Team Associated Monster GT V2.0

[Cotharyus]

You know, you can replace the bushings in the steering bellcrank with bearings. I'd had mine less than a week when I did that. I think I used clutch bearings I had laying around for the HPI NitroMT I was getting ready to sell....which would make them something like a 8x5....but don't quote me on that.

[jerseyevo]

i was going to do that also, but the 4 white plastic bushings have a lip on each side of them and the clutchbell bearings are flat so i was hesitant of installing them because of binding.
but i guess you can shim them with glowplug washers.

[Terry]

Monsterbrad, I found it advertised on ebay, called the guy up and checked if the ad was for real and ordered it. He doesn't have anymore listed on there, but if see them come again I will post so others can see.
I just ordered the Peak Diablo .28 for my mgt , I am going to sell the stock engine before I even start it. I think the diablo should give me more than enough power, I am going to set it up with the stock gearing and see how it goes. I am also going to put a stock LST pipe on it, it seems like a good pipe and works well with the mach engine so I'm hoping it works well with the new engine.
My lst hasn't been run much lately, I broke a few too many arms and got a little fed up with it, when it warms up here it will go back out....

[Toycar]

When I got my mgt in 2003 I replaced the stock engine right away without running it thinking it wasn't going to be enough power. I was sorrowly mistaken and to make things worse I sold the engine complete with filter and drill start shaft for $80 cdn. The stock engine is easy to/holds a tune and more than powerful enough. It may not have the punch of a picco/wasp26 but for racing the tt.21 is better due to its progressive powerband. Many top rank racers win with the stock tt.21 engine.

If I were you I'd keep the tt.21 engine in case you have problems with your diabo 28. The 28 going to suck gas like anything where as you'll probably get 5 min more on a tank of gas with the tt.21. less than 10 min/tank with the 28.

[Monsterbrad]

I have to say that I am impressed with the stock engine too.
It does hold a tune well and seems to have a good amount of power.
It will pull the wheels in certian areas but its a great engine for a rtr even if it is a .21.
I like it.
I am going to run the **** outa it too :-) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Cotharyus]

jerseyevo - the clutch bearings I used were flanged, they were perfect fits.

Terry - You've made two mistakes - the TT21 is a much better engine than the peak. Everyone I've talked to says that engine is virtually untunable.

[jimbonj]

i was going to do that also, but the 4 white plastic bushings have a lip on each side of them and the clutchbell bearings are flat so i was hesitant of installing them because of binding.
but i guess you can shim them with glowplug washers.


The bearings are 5X10 and you can use these washers for shims:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJJ88&P=7

[JamminJay]

anyone run the RPM arm / knuckle combo(with the bigger bearings) and what do you think of it?

[jerseyevo]

The bearings are 5X10 and you can use these washers for shims:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJJ88&P=7
thanks guys i will give it a shot.

[jerseyevo]

well i got it to work with the clutchbell shims.

[VMach]

oops wrong thread

[Monsterbrad]

Steering is the only thing on this truck I see as a pain.
But it works well for now just have to get some bearings!

[Saboteur]

Wow. I didn't know that the stock steering has bushings. Guess I'll get those for an upgrade as well as the FOC.

[nitrobug]

Hey guy's is that the stock plastic bellcranks you are talking about with changing to bearings? And is that 5X10 flanged? thanks

[Monsterbrad]

I am going to say that the bearings are not flanged!
i am not sure though as I have not taken the truck apart yet!
But I am going to very soon the steering needs up grading the heavy pounding that I have put on it is starting to wear the steering already.

[jerseyevo]

i did not use flanged bearings i used standard clutchbell bearings with clutchbell shims,
yes with the stock plastic bellcrank.

[Chevy-SS]

Hey guys, I spent a LOT of time checking out steering mods, steering alignments and different tires for the Monster GT. I put it all on a web page which should help anyone get the maximum steering out of their MGT. This info will also help with the problem of unequal steering.

http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/maxsteering.htm

There's the link. Hope it helps somebody out.

[Monsterbrad]

Chevy ss
Thats cool man
That is very helpfull as the steering on this truck is not that sharp but I don't have a problem with it bashing it while I can see runnig it on the track would be a little bit tough.
I am using the 645 hitec servo and it seems to work well for what i am doing with the truck.
Bearings are always a huge help and my truck seems to be set up pretty good from the factory as far as the steering goes.
They could include bearings that would be cool!

[jerseyevo]

thats an awesome site chevy ss!
i am already a member and received a wealth of info.

[Skandranon]

Hey guys been gone for a couple of months as it been too cold to even think about running. The snow isnt even my problem, I am just a freeze baby! The rc bug is upon me again! Just spent a very long time catching up on my reading :D My buddy is getting a LST we cannt wait to get them out side by side! I am a bit concerned that the LST wont be as tough at the MGT. However he did not want the same exact truck and of out our choices I think those are the best two.

I am going to be getting a new pipe for my mgt before I run this year. I am pretty much sold on the fantom dual camber from you guys. I am a little confused on the whole header issue though. I think I read that some of you moded the stock header to make it fit. Not sure how this works as the stock pipe is in the rear and the fantom is mounted on the side? I would rather just but the right parts and bolt them on honestly. I was looking at stormer for the right listing and not sure I found it. Can some one give me a link to the dual chamber please? (I know I asked this once last year, but lost my favroites when I reformated) Can I get the header I need there as well?


I run the RG. With a good pipe it puts out enough power to put a hurting on savages and such running .25's and .26's at the track. I don't feel like the RG really lacks any power to move the truck around unless you get it into grass or something, then the bigger engines shine through some.

I only bash coth and have not done most of the things you have to make your truck lighter. I run alot in the grass. With this in mind do you still think the OS .21 is a better engine than the stocker?

Slaf how are those claws holding up? I think they look sweet with the zombie max! Did you get a good deal on the set? Where?

Sorry for the long post, glad to be back :cool:

[Cotharyus]

Skan - there's no doubt in my mind the RG is better than the stocker. That said if your buddy has an LST , you'll probly want a bigger engine so you can step the gearing up a little and keep up with him - the LST is really fast in a straight line.

You can get the Fantom pipe at www.stormerracing.com I modded the Team Associated *side* mount header to work with the Fantom pipe. It *will* work stock, but you will want to cut some off of the header to get the most power out of your pipe - it's not hard, just play with it a little bit. I think I cut something like 1/2 inch off, but I'm sure there's a post somewhere in this thread with the exact amount I cut.

[Monsterbrad]

I kinda like the stock pipe cause it keeps all the crap off the side of the truck.
Also as far as the LST vs MGT if you guys are bashing I will be surprised if the LST can take you I have both truck and I can say fora fact that the LST will not take as much as the MGT will.
THis truck is tough really tough.
Love it for that!!!
The LST is just a bit faster off the line but they are kinda close but the Mach in this truck will wake it up more than the 21 rg will.
The 21 rg is a great engine from what i have heard but it does not make the power that the Mach does and the Mach is cheap also and has alot of power it moves the LST and makes my hot bodies LSP move out too.
I will try the Mach in my MGT when the stocker wears out till then its going to be stock and i am going to pound the crap outa it.

[Skandranon]

Coth - so the only header you can get is that one? Ok, I guess I can hack saw it. I wouldnt mind a bigger engine but I dont want an on off engine.

Monsterbad - I have never seen a LST run yet. Isnt the mach a .27 or something like that? How much do they cost? How much faster does the bigger engine eat gas?

Will the fantom .21 pipe I work properly on that engine?

[MikeWz]

Skan - If you're looking at new engines, and you're going to get something bigger than a .21, you should check out the Fantom FR-27. It's an awesome engine, that apprently doesn't have the tuning issues of other trucks. I've seen one run in person, but never had the chance to mess with it, just a local guy who was running it that's all. For a .27...it screams on the top. They are also super reliable engines. I've always compared value, reliability and power to the better OS engines. For $200 with a Pull-start, you can't go wrong.

Also, when it comes to cutting your header for power, it's going to be different for different kinds of engines. You'll just have to cut a little bit off at a time and see what happens

[Saboteur]

[QUOTE=Monsterbrad]I kinda like the stock pipe cause it keeps all the crap off the side of the truck.
QUOTE]

Simple fix. For the RE setup on the side, point the stinger down through the chassis hole and use the deflector. ;)

[Monsterbrad]

Even with the deflector the oil will still get all over the arm in the rear.
I will just keep the stock pipe for now its cool.
Also has anybody had to replace any tranny gears or have any problems with the tranny?

[Saboteur]

No it won't. It's long enough and sprays the fumes all over the terrain. I don't get anything on my rear arms.

[Cotharyus]

*manical laugh* Oil!?!? On your truck??!? You're not leaning it out enough!! Get raceblend fuel and crank down on that high end needle!! Muhuhahah! (ok, don't do this. It's just bad advice....but it *was* funny..)

[Terry]

Everybody has an opinion.... I already have one of these engines and so do some of my friends, no problems, plenty of power, no mistake made.

Skandranon, the fantom pipe will work with it, nice pipe.

[Cotharyus]

I got the pillowball in from Hardcore. The truck is together and waiting for some decent track weather. Weight? 9.6 lbs.

[Monsterbrad]

I am just to happy with the way the truck runs stock for bashing to mess with it!
Oh well

[fuzzy2133]

Coth - how close are you to a stock T-maxx weight? your truck has got to fly by now.

[Cotharyus]

I don't know - what's a stock T-Maxx weigh? My MGT would fly before. I'm hoping that now it'll handle as well as fly. And maybe fly a little better. I do have some concern that the back of the truck weighs a little more than the front now, and I may have a poor flight attitude, but I'm reserving any real judgement on that until I can get the truck back on a track. If there is a weight problem, it's a cinch to fix, I just have to know about it;)

[Saboteur]

I'm waiting for the HOBBY show to probably get stuff for the MGT. :)

[Monsterbrad]

Well had the truck out today again and blew the steering saver apart then put a reguler heavy dity arm from Hitec on there.
Now this thing steers well!
No servo saver at all.
I know risky on the servo but I like to push things.
have to look into the new steering now I am thinking about the GH steering its a little cheaper than the factory team one but I am not sure if it will work as well
Anybody know?????
This truck is still impressing me just to much fun!

[Chevy-SS]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAKE0&P=7

There's a great servo saver and it's inexpensive too.

[Monsterbrad]

I like the direct drive thing like the FT steering saver.
I am just going to leave it for now I hope the hitec will hold up with no servo saver.
Also does anybody know if stock savage tires and wheels fit this truck?????

[fuzzy2133]

yes stock Savage and T-maxx wheels fit. the MGT uses the same hex size. you may want to go 1 to 2 teeth up on the Clutch bell or go down to the next spur gear size to compansate (sp) for the smaller diameter tires.

[Monsterbrad]

They are that much different in size?
that stinks

[fuzzy2133]

yes there is that much of a difference in size. it would not be as noticeable with the stock savage wheels but with the t-maxx wheels you will notice it.

[Saboteur]

Does anyone think if I got the Picco .26 in the MGT will it ruin the stock hubs? If I go with the prolines that means I've gotta get a whole new set of tires. Trying to spend my $$$ wisely at the show. Got a bit to sell actually.

[fuzzy2133]

if you mean the stock drive hex's then no, what you could damage is the hex in the wheels and that is all dependent on what rims you are running. the stock hex can spin in pro-lines 40 series rims, the regular size pro-line rims seem to do fine and I have heard that RPM rims do not have any problems. you would definitly not have any problem with the hex in aluminum rims though.

[Cotharyus]

Sabs - I think there are a lot of people running the .26 with stock hexes in trucks with this size hex. The key is keeping everything (wheel nuts) tight. With the MGT that means keep the washers on the wheels. I don't think you'll have any more trouble with striping out hubs with the .26 than the stock engine if you keep everything tight. Think about it - your stock engine can spin the wheels - so all a .26 is going to do is spin them harder - a power on landing might be a different story, but that's what a slipper is for right? In my opinion, most people that strip out hexes do it because they fail to tighten things properly.

[slaf]

What's up guys...??

Long time I didn't check the forum. I was busy with my web site...

[Saboteur]

Sounds good. Today I'm gonna head into the LHS to get some stuff. Thinking of waiting for the hobby show to get a new engine, but today gonna get my shipment for the R40, the factory manifold and try out the FOC.

[Monsterbrad]

Well I was checking the truck over last night and i discovered a broken drive pin in the CV joint.
Not sure how this happpened but it was broke where they grind it down for the flat.
Also I had the Proline 40 series wheels and I will not buy them again.
I bent the center of them and that stinks 110 bucks worth of wheels and I have talked to them and hope to get them replaced.
I like the RPM rims and the new 23mm ones but I am waiting to hear if the new rims are any good before investing in them!

[slaf]

Monterbrad -> I think you can send back the rims to Proline and they will replace them. I had the same issues with the same rims. I switched to normal Velocity rims and I have no more problem.

Some people said that the MGT is too heavy for those rims...They are made for the T-Maxx.

I'm building a site dedicated to the MGT and RC10GT. It's still under "heavy" contruction, I still have alot of traslation to do but you can check it -> http://pages.globetrotter.net/rc10gt/index.htm

[Cotharyus]

Yep. After we bent the first dozen sets of 40 series rims by running them on anything but T-Maxxes at the track, we stopped using them for anything else. I've consistantly tried to steer people away from them, and consistantly been told to bugger off, only to see the same people posting later that they bent the 40 series rims. I do *try* to help...

[slaf]

Yep. After we bent the first dozen sets of 40 series rims by running them on anything but T-Maxxes at the track, we stopped using them for anything else. I've consistantly tried to steer people away from them, and consistantly been told to bugger off, only to see the same people posting later that they bent the 40 series rims. I do *try* to help...


You're right Coth....I remember you warned me !

[fuzzy2133]

if someone was to make some aluminum 40 series rims that are some what light they might make a small fortune. anyone got a metal lathe I could borrow? :D

[Saboteur]

Well I just got the manifold for the MGT. Honestly my creation was a bit of work and kept slipping a bit.

[Saboteur]

closer shot.

[slaf]

Saboteur -> Here's how I installed the tuned pipe...I drilled a hole in the mudguard to help holding the pipe in place.

[Saboteur]

I originally did that, but didn't want to drill into the body. I said the hole is out the bottom of the chassis so might as well use it. Besides them guards are thick as hell. Gonna go for that Ofna/Picco maybe next weekend.

[jphebert]

I installed an Ofna Jammin JP-1. Haven't tried it out yet, but should be a good low-end pipe.

[Cotharyus]

fuzzy - aluminum wheels and light weight don't go together. Besides, with the new 23mm hex heavy duty wheels, it's supposed to be a mute point. We'll have to see.

[slaf]

JPHebert -> How does your engine perform ? Is this a relaible engine ??? Where's your rollbar ? :) And Where are you from ?

[jphebert]

JPHebert -> How does your engine perform ? Is this a relaible engine ??? Where's your rollbar ? :) And Where are you from ?
I have run 3 gallons of Backyard Basher fuel through my xtm 24.7 pro with the stock pipe and it runs great. Awesome power and is easily tuned. Painted a Crowd Pleazer body and had to remove the rollbar to cut it down so the body would fit better. I live in northern Maine in Madawaska, which is directly across the international bridge from Edmundston, NB which I think is about 2 hours drive from where you live in Rimouske Slaf.

[slaf]

JP -> To date, you are the nearest guy I met here :)

Does your XTM 24.7 Pro turn your MGT into a wheelie machine ? I'm thinking about changing my engine. I hesitate between XTM 247 Pro, Picco/Ofna 26 Outlaw or Mach 26.....

[Cotharyus]

Yea - I've got some questions about that 24.7 too - does it have a good midrange, or does it feel like an on off switch? Does the power come on in a controlable maner, or is it just grab a handful and pray?

[Saboteur]

Yes, I've heard about engines larger than .21s having a flat spot. Is this true about the Ofna/Picco .26? That's the only one I want right now. Then again I won't be racing or anything and it wouldnt matter, but would be nice to know.

[jerseyevo]

i have the picco/outlaw in my ofna ultra gtp and its a real winner,no problems with it i love it..just make sure you use the silver lowspeed needle and seal the backplate and carbneck.
im going to put it in my new mgt in the summer.

[MikeWz]

I'm pretty sure the engine in the GTP isn't the ofna/picca .26

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXESC2&P=ML

Is that the engine you have in it? I know for a fact that this engine has a flat spot. I got wheel time with this and with the Wasp .26 because I was thinking about getting either one of those. Both lack power in the middle. They punch hard low, and wind out fairly high, but the power curve is not smooth. The flat is right where you don't want it. I've also seen the SH.28 (I think that's what it was, might have been the diablo) and the wasp .28 and both had flat spots there too. No, it wasn't the tuning or the pipe. One guy was running a Jammin JP-2 and the other was an RB 086 pipe. I know it wasn't the tuning because you could hear/see that it was tuned correctly. I know I'm not the only one who can vouche for this.

I'm going with the Fantom FR-27 shortly because from what I've seen and heard, this engine is pretty awesome. It punches hardest in low-mid, and still pulls through from mid-high without flatting. It's still a BB engine, so it doesn't scream on top as much as a racing .21 will, but you still don't wind it out on an off-road track, so it's got more than enough room.

[JamminJay]

Selling my MGT if anyone knows anyone interested. please email me as the board isnt notifying me of posts.... JamminJay1722@aol.com I love this truck but tryin to race 3 vehicles every weekend is too much

[jphebert]

The powerband on the 24.7 pro is really smooth and controllable. On our clay track running an 18 tooth clutchbell, stock spur gear and maxx bowties, wheelies are not a problem. 220 -240 is the normal temp. range for this engine and it also provides plenty of torque out of corners which is what I need on our track.

[slaf]

From what I read in many RCCA articles. The XTM 24.7 keepd his setting and stay tuned like a OS engine and his operating temp is very low..220-230F. I guess the Pro version has the same feature...

[slaf]

Jammin -> What's you other vehicles ?? You should sell one of your other vehicle and keep your MGT :)

[jerseyevo]

I'm pretty sure the engine in the GTP isn't the ofna/picca .26

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXESC2&P=ML

Is that the engine you have in it? I know for a fact that this engine has a flat spot. I got wheel time with this and with the Wasp .26 because I was thinking about getting either one of those. Both lack power in the middle. They punch hard low, and wind out fairly high, but the power curve is not smooth. The flat is right where you don't want it. I've also seen the SH.28 (I think that's what it was, might have been the diablo) and the wasp .28 and both had flat spots there too. No, it wasn't the tuning or the pipe. One guy was running a Jammin JP-2 and the other was an RB 086 pipe. I know it wasn't the tuning because you could hear/see that it was tuned correctly. I know I'm not the only one who can vouche for this.

I'm going with the Fantom FR-27 shortly because from what I've seen and heard, this engine is pretty awesome. It punches hardest in low-mid, and still pulls through from mid-high without flatting. It's still a BB engine, so it doesn't scream on top as much as a racing .21 will, but you still don't wind it out on an off-road track, so it's got more than enough room.IT CAME WITH THE FORCE .25 I YANKED IT OUT AND INSTALLED THE OUTLAW WITH THE 2 SPEED TRANNY WITH 17/21 PINION SETUP.

[monstatruCkin]

which is better for low end power and winds out alot on the high end the sh.28 or the wasp 28

[monstatruCkin]

which aluminum clutch shoes should i use for the stok engine/clutch bell

[jerseyevo]

if i had to choose between the 2 i would go with the wasp (its the same engine as the fantom .27).
i say this because my nephew has the fantom .27 in his savage and he is very very happy with it.
i always use the ofna blue aluminum shoes and the black springs with my big blocks.
i personally love the picco/outlaw.26,i always stay with italian made engines over the japan or taiwan jobs.

[Saboteur]

I too am going with this Ofna/Picco .26s engine. :)

[monstatruCkin]

thanks
just to be sure are these the shoes you are talking about?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHWJ3&P=7

[jerseyevo]

this is a very temperamental engine but once you get used to it its a breeze.
first the backplate,carbneck and cinchbolt assembly must be sealed. and you must make very fine adjustments and you must use the silver low speed needle (7 turns out)this prevents the on/off switch like acceleration that most people have using the black low speed needle.
remember the silver low speed needle is the revised one and should be used not the black one.
the black needle is blunt tipped and the silver is tapered(the black needle is where you get your flatspot problems).
once you get these outlaws tuned correctly ill bet you will never go to anything else.

[Saboteur]

And just where is this black needle? I dunno anything about the Picco .26 being tempermental. From our experience (me and at the LHS) it's pretty easy.

[jerseyevo]

the early outlaws had the black low speed needle(on the side of the barrel) installed from the factory,they then later revised it to the new needle which is silver in color.
they also updated the carb cinchbolt or carb retainer hardware with o'rings on the shaft.
if you get one make sure it has these revised parts.
they are easy to tune just a tad more finicky is all.

[jerseyevo]

thanks
just to be sure are these the shoes you are talking about?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHWJ3&P=7
YES THAT IS THEM.

[slaf]

Anybody tried the MIP 2-N-1 clutch kit for the MGT ?

[jerseyevo]

have not heard anything about them.
me personally i dont think i would go to a wimpy 2 shoe clutch from a 3 shoe clutch.

[Saboteur]

Anyone try alum clutch shoes with their MT? LOL.

[Saboteur]

Actually..I'm kinda likin the looks of the Wasp. Sure would look awesome in my MGT. :D. SSTTYLLLEEEE!

[Monsterbrad]

I have tried aluminum shoes a couple times with no luck!
I found that the composit shoes from ofna or mugen are just as good and not nearly as hard on the clutch bell.
Aluminum ones tend to burr up alot and need a little work to keep them workin right so I will stick with the composits for now.
I have heard though that Mugen makes a killer set of aluminum shoes for the 1/8 scale line of things have not heard about anybody trying them on the MGT though.
I also like the italian engines but I do have to say the Mach 26 is a pretty peppy little mill for the money!

[MikeWz]

if i had to choose between the 2 i would go with the wasp (its the same engine as the fantom .27).
i say this because my nephew has the fantom .27 in his savage and he is very very happy with it.
i always use the ofna blue aluminum shoes and the black springs with my big blocks.
i personally love the picco/outlaw.26,i always stay with italian made engines over the japan or taiwan jobs.

Aren't wasp engines made by the same company that makes the ofna and picco engines. I'm pretty sure the Fantom engines aren't made by the same company as the WASP. Fantom engines are the higher end models of a japanese company that makes many other engines (Including SH, I believe)

[jerseyevo]

the .26 wasp,outlaw and werks are made by picco they are all identical internally,just cosmeticly different and they share the same carb also.
i beleive but not sure that the fantom.27 and wasp .28 are made by sh.
i never had any problems with aluminum shoes burring as long as you use the washers behind the shoes with the right springs.
i find that the composite shoes leave a greasy residue inside the clutchbell as they heat up.

[xxxkat]

I thought the Peak and Orion were made by the same company? I know the Peak motor is made in Japan(the .28) The Peak .28 runs real good,I'm not sure if the starting system that the GT uses will bolt up to the Peak motor but I know a roto start system will.The Peak .28 is stronger than the mach .26 for about $20 more,easy to tune and seems to be holding up well.On the GT is their any weak spots on this truck? I plan on racing one and did not want to read for 2 hrs. trying to find out what hop ups i should run.. :D thanks..

[jerseyevo]

i have learned that a better engine mount would help alot since the factory one is pretty weak.
nova rc products make a real nice one.

[Monsterbrad]

I flipped my truck so hard that it bent the head fins on the back side of the engine never moved the stock engine mounts it was a terrible crash sounded terrible and I thought for sure something had to have given it did not just flipped it back over and away it went.
This truck is tough!

[slaf]

I landed 12 ft on the engine. I lightly bent the top fin and the engine mount moved a little bit so the gear mesh was changed. Otherwise nothing too serious in the engine mount department !

[Monsterbrad]

I have a question??????
What is the best all around tire wheel combo out there for just bashing in your guys opinion for the MGT????????
I dis like the stockers !
All around basher tires and wheels??????????????

[Terry]

I thought the Peak and Orion were made by the same company? I know the Peak motor is made in Japan(the .28) The Peak .28 runs real good,I'm not sure if the starting system that the GT uses will bolt up to the Peak motor but I know a roto start system will.The Peak .28 is stronger than the mach .26 for about $20 more,easy to tune and seems to be holding up well.On the GT is their any weak spots on this truck? I plan on racing one and did not want to read for 2 hrs. trying to find out what hop ups i should run.. :D thanks..
xxxkat, which back plate do you use on the Peak .28, I have this engine and want to use my roto start on it. I agree, the engine is great, I have only upgraded the shocks to integys msr5 and the steering servo. I will be changing up the steering to the aluminum setup when I have some time to put it in. I only beat on my truck, no racing.

[xxxkat]

The back plate I used is for a Hot Bodies .25 off the Lightning Stadium Pro.

[slaf]

I have a question??????
What is the best all around tire wheel combo out there for just bashing in your guys opinion for the MGT????????
I dis like the stockers !
All around basher tires and wheels??????????????


I have Zombie Maxx tires with RPM Clawz wheels. They look nice and they are tough. Zombie tire are agressive, wirks well on grass, alsphalt, loose or packed dirt...

[Monsterbrad]

Zombie Maxx
they are losi tires correct!
Thats what I am going to get then.
And some new rpm wheels also.
I have imex super off set wheels but I am not sure what I am going to do with them cause they are kinda scary how far out they make the tires sit.
Kinda hard on the suspension!

[MikeWz]

I also run the Zombie Maxx Tires. I run them on the stock rims though, to keep some ground clearance, and help kill some of the sidewall. The tires are awesome. They wear very well, and they hook up real well on pretty much everything. I've yet to find a surface where I didn't like them. I'm sure some tires hook up better under other specific conditions (eg, bowties will hook up better on semi-packed dirt, but they wear faster and they're not so good on the real loose stuff). Go for the Zombie Maxx man, they're awesome

[Monsterbrad]

I ordered a pair today.
I am debating on what wheels I am going to put them on.
IMEX super wide off set or
RPM wheels clawz or something like that.
I want to be able to run them on all my monsters though.

[pudder]

Hi,

Can someone please tell me the difference in length between the front and rear turnbuckles.

Thanks.

[slaf]

Front Turnbuckle: 111mm (4.37")
Rear Turnbuckle: 127mm (5")

I got this on the tower site

[Cotharyus]

Pudder - I also posted the length out to .001" in your other thread. You should really only post questions like this to one place.

[slaf]

Coth -> Why your mesurment differ from mine ? Did you measure with ends ?

[xxxkat]

Terry,the part # for the roto start is 11316.It's from hot bodies,i think you need the one way also..It's part # 28441.

[Cotharyus]

slaf - I don't know. My measurements were taken with dial calipers with no ends on. One of my stock rear turnbuckles was bent at one point, and I straightened it - I can no longer tell which is which, so it's possible that could be part of the difference on the rear turnbuckle. It's also possible that someone did a little rounding when they measured the unit's at tower, or where ever tower got the numbers from. I promise my numbers are accurate for my turnbuckles, but that doesn't mean they'd come out just like that on a new set.

[jphebert]

Check this link for a good price on the SH .28 $120 plus shipping




http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_info.php?products_id=5132&osCsid=d247d18884b9ce002a3a4e201c321038

[MikeWz]

Guys, does anybody who's got an aftermarket engine have a starter shaft or something that I could have/buy or something???

[Monsterbrad]

what?

[Cotharyus]

Mike - You should have spoken up sooner, I only just threw my starter shaft away a couple of weeks ago.

[Saboteur]

Anyone think an OS .21RG will do fine in my MGT on my local offroad track here? Was looking at the Ofna Picco Comp since it has more top end, but eh. Dunno if I'll just run 8th buggy, MGT, or 10th nitro stadium truck. I already know about the prices and so on, but that's not the issue.

[MikeWz]

The starter shaft, for the pull start so you can use a drill. THe drill starter shaft

[slaf]

Mike -> Do you mean this -> http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5955629607

[MikeWz]

:( I don't have my truck up here with me at school, and I'm going home in two weeks for a week of break, so I just started really thinking about the truck again, and I realized I need the shaft. Oh well, I'll see if I can snag one on ebay. I just don't want to have to buy the whole P/S with it, because it's not worth me spending $20 just to get the shaft

Okay guys...so, figure you have $100 to spend on anything for the truck. Let's say that your truck is 100% stock (even though it's not), what would you spend the $100 on?

[slaf]

Here's some interessting hopups

-humppack
-Maxx size tires and wheels
-Tuned pipe
-FOC
-Factory shock bodies and caps
-Stronger steering servo
-Factory steering kit

Or you can get some spare parts like a-arms, front and rear bumpers, CVA pins, drive shaft pins, hingepins, ...

[Saboteur]

Slaf. Definately say the truck will benefit from the smaller tires? Think it will be faster with them and the FOC just using the stock engine and a .21 pipe? I'd like to experiment with that.

[slaf]

With smaller tires will have less sidewall flex. You'll need to gear up clutch bell about 2T. FOC will help to have better acceleration and reduce weight about 1/2 lbs.

Tires and FOC were my 2 first modification made to the truck.

[Cotharyus]

Sabs - Your MGT will certainly go around that track with an OS RG in it. The only question, really, is will it keep up. I have arrived at a point of difficulty here. My arch nemesis at the local track (the guy I *always* seem to finish second to unless he breaks) changed trucks on me over the winter. He went from a basicly stock T-Maxx (upgraded radio, steering servo, 40 series bow ties, .18CV-R) to a Revo (same upgrades only .18 TM engine). My MGT had a solid chance against his T-Maxx, but his Revo is blowing me away - and the reason? Well for the first time, I had my truck set up so well that I felt like it would have benifited from *more* engine. Yes, the RG is still a good engine. And if you elimiated this guy, and just ran my truck against all the rest of the MT's at my track, I'd likely win. However, now the only way to stay in competition is more engine.

Options:
Find a way to put a pullstart on an OS .21 V-Spec. ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPF0&P=0 )
XTM 24.7 Pro. ( http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/146030.asp )
Fantom .27 ( https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN01041 )

Discuss. Please try not to add options to this, as these three engines are what I consider "the best options" in that they all seem to lack the "midrange power hole" that most engines larger than .21 seem to display. So unless you can provide an option that also lacks the power hole, stick to whats there. I want to know pros and cons on these engines, what anyone who's using any of them thinks, and where one might go about having a pullstart put on the V-Spec.

[Cotharyus]

Sabs - Your MGT will certainly go around that track with an OS RG in it. The only question, really, is will it keep up. I have arrived at a point of difficulty here. My arch nemesis at the local track (the guy I *always* seem to finish second to unless he breaks) changed trucks on me over the winter. He went from a basicly stock T-Maxx (upgraded radio, steering servo, 40 series bow ties, .18CV-R) to a Revo (same upgrades only .18 TM engine). My MGT had a solid chance against his T-Maxx, but his Revo is blowing me away - and the reason? Well for the first time, I had my truck set up so well that I felt like it would have benifited from *more* engine. Yes, the RG is still a good engine. And if you elimiated this guy, and just ran my truck against all the rest of the MT's at my track, I'd likely win. However, now the only way to stay in competition is more engine.

Options:
Find a way to put a pullstart on an OS .21 V-Spec. ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPF0&P=0 )
XTM 24.7 Pro. ( http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/146030.asp )
Fantom .27 ( https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN01041 )

Discuss. Please try not to add options to this, as these three engines are what I consider "the best options" in that they all seem to lack the "midrange power hole" that most engines larger than .21 seem to display. So unless you can provide an option that also lacks the power hole, stick to whats there. I want to know pros and cons on these engines, what anyone who's using any of them thinks, and where one might go about having a pullstart put on the V-Spec.

[Cotharyus]

Sabs - Your MGT will certainly go around that track with an OS RG in it. The only question, really, is will it keep up. I have arrived at a point of difficulty here. My arch nemesis at the local track (the guy I *always* seem to finish second to unless he breaks) changed trucks on me over the winter. He went from a basicly stock T-Maxx (upgraded radio, steering servo, 40 series bow ties, .18CV-R) to a Revo (same upgrades only .18 TM engine). My MGT had a solid chance against his T-Maxx, but his Revo is blowing me away - and the reason? Well for the first time, I had my truck set up so well that I felt like it would have benifited from *more* engine. Yes, the RG is still a good engine. And if you elimiated this guy, and just ran my truck against all the rest of the MT's at my track, I'd likely win. However, now the only way to stay in competition is more engine.

Options:
Find a way to put a pullstart on an OS .21 V-Spec. ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPF0&P=0 )
XTM 24.7 Pro. ( http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/146030.asp )
Fantom .27 ( https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN01041 )

Discuss. Please try not to add options to this, as these three engines are what I consider "the best options" in that they all seem to lack the "midrange power hole" that most engines larger than .21 seem to display. So unless you can provide an option that also lacks the power hole, stick to whats there. I want to know pros and cons on these engines, what anyone who's using any of them thinks, and where one might go about having a pullstart put on the V-Spec.

[Cotharyus]

Sabs - Your MGT will certainly go around that track with an OS RG in it. The only question, really, is will it keep up. I have arrived at a point of difficulty here. My arch nemesis at the local track (the guy I *always* seem to finish second to unless he breaks) changed trucks on me over the winter. He went from a basicly stock T-Maxx (upgraded radio, steering servo, 40 series bow ties, .18CV-R) to a Revo (same upgrades only .18 TM engine). My MGT had a solid chance against his T-Maxx, but his Revo is blowing me away - and the reason? Well for the first time, I had my truck set up so well that I felt like it would have benifited from *more* engine. Yes, the RG is still a good engine. And if you elimiated this guy, and just ran my truck against all the rest of the MT's at my track, I'd likely win. However, now the only way to stay in competition is more engine.

Options:
Find a way to put a pullstart on an OS .21 V-Spec. ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPF0&P=0 )
XTM 24.7 Pro. ( http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/146030.asp )
Fantom .27 ( https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN01041 )

Discuss. Please try not to add options to this, as these three engines are what I consider "the best options" in that they all seem to lack the "midrange power hole" that most engines larger than .21 seem to display. So unless you can provide an option that also lacks the power hole, stick to whats there. I want to know pros and cons on these engines, what anyone who's using any of them thinks, and where one might go about having a pullstart put on the V-Spec.

[Saboteur]

Wow. Quad posts :)

Yeah I don't think the RG will be enough. I'll run something else and hear about what goes on in the MT class. May leave the MGT for messin around and race the ST or bug.

[Cotharyus]

Sabs - Your MGT will certainly go around that track with an OS RG in it. The only question, really, is will it keep up. I have arrived at a point of difficulty here. My arch nemesis at the local track (the guy I *always* seem to finish second to unless he breaks) changed trucks on me over the winter. He went from a basicly stock T-Maxx (upgraded radio, steering servo, 40 series bow ties, .18CV-R) to a Revo (same upgrades only .18 TM engine). My MGT had a solid chance against his T-Maxx, but his Revo is blowing me away - and the reason? Well for the first time, I had my truck set up so well that I felt like it would have benifited from *more* engine. Yes, the RG is still a good engine. And if you elimiated this guy, and just ran my truck against all the rest of the MT's at my track, I'd likely win. However, now the only way to stay in competition is more engine.

Options:
Find a way to put a pullstart on an OS .21 V-Spec. ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPF0&P=0 )
XTM 24.7 Pro. ( http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/146030.asp )
Fantom .27 ( https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN01041 )

Discuss. Please try not to add options to this, as these three engines are what I consider "the best options" in that they all seem to lack the "midrange power hole" that most engines larger than .21 seem to display. So unless you can provide an option that also lacks the power hole, stick to whats there. I want to know pros and cons on these engines, what anyone who's using any of them thinks, and where one might go about having a pullstart put on the V-Spec.

[Cotharyus]

Sabs - Your MGT will certainly go around that track with an OS RG in it. The only question, really, is will it keep up. I have arrived at a point of difficulty here. My arch nemesis at the local track (the guy I *always* seem to finish second to unless he breaks) changed trucks on me over the winter. He went from a basicly stock T-Maxx (upgraded radio, steering servo, 40 series bow ties, .18CV-R) to a Revo (same upgrades only .18 TM engine). My MGT had a solid chance against his T-Maxx, but his Revo is blowing me away - and the reason? Well for the first time, I had my truck set up so well that I felt like it would have benifited from *more* engine. Yes, the RG is still a good engine. And if you elimiated this guy, and just ran my truck against all the rest of the MT's at my track, I'd likely win. However, now the only way to stay in competition is more engine.

Options:
Find a way to put a pullstart on an OS .21 V-Spec. ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPF0&P=0 )
XTM 24.7 Pro. ( http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/146030.asp )
Fantom .27 ( https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN01041 )

Discuss. Please try not to add options to this, as these three engines are what I consider "the best options" in that they all seem to lack the "midrange power hole" that most engines larger than .21 seem to display. So unless you can provide an option that also lacks the power hole, stick to whats there. I want to know pros and cons on these engines, what anyone who's using any of them thinks, and where one might go about having a pullstart put on the V-Spec.

[MikeWz]

Coth - I know there was someplace to do it with the RB motors (don't remember where) but I don't know if you can do it with anything other than the RB motors. It'd have to be somebody who can make a longer crank specifically for the OS engine. Plus, it's almost $300 for the engine alone, so by the time you have them make one for you, it's going to be about $400 (going by the $100 increase they put on the RB engines) so it's not really worth it.

As for engines, with those 3 choices, I'd still recommend the Fantom. I just splurged today and bought one. Best .21+ engine I've seen run, and for $200 with a pull-start you CANNOT beat it. It's certainly got more power than the 24.7, and though it's a little more expensive it's still worth the extra power gain. Any Fantom engine I've run in the past (used two of their .12 engines when racing STs) have been just as reliable as OS engines, so I have no reason to think this one will be any different. I've certainly not heard any different. I've only heard one problem with the FR-27 and that was on these boards, and just over a week later apparently he had a new engine from the factory and no longer had issues (this was also an '04 model, and they've updated since). I'd rate their customer service up there with traxxas from experience. Great people. On top of all that...the engines just look hot :cool:

[Cotharyus]

Mike - did you get the .27 or the .21? When you get it, let me know what's up with it - I'd be looking at pulling something like an 18/49 gear on it at least.

Sorry about the 6x posting there guys - sometimes this web site (its the only board on that does it) will time out when I post to it, and when I check in another browser window, it doesn't show my post, so I resubmit it - then it'll suddenly pick everything up and I have multiple posts. I promise I don't mean to do that...

[MikeWz]

No worries, it does that to me too. I used to have like 3-4 posts that were identical because of it.

I snagged the .27 p/s. I figure it's the same price as the .21, only with more power, and I still don't have to worry about a flatspot, so I'm goin for it :cool:
I'm prolly gonna run an 18/50 combo on mine. We'll see how that works out and if I need to change it I will

[Saboteur]

LMK how it runs Mike. Maybe I'll be able to find it at the show.

[Cotharyus]

Yea - I defidently want a breakdown on how that engine works out for you Mike. Trying to beat this Revo this year is just going to up a whole new spin on things for me. If I get my speed up that much, I may have to look at going back to an 8 shock setup. Maybe I can do that and keep it under 10 lbs.

[Saboteur]

Yeah the MGT is in need to search of a Jenny Craig program. :D Fun truck, yet kinda sucks I need to put it through health plan. :rolleyes:

[MikeWz]

Well, There's no way I'm even going to have it before March 5th, so if the show is before that, it's gonna be a bit late. It's probable that I won't even be able to get it broken in right away. Not really sure when the show is, but I'll be sure to write up a review as soon as it's broken in and I get a chance to really rip it.

[slaf]

I'm curious to know how the new Nitro Star K4.6 perform ? 2.9HP @ 35000RPM 8 ports...

[Cotharyus]

Sabs - it actually doesn't cost as much as you'd think to really take some weight off of this truck. It's not that much heavier than any of the other bigblock trucks to start with. You just have to look for stuff that can be done away with, and figure out what you can do without.

Mike - that's cool man, whenever you get to it. I've got half the season to figure out what to do for an engine anyhow - my R/C budget is a little thin right now.

[Saboteur]

Yeah the show is week friday to sunday. I'm currently in the process of charging my battery packs. Dunno what car ill bring to the park. What do you guys think....R40 or MGT? Both are ready right now and I'm going in just a few mins. Hope the MGT doesn't get stuck in some parts though, but it's all fun N games.

[Monsterbrad]

I still might try the Mach 26 in this truck just for kicks!
I think it will be awesome with this engine in it!

[slaf]

Monster -> From what I heard on different forum, Mach 26 and Ofna/Picco 26 are two popular choices !

[Terry]

Terry,the part # for the roto start is 11316.It's from hot bodies,i think you need the one way also..It's part # 28441.

xxxkat, thanks for the information, before I read your post I ordered the hpi back plate for the Nitro Star BB/Force 21/25, hopefully this will work, if not I'll return it and get what you suggest. I went with the hpi because the plate looks like it matches with the pull start mount, worst case I just have to order a different one way.

[MikeWz]

Mach engines are nice. I'm pretty sure they're made by the same people who make the dynamite engines. I had a mach .15 in my ST and it was a nice engine. Not the most powerful engine (can't complain, it's a sport engine anyway) but really reliable. Lasted forever too

[slaf]

XTM 247 is an interessting engine too :)

[Monsterbrad]

just picked up a complete front diff up off ebay in the case for under 50 bucks.
They are expensive little ring and pinion gears for this truck!
Have to buy the entire diff then the ring gear seperately
that stinks
oh well this truck still is tough as nails

[Monsterbrad]

NO problems with this truck
Love it!
Has anybody heard about the heavy duty servo saver from kimborough?
I have one on the way for my truck!

[JamminJay]

Hey guys, I am selling my race ready MGT, so if your interested in a back up truck or know someone looking please let me know. Reason for selling: I need to pay a couple bills and get my 1/8th scale going, as well as buy spare stuff for my drake. I can't race in 3 classes on my income anyway, so I am gonna stick to stadium and 1/8 buggy. The MGT has just about every option on it to make it an awesome racer, and have all the parts to convert it back to a basher.

Will accept offers, and reasonable trades, such as a new or clean Adam Drake gen1, or decent charger system plus cash. LMK

post can be found here:
MGT for sale (http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=190203)

[Monsterbrad]

decisons decisions
I like this truck too much just start it beat it out away wet!
Love it!
Keep on truckin!

[slaf]

I'm tired of this loooonnnng and cold winter. Tomorrow I'll charge my humppack and protect my servos, put fresh fuel in the tank and I'll start my MGT and drive it in the snow....

I miss nitro smell :)

[Monsterbrad]

I hear ya
we got a break in the crap a few weeks ago now I broke in 2 engines and started bashing the hell outa the MGT!
It goes good in the snow
Have fun!

[kurrz]

do you have to change any thing to run in snow i live in maine and we'll have snow until april or may thanks

[jerseyevo]

i like to have my airfilter oiled good and wrap my servos in baloons is all.
just spray the truck down with wd40 or silicone oil when your done runnin it.

[slaf]

Yes...Put all servos into balloon, put aluminum foil around 2-3 head fin, richen the carb a little bit, cover all body holes and you are ready to run...

Unfortunately today it's very windy and cold. I'll have to wait another day :(

[Monsterbrad]

Well I don't run mine much under 30 degrees so I don't do any of that head covering thing with the aluminum foil.
I just run it and put it away after blowing the water off with the air compressor.
I wd-40 ir every once in a while.
The one thing that i did notice was the foams in the tires have messed up some how and the tires are outa balance now I think cause water got in them and it takes forever to dry the foams out.
Oh well I still beat them!
THe only damage so far is the cracked from bumper broke cv pin and blew up the steering servo.
Oh yeah the front diff ring and pinion are a little loud but thats from shear abuse landing bog jumps while on the gas hard!
has not let me down though as far as being not fixable yet.
Sweet!

[slaf]

Did you blow up your steering servo cause you were driving in snow/water ???

[Monsterbrad]

I have never had problems with water other than when my savage servo'd froze.
Na the servo saver blew up on me not the servo.
I have noticed though that stock servo's seem to lose power after a while.
The Hitec 645 seems pretty good but my LST z 590's seem to have lost power.
The MGT's are still too new to show wear yet!

[kurrz]

thanks for the replies im about to place my order anything i should order to start with or do i just need the ultimate combo and fuel also a tempgun i am new to nitro any input would br great

[MikeWz]

Monsterbrad - Plug the batter pack into the aux plug in the reciever. That gives more power all around for some reason.
Even if it's about 30 degrees be careful. Going from my engine, which runs 245 degrees in 80ish degree weather, if you're running in 30 degree weather you're talking the engine's running about 200 degrees. That's about 20 degrees under what you're average .12-.15 engine's normal operating temp is, and .21s and up like to run hotter. You don't want to run it too cool or there's going to be more pinch than there should 'cause premature wear.

[Monsterbrad]

I run it around 220 230 all the time.
Seems to run the best there.
It runs good hot also but I don't like to run them much over 250
I feel its to hard on the piston and sleeve!

[JamminJay]

MikeWz, did you still need that wand/shaft? lmk and what you wanna do about it.

[99SiR]

Well i finally got my MGT. I broke it in did a little bashing and it preformed pretty well. You would hear a "oooohhhhh" everytime it took a tumble from the people i was on vacation with, but nothing broke and it still kept running really good.

I just have one question about engine tunning, the engine shows a good trail of white/blue smoke out of it when its pinned and oil coming out of the exhaust so i am pretty sure i'm not running too lean, seems to preform really well all around. But i checked the temperature a couple times on the last couple of runs i did before i packed her up and headed back home and it was running around 260 ish. I put the temperature gauge almost touching the heat sync right above the slot where the glow plug goes in (basically the top of the heat sync) and that is what it was reading. The guys at the hobby shop I bought this from (fairly large and reputable place) recommended byrons race 20% nitro with 12% oil i belive.

I'm not sure if it was the fuel or not, but it was a fairly cool day out so i'm guessing something seems a little off. My truck is completely stock. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Monsterbrad]

That sounds good!
Just richen up the high end a little if you want.
Just don't go over 250 that often its hard on the engine.
make sure that you cut a hole in the windshield of the body that helps the cooling.
Enjoy
this is a cool truck!

[Saboteur]

Another thing is to ditch that stock pipe. Get a .21 pipe for that TT engine as it deserves one and you will be rewarded with even more performance. Maybe an xtra 2-4mph more. I noticed a lot more punch and top end with mine.

[Monsterbrad]

I was thinking about throwin my SUT pipe I have on this truck!
anybody know if this will help???????
its just a stock gs pipe that comes with the stock gs 25 engine! :)

[MikeWz]

Each engine (even by the same company) will run 'best' at different temperatures. As a general rule though, you wanna be over 200, but at or below like 270ish. If you're really pushing your engine hard in a race you're going to be upwards of 250.

Jay - I'd still like the starter shaft, yes. It's you call. Let me know how you want to work that.

[99SiR]

Thanks for the quick replys guys. I was told to tune high idle adjustment first and then the low adjsutment. Is there any trick to tuning low besides the 2-3 second shutoff rule after pinching the fuel line? It seems to have no problems or stuttering accelerating but takes at least 4-6 seconds to shut off after i pinch the fuel line.

I want too engine life out of the stock engine so should i be running a fuel with more oil in it? I read somewhere that the recommended is 16% and this stuff is only 12%. Will it do more harm than a regular fuel if i am running a decent tune? I could not bring my fuel with me and am not sure if the hobby shop in this town carries the same byrons race brand. Can anyone recommend some fuels that have worked well for them that i should be looking for when i get some mroe fuel at the lhs.

I remember reading about impoving steering by switching something to the aux spot on the rx but lost the post in the 56 pages you guys have here. I tried putting the steeting wire into the aux spot but the steering didn't work after than. Is the mod to put the battery cable into the aux spot on the rx? Some clarification would be appreciated!

[fuzzy2133]

the other way to tune the low speed needle is first get the engine to full operating temp, let the engine idle for 10-20 seconds and then accelerate hard, if the engine is slow off the line then clears up and takes off you can go an 1/8 turn leaner.

on the rx you want to move the battery plug to channel 4 that will get the servo's more power.

on the fuel as long as you are using a "good high quality fuel" the 12% oil will be fine since according to them they use "high grade oils and 12% is plenty". to tell you the truth I have not had any engines wear out sooner than they should by running the fuels that have 12% oil in them.

do not worrie about the whole page thing too much some days there are 1-2 pages added on in this thread and you would never know it.

[MikeWz]

99 - sounds like maybe your LSN is too lean. 260 isn't terrible, but it could certainly be lower. If you richen up your LSN just an 1/8th of a turn or so, that should help that. That'll send even more fresh fuel into the carb when you let off the gas, which helps to keep the engine cool

[JamminJay]

Jay - I'd still like the starter shaft, yes. It's you call. Let me know how you want to work that.

Pm me your address and I'll get it sent out soon....



If anyone is reading this that uses AOL please let me know if they are being notified by the board? I don't seem to get notified anymore for over a week its been like this. I asked Steve and he said it was my settings on aol. Altho I havent changed anything, on here or to aol, and I am the only user of my computer..... any ideas?

[slaf]

:( Yesterday it was too windy and cold to run my MGT :( :( I hate winter !!!! I should move where there is no snow !!!

[Cotharyus]

Yesterday - Season opener at the track. The "Pro" MT main (as opposed to novice) was actually rin in near dark conditions with no lights. I turned in a respectable 3rd after being nearly taken out on a jump in the opening lap. I was turning 26.810 for a fast lap, which was faster than second place - yes, I was catching him. However, first pace, was as I predicted, held by the man with the Revo. With an absolutly sick fast lap of 23.760, I've got a little work to do before I catch him. I think some steering adjustments I made will take at least a second off of my lap time, but only some more testing will tell.

[slaf]

Coth -> If you compare your time with your previous year times. are you faster ?

[Saboteur]

:( Yesterday it was too windy and cold to run my MGT :( :( I hate winter !!!! I should move where there is no snow !!!

Same here except where we'd like to move will deal with more cold. It's still a nice area though and close to some RC tracks I like. :)

BTW, we're getting more snow. :(

[Cotharyus]

slaf - I don't know, this was the first race we've ever had a proper timing system at. My gut tells me that based on the lap times two other people turned in, that I was a little slower this time than I was running at the end of last year - mind you I'm using comparison based on performance last year to lap times this year - does that make sense? Like I said, I think getting my steering sorted is going to help a lot. I knew in the first race that the truck wasn't turning like it should, and I think I have it worked out now, if not I know it's certainly much closer than it was.

[slaf]

It makes sense :) I know you are a big fan of your OS engine but don't you think a bigger engine will not help you to have better time ?

[99SiR]

couple quick questions guys:

Just found out the only lhs up here carries blue thunder, traxxas and can get odonnels but only by the case and i'm not sure i need that much fuel at the moment!! Will blue thunder be ok to run or should i start looking at nearby towns for a better performing fuel?

Is the blue tube on the end of the exhaust the stinger? I've heard it creates back pressure and changes the preformance of your engine. Well in the little bashing i have done with mine, i managed to somehow put 2 cuts in it about half way up (must have been from running over a large rock or something). Maybe the idea of rock crawling at 20mph wasn't such a good idea, hahaha! Is this going to affect performance and should i be looking to fix/replace it?

Will cutting a hole in the windshield to allow for cooling allow alot more debris in? With the debris in mind i'm not sure if a hole in the drivers side or front windshield would be better?

Sorry for all the questions but i have no idea what works best when it comes to come of this stuff.
Thanks!

[fuzzy2133]

99 - if the deflector on the exhaust stinger was to come off completly then you would need to retune the engine; a few cuts should not hurt too much. I have not run Traxxas or Blue thunder personaly so I could not tell you. IMO your LHS should be carring at least one more fuel other than those two brands that you could buy one gallon at a time.

[MikeWz]

Personally, I would get the O'donnel. Buying by the case saves you money in the long run anyway.
Other than that, I'd take the BT over the traxxas fuel. Just keep an eye out with the BT. I found some blueish crystals forming in my carb while I was using it. That kinda scared me a bit. Don't think it would be a good thing for them to get into the P/S

[Saboteur]

I agree. Odonnell> Blue Thunder> traxxas. I never had a prob with BT though or the crystals. Worked really well for me.

[Chevy-SS]

........However, first pace, was as I predicted, held by the man with the Revo. With an absolutly sick fast lap of 23.760, ...........
Coth, what engine does the guy have in his Revo?

[slaf]

Chevy-SS -> I browsed LST and Revo forums just to know what people said about those trucks and I noticed that you were interrested into the Revo... From what I heard and read the Revo is an very good racer, and an excellent racer matched with OS engine... If I was buying another Monster for racing, I'll go with Revo even if I don't really like Traxxas....But for now my MGT is more than enough for me :)

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - I certainly think a bigger engine would help. I'm currently running a 17/49 gear combo, and would like to go either a 17/46 or an 18/49, but I don't think I can realistically pull that sort of gearing with this engine. However, I'm also a bit of a skinflint (though you wouldn't know it to look at my truck) and refuse to buy another engine before this one is well worn out.

99 - If I were you, I'd go for the O'donnel by the case before I'd touch either of the other two fuels. I've never run either fuel, but everyone I've seen running them has had a hard time keeping engines tuned after a gallon or two of it. One of them has switched fuels and gotten a new engine of the same sort and has several gallons through it with no tuning problems at all. The other has used several different engines, while using the same fuel (blue thunder) and has had trouble with all of his engines. It might be coincidence, it might not.

Chevy - The guy with the Revo - he's go an OS .18tm in his revo. it's got so much power that if the traction's good it'll stand the truck up when it shifts to second.

[Saboteur]

Yeah I took think you should look into a bit more power Coth. May just benefit from it. :)

[slaf]

Coth -> Lean your engine a little more, this will give you more power and wear your engine faster, this will give you a good argue to buy a new engine :)


Picco .27 is now available...Claimed at 3.1HP

190$ street price

[Cotharyus]

It's actually really funny, but I never got my temps over 200 on the track the other day, but that little .21 was screaming.

When I get a new engine, it'll be the fantom .27, unless OS releases something interesting between now and then, which is another reason to make the engine last longer. Plus if I can shave some more time using this engine, then I'll be that much ahead of the game with the new engine. An interesting thing to keep in mind is that the track I run on is actually a rather short track, the long straight being only about 115 feet long, and there's a big double on that. I suspect that I mostly need to be able to make up some time in the turns and through the timing section, which is being a little trickier to get through with my current suspension setup - over 16lbs of spring rate on each corner, but I'm not digging chunks out of the track when I land the big double on the front straight either...it's a monster jump, I stood next to it and jumped it and was looking up at the bottom of my truck when it went past me. Doing that 11 times in 5 minutes will put a beating on something....

[slaf]

I do still running my stock TT .21 engine and wish OS will release a big block soon.

Am I wrong but 200 seems a little bit low ?

[Saboteur]

Definately wanna get over 200. My RB was nasty when I ran it at 220. Never really ran hotter than that, but it already had more than enough power.

[slaf]

My stock .21 runs well around 240-250, some engines run better at hihger temp than other. I read the Wasp 28 spec and they said that the normal temp are 280 !!! But 200F looks a little bit too low :(

[Cotharyus]

Well, if it had been any colder out there, I'd have put some foil on the head. I had a fair amount of smoke at WOT, and good performance. I didn't want to lean it out any further in the intrest of heat because I don't feel like it would have netted me any more RPMs to speak of. Just because we raced doesn't mean the weather was nice, it just means the track wasn't muddy. It was probly only about 36F when we finished racing.

[kurrz]

got quick newb q is odonnell 20% what i should run my new truck on also what about break in thanks

[Cotharyus]

kurrz - odonnell 20% will be fine. You should *always* break an engine in with the same fuel you will run in it after it's broken in.

[kurrz]

ok thanks is the break in procedure in the instructions the best way to break it in also what type and battery configuration receiver pack should i get thanks guys

[MikeWz]

200 in that case probably isn't too terrible. I know I was talking about temps before, and being under 200 isn't too good. One important thing though, which I apparently left out. Do not tune to temperature. Tune to where your engine is in the zone, then if you're bashing richen it up an 1/8th turn or so. Better to tune to performance/sound/smoke than temperature. No two engines (even the exact same model) run optimum performance at the same temperature

[Monsterbrad]

thats very true!
Use temp as a guide line and use the smoke as a judge for how lean or rich the engine is running.
I did notice that Odonnell will smoke less and keep the temps the same.
BLue thunder smokes more and the temps are the same also maybe a little bit cooler cause BT has more oil in it.
I have run both and like the Odonnell fuel better.
Just remember when you are tuning for power that over 270 is no good and when the engine is not smoking when you have the throttle pinned all the way means the engine is running lean no oil.
The best way to learn is just play with the needles and see what happens.
THis engine is not a super high performance race engine and you will have to lean it alot to harm it forever they are pretty durable.
I have had alot of engine's over 300 more than once or twice and they have been fine just remember when you go past a certian point the engine will be hard to get cooled back off by richening it up!
Shut it down wait for it to cool and start over.
Just make sure also that you keep your fuel in a dark cool dry place!

[MikeWz]

Coth/kurrz - it's not really a big deal as long as you stay within the same nitro percentage you broke it in with. It is possible to switch percentages but there are many different theorys on how you should go about doing it, so we won't get into that. But you should have no problem going From Blue Thunder to O'donnel to Trinity to HPI etc...You'll just have to re-tune your engine

[kurrz]

1 more question today. How important is a failsafe and is any one better than another? Thanks

[fuzzy2133]

kurrz - a failsafe is a very good idea incase of glitches, TX batteries die, or you go too far and get out of range. Stock the MGT has a mechinacal one on the carb for a case where the servo's loose power. I have GWS and Venom failsafes both work just as good as the other. I am a big fan of running a 6volt NiMH rx pack with the failsafe the configuration you want for the RX pack would be a hump style (3cells on the bottom and 2 on the top).

[slaf]

I use Venom on my RC10GT and Dynamite Micro failsafe on my MGT, they both work fine. The Dynamite is very small, fits into the receiver box easily.

[sabu]

OK I need some advice.. I'm Really itching to race my MGT this summer, but I need you guy's help. What tire and wheels should I get? I know the answer is in this huge thred but I can't find it. Any advice from you fellas would be super kool!!!!
Thanks !!
Nick the noob
P.S. Where can I find Zombie maxx tires at?? They look like they'd be awesome bash tires!!!

[MikeWz]

For racing, you can't beat Pro-line bowties. Get those, and the Off-set (widemaxx) velocity rims. DO NOT get the 40 series tires. Myself, Coth and Slaf bent the rims. They're not made to hold up to the weight of the MGT.
For bashing, the zombie maxx tires are my personal favorite. I picked up a set on ebay, but you should be able to get them at www.stomerhobbies.com

[Cotharyus]

Ditto what mike said there. I even went with the standard offset velocity rims to keep the width of the truck down a little to make passing somewhat easier - and I rarely turn my truck over in a turn unless I hit the pipe with the inside wheel or something stupid like that. Bowties are the way to go for now on most tracks, but I *do* really like the looks of the new Losi racing tire.

[sabu]

Kool!!! thanks a lot!!! that is exactly what I will get!, I tought you guys had probs. with the 40 series. You guys r my heros!! :p What about gearing with these wheels and tires?? any opinions on that??

what kinda of wheels you running wtih your zombie maxx tires Mike??
thanks again!!!
Nick

[Cotharyus]

I'm running 17/49 with the bowties on, and doing fairly well. It's worth noting that I'm running an OS .21 RG, and if I was running more engine, i'd go for more gearing, because it would pull it well.

[MikeWz]

Actually, I'm running the stockers. They fit perfect.
As for gearing, you'll probably want a taller gear ratio to make up for the Maxx sized tires. Prolly like a 50t spur will do the trick. Not a huge difference.

[Monsterbrad]

I also bent the 40 series wheels and they are on there way back to get replaced I hope!
Then when they send me new ones I am going to sell the rims and keep the bow ties for some new 23mm ones.
Once i see if the 23mm ones are tough enough!

[astainback]

Ok, I have been dead set on getting an LST, but I have been wanting an MGT for quite a while. I think I am going to order on in the next week or 2.
I just wanted to know what you guys thought about trinity fuel. I see odonnel at the LHS every once and a while, but they regularly carry trinity and blue thunder.
Also, should i go 30% or 20??
has anyone tried out the 23mm rims yet??
thanks,
adrian

[astainback]

Some more questions.. sorry!!

Do the stock rims suck??
Should I go ahead and get some better rims??
Do the tires come mounted??
Does the truck come with the shaft for the drill??
Will the hpi roto start or the losi work??

[Saboteur]

1)The stock rims are fine.
2) It's optional.
3) Yes.
4) Yes it does. Very good job AE :).
5) I wouldn't bother with ANY Roto start. The stock engine is super reliable as well as the pullstart. You won't get any blisters from this one with its super wide handle.

[slaf]

Kool!!! thanks a lot!!! that is exactly what I will get!, I tought you guys had probs. with the 40 series. You guys r my heros!! :p What about gearing with these wheels and tires?? any opinions on that??

what kinda of wheels you running wtih your zombie maxx tires Mike??
thanks again!!!
Nick



Bowties are 22% smaller than stock tires. To keep the same acceleration and top speed, you must change your gear ratio. A 17T clutch bell increase ratio by 13% and changing your spur gear will give you another 6% to give you a 19% total...Just 3% below initial ratio.

[fuzzy2133]

Ok, I have been dead set on getting an LST, but I have been wanting an MGT for quite a while. I think I am going to order on in the next week or 2.
I just wanted to know what you guys thought about trinity fuel. I see odonnel at the LHS every once and a while, but they regularly carry trinity and blue thunder.
Also, should i go 30% or 20??
has anyone tried out the 23mm rims yet??
thanks,
adrian

I run trinity monster horsepower without any trouble.
20% or 30% nitro is your choice. the engine head I think is shimmed for 20% not positive on that.
23mm rims I would like to run however I have a few too many MT's that would need to be changed and then change my tire selection to as well. Just not cost effective for me to do at the moment.

[Cotharyus]

The engine comes shimmed for 20% which should be fine, unless you are the most hard core of racers, or an extreme bashing freak.

I'm currently steering clear of the 23mm hex/rims because unless I'm mistaken, they will add some weight/rotating mass to the wheels - albeit on the inside, but still. For as hard as I work to get and keep the weight down on my truck, and having never had a problem with stripping the hexes, I'll stick to the stock ones (actually I run the FT aluminum hexes - 1/4oz each lighter than the stockers).

[kurrz]

Hey guys any tips on keeping the truck in good shape maintenance, cleaning, and general upkeep do you use a special cleaner? Thanks

[MikeWz]

There's nothing really special. I personally give the truck a good clean after every run (that's off-road and dirty). It's pretty easy to get to everything. 4 screws (5 because you gotta take the servo horn off) and the whole radio tray is out, 4 more for the fuel tank, and that's pretty much everything that gets int he way of the chassis. Make sure the engine/engine mount don't build up a dirt coating, as that acts as an insulator. Make sure the drive cups don't get overly dirty either.
You can use simple green, diluted with water. I think it's a 50/50 ratio. I personally use Nitro blast from Dynamite. It gets rid of all the oil residue, and evaporates in like 5 seconds. It's pretty expensive at $5 a can, but it works awesome

[astainback]

I also run the Zombie Maxx Tires. I run them on the stock rims though, to keep some ground clearance, and help kill some of the sidewall. The tires are awesome. They wear very well, and they hook up real well on pretty much everything. I've yet to find a surface where I didn't like them. I'm sure some tires hook up better under other specific conditions (eg, bowties will hook up better on semi-packed dirt, but they wear faster and they're not so good on the real loose stuff). Go for the Zombie Maxx man, they're awesome


I am going to get the MGT soon... can't wait...
I already have a tmaxx, and have looked at the zombie maxx tires before.
I just wanted to ask.. how close in size are the zombie maxx tires to the stock AE ones??
Why would the stock rims give more ground clearance than the rpm ones??
one more...
do the white dyeable rims stay fairly white.. or should i get the chrome ones??
I have had the chrome before, and it wore off pretty fast.. painted them black.
thanks,
adrian

[Cotharyus]

As far as cleaning goes, I got a spray bottle and a gallon can of denatured alcohal for $3, and use that to clean off my truck. I'm not obsessive about cleaning it off, (tearing it down every time, etc) but I *do* keep it good an clean, and go over all the moving parts and make sure nothing wobbles or binds, and then spray a little wd40 on it to keep things smoother.

[Chevy-SS]

OK I need some advice.. I'm Really itching to race my MGT this summer, but I need you guy's help. What tire and wheels should I get? ...........

I raced with 40 series ProLine BowTies all last season and never bent or broke a rim. I run a Picco .26 and I pushed it to the limit. I broke lots of other parts, but never the rims. However, I run the chrome five-spoke rims, not the flat-faced, plain-color ones.

Also, if you're gonna be racing, I put together a small web site with tips and tricks, mostly stuff from this forum and from the http://monstergtforum.com/

Here's the link to the tips and tricks site:
http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/home.htm

Hope this helps. Look forward to seeing you at the races!

:)

[slaf]

I use automotive brake cleaner (without chloride) to clean my MGT and finish with WD40 to have bright plastic parts.

[MikeWz]

I am going to get the MGT soon... can't wait...
I already have a tmaxx, and have looked at the zombie maxx tires before.
I just wanted to ask.. how close in size are the zombie maxx tires to the stock AE ones??
Why would the stock rims give more ground clearance than the rpm ones??
one more...
do the white dyeable rims stay fairly white.. or should i get the chrome ones??
I have had the chrome before, and it wore off pretty fast.. painted them black.
thanks,
adrian

Zombie Maxx tires are fairly close to the stock size. They're a bit smaller. It's definitely noticeable in the sidewall. I don't beleive RPM makes rims the same size as the stock monster GT rims, although I never did much research on it. I had no problem with the stock rims, and thinking that all the RPM rims were about Maxx sized, I would get more ground clearance because they're bigger.

[astainback]

Zombie Maxx tires are fairly close to the stock size. They're a bit smaller. It's definitely noticeable in the sidewall. I don't beleive RPM makes rims the same size as the stock monster GT rims, although I never did much research on it. I had no problem with the stock rims, and thinking that all the RPM rims were about Maxx sized, I would get more ground clearance because they're bigger.

so the tires can fit on 2 different sizes of rims??

sorry, i am trying to understand.
i have only purchased a couple of sets of tires for the tmaxx, and all the others were for my xxxnt or mini t

thanks
adrian

[MikeWz]

Yeah they can fit on different sized tires. Picture it this way. The T-maxx is an oversized 1/10th. It's not really 1/10 (the stampede is a true 1/10th scale "MT"). The size difference between a set of Maxx tires and a set of Monster GT tires isn't as big as the difference between a set of xxx-nt tires and a set of T-maxx tires. It's not a tremendous difference, but it's enough to make a difference in ground clearance

[slaf]

MGT stock tires inner diameter is 3" and maxx size inner tire diameter is 3.2"

I saw some people installing MGT tires on Maxx wheels and they said taht it works fine...

[MikeWz]

Slaf - If you're talking inner diameter, the T-maxx tires have a larger diameter because the sidewall is smaller. If you sat the MGT tire on the ground, you'd notice that it is a fair amount larger than that of the T-maxx

[kurrz]

Its here it came this afternoon i am physched now what about the break in also can i use any kind of air filter oil? I am going to get the thread lock and oil tommorow and hopefully break it in on saturday any comments are appreciated. Thanks :D

[MikeWz]

Yes, use airfilter oil. I just picked up some K&N airfilter oil from my local auto store, because it was closer than the hobby store, and you get more for your money with it.
Just take your time with the break-in. Try using the Heat Cycle method, works better than the traditional idle method. You can find a thread on how to do it here:
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=190880

[Monsterbrad]

When I break my engine's in I just run them up to 200 8-10 times as quick as I can then shut it off.
After that richen it up run it like you normally would.
Pull the plug and see when the engine is hot if there is still pinch.
If there is then the motor is not fully borken in yet.
Heat cycle it a few more times then richen it back up again and see what happens.
This normally takes me 5 to 6 total tanks then they run great.
I have been doing this for a while and it seems to work very well....
Some will say this is not a good way but my revo had 2-1/2 gallons on it when I sold it and it was still running great and its still running today!

[Cotharyus]

If you really want to get more bang for your buck on air filter oil, but a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil at walmart. You can use it for air filter oil, *and* after run oil, and it's cheap.

[Monsterbrad]

Hey coth
be careful doing that!
The Marvel oil is a little thin for the air filter.
The thicker oil that is used for foam air filters works better.
Trust me on this lost and engine due to oil that was to thin on the air filter element.

[Saboteur]

I've been using MMO in my airfilters and it works pretty good. I just lube it up a lot and press it in.

[MikeWz]

It'll work for just bashing around the yard and stuff, but I would avoid using it for hardcore off-roading in dirt. The fine dust particles will eventually find their way through the MMO. It's like using ARO in your airfilter...which is also a bad idea, and it's recommend not to do that. I'm sure if you're running it in the street or your lawn it'll be okay, but for any dirt/sand I'd stay away from it. Even those little gray rocks that people use for driveways and stuff. That'll kick up some serious dust that'll be able to sneak by the MMO

[Cotharyus]

I've never had any dirt get through my filter - but then I have four or five filters laying around that I clean pretty much every time I run the truck. For the record, the *absolute best* filter oil, is the stuff they run on motocross bikes. It comes in an aerosol can, and sprays on, then congeals into something that's so sticky, you have to wash your hands if you touch it. A guy at my track uses it, and I'd use it to if I could find any, but for now, I just use the cheap stuff and clean my filters often. It's a good habbit to be in anyhow.

[WakkoSS]

So the stock filter should be oiled? Is the rear wheel toe in supposed to be so severe with a stock setup? I would think it'd be better to be dead straight or just a slight toe-in.

[Saboteur]

My stock setup wasn't really a "severe" setup. About average actually.

[WakkoSS]

I'm talking about the rear wheels. They're pretty toed in from the factory.

[slaf]

So the stock filter should be oiled? Is the rear wheel toe in supposed to be so severe with a stock setup? I would think it'd be better to be dead straight or just a slight toe-in.

Some people oil the outer filter, some oil the inner filter and some oil both. I oil oiol the outer filter. I use Team Associated oil and it's doing the job well...

Toe-in will help your truck to be more forgiving on the straight but this will slightly reduce acceleration. I think stock toein is 3...Don't go with more toe-in...I use 2

[Monsterbrad]

I oil both my filters!
The outer one and the inner one.
Always safer than sorry.
Also make sure that you remember the zip tie lost and engine that way also forgot to put that on after a filter cleaning.

[kurrz]

The owner of my lhs said i could use after run oil to oil the air filter is this correct? I cant break in til sunday and it will be around 25 degrees is it ok to break the motor in in these conditions? thanks

[astainback]

Do yourself and your engine a favor and buy some air filter oil. After run oil will not hurt your engine, but the dirt it lets in will.
You spent some money on that truck, don't get cheap taking care of it. You will thank yourself later.

[MikeWz]

^^^ What he said. You can pick up a little tube thing of K&N airfilter oil (actually pretty similar to what Coth is saying. You can feel it get all sticky on your fingers if you touch it). I think I paid like $7 for my tube, and I've oiled the inner filter probably about 10 times with it already. That's worth it IMO

[kurrz]

Thanks guys i think the LHS was out of filter oil so he tried to sell the ARO to me but i alreaddy had some if i cant get K&N any thick air filter oil should work right. thanks

[kcobra]

Just buy a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. Works fine for the air filter and after run oil. A 2 dollar quart will last you a lifetime.

[MikeWz]

Just buy a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. Works fine for the air filter and after run oil. A 2 dollar quart will last you a lifetime.
That's the problem though. MMO is way thin. It's actually thinner than my oil that was actually labeled as After Run Oil. It was never meant to be run in the airfilter. There are a number of companies that make stuff that's specifically meant for an airfilter, and if you don't get a brand name it will be really cheap. Even though K&N is brand name, I'll still found it to be super cheap for the number of times I've been able to clean my filter

[Cotharyus]

I know some of you were interested in the layout of the track that I run at (slaf in particular), and I know most of you would probly enjoy some racing footage, even if it *is* low res. I'll go ahead and tell you, neither my MGT, nor my driving is featured anywhere on the video, although I did film some of it, and my track marshalling skills are in evidence. So here's a link to about a 6 minute video clip of some racing at my track, including a couple of full laps around the track following some good runs.

http://maxxtrack.homeip.net/video/racevid1.zip


If you like it, stay tuned, because there will be more video's available as the season progresses.

[Monsterbrad]

Well the truck broke :-(
The front a-arm
But then again its kinda cold and it landed off a 5 ft plus jump kinda wrong and the arm gave way.
Also broke one spring holder on that side.
It was a hard hit and you guys have said the arms a little weak.
Oh well have to get some new ones!

[Cotharyus]

I've never said the arms are weak, but I've heard other people say it. I bought two sets of arms for my truck when I first bought the truck (back when arms were pakaged one upper and one lower in a set instead of two uppers or two lowers) and both sets are still in the bag, unopened. And with that video link up there, you see the track I'm racing on, so you know they take a beating.

[Monsterbrad]

Coth
I feel that the truck was super cold which does not help and the truck hit pretty hard.
No biggy just need a couple new arms!

[kurrz]

Well couldnt get the K&N filter oil so i got some husqvarna chainsaw foam filter oil super tacky should be breaking in in the morning wish me luck thanks for all the help

[Chevy-SS]

I have been experimenting and testing lots of different things with regards to steering the MGT. Today, I performed a bunch of tests for turning radius using four different sets of tires. Here's a pic of the tires I used:

http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/4setstires.jpg

Before I started these tests, I made sure to align my front end using the "Steering Tune-Up" steps here:http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/maxsteering.htm. Once I did that, all I did was to change tires and measure the turning radius. I wanted to be sure I was repeating the tests as accurately as possible, so I tried to minimize all the variables. I repeated each separate radius test about six times and then I switched the tires to the next set. I mounted each set of tires twice, so I actually did about a dozen radius tests on each set of tires.

I put a piece of duct tape across my carpeted floor and made marks on it, both starting and finishing marks. I used the marks to line the truck up the same way for each test. I turned the wheels (using the radio) to maximum left turn for each test, I turned the wheels before moving the truck. I used small pointers on each end of the truck and lined them above marks on the tape.

After I had everything lined up and the wheels held hard left, I gently pushed the truck until it came around and the front pointer hit the center of the tape. When using the same tire my measurements were actually all quite similar, thus validating my test protocol. I would then take a measurement, as shown below:

http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/radiusmeasure.jpg

The different tires had quite an effect on turning radius. Here are the results:

- - - TIRE - - - - - - - - -TURNING RADIUS
Standard T-Maxx Tires - - - - - 63.5"
Stock MGT Tires - - - - - - - - 59"
Proline 40 Series - - - - - - - - 57.5"
Wide Offset T-Maxx Tires - - - -54.5"

So, if you want the tightest turning radius, then the wide offset T-Maxx tires are the clear winner from these four. There was quite a noticeable difference in the turning radius as I was doing the testing. Hope you find this information as interesting as I did.

Complete tests and more pics on this page (go to bottom):
http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/maxsteering.htm

[Monsterbrad]

Well I put the new arm I got for a buck at the track today!
Ran the truck when I got home off that same jump that claimed the arm and jumped it many many times no problems at all.
Truck is running great!
Like it a ton :D

[kurrz]

Glad to hear took mine down to the school parking lot to break it in, man this thing is pretty fast and lots of fun cant wait for better weather

[Monsterbrad]

I hear ya there.
This truck is pretty good stock!
I am impressed so far has great durability too
jump after jump off the snow pile in the front yard a couple jumps wide open from the street flew really really far 5ft in the air at least nothing breaks just slaps the chassis and away it goes.
still hearing the ring and pinion click every once in a while but just have to watch how I land jumps!

[slaf]

I jumped my MGT from the garage roof....at least 12ft several times....No dommage :)

[kurrz]

Thats nuts this truck seems real tough my shocks seem to sag alot do the preload spacers help with this?

[slaf]

Good job Chevy, I'm glad I'm racing with Wide Offset T-Maxx Tires :)

[slaf]

Today temp was around 25F. I decided to start my MGT...I had difficulties to start the engine but once started....I had alot of fun :)

I made a snow guard from a 2L Pepsi bottle. This protect all electronics, tranny and the fron end from snow.

Here's some pics....

[slaf]

Another....

[slaf]

And the last one....

[slaf]

BTW....This was my first run with the Fantom pipe....Quieter than the stock pipe. It looks like I'll be able to get more power from the stock engine with this pipe. Unfortunately, temp was cold and my carb setting was far from perfect....I'll work on the pipe this spring....

[MikeWz]

Kurrz - Preload spacers will help with this. You'll also want stiffer springs. The stock springs are WAY too soft. Not only does the truck sag, you'll role a lot because of this too. If you're gonna run zombie maxx tires, try running a Gold/Red combo (gold on inside shocks, red on outside...or vice versa, not matter really, just as long as you have two of each on the front and rear).

Slaf - That's a pretty slick idea. I like it. That Fantom pipe is pretty awesome. It sounds real cool, pretty quiet. It definitely opens up the stock engine too.

[Saboteur]

Sweet ride Slaf. What tires/rims are those? They look smaller than stock. Pretty much it seems any nice .21 pipe opens up this engine. Are you using the FOC?

[Cotharyus]

Chevy - nice work on that test, I'll keep those numbers in mind when looking at tires - I think I'm going to try something different soon, but haven't settled on what to try yet.

Slaf - Nice snow shots man. I'm sure when you get some warmer weather you'll love that pipe.

Mike & Kurrz - After all the toying with shocks I've done, I've gone back to two shocks on each corner - and get this - each shock is fitted with an 8.4lb/in rate spring. That's over 16lbs on each corner. Believe it or not, I think this is the best setup I've run yet - 45wt oil in the shocks, and two extra pistons on in the shock to limit how high the truck rides. I'm using pistons because the fuel tubing I had inside the shocks was disintegrating and causing serious problems with inconsistent damping.