octura props

[chris-a]

Are there anyone out there that can tell me what the M, P, V, X, Y, and Z on the octura prop means? I know the X is a low lift prop, but the rest leaves me clueless. help, anyone?

[Doubledog]

I'm still learning after all these years.

I've got one of all of them (larger sizes) & have ran them all on V' hulls. Don't care if its a hydro prop or not, its got tried out on the V. For instance, today ran a P767-3 on my Gator. Seemed to like it just didn't GPS it for top end #'s, but it seemed to do good.

[chris-a]

I have just fund one more, called H667 at http://www.discounthobbies4u.com/catalog/octura_h667_2546664.htm and it looks like one of your cuts. The one with a straight leading edge.

[Doubledog]

Looks very similar to the ABC H-series they've got. Let us know how it runs.

[chris-a]

oh no, way to big for me, I'm just trying to figure out the letters. I run a 3.5 hydro so I think 50mm is the biggest for me, although I currently have a P230 I would like to try out someting like the octura's 2135 so that it get's more rpm with the same amount of pich.
What do you think Doubledog?

[Doubledog]

You're running a P230? Oh, I see its a hydro now. Have you considered an X440-3 or X447-3 ? Low lifting props but you never know. AeroMarine has them for $14. I know, just bought some. LOL. (special project, shhhh.) Even a 1950-3 might would work depending on what % you're running. If it doesn't, try cutting the diameter down while still maintaining the pitch & a little tounge removal. Those smaller props are fun to work because they don't take so long.

Buy all you can & test them. One thing to remember: you'll get your money back, even if you do a few mods. I've bought and sold 30 or more the last two years and might've let one go for a few bones cheaper, but made up for it on the next. As long as there's boats, people need propellers.

Take care.

[Ron Olson]

An "M" prop is a Modified prop with some of the leading edge (tongue) removed. I have 2 of them, an M447 and the new M445 which is similar in size as the Prather 220.
Here is a definition from Octura, not easy to understand:
The Octura Propeller Definition Table SERIES USES CHARACTERISTICS NOTES 0900 Scale boats. Submerged drive Low pitch prop. Blade area loaded toward the tip of the blade 0937/3 has 1/8" shaft. Electric scale - e.g. 40" Dumas ChrisCraft w/700bb & 0937/3 1200 Submerged, electric, heavy hull 1300 3.5cc mono. Submerged drive Low lift. Blade area loaded toward the tip of the blade Nitro 1400 Surface drive Medium levels of lift. Blade area weighted toward the tip of the blade. Nitro Suits heavier hulls. X400 General purpose prop mono tunnel hydro Low lift Light loading at the tip of the blade .125" shaft for DD 05’s. To 47mm in geared/large electrics. The mono/tunnel prop. Also on hydros X600 General purpose mono tunnel hydro Tip squared to increase loading across the outer blade As for X400’s M-Series General purpose lighter running hulls The x series with a trimmed tongue 47mm popular with Aveox 1412 & 12 cells Y series As for x series, monos, tunnels The x-series with 10% extra pitch through the blade 35mm on neodymium motors 6 cells 1500 A do-it-yourself prop Low lift/high rake prop. Large blade area. Limited diameters. Designed to be customised A rarity in electrics 1600/1800 Riggers, hydros A medium-high lift prop. 1800 has higher pitch ratio Mainly nitro 1700, 1.25 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.4 Outboard riggers, hydros, 4 cell hydros Highest levels of lift in Octura range No rake on trailing edge 1/8" shaft for direct drive electrics, Larger sizes on geared 8 cell plus hydros. Popular for Saw’s P-series Riggers hydros A 1700 with less lift due to increased rake in trailing edge P747 popular for 12 cells 1900./2200 Riggers Hydros Medium lift. Offset blades. Gear driven - high torque motors - rare V900 Outrigger/hydro - SAW Medium lift Very low loading at the tip of the blade Suited to light boats and high revving motors. 3 blades provide adequate area for thrust Popular at saw particularly with geared or neodymium magnet motors 2000/2100 Outrigger/hydro High lift props Originally designed for geared electrics 1/8" shafts on 2132 and 2135 for direct drive car motors. Used successfully in 4 cell SAW

[chris-a]

:confused:

Ron:

Where did you find this info?

[Ron Olson]

I had some prop questions myself a while back and this was sent to me. It's a little difficult to figure out reading it.
What I can decipher. "X" props low lifting. "M" are low lifting modified props. The "Y" seiries have 10% more pitch than "X" series (?). "V" are supposed to be SAW props but but being used more on outrigger hydros. The 1. and 2. props are all plastic made for SAW running only and rarely used any more. Bigger confusion comes in when boaters are using various props on boats that they weren't originally designed for because of newer hull designs and hotter motors in the past few years. Some of these were first made way back in the 1950's.

[chris-a]

So, for my (outrigger) hydro which I forgot to tell you, I shouldn't use more lift then necessary to get it of the water. Instead get the most power into forward thrust.

Could you say that M and Y are modifications of the X prop:
M with less tounge and Y with more pitch. And with the M prop you sould be able to go up in size since less tounge helps unload the engine?

How about remove the tounge from a Y prop? Then you sould be getting an M prop with more pich?

[Chris LaPanse]

Mabye try a v-937/3? That would probably be best for all out speed, and your motor might be able to handle it.

[Ron Olson]

Chris, yes, it would have helped if you would have let us know exactly you needed the props for.

[chris-a]

I'm a beginner at this so I don't know exactly, but I'm thinking about heatracing.

I've got a home made, scratch built outrigger hydro.
81cm/32" long
2.1kg/4.6lbs
O.S. .21RG-MX with O.S A5 and 15% nitro (for the economy minded boater according to O.S.)
Hatori quiet tuned pipe
.187 flex shaft with a prather 230ss

The engine could have been a bit more powerfull, so I'm thinking about increasing the port duaration. And I might even have to highten the strut.

V-937/3, I'll buy one and we'll see.

[chris-a]

Me boat!

[Ron Olson]

A V937/3 is too small. I run one of these on my .12 'rigger. Gary Preusse has a V940/3 on his .12 'rigger but his motor is beefier than mine. Maybe go with a 1445 instead. I don't have my prop chart handy

[ahab2]

try a difrent pipe befor you grind the engine i use mac an i ciut 1/2 inch so far My engine is doing prety good for power

did you break yours in right?

[Doubledog]

NICE rigger

[chris-a]

Oh well, I've just ordered a v937/3, x440, x445, x640 and a x645 so I'll just try them on and see how they work, those who don't will be up for sale.

Yes, I know there's a lot I can do to increase the power of my engine with out the grinder. It's just that I've gotten this itch in my fingers. :rolleyes:

Thanks doubledog.

[JamesMA]

I've just stubled upon this site as400-news.com (http://www.as400-news.com), could I just copy the technical
articles from the site or do I need special permission?. I'm doing a project for school.

James