Team Losi XXXNT forum v9.0

[ross]

Thanks Got Speed, but after reading what you and other people, I dont think I would get anything from it plus it would not be has smooth has the stock clutch.

[Got Speed]

ross- Yeah, it isn't nearly as smooth. It hits harder and dosn't seem to slip so much as the stock clutch.

[Damifudo]

What is the best ball cup arrangement to use to keep them from poping off. Seems like if you land a bit other than flat my ball cups pop right off. Is there a better ball cup arrangement other than stock? Please help I am tired of loosing just cause the cups came off the balls. I rather brake something but have it happen less. Thanks for any input.

[ross]

I run the standard Losi ball cups all round except for the inner rear where I use Traxxas Captured Joints. This configuration works well, and Ive only ever had a front one pop when someone cut me up in front down the straight, which panicked me because I was 2nd in the B with a chance of getting bumped up into the A. Luckily I had a good pitman who popped it back on for me and I still finished second (phew!)
You could try that, and then if your still popping ball joints then replace them with the Traxxas Captured ones, but its best to try and use as little of them has possible has they put stress on other parts such has wishbones.

Also, get into the habit of replacing ball joints once they have popped off several times has they get considerably weaker. Happy Racing.

[Shady]

pretty much what ross said of the cups, if you pop one off in a race just pop it on and after the race replace it, if it pops off once it'll be easier for it to come off again

[losiguy1090]

if u get captured ones, get dubros. theyre awesome. ive tried ae traxxas and dubro and i liek dubro best.

[Got Speed]

Like everyone else said if you replace them often enough they won't pop off easily. Recently I've been breaking ball studs in the front end(thankfully during practice). I'm thinking about getting the Ofna captured ends used for the steering linkage on their 1/8 buggys. They are almost the same length as the stock ball cups but they are thicker and captured. I think I might try some since a screw will be a lot harder to break than the ball studs. As far as stress goes on the other parts I don't really care because a broken ball stud puts you out of the race as much as anything else. Even though it may cost more or be harder to replace it will strengthen the weakest area. JMO

[cabbynate]

You may want to try Nelson ends. They are the same as Rocket City ends. #RCL57. The #RCL57-10 would give you what you need and you would get 5 pairs. The RCL57 comes with hard wear we don't need but it is just 1 pair.
http://www.nelsonhobby.com/rcl.html

[losiguy1090]

also, when ball cups start wearing out, you can squeeze em with plyers to tighten em up.

[dkj-M3]

I've tried them all & the traxxas cap-ends seem to be the best, but you need to replace them after a while because they will wear & cause slop.

[Casper]

I have had really good luck with the RTR ball cups with superduty tie rods for the RTR. This has been a bullet proof combo for me.

[losifreak2004]

Casper - The shock bodies are .9, but the shock shafts are 1.0

I won't put captured ends on my truck..I'd rather let a cup pop off, and pop it back on, then break an arm or hub. I use Losi's yellow ballcups (although the blue ones are the strongest) and Losi's Ti ballstuds everywhere. Captured ends get sloppy, but don't get replaced as often as they should, either.

If a cup pops off once, replace it. If that particular location pops off two or three times, replace the stud itself (dirt can get inside the cup and wear the ball down).

[dkj-M3]

I've tried them all & the traxxas cap-ends seem to be the best, but you need to replace them after a while because they will wear & cause slop.

I only use these on the inside for the rear shock tower. I had problems with cups popping off all the time whether new or not. This solved the problem, I have been racing with them for 2 years & have never broken anything because of the cap-ends.

[offroadcrazy01]

casper are you running Jimmy's last race of his series,I raced at hotrod's last night it's a real fast pace track it was a lot of fun.The table top jump is sweet can get a lot of air off of it,good luck if you are also are you going to racing the shotout

[losiguy1090]

anyone got updated pics of their nt's? im gonna have some in a couple days after i get my pics developed.

[Casper]

I would really like to make both of them but I am not sure if I will be able to make either race right now since I may be out of the country on buisness around that time. If I am in the country I will be there though!

[MBX4RR]

anyone got updated pics of their nt's? im gonna have some in a couple days after i get my pics developed.

Here is a pic of mine> http://www.msnusers.com/gascars/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=24
& not to get off topic but check out my XBOX that I customized> http://www.msnusers.com/gascars/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=27 I dremeled out the fines on the sides and painted it red and metallic green :)

[losiguy1090]

lol pretty sweet xbox. sweet cars too.

[rhcsavage21]

ok its official i am geting a fantom fr12 rear exaust. and the fantom .12 works dual chamber pipe next thursday. but i have 1 quation what header should i use???

[cave]

Got Speed are ya racing @ SRS this Saturday?
10 minute main at SRS. Not a big deal to those that race 15 / 20 minute mains normally. SRS is more catered to electric. This is history.

cave

[dkj-M3]

drake rear exh header

[losiguy1090]

good luck, ur gonna like that engine. i used to run the side exhaust and it was so easy to tune, reliable and pretty fast. espeically for wut u pay.

[Got Speed]

Sorry double post.

[Got Speed]

rcsavage21- I also say go with the Drake rear exhaust header. It has a tight enough bend to fit under the body fine and is also hard anodized like the rest of the Drake stuff.

cave- I really wish I could but I will be in Florida. Hopefully there will be enough of a turn out that he will do it again in a couple weeks.

[Shady]

mugen header, the best IMO

[losiguy1090]

got my new pics, only gonna post one in here tho.

[Battle Max]

does anyone know if i took the tuned pipe off the drake edition and put it on my truck with the header pipe that came with the rtr truck will i see any gains or will i be waisting my money?

[ross]

Yea you should notice an increase in your low end power band, so your truck will be snappier out of the corners and more responsive. Dont worry about using it with your RTR manifold, has far as I know its no different to the Drake one except that the RTR is designed to be used with pullstart engines.

[losiguy1090]

i know the drake one is chamfered, not sure on the rtr one tho. pretty sure it is.

[low10s]

as mentioned above the drake pipe will add lowend and mid, but the most noticeable to me is how smooth it is. you cant go wrong with it i have it on an rb x12 and love it.

[jdm3849]

*Re-subscribing to thread*

I have pulled out my XNT after over a year, got it running and the Mach .15 maxed at like 231 degrees. Thats the highest it's ever been, never bogged or stalled but seemed too hot. Last year I had it running at 209 degrees max and it ran as smooth as butter.


Thanks

[losiguy1090]

231 is just fine for a .15 or for any small block.

doesnt anyone have anything to say bout my nt?

[ross]

The pic is to small for us to see. ;)

[losiguy1090]

i couldnt make it any bigger.

[L-S-C]

Your truck looks pretty good Losiguy. What engine/pipe combo is that?

I got the updated fuel tank yesterday, put it in last night and today I ran it and did some tuning. I like it alot better, it seems alot easier to tune. I'm still running it a bit on the rich side, but it's still making lots of power. I'm running a .12 O.S. CV-R non pull start, stock pipe manifold, and Trinity 20% platinum. I'm happy with the new tank.

Jon

[MBX4RR]

Glad to hear it^^^
What are your opions on an aluminum front block. Im thinking the added wheight out wheighs the benefits of durability because I have only broken one the entire time I owned my xxx-nt

and not to get of topic :rolleyes: but if anyone would like a radio im selling my Futaba 3PJS on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5902703429&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

[ross]

MBX4RR,
I dont think there is a real need for it, my mate ran one once only reason because the trackside shop didnt have the plastic one instock but he did like the extra weight it gave on the front end but that depends on your setup.

[losiguy1090]

lsc, thats a cx12 drake and a fantom pipe[engine is new, 10 tanks, pipe is old, had it since last spring]. prolly getting a novarossi 51602.

edit, and i have the drake manifold on there too.

[Strike 4]

lsc, thats a cx12 drake and a fantom pipe[engine is new, 10 tanks, pipe is old, had it since last spring]. prolly getting a novarossi 51602.

edit, and i have the drake manifold on there too.


Awesome, say do you happen to know the factory settings on that engine?

[losiguy1090]

no, but i can check my manual later. id check it now but everythings packed up in the car cuz im leavin for a race in about an hour.

[Strike 4]

Thanks, the reason I ask is I cant find the factory settings for my CX12-PR2, because of this it has been sitting for months. I looked through the manual and on Novarossi's home page and I cant find it! :mad:

[rccarman5]

hey guys, well i was doing a rebuild in my tranny. and the diff bearings (blue teflon seals) need to be relubed, i had removed the seals and now they are in carb cleaner(well the buggy blast) so after i'm done, how should i relub them? i got some stuff from radioshack that is for those bearings, it even has teflon, will this work? what oil should i use. what oil do youguys use.

oh i got the new alumin top shaft, it's o straight that the spur gear does not wobble at all.

[rccarman5]

Oh and i was wondering if i can use communtator drops for electric motors? would that work? let me know. or should i stick w/ the radioshack teflon bearing lube.

[thefasttrack]

heres pick of my car

[thefasttrack]

and another

[rccarman5]

why didn't u buy threaded shocks? i dont really like them though, they look ugly. and i can get them cheap on ebay. i will need some shocks soon and i think i'lljust buy teh separate smooth bodied shocks.

[thefasttrack]

needs to be cleaned
1. has os cvrx
2. airtronics mx-3 radio system
3.hitec 635 mg
4. some graphite
5 some titanium linkages
6. odonell pipe (the best you can get)
7. jr battery pack on shock tower 800 millamp
cost me 30 bucks
8. associated green fronts shocks
9. robinson racing diff gear.

[thefasttrack]

why didn't u buy threaded shocks? i dont really like them though, they look ugly. and i can get them cheap on ebay. i will need some shocks soon and i think i'lljust buy teh separate smooth bodied shocks.

didnt need to waste the money these work fine for me i havent broke these yet the clamps still hold tightly

[Battle Max]

from my experience smooth body shocks tend to come off during race conditions or backyard bashing jumps. The screw on shocks will secure them onto the shock body and they will not go anywhere.

speaking of shocks i keep breaking the bottom of my shock that goes over the pivot ball and connects to the rear arms. The bottom of it pops off and leaves the pivot ball and the allen screw still on the arms. I tried just popping the pivot ball back in but i guess its stripped and pops off easy again.

Hope this makes sense.

Jon

[rccarman5]

i hate when that happens, i broke mine off, and took that piece from my salvaged rc10.

[thefasttrack]

that has never hppened to me i jump my car lika t the races but like 3 times higher like 10-15 feet ivv done before nothing ever happens to my car at least

[losiguy1090]

i dont have threaded on my truck. had it for 2 years and havnt had any problems. i dont see the need for them since i dont change the ride height very often.

[Shady]

my first nt went for almost 3 years racing with smooth shock bodies and never had a problem with them, only reson i have threaded on mine is they came with the drake truck so i just used them

[low10s]

here is a pick of my DE with RB x12/drake pipe.

[losiguy1090]

sweet truck

[losiguy1090]

i was taking my diff apart tonight to lube it. while taking it apart, the thrust bearing assembly fell out :mad: is there anywhere where i can buy a thrust bearing that wont fall apart when i take apart the diff or better yet an assembled diff? thanks :mad:

[losiguy1090]

wut about this? http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSA3098 or is that the same thing? all i know is that i hate the stock one with the how u have so put the bearings on the washer and put the grease on there. thats a pita.

[losiguy1090]

anyone?

[low10s]

i seen that before and started to get it, like you was not sure it would work. so i stayed with ole faithfull.

[losiguy1090]

thanks. i think ill try it out. anythings gotta be better than the stock one ;)

[Racin Rev]

For those of you who have put the traxxas captured ends on the rear. I tried this for the beginning of this season and I am having problems with the turnbuckles pulling out of them. I went with the longest lunsford turnbuckles i could get to get as much thread as possible into them but at best i can hold them in for only a couple of races with a liberal dose of ca. if you are having success what are you doing? :confused:

Thanks :o

[Animeboy123]

hey all, does anyone know the part number for the drake tuned pipe?? I can use it with the RTR Sport manifold right??

Also does anyone recomend some good %20 nitro fuel?

[tr918]

Animeboy123- Drake pipe A9332, Drake manifold A9345, Silicone coupling tube A9325. The drake pipe will work with the rtr manifold. The silicone coupling on the RTR is the same as the coupling used on the Drake pipe.


Here is the link to Losi's exploded view for the xxxt Drake.

http://www.teamlosi.com/pdfs/xxxnt_AD/PRICELIST.pdf

[losiguy1090]

IMO, i think odonnell is the best fuel.

[LoSick]

just tried my evo legal with sidewinder 30 nitro, turbo plug, along with a new rd logics inline pipe system $48.( designed for trucks with rear exhaust), a bigger wing and it´ll fly. running with the 20teeth,
Animeboy123, trinity monster is a good fuel. I´d save some money to get a decent performance engine before getting a pipe.

[losiguy1090]

why do u think he should get an engine first? a new pipe will make the stock engine even faster and if he gets it now he wont have to spend the extra money to get it with his new engine.

[MikeWz]

Animeboy- Do you plan on racing? If so than you probably won't be able to use the Mach. Most places I've come across only allow .12 engines for racing. If that is the case than I'd recommend a Fantom FR-12 engine. If you look you can find them for about $125 and they put out excellent power for the money. I've found they put out a little bit more power than an OS CV engine with the same reliability.
If racing isn't want you're looking at than a drake pipe will do you just fine. You may also want to look into a CVEC. They aren't race legal but they are tuneable, put out a good amount of power and sound really nice.

[WheelNut]

Racin Rev- I've been using lunsford ti buckles and RPM long shank ball cups for months and it holds so well I've never popped a ball cup, but I have blown 3 bearings and I just broke a ball stud, thats how well it holds! Time for Ti studs and better bearings, then I'll probably have to get Al hubs though.....damn....

Anime Boy- Why dont you check out Fantom steel pipes? I think I might get one of those. The best pipe I've tried is the kit pipe, it works really good! Tried Paris ring, the AE team, and AE rtr pipe the kit pipe works better than all of them.

[Racin Rev]

WheelNut,

that's funny, i never had any luck with the rpm's on the inside rears. everywhere else they work well.

I do have longer turnbuckles now maybe it would make a difference.

[Animeboy123]

alright thanks guys,

MikeWz, i do not plan on racing ntro right now. When i do start racing i have T4( :D ).

[losiguy1090]

u have a t4? i thought u said u wanted to race :p haha i crack myself up

[MikeWz]

Wheelnut-I've got the dual chamber fantom pipe on my MT12 XXX-NT. It's the most amazing pipe I've ever run. Much better run times and def better power. Mostly due to the fact that they're steel. They are a bit heavey and they aren't the best looking things out there but they work like a dream....and they sound really nice

Losiguy- Lol @ u :p

Animeboy- Losiguy is right ;)

[Battle Max]

this may be a stupid question i appologize if it is but is there anyway you can convert the mach engine from a pullstart to a bump start?????

thanks,

Jon

[Strike 4]

I gotta serious problem, my XXX-NT wheelies WAY too much. Basically it will go veritcle and ride on the battery box it even does rolling wheelies. Is there any kind of wheelie bar for the XXX-NT?

[ross]

Battle Max,
Yes you can, just go onto Horizon and order the non pullstart crankshaft and non pullstart backplate. You can also use a non pullstart manifold but its not essential.

Strike 4,
No I dont know of any wheelie bar for the XXXNT. But there are a few ways to reduce wheelies. First you could restrict your engine either by EPA on your radio or by a carb restrictor. Second you could gear up, this will reduce acceleration and therefore should reduce wheelies but increase top speed! Lastly you could stick some lead weight onto the front bulkhead. Good luck. Just out of interest which engine are you running?

[Strike 4]

CX-12PR2, I dont want to stop the wheelies I just want to make them controlable and not scratch up my batt. box. I will get action photos soon. Oh and I am using stock gearing on the RTR.

[losiguy1090]

get a carb restrictor. that way if u want to get the extra power back, all u have to do is pop the restrictor.

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

B4 you convert.....

Yes, the bump box is really nice for the first cold start, BUT....

Once the engine is warmed up, you can put on the glo lighter, a yank or two on the pull start, and away you go.

IMHO, the bump box + a pull start is the best of both worlds.

[MikeWz]

By the time you buy a Shaft and backplate it's almost worth buying a new engine. One that's more powerful, more reliable and race-legal. If you're not racing than it's not even worth getting rid of the pull start.

Strike-Are you talking on Pavement? I'm assuming you're talking about on pavement. Either way what it sounds like you need to do is loosen the slipper not a bit more and learn how to control the trigger finger a bit better. You can add a restricter, loosen the slipper nut etc....but what's going to help you most on the track is learning to control the trigger finger...but while you're learning loosen up on the slipper a bit :p

[Strike 4]

I am running 15% nitro and 18% oil and it still wheelies, I need the power for racing so I willl have to work with the throttle control. Anyway arent Novarossis supposed to have a smooth powerband? Also I am thinking about either getting a Fantom or RB pipe what's your opinion.

[Battle Max]

thats a good point i mean i have yet to have any problems with my mach engine i love it i am able to race at my local tracks and even at one of the biggest races in so cal the offroad shootout. On the back straight of my local track when i gun it i have no problem really keeping up with the rest of the pack. The engine has enough power to get me where i need to go and i plan on keeping it until it dies. I was just curious if you could convert it into a bump start just as an option of doing one day when im bored.

[MikeWz]

Well...I can't speak for the Novarossi but I can speak for the Fantom. I run the dual chamber on my MT12 and it really helped. The dual chamber has a super smooth power band and adds a bit more to the top-end. It makes it much easier to drive, adds more run time and sounds super cool. It's a bit expensive but it's 110% worth it

[Got Speed]

Battle Max- If you have a dremel all you need to do is buy a non-pull start backplate and then cut the little pin off on the end of the crankshaft. You can use a starter box with a pull start engine but you don't get the small performance differences you would by taking it off. I'm not sure you can do this but I am guessing that if you don't want to buy anything you could just take all of the pull start assembly out of the pull-start housing and just put the pull-start housing back on. You would have to cover the hole in the pull start housing where the pull start cord goes through.

[Strike 4]

I broke my car today, lets just say 30 foot jump into cement on the rear battery box. I broke the hub. I noticed that these go out easy on Losi cars?

[speedydave]

30 foot jump onto cement? I'm surprised that's all you broke.

[Got Speed]

Strike 4- The hubs are probably the next weakest part after the rear pivot block and rear inside ball cups. Again, if you take care of it the Losi isn't going to break more than other race worthy trucks out there. I would suggest getting alum. ones if you can. Some people don't like the weight but there is very very little difference and ST are so light anyway it dosn't really matter. Besides it dosn't matter how fast your truck is if it is broke. The Trinity ones allow you to add or remove shims under the ball studs. More adjusments is nice but some like this are ones you would very rarely if ever use. Trinity's run about $30, come only in blue, and seen them in 1 and 2 degrees. There are other companys that make them for about the same price in blue or silver, all are 2 degs. except for Titan Tech who also make 0 degrees, and most of them are made like the stock peices except they arn't 1 deg. GPM makes ones that are just like the stock ones(including being 1 deg hubs), they make them in lots of colors, and they run about $16. It's the best deal as long as the roll center adjustment isn't a big deal to you.

[Racin Rev]

or you could roll the throttle so that you arn't putting all the power down at once. you could add a little exponential to your radio which makes this easier. you could dial in a little slip in your slipper to take some of the edge off.

[Got Speed]

If you still want the power and don't want to mess with your suspension then you could add weight to the front. If you need to get a little edge off the bottom end then I suggest drilling a 3/32nd hole in the clutch shoes and putting a diff ball in it. It will cause the clutch to engage sooner taking the edge off the bottom end.

[Strike 4]

I figured that was the second weak point since I got a aluminum rear pivot block. I should have got it on video! :mad: :mad: :mad:

[Animeboy123]

u have a t4? i thought u said u wanted to race :p haha i crack myself up


lol its that Losi vs. Associated thing right.

I love my T4, its very durable and the suspension geometry os great. It handles great and jumps like a dream.

Strike4, dont worry when i launch my NT off of a jump like u did i'll be sure to get it on tape, my friend records all of the stupid stuff we do with our cars.

[losiguy1090]

yeah yeah yeah. but its not as good as an mf2 :p

3000th post :D

[rcwardy]

Hello
I have recently bought a Drake edition truck and previously I had an RC10Gt.
Does anyone know if the short shaft engine (I have the OS 15 CVR with pre-shortened shaft) used in the GT will work in the Drake?
I think I read somewhere it will work but I am not sure.
Cheers
Pete

[Got Speed]

rcwardy- You can but it will be easier for it too loosen up. Be sure to use enough loc-tite.

[MikeWz]

GS what do you think of the GPM parts? I'm still thinking about getting them. The only thing that delayed me was somebody said that GPM uses a softer aluminum which is why their parts are so inexpensive. That's why I was debating. 'Lemme know what you think.

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- Yeah, I do like them. No durability issues whatsoever. I was somewhat sceptical at first too because someone also told me they were using softer metals but I emailed him and asked. He said they were using 6061 which is the same as all of the other NT alum. upgrades.

It's been a while since the Nitro Challenge but I just now came across a few pics so I thought I'd post them. LMK what you think.

[Got Speed]

Another

[Got Speed]

One more. These were taken during pratice which is why the track is a little dry and I'm running my old pratice body. :p

[astainback]

I just wanted to ask what was the easiest way to take out the steering servo. I need to re-center my steering, and I want to take the servo-saver off, center the servo, and reattach it. I know how to take it out, and all that, but what would be the best way to recenter??

thanks

[losiguy1090]

the only way to take out the servo with the stock top deck is to take off the top deck. to recenter it, just reset the steering trim to zero and put on the servo horn as shown in the instructions. might not go on quit perfect, but thats what trim adjustments are for ;)

[ross]

rcwardy,
Depends how short your short crank is, some people say you might just be able to get the clutch nut on if your plentiful with the thread lock. However when I did the same thing the crank was flush with the flywheel, so a new crank it was. Id say it would be worth buying a new crank just so you know it not going to cause you any problems.

astrain back,
If you just want to center the servo you can do it without taking the the servo out, just take the front end off and it gives you access to the servo horn.

Just thought Id attach some latest pics of my Drake:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ross2000/DVC00005.JPG

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ross2000/DVC00008.JPG

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ross2000/DVC00011.JPG

[losiguy1090]

sweet truck ross. :cool:

[Maltrio]

Wow, I just got a SUPER deal on an XXX-NT from a guy in Missouri. I have to tell someone about this killer deal!! Here is what I got for only $120:
-XXX-NT with graphite A-arms and shock towers
-XXX-NT rolling chassie with threaded shocks
-Futaba Magnum radio
-Mach .15 engine (currently rebuilding)
-OS .12 (sold)
-Glow starter
-Glow chargers
-3/4 of a gallon of Blue Thunder
-Fuel bottles
-2 Bodies

I can't wait to get this thing running!! This has definitly been the best $120 I've spent in my life!!

[rcwardy]

I am after a set-up for grass/very high grip for my Drake.
I have tried running the front stiff with heavier damping and this worked well with schumacher stagger ribs and allowed you to turn into corners quite hard without grip roll. The problem with this set-up was that it made the back seem a bit loose. I tried running lugnuts on the back and stagger ribs but the rear kept stepping out.
What I am after is a set-up I can drive hard into and through corners and will allow me to use spiked rears and lugnuts if the grass is short and the dirt comes through.
Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
Cheers
Pete

[losiguy1090]

go stiffer and raise the ride height. and if your running in the grass u may wanna tighten up the diff a lil.

[ross]

rcwardy,
This is the setup I use:
30wt oil all round
Red springs all round (orange on rear if higher grip)
Pistons opposite to manual (1 spacer under front)
Front bottom pos - middle
Front top pos - 2nd hole out from inside
Rear bottom pos - Outer most
Rear top pos - 2nd hole out
Rear hubs opposite way round to manual (left hub on right side and vice versa)
100g weight in battery box, batteries on front (see my pics on last page)

Staggered ribs usally work great in low/med grip conditions although I run pink compound which are really hard to come by now with ARP cut spikes/step pins or Traxxas pins on the back, try has soft as you can get though. In high grip conditions the the standard ribs or smashers work well on the front with step pins on the back.

[losiguy1090]

how do u like using reds in the rear? i find i cant get a good setup running em in the rear.

heres my setup
30 wt all around
red in front, orange in rear
56 pistons all around
front bottom, mid
front top, 2nd hole
rear bottom, inside
rear top, outermost
rear hubs all the way forward
2 1/4 oz on batt box[placed on a peice of removable lexan, ill try and take a pic]
and i unscrewed the rear shocks 1.5 turns.
ride height, arms all around

tires depend on surface

[ross]

The reds on the rear worked well last season, but last meeting I found they were a little soft has the grip went up so I put oranges on the rear and they were noticably better. I've left them on so I'll see how they do this weekend.

That setup I posted above was from the top of my head so there may be slight mistakes in it, when Ive got my setup sheets to hand, Ill check it.

Whats the idea of unscrewing the rear shocks 1.5 turns losiguy? Ive never heard of doing that before, interesting!

[rcwardy]

Thanks for that set-up Ross.
What tyres did you use at Oswestry? I was running my RC10GT there and was using stagger ribs and ARP cut spikes. i thought about going to ribs at the front but couldn't get enough steering out of them.
I tried a set-up at Brandon last weekend similar to my RC10 - Front heavy springs and oil and rear softer with lighter oil this worked well with stagger ribs and spikes but when the track started to wear I tried lugnuts and ribs and had zero steering.
I will try your set-up and go from there.

[losiguy1090]

unscrewing the rear shocks makes the truck go through the rough stuff better and increases off power steering.

ross, what are those little sheilds on your rear a arms? do they keep the universals cleaner?

[Maltrio]

Anyone know where I can find a replacement throttle return spring? TIA

[losiguy1090]

im pretty sure u can find em on www.horizonhobby.com but id reccomend getting a failsafe instead. ive had reviever batts go dead a few times[before i got a failsafe] and the trs never closed the throttle.

[Got Speed]

Maltrio- Do you have a slide carb or rotary? If it is slide I would suggest getting two springs and putting one on the carb and attaching it to the other side of the carb or something. This should only be able to pull the carb shut without the linkage attached. Then get another spring and attach it to the servo arm and battery box. Together these should pull it shut without putting much strain on the servo. I've used this setup for quite a while and it works great for me.

[rcwardy]

Ross
What is the effect of reversing the rear hubs?

[ross]

rcwardy,
At Oswestry I first tried step pins all round which gave me no front end grip, so I put the Staggered ribs on and it was alot better and has mentioned I changed from red springs on the back to oranges which was also an improvment. I have run the hubs in reverse since I bought the truck because I was told that because of the increased toe in it makes it alot more stable on the straights. If you come and see me at one of the meetings Ill give you the setup sheet so you have it to hand whenever you need it, although dont blame me if you dont get on with the setup! ;)

Losiguy,
Because we race on grass over here, its not uncommon for the grass to build up on the driveshafts, its suprising how much grass around your driveshafts slows your truck down! It also puts added strain on your driveshafts. Those guards work awesome and reduce if not eliminate the problem.

[rcwardy]

Cheers Ross
I am going to miss Weston Park this weekend and Mold National due to work.
I will hopefully make the final 3 truck nationals of the year. Any chance you could scan a set-up sheet and e-mail it to me - I know it is cheeky but it would be a great help.
Thanks
Pete

[Got Speed]

Like ross said it decreases the rear toe. Personally for my track I don't like it that way. I prefer the standard 1 deg.

[losiguy1090]

i too run the hubs reversed. i like the way it handles better.

[rhcsavage21]

i am so happy right now i finaly got my fr12 today, i just have one problum i have no fuel and i'm out of money

[losiguy1090]

haha :p

[rhcsavage21]

butthead

:D

[tpirocz]

i think i have asked this before but i cant seem to find where. im looking for a new hardware set for my nxt. does anyone make a kit, or do i have to peice one together?

[losiguy1090]

rc screwz makes screw kits for 500+ kits. stainless steel. i have one on my nt and i love it.

savage, haha u said butt and head :D

[MikeWz]

R/C Screwz makes one, I believe lunsford makes one and Hardcore Racing makes a titanium one....but don't get that because they over charge for a set of screws. I think it's something like $100 for a freaking set of screws. They better be made of the absolute lightest and most durable material ever....which titanium isn't.

[rhcsavage21]

rc screwz makes screw kits for 500+ kits. stainless steel. i have one on my nt and i love it.

savage, haha u said butt and head :D


HA HA HA HA (LOL)

good one :D

[MikeWz]

Hey GS, what are the stock settings for the MT12? I had one sitting for a while and don't remember if I messed with the needles or not. I gotta break her in yet because my stupid Box broke last season.

[dkj-M3]

most novas, are about 4.5 on top & 1.5 on bottom, it should be close with the mugen.

[jdm3849]

I just bought new rear hubs and a shocktower because there were no holes left for the ballstuds (many broke off).
What holes should I put the ballstuds in this time? Inner, outer, or middle of shocktower? What will the different locations do to the performance of my truck?
Does reversing the hubs make a notible difference in stability?

Thanks

[dkj-M3]

what kind of surface are you running on. If on a track the drakes set-up is pretty much dialed everywhere.

http://www.teamlosi.com/pictures/jpegsetups/xxxNT/xxx-nt_std_adam03.jpg

[jdm3849]

Sorry that I forgot to say where I run. But its on a non-proffesionally made track with loose thick black dirt. Pretty much bashing around the track.

[dkj-M3]

what tires are you running in the rear, if you don't have them. try red losi Studs or Step-pins. Tires have the biggest effect on set-ups. I would still use drakes set-up with those tires. or you can change the oil in the shocks to 30 all the way around. It will make the truck easier to drive.

[dkj-M3]

oh yeah forgot to say, 56 red pistons with red springs for the shocks.

[MikeWz]

most novas, are about 4.5 on top & 1.5 on bottom, it should be close with the mugen.
4.5 :eek:
Wow, all the other engines I've ever run are like 2.5-3 on the top during break-in and like 2ish for racing. That's odd. I suppose I'll go like 4ish and run the LSN flush and go from there. Thanks

[Got Speed]

jdm3849- Yes, the different positions do affect the handling. I suggest the stock position but you can mess around with the other settings too to see how it drives.

MikeWz- Sorry, I'm not sure on what they are. I looked in the manual too and it dosn't say.

cave- Scott let us run 10min mains again saturday. He said he will do it regularly every 1st saturday of the month. He dosn't seem to mind doing it if we have the marshals for it. Unfortuanately the marshals we had saturday were pretty bad. Several of the good electric guys were saying if Scott keeps doing the 10min mains they are going to buy gas trucks to race too.

[dgrobe2112]

the Drake setup is the starting point.. and then little adjustments from there..

[dkj-M3]

4.5 :eek:
Wow, all the other engines I've ever run are like 2.5-3 on the top during break-in and like 2ish for racing. That's odd. I suppose I'll go like 4ish and run the LSN flush and go from there. Thanks


Found them:

4 turns out on top and 2 1/2 in from flush on bottom. Honestly though they are just for starting points. My MT 12 ranges from 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 on top depending on weather. Sometimes even 5 turns out seemed to be what it wanted

[Karlos Fandango]

/thread drift
Can someone point me in the direction of some good retailers that have a wide choice of parts/hop-ups for the XXXNT. Just looked at Horizon but it seems they don't ship to the UK and Tower hobbies don't have avery good choice.

Cheers all

[dgrobe2112]

Karlos.. there arent a lot of hopups for the XXXNT.. youcan get all aluminum if you want.. but the XXXNT is a solid truck from the box.. but you can try.. www.rctrix.com
has lots of stuff.. uhh.. i think www.holeshoteng.com or something like that.. has some carbon fiber for the XXXNT

[dgrobe2112]

im sorry.. its www.rctricks.com

[MikeWz]

And those are factory settings for break-in...or is that just for normal running? I mean if you run a 4 1/2 normally sometimes that can't be for break-in.
Found them:

4 turns out on top and 2 1/2 in from flush on bottom. Honestly though they are just for starting points. My MT 12 ranges from 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 on top depending on weather. Sometimes even 5 turns out seemed to be what it wanted

Karlos-I think you'll find the most options on ebay. Search both for XXX-NT and XXXNT. You can get Carbon Fiber stuff, drake stuff, aluninum stuff etc. You can change EVERY part on the truck if so desired.

[dkj-M3]

4 turns out on top and 2 1/2 in from flush on bottom. break-in settings

[Got Speed]

Karlos Fandago- Like MikeWz said look on ebay. You should find alot of different parts on there.

[MikeWz]

Okay cool. I just hope it actually works this time...not that it's the engines fault. Gay freakin Ofna box couldn't turn over the motor. I had teh plug loose and everything. It started once and quit, then the box motor died :(

[Karlos Fandango]

Cheers chaps. I wasn't too bothered about the hop-ups side of things more a case of getting a few spares. Whats the carbon stuff like?? Will it be more likely to snap? Horizon got back to me and they do ship some stuff to the UK so looks like I'll be getting an order together :D It's ridiculous the price of things over in the US. I could probably replace everything with carbon fibre more cheaply by importing than it would cost to replace with plastic from the UK. You jammy bunch of gits :p

Thanks for the other suggestions, and Ebay in the UK is about 10% of what you guys have:(

[Karlos Fandango]

Forgot to ask, whats the monster diff do? I melted two standard diff gears and wondered if this is an improvement. As I have killed two diff gears would the aluminium one on horizon be bullet proof or does that have other issues? What other parts of the truck would you carry spares for?

Cheers

[ross]

Karlos,
There are quite a few model shops over here that carry spares for the XXXNT and will post if you dont live near to them.
Correct me if Im wrong but the 'Monster Diff' refers to the standard one. You should have no problem with the standard diff if its built right, Ive been racing mine for nearly a year now and have never had to even touch the diff. If you want more details on how I build my diff then let me know because its slightly different from the method in the manual. I've never ran the aluminium diff gear but a mate has, and I know it has issues but I cant remember what they were.
Has for spares - Diff gear, Ball Cups, Wishbones, Hubs & Knuckles, Spur gear that should probably OK to start off with, but you'll find that has you know what you break often youll carry more spares of that particular part.

[tr918]

Karlos,
Ross said -If you are having trouble with the diff it is more than likely not built right. That can be true. The majority of the problems usually come from not having it adjusted correctly. Got speed posted a very nice write up on how to adjust the diff in the xxxnt v8.0 thread. If I can find it I will post a link. Also in the back of the xxxnt manual there is a very basic explanation on adjusting the diff it is not bad but it leaves a few things out that GS explained in his write up. Good luck.

[tr918]

Karlos- Sorry, I told you wrong. It is in the xxxnt V7.0 thread. Here is the link. http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135715&page=12&pp=25

If the link does not work go to Team Losi XXXNT forum v7.0 - page 12.

-TR

[Karlos Fandango]

Excellent. The first one I killed was down to me fiddling and tightening it too much. When fitting the second one I lost one of the diff balls so went with 11. Now that I've taken it apart again it seems that the 11 balls have built up a little extra heat and started to distort a couple of the holes that the balls sit in. I've now got another set of balls and diff gear on order. On assembly I will be following the advice above to the letter.

Thanks,

Karl

[LoSick]

Excellent. The first one I killed was down to me fiddling and tightening it too much. When fitting the second one I lost one of the diff balls so went with 11. Now that I've taken it apart again it seems that the 11 balls have built up a little extra heat and started to distort a couple of the holes that the balls sit in. I've now got another set of balls and diff gear on order. On assembly I will be following the advice above to the letter.

Thanks,

Karl

Get 12 carbide balls and enough stealth grease, that should do it, try dace manufacturing, they have nice hop ups for the truck. hope it helps

[dgrobe2112]

the carbon fiber is good.. they got aluminum support in it aas well.. what some of us here have been doing.. is making our own upper shock tower support.. pretty easy to do.. makes it where the top dont break as easy..

[Karlos Fandango]

You lot are going to cost me a fortune :D:D Final question for now, in the diff how do the 12 bevelled washers go. In the manual it says 6 one way and 6 the other, but I'm sure there was an extra piece of paper in the kit that said different to this??

[dkj-M3]

that's the old setting they should all face the same way, I only use 11 instead of the 12, it makes it easier to thread the diff nut. They face away from the head of the nut.
\\\\\\ ___[]
////// []


hope that works.


You are most likely melting the diff gear, because your slipper is too tight. You always want the slipper to slip before the diff. You actually never want the diff to slip, This is what will cause you to burn up the diff gear.

[dkj-M3]

threads \\\\\\\\ head of bolt
////////

[dkj-M3]

braaaaaaaaaaaa, poo

[Karlos Fandango]

:D :D :D :D I get what you mean ;)

[ross]

I use 10 in this formation:
*Diff Nut*((((()))))

[dgrobe2112]

i use them all in this formation..

----))))))))))))--[]

[dgrobe2112]

howz that for a little pic.. :)

[dkj-M3]

doh, hehe

[Got Speed]

tr918- Thanks

Karlos Fandango- The monster diff does refer to the stock diff like ross said. You can also run the spring instead of the washers. It functions as well as the washer but the settings are a little broader. Since they arn't as sensitive they will be a little easier to adjust untill you get the hang of it. The losi diff is great if built and adjusted right. So as long as you adjust it and don't let the nut and thrust assembly wear out to the point of loosening then you should never have problems with it. As for the alum. gear. I would not suggest that. It adds more rotating mass and it only helps the result not the cause of a problem. Many times if your diff is not adjusted right alum gear won't strip but will heat up and cause one of the other gears to slip.

Hope this helps.

[dgrobe2112]

actually the RRP diff gear does not add much weight if any.. however.. it does not transfer heat very well.. that is why i dont run it.. if your diff is built correctly.. you should have no trouble..

Karlos.. also check that the slipper slips before the diff does.. check this buy holding the spur gear and right rear tire with one hand.. then turning the left rear wheel.. the slipper should turn before anything else does.. if it does not.. loosen the slipper.. the manual says.. what 3 turns out.. however in the drake manual it says 5 turns out.. i have mine set at round 5.25-5.5 turns out..

[cabbynate]

Has anyone tried the VLA arms on there NT? I'm thinkin that the short arm set up might be the ticket on a good traction step-pin track like The Dirt in Hemet CA.

[dkj-M3]

Use the short arm set-up it will smooth out the steering, the outer hole will be jerkey.

[dkj-M3]

By the way thought I'd run this past you guys.

2004 Ohio State Offroad Championship
July 2-4

Being held at Dirt Country RC Raceway. www.dcrcr.com

Go here for the flyer:
http://www.dcrcr.com/DCStateRace2k4.jpg

http://www.dcrcr.com/IM002916.jpg
We feature a 140' wide by 70' deep hard pack clay track located adjacent to the Dirt Country Moto-cross track. The track provides plenty of traction and limited tire wear. As you can see from the picture we have mixed in some mulch to help the track retain moisture and provide a more enjoyable race service. The track is built to accommodate all forms of racing, this is not a 1/8 scale only or electric only track. There is something for everybody.

There is ample parking and pit area but you will need to bring your own shelter from the sun, table and chair. Electric is provided but please bring an extension cord and surge protector. The track will be changed 3-4 times through the season so the picture here may not always be the current layout.

ROAR Membership is required to race at the track however ROAR membership is not required for practice. We have had to do this because of rising insurance costs and the increasing popularity of the larger more dangerous classes (1/8 scale and MT).

The layouts are made by the one & only Steve King, who makes the best fun MX style tracks in Ohio, that are easy on parts. The track also has mad traction for an outdoor track. With Tony (Skipgear) Hines running the mic, it's one of the smoothest running programs around. Not to mention that, this is Jesse Robbers home track, he just won the 2wd class ROAR Modified Nats over all the big name guys Kinwald, Francis, Cavilieri & Drake himself.

Dirt Country will also be holding the 3rd round of the North RC Pro-Series race the weekend of Sept. 3-5. I hear Adam Drake might be able to make that race. He's good friends with Jesse & Skip.

[dkj-M3]

Here is the current layout, enjoy.
http://www.dcrcr.com/photogallery/out6604/DC6-6-04640.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

That track looks nice.. too bad i live in Texas... and dont go to Ohio.. :( but sure looks like you are gonna have alot of fun

[cabbynate]

Use the short arm set-up it will smooth out the steering, the outer hole will be jerkey.
Thanks for the input dkj-M3.
I will try the short arm, 3 bulkhead and A on the spindle carrier.
By the looks of that track I need to move out to the mid west....... :eek:

[Got Speed]

cabbynate- VLA arms? What's that? I've never used any shorter arms so I can't really comment but I know that when I was out at The Dirt for the Nitro Challenge my normal hard packed high traction setup pushed pretty bad. The drake setup really seems to shine out there. It's deffinately a track you want power on too. You can grab the throttle and still be in control.

dkj_m3- I saw some pictures of on of their other layouts. Looks like you always have an awesome layout. Things are improving significantly here in AZ. Maybe soon we will get some big jumps and lanes like that here. lol

[rhcsavage21]

ok i finnally was abel to get my new fantom motor to the break-inn point but whne i whent to start it fired up then died and it would keep doing that2 more times then i let it sit and when i put the glow igniter on it started up by itself i did'ent even have the starter box on but after that the thing locked up and i can't move it at all and i took the glow plug out and found the engine not flodded but it still won't move. what should i do? :(

[dgrobe2112]

ok.. there is no way that the motor would have started.. if you didnt turn it over.. unless the pinch in the motor is tight enough to push the piston down.. and crank it.. if that is the case.. . you may have broken the rod.. i dont know.. never heard of that happening..

Also.. just cuz the glow plug is not in the motor.. dont mean it wont get stuck at TDC (top dead center) that is what i think the problem is.. get an old flat head screw driver.. and go from underneath the chassis.. and try to complete the turn.. by basically pryin on the flywheel to get it to turn over..

you will definitly need a charged ignitor.. im talkin let it charge overnight.. also.. a good charged box starter.. i would prolly plug it into a car battery to make sure.. cuz its gonna be a pain in the a$$ to break it in with a weak box..

so.. here is my opinions..

first.. try to turn over the motor with a screw driver from underneath the chassis..

2nd.. going off of what you said.. the pinch in the sleeve could have pushed the rod into the down stroke.. before it needed.. and broke the rod.. but i doubt that happened.. that is worst case scenario..

[ross]

I remember reading in my OS manual that sometimes engines can spontaniously (sp?) fire up without been turned over. Weather this is true or not I dont know but if it is I would have thought it would be very rare!

Id agree with that dgrobe2112 said, use a flat head screw driver to get the piston down to TDC.

[rhcsavage21]

ok this is what i found out so far. the piston was stuck at top dead center and i did get it out. i think the reason it woild'ent move was becuse the box was not fully charged. i will leave it charging over night to see if that helps. but the box is still having trouble. what should i do it power it up if need be.

[cabbynate]

cabbynate- VLA arms? What's that? I've never used any shorter arms so I can't really comment but I know that when I was out at The Dirt for the Nitro Challenge my normal hard packed high traction setup pushed pretty bad. The drake setup really seems to shine out there. It's deffinately a track you want power on too. You can grab the throttle and still be in control.

dkj_m3- I saw some pictures of on of their other layouts. Looks like you always have an awesome layout. Things are improving significantly here in AZ. Maybe soon we will get some big jumps and lanes like that here. lol
The VLA arms come from the MF2. Just another tuning option.

[Racin Rev]

with a new motor you would likely need to use the heat gun (blowdrier) on the head to expand the tolerances before attempting to start. I am guessing that the piston got shoved to tdc and is stuck in the pinch. the head heating trick should free it up (it may take a while). I always use this technique before even attempting to start a new or un fully broken in motor. Ultimately it will make your engine last longer.

[dgrobe2112]

if you are having trouble getting your box to turn over the motor.. use your car battery.. that will give your box motor the most juice.. also.. let the box spin up all the way.. before you let the wheel hit the flywheel.. it will take some time.. and yes.. like Racinrev said.. use a blow dryer.. and heat the motor as warm as you can.. prefferable as close to operating temp as you can get... before you start the motor..

[ross]

rhcsavage21,
If you can afford it invest in the Thunder Tiger/Associated starter box, it will turn your brand new engine over straight away with no trouble at all. I was having problems with my old starter box because it wouldnt turn my new CVR over, so I bought the TTR box and it turned it over easily with the glo plug fully tight. Same goes for my new Sirio Evo 2. I know it might seem a bit much to go out and buy a new box but if you can sell your old one it really is worth it!
Other than that try what Racin Rev and dgrobe2112 said.

[offroadcrazy01]

Any body here going to race the shoot out at www.hotrodhobbies.com in socal

[Battle Max]

hopefully ill be racing the shootout i need to knock out alot of practice time these two weeks at revelations but i think im almost ready. ill be there.

[Karlos Fandango]

Whats the maximum voltage you can put through a glow plug? I'm getting fed up of the rechargeable clip on type and want to make something that can run off a car battery like the starter box. Thought I'd better ask before melting the glowplug.

[Racin Rev]

I think ofna makes one that runs off of a 12 volt batt. I think that it allows you some variation in power to the plug. radio south makes one which uses four rechargeable batts and automaticly compensates for resistance in the plug in case of fouling. you shouldn't put more than about 1.5 volts through a glow plug. too much more will fry the plug.

[Karlos Fandango]

Thats saved the life of one glow plug;) I've been running 10% blue thunder fuel in my RBX12 as I was just using the truck for fun. There should be some races coming up so I want to get a bit more power. Will it be safe to go to 20%, and will I need to adjust any engine settings?

Thanks all:D

[MikeWz]

It is safe to run 20%. In fact, that's what most people run while bashing as well. There is more than enough oil in 20% fuel. You will also have to readjust your needles though. Some people say you need to "rebreak-in" your engine, but I haven't found that necessary. I just go easy for the first two tanks and than adjust it on the next one.

[offroadcrazy01]

you need to sign up early I'm going to sign up on the 1 this will be my first big race.Is this your first big race are have done it before,We all have to race on the losi blue tires I have never drove on them before any body here know what they are like

[Battle Max]

no ive raced a few big races in electric but this is my first run with a gas truck. Losi blue tires plain and simply suck i was talking to a few of the guys that have ran the shootout a few times and they basically said you need to re adjust your driving style to compensate for slipping. Im looking foward to it..it should be interesting...Offroad also what track to you usually practice and race at????? im running at revelation raceway ill be on the track alot these two weeks getting my final practice runs in i feel very confident that i will do well.

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

Karlos...

The R/C airplane (gasp!) side of the hobby shop will have power panels, which are made to connect to a 12v supply and power glo plugs (with a current adjust feature), fuel pumps, and airplane style starters.

[tr918]

dkj-m3- That track looks great. Thanks for the info. So far I have only been bashing my xxxnt. The last time I had a chance to race I was driving to Lexington to race my xxt at the Coyote raceway. It has been about 2 years since I have had a chance to race b/c kids and my job. I had heard a few guys at the LHS talking about Dirt Country but I was not sure where it was. I live in Northern KY right next to CVG(Greater Cincinnati International Airport). How long of a drive is it from the airport to Dirt country? I might have to try and get out there. If the job permits. I hate when work gets in the way of my hobby! :D

[dkj-M3]

Probably take you around 30 min or less if you don't hit any bad traffic. There should be dirctions at www.dcrcr.com. Drake just posted that he may try & make the RC Pro-Series race on labor day weekend.
We usually get down to coyote 1 or 2 times a year & have good fun. Can't wait for this years cookout/prize race.

Darrell KJ Wright

[tr918]

dkj-M3 - Thanks. From the directions it looks like a closer alternative to coyote. I will have to try to make it out there.

-TR

[rhcsavage21]

is there a upgrade part to replace the monster diff screw?

[dgrobe2112]

not that i know of.. but there is a upgrade for the diff nut.. made by 1HG

[dkj-M3]

no screw, but losi upgraded the nut to a 1 piece design like HG. it uses the same part number because it was a rolling change.

[Got Speed]

rhcsavage21- No there isn't. There is the newer diff nut and the one dgrobe2112 mentioned. Are you having trouble with the diff screw.

[losiguy1090]

its probly your diff nut carrier. like everyone else said, get the one peice diff nut carrier. its impossible to strip.

[rhcsavage21]

no it no the nut its the screw itself,it keeps snaping in two

[ross]

You might be over tightening the screw.

[rhcsavage21]

probuble (sp?)

[Got Speed]

You are probably either overtightening the screw like ross said or you could be cross-threading it and trying to tighten it.

[Animeboy123]

Alright heres the deal, some of you know i own a RTR XXXNT and i love it ever since i got it running good. I have put almost a gallon of fuel through it and it is running strong for my learing engine. I want to put stronger servos, Ti turnbuckles, rechargeble reciever pack, tuned pipe and i want to start looking at a stronger engine for when i start to look for them down the road.

For the engine, i was thinking something like a O.S. .18 CV-RX w/11J Rotary Carb (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP7&P=0) . Any good? Im not gonna race my NT so i dont really need a .12, would a .18 give me good power?? or should i go with a .12??

For the RX pack i found the Trinity Receiver Pack XXX-NT Hump (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG13&P=7). I found that the Team Orion one was a little cheaper, any diff. in the two??

For the servos i was thinking the Hitec HS-625MG Servo Speed Metal Gear S/JR/Z (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ87&P=7) for the throttle and the Hitec HS-645MG Servo Torque Metal Gear S/JR/Z (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ89&P=7) for the steering.

Since i need a new FM receiver i want to get the XXL for my artronics MX3. For the TI turnbuckles i want to get the lunsford ones and for the tuned pipe it would probably be the drake pipe.

This is gonna tale a long time to get all this stuff so i might change my mind on all of this, so im open for opinions and what i should get first.

Thanks all :)

[losiguy1090]

savage, u must be doing something wrong. ive never snapped one and ive never heard of someone snapping one.

all that stuff sounds pretty good, but the 625 is plenty for the nt. its got 90 oz of tork and .12 transit so its better for st's. 645 would probly be better in a tmaxx. or anything slightly heavier.

[Saboteur]

Anyone try the MT12 slide carb with the stock gearing in a Sport NT? How does it run with the losi re manifold and pipe set?

[ross]

Aimeboy123,
For the engine I would still be tempted with a .12 engine, but thats just my opinion mainly because they are higher reving and more suited to our 1/10th trucks. As for the servo's I would reccomend using 625's all round, the 625 has plently of torque for the steering and is a bit quicker. Everything else seems pretty good.

[rhcsavage21]

well i fixed the screw problum by not tighting like i did the first two time but i love my new fantom .12 , that thing is one fast engine

[Got Speed]

Animeboy123- The 645 or 625 would be good for steering. You said you race so for just bashing through all kinds of things I would lean towards the 645. Since you don't really need it to be .03 secs faster. 625 would be good for throttle/brake(that's what I'm running for throttle/brake now). As for the engine the .18 should make a lot more power than the mach .15. Again since you arn't racing there is no need for a .12 size engine. I would get the ti. turnbuckles before the pipe simply because it will keep you running longer whereas the pipe isn't going to matter much when you are bashing. Look on ebay for parts and for the battery pack. You can get new 5 cell NiMh packs for about $12. GPM is selling some good inexpensive alum. parts on there too.

[Animeboy123]

alright thanks guys,

As of now i am wondering what to get first, I currently only have 78 bucks and i have that ich to put money into my NT right now. I am thinking of getting the RX pack and maybe the Ti turnbuckle set, but i am thinking that i should buy the throttle servo. I would get better brake and snappier throttle right??

[astainback]

I was driving my nt today, and it is still pulling way to far to the side. i took the front off of the truck and reset the horn on the servo, and it is doing it again. Am I missing something here???

[Maltrio]

My mach .15 seems to be getting harder to start. It takes probably 30-35 pulls to start. I probably need to re-tune but should I just buy a starter box instead of dealing with the pull-start?

[offroadcrazy01]

I run at hotrod's it's my home track I ran the shoot-out track saturday got 5th,5th,1th in the b main bumped up to the A main i was running 3 and and broke the track is very tight.all I can say watch out for the pit lane stay in the grove good luck hope i some how bump in to you. my truck in orange and yellow

[ross]

I was driving my nt today, and it is still pulling way to far to the side. i took the front off of the truck and reset the horn on the servo, and it is doing it again. Am I missing something here???

Check:
-The splines in the servo horn arent stripped out
-Trims on your radio
-Camber & Toe in settings
-Steering bellcranks to check that nothing is damaged

If you still have no luck sorting it out it maybe that your servo has had it.

[Got Speed]

Animeboy123- Well the throttle servo will can pull the brakes harder than a stock servo. A stock servo can be set up to lock the brakes if you want but it is a pain to get it adjusted. I've had stock throttle servos strip before too. I would upgrade the parts you seem to break the most. Or save some of that money for a new engine.

astainback- You sure it isn't torque steer(when you give it a lot of throttle and it pulls to the side? If it isn't and you have the servo arm where it supposed to be then just adjust your trims a little.

Maltrio- Does it have enough compression? Is the glow plug good? Is the glow ignitor charged? Is there fuel in the engine? If yes to all of that then adjust the high speed needle a little each way and see if it is easier to start? If so, then obviously it is a tuning problem.

[Karlos Fandango]

Whats a good tyre for use on an outside go-kart track? I might be being roped into a free for all type race, against anything.

[Maltrio]

The engine has good compression, glow plug and ignitor check out, I'm pretty sure fuel is getting into the carb. I guess I'll just have to try messing around with the HSN.

[losiguy1090]

i like proline for onroad st tires. right now for onroad, im running road hawg II's and i love em.

[dgrobe2112]

animeboy.. i think the .18 cvr motor is gonna be way too much motor.. honestly.. you will sit there and do doughnuts.. wont be able to put the power down.. the 645mg servo.. is pretty slow.. i would go with 2 of the 625 servos.. better speed and plenty of torque

[Maltrio]

I was running my xxx-nt today and after acouple runs of WOT it stalled and when I opened the gas tank (to see if I was out of fuel) smoke started pouring out. Any ideas?

[ross]

Maltrio,
Smoke coming out of the tank is quite normal, so dont worry about that. Has for it stalling its probaly a bit lean on the high end.

[dgrobe2112]

well.. ross beat me to the answer.. smoke is normal..and if you still had gas in the tank when it died.. then its lean on the top..

[Maltrio]

Ya, HSN was a little lean. I think I am going to throw in the towel with my pullstart and just use a starter box. What brands and models will fit the XXX-NT? TIA

[dgrobe2112]

there are alot of different brands.. the ofna 1/10 starter box is a good box.. i use a XTM starter box.. cheapy.. works great..

[Got Speed]

Maltrio- I'd set your needles back to the stock settings and try again from there. But like dgrobe2112 said it sounds like it is lean. As for a starter box I would suggest getting one of the boxes with the single 12V motor. The XTM one seems to be the best deal. A dual motor box will be enough to turn your engine over but eventually even with just a .12 or .15 engine you are going to burn up the motors. Here is a thread on it right now: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1492698#post1492698

[Maltrio]

Haha, ya I was just looking at that thread and it seems like rocknbil is fighting a tough battle...

[ross]

Another box that fits in the single motor category is the Thunder Tiger Racing or Associated (they are both the same just re branded), most of you will know I cant speak highly enough of this box, very powerful and reliable.

[losiguy1090]

i have the dynamite starter box. its great. it had zero problems turning over my cx12 for break in.

[purplerides]

i use the ofna #10250 , i use 1 for the xxxnt and have another for my 1/8th scale , there great no problems at all. The original one i had for the gas truck was about 6 years old before i was at a track several hours away and it started pouring rain packed up my stuff so fast i forgot the box...LOL . I realized i forgot it when i got home called a guy that lives near the track it was gone , i'm sure it's still working for the slime that now has it, no big deal i got more then my money's worth out of it.

[cabbynate]

Another box that fits in the single motor category is the Thunder Tiger Racing or Associated (they are both the same just re branded), most of you will know I cant speak highly enough of this box, very powerful and reliable.
And with two stick packs light wight. ;)

[Got Speed]

Maltrio- lol, yeah. Maybe he got it used and it had mod motors?

I use the Ofna 10255 for my NT and the 10250 for my buggy. Like I said the XTM single motor box is practically the same thing but quite a bit cheaper.

[stickboy90]

Has anyone had problems with their xxx-nt gears becoming 'shark finned'? Is my slipper clutch maybe too tight? The mesh is now bad and slipping sounding.

[dkj-M3]

probably just wear, how old is the spur. Or your mesh is too tight, there should be a little play inbetween the spur & bell. Put a peice of paper through it. If the paper tears it's too tight. if not your good.

[Got Speed]

It probably is just wear but check this too.
Are you sure you top shaft is not bent? I somehow bent or bought a top shaft that was already bent and the mesh would get tight and loose with every turn. Check that too.

[Maltrio]

For those of you that are still running the stock mach .15, what glow plug do you use? I know the mccoy-mc59 is the norm but I can't seem to find them anywhere. Thanks

[dkj-M3]

try a novarossi c5 or odonell 77.

[dgrobe2112]

mc59 is a good plug.. c5 is good.. or get a OS A5.. that seems to work pretty good too. i personally dont have a mach .15 but some friends do..

[Maltrio]

Alright, well I got a new plug and the engine works great. It started up on the 2nd pull, it was great. The only problem now is heat. After I was ran 1 tank through it (in 75 degree weather) my temp gun said the engine was at 270. I really need a way to cool this engine down. I have the factory setting on HSN plus about 1 turn ccw. The LSN is at the factory setting plus about 1/2 turn cw. Should I richen both or just the LSN?? TIA

[Maltrio]

Oh ya, and there is quite a bit of gray-ish smoke when it's at idle (dunno if this helps or not). And if you can't tell, I'm quite new to nitro sorry for all the questions that might seem kinda obvious to some of the experienced racers.

[dgrobe2112]

dont trust the temp gun.. go with smoke.. and power... i never trust the temp gun.. unless you got a 250 dollar exergen.. those temp guns can be off.. by 40 or more degrees.. its been my experience..

[Maltrio]

Alright, that makes me feel a little better. There was always blue smoke coming from the exhaust when I accelerated and there was plenty of power, no bogging down through-out the whole range of speeds.

[dgrobe2112]

You gotta have a steady stream of blue smoke.. all the way up to the top end.. if you lose the smoke as you speed up.. need to fatten the top end needle by 1/12 of a turn.. but it wont be blowing smoke like the bottom end needle... just look a little blue smoke.. when you start the motor and after it warms up.. pick up the rear of the truck.. so the rear wheels are off the ground.. gas it.. to full throttle.. lookin at the pipe.. and if you see smoke the whole time.. you are good.. if not.. start to fatten it up.. turn the high end needle.. counter clock wise by 1/12 of a turn.. same as 1 hour on the clock.. like go from 12-11 on a clock.. y ou know what im sayin.. if your needle looks like this.. | fatten it up so that it looks like this \ got me..

[Maltrio]

Alright, I'll try that out. Thanks

[Karlos Fandango]

Sorry to bring this up again but I have a quick diff question. I've set the diff up according to the instructions given by GotSpeed. I have backed the slipper off a little extra aswell so that it slips before the diff. But when you turn one wheel the other wheel goes in the same direction, so is the diff to tight? I thought as you turn one wheel the other was meant to turn in the opposite direction?

[ross]

Karlos,
No thats fine its supposed to turn in the same direction. The only time the other wheel should turn in the opposite direction is when holding the spur gear.

[dgrobe2112]

or if you have the brakes engaged.. then they will turn opposite direction

[Karlos Fandango]

Thanks for that. BTW, does anyone on here own THIS (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5907723932&rd=1) as I just won the auction :D I've had some parts on order over here for three weeks now :eek: Its quicker/cheaper to buy from the US and get it shipped over.

[freeflap]

anyone else have a hard time with the stock xxx-nt flywheel for bumpstarters? it's too small. I've dremeled the frame but would like to replace with a larger wheel.
any ideas?

thx

[losiguy1090]

i have zero problems. is the car lined up right? pull the engine and line it up, its much easier to line it up with the engine pulled.

karlos, holy crap u got an awesome deal :eek: wanna trade cars :p

[Got Speed]

Karlos Fandango- Looks like a pretty good deal. I would not run the MIP CVDs that come with it though if you are racing. They tend to give you less traction

freeflap- I have no problems at all. Are you sure you starter box wheel isn't worn down?

[dkj-M3]

either the starter wheel is worn or it's not lined up right.

[losiguy1090]

this one onroad track that i race on sumtimes is getting seal coat and im racing on it the day after its finished so its gonna be super slick. im thinking of picking up some foams from trc. if i get them, wut durometer should i get? any other reccomendations are appreciated.

[doesgo]

I just got a Triple-XNT yesterday from a friend. I bought it used back in late 2002 and gave it to a friend at that time, he never ran it (well, a few times) so I got it back from him. So it's at least two years old and has no graphite parts and came with JR servos. Any idea how to tell how it started its life? RTR? Kit? Just curious.

I've been racing my RC10GT with some success in the Sportsman class, but this Losi deal dropped into my lap and couldn't pass it up since it's in great shape, completely ready to go with a nearly-new engine, a bunch of spare parts, and a starter box for $175. I'm told on a weekly basis that the Losi is typically easier to drive well on the track than the GT, but it's not quite as durable overall as the GT.

So, it's got Lunsford turnbuckles and an O.S. .15CV-R but otherwise it appears to be stock. Any suggestions on what I should look for (wear issues) or upgrade for durability and performance?

[dgrobe2112]

it has the jr servos that came with it.. if it came with a JR radio.. i would bet that it is a RTR truck.. but thats the best i can think of..

the rtr truck is pretty durable.. you got the lunsford.. so you are good.. other than that.. get a good set of tires and stuff for it.. and your ready to go

[tr918]

Karlos Fandango - That is a pretty sweet deal. If you choose to race with the RPM wide bumber installed you might want to add some weight to the back of the truck. If you don't want the added weight just remove the bumper and use the skid plate. The bumper gives the truck a tendency to nose dive and dig in to the dirt on large jumps. If you are just bashing, add some weight to the back of the truck and you should have no problems.

[losiguy1090]

anyone have suggestions on wut tires i should get?