Team Associated Monster GT V2.0 [Archive] - Page 7

Cotharyus

03-07-2005, 05:42 PM

Mike - my springs are a super heavy duty spring that I ran across somewhere ( didn't bookmark it! ) on the internet for "large R/C monster trucks" - you can tell they're a little generic on size because they fit very tightly around the spring retainers on the bottoms of the shocks. The extra pistons work like this - take the cap off and the shock end on the shaft, push the shaft up and out of the shock body, slip two extra pistons on over the shaft, and put the shaft back in. Clearer?

Slaf - I never had any luck with the o-rings either. They came apart on me as badly as the fuel tubing. But so far the pistons have been the trick.

Weight stuff - first and foremost, ditch all the stock body mounting hardware except the posts coming up through the shock towers. Drop them down as low as you can, and mount the body directly to those. I actually cut those posts in half on my truck, so I can make 8 mounting posts out of one set of four. Drill holes in your battery and radio boxes. Put the reciever and battery in a ballon and forget them. I cut over 1.5oz off of my truck just cutting on the radio tray. Something anyone can do - you know those plastic end caps that make your chasis look finished on the ends? Unscrew those things, pull them out, and throw them away. They are what I call "pretty parts", they serve no usefull purpose other than looking good. That's the easy stuff...

Now onto cutting aluminum. There is a large section of the front and rear skids that is covered by the plastic part of the bumpers on each end. Cut large squares out of the plates *under* the bumpers. You can also cut on your chasis as you see fit - I used the FT chasis as a model and did some trimming that worked out well. *do not* do this if you're unsure you can maintain the balance of the truck while doing it.

A couple of very effective places to spend money for hop-up parts:

Hardcore Ti Pillowballs. Big weight savings, lots of unsprung weight taken off, makes the suspension more nimble.

Lunsford Hingepins and Turnbuckles: Reduces both sprung and unsprung weight, you also won't have to worry about your hingepins backing out during a race or bashing session.

FT hexxes - these are almost 1/4 oz each weight savings, and it's both unsprung weight, *and* rotating mass, so when you're accelerating, it'll be like taking off 3oz of static mass when you have all four on the truck.

FT nuts - you can get FT wheel nuts and one other size nut that's used quite a bit on this truck (namely on the shock mounts) - per each these don't amount to much savings, but when you combine them, they can start to add up if you're starting to scrape the bottom for places to take weight off.

And up next for me - Ti screws...I think I've found a source...

Saboteur

03-07-2005, 05:58 PM

A lil bashing with the MGT today. Took me 10mins to start it, but it finally got running and almost pulled a few wheelies in the grass with some spacers on the shocks. Went into the dirt part and realized how muddy it was. Mud nearly went halfway upto the hex nuts on the wheels. Pulled it out, cleaned it off and ran for another 10mins. On my second refuel, what happened? The Pullstart pulles RIGHT OUT. Boy did that ruin fun, but atleast I managed to drive it :)

kurrz

03-07-2005, 07:17 PM

That stinks hey how long of runtimes should i expect per fuel tank also how much smoke should i see and should any fuel sputter out the exhaust at idle thanks

slaf

03-07-2005, 07:20 PM

You should be able to run your MGT at least 10-12 minutes depending how you drive your truck. It's normal (to a certain point) to see fuel sputtering from the tuned pipe but not too much. The best way to know if you're running to rich it's to buy a temp gun (around 20$US).

Monsterbrad

03-07-2005, 07:31 PM

Well I have to say that I have been bashing the heck outa this truck and all I have broken was a front a-arm also.
Bad jump thats all on the drive way hard on the arms.
Its taken a ton of jumps though time after time and its doing good so far.
As far as the savage and this truck!!!!!!!
Buy the MGT
I have had them both and I don't like working on the savage at all its a pain in the azz!
MGT all the way!!!!
its a great outa the box basher

Saboteur

03-07-2005, 09:16 PM

Anyone know a good drill to use for the drill start? I think I may invest in one and do that.

MikeWz

03-07-2005, 11:41 PM

Slaf - It's better to tell how the engine is running by sound/performance/exhaust. Temp guages are best for telling when something is wrong with your engine (other than tuning problems). I've found them best for letting me know when my engine is dying. When the engine is starting to go, it'll run a bit hotter.

Sabs - Just snag a craftsman drill or something. You don't need anything fancy to start it

astainback

03-08-2005, 02:54 AM

Do any of you guys use a hump pack??
If so, which one??
Where did you get it and how much did you pay for it??

I need one for my tmaxx and xxxnt as well.

Any suggestions??

thanks in advanced!!!
adrian

Chevy-SS

03-08-2005, 06:33 AM

..................Does anybody know where I can snag a digital scale or something?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=58269&item=3854373743&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

I bought five of those scales for a total cost of just over $100. They work good. I use one under each wheel to check for overall balance, plus I bought an extra for a spare.

One scale is $14.99, which is a good price.

Cotharyus

03-08-2005, 06:33 AM

astainback - I use hump packs in my MGT - one of them is a trinity pack, the other an orion or HPI, I forget, but I'd lean towards it being an orion. I think I paid 27 for the trinity pack at my LHS because I was desperate for one at the time, and then got the Orion from tower for something like $21 to use as a backup, then decided the orion was the better pack, so now the trinity plays backup. It's always nice to have a backup so that you can eliminate problems quickly while at the track.

slaf

03-08-2005, 07:37 AM

Slaf - It's better to tell how the engine is running by sound/performance/exhaust. Temp guages are best for telling when something is wrong with your engine (other than tuning problems). I've found them best for letting me know when my engine is dying. When the engine is starting to go, it'll run a bit hotter.

I tune my engine with sound/performance/exhaust (SPE, new term ? :) ) and I just make sure it's not overheating with the temp gun. When engine runs like I want, I just check for the temp...

Saboteur

03-08-2005, 12:16 PM

Sabs - Just snag a craftsman drill or something. You don't need anything fancy to start it

So you mean this drill I saw in a Odd Job store for $20/$30 bucks will do the trick? How many starts can I get outta the drill before recharging? I've used drills before, but never checked out the longevity of the packs.

Cotharyus

03-08-2005, 12:29 PM

Sabs - I used the 14.4v craftsman cordless drill I had laying around for my truck. It never acted like it had any trouble starting my engine, and you'll certainly get a full day of racing or bashing in on a single charge of the drill. Usually drill starts consisted of less than 4 seconds of run time for the drill per start.

slaf

03-08-2005, 12:32 PM

Here's some videos of my snow session !!! I was runnign the truck and filming at the same time....

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=51112

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=51111

Saboteur

03-08-2005, 12:37 PM

How much are teh craftsman drills? I figured since I had a bag of craftsman tools I might as well get the good stuff. :)

Cotharyus

03-08-2005, 02:16 PM

The flyer I got in the mail yesterday from sears shows an 18v drill/trim saw combo for $71, so I should think you could get a 14.4v drill for less than $50 with a charger and two batteries.

slaf

03-08-2005, 02:46 PM

Sab -> I did some shopping for you....

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00910182000

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00926553000

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00911520000

kurrz

03-08-2005, 03:01 PM

i have a 9.6v craftsman someone gave me for christmas that i use around the house and it fires my truck up easily

slaf

03-08-2005, 03:05 PM

The LST starter should be fine too....

kurrz

03-08-2005, 03:08 PM

What sound should i hear and what temp is best as far as performance goes i realize all engines are different just need a ballpark and as far as exhaust i figure if theres smoke it is running a little rich and that will extend engine life correct? Or can a engine run to rich. The other day it seemed to bog down just before it shifted to 2nd would that need a HSN or LSN adj. sorry for all the questions just dont want to harm the engine thanks

Cotharyus

03-08-2005, 03:36 PM

Kurrz - I've had well tuned healthy engines run anywhere from 190 - 280. That said, *normally* you'll see between 215 and 245 with a good tune on an average day. You should see a good line of smoke coming from the stinger with a good tune. The engine will run too rich, but as long as the temperature generally gets over 200, you'll be fine, and it's better to run it too rich than too lean.

In the case of your engine sounding like it was bogging right before it shifted to second, richen the engine up 1/4 turn and see if it doesn't run better.

kurrz

03-08-2005, 03:53 PM

Thanks Coth should i richen the HSN or the LSN also when should i check engine temp thank again

Monsterbrad

03-08-2005, 07:16 PM

I use the LST starter and it works great with the stock LST starter shaft cause the MGT one will not fit in the hex of the LST starter its a few thousands bigger but the LST starter shaft will work great.
I do the same for tuning the engine.
I run it around the track or the yard or whatever and see how its running judge decent smoke trail and then check temp.
Tune a little then.
Try to stay under 250 and more than 200!

MikeWz

03-08-2005, 08:52 PM

^^^ sounds good

Man, we finally get a nice snow here, but the wind is supposed to be up to about 40MPH tomorrow. Would be totally awesome, except that makes the windchill about 0*. Would be like 25 (which is fine by me) but 0* is just a bit too cold. That's a little dissapointing, because I haven't run the truck in a few months, and I LOVE running it in the snow. Love making huge jumps out of the snow, and drifting, it's mad fun. I made a drift/MX track for the MGT last year, and will hopefully be able to do it again

slaf

03-08-2005, 09:00 PM

Mike...You can watch my videos I posted few post ago...:)

Cotharyus

03-08-2005, 09:39 PM

Kurzz - richen the HSN.

I've got a video of the races from this weekend in the works. Maybe I'll get that on the net for you to watch too Mike.

Saboteur

03-08-2005, 09:46 PM

Cool vids slaf.

Mike- We already have high speed winds that caused a black out in some parts of my town, and many other places for several hrs. It went into parts of Long Island as well. Not much snow accumulation, but wind with stinging snowflakes, and heavy gusts of wind blew people all around, flying debris, buckling windows, and broken tree branches. :eek:

slaf

03-08-2005, 10:16 PM

Since last sunday we got 10" of snow and we are supposed to receive another 10" with 70-80Km/h wind tomorrow.... There is at leat 3ft of snow in my backyard (where I wanna build my track). The only engine I can start those days is my snowblower....Unfortunately, AE doesn't make radio controlled snowblower.....:(

It's not funny....I just talked about a radio controlled snow blower and I surprise myself to think about upgrading tires.....:) I think I'm a RC addict!!!

Do you guys know where I can find a better tuned pipe for a 11HP Briggs and Straton engine !!! ahhahaha

MikeWz

03-08-2005, 10:32 PM

Sabs - Yeah, I'm back home on LI, it was pretty bad. It's not gonna snow tomorrow, it's just going to be 0 degrees, and I don't feel like standing out there in that kind of weather. Hopefully it'll warm up a little sometime this week so I can get out there and have some fun with jumps.

Coth - That'd be awesome, I love watching videos of races. Helps with the strategy. You can pick out the lines and stuff, and then bring them over to your own track (although it's not exactly the same, you can judge based on the degree of the turn). Let me know when they're up, I'd love to watch it.

Slaf - Cool videos...that's a lotta snow. You need to make some nice jumps with that. They build really fast. They wear down pretty quick but they're real easy to fix.

Thanks to Jay who was kind enough to mail me a drill starter for free. Kudos man. That's what I love about the R/C community. People always willing to help out. Hope I can be of some assistance to somebody someday. It's real cool to help people out, I enjoy it. I'd like to actually get to meet some of the people from these boards some day. Seems like a lot of really cool people here.

Cotharyus

03-09-2005, 05:37 PM

Mike - videos:
http://maxxtrack.homeip.net/video/racevid1.zip
http://maxxtrack.homeip.net/videp/racevid2.zip

If you guys download these videos, *please* download them only once, if you think you'll want to watch them later, save them. Be aware that the first one is about 25 megs, and the second is about 65 megs, and these are hosted on my home server. I will occassionally turn off the web server to free up bandwidth for my phone calls. Your best bet (and the biggest favor you could do me) is to wait until after 10pm central time to download those videos. I will be working on getting this site on a better server soon.

kurrz

03-09-2005, 09:54 PM

Thanks guys more snow and ice here last night hopefully ill get to run it again soon i cant wait for spring.

Saboteur

03-09-2005, 10:54 PM

Man dude, trying to Dl from that link makes my cable go REALLY slow. What's going on? :confused: :P

badboy2

03-10-2005, 12:57 AM

i kno me too i never had a dl that long even vids from other sites i can get easy maybe the link is not working

Cotharyus

03-10-2005, 07:44 AM

guys, it's going to go really slow - that's *my* server, which means it's on a cable link, which means it has an upstream bandwidth cap of 256k. So you guys know what sort of beating that cable connection takes, never mind my use of it for web browsing, I'm just going to talk about uploads from the webserver to other people - that system has moved 680megs of data out as of midnight last night. I'm working on getting the outbound bandwidth upped to 1Mbps or so without it costing me any extra, and there's a chance that at some point in the next 6 months or so, I'll put that server, or a server, on the end of an OC3 at another location. So please, don't complain about what I do with my limited resources ;)

slaf

03-10-2005, 02:57 PM

Coth -> A OC-3 - 155 megabits per second is a limited ressource ???

Cotharyus

03-10-2005, 06:18 PM

slaf - I might be getting access to an OC-3, this server is currently on a cable connection. Read the whole post.

slaf

03-11-2005, 04:10 AM

Coth -> I read the whole post, I know your server is on a cable. My reply was more a joke than anything else. :(

Cotharyus

03-11-2005, 07:17 AM

Oh - sorry, I was in a bad mood most of yesterday, and I know I should avoid the internet at all costs when I'm in a bad mood, but I didn't. to the price is I have to appologize for being *****.

That *is* kinda funny though. Even more humorous is the fact that if I do put a server in that facility, it'll have the OC-3 and the backup lines. A meager 3 DS-3's. Yea, I'm going to try and put a system in there, but only if the price is right.

On another note, it's time for a new set of racing tires for my MGT. I'm going to get more bowties, but the question is about the rims. You see, I discovered tha the holes in the stock wheels allow you to adust the camber of the wheels while the wheel is on, rather than having to take them off like you do with the Velocity rims. So I may try a different rim.

MikeWz

03-11-2005, 07:33 AM

Coth - Maybe some of the Clawz. Not sure how well they'll hold up, but apparently they're the lightest rims next to the Velocitys (just what I've heard, haven't actually weighed them myself so it could be totally inaccurate). I was thinking about trying those new Losi racing tires. As long as you don't race on a super high bite track they look like they'll be better than the bow-ties (probably not as light though :o ).

slaf

03-11-2005, 07:36 AM

Coth -> For home I have a ADSL (5Mb in and .5Mb out) and for the job we have a T3. I can't complaint about speed at both places :) Did you try to put your videos on ******.net ?

Now for the wheels. As you should know Velocity are what most racers use but I bought RPM Clawz StableMaxx for my Zombie tires. I really like them, they look stronger than Velocity and they are lighter (1-2g each wheel, I don't remeber exactly).
But for racing, Velocity are better looking but I never heard someone winning race with a better looking truck :)

Unfortunately, I glued my tires before I read the last RC Nitro magazine. They flip tire inside out and they roll 1 1/4 turn of 1.5' wide docktape on the tire. This is to prevent tire baloonning. Seem to be a nice tip.

slaf

03-11-2005, 07:39 AM

I searched tru my posts....

Velocity wheels -> 43g
RPM Clawz -> 42g

I think Clawz has .5" more offset

Coth -> You can check my web site in the Misc section. I collected alot of information about tires and wheels.

slaf

03-11-2005, 07:56 AM

Also the Maximizer Beadlock, they look nice, they can be use many times but need special ring for Bowties. I don't know their weight.

http://www.maximizerproducts.com/bead.html

Monsterbrad

03-11-2005, 10:33 AM

Those rims are sweet
I would like to have some off set ones and some losi zombie maxx tires.
I wonder how tough they are on the track and it the tire will stay in the beed!

Saboteur

03-11-2005, 10:38 AM

Just saw a vid with Savage powered by an Ofna/Picco .26. WOW! Now I'll surely get that engine along with the FOC. Hope I can get a good deal from the LHS guys. :D

Monsterbrad

03-11-2005, 10:44 AM

Hey sab
I have heard that engine is kinda on off power band like the Mach 26 is a little.
Just so you know
I have heard that the new sh 28 thats in the new XTM big buggy is a very good eninge and will walk most 26's for the money its worth lookin at the sh 28 from XTM!

Saboteur

03-11-2005, 10:55 AM

Sounds good. How is it compared to the other .28s out there? I don't want anything overkill, but something reliable and strong enough for some good 40mph fast acceleration+ kidna action. The sav looked to be pretty powerful and have good power though in that vid? :confused:. BTW, this is just for bashing. :)

Monsterbrad

03-11-2005, 11:31 AM

I am just telling you what Bill at Speed Zone told me
He likes the engine and if he likes it it has to be good.
I would buy one!
He told me it makes great power and is super reliable!

Cotharyus

03-11-2005, 12:04 PM

So I was at the LHS today, and they had a couple of sets of stock MGT wheels in. Since I've been hounding this guy to get some MGT parts (there are a couple of us in the area that run them, and we usually have to order parts) I figured I would go on and get them. I'm after the new Losi tire myself, but it's not available yet. But I'll have rims for them when I get them, and the LHS has now sold the only MGT parts I've ever seen up there, so maybe he'll start to get some more stuff.

slaf

03-11-2005, 12:22 PM

Coth -> Do you know stock MGT wheels weight ?

slaf

03-11-2005, 12:25 PM

Sab -> Ofna/Picco has a new engine...The .27 looks nice too. Personally, I'm still waiting for a new OS big block...

Saboteur

03-11-2005, 01:55 PM

Yeah I saw that new .27. Looks cool. :)

Monsterbrad

03-11-2005, 02:35 PM

Is OS going to release the new BB in the states????
If so where are the pics and when????

slaf

03-11-2005, 07:28 PM

No I just emailed OS to know if they will release a new BB for our monster trucks....

And the answer was...

Hello,

Thank you for your recent e-mail. Unfortunately, I do not show any
plans for a new big block to be released in the near future.

Hope this answers your questions

Sincerely,

Saboteur

03-11-2005, 09:04 PM

Ah well..back to the Ofna/Picco .26 :)

MikeWz

03-11-2005, 09:29 PM

Back to the FR-27 :p (I may as well work for Fantom)

Cotharyus

03-11-2005, 09:32 PM

slaf - I don't have the weight, but I can tell you that a set of stock rims are heavier than velocity rims just from holding a set of each in my hands. I figure at some point I'm going to have to sacrifice some weight somewhere for performance (my pipe!) strength (??) or simplicity (wheels?). Besides, if the difference isn't that much, I'll find a way to take the extra weight off somewhere else ;)

Saboteur

03-11-2005, 09:34 PM

Back to the FR-27 :p (I may as well work for Fantom)

Probably should. :)

Monsterbrad

03-11-2005, 09:40 PM

Weight has always been such an issue with racing.
How about more power and less worry about weight?
I have noticed that this truck is not as heavy as the LST but then again I have not weighed them either.
I am impressed with this truck though its a great basher.
I was thinking about trying it on the track with some different wheels and tires just for the fun of it.

metalry101

03-11-2005, 10:44 PM

Hey guys...new MGT owner! I've had it since Monday and I've already got almost half a gallon through it. However...I broke it today...so I have some questions...

Better rear skid? There's gotta be something better than the joke of a stock one. Seriously, what crackhead engineer came up with the idea of putting rigid skids and bumpers on the truck instead of flexible ones that...well...flex to absorb impact. What a joke. The material is awesome, but the concept of a rigid rear skid absorbing the impact of a 12 lb. truck landing on the rear bumper from 6 feet in the air is just moronic IMO. Obviously this is driver error, but every other truck on the market has energy absorbing skids and bumpers, so I want those on mine.

Best shocks? I blew a rear shock cap on a really bad landing today and I want to put good new shocks on this thing. I've got Integy piggybacks on my E-Maxx and I know that Maxx shocks and MGT shocks are interchangable, but I'm wondering what other people run. I've heard the Dynamite shocks are sweet (because they're Losi shocks, and Losi shocks rock), and that they're fairly cheap, but I've only heard that from one person. Obviously the Powerstrokes are sweet, but they're not cheap. If they're worth it even for bashing I'll consider them though. I love my Integys, but they're not cheap either. I know Big Bores are good shocks, but I don't really care to support Traxxas. They make good stuff...but I'd rather support someone else, Traxxas has enough fans already. Anything else worth looking at?

Weight saving mods? I've got the FOC on order, and I figure some sort of aftermarket rear skid will shave some weight since the stocker isn't light by any means. What else? Other than tires? I like my ground clearance, especially since I run the suspension fairly soft and low (arms level). I've been looking at aftermarket chassis' and honestly, the Hardcore one looks to be the best bang for the buck. It's not cheap, but it looks to be extremely high quality. Anybody run it? Is it worth it or should I go for the AE FT one? Or is there another company that makes something quality?

I've already pulled the stock junk radio and slapped in my 3PM, but I have yet to pull the stock servos. The steering servo seems to do an adequate job, but the throttle servo on the other hand...well...let's just say I broke a ton of stuff today because the thing wouldn't even brake in mid-air so that I could rotate the truck. The only way the braking on my truck could get worse is if it accelerated upon braking instead of doing nothing. So...what's the best upgrade for that? I'm trying to decide if I can afford a new steering servo, in which case I'll migrate the stock steering servo to throttle duty, which I'm assuming will solve the problem, but in the mean time, are their any aftermarket discs that you guys would reccomend? The AE Robo disc perhaps? It's 16 bux, so I figured I'd hold off until I figure out what's worth my money. Does the stock one stop the truck like a champ when it's got a torquey servo pullin on it? If so then I'll just get a 5645 to steer the truck and have the stock steering servo do throttle/brake duty.

Durability mods? I don't hit everything in site like a lot of newbs, but I do enjoy airing the truck out, which means hard landing will be unavoidable (at least until my piloting skills improve). So far I've managed to toast the rear shock tower, rear skid/bumper brace, and a front knucke. That's in 4 days. Granted I have driven it a lot and driven it hard for those 4 days, but that's almost as much as I've broken on my E-Maxx in 4 years. The knuckle seemed to be a fluke thing, and I plan on putting RPM knuckles on anyways, if nothing else for the bigger bearings. The rear shock tower would have broken on any truck on the hit it took, but I'm wondering if they hold up well to other abuse or if something aftermarket would be wise. The a-arms seem to hold up fine, especially since I don't smack too many things...although there are a lot of stray baseball and bigger sized rocks where I run, so hopefully I can avoid encounters with those, as I'm sure a full speed hit would result in some carnage. On the hit that broke the knuckle I also bent the turnbuckle. I've never bent a turnbuckle on my Maxx, or my LST (only had it two weeks, but it's been used as hard or harder than the MGT so far, and I've broken less), so I'm wondering if they're fairly weak or if I really really torqued on it. Titanium is always the way to go, but I'm not sure if I want to spend the money ATM unless they're a common breakage (or bendage?) point.

Lastly...performance upgrades. I didn't expect the truck to be stupid fast like my LST, but I was hoping for at least some decent low end punch, and so far, I've been very disappointed in that area. It starts easily and tunes easily, but it doesn't have the low end I was hoping for. Top end is enough for where and how I use it, but wheel spinning torque would be nice. I already bought the 14T bell, so hopefully that will help a little, and I'm hoping eliminating rotating mass via the FOC will help a bunch too, but what else can I do? I know smaller tires would effectively gear it down considerably, but I'm happy with the stockers for the time being. I've heard the THS 1/8 on-road pipe is the way to go, as it will bolt right up, and THS pipes are the best, but what do you guys run? My shop (I work in a hobby shop) has sold a ton of THS pipes for Savages, and I've seen them in action, they certainly do help out considerably, but I'm not sure if their 1/8 on-road is the best pipe on the market for the MGT.

So far I've got the 14T bell that I'm installing tonight, and the FOC and FT steering upgrade on order. Are their any other mods that I need right off? I also plan on putting Mugen aluminum clutch shoes in it...hopefully this is a 3 shoe clutch...haven't even looked yet. I'm assuming that if they bolt in, those shoes will make a big difference on my low end punch...but that's assuming they bolt in...

Anyways...I'm sure this is more reading that you guys wanted to do...but any advice would be appreciated!

slaf

03-12-2005, 05:37 AM

metalry101 ->

First...Welcome :)

Better rear skid? Hardcore racing look nice but I never heard any good or bad comment. In fact, I never heard any comment about any skid remplacement....:)

Best shocks? ....Alot of people convert their stock shock to Factory shock. Just buy the Factory shock bodies and shock caps. I heard alot of good comment about this setup. Some people just install the Factory shock caps on the stock plastic shock bodies.

Weight saving mods? To save weight you can cut shock reservoirs, cut mud guard side, install foc and lighter tire/wheels combo, get lighter pillow balls and hingepins. The Factory chassis is 1.7oz lighter than the stock. I think, it's doesn't worth the $$. Hardcore is a very good choice for a new chassis.

For better brake, replace the little spring near the adjustment nut near the brake lever with fuel tube. You'll have more brake. You can check my web site http://pages.globetrotter.net/rc10gt there is some tips maybe that should help you.

I run my MGT for a long time and I never broke any knuckle, shock tower as you did. I can't help you in this department.

For more power, alot of people droped Mach 26 engines, Wasp 28 or Ofna/Picco 26. XTM 24.7 and Fantom 27 are good choices too. I heard good comments for SH 28 too. But without changing engine, if you install foc, remove extra weight, fine tune your engine the stock .21 can give good performance, not as a LST but very good performance....

Cotharyus

03-12-2005, 07:32 AM

metalry - Like slaf said, welcome. I've had my MGT for about a year, and put it through a hard season of racing. Here's what I've come up with.

Rear skid - I assume you mean you broke the screws that hold the rear bumper and the brace together? If so, join the crowd. I did that within the first week as well. My solution? Take four zip ties, and zip tie it back together. It'll hold for most things, but if you hit it hard again, it'll break the zip ties. Then you just re-ziptie it.

Shocks - Factory team. I blew out several stock shocks last year racing, so far since I've upgraded to the FT shocks, I haven't had a problem.

If you want to cut weight on the truck by changing the chasis, the Hardcore chasis is not the way to go. It's actually heavier than the stock chasis. So either bite the bullet and pay for the FT chasis, or break out your drill press and dremmel tool and cut some holes in the stocker.

Other ways of saving weight? You've got the best one on order, the FOC. Its *amazing* what taking a half a pound out of the tranny will do for that truck.

As for the knuckle and shock tower - I've busted one shock tower. I blew out a shock on the face of a big table top, and landed the truck rotated about 150 degrees around - in other words it was moving forward at about 25 mph, and falling down from a height of 6 or 8 feet, and landed right on the rear shock tower. Knuckles, I break all the time. Well, not all the time, but I've broken 3 of them. I also bent the stock turnbuckles but I bent them back straight several times without any problem, though I have replaced them now with Lunsford Ti turnbuckles.

Power. About the pipe - get a fantom pipe. I run the two chamber rpm pipe on my truck with an OS .21 RG and win races against .25 and .26 powered Savages and the like. Track races, not drag races. Although my percentage of hole shots is up there too.

kurrz

03-12-2005, 09:36 AM

Hey guys quick question what company makes AE radios and what types of ends are compatible to plug into the receiver im building my own receiver packs and am ordering today so i need to know what ends to get thanks.

metalry101

03-12-2005, 10:20 AM

All radio leads are the same nowadays. It's always ground/positive/signal. All you need is the ground and positive part so just make sure you plug it in the same way. BTW, they're made by Ace, I think?

metalry101

03-12-2005, 10:24 AM

Thanks for the info guys! I put the Mugen aluminum clutch shoes in last night, so hopefully I'll get to test the truck out tonight or tomorrow to see how they help.

As for my broken shock tower, that was because I landed right on it from about 12 feet. Not a poor design or weak part by any means, so no complaints about the shock tower. I blame poor driving on my part and no braking (couldn't get the truck to rotate at all, hence why it landed like that even though it had all day to try). As for the knuckle, I think that was a fluke thing, because I didn't hit anything...but we'll see.

As for those screws, that is exactly the part I toasted on the rear skid/bumper. I'll try out that zip tie idea, as that sounds like an excellent one. Thanks for the tip!

I'd write more but I gotta go to work, but thanks for the advice so far!

MikeWz

03-12-2005, 10:29 AM

Pretty sure the stock battery end is a BEC end, yes? Otherwise, airtronics fits in there (as far as servos and stuff go). Airtronics uses a Z connector which means anything with Futaba, JR, Hitec and some other smaller brands (Tower etc...) will work with it.

Monsterbrad

03-12-2005, 11:27 AM

Welcome metal
sounds like you are putting the truck through the paces already.
What temp are you running the stock engine at?
Mine seems to make decent power not like the Mach but decent power.
I smashed the front bumper pretty good but its just missing half now.
The rear bumber has seen some crashings but not that bad yet seeings how its still freakin winter up here in PA.

MikeWz

03-12-2005, 12:46 PM

Can somebody do me a favor and post a picture of their steering linkeage? For some reason, mine is acting stupid. I took it off, and I can't get it back on the way I swore I took it off :o

kurrz

03-12-2005, 12:48 PM

Thanks guys no running here 12 inches of snow last night weve got over 2 foot on the ground and getting more tonight

Monsterbrad

03-12-2005, 12:51 PM

sounds like winter needs to FREAKIN END :mad:
warmth sounds so nice!

Cotharyus

03-12-2005, 01:08 PM

Hah! I've been working outside this morning in short sleeves. It's downright nice. I'm actually considering grabbing the mountainbike and hitting the trail here in a few minutes.

Ozzy

03-12-2005, 02:46 PM

Hey guys, a few quick questions.

Pipe- Where can i find the fantom pipe? Any good pipes at tower hobbies? I prefer to get most of parts from there because my lhs is overpriced and the customer service sucks. I ask some questions and they seem irritated when i do. I get frustrated because they make me feel stupid, charge me alot, and they act like a bunch of %$##%^$#. How about this pipe from tower http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBYG2&P=7

I have the stock engine and want something with performance gain, and a bit quieter would be nice.

Also, the steering kit from TA, i am installing it now but i dont understand what i have read about no servo saver on the servo. How do i hook up the servo to the steering linkage. Any photos?

Thanks

slaf

03-12-2005, 02:47 PM

I use stock servos with airtronics receiver. I had to cut the tab on the servo connector. Otherwise it fits A1 !

PS: I just finished with the snowblower.....Please don't talk about sun and hot weather :) ahahahahah

slaf

03-12-2005, 07:04 PM

Ozzy -> I got mine used on EBay for 25$. The guy still selling some used Fantom pipe...

metalry101

03-12-2005, 08:48 PM

Alright I checked out that Fantom pipe and I think I'm sold. Just to clarify, it's FAN20016 or FAN20017, depending on which finish I like more, right? It sounds expensive...but since I work in a hobby shop I think I can deal.

As for the question about the temps I run at...usually when I temp it it's somewhere around 230. Sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less, but usually somewhere in that neighborhood.

As for this engine...I'm still not real happy. It really screams when you get it wound up, but it seems to take a while to get into it's powerband. I'm really loving the top end...but the bottom end is just gutless. Hopefully the FOC and pipe will help to lessen that weakness, as other than that, it's plenty strong enough for me. If it's not, maybe I'll have to buy the OS. All the guys at the shop want me to buy the Picco .26, and they're mean for sure, but if I did what they wanted me to do, I'd own a Savage instead of this beast.

Well...that's it for tonight's news. So far I really really really really really love this truck. It's incredibly tough, and it just runs like a champ. I've already got some upgrades on order for it, like the FOC, and FT steering (servo mounted servo savers are just not cool, and must be eliminated from all of my vehicles ASAP in favor of bellcrank style ones). Hopefully I don't try anything too insane with my truck tomorrow, as I really really wanna drive it a ton.

Oh ya...one more thing. Someone said that the Hardcore chassis is heavier than stock...but is it heavier than the stock chassis and the side guards? I ask because the Hardcore chassis replaces both of those. I'm too poor to upgrade something like that right now, because, well...it doesn't need it.

Oh...last thing...mad props (ya...I'm white, what can I say?) to AE for including a super-stout body with the truck. I'm not real big fan of the generic styling, but it looks pretty good and it takes one HELLUVA pounding.

Monsterbrad

03-12-2005, 09:03 PM

Thats for sure I am still surprised the pounding that the body can take.
Its super thin and just keeps comming back for more.
way better then the LST body thats for sure!

Cotharyus

03-12-2005, 09:03 PM

The FOC and the pipe will let you tune the stock engine to where you can almost wheelie the truck if the surface you're on has good bite.

My understanding is that the hardcore chasis (meaning side guard replacements, etc) is heavier than the factory chasis (meaning all stock parts the hardcore chasis replaces). I have not verified this by weighing the parts myself, as that would mean I would have to buy the hardcore chasis - but I *did* recieve the information from a reliable source....that is someone that *had* bought the hardcore chasis.

If you think that little thin body will take a beating, you should check out one of those .060 proline bodies...:)

metalry101

03-12-2005, 09:30 PM

I'm going to get one of the Pro-Line bodies...I just haven't decided which one yet. I really really like the looks of the Crowd Pleazer, but it might look kinda funny with the stock tires. I might get it anyways though. I also like the '04 F-150...so I think I might get that one too. As for the FOC and the pipe...well...I'll have to run out to the shop tomorrow and order that pipe.

As for the chassis...I think I might buy it anyways because I'm already not a fan of the plastic side plates. They seem to be alright except for the fact that they flex a bit...and if my servo is going to be mounted there, I don't want flex, especially since I'll be putting the 5645 that I bought tonight in there.

In other news, I also bought the Motorsavers filter so that I can keep this engine around for a while.

Monsterbrad

03-12-2005, 09:58 PM

I have the Crowd Pleazer body its cut for the LST.
I was thinking about the new CHevy HD body for this truck seeings how the stock body resembles a Chevy.
I am a fan of both so I like the new F-650 also looks really cool!

Ozzy

03-12-2005, 11:33 PM

What about the steering kit from TA, i am installing it now but i dont understand what i have read about no servo saver on the servo. How do i hook up the servo to the steering linkage. Any photos?

Thanks

Chevy-SS

03-13-2005, 06:39 AM

Can somebody do me a favor and post a picture of their steering linkeage? For some reason, mine is acting stupid. I took it off, and I can't get it back on the way I swore I took it off :o

Pics of steering at this page:
http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/maxsteering.htm

slaf

03-13-2005, 08:49 AM

Ozzy, you will need a servo arm. A good one is from Ofna...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHZE3&P=ML

kurrz

03-13-2005, 09:00 AM

Hey guys thanks for the tip on plugging into the AUX. on the receiver the servos have much more power and the throttle servo seems quicker great free upgrade. Whoever figured that out is a genious!

jphebert

03-13-2005, 10:24 AM

Metalry101 here is a pic of my MGT with the Crowd Pleazer body with the stock tires on. Just to give you an idea what it looks like. I will be removing the stock tires and using bowties for racing.

kurrz

03-13-2005, 05:23 PM

Is there any reason to have the pull start on the truck 9 times out of ten i use the drill start and today the pull start pulled out and i cant seem to get it to work again also my steering servo seems to have junked out. Any help appreciated.

MORTER MAN

03-13-2005, 05:30 PM

my crowd plezer is better :p :D http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-9/826985/FLAMESSIDESNOW.jpg

slaf

03-13-2005, 05:37 PM

Kurrz -> I always use my pullstart and never used the drill start. How long did you pull the rope ? You should never pull more than 1ft.

For your servo, did you try to test it without the servo saver installed. Maybe some dirt in your pillow balls or in the steering mechanism

kurrz

03-13-2005, 05:54 PM

There isnt much more than a foot there and i cant get the recoil to work properly so could i just do away with the pullstart? I had a bad day! Oh well thanks for the replies.

Monsterbrad

03-13-2005, 07:48 PM

I kinda like the pull start option cause when I take the truck out for a bach session I can still start it if I forget my LST starter.
But when the stock engine is gone it will be a pull start only probably.

slaf

03-13-2005, 07:55 PM

Check this MT race ! This the dirt race....

http://www.teamxray.net/downloads/video/theDirt2005/RCAMERICA_A_Mt.wmv

Ozzy

03-13-2005, 08:19 PM

Salf - Thanks for the info on the steering arm. I am going to order it tomorrow. Do you or does anyone know of a good pipe that Tower Hobbies has for the stock .21 (more power and hopefully quiter)?

MikeWz

03-13-2005, 08:40 PM

Chevy - I need a close-up or something of how it attaches to the Servo, I didn't see one on the site, although I may have missed it. Forwhatever reason, it seems like the rod-end on the ball joint is hitting the servo saver, so I can't put a screw through it all. It's hard to explain via keyboard, but basically because of that the ball joint is angled, so the screw won't go straight through. Since this is happening the screw isn't coming out all the way through and I can't put the nut on now. You know what I'm saying???

Cotharyus

03-13-2005, 08:42 PM

Ozzy

03-13-2005, 08:45 PM

Coth - Thanks a million. I will go there right now. Any special mods for fitting the pipe or will it fit in the stock position? I was also looking at the side mount and buying the AE side header, but i dont know what will work or not and with what type of if any modification?

Thanks again

Ozzy

03-13-2005, 08:51 PM

Coth - Do i want this one for the MGT https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN20025 or the other .21 dual chamber?

Monsterbrad

03-13-2005, 09:22 PM

Those are nice pipes.
But here is the question?????????
Do they make that much difference with the stock 21????????
also have to buy a side header for the truck!

MORTER MAN

03-13-2005, 10:04 PM

Ozzy - about the pipe. Do yourself a favor, and skip everything that Tower has. Go to http://www.stormerhobbies.com and click on the Fantom link. Scroll down to the fantom pipes, and either get the two chamber rpm pipe ( I run this on my MGT ) or the single chamber torque pipe (which at least one person here is running). These are, bar none, the two best pipes money can buy in my opinion.

While almost all fantoms pipes rock my sox, I will have to disagree about tower not having any thing good. I just got a savage ribed pipe it is gave that TT.21 SOOOOOOO much more low end torq and 3+mph [radar tested by a cop friend o mine] and at 30 bucks there a good deal.
JMO :cool:

MORTER MAN

03-13-2005, 10:08 PM

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=ASC20500 look at those pics. Whats with that? that MGT looks alot diffent. Black tuned pipe differnt cooling head and white gears. WHats wit hthat? did they make a new version?

metalry101

03-13-2005, 10:28 PM

While almost all fantoms pipes rock my sox, I will have to disagree about tower not having any thing good. I just got a savage ribed pipe it is gave that TT.21 SOOOOOOO much more low end torq and 3+mph [radar tested by a cop friend o mine] and at 30 bucks there a good deal.
JMO :cool:

Hmm...since I'm poor ATM, maybe I'll try that pipe out on my truck. I'm looking for more low end, a lot more low end.

MORTER MAN

03-13-2005, 10:36 PM

if you do get it you might want to relocate the switch. It's hard to get too it other wise. Oh and you will need a side exhuatst manifold, Blue looks betetrs ;)

MikeWz

03-13-2005, 11:16 PM

Morterman - It's just a Delrin spur gear. The pipe looks to me like it's the composite POS pipe that came on the Traxxas' Pro .15 engines. The head looks to be the same head, only anodized darker. It looks like it actually matches all the other blue anodized parts that are on the truck. I'm pretty sure that's just the "concept" truck that AE had released pictures of before they actually started producing the truck.

Metal - Honestly, I didn't think the Savage pipes were all that impressive. My friend put on on his RTR, and it didn't really seem to make much of a difference. The tuning seemed to be correct too, as both he and I played with it and there was the proper amount of exhaust coming out. It also sounded right and we got it to the point just before leaning it out anymore would hurt performance and then backed out an 8th turn. I couldn't really tell much of a difference in either the top or the bottom, honestly. It is a fair bit quieter though. Ribbed pipes used to be real popular on the race scene (eg, Paris pipes), but they've diminshed greatly recently.

metalry101

03-14-2005, 12:18 AM

Hmm...I guess I'll see how much it costs me and then decide whether or not it's worth a shot. I'll probably just stick with the stock exhaust right now since I'm really poor atm. I need to have enough money left for my FOC and FT steering.

kurrz

03-14-2005, 04:53 AM

Can someone tell me if its ok to not reinstall the pull start thanks.

slaf

03-14-2005, 05:06 AM

Kurrz -> If you use the pullstart than you should reinstall it. I'm always starting my truck with the pullstart I can't live without :)

Metalry101 -> I have a Fantom pipe (FAN20025) and I really like it. I installed on the side with the Factory side header and I have no problem with the on/off switch. I bought this pipe used (25$) from a guy on Ebay. If you read previous posts, you'll see how I installed everything.

Cotharyus

03-14-2005, 06:59 AM

ozzy - if you get the pipe you listed, it should mount in the stock location. If you get the other pipe, you'll *have* to side mount it, because it's too long to mount across the back.

To be honest, I talked to a lot of people about pipes before I bought mine. One of the most recommended pipes as the Savage ribbed pipe, but the problem was, people kept telling me "yea, its a great pipe, and it made some difference, but not like night and day". Well, when you put a pipe on an engine and it drops the running temp 25 degrees with a slight drop off in performance, then you retune the engine, and it's like a whole new engine - that's a night and day difference, that's what I got from the Fantom pipe, and to me, anything else from a "high performance pipe" would be less than acceptable. Which is why I said what I said about the pipes tower has. No one has ever told me about a pipe making as much difference as the fantom pipe did on my truck.

rcguy132

03-14-2005, 07:26 AM

can someone hook me up with some MGT/Savage Vids. I already checked the factory sites. (I'm trying to decide between the two :confused: :confused:

slaf

03-14-2005, 07:38 AM

RCGUY132 -> I think you should not decide between both trucks just by watching videos.... You better tell us what do you plan to do with those trucks....Bashing...Racing. with this information we'll be able to help you more....

rcguy132

03-14-2005, 09:40 AM

Well, I want something super durable, that jumps good, and is easy to tune.

MikeWz

03-14-2005, 09:50 AM

If you get on soon, you can check this one out, it's at $25 right now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5962826193&rd=1

Ozzy

03-14-2005, 11:38 AM

Thanks for the help with the pipe. I am going to try the guy on ebay and if no dice I will try stormer hobbies.

Has anyone put a Venom speedmeter on their MGT to see what kind of gains they are achieving with different mods?

I just got one and I want to install it but it may be a few weeks. Also, any comments on the venom mini temp thing?

Slaf - I think i read a while back that you do not recommend using sealant on the motor for the backplate and carb etc. because the sealant may actually cause corossion. Is it true? I couldn't find the post I thought I remember reading that.

slaf

03-14-2005, 12:11 PM

Ozzy -> I never talked about sealant...:( But I can confirm that I never has to used sealant on my TT .21.

I bought my tuned pipe from the same guy as Mike told you....You can trust him

1 Bad STi

03-14-2005, 12:44 PM

Hey everyone,

I was thinking of trading up one of my Savages for an MGT.
How are these trucks bashing and racewise?
Does anyone have any rules-of-thumb.

I know the stock motors are reilable, for I received one from a deal a while back and modified it use in my one of my savages temp.

Also, do these trucks gladly accept bigger motors w/out hurting the drivetrains? I own a handful of motors that I would like to try out(mach 26, xtm 24.7 pro, and xtm .28)

Thanks,
STi

Monsterbrad

03-14-2005, 01:21 PM

I know the XTM 28 engine you will have to mod the mounts and the engine just a little bit.
The other ones drop right in as fae as I know.
I am a fan of the MACH or Sport Werks 26 engine.

MORTER MAN

03-14-2005, 01:39 PM

can someone hook me up with some MGT/Savage Vids. I already checked the factory sites. (I'm trying to decide between the two :confused: :confused:

Monster GT vids *click me* (http://www.******.net/media.php?trick=Any&type=Video&limit=40&searchstr=monster+GT&time=1110829724&search=search)

kurrz

03-14-2005, 02:39 PM

Thanks for the reply i read in rcca that alot of racers are swiching to a roto start system and also taking out the pullstart would drop considerable weight from the stock set up. Well off to class

1 Bad STi

03-14-2005, 04:17 PM

Thanks for the info.

Ozzy

03-14-2005, 06:55 PM

Anyone know of a good cooling head for the stock .21? I am looking to buy asap but I know of the AE one for $42, an acncm one for like $30 or so and it HUGE, and there are few others Golden Horizons, etc.. Any suggestions or anyone with a good or bad experience with some. I am mainly looking for something to help decrease the temps. I live on AZ and I have reached some high temps that I don't want to see again. I tore apart the engine and everything looks good, compression is still good by a hand check, etc.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

slaf

03-14-2005, 07:19 PM

Ozzy -> If you install the Fantom tuned pipe, your engine temps will drop about 20-25F so you'll not need a better cooling head....This will make your MGT going like a crazy train....:)

1 Bad STi

03-14-2005, 07:53 PM

ANCNC heads are awesome. I run one on my xtm 24.7, dropped my temps about 20-30 degrees.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/SavageMulisha13/Nguyen%20Special%20Savage/IMG_0124.jpg

Ozzy

03-14-2005, 09:48 PM

Slaf - Thanks, I wil stick with the stock head and slowly save for an upgraded engine.

Anyone use the venom speedmeter or temp sensor? Any +'s or -'s.

fuzzy2133

03-14-2005, 10:07 PM

I use the Venom temp sensor. nice to see the High and low recorded temps. no real down side to it other than it is not easy to move from one vehicle to the next. just remember not to tune for a certian temp, the temp measurement is just to check if the engine is overheating or too cold. 220-260/280 is the most common recomended temp range.

metalry101

03-14-2005, 10:40 PM

Picked up my FOC tonight. Hopefully I can get the tranny all ripped apart and put back together tonight so that I can drive the truck tomorrow.

Oh yes...BTW, stay out of the water. I think I discovered why my brakes are so useless. No, the water didn't toast my disc. It just got in my tire foams and made my tires really really heavy. That's also really hard on my clutch, and it's making my take off slower because it adds sooooo much rotating mass. So, the moral of the story...don't rally your truck through 6" puddles like me!

Ozzy

03-15-2005, 01:15 AM

Fuzzy - Thanks, I am going to install one soon.

Also, what does it mean when your clutchbell starts to blue?

Cotharyus

03-15-2005, 05:51 AM

ozzy - your CB turning blue probly means you're clutch is slipping and heating things up.

slaf

03-15-2005, 07:01 AM

Ozzy -> Coth is right, check also if your engine is not idling a little bit too high or if your brake are not adjusted to tight...

MORTER MAN

03-15-2005, 09:35 AM

Hey ozzy I live in flagstaff, where you at?

Ozzy

03-15-2005, 07:08 PM

Hey ozzy I live in flagstaff, where you at?

i am in Mesa

Ozzy

03-15-2005, 07:09 PM

Do I need to replace the clutch shoes? How can you tell if they are worn?

slaf

03-15-2005, 07:18 PM

The clutch shoes are worn when they are broken, the holes are enlarged or simply worn out. Check also the springs to be sure they are not broke or out of shape.

Use a 300 grit sand paper and remove any residue on the shoes. Also clean the inside of the clutch bell...

Monsterbrad

03-15-2005, 08:14 PM

ozzy
Mesa AZ?
Thats cool lookin to maybe move there in June maybe!
Any way is the stock clutch in the truck the standard 3 shoe type???
I have not checked mine in over a gallon seems to be ok!

Saboteur

03-15-2005, 08:17 PM

Gonna try to get a drill soon to work on that engine.

metalry101

03-15-2005, 08:56 PM

Hey guys! I got the FOC in and my tires drained, but now I have a new problem. I can't get the engine up to temp. No matter what I do it won't run over 200 degrees. Most of the time it was running about 175-180. It ran well...but it's just not hot enough. I know it's gotta get over 200 to get proper expansion and clearances inside the motor, but it just wouldn't do it.

Anyways...I'll figure that out later. I've already got a bunch of hop-ups on order. Maybe I'll get some pics of my truck up some time...

slaf

03-15-2005, 09:00 PM

Metalry101 -> What's the temp outside when you run the truck ? Are you in the break in process ??? Sounds like you are running too rich....

Ozzy

03-15-2005, 09:45 PM

Yep, I am in Mesa, Az. Let me know if you move here.

My clutch is the stock. I have ran about a gallon and a half with no problems besides the initial two speed breaking. I just noticed that the clutchbell is blued and my temps run high. I have not ran it in a good four or five months. I have completely torn everything apart and I am doing a complete rebuild. I am going to install the venom speed meter and then make some changes to be able to measure the speed performance increase/decrease, and a temp meter for the same.

I have the following to install:
FOC
fantom pipe
aluminum steering
different clutch bells and spurs
tires/wheels
new body

already have:
aluminum FT shocks
rx pack

What kind of fuel and glow pugs is everyone running just out of curiosity?

I am in AZ and the temps get pretty high. Hopefully i can complete my rebuild in two to three weeks and start changing some parts out. I know I have other upgrades to install but for some reason I can' think of them.

Sorry about the long post, just really anxious to get this running again.

Mesa AZ?
Thats cool lookin to maybe move there in June maybe!
Any way is the stock clutch in the truck the standard 3 shoe type???
I have not checked mine in over a gallon seems to be ok!

slaf

03-15-2005, 09:47 PM

I'm running stock MC-59 or OS #8 glow plugs.

metalry101

03-15-2005, 10:04 PM

It's probably about 50 or 60 outside. I was in shorts and a t-shirt and I was comfortable (granted I'm that way when it's 30 and snowing too...but I think it was around 60. And I'm definately not on break in. I've got about half a gallon through the truck so far. Usually when I temp the truck while I'm running it, it sits around 230, but it just wouldn't warm up today. And it definately wasn't too rich, I kept leaning it out until it was dying on the top end. It just wouldn't warm up. The truck was flying, but it just wasn't warming up.

slaf

03-15-2005, 10:09 PM

Matalry -> I can't figure out why the engine was not warming up... Did you change something on the truck since your last ride ? Dis you change fuel ?

metalry101

03-15-2005, 10:15 PM

I didn't change a thing. Same fuel, same exact glow plug (still on the original plug) The only thing I can think of is the length of the stinger. I ripped that stupid rubber extension dealie off because it was shredded, so now it's just the pipe's metal stinger with no rubber extension. Other than that...just the FOC, but that shouldn't make it run that much cooler. It would ease the load on the motor...but it shouldn't cool it down by 50 degrees, so I'm stumped. I'll take it into work tomorrow and have my manager see if he can figure it out. He's been doing this for 10+ years and can tune pretty much anything, so he'll probably be able to figure it out. If he can't, maybe I'll try some 30% race fuel instead of the 20% RTR that I run right now. Both the 20% RTR and 30% Race fuels I mention are Odonnel.

slaf

03-15-2005, 10:20 PM

I heard that removing the stinger change engine temp. I can't tell you from my experience cause I changed the pipe and I never ran my stock pipe without the deflector.

Ozzy

03-15-2005, 10:53 PM

Slaf - Should I use a stinger with the fantom pipe?

slaf

03-15-2005, 10:57 PM

If the pipe is not side mounted, I think you should use it to keep rear end clean...

Ozzy

03-15-2005, 11:45 PM

Slaf - Thanks, I plan on mounting it on the side. So i do not need to use the stinger if it is side mounted? No performance changes, or at least noticeable?

slaf

03-15-2005, 11:48 PM

It's difficult for me to talk about performance gain, cause I never run the stock without deflector. But I can confirm that de Fantom pipe give to my stock .21 a good boost....:) This have not transformed my .21 into a screaming .28 engine but I saw a noticable power gain.

Ozzy

03-16-2005, 12:18 AM

Slaf- Thanks, so if run the pipe on the side, the rubber deflector is not necessary other than to spit or put the exhaust a little lower, right?

astainback

03-16-2005, 02:57 AM

I have a question...

I am going to get the MGT soon. I did really well on a couple of ebay auctions this past weekend!!

The fantom pipe from what I can tell is great on the stock engine...
What if I bump up to the mach .26 or the picco... or any other engine..
Is this pipe the one to keep for them all??

Also, and I know it isn't related to mgt's.. but I have read good things about the fantom pipe for the tmaxx... this isn't the same pipe for the 2.5 is it??

thanks,
adrian

astainback

03-16-2005, 03:29 AM

What are the model numbers for the pipes that you guys recommend again??
the guy on ebay doesn't post the model numbers.

thanks
adrian

Cotharyus

03-16-2005, 05:58 AM

slaf

03-16-2005, 07:38 AM

I think my tuned pipe is a bit shorter than Coth's one. And mine is single chamber.

Ozzy

03-16-2005, 09:31 AM

Astainback - Check ebay for the pipe. I just bought mine there for 25.00 brand new. I asked the seller (which you should do) which model number it was. He told me I could choose between the single or two chamber that i smade for the MGT. As soon as I get it, I can tell you the part number.

Saboteur

03-16-2005, 12:48 PM

Metal- How do you like the FOC unit on the truck? Really good?

metalry101

03-16-2005, 01:09 PM

Ya, I think it made a big difference. It's hard to say since my engine is all of a sudden not cooperating. The truck is every bit as fast as it was before, and acceleration seems to be improved...I think? I don't know. I'm definately happy that I did it, but I have yet to notice too much of a change. However, that might change once I get the engine to run over 200 degrees again.

Saboteur

03-16-2005, 01:12 PM

Ok. Lemme know once ya get it tuned right how much of a difference it made for you. May try to go to the LHS someday and get it. Still need that drill though. PS is still busted.

metalry101

03-16-2005, 02:37 PM

K, just got back from running it. Today it ran great, right about 220. I don't get it. I didn't change anything from last night. I put 2 or 3 tanks through it last night and it wouldn't get warm, today it ran like a champ. Whatever works though. The truck did seem to be a bit snappier to me now that I have the FOC in. I got the truck all sorts of muddy again, hopefully it stayed out of the tires...doubtful...but hopefully. Before I added a couple pounds in mud the truck was screaming. After that it wasn't nearly as punchy, but extra weight will do that to anything, so I dont' blame the truck for that.

As for whether or not I reccomend the FOC, well, it's 16 bux, shave almost 8 ounces off the truck's weight (about 5%), and it helps the reciever pack last longer because it only has 2 servos instead of 3 to power. Ya, I'd say it's worth every penny. Reverse is handy at times for sure, but it's not worth the hassle. You get used to driving without it.

Saboteur

03-16-2005, 03:06 PM

Yeah I haven't found much use for reverse. A good 360 is all you need. :)

MORTER MAN

03-16-2005, 06:13 PM

I uise my reverse sevral times to back oput of trouble. I run in alot of water/ mud and if it gets stuck reverse is my only way out. No way I am walking out there to get it! :D

slaf

03-16-2005, 07:25 PM

For bashing it's a good thing to have a reverse but for racing (where you need every grams and hp) their is no place for reverse.

Here few guys wanted to start a RC club at the BMX track, beleive it or not, the first mod they made to race their Savage was adding the reverse module.... :eek: :eek: :eek:

astainback

03-16-2005, 07:39 PM

No, the fantom pipe we're recommending isn't the one for the 2.5, the ones we talk about are all big block pipes, and will work fine with .21's or .27's or whatever. The pipe I rave about his here:

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN20016

The pipe slaf is talking about his here:

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN20025

And then there's always this pipe if you just want to stand the truck up off the line:

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN20014

Thanks for the info!!
I got curious last night and emailed fantom some questions. I found the guy on ebay, and I put a bid in for a pipe.
I asked the fantom guys what was the difference between the MGT pipe and the .21 pipe. He said nothing but the mount placement.
He said that they were the same. Well, the MGT pipe is a single chamber high torque pipe. They dont' have the MGT pipe on their site, just the .21 pipes with the mount on the end.
How big of a difference is the torque pipe over the rpm pipe??
If I had the torque, and you had the rpm pipe, how would that compare as far as speed off the line vs. max speed and wheelies.. will the high torque give instant wheelie??

thanks,
adrian

MikeWz

03-16-2005, 07:43 PM

Adrian - The torque pipe will, as it implys, increase torque. Torque is low-end power, so you'll get a bigger speed gain in the low-end, though you do get a top-speed gain over the stock pipe because the stock pipe was a 1/10th pipe and is too small. The Dual-chamber pipes will smooth out the power-band, and pulls the power up into higher RPMs. It won't accel as fast as an engine with the single chamber pipe, but the power will probably be a bit more controllable (though I don't have a problem with mine) and will open up on the top-end some more

metalry101

03-16-2005, 10:20 PM

I've got both pipes on order so I should be able to tell you which one I prefer for the stock engine soon. I'm not sure when they'll get here, but I'm hoping for Friday. Also, thanks for the info on the MGT pipe. I didn't know that it was the same as the single chamber, but now I do, thanx!

astainback

03-17-2005, 02:51 AM

Chevy-SS

03-17-2005, 07:49 AM

I have a bid in for one of the mgt pipes as well as a tmaxx pipe. I think I would rather have low end, considering I don't do a whole lot of high speed runs.

thanks guys, I will let you know when I get the mgt on order.

adrian

It sounds to me like you want a LOT more power, which is something that all of us almost always want, lol. If you want wheelie-poppin', parts-breakin' power, then you should upgrade to a .26 or larger engine right away. The stock .21 is great for bashing and learning the truck, but it just doesn't have enough sack.

slaf

03-17-2005, 07:54 AM

Chevy-SS -> Nice to see you back here :) What did you upgrade on your MGT to prevent "part-breaking-power? problem ? I know you race Ofna/ Picco .26, I was thinking about this mill or the new .27 version....

Saboteur

03-17-2005, 09:05 AM

Me too. That green heatsink makes it seem like its a monster :).

MikeWz

03-17-2005, 10:01 AM

Got that .27 Fantom the other day. Looks super nice, can't wait to pop it in the truck. What CB/spur combo are you guys with the .26+ engines running?

Cotharyus

03-17-2005, 06:31 PM

Mike - I've gone to an 17/49 on my truck, and even with the stock tires, it's not "slow" off the line. It's not fast either. That gearing with the bowties is pretty good with the OS .21, so you should be able to pull an 18/49 easily, and might even go for an 18/46.

metalry101

03-17-2005, 06:56 PM

Alrighty, got my Fantom pipe on today. I haven't run it in the dirt yet, but I just put a tank through it out in front of the house. It seems to be a little stronger now. It was hard to tell because my tires are all sorts of out of balance so it was hard to drive at speed, but it seemed to have more punch. I think I might buy some new tires for it tonight since the stockers don't seem to like me much. I can't decide what I want to get though. I'm kinda leanin towards Big Joes, but I don't want to spend that much, so I'm not sure. I might wait until tomorrow since I get paid. I'd go for something super-mean like Mulchers but I want the truck to sit up higher than that I think. Maybe I'll get them anyways, because they'll give me better handling and I'll never be at a loss for traction. Hmm...decisions, decisions, decisions...

MikeWz

03-17-2005, 07:21 PM

I think I'ma go with an 18/48 combo

Legacy

03-18-2005, 05:46 PM

Uggg. Just ordered one on Monday. Was hoping it would be here today so I can play this weekend. No such luck. Should be here on Monday. Just in time for my regional meetings at work (this equals no RC time).

Feel my pain.........

Ok, I'm being dramatic, but I'm so excited to get that truck!

kurrz

03-18-2005, 06:00 PM

Quick question what is really the best way to clean the air filter? And i am looking for a reasonably priced upgrade to give me a little more power maybe even a little wheelie action. So whats the verdict? Thanks in advance.

slaf

03-18-2005, 07:21 PM

To clean air filter I use dish soap and hot water and I reoil everything with Team Associated air filter oil...

kurrz

03-18-2005, 07:43 PM

Thanks Slaf do you just squeeze the water out or squeeze than let dry? If so how long does it take to dry. Thanks again

Cotharyus

03-18-2005, 09:02 PM

I squeeze the water out, same washing procedure. They take about a day to dry just sitting on a clean paper towel, but I have 5 sets of foams I rotate through, so usualy they sit around drying for a week or so.

Monsterbrad

03-18-2005, 11:11 PM

metal
try this with your tires!
Take them off the truck and squeez them down as far as you can and you will not believe the water you get outa the foams from the inside through the holes in the rims.
Thats why they are outa balance.
Check ebay for a new set of stockers they are cheap on there if you want.
Also the stock tires kinda suck but they work excellently for bashing!

VWVR6

03-19-2005, 12:57 AM

Anyone heard or better yet seen one of these roll cages from R/C HELIS PLUS. There is nothing on there web site at all about r/c cars but they sell roll cages for monster trucks.

astainback

03-19-2005, 01:33 AM

Fantom pipe won tonight on ebay for 25!!!
(I also got the tmaxx one for 26!!)

I should be ordering the MGT on monday. (maybe tuesday)

adrian

Monsterbrad

03-19-2005, 07:51 AM

anybody tried the titan wheels from rpm????

Legacy

03-19-2005, 10:57 AM

Fantom pipe won tonight on ebay for 25!!!
(I also got the tmaxx one for 26!!)

I should be ordering the MGT on monday. (maybe tuesday)

adrian

Do you know where you are ordering the MGT from?

Monsterbrad

03-19-2005, 04:19 PM

Call Bill at Speed Zone!
1-866-590-0763
He can hook you up with a good deal on a new MGT!
tell him Brad Pence told you to call him.
NOthing Runs Like a BIG BLOCK!

astainback

03-19-2005, 04:19 PM

Yep, i ordered it today from ultimate hobbies for 369.95.
I got the red one.
I was going to pick out a certain freq., but I remembered that I am going to get the JR xs3 pro soon, and I have a different set for my tmaxx, so I can change it around if i need to.

adrian

astainback

03-19-2005, 04:21 PM

are the titans supposed to be better than the clawz??
I wanted to get a set of dyeable offset clawz and some zombie maxx tires.
I was going to leave them white.

Monsterbrad

03-19-2005, 04:22 PM

Thats a good price!
I did a little bit better through Speed Zone though!
Enjoy your new truck they are awesome!
I just can't get over its taken this truck this long to get recognized!!!!!!

Saboteur

03-19-2005, 05:14 PM

Still no one has purchased an MGT for what I got mine for; $350! :D

rcguy132

03-19-2005, 07:15 PM

FROM WHERE :eek: :eek: :eek:

Monsterbrad

03-19-2005, 07:23 PM

Hey sabs
pay shipping?
just curious

kurrz

03-19-2005, 08:26 PM

Thanks for the replies i got to run the truck today and it ran excellent between 230-240 and keeps getting more powerful almost wheelies but it is LOUD will a aftermarket pipe help? Also my radio stopped working and then started again could water cause this?

metalry101

03-19-2005, 08:34 PM

Still no one has purchased an MGT for what I got mine for; $350! :D

I never mentioned what I paid for mine...

Thanks for the replies i got to run the truck today and it ran excellent between 230-240 and keeps getting more powerful almost wheelies but it is LOUD will a aftermarket pipe help? Also my radio stopped working and then started again could water cause this?

Wheelies? How'd u swing that? What setup are you running?

Yes, an aftermarket pipe will quiet it down. The Fantom pipe especially is really really quiet. Like I think my Jeep is louder than my MGT now. It's amazing.

Yes, water could cause radio problems like that.

astainback

03-19-2005, 10:37 PM

I paid 369.95... free shipping.

Saboteur

03-19-2005, 11:19 PM

BTW mine is brand new from the LHS. No tax or anything else.

kurrz

03-20-2005, 08:28 AM

Hey metalry i said almost wheelie with some spacers on the rear shocks on tar but, even in the dirt the front gets very light and the smallest pebble will get the front in the air. Also could you tell me which fantom you've got my wife says i'm going to piss off the neighbors. Also can any body tell me if a smaller clutch bell will increase acceleration? Thanks

metalry101

03-20-2005, 11:54 AM

Yes, a smaller clutchbell would help out acceleration.

As for the almost wheelies, umm...duh. I really should learn how to read some time. :D

I currently have the 20016 natural finish RPM pipe on it, but I'd imagine all of the Fantom pipes would quiet it down considerably. I think it probably has more to do with the material than the design. It might have a bit to do with both, but go with whatever pipe suits your power needs the best, as I would be willing to bet the torque pipe will be about as quiet.

And about those neighbors...who cares? Obviously you don't want to alienate your neighbors, because, after all, they are your neighbors, but they'll learn to deal or they can move. It's not any louder than a lawn-mower or a dirt bike or a school bus or even a freakin Cummins diesel, so they have no room to complain. If they don't like noise they shouldn't have bought a place in the city because that's part of living with 10,000 or 10,000,000 other people (depending on how big your city is obviously). Obviously driving your truck at seven in the morning or nine at night would be an exception to this, and then they would have room to complain, but I don't know of anywhere that bans them based on noise during normal daylight hours.

Monsterbrad

03-20-2005, 01:04 PM

I have to laugh :D
U guys talking about neighbors yelling at you about this.
My neighbor came flying out of her house phone in hand ready to call the police telling me to get a life get a girl friend and get a job!
That was funny.
We exchanged words for a few more minutes after that then we were done.
I say **** THE NEIGHBORS!
Having fun is more important!
I like the MGT just cause its so loud and it just makes me smile to think that that bitch is over there driving her self nuts over the sound.
Nothing like Nitro RC :)

kurrz

03-20-2005, 05:11 PM

Good post Brad that sums it up well thanks guys.

Cotharyus

03-20-2005, 05:44 PM

That's really funny...did I mention, my neighbor *is* the police. He think's my MGT rocks, and so does his 7 year old son.... :)

slaf

03-20-2005, 06:39 PM

I don't really have problem with my neihbor. My nearest neigbor is very funney and he like engine, sport car etc etc etc... So he really likes to see my RC's, I don't have any problem with him. I do prefer to have a good relation with my neighbors.

Ozzy

03-20-2005, 11:55 PM

Whats the best fuel brand recommendation at 20%?

Cotharyus

03-21-2005, 05:43 AM

Ozzy - I've used Sidewinders 20% racing blend, Red Alert 20%, White Lightning 20%, and I've got a bottle of unopened Trinity 20% race blend. The only difference I really noticed in any of these is where it pertains to oil content. In general, the higher the oil content, the safer you are, but the lower it is, the more punch you seem to get off the line. I've got at least 3 gallons of White Lightling through my RG and it still runs strong, so it's mostly just a matter of tuning properly.Beyond that, most of the name brand fuels seem to be as good as the next.

Chevy-SS

03-21-2005, 07:04 AM

We should all respect our neighbors. Nitro engine noise is an annoying howl and some pipes, like the stock AE, make it even worse. How would you like it if your neighbors kid was practicing drums all day, especially if he sucked? How about if they were playing loud disco music all day long? That would annoy everyone! There are a lot of non-nitro folks out there who find the noise just too much to take.

You may even annoy them enough so that they call the police, and the police may say there are no laws about it. Well, if you piss off the neighbor enough they will go to the local councilman,m who will suggest passing an ordinance banning said noise. If the council agrees, then the new ordinance is voted in and nitro vehicles are banned, simple as that. Don't laugh, this already happened in a number of municipalities just like yours.

So, if you want to motivate your neighbors into taking some action, then just keep pissing them off. I say, a much better solution is to find a spot to run your nitro engines where people are not going to be annoyed.

Saboteur

03-21-2005, 07:17 AM

I agree. If they say its too loud I just go to the park or where ever else they let me run it. However I do hate the fact that the ppl who tell me its too loud, is asleep at after 12pm midday, and blasts music 12AM in the morning!! :mad:

MTA4

03-21-2005, 07:18 AM

Disco music? :)

slaf

03-21-2005, 07:35 AM

In some european cities, it's forbidden to run nitro vehicle in cities....

slaf

03-21-2005, 07:37 AM

Coth -> I can't buy any of the brand you listed.... I bought Sidewinder race fuel 2 years ago and this was the last time I saw a "brand name" fuel here :(

Saboteur

03-21-2005, 07:55 AM

Disco music? :)

Rap, Reggae, Classic, Mo town, and some one across the street was Blastin the windows outta their house with this Country Music or whatever "Where did ya come from where did ya go? Where did ya come from cotten eye joe". So many ppl were dancin, singing, and laughing. I never sleep till 2am or so anyway so they are usually finished when I'm ready to go to bed. It's funk to throw stink bombs to break things up though. :D :rolleyes:

Monsterbrad

03-21-2005, 09:12 AM

Try Blue thunder 20% race formula
or Oddonnells 20% car
these are the 2 fuels I have been using for 16 + years and have never had a problem.
Oddonnells has less oil and is the faster fuel and the race formula is a great fuel also I just can not get it anymore so oddonnel it is.
race on !

Ozzy

03-21-2005, 10:23 AM

What about the Trinity monster brew? I have only tried the blue thunder, looking for a change.

Monsterbrad

03-21-2005, 03:22 PM

Blue thunder is great fuel.
I would stay away from the Trinity fuel.
There oil content is low and I have treid there fuel and lost a perfectly good RB .12 engine with that crap.
I would go with byron's
Odonnell's
Blue thunder
All 20%

MikeWz

03-21-2005, 03:22 PM

I love Trinity fuels. I use nothing but anymore. I tried BT and it left weird blueish crystals in my carb...so that scared me a bit (also my OS CV-X that I used it in died after a little over a gallon, but that was probably just a lemon engine). Trinity/HPI/Wildcat are all brewed by Wildcat and use Klotz oils, which, IMO is the best oil out there. Great fuel. I use Platnum for racing and Monster HP (monster brew) for bashing

Monsterbrad

03-21-2005, 04:29 PM

Well had the truck out today.
Clutch bell is blue
broke the front shock tower after a crazy but crash at high speed about 8-10 wicked flips and bent a rear tie rod comming down steps a littlt too fast.
For the most part the truck is awesome still.
The best part about all that is the truck still runs great but the clutch slipps a little once it gets hot.
what shoes and springs are you guys running????????

rcguy132

03-21-2005, 06:04 PM

I have 65 dollars to spend on my MGT. It's completely stock, and I want something for bashing, that will also be able to use it for racing if I decide to. Also, could a battery to a Firebird XL be used for a rechargeable reciever pack?

slaf

03-21-2005, 06:55 PM

MonsterBrad -> Your engine is maybe idling a little bit too high or your have brake binding. It's normal that the clutch bell comes a little bit blue. I still use stock shoes and spring for more than a gallon, nothing "blued".

RCGUY132 -> Rechargeable receiver pack (humppack) is a must. Get one and a "cheap" charger like SUperBrain 959 or Duratrax Pirhana. That's enough to charge any humppack at 1.0amp max. If you have a little more cash, I suggest the Forward Conversion kit if you plan racing.

Cotharyus

03-21-2005, 08:27 PM

Mike - OS CV engines never seem to last more than a gallon or so. The pinch just goes away in them. Everyone at my track agrees on this, and for some reason, CV-R's last much longer.

Brad - I've got something like 3 gallons on the stock shoes and springs. They're holding just fine for me.

MikeWz

03-21-2005, 08:59 PM

Coth - Lol...losing pinch is an understament. More like a broken crank ;). I won't buy a CV again...or blue thunder. That way, I avoid the problem all together. I'm pretty satisfied with Fantom when it comes to their off-road stuff, so I'll stick to that for off-road, and to either Sirio or Trinity/Picco for on-road

rcguy132

03-21-2005, 09:03 PM

slaf-which battery pack would you suggest

kurrz

03-21-2005, 09:21 PM

As far as packs go cheapbatterypacks.com makes great packs for cheap and they ship fast also i have a fuel question i have been using odonnell's 20% race fuel i only bash should i use the RTR fuel instead?

metalry101

03-21-2005, 10:01 PM

For just bashing I'd run the RTR fuel. It has a bit more oil in it. I think that's about the only difference, but it will help your engine last a bit longer probably. I've been running 20% RTR in mine, but my current gallon is almost gone, and I think I'm going to try a gallon of 30% RTR next to see if I can get a little more power still out of the stock engine. Not that it needs it, because I'm plenty happy with the way it runs now, but I want to try it anyways.

MikeWz

03-21-2005, 11:00 PM

It really doesn't make a huge difference. I ran Trinity Platnum (race blend) in my MT12 and I got just over 6 gallons through it, actually. And that was a combo of Race/Bash needle settings. You won't really notice a huge difference in engine life.

rcguy132

03-22-2005, 06:57 AM

http://www.unipros.com/cbpsite/customconfirm.asp how's this look?

rcguy132

03-22-2005, 06:58 AM

Sorry about that, but wha about this?

Custom Pack Information

Custom Pack ID: C-5-CBP750AA-16-OB-FJST
Cell Name: CBP750AA
Configuration: OFFSET BRICK
Number of cells: 5
Wire: 16A
Plug: FJST
Dimensions (approximate): 1.65 x 1.12 x 0.99 inches
Weight (cells only): 2.45oz

slaf

03-22-2005, 07:11 AM

RCGuy132 -> I use this humppack for my MGT and for my RC10GT

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT1&P=ML

I also use Venom humppack as spare pack-> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHUJ3&P=7

You can check this pack too -> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJRB1&P=7

Monsterbrad

03-22-2005, 07:47 AM

Ok
Here is what I think the clutch thing is.
Extended runs at very high speed through the grassy area next to my g/f apartment.
My freakin tires are also pretty heavy from the snow and water that got into the foams.
They are outa balance badly.
have to get rid of those that might help.
I have checked the drive train nothing seems to be binding.

rcguy132

03-22-2005, 08:28 AM

slaf- how do I charge the HPI pack w/a superbrain959, or can I just use a dynamite mega 1 charger I already have?

slaf

03-22-2005, 08:30 AM

RCGUY132 -> Just be sure your charger can charge NIMH @ 0.5amp or 1.0amp

Monsterbrad

03-22-2005, 06:23 PM

SO what are you guys charging your reciever packs at?????
amp?
volts?
Mv?
I charge mine at 1 amp Mv 10 or 15
seems to work well

Cotharyus

03-22-2005, 07:09 PM

When I tell you how I charge my packs, keep in mind I have a *very* high end charger left over from when I raced electrics, and I have an extensive knowlage of batteries and charging from when I used to match batteries.

I charge my packs (1200mah) at 1.2 amps, using a .02v peak detect. When my charger gets done the packs are warm - about 103F, but are very stable, lots of power, lots of run time.

A general rule of thumb would be never to exceed 1C charge rate (for instance, 1200mah is 1.2amp charge rate, 1000mah would be 1amp) and always use an apropriot peak detection setting if you are allowed to set one by your charger. For advance chargers, make sure you have the cell count right as well.

slaf

03-22-2005, 07:28 PM

I'm a an electric guru but I can tell you taht I charge all my humppacks with a SuperBrain 959 @ 1amp. This charger is well know for false peak detection on high capacities cell but for my humppacks he does a great job.

BTW, I had some problems with this charger, I sent it back under warranty to MRC and they returned it not repaired....I opened the case with one of my friend (a electronic guy recycled as a network admin) and we repaied the charger ourself. Be sure this was my last MRC charger....Circuit board was toasted we jumped 4-5 wires to repair it.

Monsterbrad

03-22-2005, 08:15 PM

Well those chargers are cheap thats all there is too it.
I have been using the one i have now for a couple years seems to be ok but I do get false peaks every once in a while.
But just start the charge over again and it seems to work great.
Cells are always warm not hot and I seem to get good run time outa them.
Hey guys can you please explain the Mv thresh hold setting a little for us that want to know.
I have heard that lower settings are better for NiMh cells around 10 or 15 depending but I have heard for the 1100 packs like in the one thats in the rc18t you can up that to make the charge hotter.
I don't like the sounds of that cause if you get the cells to hot they can vent and cause problems in the long run.
I have in the past charged cells till they vent and been ok but others have trashed them when they vent or hiss as some call it.
So Mv threshhold settings?????????

astainback

03-22-2005, 08:52 PM

So if the superbrain is not good, what do you think of the pirahna peak charger??

the ice charger??

I am looking at getting on for my rx packs, nicds, and minit batts.

Being able to do 2 packs at once seems nice, as well as discharge them.
What do you guys recommend?

Also, the chargers that do 2 packs at once.. are thy completely independant of each other or do you have to use 2 similar packs at once??

adrian

slaf

03-23-2005, 07:54 AM

I heard good things about Dynamite chargers....

Monsterbrad

03-23-2005, 08:03 AM

Some have had bad luck with the Super Brain.
I have been using one for a while now and it seems to be ok.
They have there new one out the its black can't remember the #'s.
Any way

Charging rates guys???????

MikeWz

03-23-2005, 03:22 PM

What charger would you recommend for charging ONLY NiMH packs??? I've got the one for the MGT and a 5 cell AAA 650maH pack for my on-road. Not looking to spend a huge amount of money

Saboteur

03-23-2005, 04:44 PM

Dropped $140 for my integy charger. I use it for everything except the glow ignitor. 1200mah nimh for my MGT, and 1400mah nimh for my onroad.

Monsterbrad

03-23-2005, 04:50 PM

The new MRC charger looks to be pretty good.
I have the MRC 959 super brain and it works well.
False peaks now and then but i don't care for the money the thing works great.
can't go wrong.

MikeWz

03-23-2005, 09:16 PM

I feel like $140 is a little too steep for me to drop on a charger for nothing but rx packs. I'm not ever getting into elecs, so I don't really care much for a fancy charger.

Cotharyus

03-23-2005, 09:24 PM

Honestly, it's hard to beat a brain for a cheap, fast charger for just rx packs.

metalry101

03-23-2005, 10:20 PM

Nah it's not...at least IMO. I'm a big electric guy (I don't race but I own more electrics than nitros and I've been doing electric for years). In my honest opinion the Duratrax Pirahna Digital is the best charger for the money on the market. It'll only do 3 amps on AC, which is kinda disappointing if you're trying to charge 3300's, but if you only want to charge some Rx packs then you'll never be hitting them at more than 2 amps anyways. 1 or 1.5 amps (or anything in between is better, but 2 is quicker and doesn't really hurt the cells. It'll shorten the life a bit, but if you're in a hurry it's worth it. The Piranha Digital has the nice readout so you can see how much charge you take out of your packs in a tank of fuel and whatnot, and you can see exactly how far you're pushing your packs. It's a nice thing to have, plus the charge rate is adjustable in .1 amp increments. I've had mine for 2.5 or 3.5 years now (can't remember which, either way a long long time) and I have yet to have a single problem with it. Like anything less than a full competition charger, it will false peak once in a while, but it's rare, and for the price I can forgive it. Honestly, there are better chargers on the market, but for the price I don't think there's a better value. I HIGHLY suggest it.

As for dual chargers...I don't particularly care for them. The only one on the market I would spend my money on is the MRC Superbrain 969, but at 100 bux, I would honestly buy two Duratrax Piranha Digitals. The Superbrain is a fine charger for sure, but its included power supply isn't exactly top notch. It's cheap (meaning it's probably likely to fry if pushed hard often), and it's weak, only 5 amps. If you're only charging one battery at a time then 5 amps is plenty, but if you're charging two (like I would for my E-Maxx) then you're limited to 2.5 amps each. On DC power it'll do 4.5 amps a channel, but not everyone likes to walk out to their car or spend 100 dollars on a nice power supply to have that capability. Honestly I think two 50 dollar chargers are a better buy than one 100 dollar dual battery charger. There are some cheaper dual battery chargers, but IMO they're junk.