Team Losi XXXNT forum v9.0

[dgrobe2112]

depends on the track.. and stuff.. go to www.teamlosi.com and look at their tire chart.. and tells you what works with what..

[dkj-M3]

what suface are you running on?

[ross]

Losiguy,
If your talking about foam tyres as you mentioned earlier for that slick onroad track www.thercshack.com have a wide selection of foam truck tyres.

[doesgo]

"anyone have suggestions on wut tires i should get?"

For what purpose and what surface? Jumping? Racing? On-road? Off-
road? Pavement? Rocks? Sand? Dirt? Blue groove? Mud? Carpet?

[losiguy1090]

its pavement thats getting sealer so its gonna be slicker than normal. so thats why i was looking at foam tires.

thx for the link ross, do u think if i ordered some tires today theyd be in by friday?

[ross]

Not sure, you'd have to contact them and sort out shipping options. My stuff always arrives pretty quickly from them and Im in the UK.

[Maltrio]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5908750609&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT I was going to bid on it, but I realized that I really don't need another xxx-nt. That is a great price for a nice truck though . . .

[Karlos Fandango]

Yeah, Ebay is a bad, bad thing................... Must resist looking:D

[Maltrio]

I second that, everytime I go on I end up buying something and it's usually something I really don't need. When you find a good deal its so hard to resist bidding!!!

[Karlos Fandango]

It doesn't help when the wife says(after buying a hopped up XXXNT rolling chassis) "why don't you look on ebay to see if there are any engines on there, If you find one you can put it in the spare kit and have two to use then"

[dgrobe2112]

well.. sounds like you got a keeper.. haha.. my wife went as far as listening to me and my buddy's talkin at the house.. and me saying.. dude.. i need one of those.. motors.. then she asked him on the side.. which one i wanted.. and got it for me.. :)

[Maltrio]

Wow, you 2 should count your blessings.

[dgrobe2112]

:) i do.. she is good.. i still cant get her to go to the big races with me and pit.. hahah

[stickboy90]

Late reply...password issues. I was racing at the local track and a fellow r/c
er stated that the rtr gear box is flimsy and allows the gears and their shafts to flex with in the gear case causing meshing problems. He said that once he replaced the transmission case halves the stripping of the gears stopped. Just a tip to others out there, The rtr parts are flexier that the standard non-graphite parts.

[Saboteur]

Weird. I never experienced that problem before.

[dkj-M3]

thr RTR plastic is softer than the regular stuff. I have a rtr bumper & it is way flimsy.

[Saboteur]

Hmm. I did notice the arms I bought for my NT were a bit stiffer as well as different coloring compared. Still using the RPM bumper at the moment and yes, the rtr bumper does flex a bit. Anyone running the diff setup with multiple washers on their NT compared to the spring/washer,nut like on the the Sport NT? I heard the sport setup was better but how is that so? Easier tension adjustment?

[dkj-M3]

Easier tension adjustment, thats it. the washers may last a little longer tho.

[stickboy90]

Are most of these message board users racing their xxx-nt or back yard useage?

[Saboteur]

Only got to race mine in a dirt oval. Wasn't that much fun for me. I heard RC Madness is having a 3 day event in August. Need to find a place to stay over there as well as save up for the trip if I can go.

[ross]

I only race, dont use my XXXNT for bashing.

[Got Speed]

stickboy90- I am not sure about this but I don't think the tranny case is made in different materials. I think it is only made in the kit plastic. I have heard of that problem before in other vehicle such as the T-Maxx's diffs when a more powerful engine was added but I have never heard of or seen that in the NT. How it is designed I seriously doubt that there could be enough flex to cause any problems whatsoever.

I only race or practice with my NT at the track.

Saboteur- Like dkj-m3 said the spring is easier to adjust. It has broader settings so it is much easier for somebody that has problems adjusting their diff.

[dkj-M3]

I just race. I have the '03 & just won the '04 Ohio State Champs title. I'm headed to the 2nd round of the North didvision pro-series next weekend at the tiltyard, can't wait should be a good time.

http://www.tiltyard.com/

[dkj-M3]

Forgot to mention I race with Jesse Robbers, his pic is on Losi's site he just won the 2wd 2004 ROAR Modified Nationals & he helps me out a lot.

[Karlos Fandango]

Only bash at the moment but I'm waiting for my local track to finally finish its off road track (about three years and counting)

A quick note to everyone, make sure you have your failsafe's correctly wired in. You wouldn't want to discover that after three years of fitting, it was incorrectly wired. A friend told me..................Honestly <hides face>

[Animeboy123]

Ya, i check my failsafe's wireing everytime i clean my XXXNT.

I've been having some problems lately with my Tunning. When ever i start my Mach.15 it stalls after about 5 sec., when i go to restart it it is hard to restart. It takes about 10-15 pulls to get it fired up then i have to hold my trucks wheeles off the ground and throttle it to get the fuel going through the engine. I think this is a problem with my LHS needle setting.

any help on how to stop this would be great, thanks ^^x

[dgrobe2112]

LHS needle..?? sounds like a special low/high speed needle.. actually i would venture to say that you are too lean on the bottom alot of people will run a lean bottom for good punch and fat top end on a gas truck.. since top speed in racing a gas truck is rarely made.. start by fattening (counterclock wise) on the low end needle.. that is the needle that is hardest to get too.. then once you get it to start and run and idle.. do a pinch test on it.. also.. make sure to replace the glow plug.. could have fouled it running the low end lean..

[Shady]

stickboy-check to see if the top shaft is bent or if the gear box is "wore out" where the bearing is for the top shaft, my brothers nt started stripping gears like crazy, couldn't figure out why and the case was wore out and the bearing was able to move around just slightly causing all the problems

[Shady]

and i just race my nt, only time it gets ran that it isn't on a track is in the yard to break in a motor when i can't get to a track

[stickboy90]

dkj-m3- congrats on the race season. I use mine for racing. I have an hpi rs4 nitro mt for backyard running. I like racing the losi over the hpi. 2wd and a lighter car help. Regarding the flimsy gear case, I figure that I blew my first gear (the compound/brake gear) because of the slipper being WAY too tight and hard landings with the gas on. Beginners whoas...I replaced the spur & compound gear (kevlar version) and haven't had any problems. Are most of you running the Mach .15 engine? It's tunability seems easy once broken in... There are 2 local tracks, one in door and outdoor. Both are fun.

[Saboteur]

Animeboy123-Watch your tuning on the Mach. It has a metal carb so when it gets very hot, the air pushes the fuel away from the carb. At times I had to give mine a rest before I ran on grass/loose dirt (which does a number on the engine actually..especially the soft plush grass), or just richen the LSN.

[dkj-M3]

thx :D

[Maltrio]

I love running my xxx-nt on grass!! It's so sweet to see the truck just kinda' floating in the nice soft grass. It's wicked easy to pull wheelies too.

[Saboteur]

Just picked up a pair of ball cups and linkage for the steering servo. Time to get the Sport running again and test my modified M16. :)

[Karlos Fandango]

How do you chaps route the battery wire? It always seems like the wire can get lunched in the spur gear or interfear with the throttle or brake controls. I try to keep it as neat as possible and secure it where possible, just seems a bit like an accident waiting to happen.

[dkj-M3]

i wrap it in thick fuel tubing & route them over top of the brake linkage & spur & through the left side of the inner rear shock tower. Been running it like that for 3yrs with no problems or binding.

[ross]

Im running my battery pack on the front so not only does it balance the truck about better but also get round the problem of having to route the wire around the spur gear/flywheel/linkages and cylinder head.

[cabbynate]

Im running my battery pack on the front so not only does it balance the truck about better but also get round the problem of having to route the wire around the spur gear/flywheel/linkages and cylinder head.
Really? Like on the bulk head?

[ross]

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ross2000/DVC00005.JPG

[cabbynate]

Hmmm......Interesting.

[Saboteur]

I have the wiring stock on the Sport NT. Simply use zipties and that will run the wire along the rear brace. Also for my RX pack, I wound it once around the rear shock tower since the cord is a little long for it. Never got caught in anything.

[MBX4RR]

On my NXT I put my battery box in the front like ross.never had any problems. But on my xxx-nt i put it in the back and i havent ad any problems except for one time the wire got to close to the linkage and my car started to glitch up. I have a ziptie around the rear shock tower too with the sports wiring setup.

[Karlos Fandango]

Can anyone tell me what make this starter box is?? I've waited for ages to get the parts to get my truck up and running. I go to start it up and the starter box has an eppy and eats one of the belts and kills a gear :mad:

Clicky (http://groups.msn.com/UpSaddle/crispyminstralsphotos.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=21182)

[stickboy90]

you can zip tye the wire to the brace that comes off of the gear box to the chassis plate.

[txt-30]

Losi, XXX-NT SPORT RTR with .15 Mach engine + XR2 AM radio system Question????

Will this truck wheelie in the RTR form?

[txt-30]

Wil this truck wheelie in the RTR form? How good is the .15 Mach engine for backyard play?

[Got Speed]

I wrap my wire from my switch around the brake linkage and wrap then battery wires around the shock tower and zip tie. I plug them together above the tranny case and use a tie wrap to keep the connecters together. I've never had a problem like that.

txt-30- Possibly. If you have a good clutch set up and enough traction. The mach .15 works fine but it isn't a powerhouse so it will work fine for bashing. Most race engines won't even wheelie because it isn't often you get enough traction on a surface to make it wheelie.

[txt-30]

Well I run on low cut grass so traction should not be a problem. My 2.5 rustler will wheelie on the grass. I just want a better truck and was wondering if it will. Does anyone have the RTR verision?

[Got Speed]

Well the engine isn't really powerful but it might wheelie. The truck is a much better race truck. If you are just bashing I see no need to get anything other than the rustler.

[OutKast]

I have a quick question. After pulling out the Nt from last season(Been to busy with school) i started it up, and can not find out why it keeps stalling. When ever i put on the brakes it stalls. I tried adjusting my throtle trim, but it is set correctly.

What can cause this? And also does anyone know the stock carb settings for the Mach.15?

Thanks,
Kyle.

[dgrobe2112]

well.. when sitting for a while.. especially.. if you have let it set for months.. did you run afterrun oil in it? if not.. you got bad gas in the motor.. also.. make sure you are running new fuel.. you will also need to replace the glow plug..

[OutKast]

I can run it like normal, fast as ever. New gas, new plug everything, but when i adjusted the hsn, and the lsn and idle speed i cant get it to stop from stalling when i apply the brakes.

Could it be the linkages that are incorrectly adjusted?

Kyle.

[dgrobe2112]

well.. your trims wont help you.. you can turn the trim up on the car all you want.. but if your idle is set too low.. when you hit the brakes.. it will kill the motor.. i think you should turn the idle up before you adjust the needles.. get it so it idles good.. do some good high speed passes, to get the high end needle set.. then after you get that.. you can adjust your low end needle.. for punch.. you will also need to adjust the idle while adjusting the low end needle.. when you lean the low end.. the idle will go up.. so as you lean the low end needle.. you will need to lower the idle..

[cabbynate]

I have a quick question. After pulling out the Nt from last season(Been to busy with school) i started it up, and can not find out why it keeps stalling. When ever i put on the brakes it stalls. I tried adjusting my throtle trim, but it is set correctly.

What can cause this? And also does anyone know the stock carb settings for the Mach.15?

Thanks,
Kyle.
Sounds to me like clutch bell bearings or the idle setting.

[OutKast]

I dont think it is the bearings...More likely the idle speed. Anyone know the stock setting for all 3? Or a good idle setting to start with, and does anyone have a procedure for tuning a out of tune engine they would like to share. I have really only leaned/richen the hsn and a little on the lsn before. So im not to accustomed on what to look for.

Thanks again,

Kyle.

[dgrobe2112]

OK, in a nutshell, what i would do is leave your settings where they are now.. turn your high end needle counterclockwise, 1/2 to 1 turn. Do the same to the bottom end needle..

Next, pull off the air filter.. turn on your radio.. and turn on the on off switch to the truck.. dont start the truck.. now.. hit full brake on the radio.. by pushing forward on the throttle.. you should see around a 3mm opening. just make sure its open enough.. if you think its not open enough.. just open it more.. put on the air filter...

Next.. start the truck.. it will be fat.. im sure.. with the truck on the box.. or the rear wheels off the ground.. try to get the car to run full throttle.. if it is real gargly... spittin fuel and all that.. go ahead and lean the top needle, by 1 hour.. which is 1/12 of a turn.. clockwise.. keep doing that until the motor seems like it is pretty fast.. run it down the street... for a good high speed setting.. once you get that set..

from a dead stop.. hit the gas.. if the truck responds quickly.. make sure your not too lean on the bottom.. most likely not.. but if you are... you will want to turn the low needle by 1/8 of a turn counter clockwise..

from a dead stop.. hit the gas.. if the truck is real boggy.. and sputtering.. then you will want to lean the low end needle.. by 1/8 of a turn clockwise.. and repeat this until the truck is responsive..

Make sure you see a good plume of blue smoke all the way through the powerband.. from bottom all the way through full throttle..

check your low end by using some needle nose pliers.. and pinch the fuel line that goes into the carb. you want to pinch it around 1 inch from where it connects to the carb. If it idles more than 3 seconds with no change in the tone of the motor, you should prolly lean the low end needle, clockwise, if it idles up and dies really fast.. then you are too lean... so fatten up the low end needle.. by turning counterclockwise on the low end needle.. once you get the low end set.. you shouldnt have to mess with it again..

if you want.. you can email me.. and i will give you my phone number.. and you can call me and i will help over the phone..

dgrobe2112@netzero.com

[TomC]

Does anyone here have experience with the Native Racing top deck conversion. Someone else offers one also but I have forgotten who?

[dgrobe2112]

Tom is that the peice for making it easier to remove the front servo?? i think RCtricks has one.. not sure though

[TomC]

I think thats it Daniel. Thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

Sorry tom.. but rctrix dont have it on their website.. i looked and cant find anymore like it.. i seen one one time made out of carbon fiber.. it wasnt by Native Racing either

[TomC]

Yeah, it aint there. I know what you mean. There was another one out of CF and it wasnt NR. I wish Jim meyer would jump in here, I think hes from FL where NR is.

[TomC]

Daniel, Titan Tech has a new rear shock tower you need to see. Very trick, part anodized alum and part hard ano alum. Looks very sturdy.

[dgrobe2112]

what is their website?

[Shady]

Native Racings top plate is awesome, you can't go wrong with anything Jim puts out with Native Racing

[LoSick]

hey ross, how you doing with the sirio, got thr 5 port evo for my mugen mtx3, it's a blast just like my losi.
got drake pipe, anyone has tried the rd logics for rear exhaust such as xxxnt or mst? heard their performance higher thank drake specially bottom.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, the drake pipe kills a motor period.. if you put a drake pipe on a motor.. you will drastically kill that motor.. takes bottom end away from it..

[OutKast]

OK, in a nutshell, what i would do is leave your settings where they are now.. turn your high end needle counterclockwise, 1/2 to 1 turn. Do the same to the bottom end needle..

Next, pull off the air filter.. turn on your radio.. and turn on the on off switch to the truck.. dont start the truck.. now.. hit full brake on the radio.. by pushing forward on the throttle.. you should see around a 3mm opening. just make sure its open enough.. if you think its not open enough.. just open it more.. put on the air filter...

Next.. start the truck.. it will be fat.. im sure.. with the truck on the box.. or the rear wheels off the ground.. try to get the car to run full throttle.. if it is real gargly... spittin fuel and all that.. go ahead and lean the top needle, by 1 hour.. which is 1/12 of a turn.. clockwise.. keep doing that until the motor seems like it is pretty fast.. run it down the street... for a good high speed setting.. once you get that set..

from a dead stop.. hit the gas.. if the truck responds quickly.. make sure your not too lean on the bottom.. most likely not.. but if you are... you will want to turn the low needle by 1/8 of a turn counter clockwise..

from a dead stop.. hit the gas.. if the truck is real boggy.. and sputtering.. then you will want to lean the low end needle.. by 1/8 of a turn clockwise.. and repeat this until the truck is responsive..

Make sure you see a good plume of blue smoke all the way through the powerband.. from bottom all the way through full throttle..

check your low end by using some needle nose pliers.. and pinch the fuel line that goes into the carb. you want to pinch it around 1 inch from where it connects to the carb. If it idles more than 3 seconds with no change in the tone of the motor, you should prolly lean the low end needle, clockwise, if it idles up and dies really fast.. then you are too lean... so fatten up the low end needle.. by turning counterclockwise on the low end needle.. once you get the low end set.. you shouldnt have to mess with it again..

if you want.. you can email me.. and i will give you my phone number.. and you can call me and i will help over the phone..

dgrobe2112@netzero.com

Thanks alot, a big help. I work all wekk but ill try it out on teh weekend and let you know.

Thanks again,
Kyle.

[evader32]

dgrobe2112 what do you you mean by the adam drake pipe kills the motor?

[dkj-M3]

it doesn't take away bottom end, it just smooths out the power band for off-road which is a good thing on slick tracks, I think the drakes pipe is a good all around pipe. If i need more bottom end I can tune other aspects of the pipe, clutch or engine for it.

[evader32]

how long does your engine last with that pipe? does it increase overall speed than the stock pipe? i'm running a .15 o.s. cvr-x on my sport.

[dkj-M3]

a pipe doesn't determine how long your engine last's. never ran the stock pipe, so i couldn't tell you. that is a fast engine you are running. the drake pipe has more top end than bottom.

[TomC]

Daniel, go to ebay, Toys and Hobbies, Radio Control, Trucks, Engines/Parts/Accessories and go to RC Racer Parts store.

[dgrobe2112]

WEll, what i meant.. is that is smoothed out my CVR.. compared to an AE pipe.. made the motor more drivable.. for me.. seemed to really take away the bottom end of the motor..

[dkj-M3]

ya, I know, i was just explaining it to evader32.

[dgrobe2112]

oh.. ok..

[TomC]

Just my luck, ordered the NR top plate - and they are on vac till next week. Oh well...lol

[dgrobe2112]

That sux Tom.. haha.. oh well.. so you ready to claim your trophy and fuel this week.. what fuel do you run Tom?? are you running rocket science?? or what? just curious.. i heard some people say that RS changed their formula.. and isnt that good or something.. but i dont know.. i ran a couple gals of odonnel.. what do you think?

[TomC]

I would like to finish up the oval series this week and go thru my truck completely, take it back to offroad specs. Thats why I wanted the NR parts, so I could do a go thru - it needs it after this series. Havent had the time lately for real good maintenance. I run Rocket Science, 30 in the oval motor. Add some castor, for those oops heats like last week - 334. RS been berry berry good to me.

[dgrobe2112]

Hmm.. i dont knw what i want to do.. dwayne said he dont make any money on the odonnel fuel.. he makes more on the RS fuel.. i want to support the LHS... and i think i might go back to RS.. on my WS7II.. brand new.. should i do 30 or stay with 20..

[dkj-M3]

most run 30% for .21's

[TomC]

If it were me, I would go with 30 RS. I think we are getting fresher fuel with the RS. Regardeless, I have been adding a bit of high quality castor to whatever I buy. It seems some of the fuel manufacturers lately have been in a Lowest Oil Content War. This is well and good if you dont pay for your own motors. Me, I gotta make mine live long and prosper.

[dgrobe2112]

how do you go about adding castor to the motor? maybe you could show me?

[TomC]

Sure, is there gonna be racing tonite what with the 5" rain yesterday? I'll come by if there is, and I'll be racing tomorrow nite if were on. But it is simple, I add 4 oz of Morgan or Klotz castor to a fresh gallon and mix it good by tumbling the container by hand. Just a little bit of insurance. 334 on a Traxxas 2.5 isnt good, mine survived unscathed.

[zoolander]

I have a XXX-NT Sport RTR with only about 5 tanks through it and it started making a screeching noise as soon as I hit the throttle. It just screeches and moves somewhat, but something is not engaging as the engine revs out but the truck only moves slowly. The more throttle, the more screeching. I tried tightening the slipper down but it didn't help. What could have gone wrong so quickly?

thanks

[dkj-M3]

sounds like the diff. hold your spur gear & spin one rear wheel, the other wheel should spin the opposite way, with a little tension/drag.

[zoolander]

dkj-M3,

I did what you said and it seemed ok, the wheels spun opposite ways with some tension. Could the diff still be shot?

[dkj-M3]

hmmm, could be the clutch bearings, the slipper or the clutch nut could have come loose. check the clutch nut 1st, then the bearings. if not that, take the slipper apart & inspect it.

[zoolander]

Thanks for the help so far.

The clutch nut was very tight and the bearings seemed to be in good condition. I looked over the slipper and everything looked OK.

Seems like an odd problem...Does the fact that my wheels spin opposite ways while holding the spur rule out the possibility of a stripped diff gear?

[dkj-M3]

if it spins freely the diff is either toast or it needs to be tightened. I'm stumped. the only thing I could think of is, there is something wrong in the engine or the tranny. The flywheel collet may be slipping.

If it was me I would take the engine off & check it, if nothing is wrong with the engine, I would move to the tranny & tear it down to check it.

Anybody else have any ideas.

ohh duuu(hits head) it's probably a stripped gear.

[zoolander]

Well, I tore apart the tranny and it's kind of hard to tell but it looks like the monster diff gear is stripped. In the pic, if you look towards the left, you can see some stripped/flattened teeth. Hopefully replacing this gear will do the trick.


http://img33.exs.cx/img33/7623/diffgear.jpg

[dkj-M3]

check the brake shaft gear also. make sure you replace it with the white monster diff gear, it's stronger. & always make sure the slipper slips or it will eat diff gears.

[zoolander]

OK, will do! I think the slipper being too tight is what may have caused this.

thanks!

[dkj-M3]

Pro-Series race 3, Adam Drake will be there

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sept 3-5, 2004
Dirt Country will be hosting round 3 of the North Division Pro-Series races.
http://www.rcproseries.com/divisions/north/

Dirt Country is located just east of Cincinnati, OH
www.dcrcr.com

[CityFarmer4020]

First I want to thank tr918 for pointing me to the losi forum!

I have an xxxnt with the EVO2 5port motor 51t spur and 20t clutch bell.
I am pretty good with a t-maxx but am a NEWBE when it comes to the XXXNT
anyway, I keep blowing my comp gear and was looking for a solution.

tr918 told me to try the following:
1. Check slipper........I dont know how many turns out from tight though??
2. Adjust the diff.......Tighten it good and then run one tank then tighten it again?? Is that right?
3. Is top shaft bent? I have ordered a new one.

Something that may help is, I can here alot of whining coming from somewhere?? Does that mean any thing?

Thanks for any and all help!
City Farmer :D

[ross]

City Farmer,
I would first look at the slipper clutch, tighten it all the way in and then loosen it 5 turns out. This is a good starting point from which you can adjust it slightly depending how you like it. The tightness (is that a word?) of the diff shouldnt really affect your problems with the compound idle gear but its worth checking that its tight anyway. To check your diff is tight, tighten the slipper all the way in, then hold the left wheel and spur gear tight and try to turn the right wheel. The right wheel should hardly move and if it does it should require quite a bit of strength, if it turns easily it needs tightening. Then loosen the slipper back out 5 turns as above and repeat what you just did holding the left wheel and spur gear together whilst trying to turn the right wheel. Now it should be easier to turn the right wheel because the slipper clutch is slipping before the diff. You should see the slipper plates turning, its very important that the slipper slips before the diff otherwise it wont be long before you take a diff gear out too!

Like you say theres a possibility the top shaft is bent or maybe the gear on the end of the topshaft (sorry forgot what its called) is damaged. Also be sure that the gearbox is free from dirt and grit. I cant be sure if that whining is normal without hearing it but when spinning the wheels they should spin freely and smoothly.

I'd certainly like to see a XXXNT with a EVO 2 5 port go, Im running the 3 port version of the same engine and its really quite quick :D

[Got Speed]

I think it is about time I show a picture of my NT. lol What do you think?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47191&stc=1

[dgrobe2112]

Looks nice.. i sure miss the beach.. used to live on the coast.. now i live in central texas.. gotta drive 6 hours to go to the beach.. :(

[Got Speed]

thanks. I wish I lived near there too. That is about 6 hours from me. That it is a SoCal beach(don't remember which one) and I live in Phoenix AZ. lol I just go out there a couple times a year.

[Racin Rev]

where are y'all mounting your personal transponders? I have been mounting it over the servo but the signal is weak. there aren't a lot of places available and none that don't go through alum.

[dkj-M3]

nice Got Speed.

I mount mine over the servo.

[Got Speed]

Racin Rev- I also mount mine over the steering servo.

dkj-M3- Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

Racin REv, you could mount it to the side of the radio box.. also.. if you got some spare lexan.. which you should have when you trim the body.. cut a nice big square peice.. and you can screw the lexan down with the radio box and leave enough hanging over to screw the personal down to the lexan.. know what im sayin? not a whole lot of room over the chassis area.. but you could mount it behind the servo.. yeah.. shoots through the chassis.. but that should be no problem.. i seen them work there..

[vegasxxxnt]

Hey, I just found this forum.... and it looks really great. And as for the mounting the transponder.... I mount mine on the front side of the radio box.....

[dkj-M3]

I've seen guys mount them on the front bulkhead in front of the tower.

[dgrobe2112]

hey vegas.. welcome.. glad you found our little corner of the world.. wide web.. haha.. post away man

[vegasxxxnt]

Hey Thanks......

[vegasxxxnt]

Does anyone have a good set-up for a MBX style track.....they track i run on is being changed to a MBX style track this next race series......just wondering the Adam Drake set-up is the best or is there any changes I need to mkae for this style of track.



Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

when you say MBX style track.. you mean BMX?? that also mean.. bigger jumps.. and all that.. the best i can tell you.. make sure you truck jumps level.. and lands correctly.. cuz i see alot of broken parts.. as far as setup.. start with the drake and go from there..

[russellr2k4]

I just got a Losi XXXNT (RTR) with a Mach .15 engine and it’s running cold (about 155 degrees). Is it bad for the engine to run too cold?

Broke in the engine last week with engine temperatures around 200 degrees. I’m now running the truck on small track without any real straight away with an outside temperature of 60 degrees. I also use Traxxas TopFuel 20%. The HSN is about 2 1/8 turns out and I haven’t change LSN.

I guess I could lean out the HSN some more but find that the engine already is putting out enough power for the track. I’m use to running a T-Maxx with a TRX 2.5 where overheating is a problem so I’ve also run on the rich side.

Thanks in advance

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. running the engine at 155, is too cold.. and running an engine too fat. is just as bad as running the engine too lean.. so.. you need to get that motor up to around 200. You are putting more wear on the motor running fat.. the motor is having to work harder to compress all that extra fuel..

[ross]

russellr2k4,
If you find that once youve leaned the engine out to get it up to temperature its to much power for the track, try using a carb restrictor.

[dgrobe2112]

carb restictor.. or change the endpoints on the radio.. and dont use full throttle..

[dkj-M3]

or richen the low end.

[Got Speed]

russellr2k4- 155 is too cold as everyone else has said. During the summer I assume where you live isn't real cold. If not then you should lean it out some. Tune it untill it performs its best then richen it a little bit. If the temps are still low then wrap some alum. foil or alum. tape around a few of the cooling fins.

[dgrobe2112]

if he richens the low end.. then he is back where he started.. with a motor running too cool..

[russellr2k4]

Appreciate everyone input. I’ll maintain the engine temperature closer to 200 degrees.

[dkj-M3]

if he leans the top, to get near the desired temp. He can then richen the bottom end to take some of the grunt away without it getting to cold.

[ross]

Plus by richening the low end needle it wont have a very strong idle due to fuel build up.

[russellr2k4]

What I did this morning was lean out the top without touching the bottom end and controlled the power by adjusting my radio. tx again...

[Got Speed]

Does it idle well without loading up? If so, it sounds like you have it tuned well. If it loads up at idle though you can lean the low end a little bit too.

[dgrobe2112]

well.. in all actuality.. these motors are not designed to idle a whole tank.. so if a motor is tuned correctly.. it will want to load up and die.. if you dont blip the throttle..

[russellr2k4]

It seem to idle better after leaning it out.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. it will idle better with a leaner bottom end..

[russellr2k4]

I’m starting to think that I broke in and ran my mach .15 too rich. I had always though that it was safer to run rich but after the above advice of being too rich and also reading a bunch of threads about break-in procedure I realize that running rich could be bad.

Although the engine seems to run well, is there an easy way to check the compression on the engine? When I take out the glow plug, I could easily turn the engine. There doesn’t seem to be much of a pinch on the piston/sleeve. But when the glow plug is in, there seems to be alot of compressions. Is this normal?

[Got Speed]

russellr2k4- Either way you can do damage but generally richer is better than leaner unless it is way too rich. Running too cold(not rich but cold) will cause the piston and sleeve to wear faster because they have not expanded properly but as long as the engine has compression then you should be good. Most engines have pinch for about a gallon of fuel including break in. Pinch is the tightness at the top of the stroke with the plug out. Some wear faster than others though. If you still have good compression(with the plug in) then you probably didn't do too much damage. Even if you did damage it you won't notice it right away. It just won't last as long as it normally would. So, I wouldn't beat myself up over. Just make sure you keep it tuned well in the future. Just remeber though that you should tune for performance then back off a little. If it is too cold wrap something around a few cooling fins to artificially get the temp up.

[Maltrio]

I have always wondered this so I guess I will ask. My Mach runs fine, starts on the 2nd pull and runs like a champ. The only thing is, if it runs out of fuel or stalls, it is a real pain to get started again and I have to wait until it cools down to under 100. ANy ideas on why my motor is picky when starting hot?

[dkj-M3]

too lean on the bottom, may want to richen the top also.

[ross]

Its because the carb is getting so hot when the fuel enters its evaporating, if your engine is running within temps then theres not alot you can do Im afraid. Apart from use a starter box which usually better for starting hot engines. Its one of the reasons why alot of engines such as Sirio come with composite carbs now.

[Got Speed]

It could also be that your engine is getting worn out. Engines with low compression won't start untill they cool down.

[cabbynate]

Its because the carb is getting so hot when the fuel enters its evaporating, if your engine is running within temps then theres not alot you can do Im afraid. Apart from use a starter box which usually better for starting hot engines. Its one of the reasons why alot of engines such as Sirio come with composite carbs now.
This has been the case with my cv.12.
However, it has not happened many times.

[dgrobe2112]

also.. when you run out of gas.. it takes some time to get the fuel back to the carb.. so it will take some time.. also when it leans out and dies.. or loads up and dies.. that also will make it hard to start.. like.. when you turn off the truck.. do you plug the pipe to turn it off.. if so. basicaly what your doing.. is flooding the motor.. bad on plugs.. what i do... is reach under the truck.. and just touch the flywheel.. stops immediatly.. and starts on the first bump everytime..

but like mentioned before.. if the motor is wore out.. it wont start till compression gets back up..

[dkj-M3]

dgrobe is right, but If you use your finger to shut it off by the flywheel, MAKE SURE ITS AT IDLE, or you'll loose some skin. that's how I cut mine off, use the heel of your shoe or the end of a driver or something.

[vegasxxxnt]

Just wondering..... I read on another forum... and i dont know if its a rumor or not..... but i heard that a new xxxnt will be coming out around christmas time.....anyone else hear of this?

[dkj-M3]

probably just an upgrade, the new MF2 front arms & hubs & newer rear arms. & they already made the rear shock tower stronger, I hope they made the battery box stronger.

[ross]

Ive heard some rumours about upgraded rear suspension for the current truck but nothing more than that, its very possible that its the same thing dkj-M3 mentioned above.

Look forward to seeing what they have lined up for us, that is of course if there is anything!

[Shady]

the only thing the "new" truck will be is an upgrade, prolly the AD2 to ollow the BK2 and the MF2

[Got Speed]

dkj-M3- Do you have problems with the batt box? If so, try making that brace cave thought of. It works great.

[dgrobe2112]

ross.. i heard they were gonna update the suspension like the MF2, and BK2, but thats it.. i allready put the MF2 front end on my truck. Also, there is some updated parts like rear shock tower that they got.. and stuff like that.. maybe the new tank..

[ross]

Thanks DG, Did you notice but difference with the MF2 front end on over the standard Drake front end?

Going on what you have said I cant see the updates making much difference, although Ill probably end up upgrading it anyway :D Not sure why they would update the tank either, the current one with the pressure nipple on the lid is fine.

[dgrobe2112]

the new front end.. is tougher.. arms are more beefier.. and stuff.. but thats mainly it.. thats the main reason i did the change.. the new gas tank is supposed to be one that you can screw in a peice inside the tank to take away some fuel capacity.. the drake fuel tank is too big.. for roar rules.. so people are having to put stuff in the gas tank to meet fuel specs.. so.. they got a new tank which you can screw in a baffle or something into the tank.. and make it legal..

I did not really notice a difference.. other than it dont break like the other front end.. hahah.. i need to get some spare MF2 front arms..

[dkj-M3]

not too many problems with the box, but every now & then I have one of those nose up hard landings that ends up cracking it, then it gets worser from there. I saw that post earlier. I'll have to look for it & try it out.

[dgrobe2112]

Dace mfg has a brace for the rear box.. www.dacemfg.com and it works great.. i personally have an aluminum box, that is just a hair heavier than the stock box..

[ross]

DG,
To use the MF2 Front arms, do you need to use the MF2 Hubs or will the standard hubs work fine with them?

[dgrobe2112]

uhh.. well.. i dont know. i havent looked.. but i think they will work.. not sure though.. the new front arms have 2 holes for attaching the front hubs.. and the new MF2 hubs.. ahve 2 holes also.. so.. i dont know which hole is the same as the stock.. baically changes the pivot point of the front hub.. i think they will work.. but i put the complete new one on .. i will check into it this week.. and let you knw

[dgrobe2112]

they said you can use the old spindles.. but can only use the outer hole on the arm.. not have the option to use the inner hole..

[losifreak2004]

Grobe - Now I know where all your information goes! hahaha

Running the new caster blocks in addition to the new arms will give you a very simple and effective tuning option on faster tracks.

[vegasxxxnt]

quick question..... what size are the balls on the thrust bearing?

[ross]

Thanks for that DG.

Vegas,
5/64"

[dgrobe2112]

there is (8) 5/64 thrust bearings in the kit stock..

[dgrobe2112]

Losifreak.. what you talkin bout?? bwahahah.. i surf alot of sites.. and try to help everyone.. not everyone likes Sgrid.. cuz its hard to follow..

[dkj-M3]

c'uz on da grid :)

[rccarman5]

ok guys i'm looking for a new r/c car engien because i think my old xtm 15 is starting to give out, i only paid 25 for it so it's not worth to put in another 40 for a new piston and sleeve even though i want to becasue it was a great engine. i was thinking about he new fanton 12 engines? are they any good? what engines would be good for a backyard basher? i'm not looking to spend some crazy money so dont mention trinity/pico engines.

has anyone ever tried the fantom? how many gals do they usually last for. thanks.

-danny

[dkj-M3]

get your sleeve squeezed for $20 bucks or cheaper. search for osrocket on ebay.

[dgrobe2112]

ive seen the fantom engines.. and they are pretty fast.. i personally like OS engines.. i run a CVR .12 in my truck.. lots of power.. plenty fast..

I didnt have luck with the squeeze.. but it may have just been me.. ive heard alot of people get their piston and sleeve squeezed.. and have great luck..

[rccarman5]

resizing? this si new to me, i've been in this hobby for about 4-5 years now and i've never heard of it, waht do they exactly do.

i was thinking about os engines but how long do they last. i htink i went through 2 gallons on my sport engine and it seems to lose it's tune, it just might be my tuning. but i want to look into a new engine.

[rccarman5]

i also noticed that between the fanton .12 pulls about 6 more thousand rpms than the os .12 CV and the .12 CVR why is that? also which is better of the two os's the .12CV or the .12CVR? i like the CV becasue it looks cooler but that has nothign to do with it. thanks guys.

-danny

[dgrobe2112]

rccarman.. the .12CV with the red head on it.. is a good mtor.. but the head is junk.. alot of people change to an Odonnel head.. the red head dont cool very well at all.. The .12CVR is the better motor.. its faster, has more power.. but actually the .12CV is easier to drive on offroad, easier on throttle, and all that..

Resizing, or squeezing, basically.. when you get a new motor.. notice how the piston and sleeve are very tight.. the flywheel is hard to turn by hand.. then as you run the motor.. and it gets more use.. like 2 gallons or so.. the flywheel is easier to turn over.. basically its losing its pinch.. the sleeve actually looks like this from the side

/ \ that is an exageration.. then as it gets older it starts to look like this
| | loses the taper.. when you send it in it get resized..(squeezed) they basically take the piston, and sleeve.. and squeeze them.. giving them the / \ taper again..

you cant do this all the time.. sometimes motors get used wrong.. and get dirt in the engine and all that, the dirt cuts grooves in the sleeve, and piston.. which squeezing or resizing wont do anything for..

[dgrobe2112]

oh.. by the way.. more RPM's means more power.. not a whole lot.. but basically, can get a little more top end out of a high RPM motor

[rccarman5]

i understand the part about hte taper. i have been into the hobby for some time but i dont exactly understand how they squeeze it. do they heat it up and clamp it down or somethign similar like that? it's pretty cool how they would do that. also i think eithe rthe cvr or the fantom would be the choice of my next enginne. sound good to everyone?

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. they have a tool that will squeeze the sleeve.. not sure what it is.. osrocket has been doing it for a long time.. and has alot of people who go to him.. i wnet to him.. and my RZ came back tight.. very tight.. then it broke a crank.. but i was pretty impressed with it.. however.. it didnt seem to last that long.. maybe the piston and sleeve were messed up.. that was one of my first motors..

I think you cant go wrong with either motor

[Got Speed]

rccarman5- There are various methods. I don't remember what osrocket says he does but according to him it works better and lasts longer than the other ways. From the reports I have heard that is true. I have certainly had good luck with him. Somebody sells something on ebay to do it yourself but it really only pinches one place and literally pinches it by compression. It's an easy way to get an oval sleeve IMO. For only $15 you can't really go wrong with osrocket. Just my .02

[dgrobe2112]

and he has very fast turnaround..

[dkj-M3]

osrocket did one of my novarossi's, I wasn't keeping count but it had a least 6 gallons on it. The conrod gave out before it wore out again. My piston & sleeve was in very good condition tho.

Always replace the conrod when you rebuild an engine or get it squeezed from being wore out. I learned this lesson.

[purplerides]

Any of you guys run the O.S. TR is runs real good , the only prob. i've had with them is it seems the motor bearings get loose and noisey and seem to go south before the piston and sleeve. I do get 6-8 gals. thru them first though , I've had this prob. and 2-3 other guys at the track have also had the same prob. I've had it happen to 2 of them same thing on my third now. The other ones still run but are real noisey rattling sound.

[Saboteur]

That's weird. My other friends who run them never had that problem before.

[losifreak2004]

The CV-R's used to have bearing issues, I'm not sure what they're like nowadays.

[Racin Rev]

They are not all that hard to change though

[MaxxBashers]

What is the biggest size motor to put on a XXX-nt? Will a Fantom .18 or anything that size fit?

[jdm3849]

.18 is the largest you can get to fit in a XXX-nt without modification. Also check out the XTM .18, Epic .18, and O.S. .18

[mids1999]

Can someone help me with a good setup for a drake that will be racing on a slick dirt track.

The tracks surface is dirt (not clay) and has a layer of loose dirt on it that is about 1/4" thick. Track has a few small jumps and one larger one. There is also a rythem section on the track.

I tried the drake kit setup and could not get any traction.
The truck was spinning out when I would try to make a turn and basically uncontrolable when I got on the gas down the straights.

The truck is powered by a trinity picco .12 round side exhaust w/ rotary carb.
Everything else is stock from the adam drake kit.

[MaxxBashers]

.18 is the largest you can get to fit in a XXX-nt without modification. Also check out the XTM .18, Epic .18, and O.S. .18


Thanks for the info!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Eric

[losifreak2004]

mids1999 - It may be something else other than your setup. The Drake setup is what everyone on the team runs at most of the national events (some changes here and there, but basically very close) regardless of how slippery the track is or isn't. First thing to check is your engine. Many racers set their low speed needles a little on the lean side, and then must richen the high speed needle to compensate for it. In high-power engines, this just creates excess wheelspin.

Moving your hubs forward will give you more forward bite. You can use one of the MF2 anti-squat shims (or one of the gold washers from the Trinity shim kit) to give your truck one more degree of anti-squat, which will also give you more straightline traction. Make sure your rear ride-height is at rear arms level, rather than dogbones level, which is where most people set this very critical adjustment. Try one degree of positive camber in the rear for a little extra sidebite.

If all of that fails, give this setup a try. http://www.teamlosi.com/pictures/jpegsetups/xxxNT/xxx-nt_adam_slick03.jpg

[purplerides]

O.S. TR

I know the bearings aren't hard to replace , i've done my share of rebuilding motors. But the ones for the TR are expensive , i'm still getting good longevity out of the motors. By the time you add up both bearings , piston/sleeve and conrod. I just buy a new motor, then i have spare carbs. I was just wondering if any of you guys were having the same prob. Because atleast 3-4 of us have had it happen. The motors are tuned correctly each of us has atleast 10yrs. of experience of tuning.

[franknitty69]

sup guys. this will be my 1st season racing off-road. just got a xxx-nt adam drake. i wanted to know if on-road .12 engines such as the mugen x12, novarossi NS12R S3, Rex RER12 S3, or the top TSR12 s3 work good for off-road vehicles such as the xxx-nt.

also for roar compliance, what is the port limit for 1/10 off-road?

Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

well.. the motors will work in the XXXNT.. gotta have a threaded crank shaft though.. Also.. in offroad.. you dont want all that power.. too hard to control. I personally run the OS .12 CVR in my truck. The fast guys mainly run the OS CV with odonnel head on it.

Drake runs a Novarossi engine in his.. not too sure which one it is exactly.. i had a Novarossi S2 engine in mine.. traded it straight up for a CVR, because i just couldnt put the power down.. couldnt clear any jumps.. always spinnin tires.. Also.. i highly reccommend getting a rotary carb.. easier on throttle response..

[Saboteur]

I think Drake still runs his Novarossi CX12. That or there is a new Drake Sirio side exhaust engine.

[dgrobe2112]

not sure.. but the motors that frank was listing.. i think are too powerful for offroad..

[dkj-M3]

the port limit for most all tracks, is 3 + the exhaust port, which never gets counted. Drake changed to Sirio, cause trinity doesn't carry nova's anymore.

[Saboteur]

Definately too powerful. Those engines are pretty much for sedans anyway. MT12 is the most power I'd use in a Stadium truck.

[losifreak2004]

ROAR rules state 3 ports, plus the exhaust port. I would steer clear of MT12's for gas truck, but the Nova Rossi side exhaust engine (CX12R2N) is really very good. Adam and the rest of the Trinity team are running Sirio engines now; we've been switching between the rear exhaust and new side exhaust engines. Both are very smooth and driveable, and make gobs of power.

The Orion/Picco engines are also worth a look. That is what Trinity ran before the whole Nova Rossi thing, and their motors now are copies of what we ran.

There's no such thing as too much power, but there's definitely the wrong kind of power.

[mids1999]

Thanks for the advice losifreak2004

Here is how I have the needles set.
I have the low end set so that the engine starts loading up after about 10 seconds at idle, maby 1/16 of a turn leaner then the base setting for the trinity picco .12 with old style carb. I then adjusted the high end for max rpm and backed it off 1/4 turn.

I am getting tons of wheelspin though. Do you think I still might be too lean on the bottom end?

On another note
While rebuilding the truck I noticed something that might have been the problem with my setup. I was running the front with toe out.

I changed that to 1.5 - 2 degree toe in and will see how it works on sunday. printed the setup sheet out to take to the track with me and will try out that setup after I see how the toe in fix (and if you advisr richening the low end) works.

[dkj-M3]

check & see what the fastest drivers are using for rear tires & get some, if you don't already have them.

[losifreak2004]

mids - The rear end isn't really adjustable as far as toe-in goes without changing parts. Use the stock pivot block or the Trinity aluminum one (TK5606) and one degree rear hubs (Losi part number A-9807 for plastic and Trinity TK5071 for aluminum).

The truck will have a total of four degrees of toe-in per side. That will help immensely when it comes to finding straight-line traction.

[franknitty69]

thanks guys. i'll have to check out the OS .12 CVR and novarossi cx 12. if i wanted to go sirio, what series should i be looking at? if i wanted to go orion/picco which ones should i be looking at?

thanks

[franknitty69]

also, are the hitec karbonite digital servos any good for the xxx-nt? i wanted to get the high speed (0.08s @ 6v) and the high torque (172oz @ 6v). are those sufficient or overkill? i've read reviews that hitec servos were garbage but they have better specs than airtronics and futaba and cost less. And i like the sweet digital servo programmer.

[dgrobe2112]

well.. if you are lookin for servos.. digital i dont like.. they go bad especially in nitro.. with all the vibrating.. hitec 925mg is fast.. and plenty torque for the NT.. you dont need alot of torque for a NT.. airtronics 357 is a great one.. get 2 of those and you are set.. 106.99 not bad for the airtronics.. and the 925, is like 84.99 or something like that

[losifreak2004]

frank - The blue head rear exhaust Sirio and the new side exhaust engines are the one to get. If you're not going to put an O.S. carb on it, make sure you get the rotary carb. Also, make sure you get a threaded crank! Same goes for the Orion engines.

In the world of electronics, you get what you pay for. I'd rather buy an Airtronics servo than get a Hitec for free. I use a 94357 for steering and a 94737 for throttle.

[dkj-M3]

airtronics 357, nuff said.

[franknitty69]

I'd rather buy an Airtronics servo than get a Hitec for free. I use a 94357 for steering and a 94737 for throttle.

wow. :D that's a strong statement. we'll that's in line w/what i've been hearing. i've never used hitec anything. the only other servos i've used in the past have been jr. i'll have to keep the airtronics in mind.

[vegasxxxnt]

I have always used Futaba servos... and never had any problem with them..... currently I am running S9402 for steering and a S3050 for throttle....im not gonna down any other servos cause I have never used them.... but I prefer Futaba.


my .02

[offroadcrazy01]

Hitec is not a bad servo ,But airtronics is a great servo I had a hitec servo last 6mo and had to send it in ,the service was fast but my airtronics servo I have has never had to be sent any where

[Got Speed]

franknitty69- I know a lot of people don't like hitec servos but I don't see too many problems with standard hitec servos. It seems there digital ones are prone to going out though. I've had 3 or 4 645s and 625s in different vehicles at one time or other and never had any problems with them except one just recently where the motor went out. They fixed it and got it sent back within 2 weeks of the time I mailed it to them. For steering I use all airtronics but hitec servos make great throttle/brake servos for me. I would suggest a 94357 for steering and any metal geared servo with at least a .15 sec speed and 90 oz/in torque.

[franknitty69]

i've decided on airtronics servos. i hate being like everyone else but i need to be competitive w/electronics that work 110%. yeah i've never used hitec but i don't need to be explorative w/my money. now if i got them for free...

anyways do you guys think analog is the way to go over digital? i have a jr r-1 pcm tx w/a pcm rx.

[joshvincent]

i got a problem everytime i run and stop my truck i come back and there is a huge puddle of nitro where its setting if i leave gas in the tank its like the tank has to much pressure and its forceing right out the air nossle on the pipe whats up with that do i need a new tank a guy told me if i got a drake tank it would stop it becouse my air inlet on my tank is on the lower part of the tank unlike the drake with it closer to the top


later josh

[losifreak2004]

Josh - The newer tanks on any NT kits have the pressure fitting on the tank lid, which will help with your problem. It sounds like the pressure might be blowing the tank open.

Make sure you're using 12-14 inches of fuel line between your pipe and the pressure fitting on the tank, make sure your tank lid is sealing against the tank, and check to make sure the spring is fitting tightly. If not, use a set screw collar on the end of the spring to create a little more tension.

[dgrobe2112]

franknitty.. personally.. in nitro vehicles.. get the analog.. so much vibration on these.. that the digitals seem to go out.. not sure on the airtronics servos.. but the hitec digitals i used to run.. went out very quick.. and.. i had a KO Propo digital in my 1/8th scale.. that went bad.. all my airtronics regular servos are still workin.. if you want 2 good servos.. get the 94357, super fast.. and plenty of torque..

[losifreak2004]

357 for throttle in a gas truck is BIIIIIIG time overkill.

[dgrobe2112]

There is no such thing as overkill.. haha.. im talkin bout the high speed..

[Racin Rev]

Josh, I had that problem and got two pairs of hemostats at the hardware store. when i came off the track i clipped both the line from the pipe and the line to the carb (it would regularly hydrolock). that solved the problem but i eventually got the new tank so i wouldn't have to worry about it. The "chicken coop" style was a great idea in theory but in practice it just makes a mess. it also caused fuel foaming and reduced displacement because of the bubbles and the fuel which would invariably get pushed out the pipe. I am not sure that this whole pressurized fuel business is such a good idea anyway. last year i heard that drake was running without the pressure line hooked up. he claimed that it smoothed out the power band (with a carb adjustment). I don't know if he is still running this way or not. i tried it but couldn't sort out how to vent the tank without dirt getting in and vent the pressure line without getting gunk all over everything. went back to original just for simplicity sake. (didn't notice a great deal of difference in the engine either.)

[losifreak2004]

We're running pressure lines..I'm not sure where you got the information that running with no pressure line was regular practice but the only place we've really tried that with any success (or purpose) was Hot Rod. It makes the engine feel more like a modified electric motor with more instant throttle response...and it's kind of a handful at a looser track.

To do it, you simply need to put a piece of fuel line on the tank that's about an inch or two long to stop dirt from getting in there, and then seal the pipe. The you richen your engine a TON. Beware that when you flip over, your truck is probably going to die!

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. there were some guys at the worlds that do that.. run without a pressure line.. i never tried it..

[Racin Rev]

... Ah Ha! i suppose that is why i didn't notice the difference, i was trying to go the other way. with a slide carb i am already dealing with too much punch. you don't even want to know where my exponential is set. Ah well, i don't remember which magazine had that "tip" in it, it was a while ago. Wouldn't be the first time that erronious information was printed in the mags, nevertheless, it didn't work for me so i quit it. But what i really want to know is what "super dope" and "props" means?

[nitro_or_nothin]

Whats a great engine for the xxxnt i dont race i just bash and want more power so i could use a .12 to a .18 price dosnt really matter too much....i just want somthing that isnt too awful hard to tune...i dont need the most powerful....just want to step it up a couple notches....also what kind of crank does the xxxnt use?

[dgrobe2112]

uhh.. well.. a good all around motor would be the OS CVR, good power.. not too expensive.. easy to tune.. the OS CVR.18 is a bad dawg.. but.. i dont see all that power able to go to the ground.. too much power.. also.. the motor uses the threaded crank..

[russellr2k4]

Is it possible to over tighten the diff. After running for about an hour, I checked to make sure my diffs were still tighten. I held the left wheel and spur gear and started to turn the right wheel clockwise. Usually I stop when the spur gear starts to slip but this time it just keep turning. It turned about 2-3 turns. I stop in fear that I might of strip something. Everything seems ok. Should I take it apart just to make sure?

[Got Speed]

russellr2k4- Yes it is possible. I don't understand what your problem is though. Are you saying that when you check the diff it turns real easy? If so then something could be wrong with your diff that has caused it to loosen or you didn't get it tight enough the first time.

[russellr2k4]

Got Speed - It does not turn easy which is why it seems Ok. The issue is that although it's hard I could keep tighten it.

[Got Speed]

As long as your slipper plates turn when holding one wheel and the spur gear from moving and turning the other wheel then you should be fine. What I do is find a place where my slipper is just tight enough that it won't slip when accelerating but will slip when a big rut or jump is landed. Then I loosen the diff untill it slips first when doing the diff test. Then I tighten the diff a little bit more so it won't slip. That way you get a properly set up slipper and a diff that won't limit traction.

[dgrobe2112]

i always tighen the diff as tight as i can get it.. then loosen the slipper so the slipper slips before the diff.. and i am still on my first diff..

[losifreak2004]

If you crank the diff down too tight, it won't work correctly. As long as the slipper slips before the diff, it will last a long time.

To check your diff and slipper, hold the right rear tire and the spur gear with your right hand, and try to turn the left rear tire. The spring and nut on the slipper should turn, and you should be able to turn the left rear tire with a considerable amount of resistance. There is fine tuning involved but this will get you on the right track.

[yeeehaw]

hello I am new to the thread, I am also new to the stadium truck scene.
thanks for all of the future help I will recieve from yall.

thanx
matt

[losifreak2004]

Hahaha...a pre-emptive "thanks"? Awesome!

Anything I, or any of us here, can help you with...feel free to ask!

[yeeehaw]

first question: what is the hp on the mach .15 and the ets on the sport(top speed)
is there a graphite conversion or is just buy parts. what is the weekest parts on the sport and how much abuse will they take. any othre info I need to know before start thinking about racing.

thanks
Matt

[franknitty69]

is this item useful or is it best to stick w/the standard chassis?

i have the adam drake edition.

thanks

[losifreak2004]

yeehaw - Claimed HP numbers aren't important. The truck should do about 25-30 when turned correctly. There is no graphite conversion..just buy things as you break them. The weakest parts will probably be the arms, rear shock tower, and battery box...but they'll all take a considerable amount of abuse before they give.

Check with your local track to see if they will allow the .15 at their track. .12 is usually the legal limit.

franknkitty - I say stick with the standard chassis. Removing weight from the lowest point of the car would upset the CG of the truck.

[russellr2k4]

What kind of screw attaches the engine to the chassis? I’m looking for the screws that go on the bottom of the chassis into the engine mounts. They come along with the engine mount LOSA9336 but all I need are the screws. Thanks for you help….

[dkj-M3]

5-40x1/2" flat head screw

[dgrobe2112]

if you would like to know.. the claimed hp of the stock RTR engine of the losi.. is .56hp. no graphite conversion, however.. i think your RTR parts.. can take more beating than the graphite.. if you want graphite parts.. just put graphite as you break.. as mentioned before..

Welcome to our little nitch of the RC world.. you will love it

[cabbynate]

russellr2k4,
You can get team associated part # 9269. you get 6 screws in the pack for $2.00.

[cabbynate]

Racin Rev,
"super dope" means it's about the best you can get and "props" means, well you are giving credit to someone or something. This info is coming from a 39 year old guy that races with the young "in crowd" in California, Arizona and Nevada. ;)
~Nate

[W33dM4n99]

Hey guys, i just got my NT the other day and i came to find out that the stock mach.15 has no compression! :rolleyes: Oh well. I dont really want to spend the money to get this thing running again so im just going to get a new engine. Do ya'll think the O.S. cvr-x .12 is a good engine? And will it fit the xxxnt? Any info about this engine, or how it runs is greatly appreciated! Thanks

-Daniel

[microrcdude]

It will fit. Its a great motor if you plan on bashing, and occationally racing.

[tr918]

Hey guys, i just got my NT the other day and i came to find out that the stock mach.15 has no compression! :rolleyes: Oh well. I dont really want to spend the money to get this thing running again so im just going to get a new engine. Do ya'll think the O.S. cvr-x .12 is a good engine? And will it fit the xxxnt? Any info about this engine, or how it runs is greatly appreciated! Thanks

-Daniel

It will fit. I run an O.S. cvr-x .12 slide carb in mine. It produces more than enough power for me. It is a great motor for a low price.
-TR

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. great motor.. i currently race with a CVR .12.. and have no problems at all.. i got a rotary carb.. cuz the slide carb.. just has too much punch.. for offroad racing..

[Got Speed]

W33dM4n99- Yes, it will fit. I had a CV-R for a while and liked it. Never had an engine easier to tune and it produced pretty good power to. Great for bashing and racing on low traction surfaces(or untill you become real good at driving). Just make sure you get it with the std. threaded shaft. Not SG or short.

[losixxx213]

I have one question, if a motor is bogging down on acceleration, do I lean it out or richen it? It's been awhile since I've driven it and forgot what to do as far as engine tuning goes.

[dkj-M3]

make sure it's warmed up 1st before you touch the needles. sounds like the bottom end needs to be leaned a little, which will make the idle increase. So you may need to turn the idle down after you lean the bottom.

[losifreak2004]

That can be hard to diagnose..especially on the internet.

Bogging under acceleration can be caused by a too-rich needle setting, but also that the engine could be starving for fuel (which is usually apparent as the engine sputters).

nate - And "way super dope" is when it's really good...haha

Trinity-powered Losi XXX-NT ADE's sweep the 2004 Reedy Truck Race of Champions for the second year in a row!

www.hotrodhobbies.com

[dgrobe2112]

losixxx213.. it really depends on how the motor sounds when you gas it.. make sure the motor is up to temp.. also.. but what i would do if i was you.. pinch the fuel line.. and if the motor dies before 3 seconds.. you may be too lean.. but if the motor last like over 4-5 seconds.. then you are a little fat.. without hearing the motor.. its hard to tell.. could be a lean bog.. or a fat sputtery bog..

[Got Speed]

losixxx213- Let the car sit at idle. Does the rpm slowly drop. After letting it idle for 10 seconds when you go full throttle does it bog, sputter and maybe die? This will be a rich setting.

Or when letting it idle does it have a pinging noise and or the rpm constantly fluctuate? After going full throttle when you let off does it seem to take 2 or seconds for the engine speed to return to idle? If so this will be a lean setting.

This is all assuming your high speed needle is set pretty well. If it is then richen or lean the low speed according to what has been mentioned in this and the last few posts.

[cave]

awe i see

[dkj-M3]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1581230&posted=1#post1581230

[dgrobe2112]

beat me too it DK.. lol

[ross]

Is anyone tempted to sell thier current drakes to get the new one? I know I certainly am! :D

[dgrobe2112]

nah.. i am gonna update the rear end of mine with the new rear end.. is all..

[losifreak2004]

Have you already added the MF2 front end?

After that..all you'd need are the new axles! :)

[dkj-M3]

I'm getting a new kit, but I'm upgrading my old one to use for a practice truck.

[dkj-M3]

if those are the hubs in the pics, I saw Freak testing them at the Rd 2 of the pro-series at tiltyard.

[losiguy1090]

the new drake is coming out? can i see pics?


edit, nvm. saw it. ive got a bday coming up on october 30th so hopefully itll be out :D im so pumped, i want this car :cool: :p :D

[losifreak2004]

kj - Is "Freak" slobbatech?

XXX-NT AD2..bring on the 2005 ROAR Nationals :)

[losiguy1090]

Have you already added the MF2 front end?

After that..all you'd need are the new axles! :)

didnt it also say that the rear shock tower is stronger?

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. the new towers are supposed to be stronger, like the front end. Yes i have done the front end conversion allready, however, i heard the front end now will ahve pins to use rear tires or something. i dont have that done. I can see a 4WD in the future.. can you guys..

[dkj-M3]

kj - Is "Freak" slobbatech?

XXX-NT AD2..bring on the 2005 ROAR Nationals :)

Yeah, Robbers, now I can get it out. LOL

[cabbynate]

dgrobe2112,
Go to www.teamlosi.com to see your 4wd.

Aaron,
Are the new hubs 1dg or did they put a extra dg of toe-in in the rear block or in the rear arms maybe?

[dgrobe2112]

i dont see a 4WD... other than touring cars..

[losifreak2004]

KJ - Hahaha...hode on man!

Nate - On the prototype trucks, the one degree was built into the arms.

There won't be a race-level 4wd gas truck from anyone...at least not for a long time.

[cabbynate]

Aaron, Thanks, I hope they keep it that way.

dgrobe2112, The new sedan will most likely be the platform for the new 4wd buggy.

[dgrobe2112]

ahh.. i see what your sayin..

[losifreak2004]

Grobe - Don't take that in a "I'm trying to imply something without saying it" tone..haha. There is no class for 4wd gas trucks and they aren't allowed in the current races. It would take a HUGE movement on the part of the race sanctioning bodies to make the 2wd trucks obsolete and turn it into a 4wd class..and I really don't ever see that happening.

Nate - No plans for a new 4wd yet. There's another project in the works (like ALWAYS) but that isn't it.

[losiguy1090]

hmm, sounds like mabey a 1/8 buggy :p