Team Losi XXXNT forum v9.0

[Casper]

The AD2 has the VLA arms front and rear, a lightened chassis, revised rear drive bones and alum rear hubs with Quick release rear wheels. You can convert this truck to the AD2 for about $100. That AD1 is a great truck, but the suspension revisions to the rear end really do help with rear traction especially on slick tracks. That is a pretty good deal on an AD1 package though. It is not great but fair price for used equipment.

[winning edge designs]

raz9, yes it is! The engine alone(if in the condition stated) is worth almost $200. You can upgrade to Ad2 spec after a while if you want. The main difference is the rear suspension and driveshafts. The bodies all interchange and there are some other small changes, like rear shock tower is beefier, milled chassis, etc..............Jim

[raz9]

This then, should I buy them instead?
Wow!!!! That's all I can say about these trucks. Both are race winners. There is so much included, I don't know where to start. They are adult owned and maintained. These are my babies, but I'm building a house and my wife says it's time to grow up. Kinda harsh ain't she. lol

Any way, there are two trucks both are ready to race. In one pic. there is no motor. That is because I don't own a digital camera and I was rebuilding the motor when a friend took the pics. The motor not shown is a Fantom fr 12. This truck was ran in Roar 12 class and won regularly. Nothing very speacial, but very quick. The radio, also not pictured, is a simple Futaba installed. I ran a synth. radio but I'm not selling it. It has titanium with RPM ball cups. Most parts are stock to comply with ROAR rules.

The second truck......sorry I had to wipe away the tears. This truck is awesome. It ran in the unlimited outlaw class. With a good tune this thing will ride on the back wheels all the way down the 35ft. back strech!! ( That's not very good when racing, but extremely fun.) It also is a race winner(16 of 24 last season). I guess I'll start from the back. It has a newly rebuilt tranny with aluminum diff gear and Acer bearings, kevlar spur gear, 18 tooth clutch bell,aluminum 3 pc clutch, O.S. 12tr engine that was profesionaly ported and polished(wicked), with performance filter, 10j big bore carb, aluminum head, graghite and titanium everywhere, new threaded shocks with nitride shafts and sox, RPM ball cups, Drake tuned pipe, on board temp guage, Novarossi header, aluminum skid plates,and AMB RC transponder mounted with lightweight aluminum mount that can be used on both trucks. The radio installed on this truck is a JR Racing XR2i, almost new.

There is also MANY extra parts, some new some used but all useable. Lots of Trinity aluminum all NEW, dog bones, lots of hubs front and rear, complete set of shocks, shock towers, control arms, bulk heads, kick plates, pivot blocks front and rear, ball bearings, 2pc teflon clutch and spring, everything you need to rebuild the tranny, y connectors, switches, brake kit, onboard temp gage, batteries , One complete set of Proline tires on Losi rims( only ran once), chargers and bat. I also have another unpainted Drake 2 body, and starter equipment for both trucks.

I know there is a lot I forgot to mention, so if you have any questions, email me, and I will answer as soon as posible. Thanks for looking and happy bidding!!!!!

There isn't enough room to insert all the pics. There are a lot more spare and new parts.

I can get them for $. Is it a better buy? The os has gone about 1 gallon and the other one has been rebuilt with new sleeve and not driven since.

[traxdan]

Hey anyone got any solutions to my truck stalling out when i apply the brake for more than a second?? another question is when i go full throttle the truck bogs down a little bit and stays sounding like it is getting too much fuel but off the line it seems to be running great the full throttle thing has been happening ever since it came out of the box any suggestions would be helpful thanks

[rcnutz]

i'm going to buy a xxx nt graphite drake edition but i need a motor for under a $100.00.. what would be recommended and where to buy? Also it says it comes with tuned pipe and manifold, so i guess i won't need that..besides motor and radio equipment do i need linkage for carb and throttle or no! it just recommendes diffrent motor sizes.. i just want to know what to get.. i reviewed the info from horizonhobby.com.. thanks for feedback shawn.. :confused: :rolleyes: :D

[winning edge designs]

traxdan, it sounds like one of two common problems. The most likely is an idle setting that is too low, or a low needle set too rich for the idle setting. Turn on your radio and the truck with the engine off and check to see if the radio is controlling the idle. To do this remove the air cleaner and look into the carb, the push the brakes on and the carb should not close at all....if it does try opening the idle setting(air gap) at the idle speed screw slightly and adjust the throttle trim so the brakes are just off from dragging. Then start the engine and check your idle speed, which may need low needle or further speed adjustments.

rcnutz, There are only a couple of RTR style engines for under $100, like the engine that comes in the RTR XXX-Nt, or an O.S. CV...there is also the used engine route.
The truck comes with all linkages needed, clutch and servo horns, etc. But you'll need a decent steering servo and be sure to use only FM transmitters if possible(best and safest)......Jim

[Casper]

You can get a CVR for $109 at places.

[rcnutz]

Thanks guys for the info.. shawn :D

[RustlerBoy]

Shawn, I just sent u a PM regarding a new motor i can sell you



I just picked up a new ADAM 1.... It has a OS 12 CV(which has already been sold) in it right now, but came with a new not even broken in Fantom FR12 (which will go in). They are both bumpstart and i have the starter box.

Now, for the wuestions. What hopups or parts shold i uy for it right away? DO i need to change any gearing(or should I) for the Fantom? What else do i need to make this thing hardcore? I am used to racing top o da line off road electric modified, so i know I may have to spend some money, but what extra parts, back up parts, etc do i HAVE to have...

thanks

[Casper]

I would get a set of superduty tie rods and run the new gray ball cups and titanium ball studs all around (steering ballstuds do not need to be titanium) Also upgrade the rear pivot block to alum (trinity sells one for the AD1) I would also get alum rear hubs as the stock ones will split over time. I would have extra ballstuds and rear shock towers on hand at all times. Some extra front arms (upgrade to the VLA arms and caster blocks as they are much stronger). The FR12 is a great engine. Make sure to seal the area around the high speed needle and the carb to the engine case with racers edge carb seal or some high temp RTV. Instead of using the Z bend wire for the throttle I use the slide carb threaded rod and a 2-56 ball stud and ball cup from dubro to make taking the engine out of the car easier. Also if you do not have the pressure nipple on the tank coming out of the tank lid by a new gas tank. The engine will not flame as easy when it is upside down with the new tanks with the pressure line in the cap. Hope this helps.

[mailboxck]

Do you guys change the universals to CVD's? What difference does it make?

[Casper]

Almost everyone I know that drives or has driven the AD1 used the universals. They are better on rough tracks you normally drive gas trucks on. CVD's would be better if you track is smooth but other then that stick with the universals.

[winning edge designs]

mailboxck, I have run both, but I went back to universals because they were more durable and I didn't need to replace them nearly as often. There is also handling difference, but it didn't seem like much, so I went more from maintenance then tuning with my choice.............Jim

[mailboxck]

Thanks for the info. :o

By the way, when do you guys do routine diff rebuilds? Am kinda new to ball diffs and not really sure what to do.

Do you have quickfixes to broken rear batt boxes? I broke the lower mounts and left them as is. Gladly the upper mounts are flexible.

[winning edge designs]

mailboxck, I rebiuld my diffs about once every 5-6 months, unless something feels like it is going bad before hand. I don't run the truck every weekend though, so for a track time reference i'd say about once every 3 hours on the track. Usually three to four races with half hour mains.
When the diff and slipper are set right i've gone until the outdrives are toast and hurting handling, then replaced the entire diff(except inner bearings).

For battery box, if your not running the AD2 box yet, try it out. I haven't broken one yet.......Jim

[Saboteur]

Man I'm sure missing my Sport NT right about now. Anyone know if there is a way to fit an SG on the AD2 or is it just standard shaft ? I still have the MT12 (got it back when my friend traded me the CD3 pro for my 8th bug).

[Casper]

It is not possible unless you can find a clutch that will fit on it.

[winning edge designs]

Sabotuer, Some have told me the RTR GT clutch parts use a SG crank? Check at your local shop.....Jim

[raz9]

Anyone that has the adam drake edition .12 with blue top? How do you like it? I have just picked one up, anything I need to think about?

[Saboteur]

Sabotuer, Some have told me the RTR GT clutch parts use a SG crank? Check at your local shop.....Jim

Oh no the GT uses the IPS. That's not the same as an SG. Well looks are the same, but size isnt. I think they said I'd have to use the TMAXX clutch wheel assembly to make it fit. Only problem is the LHS don't have GT parts...much. It's all AE NTC3, and LOSI offroad stuff.

[winning edge designs]

Ahhh, ok, sounds like a crank or an entire engine will be what's needed then......Jim

[traxdan]

Hey guys i was wondering if there was anythhing i could do to make my xxx-nt do a wheelie?? thanks dan

[winning edge designs]

traxdan, mine wheelies alot on high bite tracks, but if overdone they slow you down in races. But for alot of wheelies if your just playing around you need to run the steering servo in the back position. Also you can use a very stiff rear spring like silver or blue losi ones and add rear anti squat(shims under pivot block).
The last thing and most important is to use a tighter clutch setting. You can do this by shortening the clutch spring by 10-20 coils and also lightening the shoes by removing material fom the furthest out end away from the pivot pins.

After these mods if your engine is just half way decent wheelies will be plentiful on decent traction surfaces, like the street or low dust tracks, etc..........Jim, jconcepts dot net

[TravisR]

Just wondering if anyone knows if the spin start back plate will work on the orig RTR Mach .15. Just thought for $5 it would be worth it instead of P/S. Thanks for the help.

[Monsterbrad]

Ok all you 1/10 scale guys that love these XXXNT's
Answer this
How is the Mach 15????
me and my buddy race truggy and are looking to race 1/10 scale and we are going to be buying the rtr 2 version.
How is the engine?????
I know the rest of the truck is pretty good I had 2 a long time ago.

[winning edge designs]

Travis, I don't have any experience with that spin back plate, sorry.

Monsterbrad, the mach .15 is a great engine, especially for an RTR engine! It will provide plenty of power on a budget, definately run it and see for yourself. I'm thinking of selling my almost brand new TZ since it's too much HP and going to a CV-R or even a CV.......:).

....Jim, jconcepts dot net

[TravisR]

Thanks for the response Jim, I just have to try and see. I'm pretty sure $5 won't break the bank.

[smigs]

I am picking up a XXX-NT RTR Sport this weekend and it has everything but the engine. I have been trying to figure out if I could use a short shaft engine. I found a post in this thread and it says that one can be used with more locktite added so the clutch nut (I assume??) does not come off. The engines I am looking at are the Duratrax .18 and a O.S 15CV. I just want something to play around with and not to race. Any help??

[Casper]

Yes you can use a short shaft motor in the NT. You need to thread lock the clutch nut anyway and with the short shaft you will have less threads in engagment with the nut but it will work. I would go with the OS for ease of tune. It is nice to have a motor you do not need to fool around with to run consistant. Have not worked much with the durtrax motor but with OS you cannot go wrong.

[smigs]

Casper, great! Thanks for the quick reply. Other then better parts (graphite, aluminum), what are the differences between XXX-NT, NT sport, AD1, AD2?

Thanks again!
smigs

[Casper]

The AD2 has a completely revised rear end and VLA front arms. The NT and sport have plastic suspension and the AD1 just has all the alum, graphite, titanium and other losi hop up parts. (threaded shock bodies, titanium nitrite shock shafts etc.)

[smigs]

Ok, so the NT, sport, and AD1 parts are interchangable. Just trying to get everything figured out! :o

smigs

[Casper]

100%. There are some small things like the RTR uses larger steel tie rods so you want to use the RTR ball cups as they fit better and the RTR diff gear is black but that is the only difference between it and the AD1. It really is only materials. The molds are all the same and the parts are 100% interchangable. The AD2 revised the whole rear end. The only parts interchangable are the tranny, battery box, rear shock tower, and the rear shocks.

[dapper_dan]

So is the RTR-II based on the same parts as the AD2, like the RTR is based on the same parts as the AD1

[winning edge designs]

No, the RTR II does have a number or updates, or improvements, but it is still based on the AD1, most of the new parts are for durability and appearance.

....Jim

[2fast2slow]

but if i was to get the RTR today, and the A-Arms breaks should i get the carbon fiber ones off of the AD1

[Casper]

I am not sure you can buy the RTR ones. You will either need to get std plastic or graphite. I would get the MF2/AD2 front arms as they are much stronger. They added a lot of material to those arms.

[2fast2slow]

So the MF2/AD2 A-arms are stronger, and lighter, than the plastic one.

[Casper]

I would not say they are lighter but they are stronger. They are made of graphite which is a little lighter but with all the extra material I am sure they weigh more but you will have to work hard at breaking one of these new arms!

[dapper_dan]

Let me ask you guys (and gals) a question. There seem to be a few manufacturers who offer aluminum parts (especially a-arms), but most of the racers at the track i run at don't use them. The people at the hobbie shop say you want to stay away from it. Why, it seems like it would be much better then graphite or plastic.

[Tim'sLosi]

Let me ask you guys (and gals) a question. There seem to be a few manufacturers who offer aluminum parts (especially a-arms), but most of the racers at the track i run at don't use them. The people at the hobbie shop say you want to stay away from it. Why, it seems like it would be much better then graphite or plastic.

Easy...the weakest link breaks. Would you rather replace an arm or hub or would you rather replace a pivot block? It's best for the arms to flex and give their lives as needed to save more pain in the rear repairs! Same goes for metal spur gears.

[winning edge designs]

dapperdan, there are other factors as well. Aluminum is WAY more expensive and it tweaks, rather then breaking. I've seen so many bent aluminum $50 arms it's a bit silly. Not too mention they are usually heavier and aluminum and steel hinge pins don't mix well, leading to corroded metals that are difficult to dissassemble if left together for too long.

:)...Jim, jconcepts dot net

[dkj-M3]

i have never broke the AD2 front or rear stock arms. I have been running the front arms for almost 2 years & the rear for a year. just replaced them when they wore out. But I don't crash that much though.

[dave mac]

AD2

Ive broken one front because i hit a pole lo in the air, their supposed to brake then lo

Rear arm I do brake a little more often, but only on big jumps that i land wrong.

[dapper_dan]

dapperdan, there are other factors as well. Aluminum is WAY more expensive and it tweaks, rather then breaking. I've seen so many bent aluminum $50 arms it's a bit silly. Not too mention they are usually heavier and aluminum and steel hinge pins don't mix well, leading to corroded metals that are difficult to dissassemble if left together for too long.

:)...Jim, jconcepts dot net

Thanks. I'm new to this and our track has lots of big double jumps. Needless to say I have gone through many parts and was wondering if Aluminum was worth it. The graphite ones are doing much better. I'll stick to those. Thanks for the advice all.

-dan

[smigs]

Here is another question. I bought an engine that comes complete with flywheel, clutch, and everything. However, these parts are for an RC10GT. Can I use any of them for the NT? I am in need of a flywheel, flywheel shim and collet, clutch shoe and clutch spring.

Thanks,
smigs

[winning edge designs]

smigs, you may also be in need of an engine, since the GT guys cut the crank shorter, circa 1977 when the GT was designed(inside joke).

You will need to change out to the Losi parts, flywheel and all. Superior Hobbies should stock all of it, they have a website.

If your really lucky it might work for a little while with some red thread lock, but the clutch nut will only grab about 2-3 threads of the cut crank and will usually cause trouble with loosening.

good luck...Jim

[Got Dirt]

Is the AD 1 still available? If so who has the best price? How much better is the AD 2. And finally, Which motor is the best bang for the buck .12 size.

[Casper]

The AD1's are probably out there. The AD2 is stronger. You need an alum rear pivot block though. (rock concepts makes a great one) All the sport kits are based on the AD1 truck design. The AD2 rear end is much more stable in my opinion with more rear traction.

I am a true believer in the OS CVR. There are faster engines out there but this has great "useable" power. It is not a slouch by any stretch. They hold a tune really well and the best part is they are just over $100.

[dapper_dan]

The AD1's are probably out there. The AD2 is stronger. You need an alum rear pivot block though. (rock concepts makes a great one) All the sport kits are based on the AD1 truck design. The AD2 rear end is much more stable in my opinion with more rear traction.

I am a true believer in the OS CVR. There are faster engines out there but this has great "useable" power. It is not a slouch by any stretch. They hold a tune really well and the best part is they are just over $100.

What are the differences in the CVR(s). There seem to be a few different kind. Which ones fit in the XXX-NT and are Roar legal?

[winning edge designs]

Dan, stay with a barrel carb and threaded crank, all .12 size CV-R's are legal.

...Jim, jconcepts, W.E.D.

[smigs]

I am in need of a flywheel and clutch shoes. Can I just get this kit (for the AD2)? If it is only $10 more, then I would have the spares.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6015476430

Thanks,
smigs

[Casper]

The clutch for all losi gas trucks is the same. It will work just fine.

[Got Dirt]

I just assembled an AD 1 with Os CV. The exhaust port gasket is aluminum and appears to be leaking because there is alot of moisture around the base of the motor collecting dirt. Any suggestions on how to seal up the header to motor connection?

Thanks

[winning edge designs]

Got Dirt, i've had the best luck with the paper gaskets. Horizon/TeamLosi has them available on their site or they are available from retailers.

...Jim
jconcepts dot net

[dkj-M3]

i use the fiber ones by losi.

[Got Dirt]

Thanks for the responses. I put a paper gasket in tonight. I don't understand why Losi would put an aluminum gasket in a kit, then tell you to wet it before installation, go figure. Hope the paper one works w/o leaking

[losiboy288]

anyone make more springs for the xxx nt

[Casper]

Why-- Losi makes a complete range of springs. I use a spring closer to the top of the range on the gas truck but there are 3 springs stiffer and 5 springs softer. I am guessing you are talking about shock springs correct?

[losiboy288]

yes my truck smacks the ground hard during landing

[Casper]

It is not a big deal that the truck hits the ground. As long as it does not bounce a lot it is pretty normal to bottom out. If you set up the car to not hit the ground it usually does not handle very well. What springs, and oil and pistons are you currently running?

[party_wagon]

When you land you want the front end to be slightly lower then the rear end. If you will take a look at your trucks shock geometry you will notice that the front end is actualy made to dampen this style of landing. Your truck will still hit the ground. Generaly when you run a rough track you want to run softer springs. If your springs are too stiff your car will bounce and this means you will accel and handle poorly. It also means that those shock towers may break. Just imagine if those shock towers took all that load that you here from when your truck smacks the ground. You want the springs stiff enough to keep your car responsive in turns, but soft enough that they will keep those wheels planted on the ground when your truck comes down from a big jump.

[winning edge designs]

Losiboy288, keep in mind that springs do not keep you from bottoming out, that is really the oil and final shock damping setting doing that job.

The springs control the weight transfer and support the weight at rest as well as during chassis use(accel, turning, braking). Oil controls how the shock and springs transfer the weight, ie, fast with thinner valving, slow with heavier, etc.

Slower damping(smaller piston hole/valving or heavier oil) helps reduce bottoming but can also reduce traction since it slows wieght transfer.

It's always a compromise, so experiment and see with trial and error what works best for you. Or you can save time by talking with the local fast guys to see what they are up to.

...Jim
jconcepts dot net

[losiboy288]

thanks i have a feeling you all are going to be alot of help!! i have another Q i have a ofna picco ..12 on my ad1 is that a competitve motor if not what do you recomened i want to race in roar

[Casper]

It will be a great race motor. The carbs wear out on those motors though so be careful to make sure the carb does not develope an air leak as this will cause the tune of the motor to become inconsistant and that can shorten the life of the motor. An OS 10E carb with a carb adapter will help with holding the tune on the motor. Other then that the Picco is a great motor that produces good power and will be a great race engine.

[losiboy288]

in the instructions it says to turn the main needle on the motor 3 turns from flush, flush with what? ofna picco .12 roar legal

[Casper]

http://www.ofna.com/eng-picco-roar.html

If you have this motor then yes it is legal. Flush is usually flush with the top of the needle body. That is unusual they tell you needle settings from bottoming out the screws. To have a roar legal motor it needs to only have 3 ports and limited to .12.

[losiboy288]

thanks

[4 stroken ron]

This is a very helpful group. A lot of what I need is probably buried somewhere in this long thread.........but I am going to ask again. I got a used XXX-NT from Ebay, and a new XXX-T rtrII for Christmas. I have made several repairs to the NT and today I got them both out to run. I didn't get much run time on the T (battery low) but from the short runs I got I can tell the new T handles much better than the used NT. The NT pushes real hard in a fast turn. The front end just slides out. I have brand new red directional ribbed tires on front. The rear has new silver step pin tires. The XXX-T has the tires that came with it. The XXX-T will hang right on in high speed turns, hardly any pushing at all. I am running on cleared frozen dirt, little bit of a loose surface. Could it be the NT has the Diff a little to tight? I noticed it is a little tighter than the T. Could that make the NT push?
One good thing about having both of these cars is I am able to compare them, then I have to decide what I like best. If these 2 cars are set up about the same, shouldn't they drive about the same?
Thanks for all your help
Ron

[Casper]

Not really. The gas truck has a much different weight distribution and the rear end geometry is a little different. I would check the setup and start with the "drake" setup you can find on the losi web site. If you have a original NT then I would try the tires from the T on the NT to see if it is just tires or if there is some other setup issues you are having. With is being used you do not know what the setup is on it. Red directionals should be giving you plenty of steering. The diff being too tight (as long as it works) should not be the leading cause of this problem. Without knowing you current setup I would have a hard time telling you what changes to make to fix you current handling problem but the drake setup has a lot of steering.

[4 stroken ron]

OK Casper, that is a good plan. I will find that "Drake" set up and go from there.
Thanks
Ron


BTW Is there any good set-up tutorials anywhere? Kind of like, If your car does this........................then you need to adjust that.
Is that asking for too much?

[party_wagon]

You should be able to find a tuning guide for a xxx-nt some where. Team losi.com has a bunch of setups you can try, both agressive and non agressive.

[losiboy288]

what do i need to change my ad1 to a ad2 or is it possible

[Casper]

Check out my web site.

http://home.socal.rr.com/casper04

it is under the info sheets link.

[Got Dirt]

Anyone heard of Roc Concepts? I have been told that they make alum. pivot blocks for the XXX NT. Tried to do a word search on Yahoo for an email address, but had no luck.

Regards

[dapper_dan]

I have a few questions for you all:

I have been running my NT-RTR2 for a while now and my diff died. My transmission is making clicking sounds when I punch the throttle. I had a couple of the local track experts look at it and they say the diff needed to be rebuilt. They said there might be something else that's causing the problem. Anyone have any suggestions? Also -what's involved in re-building the diff? What warning signs should I look for as i rebuild it?

Thanks for the help

[losiboy288]

from what i have seen on here i need the whole rear suspention right? and get the front arms becouse thay are stronger

[losiboy288]

how does the qwick release wheels work? can i use my ad1 wheels

[Casper]

First thing. Rock Concepts did make an alum rear pivot. They have gone out of buisiness though so finding one might be kind of hard.

If you want to switch to the AD2 rear end you need to basically everything from the chassis out in the rear end. The tranny battery box and shock tower are the only things you do not need to replace. NO you canNOT use the AD1 wheels with the QC rear end. The quick release rear wheels have a lever you push down to take the wheels off the truck. This type of system has been used on 1/8th scale onroad cars for years but this is the first time they have been used on an offroad car.

Diff-- Replace the diff rings and the thrust bearing. Everything else should be able to be reused. Follow the instructions on how to build the diff from the assembly instructions in the manual that comes with the car or get the manual off the internet at www.teamlosi.com. Use losi or associated clear grease for the diff balls and use Associated Black grease for the thrust assy. The losi white stuff does not work or last as long as the AE black grease.

[winning edge designs]

Casper is on it as usual!

:)...Jim

jconcepts dot net

[losiboy288]

cool!!!! also casper great website

[Casper]

Thanks :)

[losiboy288]

witch motors are roar legal and will fit my nt http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg1995.html

[Casper]

Any 3 port .12 size motor will be legal. You can run the OS CV (least power) CV-R great power highly recommend, or the TZ-T3. This motor will have the most power but may be uncontrollable on a lot of offroad tracks then tend to get blown out by 1/8th scale cars. This motor is rear exhaust which will give it more bottom end the the CV-R and with the turbo plug it should have some screaming top end as well. Which ever motor you get, get one with a standard threaded shaft. SG style shafts will not work with the NT. Also make sure it is not the short threaded shaft like the second from the left. This crank is for AE cars and although it should technically work for the NT the NT clutch nut will have a much greater chance of backing out with this style of crank. Good luck with your decision.

[losiboy288]

thanks !!! sorry about all the Q,s

[losiboy288]

also tower says they don't the cvr anymore

[MikeWz]

Finally ordered an AD2 after about 2yrs of not having an X-NT. Will a side exhaust motor fit in? I'd really like to drop the '05 FR-12 in there but they've only got them in side exhaust

[Casper]

Yeah a side exhaust will fit in it and be a great motor. Taking away a little bottom end in the motor with a side exhaust actually makes the truck a lot easier to drive.

[Casper]

also tower says they don't the cvr anymore


Tower has them in stock

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ72&P=ML

[MikeWz]

Thanks. Glad to see you're still around Casper. Dunno if you remember me, but I remember you being around back when I had a RTR a few years ago.

I got an FR-12 with rotary carb too, because that should help the power delivery to be smooth as possible (slide carb is too fast for 2WD off-road IMO).

Just a few more questions before my kit arrives. Am I going to have to buy a side-exhaust header? If so, is there one specifically for the XXX-NT or do I just buy any random one?
Also, what starter box are you guys running? I dont' have one anymore so I need to order one of those.

[losiboy288]

i have an ofna and the paint was pilling off. it as starting to rust so i sprayed it with some spray on bed liner and it works great, on the pipe if it is a side mount pipe you should be able to use a ad1 or ad2 pipe

[Casper]

Yeah you handle looks familar. With 3300+ posts I can't imagine we have not crossed paths before! LOL :) Still trying to help out where I can!

LOSA9345 Exh Manifold,NPS:Drake XXX-NT 14.00

This is the header you want. Losi makes another manifold that is a little higher but if you can find this one it will keep the pipe nice and low and snug to the chassis. The other one raises the pipe up a little to clear a pull start but works as well. Both are made for the NT. Slide carbs will work in 2wd but you have to get the setup just right and a little exponential in the radio helps. Rotarty smooth things out which help a lot with 1+HP in a 4 pound 2wd car!

Starter box. I use this one

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUC2&P=ML

The NT just fits on it. The AE trucks are not wide enough to use this box.

This one works as well but the motor sticks out the side.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHZE2&P=7

Losi makes one just for this car as well.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA99060

I like the ofna boxes with the larger motor. It is a little bit of over kill for 10th scale but the motors start right up no problem with them. I see too many people fighting with the dual small motor boxes and stick packs. Gas can be enough of a pain getting the motor tuned to worry about a starter box. Get a 12V gel cell for the box as well and you do not need to worry about the battery being charged all season as well. Put 2-3 days charge on the battery to get it full and it should last you at least a couple months. That is my opinion. The small ones will work but again they are more of a pain. If you want a smaller motor box get the losi one as it is already setup for the truck so you do not need to screw with getting the pegs in the right spot. We needed to drill a hole to in the large ofna box to get a peg where we wanted it but not that it is setup right, starting the truck is a breeze.

[losiboy288]

It will be a great race motor. The carbs wear out on those motors though so be careful to make sure the carb does not develope an air leak as this will cause the tune of the motor to become inconsistant and that can shorten the life of the motor. An OS 10E carb with a carb adapter will help with holding the tune on the motor. Other then that the Picco is a great motor that produces good power and will be a great race engine.
were do i get the carb and adaptor

[Casper]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBCH1&P=7

Tower has them.

You want to run an OS 10ER carb.

[losiboy288]

i have some o.s. carbs is there any way of telling witch one i have

[losiboy288]

mine says 10e on it

[losiboy288]

also is there anything i can put in the turnbukle ends to make it easyer to adjust them

[winning edge designs]

Use some of the white assembly grease (in the kit)on the ballcups before intially threading them onto the turnbuckles.
After some turning they will be a little easier to adjust.

...Jim

jconcepts dot net

[MikeWz]

Glad to see W.E.D is still around too

Anyone with the ADII have any assembly tips before I get mine and tear it open?

[Casper]

Losiboy-- You have the right one. The R just designates a rotary carb!

Mike-- The most important tip in building the car is the two screws that thread into the rear hub. The new instructions say not to use the washers but I am not sure why. It may be for increased thread engagement. Here is the important tip though (again covered in an appendix to the new instuctions) Spray off the screws with motor spray prior to applying thread lock to get any oils or grease off the screws. Then after you apply the thread lock wipe the excess off so the thread lok is only in the grooves of the screw and then install the screws into the hubs. These screws are very prone to backing out and you will break rear arms because of it. If you spray off the screws the thread lok works a lot better. Wiping the excess thread lock off the screws keeps you from locking the screw to the bushing which will bind the suspension. Ther rest of the kit is pretty standard losi stuff. One last thing. I run a cap head screw instead of the button screw for the rear hubs also.

[losiboy288]

casper > how do i need to set that carb up on my picco

[winning edge designs]

Be carefull with the thread lock, I have stripped hubs trying to force the screw from the bushing I unknowingly glued it to with excess thread lock. :)

...Jim

jconcepts dot net

[losiboy288]

HELP ME i have put my motor picco .12 back to factor settings and put a new glow plug in it, now if i give it gas it revs but qwickly dies

[losiboy288]

my temp gun says it is right at 200 degs

[winning edge designs]

Losiboy, it can be too lean, but at factory setting you'll usually end up on the rich side. hmmm.

When you punch it does it blubber (ba ba ba baaa bbaaaaaaaaaa, die) and then rev and stall? too rich.....OR
When you punch it does it hesitate (uhhh, baaaaaaaaaaa, die) then rev and stall? too lean....

I would try a half turn on the high needle in each direction and note the change, better or worse. If a half turn richer makes it worse, go a full turn leaner, etc.
Keep track of every turn on note paper if needed.

These carbs are simple if we can avoid getting frustrated. The low needle only helps the low end and the high needle only effects the high end, but can also have some effect on the low end if the low end is off.


If you need more help just ask and one of us will try, Jim

jconcepts dot net

[losiboy288]

i think what happens is when i give it gas and let off and then go to give it gas again it dies

[4 stroken ron]

When you punch it does it blubber (ba ba ba baaa bbaaaaaaaaaa, die) and then rev and stall? too rich.....OR
When you punch it does it hesitate (uhhh, baaaaaaaaaaa, die) then rev and stall? too lean....
jconcepts dot net

OH! that is nice work there. Do you mind if I save it and use it again somewhere later? :D :D

[4 stroken ron]

I recently got a XXX-NT and a XXX-T both are rtr. Because of bad weather I haven't got to shake them down much. I have been reading everything I can and checking out all the chassis adjustments. But there is one adjustment I can't get my head around. What is this about washers under the front camber link ball studs? I just can't see that a washer or 2 under that ball stud would make that much difference. :confused: :confused: Can anyone explain it to me.
I am a newbie at these trucks, :D :D after years of airplanes. :) :)
Thanks much
Ron

[E-MO]

try this put truck on level surface press down on front
when pressed down look at the tires are they leaning is?more than likly they are

now put a #10 washer under the ball stud on both sides
repeat the steps above, notice how the tires stay more upright
what it does is eliminate camber lean when the front end is compresed
go over to www.thedrake.net for set up sheets

[4 stroken ron]

E-MO I will check that. Nice day here today. Got out to shake down the trucks. The NT doesn't want to turn while excellerating hard. Seems the front end gets very lite and slides when I am hard on the throttle. Is there a way to correct this? Except stay out of the throttle... :D :D Boy that tiny OS CV12 runs GOOD.
The XXX-T, on the other hand turns pretty good when excellerating hard. Is it because there just isn't as much power there? :confused: :confused:
I like both trucks a lot. This is going to be a fun summer.
Thanks
Ron

[E-MO]

Ron i had the same prob on my drake,lousy turning
would push real hard til a jab of the brakes would settle it down
then turn in would be set

here is another thing i did to help initial turn+ some on power turn
find the servo saver take the cap off & tighten the nut down tight
you will notice a huge improvement for on-off power steering
LMK how it works.

E-MO...

[MikeWz]

Well...ordered the AD2 with an FR-12 rotary carb a couple of days ago from stormer. It said that everything was packed and all, now it says that the motor's on back-order and they don't give any kind of expected stock date (but I could swear it said 3 in stock when I ordered). Hopefully it won't be too long. :(

[losiboy288]

i now have a pile of losi, after i got my motor strait i was out running it and the gas got stuck and it hit a tree! the motor was wide open and it blew before i got i it. so now the pipe and mani is bent a ,the whole left side is gone and the chassis is bent so i guess its a reason to conv to ad2 stats

[losiboy288]

were can i find a Nova Rossi CX12R2 at

[Casper]

If you really did all that just get a new kit and "salvage" the old one for parts! LOL

[Casper]

www.ultimatehobbies.com has the CX12R2N

They have them there and will ship for free. I think they are $179

[losiboy288]

If you really did all that just get a new kit and "salvage" the old one for parts! LOL
i wish i could get a new ad2 kit but i dont have the $

[winning edge designs]

Losiboy, that is an excellent engine if your great at tuning. If not stay with a nice CV-R and you can concentrate on driving and setup rather then trying to keep it running.

The novarossi' have gotten better, but the O.S. is almost like running electric!

...Jim

[t9dragon]

Does anyone make after market screw kit for the XXX-NT? I'm having problems with the stock screws.

[Casper]

The stock screws are usually pretty good. I would stay away from Stainless Steel screws. They may look good but they are not as strong as an alloy steel black oxide screw. www.fastener-express.com is a good place to get bulk screws from. There are others out there but I do not remember the links right now. Lunsford makes titanium screw kits but not sure if they are worth $100. Are the screws breaking or are you stripping them?

[t9dragon]

They are stripping out. I also had to go and buy a couple of allen wrenches because the screws were a size than what I use on my other trucks.

[Casper]

What tools are you using? To work on these cars a lot you really should invest in a good set of tools. Losi, MIP/thorp, AE, Hudy all make great tools that will greatly reduce your chances of stripping out the screws. You really need the right tools. These wrenches are a little pricey but they really do make working on the car easier with less headaches. For the Losi gas truck you will need the following wrenches. .050, 1/16, 3/32, 5/64(2mm), I am not sure I use my 2.5mm on my gas truck anywhere. I am pretty sure the motor mount screws use the 2.0mm. The AE set is probably the cheapest. Then the losi sets are sold in metric and standard sets. Hudy makes two levels of there wrenches. The make there alum handle set and a "profi" set with plastic handles. I have a set of the profi tools that came with my XB8 and they are really nice wrenches but I like my MIP wrenches the best. If you are still using Bondus or allen key "L" wrenches then the problem you are having is not with the screws but your tools.

[t9dragon]

I guess part of my problem is I got the truck used, who know's for sure what screws the other guy used. I have a couple of different sets of wrenches, but not the ones you mentioned. So the Losi screws are Metric?

[Casper]

All the losi screws are standard (inch). The 5/64 screws (motor mount screws and I think one a couple of the tranny screws) use the 5/64 which is the same as 2mm wrench. You need a set of drivers that have ground tool steel tips. These tools will fit better in the screws and will not wear out. This really is the best way to ensure you do not strip any of your screws. The losi black oxide screws are high quality. If silver SS screws are used these are a softer metal and will strip/break easier.

[t9dragon]

Hey casper,

If you have yahoo IM, message me my name is ninedragon992. It's a lot easier for me to chat on there while I'm at work.

[Casper]

I cannot IM at work. You can e-mail me at nielsen_d@yahoo.com

[winning edge designs]

Also remember that dirt in the allen area of the fastener can make it so your only accessing 1/2 of the depth available or so sometimes.
Clean out the screws very well with a hobby knife tip and also use quality tools.

Even with these methods sometimes the engine mount screws will be frozen due to the fast they thread into aluminum and are often over threadlocked. This means a dremel with a thin cutoff wheel and a flat blade screwdriver will be needed.


..also patience, :).

...Jim

jconcepts dot net

[Racin Rev]

I grabbed one of my wife's straight pins and put it in my pit tool box. before i remove or put in anything i use the pin to clean out the hole.

I tried coating the bottom screws with bob divleys once, but it didn't work.

[Casper]

I would try Wd40? I have an old hobby knife I use just for cleaning screws. I have another one that has a sharp blade for cutting but use one that already has a broken tip for cleaning out screw heads.

[MikeWz]

Does anyone make after market screw kit for the XXX-NT? I'm having problems with the stock screws.

Also a word of warning. DO NOT get titanium screws unless what they're going into is either titanium as well, or plastic. Titanium and aluminum react and will weld them selves together never to be taken out again

[Casper]

That is not true. The alum should be anodized. I screw titanium ball studs into alum rear hubs all the time and have no problem taking them out.

[MikeWz]

I suppose if you have anodizing the coating will protect it. What's anodized on the NT though? If you get brushed aluminum parts and screw titanium into it they'll get stuck. I learned the hard way

[winning edge designs]

There is also the problem of wear in the anodized parts causing, or allowing contact. If they contact each other they will try and fuse together if you don't constantly strip down your car.

...Jim

jconcepts dot net

[dkj-M3]

i had that problem with the old blue hubs, but don't seem to have that problem with the new AD2 hubs.

[jettabob]

Hi guys !! I own a team losi xxx-nt for a year now and i bought an O.S MAX .15RX engine with an SG type crankshaft. I'd like to know what do i need to mount it right on my xxx-nt. I mean, what kind of flywheel-clutch-clutch nut do i need ? If you have a web site i can buy it, that would be appreciated :) ThX

And by the way, if somebody knows this engine well, plz tell me :)

[Casper]

If you use thread lock when you put titanium into alum then the thread lock will act as a barrier between the parts. I have never had an issue getting a titanium ball stud out of an alum part.

All AD2 alum parts are hard anodized.

[t9dragon]

Does anyone know where I can get either an aluminum or carbon fiber upper deck for the XXX-NT?

[Casper]

I do not know of anyone that makes an alum upper deck for the NT. I assume by graphite you mean carbon fibe and not graphite molded plastic? There is a guy on ebay who makes as a carbon fiber chassis.

[t9dragon]

Who is he? I have a Hardcore Racing Titanium chassis.

[Casper]

http://cgi.ebay.com/Losi-XXX-NT-Carbon-Fiber-Chassis-xxxnt-Trick_W0QQitemZ6030689242QQcategoryZ44028QQssPageN ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Here is one of the auctions.

[t9dragon]

Do you know of anyone that does the upper deck?

[Casper]

Again no.

[dapper_dan]

One-way bearing problem?

My roto-starter is not starting my engine (.15 rtr). It's not flooded, it just doesn't seem to do anything when i try to start it. If i run the starter at a very slow speed it will turn over - but not start. Is my one-way bearing going out?

[Casper]

That would be the first place I look. Those bearings do wear out quite often.

[rezenclowd3]

Hey guys! I just bought my first stadium truck, and of course it was the XXX-NT. Unfortunately its not the AD1 or 2, but I will go that route when I break the arms. I was looking at Hole Shot Engineerings page, and I know from discussion that the shock towers break quite easily, do you guys think it would be worth it to buy the 7075 Aluminum ones that HSE makes?

[Casper]

I would not say the shock towers break easy. The new AD2 towers only have 3 holes instead of 4 and seem to last a lot longer. I would not go alum. It is just extra weight.

[rezenclowd3]

So would the AD2 towers work on the regular NT?

[E-MO]

www.dacemfg.com

check out the losi tower brace ,i have one and i have had no breakage since

[Casper]

Yes the towers are fully interchangable. The AD2 towers were molded without the upper shock mount holes and they drill 3 holes now instead of molding in 4 holes. This change in how they made the towers has made them much stronger. The Dace brace is nice also but I like the lunsford titanium shock mounts (I have broken normal shock screws off before) so I have not tried a brace yet.

[ufo_banshee_00]

where is a good place to order the ends of rear shock shaft.... ( the part that threads on to shaft and mounts to rear suspention arm)

Or am i gonna have to spend 20 bucks on some new shocks.....

Thx for info

[slimj25]

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/StoreFront

[dirthobby]

OK guys have some questions!I have the NT RTR first version w/ mach .15.Im thinking about the fantom .15 with treaded crank will I need anything extra for my stock flywheel and clutch asembly to work with this motor?

[rezenclowd3]

I recommend if you change motors, you also get the MIP clutch flywheel. The losi one has screws in it that can cause a headache.

[E-MO]

UFO banshee

i use the associated shock ends
the i/d is smaller giving more bite
they wont pull out now

[dirthobby]

Will I need a different clutch nut or anything?I dont know much about the different crankshafts.Is the one in the mach .15 a pilot shaft or standard threaded?

[E-MO]

standard shaft

[dirthobby]

Thanks guys! What do you think of Fantoms FR12 or FR15 good or not?

[rezenclowd3]

What do you guys use to tune the truck camber and toe in/ out wise? The RPM camber gauge seems easy, but overly simple. For my 1/10 onroad I have an integy setup board that I use and that is very accurate. Is there a setup board for 1/10 stadium trucks or would that be overkill? Also measuring toe in/ out with the RPM gauge also seems like it would not be too accurate.

[Casper]

In offroad close enough is good enough. Since the track is not all that consistant (dirt), things like tweak and camber set to .25* really does not make a difference in setup. The RPM gauges work great for offroad as they get you in the ball park which really is all that is needed for offroad.

[winning edge designs]

True, plus there is parts deflection, ballcup end play, etc. to deal with, so adjustments are ballpark even in on-road.

...Jim

[rezenclowd3]

So I finally had my offroad truck assembled and was able to run it. On the third tank I stripped some tranny gears:-( Found out when the brakes stopped working and giving it throttle wouldnt do anything but rev the engine. Arg. I think I blew my diff too, as the wheels turn way too easy in the opposite direction. Dang OS .18 CV-R. It did pull wheelies on demand though.

[winning edge designs]

rezenclowd3, slipper is key, no matter what engine, if the slipper slips before the diff the tranny will live a long time. Obviously, you don't want it to slip a ton, but just a little slip will keep the driveline shocks and diff loading to a minimum.

:)....Jim

[rezenclowd3]

Ya, I knew that, but just don't know what a slipper slipping sound is like. I tested the method where one holds both back wheels and gives it about half gas, and the truck would almost lift both wheels off the ground, and the diff seemed tight like the manual says. I gotta pull the tranny apart and see the damage.

[rezenclowd3]

So I checked the tranny and all I blew was the diff gear. I bought the truck used, and that is the one thing i did not check. The actual gear is not stripped, but where the diff balls go, they blew their housing holes. Haha. At least its a cheap lesson.

[Casper]

Check the diff this way. Holding the right rear tire and the spur in your right hand and then turning the left wheel, you should see the slipper shaft rotating. If the left tire moves and the slipper shaft does NOT, then you need to tighten the diff or loosen the slipper. This check needs to be done before the first run after a rebuild and again after the first two runs. If you can get through the first two runs with the slipper looser then the diff and the slipper does not lock up you should be good for a long life diff!

[rezenclowd3]

Ok, that sounds good. I also checked the nut that the diff screw holds onto and that was stripped too.

[Casper]

ALWAYS replace the diff nut when ever you rebuild the diff. It is cheap insureance you diff setting will stay good.

[rezenclowd3]

Ya, I just replaced it and the new one also stripped. I noticed that after my 2nd run the diff was slipping before the slipper, so I tightened the diff a little more and oops. The slipper was set pretty loose too. Hmm, seems like these diff nuts need more thread.

[winning edge designs]

What happens is alot of time the diff gets overtightened so racers can run a tight slipper. The best thing is to adjust the diff just a little tighter then you would in an electric truck, then set the slipper to slip first without tightening the diff any more. Once you run a half tank or so thru the truck, recheck the slipper and diff settings and adjust as needed to get back to the same starting point.
The diff nuts work well if you have the black and silver one piece part.

...:), Jim

[Wonchie]

Hello all,
I am new to RC Nitro ,and have boughten a XXX-NT AD2 kit to mess around with. I need some advice for a engine&radio choice. I plan on going out to a local out door track and playing around. Any inputs on the engine,radio,and or any advive or comments about the XXX-NT Kit would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Wonchie.

[Casper]

Get an OS CVR so you do not need to worry about tuning the car. They hold a great tune and make good usable power and they are cheap. For a radio. Anything FM. The spectrum DX2 is a great choice for DSM and no need for freq clips. The airtonics MX3S and JR XS3 are both great choices for FM crystalless radio's on a budget but have all the needed features.

[Wonchie]

Get an OS CVR so you do not need to worry about tuning the car. They hold a great tune and make good usable power and they are cheap. For a radio. Anything FM. The spectrum DX2 is a great choice for DSM and no need for freq clips. The airtonics MX3S and JR XS3 are both great choices for FM crystalless radio's on a budget but have all the needed features.

Thanks for the advice and your time !!! Been looking at the JR as you also suggested.

[dirthobby]

Hey all,
I have the xxx-nt sport the first version.Im putting a .12 cv-r I need to know if the clutch nut on the mach .15 will work for the cv-r if not what
will I need to get?Thanks in advance...

[Casper]

Yes it will work just fine. Just make sure you have a threaded crank shaft (not sure the CV-R comes with anything else).

[TTRS3kid]

nvm....

[rezenclowd3]

I was trying to find the right diff and slipper adjustment when I noticed that the link between the universal yoke and rear axle was bending. I thought the link was metal. Is it? Is it supposed to be able to twist? I noticed mainly when I held the right wheel and slipper and tried to make the diff slip.

[Casper]

Do you have an AD1 or a AD2?

[rezenclowd3]

I have the sport version. I think it was the NT1 sport. I know its not the AD2.

[Revo3]

Hi all I have a Revo and replaced it's 2.5 engine with a Picco .21. I also have 2 XXX-NT's 1 of them I use for racing it has a Picco .12 the other which I use for bashing has a CVR in it. I was wondering if any of you has tried putting a much larger engine in ur xxx-nt such as the Traxxas 2.5? I looked at it briefly today b4 going to work and it looks like it would mate up pretty good. I know I'll have to change the exhaust on the 2.5 a bit possibly the engine mounts but until I inspect it closer I cant tell if I would need to change or modify anything els. Has anyone tried this? tnx Revo3 :cool:

[Casper]

You need to figure out how to get a clutch on it that will work with the NT. The NT does not work with an SG style crank shaft. The motor shoudl physically fit and al that but getting a clutch to work will take a little effort.

[winning edge designs]

The 2.5 will fit, but since it is only a .15 it is not really a surprise, since the RTR XXX-NT comes with a .15(aka 2.5) also.
What's more important is what .15 you install, the Traxxas 2.5 is a monster engine, but some of the guys are still using O.S. carbs, which makes a .15 CV-R sound appealing.

Either way it will be plenty fast!

...Jim

[rezenclowd3]

Ok, I am getting so pissed of at the diff in my NT. This is the third time it has stripped the diff nut within 2 days. I am following the directions in the manual and the advice given above. No matter what, the diff gets loose within half a tank, so I would have no chance at racing. I have the OS CV-R but am not jumping on the throttle or ever trying to wheelie it, so I cant be putting too much stress on the gears. If this keeps happening, I will be pissed enough to see how much damage I can do into a brick wall, then throw it away. I just dont get it, I have replaced almost all the parts in my tranny.

[Casper]

You do not have the slipper set loose enough. If the slipper is set loose enough to protect the diff you should not be having these problems!!!! You HAVE to do the diff/slipper check. Holding the right tire and the spur in your right hand, turn the left wheel until something moves. The slipper shaft has to move when you feel something give. If the diff is set to a resonable tension (something much less then what would strip out the diff nut) the slipper is too loose. Loosen off the slipper until it gives. As long as the slipper is giving the diff will last. That is the bottom line. Now if your slipper is too loose you can actually burn it up but if it is that loose you will not have any punch. Do the diff/slipper check after the frist two runs to make sure it is holding and the diff should last a couple gallons.

[rezenclowd3]

Ya, I have been doing that. That is why I am so confused. Everytime I set the diff and slipper, the diff does not slip when the slipper is locked down. Then I loosen the slipper till it slips almost smoothly. Still the diff tends to loose its setting after half a tank.

[winning edge designs]

It is possible that the thrust bearing has also gone bad. This would cause the diff to feel like a posi when tight, but also to loosen after a short run.

Have someone with some diff experience check it out thouroughly and you should be fine after another try.

...Jim

[Casper]

Replace the diff nut with the losi single piece diff nut everytime you rebuild. Also if you are tighening the diff so much it will not give with a locked slipper you may be damaging the diff nut this way. Start with the slipper in the manual starting point (4 full turns out and the diff should not slip from here. Due to the use of the coned washers you can overtighten the diff pretty easy. Using the RTR diff spring allows for a little more range in setting the diff, but I thin you are over tightening the diff when you build it. Only tighten the diff enough to make sure the slipper slips before the diff does with the slipper set to 4 turns out.

[rezenclowd3]

I will try it like you said with the slipper out 4 turns.

[losifreak2004]

Also...make sure before you set the truck down on the track after you've freshly built a new diff and set the slipper, to break in the diff. Leave the truck running on the starter box, and give it ~1/4 throttle to get both tires spinning. Grab and stop the right tire from spinning, then the left, then the right again. Hold each tire for 5-10 seconds and do this 5-6 times with each tire. This will allow all the parts to seat correctly and break-in before the truck is put under the load of trying to move itself on the track.

Many times after doing this, you will have to tighten the diff to stop it from slipping.

[rezenclowd3]

Never heard of that one, sounds like a good idea though. What about using a small amount of loc-tite on the diff nut?

[rezenclowd3]

So I did what you said and the diff still can not hold a setting. So I rebuilt it again. Still no go. And I am very mechanically inclined. Even after just turning the wheels opposite directions with my hands, still the diff lost its setting. I'm sorry, but this is ridiculous. After how many diffs I have rebuilt or new ones and this still happens, this just makes me very very frustrated. I really really want to race this class of truck too, but if I can't get the diff to hold, there is no way I can even drive it. I know the rest of the tranny is good b/c its brand new. I think the help you guys have given has been great, but there is nothing else you guys can do to help me out. Thanks again, but sorry to say, this particular truck is junk.

[Casper]

I can build it for you if you want to send it to me. If you are racing (which it sounds like you may at least be going to a track) talk to a local fast guy running the truck and ask him to rebuild the diff while you watch. There is something you are not doing right because more poeple do not have diff problems then those that do. I am not sure this has been asked. What lubes are you using. You just need enough diff lube on your main gear diff balls to cover them. Too much lube and the diff could slip from too much lube. I always use Losi or AE clear grease on the diff gear. I pack the thrust bearing with Black AE grease. The Losi white grease works well here also but most will agree the black AE grease is better.

[winning edge designs]

My diffs usually last as long as the outdrives do, this is when I rebiuld it due to wear. I melted one diff gear in all the years i've been running the XXX-NT(missouri nats).

It is not a matter of mechanical ability, in fact almost everyone makes mistakes when they start out already frustrated.

I would check with a local losi guy or a good hobby shop for some help.

...Jim

[party_wagon]

You don't have the thrust beerings in it. there should be a set of balls in the gear and another set that sits between a few washers in between the head of the screw and the out drive. Actualy they now sale the balls that go next to the screw and the out drive as a plastic washer type thing with the balls inbedded in it. The reason your diff doesn't stay true is because the friction between the screw and the outdrive causes the screw to become undone. The thrust bearing, these balls, will allow the screw to rotate without the friction caused by lots of pressure and metal to metal contact. This will allow you to tighten your diff down tight and not come undone. When you have your diff correctly assembled tighten it all the way down. Now wedge a piece of cardboard between your spur gear and pinion. Now grab the rear wheels. You want to spin them in a direction that will lift the front end up. You want the slipper just tight enough to allow it to slip right before enough pressure is aplied to lift the front end up. This will prevent your car from pulling wheelies which in turn will allow you to run straighter on straights. Now losen your slipper about 1/8th a rotation at a time. Rotate your tires and force the slipper to slip. Pay attention and make sure it is slipping. and not your diff. Continue to do this untill your diff slips and not your slipper. Once this happens tighten it back down 1/8th a turn to where it didn't slip and test to see if the slipper is slipping before the diff. If the slipper is slipping and the diff is staying put then you have one very dialed diff. that should last you for hours of driving time. If your diff feals grainy once you have done this then go out and replace the thrust bearing assembly, all the washers, the balls in the diff gear, and the two washers in the diff.

[losifreak2004]

Maybe try replacing the screw? There is no reason why it shouldn't hold a setting unless the diff is loosening up as the parts break in, and you're not tightening it to compensate for this.

[Duffil]

I've had a similar problem with mine. The instruction manual has you set the diff too tight. loosen her up, and make sure the slipper is working properly, and voila! no more smoked diffs...at least for me.

[EZM]

Alright so i got some gear and hopefully after this build up i will run the truck for the 5th time since i bought it new. Heres the pics, as you can see i dint hesitate to change and improve a few things as well as the gear installed.

http://imagecloset.com/8/02310513-IMG_0801.JPG
http://imagecloset.com/8/02110513-IMG_0804.JPG
http://imagecloset.com/8/02040513-IMG_0799.JPG
http://imagecloset.com/8/02160513-IMG_0796.JPG
still need to organize a few things ,but its pretty much done and tighty as you can see. alot more balanced than what the designers of the nt came up with.

[rezenclowd3]

Why the springs inside the springs?

[Casper]

Your rear hubs are on backwards. I hope your track has lots of traction. Without the battery hanging off the back , fwd bite is going to suffer. Also you might want to put that reciever in a balloon. Getting fuel all over the reciever is usually not good for reception.

[EZM]

The spring inside the springs is because i want my shocks to be stiffened up without putting in another oil weight or threading the shock springs all he way down.the hubs are good, dont know where they are back wards, the one on the pipe side says left and the other right so they are ok maybe yours are backwards casper! as for the receiver, i just plan on shrink wrapping the receiver with clear plastic as weel as the rx pack. other than that everything is good.

[Casper]

Here is a picture from the NT RTR manual. The hubs are offset forward with the ball stud facing the rear as you can tell by the shock mounts on the arm. It should not matter unless you are running 1* rear hubs. If you are running the 1* rear hubs and have them on backward you will only be left with 2* of toe in. It should make the rear end even more loose. Just trying to help.

[rezenclowd3]

Ok so I went to install the AD2 thrust assembly into my orig. NT truck as party wagon said to do...well not specifically but he said to use the ones in the plastic washer, which is what i got from my LHS, and guess what? IT DOESNT FIT! The washers are too big to fit into the outdrive. I now understand that Losi prob. changed the outdrives. This has pushed me too far. I am done with this. I have spend too much money trying to get the diff to work, only to find that what I was suggested does not work. If I were to get the new outdrives, would I have to buy new dogbones? Then would I have to get the new quick change hubs? Now I should just sell this truck and buy a brand new AD2! This royally sux! Even better is that the descriptions for the outdrives and part numbers are the same in my manual and the AD2 manual. SO WHY WONT IT FIT!

[winning edge designs]

All the thrust bearings are interchangeable, the best is the HD thrust bearing assembly, which is a metal cage and concave washers that have a larger surface contact area. This unit is usually held together with a small piece of wire and is the newest thrust part for the diff.

Keep in mind that the truck will have more rear traction and also be better balanced with the battery on the back of the truck. This is why TeamLosi's team of engineers designed it this way.
The wieght of the pipe will barely make up for the weight of the servo and it's mounts by themselves, so the battery on the right side is heavier now.

Also, if you move your pipe further up into the silicone coupler the truck will be more driveable(smoother powerband) and the pipe will have an easier time staying on the hanger. Try and get to about 1/4 to 1/2 inch maximum gap.

....Hope this helps, Jim

[rezenclowd3]

I have the H.D. small thrust bearing assembly A-3018, yet it will not fit into my outdrives. I know they should be interchangeable, but then why won't it fit? I am also going to go to my LHS for a little help, because this is just a joke.

[Casper]

It sounds like you may have a bad outdrive then. Losi has great quality in there parts but on occation just like anything in life not everything is perfect. Have someone who is familar with these parts take a look at it.

[rezenclowd3]

Ya, I will, but its not just that it barely doesnt fit, it doesn't fit by almost 1.5mm-2mm.

[rezenclowd3]

So I bought the old style thrust bearings to put in till the other issue is figured out. The LHS owner couldn't figure it out, unless he had an old batch for an older model he thought. For now it is fixed! Yay. I cant wait to take it to the track finally. You guys are great, and sorry for pouring out all my frustration here. I hate to get like that.

[Casper]

Good!

[Duffil]

no idea why they won't fit. I just rebuilt my diff last night with AD2 stuff and it fit fine. I don't have very much time on the outdrives, though...and they are stock 1st gen drives. i dunno.

[rezenclowd3]

Ya, my outdrives look like new. Once I can compare what I bought to another bag of the washers and thrust bearing ring, maybe Ill find out why.

[rezenclowd3]

So today I brought the truck to the track (revelation) and had a complete blast! I started with the Drakes dirt setup and wow it felt dialed. I never had a problem with the rear end getting squirrely on me. Of only broke a rear hub on a cartwheel, but the truck was used so I have no idea when it was last fixed. Now if only I can give it more brake action. I got the brake servo travel turned all the way up. I never needed the brakes except for in the air, cause I had it set to have some drag brake for entering the corners. I wanted to drive more but my fully charged bump start gell cell battery died on me today, cause I left it powering my glow plug when I took a lunch break! OOPS! Well, heres to you guys and your help! Cheers! I LOVE THIS TRUCK!

[winning edge designs]

Glad to hear it went well for you!

The Ad2 has beefier parts and aluminum hubs, but then locktite becomes very important, haha.

...Jim

[rezenclowd3]

Ya, I will upgrade to AD2 parts as things break. I have almost all graphite parts already on my truck, I just need the new arms and hubs pretty much.

[winning edge designs]

This just in, the TeamLosi AD2 takes FIRST, SECOND and THIRD at the 2nd event of the 2006 Florida state series in Hudson Florida at B&B hobbies!

Brandon Hershey(1st), Dave Bengston(2nd), Jim Myers(3rd).

...Jim

[derrick]

need help guy i have a xxx-nt i just got everything in and put it on it but i put out so much $$ on motor and pip and stuff i forgot about the little thing like the servo so this is my Q can i get away with race a 41-51oz servo on the oval to i get the pay and get one :rolleyes:

[rezenclowd3]

For steering you want 80oz/in but for throttle that 40-50oz servo would be fine.

[derrick]

o so i will need at lease a 80

[Casper]

Everyone I know who does not have enough brakes has the brake clips on the wrong way. Take a close look at the manual and make sure the little brake clips that hold the wire on are on the right way. The bottom clip should support the wire toward the back and the top clip should support the wire toward the front. Look at page 28 of the manual if you have it. That should solve your brake issues.

[rezenclowd3]

Ok guys, I need some advice. I am in the process of selling my RC18t and am getting $300 for that. So I figured that I would use that money to make my truck race ready. For steering and throttle I have the Hitec 625s but I think that I would like faster, as I have no problems with throttle/ brake control. (I have been playing violin since I was 9, so I have learned how to be uber-precise with my fingers.) Should I get super fast servos? Something with a speed of less than .10? (Like the digital airtronics) What torque should I go with? What would be too much torque? I have the OS .18 CV-R (race legal at my track) and do not have a problem with keeping the nose on the ground, and now that I have my diff/ slipper problem figured out, it is even easier. Or....should I just buy a decent .12 (OS CV-R, Fantom...) ALSO, maybe my setup is just fine? (I hope so, cause I want to get an Xray buggy soon) Tell me what you seasoned racers think...

[Casper]

The pro's only use a 94737 for throttle (.15 and 70 oz) as you do not really want anymore then that for throttle and brake in a truck. For steering. Faster and stronger are always better. Get a good airtronics or futaba servo. I have a futaba 9402 in my truck which is super fast. Other good servos are 94358, 94357, 94360. Digital servo's will drain your reciever pack a little faster but with the new 1400mah batteries this should really not be too much of a concern. .18 is a lot of motor for a 2wd truck. If you can handle it and it is legal then race it. I have absolutly loved my .12 CVR. After owning a .12 orion WASP, Nova Rossi CX12, and a Peak Diablo .12 rear exhaust I love the useable controllable power of the OS. It is plenty fast and can keep up with a lot of the italian engines out there and has been super reliable. I just finished 6th in the open class at the nitro challenge. I was not out motored by anyone and with the super rough track conditions a lot of the guys running more motor could not control it anyway! The best part the CV-R is only just over $100.

[Casper]

Also the Xray XB8 is an awsome buggy. I have been racing one of those as well for about 7 months now. Great buggy.

[rezenclowd3]

Thanks. So I guess I will just spend that $300 on the OS cv-r, the fastest airtronics digital servo (94658Z) and move my Hitec servo that I had for steering moved to throttle duty, as it had a fast response and enough torque. Then buy more spare parts, unless anyone else has some more ideas for engines/ servos.

[Casper]

Not sure what a 94658 is. I would go with a 94358 or if you want digital then 94758 but I have not heard of a 94658 yet.

[rezenclowd3]

The 94658 is the competition servo that has a .06 second transit time and a torque of 115. I figured I would go digital since I also have a spektrum unit installed.

[rezenclowd3]

Sorry, I meant the 96758. Too many numbers to remember.

[Casper]

94758-- That will be a good servo.

[rezenclowd3]

So Casper, I took your advice and ordered the 94357 because it doesnt have too much torque (125), and an excellent .07 transit time. I decided not to go digital because others on this forum said that they wear down faster in a nitro vehicle because of the vibration, which makes sense. Also can't wait to try the O.S. .12 CVR.

[Casper]

I am sure you will be happy. Those are great choices!

[winning edge designs]

Good choices in servos for sure. I use the equivalant in JR versions. Any brand name servos with over 100 oz for steering and a speed faster then .12 or so is good and for throttle anything better then 50 oz and .15 transit.

...Jim

[rezenclowd3]

So I finally got to take the truck with the new servo (94357) and engine (OS .12 CV-R) and hot diggitty damn. It makes my truck so much easier to control, yet extremely aggressive. The track I run at is perfect for this engine. (Revelation Raceway) Now I just gotta race it now:-)

[losifreak2004]

Good to hear! If I ever make it to Revelation for a club race, I'll make sure to stop by and say hi...I haven't been up there in quite a while!

[Casper]

I run all the CV-R at Rev also. It is a great engine. There are more powerful out there but not sure if there are any that are easier to drive, tune or cheaper!

[rezenclowd3]

If you see me, Im the tall college guy, short blonde hair, usually wearing a white SKIN hat. Just yell REZEN! and Ill answer:-) Im sure if I yell losifreak too many people will answer;-)

[losifreak2004]

Hahaha I'll give it a shot. This was my account name from before high school and I didn't change it; at one time, you could set your name as it appears on the BB to be different than your account name but it reverted back, and I don't feel like starting over as a 4-post newbie and not have anyone know who I am.

[T/Losi]

Hi,
I have owned a XXX-4 and a XXX-T M.F and have decided now to go nitro. Im looking at getting the XXX-NT RTR and wanting to know if anyone has had any drama's with them. How reliable is the engine? Does anyone know what heat range the recommend glow plug is for the .15mach?

Cheers

[Duffil]

I've never ran one, but I have run against them. Pretty good engine. Doesn't quite seem to have as much torque as my OS .12, though. Probably the usual MC59 or #8 plug...I can't see a need to go any hotter.

[losifreak2004]

The RTR NT's are good trucks..the Mach .15 engines run really well and I haven't heard of really any issues with either the truck or the engine.

Stay with a hotter plug (like the MC59) and you'll be fine. 20% is all you will need for the truck, no reason to run 30%.

[T/Losi]

Would 15% still be fine? I was going to run 15%, should i run 20%?

Cheers

[T/Losi]

DO you think that one-peice wheels only suit the XXX-NT? Thought i might go a bit different and go with some sort of RPM wheels.
http://www.beatyourtruck.com/rides/carsandtrucks003.jpg

Cheers

[losifreak2004]

I can't see why 15% wouldn't be ok, but there really isn't any reason to run 20% instead. What fuel brand were you planning on running?

[T/Losi]

Wasn't sure yet. Going to check what my local shop sells. Does it really matter on what brand? As long as the % is the same, it should be fine??

Cheers

[T/Losi]

Was searching around on the net and found this site - http://www.thedrake.net/
Seems pretty good, has it own forum aswell

Cheers

[T/Losi]

So what is more recommend? When R/C 411 mag did they review on it they were using 16%. What is the advantages running 20% over 15%?

Oh, and does anyone know the part number for white wheels front and rear for it?

Cheers

[losifreak2004]

You will probably have to do a little tuning if you jump back and forth from fuel to fuel...it won't necessarily hurt anything though.

You don't really need any more than 8-12% oil. Any more than that will just make the engine run hotter. 20% fuel will make more power and run cooler (when properly tuned) than 16% will. Stick with well-known fuel makers, like Trinity, Byron's, O'Donnell, Rocket Science, stuff like that, and you'll be ok.

[jmcn r]

T/LOSI:
Im looking at getting the XXX-NT RTR and wanting to know if anyone has had any drama's with them. How reliable is the engine? Does anyone know what heat range the recommend glow plug is for the .15mach?

Good choice of truck to look at :) .
i can tell that that especially if you get a newer NT II you should not really have to worry too much about any dramas with it...that is unless you decide to do some uber hardcore bashing it was designed to take. regular backyarding should only see the occasional rod/shock end replacement and the like. i have never used the Mach .15.....when i bought my XXX-NT last year second hand it came with an aftermarket engine. i just broke a friends new NTII with the M15RE and all i can say is that first impressions are terrific! i have very high expectations for that motor now. probably going to use o.s. #8s for plugs in this one, although the mc59 should be just as good.



as to a % fuel....i really don't see the point in running lower than a 20% fuel. its the modern standard, why step back in time?


for wheels...if you are not racing it the main advantage you will get from dish wheels is that they will help keep your truck cleaner. here are Losi part numbers for white dish wheels F/R:
LOSA7054
LOSA7154

hope that helps anything :)

[jmcn r]

So I finally got to take the truck with the new servo (94357) and engine (OS .12 CV-R) and hot diggitty damn. It makes my truck so much easier to control, yet extremely aggressive. The track I run at is perfect for this engine. (Revelation Raceway) Now I just gotta race it now:-)

glad your happy with your O.S rezen! theywere relying on their solid reputation of reliability for too many years...but their more recent designs have really stepped up the performance game in all areas!!

i had/have the following engine combos with my stadiums and the O.S. variants were my prefered choices for their times. these are in order of when i owned them -

RC10 GT/ O.S. .12 CV
RC10 GT/ O.S. .15 CV-X (rebuilt from a destroyed GT)
RC10 GT/Sirio .15 (upgraded from the above. way too much power!)

XXX-NT/Fantom FR .15

now....i just got done braking in my friends NTII with new Mach RE...VERY impressed there already. i also installed a .18 CV-R in another RC10 GT for somebody and promised to break it in this week! holding very high expectations for it.


---------------------------------


in a whole different department, i haven't gone through this entire thread the way i have with others before i posted (i am just being able to sit down and use a comp for something like this for the first time in months! have to move quickly) but i was wondering what everybodies shock/spring setups were like?

i ran 30 wt oil all round with, stock orange springs in front and stiffer blues in the rears on my NT and was totally pleased with it when the truck was dialed in. i used the truck for a mix of backyard bashing/racing and took it to the track once or twice while i had it in the states.

now however i want to come up with a more newbie friendly setup for my friends NTII who will mostly be backyarding it with me and a couple others. truck needs to also be able to do a little more bashing than i would do with mine (since i would pull out an MT for those). for this person i think i would stick with the 30wt front and rear...

however i am a bit torn. should i run Red springs in front and stocks in rear for a more easy to handle ride..
or should I go stock orange in front and silvers in the rear for a little boost?

if nobody has tried those i will go test them out this week and report my findings :D


thanks in advance for anyones input ;)

[Duffil]

Hmm...mine came stock with Reds. But it is first gen kit truck, maybe the newer RTRs are different. Currently running Drake threaded shock bodies/TI-shafts/30wt Losi oil, with the reds in front. I have been running reds in the rear also, but I just put pinks on and I haven't had a chance to run it yet, so we'll see how they work out.

[Got Dirt]

I'm running an OS CV .12 currently in my AD2. I'm getting about 9 1/2 minutes of run time. Which is the most fuel efficient motor in the .12 size? I would like to get more time per tank.

[Casper]

The Nova Rossi CX12R2N is the most efficient motor I have seen run. There may be others but that motor can get some serious run time.

[party_wagon]

A fully modded engine will get you the most run time. You can get around 18 minutes off a fully modded cv-r and about an extra .3-.4 hp. If you want to get even more effecient then that then go pick up a fully modded turbo engine. You could probly push 25-30 minutes run time with an eb mods o.s. tz. As far as the % of fuel you are running. Stick with 10% for a non turbo engine and stick with 20% or 25% for a turbo engine. This will give your car all the performance you need and should keep the engine easy to tune. The higher the fuel content the harder it is to tune the engine. The non turbo engines such as the cv-r aren't effecient enough to run anything over 20%.
Secondly you probly aren't a good enough driver to use anything more then about 1hp on a huge track.

[Racin Rev]

wed jim used to tell about setting the throttle servo so that it didn't quite open all the way. He claimed that it increased mileage. It was never an issue at my track so i never tried it. Maybe he can tell you if he still does it. Personally, I think that you are getting about all that you should for run time.