Team Losi Mini-T v2.0

[astainback]

I don't know alot about electric. I am looking for the simplest setup (install) to the truck. I know how to solder, that isn't a problem, but another appealling thing about the baja is that you are not supposed to have to mod the plate (or anything) to put it in.

Let me know!!

Thanks!!

Congrats on the wins.

adrian

[astainback]

Flyboy,

No way am i doubting you!!!

I got the truck today. I installed the bearings. I am going to get the shocks soon too. I think I am going to hold off on the motor due to funds. (gotta beat it up a little!!)

I will be back on here asking about the motor soon I am sure.

[FLYBOY7]

thanks for the congrats Adrian... i've kept in contact with the guys from R/C Madness out in CT, and it sounds like the 05' mini-t nats will be even better than this years...

the stock mini-t motor actually runs pretty good on 6 cells.... although it seems like half of them burn up on 6, and the other half work just fine... i've seen people burn up their stock motor in 3 packs on 6 cells... but i've seen other people run theirs for months on 6...

T.

[astainback]

BIG PROBLEM WITH MINI T!!!!!!


I ran it a little yesterday to get the little charge of the new battery pack out before the initial charge. Today, I took it out to my little cousins house (they both have mini-ts) to race them in the driveway, and BAM. Problem.

The turnbuckle on both sides (in the front) kept popping off. Also, the other bar (tie rod maybe?? not too good with terminology) kept popping off too. I am sure that one was causing the other. Everytime one of them bumped me, it would come off. I was not doing anything crazy, anything stupid, it was failing me. So I had to drop out of racing them and run it on my own.
I was trying to break it in, and see how fast it would go.
I have to say that the bearings really help. We did drag race them, and I beat them everytime.

Please help Flyboy!! I know that you have the RPM ballcups on yours. I need something reasonable with the least amount of modifications that will replace this crap that is on there.

Any advice/assistance is greatly appreciated.

adrian

[dkj-M3]

may just need to replace the ball cups, they're probably just worn out.

[astainback]

I just got it the day before yesterday!!! It was my first time really driving it!!!

Worn out?? How about CRAPPY.

[dkj-M3]

hmmm, make sure they are not binding. If they are binding & the suspension compresses, it could make them pop-off. I ran mine for about a month with not one pop off. I'm using the adj-titanium links now with the stock cups & still no problems.

[FLYBOY7]

the rod ends popping off is usually pretty common with the stock set-up... it's also very common to bend the stock tie-rods... especially if you crash hard or race at a track with hard boards...

i think SteveK posted a good cheap way of fixing the ball-stud/rod-end/tie rod problem a few pages back on this thread... i can't remember what combo of parts he ended up using though... unfortunately, there is no easy/good way of modding the stock parts so they always stay on and don't bend...

if you're willing to throw some cash at the problem and truely fix it, the Buds BRP tie-rod set comes with everything you need, and definately fixes the problems of the ends popping off and the tie rods bending... the whole set-up runs about $35... although i've seen it on sale lately for $25 at a couple LHS's... it includes 12 new 4-40 ball studs, 6 new heavier tie rods and 12 rod ends.. i have used this set-up with zero problems...

the RPM's i used were the regular 10th scale ends... they created a lot of clearance problems, so i had to cut them down so they'ld fit with no binding.. so i don't really recommend using them... since the nats, i've gone to Lundsford Ti tie-rods, BRP rod ends (from the set listed above), and Losi 4-40 Ti ballstuds... not a cheap set-up, but rock solid, no binding, and very light...

T.

[astainback]

Thanks for the advice. I don't think 25 or 35 is too much. I am going to get them asap. Just out of curiosity, where do you order most of you parts?? I like to try to support my LHS. I got my mini t, tmaxx, probably 1500 in the past two years in hop ups for 2 different tmaxxes, and the xxxnt i have came from there too. (i took the kid there to buy it, i bought it from him when he gave up on it... crazy).

I do know that there are alot of better deals out on the web, and i was thinking about ordering shocks, maybe a new battery pack, and upgrading my turnbuckles.

I know horizon is losi... and i like the stormer (company, not the website.. they need to do something about that website).

what is the best RC web-selling site??

I have never been to ultimate (opening browser now for them... and i don't like tower too much. I got this big a$$ 'ole on the phone one time, and i never looked back.

let me know!!

thanks
adrian

[FLYBOY7]

i'm lucky that one of my LHS's hooks me up with parts... although sometimes, they can't get something i really need, then i have to buy elsewhere... so i check other LHS's, then Tower and Horizon as last resorts...

T.

[illbreakit]

Hi, me and some buds just ordered a bunch of T's and I am wondering about the batteries. Most of the pack's I see are 1100mAh tops, I can get batteries and make upwards of 2300mAh NiMh pack's no problem. I want to know what is the real tradeoff using the higher capacity cell? I have heard that a lower amperage battery will have more voltage and punch usually, but is it really noticeable in a mini? We will be all running Baja motor's too. We mostly want to get good run time, and we are keeping all 4 mini's the same as far as battery, electronics and hopups. That's gona be some exciting racing if everyone is exactly the same :D
OK thx for the help

[dub-c]

Hey FLYBOY, congrats on the mini-t nats!! That looked really fun :) , I don't really race, but if I didn't live on the opposite side of the country (Seattle area) I would have been there to check it out.

[holshotracer]

my diff started to slip since i put in the venom motor so i fixed that for good by glueing the diff together. now when it does a wheelie it spins on the rear bumper until it flips over. that and i melted one pinion so far and i'm only using a losi 5 cell pack. :D

[holshotracer]

well the glue didn't hold so now the truck pullsto one side. i'll have to pull apart the transmission and reglue it.

[FLYBOY7]

dub-c.... thanks bro... i look foward to the event again next year, where ever it might be held...

breakit... there's nothing wrong running 2200 mah AA cells.... you'll get longer run times... the draw backs are they don't have the voltage (under a load) or current output ability of 2/3a packs...

and about the Baja... great motor... very fast... but the pinion headaches are a pain in the rear end... the tuned 300's (or a regular Graupner Speed 300 6v) are nearly as fast, but have a bigger output shaft that is easier to keep a pinion on...

Tim

[surfer]

whats the #1 hop up i should get for my minit ? its all stock but i dont know what i should get

[Strike 4]

whats the #1 hop up i should get for my minit ? its all stock but i dont know what i should get

A 6 cell pack, Losi oil filled shocks, and a new motor... I am so excited my Mini-T should come in the mail tommorow! :D :D :D

[FLYBOY7]

i'm with Strike.... #1 upgrade is a 6 cell battery pack...

T.

[dub-c]

I'd throw in bearings to the list of hopups as well.

[thefasttrack]

the best thing to do is when you buy the mini t make sure you have enough money for a whole load of stuff there really is no first hop up as far as im expeirenced because you need a couple things for the hopups to make sence. catch my drift if not think about this way if you get the 6 cell batterie pack is you need a motor in order for it to acually go. and the but the only true first hopop isthe oil shocks. because it doesnt require any thing else to make it cool

[holshotracer]

oil shocks first then batteries and then bearings.

[Signats]

If you get the batteries before the bearings then it is very likely that the stock motor will get over cooked because of the longer runtime and extra drag from heat soak on the plastic bushings.

[BJoeHandley]

Has anybody used HPIZ162 #100000 gear diff grease in their diffs yet? I just tried some last night and it seems to make a mild viscous lsd out if the otherwise stock diff. I even tried it on a door mat where I backed it up and stomped on it, no clicking (It had been clicking before and thats why I took it apart, but hadn't found broken any teeth). It even seems to not want to walk around when wheelieing as bad as it did before with the old grease in it.

I've had problems with the ball cups popping off after putting on new cups with the Losi Ti turnbuckles. I even installed all new ball joints throughout the truck. If this keeps up I may get some RRP short Ti balls and install.

[holshotracer]

it turns out that my outdrive spun in the gear and striped the gear so i got a new diff.

[losifreak107]

where can i get titanium turnbuckles for my mini-t. i have the speed losi motor and im getting the shocks and bearings soon. i keep bending the stock turnbuckles in racing with xxx-t's what fun

[FLYBOY7]

look on the old mini-t thread for full turnbuckle info... even on the last page of it i think..

but to boil it down...

the steel BRP set works awesome... (yes, i know your looking for ti... LOL)... for a complete fix... my .02 cents is to upgrade to 10th scale parts... Lundsford tierods, regular 10th scale balls studs, and the BRP rod ends work perfect... otherwise, i have not personally tried the mini-t scale ti rods, upgrade ballstuds, and rod ends...

JoeHandley... if you are talking about the RRP ti ballstuds used for 10th scale, i've tried them, the short ones... i do not recommend them... they are not threaded all the way to the top... so even if you use a 4-40 tap before installing the new ballstuds, you'll still break parts when putting them in... the RRP's are definately cheaper than Losi Ti ballstuds... but the Losi's are theaded all the way to the top and work perfect, although you'll need to dremel off some of the extra length to keep the steering from binding...

oh... and about that HPI diff grease.... i've never used it in the mini-t diff, but early on with the mini-t, before oil shocks were out, i used it for a small amount of damping in the mini-t friction shocks... LOL... worked much better than stock... LOL...

Tim

[StormPilot]

Hey guys( and gals) I have had my MiniT for about 6 months now. I love this little bugger. I have a long list of upgrades and have broken many a parts. For people that ask my opinion. I always tell them bearings, then batts and motor at the same time. Then shocks. When you start going faster and stop hitting walls, you replace things as they break.

My hop ups all GPM parts bought from ASIATEES ebay seller.

Alloy front and rear arms
Alloy steering link
Alloy heat sink engine mount
Alloy shocks
Alloy spru gear
Alloy rims
Scorpion motor
BRP rod kit
Losi pinion kit, spur kit,bearings,battery pack,dynamite bat pack and Kan battery pack. I have a super fast and durable mini as long as I dont hit the wall or fence...LOL

Darin Gray

[BJoeHandley]

Finally had the chance to try the truck with that grease in it, WOW big difference. between that and different springs in the front it'll pull the front tires off smooth concrete floors!

Hey Flyboy, thanks for the heads up on the RRP ball studs, I was wondering if I could make that work.

My LHS just got in the Baja Bug body, if I hadn't had to a bunch of work on my real truck (front brakes, rear shocks, and chew out the guy's at Carmax for taking the factory power steering pump off the truck and replacing it with a Napa Reman that may not be in as good of shape as the one it replaced :mad: :mad: ) I'd buy it for my Mini.

[FLYBOY7]

Here's my Mamba 5400 report....

install and set-up-> not perfect by any means... i might have just been in a hurry, but the holes in the motor for the mounting bolts are a different pattern than the stock mini-t motor, requiring some dremel work... also, i could NOT get the freak'n speedo to program... but eventually i reversed the throttle channel, and it began accepting programming (i run a Futaba 3PK, FYI)... the motor is shorter than a Baja... so it might fit very well in the X-ray... and the speedo is very small, barely larger than a Spy...

cogging-> yup... it's got some... but.... i only noticed it coming from a dead stop.... i never noticed it on the track at all... i was running the timing turned all the way up... that might have created some of the cogging... i have seen first hand people who have programmed out the cogging, so it is possible... i'll have to work on mine...

SPEED-> how fast is it compared to bone stock?? i'ld say 3 times faster.. LOL... how fast is it compared to a Baja running on 2 cell lipo?? i'ld say a strong 1/3 faster... in a 70' drag race, i'ld say the Mamba 5400 would be 10 truck lengths in front at the finish line.... the Mamba 5400 running off of a 2 cell United RC li-po is faster than a XXX running 1.17 SMC GP's and a Trinity Monster stock motor in a straight line....

Track Race'n-> i raced last night at an outdoor dirt off road track... but, there weren't enough people to run a mini-t class... so i got put in with the 10th scale stock class... i put in a quick first heat, fast enough for the TQ... people complained i was running a "mod" mini-t in stock 10th scale... so i pulled out of that class for the rest of the night... i also raced the mod class last night with my T4... i run the novak 5800 SS system in it off of Thunder Power 6000 li-po's... i TQ'ed and won that class... but the big news was that my fastest lap with the T4 was 15.5 seconds... my fastest lap with the Mamba equipped Mini-T was 16.3 seconds... .8th of a second slower than Mod 10th scale with the Mini-t racing off road.... much faster than i thought it would be... and the Mambas power delivery was perfect for the track i was on last night... i could put it all to the ground...

that's my report guys....

Tim

[Strike 4]

Hey guys( and gals) I have had my MiniT for about 6 months now. I love this little bugger. I have a long list of upgrades and have broken many a parts. For people that ask my opinion. I always tell them bearings, then batts and motor at the same time. Then shocks. When you start going faster and stop hitting walls, you replace things as they break.

My hop ups all GPM parts bought from ASIATEES ebay seller.

Alloy front and rear arms
Alloy steering link
Alloy heat sink engine mount
Alloy shocks
Alloy spru gear
Alloy rims
Scorpion motor
BRP rod kit
Losi pinion kit, spur kit,bearings,battery pack,dynamite bat pack and Kan battery pack. I have a super fast and durable mini as long as I dont hit the wall or fence...LOL

Darin Gray

Sounds awesome but some of that stuff will slow you down a bit (alloy spur and rims). But I am sure they are pimpin? :D

[XR Mugen]

Hey all:

I have been waiting around for the Losi servo saver for the HS-55 but so far I have been unable to find it. Does anyone have any other servo saver options ?for the Hi-Tec HS-55 ?

Thanks as always

[Strike 4]

Horizon Hobby (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/services/advanceresultsDetail.asp?strProd=MINI%2DT+SERVO+SA VER&strSearchType=ALL&strInCategory=ALL&strInManufacturer=ALL&tag=qsrch) has it in stock. Oh and has anyone tryed out this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGZM2&P=7) ?

[FLYBOY7]

Mugen... is there a reason you don't want to use the stocker??

T.

[astainback]

MINI-T REPORT!!

I got the shocks today. I put Losi 25wt oil in them and the heavy springs on the front and back.
Problem #1, no .050 hex driver. I don't have one. I lost mine. So I can't screw them on. hahaha I am going to have to go to walmart or lowes tomorrow. hahahaha Laugh with me people... I had to laugh it off to keep from throwing my mini-t out the door.
Problem #2, I want some nice hex drivers, and I don't know what to do. They are so freaking expensive. Should i order some RC-style ofna/hudy/losi/mip drivers or go craftsman?? I already went to Lowes and Walmart today, and they did not have the t-handle style that i was looking for. I also own a xxxnt, and I have a hard time with some of the screws on that thing with my little allen keys.
Problem #3, What do i do next?? The truck is fast. I run a stock motor. I have the 6 cell pack. I have bearings. I have shocks. I think I have worked out my ballcup problem for now. Do I go ahead and upgrade the ball cups anyway or get a bigger motor?? What motor?? I don't want to seriously alter the motor or plate, and I definately do not want to have to upgrade the electronics.

any suggestions would be nice. Flyboy, you are the man, what do you think??

thanks
adrian

[XR Mugen]

Hello !

Strike 4 : Thanks for the tip on Horizon. I have ordered the part.

Flyboy 7: Not using the stocker as I have changed all of the electronics over in my Mini T.

astainback : I have most of the MIP / Thorp drivers and while a bit pricey, they last forever and never round out any screw heads.

Thanks !

[Strike 4]

astainback, I have used Integys and they seem to be the best bang for the buck (28$ for 6). They are Ti Nitride with aluminum handles and the set has all the sizes you will need including the .50. I would get a better motor since you upgraded the shocks and bearings, brushless is good but if it is not in your budget I would go with the Beast.

[FLYBOY7]

Mugen... the stocker actually works perfectly (as far as protecting the servo, and not being too weak)... i use them on my Hs-55's... just takes an exacto knife to cut the hex shape on the servo's output shaft... i have seen a lot of people get away from the stock saver, but always wondered why when it actually works perfectly, even with the 55... let us know how your aftermarket saver works when you get it mounted up...

astain.... i'm with strike... the integy set is the best bang for the buck in the r/c world... that's what i'ld go with if your on a budget...

about motors... i used to recommend the Baja's... they are a bit faster than the 300's, and run the stock mounting pattern... but the pinion problems will drive you insane... and they cost quite a bit more than the 300's...

but right now, i feel that the tuned 300's (like a United RC K3, or even a bone stock Graupner Speed 300 6v) are quite a bit faster than stock, and their output shafts are larger, to help keep pinions on... if you don't have access to a dremel to mod the motor plate, a rat tail file will also work just fine... the headaches of modding the motor plate are wayyy less than the headaches of spitting pinions off left and right with the Baja...

or better yet... work some OT and get a Mamba... :)

Tim

[Combatcm]

I am going to get the new GP 1100 2/3A cells from Cheapbatterypacks.com. I am getting it in the HPI micro configuration (4 side by side and two laying down in front of them), with normal size deans connectors and 16awg wire. I don't want to deal with mini connectors. Is everything going to fit and work fine? I am going to order a few things tonight.

[astainback]

I will look into the motor. I am still pissed about the turnbuckles and tie rods. I finished installing the shocks today after I went out and got the right hex drivers. One of them stripped (pivot ball.. i think it is called.. the little brass ball) immediately. I had to get it off with pliers. i messed it up so bad i used one of the ones that i took off of the shocks. it was in better shape.

I need a parts list to update/upgrade all the ball cups, rods and pivot balls. I am at the end of the rope on this too. hahaha

but as far as the shocks go, after i got the ball off and the shims/washers under it to space it out, they worked great. I think they are seeping a little oil. the shock body is shiny and slimy, like it is leaking, but I am not sure. It might be left over oil from when i filled them. i hope they aren't leaking. How would i tell??

thanks for the input on the tools. I am going to check them out now.

adrian

[Strike 4]

Did you bleed the shocks? You do this by filling it and only tightening it a little then pumping it and letting the excess oil spill out. If you still see slimey stuff on the shocks or arms after bleeding it's leaking.

[hooked911]

If your still looking for hex drivers check out the ones from integy, www.integy.com
replaceable tips, alu handles, color coded, 30 bucks.

[FLYBOY7]

combat.... yes, that will fit fine....

astain... looking at the shafts like did works to see if they are leaking... also... after running the truck for a while, it'll become pretty easy... you'll notice a dirt or dust build up on the shocks because the leaking oil is holding the dirt.... especially down in the spring retainers....

i don't have a url for ya on the BRP tie rod set... maybe somebody else here can hook ya up...

[astainback]

I took the shocks off of the truck. The back ones were just oily from me not wiping them down good when I put them on. I took them apart, check the seal (it seemed ok) bled them, cleaned them off... put them on. They seem fine. The front ones were definately leaking. I am sure that I put too much oil in them. I bled them too, cleaned them up, and I will check them again after I run them.

I looked into the integy drivers, and they definately seem to be the way to go. I am going to order a set asap.

thanks guys

[creep]

Here's a link to BRP turnbucles.
http://www.brpracing.com/512.html

[Combatcm]

Just a tip, if you don't have any seals, just use teflon tape. I'm using it in one of my front shocks and it's fine. I wonder why people don't use teflon in the first place?

My dogbones fell out after a 10ft jump and I couldn't find them, so I had extra tamiya axles from my ta02 and put them in. You have to take the little nylon ball off the ends of the dogbone. I also have universals on the way from japan, along with those new GPM V tread tires. Why won't anyone make high sidewall monster tires for the stock rims!

[MrSubaru]

I just bought the factory Mini-T Shocks. There pretty nice. Am having a problem of the fluid leaking out. Is there a trick to this? Am I not doing something right?

Chris

[32000rpms]

540 CONVERSION? Has anyone tried a 540 conversion yet? I just ordered my mini t and i dont even have it yet and im allready maken a 540 conversion. From some pictures i saw it looks like maken a new plate and maybe changen the pinion and spur. Wont be able to tell till i get my hands on it. Any ideas about this? Will work wont work?

[Strike 4]

It will work and it has been done. I saw a guy trying to race a Mini-T with a Comp-X (8,000) on 3 Li-pos last week :D !!!

[32000rpms]

Does anyone have any pictures or info on the best way to do it?

[FLYBOY7]

32000...... one of the guys at the mini-t nats was running a 540... it was mid chassis mounted.... because of the high current draw of a 540, you have to run sub-c cells.... that's a ton of weight, and also a high cg...

a mamba 6800 system on 2 cell li-po would be faster than a mini-t with a 540 off 6 sub-c's....

Chris..... are you leaking oil out of the shaft seal? or the cartridge??

T.

[illbreakit]

Hi, I just stripped my stock servo. Is there anyone who makes a drop in better servo for the T? Can a 3 wire Hitec or something be converted to the T's 4 wire? I will be getting another stock servo for now, but was hoping there was a way to upgrade without changing all the electronics.

[SteveK]

You know, these new mini- and micro-size R/Cs are really sweet to build and run, but they are also really easy to misplace and forget about when you completely re-arrange your workshop....

the rod ends popping off is usually pretty common with the stock set-up... it's also very common to bend the stock tie-rods... especially if you crash hard or race at a track with hard boards...

i think SteveK posted a good cheap way of fixing the ball-stud/rod-end/tie rod problem a few pages back on this thread... i can't remember what combo of parts he ended up using though... unfortunately, there is no easy/good way of modding the stock parts so they always stay on and don't bend...

if you're willing to throw some cash at the problem and truely fix it, the Buds BRP tie-rod set comes with everything you need, and definately fixes the problems of the ends popping off and the tie rods bending... the whole set-up runs about $35... although i've seen it on sale lately for $25 at a couple LHS's... it includes 12 new 4-40 ball studs, 6 new heavier tie rods and 12 rod ends.. i have used this set-up with zero problems...

the RPM's i used were the regular 10th scale ends... they created a lot of clearance problems, so i had to cut them down so they'ld fit with no binding.. so i don't really recommend using them... since the nats, i've gone to Lundsford Ti tie-rods, BRP rod ends (from the set listed above), and Losi 4-40 Ti ballstuds... not a cheap set-up, but rock solid, no binding, and very light...

T.

I had the parts lying around so I converted my Mini-T to Associated balls, turnbuckles, and rod-ends. It is the exact same parts as the BRP set, but cheaper even if you buy everything new (Less than $3 each for the tie-rods, and about $10 for a pack of 12 rod-ends and balls).

The only issues I had were clearing the oil shocks up front, fixed with a few spacers, and the steering links clearing the chassis at full droop, fixed with a visit from Mr Dremel (But a file would work just as well: You only need to trim off a hair). Front camber change is pretty severe throughout the shock cycle, but there is nothing that can be done about that: The only solution is move the outer pivot points out even further, but the wheels are too small and the links won't fit inside.

One thing you'll find is increased wheel travel with the new balls and ends, mostly down-travel, since they aren't nearly as limited in their range of motion as the stock units. I have my brother's truck here for a few weeks (Doing some mods like mine to it), and I'm trying to get some side-by-side shots comparing the suspension of his box-stock truck to my modified one.

[SteveK]

I saw steering servos mentioned here a few times, and in the last few days I saw a few optional servo savers: One is from Losi and is for Hitec servos, and the other is from Airtronics, presumeably for their servos.

I remember seeing something about being able to modify a conventional servo to use 4 wires, basically bypassing the servos internal circuitry, but I can't remember which website it was exactly (Let this be a lesson to always clearly label your bookmarks). This ring a bell for anybody?

Somebody is bound to make a 4-wire servo for this truck eventually.

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

Woohoo!!!! Good news everyone!
Losi just released a servo saver for the hitec hs-55, along with a mount set.
We just got them in this week or so, and they're only $3

[FLYBOY7]

you can convert a Hitec HS-55 to a 4 wire set-up..... complete instuctions can be found on the mini-t forum at one18th dot com....

T.

[Strike 4]

Can Losi's Hitec servo saver work for the HS-81 or only HS-55?

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

The servo horn would probably fit, but the HS-81 is waaay too big to fit in the mini t, which is sad, because the hs-81mg is pretty much the best micro servo I've seen, and I've got one lying around.

[Strike 4]

You can modify your chassis to fit it, the directions are here (http://www.one18th.com/viewarticle.php?action=view&id=22) .

[Freak e-maxx1]

what is the fastest mini-t motor.....

i want the motor to be unscrew the old one and pop in the new one and witch one is better with stock gearing?

MICRO MOTOR, FAST: MINI-T [EPXEP1190]
by EPIC MOTORSPORTS
Category: CPMC-Electric Motors, Other Price: $31.34

MICRO MOTOR,FASTER:MINI-T [EPXEP1191]
by EPIC MOTORSPORTS
Category: CPMC-Electric Motors, Other Price: $34.19

MOTOR W/WIRES & PLUGS: MINI-T [LOSB1089]
by TEAM LOSI, INC.
Category: CPMC-Electric Motors, Other Price: $11.99

Speed Motor w/ Wires and Plugs: Mini-T [LOSB1215]
by TEAM LOSI, INC.
Category: CPMC-Electric Motors, Other Price: $14.99

BAJA MICRO MODIFIED MOTOR W/ PLATE: MINI-T [ORI20911]
by ORION USA
Category: CPMC-Electric Motors, Other Price: $44.10

Big Block Special Edition Motor: Mini-T [ORI20912]
by ORION USA
Category: CPMB-Electric Motors, Modified Price: $37.99

Raider Micro Modified: Mini-T [PEK1406]
by PEAK PERFORMANCE
Category: CPMB-Electric Motors, Modified Price: $44.10

Chubby Special Ed. Motor: Mini-T [PEK1407]
by PEAK PERFORMANCE
Category: CPMB-Electric Motors, Modified Price: $37.99

MICRO MONSTER MOTOR WILD: MINI-T [TRI11992]
by TRINITY
Category: CPMA-Electric Motors, Stock Price: $30.88

[dkj-M3]

from what everyone tells me the Baja is the fastest, direct bolt on motor. I am happy with mine. I know it's faster than the losi motor, the chubby & raider motor, the big block & the Monster.

[Freak e-maxx1]

the big block says its rpms is 30000 witch is as fast as a nitro motor in rpm

[dkj-M3]

baja is faster than the normal big block, I don't know about the special edition one. if its a new one or the same one.

[FLYBOY7]

most guys here know... but if not... the Big Blocks, Graupner 300's, Beasts, K3's ect have a different bolt pattern than stock...

for the fastest bolt in motor... it's an Orion Baja... although, while i haven't tried one myself, i have heard from several people that the Trinity "Faster" Monster motor (the new one) is at least as fast, if not faster, than the Baja.... and the Trinity bolts directly in...

T.

[uaerc]

Here's my T !

[Strike 4]

The Micro Monster stock is about the same speed as the Baja, however, add bearings and it will out gun a Baja for sure! uaerc, nice pic do you have any w/o the body? Here is mine...

[^j!nx^]

anyone using the futabu MC230CR for stand alone?
I fried my ESC/RX a few weeks back and really want to get it running again

[SteveK]

I haven't used it in a Mini-T but I have used an MC230CR in other vehicles and it works great. If I were to change to conventional gear in my truck I would definitely use an MC230.

[^j!nx^]

what gearing should i be using with my miniT

its running....
OEM electronics(desided to replace them with OEM then going stabd alonw for now)
Orion Baja motor
bearings
2cell lithium ion 7.4v pack

60T spur
10T pinion

It seems to top out REALLY fast. Should i use a bigger pinion?

[losifreak107]

if the motor doesnt get to hot why not?

[dkj-M3]

i've tried all possible LOSI GEARS & the stock pinion with the 58 spur seems to run the best with the baja.

[FLYBOY7]

like DKJ said... 14/48 works pretty good with stock size tires on a Baja off 6 ni-mh cells or 2 li-po's.... a 10 tooth won't give you much top speed at all... also.... keeping a plastic pinion on a Baja isn't fun though... you can make metal ones work ok, but it takes some work...

T.

[dkj-M3]

just add some CA to keep the pinion on for a quick fix.

[rckid11]

Just ordered mine for $120! with free shipping! I cant wait till it comes!

[Jason C]

I waited and waited for a kit version of the Mini-T to be released, but I couldn't wait any longer and picked one up. In stock trim, the suspension is pretty spongy and weak, but it really perks up with a set of oil shocks and the right springs. Already 2 days old and I have installed a Monster motor, my own 6-cell battery pack, oil shocks, and a BlueBird micro servo in addition to my own electronics. I never did like trucks, but this one is great fun to drive around and launch off curbs and speed bumps. Later, I might install a Mamba brushless system.

[^j!nx^]

so a 14/58 combo.... looks like a trip to the hobby shop tommarow.

yeah the motor gets VERY VERY hot. I have the heatsink motor plate, and run with the gear cover off for the best cooling of the plate.

http://rs-scooby.com/albums/R-C/miniT_008.sized.jpg

I am now running orange springs on the front with no spacers :)

[SteveK]

Is Losi's white 7.2V NiMH pack worth $30? I am building a combo for my brother on Horizon, and I want to get him the new blue peak charger, not the old black wall charger. The only problem is the black wall charger with the battery is only $5 more than the battery alone.

If the Losi pack is good for the price, I might just have him keep the pack and charger until he can get the peak charger.

[^j!nx^]

get the megatech 2cell 7.4vlithium ion pack for 30$, and charger for 30$ :) i just picked them up and will never go back to NiMH in the miniT or micro

[SteveK]

My LHS has some 2100mah MiMH AAs for $4 each, so I think we are going with those. 6 will fit across the chassis if you snip out the little ribs.

[dkj-M3]

go to walmart they have 2200 4 for 9.99

[FLYBOY7]

i have run those Losi 6 cell packs before.... and i liked them... they aren't fancy dancy cells or anything.... but they work just fine... are they worth $30?? that's up to you... they will be faster than AA's, but slower than li-po..... but they won't have the runtime the AA's will have...

T.

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

Venom has the best value for batteries, no doubt. They're the cheapest, and they run pretty fast. I run them in my m18 and my Mini-T, and they're great.

[Freak e-maxx1]

i have a big block motor and i have 9 11 13 15 sized pinons witch is the best with the stock 60 tooth spur

[FLYBOY7]

gearing for the big block will depend a bit on how big an area you are driving in, and how many cells you are using.... but typically, off a 6 cell pack, the 13 or 15 will work pretty good...

and EverythingAE3... if you think the Venoms are the best value, then you haven't tried the United's yet... the best performance you can buy, at super reasonable prices (both li-po and ni-mh 2/3 a's).....

Tim

[Freak e-maxx1]

my drive way is probly atleast 100+ feet long but i only run on 75 to 50 feet of it and i bash in the rocks and drift in garge (dusty) i do use a 6 cell but i also have a Novak battery thanks

[dkj-M3]

i would run the 58 spur & the stock pinion, I forget the # of teeth it has.

[Strike 4]

Stock is a 14T, right now the only upgrade on my Mini-T is a bottle rocket. I will get pics up later.

[dkj-M3]

heehee :)

[^j!nx^]

where can i get GPM parts other then ebay?

[dkj-M3]

http://www.asiatees.com/

[Freak e-maxx1]

i really dont have time to buy the extrat spur grears

[Freak e-maxx1]

i got the big block from my lhs today and first thing is that it had mirco rs4 clips on it. i got it to work with out damageing the clip so i could return it and order the baja. does the baja come with the stock wires? i also busted my rear shock tower would the alum one do the same or would it not brake(look at pic for were it broke)? i was going to build a custom tower out of 2/8inch steel plate this one should last me till i get the new one



the picture is were the balls go and the whole ball and joint riped out when i crashed

[^j!nx^]

baja come with NO connectors

and the aluminum tower "shouldnt brake" but if you crash hard on your lid you could bend it

[Freak e-maxx1]

what motors do come with the stock type connectors? (im not that good with ele but great with nitro)

[astainback]

I have alot of battery questions too...

i have the 6 cell losi, and it works fine but the charger sucks. I wish I had one that i didnt' have to watch the clock and make sure that i unhook it.

I know nothing about batteries and chargers other than i have 2 nicd packs that i use for starting my tmaxx, and i used to have these same batteries back in the day with my other (toy) rcs.

I remember reading somewhere you can get multiple packs for cheap, and also, is there a charger that charges all batteries??

I don't want to invest in a charger that can't do just about anything. I might get into electrics one day (other than the mini t) and need it to do more.

[astainback]

Sorry, I have another question.

I know I have complained on here before about the stupid rods popping off on the front of the mini t.

I can't take it anymore. I don't want to replace them all, just the front ones. (the top ones.. they keep popping off... i would do the steering ones too if it is cheap)

does someone have a recommendation for this (parts list.)

flyboy, i know you were telling me about the lunsford ones i believe, but I am not sure.
I have the shocks now, and it seems like everytime the truck hits the tiniest thing it comes off. I am getting ready to race it soon, and I don't want to come in last becuase my car kept falling apart.

thanks
adrian

[SteveK]

To do individual rods, you need the following (This is per pair):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2545&P=7 (2 sets)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2541&P=7 (Front camber links)
-or-
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2542&P=7 (Steering links and rear camber links).
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3137&P=7 (Or use the tie-rod tool from Associated's molded tool set).

So basically you just remove the stock rods and balls, and thread in the new 4-40 ball studs. You may need to tap the holes with a 4-40 tap, but I don't think I did: The hole was just large enough to force a 4-40 screw in there to start the threads in the holes). You'll need to use some washers to clear the front shocks if you replace the front camber links, and also do a little trimming on the front of the chassis if you replace the steering links.

If you want to replace all the tie-rods, just use the following parts:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2541&P=7 (1 set)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2542&P=7 (2 sets)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2546&P=7 (1 set)

Even if you don't want to do the rear links, you might as well get the big bag of ball-links, since buying 4 pairs individually costs just as much. ANd you'll have the extra balls and ends if you want to upgrade the rears later.

[Strike 4]

I have alot of battery questions too...

i have the 6 cell losi, and it works fine but the charger sucks. I wish I had one that i didnt' have to watch the clock and make sure that i unhook it.

I know nothing about batteries and chargers other than i have 2 nicd packs that i use for starting my tmaxx, and i used to have these same batteries back in the day with my other (toy) rcs.

I remember reading somewhere you can get multiple packs for cheap, and also, is there a charger that charges all batteries??

I don't want to invest in a charger that can't do just about anything. I might get into electrics one day (other than the mini t) and need it to do more.

If you want something that can do it all I assume that includes li-pos? If so then the Great Planes Triton Charger is probably the best for you it charges 1-24 cells NiHM or NiCD and even does lithium polymer. It has peak too so when it is full it stops charging.

Hope this helps, Strike 4

PS: The rocket worked which suprised me, I thought I would atleast melt the body or something. It can be seen in RC pics.

[astainback]

thanks for the input on the charger. I will look into it.

I am racing this weekend for the first time. I am taking my xxxnt and tmaxx. I hope there are enough people out there to run mini-ts.

[FLYBOY7]

astainback.... Lundsfords aren't cheap.... i took the stock tie rods to my LHS and had them go through their Lundsford box to find one's that were of the same length.... the ti is very strong and light, but hard on the wallet...

and like Strike said....the GP Triton charges freak'n everything.... LOL... i ran charging small li-po's for my mini-t for a while.... i ended up selling it and getting an Astroflight 109 because the Triton could only charge li-po's up to 2.5 amp, which took wayyyy too long when charging my 10th scale 6000 mah li-po's... but if you are only charging regular packs, and li-po's below 2500 mah, life is good with the Triton....

and astainback.... if you are racing for the first time this weekend... i have two rules for you to follow....

1. DON'T CRASH... this might be hard... but keep slowing down till you don't crash anymore (yes, i did say go slower to really end up faster).... all the time you lose being marshalled WILL put you at the back of the pack... this is the most important rule of r/c racing (if you want to win anyways) hands down... burn this into your brain....

2. RIDE THE PIPES.... ie- at the apex of the corners, be very close to the inside wall.... if you ride all the apex's tight, you'll actually be on a shorter race track than the guys blowing it wide every corner... and the shorter your race track, the faster you will get around it...

oh and... best of luck, and remember it's all about having fun.. let us know how you do...

btw... i'll be racing the Kyosho race this weekend in st louis (10th scale gas truck only)... if i do any good i'll post and let ya guys know.... LOL... i'm really an electric guy... but i'll do my best to try and keep on the same lap as Drake, Tebo, ect in gas truck this weekend...

Tim

[Freak e-maxx1]

are the shock towers made of plastic or graphite is there any may i coulde make them stronger? like boiling them?

[dkj-M3]

plastic, I don't think boiling them will help, they are already real soft & flex a lot.

What are you guys hitting, my 2yr old drives mine & has yet to break anything?

[Freak e-maxx1]

concert(sp)

[bassist 281]

i need help my mini-t just stopped working. i was just driving it and it stopped. it still steers but doesn't move when i hit the gas

[Strike 4]

i need help my mini-t just stopped working. i was just driving it and it stopped. it still steers but doesn't move when i hit the gas

Motor fried. You can also check your connection between your motor and ESC maybe the wire popped apart?

[bassist 281]

thanks for the help strike...is the hi-speed motor that losi makes worth the money?

[Strike 4]

They are OK, however, I would go for a Orion Baja, Trinity Monster, Beast, or Stinger.

[dkj-M3]

ya get the baja or the beast

[astainback]

Motor fried... throw it away and get a new mini-t.









hahahaha

[Strike 4]

Motor fried... throw it away and get a new mini-t.










hahahaha

So how long have you been in radio shack oops I mean "RC" lol...

[Freak e-maxx1]

what size pinon is the stock one?

[Freak e-maxx1]

i think its 14 but i f i go up one tooth 15 would it affect any thing

[HALERAZOR]

I need a fast motor for my mini t. What is a good one? someone help me!

[dkj-M3]

baja or beast

[^j!nx^]

man i just put in a 58t gear, with the lightweight top shaft
combine with a 15t pinion, 7.2v lithium pack and a baja motor this thing flies.

[^j!nx^]

ok so I need a ball diff now. wich do you guys think is the best brand? I seen
MIP
3racing
GPM
all around the same price range

[RCNitroDude999]

Has anyone here ever tried the nitro conversion in their mini-t?

[MTkid7]

dont do that to the T. Then y did u get it in the first place. Its a cool ELECTRIC mini rc car.

[dkj-M3]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3180156908&category=44028&sspagename=rvi:1:3

[RCNitroDude999]

I need to buy a kit for the parts to use in another project, but it seems they are no longer for sale, hopefully i can find someone who wants to sell theirs......

[NOHC]

The Mini T's an awesome little truck. My wife, who's absolutely disinterested in the rest of my RC stuff practically begged to get one when they came out. Her words were "It's so cute"

I wonder if Associated has any plans to make a Mini T4.

[SteveK]

That's a good question. Each brand new R/C is a huge undertaking: You need to design it, test it, refine it, then produce brand new tooling and molds to create the parts which is VERY expensive. Associated is a big company, but they aren't as big as Horizon Hobby, which nows owns Losi. IMO, if Losi wasn't bought out by Horizon, they wouldn't have made the Mini-T. It is a big seller, but it's a big risk getting into it: Even if it's a success it might take more than you afford to do it the right way.

Losi actually wouldn't have made the GTX gas truck way back in the mid 90's if it weren't for Horizon: Horizon came to them and actually commissioned Losi to build a gas truck for them to sell in their catalogues. They agreed to purchase a gauranteed number of trucks up front in order to convince Losi to take on the project. He didn't get too specific, but the owner of my LHS, an old-timer who knows a ton of people in the industry, said that the company is basically just a glorified hobby for Gil Jr, and the family makes their money elsewhere (I think one of their products were bearings/wheels or something else for inline skates way back when). If you thought about it, no strictly R/C company would have the money to put their name on an Indycar, as Losi did back in the 90s, especially not one that only offered 4 or 5 models at the time (2WD buggies and trucks: I don't even think the Street Weapon was out yet).

[NOHC]

Good point. I only brought up the question b/c I'm a "dyed in the wool" AE guy. :D

I didn't know that about Horizon & the GTX. Hmm. You learn something new every day.

[SteveK]

Yeah, Losi was very resistant to making a nitro racing truck, as they have been to making a nitro touring car. Horizon is one of the two main distributors to hobby shops and other mail-order companies, holding exclusive selling rights of, or outright owning, several companies (Like GM Racing, JR, Losi, Dynamite, etc), along with Tower Hobbies. Horizon wanted something they knew would sell in their catalogues and in hobby shops, that they could be the sole source of, so they contacted Losi about making a truck for them to distribute. Horizon agreed to order a certain number up front, which Gil Jr said was the only way they could really take on the project.

As with the Mini-T, I'm pretty sure you wouldn't have seen the LST without Horizon being the owners either. I knew a nitro monster would be coming, and I'm surprised they haven't made a nitro touring car yet.

Oddly enough, Losi was/is hesitant to make nitro racing trucks and TCs, yet they've made two 4WD buggies, which just CAN'T be selling nearly as well as their other cars and trucks.

[NOHC]

I knew a nitro monster would be coming

Yeah, I think a lot of that was "look how many T-Maxx's are flying off store shelves...we should do that"

As for the 4WD's, look at the competition Losi had when the original XX4 was released. There wasn't much out there, unless you wanted a Cat, some kind of Yokomo, or whatever car Kyosho was producing that week. Touring cars were just beginning to take off & the possibility of a conversion, a'la, Street Weapon was probably a big factor in it as well.

[SteveK]

There wasn't much competition for the XX4 because 4WD was almost litterally dead in the US. Losi released the 4WD because they wanted to make a 4WD, not because they saw a booming market they could make a dent in. They probably justified it by eventually converting it to a TC, but really, it was just something they wanted to do, so the work was all worth it to them. Like I said, the family wasn't beholden to the R/C company succeeding to make money, which gave them the freedom to do whatever they wanted with it.

Back to the Mini-T: Anybody have any dimensions or pictures of the Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs or Losi Smasher tires next to the stock ones?

[RCfun12]

What is a good site were i can uy lithium pack or just the atteries seperet?

[RCfun12]

sorry about that. let me try again
What's a good site were I can buy a lithium battery park or just the batteries seperet.

[RCfun12]

do you just use a Lipo battery pack designed for airplans? Do u just convert the conector? sorry for all the questions i never tried using these types of batteries.

[Strike 4]

Here (http://www.b-p-p.com/mini-tpage.htm) is were I get my li-pos, I am not sure if you can use plane li-pos unless they are for small applications (speed 300's).

[FLYBOY7]

i use the Unitedrc.com li-po packs in my Mini-T, the lighter 830 mah packs for racing, and the 1050 for practice..... they also sell the latest ni-mh 2/3 A cells as well.... and remember-> make sure you use a li-po specific charger like the GP Tritan or Astroflight 109 or you Will have a fire....

Tim

[dkj-M3]

BOOM.
Great Planes Triton charger works.

[Freak e-maxx1]

over heating probs.....
i have a big block motor and i have tryed to gear were it dont over i have tryed 58/14 58/15 60/15 what other should i try?????

[SteveK]

Try the biggest spur gear and smallest pinion gear you can fit, see if that will help. If not, either something is binding or the batteries just last too long for the motor to handle it. With the really high-capacity batteries, I can see them powering the motor so long it overheats, even if geared properly.

You could try cutting the little cooling flap over the motor, like a sunroof, and bending up the Lexan to direct air down onto the motor.

[Freak e-maxx1]

i drive it maybe 2 to 3 min and it shuts off
what is the best size pinon and spur to gear the most quickness and top speed out of the stock motor?

[FLYBOY7]

Freak..... it might not be your gearing or motor...... make sure you have no binding in the drivetrain, and that you have proper mesh between your pinion and spur... (sorry if you know all that already, maybe it'll help someone else with the same problem)....

otherwise..... if you are driving in a very tight area, like your living room, 11/60 is a good bet.... if you are out driving on the street or on a track, 58/15 is pretty normal gearing for a big block/speed 300....

[RCfun12]

Is this a good combo? Kokam 1500HC 3s 11.1v & Apache S2500 Combo. Or is the charger junk? I'm new with lipo batteries plz help.

[SteveK]

I just got a couple Team Orion Supercharge Micro packs, 7.2V NiMH, etc. I used the Team Losi Mini-T peak charger, and the pack is quite warm at the end of the charge cycle: I though NiMH cells weren't supposed to get too hot? The pack is almost as warm/hot as I have felt my NiCads. Is this normal? It's my first experience with NiMH cells. (I know, I know, it's only been like 4 years)

[Freak e-maxx1]

whats the bet gearing to drive in a big area with the stock 280 motor?

[RAYMAN1OO7]

i got myself a mini-t tonight at the LHS!! its brand new and i payed $200 for it, BUT its got quite a few option parts for it, i think i got a GREAT deal, im always there so the guy knows me, he just likes hopping them up then moving on, so i got the benefit!!
heres the hop-ups and stuff i got with it, and some pics:

BRAND NEW never run Mini-T with remote
losi mini-peak charger
venom battery pack, i dont know if its 6V or the one above that
Losi chevron tires front and back mounted on losi chrome wheels never run
stock tires never run
losi aluminum shocks and 2 new packages of springs, stock shocks
aluminum front bumper/skid, front and rear arms, rear motor plate,
ball bearing kit
all the stock parts

[RAYMAN1OO7]

heres 1of4

[RAYMAN1OO7]

2of4

[RAYMAN1OO7]

3of4

[Freak e-maxx1]

you got a great deal

[RAYMAN1OO7]

4of4

[Freak e-maxx1]

lucky ass

[FLYBOY7]

stevek.... do you have a temp gun?? just wondering how hot your packs were off the charger.... and no, in the "perfect" world, ni-mh's shouldn't come off the charger very hot (like less than 100 degrees F)...

RCFun.... i've only used the Triton and Astro 109.... the Kok 1500's will work decent as long as they are the "high current" versions (which it sounds like you have)... the United RC Apogee cells are the hot set-up for mini-t use though, they have higher output voltage per cell and higher current output as well...

[Strike 4]

Ray, all you need now is a better motor :D.

[RCfun12]

if i buy the litium batteries do i need to upgrade all my electronics

[Strike 4]

if i buy the litium batteries do i need to upgrade all my electronics

It may not be a good idea to run on stock esc since there is no voltage cut off.

[RAYMAN1OO7]

Ray, all you need now is a better motor :D.
yea i know :) is it just me, or do you guys have slop in your front steering? are there bearings avaliable for the bellcranks?
and with the stock motor, are yours pretty loud for an electric car? compared to my tc3, m18 and t3, it seems kinda loud and crackly/clicking type sound, i guess its just the motor.

[dkj-M3]

mine is not loud at all & for off-road a little slop doesn't hurt. But my friend uses the aluminum steering hardware to reduce the slop.

[RAYMAN1OO7]

i think the loudness is just the dogbones clanking around, all my other cars have pretty new cvd's in them.

[nuespeed]

http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=391&stc=1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v310/worldrallyxtreme/PICT0350Small.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v310/worldrallyxtreme/PICT0346Small.jpg

[nuespeed]

Whoops forgot to add the Text.. Well this my recently purchased mini-T.. It'll be stock for a long time due to RC funding.. I'm installing an EZ start motor soon on it..

[RAYMAN1OO7]

looks like mine, i love the feeling of buying a new rc car, now i gotta find a place to store all of them, im running out of room, especially a way to keep them out of the way of my devil cat lol :)

[welshy40]

stevek - Nimh batts should come off the charger hand warm, maybe slightly cooler otherwise you can damge them. Check the amount of charge you are putting through the cells. Or maybe your charger isnt for NIMH cells, but nicads. If thats the case get a new charger otherwise your batteries may explode during charge.

Maybe better still is find out whats recommended by losi, or anyone else selling the packs ready made..

[dkj-M3]

nimh should peak out at about 100* least mine do.

[Jason C]

Here's a photo of my Mini-T. I really hope Losi will release a moulded graphite chassis soon.

[SteveK]

The charger is the Losi Mini-T peak charger, and it is made for NiMH packs. It charges at 1.2 amps until the pack peaks, and then it switches to 'trickle', but no amp rating if given.

It's tough to gauge how hot it is without a temp gun or anything, but it's certainly less hot than our hottest tap water, and that is usually a little over 100 degrees F (If I remember some energy conservation pamphlet in HS correctly).

[FLYBOY7]

btw... you guys hearing a mini-t and notice how loud they are, it's the plastic pinion on plastic spur.... once you go over to a metal pinion, it's just as quiet as a normal 10th scale...

the slop in the steering rack can be temporarily cured... but i've yet to see or use a rack that permanantly cures it.... i've tried 3 types of alum racks, all of which are slop free for a while, but require tightening periodically to stay that way...

Tim

oh and... you don't need any different motors or speedo's to go li-po... but li-po's WILL blow up if you take them too low on voltage... hence the voltage cut-off on some BL speedo's like the Castle Creations... otherwise... if you use a normal speedo, like a Spy, ect, you will need to time how long you drive to make sure you don't go too low on the voltage....

[Jason C]

Yeah, I have a general time frame of how long to run my car before I pull it off and recharge the pack. But when Li-polys dump, they drop off in voltage really fast making it very noticeable when your pack is dead.

[uaerc]

Does the stock MINI T come with ball bearings installed.. or do we have to do an upgrade on them. if yes does anyone know the size of the ball bearings on them.

3 dimensional sizes...eg. * x * x *.

my motor is a stock. right now .. available at LHS is MONSTER motor & Trinity wild something, which is better ?? . I saw a MAMBA 6000 combo with ESC in RC mag... for 140$ anyone tried this what all extras do i need with this upgrade. I am really into speed...

I already have a 1100 NIMH Bat pack from Trinity.
St . Servo was replaced as it broke very easily. They are really bad quality IMO....ppl have replaced it with HS 81mg but with a lot of mods...any servo that would just fit in ?

anyone ??

regards
Aziz

[Jason C]

Does the stock MINI T come with ball bearings installed.. or do we have to do an upgrade on them. if yes does anyone know the size of the ball bearings on them.

3 dimensional sizes...eg. * x * x *.

my motor is a stock. right now .. available at LHS is MONSTER motor & Trinity wild something, which is better ?? . I saw a MAMBA 6000 combo with ESC in RC mag... for 140$ anyone tried this what all extras do i need with this upgrade. I am really into speed...

I already have a 1100 NIMH Bat pack from Trinity.
St . Servo was replaced as it broke very easily. They are really bad quality IMO....ppl have replaced it with HS 81mg but with a lot of mods...any servo that would just fit in ?

anyone ??

regards
Aziz


No, the Mini-T does not include bearings for the hubs, but it does for the transmission. Bearings for the hubs can be bought in a special set of 8 bearings (2 in each corner).

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGY4&P=ML

Of the 3 motors you listed, the Mamba 6000 is the fastest followed by the Trinity Micro Monster Wild and the Micro Monster. $140 is a lot of cash to spend on a little car, but if you realy have to have speed, then no other motor will compare to the Mamba. The Mamba 8000kV motor combo is even faster than the 6000kV.

For the Mambas, you will need your aftermarket battery pack. The latest in batteries are the Lithium Polymer cells which are very small and lightweight, yet put out more than 3 times the voltage of a regular Ni-MH cell.
Some popular servos are the BlueBird 380MG, HS-55, HS-56HB, HS-81MG and other micro servos that will fit. Losi makes a servo saver that fits the HS-55 and possibly the HS-56HB. Both servos are slightly larger than stock and will require a little trimming of the chassis. The HS-81 is significantly larger and does require more cutting.

As far as extras go, it would be wise to strengthen your car by replacing some stock parts with hop-ups to take the extra speed. Oil shocks, aluminum hubs, aluminum or titanium bumper, titanium hinge pins, titanium turnbuckles, ball diff, CVDs, etc.

Here's a video of a brushless powered Micro on a golf course:

http://www.b-p-p.com/videos/mini-t_brushless.wmv

[dkj-M3]

the normal nihm batts are fast enough with the mamba. Airtronics is working on a servo replacement that fits the 4wire stock esc.

I use an Airtronics servo that has a mini-t sevo horn adapter & its faster than the hitec

[welshy40]

Does any one know if there is a brushless motor system available for the mini T??

[dkj-M3]

the mamba

[Jason C]

the normal nihm batts are fast enough with the mamba. Airtronics is working on a servo replacement that fits the 4wire stock esc.

I use an Airtronics servo that has a mini-t sevo horn adapter & its faster than the hitec


How do you like the Airtronics servo? I was planning on later going with the Hitec HS-56. The LHS owner seems to not like Airtronics very much. He claims their servos lack centering ability.

[dkj-M3]

Jason C, I sent you a private message.

[uaerc]

""As far as extras go, it would be wise to strengthen your car by replacing some stock parts with hop-ups to take the extra speed. Oil shocks, aluminum hubs, aluminum or titanium bumper, titanium hinge pins, titanium turnbuckles, ball diff, CVDs, etc. " qoute

HI

Have you seen GPMRACING.COM I guess they have all the parts you mentioned........

IF the GPM's are good I will order all.........

[Jason C]

""As far as extras go, it would be wise to strengthen your car by replacing some stock parts with hop-ups to take the extra speed. Oil shocks, aluminum hubs, aluminum or titanium bumper, titanium hinge pins, titanium turnbuckles, ball diff, CVDs, etc. " qoute

HI

Have you seen GPMRACING.COM I guess they have all the parts you mentioned........

IF the GPM's are good I will order all.........

Yes, I have seen some of the GPM parts and I think some of them are very good. However, I have heard of the plastic ball cups on their shocks being very prone to breaking, and there is some issue with the rear hubs not fitting with some particular driveshafts. 3Racing also hase some very nice alloy parts. You can find GPM and 3Racing parts at http://shop.one18th.com/ . I bought most of my Mini-T parts from that site and the service is very good. There is also a forum there where you can find out more about the parts you are interested in.

[dkj-M3]

I would keep mine stock. But if you have problems with things breaking, just wait to see what breaks a lot then upgrade. all that aluminium will mess up the handling. i thought about getting the alu front tower but the stock parts are so cheap, i just picked up a few of them.

I'm running the a Airtronics 94091Z. .10 sec. & 23 oz. @ 6.0 volts.

[Knightsquad]

Hey guys! I'm new out here and need some help if you have a min.
Me and my two kids 9 and 11 yo. just decided we are going to take down their halfpipe and build a dirt R/C track in the back yard. I've talked to some of the guys at te Track Building Forum also.
I was thinking of 1/10 scale and seen some stuff about 1/18 and though how much more track I can get into the yard if I went this route instead.
When you guys talk about mini's are talking 1/18?
From reading through this forum you guys seem to be having a blast with them! With all the tweaking and changing out of parts you guys seem to be doing real good!
My questions are.
Do you think the mini's would be a good choice for me and the kids on a back-yard track? Are they fast enough?
What company and what particular car/buggy would you recommend for a first car? How much are they? Any links to some sites to purchase from?
I'm definitley a "tweaker" but don't know enough about them yet so I'm looking for a decent "stock" setup we can have a ball with while we learn about all these mods that can be done.
AND how wide of a track can be built using mini's?

Sorry for such a long post guys but, well you know how it was in the beginning! LOL
Heres the halfpipe we are trying to get rid of, I'd hate to have to take it down myself. So I'm giving it away! LOL
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-8/361947/halfpipeweb.jpg
Thanks guys
Pete

[Jason C]

I think the Mini-T would be an excellent little car for your backyard. Even in stock trim, the Mini-T is a very capable truck that can do just about everything its 1/10 brother can do. I have my Mini-T equipped with lithium-polymer batteries and a Beast-tuned Raptor motor. This combination sends my Mini-T cruising down the street at almost 30 MPH and I can easily launch the car 4+ feet into the air.

The Mini-T runs about $130-$150 depending on where you look. One good thing about the car is that it arrives pre-built and includes all necessary electronics. Just install 4 alkaline AAs into the car, 8 into the radio and you're off. Some places that sell the Mini-T are www.stormerhobbies.com and www.horizonhobby.com I'm sure your local hobby shop will stock them if there is one near by. I can guarantee you that you won't be leaving your Mini-Ts stock for very long after getting them :D There are loads of aftermarket upgrade parts to make the truck faster, stronger, look better, handle better, etc.

I'm not exactly certain what an optimal width would be for a Mini-T, but lanes on the order of 5-6ft. wide could easily accomodate you and your two kids' cars running at the same time. Looking at your photo, you have plenty of space for a decent sized track. One site that has more information on the Mini-T and other off-road mini cars is www.one18th.com There is even track building information there. I hope this helps you some.

[Knightsquad]

Jason,

Hey buddy thanks for the excellent post. Now my head is spinning even more!
Ha Ha LOL
I thought I was all set and ready to go with the 1/10 scale and now this excellent post from you about the 1/18th and I'm back to square one! LOL

I'm a little confused about the m-18, the mini-t and I think there was one more somewhere, I forgot.
Are the m-18 strictly street cars? They look like it. What's the difference in these cars?

Maybe I'll go do some more surfing and reading to see if I can figure it al out!
Any other info would be SUPER!
Thanks again Jason!

Pete

[welshy40]

dkj-M3 - the mamba motor is brushless, like the novak system?, if so how much does it cost (obviously with an esc as well), and where from (web sites required as im from the UK).

Also what about tyres. I am tempted to try 1/10th tyres, but cut and shut, has any one done this yet??

Knightsquad - the m-18 is a street touring car, however I have seen one that has been modified to a truck, but at a price.

Its cheaper to get the Losi Mini-T truck and just add some proper alloy oil shocks later on for an upgrade. But you can do much more as the 1/10th scale has been miniturised so is totally rebuildable and changeable, so you can build and modify to your own style of driving (including tires).

Ive raced 1/10th seriously for 16 years and am now getting tired of racing all the time, so am calling it a day and will get a mini-t just for fun.

[dkj-M3]

Yes, it's brushless. Go here:
http://www.castlerc.com/products/cars/mamba-25.html
You should be able to order it from your hobby shop. If not go here:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=CCM252054
OK, just read that your in the UK
The stock tapers & stock step-pin tires work fine, if your racing on dirt.

[Jason C]

Jason,

Hey buddy thanks for the excellent post. Now my head is spinning even more!
Ha Ha LOL
I thought I was all set and ready to go with the 1/10 scale and now this excellent post from you about the 1/18th and I'm back to square one! LOL

I'm a little confused about the m-18, the mini-t and I think there was one more somewhere, I forgot.
Are the m-18 strictly street cars? They look like it. What's the difference in these cars?

Maybe I'll go do some more surfing and reading to see if I can figure it al out!
Any other info would be SUPER!
Thanks again Jason!

Pete

Glad to be of assistance! A 1/10 truck or buggy would probably work in your yard, but it would be tight and hard to make a track big enough to allow you and your kids to run at the same time. A 1/18 truck is easier on the wallet (though it depends on what you do to it) and is much more space-friendly.

The other mini car you forgot is probably the Micro RS4 - kind of the one that started it all for 1/18 cars as we know it now. (BRP also derserves much credit for their 1/18 cars long before the Micro RS4 was around) Both Micro RS4 and M18 are strictly on-road cars by design, but as Welshy40 said, people have modified the M18 to go off-road. There is a project off-road M18 on the one18th.com forums called the MT18. The creator will later release a parts listing and more info on how he built it so everyone else can build one too. However, it will be expensive.

The Micro RS4 and M18 differ from the Mini-T by having minimalist suspensions with a few millimeters of travel compared to the Mini-T's 2+ cm of travel. They are also narrower and have a more realistic appearance than the Mini-T. Larger tires, wider stance, and different drivetrains are what make the off-road cars different from their on-road cousins. The difference between the M18 and the Micro RS4 is chassis design, drivetrain, and suspension. The M18 is a newer on-road car and is designed as a more serious racer kit. It has a shaft-driven 4WD drivetrain, a wide pan style chassis, and fully independent suspension. The Micro RS4 is also 4WD, but uses a drive belt to link the front and rear differentials, has a double deck chassis, and has a solid rear axle. Out of the box, most drivers feel the M18 is a more race worthy car. The Micro RS4 can be had in a kit or RTR (ready-to-run) like the Mini-T where all you need are 12 AA batteries, but the M18 only comes as a kit. You will need to purchase your own support equipment and other parts to make it run.

There are other off-road and on-road cars smaller than 1/10 scale, but these three seem to be the most popular. When choosing a car, it is wise to buy one that is popular since parts will be carried by most hobby shops making repairs easier and faster.

[takumi^4]

Hi guys, Im currently using energizer rechargable cells. they're of the NIMH kind at 2100 mAH. How long should the mini t be able to run on these provided they're fully charge because all im getting out of them is 15 minutes barely. Thanks for any info

[dkj-M3]

i use the same ones. with 6 cells Mine runs for about an 1 hour

[takumi^4]

Any ideas on why i can only get abt 15 mins out of mine? i switched it onto a friends and his mini t turned in abt 40 minutes. both cars are stock

[dkj-M3]

only thing I can think of is the charger false peaking.

[takumi^4]

ok thanks

[SteveK]

If you charged the cells the same way for both trucks, then your truck likely has a binding problem someplace. Check that the front wheel nuts are not too tight, and that the gear mesh isn't too tight either.

[Freak e-maxx1]

motor could be old

[Freak e-maxx1]

any one know uf you fit a onroad 1/10 tire on teh mini-t size rim?

[dkj-M3]

they make on-road & foam tires for the mini.

[SteveK]

Losi makes some on-road radials. I have some, and they grip pretty well on dusty pavement.

[Freak e-maxx1]

Losi makes some on-road radials. I have some, and they grip pretty well on dusty pavement.
i want the low profile look

[teampeter]

Freak e-maxx1... Trinity says you can stretch the Team Losi tires on their wheels for a low profile look.

For those who have upgraded their electronics, what is an affordable(under $70) ESC.

[dkj-M3]

novak spy. but I would get the mamba system.

[Jason C]

I've been thinking of the Mambas since my LHS now has some Competition X sets in stock. I have heard of the brushless systems having issues of cogging and whatnot, so I wonder if I ought to sit and wait for a little to let Castle Creations work out the bugs first. Trinity also has their 3 new Termination motors and I have my eyes on the Monster Termination. Guess I'll just wait till my current motor dies.

[dkj-M3]

I've ran 2 different mini's with mamba systems with no problems. I will have one soon.

[GT Freak]

just got me a mini-t today, traded my t4 for it! :D now if i could just find enough time to play with it.... :( my t is bone stock, but want to know where i can find a vw body for it at :confused:

[moneyt]

stormer hobbies has one. you need taller body posts too.

[moneyt]

oops, i was trying to reply to the person searching for the baja body

[GT Freak]

found a pop can tonight, started knocking it around with my t... new found game: pop can soccer!! :D

[microrcdude]

wow! sounds fun! make some goals out of a card board box.

[RAYMAN1OO7]

why would you trade your t4 for a stock mini-t? was your t4 just a rolling chassis? i really want a t4 and b4 rtr, i love those, rtr's are getting to be really nice, espcially the team associated ones(i love team associated, im biased towards them, but love losi too!) but oh well, as long as your happy, mini-t's rock!

pop-can soccer sounds fun, chasing the cat is fun too, until she chews the antenna, which hasnt happened yet on my mini-t, knock on wood, shes probably doing it as i type lol

[BJoeHandley]

You guys check out www.rpmrcproducts.com lately? Just saw their new Mini-T rims today!

[welshy40]

Guys look what associated are going to sell. Only in RTR form but wahey!!

[welshy40]

And another.

[welshy40]

And another...

[welshy40]

And another...

[welshy40]

And another....

[GT Freak]

:eek:How DARE u put that...that...gggrrr send him to the dungeon-----------> thou shalt not post pics from the enemys camp! :mad:

[welshy40]

Its a 4wd, not a 2wd so shouldnt matter to Losi. Only Duratrax, Associated and HPI are making 4wd trucks and Losi are sticking to 2wd. But its a better product and will be faster. And yes Cliff Lett isnt my favourite of racer (hes not a very nice chap, especially at the UK worlds when he relly annoyed me), and I would send him to the dungeon.

[Jason C]

The RC18T chassis looks like a stretched out M18 with longer arms and big shocks. A number of folks converted their M18 into an off-road truck and posted info on it in other forums. I think I'd sooner build my own off-road M18 than buy the RC18T. Too bad it is going to be released in RTR form only. Perhaps later a Team kit will surface.

I'm still sticking with the Mini-T. Simple, yet effective 2WD drivetrain, lightweight chassis, loads of hop-ups, and handles very well on and off road.

[microrcdude]

ill get the associated.

[welshy40]

Associated - as Losi is the only manufacturer doing 2wd.

The 4wd will be the class to be in as it will be more competitive.

But the design is a smaller version of the TC3/4 so they didnt copy the Xray M18 (not HPI as I stated earlier).

And unlike the Losi which wasnt designed by Losi team, its been designed and developed by the Associated Team just like their worlds winning vehicles.

[Freak e-maxx1]

new stuff i saw on tower
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHUC3&P=7

[early622]

woot...i got a 6 cell today...trippled my speed tourque and acceleration...best 30 bucks i spent on my mini t...now im gonna get the mamba 25 and a metal servo

[early622]

oh and taht AE crap wont be faster than my mamba'd minit

[dkj-M3]

stop wasting money on those packs. go to walmart or wherever & pick up some AA 2300 4 for 9.99. You can have 2 6-cell packs for $30 & they will be faster & last longer.

That's if you can solder.

[welshy40]

early622 said "oh and taht AE crap wont be faster than my mamba'd minit"

Sorry to say it but with the same motor in the associated will be much quicker than the Mini T.

4wds are much faster than 2wd - its fact not fiction.

At the 1/10th worlds the 4wds were a lap or two faster than 2wd.

In 2wd (Losi are the only one in 2wd 1/18th scale) Losi are safe and sound as no one else wants to do 2wd.

However Duratrax, Xray, Tamiya and Associated are all doing 4wd so dont worry about it, as the 2wd crown is safe in the Losi camp in 1/18th scale.

[dkj-M3]

baa, Who designed the xxx buggy or the xx? That is what the mini-t was designed after & they are not faster, just have better traction b/c of the 4wd. I've heard enough. These are not 10th scales so go start your on thread this is the Team Losi Mini-T v2.0 thread. Too bad AE is afraid to make a 10th scale 4wd

[fuzzypumpkins]

How do i install my mamba onto my mini-t?

[welshy40]

dkj-M3 - you make me laugh - How many worlds have Losi won, and how many has Associated?? Well associated have won 16 and Losi im afraid are not that good. But the 4wd I admit is a good design, but AE doesnt want to make a 4wd as not many people race it. But 4wd is quicker - I have 16 years at top level competition, and in a straight line up against a 2wd the 4wd is quicker - I have proven this already. But I will leave this Losi rubbish and not waste my time with rubbish when the associated is a far superior product

[dkj-M3]

k, then leave it & stop wasting time, I like to make people laugh. you can start your own thread now. cya

[dkj-M3]

welshy40 said:
"but AE doesnt want to make a 4wd as not many people race it"

not many people race mini's. but look what what AE is about to release.

I'm just playing man, I could care less, I'll probably end up with one anyway. laterz

[SteveK]

To be fair, the market for a sub-$200 1/18th scale R/C truck is currently much bigger than the market for a $300 4WD buggy. I do find it curious that Associated would in effect 'splinter' the burgeoning micro off-road segment, going with a 4WD truck rather than 2WD, but they must realize the racing market isn't significant enough to worry about (Despite what the truck looks like it was meant for).


Anybody know of individual metal pinion gears for the Mini-T?

[Freak e-maxx1]

Mip!!!

[kingt0m]

i want to get a Orion Baja motor to replace the stock motor in my mini t. This is prolly a stupid question but i normally dont do electric rc...but how exactly do i install the new motor? gimmie the kindergarden version please.

PS. By the way, is this a pretty solid motor for the T? how much of an improvement over the stock?

[microrcdude]

-take off the right wheel
-unscrew the gear cover
-unscrew the motor
-unplug motor
-plug in new motor
-screw in new motor
-screw on gear cover
-put tire back on

[early622]

To be fair, the market for a sub-$200 1/18th scale R/C truck is currently much bigger than the market for a $300 4WD buggy. I do find it curious that Associated would in effect 'splinter' the burgeoning micro off-road segment, going with a 4WD truck rather than 2WD, but they must realize the racing market isn't significant enough to worry about (Despite what the truck looks like it was meant for).


Anybody know of individual metal pinion gears for the Mini-T?

use the hpi rs4 gear...awsome performance and its metal...doesnt melt or strip and has a set screw to keep it in place...and only for 4 bucks each too

[BJoeHandley]

What do you think?

[BJoeHandley]

And this one....

[SteveK]

Nice bug. I am painting one for my brother in a similar color (Fasescent Blue). I found if you use a silver Sharpie instead of a black one, it looks like chrome trim around the windows.

[BJoeHandley]

Thanks Steve, I may try that on this one, the Micro Brew Hauler, and Parma "49" Merc.

[SteveK]

I got the MB Hauler, and the window lines are almost non-existent. And if you haven't mounted it, see if the Losi extended post set will fit: The included Trinity posts are kinda cruddy.

[uaerc]

20912 big block Mini T special edition. How fast is this motor. ??? compared to the Micro Monster Wild

[GT Freak]

Building a MINI-T from a box of parts i got, so far its coming along nicely.Im down to:

tranny case
tires
out drives
electronics
:)

[BJoeHandley]

Sorry it took so long Steve, I was on vacation. The front was a little on the short side and too wide to fit with the blower. The rear worked fine though, I just drilled the holes too close and the posts fit at an odd angle now. I jst started beating the piss out of it at a local dirt lot, some of the Krylon I applied to the outside chipped off, but not nearly as much as I thought. The Testors Chrome silver stuck pretty well too, all things considered.

Hey uaerc, a co-worker stuck one of those motors in his foam profile bipe (the new ulitmate 3D one, can't remember the exact name). From what he told me, it flew as good if not better on a half hour charge than it does on a full charge with the original motor! He was practially hovering it off the ground with the stock prop! I have seen one of the Peak Chubby's run, very impressive, just watch out for solid objects :D

[dkj-M3]

I like the orion baja motor, but I'm getting the mamba brushless system soon

[GT Freak]

well, all i need now is a set of bearrings for the tranny, and ill have min-T2 done :)

[microrcdude]

mini-t2?

[Freak e-maxx1]

any one know where i can get a nitro conversion for the mini-t?

[microrcdude]

I know someone was selling one on ebay.

[Freak e-maxx1]

do u have a link?

[dkj-M3]

the link i had doesn't work anymore. but you can probably find something on e-bay

[Freak e-maxx1]

i was looknig yesterday but couyldnt find any thing

[GT Freak]

has any been here: http://www.beatyourtruck.com?? mamba brushless in a mini-t....ITS CRAZY!

[GT Freak]

heres my latest project: mini-t2 all i ned now is tranny bearings.
Ive added tires since pic was taken. :p sorry about the size, but new to this pic posting thing! and what can u expect from a crappy web cam?

[Casey]

My Baja Bug Mini-T:

Full Bearings
Losi Oil Shocks
Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs
RPM Revolvers

http://images.andale.com/f2/107/104/1827656/1097872822529_Baja_d_front_angle.jpg

http://images.andale.com/f2/107/104/1827656/1096939758628_Baja_b_rear_angle.jpg

[Freak e-maxx1]

nice looks like a old dune buggy good job!!!

[BJoeHandley]

Nice bug Casey!

[BJoeHandley]

Just picked up the Losi Ball Diff for my Mini today, any tips for tuning it?

[RCGuru1]

Hey guys I jus bought a new Losi Mini T today and can't wait to get it rolling! I bought some Aluminum shocks and ball bearings too. One question can I charge the 6cell pack on my Dynamite Vision Peak Plus charger? If I put a mini t connector on it?

[RCGuru1]

Also what motors can I run with the stock speedo?

[BJoeHandley]

Does it charge Ni-MH? (sorry I can't remember if it does at the moment), If it does, you can just try to cut the amps down to 1 amp and let it peak.

[RCGuru1]

Yes it's a peak charger Nicad/Nimh and will charge at 1 and 4 amps.