Team Losi XXXNT forum v9.0

[jmcn r]

A fully modded engine will get you the most run time. You can get around 18 minutes off a fully modded cv-r and about an extra .3-.4 hp. If you want to get even more effecient then that then go pick up a fully modded turbo engine. You could probly push 25-30 minutes run time with an eb mods o.s. tz. As far as the % of fuel you are running. Stick with 10% for a non turbo engine and stick with 20% or 25% for a turbo engine. This will give your car all the performance you need and should keep the engine easy to tune. The higher the fuel content the harder it is to tune the engine. The non turbo engines such as the cv-r aren't effecient enough to run anything over 20%.
Secondly you probly aren't a good enough driver to use anything more then about 1hp on a huge track.


virtually every standard modern Nitro engine is developed and designed to run specifically on 20% fuels.

just because an engine is "modded" does not mean you will see better fuel mileage. in fact most modded engines that see changes to bring up power levels will see the same or worse fuel mileage....

these factors of fuel % and mileage are more related to the persons set up with carb inserts/carb tuning/glow plug in relation to climate.

[party_wagon]

Engines machined at factories have sharp edges which will often times slow the transfer of fueld throughout the engine. If you prevent this and create a smoother flow of fuel that is more effecicient then you can tune it leaner and still keep those nice cool temperatures. Many people may tell you all the power you need is in something such as an o.s. cv-r. However something such as an o.s. tz can be setup to only be opened 3/4s the way however it can also be tuned much leaner.

[T/Losi]

Can someone tell me the difference between the XXX-NT AD2 & XXX-NT RTR2?
Is it just graphite, titanium and the quick realise rear wheels?
Are the chassis's the same?

Cheers

[T/Losi]

Also, what are the differences between the first XXX-NT and the new XXX-NT?

Cheers

[Duffil]

The AD2 chassis has little patches or depressions machined out of it to make it lighter. The fuel tank pressure tap location has been changed, the new VLA arms...I know theres more, but I can't think of what.

[Casper]

The entire rear end is different. The rear pivot has 4 deg instead of the 3 deg in the original truck. The drive shafts are new (kind of like a CVD). The rear hubs have roll center adjustment. The rear hubs are alum. The rear outside ball stud is vertical for roll center adjustments. The chassis is milled and there are fuel tubing clips to route the pressure line better. Other then that the VLA front and rear arms add additional adjustments. The rear shock tower now only has 3 holes for upper shock mounts to make the tower stronger.

[Duffil]

The rear pivot has 4 deg instead of the 3 deg in the original truck.
do you mean by toe of the tires or anti/pro squat angle?

[Casper]

I mean toe of the tires. Sorry I should have been more clear. Antisquat is 2 deg stock for both trucks and can be changed by adding washers to the front or rear of the block.

[lkisor]

Hello,

I have a couple year old xxx-nt rtr, and for the duration of having the truck the pull starter will not "grab" everytime it is pulled, it like free pulls, and 1 in every 6 or 7 pulls I will get half a stroke out of it... this makes the truck extremely hard to start. I noticed the new rtr's come with a different starting method. My question is should I fix the pull starter (and what will I need) or is it possible to put the new style starters on the old rtr's?

This is one of many problems I need to fix to get this thing going again... Thanks!

[Casper]

It is your one-way bearing that is bad. Not sure about the new starter. IF the back plate has the same bolt pattern it will work but I do not know enough about those motors to tell you for certain if it will work. Your LHS should be able to tell you. Take the motor in with you when you go.

[Racin Rev]

also could be that your one way is ok but the shaft has worn out so that the diameter is below tolerances. It doesn't take much.

[lkisor]

Ok I have also considered purchasing a new motor for it and just using that one as a secondary mainly because I have problems keeping a tune on it... its very hard to keep it running on 1 setting.. seems to lose it. So If I were to get a new motor, what can I get and will anything else need to be replaced for the new motor to be put into the chassis. Also maybe give me some tried and true motors that work?

Thanks

[E-MO]

Go with an o.s. cvr i think it is the blue head
new clutch bearings,i would not mess with a p-s anymore,get a starter box

[rezenclowd3]

The O.S. CV-R .12 or .18 both run about $100 and both are great reliable engines. If you race...get the .12 as it has very usable power, If you bash, the .18 is also great, especially for the wheelies. Don't get it with the pull start and get the rotary carb version.

[lkisor]

I mainly bash, no racing in the near future, but why would I want a engine without a pull start? I was thinking people used the pull start as back up with the starter box as the primary? Maybe i'm wrong. If I wanted to do the .18 os engine, what clutch bearings would I need? Do you buy them from losi or os? sorry I dont know whats going on hehe. And any links for the engine I would need I would appreciate!

[jmcn r]

alotof people do get the PS for that very reason lkisor, to have as a backup to their bumpstarter. as long as the flywheel touches the box you have avilable to you (if you have one) you have both options. alot of people just don't like pullstart however as its an extra factor to worry about and it has marginal effects on engine performance....


-------------
while we are talking O.S. cv's here....have any of you guys happened to find a Rotostart backplate to fit the .18? i have found backplates for all the other engines from O.S. except this one........there must be one somewhere now...

-----

last question for you guys, especially the ones with the Mach .15re from the NTII. have you ever come up on an issue where no fuel is going through the line to the carb?

just broke in a new NTII for a friend and dropped it off, he is trying to get it started now and saying no fuel is going to the carb. loosened the plug, and blocked the exhaust to prime and it helped a bit but still no luck.

any thoughts?

thanks in advance :D

[Racin Rev]

Get the bearings from your lhs, they usually keep a supply of the common ones on hand and i find that they hold up better than the losi ones they are a lot cheaper too. :) If you want to spend a lot of money you can go with the ceramec acer or boca bearings. good stuff, not cheap. From your responce i gather that you haven't used a starter box much if at all. the thing about pull starters is that they wear out regardless of whether you use them, they fail at the least convient time. they tend to be somewhat fragile, or, at least, you have to use them carefully, they provide another place for an air leak, they up the price of the motor though not as much as a starter box. If you used a starter box that was properly set up you would never go back. It is so easy though the down side is that they are expensive and are something else to lug around. At this point, however, i wouldn't even consider going back to a pull start though i might be able to be convinced to use one of those drill starters with the one way which doesn't remain on the shaft. I would also recommend the os cv or cvr, they are hard to beat for reliability and perform well.

[E-MO]

The main reason most ps are a bad idea
1. the one way bearing gets fouled with oil-or goes out completely
2. the cord breaks-unwinds
3. blisters between your fingers-sucks

[lkisor]

Where would be the best place to purchase that motor? Maybe someone can give me a direct link to a drop in and go motor? I dont want to have to modify anything for a new motor.

On another note with the current engine. I spent the whole afternoon trying to get this one to start. It starts sometimes and the dies shortly after. I cant get the thing to run and my arm hurts =/ I took the low and high speed screw back to factory and tried, leaned a little and tried, richened a little and tried, and nothing! Put a brand new glow plug in. but when I took the plug out to make sure there was not any excess fuel in the cyclinder, and the plug was wet. Did this twice and both times it was wet. You guys have any suggestions? I want a new engine, but I dont think this one is scraps yet.

[t9dragon]

You could have an air leak in the fuel line, around the carb or the back plate.

[admiral12r]

Hello,

I have a couple year old xxx-nt rtr, and for the duration of having the truck the pull starter will not "grab" everytime it is pulled, it like free pulls, and 1 in every 6 or 7 pulls I will get half a stroke out of it... this makes the truck extremely hard to start. I noticed the new rtr's come with a different starting method. My question is should I fix the pull starter (and what will I need) or is it possible to put the new style starters on the old rtr's?

This is one of many problems I need to fix to get this thing going again... Thanks!

my nt is a couple years old to and i had the same prob with the pull starter. i ran right out and bought a starter box; which is nice, and i use, but has some bad points to it. first off mine can run off of two battery pack, but two full charged packs wont turn my engine over. so i use a car. second is that you have to walk out get your truck and carry it back to the starter.
in the long run i just replaced the ps with a new one and it works just fine. my one way bearing did not go out. so i start my truck off the box, (when i can) put the glow lighter in my pocket, and if the truck dies i just walk out to it and pull start it; which takes one pull when the engine is warmed up.

[lkisor]

Well quick update here. Went to my LHS and after a short duration they figured out the problem.. the engine rings are shot, it was pushing a ton of raw fuel out the exhaust and if you took the glow plug out and looked in the cylinder the gas would fill up the cylinder completely after about 30 minutes of sitting still. So I ordered a OS .12 cvrx for it. Hope I have better luck with this one.

[t9dragon]

Well quick update here. Went to my LHS and after a short duration they figured out the problem.. the engine rings are shot, it was pushing a ton of raw fuel out the exhaust and if you took the glow plug out and looked in the cylinder the gas would fill up the cylinder completely after about 30 minutes of sitting still. So I ordered a OS .12 cvrx for it. Hope I have better luck with this one.

hey are you log in to yahoo im?

[jmcn r]

grrrr...guys, have any of you tested the compression of the Mach 15re? i m testing my friends own out that wasn't starting and using the Hobbico gauge it is only reading about 10, maybe a shade lower. that seems very low to me and feels low to the hand.... thats not pretty..the engine was just running perfect, its only just been broken in.

in the process of pulling it down now, everything seems fine except the crank is a darker shade...not sure if its supposed to be in the m15. just need to figure out how to get this damn losi flywheel off to see more of the internals!

need help!

[lkisor]

I just pulled my engine apart yesterday, Spent most of the day trying to figure out the flywheel. And then I held the crank still and took some rubber plyers and there is a rod that is threaded onto the crank shaft on the tip of it, threads off then the rest of it comes apart. I would have never known how to do it, except when you look at the parts explosion of the engine, I noticed threads on the end of the crankshaft.... but yet it doesnt show what threads off of it. Hope this helps!

EDIT : This is for the regular mach .15, not the RE but they should be the same?

[losifreak2004]

I haven't looked at the RTR very closely, but there should be a "hole" on the end of the clutch nut (what you twisted off with the pliers) to allow you to use an allen wrench?

Don't rely on compression gauges or what anyone tells you about how the engine should feel when you turn the flywheel...just because the motor doesn't "feel" tight, doesn't mean it won't seal well when it's hot.

[jmcn r]

thanks guys, that was right on! much appreciated. my friend didnt leave the manual with me but when i DL'ed it from losi i realised what i had been missing all along. the crank has another shaft threaded to it so i just put my allen key in there with a flywheel tool and got it off in the first cranks :). i must say though the motorcycle style losi "basket" flywheel made it more tedious than it needed to be.
thanks :)



compression definatly is off, it got weaker and weaker.....i agree on not relying on the gauge especially till you bring the temps up...but i never got to do this!!

quite angry at this now....
long story short, the engine wasn't hinting at starting, compression felt let it kept falling while trying. i noticed excessive amounts of fuel seaping from somewhere in the front of the engine.

basically i look into the engine now geussing its the front bearing, seems that way...but there also seems to be minor scrapes right on the lip where the crank passes through crankcase and front bearing. ..... thats no good and clearly whats causing the leak.

geuss its a manufacturing flaw? the problem is that i am out of the country, to try and get a warranty repair now would cost alot to ship it back to the states and wait on it even if Losi did the "proper" thing. i am also angry since i know my friend used old fuel no matter how many times i told him. as in fuel thats several years old.....
it served him right....that couldnt have helped the situation and probably caused detonation.







my big question now:
does anybody have the size of the front and rear bearings of the M15RE??? i can't find specs for them anywhere and everywhere seems to have the replacements out of stock!! i wonder if its a safe bet that these are the same bearings in the original Mach 15?

hmmmm....would love to get them replaced ASAP!

thanks in advance

[losifreak2004]

I THINK the bearings are the same...but don't quote me on that.

[jmcn r]

thanks for the thought LF, i would imagine they should be the same since the engine itself is an evolution over the original...so why not?

[EvaderBX]

Originally Posted by lkisor
Hello,

I have a couple year old xxx-nt rtr, and for the duration of having the truck the pull starter will not "grab" everytime it is pulled, it like free pulls, and 1 in every 6 or 7 pulls I will get half a stroke out of it... this makes the truck extremely hard to start. I noticed the new rtr's come with a different starting method. My question is should I fix the pull starter (and what will I need) or is it possible to put the new style starters on the old rtr's?

This is one of many problems I need to fix to get this thing going again... Thanks!


Hey man its your one way bearing. Fuel and other lubricants get on the one way after a while of use and start to slip. Buy a new one for about 15-20 bux or take it out and blow it off with a compressor REALLY REALLY well.
Doug

[losifreak2004]

Might want to clean it off with some brake cleaner (or something that won't leave a residue like WD-40 will) too. That should stop it from slipping.

jmncr - I don't think the crank changed from engine to the other..so I think they're the same. But like I said...don't quote me on that!

[YZ167]

Hey guys, I was wondering what engine I should get for my AD1. It will be 70% bash and 30% track. I was considering a peak diablo .15, fantom .15, os .12 cvr, or an os. 18. I have a GT in the past with an os .12 and an os. 15. I am looking mostly for an engine with reliability, easy to start and that will go through the most gallons. Obviously I want one that the AD1's tanny will be able to handle.

Thanks

[Casper]

I would stick with the OS then. The diablo's have been good engines but the one I have has been really peaky with power and is also a super gas hog.

[YZ167]

The only reason I ask is because the peak diablo .15 is 60 bucks brand new, the fantom is 99 dollars, the os .18 is 89, and finally the .12cvr is 110 dollars. All the prices seem vary resonable, I was thinking maybe about those 05 fantoms, people have been saying a lot of good things about em, also I belive the peak diablo is an 03 fantom, but dont quote me on that, lol. Looking forward to getting an engine and trying out the ad1.

[E-MO]

i had really good luck running a dynamite .12 spd
got 4+ gallons and made managable horsepower

[YZ167]

4 gallons, that is awsome Emo ! I would be happy to get 4 gallons throught whatever I get. How is the NT running this days?

[xjcurtis]

little help guys. i need to know if it is worth it to replace the yoke one a AD1 i busted it landed to hard on the left rear gas on and busted it into 3 pieces, but is it worth it to replace it for the 3.50 or whatever it is or go out and get some CVD's since i want to start racing instead of just bashing. thanks

[Casper]

Get a set of the white yokes. I think the losi universals handle better then CVD's. Unless you are set on a CVD's (which no one runs on the gas truck) I would rather spend 3.50 on new yokes then $30+ on CVD's which require maintance.

[xjcurtis]

thats true thanks, i was just curious to what other people thought.

[losifreak2004]

Casper's on the money. Dogbones will have more side-bite and go through bumps a lot better than CVD's will.

[jerryf402]

i'm just getting back into rc. i just ordered a xxxnt it's been adout 2 years and i not sure what engine to get. my buddy and his son has gt's. one has a wasp not sure about the other.what i want is something that makes lots of power.what are the top engines now?

[xjcurtis]

i have a os .12cvr just as fast as most 15s when tuned right, and its price ad i think 115 so a decent price for a pretty fast engine. I also have a rb .12 wich blows the . 12 away.

[losifreak2004]

jerryf - Power is nothing if you can't translate it into forward motion.

Anything Novarossi based will be good..RB, TOP, Rex, etc. I think the best Novarossi engine for gas truck is the CX12R2N but I don't know if you can still find those. The Orion engines are good as well, and the O.S. engines will always be some of the best in terms of easy tunability and reliability; the .12 TZ and CV-R are both good motors.

Trinity's Adam Drake Signature Series engines run awesome, make great power, and are super easy to tune...more power than the O.S. for roughly the same price range. The new Platinum Edition engines will be screamers!

[Saboteur]

Hey who was it that had the RB X12 motor in their NT? I bought one today, but it's rotary carb std shaft :mad: . I really like SG slide carb in my truck. They are making the track smaller so I said this will do fine. Also, the .12tZ would be overkill anyway. The RB seems to have a composite carb or it may just be black coated. Either way I hope it fights vapor lock :).

[xjcurtis]

i have an RB the carb is just black coated it feels to heavy to be plastic, the rotary should be better its better for low end torque in stead of high end flow.

[losifreak2004]

Rotary vs. slide is a moot point. Rotary carburetors are more lenient in terms of linkage and radio settings, while slide carbs require your linkage and radio adjustments to be dead on in order to work correctly.

[xjcurtis]

i have run both and prefer the rotary in my off road and slide on my on road due to the fact that my os seems to hit harder once its gained alittle speed and it looses traction and with the rotary it seems to be a bit smoother

[Saboteur]

I've run the slide carb MT12 in the GT before and I didn't have to use much of a smoother trigger finger technique around the dirt...then again the 4 shoe clutch did suck pretty badly lol. Welp I'm gonna go run the RB sometime before the rain and give it a whirl.

[losifreak2004]

Trust me..it is NOT the carburetor that makes the powerband of the engine "smooth" or not. I have run engines with a slide carburetor that are smooth as butter, and Adam will tell you that the best carb he has run on a .12 was a Novarossi slide. It is all in the linkage and your radio adjustments. You can make a rotary carb feel terrible and a slide feel great. A slide carb is more picky when you set everything up, and that is where most people run into problems. It's hard to get a servo that turns in a circle to pull a linear slide consistently.

[Saboteur]

Not smooth, but I just feel the bottom end is a bit more responsive on a slide. I never had problem with either really, but thats what I'm acustom to using. NO tuning issues or linkage issues. :)

[losifreak2004]

I've run engines back to back with both a rotary and a slide carb and not been able to tell which is which...I've run the same engine back to back with each kind of carb and not known which is which, haha.

[Saboteur]

Was it you though who ran the NT with the X12 like years ago when I had my Sport Nt? Kinda hard to remember. If you are running 30% what plug did you use?

[losifreak2004]

Noooo I've never run RB stuff. I only run 20% in my gas truck engines.

[Saboteur]

Dam...who was it? Arg. So you don't run 30% at all? Where do you race at?

[xjcurtis]

if your running 30% you want to run a colder plug than what you have now at least one step

[Saboteur]

I forgot what plug the RB came with since I've been using mostly Novarossi plugs. Rody recommends the #7.

[losifreak2004]

Saboteur - I use 30% in my 1/8th scale engines, but that's it.

[Saboteur]

I've been racing/running with 30% for some time now, but not sure just how much smaller they'd make the track so if the added 30% will be necessary. It adds power, but doesn't increase wear as many people think. Only if you run the engine too lean will lots of wear n tear occur.

[losifreak2004]

Bingo!

I can't see ever needing to use 30% in a gas truck engine...my trucks will already wheelie over backwards and clear any jump I through at them, I couldn't use any more power!

[Saboteur]

Still though, it's pretty easy to control anyway. I'll stay with the 30%. ;)

[losifreak2004]

Haha, then you must have an lighter trigger finger than I do. I tend to be pretty punched sometimes.

[xjcurtis]

i know how that is HAMMER DOWN lol

[losifreak2004]

Adam and I always have contests to see who comes off the track with more fuel in their tank after a qualifier...I don't win very often, LOL.

[xjcurtis]

im like that to but i also do it with my jeep and my friends suppercharged tacoma i still loose, n my jeep is n/a not charged lol

[Davesboat007]

Hello Everyone. This is my first post. I hope someone can help me ID this truck I have just recieved from eBay. I was told it is a XXXNT but I have 3 others and this one is somewhat different. The chassis looks more like a rc10gt than a NT. I has the NT type upper chassis but the front end doesn't have the NT style pivot block and the steering bellcranks are 90 degrees to the chassis, not slanted like a NT. The Diff case, which is bad and needs replacing, has a drum brake behind the spur and not a disc on the other side. I'm not sure if this is an older model or custom built.
SuperDave

[tkcustoms]

Sounds like you have an original NXT, Losi's first gas truck.

Does it look like this?
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2675&stc=1

[Davesboat007]

Bingo, That's her. I really like the looks of this truck even though I haven't ran it yet. Need to get a few parts first. I'll check eBay and Tower. We have a short track with plenty of turns and I think with it's huge spur gear bottom end should be no problem. Any idea how old this truck may be? It's in good shape and looks to be lighter in weight than a XXXNT. No slots in the chassis for engine adjustment though but I'll come up with something. Thanks a bunch for the ID help.

[Tig]

I love my NT, it takes a licken and keeps on ticken. I was out bashing yesterday Very well made truck :). Just thought I would drop in and give some props.

Later

[Tig]

Does anyone now what the stock needle settings are. I would appreciate it.
Also is there a 2 spd available for these guys?

Thanks

[Davesboat007]

Does anyone know where to get parts for a NXT? I've checked Tower and eBay. The bearing housing in my diff casing is busted so I need a new diff casing. My lhs has never seen a NXT. :(

[purplerides]

Davesboat - They haven't made that for 6 or 7 years. I gave most of my stuff away to a newbie at the track about 6 months after the XXXNT came out. I threw more stuff out when I moved a couple years back. I do have some A-arms that snuck into the new house. I'll check around when I get a chance for a any other parts but I doubt it. The NXT/GTX broke fairly easy the A-arms broke easy. They handle ok not as good as the XXXNT. The gears where change out as a set you change the pinion and the spur as a set to change the ratio. Parts will be hard to find. You can have whatever I find , but I think other then several sets of arms (some new , some used but pin area sloppy) I gave away or threw the rest out.

[Davesboat007]

Thanks Purplerides, Parts are tough to find. I'll keep looking for a diff casing. I do see spur gears on ebay and will get a few. When you have time to get together what you dont mind parting with please e-mail me at Davesboat29483@aol.com. Please let me know how much you'd like and if you accept Paypal or would like a money order. I've placed an ad in the wanted section here but haven't had any replies.

[a-useless-name]

HEy, does anyone know if it is possible to put a slide carb engine on the XXXN-T instead of a rotary carb. Thanks

[rezenclowd3]

Yes you can use a slide carb. The linkage setup should be in the kit manual.

[a-useless-name]

do you know what page

[rezenclowd3]

The linkages were shown in the AD2 kit manual I know, as thats what I have. As to what page. I dunno. Sorry.

[Casper]

You will need to get another throttle servo horn. The rotary horn is an "L" and the slide horn is straight. When you build the kit you need to cut one of the arms off the supplied horn. I do not think it is possible to run a slide carb wtih the "L" horn used for the rotary setup.

[a-useless-name]

yea but i have the RTR XXXN-T so i think i'm gonna need to go to the hobby

[Casper]

Look at page 53 of the AD2 manual link below on how to setup for a slide carb.

It looks like you will need LOSA9410 and LOSA9415 parts bags to convert to a slide carb but it can be done with off the shelf parts.

http://www.teamlosi.com/ProdInfo/Files/XXX-NT_AD2_Pricelist.pdf

http://www.teamlosi.com/ProdInfo/Files/XXX-NT_AD2_Manual.pdf

[4x4_Racer]

Hey guys,

I just picked up a XXX-NT sport! I am use to 2wd nitro's, and let me tell you. The difference between my nitro rustler and this, is like night and day. Its totally understandable why people say, XXX-NT when you mention you're looking at a rustler.

Anyways, I have been having one helk of a time tuning this Mach .15. For some reason, the engine seems to want to run rich in order to run period. Then after about 3 laps (getting the engine warm) it will die off. Fires right back up, but it will do the same thing over and over. Put a new plug in, carb is opening all the way, fuel is flowing fine. My question is, what is a good range to run this engine? Temp wise? 2nd. Where is the general placement of the LSN and the HSN on the Mach .15?


My next question, How do you go about adjusting this brake? I don't want to adjust the trim on the throttle servo, because the carb is opening and closing perfectly. But I don't seem to have enough brake when I need it. With this composite brake type of deal, is it ok to loosen and tighten that to apply more tention to the brake disk?

[Error404]

4x4..

You can adjust the brake with the radio that came with the RTRII.. Or, you can adjust it with the spring on the piece connecting it to the brake pad, move it back.

[rcaboveall]

Whats the biggest wheel/tire combo that you've put on without having to modify anything? I'm looking for a good bashing wheel/tire combo. Right now I'm running Dirt Hawg IIs on the original wheels but was wondering if I could go bigger.

[t9dragon]

If anyone is interested! I have for sale a NIP Hardcore Racing titanium chassis for the XXX-NT. They list for $115.00 on Hardcore, I will sell it for $60.00 shipped in the lower 48. I sold my XXX-NT a couple of months ago, so I no longer need the chassis.

[purplerides]

4x4racer- to adjust the brake. First adjust the collar in front of the brake arm with radio on in neutral. Adjust it forward little at a time and check the the drag braking. I don't run drag brake so i adust mine until it just starts to give me drag brake then move collar back a little until there is none. Then move the back collar up to tighten on the spring more. If your front collar isn't up far enough then you spend most of your servo travel getting intial braking. Thats' why you have to adjust it to get it close to intial braking.

[need a fix]

I got a XXXNT, well lets put it this way, I bought a matt fransis elec. just so I could run something.I broke the XXX in the way I was suppose to and it was cool, real cool.I ran half a gallon of nitro through it and had a lot of fun, my friends couldnt believe it.But then I started having trouble starting it,and then keepin it runnin was the problem.I just want it back, I miss that thing!!I was thinkin about converting it to an elec. start.That would save my arm.Is that possible? PLEASE someone HELP!!!

[Casper]

You can get a starter box for it. That would be easier then trying to find an EZ start sytem for your engine.

Odds are your tune is just off. As the weather changes you may need to readjust your carb settings to compensate for colder or warmer weather.

Your glow plug could have gone bad as well.

[need a fix]

thanks Casper. Bout how much,and do u guys use starter boxs?what about the pull string,Is it still there when you use a starter box.lets talk about those carb settings. . . . . . . . . .and a whole lot more .But when I get this thing running agin im gonna b SOOOOO happy!!! I do appreciate all yur advice and help.

[Casper]

I use a starter box. The good thing is it makes the car easier to start. The bad news is it is one more thing to carry around. Losi makes a pretty inexpensive starter box just of the NT. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA99060

I would suggest getting the gel cell for it. They last longer and provide more power IMO.

Tuning is a feel, sight, and sound thing. If you do not have a temp gun you can get a cheap one that helps as a guide but most tuners will tell you to tune by sight, sound and feel and not by temps. The temp gun will help tell you if you are way off or can be used as a gauge to help you fingure out what might be wrong.

[need a fix]

Thankx Casper, ill check it out.Hopefully ill get er runnin agin, man ill b sooo happy.Ill let u know what happns.For now, im off to horizon hobby. P.S you know anybody lookn 4 a matt fransis elec.?its fast and RTR. Im hopen it goes on the buy sell trade forum . see ya .

[rcaboveall]

The pins in the MIP CVDs keep falling out while driving my XXX-NT. I have the nut tightened as much as I can, but the pin still finds a way to work its way loose. Have any of you had this problem. Is there a fix you can recommend to me?

[rezenclowd3]

Loctite them and/ or grind a very small flat spot on the pin for the grub screw to grab on to. I dont know if others have had problems, but generally MIP stuff is great.

[Casper]

Spray off the set screw with motor spray before you thread lock it. You can also get a piece of shink tube to put over the pin holes. Someone (I think racers edge) used to make a CVD "boot" that helped keep the pin in if the set screw backed off. Blue thread lok should do the trick though.

[E-MO]

These two videos should help you get a good tune out of your eng
remember to tune for performance... let us know if these help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSmMzpZM_As



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJFsJAxNoRg

[need a fix]

Im sure those videos will help, but the thing is ,...NOW I DONT GET SOUND FROM MY COMPUTER!!!!!!!!!!! :mad: :confused: Let me try to fix this crap then ill listen to the video then ill try to fix my losi. If one more thing gets in my way of fixn this thing you guys are gonna see the XXXNT and this comp on ebay.Thanks for the videos man,theyll probably B A big help.Youll here from me soon.

[rcaboveall]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUM93&P=M

I'm looking for a good basher tire for my XXX-NT that will perform great on dirt, grass, and asphalt. Any opinions? Right now I'm running Dirt Hawg IIs but do not get very good traction on dirt & grass.

[Casper]

Nothing is going to excell on all three. A good dirt and grass tire will wear out fast on the street. Something that will last decent on the street will uaully not work well in the dirt. The tires you are running are about the best of all worlds tire you can find.

[rcaboveall]

Nothing is going to excell on all three. A good dirt and grass tire will wear out fast on the street. Something that will last decent on the street will uaully not work well in the dirt. The tires you are running are about the best of all worlds tire you can find.

Yeah but don't you think these tires would work better in the grass and dirt? They are bigger, and the tread design seems like it would get more grip.

[Casper]

They should work well in the grass but on dirt the lugs are too big. A pin type tire will work better in the dirt.

[rcaboveall]

Loctite them and/ or grind a very small flat spot on the pin for the grub screw to grab on to. I dont know if others have had problems, but generally MIP stuff is great.

Yeah over the weekend I used locktite and some heat shrink tubing to cover the CVD. <-- This method works great. Thanks for your help.

[TEAM 42O RACIN]

(A9310) Been having problems priming motor at certain times. Had to do a little work on the chassis so i took off tank and checked fuel-filter and fuel lines along with tank by the underwater test to find leaks. Everything was good except i couldnt blow through the fuel cell. :mad: I noticed at bottom of tank where the fuel outlet nipples is there is somewhat a molded screen inside made from what i could till of many peices of wire. I couldnt get air through it either way or directions so im assuming its clogged. Ive had 6 gallons of fuel 20% Nitro w/ 14-18% oil content. So my 1st question is
"Is it common for them to clog up with that much fuel run through them?"
"And whats with the square plastic piece that is screwed inside to the bottom of the fuel cell?" is for slush control? **THXS 4 REPLIES** :D

[Casper]

You should not need a fuel filter as there is a stone in the tank. 6 gallons is a lot of fuel. If you do run a filter I would replace it by then. Try spraying out the screen with motor spray. That might unclog it. The plastic piece is to make the tank legal size. If you are not racing where they control the fuel tank size then go ahead and remove it for long runs between fill ups.

[E-MO]

I run a filter on the pressure line and in between the line going to the carb
lots O crap goes into fuel tank from pressure line
A little redundant i know but you never can be too safe

[TEAM 42O RACIN]

You say stone,which may be in there, but it looks like screens and wire to me but I'm looking through plastic also. I'll try some motor oil cleaner and spray in there to see if it will break up. I run a fuel filter with screen between fuel cell outlet and the carb. inlet like your supposed to. It has been clean about every time i do maintenance on it. So thank you guys for you replies! :driving:

[TEAM 42O RACIN]

XXX-NT front steering component have an adjustment nut #A1610. This sits on top of the left steering arm known as the servo saver arm and post. Default setting for it is tighten to close and back-off 2 times counter-clock wise for a start setting. Now does this adjustment tighten suspension, makes it more free, for more or less over and under-steer?? thxs*** NT-Sport**

[E-MO]

After a year off of racing i dusted of my "junk" it came back to me quickly
i was having a terrible time pushing going into the corners a buddy at the track(sponsored driver) told me to tighten down the sx saver nut[which was loose ]
cranked it down snug...what a difference point & shoot steering

Went on to win the sportsman A main
It will take any slop out of your steering

[rezenclowd3]

For loose tracks it helps to loosen the servo saver, and for high traction tracks, it helps to tighten it down as a general rule, but also depending on the quality of servo you are running.

[revodude14]

Even though nobody has posted her in awhile I'll try my luck. Ive been driving my xxx-nt rtr and I havent in awhile, but theres is a problem where the engine just revs and it barely goes, but it will still hit like 30mph if givin enough time. Ive tried everything and came to the conclusion that the flywheel is not staying on the crankshaft properly so that it still goes but it slips out of control. Is there a broken part like the cone spacer or do i need to just put locktite on it? this is getting annoying to disassemble the truck to tighten the flywheel. any help is appreciated

[rezenclowd3]

Loktite the flywheel nut, and wrench it down REAL hard.

[Casper]

You have to use thread lok on the clutch nut. Spray off the crank and spray out the clutch nut to get any dirt and oils off the threads and then using some lock tite screw the clutch nut on as tight as you can. Hold the fly wheel with a pair of channel locks or a clutch tool and get that thing on tight. This is one of the most important things to do when assemblying the clutch.

[revodude14]

yep, that was the problem. thanks for the help

[Locus]

Hello everyone......it's been a long time since posting. Got married, sold a house and bought a new one the last couple of years. I'm in the process of unpacking my XXX-NT RTR. I'll post back once I get everything out and ready to run.

Are people still running these?

Todd

[Casper]

There is a second generation now with the AD2 but the NT is still a great truck. They have just tweaked some parts.

[Locus]

Thanks Casper.....I'll read that thread and ask questions there since it is the latest/greatest.

Todd

[Locus]

Anyone have the part listings of the Trinity Losi XXX-NT? I can not find any information when looking around. Thanks in advance!

Todd

[disslusive]

[url]http://www.teamlosi.com

Try that out. Lots of info there not sure about the trinity though.

[Locus]

[url]http://www.teamlosi.com

Try that out. Lots of info there not sure about the trinity though.

Thanks Disslusive, but looking specifically for the Trinity parts. I have the rear pivot block and rear wheel hubs. Looking for other parts to upgrade that Trinity offers for the XXX-NT.

Todd

[Locus]

Thanks Disslusive, but looking specifically for the Trinity parts. I have the rear pivot block and rear wheel hubs. Looking for other parts to upgrade that Trinity offers for the XXX-NT.

Todd

Anyone? I also remember Dynamite making some aluminum parts for the XXX-NT but do not find them on their website.

Todd

[disslusive]

Not sure if this helps more, I have ordered some things through here.

http://www.losipartshouse.com

Just a shot, there are links for Trinity and Dynamite parts on the left side.

- Todd (my name too)

[Locus]

Not sure if this helps more, I have ordered some things through here.

http://www.losipartshouse.com

Just a shot, there are links for Trinity and Dynamite parts on the left side.

- Todd (my name too)

Thanks Todd! Yeah, looked over there just now and the Trinity rear hubs are there but got those already. Looks as if I'm going to have to get the aluminum front hubs, knuckles off ebay.

Thanks, Todd

[gatordentist]

ok guys so here is my dilemna. i always raced electric all my life and thought i should step up the game to nitro. so i bought this truck from a stranger for a really good deal. compression seems good and fired right up.
now my question is about reaching top speed, the only time this car reaches full speed is once i warm it up to about 190 degrees. is this normal? is there issues with clutch. i am new to all this nitro stuff i know this may sound stupid but it probably takes me a half tank of 20%. how do you guys warm the car up before putting on track?

next question is the differential/gear box. if i hold the slipper spur gear and spin one of the rear tires, both spin simultaneously in the same direction and it sounds pretty gritty when spinning? is this normal or is the differential having issues? the guy before me had the slipper tightened all the way and actually melted the cover at base of spring to backing plate so i had to loosen the slipper a couple turns out. please help guys, thanks

[AreCee]

The wheels should turn opposite when you hold the spur gear.

Perhaps now is a good time for you to become intimate with the diff and rebuild it.

[gatordentist]

rebuild as in take apart and rebuild with all new diff parts? or clean, relube and rebuild?

[AreCee]

Yes. Replace any worn out parts.

[Casper]

Check that the clutch bearings are smooth. The gas truck does sound a little loud when you spin the wheels. Most of it is pretty normal. If the slipper was locked on the truck then the diff is shot. It is really important to set the diff and slipper right on the gas truck or you will go through diffs pretty quick.

[gatordentist]

thanks guys, will be taking it apart today. what do you guys use to clean bearings?

[AreCee]

New bearings. Just replace them.

[gatordentist]

how do you know when the clutch needs to be replaced? what are the warning signs? thanks guys

[Casper]

I spray them out with motor spray. With clutch bearings though REPLACE THEM!

checkout avidrc.com for a great place to get super cheap bearings!

[Casper]

I would check the clutch bearings about every 5-6 runs. If the engine will not idle a lot of the time it will be clutch bearings. The clutch bell should spin free with the engine off. If the clutch bell does not spin free you need new bearings. These are critcal to having the engine perform well and unfortunatley they do not last very long. Depeding on the racing conditions they may only last 10-15 runs. They can last longer then this but they can also go out sooner then this.

[Racin Rev]

All of a sudden this forum just went away. I missed it so here it is. I eagerly antisipate being able to race again, but for now I sit on the sidelines. Is it really true that this class has died?

[Racin Rev]

come on you guys we have to keep this thread going surely someone still races these. Heck i have two of them and like them a lot more than buggies.

[silentsnow31802]

Ive been looking for tire options and cant find anyone with much of an opinion. i would like to get tires from towerhobbies.com but I dont know what will fit my stock rims. I know its a 2.2 size tire but are there any other dimensions I should look for?

[silentsnow31802]

I have decided on the Red X-2000 Tires. I wanted pink but I cant find them in stock anywhere. Hope they work well for pavment, grass, and dirt. Hope they dont wear fast either....

[mikev]

what would be a good motor upgrade from the mach .15

[silentsnow31802]

I have a Picco .15 XP in mine and it hauls! I have to run the throttle restricted to about 50% to prevent wheelspin and wheelies. If you can find one of those get it. I dont know the price of them these days and I think theyre hard to find though.

[Racin Rev]

Has anyone ever used the RPM damper (shock) kits that turn the dampers into two stage units? How well do they work?

[sniperironman]

hey guys quick questions just got a semi used xxxnt rtr for 60 from a co- worker the truck is a great condition. the guy really new nothing of the rc car or inustry he says he got it as a gift and could never get it started after a friend of his broke it in and all... well he has no time to play or tinker with it sense he doesnt know much anwways...ive been in the hobby couple years and know some what of nitro cars and trucks. ok bottom point should i "break in " the truck again sense it was out of tune when got it i mean i did get it started that was it didnt drive just let it idle for little and if so does anyone know how maney turns i should place the high speed an low speed needle back to as if i just bought it ? thanks!!

[Racin Rev]

what kind of engine?

[sniperironman]

sorry for late reply its a Mach .15 stock

[Casper]

You only need to "Break in" an engine once. Now you just need to get a good tune on the engine and go have some fun.

I would look at www.teamlosi.com at the RTR manual. It may have stock needle settings for that engine

update: looked it up for you:

TUNING THE ENGINE should be done following the manufactures instructions. If you do not have instructions, start by closing both the
high speed and low speed (idle) needle valves by turning them clockwise until you feel increased resistance – do not over tighten them.
Typically, the high speed needle will need to be adjusted 2 - 3 full turns open, and the low speed needle about 2 full turns open.
By turning the needle valve clockwise, the fuel mixture will become leaner – meaning that the engine will draw less fuel. When the needle
valve is turned counter-clockwise, the fuel mixture becomes richer- meaning that the engine will draw more fuel. The high speed needle affects
the fuel mixture at full throttle while the low sped needle only affects the fuel mixture at idle and the low end of the throttle band.

[sniperironman]

thanks casper i didnt even look at the book lol!

[mikemaxx14]

hey guys whats the exact engine shaft for the xxx nt ..ps..im ganna get an os 18 cvr with pull start so a link would be awsome!

[Casper]

You need a threaded or std shaft motor.

DO NOT BUY A SG shaft motor!!!!!!!

[RespirologyRC]

what are you guys recommend for a flywheel and clutch bell on a regular shaft engine? I bought a .12 Jammin engine and found that i can't use the flyweel that came with my xxx-nt.

[RespirologyRC]

SG shaft engine---sorry forgot to mention

[Racin Rev]

see Casper's post above. I would suggest that if the engine is still new to see if you can trade it in on a std shaft.

[RespirologyRC]

LMAO i didn't even see that post above mine. I now feel like a tard; having been in the hobby for so long.

[RespirologyRC]

will Jato 3.3 rims fit on the xxx-nt?

[RespirologyRC]

Anyone try using a AE GT2 clutch in their xxx-nt?