Team Associated Monster GT V2.0

[Monsterbrad]

Sounds like the Piranaha or the super brain 959 or 969....
Well had the truck out today again.
Thought the clutch was burned up the other day but turns out the engine was running over 300 oops any way and the clutch was hot from running it in the field wide open for so long.
All is good on this truck just a great truck.
Broken shock tower and still takin a heck of a beating.
Oh yeah one thing
anybody been losing the screws outa the steering bell cranks on the bottom of the skid plate???????
mine came out again the one on the servo side even with loc tite on it.
Oh well threw another screw in and away I went.

[astainback]

I ordered the superbrain 969pro today.
It does everything i want.
2 packs at a time, discharges (that is why i didnt' get the piranha), and comes with the dc powersupply.
if it fries, i will get another p/s.

thanks guys.

adrian

[Monsterbrad]

Thats the one I will buy when my 959 takes a crap...
Just can't beat the options for the price.
Good choice
let us know how it works for ya :)

[slaf]

Dynamite has a new ac/dc charger, works with NIMH, NICD and LiPo....This should be a good choice....

[Monsterbrad]

Well back to the truck here.
Anybody been losing the screws outa the steering?
Also cracked the front shock tower.
But it was a wicked flip crash at about 35 mph!
This truck is tough

[Cotharyus]

I've lost two screws out of the bottom of the bellcrank now. Both were well thread locked.

[kurrz]

Hey guys i dont remember who bought the Fantom pipes off of ebay but, was the seller bigfatchew? If it was he's got them back on their and im thinking of buying. Thanks

[Chevy-SS]

I've lost two screws out of the bottom of the bellcrank now. Both were well thread locked.
I'm sure you are using bearings at the bottom of bellcrank, but are you using the correct washers also? It's important to have a small washer on the outer end of each bellcrank bearing. That will stop binding and will ensure that all the turning forces are applied to the bellcrank and not to the screws.

Here's a pic of the bearings and spacers:

http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/normal_cranks3.jpg

:)

[Cotharyus]

Hmm. Nice tip there. I'll have to pull everything apart and throw some washers in that rig.

[Monsterbrad]

HOw about the factory team steering or the GH steering kit???
They pose problems at all.
I have not done the bearing up grade yet still pounding on it stock with the crappy bushings.
Oh well :D

[Chevy-SS]

Coth, I got a question for you: how much does your truck weigh now? I mean the complete truck, all assembled with the body on.

I am on a mission to get my MGT under 10 pounds for this race season.

Thanks

[Cotharyus]

Chevy - when I weight my truck with bowties on velocity rims, and my current body on it, the scale flutters back and forth between 9lbs 15oz and 10lbs. Mind you I've had to go back to 8 shocks, but I think it was worth it in the long run. I'm playing with some different tires and stuff, but I haven't weighed any of that stuff yet. I do have two things left to do to shave weight:

Ti screws - really expensive, maybe not worth it, but I *do* know where I can get them.

My pipe. As much as I love the Fantom pipe, we all know they're heavy. I've been scratching my head over possibly buying a Vantage CF pipe and trying it. That'd knock off a lot of weight, but the question is, would the performance hit (I'm assuming there would be one) be worth the weight loss?

[astainback]

Hey guys i dont remember who bought the Fantom pipes off of ebay but, was the seller bigfatchew? If it was he's got them back on their and im thinking of buying. Thanks


Yes, that is him.
I have not yet received my pipes, but they should be here anyday.
He was out of town when the auctions ended.
I paid for them with paypal about 20 min after the auction ended.

[astainback]

Chevy - when I weight my truck with bowties on velocity rims, and my current body on it, the scale flutters back and forth between 9lbs 15oz and 10lbs. Mind you I've had to go back to 8 shocks, but I think it was worth it in the long run. I'm playing with some different tires and stuff, but I haven't weighed any of that stuff yet. I do have two things left to do to shave weight:

Ti screws - really expensive, maybe not worth it, but I *do* know where I can get them.

My pipe. As much as I love the Fantom pipe, we all know they're heavy. I've been scratching my head over possibly buying a Vantage CF pipe and trying it. That'd knock off a lot of weight, but the question is, would the performance hit (I'm assuming there would be one) be worth the weight loss?


Are you running 40 series velocity or regular size??

adrian

[Cotharyus]

Regular. 40's just won't hold up on a MGT, although I don't yet know about the new HD 23mm hex design yet. They might hold, but they'll also be heavier.

[kurrz]

Well went to the LHS today for fuel and all they had was Odonnell 10% or Traxxas Top Fuel so i bought the Odonnell is it ok to run 10%? thanks

[astainback]

Is anyone here using the 23mm hex adapters yet??

I am in the market for some zombie maxx tires ( i think I am going to get velocities or stablemaxx's for these.)
also, I wanted to get some bowties, and i like the 40 series. I guess I need to see how everyone likes the 23mm first.

Do the rpm stablemaxx wheels have the same offset that the 1/2" velocities have??

[Monsterbrad]

Get the titan RPM rims with wide off set they are awsome rims.
10% is good you will lose some punch though.
I have Zombie tires and the titan wheels waiting at home.
probably will be mounting them this week.
But I can say from other people that have those wheels they are very tough and the zombie tires are good on just about any surface!

[MikeWz]

Zombie Maxx tires are awesome. I was running the truck in 2wd today is some fairly loose stuff, and they still hooked up fairly well. I'm sure the weight of thet truck helped, but I was impressed with how they worked.

Speaking of 2wd...I though *** was just because I lost my front drive pin (which I did). However, I improvised a bit and cut a body pin, put it in there and bent it and used that. I went to check to make sure it worked and lifted up on the back wheels and pushed/pulled the truck. I noticed that the front wheels spun on their own, they were still not connected to the tranny. The pin did go through the hole in the CVD (MIP shineys) so it's not that. The CVD goes into the diff, as do the right and left dog-bones. Is my front diff somehow completely fried?

[Saboteur]

Anyone gonna try that Ofna/Picco .27? Green machine lookin bad :).

[astainback]

I am getting a little crazy.. no MGT yet, but i am hoping that it will be here mon. or tue.
i have so many shipments out there right now it is driving me crazy!!

MGT from ultimate...
2 fantom pipes from ebay..
Superbrain pro and bearing lube from tower...
2 miniT batts. from stormer....
and i got my servo saver/antenna wire/and OS #8s from tower today...

i hate waiting for shipping!!!!

[kurrz]

Thanks i wanted to double check my LHS stinks they only had one bottle of Odonnell and i asked if they normally stock it he said no but, i can order you some. Heck i can order some cheaper! They would rather stock gallon after gallon of Traxxas. Oh well.

[Cotharyus]

Mike - grab the front wheels, hold them off the ground, and push the truck. Make note of what turns and what doesn't. That should get your closer to your problem. Remember there's a screwpin that goes through the drive cup on the diffs and holds it onto the pinion shaft. I lost one of those once and had a heck of a time figuring out what was going on because it looked like everythine was fine...just that pin missing.

[Chevy-SS]

Coth, thanks for info on weight. Do you weigh your truck with, or without fuel?

[rcguy132]

What most often breaks on this truck(The newer versions

[Monsterbrad]

I would say loosing screws so far is more often than what brakes.
THen again I have borken an a-arm and the front shock tower but both of those are from straight up abuse!
Mine is over a gallon still have the stock steering in and my wobble stock tires on.
Coth is correct Mike......
Check the drive cups I lost a pin outa mine at the tranny.
remember that the tranny in this truck is under alot of stress all the time cause of the big tires!
Also has anybody noticed the truck sticking in 2nd gear a little after some time like over a gallon of fuel. Mine seems to be doing that a little but has not been a huge issue.

[Chevy-SS]

I've heard numerous reports of the shift safety mechanism (in pic below) sticking. Of course, could also be a bad shift servo or linkage not adjusted correctly.

http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/clutchshifter.jpg

[metalry101]

I've also noticed that my truck tends to stick in second a lot. If I stop completely it always drops back to first, but if I've been doing a lot of high speed runs out in front of my house often it will stay in second even when I slow down to 5 or 10 mph to turn around.

[chxdigmyrevo]

So what is the solution to this?

[Monsterbrad]

I would say that taking the tranny apart and making sure all that is clean would help.
But the other guys that have had these trucks longer than me will be able to answer this better.
I know that the LST's second gear clutches were a problem when they were not clean.
Still having a ton of fun with this truck though its cool :D

[Cotharyus]

Chevy - I weigh without fuel, here's my thinking: A dry tank is a dry tank. A tank that's "full" might be full with a full fuel line, or it might be almost full with an empty fuel line, and thus artificially vary the weight just enough to show from one weighing to the next.

RCguy - If you asked me what breaks the most, I'd say the knuckles. But mine have only broken when taking highspeed hits on the track, against the sides of jumps, and against pipes. Of course, in breaking the most, I mean, I broke 2 of those all last season, and only one of anything else (rear shock tower - but I have *never* seen that ugly a landing!) and a few other pieces that didn't even stop me from finishing the race. You will want to keep an eye on your rear diff though, and make sure you're slipper is set right.

[Chevy-SS]

I would say that taking the tranny apart and making sure all that is clean would help.
But the other guys that have had these trucks longer than me will be able to answer this better.
I know that the LST's second gear clutches were a problem when they were not clean.
Still having a ton of fun with this truck though its cool :D

Sorry, didn't know you were talkin' about an LST there. I don't own one of them. I have two MGT's and have been racing one for about a year now. For an MGT, the shift problem is almost definitely goin' to be one of those things I mentioned. I would check linkage and servo first, prior to taking tranny apart.

[Monsterbrad]

I am not sure what the linkage of the servo has to do with the shifting of the tranny other than to get it into reverse!
Coth what are the issues with the rear diff????
I know mine are popping a little but I am just beating it!

[Cotharyus]

The poping is what I'm talking about. That's your diff getting ready to strip at the pinion/ring junction. I'm on my second diff right now, and I have a third built and ready to go in, because the second one is starting to pop. Before anyone acuses me of being "hard" on my diffs, let me tell you, I know what does it.

It's the rythem section. My truck is fast through the whoops, but it's also hard on the rear end going through them. If I'd back off a little, they'd last longer. But I like putting the moves on people while we're in the rythem section.

[Monsterbrad]

IS there no way to shim this problem out!

[Cotharyus]

Nope. As far as I can tell it's not a mesh problem. At any rate, I haven't found any shims that are the right size to work where I think it would need to be shimmed to cure it. Associated seems to deny the existance of the diff problem with this truck. I do wonder what those guys have cooking up...

[Chevy-SS]

I am not sure what the linkage of the servo has to do with the shifting of the tranny other than to get it into reverse!..................................

The servo needs to be in good working order to have enough power to move the linkage back and forth between forward and reverse. The linkage needs to be adjusted correctly so that the spring tension is enough to actually move the shift mechanism inside the tranny. If it's too loose, the tranny won't shift, if it's too tight you will wear out the servo and drain your RX battery fast. If you've removed the servo arm and then re-installed it incorrectly, then it will probably move shifter good one in one direction, but won't have enough power to move shifter in other direction.

Regarding DIFFS, there is some diff shimming info available here:
http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/transmission.htm

The diffs are subjected to all of the acceleration AND deceleration forces, therefore they take a helluva beating. Best to drive smooth and have some mercy on the diffs. Also, make sure you driveline components are in good shape. If you've got loose CVD's then the slop is taken up with a hard slam, which is absorbed by the tranny and diffs.

[slaf]

Hey guys i dont remember who bought the Fantom pipes off of ebay but, was the seller bigfatchew? If it was he's got them back on their and im thinking of buying. Thanks

Yes it was....

[slaf]

Anyone gonna try that Ofna/Picco .27? Green machine lookin bad :).


I'm very interessted in this engine....I don't really like the green head but I just heard good thing about the .26 version....So I guess this is the same about this new version.

I'm also looking for the XTM 247Pro, Picco/Ofna .26, SH28.....I just want to give a little boost to my MGT this summer. I'm also a little tired of all those teens checking my truck and saying...Oh...just a .21 Grrrr :mad: :mad:

[Saboteur]

Well if say you had an RB S5 or something like that in there with a roto or pullstart, that would be awesome. I'd say the S5 would rock in an MGT for sure, with all the torque it has. Too bad I got rid of mine. I wish I didn't, because now the bastard isn't coming on the net anymore. :mad:x10

[xdamxincx]

i have an mgt tank that constantly puts bubbles in the fuel line .. is this a common thing with the mgt tanks and is there a fix for this ?
thanks

[Monsterbrad]

xdam
Do you still have your primer bulb in the fuel line???
If so take it out and put a fuel filter in its place.

[xdamxincx]

xdam
Do you still have your primer bulb in the fuel line???
If so take it out and put a fuel filter in its place.
this tank is on my lsp .. it never came with a primer ...

[Monsterbrad]

U probably have the tank to tight in the truck.
Has to be able to move around a little can't be strapped down tight.

[Saboteur]

Dunno bout you guys, but I may end up selling my MGT. I just don't drive it anymore and I need to go take it to park with so big offroadin fun, but there isn't to much. All the parks have to offer are things my buggy and NT can handle. Not sure, but a decision will be made later on.

[astainback]

Don't give up on her yet!!!

I promise you that you will miss it right after you sell it!!!

[MikeWz]

Yeah, I was gonna sell mine to snag a helicopter. Took it out for a run one day and decided against it. Now I just need to get out of debt so I can pick up some bowties/velocitys and maybe some Ti Turnbuckles. I got the FT chassis last week. WOW!!! The thing is a work of art. It's beautiful. Most people only go so far as to mill it out to make it lighter. AE milled it out and made it look totally trick by using cool diamond bits and bringing some silver into the design. It looks totally trick. IMO, well worth the price. 1.7g lighther, and 10x cooler :cool:

[slaf]

Coth -> I weighted (with humppack, no fuel) my MGT yesterday, 4.927Kg (10lbs 13.75oz). I do still have some works to do :)

Do you know if the FT Steering kit, FT Hex's are heavier than stock ones ?

[VWVR6]

Anyone know or tried to put a 1/4 scale servo in this truck???

[Monsterbrad]

1/4 scale servos are huge too big when you can buy a high torque that will work just fine.
Also broke a drive shaft today.
almost 2 gallons and the right front one let go the pin snapped.
Have another one on hand so I am good to go.
Also try some stock GS SUT tires on this truck for a basher or race tire.
They are awesome.
The lower profile makes the truck rip.
Total bash session today.
Still impressed with this thing.

Sab
I was going to sell my LST till I ran it.
Just keep it I am known for buying then selling cause I am bored let it sit unless you need the money for another rc.

[astainback]

I am now the proud new owner of an MGT.
UPS made my day today.

[aml48]

I am the proud new owner of astainback's spur gear from his 2.5 tmaxx lol

[astainback]

And I want it back punk!!!

[astainback]

I also got my Fantom pipe today, and I was wondering if you all thought I should wait until after breaking to put it on. I think I should, but I guess I wanted a second opinion.

adrian

[MikeWz]

Well...it'd probably be best to run it with the stock pipe on, yes. That way the engine settings are what they're supposed to be for recommended break-in. Make sure you read the directions for the engine and set the needles to what they're supposed to be. The factory is usually close, but I've never had one right on (this goes for any engine, not just in the MGT)

[Monsterbrad]

I am still running the stock pipe.
has anybody tried the HPI ribbed pipe????

[Legacy]

What Rx packs do you guys use in your MGTs? I need to get one but I'm not sure where to start.

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - the steering kit, I don't know about, but the FT hexxes are almost .25 oz each lighter than the stockers, so you're loosing some unsprung weight, and some rotating mass.

[Monsterbrad]

I have the hump packs that fit into a 1/10 scale truck.
just look inside the little box that holds the battery you will know what to get by the size of it.
The one I have is 3 cells on the bottom and 2 on the top.
Works great!
Remember when you get a new pack like that it will take a few times killing it and recharging it to get it cycled good.
Then it will hold a good charge.

[astainback]

are all nimh battery packs like that??

[MikeWz]

Yeah, they'll all be the same like that (although it won't always be the same amount of charges/discharges before it holds a solid charge). You could also try getting a stick pack and mounting it under the mud guard. Lower CG, and you can cut down the battery box.

Coth - Here's a mod I thought you might be interested in. www.acerracing.com
They don't have a bearing kit out for the MGT, but they told me they'd be willing the bearings (long as I give them the sizes) and sell them to me for a kit price. They're not the cheapest bearings on the market...but they sping so insanely freely, it's not even funny. I had them on my ST and they really made a difference, mostly in accel because of the lack of usual friction. You should look into them

[Cotharyus]

Yea, I've thought about it. I'm getting to the point where I need to replace some of the bearings on my truck. I may look into getting them the bearing information and going that direction. When you look at thier kit price vs buying good quality bearings seperately anywhere else, thier bearings aren't really much more expensive.

[Saboteur]

I missed a trade...an MRX-4 with pipe for my MGT and HB lighting both in RTR form. GGRRRRR!!!!! :mad: x2.

Brad-Yeah I know, but for now I'd like a new engine both for the nitro sedan and MGT, but I can't do it that way so it's one or the other. Surely I can drive both, but till I fix the PS or get a drill the AE will ride again.

[MikeWz]

Coth - Yeah, just in general, it's not a cheap upgrade, that's all I was saying. I'ma get me the fancy expensive ones for everything but the hub carrier ones or wherever they go (you know, the ones the axles ride in). For those, I'm going to get the polyamide sealed bearings, because they'll keep the dirt out better, and bearings in that spot will be much more suceptible to dirt

[Saboteur]

Well after racing my R40 with some buddies I've decided to get the picco .27 for my MGT. We all popped up off the ground a couple inches due to rocks, but we had a great time. Most of the time just ran with the bodies off and our cars hauled booty especially mine. MT12 ROCKS! So picco .27, servo, and FOC it is! If anything I may get a pipe for the buggy.

[Monsterbrad]

Ok So I am pounding the hell outa the truck today I broke the right front hub carrier.
:mad:
But then again it landed really hard off a jump and I knew it would break.
This truck is pretty darn tough.
Any of you guys with hotter engines have drive train problems.
I am thinking about a Mach but not sure yet.

[MikeWz]

I haven't heard of anybody having problems with it. The entire drive train is pretty much metal. The drive shafts are metal, the diff gears are metal and the tranny gears are like a metal/plastic combo thing or something like that. They're really tough. If you fry them...well then that's pretty rediculous

[astainback]

How tough are the bumpers on this truck??
Does anyone make an aftermarket one?? I like the way the AE's look and all, but I didn't know if there was a good substitute if I break one of them.

[MikeWz]

The bumpers are the weak spot on the truck...but that's simply bcause they're supposed to be. You could always zip-tie the bumper to the bumper brace, which helps. I'm not sure if any other bumpers fit. Maybe you could mod a savage bumper to fit, and if you can't, you only lost like $5 trying

[astainback]

Are the factory team shock caps and shock bodies worth it, or should I just run the stock ones the way they are...

also, What is the deal with the 3 different sizes of FT locknuts??
What are they for.. or is this a really dumb question??

haha

[astainback]

One more...

the aluminum FT wheel hexes... are they lighter than stock and better too??

I am all up for buying some FT hopups if they are tougher and lighter.
I want to make the truck lighter, but I do not want to throw the balance off.
I guess I need to wait to break it in and install the fantom.

adrian

[Cotharyus]

The FT shocks and caps are a fantastic thing if you blow the tops off of your stock shocks. The fact that I've done that, but broken so little else on the truck, should be a good indicator of how tough the truck is.

The FT hexes (I answerd a question from slaf about them further up the page, or on the last page I think) are 1/4 oz lighter each than the stock ones, and they are locked in place.

[Saboteur]

Ok, the Picco and FOC are ready for me at the LHS. Just need to wait for the Ti turnbuckles. Also, gonna look for a high torque/steering servo to share in the MGT and HB.

[badboy2]

nice let us know hows the break in of ur picco27

[Chevy-SS]

Are the factory team shock caps and shock bodies worth it, or should I just run the stock ones the way they are...

Just use the FT caps. That seems to stop the top from popping off under hard use.

[Saboteur]

OH no, its the picco .26 not the .27. Haven't head anything on the .27 yet.

Where did my post go? :confused:

[MikeWz]

The lock nuts are for things like...the wheels, the nuts that go underneath the mudguards and stuff. Those are all different sizes.

Sabs - I think it's because you used inappropriate language...you said Picco .26 :p

[Saboteur]

Sry if I did anything wrong, but what did I do wrong though? I don't even remember. :confused x10. Anyway I GOT my Picco .26 finally and even after several LHS recommended it. Also I got the FOC unit. Heard great things about em so now I have it. I also got a Kawahara lola body for my nitro onroad. The stock engine flies so no need for a new one. Will post pictures soon.

[Saboteur]

GRR, I'm trying to get the screw outta the driveshaft for the front, but it's not coming out. I'm sure it comes out counter clockwise all the other screws, but its really tight in. I even put the solderin iron to the tip so it can help, but that's not working. The rest of crap that should come out won't unless it comes off so now I'm stuck :(. I wanna get rid of this crap man so I can hurry to break in the engine before I go to work. If this doesn't work, what else can I do?

[Saboteur]

Anyone?? :confused: I tried the soldergun trick but it doesnt work. I literally twisted an alley wrench tring to get it out (stock ones). Dunno what more I can do. Sure someone would say reinstall everything and run the car. However the point was since I don't use the reverse and want all the acceleration I got the FOC.

[Saboteur]

Alright, forget this. The screw aint coming out and to disassemble it the other end isn't working. Whom ever made this car might have used red loctite on it, because ALL of the tools I'm using are not working. Infact the screws are stripping out a little. The Parts are going in a bag and the MGT is gonna go on Ebay. I knew this last MGT of the yr sale had some catch, but just didnt realize what. Now I know what it is. Gonna take the clutch setup off and toss it into the 8th buggy and break it in that. Sry guys. :( :mad: x100. Not even AE can fix this for me, and I shouldn't have to spend more $$ for replacement parts to fix this. So its ebay time.

[Monsterbrad]

you could try a propane torch to get the screw out.
What do you want for the truck????
let us know.
Mine is now broken front hub carrier where the tie rod hooks up to.
Oh well it was a pretty tough landing from a jump and Speed Zone does not have the part in stock.
I was going to try ebay but I am sick of paying the same price off there that I can get it through the hobby shop.
I have the Stock SUT tires and wheels on the truck and let me say this again the lower profile and stiffer tire makes this truck handle AWESOME!!!!!

[slaf]

Coth -> You were looking for an engine with midrange power. In the last RCCA they drop a Peak in a LST and they said that it gives to the truck more power with a very good midrange response....I tought this should interrested you...:)

[Chevy-SS]

Coth, this post is for you dude. I know you're always looking to "lighten the load".


http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/batteryweights.jpg


The new LiPo RX packs are about half the weight of standard NiMH pack.

[8D]

[Saboteur]

you could try a propane torch to get the screw out.
What do you want for the truck????
let us know.
Mine is now broken front hub carrier where the tie rod hooks up to.
Oh well it was a pretty tough landing from a jump and Speed Zone does not have the part in stock.
I was going to try ebay but I am sick of paying the same price off there that I can get it through the hobby shop.
I have the Stock SUT tires and wheels on the truck and let me say this again the lower profile and stiffer tire makes this truck handle AWESOME!!!!!

If you want I'll tear the truck apart and sell thing serperately. I'm honestly dissappointed at it. Atleast I'll be able to get the other parts out, but this gear box is a PITA big time. Guess I'm gonna either make my buggy a TRUGGY, or let this be my ultimate offroad..which it will be. An 8th buggy with insane .26 engine..LOL! Anyone know how much torque the stock AE steering servo has? Im gonna use it on the bug.

[slaf]

Sab ->

Torque: 111 oz/in
Transit Time: 0.20 seconds at 60 degrees

[Monsterbrad]

Sab let me know what you want for the truck as parts or roller or whatever.
I might be interested.
I also have a rc18t that I would trade for it.

[Saboteur]

Slaf-Sounds good nuff for steering. The Hitec is going on throttle then.

Brad- Sure no prob.

[astainback]

My roommate needs one.. i would like to know as well.
adrian

[Cotharyus]

Chevy - Thanks. I've actually been about half looking for a LiPo pack&charger, be cause I knew they were lighter. I also don't think it'll be long before everything R/C is running LiPo's. Call it three more years. LiPo packs could result in 20-30 minute battery packs with hot brushless setups. Now wouldn't that be a kick in the rear.

[MikeWz]

Coth - Thought you might like this:
Just found out the Fantom FR-27s dropped in price quite a bit. Thank you Fantom for making awesome engines and sweet prices.
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN01041

[Monsterbrad]

Ok guys
the ones that race there trucks here!
I kinda want a good all around pipe for the stock engine.
But would like to keep it in the back with the stinger aiming down.
(need a new one of those the stock one is ripped off almost all the way)
HPI ribbed ?
Fantom? kinda expensive
???????????????????????????????????

[MikeWz]

MB - When looking for a pipe, what I find to be the most common misconception is that you need to match the pipe to the track. This isn't necessarily true. It's much more effective to match the pipe to the engine. With the stock engine you won't really have a problem with any pipe, simply because this engine doesn't have a power-spike, or a flat spot anywhere on the powercurve, it's got a pretty smooth curve. However, you'll need to figure out where your engine accels if you get an aftermarket engine. If you have an engine with nice low-mid range, but not so much on the top, it doesn't make sense to get a pipe that's going to boost top-end. All that's going to do is screw up the power curve that the engine was designed for. Same if it's the other way around.
Honestly, I think the HPI ribbed pipe is kind of a waste of money. Yeah, it's only $30, but I feel like it doesn't really do much. The Fantom pipes are kind of expensive but they're super nice. They're great performers, and they're made out of steel, so you don't reallly have to worry about denting them. Another nice pipe would be the Ofna or RB 086 pipe (depending on how much you want to spend). The Vantage CF pipes are supposed to be pretty nice, but they're also fairly expensive. If Coth does get one and gives a positive report, I'll most likely snag one too.

[badboy2]

hpi ribbed pipe is too loud i think the best pipe and its affordable is rdlogics pipe

[MikeWz]

Wow my lucks sucks....a lot. I go out and buy a G4/XP-12 Turbo and werks pipe hoping to race this summer. Well, apparently on Long-Island there is no nitro on-road racing. Awesome. Gotta sell that.
Bought some Bow-ties and velocity rims for the MGT today, spent like $90 at the LHS for everything and I find out that the MGT is too big for my track back at home. Awesome. The LHS up here at school (which is actually closer than the one back at home) is going to open a track this summer, but I'm not here from June through the middle of august, so I dont' really get to do much racing with it :( . I was psyched too, the MGT is awesome. Oh well, at least I get to race a little bit. Gotta snag me a Drake 2 with the money I get from the G4. I really miss the XXX-NT (sold that to get my MGT almost 2yrs ago now). Best stadium on the market IMO.

[Saboteur]

I let the guy drive my NT when I sold it to him, but it didnt make me wanna keep it. :) I'm driving a loaded buggy now so thats all that matters. Don't think I'll get an MT for later on though so guys until my MGT is gone, I'll hang here. After that, it's Gbye. :(

Sry bout the onroad mike. You woulda loved it!

[rcguy132]

How's the FR .27, I heard it was a shortlived engine, and I've heard it's a great one

[Cotharyus]

Mike - Thanks for the heads up on the fantom engine. And for the record, I am seriously looking at the vantage pipe, but that doesn't mean I'll pick one up. I'm almost at hold right now on R/C entirely because of a twist in my work situation. I'm spending two hours on the road getting to and from work now, and working some very odd hours. Fortunately, they aren't odd enough to wreck my weekends. That said, yall give a look at this video.

http://www.archive.org/download/CotharyusMaxxTrackRCRacingHighlights362005/race2005036.mpg

I should warn you, it's much higher quality than the last one I posted, and on a much better connection (I've seen 200K downloading from there) but this file is 207 MB. (hey slaf, no music!)

[MikeWz]

Coth - When are we going to see some of you driving skills displayed :p

Rcguy132- Short lived??? Naw, it lasts just as long as the average engine out there. 4ish gallons, sometimes more, sometimes less, depending on how you have it tuned, and how you're running it. They're great engines. Their powerband actually reminds me of the stocker (meaning it makes good power all around, no flat spots or power spikes anywhere) except that it'll wind out farther. How they do it I don't know, but Fantom is crazy at getting higher RPMs out of engines that normally wouldn't.

[Cotharyus]

Mike - sine 90% of the time I'm the man with the cammera, the heats and mains that I'm in aren't taped. We do have some people out there that are willing to help, it's just a matter of co-ordinating things. Part of the problem is most of the people willing to help tape are racing in more than one class themselves. It's really a personel problem.

[Legacy]

A QUESTION

The tx that came with the MGT is of course a piece. I have a JRxr2i am radio for my Losi xxx-t sport II. That is only a 2 channel radio so I can't just buy another rx and use it on the 3 channel MGT.

My question is this: Will the JR xr3i work with the MGT? You can buy just the tx and rx with no servos for a little over $100 online now. Will this work? Thanks all!

[MikeWz]

Yeah it'll work. The servos should be compatable with the JR reciever because an airtronics servo hooked in just fine, and they both use z-connectors

[Legacy]

Thanks. Is it worth the expense to go to an FM radio?

[MikeWz]

It's not really any more expensive, and yes it's worth it. I just picked up a Hitec SRX radio with a 645 servo for like $130, without the servo I think it's only $110 or something. It also comes with a Micro reciever :cool:

[astainback]

I am waiting for a little more money and I want to get the jr xs3 pro.
Ultimate was selling them for 200. great price!!

Is that hitec you bought the one that will work with the spektrum?

[MikeWz]

It's got a huge module thing in the back, so I'm assuming it'll work with the spektrum. That'd be pretty nice

[slaf]

Good news :) My brother-in-law decided to get a MGT !!!! He wanted something easy to use, tuff, easy to work on, top quality and raceable.....He decided to buy a MGT...I didn't influence him at all !!!!!

He spotted the MGT and the Savage....I got a very, very very good deal for him. He can't refuse !

I also bought some 30% fuel for my MGT....Can't wait to see any performance gain...Also bought FT steering kit and FT hex's.


Radio -> I bought a MX3 last summer, I really like this radio, easy to use and to naviguate tru the menus.



Coth -> Thanks for the video, it's appreciated :) I'm downloading at 290Kb/s

[Cotharyus]

I'm going to hit this radio thing once - I use a 3pdf - it works. When I replace it, it'll be the MX-8, or whatever replaces that, with spektrum modules. Two guys at my track are using them now, and they just rock.

Slaf - let me know how that 30% does. I've thought about it more than once. Glad the video is downloading fast too. Yall ignore my manical cackling at some parts of the tape. I just can't help myself when some of these guys start trading paint.

[MikeWz]

Slaf - awesome

Coth/Slaf - be careful with the 30%. It may make the comrpession too high. I know with most engines you need to add an extra shim when running it, so just be careful

[slaf]

I'm also looking for a RB 728 engine. I can have a very good deal for this engine.....But this was not expected and I'm a little low on the budget this month...

MikeWz -> I ordered head shims to prevent pre detonation...

Coth -> It still quiet cold here. I'll wait until temp get at least 10C. I'll keep you informed...

[MikeWz]

Slaf - http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_146_308&products_id=5759
Is that the engine you're talking about? If so, I heard on the Monster GT forums that they're really not all that hot. It took quite a bit of porting to get the potential out of it, and for the money the Wasp .26 was actually better. I was looking at the revo engine...but it's not a pull start :(

[slaf]

MikeWz -> Yes it's the engine. It the 7 ports engine...I'm sure RB is better quality than Wasp engines...

[MikeWz]

Not necessarily. RB came out with their engine much later than everybody else. They could have just jumped onto the "power bandwagon". It's awfully expensive too.

[slaf]

MikeWz -> I have to disagree with you about RB engines quality. :rolleyes: With no doubt their engines are better quality than Wasp engines.

For the price you're right... They are expensive but I can get one for 100$cnd more than a Wasp 26.

I was just looking for my next engines. They it goes with the big blocks, by the time my TTR 21 died there will be many new engines on the market. I read somewhere that the Wasp .32 was on the way.

[slaf]

By the way guys...It looks like MGT prices are getting a little bit higher...:(

[MikeWz]

Slaf - Lol. I'm not saying their engines aren't quality. For sure they are. I would take a WS7 II for buggy racing over pretty much everything else. And yes, they are probably better quality than Wasp engines. However, did you take notice of when their .28 came out compared to everybody elses? The Wasp was already out, the Ofna Picco was already out, and the FR-27 was due to come out very shortly after that.
I wouldn't normally question it, except the guy defintely knew what he was doing. He knew all about port timing, port placement, cutting of the crank, balancing...even cutting on the little peice of the cooling head that goes inside the engine around the glow plug (not sure what it's called, and not sure how to really describe it). Apparently it lacks serious low-end, and takes a lot of porting to do (which fortunately he could do by himself rather than shell out big bucks to do it). I think he was just saying that for the money, you actually get equal performance from it. I know it's not the case with any other Wasp engine and RBs...but yeah, I'll try to find you a link to it so you can see what I'm saying but better explained.

[MikeWz]

http://www.monstergtforum.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1478&SearchTerms=TM728

He had to port it to wake it up

[Monsterbrad]

The Ws7 II
IS A GREAT ENGINE!
I would buy one in a heart beat for my truggy or a buggy.
The p-5 Rex is also a really good engine!

[slaf]

http://www.monstergtforum.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1478&SearchTerms=TM728

He had to port it to wake it up

Thanks for the info ! Do you know if the 928TM (9 ports) has the same problems ?

BTW -> What's your nick on the MGT Forum ?

[MikeWz]

Slaf - I haven't heard much about the 928, but my guess is you'd be safe with that one. They probably put more time/research into it. However, keep in mind a genereal rule of thumb: More ports = More RPM...that gernally means less torque, so if you're looking for a torquey engine, this may not be the one you want (although the size of the engine may make enough torque for what you're looking for). I don't really post on the MGT forums but my Nick is the same. What's yours?

MB - I'd go WS7 II for an open track, and a P5 for a shorter track....but either way I can't afford a buggy :(

[MikeWz]

Okay guys...sorry for the 146551561 post in a row, but I've just made up my mind. I'm going to be a big idiot and bite the bullet. Going to make my MGT super hardcore. Selling my nitro on-road (which I can't use anyway, and it's brand-new) and going to drop the money on the Collari .30 engine, Vantage racing dual chamber pipe, Werks Racing carbon adjustable clutch, and to make sure ALL of the power goes to the wheels I'm going to throw a full set of Acers Ceramic BBs. This should should make quite an impression on the track, if my driving skills haven't all gone away :o

[Saboteur]

Have fun man! :)

[slaf]

Mike -> It's RC10GT_MGT...You will roconize me with my french accent ! ahahahah

[slaf]

Mike - sine 90% of the time I'm the man with the cammera, the heats and mains that I'm in aren't taped. We do have some people out there that are willing to help, it's just a matter of co-ordinating things. Part of the problem is most of the people willing to help tape are racing in more than one class themselves. It's really a personel problem.


I'd like to see how your truck perform on this track. If you pay me the plane ticket I can tape your race....:)

It's a nice track and video. Still about 2ft of snow on where I want to build my track. I have to kill the grass. I heard that salt can do the job.

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - thanks. Unfortunately, the last couple of races, I haven't been doing that well. The truck has felt very inconsistant, and downright unpredictable. However, I've narrowed this sensation down to the radio. At firstI thought maybe it was stripped gears in the servos or something, because it almost felt glitchy, except it wasn't. It was just that for a split second, the truck just wouldn't respond, or the brakes would stay on too long, or something strange. It turns out there's a short somewhere in my transmitter, which thus far, I have been unable to locate. My transmitter is blinking off and then back on - it barely stays off long enough for the LCD to blank before it's back on, but obviously something like that makes it very difficult to drive. So:

I've owned two Futaba transmitters, and gotten less than 1.5 years of use out of both of them. Before that, I had an Airtronics XL2P. I bought that transmitter in *1992*. It still worked when I *gave* it away.I should have kept it. Everyone make note - my racing may be done until I can cough up the cash for an M-8. I cannot see sacrificing my truck and engine if my radio decides it's going to shut off and stay off.

[slaf]

Coth -> I already have the same kind of problem with a on/off transmiter. One AA was loose in the battery case. I strech the spring a little bit and it solved my problem...

[MikeWz]

Coth - You can have my stock radio if you want. I know it's nothing special or anything...but hey, you'll be able to run the track at least

[Monsterbrad]

Anybody have any extra hub carriers?
I snapped one :mad:
oh well
Truck is still awesome
Hub Carriers??????
they are the same front and rear I take it

[slaf]

Anybody have any extra hub carriers?
I snapped one :mad:
oh well
Truck is still awesome
Hub Carriers??????
they are the same front and rear I take it

Unfortunately I sold the last one this weekend. :mad: I'll have new ones nest week...

[TJNMT]

Quick quesiton, I got a MGT comming in and just wanted to know what is best for steering out of these 2 servos.
Hitec 625mg
Futaba S9402

I know still kinda weak but will prove to be enough. The truck will see no track time so flat bashing. As well as if these servos are not enough, how oz should I be running?

Thanks

[slaf]

TJNMT -> Simple question...Why do you want to replace the stock servo if you are just bashing ? ;)

[TJNMT]

I am getting the MGT in a trade so it's used but traded from a good friend. Already installed is a 645MG. I have a spare S9402 taken from R-40.
Even tough I am bashing I want something that is going to take beating will hold it's on.

[astainback]

Isn't the 645 newer and more powerful than the 625??

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - I've already gone over the loose battery thing, thanks though.

Mike - we're always squeezing to get allt he new guys with RTR's and stock radios running anyhow. The last thing we need is to throw me into the six frequency shuffle too. Thanks though. I'm working on coming up with the money.

[slaf]

Coth -> This can be a cold solder (hope it's the right term) problem in the transmiter or receiver...

[TJNMT]

Isn't the 645 newer and more powerful than the 625??

Your are exactly right, I need to work on paying more attention to detial. I'll throw the S9402 on the throttle and the 625 on the reverse.

[Monsterbrad]

I have the 645 in my truck and it works great.
I just bash and don't have any probelms.
the batteries last alot longer than the ones in my LST do.
But then again the LST uses 2 steering servo's

[TJNMT]

Sweet thanks for boast, I was thinking it was not enough.

[Monsterbrad]

Mine seems to work great!
Need front Hub carrier right now.
Stinks nice weather and its broke.
But its done very well so far!

[metalry101]

The 645 is NOT a newer better 625. They're the same servo almost. The difference is that the 645 is a torque servo and the 625 is the speed variant. I personally run a 5645 steering servo and a 5625 for throttle/brake duty in my MGT. They're both digital, so I get that cool digital whine, plus the ridiculous precision and holding power. I've got all the torque I need to steer the truck and then all the torque I need to lock all four under braking, while still being exceptionally responsive and crisp.

[Monsterbrad]

The 645 is a great servo
SOme say its slow but once you drive it for a while it's easy to get used too

[rcguy132]

Gues Who's Getting one,ME
BTW what's a good replacement engine to get more power for about150?(or less of course)

[slaf]

RCGUY132 -> SH 28, Mach 26, XTM274, Ofna/Picco 26 or 27, Fantom 27....

[Monsterbrad]

I would say it depends on how much money you want to spend!
An engine is the heart of the machine so a good engine is always better than some stupid little mods that can wait.
I would say get a ws7 II or a p-5 they are ripping enigines and will run well pretty much all the time.
These other engines are RTR engines and one step above that they are good but do not compare to the good race engine's.
Some guys are even running the os 21 rg I believe it is and they say it is dead reliable and has more power than the stocker.
I like the stocker just lacks torque but it is a strong engine for a 21 and you can pound the heck outa it!
oh yeah
picked up 4 hub carriers and bearings for the truck off ebay.
Shipped for just over 7 bucks! sweet
back in business soon with the MGT after 2 weeks of no running :mad:
oh well

[MikeWz]

MB - I haven't run since easter, and I won't be able to run again untill about the first week of June :( . Unfortunately, I don't think you can get a WS7 II or a P5 for the MGT because you won't be able to start it. No PS, and you can't use a starter box on the MGT. Plus, they're double the price he's looking to pay ;)

[timberwolf211]

After reading and skimming through these pages I bought a MGT. And it was well worth the money I spent cause I upgraded to a JR XS3 at the same time. Tis truck is crazy and super easy to work on and the the engine does put out some nice power. And you really don't have to do much to the truck to make it better. Sunday I will be taking it out to my local track to give it a full shakedown but for now I am pleasently happy with this truck and I agree that is was very underrated.

[slaf]

Timberwolf211 -> Welcome to this thread, you'll like your MGT !

[MikeWz]

Timberwolf - Welcome man. You'll love this truck, it's great. People don't give it enough credit, but it's popularity is growing

Okay guys, I'm gonna drop the Werks/Collari .30 in my MGT soon. Also going to be running bow-ties. What CB/Spur combo should I use? Like an 18/47 or something like that?

[slaf]

Breakin news......

There is a "serious" rumour that Thunder Tiger bought Team Associated.....

[kurrz]

Is that bad or good? Any opinions?

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - If TT *did* buy TA, maybe now we can get *just* a ring gear for the diff? Nah, that'd make too much sense.

I think I'm going to break sick on my truck. I'm going for some panther komodo dragons for it's next set of tires. Of course I will eventually be picking up a set of Super King Pins as well, but I can actually get the panthers now.

Radio update - The power wires that run from the radio tray to the power board on a Futaba radio are ....well, long. The connections were good on each end, but having ruled out everything else, I pulled the wires, and put some new ones in. So far so good, I fiddled with the radio for about 45 minutes without it blinking on and off. This still doesn't get futaba off the hook, it just means that I might hold out for the new M-11 instead of going for the M-8. Or I might just try picking up the M-8 when the price goes down on it after the M-11 comes out.

[Monsterbrad]

I like my JR xs radio.
Always does well for me all the channels and that plus has the features that you need to race and bash.
I run all my rigs with it,MGT,LST,LSP!
Its a great radio so far.
This sucks good weather and the MGT is wounded :mad:
oh well

[MikeWz]

MB - only problem with the XS is it doesn't have all the features of the M8...and the M11 is supposed to have more. I just wish it wasn't a tank. It doesn't look like it'd be all that comfortable. But if they help all that much, I may have to pick one up.

[astainback]

Question about turnbuckles.
Tomorrow is breakin day for my MGT and my roommates MGT.
My question is.. did anyone elses rear tires come seriously toe'd in and the camber a little off??

Also, I do not do alot of turnbuckle work.. I am just learning. I have made some adjustments to the ones on the xxxnt, but not too much on the tmaxx.
I read on here that if you leave them mounted and turn the turnbuckle it will either lengthen it or shorten it. So apparently the threads are opposite. Is this the way it works..??
I had to replace one of the turnb. ends on the tmaxx with a proline one.. and I don't remember the tb ends being different. I am having a hard time picturing this in my head.. and if the ends are the same, wouldn't you just be shifting the threads on either end keeping the length the same??

And as far a camber is concerned.. do i need to leave the top adjustment alone and do the adjusting on the bottom one??

thanks,
adrian

[astainback]

One more question..

The mgt didn't come with a turnbuckle tool, but i noticed it had a hole in the center "think" part of it. Is this for inserting a allen wrench to turn it??

[MikeWz]

Adjusting toe: The threads are in opposite directions, so that way when you turn it one way, they both tighten and when you turn it the other, they both loosen. If they were both threaded the same way, one end would tighten and the other loosen....no dice. The way toe is adjusted is by lengtening and shortening the turnbuckles. Try getting the front tires facing dead straight, and the back tires about 1-2 degrees.
As for camber, you can adjust the top or the bottom pivot ball, it doesn't really matter much. just try to keep the lenght of the pivot ball from the hub carrier the same on both sides. You don't want to make them about 3mm away on the ride side and like 1-2 on the left side.

[timberwolf211]

Maybe I missed it going through all these pages or it is just me. Does the factory brake seem to be a little weak? Or do I need to adjust my linkages? Or spend 15 at the LHS and get the crazy nut racing dual disk brake kit?

[slaf]

Timberwolf211 -> You just have to replace the brake spring with fuel tubing. You can also connect the battery into the 4th channel on the receiver. This will bypass the bec and your servos will works at 6v.

You can check this site http://pages.globetrotter.net/rc10gt/ there is some tips

[astainback]

One more question..

The mgt didn't come with a turnbuckle tool, but i noticed it had a hole in the center "think" part of it. Is this for inserting a allen wrench to turn it??


Anybody know about this....??

[slaf]

I just finished to break in my brother in law MGT....

Each time I see a new MGT I'm always impressed by the truck quality....

[slaf]

astainback -> For the turnbuckles you can use pliers ...

[timberwolf211]

I did do that so I guess I just need to readjust my linkages and I am running a XS3 in my MGT.

[astainback]

I went to the LHS earlier this week and bought a big daddy fuel filter.. then realized that the mgt tank has 2 filters in it... what is up with that!!! Do you ever have to replace those filters?

[MikeWz]

My guess is one for the bottom feed, and one for the top feed. I've never had to replace those filters. You'll find most new trucks have one in them now adays. Just make sure nothing gets stuck in them, that's all

[kurrz]

Quick tuning question I get my MGT running good temps around 240 and sometimes at full throtttle it just dies too rich? And sometimes stutters on the bottom. When i pull full throttle.

[Monsterbrad]

My truck has another filter on it any way.
These trucks are in the dirt all the time pretty much can't hurt to have extra filters.
As far as the filters in the tank I would not worry about cleaning them they will be fine for a long time.
Kurrz
change the plug
richen it up a little on the high speed needle
See what happens

[MikeWz]

kurrz - Not really sure what you mean by stuttering. Is it just kinda bogging down right away? If it is, it's probably too rich (not likely at 240* though). Or will it rev up a little right away, then struggle a bit? If that's the case, it's too lean.

[Monsterbrad]

This engine will change after a break in.
Mine did the same thing.
I run mine at about 220 or so depending on the weather but sometimes I tune for closer to 250 or more to get more power.
I am not lookin to get 10 gallons through this engine either so it depends on how hot you want to run it.
I would say by what kurrz said its to lean once the engine gets more time on it you can lean it more.

[Raster]

Well, fellas, I recently got a Monster GT and am pretty excited about it. Thanks to all you guys that answered all my questions - it was a big help.

I was going to get the new Savage 4.6 SS kit, but there are a couple of things about the Savage I'm not crazy about, so got the MGT instead. And am glad I did.

I haven't even run it yet, but have been getting some replacement parts for it. I got a Wasp .26 and the Fantom pipe for the MGT. I already have a JR radio, so I'll be replacing that. I'm going to replace the servos with a couple of JR servos I already had.

I also got the Pro-Line Powerstroke shocks and need to get the MGT hardware kit for them. I also already had some Pro-Line Maxx bearing carriers/hub carriers, so I'll get the MGT pivot ball retainers.

Did you guys take apart your transmission and diffs, to replace any grease with silicone oil, etc.? I was going to do that and then seal them with RTV gasket sealer.

Can't wait to get started with all of it. Thanks again for all your help.

[kurrz]

Thanks guys im was running again today and if i tried to richen it on the hsn it would bog and slow down before it would shift so i leaned it out again. And it ran good, i'll get a new plug and see if it helps thanks again. Right now im running 10% it was all i could get seems harder to tune.

[metalry101]

Alright...to explain the title. I...umm..rolled the truck...right into about 18 inches of water. It was kinda floating upside down with about half an inch of the tires sticking out! All of my radio still seems to work, and I'm sure the engine will fire right up again after I let it dry out. However, I can't say that I would suggest rolling the truck into a massive puddle.

[astainback]

Breakin day problems...

First off.. the truck was faster than i thought. Man it was a lot of fun to drive.

First problem.. mine kept cutting off with braking. I leaned out the idle speed screw.. problem solved.

Second problem.. my roommates truck was running great and i accidently hit his back tire and broke the hub carrier.. dangit... There isn't a LHS nearby that carries mgt stuff, so i was wondering if one of my tmaxx hub carriers would work. I know it will not be as durable, but I was wondering if it would run on it for now. I do think the hobby shop has the rpm ones for the tmaxx, and I did read that those would work on the MGT. So i might pick up a couple of those for now.

Third problem..
the shaft start cup that sticks out of the back of the motor is gone. I don't know whrere it is or how it happened, but it is gone. ***??? has this ever happened to any of you?? there is a rod about a 1/2 inch log sticking out of the back of the motor. is that right??

Fourth problem.. I think some guy got sick of hearing the trucks run and power mike'd a really powerful cb.. because my tmaxx and mgt when crazy and stuck out at WOT.
the mgt turned over (thank god) and the tires ballooned out. So my motor was running wide open for about 30 secs.. do you guys think this is going to be a problem??

thanks,
adrian

[timberwolf211]

Well I took my truck out to the track today and it ran great. I found out that I need a new set of tires and some RPM parts to make the truck bullet proof.

[metalry101]

Yes, the Traxxas knuckles will work. I pulled one off my E-Maxx and put it on my MGT when I broke one, it worked fine.

RPM ones are the hoopty, and I plan on putting them on my E-Maxx and MGT some day.

The shaft sticking out of the back of the motor is what that drive cup that you lost attaches to. Your set screw probably just backed out. I don't know if you can buy that seperately or not. If I had to guess, I'd say no.

As for the motor running WOT for 30 seconds, as long as it's broken in it shouldn't be too much of a problem. It could be...but I doubt it, as the stock motor is pretty damne durable. Today was the second time I had the misfortune of tumbling the truck into a lot of water and hydrolocking the engine, yet it still turns over beautifully.

BTW...30% is sweet! I ran some of that today and it was awesome. I didn't even have the truck leaned out enough and it was still very fast. This engine rocks! Now all the truck needs are some lighter shoes and taller gearing. I think I'm gonna try some Zombie Maxxes...but we'll see. I might decide to go with the Mulchers instead.

[Cotharyus]

Well, I went to the track today. The radio worked nearly flawlessly. Even though this isn't about the radio, I will address a couple of questions about the M-8's size, etc. The M-8 is based on the XL2-P design, with the overhang and everything. It does look clunky. But it's balance, setup, and overall feel are superb. Once you pick one up, you'll never want another radio.

On to the racing. I was still running stock tires. In the first heat, I finished....first. Yes, I beat 3 revo's, and two savages. Including my arch nemisis who I only ever beat if he breaks something it seems like - and he didn't break anything. The key here was that I drove a completely clean heat, that was somewhat short on marshals. Because I never had to wait, I ended up in front. After a clean second in the second and third qualifires, I was off for the main - 15 minutes of what usually amounts to an attrition race. 7 minutes in, I lost the back end. The set screw that holds the drive cup in came off. I stuck it out with just the front wheels, and figured the odds were still pretty good considering how many people don't finish 15 minute mains. I was right. We had 5 of the 7 of us that started finish, and I still managed to pull out a 3rd because of some flameouts on the part of other finishers. Anyhow, I had a blast.

[timberwolf211]

awesome to hear

[lardman]

dunno

[astainback]

Breakin day problems...

First off.. the truck was faster than i thought. Man it was a lot of fun to drive.

First problem.. mine kept cutting off with braking. I leaned out the idle speed screw.. problem solved.

Second problem.. my roommates truck was running great and i accidently hit his back tire and broke the hub carrier.. dangit... There isn't a LHS nearby that carries mgt stuff, so i was wondering if one of my tmaxx hub carriers would work. I know it will not be as durable, but I was wondering if it would run on it for now. I do think the hobby shop has the rpm ones for the tmaxx, and I did read that those would work on the MGT. So i might pick up a couple of those for now.

Third problem..
the shaft start cup that sticks out of the back of the motor is gone. I don't know whrere it is or how it happened, but it is gone. ***??? has this ever happened to any of you?? there is a rod about a 1/2 inch log sticking out of the back of the motor. is that right??

Fourth problem.. I think some guy got sick of hearing the trucks run and power mike'd a really powerful cb.. because my tmaxx and mgt when crazy and stuck out at WOT.
the mgt turned over (thank god) and the tires ballooned out. So my motor was running wide open for about 30 secs.. do you guys think this is going to be a problem??

thanks,
adrian


I found out that I can just get the starter coupling (that is the name) for $7.59.
So I am not worried about this.
I am worried about the engine running WOT.
What is the best way to tell if I did any damage to the engine. (i do not want to take the enging apart!! I do not have alot of experience here, and I don't want to start until the engine needs rebuilding.

Please help again!!

[astainback]

Ok, is everyone ready to laugh???

Here it comes. I realized just 2 min. ago why my tmaxx and mgt when ape "crap" today.
They are both running on brown.

Holy crap I am an idiot.
The 2 trucks were running at WOT together. Does that make sense?? Of course it does. Both of the radios were on at once. Now I am scared that I fried or shortened then length of life of my tt.21.

man....

Any ideas on checking out the engine to make sure that i didnt' damage it?

adrian

[slaf]

I just got the FT hexs, they are 10g. The stock ones are 20g.

I also got the FT steering kit. I'm waiting for my new servo and servo arm.

[slaf]

astainback -> The best way is to take your engine apart and check everything. How long did he run WOT ?

[MikeWz]

Honestly, if everything was broken in correctly you probably have nothing to worry about. Give the engine the one finger test. Put your pointer finger on the flywheel, and try to turn the engine over one full rotation. If you can't do it "easily" (without your finger coming off) you're fine

[astainback]

well, i have my roommate truck for comparison, and his is harder to turn than mine, but mine seems to still have some pretty good compression.

How many gallons can i expect to get through this engine??

thanks,
adrian

[slaf]

5-6 gallon for sure....

[astainback]

slaf... the eingine probably ran for about 30 secs at WOT upside down (well.. not that long.. it was a little hectic)

[slaf]

If your engine turn freely and have good compression...I'll simply restart it and run it again...

[Monsterbrad]

I have held this engine WOT for so long that it over heated.
Shut down and all that.
I let it cool and started it up again its fine.
THis engine is very very tough.
Bill at Speed Zone TN.
tried to blow his up by holding the throttle WOT while it was up side down till it ran outa gas.
Never blew
he is still running it on 4 gallons plus.
This engine is not a super power house but it is tough!

[lardman]

LOL gl man

[slaf]

Here's what I ordered for my steering servo...

http://www.balsapr.com/catalog/Servos/bluebirdAllServosView.asp?ProductId=U569935

[Skandranon]

Wow slaf nice buy. I got the airtoronics 358. 200 oz and .10 sec. That almost the same thing for 1/3 of the price. I think I would have gotten that one had I knowen about it. I am intrsted in seeing how it holds up for you. Please keep us informed from time to time about it.

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - I don't want to scare you, but I wish you'd asked. I put one of those in my MGT last summer. It was undeniably fast, and strong, but it only lasted two races before the servo case litterally broke into about 5 pieces. I honestly hope you have much better luck, and that I simply had a defective case or something, but I can't say for sure that you will or won't, because I've heard several mixed reviews - some love it, and some had similar experiences to mine.

[slaf]

Coth -> I should asked you before....I remember what you told me after I bought my Proline 40 serie Velocity :( :( :(

I will give it a try, hope it will last. Did you run this servo with the FT steering kit or the stock servo saver ?

[metalry101]

Good luck with that servo man. You might be one of the lucky ones. I've only heard rave reviews or horrible reviews, nothing in between. Lotza people say they're the best servos ever, while a ton of other people had the same experience Coth did.

If yours decides it doesn't want to work anymore I'd suggest looking into the Hitec 5645. At 55 bucks it's still fairly cheap, and it has a 2 year warranty on it. It's also digital so it has massive holding power and is more precise than any analog servo. The 110 dollar JR is a better servo for sure, but for the money I think the 5645 is as good as it gets. I run one in my truck for steering and I run the 5625 (the not quite as torquey but speedier version) as my throttle/brake servo. I've only had that combo rockin for about 2 or 3 weeks, but I haven't had any problems yet, and I've even sent my truck swimming! I've owned a couple 5645's before this and only had one prob. When I sent it into Hitec they sent me a brand new one so I can't complain aobut that.

[slaf]

I'll keep my stock servo in my tool box :)

[Raster]

Should I put two wheel nuts on my MGT? I thought I had read somewhere that the MGT is bad about the wheel nuts loosening and then it strips the hex hubs out.

Am I remembering this right? If so, what kind of nuts to double up on?

Thanks

[slaf]

When the nylon insert in the nut is worn out (by frequent removing and reinstalling) you have more chance to lost a wheel. You can simply add another nut and tight both nuts.

[MikeWz]

I've taken mine off numerous times and have not have a problem with the nuts falling off. Just make sure you put the same nut on the axle you took it off of. Not sure why exactly that helps but it does (gues the threading is the same or something)

[Monsterbrad]

I am trying the blue traxxas revo ones I had left over from my Revo!
They are comming lose a little but I just snug them every run or 2!
I am running the SUT tires and wheels and this truck handles awesome with them on it!
The holes in the rims mess with the drive shafts a little but its no big deal they are fine!
Just a great all around tire!

[Raster]

By the way, is the stock .21 engine shimmed for 20% or 30% nitro? What about the Wasp .26?

I have lots of Byron's 30% that I would like to use.

Thanks

[MikeWz]

I know the TT .21 is shimmed for 20% and my guess is the Wasp is also shimmed for 20%. You can pick up extra shims really cheap. If you can't find them on-line, try giving Orion a call. I think Slaf or somebody got more shims so they can run 30% in the TT, so you can ask him where he snagged them from

[metalry101]

You don't need to add shims. Of course the motor company says to, but if you want to run 30% to get more power why would you add spacers to decrease compression and therefore power? You'll be in the same place you were before but you'll be buying more expensive fuel. For maximum life out of the engine it's good to add spacers when running higher nitro contents, but IMO if you can get lower contents then just buy that and keep the engine stock. You'll get the same power for less money.

[MikeWz]

Metalry - Yes, techinically you decrease compression by adding a shim. However, the compression made by 30% nitro more than makes up for that. You do get more power. However, if you're strictly bashing, it's not really worth it. Yeah you get more power but you'll be paying a lot more for it. You don't necessarily get less life out of the engine though

[slaf]

I heard that we must add shim to prevent pre detonation when using 30%

[metalry101]

Ic, ic...well...I'm running 30% in my stock engine with no new shims. If you guys hook me up with some info on where to score some shims for it I'll try 'em.

[metalry101]

K...I lied. ASC25314 I'll order some tomorrow at work and try them out.

[metalry101]

Oh...and BTW, this engine rocks. It's easy to start and easy to tune and with a good exhaust it makes plenty of power to keep me happy, but I know it's not enough for a lot of people, so any of you guys have your stock motors laying around? I wanna put something cheap and super reliable in my LST.

[metalry101]

One more reply before I let other people talk. Here's my truck as it sits at the moment. I only got one tank through it, which was very disappointing. Apparently the throttle servo didn't care for the mud much and needs to dry out. I'm thinking about try to fab some sort of splash shield for it so that mud and water can't run down the hole where the output shaft comes out, because I'm sure that's where the water went in. I'm also confident that the servo will work perfectly again once it dries out, as the first time I sent my MGT for a swim my steering servo did the exact same thing. (Yes, I do need to learn how to drive :) ).

[MikeWz]

Wow....I need to come run where you do, it looks like it'll be a lot of fun. It's the best when the trucks come back looking like that. As for the servos, it's also possible that it got in the seal where the two halves of the servo are joined. You can take the servos out, unscrew the little screws and run some silicone sealant around the joint (put them on top of the joint where the two peices come in contact) and that should help too. Not sure about it coming in the hole up top though. I've run my truck though some hardcore stuff and haven't had a problem with that (after sealing my servos).
I love the engine in this truck. They really are super reliable and put out enough power to win races. It's really the pipe that holds it back. It's a 1/10th scale pipe. You can probably pick a new engine up from ebay for really cheap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5965993116&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5969127525&rd=1


Here's my water runs :)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/MikeWz/b78366a6.jpg

[metalry101]

That's sweet looking man. Today was the first time I've run the Super King Pins. I just bought them last night. They hook up very very well in the dirt but they weren't so great in the mud when I high centered the truck. I think I'm going to buy some Pro-Line Mulchers try out as well as I think they'll be a little better in the loose and rough stuff, and they're lighter since they're smaller. I don't know what else to upgrade at this point. I've got some mean shocks waiting, but I'm too poor for those. I dunno...

[Saboteur]

Awesome mike. The last time I tried that I watched it dig itself into the dirt and getting deeper by the rev! :eek:. Well I guess the MGT will go up for sale. Gonna get a real car soon and I'm gonna need the support I can get :(. Another thing is the super tight screws, which ticked me off. The other part of me said you shoulda just left the FOC in the truck and slapped the Picco .26 in there, but noooo. Ah well, maybe if I got another MGT later on hopefully I won't have the same problem :).

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - I run the stock steering setup with bearings in place of the stock bushings. Did you weigh the FT vs stock? I've stayed away from it because I'm not sure of the benifit of using the FT, particularly weight wise, and it does seem very expensive.

metalry101- Where'd you find super king pins? I have three LHS's, none of them can even get a scent on those things, and the only place online that even lists them that I'm aware of is Horizon, where they are, of course, out of stock.

[slaf]

Metalry101 -> Very nice pics !!!!

[slaf]

Coth -> I'll weight them for sure :) And keep you informed. Because I'll replace the stock servo saver with an Ofna arm, I'll wait to have my new arm before I weight everything.

[MikeWz]

Any of you guys running a Li-Po reciever pack yet? If so...what kind are you running? Or, anybody know what kind I should be getting?

Kinda bored, so I'ma post some more pictures

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/MikeWz/MGAirage.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/MikeWz/MGTPwnsHill.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/MikeWz/KingoftheHill.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/MikeWz/MGT1337Drift.jpg

[slaf]

Here's some numbers for you Coth....

Factory steering kit (including 4 bearings) -> 47g
Stock steering kit (including pastic bushings) -> 39g

4 bearings -> 5g
4 bushings -> 0g (too light for my scale)

So, you are using the stock plastic steering kit with 4 bearings like me, so it weights 44g, 8 grams lighter than the FT steering kit.

I didn't weight the servo saver, I'll wait to have my Ofna arm before....

[slaf]

Thanks for the pics Mike....I was also a little bit bored ZZzzzzZZzzzz :)

[metalry101]

The hobby shop I work at had 'em in stock and they just looked too cool to leave chillin' on the shelf so I picked them up. You might try ordering some if you want them. I looked 'em up while I was at work Monday and if I remember correctly the ETA from Horizon was 4/16, so there should be a bunch mroe shipping soon. So far I like them, but I do wish that I put them on wide-offset rims because the MGT isn't exactly a low slung truck. I can't get the ride height I want with stiff enough springs to handle the massive jumping that I do. I'm hoping the next set of shocks I put on it will solve that problem. I'm pretty sure the Mulchers will help with that too since they're only about 5.75" tall.

What other mods does my truck need? So far I have...

F.O.C.
FT steering
Fantom dual chamber pipe w side exhaust header
Hitec 5645 steering servo
Hitec 5625 throtte/brake servo
Futaba 3PM
Super King Pins on HPI 6 spoke wheels
Motorsavers air filter
Hardcore Racing rear tower
Trinity black springs (Ultra firm) (x4)
Trinity blue springs (Firm) (x4)
Zip ties on the bumpers to allow flexing

I've got this stuff on order or already waiting for me...
Quality shocks
Shiny engine head
Mulchers
14T clutchbell
46T spur (for use with Mulchers)

The only other things I can think of atm that I really need are...

Ti turnbuckles
Ti hingepins
A new pullstart (string broke...I'm having to use my LST's spin start)
Head shims (for use with the 30% I'm now running)
MC9's (I ran out...I'm running an MC8 now)

[metalry101]

MikeWz~
Awesome pics man! I'll try to get some decent action pics up some time...and if anyone knows how to compress video and and can host it I'm sure I can get some quality footage up since my bro has a DV cam.

Coth~
While the MGT definately has some of the best steering I've seen in an RTR monster, I still hate servo mounted servo savers, which is why I went to the FT setup. Bellcrank servo savers are the only way to go IMO. The MGT does come with a really really good servo mounted unit, and truth be told it was plenty, but I wanted the FT setup anyways. It's also aluminum which is shiny and pretty, and if you get the 75 dollar version it comes with bearings. I believe the 55 dollar version is the one w/o bearings, so you could use the ones you already have...

slaf~
Thanx man! I'll try to get some more pics up soon, or maybe I'll get them up on my site and just throw a link up here. I need to organize and compress them. 1.5 megs a picture is a bit much when I've only got 20 megs of available storage on Angelfire.

[slaf]

Here's the version I ordered -> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFVA8&P=7

There is no "bushing" version of the FT steering kit

[fezzy]

Hi all, Just ordered myself an MGT 'Race', The 'Race' is a special edition we have here in the UK, All the normal MGT Bits and Pieces but with Power-Stroke Socks, Crowd Pleazer 2 Body and 40 Series Bowties on 40 Series Velocity Rims. Anything I should be looking out for? I have already sold the standard radio and will be using my trusty CRX with 5945/625 Servos. I'll probably ditch reverse soon aswell, I can't stand having it, All that weight and complexity and what for? :rolleyes:.

I am hopeing the truck is going to live up to my expectations, I have a Revo currently and I love it to bits, Wouldn't trade it for the world. Aslong as its anywhere near half as good as that I'll be happy, I just wanted something with a big block as a contrast to the Revo, Which although being as fast as it is with an OS 18TM, Its just not a big block which I have missed.

[nitrobug]

Fezzy I think you will like the truck, I have one and a savage,revo,t-maxx and a mad force. The MGT is my favorite

[BCat125]

You will probably break bumpers and maby turnbuckles so stock on those. That race version sounds nice i want to convert mine to a race setup.

[slaf]

Fezzy -> What's the engine in the race version ? Stock TTR .21 or the new TTR .28 ???

Do you have a link ? I'm curious ! :)

[MikeWz]

Slaf- do you have any info or someplace I can check out the TTR .28? I'm sure it's not the most powerful out there, but if it's as reliable as the .21 I'm all for it

[astainback]

anybody have any ideas about cutting the body for fueling with the body on?

I saw a pic the other day, and now i can't find it.

[astainback]

Also, i bent up the rollbar a little, and I am sure some of you have done it too... should i replace it or bend it back??
how weak will it be after i bend it back?

[slaf]

anybody have any ideas about cutting the body for fueling with the body on?

I saw a pic the other day, and now i can't find it.


Install a ziptie on your fuel tank lid and cut passenger window

[MikeWz]

Astain - You can bend it back...but leaving it bent should be fine as long as it's not really bad. I found the roll bar to do nothing but dent up my body really good, and it weighs a lot, so I just took it off.

Slaf- where can I find info on this TT.28 engine?

[Cotharyus]

Rollbar? Take it off.

fezzy, are the 40-series 23mm hex? If they aren't, I'll basicly promise you that you'll break them.

Metal - I'm going to mount the SKP's on a set of stock wheels. I like the size of the stock wheels and tires on my truck, guys at the track complain about me being "hard to pass" with them on, and they wreck on the pipes a lot trying. Also, the larger diameter tires work out well for me, I tend to stay back a little on starts if the gate is real crowded because "the pack" has a tendancy to pile up in the first and second turns. With the larger wheels and tires I just yell for the track marshals to get out of the way and take my time driving over anything I can't drive around. I drove over two Revo's stacked on top of each other last weekend at the track.

Yes, the MGT is the biggest truck at the track. Yes, it might not turn as well as some of the smaller trucks. But I go just about anywhere I bloody well please with it.

BTW Metal - How much are the SKP's at the shop you work at? I finally found a couple sets online, but I've held off because the price looks a little inflated to me.

[slaf]

Mike -> Rollbar and mounting hardware weight 29g (1.02oz)

I saw few months ago a stock MGT with TTR .28 Pro engine from an asian web site. The engine description was "New Thunder Tiger .28 Pro engine (Pre production)" since this time I have not heard anything about this mill. I also asked my distributor about this engine and he didn't know about.

[MikeWz]

Man, it'd be hot to snag one of those engines. I don't need the ultra power to win races, I'd rather have the reliability than the power. I mean fantom's are great and all, but it's hard to compare to the reliability of the TTR engines

[slaf]

Mike -> I find the link http://www.thundertiger-europe.com/index.php?id=42&backPID=2&begin_at=16&tt_news=58

[MikeWz]

Well than I may hold off for that to come out :cool:

[slaf]

I think this will also be the stock engine for the TTR ST1 truggy

[MikeWz]

When's that due to come out? My guess is the engine will come out when that truggy does than

[fezzy]

The engine on it is just the standard TTR 21, Which I have good experience with, And from the looks of things its pretty pokey considering the size and weight of the MGT. I'll probably putting an old RB 063 on it that I have lying around, So that should help things along a little. The 40-Series are the standard size and not the 23mm ones, I will see how they go anyway, I may just stick my standard Revo tyres on and use the 40-Series on my Revo.

If u want some more info on the Race MGT have a look here (http://cmldistribution.co.uk/category.php?id=65&type=CAR) They also do a 'Rock' vesrion with PL Humvee Bodyshell, Power-Stroke Socks and 40 Series Dirt Hawgs on 40 Series Velocity 6 rims.

[slaf]

Fezzy -> I bent some Velocity 40 wheels with my MGT. But the Power-Stroke shocks seem to be very nice. I know S3 buggy have nice shock pistons, hope TTR included the same comcept in the MGT.

[MikeWz]

Fezzy - The TTR 21 is the stock engine on all MGTs, correct? It's a great engine. Might as well use the 40 series tires while you've got them, but you'll definitely bend the rims. They made them bigger without really adding reinforcement but they probably weren't thinking about the MGT when they were made

I e-mailed TTR asking them if they had any info on when the .28 will be released. They e-mailed me back saying "I have no information on when the 28 or the 50 engines will be released...."
Wow...TTR .50. That'd be awesome :cool:

[fezzy]

I am not sure if I'll be getting the standard wheels/tyres aswell, They are not supposed to come with them but this is abit of a special case as I work for my LHS, And I have been told that they modify the MGT's and fit the Proline goodies, But they don't have any ready made, So they just chucked in all the other bits extra!. I'll geuss I'll wait and see, But if I get the standard shocks/wheels/tyres/shell I'll be well happy :D

[slaf]

TTR engines are really nice engines, reliable, easy to tune, tough but the need more HP. I read somewhere that few OS engineers were working for TTR...This should explain why TTR engines are so reliable :)

[fezzy]

I have owned a TTR Engine in a Fusion, Going back some time now though... Cracking motor, Fired really easily, Piece of cake to tune, Really consistent running. When the MGT was announced I was afraid it would of been really slow with the TTR PRO21, But after having a go of one, And racing with them they really do shift considering the weight of the MGT, I am hopeing the 063 makes some good power with it, I have yet to put that pipe onto an engine that hasn't run better afterwards.

[slaf]

I just got a slightly used Ofna/Picco .26 to drop in my MGT.

I can't wait to see how much performance I'll get and the weight difference....

[Monsterbrad]

I am going to try the Mach in mine next week.
Also any of you guys know anybody that wants an LST let me know I am selling mine.
Roller no engine or radio
best offer takes it

[metalry101]

Has anyone seen this truck with LST tires on it? It couldn't possibly look meaner. Well...okay...maybe with an H2 or something on it, but short of that...

I've got the stock LST tires mounted on some Stablemaxx Titans and the truck runs like a champ with them on. They hook up a bit better than the Super King Pins in the really loose stuff, and since I have them on wide-offset wheels they make the truck a lot more stable in the turns too. I'll try to get some pics up some time. Right now it's a bit dark outside...

Anyways, I have had a lot of problems with the turnbuckle links coming off of the ball on the knuckle in the rear. Has anyone else had this problem? I've been thinking about pulling the screw out and just putting a washer on the end of it so that the ball end can't fall off completely. Anyone see any downsides to that? I figure the turnbuckle will take a harder hit if the ball can't pop off to relieve stress, but the stock steel turnbuckles suck anyways, so I'm not real concerned. If I nuke it I'll just go Ti anyways.

Oh...and in a rather sad bit of news...my bashing spot might be disappearing. There is some construction and such going on like 30 feet from it, which worries me. I'm thinking it's probably some little strip mall or something. Hopefully my jumps stay there, because otherwise I'm screwed. I didn't buy monster trucks to cruise the street in front of my house.

[TJNMT]

Yes those LST tires sure do look alot better, trying myself to find a set.

[metalry101]

My shop has a set in. Two sets actually. You could get the ones that are already mouned (on stock LST wheels), or you could get the unmounted ones and some other wheels like I did. We've got both in stock.

[slaf]

Coth -> Super King-Pin's sidewall seem to be a little bit too high and they must be a little bit heavy too.

I personnaly prefer, BowTies, HPI Bonz or S-Maxx tires.

[astainback]

Has anyone seen this truck with LST tires on it? It couldn't possibly look meaner. Well...okay...maybe with an H2 or something on it, but short of that...

I've got the stock LST tires mounted on some Stablemaxx Titans and the truck runs like a champ with them on. They hook up a bit better than the Super King Pins in the really loose stuff, and since I have them on wide-offset wheels they make the truck a lot more stable in the turns too. I'll try to get some pics up some time. Right now it's a bit dark outside...

Anyways, I have had a lot of problems with the turnbuckle links coming off of the ball on the knuckle in the rear. Has anyone else had this problem? I've been thinking about pulling the screw out and just putting a washer on the end of it so that the ball end can't fall off completely. Anyone see any downsides to that? I figure the turnbuckle will take a harder hit if the ball can't pop off to relieve stress, but the stock steel turnbuckles suck anyways, so I'm not real concerned. If I nuke it I'll just go Ti anyways.

Oh...and in a rather sad bit of news...my bashing spot might be disappearing. There is some construction and such going on like 30 feet from it, which worries me. I'm thinking it's probably some little strip mall or something. Hopefully my jumps stay there, because otherwise I'm screwed. I didn't buy monster trucks to cruise the street in front of my house.



Metal,

After I broke my roommate's rear hub carrier and bent the turnbuckle...
Well, lets just say he was jumping it and it came off of the ball just like you described. Are the mgt turnbukles too large for the proline tmaxx turnb. ends??
i have a ton of those left over from repairing my tmaxx, and it would be nice if i could pop one of those on.. the don't pop off!!

adrian

[fezzy]

Got my MGT! Looks great, Very pleased with it. Just taking standard radio and that off to fit my Hitec gear, Then tonight I will build my Power Strokes,Which also look superb!. Tryed fitting a pipe I have in my drawer, Unfortunately its abit of a tight fit isn't it?. What pipes can any of you recommend? I was thinking of going with the side exhaust manifold, As I just think it looks neater!.

Very happy!

[jimbonj]

Got my MGT! Looks great, Very pleased with it. Just taking standard radio and that off to fit my Hitec gear, Then tonight I will build my Power Strokes,Which also look superb!. Tryed fitting a pipe I have in my drawer, Unfortunately its abit of a tight fit isn't it?. What pipes can any of you recommend? I was thinking of going with the side exhaust manifold, As I just think it looks neater!.

Very happy!

You can use a Paris AL650, OS 2030 or CVEC Z165 pipe for a rear mount. If you go to some offset wheels, you'll have a larger selection of pipes...or go with the side exhaust manifold.