Team Associated Monster GT V2.0

[RDucky02]

anyone have a class that they race their MGT inz? if so what do you race with and whats the rules in that class. looking too start a new class at the track, seeing whats happening at tracks around you guys.

[MikeWz]

Most tracks I've seen are pretty much a free-for-all. They run MTs all together. Savages, MGTs, Maxxes and the like. Some tracks I know of run a stock maxx class and a modded maxx class, but other than that they run everything together

[MikeWz]

MOTHER EFFER. Anybody else put the FOC in their truck? I can't seem to get her to work right. First two times the main gear separated and therefore the truck wouldn't go. Now it's locked up on me. I opened it up the first two times and just kinda put it back together because there weren't any obvious flaws. I guess the 2sp drive shaft wasn't in. But now it's LOCK UP. I can't get this stupid thing right

[RDucky02]

what do they give you with the FOC? good directions? etc?

[MikeWz]

The directions are just pictures. They're easy to follow as it is a very straight forward process. You get a drive gear and a few spacers. It's really easy. I just don't know why mine is giving me trouble. Maybe one or more of my spacers is too small or something :confused:

[RDucky02]

figure out your forward only yet? mine came in yesterday, time to go pick it up. thought if u solved your problem then i would make sure i avoided what you did

[RDucky02]

Finished the FOC tonight. Just a few mins ago actually. Kinda just chilling. Anyway, Mine isnt locking up on me yet, and i started the engine and just let it sit on a shoe box. gave it gas a few times then shut it all down. just to make sure everything was sitting right. ill take it out on friday and see if im having any troubles. but so far everyhthing looks good. i was spektical if you could actually feel the weight difference, but low and behold it is true. you actually feel the weight difference. and it truly is amazing how much lighter it is. its not like it lost 1/2 of its weight but u can tell the difference, and the tranny is sooooo much lighter, it def lost 1/2 or more of its weight. cant wait for friday.

dave

[Sp00n]

Having just recently gotten bit by the RC bug yet again, I was at my lhs and got to drive the owners MGT. After the first 20 seconds I was hooked and went in and purchased one.

Question:
Do you have any tips on breaking in the engine? I just wanted to make sure I did it correct from the start.
I've already thread locked screws previously mentioned in this forum. I don't really plan on jumping it off hills, rather just racing it at my local off-road track.

Thank you,
-Sp00n

[RDucky02]

Ive always done the same break in to every engine Ive broken in. I look at the manufactures suggestions and many times i find my break in to be longer and some may htink its overkill but ild rather do too much than not enough.

Tank 1: Idle (no body, after tank is done, let engine cool completly)
Tank 2: 1/2 (no body, after tank in done, let engine cool completly)
Tank 3: 3/4 (no body, after tank is done, let engine cool completly)
Tank 4: full throttle with body, dont have to let engine cool
Tank 5: full throttle with body, dont haev to let engine cool

I monitor the entire time with a temp guage and its important to make sure the engine is getting up there in temperture. its the whoel point of break it, to mate the piston and sleeve, and to heat cycle the piston and sleeve. My break in is a bit overkill but ive gotten excellent power and speed and long lifes out of alll of my engines. you can take away tank 5 if you want and run with a body starting with Tank 3. tweak it to your temputure where you live and be sure to run rich. have fun

[RDucky02]

and dont STAB the throttle erratically!

[RDucky02]

To quote one of our very own, Mr MikeWz, MOTHER EFFER! This truck is insane. THE FOC really brings the truck to life even more. Its been raining here in the chicago area, check it out zip is 60004. we got a tornado about 30 miles away in DeKalb. Anyway its been nuts here and i finally got to take out the truck with the FOC in it. The road was a little wet in some spots, mostly on the sides, and if i stopped there and hit the gas hard all 4 tires would let loose and all you would hear is tires lightin up on the ground... coolest sound. so then i took it to the construciton site about 3 or 4 min walk away, they building houses. and they had huge gravel mounds/mountains and dirt and all kinds of stuff. they were also laying new sewage pipes so some of the moutnains of dirt were huge. the construction workes politely let me play and show em what the truck could do. had a great time, took on a two by four htough, didnt work out so well but no harm no foul. cant wait to drop more weight off it. and can we say all we all know baout the .26 engines... WHEELIES on demand, i could be almost through first gear, get on it a bit (bit=more than im saying) and you could see hte truck almost let loose a wheelie at like 25, 30 MPH. the truck is stupid fast and assoated really went the extra mile. kudos.

[Cotharyus]

I'm about to be all over this. I've never had a "real" MT before (my first nitro was an HPI NMT after 16 years of messing with electrics) and the MGT is on my short list. If I buy the MGT, I'll be buying the FOC with the truck, and putting it in before I break it in. Now the real question is, do you guys think these trucks are as tough as the Savage? I'm a little afraid of where the lower hinge pin is captured through the diff housing - is that holding up for everyone? Yall let me know, I'm getting very close to buying one here...

[RDucky02]

ive talked with many people at the hobby store, the managers, drivers, owners, and entuasist (basiclaly all the same). anway, the savage is a very tough truck. however the only thing ive broken thus far on my MGT, and ive had it since the first shipment, is the front plastic skid plate and the chrome bumpers extensions. that was from a head on collision with an emaxx. think ive said it before, broke his bumpers, his bumper support, his left a arms, cracked his diff case, bent 2 shock shafts, and blew one of his shocks. and i rolled away with a broken skid plate and was still able to drive like nothing happened. the MGT has an extruded alum chassis, bulletproof. the arms are supports by alum units attached to the chassis, no bulk heads, diffs are held inside the chassis. 4 screws take out the entire elecronic system. there really isnt a weakness to the truck, drop in the FOC and you should see the MGT come to life even more. furthermore its got good jumping attitudes. i have not had a problem wiht the diff housing supporting the lower hinge pins, i dont believe ive headrd of that beigna probelm from any at my LHS or on this board, but i dunno, not for me anyway. only thing to i hate about it that i remove, the carrying handle. see if you can test drive one, youll never want to put downt he controller.

[Sp00n]

Friday I broke in my engine per RDucky02's post above and today I headed out to run my mgt. While running it went wild the wheels kept twitching back and forth and the throttle kept twitching almost taking off on me had I not go to it in time.

I brought it back to my garage and checked my radio and receiver, no twitches, didn't seem I was having radio problems. I put the glow starter on and cranked it up and it immediately began twitching as I described above...

What would cause this? If its radio/receiver problems, why would it only show up once I have the engine started?

[Cotharyus]

Check to make sure your header and tuned pipe aren't too close to each other in the coupling, if they touch each other due to vibration as the engine is running, it can make the radio glitch.

[RDucky02]

two things... my 2 cents...

1. check the receiver batters, the steering servo eats them. i ran the truck through break in before upgradeing to a rx pack... with the reverse servo also the truck just eats batteries... probably not the probelm but you never know.

2. it could be the area... does it happen when you your at home with the truck running and not running?

[Jeff Cain]

The no brainer part of this is that it's vibrationally induced. "Where?" is the question.

1 Receiver crystal-try another crystal
2 Bad connection in the receiver-make sure all the plugs are in fully and/or try another receiver
3 Bad connection in the battery holder/RX pack depending on which you're using-try another

[Sp00n]

1. I checked my header/runed pipe connection and have about a quarter to a half an inch distance between the two.
2. I replaced the batteries in the receiver pack, still no change.
3. If I have the engine off and the receiver and radio on it dosen't seem to freak out on me.
4. I'll try another crystal today.
5. I'll check the receiver to make sure all the connections are solid as well today.

Thanks for all the help guys, I'll let you know what I find out later today.

[Sp00n]

As it turns out my receiver crystal was loose. Let me also add that the receiver is a bitch to get back in with all the additional wires.

On a sad note, I broke my pull start string :(

Off to the lhs tomorrow.

[RDucky02]

On sunday my I built a curved ramp like mine for my brother. He has an emaxx. Anyway the cufrve he wanted is sick. So today i was going off it doing back flips, very easily i might add. the ramp is sick, the picco engine is sick... so back flips were all over the place. buck i took a bad tumble and sent the front shock tower through the left side of the truck as you look on it head on... off to get shoe goo... well see how it wroks in the morning... my engines cooling head also got 2 bent fins on one side.... i am very not happy about that. i can deal witha body but the frickin

[RDucky02]

On sunday my I built a curved ramp like mine for my brother. He has an emaxx. Anyway the cufrve he wanted is sick. So today i was going off it doing back flips, very easily i might add. the ramp is sick, the picco engine is sick... so back flips were all over the place. buck i took a bad tumble and sent the front shock tower through the left side of the truck as you look on it head on... off to get shoe goo... well see how it wroks in the morning... my engines cooling head also got 2 bent fins on one side.... i am very not happy about that. i can deal witha body but the frickin engine head... i mean come on. so i bent them back after i heated up the head. looking at adding the rc solutions roll cage... on a side note i was catching my brothers emaxxx in first gear.

[jkmcgrath]

Have you guys found many bodies for your MGTs yet?

[Breakin2]

How does this thing handle on the track compared to other MTs? I'd put an XTM 24.7 Pro in it to spice it up, but I also see the LST looming on the horizon...

[Cotharyus]

I'll be ordering my MGT by the end of the week. Looking forward to getting it broken in and on the track.

[RDucky02]

i havent found any bodies except 2. the assocaited stock body (avail in red, blue and clear) or the H2 SUT from pro line... really limited so far.... although i saw an el camino on an MGT and it didnt look that bad.

[jkmcgrath]

Check out this 57 chevy!

http://www.ultimaterc.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=22&pos=15

[jkmcgrath]

Man this jeep is way cool as well.

http://www.ultimaterc.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=22&pos=49

[RDucky02]

57 chevy... awesome... jeep is cool but not as cool. anyone know what bodies they are or who makes em?

[jkmcgrath]

Man I dont. I thought the 57 chevy was a parma but I dont see it on their site.

[Sp00n]

Engine Temp question: I have mine running pretty rich, its spitting oil, and I might add South Florida is pretty hot, almost 90 today. I was idleing at around 220 and 230. So what is too hot?

[MikeWz]

What's your running temp? There are differing views on this. I find that a bigger truck (usually running a .21) shouldn't really get above 270. Once you get above that it's a bit dangerous. I have mine running solid at 250.

[RDucky02]

the thing with temp is that is its a good ball park. its certainly better than guessing or not monitoring it. but when its 40 degrees in a late fall race you wont hit 250, and when its 110 in a hot summer race in the south, yea, your gonna be running in excess of 300 almost. the most important thing is to make sure you engine is running well. it cleans out at top speed, it idles smoothly, good accel/top speed, and theres white/blue smoke coming out. i never run in excess of 300, no matter what personally, but with a humid 90 degrees in FLA, i wouldnt worry, because yous said your running well and its got oil coming out hte exhuast.

[MikeWz]

Spoon, you should be able to lean out a bit if it's spitting oil. It should be "spitting" oil. You should just see a nice blueish colored bit of smoke come out of the engine. If there's not a pretty good amount of smoke coming out all through the power band (there's usually a little less on the top) than you're too lean. You can also listen to the sound. If it's high-pitched and almost sounds like it's straining...it probably is and you're too lean.

[RDucky02]

quick question because i havent been able to figure this out; what does YGM mean? i see it every now and then in posts and i still cant figure out what it means.

[Jeff Cain]

YGM=You've Got Mail

[RDucky02]

like ive said before me and my brohter each built ramps, mine now has the same curve as his. sick. anyway we put them next to each other so we had 8 ft wide of ramp to hit. i pulled so sick jumps off the ramp, ill have to post some movies on beatyourtruck or something. anyway, i let my friend take and wheel as i clutched my nagging mind not to let him... so after a while it looked like the truc was bogging, just running lsow and stuff. so i didnt know if it was the truck or the fact that i told him to take it easy iwht the .26 in it. so i grabbed the wheel for a second or two and it happened. my brothers emaxx took out my MGT. i hit an emaxx head on and totalled it, but i dont know what happened, my brothers emaxx, perfect. my MGT... both shocks ripped apart, oil everywhere, the aluminum upper a arm mount ripped off the alum chassia and the lower a arm broke off. all in all the only hting holding on the front right side of the truck was the turnbuckle for the steering... pics to come... super suck... oh well. time to go to LHS.

dave

[Cotharyus]

I'm guessing you'd done a good job of weakening the whole works on that ramp, and the emaxx got in a lucky shot. Thats just a guess though.

[MikeWz]

Yeah man that sucks. I don't even know how an e-maxx could mess up an MGT. You musta weakened something in the suspesion on that side pretty bad for a freakin e-maxx to rip you apart. From my experience the t-maxx is a little baby truck that breaks much easier than any other truck I've driven.

[RDucky02]

must have been how it hit it. im selling one of my MGT's one the sale board, this is what it says:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Limited Edition MGT roller for sale w/ upgrades..... *LOOK*

I have two Limited Editin MGT's and I have to sell one. I want to have funds available to race this season with the other MGT and my touring cars. The truck comes wiht an engine but no electonics.

It runs the following upgrades on it:


Racing Hingepins
Foward Only Conversion Kit (reduced 1/2 lb)
HPI polished pipe and side exhaust header
Limited Edition Stars and Stripes Body with Flag


I bought boht truck with the intent to race them. I got it when they first came out in fall of last year. I have personally owned a savage, a tmaxx, and tmaxx with a sirio .18, and 2 MGT's and nothing compares to the MGT. Simply put this truck is the most durable, best handing, and best jumper that I have owned. Some say the MGT cant be raced but i dont htink another truck out there is as well developed as the MGT for racing. It also included the Limited Edition body with the flag in the back. Also includes spare parts, tools etc. I am looking for $325/obo plus shipping to to your door. I paid over 500 when the truck first came out and have put even more money into it. No rims or tires are supplied with this sale.

PM or E-mail, RDucky02@aol.com me with comments or questions. Picturs will be posted in the next few hours.

Dave

[RDucky02]

forgot to say it also has dual brakes with vented rotors. and carbon fiber pads.

[RDucky02]

i put the rc solutions cage on my MGT. and the shock towers. i had to lose half of the top fin on the top of the picco because of clearence issues wiht the cage... bummer. no one said that that was an issue that i talked to with the .26 in it... oh well. the truck looks awesome though.

ill have to post some pics, maybe a ffew with my brothers brushless emaxx in it there too. he hit the side of the house last week. he went off the ramp really bad and smashed into the side of my praents home. tire tredds were on the side of the house and i could not help but laugh so hard. i usd to tell him all the time that it was gonna come around to him when he would laugh at me, and it finally has. he didnt think it was funny though. gotta love goof off though, saved his life. pics to follow later tonight.

[Cotharyus]

Well, I got my MGT Wednesday night. I spent two hours changing out the radio, installing the FOC, and generally going over it to make sure it was all together right. It looked good. Yesterday, I ran 5 break in tanks. On the 5th tank, figuring "what the heck", while it was still very rich I figured it was time to see if it would jump a bank in my front yard. It made second gear, and hit it, sailed up, and landed next to my driveway (concrete) headed towards it. What happened next is still not clear in my mind, but the truck went over, hard. It endoed with a half twist, and landed on the concrete in a shower of paint chips (which initially left me wondering what really happened) and slid the rest of the way across. This being my first real MT (I've had a LOT of other R/C's) I wondered what the damages would be. I was thinking anything else I've had would be toast as hard as it hit. I got it settled in my head that all the stuff flying around was paint, not parts, and walked over and turned it over. Every bit of paint was gone off the side the body it landed on. Other damage? A scratch on the engine head, and a broken body mount post. Bigger? Yep. It's the biggest R/C I've owned. Faster? I dunno, but it's fast. Tougher? Yep. Defidently tougher.

[MikeWz]

Congrats man. This is the most amazing MT I've driven/seen. I've owned a T-maxx. It's not what people make it out to be. It's an awesome truck...untill you drive something else. It takes A LOT of $$$ to make it what it needs to be. The savage...well it is the rival to the MGT and that says a lot. It's super tough and really fast too...but I just don't like the way it handles. The MGT handles like a ST and it's super big too.

[Cotharyus]

Had much fun today with the MGT. It rained for about 15 minutes before we were going to race today, and after the sun shone on the track for a few minutes, most of the track was fine, except for a few good mudholes. We ran MTs for a while to dry the track out. I've got some shots of what the fun left my MGT looking like here:

http://wilderness.dyn.dhs.org/maxxtrack/pictures/index.php?folder=/6-13-2004-rain/

[RDucky02]

So I finally am pretty damn happy with how the truck runs. Truck just keeps amazing me at how tough it is. Cant wait till morning...

so without further delay, i give you....

The Evolution of My Hottness.... (yes thats my trucks name)

First Picture... Winter 2003-2004 Dual tank mgt, sick run times...

[RDucky02]

.... picco .26

[RDucky02]

i dont know when i put everything on but this is the current set up...

ofna picco .26 (18 tooth bell, stock spur)
hpi ribbed silver tune pipe
side exhuast header
FOC Conversion
robo brake disk
RC Cage
RC Front Shock Tower
RC Rear Shock Tower
Integy Threaded alum shocks with trinity 1 black and blue spirng on each arm
big joes... nuff said





the current hottness...

[RDucky02]

....

[RDucky02]

last one, i promise

[Fantom 15 gt]

I cant see the last pic

[RDucky02]

now the last one, sorry

[Cotharyus]

Ok. How much did that cage cost, where'd it come from, and how much does it weigh? How does it affect the body mounting?

[fuzzy2133]

RC solutions cage, cost $135.95 and weight I do not know. the body mounting requires some creative cutting. most of the ones I have seen run do so with out a body.

Link to RC solutions,
http://www.rc-solutions.com/

[RDucky02]

I used a lady that was selling a cage on ebay and i contacted her. she ordered all 3 things for me in silver special order for me. best of all then no sales tax and it was 183 for everything shipped. victoria hobby shop in texas, if your thta interested i can give you the info off her card she sent me. anyway, it was a pleasent expierence and it saved me about 30 bucks...

the body mounting is now on the cage, theres 6 places it mounts on the cage and theres no need for the body post if you use the stock towers you can just take off the body post. it wasnt too hard to mount the body, pretty easy wiht a dremel. engine runs cooler and truck kicks ass, tough as nails. only down side is now its at its stock weight again, but its tough as bullets and looks real kick ass. (we all know that word isg onna get *ed out.) anyway, i love the truck, im gonna go run it in a few anyway. think i only paid about 120 for the cage, about 25 a piece for each towre and 10 for sihpping. good deal.

----------------

"go big or go home"
"i think our 20 year old friend chris, is willing to go into the porta potty when we dump it over. and i use the term "willing" very loosely"

[RDucky02]

oh i forgot... 2things real quick.

1. i had to cut half of the top fin off the .26 because of clearence issuess with the cage, they were close and i wanted to make sure they didnt hit eachotehr for some massive radio intereference would follow.

2. with the .26 in it it kicks gludeous maximus even with the weight.

[MikeWz]

How much does that thing weigh with all that. I may get another MGT to race with but if I don't I'm still gonna use the one I have fer bashing. The only thing that scares me away from that roll cage is the weight. That thing's gotta be pretty heavey

[Cotharyus]

I've been looking at something I can put on my truck and leave there, not worry so much about the weight, and still have the protection when I'm racing. I don't mess up very often in races, but when I do, I do it with grand style. Some of the stuff on this page might catch your eye too. Anyone got anything to say, good or bad, about the tube chasis upgrades on this page?

http://www.neweramodels.com/prod62_Associated_monster_gt_truck.htm?session_id= gugmgcwkmhnbvjkcnuqxcqlgijouadud

[MikeWz]

Honestly, that one doesn't look like it's going to be all that much lighter. Not enough difference to make a big deal of. If you're really not going to race I'd just go with the R/C Solutions one. The RCS one looks like it's much better quality.

[Cotharyus]

I was actually talking about the smallest one on there, which I think they give a weight on. The biggest problem I have currently is that my roll bar seems to bend very easily. Of course, I've dumped my MGT on it's lid rather hard twice now, and not done damage to anything but a body mount, other than bending the roll bar.

[RDucky02]

hmmmm installed the venom speed meter.... well have to see just how fast this truck is...

[MikeWz]

If you're talking about the one I think you are (only two bars going through the middle) it looks to be pretty usless unless you land perfectly upside down. If not you're still gonna hit other stuff pretty hard and prolly mess it up. If it's the money you're worried about at least get the New Era full cage. If it's weight you're worried about (for racing) it's not worth even really getting a roll cage.

[RDucky02]

very true... although the larger engine is making good power i can without a doubt tell a difference in performace. and to be honest, im comtemplating using the rc solutions cage any longer or not....

[Cotharyus]

Has anyone else had a problem stripping screws out of the rear bumper brace? Is there a good cure for this? Here's the parts I'm taking about

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFUJ0&P=M

I think I need to keep it off the back wheels when I land....:)

[MikeWz]

Yo you must be smacking the back up pretty good. All I can think of is work on driving it in the air a bit better. Like, tap the breaks if you're gonna land on the back. That's harsh dude. I've never heard of anybody doin that before :o

[RDucky02]

my problem is that i dont strip the screw but i break the end of the screw off in the brace... thus i have to drill it out or get a new brace.

[Cotharyus]

Hmm...I'll check on that, but I think the screw is in one piece. But yea. What happened to it is actually a couple of bad landings - mostly due to bad takeoffs because of a dodgy ramp surface. It's really not that large a jump, it's just...wierd. Anyhow, the truck landed full on the back bumper because it was standing up coming off the jump, even though I'd already let off the gas. I know how to control the truck in the air, there's just not much room to excersize control on this jump..does that make sense?

[RDucky02]

mother fricker.... another front steering hub/carrier went out yesteday. although i cant blame the first one, i mean metal poles dont move, but this one was bogus. anyone else breaking these? my biggest problem or concern so far is that the blue alum upper arm carriers get ripped out ofthe chassis and strip the hole when they come out.... anyone had this happen yet? 1 of the 2 holes is stripped now... gotta find a bigger screw now...

[RDucky02]

anyone else running a roll cage? how much? who from? and how's its protection? general thoughts on it?

[jphebert]

I found that using tiewraps around the rear bumper brace will prevent the screws from breaking off. Use 4 large ties, insert one through each hole and around the bumper brace and tighten. This will greatly improve the strenght. If you do break off the screws, instead of drilling them out, simply trim off the end of the brace to expose the broken screw and twist it out with vise grips.

[Cotharyus]

Yep. I popped a front knuckle sunday at the track. Of course, I hung that front wheel on the corner of a rather solid ramp at about 25mph too. No roll cage just yet, but I have been thinking about it.

[MikeWz]

Sometimes associated pisses me off. They do stupid stuff just to get more money. I have to freaking buy the screws that hold the bumper to the brace...because it doesn't come with them when you buy 'em. How stupid is that. I completely lost my bumper in the crash and wasn't even able to find the stupid part. Com'on. It's like installing a freaking reverse on a highly race capable truck KNOWING FULL WELL that everybody is going to buy a FOC. Why couldn't they do what HPI did and make the reverse mod available aftermarket. DAMN IT :mad:

[RDucky02]

I also agree but disagree with Mike's post. I also had to buy the damn screws when I had to replace a bumper, little did I realize that when I ordered it from tower. anyway, it sucks that they do that. However its good because you can buy extra screws in bundles and throw em in your pit box as spares. My thought is that you should includes screws separtly but also in the package.

As for the FOC I dont think that they should have done a reverse module rather included the FOC. By not having hte module you cept everything in the truck neater, but not having to put in a module. 18 dollars isnt going to make my hobby store ritch or break me so I really dont care. but i think they should throw it in just in case your going to race it.

[MikeWz]

Aye, they should throw it in. $15 isn't going to make or break me, you, the LHS, OR THEM. Oh well, whatever. I do like how you can buy the screws in bags...but why not include the 8 freakin screws in the package? They're like $.05. Whatever

Hey, I just got an airtronics 94358 for mah truck. Just wondering what kind of NiMH pack the truck takes. Thanks

[Cotharyus]

Quick question on those screws for the rear bumper - where'd you find them? I searched for the part number on tower and i can't find anything, and I don't see a screw that looks like those.

[MikeWz]

Do you have your assembly guide? It's in the instructions that came with the truck. You could also look on the team associated website under the Monster GT. Just find the picture where the bumper goes on and it shoes the screws with the number. That's what you order.

[MikeWz]

I have to highly recommend getting the Airtronics 94358 servo for steering. I didn't want to because it's so expensive but I finally gave in and got it. There's a HUGE difference. It makes me wonder how I was driving the truck with the std servo. It's expensive but should be the 1st upgrade made on teh truck. Supah nice. Also have an HCR break disk and Zombie Maxx tires coming in the mail. Let you know how they work

[RDucky02]

I was looking into the Zombie Maxx tires, they look aweosme but i wonder about the size of them, smaller than the 40 series... I would like to try a set from the LST on the MGT once it hits the streets. I like the robo brake from the team. although im thinking of some different calipers... let us know how thinks go Mike

[MikeWz]

Yeah totally. Everything should be here by Monday, tuesday the latest. I saw a set of the Zombie Maxx tires at my LHS, but at like $40 a pair for the tires and foams I opted to go ebay for like $60. When I saw them they certainly looked at least the same size as the 40s. Oh well, a lot of people use 40s on the MGT because they're smaller and handle better. It just looks like the Zombie Maxx tires will hook up on ANYTHING. Super soft and aggressive treads

[Cotharyus]

Mike - thats what I mean - I punched that part number into the search feature on tower's web site and it couldn't find anything.

As for 40's on the MGT, at the track, we've had serious problems with breaking the 40 series rims. If we just go with a regular bowtie we don't seem to break the rims. Now, I've warped a set...

[RDucky02]

I have done 2 60 min enduros on my 40 series in addition to the 4 enduros that RCRACER2471 put on them. someone had to buy his truck, hey, 2 race trucks means i'm never done for the day when something horrible happens, and least it got a good home. just drop whatever truck i feel more comfortable with that day.

so anyway, 6 enduros on my 40's and no problems, but it may be the way your track is laid out and is hard on the rims.. i dunno.

[fuzzy2133]

Cotharyus - tower hobbies does not a sell team losi. stormer racing, and horizon hobby do.

[MikeWz]

Fuzzy-he's talking about the screws that hold in the MGT bumper. Can your LHS order them for you? That's what I had mine do fer meh.

Will the Zombie Max tires fit on the stock MGT rims, or will I need to buy 40 series rims or something of the like?

[RDucky02]

t maxx tires....

[Cotharyus]

Yea. I suppose I could order them from my LHS. I could also complain about how far away my LHS is, but I won't do that here.

As far as tires go, I made a discovery the other day. My driving style may be better suited to using the stock tires even on the track. It's not quite as responsive, but I turned faster laps with the stock tires than with bowties, and the track is too tight for it to have been because of the larger diameter of the stock tires giving more top end.

[MikeWz]

The stock tires aren't too bad, but I wish they were of a softer compound or something. It seems like when I want to climb a softer dirt mound or something that it doesn't grab as much as I'd like. I got the zombie max tires because they look like the could grab on pretty much anything. Do I need T-maxx rims for them? I mean, I'd rather use the bigger rims but I suppose if I have to I'll go down to T-maxx size rims.

[fuzzy2133]

woops sorry.

Maxx size rims would be the best thin to go with. I have been thinking about streaching a maxx size tire over the stock rim. it would look funny since te side wall would be pulled thin. I am not even positive the tires would make the streach.

[MikeWz]

Well I'll try and go for the stretch. I'll at least go for the 40 series rims because they're a bit bigger. If they fit stock, maybe the thin sidewall would actually benefit the roll characteristics. I'll have to see as soon as they come in.

[MikeWz]

Well I took a truck for a run today with the new servo and with the Hardcore Racing brake disk. Def worth the money. I can actually LOCK the tires on pavement now. It stops super nice. I highly recommend it. The servo is also totally nice. Steers faster and stronger, able to power through fairly think grass.

[RCNitroDude999]

Hey guys, check this out. It isnt anything special but I was watching the new episode of American Chopper (I,Robot Bike 1) and noticed several MGT boxes stacked against a wall in the background, i thought that was pretty cool, anyone else notice it?

[MikeWz]

Well I got out to test everything new on the truck the other day (with the exception of the Zombie Max tires as they're not here yet). The HCR brake disc def works MUCH better. I can lock the tires on pavement. I actually had to adjust the brake to be LESS sensative. It works super nice now. The 358 Steering servo is also MUCH better than stock and easily worth the $100 for it. You can really whip the truck around fast now. I'll be setting up the truck with two red and two gold springs front and rear so we'll see how it handles.

[MikeWz]

FINALLY got those zombie max tires in the mail the other day. I mounted them up. I haven't been able to use them yet as the wheather has really sucked here lately, but I'm planning on using them tomorrow as long as it's clear. They look super nice...and they fit PERFECT btw. They are just SLIGHTLY smaller than the MGT stock tires, so they should perform a bit better as there won't be as much side-wall flex. These things look/feel like they could stick to my ceiling.

[RDucky02]

wondering real quick what rims you glued them too?

[badboy2]

hey rducky i emailed u about the mgt i got from u i just have a few questions thanks ..

[MikeWz]

They're actually the stock MGT rims. Fit fine. When you sit the car down, you can tell that they're smaller, but it's not much. I got to run them today. They are definitely worth while. They provide excellent traction, especially for climbing stuff. I was climbing some pretty massive dirt piles today and there was definitely a noticeable difference. I also put the MIP Shiney CVDs in the center. They are also very nice. They provide better acceleration and also a bit more top-end as they are slightly lighter and takes off some rotating mass (3x heavier than static mass). If you do get them, you'll have to cut out your own mark so that the pins look like this ----_---- or they'll come out like the old associated ones did. The new associated pins don't fit in them. They're too wide.

Seems like I've been the only one around lately. Everybody giving up on this truck? I wouldn't trade it for anything out there right now. Handles amazing, super reliable and super durable. Also REALLY easy to work on. Def highly recommend.

[badboy2]

hey guys idk if i have to make a new thread or not but since most of u mgt owners are here i need to ask a questioon..i got a used mgt from a fellow forum member and after 1 month of just sitting in my work are i finally found a time to put everything in to make it run..and i found out that the skid plate screw mounts wont match the holes .if i put the screws on the braces the skid would have a 1.5mm gap from the chassis and the bellcranks wont even turn the wheels cuz they r blocked by the arms ..im askin the guy i traded with on what mods or maybe hits he had woth this truck but he said he didnt have any so its hard for me to diagnose pls help cuz i got 5 trucks and all arent workin

[badboy2]

the arrow points where i put the screw on the right spot on the brace but look at the gap of the chassis and the skid

[badboy2]

now on this one if i mount it on the diff case the one the brace falls back ..idk if there is some hidden bends or damage but right now im just mad

[badboy2]

hopefully someone can figure out this one cuz im tired from this morning trying to figure out how i can put the skid and the steering posts

[Cotharyus]

Mike, I'm still here, just been stupid busy with work. I've been trying to think of ways to get this truck a little lighter. Has anyone tried the new (copper? - they're heavier than red) springs on a four shock setup?

[MikeWz]

Badboy-Try getting a new skid plate for the front. It just looks like it's bent a little off. That's all it looks like to me honestly. I think a new one would fix it

Coth-I hear ya. Work isn't too much fun. There are a few ways to make the truck a bit lighter. You can grind down the mud guards a bit, get either the AE Factory chassis or the Hardcore Racing chassis, just use the little bumper guards as bumpers themselves. Little things can make a big difference.
Right now I'm running Red and Gold springs. I have 4 on each and it seems to work really well. It definitely works well with the Losi Zombie Max tires.

[Cotharyus]

Yea - I've been doing little things like:

Lower the body as far as you can. Now cut off the excess body post.
Cut the servo mounts for the reverse servo off the radio tray.
I'm getting ready to cut the edges down on the mud guards.

How does the weight of the zombie max tires compare to the weight of the stockers? During some of my testing, I've played with some standard proline bow ties on proline speed rims, and decided that it lightened the bottom of the truck up too much - acceleration was ballistic with the bow ties (they weigh over a pound per set less than the stockers) but the truck would turn over at nothing.

I've got a whole list of things I'd like to do to the truck to lighten it/make it more drivable, but it's a $$$ thing. I am interested in seeing that hardcore chasis though...

[RDucky02]

Badboy, Emailed you about the pics. and what to do.

[RDucky02]

I went and looked for the Hardcore Chassis... That chassis crazy... I would so sell my RC Solutions Cage and towers for that chassis. That chassis is soooo nice. I will have to wait and see what the coming paycheck says though. But I love that chassis, very nice looking. Plus its Ti/Al so its pretty strong... Titanium is soft but doesnt sheer too easily. Any running it?

[Cotharyus]

Where'd you actually find a picture of it?

[badboy2]

i fixed it ..it was wedge on top of the diff case they were put in the other way

[RDucky02]

Coth- i found the picture on hardcore racing web site. www.racinghardcore.com they come in a variety of colors. i just might put my rc solutions cage on the market for sale. prolly on the sale board here before i go to ebay.

i was driving home today and found something really awesome. they are building alot of custom homes in my area because of the mortage rates or whatever. so apparently the street over got a bit torn up, so they have this drainage ditch that trucks have been driving down instead, and the grass go really bad. so they groomed it and platned seed and covered it with hay and then this platic netting. so its a long straight away that leads right into an insane jump and then after its all going to be grass. the transission from the street to the grass is super smooth and then the jump is right away. i would hit it now but i can only think of the havock the plastic netting on top of the hay would cause if i landed upsdie down. think of a plastic net wrapping around your car as it carwheeled along.... dont think i will try it just yet. plus i wont help grass grow for a softer cushion if i tear it all up. so i will take some pics and have to wait for the fall when hopefully everuything should be set.

till then i will see if i can come wup with the money for that chassis. selling back my books tomorrow, and i got paid so hopefully tuition wont be too killer. that and i am gonna buy one of the 94358 servos. badboy said that his friend had one and it turned out real bad, but ive onl;;y heard good things. besides if its not what i expect i can still sell it off or use in another truck or car, maybe that kyosho mp 777.... have fun

Dave

[MikeWz]

Yeah I put that chassis above the Fantom FR-27. I saw it about a month back on the MGT forum and was VERY impressed. Looks like it will be quite a bit lighter than the stocker. Then comes the FR-27

Coth-The Zombie tires are a bit lighter than the stock, but not a huge amount. Running a red/gold combo with those tires I haven't flipped it yet. They provide a good amount of side bite, but not too much where on an extreme turn they'd traction roll it. I highly recommend them

[RDucky02]

Mike- what are you running your trucks on? grass, pavement, dirt, loose dirt, gravel, concrete, mix or a race surface? thanks

[jh99]

Does anyone know the top speed of the MGT?

[RDucky02]

jh99 - RCCA got it around like 32-37 or something. 35 i would say. but when i drove it with the stock motor it seems so much faster. the truck is so big that is a misconception of how fast its really going. i put in the .26 and its much quicker. but the stock motor is an excellent start.

[jh99]

Will the shaft/drill start work if you put a new engine in the truck?

[RDucky02]

with the .26 there are conversions available but ive never seen one on it. i just use the pull start. it isnt that hard to do. after using electric start and the drill start they just arent worth the hassle. a few quick pulls on the engine and it fires up. but there are companies out there who make special back plates, ofna being one of them and i run there ofna picco .26. so they should have a kit for there engine.

[MikeWz]

Ducky-I pretty much run on everything. Pavement, loose dirt, packed dirt, rockey stuff. They work real well all around. I've found they much better for getting up fairly loose steep hills too. I drive in an abandon sand mine so it's a big huge flat dirt area with massive hills all around. There's also a REALLY LONG shallow incline on one side with a whoop section about 100yrds long. They truck handles really well in there. My buddy runs an NMT2 in there and it just kinda dissapears and the MGT just kind runs over them like "yeah whatever". It takes it like nothing.

[Cotharyus]

Mike - I'll say this, I have an NMT that's ballistic. On a groomed surface (track) I can turn out lap times with the NMT that are unreal. The MGT is a lot slower, but part of that is that I haven't had a whole year to tinker with the handling. But off road...man does the MGT ever eat up anything smaller. The size makes just running it around somewhere for fun ..well, fun.

[RDucky02]

Yeah so I am going to go for an entirely different set up I think.

Looking to sell my RC Solutions Cage and Front and Rear Shock towers, all in silver. I will be posting in a few mins in the for sale area. 125 shipped/obo. PM me if your interested. Its in excellent shape. ill post pics in the sale forumn. ill keep it short and not plss anyone off

[RDucky02]

I am talking to the shop I ordered the cage and towers from and they gave me a price of 155+8 for shipping, no tax. any of you see the hardcore chassis on a truck yet? the chassis looks sick as we've decided but i dont know the advantages over the AE Factory Team blue chassis. wonder if its lighter or not.... but i love the look of it. 75 or 150.... its gonna be a tough decision. the hardcore looks sweet but is it 75 more awesome? anyone konw any idea on the weight of the two chassis'?

[Cotharyus]

The weight on the AE chasis is published in at least two places. I've never seen a weight on the hardcore chasis, nor seen it on a truck. I would hope that it's lighter, but you have to take into acount that it appears to eliminate the need for the splash guards too.

[RDucky02]

coth dude - yea it does eliminate the need for the splash guards. i konw the factory team is lighter than the stock by like 8 ounces or something i think. maybe someone else will correct me on that. anyway, by selling my cage and shock towers i have enough money to get the hardcore so i think i will go for it because its unique and awesome as fuk. (<---that word is german or soemthing for awesome again).

and second Cotharyus.... what does that name mean? ive been dying to ask you.....

[MikeWz]

The associated chassis really isn't all that much lighter than the stock. Somebody on the monster GT forum has one and said it's not really a big deal. It's really $80 just to look pretty. I'd say the most important upgrade is prolly shocks. If you have the stock shocks, you should get some nice new ones: Like the integy or FT shocks. That'll make a really big difference on the car.

[RDucky02]

already running different shocks.... one of the first upgrades i did... think mike here doesnt pay attention

[Cotharyus]

Hmm..lots here.
Ducky - When you take the old chasis off, weigh it and the hardcore one, and let me know what they weigh. I've been using a set of digital postal scales that weighs to the 1/10th ounce to keep track of how much weight I've taken off my truck. As for my name, its sort of a mythology thing, but its not popular mythology, so no one has ever heard of it. Cotharyus (pronounced Koth-R-E-us) was a powerful god, the god of creation and destruction. One of those two faced, two sided, good god bad god deals. Anyhow, I just think it sounds cool. Well, ok, and I can break just about anything....

Mike - Talk to me about shocks. What makes the integy shocks better, and what sort of oil/spring combo are you running? (ducky, you can throw in on this too) I'm trying to get my truck to like staying on it's tires better than on it's lid, and I know that some of the answer is suspension - I just need to play with it some. Any advice for starting points?

[RDucky02]

I run the Integy shock without the piggy backs. When I first started I thought I would be racing more with both trucks so I bought 2 sets (16 shocks) of the integy shocks without the reservoirs. to me it was all about shaving weight and i still dont think the resorviors make that big of a difference, just suppposd to get most consisted damping. but i dunno. anyway i run without the reserviors, maybe Mike can help with how he feels about the reserviors.

i run trinity springs, 4 blue and 4 black. got the truck to stand up a bit more with the added weight of the cage, however after i get the the cage off and run the hardcore chassis i will prolly run 8 blue spirngs. once i get the chassis i will try to weigh them, the LHS has a great scale so i can throw it one htere and see.

and coth god dude... awesome story...

[RDucky02]

check out your wheel tire combo to stop flipping as well....

[Cotharyus]

Right - the wheel tire combo that's so bad about flipping (but good about everything else) is the velocity rims with bowties. Much snappier than the stockers, but it goes over so easy. The stockers seem rock solid as far as staying upright, but they just don't have the bite that the bowties do. Any suggestions?

[MikeWz]

Ducky-I remember you had a list of stuff and showed pictures of your truck, but I don't remember exactly what you had :p

Coth-Integy or the Factory Team shocks are the way to go. I personally would keep the piggy backs on there. You'll find that they help not on the big jumps, but on rythm type sections. I find they help quite a bit in soaking up fast small jumps. On bigger jumps there's not really a difference (at least not that I can see. And they really don't make all that much difference in weight.
As for spring combos. I don't know anything about trinity shocks and their weight ratings, so you'll have to ask ducky about that, but I've found 4 red and 4 gold springs do the job well. I haven't had any problem flipping since then. It also may be the Zombie Maxx tires. The combo together seems to work well. The side walls are just slightly smaller so there is less flex...hence less chance to flip. The shocks provide much more damping without becoming overly stiff. I run reds on the outside two shocks, and gold on the insides and have no plans of changing anytime soon.

If you wanna make up for the weight difference of the piggy backs, you can free up your drive train a bit and run some Acer racing ceramic bearings, but it'll cost you about $100 for a set. They're welll worth the price IMO though. They should give you the speed you lost in putting on the piggy backs. They sell complete sets that'll change out ALL bushing/bearins on your truck. Like the blue FT set...only like 20X better.

[Cotharyus]

Mike - You're saying that you feel like the ultimate shock combo is the integy shock with piggybacks and one red spring and one gold spring on each corner? What weight oil are you running with that? Have you seen/given any thought to the powerstroke shocks?

[RDucky02]

ordered the hardcore... 160, shipped, no tax.... better than any other price i could find. tower would do 15 dollars off with there members deal but i would get taxed. i hate taxes. anyway, illlet you know when i get back from vaca about the weight and how it looks on there. should look kick a

[MikeWz]

Coth-I've never seen the powerstroke shocks. Are those the pro-line ones? If so I've never heard of anybody using them. I'm running the stock weight, whatever that is. Maybe 40? But I'm using stock oil and stock pistons. I found that with the Integy shocks and gold and red combo to work really well. If you order the Integy shocks get the new ones. They're the #5s, not the #4s. And make sure you get them for the MGT and NOT the T-maxx.

[Cotharyus]

Ducky - sweet. Defidently keep us updated on that.

Mike - Yes, the stock weight is 40. What's the difference between the tmaxx shocks and the mgt shocks?

[MikeWz]

I believe they are a bit shorter, but don't quote me on that. I know that RCRACER had to fit them onto his MGT. He got them when the MGT had first come out and Integy hadn't made shocks that were actually for the MGT yet. I'm not exactly sure what it entails, but they do have the newer shocks out and they have them for the MGT. I have to update to the newer ones at somepoint, but it's not high on my priority list as these are just fine. I need a Fantom FR27 and a hardcore chassis yet.

[GTX]

What is the process for converting a Savage input gear into the MGT tranny? I know I have to drill, but what size and what size shims? Roll pins? What else? What's the whole process???

I ate my input gear in 7 tanks!

[Cotharyus]

You mean the spur gear? I've not ever heard of this. I've been told that the spur gears are weak, but I've raced my MGT, bashed it, etc, etc, and not had a single problem with the spur. Try using a stock spur gear and making sure your mesh is right.

[GTX]

No, not the spur gear. I've been in R/C too long to not know what gear that is ;)

It's the 2 speed input gear. I chipped three teeth and the rest are shark fins. You can take a Savage 2 speed input gear (18T-23T) and modify it to fit in the MGT tranny. The plastic MGT 2 speed input just can't withstand the power. I killed mine on the 7th tank (total).

[Cotharyus]

Eh? what engine are you running? the stocker? That's too strange...

[GTX]

Stock everything. I have been a bit hard on the throttle, but it IS the stock engine.

Oh well. I did a comparison on the two gears and the AE gear has just a little more plastic on it. That's why I bought the shims. If I do need to drill it out, I don't think it will be extensive.

I plan to do a full write up and put it on my website.

The URL for the project MGT tranny mod is http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/mgtmods.html

If it says "no webpage found", try again later. Thanks! ;)

[MikeWz]

Did you put in the FOC? All I can think of is maybe something is wrong with the shims for the FOC. Maybe the where cut wrong and your gears didn't line up right. I have almost a gallon through my MGT right now and haven't really had any problems with the tranny. At first after I put in the FOC I had a problem with the shafts not going into the bearings, but I got that all figured out and it's been perfect. This is honestly the first I've ever heard of this.

[MikeWz]

Well I went out bashing with Speedballtrix today. We got to a place that's really MT country. There are some massive hills, whoops and nice jumps. The ground has quite a few bumps/dips and some decent sized rocks. Well the first time I was there with him I still had stock suspension and tires. This time I had my new shock set-up (red/gold) and zombie maxx tires. Well his NMT2 melted the spur so we were trading on and off. I went to go get my fuel and let him take the controls. He was doing some high speed runs (so I heard). When I came back he said he was TRYING to flip it, and he couldn't. Even with the bumps and rocks the thing didn't flip. Then there's this nice off-road track...that's not really a track. It's a big sand field-like area with some raised hills with grass in the middle. There are some decent jumps and such in there. We both found that you can push the truck really hard into the turns and not have a problem with flipping or over/under-steer. I think I found my perfect set-up for these conditions :cool:

[Cotharyus]

Sweet. I was able to pick up some goodies Thursday when I went to get a new front bumper - don't ask - it's a two hour drive to the shop, so I called about the bumper, and they had it, and when I got there, the also had a 16T clutch bell that I'll get to putting on once I feel like I've got the suspension worked out, and they had *all* the spring sets. Gold, red, and copper. So now I get to work on my suspension. First I'm trying red/blue on each corner, but I seen a lot of red/red, and I may even try some 80wt shock oil and go four shocks with the copper springs and see how that works. Anyhow, my MGT is on a diet, I knocked another 1.9oz off of it today without spending any money to do it. At some point I suppose I need to find a scale to put it on and see how much it weighs. Some things I'd still like to do:
Hardcore Ti pillowballs
Ti linkage set
FT or hardcore chasis (which one's lighter?)
But those three things are money suckers. I'll get there...

[Zylo]

Is the aftermarket gonna take off on these trucks anytime soon?

I love my MGT, but one of my favorite parts of the hobby is making/painting new bodies.. and I have a VERY limited selection with the MGT :(

[MikeWz]

Zylo-the aftermarket for this truck is pretty nice actually. You have all the FT options, HCR has a part to replace pretty much every part, Golden Horizon has a bunch of parts, then there are the new MIP drivetrain parts, GPM makes pretty much every part in every color.

As for bodies, you can get all the Savage bodies and T-maxx bodies. The T-maxx ones are slightly smaller than the savage ones and can look funny depending on which you get but they do fit.

[fuzzy2133]

I have to agree with Zylo we have limited choices of bodies to choose that are the right demotions or look right on our trucks.

[slaf]

Ducky - sweet. Defidently keep us updated on that.

Mike - Yes, the stock weight is 40. What's the difference between the tmaxx shocks and the mgt shocks?


MGT shocks are 2mm longer than TMaxx shocks

[slaf]

Hi all !

I just ordered my MGT with RPM A-Arms, FOC and Proline 40 Bowties tires. Now I'd like to know what break first. Any comment about CVA, tranny ? I read at some place problem with FOC....

[MikeWz]

Make sure you take out the set screw holding in the pin on the drive shafts. That WILL come out if you don't. Also, make sure that it comes with the pins that look like this -----__-----. If they don't, order them from tower. The stock ones will come out eventually if they aren't those. AE did release these pins later and I'm not sure if they started actually putting them in the truck or not yet.

There's nothing wrong with the FOC kit. If you read it in this forum it was probably just my stupidity that messed it up.

The only parts I've managed to break are:
A front A-Arm
A front bumper and Extensions
A front body post

That's really it. This truck is quite tough

Guys- What are you running as far as Camber and toe-in goes. Just wondering because mine are just kinda randomly set. Not the best set-up but whatever.

[fuzzy2133]

I run with 2-3-degrees camber all around, 1-degree toe out in front, and between 2-3-degrees toe in on the rear. 10k in both diffs.

[MikeWz]

Toe-out in front and toe-in on rear? What exactly does that do for the truck? Do you have a tool to measure the toe-in/out? I had one for my xxx-nt but that's too small. I had the RPM one. Is the stock diff weight 10K?

[Cotharyus]

Toe out up front will make the truck snapier in turns, and twitchy on straights. Toe in on the rear makes it more stable. I've still got my settings basicly stock. I've thought about taking a little toe in off of the back, since anything other than 0 degree toe scrubs speed.

[slaf]

What's your clutch bell and spur setup when Proline 40 tires are used ?

[GTX]

Finished the 2 speed steel input gear mod. Full writeup here:

http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/mgt.html

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/MGT/IM001294a.jpg

[Cotharyus]

Yes...but how does it work?

[fuzzy2133]

Toe-out in front and toe-in on rear? What exactly does that do for the truck? Do you have a tool to measure the toe-in/out? I had one for my xxx-nt but that's too small. I had the RPM one. Is the stock diff weight 10K?
I just use some t-maxx rims (no tires) and use the inside of each rim as a measure point. also the stock diff weight is closest 10K.

[GTX]

Yes...but how does it work?

Maybe if you would read the write up you'd know I haven't been able to run it yet. I only have first gear because my 2 speed shaft broke, which is also on that page.

YOU KNOW THIS MANG!!!!!! :p

[Cotharyus]

Actually, I read the write up - I didn't see the thing about the two speed shaft, but I was hoping that you'd get a chance to run it and tell us how it works.

[GTX]

It's cool. I will be running it soon, probably next week since the shaft just shipped today.

[MikeWz]

I just use some t-maxx rims (no tires) and use the inside of each rim as a measure point. also the stock diff weight is closest 10K.

But how are you measuring. Are you using something like an RPM toe guage or something?

[fuzzy2133]

yes I am using a RPM toe guage and camber guage.

[Sp00n]

When I run my Monster GT I tend to see allot of air bubbles in the fuel line. After my run, around the flywheel and chassie, It looks like fuel has dribbled off the flywheel onto the chassie. What would cause this and should I replace the fuel tubing?

Thanks,
Digital6

[MikeWz]

There should be a small amount of fuel/oil around the clutch bell/flywheel area. This is normal. The engine is supposed to "leak" out of the front bearing. That's just a way of lubricating the bearings. There shouldn't be a puddle or anything.

Are you having tuning trouble? Most of the time if there is a hole in the fuel line or tank your engine won't really hold a tune.

[Cotharyus]

Has anyone blown a diff yet? I think I've got a rear diff going (or gone, depending on how you look at it) and wanted to know what the current options are, is the stock replacement the only thing available?

[RDucky02]

i havent heard of anything besides the stock... getting onxious for the hardcore chassis to arrive. the hobby shop i ordered from had to special order it... they havent gotten it in yet... beginning to want to drive to texas myself...

[MikeWz]

Coth- Unforunately, nobody has anything other than stock (unfortunately). I'm hoping that maybe Robinson Racing will come out with some nice gears. I'm also hoping they make a better slipper kit for it (like the T-maxx one). Speaking of the T-maxx slipper kit from RR, does anybody know if that'll fit? Maybe I'll pick one up and see. Unforuntately, the T-maxx uses a 70+ spur gear or close too. Stupid car :p

[jimbonj]

Mike - you might be interested in this:

http://monstergtforum.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=963&SearchTerms=slipper

[MikeWz]

Thanks, that looks to be a really nice system. Actually looks even better than the RR system. Gonna have to get me one of those. Unfortunately it limits the gearing a bit. Seems that the ofna 51t is the only one that'll work. That may not be too good when the Fantom 27 gets in there :cool: . Gonna need to get a massive clutch bell or something

[jimbonj]

Mike - It looks as though they were able to mod the stock 52T spur:
http://monstergtforum.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=310&SearchTerms=slipper,strobe

Someone on that thread was going to try to mod a 46T but I didn't see any results posted.

[MikeWz]

Well I'm not worried about getting bigger spurs, I'm worried about getting smaller ones. If you slap a .26 or higher on her you're gonna need to gear lower or your gonna have trouble driving because the front wheels won't ever be on the ground.

[Cotharyus]

Ok guys. Now to fix this diff problem. Does anyone know what size the bearings are that are not listed seperately in the manual that go just inside the outdrives on the diff? I'm also having trouble finding number for the screw/pin that goes through the input drive cup to hold it to the pinion shaft - mine dissappeared today.

[GTX]

Is it a clicking sound? I'm gonna need more info about the noise etc.

When I had my Dominator, I had to shim the diffs for it to stop jumping teeth. You might have to do the same.

[Cotharyus]

GTX - I just need the sizes - I've been doing this for 18 years. The bearings that go just inside of the outdrives on the diff (which aren't listed as a seperate part because you can currently only buy the whole assembled diff) are shot, allowing the ring gear to wobble inside the case. Now, once the bearings are fixed, some shimming may do the diff good, but it's jumped around enough now that I need to replace the pinion gear. The ring gear is still fine.

[jimbonj]

I'm also having trouble finding number for the screw/pin that goes through the input drive cup to hold it to the pinion shaft - mine dissappeared today.

Is this what you're looking for:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=25056&FVPROFIL=++

[GTX]

These are the diff bearings:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=25236&FVPROFIL=++

[Cotharyus]

Thanks guys. When I actually pulled the diff appart, I noticed that the bearings I was asking about are identical to the bearings used to support the pinion shaft. I think those two items, a new pinion shaft, and an NTC3 shim kit will solve the diff problem for now. Still sort of want to see what associated thinks about the whole thing though.

[poncho fisher]

Hey what do you think about the RPM a-arms for the MGT?? How are you lowering your RACE MGT's?? Poncho

[MikeWz]

The RPM arms are pretty nice. They're not cheap, but they last forever.

As far as lowering the truck, you have to mount the shocks on the outside holes. Also, get smaller tires/rims. The 40s are smaller but they tend to bend/break a bit, but there are others out there you can get.

[RDucky02]

does anyone run the FT steering kit, the one that cost like 60 bucks or whatever with the servo saver built in? thinking about it... but i dont think i can rationalize the performance ill be gaining, think ill put the 60 into a 94358 like mike. just wondering though, maybe ill change my mind.

[MikeWz]

The 358 will make WAY more difference than the steering kit. I don't run the steering kit, but there's no way it speeds it up that much, and it certainly doesn't add torque, which on a MT is IMO more important then the speed. Eventually I'll probably get the FT steering kit, but I'd say go for the servo first.

[MikeWz]

Wow, finally finished up my first gallon today. This truck just gets better and better. I can't believe how this thing handles...and flies. I was jumping over a person while going full throttle. This kid is about 6-7 so it was fairly decent. I'd say I was going a good 20 ft forward at least. The ramp was only about 1-2 inches wider than the wheel base on each side, but my friend said I hit it like 9 out of 10 times so I'd take that. I wasn't counting. You know how you get the shakes and stuff when doing crazy things...well yeah...that's what I had, so I wasn't paying much attention to that.

One weird thing though. After each big jump, I'd have to lean the needles up a bit. It would get rich. Anybody know why that may happen?

[RCRACER2471]

Maybe the inertia of the truck in mid air pushes more fuel then normal to the carb causing the engine to then get rich and sputter after it lands later causing it to be rich....... :)

[MikeWz]

Honestly, I'd think if anything it'd be the opposite. That the fuel would float in the middle of the tank and make it go lean because it wouldn't reach the bottom or top intakes on the tank. That's what happens to the Full scale Stadium Truck Racers. It's not so much their fuel, as they have pumps to make sure no air gets in the line, but with their oil. They run lean because the oil floats.

[Cotharyus]

I'm not sure how this could happen, but you might make sure everything looks right with your air filter. If the flow of air was somehow restricted, then it'd make you need less fuel as well. Also, make sure the jumping didn't jar your linkages into a different possition.

[RDucky02]

so after forever i finally have the tracking number for my chassis. should see it on sat or def on monday. she said she rushed it there. yay girl at hobby store. so i hope i get it on sat so i have the weekend to tear down the truck. let you know and post pics about the chassis and its weight.

i found a 94358 on ebay for 80 dollars, brand new, went back to it about 10 mins later to get it for the buy it now of 80, gone alredy. very piss offed. damn it all to heck

[slaf]

Hi all !

What clutch bell and spur do you recommend with Proline 40 serie tire/wheels ?

I use stock engine


Thanks

[MikeWz]

I gots me a 358 for like $90 something shipped. RCBOYZ has them for fairly cheap.

Slaf-The stock gearing is fine. It'll bring you up to about 35 and has great acceleration. You may want to stray away from the 40 series rims. They bend pretty easy. Go stock rims and Zombie Max Tires :cool:

[Cotharyus]

Engine time guys. My engine started showing signs of wearing out today at the track (2.5 gallons with race tuning - not bad for a RTR engine) by doing things like randomly cutting out at low throttle (and yes, the glowplug is good) so I'm looking at a new engine, probly a Fantom .27 since it seems to have a good reputation, and it's not a $300+ engine. I've been led to understand that I'll have to have a different engine mount to mount anything but a Thunder Tiger engine in the MGT - whats the word on that, and where about's would someone get one?

[GTX]

I think you do have to find a new mount, but not sure. F27 is a great engine.


I have a question: How many turns out is the 2speed shift screw stock? I can't find my shift point and I was wondering if anyone would be brave enough to find out for me!

[RDucky02]

i run the ofna sirio .26 and i use the stock motor mount, no problem, little annoying trying to get the motor mounted on the mount though.... stupid nuts....

i got the hardcore chassis today. awesome. so far i have assembled it, yes ASSEMBLED it. it comes in 4 pieces. top plate, bottom plate, and 2 side girders. the bottom plate covers the tranny, kinda cool. the top plate is pretty unbendable and is abot 2 mm 2.5 mm thick. its very very light, super light. super strong, just as strong as the stock from what i can tell but i dont have an engineering degree/apparatus but i could get the jaws of life or an 8 ton fire engine.... so yeah... the girders are silver not blue, much to my dismay. not what they showed on the net, but the silver is a nice accent and not terribly bad. kinda interesting. so i loctited all the ubermillon metric scerws you put in. the finish got dulled because of it, ill attack it tomorrow with a dremel to see if i can pretty it up before bring it to get weighed and putting my stuff on it. by that i mean use a polishing bit in the dremel, not try to shed more weight on this incredibly weight chassis. when i hold it i feel more like im holding the chassis to a tc3.... taking apart tomorrow. shouldnt be too hard since the truck seems to come apart in chunks. ill give you guys some details tomrrow and the final pics... then some serious bashing reviews...

[Fantom 15 gt]

Sounds good, I've almost saved enough money to order my MGT. Can't wait!

[RDucky02]

yes so after taking apart the truck. it was relatively painless. took about 2 hours total, i also had to remove the cage thats mostly why. it was easy to move the diffs because the whole front and rear ends came out in huge huge pieces. it was kinda interesting doing it that way rather than doing it some other way. it looks wicked awesome. only part that stinks is that after assembling everything i tried to hook back up the steering, the bellcranks hit the silver plates and wont go past, only fix is to dremel the screw down and not use lock nuts... which means ill use a jam nut with a heafty load of loctite.

totals...

stock chassis (without plastic guards): .8 lbs= 12.8 ounces
FT blue chassis (without plastic guards): .74 lbs= 11.84 ounces
hardcore chassis.... 15 ounces, needs no plastic guards....

will see how performance is.... in the mean time i got my eye on an LST.... i have never owned a losi product, an associated lover from day one... we'll see if i turn to the dark side. of course wouldnt get rid of the MGT... that would just be stupid.

[Cotharyus]

Hmm. How much do those dust guards weigh again?

[RDucky02]

those dust guards dont weigh enough to make me think that the hardcore was worth the money I spent for it.... but it looks pretty cool. well see how things go.

[MikeWz]

Yeah....that is awfully expensive. You know why, it's because they use metal stuff instead of the guards. They extend the alunium out for the radio box and fuel tank. It does look really pimp though.

I've been a losi guy since I started, but this truck impressed me. Mind you I got it way before the Losi was out...even announced. They make some awesome stuff.

[slaf]

I just got my MGT today but before starting it I'll do some modification like...

1) Proline 40 Series Bowtie
2) RPM blue a-arms on 4 corners
3) 18T clutch bell, 49t spure
4) Forward only kit (BO)
5) Fuel filter
6) 8 red shock springs
7) Venom hump pack
8) Dynamite micro fail safe


Any recommendation before I start and break in....?

[Cotharyus]

Yea, don't use the 40 series. The rims for 40's won't hold up to the weight of the MGT, or anything much other than the Tmaxx. Your gearing looks a little tall to me, but that's just me.

[MikeWz]

Yeah...that's a little tall for the stock engine

And, you may want to buy a few different sets of springs.

[badboy2]

which body fits mgt?

[RDucky02]

theres a new body out from pro-line. its the F-150 super crew cab. its made out of .60 lexan. super thick, .20 thicker than everything else out on the market. it fits all the big MT's (MGT, TNX, LST....). otherwise you can buy a clear MGT body (associated) or make a tmaxx/savage boduy fit....

[slaf]

Here's what was in the mailbox yesterday :) I know it's another stock MGT but there was not enough pic on the thread....

[MikeWz]

Hey man, nothing wrong with that. It's exciting to just bust it out from the box...just wait man. Once you start ripping with that thing you'll never want to put it down :cool:

[slaf]

What's your suspension setup for racing when using Proline 40 series tires ?

[MikeWz]

Don't use 40 series tires...unless you can find a way to mount them on other rims. The 40 series rims are super flexible.

I personally find that running 2gold and 2 red Front and Back works the best. I haven't been able to roll the truck except when drifting around a baseball diamond and catching the grass lip...but that's to be expceted. The response is much better too...that also may be from the spuah nice Zombie Maxx tires :p

[Cotharyus]

I'm running regular bowties with a 4 shock setup. Copper springs and 70 weight oil.

[Cotharyus]

Maybe I should preface that last post with the fact that my MGT weighs a grand total of 10lbs.

[MikeWz]

What'd you do to get the truck so light? Shocks don't weigh THAT much. I'm looking to make the truck as light as possible...but also bashable. And when I say bash...I mean HARD

[Cotharyus]

lots of little things. This might not cover all of it, but here's the list of the top of my head.
Bow ties & Velocity rims (this is huge, knocked off over a pound)
FOC (duh)
Remove silver bumper exensions
Cut both bumpers off over the brace
Cut reverse servo mounts out of radio tray
trim sides down on mud guards
remove unused starting mechanism(s)?
4 shock setup

There might be some more, but that's just what I can remember. I've left the roll bar in place to help protect the engine some, and I think the bumpers will still serve thier purpose. Things I'd still like to do:
Ti hingepins
Ti turnbuckles
Ti Pillowballs
FT Chasis

[MikeWz]

Everything at the bottom of the list sounds like stuff I'm gonna do. I don't plan on going 4 shocks though...gotta admit I'm a fan of the 8 shock system. I WILL find a way to take out the entire radio tray. I'll get a stick pack and mount it on top of the mud guard with zip-ties like in the R/C Nitro issue. Grinding down the mud-guards will work too. The Bumpers just look too sick to get rid of...and considering I'm not really racing that's not a big deal. I guess all of that's not really a big deal...all the lighter to fly higher though :D

[slaf]

I tried the 18/49 clutch spur ratio and you were right....Too large for the stock engine but it was really funny to see my MGT going so fast :)

I went back with a 15/49 and it's perfect for the BMX track.

But now I have a new question...

How can I prevent my chassis to hit the ground when landing ? 40 tires are so much lower than stock. I use stock oil (40) and red springs.

Please stop telling me that velocity 40 wheel bends :):) :)

[Fantom 15 gt]

Thicker shock oil and springs. Smaller holed shock pistons also.

[slaf]

Thicker shock oil and springs. Smaller holed shock pistons also.


What effect on the truck handling ?

[Cotharyus]

Go get some Copper springs, and some 60 weight shock oil. It'll make the truck stiff, and bouncy going over bumps, but it shouldn't bottom out much jumping unless you really air it out.

[MikeWz]

If you're running an 8 shock set-up, you're gonna want to stay away from 60wt oil and copper springs. Bouncey is bad. You'll also have a tendecny to roll...because there'll be no give...or not enough of it.
Try running 40-50wt oil (I'm still running stock oil actually) and using a 2/2 combo of Red and Gold springs both front and rear. It's much stiffer than stock, but with enough give that you'll never flip it 'cept if you catch yourself on a high traction surface during a drift.

[slaf]

If you're running an 8 shock set-up, you're gonna want to stay away from 60wt oil and copper springs. Bouncey is bad. You'll also have a tendecny to roll...because there'll be no give...or not enough of it.
Try running 40-50wt oil (I'm still running stock oil actually) and using a 2/2 combo of Red and Gold springs both front and rear. It's much stiffer than stock, but with enough give that you'll never flip it 'cept if you catch yourself on a high traction surface during a drift.

I'm running stock oil too. What about your ride height, arms level and shock spacers ?

[MikeWz]

No, my arms aren't level. They may be if I was racing...in fact I'd probably want them to be. But as for me and my bashing I have:
1 medium shock spacer on the red springs
1 big shock spacer on the gold springs
Shocks are all mounted on the outter hole on the bottom arm (it's kinda like upper right I guess).
Although, these zombie maxx tires are slightly smaller than stock, the sidewall is smaller and so that helps to reduce side roll. If you're running stock tires...well..CHANGE :p

[slaf]

Check this on page 2.... -> http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/setup/MGTsetup_textonly.pdf


This might help for suspension settings

[MORTER MAN]

Yo all I just ordered a MGT off tower, I ma goign to have ot make payments but oh well thats the price I pay, any way I am not new to nitro so it should be a walk in the park. any tips i need to know? stuff I need to do? all I know is when I got my savage it need work [IE back plate nee to be re locktited or it would fall off] and if I had nto done that it would have ruined my engine, any way thanks for the help.

[fuzzy2133]

6 volt RX pack plugged into channel 4 (on stock rx), replace the spring on the brake linkage with fuel tubing and plenty of fuel you won't wanna stop.

[MikeWz]

Any of you guys running thicker oil or the two hole shock pistons? I'm trying to find a way to make my truck bottom out a bit less. I figure I was jumping about 6-7ish feet, and it was making divots in the ground...almost like a golf divot. It's because the front of the truck digs in when it lands (even though it's pretty much perfectly level).

[Skandranon]

Anyone got a link to the zombie max tires you are talking about?

[MikeWz]

You WILL get them :p
I've been running them for about 1/2 gallon now and I have no plans on changing.

Here you go:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44016&item=5917792663&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

[Cotharyus]

Mike, I'm running 50wt in my four shock setup. Mind you, I'm not stuck on this four shock thing, I'm just trying stuff. I think my next step is going to be using 8 shocks, keeping my current setup, and using blue springs on the second set of shocks. As for two hole pistons, I thought about it, but I haven't done it. Another thing I may try is 80wt oil in the four shock setup instead of 50 wt.

[Skandranon]

Thanks for the link. Wow $50 for a set. Is that about what they go for? How many gallons of fuel about do they last before you have to replace them?

[MikeWz]

In my LHS, they sell for about $30 (without tax included) for a pair. So, $50 is actually pretty good. That's about what I payed for mine. They're well worth it.
I have about 1/2 gallon through mine, and they only reason you can tell they're used is because they're dirty. There's no sign of actual wear

[Skandranon]

Well very soon I am getting a MT. I think I have finally decided on the MGT. I was going to get the LST but I don't want to deal with the issues they seem to be having. So my question is what upgrades should I get right away for the mgt?

I know I need to get different springs, I saw the 2 color combo listed above.
I think I will be holding off on the tires at least at first.
I will be getting a new steering servo, just not right away. Is there a servo that works allot better than the stock one for less than $100? I am thinking about a JR X3, will the servo that comes with that work well?
I want to get the RPM arms, it says $11 buck a pair, you need 4 pair right?
If I stay with stock arms for awhile will that be a problem?
Is there anything else I am missing?
I want to make my truck as bulletproof as possible. I do not care about bling! I will probably do it in stages. Thanks for your help! :)

[MikeWz]

Well, you don't really NEED to get the RPM arms. I've only managed to break one arm in a years worth (1 gallon due to school) of bashing. And I do mean BASHing.
FOC is pretty much a necessity. Accel faster, faster top-end and even turns better.
Best steering servo IMO is the airtronics 94358, on ebay you can find a brand new one for like $90. Very much so worth it.

Use loctite on the set screws for the drive pins or there's a very good chance you'll lose them. That's pretty much it.

[Skandranon]

I would really like to have reverse though. Why would it turn better I am wondering?

You are running stock shocks?

[fuzzy2133]

I am thinking having less rotating mass in the drive train helps to get the truck turning, along with the fact the truck is almost a pound lighter overall with the FOC.

[slaf]

Well very soon I am getting a MT. I think I have finally decided on the MGT. I was going to get the LST but I don't want to deal with the issues they seem to be having. So my question is what upgrades should I get right away for the mgt?

I know I need to get different springs, I saw the 2 color combo listed above.
I think I will be holding off on the tires at least at first.
I will be getting a new steering servo, just not right away. Is there a servo that works allot better than the stock one for less than $100? I am thinking about a JR X3, will the servo that comes with that work well?
I want to get the RPM arms, it says $11 buck a pair, you need 4 pair right?
If I stay with stock arms for awhile will that be a problem?
Is there anything else I am missing?
I want to make my truck as bulletproof as possible. I do not care about bling! I will probably do it in stages. Thanks for your help! :)

There is nothing wrong with stock a-arms. I changed mine for blue RPM but stock ones was good.

If you wanna bash, you don't really need to change shock springs, tires and servos. MGT is a really good truck out of the box :) But if you are like me and like to have something a little bit different you cam go with...

- Blue RPM A-Arms
- Red shock springs
- FOC
- Proline Velocity 40 wheels + Bowtie

[Jamie]

We have been racing our MGT's all season with great success (12 gallons of fuel between 2 MGT's). The only thing we changed were the tires and the gearing to compensate for the smaller maxx size tires. The only thing we have broken are a few steering knuckles. The stock shocks and and springs work perfect on rough tracks and the red springs offer a slight improvement in bodyroll on smooth tracks. We are using JRXS3's and the stock servos which work fine also. Like slaf said, the "MGT is a really good truck out of the box". :cool: If you use the stock radio do the receiver mod and you will be good to go.

[MikeWz]

It is a good truck out of the box, but there are fairly inexpensive ways to make it better :p

FOC not only makes the truck lighter (easier for the wheels to turn), but that's one less servo sucking energy from your batts. Hence, more to your other servos.

Also, the truck does take a little while to stop in stock form, so you may want a better Brake Disc. I have the HCR in there and it works REALLY good.

[Skandranon]

Ok, sweet. All that said I am going to buy a MGT and just work on it as it goes. Now all I need is just a little more cash. I have my nmt for sale on ebay, hopfully when that sells I will have all of it! :D

[Skandranon]

What do you guys think of this servo for the mgt?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN688&P=7

[MikeWz]

Honestly, I say pass on the servo for now. Put the steering servo into the 4th spot on the RX, and buy the FOC. That's all that you'll really want for now.
As for the servo, you WILL want the 94358 servo. That hitec servo is way too weak/slow for a truck this size. It is expensive, but you'll see that, if you get the hitec servo, it's not really any better than stock. You'll wish you'd have saved for the better one. Just wait untill you can afford it. You'll be happy.

[Jamie]

What do you guys think of this servo for the mgt?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN688&P=7

The stock steering servo is 111 oz/in so the one on Tower is less than 1/2 that. I think you will find the stock servo just fine to start with. Just remove the battery power plug from it's normal position in the receiver to the channel 4 slot to bypass the BEC circut in the receiver and get the full 6 volts to the servos instead of the 4.8 supplied by the BEC circut. Replace the spring on the brake linkage with a piece of fuel tubing to improve the brakes. Also check the slipper adjustment as it was locked down tight on the 2 MGT's we received. I think this was part of the cause of tranny failures on the first MGT thucks. Also check out the Monster GT Forums (http://monstergtforum.com/forum/) if you haven't already. Another good source of info on the MGT.

[Skandranon]

Ops. I just looked at that link again and I posted the wrong one. I wanted to put up the link to Hitec HS-645MG witch is 133 oz. I did not know that the stock one was 111 so that helps. Thnks for the info and the link to the forum!

[rc10bob]

Hi Guys. Need a little help here, I am building a MGT for dirt oval racing, my question is there are four engines that i like they are. (wasp 26) (sirio 27) (24.7) (Mark 26) also which muffle i only need low and oval racing. Really need help here.

[MikeWz]

Get the Sirio .27 pro (the expensive one). It has less bottom end than the others, but more top-end, which is probably what you'll be looking for to race oval.
As for pipe, I highly recommend the Fantom dual chamber pipe. That helps smooth out the power band and brings the RPMs up a little higher giving it even more top-end (also helps a little on the bottom end). On top of that, you'll find your run times increase. Definitly a plus

[rc10bob]

MikeWz thank for the comeback. I am new at this oval racing. I built a MBX-5 in to a monster truck with a RB-2 and it has all top and. As soon as i get up to speed i have to get off it for the turn. and every body beate me comeing out of the turn and going straight up the track before i get up to speed is three quarter of the track when i get up to speed i have to get off for the turn. That's why I thought I needed low end power so when you come out of the turn is when I need all the power..that's what I thought.
Helppppppppppppppppppppppppppp

[MikeWz]

Well if it's a smaller oval, one where high RPMs aren't what count, I'd say go with the Fantom FR-27. It may be hard to find, but you can get one for about $200 and they're VERY worth it. They're super good quality, easy to tune, very reliable and pull hard all around. I'd still say stick with that dual chamber pipe from Fantom too. It's expensive but it's beyond worth it

[Cotharyus]

I'm going to make an update on suspension setups here. About 10 or 12 of us braved the sun yesterday and hit the track for some racing. We had my MGT, two savages, two t-maxxes and an SUT in the MT class. The short version of the story is, I TQ'd, and won the main by two laps. Anyone interested in setup, stick around.

Let me start by saying my stock engine is on it's way out. I've been chasing the tune on it for the past three weekends racing, and spent a good half hour working on it when I got to the track. That said, my engine ran about 287 most of the day, bear in mind it was about 90 outside, with good southern humidity. So now on to setup..

I've finally found the "right" gearing for my track and this engine. It's a 49/16. This is with standard bow ties on velocity rims. Camber, castor, toe in, all that is stock. The trick part is my shocks. Pay attention, as this is subject to change, just to see if I really had something good, or if there's something better, but I've got this one written down for future reference. All 8 shocks, mounted in stock locations. Four shocks (one on each corner) completely stock, blue springs, 40 wt oil. The other four (obviously with one on each corner) were running copper springs with 50 weight oil. There was one medium large preload clip on the copper springs, ride height was just higher than arms level. Inside of one shock on each corner, limiters, just longer than the threads on the shock shaft.

I don't think there's anything else. If anyone else gets around to trying this, let me know how it works for you.

[MikeWz]

Coth-I may try it, just wondering what the layout of your track is like. Sounds like (with your gearing in mind) that it may be more of an open track.

[Skandranon]

How many gallons did you get out of your stock engine?

[Cotharyus]

Mike - My track is actually a "tight" track - that's by buggy standards - most buggy guys drop a tooth or two on thier cb at this tra