Team Losi XXXNT forum v9.0

[Saboteur]

Sab, I'm actually selling my NT. I just bought a BK2 and I'm selling the NT so I can buy electronics for the BK2. Decided it would be nice to have one electric, and one nitro ;)

If anyone is interested, shoot me an email or private message.

Are ya running the MT12? I think it was you or someone else. If anything I may just get the RB for the NT and leave the MT in my R40.

[dgrobe2112]

Allrighty..

JamminJay.. i run captured ends in the rear inside on the toewer.. thats it.. no where else.. i also had to do some cutting on the ball link that attaches to the rear hubs.. cuz at full compression of the rear, the ball cup hits the hub.. there is a ( curved cutout on the ball cup.. . that all i did was extend.. a little to clear the rear hub.. and you only need to do this if you are running in the center.. hole or farthest hole close to the wheel.. you know what im sayin.. if you get on AIM.. i can explain it better..

[dgrobe2112]

I'm sure this question has probably been asked before, but can anyone quickly answer if the old wheels can be adapted to the new AD2 without modifications or extra parts to buy? Almost every mag. review has mentioned that the extra axles included allow you to put on the old wheels, but after looking at these 'old' axles that are included in the new kit, it doesn't appear if the old wheels can be used with them. It just looks like you can use the new wheels with nuts instead of using the quick change method. Anyways, this is a huge deterent for me for getting the new truck, let alone I see people constantly busting rear A-arms and stripping those little screws out of the rear Al. hubs. I'll stick with the old truck for awhile. I can't really tell any handling difference between the two trucks and I like being able to buy the flexable plastic pieces instead of constantly breaking the graphite pieces.

The current drake1 wheels can not be used on the new truck, no way to do it.. unless you use the old stuff.. like old hubs, and old axels.. then there would be no reason to update to the new truck.. You are correct about it allows you to use nuts instead

[Casper]

No you cannot use the old wheels. The extra axles allow you to use nuts instead of the quick release system for attaching the wheels. Both systems use a hex to attach the rear wheel to the axle which requires the new wheels to be used. The new and old wheels are NOT interchangable. The good news in the new wheels can be used in the front or the back of the car. This gives you some more tuning options for front wheels and also allows you to just stock up on wheels that can be used for front or rear tires!

[halomachine]

i bought a xxx-nt sport rtr2 a few weeks ago and have only gotten the truck running on two weekends. my problem is with the roto-start on the mach 15RE engine: first it would grab and and lock up as i was trying to start the engine, and now it seems to be completely stripped and the engine won't turn over at all. anyone know of a conversion kit for this engine to convert it to a pull-start or bump-start?

[Tim'sLosi]

i bought a xxx-nt sport rtr2 a few weeks ago and have only gotten the truck running on two weekends. my problem is with the roto-start on the mach 15RE engine: first it would grab and and lock up as i was trying to start the engine, and now it seems to be completely stripped and the engine won't turn over at all. anyone know of a conversion kit for this engine to convert it to a pull-start or bump-start?

Sounds like the one-way is slipping. If the roto catches once in a while and spins the engine you need to remove the roto backplate and clean the one-way with some denatured alcohol or nitro engine spray.

[dgrobe2112]

The current drake1 wheels can not be used on the new truck, no way to do it.. unless you use the old stuff.. like old hubs, and old axels.. then there would be no reason to update to the new truck.. You are correct about it allows you to use nuts instead

Also, i dont know about the breaking of the rear arms.. and all that.. the new rear arms are alot tougher than the old ones.. alot.. and the new rear pivot block is beefier also.. and stripping screws.. i know that the stock screws were backing out.. and some people have been using longer ones.. but i have not heard of anyone stripping them..

[halomachine]

Sounds like the one-way is slipping. If the roto catches once in a while and spins the engine you need to remove the roto backplate and clean the one-way with some denatured alcohol or nitro engine spray.

thanks for the advice. i opened up the spin start to try that, and lo and behold the one-way bearing/socket assembly is in three pieces. the socket has an attractive spiral break in three places and fell apart. the manual for this truck doesn't mention spin-start or have any parts listings, and both the dynamite and horizon hobby websites don't mention them either. back to square one. any more help anyone??

[losiguy1090]

Sounds like you may have been trying to start the engine while it was flooded. Try taking out the glow plug, and turn the car upside down, and crank over the engine for a couple seconds.

[winning edge designs]

Got Speed, no, in fact the new AD2 wheels are more durable and don't get a wobble after banging into some pipes, etc. Since they did away with the small roll pin area in the wheel, the problem of wobbly wheels is gone too(the wobble came from the wheel being distorted there).

Laterilus, The "adapters" that come with the AD2 are to bolt on the rear wheels, rather then use the quick clip. The magazines have been wrong in assuming the adapters were for the old wheels.

Don't be discouraged by new wheels, especially when you can buy 5 pairs for a race and use them as you need, 5 rear or 4 rear, 1 front or 3 rear, 2 front...........With the old wheels you would need 5 of each style just in case. That may not help if you run old tires alot, but most racers save them in a box and rarely if ever actually use them.
I know that is how I do it, :). I use my premounts in electric.....someday?

Durability, i'm not quite at 4 hours on my truck and there hasn't been a single broken part. I did have some broken rear hubs with the old truck though. Also had a couple rear hub bearings go out. Those problems have both been fixed on the AD2(NT2). The rear hubs don't "strip", the biulder is responsible for cleaning the aluminum parts and using good thread lock on them, in fact some are using longer bolts and mini nuts inside when running the shorter arm set up.

One things for sure, nothing is perfect, i've learned that after having 5 different 1/8th scales, 7 different monster trucks, 4 different gas trucks and countless electric trucks and buggies from EVERY manufacturer the last 20 years..........:)........But, the AD2 is BY FAR, the best gas truck available!.......Jim

[Laterilus]

W.E.D., I will agree with you that the AD2 is by far the best gas truck out there right now... but only to a certain extent. In some cases (i.e. mine) I just don't see the reason for any sort of upgrade. I only agree the AD2 is the best since the platform is virtually the same as the AD1 with what only some would consider to be upgrades. Of all the upgrades made, the only one that sticks out as being a worthwhile upgrade was the new chassis. That's it. The others I could personally do without. I can see how they may help some people, but they aren't enough of a reason for me to change cars right now.
Let's go through the main upgrades, shall we? interchangeable front/rear wheels. Novel concept. Should've been done years ago, but appreciated none the less, however, I rarely put rear tires on the front (i.e. holeshots, bow-ties, taper pins) for that perfectly blue-grooved track. If you are at a track that is blue-grooved most of the time, more power to ya. I see a blue-grooved track twice a year. 25$ for a set of rear tires on front rims for two races a year won't kill me... especially since I'm going on the same set for 3 years now! Also, my lap times marginally change from using rear tires on the front, and I really have to be on my game to see the difference. Secondly, the quick change part. Until gas truck A-mains get to the point where changing tires in a race is commonplace, I don't need the small convience of quickly changing my tires for quick practicing purposes. I do however see how others would like this benefit. Lastly, I've seen the new Losi wheels still bending. NOT as bad as the originals I can assure you (good job with that Losi) but they still aren't as strong as the TRC wheels for the orginal NT. Those are my faves. I don't like it that I would also have to spend an additional 4$ per set of tires for that black insert thingy as well! I would also hate to lose all my tires I've acquired for my AD1 over time.
Beefier arms: Good job on Losi's part... still break much more easily than the stock plastic arms and are much more expensive. I prefer finishing my races over the small wieght gains and stiffness of the graphite. That is just for me though and once again, I understand why others would like the graphite... but know this, at my personal home track where there are many good drivers I've seen the losi graphite arms on the AD2 break from normal, all 4 tires hit at once, landings. I've never seen or had a Losi plastic arm do the same.
New thrust assembly: I've fixed the original problem I personally had with the first diff. Not necessarily great upgrade.
New body: It's in the eye of the beholder.
The rest of the changes are minor modifications that could be easily adapted to the old truck (new tank, fuel tube holders, rear exhaust, etc...). It was disappointing not be to be able to slowly phase out my tires on the old wheels or else I would have changed (who doesn't want to have a brand new truck now and again instead of just replacing all the plastic and other overhaul stuff? :p ). There just needed to be a lot more drastic changes for me to change to the new truck. Like I said before, I can't get around a track any faster with the new truck and racers that are very close to my ability or at my ability do not race any faster or any slower than what they did with the previous truck. If Losi would have made some changes that made things more accessible when wrenching on the car, that would have definitely gotten my attention, but for now, I'm cool with the AD1.

Oh, and to clarify the 'stripping' issue with the rear hubs, I've unfortunately witnessed many AD2 owners take a hit, or not, and break a rear arm. When this happens, it somehow pulls on the small screws that are holding on the rear hubs and thus ruining the threads in the hubs. I personally like the old hinge pins, but that's just me. :) I like the ideas of the longer screws. Please let me know the part # some of you folks are using. I'll pass it on to my friends that have done the upgrade to the new truck.

[evaderstman]

hey i accidently fried my reciever and needed to know what kind to get. I have a futaba magmum jr radio and i had a futaba reciever.

[Casper]

Those new front arms are way strong. I personally have not seen a broken MF2/AD2 front arm since it was revised. Revised materials in the battery box help with durability and the rear hubs no longer split and the rear bearings are lasting longer. This is all subtle stuff but as a package help as a whole. The new rear end geometry although slight changes do help with rear traction which will make you faster as well. I agree that any one change by itself is pretty insignificant but you have to look at the overall upgrade and realize losi has done there homework and gone the extra mile to fix the short comings of the NT and try to improve the truck as a whole. Is it perfect in all respects for everyone. No you will never get to that point. Is it as step in the right direction? I would have to say yet. As for the quick tire change thing. Adam Drake, Jesse Roberts, and others were changing step pins at the nitro challange this year. Was it worth the extra 5-10 sec in the pits. The trucks did seem to have faster lap times after words. Did it help win the race, no Tebo won. would he have won anyway probably he won last year also. My point is that you may see it as a novalty at this point but the pro's are changing tires in these long 45 min mains even on step-pin tracks. I am looking forward to seeing a Blue groove track where tire changes I feel will make a more dramatic difference then a place like the dirt.

[Tim'sLosi]

hey i accidently fried my reciever and needed to know what kind to get. I have a futaba magmum jr radio and i had a futaba reciever.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNE04&P=7 Assuming you are AM and 75 Mhz.

[XXXNTMAN]

sorry that post was by me my friend accidently left his name in the remember me thing but that was me. Sorry

[JamminJay]

A few posts ago, I posted about breaking ball studs all the time, well I just picked up the Ti ball studs from lunsford. Got a good deal on them on Ebay. Anyway, is this gonna be better, or cause a problem? Also some of you suggested to run captured ends. Well, I saw a set on the truck that BigMoRC10 is selling in the buy/sell/trade forum for a friend. They are yellow and just as that truck is my whole trucks theme is yellow as well, does anyone know what brand or where to get them ones? I asked him about them but he didnt know, Thanx alot again.

[dgrobe2112]

jay, i seen those on ebay.. for sale by team bluestar..

http://www.teambluestar.com/maxxturnbucklestiny.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

they are not on there anymore.. but go to www.teambluestar.com and see if you can order just the captured ends from them..

[Casper]

I thought those were alum tie rods with that. I would not run the tie rods but the ends should work.

[losiguy1090]

The ends look really short. If you want yellow, I'd say just to get Dubros and a bottle of rit ;) Unless though, you are using rpm cups, which are short. But even those look shorter.

[JamminJay]

yes they look like them bluestar ones, altho those do look a little short compared to the pic, maybe???? But it does look like they are on the lunsford turnbuckles.

[dkj-M3]

Laterilus, the rear geometry gives the AD2 more rear traction & stability, which makes it even easier to drive than, the AD1, added 1-2sec a lap time for me, that's a lot. I can get on the throttle a lot sooner than I could with the AD1 with out the rear coming around on me. The quick change is awesome, not just to change tires in a main or during practice, but because it's just easier/quicker, like you said, to have to work on or clean them. Plus the fact that you only need to buy 1 type of wheel & not worry about if you have enough front or rear wheels. The earlier wheels seemed to be drilled offset, so that may be where the wobble was coming from. Rear arms break, because the correct maintenance was not done when building the hub/arm area. Also if you do not flat spot the rear pivot block hinge pins or make it captured the hinge-pin will slide forward & cause the pivot to break. I have NEVER seen anyone break the front arms or caster blocks. I have been running mine since the MF2 came out last year. I just bumped from the c-main to the a-main with the AD2 & didn't break a single part at our RC Pro-series race this past weekend. the only thing I broke the whole weekend was 1 rpm captured-end. which I'm replacing with dubro Monster balls, a lot beefier & they work for the super dutys, with no mods. Heehee, I like going to big races & not having to use up or buy extra parts.

[racinlosi]

Well....I thought I would show you guys the xxx-nt parts on the GTX. So here's a few pics of the whole thing together. If you want a closer shot of how the fit, lmk and I can post them on here(Those back hing pins are only mockups, yes I know they're bent. :cool: ):

[racinlosi]

Pic #2

[bomber 1]

Hello everyone, i Just purchased a rtr NT, I am mostely a basher but may race a bit. i was wondering if there is any upgrades i should make to make this thing stronger. Also what breaks alot that i need to stock up on. I am also wondering if it will be ok to run byrons 25% in the mach engine. That is what i use in my savages and i would just like to use the same stuff. Also what glow plug is best for the mach. Thanks guys

[losiguy1090]

Racinlosi, I havnt seen a GTX in a long time. The geometry of the suspension looks kinda similar to the gt. :cool:

Bomber, 25% is alright. Most people run 20, but 25 is fine. Some good upgrades are the alluminum rear pivot block from trinity, alluminum rear hubs from trinity, and lunsford turnbuckles. Oh yeah, and Dubro captured ball cups. Those are the best ones to have IMO

And then I would say to buy a few extra front and rear a arms cuz those can break.

[Got Speed]

Bomber1- I'd also say get an alum. pivot block, alum. rear hubs, lunsford turnbuckles, and captured ball ends(I'd say for one side of each turbuckle). For the rear hubs if you don't want the AD2 hubs and all then I'd suggest the GPM hubs because they are 1 degree hubs instead of 0 or 2 and they are exact copys of the originals. Not to mention you can get them in lots of different colors. lol

[Got Speed]

And the alum. bellcranks by gpm are a great upgrade if you don't want to tear apart the whole front end to replace them when they break.

[dgrobe2112]

alum bell crank??

[racinlosi]

Racinlosi, I havnt seen a GTX in a long time. The geometry of the suspension looks kinda similar to the gt. :cool:


Good thing that I am not the only one here that thinks so! :D When I was first trying to figure out what it was(I never knew of the GTX at the time), all I was thinking was an xxx-nt mixed together with a GT. Funny how things work. :cool:

[jcv220]

Who's running this engine? I've been retired from stadium truck racing for a year or so and my old set up was an RC10 GT with a Mugen mt-.12. I had great success with this combo and I loved the engine - when I sold it, it had 5 gallons through it and still running. Of course the guy I sold it to smoked it right away :(

Anyway... I just finished the build on my new AD2 and I'm very excited about it! I've had a xxx-T in the past and I liked it and I've driven a bunch of xxx-nt's and AD1's as well. I bought the Sirio S12SE for my new car and I'm wondering what you all think of this mill? How does it compare to my mt-.12?

Any input is appreciated

Thanks

[losiguy1090]

It has a very similar power band to the MT12. I do not personally have one but I have seen them run and I can vouch for them. They are fast. smooth, reliable motors. :cool:

[winning edge designs]

Jcv, the Sioro is a monster engine, with power as good as any. Be ready to lower your high end point on your transmitter, LOL...

As far as the tires and wheels on the AD2, I like using rear tires up front on blue groove, but also on any track that gets rough, since they seem better thru bumps and ruts, etc with rears all around. The ribs on front tires can catch sharp edges and move the front end around while driving over rough stuff. The rear tires just feel "better"..........................Jim

[JamminJay]

yea, on my local hard packed, kinda blue groove track the running combo is [P] Taper pins all around, with Trinity Bomb1 foams in the rear. If the track is a little tacky you can get away with [R] Directional up front w/ stock foam. I have had good luck when the track has been tacky also running [R] King Pins in the rear. these are not tall pins, they are very similar to Proline's Evil Twins.

[winning edge designs]

Jamminjay, we prefer to call them "evil Spins"........:), Jim

[losiguy1090]

I thought they were just referred to as "bad" :confused:

[jcv220]

Jcv, the Sioro is a monster engine, with power as good as any. Be ready to lower your high end point on your transmitter, LOL...

As far as the tires and wheels on the AD2, I like using rear tires up front on blue groove, but also on any track that gets rough, since they seem better thru bumps and ruts, etc with rears all around. The ribs on front tires can catch sharp edges and move the front end around while driving over rough stuff. The rear tires just feel "better"..........................Jim


winning edge designs, thanks for the info! I can't wait to break this baby in! What plug do you reccomend? I didn't realize it was a turbo plug until I tried to pop in an mc59. Are turbo plugs legal in gas truck?

[losiguy1090]

Yes, turbo plugs were recently made legal. You just cant have 5 ports.

[winning edge designs]

jcv, I don't have alot if turbo experience in a .12, but i'd think an O.S. 3 or 5 would be the ticket? Maybe someone on here will post what they run?

Losiguy, Funny thing is a Proline guy named em at last years losi race after trying them on the minnreg track, LOL.......Wheelies forward, donuts sideways.

I have heard they are awesome on some track thoughs, just haven't seen it locally. Around here the new King Pins are Da Bomb!..........Jim

[djgrom]

Sometimes racing just sucks :) hehehe Just a funny story really, went to race this weekend and it seemed that it was just one of those days where everything went wrong possibly went wrong. First I broke my rear shock tower, then a very soft tap at full speed in the boards ::whoops:: snapped the rear splindle carrier in half. After that i was pretty much done so when i popped the body my gas tank was cracked in two literally ::shocked face:: Now I take care of my truck, and I race it too so yes its a little more worn then most, but its in good condition. But how did the gas tank crack in half? Hehehe I think its really funny that the most protected part of the truck was the last part to break and end my day. Has anybody had this happen to them. I am kinda glad it broke to because i was feeling lazy that day and was going to put off a deep clean till the next day but i took the entire truck apart and cleaned it which was good because the track was real muddy that day. Anyways, I still lvoe my xxxnt.

[losiguy1090]

Hey guys, I dont mean to spam, but my XXX-NT is now on ebay if anyone is interested.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44029&item=5966162609&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

[winning edge designs]

djgrom, the tank may have been hardened from time and heat, possibly making it fragile and causing it to crack in a hard impact. I haven't had it happen, but i've hear of it. I usually change my tank when I tear the truck down, which is about twice a season, but once a season will even keep it from getting brittle.....Jim

[Got Speed]

dgrobe2112- Yeah the steering arms/bellcranks/or whatever you call you them. I always hated breaking those things because they broke easily and were such a pain to replace. GPM is the only I know of that makes them. They sell them direct on ebay for around $20.

[winning edge designs]

Got speed, you've broken steering bellcranks?..........I can't remember EVER breaking those on anything, A/E or Losi..............Your not jumping the roof of your house for Extreme vids, are you, haha?................Jim

[Y2KGTP]

Will a Revo engine fit a XXX-NT ? I'm curious on this......I have been thinking of a better solution for my boys for the starting of the XXX-NT's (pull-start\starter box) and they have such trouble with this.....

I am going to check to see if this engine fits the chassis........would be nice to have the revo engine & starting system in a stadium truck......

good idea?

[Y2KGTP]

Will a Revo engine fit a XXX-NT ? I'm curious on this......I have been thinking of a better solution for my boys for the starting of the XXX-NT's (pull-start\starter box) and they have such trouble with this.....

I am going to check to see if this engine fits the chassis........would be nice to have the revo engine & starting system in a stadium truck......

good idea?

Or if just the starting system fits, I might just use that.....

(I part out revo's, amoung other items....so I will be getting 4 of these in a couple weeks when my next shipment arrives.......)

[Casper]

The engine will fit. The problem will be getting a header that will fit in the body around the starting system. You could just bumpstart the motor once it is in the NT though but I would imagine you so not want a starter box.

[Y2KGTP]

The engine will fit. The problem will be getting a header that will fit in the body around the starting system. You could just bumpstart the motor once it is in the NT though but I would imagine you so not want a starter box.

I will have entire Revo's to play with, so I could just grab a header I guess if I needed.....I'm just curious on the motor starting backplate....it would be nice if it lined up....... :D

[Saboteur]

Sport NT is gonna be sold to a lucky friend. Gonna try to get the AD2 later on. :)

[losiguy1090]

Y2K, how you gonna get the clutch to fit w/ the SG shaft?

[Casper]

That is true. Forgot about that one. They do not make a threaded crank for that motor do they?

[Y2KGTP]

Y2K, how you gonna get the clutch to fit w/ the SG shaft?

Arugh......all you peoples with minor details.....I have a dremel & a soldering iron.....anything can fit.....

I have been eyeing one of my SH .28 engines .....wonder if that will fit? :D

I have so much crap laying around, it's not funny.....

[jclark]

Hey guys, got into RC about 3 years ago with my brother. Raced a few times but mostly just played around track. I bought the XXXNT kit so I could choose the motor and elec system, bro got the GT. After that winter i never got back into the fun, got too busy (got a wife and kids). Decided to knock the dust off of my truck and get some much needed fun. This seems to be a wealth of info so i'll be bugging you guys for help from time to time. Would love to make it through local race season and survive.

[jclark]

Was running an OS 15 cvr and loved it. Afraid it is shot now, was dissapointed to find it was discontinued. Like to have a powerful motor, pretty smooth triggerfinger and nice to have kick when needed. Would like to get a motor as powerful, but limited on $$$. Any suggestions? Why is the 18 CVR cheaper than the 12 CVR???

[evaderstman]

I have a question i was just rebuilding my nieghbors(xxx-ntmans) tranny last night and i had to replace the diff balls in it. The ones he had in there were completly flat so i through in some spairs from my evader. Now i have two questions one should i have replaced anything else, and two how come they have a doubled up idler gear why not just three gears? Anyway thanks for all the help you guys provide.

[dgrobe2112]

depending on the condition of the diff.. you prolly should either flipped over the big diff rings.. or put new diff rings in there..

[dkj-M3]

evaderstman- do what dgrobe said & replace the thrust washer with the new updated HD thrust washer for the AD2 & new diff nut.

jclark- most every one who races(on a track) runs .12 size engines. race quality .12s also put out more rpm than the bigger sport motors. That .18 will be a lot to handle on a track where you need to put the power to the ground instead of spinning the wheels.

If your just bashing having fun, I say go with the biggest that will fit.

[jclark]

Oh I wouldn't put an 18 in anything 2wd. Just trying to figure out why it was cheaper. Want something comparable to the 15cvr, will probably go to a 12 just loved the power of my old one. Does the 12cvr put out decent power? anything else in that price range better?

[Saboteur]

OS.12cvr puts out good usable power. My stock mach .15 engine runs like a champ with Odonnel fuel..well, when I showed my friend how to drive it who now has it. The CVR will make a bit more HP and RPM. Great engine to scoot with and fun run. The newer fantoms are also great and will push the NT to even more speeds than the CVR, with just as good reliability as the OS.

[offroadcrazy01]

april 9,10 any body here going to race in any of the rc pro series www.rcproseries.com

[dkj-M3]

i'm racing the north division. the 05 Fantoms are very fast.

[Casper]

I have a question i was just rebuilding my nieghbors(xxx-ntmans) tranny last night and i had to replace the diff balls in it. The ones he had in there were completly flat so i through in some spairs from my evader. Now i have two questions one should i have replaced anything else, and two how come they have a doubled up idler gear why not just three gears? Anyway thanks for all the help you guys provide.


Do not flip rings on the NT diff. The balls run too far out on the rings and one side has a nice sharp edge and the other has a rounded edge. (like most washers these are a stamped part). Always run the balls on the side with the sharp outer edge. Also if you are not running a thurst bearing with hardened grooved washers either replace the thrust bearing with one that does or just replace the thrust bearing. Also always replace the diff nut like someone already stated. You want to make sure the locking feature on this nut is as good as it will get (insurance). Last the compound idler gear is to get additional gear reduction. The middle gear in a 3 gear tranny does not reduce the gear ratio. It only transfers power. In the NT tranny the idler is part of the gear reduction for the truck. They did this for a couple reasons. The main one was to get the gear reduction low enough in the tranny to run a smaller spur gear which helps keep the CG lower but with the compound idler they were able to reduce moving parts and rotating mass and other issues with getting the large gear reduction the did get with there design.

[winning edge designs]

TeamLosi championships that weekend......I'm missing the Griffin Rc Pro because of preperation and painting bodies for customers for the TL race next weekend(7th, 8th, 9th, 10th)..:(. TeamLosi race is always a blast though.........:), Jim

[Mythane]

Upgrades
-OS .18 CV-R
-Aluminum Front arms
-Aluminum Back arms
-Drake pipe
-Drake header
-Threaded shock bodys
-nitrate shock shafts
-titan red screw kit
-graphite shock towers
-MIP CVD's
-RPM ball cups
-High Torq servo

[Mythane]

inside pic

[turd-furgison]

your truck sucks

[Mythane]

Turd Furgison... funny name

[Saboteur]

Hey Mythane nice ride. Have you driven it yet? Looks too clean. :P You're right...what a funny name. :)

Mr Furgison-Nice way to start off on the forums. Keep it up and you won't be here much longer. ;)

[Mythane]

yeah i drove it but the muffler bearings are already going out:(

[losiguy1090]

Do you mean clutch bearings?

[dgrobe2112]

www.avidrc.com for all bearing troubles.. :)

[winning edge designs]

Mythane, sounds like you've been to Pep Boys lately, they'll have you thinking you have muffler bearings and alternator fluid, but luckily they'll have a package deal for servicing it for only $79.95, LOL, :)....j/k

Truck looks nice, a few dolla's in that rig, beefy arms huh? Are they heavy or no?............Jim

[Y2KGTP]

Hey Mythane nice ride. Have you driven it yet?

It must be going to a track soon....by the look at the losi pink tapers on the rear, it's a blue groove track......no one buys those for playing in the street :D

[Saboteur]

True. Sweet! My friend is enjoying his new Sport NT I sold to him. That Mach .15 has plenty kick to it and it rips offline. Powerful stock engine :). I'll be playing in the dirt for now with an 8th buggy and soon on the track with an 8th onroad. Until then, the AD2 will waiting for a bit to head upto Barnstormers.

[Y2KGTP]

I don't like my MACH .15's....I can't keep a good tune, and the things seem to take forever on the starter box just to get going.....think I'm gonna yank them out (2 trucks), and install a Revo 2.5R + electric start.....

[Saboteur]

Wow, mine started right up with the first or 2nd tug? :confused:

[Y2KGTP]

Wow, mine started right up with the first or 2nd tug? :confused:

Really? I use a XXX-NT starter box, and they are such a pain for my boys to get running, that they just don't like to play with them anymore.....I figured by going to the revo 2.5R & starting system, it would be much easier....

[dkj-M3]

has to be a tuning issue, I would think that the Mach would be an easier to tune motor than the 2.5. I have heard horror story's about the 2.5

[Y2KGTP]

has to be a tuning issue, I would think that the Mach would be an easier to tune motor than the 2.5. I have heard horror story's about the 2.5

Well, maybe I'll give it another go with tuning......I'd like to get a backplate, as I use a starter box....anyone have a part #?

[Tim'sLosi]

From what I have seen some Machs are great, some suck. My new one is great...almost too much power for me and no tuning probs. Starts even though the one-way slips badly. My last one was more tempermental though.
I would say the same about the 2.5...RTR engines seem to come off the assy line relly good or really bad.

[evaderstman]

Y2kgtp look into some os .12 cv-rx's for your trucks they are a good price and very reliable. They also hold a tune very well and never stall.

[MikeWz]

You could also check out the Fantom FR-12s....great engines. More powerful than the OS engines, but with the same reliability. ANd at $139 for the engine, you can't really beat the deal (yeah the CV-R is probably cheaper, but it doesn't push the same kind of power).

Been a while since I've been posting in here. Glad to see some of the XXX-NT guys from a few years back are still in here. Keep ripping up those GTs guys :cool:

[Y2KGTP]

Y2kgtp look into some os .12 cv-rx's for your trucks they are a good price and very reliable. They also hold a tune very well and never stall.

I had a CV-R .12 in my drake...was not that bad.....i just want to get away from the starter box\pull start for my boys......they seem to have too many issues sharing 1 starter box.......especially when they don't want to kick over.....

[Saboteur]

Starter box not wanting to kick over a .12cvr??? :confused: My dual motor box kicks over my picco .26 easily.

[MikeWz]

You can try loosening up the Glow plug a turn or so. That should loosen up the compression on it and help it turn over. That is pretty weird that the box won't turn over a CV-R though. You may need to look into a new box. That ofna pink box with the torque motor is really good

[Y2KGTP]

Starter box not wanting to kick over a .12cvr??? :confused: My dual motor box kicks over my picco .26 easily.

This is the Losi XXX-NT box with dual motors, powered by a 12v Gell Cell.....I'm not too impressed with it..... :rolleyes:

[Saboteur]

Ohh I'm sry. Keep forgetting. Get an Ofna box next time ;).

[winning edge designs]

The mach .15's i've had the pleasure of working on have all run excellent after some carb tweaking. Super engine for a RTR...........Jim

[jclark]

New motor should be in tomorrow, thank god will be back in action. Had a problem, was wondering if anyone else has had. The Pins on my flywheel backed themselves out and ground against crankcase. When I installed I used blue locktight, never thought that would happen. Any tricks to ensure this doesn't happen again?

[dkj-M3]

use red loc-tite & make sure it drys, before you run it.

[Casper]

Drake also recommends you clean the screws with motor spray to make sure there are not any oils on the screws prior to applying lok-tite. Not a bad idea in critical locations like this.

[cromb]

I have a xxx-nt sport and would like to make it more race worthy. What are some hopups that would do this and make it more durable than stock parts? I am only interested in getting parts that are needful and not just for looks.
thanks

[dgrobe2112]

I would get the rear trinity pivot block, and some captured ends for the rear camber links, where it attaches to the rear shock tower. if you havent allready.. i would get titanium turnbuckles..

[cromb]

Thanks,
I just ordered some titanium turnbuckles. I will look into the other parts. I also just picked up a graphite front bulkhead (RTR broke).

[Casper]

I would just replace stuff as it breaks. Did you get punisher or superduty tie rods? The Superduty ones will use the RTR ball cups you already use. I would get some titanium ball studs for the front bulkhead and the rear shock tower. (both are .388)

[cromb]

I think they are the punisher but they didnt specify. It just said lunsford titanium turnbuckles. I bought them on Ebay so whichever is older probably.
I figured I would get stuff now so when parts break I can replace them with better parts.

[dkj-M3]

cromb, get the super-duty's, the punishers break. Although if you send them in, they replace them for you as long as they are lunsfords & not the ones that come in the losi kits.

[Casper]

Also if you choose to upgrade to the superduty get the ones for the RTR. These are a little shorter that will allow the use of the RTR ball cups.

[cromb]

I just ordered some dubro swivel ball links that are like the traxxas captured ends for the rear camber links. I also got some rpm heavy duty rod ends. I will keep the punishers for now. Are there really different turnbuckles for the rtr than the drake? I couldnt find any.
Thanks for your suggestions.

[Casper]

The Drake uses the same tie rods as the old car as far as I know. I use the older RTR kit on my AD2! I would stick with the losi white ball cups if you are running the punisher rods. These have worked really well on my electric cars. The RPM ones will not break but they will pop off a little more then the losi cups. I have tried the dubro before and was not too happy but others have had good luck with them.

[cromb]

So basically all the stuff I bought, you would suggest not getting... lol. The rtr ball cups dont fit on the tie rods so I needed something. The rpms are cheap though. Same with the dubros. We'll see how it goes.

[Casper]

There are worse things out there. I tried a lot of different setups before I settled on the superduty and the RTR ball cups btu I know a lot of people that run different stuff and like it. IF those things do not work you might want to try what I am running.

[Racin Rev]

I really like the dubro captured ends for the inside rear. Be sure to put a washer on the outside of the 4-40 screw to keep it from popping off. Also you need to check them between race dates because they become egg shaped with time and will eventually break. This is a time consuming fix and quite annoying at the track. I threw the white ball cups on my first race. they were ok for outside rear but not at all for the front. I had very good luck with the rpm's They are not perfect but the best i have found.

[XXXNTMAN]

Hey, I have a question. My neighbor decided I should tune my engine. He reset all the needels to factory settings. I was wondering how you had your cars set up. Mainly what i do is mainly just bash in my front yard.

[dgrobe2112]

to tune your motor.. need to get a good high speed pass.. to set the high speed needle.. after you get the high speed needle set.. then you set the low end.... set the low end so the car has a sliiiiight coming from a complete stop.. after you get that set.. you will need to retune the high speed needle.. possibly fatten it up about 1-2 hours..

[Y2KGTP]

Ohh I'm sry. Keep forgetting. Get an Ofna box next time ;).

Yeah yeah.....I know NOW :D

[losiguy1090]

Or a dynamite. Even though it's the same box, I used mine for 2 years w/ ZERO problems. But a couple times I forgot to charge the batts though between races :rolleyes:

[winning edge designs]

I was surprised to break a proline Tmaxx rod end on my AD2, but the hit was so bad, nothing would have survived.....even the theory of popping a standard ball cup back on wouldn't have helped the broken rear CVD dogbone, LOL.

I am using the white ballcups up front with no troubles though, in fact I always have used standard ball cups in front, with standrad lunsford titanium turnbuckles....................Jim

[Got Speed]

I'm also using the standard ball cups in the front and outside rear. With the T-Maxx ball end on the inside rear. All the turnbuckles are the stock lunsford ones that come with the AD. I've never had a problem with this setup. I replace the ball ends whenever they get a little slop in them and have never broken one.

[Racin Rev]

i tried to use the traxxas ball ends but the turnbuckles had a nasty habit of pulling out of them even with ca.

[dkj-M3]

i never broke the traxxas ends on the AD1, but the AD2 is snappin' them left & right(really just left,lol). the RPM ends work, but on a bad hit that would rip the traxxas, the RPM's will get a ton of slop, but not break. This is when I replace them. I'm now trying the dubro Monster ball ends, They are super thick & look like they should be good. I will run them tomorrow for the 1st time , so we'll see.

[Racin Rev]

I have never snapped one but the id is just wide enough that it doesn't grab the threads very well so they don't have much to grab onto. Maybe I am missing something here. short of filling the holes with jb weld and re drilling and tapping them I don't see how to get enough meat on the turnbuckle.

[winning edge designs]

racin rev, you need the super duty turnbuckles, those are 3.5mm, rather then 3mm threads................thats the difference between locked in and coming apart............Just measure yours and get them in the same length, but S.D...........Jim

[Racin Rev]

I guess i was missing something. thanks for the info. I am no expert on traxxas stuff and my hobby shop guy isn't either. I will give those a try.
btw do you happen to have a part #?

[dkj-M3]

Here is my setup with part numbers, works for me.

Turnbuckle & captured ends setup
I use the dubro monster balls(lol) they are great with the Lunsford superduty turnbuckles. You have to drill out the losi white ball cups a little for the super duty's to fit. This set-up is working for me.

Part# 2317 Dubro 4-40 Monster Balls (2)
LOS9945 Losi .188" BALL STUDS, titanium (2)
LOS9946 Losi .250" BALL STUDS, titanium (2)
LOS9947 Losi .380" BALL STUDS, titanium (2)
LOS9948 Losi .250" BALL STUDS, titanium (2) short neck
LOS9949 Losi .380" BALL STUDS, titanium (2) short neck
LUN12065 Lunsford Titanium XXX-NT AD2 SUPER DUTY TURNBUCKLE SET, titanium (6)

I only use the super duty links on the front & rear camber links. I use the stock links for steering.

use the LOS9947 for the rear hub & front inner camber-link(front bulkhead).

use LOS9949 for the front carrier.

[losiguy1090]

KJ, that's the same ball cup setup I used on my NT :cool: Never had any problems.

[bonk]

so i bought a triple xnt sport rtr II a couple weeks ago, broke it in, and everything is going good, (second nitro vehicle, first was a nightmare, damn adjustments) well the guy at my lhs told me to not fiddle with the engine adjusts like lean and rich and all that, and so ive been running at factory settings, which has been workign just fine for me, now, im just curious should i let the engine cool down after every run, every couple runs, usually i run 2 or 3 tanks through and let it cool down then go out later, but if i had the time to run more should i still let it cool, i know i should probably get a temp gun and all this, but im kinda new to the hobby, and even if i had one, i wouldnt know what to do with it, any help appreciated, thanks

[Casper]

If the engine is tuned right you can run as long as you have battery power! If you do not have a temp gun you can use the spit test to see how hot the motor is. You can put some spit on your finger and tap the top of the head. If it sizzles off fast it is probably too hot. If it sits there for a second and then goes evaporates away quickly it is about perfect. If the spit stays there for more then a couple seconds it is too cool. This is an inexact science. For about $25 you can get a temp gun at your LHS. Point the temp gun down the middle of the head at the glow plug. After 1-2 min of running your the engine should be up to temp. Take a temp reading of the glow plug. Your engine should be running in the 200-230 range for best performance. If the engine is running cooler and you are happy with the performance don't touch it. If it is hotter then the richen the top end. Now if you are running and the temps keep going up and you do not touch any needels and you are happy with the top end, to keep the temps from going up you need to richen the bottom end an possibly richen the top end a little. Make adjustments at 1-2 hour adjustments. (picture the screw as a clock and make adjustments in 1/12th of a turn incraments.) Most engines run best in the this 200-230 range and much hotter (depending on the engine) could begine damaging the engine due to a lean condition and a lack of lubrication. Running on the rich side does not hurt anything other then possibly fouling glow plugs a little more freq. Hope this helps.

[winning edge designs]

Bonk, pay VERY cose attention to Caspers first sentence..........It is the single most important thing and helps you avoid things like new engines, etc..............:), Jim

[Got Speed]

bonk- Actually if you run an engine tank after tank without letting it cool it is actually better for it. When an engine starts it experiences the most wear untill it warms up because the piston and sleeve have not expanded yet creating more friction. This may not really be of any practical use but just a thought. lol

[jclark]

Hey guys,
Two questions:
First I am about to paint a new body for my truck and I was wondering who makes the color that matches the Losi yellow wheels the closest. Found a couple that are close, thought you guys might know an exact match.

I have never been much of a basher, love to race, but I am a bar manager with a wife and 2 kids. I find lately if I want to get my RC fix I have to sneak outside and play in the yard and street when the opportunity comes along. ususally only get to the track every other week. I have worn all my old tires slick and don't want to wear out my racing tires. What are the best tires front and back for Grass/Dirt/Street that will last a while and provide decent grip?

[Casper]

Pro-line dirt hawgs or the Losi Smasher tires are the best all around tires with good wear.

[winning edge designs]

jclark, try some pactra "flourescent yellow".......not the flourescent "race" yellow, it's is darker.........Jim, jconcepts.net

[bonk]

question!

ok so i broke the screw in the diffs that makes it work there, and i got a replacement, so now i cant get my truck to run right at all, is there a way to tune it from "zero" or soemthing like that, can anyone explain to me how to put it back to factory, or something, i had to remove the entire rear end to fix this screw, so nothing is like it came, and the truck wont move/idle/turn on/ its always one of the three, i cant find the right adjustments, nor do i know enough of how these parts work to figure it out, its driving me bonkers

[Casper]

You broke the screw that keeps the diff together right?

Will the tranny not spin anymore?

Sorry I am having a hard time understanding what exactly is the problem from your post.

[bonk]

yeah ,i broke that screw, and i went and bought a new one, and i reassembled the car, now my problem is i cant get it to run correctly, i do not know how to adjust the diff and spur gear bolt ,i do not know the correct name of it, so i was wondering if anyoen could tell me how , ive fiddled with it and i either have a problem with idleing, starting, or driving the car, i did not touch any oif the engine adjustments because it was running fine before, id rather not fiddle with those anyways, so its just because of the diff not being set right,

[Casper]

Ok. Here are a few things to try. First you cannot really tighten down on the tranny case screws. Now you do not want to leave them loose as they will back out but you cannot really wrench down on them either. The tranny should spin freely before you put it back in the car. Here is how you adjust the diff and the slipper.

With the car point away from you with both tires on. Hold the right side tire and the spur gear with one hand. With the other turn the left tire. Look at the slipper shaft and as the left wheel turns if the slipper shaft does not also move the diff is giving before the slipper. Tighten the diff or loosen the slipper as required to make sure the slipper shaft moves during this test.

A good place to set the slipper is to screw it in so the spring bottoms out. Then back the nut off 5 FULL turns. The nut should be about flush with the end of the slipper screw. This is a good starting point to set the slipper. Now make sure the slipper gives before the diff does using the test described above.

If the tranny does not spin freely with the brake off, fix that problem first. Back off the screws that hold the tranny together a very small amount until the tranny spins. If backing off the screws does not help you have a bad bearing or some debris in the gears.

[winning edge designs]

Your post has me confused, so i'm sure the truck needs some work, LOL, j/k.

A carb starting point should be in the manual for your engine? O.S. .12's for example usually like to start out when new at 2 1/4 turns high needle and 2 turns low needle.

If the truck won't move, something is locked up, like brake linkages are incorrect, or something is jammed(not like in spaceballs).

If the truck won't turn on, maybe you left the receiver battery unplugged during surgery? Or you developed a switch problem.

Sounds like it maybe time to consult a manual, or make a trip to the local Hobby shop? You did buy the truck locally and not mail order, right?...................Jim

[dkj-M3]

xxx-nt diff build by Drake


I use the new Team Losi diff nut carrier, then stack 11 beveled washers (all the same direction). Insert all the parts into the male outdrive. Apply some TL white grease to the both outdrives and then place the diff rings onto the outdrivers with the sharp edge out. Insert both 5 X 8 bearings onto the male outdrive. Place the TL 3/32 carbide diff balls into the gear. Dab each side, of each ball with just enough lube (TL, MIP, or AE) to cover the ball. Too much grease will cause the diff to slip. Stand the diff screw up and slide the Team Losi foam thrust seal over the screw, then one thrust washer. Lube the washer with a heavy coat of TL white grease or AE black grease. Then slide thrust assembly over the screw and apply more grease and the final thrust washer. Take one beveled washer and slide it over the screw next. Insert the screw / thrust assembly into the female outdrive. Put the two halfs together and tighten the diff. As you tighten the diff screw "work" the diff and tighten it more. I use TL white gears to lube the teeth of the gears. If you have ever melted a differential it’s because it was too loose and slipping. You never want the differential to slip. Always make sure your slipper will slip before the differential. It will help take some load off the differential and transmission. A good starting point for the slipper is to tighten the slipper nut all the way down and then back it off 5 full turns. Remember this is just a starting point. After every 1-3 runs check and make sure the diff is still tight and not slipping. Hold the right tire and the spur gear in one hand and rotate the left tire, as you rotate the left tire, the slipper spring and plate should turn. This means the slipper is slipping before the differential. If the spring and plate are not turning, your differential is slipping. You never want the diff to slip. Loosen the slipper a little and tighten the diff. I hope this helps.

[jclark]

Ok I am stumped on this one. Went to the track today and ran into a problem I can't seem to solve. Was wondering if you had any imput. Motor fired up fine, idled wonderfully ran a little rich to get the AR oil cleaned out. Put it on the track hit the first jump, died on landing. Thought it might just be the richness so I leaned it out a little. Happened again and again and again. I know that sometimes the flywheel will slap on impact and kill an engine if it is too low, but I have never had this problem before and am running heavier shock oil than before so I don't think this is the problem.

I do run my diff and slipper tighter when I am just playing so I thought maybe the slipper wasn't giving with clutch engaged so i loosened it quite a bit. Didn't help. Thought maybe my clutch was binding, installed a spare stock, didn't help.

Just to make sure it was not just coincidence I ran it around on flat surface, went through 2 tanks w/no problem.

Any imput would be greatly appreciated

[Billy L]

JClarkNot an expert, I can only tell you what happened to me once. The screws that attached to my tranny brace came loose and that allowed the chassis to flex on impact and pinch the spur and pinion causing the motor to stop. Like I said Iam no expert. Just thought I would share. :cool:

[dkj-M3]

jclark, that's weird, maybe put a new glow plug in.

[cabbynate]

Put in some new clutch bell bearings.

[dgrobe2112]

www.avidrc.com

[bonk]

okay, im still having trouble here, i went to the lhs and they fixed up my diff, i adjusted it like said on the team losi web site under tech tips or whatever, and i did the 5 turns out on the slipper screw... now in order to get the engine to turn on and stay running the screw needs to be so far out it doesnt apply any pressure to the spring, and any tighter it wont idle at all, now i dont udnerstand when i give it gas it doesnt move the truck, the engine is on and the spur gear spins, but if i tighten the slipper nut it wont let the engine turn over and idle, whats wrong, is something put togehter wrong ,the lhs did all the work, r/c madness in conn if anyone is wondering.... please help...

[dkj-M3]

Sounds like you probably just need to tune the motor. If there is a track near you. I suggest you go there & try & find an experenced racer that can help you. It's kind of hard, when you can't see the actual problem.

The diff or tranny has nothing to do with keeping the engine idling or running. Tuning an engine is something you have to learn with nitro, in order to have fun.

Try this link or do a search for rc nitro engine tuning, to get the basics. If the weather outside changes, you will most likely have to change neddle settings but not much. Just always remeber the stock break-in settings for a starting point & just lean it from there a little at a time.

here's the link: http://www.rc10gthobby.com/~mystracing/Nitroind.htm

hope this helps.

[dkj-M3]

I think this came from RC Car Action under tips section:
Understanding Your Engine
The first and foremost consideration when attempting to tune your glow engine is understanding the basic parts and their functions. By understanding the fundamentals, you can better tune your engine for maximum performance while at the same time, expanding the life of your engine.
Carburetor
The carburetor is the mechanism that mixes fuel and air in very specific proportions and passes it on to the engine through the vacuum intake. The natural operation of the engines causes of flow of gases to pass through the engine (through the carburetor) and out the exhaust manifold and on to the pipe or muffler. The exact mechanism for this is unimportant for the scope of this tutorial, however it is important to realize that air and fuel pass into the engine by this vacuum method. Depending on how you adjust your carburetor, you can either adjust how much of this gas/air mixture reaches the engine and to what proportion of gas to air passes on to the engine. By reducing the amount of fuel per volume of air, you are making the mixture "lean" and by increasing the amount of fuel, you are making the mixture "rich".

The two types of carburetors are slide and barrel. The old-style barrel carburetors still dominate the market because of their simplicity in design and because of the tendency for designers to hang on to legacy design. These have been around since the beginning of glow-fuel planes. They control gas/air flow by rotating a barrel with a hole cut in either side that allows varying amounts of gas/air mixture to flow through the carburetor as the hole opening enlarges to the venturi (air shaft down the center of the carb body).

Idle-Speed Adjustment
This is the most basic and easy to understand part of tuning your carburetor. This spring-tensioned screw limits the closure of the barrel aperture. Although this doesn't affect the mixture of the fuel it does affect the idle speed. The more closed the aperture is, the slower the idle, the larger the aperture, the faster. As you close this aperture up and the idle speed decreases, you will eventually (sooner than later) stall the engine out. In order for the engine to run, it must have enough inertial energy built up in the engine and flywheel to carry it through the entire ignition cycle. Generally speaking, you want to adjust this down to the slowest idle, just before it begins to stall.

Low-End Mixture Adjustment
This adjusts the fuel mixture at or near idle. Some engines lack this low-end mixture valve for reasons of simplicity, however this makes accurate tuning difficult.

For barrel carbs, this mixture valve is generally found where the throttle-arm pivots. Some are countersunk, others are clearly visible from the outside. On slide carbs, they are generally found on the opposite side of the carb from the throttle slide shaft (has an accordion billow type rubber boot over it) next to, but below the fuel-inlet and high-end mixture valve.

High-End Mixture Adjustment
Also known as the Main Needle adjustment, this is the primary fuel mixture adjustment. This is generally found on the top end of the engine, typically next to where the fuel line goes into the engine. Some are flat-head screws like the low-end mixture, others are hand adjustable valves.


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Tuning Basics

It's important to understand that there is a reputation for glow-engines to be difficult to tune. This is a common error in thinking. With a little bit of know-how, tuning a glow engine can really be a simple, pain-free process. People that don't properly understand the basics can easily become frustrated by what should be a simple, straightforward process. Here's how you do it:

Dialing it In
For the purpose of this tutorial we are going to make some basic assumptions. First, we're going to assume that the rest of your car or truck is properly functioning and that you have everything ready to go. Second, we're going to assume that you are able to start your engine and that it at least runs for a second or so.

The first place to start with dialing in your engine is to make sure that you have your idle-speed properly adjusted. Your engine manual should give you specific instructions on setting the aperture gap to the minimum size. It's important that we get this resolved before continuing on. If your engine can't get enough air/gas flow then it won't start/run. A clockwise rotation opens the aperture and increases the idle RPMs, a counterclockwise slows it down.

Second, you should tune the low-end mixture valve. This is done before the high-end (main needle) adjustment because an improperly adjusted low-end can affect the high-end performance. Like most mixture valves, clockwise rotation will "lean" the mixture and a counterclockwise will "richen" the mixture.

To determine whether the low-end mixture requires tuning, allow the engine to warm up completely, and then allow it to idle, uninterrupted for one full minute. If the engine continues to run after the minute is up then your low-end mixture is correct and you're ready for the high-end adjustment. If it dies on you then there are two possibilities; either you are running too rich or too lean. To determine which is the case you must listen for how the engine dies in its idle test.

If the engine's RPM's rev up at the last second and then the engine dies than you are running too lean. To correct this, turn the low-end mixture screw counterclockwise (out) 1/8 of a turn (always make adjustments in 1/8 turn) and retry the idle test.

If, on the other hand, it begins to wind down and you notice a change in how the exhaust sounds in the last few seconds, then your engine is running too rich. To correct this, turn the low-end mixture screw clockwise (in) 1/8 of a turn and then retry the idle test.

Once you have passed the idle test and are able to idle for one full minute (after first warming the engine up, of course) you are ready to continue on. You may have to repeat the above process a few times until it is properly set. Remember, only adjust the screw 1/8 of a turn. It's far too easy to go too far with the adjustment. Setting changes don't always take effect immediately. You may have to run your engine for a few minutes for the full effect to take place.

Now that you have dialed in your low end, any carb mixture problems can be isolated to the high-end (main) mixture adjustment.

Acceleration is the tell-tale sign of how to tune your high end. If you hit the throttle and it takes off suddenly but then suddenly dies or loses power then you have your main mixture set too lean. Try backing (counterclockwise) the main mixture needle out 1/8 of a turn and retry. If it bogs immediately when you hit the throttle (sounds like it's choking), then it's most likely running too rich. Try leaning the mixture out by screwing the main mixture valve in (clockwise) 1/8 of a turn.

The more accurate way of really dialing in the top-end is to take the engine's temperature. A properly tuned engine should run between 210° and 220° Fahrenheit. This can only really be ascertained by using and infra-red thermometer such as the type used by automotive mechanics. On-board or direct-transfer types that measure the heat from the head are inaccurate because, assuming the head is properly dissipating heat, it would reflect a lower than accurate temperature as a majority of the heat energy would be dissipated from the exposed surface of the head. By "looking" at the temperature near the core (actually, area immediately surrounding the glow plug) the temperature can be more accurately read.

The cheap but easy alternative would be to drop a bead of water down the head on the glow-plug and see whether it boils off. If it slowly simmers than it probably is running right around 212°. If it boils to quickly then it's probably too lean and needs to be richened. If it just sits there and doesn't boil at all, then its running too rich and needs to be leaned out.

An engine that is running too lean will run hotter and exceed the 220° degree limit. This can significantly reduce the life of your engine. Although it may be tempting to run your engine as lean as possible (does give a short-lived performance boost), this should only be done if you are very wealthy and like swapping engines out every race. There is no quicker way to kill and engine, honest. This is simply because as you lean the engine out, it gets less fuel to the engine, and more importantly, less lubricant. Since glow fuel is the only means of lubrication for your engine, the lack of it means certain death to your powerplant.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A few final do's and don'ts...

Give your adjustments time to take affect. Remember that most adjustments won't be immediately noticeable. You need to drive your engine through it's full range for at least a minute. Make sure you make adjustments in 1/8 turn adjustments only!
Always run on the rich side. It's far better to take a slight performance hit than to turn your engine into a paper weight. Running too lean may give you a temporary thrill, but it's short lived. Your engine must get the proper amount of lubrication at all times.
Changes in temperature affect your tuning! Whenever the outside temperature changes you will most likely need to re-adjust your engine. Warmer temperatures require a leaner setting where colder temperatures require a richer setting.


I hope that this info gets you on the right track. If all fails, it's always a good idea to get expert advice from the vets down at your local track. However, be aware of the guy that's too eager to give you advice on how to get that extra performance boost out of your engine. Unless he or she plans on buying your next engine, I would be weary of any such advice. Good luck!

[winning edge designs]

bonk, it sounds like a clutch problem, since the slipper is so loose it allows the engine to stay running and the truck not to move while the clutch is always engaged. Turn your flywheel and see if it turns the clutch bell and spur while doing so, with the engine off of course. If it spins the clutch bell you have a locked on clutch problem. If it doesn't spin the clutch bell, try tightening the slipper with the engine running and the rear wheels off the ground. If it stays running off the ground and stalls when you drop the back tires on the ground, you have a clutch problem.

If nothing seems wrong with the clutch itself, then have someone check your carb settings.
Hope this helps, Jim

[dgrobe2112]

what motor are you running..

[bonk]

im running the os mach .15, that came in it... i just checked the flywheel thing, and the clutch bell and spur gear move also, so what should i do to fix this? is it something serious, or just another screw to deal with or soemthing? thanks for the help

[Saboteur]

Well, been thinking of a AD2 and a .18cvrx for bashing with it. That or buying the RB X12. I have a Mugen MT12, but it's SG shaft and I have no way of really fitting SGs in the Losi. The GT does work, but my LHS stopped getting those. Losi's are now dominating! W00T!!! :D. Surely a .12CVR will be nice, but where I'll go, gonna have to step it up a bit.

[winning edge designs]

Saboteur, an .18...cool, too much power is never enough, LOL.

I run an O.S. TR.12 and I don't even use 100% carb opening to race it, since it is too much power, I usually run about 70% of fully open, to get more fuel mileage and keep the front end down, or the donuts to a minimum!...haha....................Jim

[Saboteur]

I don't remember them carrying any old TRs, so I can't find something for a good deal. :( They do have the .12cvr, but eh, it's not enough really. Would surely benefit from something more especially since the track isn't really dusty. Surely I can do great with a .12cvr, but from what I remember, they do gulp fuel a lil bit and don't have as much top, which I could use for the straights. The .18 was an idea because they have it for $105 in the LHS. LOL!

[Hellbilly242]

Hey guys, just got a new xxx-nt and i'm looking for a dedicated Losi forum. Kinda like Savage Central is for Savages. Is there any place like that where you Losi guys hang out?

[evaderstman]

You can try thedrake.net

[evaderstman]

Also my nieghbor has his xxx-nt for sale here http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=196723 it would make a great parts truck for anyone here. The truck just isn't working for him though as he is more of a basher.

[bomber 1]

My nt is for sale on ebay if anyone is intrested. Bidding starts at a buck, and no reserve.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=49217&item=5977172771&rd=1

[Hellbilly242]

You can try thedrake.net

Thanks! Just what i was looking for.

[cromb]

I just got an Adam Drake Kit. Not the new one. I have had a Sport for a while and love it. Anyway, I would like to know what you guys would suggest I use for servos, engine, radio, tires, etc. to make it complete and any other upgrades from the stock drake you would suggest. The intention is to eventually race it.
Thanks,

[Casper]

How much you willing to spend. We can recomend stuff in just about any price range. The more you spend the more bells and whisles you can have. If you are on a budget we can get you race worthy stuff for less.

[cromb]

I dont think I need the top of the line stuff and I am not nessesarily on a tight budget. Maybe something in the middle of the two. Although, I will spend more for stuff you think is more important.

[Casper]

Get a good radio. JR XS3 is synthesized and around $200 and comes with some decent servo's. Not sure when the new DX3 is coming out from spektrum but that would be a great radio as it has the built in DSM stuff. Not sure what it's cost is. Servo's 94737 for throttle and 94758 for steering. Motor. If this is your first gas truck, get an OS CV or CV-R. They are cheap and produce good power and are easy to tune.

IF you are willing to spend more. The new JR Z-1 is a KO helios with the JR synthesized modual and reciever. That will set you back aover $300. M8 is a good choice as well. Radio alone is $175 then you need a reciever. You could add spektrum for $165 more.

[cromb]

I currently have the JR XR2i radio for my Sport. I really like it, but I dont have much to compare it to. I think JR makes a good radio.
I am pretty familiar with the tuning of the two engines I currently have(Omega .15, Mach .15). What engine would you suggest if I am not new to nitro?
I suppose tires are going to be different according to the track.
Does it matter if I get a pull start vs a bump start? I have only used pull starts.

[Casper]

The JR X3S is the FM synthesized version of the radio you have then. I would recommend going to something FM.

The CVR is about all the power you need. If you really want more power the Nova Rossi CX12R2N motor is really nice. You can get the Top verison for about $170 at www.ultimatehobbies.com Those motors produce a ton of power and get great fuel milage. The Peak diablo is a good motor but fuel milage stinks. If I did not get the CVR my second choice would be the Nova Rossi.

I prefer bumpstart. Pull starts are too much a pain in the behind. The string snaps or the spring comes undone or you blow oneway bearings. Bump starts are much simplier and are lighter in the truck. The problem is you need to carry around a starter box. That choice is up to you.

[BradRS_62]

Hi everyone,


I'm new to RC and just starting out with the XXXNT. The instructions say the diff adjustment screw is visible and accessible with the drive shaft in place. But i cannot see the "screw line" of the screw to line it up with the outdrive. Much less insert the Allen wrench for proper adjustment. Its something so easy and i'm just missing it.

Thanx in advance for any help.

[Casper]

Hi everyone,


I'm new to RC and just starting out with the XXXNT. The instructions say the diff adjustment screw is visible and accessible with the drive shaft in place. But i cannot see the "screw line" of the screw to line it up with the outdrive. Much less insert the Allen wrench for proper adjustment. Its something so easy and i'm just missing it.

Thanx in advance for any help.

If the Diff was installed properly the screw head should be on the left side of the car. Opposite the spur gear side. If you hold the left rear tire with the outdrive groove in a vertical position you should be able to turn the right side tire and the screw should rotate and line up with the outdrive groove. I usually stick a 1/16th allen in the outdrive and push inboard while spinning the right side tire to get the allen wrench to hold onto the screw groove when adjusting the diff. Hope this helps.

[BradRS_62]

Thank you for the help. The problem i'm having is i cannot "see" the the screw. Is it located where the driveshaft is connected? If so the driveshaft connection is blocking my view to the screw itself. It's a RTR where the diff adjust screw, according to the instructions, is suppose to be located on the side of the spur gear.

Thanks again.

[winning edge designs]

Brad, you won't see the screw, only the slot cut in it. When you hold the outdrive on the screw head side with an allen key(like casper said) in the outdrive and spin the opposite tire, the slot in the diff screw will eventually pop in line and allow the allen key to pop into the slot. After this you be able to turn the tire opposite the diff screw head to adjust it(while holding the allen key in place)......Hope this makes sense, Jim

[BradRS_62]

is there any installation involved with a starter box for the XXX NT?

Thanx in advance.

[winning edge designs]

Brad, the TeamLosi starter box for the XXX-NT has the needed adapters to fit the truck perfectly. It can be used with 2 battery packs, or one gell/sealed battery. It does require assembly, if that is what you mean by "installation"? It is an excellent box though and has served me well so far!.......Jim

[Hadrien]

Hi there guys, I tried searching for an answer to this but 55 pages of posts seemed a bit daunting. I need a little help with my newly acquired XXX-NT AD1.

I got it off eBay and everything was working great and then I noticed that the rear turnbuckles were bent and would eventually break. I though "great opportunity for an upgrade!". I went out and got a set of the Lunsford Super Duty Titanium Tierods for the XXX-NT. I also got a set of the Losi tierod ends but when I got home I noticed they were wayyyy too long. So after reading Lunsfords site about how to use the RPM ends #73372, I went out and got those.

I got the front tierods all setup with the RPM ends and snapped them onto the truck and started to try to make fine adjustments. As soon as I start to wrench on the tierod to adjust it in or out, one of the ends just pops off the ball its snapped onto. Its almost like the plastic cups are too big. I tried putting a little CA in one of the RPM cpus but the same thing happens. I couldnt really get a 100% yes or no from lunsfords website if I need to also replace all the stock ball ends on my truck as well or not.

Any tips would be most helpful. :) Also, I know this may be a dumb question but what size of tierod goes where on the truck? There are 3 lenghts of tierods. I was able to figure out that the longest tierods go on the rear, but am unsure if the shortest ones should go on the camber links or is they go on the steering links.

[OTB Dub]

Anyone else had a problem mounting a body on the xxx-nt? I have a Drake I and just painted the body, but when I try to put it on it snags on the rear shock mounts, not the tower. I really don't know what to do to get it to fit. Everything is set up according to the manual. Thanks

[XXXNTMAN]

I have had a xxx-nt for a long time and I have never had any trouble mounting the bodies. Are you sure that you are lining them up right b/c that could be a problem.

[cabbynate]

Hadrien,
You need the super duty ball studs. You should see them on Lunsford's site.

[winning edge designs]

OTB, your not trying to use an electric body from the XXXT/MF2, are you?

The only other possiblity is if the mounting holes were drilled off from the marks.......Jim

[dkj-M3]

Hadrien,
Just hold the cup with some pliers. It's what i do. I also have a set already made up to the correct length. so I adjust them off the truck, then just put them on & they are already set.

[halomachine]

i've had this xxxnt sport for four months, and it's run exactly twice. the problem is that when i try to turn the engine over using the spin-start, the engine or something seizes and the front of the truck jumps off the ground. this doesn't happen all the time, but today for instance, it was bad enough that i gave up after about two hours (having never gotten the freaking thing so much as started). i have the stock mach15RE engine, and am using the recommended glow plugs. i've already broken the spin-start bearing/socket on account of this and had to reorder it, and the tech support guy was so condescending i would rather not call back. i'm not an idiot; i've taken the truck apart and can't find what's wrong, but this is my first nitro, so i don't really know what to look for... someone help me PLEASE before i make use of a sledgehammer or a shovel or something else big and heavy and nasty. thanks. :mad:

[Tim'sLosi]

i've had this xxxnt sport for four months, and it's run exactly twice. the problem is that when i try to turn the engine over using the spin-start, the engine or something seizes and the front of the truck jumps off the ground. :mad:

Is there a local hobby shop you can go to? Or a person with more experience you can ask? I have always had luck with calling Losi directly. You could also try thedrake.net. Point is...you need live assistance.

[halomachine]

i've spent about two hours on the phone with losi, and they transfer me from one tech support person to another. none of them even had an exploded diagram of the spinstart assembly, and no manual for it is included with the truck (it's still a pullstart manual in the box.) one tech guy was very condescending and irritated me very quickly. and as far as a local hobby shop; i've tried and none of them are losi people. they're like, 'problems with your xxx-nt, huh,..too bad, you should've bought an associated...we know all about it and see how many parts we have for it??'

[winning edge designs]

Halomachine, Unfortunatly it is to the shops benifit that A/E has a 15 year old platform, ha, we always joke at the track about the GT being designed in 1977, then released in 93ish, :).

Something sounds like it is locking up in the clutch area, broken spring, debris, etc? Have you checked that out?

Perhaps you'll need to mail the truck into Horizons tech/service/warranty department. They have been very good at helping out locals with warranty problems and are pretty quick to solve them(for a big company at least)................Hope this helps, Jim

[halomachine]

thanks for the help. i hadn't really even thought that the problem might be with the clutch, so i'll definitely check that out. hopefully that's all it is. thanks again.

[traxdan]

hey i bought my xxxnt on tuesday and im lookin to boost the speed and or power is there a exhaust reccomended or anything to do besides the gear ratio stuff??

another thing i was wondering is about how many tanks does it take to wear out the motor because i have went through about 25 tanks and dont know if im being too hard on it or not?

and other upgrades or anything that will help me out would be appreciated
Thanks
Dan

[Casper]

What motor do you have currently and are you racing it. If you keep the temps in check and use after run oil at the end of the day the motor should last through gallons of fuel.

[Saboteur]

Well, haven't quite left the Offroad scene yet. Said I'd get an AD2 to drive after I come back and get a nice engine for it. :)

[Got Speed]

I've finally decided to sell my XXX-NT. The st scene is dying around here now that we have a couple 1/8 tracks opening up. I'm still racing just not STs(at least till I move to so cal, hehe). If anybody is intrested I can pics/details. falcon247@gmail.com

[PAJAMAZ]

Any suggestions on the type of glow plug I should use on my XXX-NT?
Either Fox or McCoy and what type. It's in stock form and I use Bluethunder
20% fuel, I also live about 4000' above sea-level. ( Recently moved from a
sea-level location).

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanx DT in NC.

[Casper]

MC59 is always a popular choice when running .12 engines. I like the Odonnell 77 also.

[PAJAMAZ]

MC59 is always a popular choice when running .12 engines. I like the Odonnell 77 also.


Thanx for the info I'm gonna order a couple!!!!

[Breakin2]

OK, I have a unique problem. My AD2 won't move. I just finished building it and I'm going to break in the engine and the thing revs and idles fine. However, when I pull the throttle the revs build as if it's going to move and the car even rocks a bit, but it won't move. I tore down the clutch and it was greasy feeling, so I sanded it down and cleaned the inside of the clutch bell. However, it still isn't moving. What the hell am I doing wrong?

[dkj-M3]

check diff, tranny gears, back of flywheel, slipper.

[winning edge designs]

breakin2, lots of possible problems with this. I don't want you to think i'm cracking on your biulding abilities, but recheck everything from the wheels into the clutch. You could have a problem from wheel pins not in the wheel/rim, to a tranny shaft missing a pin, or no slipper pads on the slipper, etc.?.............It'll take some research to track down, so be patient.....:), Jim

[ludwigvon88]

See my next message

sorry

[ludwigvon88]

Hi,

I have a nitro losi xxx-nt sport and i will like to know if the FR15 2005 engine will fit perfectly in it? I am worried about the standard short threaded crankshaft. Could I just change my current engine (mach .15) without buying anything else then the fr15 engine or should I buy a special crankshaft?

Do you recommend .12 or .15
Thank you

[Figit090]

hey all, i have a question about a purchase i passed up a few days ago and i'm wondering if it was a bad choice.....

I was in a hobby shop and asked if they had any used rc's...i was looking for a monster but he pulled out his only truck which was a used xxx-nt sport in brand new condition....

the seller wanted 250 for it....

i turned it down because i have a t-maxx and wasn't sure if i'd be happy going to a 2wd, low ground clearance vehicle that one of the guys said wouldn't be quite as happy doing big jumps but long smooth ones.... i.e. not quite as tough as a monster would be (i figured that anyhow...but whatever)

but anyway...what do you guys think?

the thing was owned by a kid that wasn't exactly up to the complications of a nitro truck and his mom wanted him to get some of his money back.... there was no dirt on it and the knobbies looked like they hadn't even been run yet.... so either this kid ran on soft dirt and is a pro at cleaning or he ran it 10 feet on pavement.

the only problem was the pullstart chord lost it's knot...a simple re-wind is the only fix it needed.

[Casper]

Sounds like a pretty good deal to me. Weather you want a stadium truck or not is up to you. These truck jump great and can handle punishment but will break if abused just as your monster truck will.

[Figit090]

yeah.... i figure it would handle a lot, i was suprised how much the lectric buggies handle when they race, they slap down on the ground all the time and don't seem phased...except a few suspestion parts popping loose they dont seem to break

are there any good aftermarket parts for stadium trucks to make them tougher? i thought maybe some alluminum arms and shock towers would make it just about unbreakable... i dunno. i'm just itching to blow some of my money on another RC and need to pace myself.... i dont know what i want and when i see a smashing deal i almost immidiatly jump on it.

[winning edge designs]

Figit, watch out with the aluminum stuff when it comes to arms, since they sometimes will bend. Although this seems better then breaking, a $40 arm that is bent hurts more then a broken $6.00 one............................Jim

[cullum1228]

(Hope I am posting correctly, as this is my first new post)
I am building my first kit and have a question for you guys. I just started my AD1 last night. While I was putting the gearbox together I noticed that I was missing the 3/16 x .015 shim that goes on the slipper shaft. It is part # 84 on page 16 of the manual. It seems like it would work ok without this shim. Will I get premature wear due to extra slop without this shim. I am dying to get this thing together and at 2AM this morning my mind told me to go ahead and put this all together without the shim. Now I am having second thoughts.

Should I take this thing back apart and wait on a new shim to arrive? :(

[offroadcrazy01]

Have you guys tryed the 2 stage pro-line tire foams ,and if so do they make a diffrence,also have you guys tryed any other combo of tire foams and how did they work for you

[winning edge designs]

cullum, If it is the thin shim(no book handy right now) it will be fine, although if you can get one I would install it when you can. If it is the molded shim that is about 3/32-1/8th inch you need it to run the truck and keep everything in good shape.

offroadcrazy, I have tried all kinds of foams, but find they only really help or hurt when the track is super high bite, or very loose, most tracks are in between, so the stock foams seem to work very well most of the time.

Keep in mind I sometimes have a hard time buying $4.00 or $5.00 foams after buying all the other things needed to go fast. So there has to be a very noticable difference for them to be in my tires and that has not been very often..........Jim

[Figit090]

Figit, watch out with the aluminum stuff when it comes to arms, since they sometimes will bend. Although this seems better then breaking, a $40 arm that is bent hurts more then a broken $6.00 one............................Jim

yeah, i realised that and haven't bought any alluminum things that can bend for my t-maxx...i'm going either all RPM or RPM and some alluminum on that truck, aside from the must-be-aluminum bulkheads...

but i'm looking into getting another truck for bashing, and probably some track time but very little if any racing (because no local sanctioned racing exists and it would be on my own track)

do you guys have any suggestions? I've always likes stadium trucks but i dont know if it would suit me, i saw 1/8th nitro buggies race and a big block engine looks like a total blast....

its hard to know what to do :confused: :o

[winning edge designs]

Figit, the 1/8th scales are a blast to drive, but if your looking to improve your skillz, that may be the single worst class you can run. I've seen good drivers become animals after a year of 1/8th scale and no other class. It makes you overdrive and feel invincible, which in any other class leads to broken stuff and wore out stuff and can hurt with the wins if you race other classes. Imo, 1/8th is a good class if you continue to race other things. For pure driving skill, practice with a 2wd electric buggy or electric truck, then gas truck would be next if your only into gas, the XXX-NT or AD2 is an awesome truck!...Basically, 2wd, since they require throttle control and are a little more fragile you'll drive better...................Jim

[Racin Rev]

Jim, i agree in principle with what you said about 8th scale. You cannot drive anything else like an 8th scale without tearing it up (truggies might be the exception, but then, they are 8th scales). What i am not sure about is that you can drive 10th and 8th and be competitive with both. I ran dual classes for two years and was very successful with the 10th but i just wasnt ham fisted enough to drive 8th scale fast. I kept reverting to the subtle style of the 10th which isn't fast with the 8th. In that I was concentrating on the 10th i didn't really care. I might just be too old to shift gears but they are so different. I perfer the subtlity of 10th though many people perfer 8th because they are easier to drive. I also quit running two classes because it is too hard to do proper maintenance on either car. On the last race of the season last year i had a tq on my mf2 but somehow the gear mesh tightened on me and i didn't have time to do a proper once over. when the main happened It was slow and eventually did a thermal shut down. what a dissappointment. with two classes there is little time to hang out and watch the races or schmooze with the other racers. for me that is a good share of what this hobby is about.

[winning edge designs]

Racin Rev, True, it is alot of work to run multiple classes. Here in Florida we run all kinds and do farely well. Since I work with and race with my friend Jason Ruona and have been able to see him win 1/8th, gas truck, 4w modified and 2w modified in the same weekend at a Florida state series race, it motivates me as well.
At a few of our state series off road events i've managed to do well while running 5 classes, 2 gas and 3 electric on 2 seperate days(gas saturday, electric sunday).

Did I mention I also run on road as well..................We won't get into the painting bodies for people rather then preparing my equipment, LOL...........I just love racing and if I had to give up anything it would be 1/8th scale as well, since it requires alot of attention, which is time I don't have much lately. I would definately keep my XXX-NT AD2..........ttyl, Jim

[Racin Rev]

I don't think that i have ever raced anywhere where there are more than 7 cycles per round, usually less (lets see, race in two marshal in two that leaves three left, about fifteen mins to get everything ready on both cars). My job doesn't usually allow weekend travel ;) but I would guess a big regional race or an area with a large draw would allow a little more time to prep between rounds. I have yet to see a venue where you can run off-road and on road at the same time. thank goodness. :p

[winning edge designs]

Racin Rev, haha, ya, on road is seperate luckily. For our off road state series we usually have 130 or so on saturday for gas, about 14 or 15 heats, then about 100 or so on sunday for electric, which is usually about 11 or 12 heats......Plenty of time if nothing breaks, etc.........:), Jim

[YZ167]

Hey guys I was thinking about buying a sport version 1 because they have good deals on these compared to the newer RTR2. I use to own a FT Gt when I got out of this hobby a few years ago. I purchased a BK XXX and I bought a rc18mt which I think I'm going to sell the 18 to get a rtr xxxnt. I still have my starter box, great servo's, glow ignitors, and my Temp Gun =Þ. I read the reviews on these trucks, and they are ready to go out of the box with a legit motor, awsome radio, great design, and with all the room for the hot ups as I need to make it an AD or AD2!

I was a curious if my starter box will work on the pull start motor as it is or do I need to buy a non pull start mount to make the starter box work, thats how the FT Gt was?

Also, does the Os .18 really drop in this truck, that is unreal? Can the stock tranny on the xxxnt handle that boy without to much damage being done or will consistant maintenace with the diff make it alright?
Thanks,
Jacob


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP5&P=0

[XXXNTMAN]

Hey I have a question. I haven't ran my car for a while b/c I didn't have an engine. But, today I got everything back and put in. I started it up and it immediately started reving really high. I mashed the brakes and it slowed. I was wondering what would cause that problem. Could it be a servo problem or does it have to with the engine.

[winning edge designs]

XXXNTMAN, it sounds like the lever, or linkage on the carb is in a different spot. Try closing the carb, loosening the nut for the lever, make sure the carb is still closed and turn on the radio and receiver, then retighten the nut. This should get your carb lever in the same spot as the old one..........Jim

[XXXNTMAN]

Thank you winning edge designs. I actually figured it out. When I put the arm for the throttle servo i twisted the arm and opened the carb. So when it was relaxed I had it opened almost fully. But thank you for your advice.

[XXXNTMAN]

Hey, now I have a new problem only this time it's with my starter box. I have an O.S. .15 CV-R and it is great. But, when ever I put it on the box it just spins the flywheel. I was using a pull starter but then it blew up and now the spring doesn't work. Well I was wondering if any of you had had that happen to you and what you did to fix it.

[dkj-M3]

Clutch nut may have loosened up. Flywheel may be stripped.

[Racin Rev]

I had a lot of trouble with burning through collets for a while I think that the fix was to shim it out on the shaft a little. Can't remember for sure though.

[purplerides]

The clutch nut needs tightening for sure. Check your collet it may be damaged and if it is it will reloosen again. The collets and shims are cheap i'd just replace them. The flywheel should be ok but check it , the brass collet usually isn't hard enough to hurt flywheel. check shimming and the clutch nut , a burr in the nut threads may prevent you from tightening it all the way , i've seen that happen it's not that common though. Don't run the motor without the flywheel tightened though it won't run real good anyways esp. at high rpms.

[winning edge designs]

The flywheel collet will wear if the flywheel nut is not tightened sufficiently. Once it manages to start spinning on the brass collet, it will be wiped out pretty quickly. It is important to tighten the flywheel nut to the point where you start to wonder if it may break the bolt.......Of course you don't want that though, haha. Also, use red locktite, which will not only make it nearly impossible to loosen by mistake, it will need to be heated for maintenance or removal.........Jim

[Nate2o1]

Quick Question for someone who wants to answer this, whats the largest engine i can drop in my XXX-NT, I currently have a Wasp .18 in it, and its got twice as much power as the new Mach engine that they have in it. only thing is, the slipper back plate touches the clutch bell just a bit, i mean it didnt do anything as far as performance wise. but anyway, whats the largest size engine i can put in this lil monster, the .18 is already big, couldnt use stock mounting had to "revise" it a bit. but its all good.. i dont mind doin those things. any suggestions on my next engine would be good.

[winning edge designs]

Nate2o1, the limit is only as deep as your creativity and wallet!

If an .18 will fit a .21 should be close too? I only use a .12 in mine and has tons of HP for a 2wd 1/10th truck on an off road track.

I recently saw in a magazine a monster truck with two .70's! that is the same size as SEVEN .21 engines almost!

Of course it may be easier to just get the Schumacher truck with a .21 and three speed trans that does 80mph, I drove one, so I know how easily it will blow over backwards at speed, LMAO.

If your racing, then a .12 is the max legal size, but for play, no limit.........:), Jim

[Nate2o1]

Thats a good point Jim, it might be easier to just get a faster truck and definately probably cheaper, but i like my xnt, since you brought up the three speed for the schumacher, is it possible to throw in an extra speed on the xnt? yeah, i havent raced yet, only bashin. so i have no worries bout legalities. i want speed! only thing is, keeping the front tires on the ground. i havent found a surface that i get good traction on. any suggestions on a set of rear tires that doesnt expand so much like the stock tires, im in the process of a rebuild anyway since i tore of my rear rims.

[winning edge designs]

Nate, it would be tuff, you'd likely end up adapting the 2 speed from a truck like a schumacher, or the whole transmission then getting a motor, etc. It will end up being a frankenstein after a few mods I would think...........There are no parts that will fit your Losi trans for a two speed and there isn't a clutch bell available to do it either using the threaded style cranks..........Sounds like the Dr has some work to do? :).....Jim

[XXXNTMAN]

BTW Nate, as for tires I have pro-line gladiators for the back and proline blades in the front and they work great off road.

[cullum1228]

I have the AD1 and am wondering what quality the pipe is that comes with it. Should I go aftermarket and if so what brand is good? I currently have an .18 Wasp in it, but have a new .12 CV-R to put in it once I get ready to race.

[Casper]

The Drake pipe is awesome. I would not replace it!

[winning edge designs]

I also have tried several pipes and keep going back to "the Drake" pipe.......Jim

[Figit090]

i'm just wondering, i read a post on this page regarding putting a bigger engine than a .18 in these trucks, and i'm wondering what exactly that's going to do that would be an advantage???? wouldn't the .18 already be enough to keep the rear tires spinning like mad and the front flipping over backward? it just seems like .21 would be overkill but maybe not? Can anyone tell me how a truck this size would act with those two engines? I have seen it done though in an rc10gt (new era kit) and like also posted, the shumacher menace... but, is it still controllable with that kind of power?

[winning edge designs]

Figit, it isn't a good idea and would actually be much slower on a race track with an .18 or a .21....But that never stops someone with the time and money to spend on a toy truck that goes really fast in a straight line and breaks more often.

I would recommend someone who wants to go really fast and especially on the street to just get an 1/8th scale on road car. These cars can handle the power and use it ALL to reach speeds in excess of 80mph while remaining in control!.....(reasonable control for the speed at least, LOL).................Jim

[Casper]

Yeah that is assuming you have super human reflexes to control something going 80! LOL They will put down that kind of power and turn while doing it but that is for the guy who really has too much money!

[nitrohouse]

I see it all the time, and it just isn't a good idea. These trucks were only designed to handle so much, (which is already too much in my opinion) and then to put a larger engine in it effects the vehicle in several ways. To start off all the suspension was designed to acomidate a certain size and weight engine, and with a larger engine the suspension will need to be readjusted. And even then there is no guarantee that you will get it to work well enough to make it worth while...There are alot of Pro's and Con's to larger engines in stadium trucks, and all that really matters is if you are having fun, then go with it.

Have Fun...Help Others...Burn Nitro...

[dkj-M3]

seen it done, you'll have to hack the mess out of 1/4 of the truck. Use double/tripple belted tires. just to keep them from burning up & ballooning out of control. The guy that did it drag raced them, 2wd truck only. He had the old Sirio Buggy motor in it. Was about 2 years ago.

[low10s]

what up? i have an ad1, and i need to gain some off power steering going in the corner. you have to tap the brakes a bit to get it to turn sharp. i run red springs in front with 35wt, orange in rear with 35wt. one washer under front camber link, arms level. rear hubs full forward with cvd's level. shock locations are like in the "dirt setup" on the Drake setup. thanks in advance

[dkj-M3]

put the entire Drake Dirt set-up on it minus tires(tire of choice at your track)
the rear arms should be level not the bones.
the dirt setup has great low speed steering. hope this helps

[low10s]

will try it again. tried it once did okay but the track i am running on is hard clay so i was using is rough slippery setup, but still wasnt just how i wanted it.

[winning edge designs]

Low10-'s, I run my front camber link in #3-B, with two washers under inside ballstud. I also run 30wt oil front and my arms are level as dkj posted.
There are still some tight 180's that will always require a tap of the brake, since no set up will allow the truck to turn while carrying too much speed for the available traction.
If there was a set up to accomplish this, then it would be nearly impossible to drive at speed, like in a sweeper, etc. So it's always a compromise........Good luck, Jim

[dkj-M3]

will try it again. tried it once did okay but the track i am running on is hard clay so i was using is rough slippery setup, but still wasnt just how i wanted it.

I don't know how your driving style is, but try braking/slowing (don't let them lock up) before the turn, let it coast around the turn, straighten up & then punch it, or ease into the throttleif it's slick.

But like Jim say's there are some turns that are so tight you'll have to tap the brakes to get it to rotate.

Also another thing to try is run the front arms, just a bit above level. But try the stuff 1 at a time & see what happens.

[cullum1228]

Anyone know what size allen wrenches I need for my XXX-NT?

[Casper]

.050, 1/16, 2mm (5/64), 3/32. I do not think you need a 2.5mm. That one I think I only use for motor screws on electric cars. Get a good set like Team Losi, MIP, Hudy, AE. Make sure they have "Ground tips" made from tool grade steel. That way they are high tolerance and strong to not strip your screws. The smaller three are really important to be good wrenches so you do not strip you screws.

[cullum1228]

.050, 1/16, 2mm (5/64), 3/32. I do not think you need a 2.5mm. That one I think I only use for motor screws on electric cars. Get a good set like Team Losi, MIP, Hudy, AE. Make sure they have "Ground tips" made from tool grade steel. That way they are high tolerance and strong to not strip your screws. The smaller three are really important to be good wrenches so you do not strip you screws.

Thanks for your help! That is exactly what I am doing as I am tired of these cheap wrenches I have now. Seemed like the way to go, but in the long run it should be well worth the investment.

[mailboxck]

Hi,

I'm kinda new here. I just got a XXXnt RTR II. Got it 2nd hand from a friend. I had a RC10gt before and comparing the 2 trucks, this XXXnt is a heavyweight! Will it affect the car at all?

I've got all the graphite parts in as well, i know its lighter, but is it better? It's more prone to breaking right?

[purplerides]

mailbx- the xxxnt isn't that much heavier then the GT maybe slightly. The main thing is the weight is down low that's why the chassis plate is thick. To keep the weight down low and chassis from flexing. As far as breaking more , no not really some claim the XXXNT breaks easier , i haven't seen it. I think the adage that Losi's break easier then the GT's goes back to it's gtx/nxt days which are Losi's earlier gas trucks which without a doubt broke easier then the GT's. The earlier XXXNT's broke a little easier then todays but with the newer material and designs of the shock tower and batt. box. Which i think puts them on par or slightly better then the GT's crash worthiness.

[mailboxck]

purplerides, thanks for the reply. I sold my older gt coz the design hasn't changed for around a decade or more and that just bums me out. How would you compare the standard plastic arms with the graphite arms? Is graphite better?

[winning edge designs]

I have always enjoyed hearing from a GT guy how their truck is indestructible.....Usually it isn't long after that conversation that they are coming off a run on the track with a stripped spur gear, or stripped idler gear. They of course also pop off ball cups in crashes.......

It's almost like GT guys just don't talk about their problems, it might make the Losi look like a better more advanced truck? I know if I drove the 10 or 12 year old truck that still wasn't "perfect", i'd be quiet about my problems too.

Not that the GT isn't a "good" truck, but none are "perfect"......;).

Mailboxck, I like graphite better, in all but very cold conditions, for handling, slight weight benefit and more durable in "most" crashes.....Jim

[mailboxck]

When i had both trucks on my pit table last saturday, a local race veteran came up to me and looked at my cars. He gave me a brief description of both cars.

He said, the GT was a monster when it comes to acceleration, but the XXXnt was the wins it over on the bumps and corners. The GT is too old, but surprisingly performs well, the only prob is the chassis flex at the back.

Which is a better front tire? Proline edge or Losi's A-7507

[winning edge designs]

I know at our last state race I ran step pins all around and my XXX-NT2 was pulling wheelies like mad.....Of course one of the GT guys was compaining about too many wheelies, while I had just enough to be cool without it being a big problem. Obviously this can change from track to track.

XXX-NT2's qualified TQ and second that race, btw. The mains got rained out.

I haven't had much luck with Edge tires up front, they seem to push and then get grabby at weird times. Lately i've been running rear tires all around my truck. Steps in the wet and King pins or holeshots in the harder conditions. We ran tapers all around at the TeamLosi Championships race at the same track a few months back when it grooved up very nice.

When I do run front ribs I like the Razor ribs, or Razor pins from TeamLosi..........Jim

[mailboxck]

I just came back from our local track. The xxxnt is a lot heavier than the gt. What i'd like to brag is that the xxxnt could easily keep up with a OFNA hyper 7 with a sirio engine. And i'm only using the stock .15 engine from the rtr2 at half throttle around the track!!! This thing is mad! I just need to blip the throttle on the jumps to keep the nose up.

[mailboxck]

Got the set up rolling. Used edge front tires and rear bowties. The Car handled beautifully. It just drifted through corners effortlessly and i just had to put small corrective steering to keep things striaght.

Just one problem, the outmost row of tread on my bowties had worn out a bit. I guess my tires deformed while cornering. Is there any way to cure this? Or is this a bad sign?

[Casper]

You can try and add a little more rear camber so the tire stays flatter through the corner but this could also effect fwd bite. You can try it and see. The outside of the tire will just about always wear out faster then the rest of the tire as this is what is giving the side bite.

[losifreak2004]

Unless you're mad-punched like me, then you slick the whole tire pretty evenly....haha.

[mailboxck]

Am just a bit worried that i might wear out my tires quickly and lose some of its potential. The middle part is still ok though.

I met a local racer with a rtr1 version. His suspension set up was really soft compared to mine and his was completely stock trim. Is the stock set up a good base set up?

[losifreak2004]

That truck isn't so much soft as in under-dampened. It makes the truck really mellow for blasting around the backyard, but it's not always the fastest way around the track.

The Drake set-up is a great starting point for heading to the track.

[mailboxck]

There's 3 jumps at the end of the long straight of my local track. I usually take it as a double single. The big buggys do it as a single. Am just a bit cautious of my car. Since my nt is quick enough, i decided to gun it down the straight and took it as a single! :D Boy did it fly! It landed well, bottomed out a bit tough. After a few laps, the rear batt box broke :mad: The screws on the top is still in tact. The lower screws broke, but the box is still in place so i was still able to play for the rest of the afternoon.

[Casper]

They have upgraded the material in the battery box with the AD2. It should take more abuse but this is what happens when you hang that battery out on the back and you land on it. Glad you had fun!

[losifreak2004]

Trinity-powered XXX-NT AD2's TQ'd and finished 1-2 at the fifth round of the Southern California Saturday Series! Adam Drake's fourth win of the season locks up championship #4 and five in a row for Losi/Trinity...I won the other :-)

[winning edge designs]

Sweet, keep up the good work out there!................Jim

[losifreak2004]

The final round of the series is in two weeks, followed by the Sidewinder Nitro Explosion; the Reedy Truck Race is at the end of October, and I think that about does it for our race calendar for the year. Time to put my head down and finish up strong :-)

[raz9]

Hello, this thread is a bit down so I will try to fire it up with some questions. I´m going to buy an xxx-nt sport rtr 2 and what is the stuff that i really need to buy(stuff that breaks easily, recommended batteries and charger etc etc) and what are your recommended hop-ups for this ride? I´m going to a trip to NY soon and I would like to buy everything I need at the same time because in Sweden where I live, everything is so god d*mn expensive so it would be pricy to buy it there. Also, do you know anny good hobby stores on manhattan and where are they?
/Rasmus

[raz9]

Also, do you know which frequency the radio system comes with? 75 or 27 Mhz?

[Casper]

I am about 90% sure it is 27mhz. I guess a question back to you would be are you racing it. If you are just going to play around the yard with it the truck is in pretty good shape strength wise. It has been a while since I broke anything on my truck. Get a GP3300 or GP3700 pack. Stick unmatched packs will be fine if you are not racing. These will give you excellent runtime and should only cost around 30-40 USD.

[raz9]

Maybe this is a stupid question but are you talking about the electric version because I´m not. Or do you mean that I should use the gp 3700 for the rotostarter?

[Casper]

Dang it wrong forum! Sorry. Gas truck huh. I would get a 1400 mah XXXNT hump pack then. They have 4 cells on the bottom and one on top. These keep the mass a little lower then the 2X3 packs but those will fit in just fine also. Parts. Get an alum rear pivot block. I would say that is the weakest part of that car. You will still need a battery for the ez start system. I would not worry about a name brand battery but again get at lease a 3000mah 7.2 stick pack for this to make sure you get plenty of starts between charges. For a charger get something that has adjustible charging rates like the superbrain 959. They are AC/DC (not sure if it is rated for european power though. You should try and get something that will charge the roto start 7.2V batter with about a 4 amp charge rate but will also charge the reciever pack which should not be charge at more then 1 amp. This comes with the same radio which again I am 90% sure is 27mhz. Stock servo's are pretty good for an RTR. Maybe want to pick up another set of crystals if you are running with friends to make sure you do not have freq conflicts. You might want to pick up some titanium balls studs also. Get 2 sets of .388 (long ones) for the rear shock tower and the front bulkhead. Maybe an extra shock tower also. The stock ones have been known to break with the all the way outside setting normally run on that truck.

[mailboxck]

Things you need for an rtr 2:
RPM Ball cups
Ti Turnbuckes (stock ones are ok but in case you break them, better replace them with Ti)
Spare arms and shock tower (graphite are stiffer than plastic which is good for handling but breaks easier)
Spare spurs (just in case)
New set of tires (bow tie in the rear and edge in the front coz stock ones are too hard)

That's pretty much it. Mine's pretty much stock except for the graphite parts. The stock servo in the rtr 2 is aready high torque so no worries about that. You just have to get the set up right and you're good to go. By the way, there's a small plastic thing inside the fuel tank. Its to bring the fuel capacity to 75cc for it to be race legal but if you want, you could take it out to give you extra run time

[raz9]

Hi again, I found a pretty cheap losi ad1 with mugen mt12 on ebay. And I wonder, what is the difference between ad1 and ad2? this is the ad:
THIS IS AN AUCTION FOR 1 TEAM LOSI ADAM DRAKE 1 1/10 USED TRUCK. IT HAS A MUGEN MT .12 BIG HEAD MOTOR THAT HAS LESS THAN 1.2 GALLON THROUGH IT. TONS OF COMPRESSION! IT HAS A HITED 645 MG STEERIGN SERVO AND A HITEC 625 THROTTLE SERVO. IT HAS BRAND NEW PREMOUNTED LOSI STEP PINS IN THE REAR. THIS TRUCK IS ABSOLUTELY MINT CONDITION! THE DIFF IS MINT. TRUCK WAS ONYL RUN IN THE DIRT 2 TIMES AND UP AND DOWN THE STREET TO BE TUNED IN! PLEASE DO NOT EMAIL WITH AN OFFER. TAKE A GOOD LOOK AT THE PICS!!JUST CHECK MY FEEDBACK RATING FOR ANY CONCERNS!!
Do you think it´s a good buy for 240$?