Team Losi XXXNT forum v9.0

[dkj-M3]

hmmmmmmmmmmm

[ashxxxnt]

on a xxxnt would xxt tie rods work length wise. because i ordered a xxxnt sport off of stormerhobbies for 239.99 good price. but i have a extra set of titaium tie rods for a xxt that i dont want to go to waste so. i was just wandering if any knew. thanks

[losifreak2004]

losiguy - Nope. And I mean that sincerely.

[cabbynate]

Aaron. Cool. I have way to much invested in my XXX-4 to let it go by the way side. :)

[losiguy1090]

mabey theyre keeping it a secret from you :D haha jk if its not 4wd, i have no idea what it is. :confused:

[Got Speed]

ashxxxnt- I don't know if they are the same length. You will just have to match them up. But they should be the same diameter.

[Got Speed]

losifreak2004- lol, I hope your right. hehe I can't afford to buy a new 1/8 scale. Maybe I should start saving right now. lol

[losifreak2004]

They're not hiding anything..they just don't have plans to work on an 1/8th scale buggy. Losi has a full plate already!

[losiguy1090]

no kidding, ive never seen a company release 6 cars at once :eek:

[losifreak2004]

Hehe yeah..busy busy!

[dgrobe2112]

Well guys.. my first big race this past weekend.. with the gas truck.. i been racin 1/8th scale in big races.. but never ran my gas truck at any.. so.. i decided..to give it a try.. and i coulnt have been more pleased with the truck.. handled great.. all the help i been getting from here.. and Sgrid.. and some of the help from guys at the track.. i truck did great.. The fast guy.. i asked him what he thought of the truck.. and he told me i should try this.. and try this.. and the truck did great after that.. here are a couple pics.. i want your opinion.. mine seemed a little higher in right height than his.. tell me.. this is the same turn..

mine first
http://www.rcfiles.com/gallery/data/500/3DSCF2586-med.jpg

then the guy who won..
http://www.rcfiles.com/gallery/data/507/3DSCF2585-med.jpg

his seems lower.. dont it.. maybe i could soften my truck some.. in the ride height.. who knows.. but my truck did great.. i couldnt be more happy..

[Got Speed]

It could just be how hard he went into the corner or how soft his supension settings are. If it works good now right down the settings then tinker with them. If it gets better then leave it like that but if it dosn't get any better then just refer to your setup you wrote down.

[dgrobe2112]

good idea.. he is the guy who helped me with setup.. now.. im sure he has some secrets in there.. but he told me the oils he is running.. and stuff like that.. an i assumed the ride height was level.. so.. but.. yeah.. your right.. dont mess with too much.. cuz its workin good right now..

[Booyah]

Maybe I missed this somewhere, but does someone offer a pre-built thrust bearing assembly?? One where you dont have to put the balls between the washers and grease.....

[Got Speed]

Booyah- There was talk of Losi making it a running change a while back but I've never seen any being sold? Anyone here anything new about it?

[losifreak2004]

Booyah - The older thrust bearings were caged. I'm not sure which version went into production but the AD2 will feature a new thrust bearing.

Grobe - Whose truck is that? Looks familiar.

Having your rear ride height set higher will give you more forward bite.

[losiguy1090]

iI saw one on horizone a while back. forget the part # tho

[dkj-M3]

go to skipgear.com he sells them. I think the traxxas one & the schumacher one works as well. I have the older losi ones but never used it. the losi one is plastic. the others are metal.

http://main.skipgear.com/

http://198.93.112.47/skipgear/pictures/ThrustBearing.jpg

dgrobe- He probably just went into the turn a little harder.

[dkj-M3]

didn't work

[Booyah]

go to skipgear.com he sells them. I think the traxxas one & the schumacher one works as well. I have the older losi ones but never used it. the losi one is plastic. the others are metal.

http://main.skipgear.com/

http://198.93.112.47/skipgear/pictures/ThrustBearing.jpg





Nice, never seen that thrust bearing setup before! Should work very well. Thanks

[dkj-M3]

I think the new kit is going to come with something similar to this.

[losiguy1090]

losifreak, i was flipping through my new RCCA and saw a pic of that truck at the kyosho nitro challenge.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

hey guys remember me anyone? whats up, its been a long time since ive posted here. well anyways i ran my xxx-nt for the first time since january..wooo what a rush. ill try posting here more often but ive been busy with school.

-dalosi

[losiguy1090]

briefly, sounds pretty good. man, can't imagine not driving my cars for almost a year :eek: id go freakin nuts :p

[losiguy1090]

for the guys that have sirio evo 2's, what do you think of it? i was considering getting one next season and putting my nova rotary carb.

[ross]

losiguy1090,
Had about 5 litres through mine now and its excellent, no problems with reliability once youve got some fuel through it. At the moment Im running mine a tad on the rich side and its still bloody fast and doing 7.5 mins a tank :D and its running seriously cool. I should lean it out really because I and my pitman know there is still alot there for it to give I cant remember how hot it was running last time but it wasnt much over 100*C.
Its the 3port version and to be honest the 5 port would be way to much power especially for you lot running on tight, dusty tracks. No need for nova carb unless of course you really want a rotary carb, standard slide isnt causing me any problems so far.

[cave]

Got Speed you Racing SRS on Saturday night?????

[losiguy1090]

thanks Ross :)

[cave]

Happy B day losiguy1090

GS Got yer E mail. I'll be there too.

[losiguy1090]

Thanks man :cool:

[losifreak2004]

I ran my new Rossi Pixy .12 last night in my truck..and really liked it. 10+ minutes on a tank was no problem, the engine came off under 200 degrees, and ran with Adam down the straightaway no problem. This could be next level? We'll see...

[dkj-M3]

thx 4 the info

[cave]

Congrates Got Speed on your "A" main 1st place finish. That was some fun racing. We were all battling for the top 3 spots. I'm just glad I didnt break!

Any one know how to remove the sleeve from a Mugen MT.12? I got the head off and the rear cover. Now what? I want to send the sleeve and piston in to OS rocket.


cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Yeah, that was a fun race. What I've had to do in the past with the P/S is to heat it up with either a heat gun or put it in the oven. Then take the back end of a ball point pen and push up on the sleeve from the backplate. You can also try a soft peice of wood like a dowel stick and putting it through the exhuast port pushing up on the sleeve to get it started.

[cave]

Thanks GS. Could you email me OS Rockets email so I can find out when he will be taking orders again?
Here is a pic of GS working hard to get the 1st place,


cave

[cave]

Here was mine last night.

[losiguy1090]

nice truck :cool:

[cave]

Thanks. Its time for a new body. I'll wait till the rear end tears off then I'll put the new one on. I got a new red & silver body. problem is that there are a few in those colors. I forget which one is mine in the pile up. I got to stick to these 2 colors Orange and blue.

[losifreak2004]

Try sticking a zip-tie through the exhaust port and all the way across the piston to wedge it into the intake port, then turn the engine over to push the sleeve up.

[dkj-M3]

Try sticking a zip-tie through the exhaust port and all the way across the piston to wedge it into the intake port, then turn the engine over to push the sleeve up.

Nice, i'll try that next time. I normally use the end of a flexible toothbrush.

[dgrobe2112]

Try sticking a zip-tie through the exhaust port and all the way across the piston to wedge it into the intake port, then turn the engine over to push the sleeve up.
man.. i dont know bout sticking anything in the way of the piston or anything.. could cause damage.. if.. anything.. i would try to push the piston all the way through the top.. and it will push the sleeve out with it.. i am just leary about doing that.. could scar the sleeve.. or piston.. or both..

just my .02c

[losifreak2004]

I've done it PLENTY of times; the plastic zip-tie is no match for the metal components of the engine...there's no harm done. The piston usually cuts the zip-tie and then you pull the piece out. It's a lot better than chipping the sleeve by trying to grab it with pliers, and a lot easier than trying to push it out with something.

[losiguy1090]

I rebuilt my diff about a month ago. It's been working pretty well. Last weekend I went to the track and it was slipping a lil bit, so i pulled it off the track to check the diff. The diff slips VERY easilly. One of the guys at the track thought it was my diff gear so i replaced it. NO DIFFERENCE! I dont think that the parts inside the diff [rings balls etc] need to be replaced because the diff action is still very smooth. Anyone have an idea whats wrong? I'm about ready to sell my nt and get a gt :mad: The diff wasnt slipping until that day[i know cuz i always checked it after every run]. Ive rebuilt my diff 2 times in one season and its getting me mad. Once again, any tips are appreciated. :(

[cave]

Losiguy1090 Have you read Got Speed's write up in volume 8? that has about all the info you need. It is kinda tuff to find the sweet spot in these diffs but once you do its purdy durable. I beat the heck out of mine so expect to break parts faster than the lets say more professional drivers :D I do have alot of fun. That is why I race. To have a good time and meet all the great peps out at the track like Brandon (GS) and many others.
Stick with the Losi and find that sweet spot It takes time. I found that if I ran mine on the asphalt before a race that my diff would burn up quicker whilst I raced on the track. I dont do that anymore. Sometimes the cure is right in front of me. I just had to be told what I was doing wrong. Lucky for me there are alot of racers here that are not afraid of giving advice.
I think we all felt like you do now. I'm so glad I stuck with Losi. I'm on my second Losi. If money allows I'll pick up another AD2.

Edit: What about the lock nut on the end of the slipper. Replace it...

cave

[losiguy1090]

the nut on the end of the slipper? What will that do? :confused:

im gonna race it this winter to see if i can get it right, if i can ill get the ad2, if i dont im gonna get a mugen or an AE :mad:

[winning edge designs]

I'll see if I can help......You haven't mentioned your slipper, so I would check to be sure it is set to slip a little. Most of the supposed "diff problems" people talk about are due to the fact that the TeamLosi slipper can be locked up solid, the others can't be, so the others slip even adjusted to what feels like tight.

The only way the diff, if properly biult, will slip is if it is too loose, or the slipper is too tight.......that's the only two ways it happens, no magic or voodoo, etc. :).

Set the diff tighter then you would an electric, just a little, then adjust the slipper to slip a little, I start at 6 turns out from bottomed when all parts are new. Then run the truck a few laps(not tanks) and readjust everything as needed. Now you can adjust the slipper to a race setting(less slippage, but not tighter then the diff) and you should recheck it before any race longer then 5 minutes. I hope this helps.

As far as the other trucks, one is a copy and the other will be replaced soon...most likely without quick change rear hubs and the plush TeamLosi suspension, ;)......jmho, Jim

[losifreak2004]

Jim - If that one was a copy it would work better..and the other one has no choice but to copy a few things or they're going to be in BIG trouble next year! :cool:

losiguy - Don't give up yet. The Losi diff will last just as long, if not longer, than the diffs of the other two trucks, and with a lot less work. The trick is to make sure you have it adjusted correctly even as the diff breaks in.

Go ahead and pull it apart to inspect everything. Make sure nothing is damaged, and put it together according to the manual. Use Associated Black grease or the new Losi brown/white assembly grease on the thrust bearing. When you're putting diff lube on the balls, make sure you're not putting too much in there because it will cause the diff to slip; you only need enough to evenly coat the balls. Work the diff back and forth as you tighten it in small turns. Use two allen wrenches to hold the outdrives while you try to turn the diff gear; if you can turn the gear, the diff is simply too loose, so you'll need to tighten it before you put it in the truck.

Break it in on the bench by holding one tire and applying 1/4 throttle for 10-15 seconds, alternating side to side for 5-6 times each. Make sure the diff is properly adjusted before heading out to the track, and pay careful attention to it for the first few runs. After that, just check it before each run, and it should be fine.

[Saboteur]

Anyone know who sells a std crank to fit the MT12? Guess its time to ditch the Mach engine. Might sell the 8th scale and concentrate on the NT.

[losiguy1090]

thanks guys. none of the parts appeared to be damaged. i think i just put too much grease in the diff. im gonna take it apart today after school, clean it out and relube it. and i know its the diff cuz it tightened the slipper all the way and held the spur, right rear tire and turned the left one forward and it turned very easilly. but i just put way too much grease in there. so ill try that and see if it works. if it doesnt ill just rebuild it.

[losifreak2004]

That's a very common mistake but it's easily corrected. Once you do that and get your diff set correctly, it should last for a long time (barring disaster..haha).

[dgrobe2112]

Losi guy.. sounds like your getting on the right track.. do the same test you did in you last post.. to readjust the slipper.. so the slipper slips before the diff.. and you are dialed.. i am still on the original diff from my original build.. getting a little gritty.. not too bad.. but.. havent had to take it apart since i built the truck.. knock on wood.. When you get it right.. you should not have to mess with it much.. depending on track conditions..

[cave]

losifreak2004 & GS Thanks for the ziptie deal. Sleeve and piston finally wedged out after the second try of the ziptie. 1st time it cut it. That seamed to pry the sleeve loose.

Anyone have OS Rockets E mail????? Or page post from back in the day here????

losiguy 1090 These guys really helped me out on the diff stuff. I've learned now that the slipper has a bit to do with the whole deal. I burnt up a couple diff gears trying to find the sweet spot. But It was my fault that I didnt ease into it. I should of done like w.e.d. mentioned "a lap or two" I headed out full throttle to test. Be patient. It will pay off in the end!

cave

[Saboteur]

Does anyone like running the Losi pipe compared to other pipes? I see them a lot on most NTs whether racing or bashing. They said it doesn't rob the engine of power, but smooths out the power. I'm waiting for my blue ballcups, Ti turnbuckle set, and gladiators to come in. I don't know how, but the rear tires wobble on my ride. I think it has to do with the wheel hubs since it looks like it has two places where the pin can sit into. The outdrive or axles aren't bent so it has to be it.

[cave]

I run the Drake pipe and it did make a difference on the top compared to the stock Losi pipe. I do have some racing buddies who race the fantom pipe. It seams to work well with the Mugens, Serio, RB, Picos & Novarosi.
I have bent Brand new rims on tough tracks here and found that when I continue to use them I burn up hub bearings.

cave

[dgrobe2112]

ditto.. rims do bend.. and they will wear out the bearings.. Also.. the drake pipe is designed to not kill the bottom end. but smooth it out.. good top end.. little more quiet than other pipes... the AE pipe.. is a little less top end.. but really good bottom end pipe..

[dkj-M3]

cave- this was posted on the starting grid:

"Hey guys dads(osrocket) still in the hospital but doing alot better. He was
lifeflighted to cleveland due to a serious infection.... He has had surg
and removed the infection... it is believed that it came from his first
back surg in 98 or so.... the type of infection wasn't a bad one just
was eating away for sometime now... he is getting better and hopefuly
come home within a week or so.. once again guys sry for this delay but
nothing can prevent something like this. if u have ne questions plz
post them on here and i will try to answer them or email my father...
Matthew Bogardus thank you for posting... thanks guys
Matt"

[dkj-M3]

osrocket@neo.rr.com

[cave]

Thanks dkj-M3 I emailed him a get well message. Hope he gets better soon. I have some buzinez fo him.
I heard from Got Speed that he was out of commision. When hes better I'll ship him my Mugen parts.
Thanks again!

cave http://users.pandora.be/eforum/emoticons4u/fingers/fing31.gif

[losiguy1090]

I don't know what do now. I took the diff apart again today and cleaned out all the grease, regreased it using as little grease as possible and it still slips. The only thing I can think of is to replace the rings and balls. After I rebuild it, I think im gonna sell it :(

[dkj-M3]

if you race at a track, have one of the a-main drivers, or someone that knows how set-up/adjust your diff. & check out how he does it, then check & feel how tight/loose the diff should be after he sets it.

How is it slipping, when you drive it or in your hand.

[dkj-M3]

have you replaced the diff nut. they may be the problem. try a new one.

[losiguy1090]

Thanks KJ. I'll try that. I'll get a new nut/screw and new rings and balls. We'll see what happens then.

[losiguy1090]

Oops, double post. Had a brain fart :rolleyes:

[losiguy1090]

Thanks KJ. I'll try that. I'll get a new nut/screw and new rings and balls. We'll see what happens then.

I havnt run it yet but when I tighten the slipper down all the way and hold the right rear tire and spur gear and turn the left tire forward, the left tire turns with hardly any effort. Even with the diff locked. I'll have one of the drivers check it out at the track.

[dgrobe2112]

hmm.. i am gonna go thru my diff this weekend.. and see what you may be talkin about.. i dont understand why you lock the slipper.. then do the test.. that test to to adjust the slipper.. not to check the diff.. you are supposed to do that out of the truck..

I agree.. replace the diff nut.. also.. try getting the new gen 2 diff nut and screw.. that may work better.. i dont know..

[dkj-M3]

sounds like the nut or screw is stripped

[losiguy1090]

The nut wasnt stripped. Replaced it anyway. I got the new parts. But when I was putting it together, the center of the male outdrive cracked so now i need a fricken outdrive :mad: The diff wasnt even that tight when it broke. It was just starting to press against the spring. So now i need to make another trip to the hobby store half an hour a way [which i was just at] and get the part. But it makes me so mad cuz I've had it apart 4 times in the last 2 weeks trying to figure out whats wrong. I'm about ready to get a GT :mad:

[dgrobe2112]

dont get mad.. GT will be bout the same way.. then you will be mad.. cuz the Losi's keep passin you.. haha.. just kiddin.. the GT is ok.. just not that great of a truck for offroad.. hope it all works out.. i think you will be much more happy after the fix up.. :)

[dkj-M3]

WOW, the outdrive cracked. That may have been the problem. maybe it was warped or had a stress fracture or something. Never heard of a cracked outdrive.

[losiguy1090]

Neither have I. It must have been messed up or something because the diff was'nt even that tight. The center just pulled right through. I heard the crack and gave a tug on the outdrives and the male outdrive came off.

[dgrobe2112]

wow.. pretty weird.. i rebuilt my diff last night.. went together smooth as silk.. no problem at all..

[losiguy1090]

double post.

steve, when will RCZ be fixed for us AOL users?

[losiguy1090]

My diffs have lasted fairly long in the past. For some reason I keep having trouble with this one. :confused: And I've NEVER had problems putting them together either.

[dgrobe2112]

i know.. i was just sayin... i didnt have any slipping or anything like that.. went smooth.. and the diff is silk..

[losifreak2004]

That's very strange..I've never seen an outdrive break. Hopefully after you get that replaced it will help.

You are correct in locking down the slipper to check your diff while it is still in the truck. You can use the same test to check the slipper once you have loosened it.

If you were able to lock the screw down and it still slipped, it sounds very much like you are missing a part or something. The best thing I can say without being there to look at it is to make sure you have everything there. Is your thrust bearing in good shape?

I know it's hard but don't get discouraged..you'll get the problem figured out (and it will probably be something silly) and you'll wind up being very happy with the truck.

[losiguy1090]

Thanks Aaron, I hope so. The thrust bearing is is pretty good shape. I havn't even run a gallon through it. Doesnt look like it's worn. I really hope it works after I get my outdrive today. It's been out of commission for 3 weeks :(

[losifreak2004]

You seem to be stricken with the worst luck..I really have no explanation for the problems you've been having, especially because I can't see the truck for myself.

Make sure your tranny bearings and everything are free; any binding could cause heat and parts failure. I would do the best you can to make sure everything is copasetic and try again.

[losiguy1090]

I got my outdrive today. I put everything back together and the diff is pimperishly smooth :D And it's tight enough! Thanks for all the help guys. I'm gonna go break it in tomorrow.

[losifreak2004]

pimperishly? no no no.."pimpishly" hahaha

Glad to hear everything worked out :). Be careful when you're breaking it in and pay attention to the adjustment the first couple times you run it. Good luck!

[dkj-M3]

Team Pimp'N

[losiguy1090]

I am sorry Aaron, I'll try to remember next time :p How do you guys break in your diffs?

[dgrobe2112]

break in a diff.. i run the truck on the box.. holding one wheel for a few seconds.. then the other for a few seconds.. check the tighness.. readjust if needed.. do it one more time.. holding each wheel.. check tightness.. dialed.. :)

[losifreak2004]

Bingo. Except I do it 4-5 times per side. :)

losiguy - It's alright..we all make mistakes.

[dgrobe2112]

losifreak.. is your initials AW??

[losifreak2004]

Yessir! I'm Aaron Waldron

I made this screen name thingy back in 9th grade when it sounded "cool"..hahaha

[winning edge designs]

Ya, but your still a Losi freak just like me, Mwahahahahaha.........LOL, Jim

[losifreak2004]

Good to hear..I thought for a while there you were gonna turn into a traitor!

[winning edge designs]

Yeah, i've had people ask me how I am such good friends with Jason Ruona, when he runs for A/E.....Basically i'd never throw a way a good friend of 12+ years over a toy car brand. Besides, now with him running for A/E and me for TeamLosi, now our body line will be more diverse! LOL......;), Jim( jconcepts.net )

[losifreak2004]

Amen!

[winning edge designs]

IN case someone hasn't already said....Adam and Jesse were the class of the field at RC Pro, thier trucks were really, really lookin' good.......Adam was a better ballcup away from winning, or at least baggin' second easily..........Jim

[losiguy1090]

Thanks for all the help with the diff guys. I finally think I know what I was doing wrong. I was using diff grease in the thrust bearing :rolleyes: I dont know how big of a deal this is, but it could probably lead to the diff blowing out early. Who knows? :confused:

[dgrobe2112]

you were using the clear diff lube in there. rather than the white diff grease?? hmm.. could cause a prob.. keep us posted on how it works out..

[ross]

Ive always used the clear diff grease you get in the syringe on the thrust, and well put it this way I built my new drake in Aug 03 and Ive only just rebuilt my diff for the first time the other day because as you can imagine it got a bit notchy :D In my opinion as long as you use diff grease it doesnt make a whole lot of difference.

[losiguy1090]

Sorry, I miss worded that statement. I was using thrust lube on the diff balls. Someone told me that AE black grease was diff lube [guy at lhs] but I found out the other day that it was thrust grease.

[dgrobe2112]

ahh.. black grease on the diff balls.. i think that is a no-no.. i have never done it.. but i heard it will make the diff slip.

also.. if anyone is interested.. i got a Losi XXXNT roller for sale. cheap. Comes with lots of stuff like spare arms.. and hubs.. and a dacemfg brace for the rear battery box. i am lookin for round 100 plus shipping.. i got pics.. email me dgrobe2112@netzero.com

[losiguy1090]

I would guess so because the diff was smooth but it lasted less than a gallon and it was tight enough. But I replaced it and we'll see how things go in a couple weeks at state champs :cool: I'll probly be in the b main for st but i think i have a pretty good shot at making the a in mt. :cool:

[XXXNTMAN]

I have a question about my car. I'm not sure why but it needs to be primed a lot do i need to just mess with my settings or is there something else i should do?

[losiguy1090]

If your having to prime it alot to get it to start, either your running too lean or your plug is dead. Try richening up the needles 1/4 of a turn and replacing the plug. Also, what engine do you have and exactly how many times do you have to prime it? A little more info could help me answer this quenstion a little better.

[low10s]

also check and make sure there is not a small hole in the pressure line.

[evaderstman]

Well he is my nieghbor and is here right now the engine is a os .15 cv-rx and at first it primes right up but if it stalls it has to be re primed.

[losiguy1090]

If it has to be primed after its been started, it's most likely too lean. Try richening up those needles.

[XXXNTMAN]

Ok, thanks i tried that at the track today and it worked ok

[losiguy1090]

Good, glad you got it running right. :)

[XXXNTMAN]

Yeah now that that problem is fixed i have to take it apart because i have to clean it because the track was kinda muddy i'm not great with tools and i dont want to do it but i need to which stinks i wish i could show you some pics but my camera is having troubles

[evaderstman]

There is pictures of mine here and i went with him his is only slightly worse than mine
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=183456&page=2

[dkj-M3]

oh man

[winning edge designs]

Simple green is the ticket.....just make sure you dry everything and the hinge pins, hardware and ballstuds especially. Otherwise they rust and corrode pretty bad, making the truck look really old. You can also spray WD-40 on everything but the ballcups to help prevent rust........If you get it on the ballcups they'll start popping off easier.........Jim

[losiguy1090]

Or if you have an air compressor the stuff will just fly right off. Then you can get the rest off with cleaner.

[MikeWz]

You could also buy a bottle of that nitro blast stuff. Dynamite sells some and I think Trinity sells some. My LHS carries it though and it's pretty cool. Best of all, it blasts all the stuff right off, then evaporates like immediately. It's kinda expensive at like $5 a bottle, but it gets the job done real well.

That's right boys, I'm back. Sold my NT back in the summer and I totally regret doing it. Will be buying another one shortly :D

[losiguy1090]

Or if you can get non chlorinated brake cleaner it works just as good and is like 1 to 2 bucks.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. i agree.. my sentiments exactly.. OH MAN.. that is nasty.. i would not have raced in that race.. go to www.avidrc.com to replace the bearings. cheap, and great products.

use brake cleaner, or i use carb cleaner, Wal-Mart for 0.88 cents a can, and that will help, then air compressor and simple green.

[losifreak2004]

WD-40 and an old toothbrush will clean ANYTHING.

[dkj-M3]

WD-40 and an old toothbrush will clean ANYTHING.

yep, plus air compressor is what I use. You don't even have to take it apart. I just pull the engine.

[losifreak2004]

True, compressed air is a big help.

WD-40 leaves no residue when blown off, prevents rust, cleans parts, and won't harm plastic. It's cheap and easy to find..perfect :-)

[MikeWz]

I need to get a compressor. Need it for my airbrush and to clean the car...maybe I shoud look into that :p

What starter box are you guys running (for those of you that need them)? I'm getting a drake edition with a Modded MT12 :D . I'm excited. It's only $180 too, so that's awesome

[Saboteur]

Wicked deal! Snatch it up before it goes! :D

[dkj-M3]

get the losi box, its already pegged & lined up for the NT

[losiguy1090]

It's already lined up? Nice. I think it's the same as the Dynamite box, that's what I have.

[MikeWz]

Sab - haha, it actually went up A LOT within the last few hours. I had to try :D . It looks like I'm probably going to be buying yours, I just have to make sure my XBOX sells for what I'm hoping it does first :o

That losi box seems pretty nice...although I was never a huge fan of the 2 550 set-up, it'll probably be enough to start a Fantom engine

[losiguy1090]

I have the Dynamite box which is the same box, and I didnt need to heat or lube my CX12 when it was new, started straight up. No trouble turning it over. And I'm using stick packs in my box.

[evaderstman]

I have a dynamite ready start for my evader but it also works on my nieghbors xxx-nt if you set the pegs and it turns over the engine nicely

[XXXNTMAN]

yeah when i first got my car he had just got the starter and it was set for a xxx-nt and i used that to get mine to start but i had to play with the screws for a long time before i got it run good

[losifreak2004]

I'm using the Losi box, it's pretty stout. I have a 12V motorcycle battery in it, and it works great.

[XXXNTMAN]

where did u get the box?

[losiguy1090]

www.horizonhobby.com

[XXXNTMAN]

I was looking on ebay i think they might have had that starter box and lots of stuff for cheap if you want to.

[Tim'sLosi]

Do any of you guys have the instruction manual for the Losi Shock Matching Tool?? I bought a used one and while I get the general idea, I know it does more than one function. If someone could scan one and email it to me it would be highly appreciated!
Thanks,
Tim

[losiguy1090]

I don't have my instructions anymore, but it measures shock length, helps set preload, and helps to determine if your shocks have equal damping.

[MikeWz]

It's real basic. Just attatch the shocks and check to see if they're level. If they're level, step 1 is complete. The, set the pre-load where you think you want it for your truck. After that, re-attach them and compress the tool with them on there. You'll see the needle move if they're not set equally. It's pretty basic.

[evaderstman]

There was an article about it rcca that showed how to use it though it was a few months old you can probably find it somewhere

[Tim'sLosi]

There was an article about it rcca that showed how to use it though it was a few months old you can probably find it somewhere
Found it online...thanks

[winning edge designs]

You also need to use this tool to check parts which cause a difference in damping. For example the differences could be shock shaft tolerances, cartridge tolerances, or tightness, piston rub on the inner shock body, O-ring tension........The oil is obviously the same if it came from the same bottle, so it takes some trial an error to find and correct any differences from one shock to the other......Jim

[losiguy1090]

I just put in new oil, put the cartridge on snug and compress the shaft until oil doesnt leak out. It makes the shocks perfect every time.

[franknitty69]

Don't mean to hi-jack but i'm selling my XXX-NT on eBay.

Losi XXX-NT Adam Drake on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5942106010&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT)

[losifreak2004]

Just received official word today from the man himself...the AD2 should be shipping as early as next week!

[winning edge designs]

Swweeeeeeeet!................Jim

[Tim'sLosi]

Extension:
Take the guesswork out of adding shock limiters. To check that the extended shock lengths match perfectly, fully extend the shock matching tool. The pointer at the base of the tool will indicate if the extended lengths are equal. Metric and standard graduations on the length of the body give exact ball cup center-to-center measurements.

Compression:
To compare compressed shock length, fully compress the Shock Matching tool. The pointer at the base of the tool indicates if the extended lengths are equal. Graduations on the length of the body give exact ball cup center-to-center measurements.

Dampening:
To compare shock pressurization and dampening rates, move the slider and observe the pointer. Ifthe pointer remans motionless in the center, a perfect match is achieved. If the pointer moves, it is time to rebuild the shocks.

Spring Rate:
With the springs attached to the shocks, it's easy to verify if spring rates are equal. Simply compress the tool. If the pointer stays motionless, the spring rate is identical; if not, the pointer will swing toward the weaker spring.

[Tim'sLosi]

How many times have you seen a car that just wasn't right, and no one seemed to have the answer? Many times it is traceable to the shock absorbers. Shocks are undoubtedly one of the most important parts of chassis tuning, but there has never been an easy and accurate way of comparing, matching, adjusting and measuring them... until now. Team Losi's truly ingenious Shock Matching Tool is just such an item and easily the most useful tool a racer will have at his disposal. Gil Losi, Jr. developed this tool while doing intense shock testing and has fine-tuned it over 10 years.

No matter how much you know about pistons, dampening, limiting or any other shock tricks, racers have always "guessed" at these most critical facets of the shocks. This easy-to-use tool serves the primary functions of checking and comparing O-ring condition, pressurization, condition of fluid, spring balance/rate or how a shock change compares with what you were running. Additionally, you can use it to precisely match your shocks for length, limiting and find an accurate starting point for a spring change.

To match a pair of shocks, simply put them on the tool and move the balance bar to the extended position, then slowly push it down to the compressed position. The ball bearing-supported pointer will move with even the slightest differences between the shocks. You will graphically see any variances and be able to address them as necessary.

For instance, you may have put a new cartridge in one shock, causing the drag of the new O-rings creates an imbalance. Maybe one shock has ingested dirt, and the O-rings are no longer sealing well. Or possibly you didn't bleed the shocks equally, and one shock has greater pressure than the other, necessitating re-bleeding.

Additionally, you can see how a change will affect your shocks by making a change on only one shock and comparing it to the unchanged one. After you know that your shocks are operating equally, you can put on the springs and accurately adjust them with equal preload, followed by a compression test to insure equal spring rate and function. It almost sounds too easy, but you won't believe the results this has on handling.

[Tim'sLosi]

This article has four pages that detail the functions this tool can perform. Much more useful than I even thought! The links are to the left of the page.


http://www.horizonhobby.com/Explore/Article.aspx?ArticleID=1365

[losiguy1090]

I was racing at the state champs for Illinois today and yesterday. For qualifying, everything imaginable went wrong[other than the diff, haha] with both trucks. But I stayed up late trying to get them to work right and ended up putting the back up motor in the savage and adjusting the linkage on the NT. Luckilly it was best 2 out of 6 for qualifying, cuz I was able to get 2 half way decent runs in with both the trucks. For mt I qualified in the c-main[lots of truggies ;) ] and for the NT I qualified in the B-main. I ran a great race w/ the NT and after a bad start ended up snagging second in the B-main. Not bad for my ATROCIOUS qualifying yesterday. Didnt get to race the savage though cuz the P/S broke when I was trying to start it. But I was pretty happy about my finish w/ the NT after qualifying. I was so frustrated that I almost withdrew. :rolleyes:

[dkj-M3]

good job, with the truck, I tried to make that race but couldn't. Had some buddy's there tho, Jim Couch, Dave Taylor & Nick Cummings.

[MikeWz]

What engine are you guys running in your trucks? I'm gonna wait out the AD2 and thinking about putting in the FR-12 '05 when I get it.

[dkj-M3]

good choice, my buddy just broke his in, it hauls & it's smooth. I would get one but already have 2 engines plus a backup that I am happy with, so I probably will not have a new motor for a while. My choice of engines to buy right now would be the 05 fantom SE, sirio drake edt. SE, or Nova/top CX.12 or if you can find one a Drake nova edt.

[losiguy1090]

For the same price you can get the TOP CT12 which will have about the same power but will probably last longer.

[winning edge designs]

I run the top .12, barrel carb, lots of power and the carb seems decent as well, so no need for an O.S. carb....Jim

[MikeWz]

Yeah, I've had nothing but good experiences with Fantom's stuff. I had one of their '02 ABSCs in a XXX-NT and it was nice. People didn't like them because they weren't breaking them in right. I had no problems with mine. I also like their pipes a lot too. The dual chamber pipe keeps things real smooth, I love it. Can't wait to see what their new engines can do

[losifreak2004]

Both the Sirio Evo 2 and side exhaust Drake Edition motors are dialed. You can't go wrong with either; great power and fuel mileage.

I've been running the Rossi R12 Pixy for a little while now. I have an engine that's broken in for next year's races, and I'm getting 11 or 12 minutes on a tank at Hemet, using an O.S. rotary carb. I'm breaking in Mike Truhe's motor right now and I'm using the stock slide carb, and it's butter smooth. The motors produce a TON of power but it's very driveable.

[losiguy1090]

Do you mean that the Pixi is very driveable? Last paragraph confused me a bit. lol.

Oh yeah, forgot to post this earlier. More stuff about the state champs. I dont know if anyone has heard of Dave Mettetal. But anyways, this guy asked my friend to marshall for him because he recently had knee surgery and couldnt marshall. So my friends out there marshalling, and suposidly he didnt pick up his car "fast enough" and he started making very aggressive comments at him, me, my father and several other people around. His only comment was "I was on Fu***** tq pace!" My dad finally got the track officials to talk to him about it [btw, the guys who own the track are a lot older and smaller than this guy] and he looked like he was gonna take a swing at the guys :eek: So my dads like "touch him and you will very greatly regret it" [if you know what i mean ;) ] But after a while he settled down and raced out the rest of the day. BUT, he was a no show the second day of racing. But after the second day of racing, me and my dad sent very long letters to his sponsors informing them about his behaviour, hopefully he'll get dropped and mabey ill get some stickers or something :D Sorry bout the long post, just thought id share this with everyone because theres no excuse for treating the kids that he should be trying to get into the hobby the way he did.

[ashxxxnt]

are the one way bearings junk on the mach .15 or what mine will only catch about 1 out of ten pulls and ive ran 10 tanks thur it it started on about the 6 tank. and also the front end is very sloppy would a shim kit fix that buy the way its a brand new truck. ive never seen such a sloppy truck. my old xxt dont have that much play in the front end. the head buuton was also threaded werid had to get a new one. what makes the one way go out like that.

[dgrobe2112]

dont know bout the slop in the front end.. make sure all your screws are tight. every RTR i seen has held up really nice in the parts department. The pull start on the other hand is something i think is a problem, i seen alot of RTR losi's with the pull starter dont work for very long.

[dkj-M3]

slop doesn't really matter that much in off-road. You should see the slop from my worn out front pivot block. I actually have tested running without the 2 front screws in the rear pivot block, guess what. It was dialed both times I did it. Had mass forward bite, with out spinning out.

[winning edge designs]

ashxxnt, try removing and cleaning the pullstart one way bearing, it slips if covered in fuel oil. Be carefull not to let it spring apart or it's nealry impossible to reassemble. Some "slop" or play in the suspension is normal and far better then a binding suspension. to see the amount of play would help, also check for tight screws and missing spacers, etc, with the manual to be sure........jim

[losiguy1090]

Clean the one way real good. Then go to your hobby store and see if they have any one way bearing lube. I got some from X-Ray and it works great.

[losifreak2004]

***NEW UPDATE***

The new AD2 kits are being shrink-wrapped (first ones went through
today!) and being sent back to the warehouses back east. Hobby stores
across the country will get the trucks around the same time, and you
should start seeing them popping up on shelves next week!

[dgrobe2112]

SWEEEETTTTT!!!! well now looks like i need to save a little scratch.. possibly next week.. thats awesome.

[losifreak2004]

The hobby stores will be getting them next week..just in time for Christmas!

[XXXNTMAN]

are aluminum shock towers worthit because i have gone through about 5 of them and i was wondering if they like bend and can't be bent back

[winning edge designs]

I never run aluminum shock towers in gas truck. The only aluminum in my suspension is the rear pivot block and front axles.........The latest shock towers are pretty durable, I mean, you can't run over them with a cadillac, but they are plenty strong!....LOL...Jim

[dgrobe2112]

or get a dace brace for the rear tower.. www.dacemfg.com

[losifreak2004]

The AD2 shock tower will work, and it's a TON stronger!

[dkj-M3]

aluminum shock tower will bend.

[evaderstman]

wait isn't the ad2 tower graphite? From what i hear the graphite breaks easier than plastic so how would that be?

[dgrobe2112]

its a new drilled tower than a formed one.

[dkj-M3]

don't know if it's me or not, but I hate the plastic. I break the plastic more than the graphite tower.

[evaderstman]

well thats what his tower is that he keeps braking like one of them he rolled it one pavment and it rolled a time or two and it was broken when it stopped and that is pretty weak i would say.

[losiguy1090]

In the 3 years I've had my truck, i havnt broken one rear shock tower, rear hub, or rear pivot block. [although i did put in an alluminum pivot block a few months ago] But almost every part on the new truck is stronger/better than before. It just might be mroe durable than a gt. :eek:

[Y2KGTP]

I just bought a AD kit a couple weeks ago, as it had a good price (260$..I thought it was a good price)....I knew the AD2 kit was coming out, but was more $$$, and I just did not want to wait........maybe I should have, as I still have not broken in the motor yet.. :rolleyes:

[losifreak2004]

Graphite is stronger than the stock plastic any time the ambient temperature isn't "cold". If it's warmer than 45 or 50 degrees outside, then the graphite parts are going to be stronger. For a long time, the only graphite parts we ran were the front bulkhead and rear shock tower.

The new plastic pieces are VERY beefy..especially the rear arms! :)

[XXXNTMAN]

but with the alluminum shock towers if they bend can you bend them back?

[winning edge designs]

You can, but shouldn't, since aluminum has poor memory, that is it will stay wher you bend it and not want to return. This causes cracking and a generally shabby looking part........Stick with the graphite, it works great in most racers trucks. Running the truck on the street without a body may break it, but that's to be expected, imo.......Jim

[dgrobe2112]

ditto.. the truck is designed to work. some parts are desinged to break.. so you dont break something else, break an arm, rather than break something inside the car that is harder to fix.. break the shock tower instad of the diff case.. lot easier to replace a tower than to take the transmission case apart..

[losifreak2004]

Any crash that would successfully break an plastic part such as an arm or shock tower, will usually bend an aluminum replacement. The difference is that a plastic or graphite shock tower is $10, versus $40+ for an aluminum one.

[losiguy1090]

Also, if you bend alluminum, it becomes almost twice as soft.

[dkj-M3]

rolled it one pavment and it rolled a time or two and it was broken when it stopped and that is pretty weak i would say.

anything will break on pavemant/concreate. you'll lose everytime.

[losiguy1090]

Thats weird. Ive rolled over w/ no body on pavement. Ive bent a few shock mounting screws, but no shock towers. lol

[XXXNTMAN]

ya well the only time it broke when i rolled over was when it rolled over into a curb but u no its still fun to watch

[JamminJay]

I am just curious, I am used to front or rear facing fuel tanks and the losi one is side mounted. right now i have a handle made out of zip ties going thru the roof and its not working out too well. Can i see some pics of how you guys run handles for the tank? Do you guys cut out what would be the passenger window? All I have cut out is the drivers window and a cooling hole in the windshield.... TIA. -Jay

[losiguy1090]

I took a long zip tie and wrapped it around the lid. Then I put a peice of fuel tubing on the end, put on the end of a zip tie to secure it and stuck it out the drivers side window. Works great.

[JamminJay]

drivers window? how can that work with the way it opens? it opens the other way.

[losiguy1090]

My bad, I meant shotgun side window.

[JamminJay]

oooo ok.. I was gonna say, next question, as i have tried this way, but the fuel line wont fit over my zip ties, is there a way to stretch it over it without it tearing? thanks again. and also did you just make a lil hole in the passenger window or is it all cut out?

[losiguy1090]

I cut out the whole window. I used a thick zip tie, but i managed to get it over alright. Was a lil tough, so I put a lil WD40 on it and it went on pretty easilly. Didnt feell like it was about to tear.

[JamminJay]

ahh wd40 good plan... thanks alot :D

[losiguy1090]

No problem.

[XXXNTMAN]

my neighbor (evaderstman) drilled a hole through the roof of his car and one in the handel and ran a zip tye through the two holes and just pull it up ill se if i can find some pics

[XXXNTMAN]

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=183456&page=2
Look at the little blue zip tie on the fuel tank its kinda hard to see but its there

[JamminJay]

No need.... thats how I have mine right now.... but at the track it doesnt work all that well.... thanks tho

[dgrobe2112]

i dont use a zip tie, cuz i can pick up the truck and with a finger through the hole in the driver side window, flip the lid, and fill through the front window.. and my pit man does it opposite, he graps the truck through the front window, and fills in the side.

[winning edge designs]

That's the interesting thing about our great hobby/sport. One guy can drive over thier XXX-NT truck with a bulldozer and drive away, another time a guy will post that it broke setting it on the track when a breeze came by!.....LOL, Jim

[winning edge designs]

I fuel all 1/10th trucks thru the windshield using my thumb on the lid, even the A/E truck gets the same treatment. I've had tie-wraps cause too much trouble, so I stay away from them now. When Greg Degani and I raced pit stops on Jason Ruonas truck at RC Pro, I beat him with a 2.6 second pit stop doing the grabbing and fueling myself, he did a 4.5 using the tie-wrap....I won a set of knuckles, hahahaha.......Jim(www.jconcepts.net)

[losifreak2004]

Many racers will cut out both side windows and the driver's side half of the windshield; the fastest way we've found to pit the XXX-NT is to stick your thumb through the windshield to flip open the tank, and to use your palm and fingers to hold onto the roof of the body and hold the truck up off the ground, no railing needed. The fuel bottle goes through the driver's side window.

[Y2KGTP]

Battery box question.....is there a better way to get to the reciever pack other than the 4 small screws? I have 2 RTR's & a AD kit, and this is just a pain.....maybe cross drill some hex screws, and use small body clips somehow?

[dkj-M3]

I fuel all 1/10th trucks thru the windshield using my thumb on the lid, even the A/E truck gets the same treatment. I've had tie-wraps cause too much trouble, so I stay away from them now. When Greg Degani and I raced pit stops on Jason Ruonas truck at RC Pro, I beat him with a 2.6 second pit stop doing the grabbing and fueling myself, he did a 4.5 using the tie-wrap....I won a set of knuckles, hahahaha.......Jim(www.jconcepts.net)

exactly

[Tim'sLosi]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGCA9&P=7

My batt box solution

[losifreak2004]

I've seen them bend, and it's too much weight! The stock box is fine, especially on the AD2.

I have a charge jack made from regular gauge wire and a Dean's plug that sticks out through the front of the box lid.

Merry Christmas everyone!

[dkj-M3]

yeah, I've seen the alum box's bend & break off, believe it or not. My buddy went back to the stock box after his alum box broke off.

[dgrobe2112]

i use the stock box with the dace brace.

[winning edge designs]

I've been running the XXX-NT since it was early production, I have broken my share of battery boxes, but never DNF'd because of it, usually just cracks.......I'd stay away from the heavy, expensive aluminum, only because I wonder what other problem it may create?......jmho, Jim

[Y2KGTP]

I'm just looking for an easier way to open it....I don't have a nicad pack inside, I'm using 2300mah AA's....

It's just such a pain to open it up.....what is the size of the driver needed for the screw? My kit does not fit this, and i have to use the L wrench....need to go to Sears to get a good driver for it......

[losiguy1090]

Just put in a larger headed, 4-40 screw.

[Saboteur]

I just dremeled the rx batt cover near 3 screws so now I just bend top back and it sorta locks into the screw. I'll try to take pics to show ya when I mean. Screw taking out all those screws just to check up on the batt. :)

[Breakin2]

What engine are you guys running in your AD2s? I wanted the Sirio Drake, but that's set up for side exhaust and the new truck's manifold is side exhaust.

[dkj-M3]

that's set up for side exhaust and the new truck's manifold is side exhaust.


you mean rear exhaust. just buy a side exhaust header. if not get the rear exhaust version of the sirio. or get a '05 fantom for cheaper, then you can get the side header.

[Breakin2]

Yeah, I did mean rear exhaust. I decided to go for the Evo II for $10 more.

[losifreak2004]

Not a bad choice at all :cool:

[Y2KGTP]

I just dremeled the rx batt cover near 3 screws so now I just bend top back and it sorta locks into the screw. I'll try to take pics to show ya when I mean. Screw taking out all those screws just to check up on the batt. :)

That sounds good....if someone made a aluminum top cover with larger holes, so you could use 4-40 screws drilled to take a body clip, that would be ideal....

Slot the back 2 holes and use body clips on the inner side? Just a thought

[losifreak2004]

I have a Milwaukee handheld driver and a bunch of allen bits for it; taking the box apart in under two minutes is no problem at all :)

[evaderstman]

Can you post a link to this driver it sounds like something i would be interested in.

[losifreak2004]

http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=27&catalogId=40027&langId=-1&productId=281130&mainHeader=Cordless+Tools&categoryId=189329&mainCategoryId=362

[evaderstman]

Thanks that is pretty cool does it need to be charged often?

[evaderstman]

Also where did you get the hex bits for it i can't find them on the site.

[dkj-M3]

ofna has the bits.

[Y2KGTP]

What are the sizes of the wrenches that come with the XXX-NT RTR's....I want to pick up some drivers from Sears this weekend, so my boys have tools of their own.....

[losiguy1090]

I wish I could tell you, but the labels are worn off of mine cuz I've had em so long, mabey a sign to get myself some new ones :D The only ones I can still read are, 1/16. Thats the second smallest one. If it helps any, the Losi only uses 4 sizes and theres 2 more above 1/16

[dgrobe2112]

5/64, 3/32, and .050

[winning edge designs]

And 1/16th.........;), Jim

[Y2KGTP]

So, I need 5/64, 3/32,.050 & 1/16 Hex drivers?

My drake manual states 3/16,1/4, 5/16 & 3/8 nut drivers optional.....are these the L hex tool sizes, or the locking nut driver sizes?

Is the .50 screws the one the battery box & engine screws use on the bottom of the chassis? I think this is the size I need for my took box as well, in addition to my 2 boys......

[losiguy1090]

.05 is the set screws on the linkage. Not sure on the battery box screws, they may also be the trans brace screws behind the spur.

[Y2KGTP]

Just wanted to confirm, as the manual is not that clear....I want to buy just the specific drivers I will need.....(my boys will need......)

[dkj-M3]

5/64, 3/32,.050 & 1/16 are the only ones you'll need, I forget what size the wheel nuts are, but I always use a 4way glow wrench, for those.

[Y2KGTP]

5/64, 3/32,.050 & 1/16 are the only ones you'll need, I forget what size the wheel nuts are, but I always use a 4way glow wrench, for those.

Thanks, the kit's come with a nut driver for the wheels & slipper, so I think I'm good there.....thanks!

[dgrobe2112]

those are the only tools you should need.. i still use the cross wrench the kit came with for the wheels..

[nitro_or_nothin]

Since i have little nitro experience, and i am mechanically inclined could i build a xxnt adam drake 2? I want that truck but i dont want the sport rtr, i want all the hopups etc and a better motor...also whats a good motor, radio gear and servo's for it? i dont race just bash, hours from tracks and the only thing i can run on around here is a motocross track....

[Y2KGTP]

Since i have little nitro experience, and i am mechanically inclined could i build a xxnt adam drake 2? I want that truck but i dont want the sport rtr, i want all the hopups etc and a better motor...also whats a good motor, radio gear and servo's for it? i dont race just bash, hours from tracks and the only thing i can run on around here is a motocross track....

I'd get a RTR for just bashing around....I bought 2 for my boys for X-mas, for 239$ each....(pull start) and if you get bored with the .15 engine, you can get a .18 for under 100$

If you get a AD2 kit, it will be about 300$, + radio, + engine, + starter box, etc......just my 2 cents...

[ragamuffin]

Losiguy1090 Have you read Got Speed's write up in volume 8? that has about all the info you need.


Can some post up a link? I am in the process of rebuilding my NT's diff. I was considering an aluminum diff gear but many vets say that that's a no-no. :eek: Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

[losiguy1090]

Dont put in the alluminum gear. Its heavier and it puts more strain on the other gears in the tranny, so youll have to rebuild more often.

[winning edge designs]

Nitro or Nuthin, If you want the best, the Kit is the way to go. The RTR doesn't have the quick change wheels, updated suspension, or body, etc......yet.

For an engine, especially for repeatability and bashing, stick with an O.S., the O.S. .12TR uses the included manifold, the .12 CVR uses a side exhaust manifold, that you would need to buy, but works excellent as well.

I like the XS3 Pro radio, it has 10 model memory, so any new additions to your R/C arsenal only require servos and reciever. It also comes with acceptable and usable servos for 1/10th gas truck, even a high torque metal gear steering servo! It isn't the best servo on the planet, but is three time stronger then the usual included servos..................Good luck, Jim

[winning edge designs]

Ragamuffin, the aluminum diff gear will still slip if not adjusted correctly, just like the stock one, but instead of it stripping, it will tranfer the heat to the idler and strip that!

Simply adjust the diff correctly, recheck it after breaking it in(1/3-1/2 tank or so)then make sure the slipper slips before the diff an you'll NEVER have a problem.......Jim

[Legacy]

Hi all. I'm new to RC and am looking at a couple of nitro stadium trucks. Mainly the Traxxas Rustler and the Losi XXX-NT Sport RTR w/XR2i. They are roughly the same price and I'm wondering if one is a lot better than the other. Any advice would be appreciated. For more background info, see my thread in the general forum titled "Need friendly advice". Thanks!

[losiguy1090]

The XXXNT is ALOT better. Handles a lot better, better radio, everything about it is better other than the traxxas has more suspension travel.

[evaderstman]

That kinda depends the rustler makes a great basher, but if your going to race go xxx-nt.

[Legacy]

I don't plan on racing yet. I will be using more around my yard and street. It's a new subdivision with plenty of dirt areas. Is the Losi not as durable as the Rustler??? Also, I can't afford the Adam Drake 2, so should I go with the XXX-NT Sport 2 RTR if I go with Losi? I guess I'm just wondering if the Losi is a much higher quality truck than the traxxas for about the same price.

[nitro_or_nothin]

thanks jim,i sold the t-maxx and my rustler and im looking to buy a xxnt sport rtr2 or the drake2....also been pondering on wether or not to get a lst, i dont know which would be the better choice for where i live....no tracks....but alot of parkinglots too and a motocross track....hard decisions.....

[Legacy]

thanks jim,i sold the t-maxx and my rustler and im looking to buy a xxnt sport rtr2 or the drake2....also been pondering on wether or not to get a lst, i dont know which would be the better choice for where i live....no tracks....but alot of parkinglots too and a motocross track....hard decisions.....

Why did you sell the Rustler? Just curious as I may buy one...

[evaderstman]

The losi isn't as durable as the rustler but is much higher quality and will handle better and jump smooth and as long as your not taling monster jumps you should be fine with the xxx-nt as it is a great truck.

[winning edge designs]

Nitro or Nuthin, the LST is a bad arse truck, but not for the light of wallet, since it comes very well equipped. A radio you can actually leave in and an engine that will have it pulling wheelies once fully broken in and tuned.

Legacy, The Rustler is made of more flexible materials, which adds some durabilty, but removes some driveability. It's just a matter of determining which is more important to you. In all honesty, the XXX-NT Sport is a great truck and will handle almost anything normal you could do to it.......Plus, if in 6 months, or a year you DO decide to race, it'll be there for you, imo......Jim

[losiguy1090]

Just finished laying down the paint on a new body. The metallic green ran a lil cuz it was cold outside[mom wouldnt let me paint in the garage :rolleyes: ] Turned out pretty decent, heres the pics.


Ill try again later, I'm trying to upload them but it keeps saying "website not responding"

[nitro_or_nothin]

legacy...good beginner truck, just wanted to step up a bit and build my own since ive always had rtr..good basher truck, just wanted more adjustibility and handleing

[Legacy]

How about the XTM X-Cellerator? It's less expensive than the rustler or the xxx-nt sport 2. Is it not as nice of an rc as the other 2?

[Racin Rev]

How about the XTM X-Cellerator? It's less expensive than the rustler or the xxx-nt sport 2. Is it not as nice of an rc as the other 2?

In short.... no!

I would go nitro evader before xtm (for that matter before traxxas too).
But if you want the best your choices are either losi or associated.

[EF9sleeper]

i need to put a new motor in my nt and was wondering what the best smallblock would be to use and also does anyone make a conversion to use a four stroke. thx for any info

[losiguy1090]

I dont think anyone makes a 4 stroke conversion.

Are you looking for ps or non ps? price range? Side exhaust or rear exhaust?

[dkj-M3]

whatever you get, make sure you can get parts for it.

[JamminJay]

I raced today and could not get my truck to handle for crap..... the *** end was all over the place.... I loosened the slipper, turned down my EXP on my radio no matter what I did it wanted to slide all over.... the track is a hard packed clay blue groove track that had some moisture in it today, but I was the only one with problems......
My setup in the rear is as follows: 35wt oil, orange springs, with the preload clips about 1/2" from top of shock, shock on outside hole on tower, and upper inside on arm. also was running taper pins, (lil wore down, but not bald.) thanx ahead for any suggestions.

[Legacy]

I'm now leaning toward a losi ST, the rustler is still a possibility though. Rustler seems faster and I hear pull starts are a pain... If I go with Losi I'm torn. I can get a xxx-nt sport rtr with xr2 radio for $240, or go with the sport II with xr2i radio for about $350. Worth it?? not sure abou the radio differences, but I think the sport II isnt a pull start which I like. Still confused : ) Is the "sport" not as good as the regular xxx-nt??

[EF9sleeper]

sorry i guess a little more info would have been better huh. well i would like a pull start and it dosent matter if its rear or side exhaust. 300$ and under canadian. i was also thinking about the new os 18 tz it comes with a pull start and has way to much power like 2.28hp or something so that should do well.

[dkj-M3]

I raced today and could not get my truck to handle for crap..... the *** end was all over the place.... I loosened the slipper, turned down my EXP on my radio no matter what I did it wanted to slide all over.... the track is a hard packed clay blue groove track that had some moisture in it today, but I was the only one with problems......
My setup in the rear is as follows: 35wt oil, orange springs, with the preload clips about 1/2" from top of shock, shock on outside hole on tower, and upper inside on arm. also was running taper pins, (lil wore down, but not bald.) thanx ahead for any suggestions.

sounds like the diff was too tight, making it a posi diff. make sure, the rear arms are level/dogbones a little above level.

[losiguy1090]

try this setup (http://teamlosi.com/pictures/jpegsetups/xxxNT/xxx-nt_std_adam03.jpg)

If its still too loose, try pink springs in the rear. I run that setup w/ pinks in the rear and its pretty much dialed everywhere.

[nitro_or_nothin]

legacy....the xxnt sport rtr2 comes with a spin start, in my honest opinion is easier than a pull start, and the xxxnt sport rtr2 is not that far off a regular xxxnt....and the xxxnt sportrtr2 will accept all the regular xxxnt or drake hop-up parts....correct me if im wrong?

[Legacy]

is the sport 2 worth paying $100 more than the first sport?