Team Losi XXXNT forum v9.0

[winning edge designs]

Jammin Jay, another thing to try is moving the rear hubs forward...But, first, make sure you have the same tires as the fast guys, in the same condition, or you can't expect the same results. Rear ride hieght is a definate factor as posted above, most run it lower trying to get more bite, but it won't work that way. I also run 40 wt sometimes in back as well as 2-4 degrees anti-squat.........Jim

[losiguy1090]

Legacy, when the Sport 1 came out, it was the same price. But your getting a better engine and thats about 100 dollars right there, a spin start which is another 30 or 40, new body, new wheels. So if you think about it, its really a bargain.

[losiguy1090]

Is anyone else having problems with posting pics? I pull up manage attachments and find the file I want and press upload, but it keeps saying "website not responding"

[Y2KGTP]

Legacy, when the Sport 1 came out, it was the same price. But your getting a better engine and thats about 100 dollars right there, a spin start which is another 30 or 40, new body, new wheels. So if you think about it, its really a bargain.

Does it have a new Engine ? I bought 2 as they were 239$ each, and I have a starter box already for my AD kit that fits these as well.(I did not want to wait for AD2 to come out, and I paid 260$ for the drake kit....)

I figure they were good starter trucks for my 2 boys......Hell, I had a tamiya Frog as my first "real" RC..... :D

[losiguy1090]

Well its the same engine, just rear exhaust, so its a lil more powerful and slightly more fuel efficient. But the engine you have will have a lil more top end since its SE.

[Y2KGTP]

Well its the same engine, just rear exhaust, so its a lil more powerful and slightly more fuel efficient. But the engine you have will have a lil more top end since its SE.

But I could not pass up RTR's for 239$ :D

I almost wish I bought a 3rd for myself, and not gotten the AD kit ......almost...

[Y2KGTP]

I have a AD XXX-NT, (obviously, as I am in this thread) and was wondering if anyone has a synthesized receiver installed, and an easy way to access it....I was thinking of drilling a large hole (1 inch perhaps), and a rubber plug that fits? I just want to be able to change frequencies without having to pull the receiver cover off, in case of conflicts during practice times, etc.....

[losiguy1090]

Thats exactly what most guys do. Drill a hole in there and use the rubber mesh plug from the xxxs to plug it. My favorite one was this guy who cut a whole and made a lexan sheild, and attached it w/ one screw so it could swivel.

[Racin Rev]

has anyone else had trouble with this thread not scrolling down to the new posts?

[Y2KGTP]

has anyone else had trouble with this thread not scrolling down to the new posts?

Yep.....link goes to page 29 or something

[Saboteur]

Same here. This is weird. :confused:

<<<-Selling SPort NT.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. page 29, where that guy post a link of the milwakee drill or something..

[dkj-M3]

yep 29 same here.........

[losiguy1090]

same here

[winning edge designs]

29....Jim

[losiguy1090]

It worked this time.

[Legacy]

I think I may have settled on the xxx-nt rtr sport. A big deciding factor between it and the sport II (or others) is the price at Stormer Hobbies. Can't beat $240.... The down side is it has the pull start and the xr2 radio instead of the xr2i. Still worth it though. Pull starts aren't THAT bad are they? The money I will save will most likely go to an electric ST to run while the weather is bad...I'm trying to convice my friend to sell me his T3.

Anyway, let me hear it pros...does this seem like the right move/good deal?

By the way, this is a great online community, thank you all for being so...

[JamminJay]

I have a AD XXX-NT, (obviously, as I am in this thread) and was wondering if anyone has a synthesized receiver installed, and an easy way to access it....I was thinking of drilling a large hole (1 inch perhaps), and a rubber plug that fits? I just want to be able to change frequencies without having to pull the receiver cover off, in case of conflicts during practice times, etc.....


Ok guess i'll answer you first, yes I have the JR RS300 in my drake, I just made sure where I needed to access, and cut a retangle out and used the small yellow retangle plug. Not sure if its the same one Losi was talking about as he said a XXXs plug, but i kept my packaging and it is part # LOSA3244, and it says its for a XX4. Anyway, you get 2 plugs a round one and a retangle one...the rectangle one works awesome.

[JamminJay]

sounds like the diff was too tight, making it a posi diff. make sure, the rear arms are level/dogbones a little above level.

Thanks, but i did check the diff, and the arms were level.????


LosiGuy..... I looked on that site, and I may try the pink springs, but no one really uses step pins on our track, Its too hard packed. most people run the taper pins, which I had on. This is my local track so I am used to the foundation of the track and usually my set up is ok, I'm usually fast, stick on the track, and can jump smooth as hell, Sunday just really stumped me as I tried everything in my mind, altho I only have red and orange springs, I'll buy more this weekend. I also bought some king pins today for the rear and mounted them up. I'm not a newbie, but was just looking for a lil input.... Thanx, I will try the pinks tho.

[losifreak2004]

With the old truck, we were going to 40 on 6's with red springs and moving the hubs forward if the track got very slippery, but that was only on a very few occasions. You may want to use the MF2 anti-squat shims, or the small gold washer that comes with the Trinity shim kit to add one more degree of anti-squat, which will give the truck more forward bite.

[losiguy1090]

Jammin Jay, Those tires are just there because they work on most tracks. You just have to change tires to different tracks. That setup works just about everywhere, so try that setup and see if it works. If your gonna pick up springs, I'd pick up pink and yellow.[in case you come across a very slick track]

[winning edge designs]

Just a note...softer springs don't mean more traction, in fact usually less. What is confusing is the fact that the softer springs will allow the truck to roll around more and "feel" like you can stay on top of it easier. Softer springs actually allow more chassis roll, which is wasted energy if it's excessive and when the chassis rolls, it means it isn't pushing the weight on the tires. I would only try a softer spring if the ones on the truck now aren't allowing any chassis roll, or very little.

Think of it like anti-squat, more anti-squat means more forward bite..This is because the energy is used to push the tires, rather then rolling the truck backwards and lowering the ride hieght under acceleration...........I would try one spring softer and one stiffer to see the difference. Note that I use orange all around on my truck, :).........Jim

[Tim'sLosi]

I think I may have settled on the xxx-nt rtr sport. A big deciding factor between it and the sport II (or others) is the price at Stormer Hobbies. Can't beat $240.... The down side is it has the pull start and the xr2 radio instead of the xr2i. Still worth it though. Pull starts aren't THAT bad are they? The money I will save will most likely go to an electric ST to run while the weather is bad...I'm trying to convice my friend to sell me his T3.

Anyway, let me hear it pros...does this seem like the right move/good deal?

By the way, this is a great online community, thank you all for being so...

1) The rtr sport is a great truck. Do you have a local hobby shop that has parts? If not, get a pit box together with common breakage stuff.

2) The Mach 15 starts fairly easily...can be a little rough to start when warmed up. You could always geta bump box for it. The only prob is that the one-way slips easily on the Mach, especially when it is run rich. if it happens you just have to remove the pullstart and clean the brg with alcohol.

3) The Losi XXXNT bashes well and is race capable from the box. Read up on how to properly adjust the ball diff. It is a common for newbies to go through a few during the learning curve. Where would you run the EP ST when the weather is bad? Hopefully indoors ;)

[JamminJay]

Jammin Jay, Those tires are just there because they work on most tracks. You just have to change tires to different tracks. That setup works just about everywhere, so try that setup and see if it works. If your gonna pick up springs, I'd pick up pink and yellow.[in case you come across a very slick track]

Ok will do, in the next couple weeks I am going to be purchasing alot of support equip. pistons, springs, rebuild kit, spur an diff gears, brake disc.. you get the idea. Right now I don't have any support stuff really, so I'll give it a try. I did get those king pins done.. they look like they may help. Thanx again for the input.

[JamminJay]

BTW....can some 1 give me the website or point me in the direction to find one of those Dace braces for the battery box? Thanx!

[losiguy1090]

Theyre homepage doesnt work, so you have to go into google and type in "dace mfg"

[dgrobe2112]

www.dacemfg.com

[dgrobe2112]

that link worked for me..

[Y2KGTP]

I like the typo:

LOSI XXXNT CANCER CHASSIS

http://www.dacemfg.com/Page.cfm

[JamminJay]

Thanks guys for the replies :D

Y2k are you sure thats a typo? If you click on the more info, it's like that on the next page too. Highly unlikely to be a typo in 2 places. But I suppose I could be wrong. :rolleyes:

[Y2KGTP]

Thanks guys for the replies :D

Y2k are you sure thats a typo? If you click on the more info, it's like that on the next page too. Highly unlikely to be a typo in 2 places. But I suppose I could be wrong. :rolleyes:

I would think it was to be Center Chassis, but I could be wrong....

[dgrobe2112]

i think what that is.. if you buy that chassis.. you make a donation to a cancer fund or something..

[Legacy]

1) The rtr sport is a great truck. Do you have a local hobby shop that has parts? If not, get a pit box together with common breakage stuff.

2) The Mach 15 starts fairly easily...can be a little rough to start when warmed up. You could always geta bump box for it. The only prob is that the one-way slips easily on the Mach, especially when it is run rich. if it happens you just have to remove the pullstart and clean the brg with alcohol.

3) The Losi XXXNT bashes well and is race capable from the box. Read up on how to properly adjust the ball diff. It is a common for newbies to go through a few during the learning curve. Where would you run the EP ST when the weather is bad? Hopefully indoors ;)

Thanks for the reply!

1) I have a LHS 10 minutes away that carries tons of Losi products (probably more Losi than any other brand).

2) That makes me feel a little better about the mach .15. Is a bump box synonomous with a starter box? If so, how do they work? Similiar to a hand held electric starter such as the Rustler's? Price for a decent one?

3) The electric would not be allowed outside unless it was dry. :D I'm pretty type A with stuff like that. Running the truck through some mud would be fun but not worth the risk or clean up IMO.

Thanks again.

[XXXNTMAN]

I have a question. What would you recommend as far as brand for a starter box for a xxxnt?

[losiguy1090]

I have a dynamite and it works great. Used it for 2 years and ZERO problems.

[dkj-M3]

I have a question. What would you recommend as far as brand for a starter box for a xxxnt?

losi sells a box, already lined up for the xxxnt, i just bought it. i like it. you would need 2 stick packs or buy a 12V gel cell tho.

[Tim'sLosi]

I have a question. What would you recommend as far as brand for a starter box for a xxxnt?
I recently bought an OFNA box. It does 1/10 off and on road as well as 1/8 off-road. It came RTR with the power panel, glo starter clip, 12v battery all assembled. It looks like the 10257 model. Cost me about $100 but I bought a GT with no PS and had to have it. I just got a rail dragster that can't use a pullstart so I am glad I already have the box. The ignitor function rocks...very strong "glow", actually sparks if I bump the head! I delayed buying one but I do like it now. The Losi box would be just fine if you only have one vehicle and not 14 like me :rolleyes:
http://www.ofna.com/start-box.html

[Tim'sLosi]

From the Rusty forum...I didn't want to bash the Rusty there :o

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, the speed would be awesome. It's hard to pass up stormer hobbies deal though. They have a Losi xxx-nt sport rtr for $240. Comes with a great radio too. What do you think?

Dude...break the Mach in properly and you will be loosening your slipper like I had too to keep the truck from flipping on it's lid! AND you will be going 40+ mph. I have both, I would recommend the Losi. I am in the middle of rebuilding the Rustler. I took it apart to clean it and found a bent chassis. It was so flimsy I couldn't bear to keep it stock so I bought an upper and lower RD Racing chassis to stiffen it. The NT chassis is still thicker than the RD. The only beef I have with the Losi is it's upper chassis. You have to pull it to remove the steering servo. There is an aftermarket part to fix that though (http://mivasecure.abac.com/remotecontrolhobby/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RCH&Product_Code=CHS-LOSITP&Category_Code=CHS). The only reason it bugs me is I like to keep my stuff very clean and that usually means pulling the electronics to protect them.
Really...I have the Losi XXXNT, the Mugen MST-1, the RC10GT, the HPI Nitro MT and the Rustler 2.5 . I think a Losi would be a great first truck for you. As you said, the radio is great and has room for two more models so you can get a Rusty 2.5 and a Nitro MT2 later on :D

[losiguy1090]

You dont have to pull the top deck. You can just take off the front end [6 screws].

[Legacy]

Tnaks Tim'sLosi. Funny, my name is Tim.... :D I'm also looking at buying an Electric Losi, possibly the xxx-t sport II. May get that first even though I prefer nitro. Just too cold here in St. Louis to break in that engine I think. So, if I have the xr2i radio from my electric purchase, couldn't I save money and just buy the xxx-nt sport ARR for about $185. But then I need some components like the servo and another receiver. How much for that? I could just get the RTR for $240.... How do you use one radio for multiple vehicles? Thanks.

[JamminJay]

You are correct, you would need another reciever and servos for that truck... this is a tough call here given the price difference. I mean you could just get another sport and use one radio, and keep the second as a back up, or just buy the single reciever and 2 servos. Keep in mind, I believe the sports come with 2 std. servos so you'll want a better steering servo anyways, especailly on the nitro truck. in the end I think it would be cheaper and wiser to just buy 2 sports, use the second radio as a backup and upgrade the steering servo or the nitro. Hope that shed some light on things.

[winning edge designs]

The Native racing top deck is nice.......But even though alot of people say how hard it is to remove the servo, the only time i've ever had mine out in all these years is to rebiuld the truck. But, of course then it's all apart anyhow..........Just a thought, Jim

[dksu]

Hi I'm new to rc and can anyone please resolve my confusion? I bought a used truck from ebay. it came with two servos and a receiver. So I need to buy a transmitter. But my question is whether I need to buy a transmitter that is made from the same company as the receiver. For instance, the receiver that's in the truck is hitec. So does this mean that I need to buy a hitec transmitter? Also, what are crystals?

[dgrobe2112]

Ok, when you buy a transmitter, it will most likely come with a receiver, unless you spend alot of money and get say an M8 without a receiver. If your lookin for a used radio, you may be able to get radio only.

However, most hitec receivers, are universals, meaning you can use them with any radio of the same band, and frequency.

What i mean by band, is, AM, FM, it will say on the receiver, 75mhz AM or 75mhz FM or 27mhz AM or 27mhz FM

You must get a radio witht he same band.

Next, you must get crystals, these are the pieces that plug into the receiver, and radio, they will match each other. Meaning, if you have a #66 crystal for your receiver, you must have a #66 crystal in your radio.

Depending on your band, you have different options of crystal channels to use.

75mhz FM or AM are on channel 61-90 that is 30 different channels
27mhz FM or AM are on channel 1-6 that is only 6 channels to choose from.

[dkj-M3]

what model # is the receiver?

[dksu]

thank you very much for the detailed explanations. So is it always better to buy 75hz than 27? How much are crystals? thank you

Ok, when you buy a transmitter, it will most likely come with a receiver, unless you spend alot of money and get say an M8 without a receiver. If your lookin for a used radio, you may be able to get radio only.

However, most hitec receivers, are universals, meaning you can use them with any radio of the same band, and frequency.

What i mean by band, is, AM, FM, it will say on the receiver, 75mhz AM or 75mhz FM or 27mhz AM or 27mhz FM

You must get a radio witht he same band.

Next, you must get crystals, these are the pieces that plug into the receiver, and radio, they will match each other. Meaning, if you have a #66 crystal for your receiver, you must have a #66 crystal in your radio.

Depending on your band, you have different options of crystal channels to use.

75mhz FM or AM are on channel 61-90 that is 30 different channels
27mhz FM or AM are on channel 1-6 that is only 6 channels to choose from.

[dksu]

Another newbie question. I always have my slipper clutch tightened all the way. Is that bad? If so, what is the proper way to adjust or set slipper clutch and what is the exact function of slipper clutch? You guys are very knowledgeable and hopefully from this site I will manage to abandoned my dummy rc status! :p

[losiguy1090]

You DO NOT want the slipper clutch that tight. You can have a serious meltdown on your hands. Tighten the nut down to fully locked, then back it off 5 full turns. Thats usually a pretty good starting point. To check the slipper, first set it at about 5 turns out, then hold the right rear tire, spur gear and turn the left rear tire forward. If the slipper plates and spring BOTH turn, your good. If they dont turn even if your slipper is at 5 turns, tighten up the diff a lil. You do this by sticking an allen wrench into the right side outdrive and turn the left wheel backwards in small increments[1/8 turn] until the slipper slips using the test above. Or to tighten the diff, you can pop a camber link which give you a more straight forward angle at the diff screw, but it takes longer. hehe

But you were askiing how a slipper works? Theres 2 alluminum plates on each side of your spur gear, and under those plates are 2 plastic pads. If set correctly, the slipper will slip slightly before your wheels start to spin in the dirt. They shouldnt slip under normal accell though. It also acts as a fail safe to your tranny.

[winning edge designs]

Too add a bit....I always set my diff as tight as I think it can be without acting like a posi, just a little more then an electric diff. This is mostly because the gas turcks go thru much longer mains and qualifiers then electrics, so there is less time for routine maintenance, so it should start out a little tighter....After the diff feels the way it should to you(or an experienced racer) set the slipper to slip before the diff does.

Warning, if you try and run the slipper to tight and crank down on the diff because it is, the diff locknut will strip....This means the slipper is too tight for the diff to have any chance of not slipping............................Hope this helps, Jim

[dgrobe2112]

correct.. just to maybe explain what losi guy did..

your slipper pads are underneath the big aluminum plates on the spur gear, Spur gear is the big main gear next to the motor. Now, there is a spring, with a nut on it, that you say is tightened all the way down, well, turn it out 5 full turns (360 degrees)

Next, pull off your right rear tire. and the pull off the ball link that is attached to the rear hub, so your axel will come out of the diff, understand?? the little ball ends, and the peices the snap onto ball studs, where you can adjust your camber and stuff.
**with a flat head screw driver, put in in the drive cup coming from the diff, and tighten the diff screw. you will need to hold the left rear wheel while doing it. but tighten the diff screw all the way down (careful not to tighen too tight to break the nut inside the diff)
**put the CVD axel back in the drive cup, pop on the ball link, and put on the rear wheel. (this is how you tighten the diff, or at least the way i have done it)

The next is how you check to see if your slipper slips before the diff

After you have done that, with your right hand, hold the right rear tire, and with your right index finger, reach over, and grab the spur gear at the same time, so right finger on spur gear, and right hand on the right rear wheel. understand. basically holding at the same time.

Then, with your left hand, slowly try to turn the left rear wheel forward. be careful not to turn too hard, or you will strip the nut inside the diff.
**OK, if you feel like its too hard to turn, back off your slipper nut a little(the nut that you turn out 5 turns),
Then, hold the wheel and spur again, with your left hand, slowly try to turn the left rear wheel forward

repeat that process until the slipper pads, the big alum pieces on the spur gear, start to slip.

If the slipper pad slips too easy, on the first time you do it. then instead of loosening the nut, tighen the nut just a little. You want it to just slip right before the diff wants to.

dgrobe2112@netzero.com

[losiguy1090]

Ehhh, I'm a lil unsure of some of the things you said in there.

One, you said you tighten the diff screw down all the way? Thats too tight and makes it a Posi diff.

And two[this one is small but oh well], you dont have to pop off the ball link to adjust the diff. You can wedge a flathead or an allen wrench into the slot of the screw if you line it up. No dissasembly required.

[winning edge designs]

Good point losiguy, the diff bolt head is in the bottom of the outdrive cup. They will line up if you turn the left rear wheel(or right if you have your diff like the electric stuff, like I do) while using an allen key or small screwdirver to hold the diff bolt in the opposite outdrive at the same time, it will click into the slot when lined up, then it's ready for adjustment. Go 1/8th turn and reck the diff feel, once it gets to where it feels a little tight and not so silky your in the ballpark. This will be a good starting point and will allow for proper break in. Don't overtighten, this is a common mistake and could flatten diff balls, thrust bearings, notch the drive rings, etc.....Then you'll have to come on and post what a crummy diff you have, since you screwed it up and won't take the blame.............(a little pet peeve of mine)....Patience wins every time, so sneek up on the correct adjustment and then set the slipper as tight as you can without slipping the diff. This will net you a diff that will last a GOOD WHILE, i've worn out my outdrives before rebiulding the diff on several occassions..........Hope this helps, Jim

[losiguy1090]

What I do to set the slipper seems to help a lot. I put a mark w/ a pernament marker on the nut on the slipper on one of the sides. Then I do the slipper test while turning the wheel slow to see how far I need to turn it to get the nut to turn a full revolution. Then I'll turn it the same ammount really fast. The nut should turn the same ammount as it did when you turned the wheel slowly. Sorry if this sounds a lil confusing, buts its been working good for me. I've blown out a few diffs early, and I've currently got 1.5 gallons sitting on my current diff and it still hasnt needed any adjustments.

[dksu]

thanks guys i'll give it a try

[losifreak2004]

Jim - Isn't it a bummer to pull apart a smooth diff because the outdrives have pin-sized notches in them? Haha!

[winning edge designs]

Ya, tell me about it.....I'm almost ready for some new outdrives on this diff after about 2 gallons maybe?LOL........ttyl, Jim

[Handybugz]

has anybody tried to put the lst 2 speed in the losi xxxnt or do any of you guys think that the lst 2 speed would work with the xxx nt because all you guys know a 2 speed xxx would be the ish, just imagine an epic 18 motor with 2 speed tranny do you think any of you are up to it =]

[losifreak2004]

I had a pair of outdrives get so bad that the tire would move up and down when you blipped the throttle as the pin fell in and out of the notch.

bugz - As far as I know, there is no 2-speed that will work on the NT without major machine work, and the LST unit certainly won't. There really is no need for a 2-speed; a very common misconception about R/C 2-speed trannys is that they raise top speed, which is not the case. A 2-speed provides a shorter gear to help the car or truck accelerate more quickly, which is NEVER a problem with a 2wd gas truck that is properly tuned.

[evaderstman]

Hey losifreak how come your out drives notch so bad? On my nitro evader which has pretty much the same tranny design i have never notched the outdrives and looking at the two the evader outdrives may work for you and they are some kind of metal. Maybe the outdrives will work tn the xxx-nt too but it is just an idea i will try to test ti some time on xxx-ntman's truck and see if it will work.

[AreCee]

The outdrives notch out because the metal is softer than the drive pins on the bones. I've worn out more outdrives than diff gears since owning both the XXX-NT and XXX-T, it's just the way it is. On the plus side it gives you practice in diff rebuilding.

[AreCee]

Ok, when you buy a transmitter, it will most likely come with a receiver, unless you spend alot of money and get say an M8 without a receiver. If your lookin for a used radio, you may be able to get radio only.

However, most hitec receivers, are universals, meaning you can use them with any radio of the same band, and frequency.

What i mean by band, is, AM, FM, it will say on the receiver, 75mhz AM or 75mhz FM or 27mhz AM or 27mhz FM

You must get a radio witht he same band.

Next, you must get crystals, these are the pieces that plug into the receiver, and radio, they will match each other. Meaning, if you have a #66 crystal for your receiver, you must have a #66 crystal in your radio.

Depending on your band, you have different options of crystal channels to use.

75mhz FM or AM are on channel 61-90 that is 30 different channels
27mhz FM or AM are on channel 1-6 that is only 6 channels to choose from.Sorry but I needed to jump in here. Hitec does indeed make receivers to work with other brand of radios but to a point. They make receivers to work with Airtronics, JR and KO and other receivers to work with Hitec and Futaba. Only their newest receiver using IPD works on both signal shifts.

Remember that Hitec and Futaba use a negative shift.
Airtronics, JR and KO use a positive shift.

The best thing for him to do is to take the receiver to the LHS and look up the model number which should identify which shift the receiver is set up with and then he can get a matching radio. Or buy a new system.

[Handybugz]

i have 2 questions #1 i wanted to know if there are any mods i can make to help with the brakes on this truck i would like to be able to lock the brakes, #2 i wanted to if a Schumacher 3 speed would work i have heard of sombody putting one of tho0se in a gt :confused:

[losifreak2004]

The stock brakes will lock up just fine, you simply need to adjust them to do so.

I haven't heard of anyone using the Schumacher 3-speed. I don't see a reason for it, but if it works..more power to ya.

[JamminJay]

----- If 3 speed works..... more power to ya.....

Do ya think he meant that in a literal way. ha ha :D

[losiguy1090]

Do you have a radio w/ adjustable EPA? If so, just turn up the epa on the brakes if theyre not strong enough for you.

[Tim'sLosi]

You could also install a stronger servo such as a JR Z650M if adjustment does not do it for you.
3 speed...locked up brakes...what are you doing with this truck?? :eek:

[Handybugz]

ahh just havin a little fun heh he

[winning edge designs]

Hopefully your not trying to get the brakes to lock up on pavement? If you are, eventually the heat generated will melt your gear case and the threaded inserts will dislodge or at the very least end up crooked and loose.

I wouldn't worry about a 3 speed unless your just doing some bashing around in a parking lot, or field. In that case the schumacher truck may be better for you. The schumacher truck can carry an overgeared three speed set-up due to the .21 engine in a 1/10th truck.......For racing they are not on the same planet though, XXX-NT wins.........Jim

[Handybugz]

i just thought it would be hecka fun to have a epic 18 engine with a three speed or weven just a 2 cuz even with this very large motor 1 i really cant bang wheelies and my top speed is only about 45-47 mph with the 20 clutchbell on it i just want this ride to be super fast even though its a stadium truck =]

[losifreak2004]

A 3-speed or 2-speed won't make your truck any faster in top speed. It will give you a shorter first gear to help the truck accelerate more quickly.

If your truck won't wheelie, something in your tranny or carb isn't adjusted correctly.

[losiguy1090]

Or its just from running a 20 tooth CB ;)

[losifreak2004]

Yeah that could do it..haha

[losiguy1090]

I dont think any engine could wheelie with a 20 tooth, except maybe that new .18TZ from O.S. and pumps out 2.3 hp according to RCN's dyno. :eek:

[losifreak2004]

RCN's dyno doesn't mean much.

Now XRC's dyno..the one that actually DYNO'S the engine? Those are numbers I believe.

[losifreak2004]

Jim - The brakes NEED to lock up on pavement. If they're allowed to slip, that's when the brakes get hot, and start melting stuff. If they lock up, there's no heat buildup.

[losiguy1090]

Aaron, the way RCN dyno's engines is the way they used to dyno them a long time ago, from the flywheel. Only reason I go by their dynos is cuz I like their rightups a lot better than XRC's. I beleive thats how electric motors are dynoed too, with no load on the motor.

[losifreak2004]

To each his or her own, I like XRC's style and honesty.

Electric motors are dyno'd with a load, that's what the slave motor is for. All current R/C nitro engines until now have been a joke. The X-Dyno actually "dyno"'s the engine..

[winning edge designs]

Aaron, very true, but what actually happens when you "try" and lock them up, is they won't lock up, since the design isn't for pavement lock up of the brakes but rather for off-road use. This makes them overheat and melt...I know because I did it on pavement and l melted a case, then after backing off on the braking force for off-road use it never melted again, even though they never lock up.
I'm not sure about you, but I try to never have my brakes lock up, off-road, and they never melt, :)...........Jim

[losifreak2004]

That's the only thing I use my brakes for! Lock the rear tires up to get that thing to turn..haha.

(Well..and to get the front end down over jumps so I can land PUNCHED!)

[LoSick]

several months since my last posting when I installed my brande new then sirio evo 2 which I purchased at tower at $160. now that engine is 200, but includes the larger cooling head, anyway that engine ended up in my touring car (had to purchase the crankshaft and it´s a rocket). evo 2 is way too much engine, the drake is the must for the xxxnt. any good coments about this sirioengine. I´m leaning towards the $90 os 18cvr, ussing now the os 12 cv with mip rear stinger pipe (lots of power on that little engine)

[Racin Rev]

my computer is stuck posting stuff from 5 days ago. it has ceased to update when i go on. I sent an e mail to the webmaster with no reply or change. I am frustrated. It is like that on most of the threads. Would you all send them a message so that they realize that this is a real problem (i assume that you are still having the same problems) thanks.

[winning edge designs]

Ya, i'm really picky with my brakes and thier feel. I usually set them to just barely lock, or try to, for just the same reason, whipping the bee-otch around 180's, LOL!.....But I hate it when they feel grabby and lock up easily, too easy to end up facing the wrong way at the end of a straight, hahaha.....ttyl, Jim

[losifreak2004]

Rev - My comp is working fine?

Losick - It's not too much engine if you have the finger for it. The .18 CV-R makes wicked power and would probably run right with the Evo II, so if you're looking to tame down some wheelspin, that might not be the best route.

The Sirio motors are great in truck, both the Evo II and the Drake engine.

Jim - That's another reason why I rarely EVER use brakes!

[Racin Rev]

mine is too... today.

[Y2KGTP]

I asked this in Nitro forum, but this might be a better place....

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=187631

I removed the part in the photo, but the truck does not run well at all, have to keep it extremely rich to even do anything......has anyone else removed the pull start from a MACH .15 engine? Thanks

[losiguy1090]

If you have to run em that rich, its a good chance that you have an aiir leak.

[Y2KGTP]

If you have to run em that rich, its a good chance that you have an air leak.

That's what I was thinking.....I'll work on it this week, and see what I can do....


Also, general XXX-NT questions.....any good upgrades to do to a AD XXX-NT kit? Other than buying a AD2 kit :D I really don't see much on a AD2 kit to warrant a new kit purchase.....I don't need quick change tires......and the other items just seem to be minor geometry changes......(nothing I would probably notice myself..)

[AreCee]

Unless you're in that rare group of expert, and I mean really expert, drivers then you'll never notice the differences. Now if every lap you run is within .5 sec or less then maybe you'd notice the difference.

[Y2KGTP]

Unless you're in that rare group of expert, and I mean really expert, drivers then you'll never notice the differences. Now if every lap you run is within .5 sec or less then maybe you'd notice the difference.

Of course I am an expert driver, haven't you watched me at Leisure? My CEN .46 powered Tamiya Frog laps the 1/8 buggys all the time :D

[skat]

Have any of you used any GPM Racing parts they have Titanimum turn buckles with ball links and wanted to know if they are any good it is a direct fit.

[losiguy1090]

I'd stick w// lunsford for TI turnbuckles. All the other GPM stuff I've seen has been kinda cheapish looking.

[losifreak2004]

Whoa whoa whoa..only expert drivers will know the difference?

I think the group of drivers who will benefit the most due to the switch from the AD1 to the AD2 are those who haven't had enough practice to be considered an "expert" level driver. The new truck is MUCH more durable, way easier to drive, has a TON more rear traction, and is just a better overall package. A truck that is easier to drive and has more traction will make any driver, expert or not, faster around the track.

It's a truck for the masses, not just an elite few.

[dkj-M3]

just like A-dub said, it's easier to drive, more forgiving & has more rear traction than the AD1.

[AreCee]

OK, I'm sorry that I mentioned the word expert. I should have said that it is more durable and will allow average drivers to become better.

[winning edge designs]

Expert is a relative term anyhow, depends on whose is judging what an expert is. My kids think i'm an expert driver, LOL..........

The new truck is suppoed to be the best thing since sliced bread from what everypne who has driven it says. I'm looking forward to putting one thru it's paces soon.

"nobody beats me on my home track behind the house"................;), Jim

[losifreak2004]

It's not that using the word expert was the wrong term..it's just that every single person to pick up a radio will benefit from a truck with more traction.

[AreCee]

I race a lot and from my experience unless you can keep all your lap times within .5 seconds then the small improvements won't be all that noticable. However, if the truck does give better bite and traction then yes it will allow someone to improve their lap times if they stay off the boards and keep a line lap after lap.

[losifreak2004]

I disagree. An adjustment, for the better or worse, can be felt by anyone. The person may not be able to tell if the car was better or worse, or what change was done, but can nearly always tell that something was different.

Sure, someone who can't drive around the track without bouncing off of every pipe just to get the car turned may not know better, but anyone who can decently drive around a track should be able to feel any difference.

[winning edge designs]

My thoughts....I think there are different levels of drivers, even among the "Experts". I have had some racers tell me they feel a 1/4 turn on the shock adjusters, others have showed me they were running one rear shock in hole #3 and one in hole #2 on an A main run. They of course knew it seemed better in some turns then others, but was still driveable, finding the reason after thier race.

All have always said though that a new kit just about always feels better, even of the same type and model.....So something with more traction, more durability and more adjustability has to be better for everyone!..............The more durability part should be most important to drivers with lower skill levels........Jim

[losifreak2004]

I've never made ride height adjustments in anything smaller than 1/2 turns..hahaha

[winning edge designs]

Haha, i've never experimented with small adjustments. If I change springs, or rebiuld the shocks, etc. I just make sure my axles/dogbones are about level(Or the arms are, depending on the vehicle) and the front arms are level. I like a full turn if my car doesn't feel "right"......Done, LOL...........Jim

[losifreak2004]

hahahaha..."gimme a round of wedge, it's a little loose".

I usually don't make ANY adjustments once the races roll around, but what is testing for?

[winning edge designs]

TIRES!!!..........;), Jim

[losifreak2004]

Fine fine..I do change tires..hahaha

[dksu]

Hi, I've just bought a jr xs3 pro. I have a hitec 645 servo in my truck for steering. But my problem is the hitec 645 servo connector won't fit into the jr receiver. The servo connector (hitec) (the black part with Black/red/white) is too big for the receiver slot. What adapter do I need to plug my hitec servo into my new receiver? Can anyone please post a link ? thank you.

[losiguy1090]

I dont know of any adaptors. But you can cut off the old one and solder on a new one.

[dgrobe2112]

dont do that.. cuz you will have glitches.. if im not mistaken.. the connector has a little tab on the end.. like a futaba connector.. you can just cut that tab off.. and it should fit just fine..

[losifreak2004]

Grobe is right. Otherwise, you can return it to your LHS and get the other version of it, which will include the right plug.

[JamminJay]

dont do that.. cuz you will have glitches.. if im not mistaken.. the connector has a little tab on the end.. like a futaba connector.. you can just cut that tab off.. and it should fit just fine..


This is correct in his statement. The connector you have is called a futaba J plug, works only with futaba recievers "UNLESS" you cut off that little tab. The hitec servos with the yellow signal wire have the universal plug for Air,Hitec,JR, etc.

[losiguy1090]

Why will it cause glitching? I've resoldered connectors on servos w/out any problems.

[dksu]

I don't think it will fit even with the little tab cut. This is because the front part of the hitec servo is too big. The servo adapter is just to wide to even fit into my jr receiver slot. I can't even get it into the receiver slot. So my hitec servo is a old version? But i found a adapter on internet:


Will this work? http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=9145

[losifreak2004]

Who says the AD2 isn't tough?!

Two Losi-supported AD2 teams competed in this past weekend's Thunder Alley three-hour enduro and both finished with no problems. Team Losi's Trinity/Rossi-powered team of Todd Hodge, Lynn and Aaron Waldron, and Billy Easton, came back from a seven lap deficit to win by two seconds over Trinity/Sirio-powered Mike Bauer, Cody King, Jim Audi, and Jukka Steenari.

[losiguy1090]

Cool beans :cool:

[dgrobe2112]

congrats adub.. and everyone else from losi.. Aaron.. did you change your setup at all.. or did the same setup work for all drivers?? also.. what batts did yall use?

[losifreak2004]

Both teams ran Adam's normal setup for the AD2. All four of us were extremely comfortable with how the truck worked and loved how well it floated around the track..even my dad was super dialed! I was so proud of how he drove..really inspired me to drive my butt off and try to make up time after our little accident in the beginning of the race.

[losiguy1090]

What was this "incident" you speak of Aaron? :p

[dgrobe2112]

congrats again aaron..

[losifreak2004]

Grobe - Thanks again..sorry you read my spam :p

losiguy - We broke a turnbuckle after landing sideways off of a big jump, and lost almost 5 minutes replacing it.

[losiguy1090]

So the whole team was using one truck?

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. use one truck.. 4 drivers.. with 1 truck..

sorry i read your spam?? mi no comprende.. lol.. oh.. BTW.. i was lookin for the mag that you are in.. i cant seem to find it.. is it RC Car.. or what?

[losifreak2004]

Spam because I put the same message in all of the XXX-NT and AD2 threads..haha.

I'm in the Trinity fuel ad for all the the RCCA and XRC magazines between July? and December 2004, and I think my interview in R/C Car was the..August issue? Somewhere around there.

losiguy - Each of the drivers drove a 45 minute stint, with the same radio and same truck. We ran the Spektrum stuff in our M8 and it was DIALED.

[djgrom]

Does anybody have tips for getting the mach15 engine to tune right with the almost ready to run losi (I know I am sorry but i dont have much time as a college student to build my car so i bought my first pre built car :( ) So yeah i was just wondering if anyones knows any regular quirks on the mach 15, such as its normal operating temp, things it likes to do that you dont like to do....but yeah the xxxnt is amazing i have had the truck for about a week now and i love it to death

[JamminJay]

does anybody know the final output ratio of the drive line with the stock 51/18 gearing? thanks. O maybe a formula for the math too :confused:

[losifreak2004]

djgrom - It's pretty straight forward. Is there a particular problem you're having with it? Try to keep the engine between 200-240 and you'll be fine.

Jay - (51/18) x 4.11 = 11.645

[JamminJay]

ok thanx Losi.. but where did the 4.11 come from... I found nothing in the manual for the outdrive ratio.

[winning edge designs]

They used to talk about the tans ratio being 4.11:1 for a while, when the truck first came out. It was needed to get to a small enough spur to clear the rear suspension arm and still have it mounted low in the truck. Since everyone knows high spinning weight in the drivetrain is not the best for handling, :).....I have not found it anywhere lately myself, but remember it being a big deal during it's release.......Jim

[Y2KGTP]

Not to break the current conversation on Gear ratios, but I have a quick question on radio covers (the little plastic piece that protects the receiver)

I want to put an access cover so I can change frequency's easily on 2 of my trucks, and get to the synthesized adjusters for my 3rd truck.


I think I have read that some are using a rubber plug, after drilling a hole in the cover? Anything available at Home Depot\Menard's?

[JamminJay]

Y2kGTP:

Here is what I did to get to my synthesized reciever dials, works perfect. I got this idea, and copied this for you right off of Team Losi's website:

Find the Crystal; Want to change radio crystals without removing your receiver cover or cutting a big hole in it? Pick up a package of Team Losi #A-3244 4WD access plugs. Position the receiver with the crystal pointing out within the box created by the receiver cover. Cut a small rectangular opening 5/16” by 5/8” in the cover over the crystal and insert the rubber plug. Now when you need to change crystals all you need to do is remove the rubber plug. The receiver stays clean and dry.

[JamminJay]

BTW, thanks Losi and Winning Edge for the gear info. :D

[Y2KGTP]

Y2kGTP:

Here is what I did to get to my synthesized reciever dials, works perfect. I got this idea, and copied this for you right off of Team Losi's website:

Find the Crystal; Want to change radio crystals without removing your receiver cover or cutting a big hole in it? Pick up a package of Team Losi #A-3244 4WD access plugs. Position the receiver with the crystal pointing out within the box created by the receiver cover. Cut a small rectangular opening 5/16” by 5/8” in the cover over the crystal and insert the rubber plug. Now when you need to change crystals all you need to do is remove the rubber plug. The receiver stays clean and dry.

Thanks! This is what I was looking for.....

[dgrobe2112]

Get a spektrum system.. no need to change channels.. :)

[Y2KGTP]

Get a spektrum system.. no need to change channels.. :)

I'd buy one in a second, but my radio (MX3-S) is not module based....next radio for sure will be!

Or if they develop a spektrum only system, I'll get that.....hate to buy a radio just to chuck the tuner module ...

[losiguy1090]

The way I see it is, if everybody else gets the Spektrum system, and I'm the only one w/out it, I wont need to change channels very much either :p

[JamminJay]

Y2KGTP... Sorry I got a little busy today, but heres a pic of my Drake, as you can see how and where I placed the plug for the reciever box. I run the XS3 so its the RS300 reciever under there. problem with the hole itself, is you really have to zip tie your wires up good so they dont stick in the way. I was actually considering shorting them up, what do you guys think? The only down fall to that would be they would have to go with the truck if I ever sold it, as they may not be long enough for another vehicle after that.

[losiguy1090]

Hmmm, I'd say to try and use zip ties to tuck em on the other side of the reciever box. Cant realy think of any other good sollutions.

[dkj-M3]

i run mine around my rx box to keep them out the way

[dgrobe2112]

The way I see it is, if everybody else gets the Spektrum system, and I'm the only one w/out it, I wont need to change channels very much either :p

LMAO.. right..

[dksu]

I've just installed a brand new jr xs3 pro in my adam drake. My problem is that my steering servo will only turn fully in one direction. So I reversed it from transmitter and it would turn fully to the other side but not on the other. I've adjusted EPA, trim, subtrim, etc and still I can't get it to fix. So I thought maybe the servo is defect so I put in my other servo and still it is doing the same. Does brand new Jr xs3 pro need adjustment to fix this problem. Please help me, I spent last 4 hours trying everything and i"m about to faint. My blood pressure shot up to the sky. :mad:

[winning edge designs]

dksu, have you checked your dual rate settings? The transmitter comes at only 70% to start out.....It's the lower button from memoery on the handle, near the trigger. Once you push it the display will go to dual rate adjustment screen....get it up to 100% then recheck your end points.......Jim

[dgrobe2112]

you beat me too it Jim.. :)

[dksu]

are u referring to the lowermost button on the handle. one that goes vertically? BTW, what does dural rate adjustment do? What is it for? I'm a newbie. :)

dksu, have you checked your dual rate settings? The transmitter comes at only 70% to start out.....It's the lower button from memoery on the handle, near the trigger. Once you push it the display will go to dual rate adjustment screen....get it up to 100% then recheck your end points.......Jim

[losiguy1090]

Press the scroll and channel buttons located right under the screen on the radio at the same time. Then press scroll till you come to EPA settings. When you get to EPA, if its not on steering, press channel till it is. Then turn the wheel to the left, then to the right, make sure the EPA is the same on both sides, cuz it will let you adjust it in both directions.

[dkj-M3]

i run mine around my rx box to keep them out the way

I mean just around the rx, not the box

[dkj-M3]

make sure the servo horn is centered also.

[dgrobe2112]

actually.. if you look in the manual.. they have the servo horn offset to one side like / or \ cant remember which way though..

[losiguy1090]

If you look at it head on, the horn tilts /. like that.

[winning edge designs]

dksu, the two black buttons on the handle above the trigger area. One is for brake endpoint, one for dual rate.

Dual rate adjusts total throw for both sides at the same time, end point adjusts each side independently. NEVER adjust your end points without your dual rate at 100% first!

You can use these adjustments to tune your cars steering reaction. After the dual rate is at 100, check your throw by gently rturning the steering one way and adjusting the end point until it just bottoms on the stop, then the other way. Now you can use your dual rate to remove steering throw equally if your car is loose and hard to drive, or for on-road racing where you don't want to scrub speed in the turns by having more steering angle then you need...................Jim

[dgrobe2112]

ahh.. excellent info.. see.. even those who arent askin the questions.. learn something.. thanks jim..

[dksu]

thanks a bunch! :p

dksu, the two black buttons on the handle above the trigger area. One is for brake endpoint, one for dual rate.

Dual rate adjusts total throw for both sides at the same time, end point adjusts each side independently. NEVER adjust your end points without your dual rate at 100% first!

You can use these adjustments to tune your cars steering reaction. After the dual rate is at 100, check your throw by gently rturning the steering one way and adjusting the end point until it just bottoms on the stop, then the other way. Now you can use your dual rate to remove steering throw equally if your car is loose and hard to drive, or for on-road racing where you don't want to scrub speed in the turns by having more steering angle then you need...................Jim

[dksu]

I just bought Energizer 2400 nimh rechargeable batteries (Double A's). They are rated at 1.2V. If I use this battery for my transmitter, will I get weaker signal as opposed to using 1.5V standard non rechargeable double A's? This is because with rechargeable, I will only have 9.6V?

Another Q:

When you guys charge your 6V nimh receiver packs, at what current and delta peak do you charge them? I have mrc 959. When the charge is complete, it goes into trickle charge. Is it okay to charge "more" with tricle charge or is it bad to trickle a nimh? thanks a bunch! :)

[losiguy1090]

I have a 969 but my manual reccomended 2 amps. I've been using that for about 2 years w/ the same battery packs and have had zero problems.
I charge packs at
2 amps
1100 mah[depends on the pack
25 MV
and leave the charge time alone. And when the charge is complete, I just take the battery off, because NIMH batts dont like to be over charged like NICD's do.

[dgrobe2112]

you charge your receiver pack at 2 amps.. wow..

I dont know i thought that AA alkalines are 1.2 also..

[dkj-M3]

make a 5 cell pack, instead of using 4. that will get you up to 6V. charge it at .5-1 amp with a 20-25mV cut-off. the lower the Amps the longer the pack will last. Do not trickle charge them, when they peak, take them off the charger.

[losifreak2004]

Alkalines are 1.5 volts, rechargeables are 1.2.

[Y2KGTP]

Alkalines are 1.5 volts, rechargeables are 1.2.

True, but my radio displays 11.6 or so when they are fully charged....I'm using 2300nimh rechargables.....bonus voltage, I guess..... :D

[dksu]

when your 1100 nimh is almost discharged, how long does it take to fully charge on 969?

I have a 969 but my manual reccomended 2 amps. I've been using that for about 2 years w/ the same battery packs and have had zero problems.
I charge packs at
2 amps
1100 mah[depends on the pack
25 MV
and leave the charge time alone. And when the charge is complete, I just take the battery off, because NIMH batts dont like to be over charged like NICD's do.

[losiguy1090]

Hmmm, I wanna say around 20 minutes? But I've been using the same pack for about 2 years w/ no problems.

Dgrobe, thats what most people say. But it works just fine.

[winning edge designs]

dksu, I have an opinion on the batteries, I use rechargeables, even though they are slightly lower in voltage, they stay in the middle or partially discharged state longer then non recharge cells. Fresh AA'a will put out a little more signal strength, but well within the limits of the radio with either battery....Rechargeables are WAY cheaper long run.

I charge my receiver battery and radio battery at 1.0 amp or less with a .024 cutoff using a Novak Millenium Pro charger....Tricke charging is ok with packs that won't need alot of punch and runtime is a bigger concern....................Jim

[Got Speed]

I'm finally back. I've been too busy to race for the last 6 months. I've finally got the time to start racing again. I'm going out to the nitro challenge next week. Anyone here racing that?

[Saboteur]

Anyone running the AD2? I dunno if I should get that or just run the Sport. Been wondering since the AD2 was made to be more durable if its still weaker than the sport NT for just a few small jumps around the field, parking lot, etc.

BTW, anyone going to the WRAM show next weekend?

[losifreak2004]

Got Speed - Hell yeah I'm racing the Nitro Challenge! Hit me up while you're there..just look for the kid in the Trinity/TL shirt with spiky hair. Can't miss me.

[losiguy1090]

Sab, thats the same weekend of the Nitro Challenge. It would probably be a good day to go up there though.

[evaderstman]

Gotspeed you really won't have much trouble finding losifreak i saw a pic of him in rcca and with his hair he should stick out pretty well. And also i have a question for you guys my nieghbors brake disk just disappeared on him one day, and he bought the full rebiuld kit for it. Now i was helping fix it and there are these two clips called brake linkage clips or something to that nature that screw on and hold the linkge in place. Now the problem both his clips were broke and they say in the manuel that the only way to buy them is with the transmission case. Does anyone know where to buy these seperatly or have a part number for them? Anyway thanks for any help you can give us.

[losiguy1090]

Same thing happened to me one time, but I've never broken clips. Trinity sells some alluminum ones.

I checked a few websites and couldnt find em, but your LHS should have em, or be able to order em.

[Saboteur]

It's the same weekend? Darn. Well I can't go there :(. Rather go to the show and have a grand time there :)

[dgrobe2112]

sabot.. the drake2 is very nice. amrs and everything are alot tougher.. the truck is alot faster.. my lap times are up alot and more consistant..

[Saboteur]

Cool. I like what I'm hearing. Maybe I should sell the Sport then. :)

[losiguy1090]

Or, you can also upgrade the suspension parts.

[dgrobe2112]

in order to upgrade a xxxnt, to a drake2 truck.. it will take alot.. it would be alot easier to just buy the drake.. and selll your truck.. thats what i did.. came out about the same..

[losifreak2004]

evader - Losi sells hard-anodized aluminum clips, part number A-9412. I don't know what the part number for the Trinity blue ones are.

You're right..no one ever has a problem picking me out of a crowd..haha.

saboteur - What's stopping you from making an appearance at the Nitro Challenge? It's a GREAT race to come watch!

[Saboteur]

Well my Bro in law will have things to do after the show, therefore I won't have any other way to get up there. I'll wait for the results then :(.

[Got Speed]

losifreak do you know if they have been rained or is every thing still good? As long as everything is fine I'll be leaving tommorow morning from Phx. See you there. I'll be the kid with the horrible driving skills since I havn't raced it for 6 months. lol

[losifreak2004]

Practice has been cancelled completely, but the race itself is rain or shine. If they go by IFMAR rules, there must be six inches of standing water for the race to be cancelled..and Joey has a few pumps, so that's not going to happen.

Bring stuff to waterproof your car and radio, and get ready to get messy!

[winning edge designs]

Yikes!..good luck to the corner marshalls!.........................You too Aaron, Jim

[Casper]

6" of standing water to cancel the race! I am sorry but a 2wd stadium truck will not go through loose dirt with 1" of standing water! I am getting all the nightmares back from the Sidewinder 2 years ago! Blown clutches no traction and a day of waiting! :(

[djgrom]

There could just be mud bogging races :)

[evaderstman]

You guys are going to have to clean something like this. And that doesn't even show the worst of it.

[evaderstman]

Also we found that when it was muddy there we found that gladiators worked very well and gave good traction.

[XXXNTMAN]

ya thats what i had on my car when i went with him and they worked awesome in the mud just stay out of puddles cuz thats what i did and i had to kinda sorta take my car apart to clean it and itz still dirty but my car went through a couple of puddles and it didn't look good after it got home

[djgrom]

wheres the second part of your filter ?

[evaderstman]

That is the whole filter it is a nitro evader not a xxx-nt i was just showing it so you could see how much fun the mud is.

[winning edge designs]

evaderstman, he is asking because they make an outer sock for the main filter, to prolong it's life, like on an 1/8th scale. It is available for any brand of truck, or buggy.........Jim

[losifreak2004]

Turns out the track was beautiful for the start of qualifying. We ended up watering the track after race three or four!

[Saboteur]

Sounds good. Who from the thread here went?

[Casper]

I was there. Ended up CQ in open truck and bumped to the B. Ended up 8th in the B but with a 15 min C and a 20 min B I got my money's worth! :) It was a great race.

[losifreak2004]

I was there..top Pro Truck driver not to make the main! Haha

My buggy ran great all weekend, I just need a little more experience racing 1/8th scale buggy...I'll be ready for Silver State!

[dgrobe2112]

AW.. what buggy you running.. moogen??

[losifreak2004]

No no no..Trinity/Sirio-powered Jammin' X-1 CR!

[winning edge designs]

I noticed the top three were 777's........

Tebo won both classes too, wow...that kid is fast, even with a truck that was designed in 1957, LOL(inside joke)..................:), Jim

[losifreak2004]

I swear he's a robot.

[losiguy1090]

Thats the one driver Losi doesnt have, that we NEED! :D

[winning edge designs]

I have had some locals give me a hard time about the "old GT" beating the XXX-NT, even though Pavidas and Easton were also running XXX-NT AD2's now.

Funny thing is Tebo also won last year when those guys were running the same GT as he was.....switching before a race wouldn't make it easier to beat someone who beat you last time.......Well, not automatically anyhow, LOL.

Anyone with any sense now can look at both trucks and see how important the driver is, also the fact that he had a problem free main event to beat such a great truck.......Also, the GT is apparently still "good enough"............Jason Ruona won a state series race with a 91' RC10T in Daytona a few months back, against the XXXT's and the T4's, btw...........LOL, Jim

[CK9887]

Maybe someone can help me out here....

Are there any differences in the trannys between the xxx-nt and the xxx-nt drake edition?
Also, was anything changed with the new xxx-nt sport? besides upgrading to the .15?

[winning edge designs]

CK ,the trannies are the same, except the AD2 comes with the aluminum topshaft included and there are a few upgraded diff items, like thrust assembly and more washers for the diff (springs).

I have been told the new sport has a few new features, wheels are different, the engine is obviously improved, as well as the pipe. The truck comes with the Fury body now, with new graphics, it also uses a spin start system rather then a fragile pull cord to start the engine.................Sounds like quite a few new things......Jim

[xxx-ntracer]

Does anyone know where I can get a non pull start back plate for my mach 15 in my xxx-nt

[Saboteur]

Dunno bout you, but I'm ditching my Mach .15. Gonna find myself an RB X12 and drake pipe for my Sport NT RTR when it comes in :cool:. Shoulda did this from the start instead of buying the 8th buggy or MGT.

[xxx-ntracer]

I have a .12 os on it right now but I just want to use my mach as a back up motor and wanted to put the non pull backplate on it

[losiguy1090]

Sab, you can get an MT12 at www.nitrohouse.com which is the same engine.

[Y2KGTP]

I'm not too happy with the running performance\tuning of the MACH .15 engine that comes with XXX-NT RTR, 1st editions.....I was curious on if a Ofna .26 shaftstart would mount\line up correctly (I have a jammin RTR with this engine)

figure it might make a good basher combo....

[jdm3849]

A .26 will definitely not line up, or even fit, if you try to bolt it in there.

The Mach is a good motor, should make good power if tuned properly.

If you did get a .26 to fit in there, many things would break on the R/C, because it was not designed to handle that extra power/weight.

[racinlosi]

Would the spindles/carriers on the xxx-nt fit into the GTX? Also, would the CDV's work from the xxx-nt on the GTX also?

[Casper]

I think the CVD's would be too long. The XXX-NT uses longer arms and drive shafts then the GTX. I am not sure about the front carriers. It is has to do with the spacing of the arms. I think they might fit but there offset may be different which would probably change the overall width of the car.

[racinlosi]

Would it change it good or bad wise? And is it ok if I ask the questions about the GTX here? I don't really think there is a GTX thread for me to ask question. :(

[Casper]

It might make the truck too wide to be legal but again I just do not know. I have not seen a GTX in a really long time so I do not have a good picture in my mind of all the suspension parts. There should be some else around here that may be able to help more.

[racinlosi]

Picture#1 (http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=33964)
Picture#2 (http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=33963)

That is what my GTX looks like as of now.

[skat]

who makes the best battery for the xxxnt I am tired of breaking them I had one break last weekend and I did not get the chance to break it myself a kid that races with us broke it off by picking it up by the battery box. I have had enough of this.
THANKS
SKAT

[dkj-M3]

you want this:

http://www.dacemfg.com/Store_Detail.cfm?ID=111181&InfoID=2293

[winning edge designs]

Skat, the new battery box on the NT2 is improved, both in design and materials. But extra bracing can't hurt if you are hard on your truck. Just be careful it doesn't trnasfer the breakage to a different area instead of an inexpensive and easy to replace battery box......., Jim

[Casper]

There are some ebay sales for a plate that bolts to the underside of the truck that extends to the rear battery box also. The new battery box is supposed to be much better then the old and is a direct replacement. The new reciever box with the pressure line holder is pretty cool also.

[racing05]

i have never had a prob with my batt box on my XXXNT braking i have seen people who have went to a Alum one. As for the GTX lmk if you need any thing for it i have lots of parts for them

[racinlosi]

i have never had a prob with my batt box on my XXXNT braking i have seen people who have went to a Alum one. As for the GTX lmk if you need any thing for it i have lots of parts for them

Sounds awesome! Right now I just bought some xxx-nt parts to try and get fitted to it(look similar). But if they don't work, I will let you know(I am sure I will somewhere down the line for the parts anyways) when. Thanks for letting me know!

[Y2KGTP]

I would like to convert 2 of my XXX-NT RTR's (1st edition, pull start model) to Roto-starts. What backplate would I need? I prefer to have a ofna style dogbone if possible, to eliminate the need for multiple starter types.

I have a Losi XXX-NT starter box, but it just does not seem to have the torque to turn over the engines....it is powered by a 12v gel-cell.

Ideas?

[Saboteur]

What engine are you trying to turn over? Are you sure that the rubber wheel is lined up with the flywheel? Is the batt fully charged? My dual motor starter box starts up even the toughest engines. Single motors dont provided any more torque; just RPM.

[Y2KGTP]

What engine are you trying to turn over? Are you sure that the rubber wheel is lined up with the flywheel? Is the batt fully charged? My dual motor starter box starts up even the toughest engines. Single motors don't provided any more torque; just RPM.

This is a dual motor, with a 12v gel cell.

Yes, the battery is fully charged. It is the starter box designed for the XXX-NT's by Losi. I am thinking the box does not line up properly, as half the wheel is starting to wear down.

Anyways, I would like to switch to roto-starts, as my 2 boys are constantly battling over who gets to start their truck first, so I just want to switch to roto-start backplates. Besides, I can use a corded power drill when running around the house, and that will NEVER die on me, or not turn the engine over :D

[Saboteur]

Ahh Ic. Lol.

[dkj-M3]

the rubber wheel will wear down a little cause it hits the chassi, doesn't take long though, after that you should have no problems with it.

[skat]

does any one have the part # for the battrey box on the xxxnt2 and what is the best online hobby shop for TEAM LOSI my LHS hates Losi does not know a good truck when he sees one

[JamminJay]

Personally I like NitroHouse... ( www.NitroHouse.com ) friendly service & fast shipping.... I would call them tho, I checked the site and the battery box # they have listed is the same as the AD1 #4030, maybe it's the same number but newer, not sure, anyway check them out.

[skat]

thank you and I hope there shipping is fast all the way to FL.

[Y2KGTP]

what is the best on-line hobby shop for TEAM LOSI my LHS hates Losi does not know a good truck when he sees one

My guess is that they can't\won't purchase from Horizon Hobby, the distributor for Losi.......

[dgrobe2112]

I think the battery box was just a running fix.. they updated the box for the AD2, and instead of keeping 2 boxes around.. they just updated the current one..

[JamminJay]

O Ok thanks for clearing that up DG.....

[winning edge designs]

Skat, if your in Florida, have you checked with Superior hobbies? They have a website under the same name.

There are only two reasons for a "hobby shop" to not carry TeamLosi products.
1) They Love A/E and want all thier customers to run only A/E products. This isn't the smartest business decision, since competition would sell them MORE kits and parts.
2) They don't qualify for the Horizon dealer status, requiring a legitamate store front and a minimum start up purchase. This protects the thousands of legitimate stores from guys selling R/C stuff out of thier moms buick with no overhead...They have nothing against the guys with the Buick set-up, but need to protect the dealers who are the vast majority of thier sales anyway and they can't sell an item they paid $79 for from Horizon for $81 to the customer like the buick guy could.

If I sound like a guy who had a hobby shop that failed, tada!!!...LOL, If all the distributors did this i'd still be in that business.....Jim

[skat]

His opion of Losi is that it is garbage and does not want it around not bright HE has a good store front

[Got Speed]

I ended up burning up my video card in my computer right before I left. It took me two weeks to get it fixed after getting back so I couldn't post back. Anyway...

Saboteur- I ended up going out to the Nitro Challenge. Fortuanatly the weather was great the whole time except the trip out there. Very unfortuanatly for me though the weather the day before canceled practice. So the first practice I had in about 4 months was my first qualifier. Needless to say it was a bit rough. Only ended up first in the E but it was still great fun.

It was kind of funny how there was mud everywhere in the first qualifier but by the second they were watering the track. lol

[winning edge designs]

Skat, I guess there are still a few TL haters, most don't realize they would still be driving a gold tub RC10 if A/E didn't have the competition?

Even the biggest A/E fan is thankful for TeamLosi if they are smart and vice versa, no competition, no improvements...............Jim

[Saboteur]

Saboteur- I ended up going out to the Nitro Challenge. Fortuanatly the weather was great the whole time except the trip out there. Very unfortuanatly for me though the weather the day before canceled practice. So the first practice I had in about 4 months was my first qualifier. Needless to say it was a bit rough. Only ended up first in the E but it was still great fun.

It was kind of funny how there was mud everywhere in the first qualifier but by the second they were watering the track. lol

LOL. When I get my car I'll be able to make it to other tracks, but not the ones way over in CA though :(. I'm in NY.

[losiguy1090]

Jim, could'nt have said it better myself.... you probably knew that ;) :p

[Y2KGTP]

I would like to convert 2 of my XXX-NT RTR's (1st edition, pull start model) to Roto-starts. What backplate would I need? I prefer to have a ofna style dogbone if possible, to eliminate the need for multiple starter types.

I have a Losi XXX-NT starter box, but it just does not seem to have the torque to turn over the engines....it is powered by a 12v gel-cell.

Ideas?

Ideas? It's a dynamite .15....anything compatable for a roto-start backplate?

[Saboteur]

I'm just racing on a homemade track, but does anyone think the OS .18cvrx will be ok with the stock ball diff? I know I can get something less powerful, but not sure. They are offering me the X12 slide carb std crankshaft for $160, but I can get the .18cvr-x slide std crank w/PS for $110.

[racinlosi]

Hey, in the rear hubs, should there be any space for it to move back and forth? Cause for the GTX, they ended up the rear are small for the real, and the ones up front are too big for the front. I can make spacers for the rear if needed, and I am already shaving a little off the front xxx-nt front cariers to make it work. Pics soon.

[Casper]

All modern losi cars have shims in the rear hubs to allow wheel base adjustment if needed.

[losiguy1090]

Y2K, If your running a non pullstart backplate, you would have to get a pullstart backplate as well as another crankshaft because when you put on the non ps backplate, you shave that lil stub off the end of the crankshaft, correct?

If you still want to go with this option, you just need a pullstart backplate for the rotostart to fit. Then all you need to do is buy the rotostart system which comes with the rotostart housing which bolts to the backplate, and the rotostart itself.

[winning edge designs]

Aaron, haha...

Saboteur, If the .18 will bolt in ok, then the diff will handle it, just be sure to follow the golden rule.......If the slipper slips first, the diff will live.

But....I feel compelled to tell you about the problems your getting into using an engine that big and powerful in a 2wd 1/10th scale truck. Even though some guys will tell you how awesome they drive and could handle a .70 in a gas truck, in reality, all your getting is less fuel mileage, more headaches and more difficult to control.

Trust me when I say i've seen the schumacher 1/10th stadium truck with a .21 and 3 speed in it, at the wheel was a worlds A main level driver, who repeatedly blew it over backwards at 50 or 60...or maybe 70 mph? We had a ton of fun pointing and laughing, but everyone who drove it, or even saw it, knew it would be the worst possible set-up for racing.....Of course this is on the street, on dirt all it would do was donuts and spin the tires in EVERY gear, in fact we blew by it with our .12 powered trucks...............O.S. .12CV-R, at $110, or even a CV is less then $90............Jim

[Y2KGTP]

Y2K, If your running a non pullstart backplate, you would have to get a pullstart backplate as well as another crankshaft because when you put on the non ps backplate, you shave that lil stub off the end of the crankshaft, correct?

If you still want to go with this option, you just need a pullstart backplate for the rotostart to fit. Then all you need to do is buy the rotostart system which comes with the rotostart housing which bolts to the backplate, and the rotostart itself.

I never did get the backplates, so i just need the roto-start backplates....but does Ofna make one that fits?

[losiguy1090]

Not sure on the Ofna's, sorry. I'd try checking on Tower or Ofna's site to see if they do.

[Saboteur]

Aaron, haha...

Saboteur, If the .18 will bolt in ok, then the diff will handle it, just be sure to follow the golden rule.......If the slipper slips first, the diff will live.

But....I feel compelled to tell you about the problems your getting into using an engine that big and powerful in a 2wd 1/10th scale truck. Even though some guys will tell you how awesome they drive and could handle a .70 in a gas truck, in reality, all your getting is less fuel mileage, more headaches and more difficult to control.

Trust me when I say i've seen the schumacher 1/10th stadium truck with a .21 and 3 speed in it, at the wheel was a worlds A main level driver, who repeatedly blew it over backwards at 50 or 60...or maybe 70 mph? We had a ton of fun pointing and laughing, but everyone who drove it, or even saw it, knew it would be the worst possible set-up for racing.....Of course this is on the street, on dirt all it would do was donuts and spin the tires in EVERY gear, in fact we blew by it with our .12 powered trucks...............O.S. .12CV-R, at $110, or even a CV is less then $90............Jim

Sounds good, but it's for messing around. BTW the engine isn't that big. It fits in the same spot as a .12. I know it's quite powerful, but so is the RB X12. I'll think bout it for later on.

[winning edge designs]

Saboteur, OK, I just assumed it was about the same as the new O.S. that alot of guys are racing in thier Revo's? Maybe it's more of a sport model engine then? The Revo guys are pulling big wheelies and clearing jumps the 1/8th buggies do with the new O.S. .18 racing engines, that one is NOT for a 2wd 1/10th truck, LOL..................Have fun either way!, Jim

[JamminJay]

Seems as tho lately, I have been braking ball studs left and right... I'm not a great driver, but I'm no hack or kamikazeee either. c'mon I mean a little rub against a pipe and snap..... do any of you run TI studs? would those break? I know some people run captured ball ends? If you run these what are your inputs? can you send me a link to anything to try and help thanx. Also if you need to know I run Lunsfords w/ RPM cups, Thanx

[Casper]

I swear by titnium ball studs. Run the for the front nose plate the rear shock tower and the rear hubs. These are the most common breaking ball studs. I run steel everywhere else since the ti ones are $9.00 a pair and I have never broken any of the other ball studs. The Losi white ball cups work really well or the losi RTR ball cups if you want to upgrade to the superduty lunsford tierods.

[JamminJay]

Yea thats all I have broken too. I havent ever broke any in the steering saver or w/e you wanna call it. I have broken any of the 6 up front [tower, bulkhead, and the front of the front carriers] and then the 4 in the back [bulkhead & carriers] I've also broke a bunch just trying to screw them into the graphite. And i even use vaseline to help them thread in easier.

[Shakedown]

Change all the camber links ends to DUBRO's Monster Links. Just buy the 12 pack(part #2318) so you will have four extra ends for spares. The 4-40 screws that come with them are alot stronger than the threaded section on the stock ball studs. You may have to ream out the ends out with a 3mm bit so that the turnbuckles will screw in easier.

[losiguy1090]

I run captured ends, and the only place you need to put em is on the camber links. Dont need em on the steering; 1 because its hard to find a screw that will clear and 2 because its pretty dam hard to pop a steering link.

[Saboteur]

Saboteur, OK, I just assumed it was about the same as the new O.S. that alot of guys are racing in thier Revo's? Maybe it's more of a sport model engine then? The Revo guys are pulling big wheelies and clearing jumps the 1/8th buggies do with the new O.S. .18 racing engines, that one is NOT for a 2wd 1/10th truck, LOL..................Have fun either way!, Jim

Nooo, thats the OS .18TZ. :)There's the OS .18cvrx (side exhaust 1.6HP@32kRPM) the OS .18TM(tmaxx engine 1.8HP) and the OS .18TZ(2.28HP@33kRPM). I wanted the CVRX. :) Just thought I'd try to keep the $$ low for now, and run the ST a bit. Just need another pair of JR servos for steering and throttle and a new rear set of tires. The rear wheels wobble when spun, so I'm assuming that peg has worn the hubs a bit. I do see another imprint as well so it may be slipping when I tighten the screw and cause it to be unbalanced. I'll post a pic of my ride with new body and gear.

[JamminJay]

Thankx Shake and Losi.... will the captured ends be a direct replacememnt and work with the Lunsford Ti rods I have?

[losiguy1090]

If you have the long ball cups, they should go right in. Worse comes to worse, you can use a cut off wheel and shave em down a lil.

[Saboteur]

How many people are switching over to the AD2? Just wanted a survey since I may be living here for a bit longer, so there is a chance to go to Barnstormers.

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- I'm going to switch over to the AD2 soon. I'm just going to replace the parts on my old AD1. I don't have the money to buy the whole kit right now and theres nothing really wrong with the AD1.

Has anyone had any problems with the quick change AD2 wheels?

[losiguy1090]

Sab, I'm actually selling my NT. I just bought a BK2 and I'm selling the NT so I can buy electronics for the BK2. Decided it would be nice to have one electric, and one nitro ;)

If anyone is interested, shoot me an email or private message.

[Laterilus]

I'm sure this question has probably been asked before, but can anyone quickly answer if the old wheels can be adapted to the new AD2 without modifications or extra parts to buy? Almost every mag. review has mentioned that the extra axles included allow you to put on the old wheels, but after looking at these 'old' axles that are included in the new kit, it doesn't appear if the old wheels can be used with them. It just looks like you can use the new wheels with nuts instead of using the quick change method. Anyways, this is a huge deterent for me for getting the new truck, let alone I see people constantly busting rear A-arms and stripping those little screws out of the rear Al. hubs. I'll stick with the old truck for awhile. I can't really tell any handling difference between the two trucks and I like being able to buy the flexable plastic pieces instead of constantly breaking the graphite pieces.