off of it. As far as running when its really cold out, just keep in mind you need to *richen* then engine to keep the mixture right, not lean it out to get the temp up. If the engine needs help reaching operating temperature, put some aluminum foil around the heatsink head on the engine. If possible start the engine someplace warmer, then take it outside, if that's not possible, heat the engine with a hairdryer before taking it out and starting it. This should help prolong the life of your engine. Otherwise you should be fine.
99Sir ->
I think you read me bottoming out problems...Like Coth said, I had those problem because I was running RPM A-Arms. I switched to the stock a-arms and I don't have any bottoming out problem.
For running your MGT outside, there is no problem. Set your carb a little bit richer, put some aluminum foil arond few head fins to keep running temps around 240F. Protect all your servos and put some tape in your windshield hole if you have one. If your truck was inside your house, you don't really need to warm your engine with a hair dryer for the firts time you start it. On the opposite, if you leave your truck outside without running, you should warm your engine. Pay attention to your batteries life, cold temp will discharge them quicker.
I assume you are in Canada because your temperature was in C.
Cotharyus
02-09-2005, 02:45 PM
Since I posted a bit of a rant a few pages back about a problem I was experiencing getting getting my hands on some replacement parts from hardcore due to my having recieved a defective part, I'll post this update here - recap:
Three weeks ago, I called Hardcore. I had ordered pillowballs for my MGT and recieved them, but one of the 8 I recieved was unfinished - the end of it had not been machined out for inserting a hex driver. They told me they were going to send a pickup tag to me, and I should have it within a week. I gave it two weeks and started trying to call them back without much luck. Irritation ensued.
Cut to today - I've just gotten off the phone with Hardcore. They are as confused as I am about why I haven't got the pickup tag. I was placed on hold for a minute while addresses, part numbers, and probly several other things were checked, and when they got back on the line, I was told there was a new pillowball in the mail to me as of 10 seconds ago, and not to worry about the old one, and sorry for the delay. Despite the fumbling of my messages inquiring as to the whereabouts of my pickup tag, overall I have to Hardcore a "Bravo" on handling this one. It looks like the USPS probly dropped the ball on the pickup tag, so Hardcore went above and beyond to set things right.
Monsterbrad
02-09-2005, 05:14 PM
anybody try thicker shock oil with the stock springs???
Cotharyus
02-09-2005, 05:20 PM
Monsterbrad - what are you trying to accomplish? Thicker shock oil with the stock springs would give the truck a tighter feel, but still plush suspension. Are you trying to work out a problem? Tell us what the problem is. Frankly, I didn't run the truck very much with stock springs, because I needed stiffer suspension for racing.
monstatruCkin
02-09-2005, 07:56 PM
i run coper in bak and red up front w/60w all around i want wheelies! it is stiff and onroad it is wobbly w/stok tires but i have alot of preload spacers to keep truck high up. i want sum gpm sway bars
Terry
02-10-2005, 12:19 AM
I just got my MGT and want to get some suggestions. I am considering some Integy threaded shocks, anybody have any of these, can you put the associated springs on them?
Also, I haven't fired it up yet but am thinking about putting a bigger engine in like a wasp 28 or mach 26, not sure though, how is the power from the stock engine?
I'll tell you, I have or have had the following: maxx2.5, Titan, Savage and LST and I am more impressed with the MGT than any of the others, this is unbelievable out of the box (I got it for 345 shipped to my door :) .
Saboteur
02-10-2005, 01:19 AM
Sweet. I only payed $5 more than you did at my LHS. :)
Monsterbrad
02-10-2005, 08:33 PM
Terry I where did you get that deal from?????????????
As far as you having the LST Savage and that and now the MGT I have had the REvo and the ther 2 sold the revo to get this truck and I think so far that this truck is the best one.
I like it a ton the only thing I am not impressed with is the steering bushings and the super loud pipe which does not bother me that much at all.
The stock radio is not that great but its not that bad either.
Any way I have punded the crap outa this truck so far and its been great.
I like it much better than the savage and way way better than the revo the LST is still my favorite but the MGT takes a very very close second.
THe MGT I will do stuff with that the LST I know ould break though.
This is a great truck right outa the box though should have just bought one a while ago I just thought it was ugly and the .21 engine would not be enough to make it fun let me tell ya I was wrong!!!!!!!
jerseyevo
02-10-2005, 08:36 PM
i just got mine at tower hobbies for 377.00 with shipping included.
that included the 30.00 website coupon.
i like this truck a whole lot better than my savage and much easier to work on too.
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