Kyosho Landmax Forum v3.0 [Archive]

l0freq

05-30-2004, 06:44 AM

hi guys good news and bad news

after an eventful weekend of funny wweather and rc mods i managed to get some vids done, they arent good but we are just learning how to get the best footage from a car cam. will definitely try harder next time.

so, here are the cam test vids.

one stationary vid (camera sitting on ground and us driving wildly in front of it) is 2.1mb (http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040529%20-%20rc%20cam%20stationary%20test.wmv)

one chase cam vid (camera on roof of my focus, pointing back at lee's buggy trying to follow me, almost impossible as im on gripless PVC wheels and hes on supergrip rubber but u can see we try) 5.9mb (http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040530%20-%20rc%20cam%20chase%20test.wmv)

rightclick saveas on each of the above links to get the files - both are WMV format but again using DivX 5.1.1 for encoding.

bad news? at the end of the day i switched to lee's "high grip" tyres and was doing some runs, but at low-mid rpms, my motor suddenly stalled. couldnt spin the flywheel so we feared the worst - took home for a strip down - turns out somehow the crankshaft's wrist pin (is it called the wrist pin? the little stump at the end of the crank that the bottom of the conrod is attached to) totally sheared off the crankshaft! piston and rod appear fine but the crank is now useless!

here is an album with some pics to explain. (http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040530%20-%20crankshaft%20failure/)

has this happened to anyone before? how does this happen?? the motor was running rich and temps were cool, to me it seems like a flaw in the crankshaft material itself and it just broke from stress and some kind of flaw in its build? the motor is an Ofna Force .26 big block. its just a 3.5cc .21 block with an oversized bore, i think.

any clues guys? now i have to look for a replacement crank, from where who knows :( i hope this is fixable somehow... without reoccuring! the motor is less than a yr old too :( i wonder if i have any grounds to complain to Ofna about it... :(

anyway there u go any comments or help on this one appreciated. i still have my Wasp powered landmax to drive so hopefully no problems with that till my force motor is repaired... sigh.

SixVi6-Camaro

05-30-2004, 05:26 PM

Ouch that sucks.. I bet it let go more because of the drifting setup. Drifting in nitros is very hard on the engine because of the constant high rpms and super quick reving because of the small load with such little traction. imo.. just get a new engine. I bet that crankshaft will cost almost as much as buying a new engine plus the piston is pushed clear through the sleve which is a sign of a worn engine. I love those videos though. Very cool stuff.

l0freq

05-30-2004, 07:18 PM

i thought about that (drifting setup putting stress on the motor) so before i even started, we richened the motor half a turn (pretty gluggy at this setting), and i set my end point adjust on my controller so the max it would open the engine's slide carb throttlebody was halfway. during the runs i was using the barest pressure on the trigger to control the car (didnt need any more power) the entire time... i thought that would have been ok given that the motor was still cool after runs (could hold your hand on the heatsink for a while, water drops just sat there without boiling off...)

to remove the crank from the motor, the conrod was hanging in the way - so i had to manually push the piston up that far to get it out of the way so the crank could be free'd :) it wasnt like that when it came out of the motor!!! hehe.

i wrote to ofna about it but who knows if they will respond. youre right about a new motor... i dont know about shop prices but the retail price on the crank from ofna's parts list is US$75! the motor only cost me US$109 from www.extremercmotorsports.com! bah what a waste, if so!

i really hope i hear from ofna about it... i'll have to research the crank cost here too since the Ofna Force .21 P4, Black T8, and Force .25 all use the same crank as the force .26 ...grr

Blaster

05-31-2004, 04:19 PM

L0freq - very nice vids! In fact, the 2nd one with both LM drifting over wet asphalt is very cool!

I agree with SixVi6. The crankshaft might cost as much as 70% of a new engine. Although I'd call OFNA and ask them to take a look at it and tell you WHY it happened. The part was ripped off. :eek: Looks like metal stress... :mad: My 02 cents. ;)

SixVi6-Camaro

06-01-2004, 01:22 AM

well that good that you limited the throttle. Its probably just poor quality materials. Sport engines tend to use cheaper quality everyhitng making them a lot quicker to stress fracture. Either way that engine is worn. you should never be able to push a piston through the sleve like that unless it was worn out but I guess if it ran like that keep runnign it if you can get a crank cheap enough. hopfully ofna will do something about it.

french-fry

06-02-2004, 03:32 PM

Hey lofreq what is the black part of your patented drift wheels. Is that just paint or what? I didn't see a picture that explains it in your album.

As for me, turns out it may be a couple weeks before I get an engine. Money has a funny way of getting spent on more important things. :(

-Alex

l0freq

06-02-2004, 04:44 PM

frenchfry - it was just paint, that comes off instantly, but it was just for looks, all white wheels were too g4y for me. ;)

and the response from ofna?

"Please send the motor to us and we will look at replacing it for you.
Andrew
OFNA Racing Technical Department"

perhaps there is some hope left!

VoodooKiller

06-07-2004, 07:20 PM

Sorry I havn't been around on the forums for a while, I've been really busy at school, and moving home for summer. Well I thought I finally got all the pieces I neede to make the new engine swap work, but alas, I am still missing two pieces :mad: . The local hobby store does not have a pistion stopper, so I have to go to one about 45min away to get it, and no hardware store I have gone to has a nut that fits onto the new O.S. .21 engine. I need a nut so I can rethread the threads after I cut a little bit of it off.

ARGH, I want to drive this car agian, its been so long!

l0freq

06-10-2004, 08:59 PM

lee and i are currently on a plan on converting our 1:8 buggies into 1:7 scale on road sedans (like the ofna, and the HPI lightning street) - new drift wheels coming using shaved buggy wheels and truck radiator hose!!! watch this space!!! :D

geoff rodger

06-13-2004, 05:13 AM

Hi there
just would like to know if part number GT30 kyosho 2speed unit would fit my lm2 as at the moment it has a 8port race engine ,18T bell plus a 44 spur gear in her , Would this 2 speed make much difference also what would the 2 speed kit come with in the way of number of teeth on clutch bell and spur gears , I think the ratio is first gear 53:13 second gear 50:16 if this means anything
thanks for any help.

evilGearhead

06-13-2004, 05:52 PM

does anyone have a spare lm2 manual i can purchase? i know i can download it, but i would really like to have one.

ill give someone $15 (shipped) for one.

Monster-Rally

06-14-2004, 11:15 AM

Hey All,

I am a new owner of a LandMax2...
Wow is this thing just Tooooo Fast... :eek:

Can you tell me more about the car set-up?

Steering is jumpy? The toe seems to be very aggressive.
Can I run a flater set-up? Like 1-2 Deg of toe?

Is there an ideal caster set-up. Factory has some influence. but can or should I change it?

At what CRAZY SPEED will the two speed transmission kick in???
I had to back off at 30 MPH...... :cool:

I look forward to any help you can give on set-up.

T.
Austin, Tx

jeroen

06-14-2004, 04:20 PM

Welcome Austin

I drive a LM1 but I just play a with the setup sometimes,so i don't know the size.
All I can say is: 2 toe in in the rear is OK front I have zero too,and caster can be alitle negavtive(inside?)just check the tirez for wearing out too quick on hte inside.

The 2 speed makes the car abit faster and pull harder,but don't expect a rocket car.
If you want more speed just buy an bigger clutchbell and a other exhaust.

What tirez are you running? as the rally once don't have alo of grip.

As I was too lazy too post my new 3 speed vid over here(yes I'm ashame for it)
Here you go: http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=29935
just copy paste and fill in rc-pics without the - :mad:

jeroen

06-14-2004, 04:23 PM

second picture

evilGearhead

06-14-2004, 11:00 PM

i want some better off-road shocks for this thing. will ofna front buggy shocks fit?

Monster-Rally

06-15-2004, 11:15 AM

Jeroen,

Thank you for the warm welcome.

I will be changing the steering set-up to lay flat (1% toe) and see if that helps with high speed stability.

I have been driving a 4-link 1/8 Monster truck (XTM X-Factor) for about a year now.
I thought it was fast at 35 Mph..But wow..This Landmax is like a hocky-puck on paving.

You are right, the original tires have poor grip. I would like to get a new set soon. (maby a little larger road tire to handle the off-road better).

Your rally is realy nice....a 3 speed trans... :eek:
I have a lot to learn from your this forum..

Blaster

06-16-2004, 02:19 PM

geoff rodger - welcome to this forum! Hope you enjoy your Landmax. Honestly I don't know if the GT30 (2 speed for LM1) will fit the LM2. As the 2 versions have 2 different chassis I would not assume that it is a direct fit. The chassis of LM1 has a length of 16.25" (412.7mm) and the LM2 has 15.4 (390.5mm) so... :confused:

monster rally - welcome to this forum too! The Landmax is really a great car and you certainly will love it.

As for setup, I never worked on it as I do on my buggy. But will agree with Jeroen on his tips. If you want to use the car on asphalt (track, parking lot, etc) you will want to lower the ride height. The tires that I use for dirty asphalt are GTW004 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=gtw004&FVPROFIL=++) or GT039 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV594&P=0) . The slick ones have not much grip outside the RC tracks. And for off road, use either the stock one or the GT043 - which is the same as the original - (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV618&P=0) or the GT049 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMU44&P=0) . The 2 speed gives it a better start but not much gain on top speed, if you use the stock gearing that comes with it. Maybe you will want to change the engine latter... As for steering, maybe the Special Servo saver with bearings (IFW105) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVD12&P=7) and the aluminum steering plate GTW022 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBRV4&P=7) . Altought they are too expensive and doesn't pay back in steering improvement.

evilGearhead - I am not sure but as far as I know, the Ofna buggy (9.5) can share many parts with the Inferno MP 7.5. And the inferno shares many parts with the Landmax. So.... The shocks might fit. :)

l0freq

06-20-2004, 07:27 PM

just a quickie:
http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040612%20-%20new%20rubber%20pipe%20wheels/thumbs/040612%20-%20new%20rubber%20pipe%20wheels%2009.JPG new pics of drift wheels ver2 (http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040612%20-%20new%20rubber%20pipe%20wheels/)

and our
http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040620%20-%207th%20scale,%201st%20stage/thumbs/040620%20-%207th%20scale,%201st%20stage%2003.JPG 7th scale project! (http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040620%20-%207th%20scale,%201st%20stage/) big brother to our mighty LM's :)

lee has drawn up those plans of a nissan laurel, 2D into corel draw, and i mocked up a scale size paper model based on the buggy's extended wheelbase (420mm) so thats roughly what the finished car will look like (perhaps a bit more detailed) but 310mm wide and 740mm long! hehe

have already test driven the new extended buggy chassis - drives like a car instead of a spinny spin spin buggy on tarmac, and when you put the power down it drifts like an LM! pics & vids next week, as we start on the body frame rails and metal shell...!!

the LM is retired till it gets its new engine - if Ofna agree to replace my motor for me! :|

Monster-Rally

06-23-2004, 01:16 PM

The LandMax-3 I am driving has a breaking problem... :rolleyes:

It locks up the back wheels first (really the back right first)
This causes a spin out most of the time...
So in an effort to make a better rally... :cool:

Is there a way to balance the braking system?

Rally....Rally...Rally......(I am hooked)

mook

06-25-2004, 10:57 AM

allright peeps

im a total newbie to this game, and could use some advice. In four weeks or so i am getting my hands on some cash and have decided to buy a landmax.

I phoned three five models today in the uk. A landmax will set me back £299 for the kit or £350 as a radio deal and £385 'all in'.

The radio is a twin stick futaba job with 3003 servos. Do the 3003's have enough guts (torque) to turn the vehicle etc or do i really- truly- need a hi torq uprated servo for the steering.

Also, i have read all of the other LM thread. it was suggested to strip the chassis and then re-build using threadlock on all parts. would you aggree that should be done?

Truth or myth, the gsr21: people have stated that they have found metal shavings in the block of the gsr21 which are leftovers from machining. Should i gut the gsr21 &, clean and Seal before running, or is the gsr21 good to go from the box.

lastly i am looking for a supplier of medial pro tarmac 11's in the uk.

thats all for now

mook

jeroen

06-26-2004, 01:04 PM

monster-rally:

You can balance the front and rear brakes on your car,just adjust the collar thats on your brake shafts.
So that the front will have more break than the rear.

Welcome Mook:

I'f I where you I should order a LM2 in the USA,as here in europe kyosho is kinda pricy.

For steering you will need a stronger servo than a 3003,Hitec does offer some nice servo's speed 625 torque 645 or the digital once 5625 or 5645,these servo's you can buy for around $40 for the non digitals and $55 for the digitals.

The LM2 is a kit,so you have too build it your own,use thread locker on every metal/alu part you want too.

I think it a myth,as i never heard of metal parts in a GS 21 ever.
You can seal the carb and backplate if you feel like doing it.

The only place I know where you can buy tarmacs online is: www.meganitro.com

mook

06-26-2004, 02:46 PM

thanks for the welcome and advice. I have checked out towerhobbies and an lm2 scooby do is £219 less shipping. result. But.. tower hobbies no longer sells the two speed transmission. Never mind the kyosho .21 will be powerful enough for a newbie like me.

i have contacted the medial pro website in the US but they never got back to me. I dont fancy handing out my credit card details to a company that cant even reply to a customer query.

Anyway, my thanks once again.

kind regards
Mook

Madaz

06-26-2004, 08:02 PM

welcome mook: threefivemodels sell medial pro tarmacII's and also a shop in kent had some when i went there a year or so ago. just phone around. the trick is finding some with 19mm hexs but i would just get some adapters for 17mm (ofna or just get the inferno hexs and nuts)

it wouldnt hurt to seal the carb and backplate when u get it but dont worry too much about metal shavings. id say its unlikely.
Threadlock the grub screws in the driveshaft cups and the steering kingpins and anywhere else u think. (metal to metal parts)

the standard 3003 servos will do the job only just :rolleyes: but better to upgrade you will notice it will steer/handle much better. Maybe you could trade in one of the brand new 3003 to knock a bit off the price of a hi torque when u buy the kit. A model shop may give you 10 quid for the 3003. Ive had a hitec 625mg ( it cost me 40 pounds) for a while now and its performed faultlessly.

Blaster

06-27-2004, 08:08 AM

Monster-Rally - welcome! Based on Jeroen tips you should have had your breake issue solved by now. Hope you enjoy your LM!

mook - welcome! Your 3003 servos on steering won't do the job the right way. Better get a stronger one as the Hitech suggested by Jeroen / Madaz or a Futaba 9405 or 9402. As for the 2 speed, I dunno where Kyosho still seels it. But I wonder if OFNA Hyper 7 2 speed (OFN19240) or OFN18990 might fit...:confused: Also the Kyosho offers the GT-030 2 speed (still available at Tower) to the LM1. I dunno if the gears will fit a LM2. Any clue guys??? :confused:

BTW... I have a Brand New Kyosho GTW-020 to sell. I bought as a spare to the one installed on my LM2. If you are interested.... :D

mook

06-27-2004, 10:11 AM

thanks gents and apologies for the book below

cheers for the tip madaz re the medial pros.If i can stay away from the pub, Im going to buy the two carbon shock towers? from fibrelite and four medial pro tarmac 11's on tuesday. I dont want to race or anything like that, but those tarmac11's on an LM look the business. Also i do want the tyres to last more than five minutes. would i be right in saying that 60 shore 'hard' compound would last longer than say 25 shore 'soft'?

i have read that the standard tuned pipe that comes with the kyosho .21 conspires to make the engine run hot. A bloke said that by replacing the kyosho pipe with another tuned pipe would cause a vast reduction in engine temperature. So, in a few weeks time, i am planing to buy an RB 9886 tuned pipe. alas due to ultra noob status i have a question. Do i need the RB header/manifold as well or would the kyosho header/manifold be ok. Also on full scale cars, some people use exhaust wrap to cover the manifold/ header. By wrapping the header/manfold they are able to reduce engine temps and gain HP. allegedly. Anyone got any input on that.

Reason being: I want to create a 'real' look car. My plan is to use window tint film for the windows on the shell & i will be fitting chromed mesh where the grill is on the front and on the bonnet. ultimately i dont want to put to many holes in the windows as this will affect 'the look'. Speaking of which, How handy is Need for speed underground! I have been fecking around with different paint schemes on the subaru. nice way to spend time.

would a hi torque servo on the brakes make the car stop any better?

Hi blaster. thanks for the help. If the gtw-020 fits an LM2, then i might just be interested, and im sure we could work out a fair price for the two of us. Give me four weeks (got tyres and pipe to buy first) and then we can see what we can do.

Im off to a bad start lol. I have'nt even bought the kit yet, but im about to buy hop ups. oops.

Once again my thanks to all

Mook

l0freq

06-27-2004, 08:23 PM

heres a novel. grab a hot cuppa and get comfy.

mook - hello. nice to see you joining the fun, you will be having a blast for a long time with your LM purchase :)

just to go over what others have mentioned, as an approval - as far as the servos - like madaz says the 3003's only just do the job, when i got my lm we instantly upgraded to hitec 605 series servos on throttle and steer, (having it on throttle only really contributes to better braking), but after i had to revert to 3003's to troubleshoot a problem the 3003's just dont rank at all. when on the ground stationary the 3003 on steering visibly had trouble turning the wheels just from the friction on the ground (ok, when rolling, this would be compensated for, but it will be up to you how responsive you like your steering). anyway ive run 605's for ages then now upgraded to 625s and they are great. stay out of water tho as i have had my servos fail after blasting thru water/driving on wet roads, causing some leaks into my servos and causing a bit of interference... but opening them up to dry them out has helped.

we all know the gs21 is not a great motor. but it will do you for a start. be prepared for a fair bit of arm cramps from pullstarting that sucker (unless you get a starter box) - the tuning on the gs21's are very fickle and no 2 days seem to be the same. be constantly on the watch for amount of exhaust smoke, and come in every so often and check heat sink temps with the water drop test (water should take 2-3 secs to sizzle off at the most, if it vapourises instantly youre way too hot!) to make sure things arent cooking. you might find yourself adjusting the mixture alot, thats what i found anyway. one problem i had was the plastic needle valve becoming loose and 'unscrewing' itself while the motor was running (from vibration??) and this of course throws your tuning out of whack! solution: get some thin hose, or a strong rubber band, and wrap it round the needle, to help hold it in place while youre driving. you will still be able to make adjustments using a small flathead screwdriver, but at least be at ease that the motor isnt getting leaner and leaner while youre driving. but the gs21s run hot all the time and theres not much you can do about it.

so, your idea of 'scale' appearance without too many holes in the car windows, may not help your motor. unless youre running in cold outdoor temps, im not sure if that is the best idea. i understand totally what youre doing, i tried for the same effect on my body, cutting out front grilles and replacing with mesh, side windows etc. it looks fantastic, but from experience you will regret it later on. every cut you make in the body weakens it - holes on the front will start cracking with a few impacts (and you WILL be hitting things!! :) ) and you will soon find the cracks spreading all up your body.

i would suggest you think about one detailed body for 'show'/static display, and another more functional one that you can bash with and have fun without worrying about ventilation, damage, etc. up to you tho :) just wanted to mention these things from someone whos done the same thing!

i cant comment on a different pipe contributing to engine temps. but the stock gs21 pipe is probably not the best (although it is strong!) a 3rd party pipe will probably help on performance but be careful, the thinner aluminium pipes you can get are weaker and more prone to damage (the 'exhaust pipe' extention may bend easily, and the pressure nipple fitting may be prone to coming loose). again from experience. since this is your first foray, id suggest keeping it all stock, and just taking it easy. the gs21 also has a 90degree exhaust header and relies on another 90degree rubber elbow coupling to complete the bend to the stock pipe, a replacement pipe will fit on that elbow, but the gs21 (as far as i know) will not accept an aftermarket rear port header.

the 'heat wrap' used on real motors has 2 functions, one to reduce under hood temps (ambient air temp) and to maintain the temp of the exhaust gases - hotter gas = faster movement = more efficient flow for the motor. but dont mistake this temperature control with the main temp of the rest of the motor - this mod will only affect the exhaust velocity. in addition, normal motors are 4 stroke, the gs21 and most rc motors are 2 stroke - so, wrapping the RC header MAY not benefit the flow of the exhaust simply due to the function of the motor.

finally, this whole hobby is a 'bad idea' when it comes to funds and expenditure... but its all for the fun you will have instead@! you'll remember that when you get your LM going and you just hook it thru a huge powerslide ;)

thus endeth the novel.

l0freq

06-27-2004, 08:37 PM

i'll follow up with a quick update - heres stage 2 of the '7th scale' drift project me and lee are working on:

http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040628%20-%207th%20scale,%202nd%20stage/thumbs/040628%20-%207th%20scale,%202nd%20stage%2027.JPG 7th scale stage 2! (http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040628%20-%207th%20scale,%202nd%20stage/)

pics at the end are to give scale to the paper model (273cm long) and the good ole LM1 with mint condition wrx shell *smirk* but you can see the size difference compared with the LM!

made the main body frame rails, body shape using stiff foam shaped by hand, based on scaled up vector drawings of the real cars shape. 2 main 'slab' sides, then front/rear built with custom pieces to get a basic shape. aluminium roof cut to scale and bolted on. and a boot, for fun :) hey there was a ton of space back there.

http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040628%20-%207th%20scale,%202nd%20stage/thumbs/040628%20-%207th%20scale,%202nd%20stage%2018.JPG

next on the list - windows, front and rear lexan windshields + ventilation ducts, strengthening all foam connect points and final shaping, body mounting system to chassis (to allow for the heavy! weight + some 'give' in case of impacts), then final metal skinning, 'panelbeating' and painting! stay tuned

HKmaxx

06-28-2004, 07:59 AM

Bolt on header for GS 21 and OS 21 motors.

HKmaxx

06-28-2004, 08:02 AM

delete double post

mook

06-28-2004, 09:59 AM

Salutations to all

way cool stuff there lofreq, and that was the best novel I have read for ages. Thanks for the welcome as well. I was thinking about exhaust wrapping the manifold and tuned pipe. i reckoned that the exhaust wrap would reduce the temperature under the lexan shell. A positive would be cooler, denser air for the airfilter to breathe on and for the cylinder head to cool with. The servo info is a distinct bummer, but hey you dont drive a real car with dodgy steering. Landmax except no substitute. When my re-morgage comes in lol, i am planning to sit down at the computer with some beers and go silly with the credit card. My overall plan is build the LM and run as stock for a while & then slowly add on the hop ups so i can truly appreciate every tuning mod. I hear you there, i am planning in a few months to buy a basher lid, but i am certainly interested in going for the scale look,with things like an inner 'hidden' aerial, functioning lights etc.

interesting pic hkmaxx,am i right in saying that manifolds are universalfitment for all .21's or do you need a specific manifold for specific engines?

I phoned three five models and no joy with the medialpro tarmac11's.meganitro are useless aswell.i Asked for a price forfour wheels and tyres shipped to the uk.They qouted me $15.50 shiped to ireland :confused: i think i will have to bite the bullet and go with meganitro.

One more question.Tomorow I will be sending a cheque to hansell composites ltd (http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/) for two carbon shocktowers for the landmax1.Does anyone know if these towers are the same for the LM2.

The bits in question are

http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/kyosho/kyland.gif

Best regards

Mook

Blaster

06-28-2004, 10:53 AM

l0Freq - Nice tips. Very well explained! Please write more novels... ;) Your 1/7th project looks very interesting! Wanna follow it closely. In fact I wish I had more abilities to do one project myself... :o

HKmaxx - nice off-road driven LM... Hm... Is this an F-150 version?? What manifold is the one you used??

Mook - Nope! The LM1 and LM2 towers are different. Dunno if they will fit on each other but I doubt, as the bulkheads have different dimensions.

Enjoy your stock LM. And certainly we will see new pics from you with upgrades, very soon. :D

HKmaxx

06-29-2004, 01:25 AM

Mook - round port rear exhaust engines are in the majority so the common headers will fit no problems. Its only the GS .21 and OS .21RG that I have seen that have the odd port setup. There is an adapter available to convert it to round port configuration so you can use the more common headers.

Blaster - Thanks, its a LM2 Mitsu Evo with st tyres - better ground clearance for the rough stuff. The header I got from a LHS in Hong Kong who had a batch made up.

Blaster

06-29-2004, 02:58 PM

HKmaxx - nice engine mounts. Where did you got those spacers (between the engine and the engine mount)??

Jimmy33

06-29-2004, 03:15 PM

heya!

Im BACK! Bring on all the dust, dirt, rain, snow whatever - my baby is back on the road (well track! well...field!)- armed with a new OS engine, 2 speed transmission and loads of other mods im ready to rock and roll! Yes its been almost a year but who cares!

I have FINALLY :p painted my Mistsu shell! :D bright yellow armed with the stadium trucks chrome wheels and tires (i drive off road only!) its ready to go and looks the dogs! :cool: Pics will follow as soon as i get of my lazy arse and take them! :rolleyes:

Come the hols its time to rip my mates 1/10 tamiay to bits again in a race! hehe he thinks he can beat a landmax....HA! Nothing can beat us! :cool:

SO LETS RACE! :D

l0freq

06-29-2004, 07:58 PM

Get Excited@!!! ;) :D :) :)

HKmaxx

06-30-2004, 02:30 AM

Blaster - those mounts are from my Supermaxx truck. I run OS engines in both cars. Don't know if it will bolt into the Landmax2. LOL.

Blaster

06-30-2004, 02:44 PM

Jimmy33 - welcome back! Pis pics pics.....

HKmaxx - LOL. I am in fact interested on these spacers you used between the engine mount and engine itself. This is similar of what I was looking for to put on my Mad Force. These spacers will attatch onto the Dual Shock and stop the shock scratch (I explaned how it works on MF forum :rolleyes: )

Madaz

07-01-2004, 01:59 AM

g'day jimmy33 about time u came back, one year without lmx is a long time. i reckon your lancer would look the dogs, i wanna see!!!

mook, if you want some carbon fibre bits for your landmax2 incase you arent aware the Inferno MP7.5 shares most of the aluminium parts with a LM2, radio tray, steering bulkhead, centre diff bulkhead (maybee some other parts but check with the guys here with LM2s before you buy) so you could do another re-mortgage if u feel brave! :eek: :eek: :eek:

l0freq

07-02-2004, 10:29 AM

sneak peek!

http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040702%20-%207th%20scale,%203rd%20stage%2012.JPG

more soon :D

HKmaxx

07-02-2004, 01:56 PM

Blaster - those spacers came with the OS motor. You have to use the spacers because of the large pullstart. You could make them.

Jimmy33 - My Landmax is setup exactly the same only with the wider offset Lancier rear rims all around. Need pics, pics, pics....

dazrogue

07-02-2004, 02:00 PM

Hi i am new to gas powerd rc and i wonderd if you could help i got an old kyosho buggy off some guy at a yard sale but i'm not sure what it is, he said it may be a land max if i post some pics could you have look and give me some idea of what it is, if it's not a landmax what do you think it could be. i need to find out what it is so i can order a manual and get some parts for it. Thanks :confused:

Blaster

07-03-2004, 01:25 PM

HKmaxx - do you know the PN??

dazrogue - No problem. Send us the pics!!! :rolleyes:

l0freq - nice job! You have the skills... I see some drift wheels on your project car... Will it be a drifter??

BTW, what you are using as body cover? Metal or painted plastic? Doesn't metal damadge? If now, won't it transfer any load of a eventual impact to the chassi??

l0freq

07-03-2004, 07:27 PM

here is stage 3!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040702%20-%207th%20scale,%203rd%20stage/thumbs/040703%20-%207th%20scale,%203rd%20stage%2016.JPGhttp://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040702%20-%207th%20scale,%203rd%20stage/thumbs/040703%20-%207th%20scale,%203rd%20stage%2017.JPGhttp://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040702%20-%207th%20scale,%203rd%20stage/thumbs/040703%20-%207th%20scale,%203rd%20stage%2019.JPG

http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040702%20-%207th%20scale,%203rd%20stage/

blaster... the body skin there is thin metal sheets! behind the metal sheets is the main body shape made of foam. and yes metal will damage!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this is the whole point.. we want to have crashes and have the car warp and damage realistically :) then we can just peel off the damaged fender, 'wrap' a new metal fender on, and its done! continue bashing. the body is secured to the car by long bodyposts that only anchor thru foam - purposely designed like this so that impact transfer does not act on the chassis directly, but designed to 'twist' and shear the forces around the chassis instead. the foam is quite compliant in impact.

you will defintely be seeing some realistic accident damage photos on here soon! hehe.

today beginning final stage 4 - paint, detailing, and testing. dunno how it drives with this much weight on it!

dazrogue

07-04-2004, 04:30 AM

Thanks blaster i have tried to upload the photos but it keeps saying file size is too large cant seem to do any thing about it, also the car is now stripped so can't take anymore photos in a lower resolution at the moment, i could send them to you direct ?, if not as soon as i get it put back together i will take some more and post them Thanks for your reply Blaster.. :(

Madaz

07-04-2004, 05:37 AM

welcome dazrogue, u need to make the image to the size of about 640 x 480 pixels, use a image edit program like photoshop, irfranveiw or acdsee to crop the image or resize it to the above size. The photos you have will probably be fine you just need to reduce the filesize to under 50kb. good luck.

HKmaxx

07-04-2004, 11:03 AM

Blaster - #72404110 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=72404110&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go)

obiwan

07-04-2004, 11:12 AM

Hey ppl.
New here, great forum..

I am looking at fitting a Hyper 8 port to my lmax 1... what do I need in the way of clutch/flywheel etc to make it happen.

Running a stock lmax 1 with Repsol Escort Body.. GS21R has thrown a rod...
( R34 GTR body ( comin/tower ) got sliks new rims ( stock ones snapped in places :) ).. otherwise stock.
Shoddy servos need an upgrade too, any ideas
read.. BUDGET, this things has gone thru 5 centre spur gears, 4/5 pullstarts, numerous lower control arms, no body mounts left on it, bent chassis, clutch, clutch bell.... oh, it's never had a piston and sleeve replaced and my shocks don't leak!! :)

Should I fit a carb from an OS??

Will post piks of the new body painted up, should look :cool:

Thanks and keep it up...

Madaz

07-05-2004, 07:08 AM

obiwan, hyper21 is a good engine choice, i got one :) here are some suitable flywheels........

ofna flywheel. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDSW4&P=7
ofna 3 shoe kit. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZT6&P=7
kyosho flywheel. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU232&P=7

if u get a flywheel with two pins you can use the original landmax1 2-shoe clutch. Either way the LM1 clutchbell will work with any clutch.
Ive got a ofna flywheel/clutch kit like the link i posted and its pretty good value.

The standard carb will work fine but some people have problems tuning them, they aint the greatest carb, some say if u use a OS 20e carb it is a much smoother engine. I would like to get one for mine but it seems a lot of money when the engine runs fine as is. Its up to you....

good luck, if u have anymore questions just ask since i (and others on this forum) have done the hyper21 engine transplant already.

Blaster

07-05-2004, 09:00 AM

dazrogue - Madaz's tips is what you should follow. Just resize your photos.

HKmaxx - Tks!! :D

Obiwan - welcome! Pics of your ride.....??
;)

l0freq - It will definitely be awesome to see your action pics with cars using metal bodies... Altought I also agree that they might be heavy. I really liked your craftmanship. Maybe I will order something similar to you someday. Didn't Guigiaro and Pininfarina started with small companies???

obiwan

07-06-2004, 09:16 AM

Thanks Guys. Looks like I'll get the Ofna clutch and a new 14 tooth Bell.

As for pics, i'll post some when the new body arrives. looks really sad right now. lol.

I aint payin $100US for a carby!!!! yet. :)

Just one more thing, Engine mounts, which ones to fit it to a Lmax 1??

May hav a vid too. :)

Madaz

07-07-2004, 01:28 AM

These are the engine mounts you need for a lmx1.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU179&P=Z

post a pic of your escort looking sad, I prefer to see pictures of someones used car than a brand new one its more interesting ;) i like the escort shell a lot. Here is mine (pic taken about 1 year ago)

Blaster

07-10-2004, 03:35 PM

Madaz - hehehe. In you case I don't mind if the car body is new or not. Your pics are awesome so...

I like the Escort body a lot. Too bad it is hard to find one!!

l0freq

07-10-2004, 05:18 PM

hi guys just a few more photos and a video finally :)

7th scale 4th stage - paint and detailing (http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040708%20-%207th%20scale,%204th%20stage/)

7th scale 5th stage - final prep and running! (http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040710%20-%207th%20scale,%205th%20stage/)

we didnt crash! but we had tyre problems as you can see hehe... and the handling of mine is not the best.. lee's car had bad tyre rub but still went good, possibly due to lighter weight. we will do more tuning and hopefully more vids soon. maybe drive with madaz' LM so you can see the scale!!!

jeroen

07-11-2004, 11:45 AM

AWESOME dude :D

I like the looks of those cars.

Nice driving/drifting.

Great job done.

Blaster

07-11-2004, 01:45 PM

l0freq - man, thats what RCs are made for.... HAVE FUN! You guys really made very nice looking cars. And the drifting....WOW! Very realistic! Any plans to make the "drift kit + drift wheels" in series???

Keep up the awesome work + vids + pics! :D

Jimmy33

07-12-2004, 09:59 AM

hi bad news

all tough i am attempting a revival i am putting up for sale one of my landmax. :( However i thought that you would like a first chance as i would rather sell to someone who knows what the car is!

Its got OS Max RG engine with a pull start. 2 servos fitted and ready - just needs a reciever and transmitter to make it work. It also has front anti role bar - stadium truck tyres and wheels and 6 spoke rally wheels with rally tyres both hardly warn. A yellow mitsu Evo 7 body (the yellow one) pics will appear soon of the body as it looks kewl!

The engine is brand new and has only been run twice although i dont think the flywheel is fitted propperly :o

But the price is about 600 pounds PM me if your intrested or email me at jimny33@hotmail.com As i live in the UK i would prefere to post to UK but if someone is near me (Bedfordshire) we could arrange a meeting spot.

Anywayz thats me for now. But talk laterz

kensung

07-14-2004, 12:56 AM

Hi All,

I Hv Just Purchased A Landmax 2 With Evo 7 Body. I M Living In Malaysia And I M Planing To Play This Landmax In Our Offroad Truck In Town.

Basically I Got It Fixed Up Already, I Will Test This Rally Car Out In This Weekend. I Would Like To Know What Are The Needed Hop Up (kyosho Or 3rd Party) Available To Raise The Performance Of This Car!

My Current Setup Up
Kyosho Landmax 2 - Stock(come With The Kit)
Servo Ko2144 For St And Ko 2173 For Th

Pls Hlp And Thk Ahead. :)

Madaz

07-14-2004, 06:42 AM

Selling your car... with the new body already jimmy! :rolleyes:

Welcome kensung, If you are already wanting to get some hop-ups i would recommend getting some better shocks for your car since you say you are driving offroad you will see the benefits from some decent shocks. kyosho ones are quite expensive but if you are clever you could look around for some different brand shocks that will fit, for about half the price. :)

Another worthwhile improvement would be a good exhaust pipe. (will give a bit more power)

Also you should definately fit a throttle return spring to prevent a runaway car incase a radio fault causes loss of control.

good luck with your test drive.

Jimmy33

07-14-2004, 07:52 AM

i know disgraceful isnt it! Well 2 landmaxs 1 has to go and its the not so hoped up LM2 its a shame but its life! :( and i need the money :rolleyes:

Jimmy33

07-14-2004, 08:12 AM

as promised... some pics.....

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/777726/Carsforsale006.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/777726/Carsforsale007.jpg

Jimmy33

07-14-2004, 08:13 AM

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/777726/Carsforsale013.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/777726/Carsforsale010a.JPG

jeroen

07-14-2004, 12:44 PM

Nice looking body/wheels

l0freq

07-14-2004, 06:11 PM

with those stadium wheels and the raised height it looks like a doom machine out to destroy the paris-dakar! :)

cool man i want those wheels now :)

kensung

07-15-2004, 12:17 AM

Madaz, Thanks For Yr Advice, I Will Look For Some Better Shock.

I Can't Wait Till Weekend To Test The Landmax, I Hv Already Tested It Yesterday(hehehe!). Tested It In A Nearby Sandy Parking Lot. My Landmax Is Quite Unstable As It Spinned In High Speed Corner. Should I Increase My Front Stock Tension? Will Try Out Next Time.

But The Stock Engine Is Quite Above My Expectation, I Am Using 15% Nitro For Breaking In. I Was Running Quite Rich On High And Middle End. The Engine Started Easily And Nothing Wrong With The First 5 Tanks. One Thing I Don't Like Is The Sound Of The Stock Tune Pipe And The L Shape Coupler.

Thanks

Kenneth

Blaster

07-15-2004, 01:58 PM

Double posting.... :o

Blaster

07-15-2004, 02:03 PM

Jimmy33 - nice looking car!

l0freq - I have 4 new wheels and tyres to sell! What's your price? (I pay the EMS shipping...)

kensung - pics of your car?? The stock engine is a nice mill. Just get one if 1) you are willing for more power or 2) have to replace a worn stock engine (the price of a Kyosho GS .21 is way to high).

Blaster

07-15-2004, 02:04 PM

Tyres....

kensung

07-17-2004, 03:03 AM

Hi All,

Here is some picture for u guys :)

G:\DCIM\100OLYMP

obiwan

07-17-2004, 06:26 AM

Got a quick technical question..

I have the new hyper 8 port all bolted up and she runs fine. Only got 10 tanks thru it so far, But i am having trouble with my reciever i think?? the car has now 3 times screamed off uncontrolled into the distance. I have a failsafe fitted, batteries are new, transmitter is full voltage and servos are brand new also. it just pulls full throttle and goes flat out after i dab the trigger. the last one for around 15 seconds and travelled 100m plus.
until it hit a lump of wood head on at i guess 60/70kph..... oh, it broke nothing at all, just spun the brand new spur gear i fitted with the new clutch bell.

why does the failsafe not kill the throttle servo??? unsure if it still had power to the servos because the battery pack got thrown out of the car.

:confused:

Blaster

07-17-2004, 02:25 PM

obiwan - check if your connections to your receiver are firmly plugged. And check also if nothing metalic is touching your antenna (servo linkage, etc). I had same problem and found out that my "Y" connection was glitching...

have to ask: does it happens everywere or just in a specific place? Might be radio interference also....

obiwan

07-18-2004, 05:50 AM

heya. It happened in two different locations.. and all plugs are in tight, made sure when plugging in failsafe. I know what you mean about the metal, but nothing in the way, and to stay connected for 15seconds under full throttle????? strange. and the failsafe didn't work when she ran out of range either.....

It's an AM radio setup, if that makes any difference, used in an industrial area. massive sheds ( metal ) all round.

thnx

StevePond

07-18-2004, 08:20 AM

You usually have to set the failsafe. The default setting might tell your servo to go to full throttle instead of applying the brakes. Check the instructions to see what if any set-up is required and I think you'll find the answer to your problem.

The failsafe you have will not work if you lose radio signal - it's only to prevent the loss of control when the receiver battery voltage gets too low.

Only PCM-type FM and other more sophisticated radios can try stop a vehicle when radio signal is lost.

obiwan

07-19-2004, 04:12 AM

The failsafe fitted is setup correctly, and works well. it does apply the brakes when radio signal is lost also. I tried that and it works well.... drive off into the distance and when no signal, brakes come on.

dirtgypsy

07-19-2004, 05:20 PM

Hi guys, I hope someone here can help. I am looking for the lm2 2spd and tower says it is discontinued. I think I have found one on ebay but the part number listed by the seller is slightly different than the gtw020 listed on tower's and kyosho's web site.

here is a link to the auction:kyosho pc 2 speed (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=49213&item=5910248967&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V)

Will this work and is this a fair price??

Thanks for your help. DG

dirtgypsy

07-19-2004, 05:24 PM

sorry guys one other question.

which battery pack for the receiver. flat, brick or hump?

thanks again!

Call Me BOOCAKE

07-20-2004, 12:15 AM

that is the correct two speed for the LM2...the "V" means it is the one with the threaded clutchbell which allows you to change the gearing (with optional screw-on clutchbell gears as shown here (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products/car_bike/supereight_gp/landmax2/op_other/op_other-e.html))...i have dealt with jason (jr-rc) before with no problems btw, very nice guy...i would say that is a pretty fair price ($97 shipped) as tower was getting $115 for the plain jane GTW-20...

and a hump back will fit perfectly in the 7.5/LM2 radio box

l0freq

07-20-2004, 01:12 AM

perhaps a silly point but... surely if the battery pack flung loose from the car.... or even if the connections broke loose, the failsafe would be useless - there would be nothing to pull the throttle closed. so, faulty connection between your electrics and the battery pack perhaps?

fit a throttle return spring fit a throttle return spring fit a throttle return spring :)

Call Me BOOCAKE

07-20-2004, 01:42 AM

CORRECT...there is no substitute for that 99 cent spring as no failsafe in the world will function with no power

and i have to differ with stevep on the failsafe thing...in my experience any decent failsafe will respond to the LOSS of radio signal (ie: turn the radio off) by kicking into it's failsafe mode as that is what they are designed to do...but it is a different story with conflicting/multiple signals (say two standard AM or FM radios on the same channel) as the failsafe cannot tell which radio is the one it should be responding to...exception to that being PCM systems as steve mentioned, since the "Pulse Code Modulation" (which is sort of a digital "key" modulated into the analog signal being transmitted) lets the receiver know who to listen to...

anyhoo, long and short of it is that a spring is necessary and an electronic failsafe is a luxury..(which is why a spring is a requirement for any kind of sanctioned racing)

dirtgypsy

07-20-2004, 01:48 AM

hey boocake, thanks for the help i really appreciate it.

any ideas on where to pick up the optional clutch bells?? I can't seem to find them on towers web site.

Call Me BOOCAKE

07-20-2004, 02:13 AM

you're very welcome...

the GTW-20V wasn't/isn't sold here in the US, so tower doesn't carry that clutchbell or the screw-on gears (the downside of buying cool stuff direct from japan that we don't get here)...no biggie if you MUST have the two-speed, but i am bound by law to say that a good engine and a big single speed clutchbell (18-20T or so) is more practical/"cost-effective", especially if you intend to use it as a rally car (dirt and jumps etc)...and as far as speed i dunno why they insist on undergearing them so bad (14/17 bell with both versions of the GTW-20 i believe)...a 16/19 or 17/20 bell would be more like it, even with the stock engine...

Madaz

07-20-2004, 04:35 AM

Cool lancer body jimmy33, looks mean!

Kensung try posting the picture again i just saw a filepath.

Obiwan something else to check, make sure your throttle linkage or brake linkages are not catching on anything or are sticking at any point.

If you have a different Xtal set try them as i have had 2 sets of Xtals break (but usually this just caused twitchy servos)

Definalty fit a TRS before you run your car again ;)

Madaz

07-20-2004, 04:36 AM

Double post.. doh :eek:

obiwan

07-21-2004, 01:29 AM

thanks guys, btw, the battery pack came loose on impact with the wood. it was all fine untill it stopped in a hurry. can someone post a pic of a throttle return spring?? i have a spring on my throttle, and if I take my finger off the trigger, it pulls back to zero possie. is that the same.

O.K, i have a 130oz servo, to which there must have been power supplied, because when no power, she goes back to centre possie.. The car ran off under full throttle, aint no spring gonna pull back a 130oz with power supplied to it imo.

On another note, i left everything as it was when it stopped, connected the battery pack back up and because the transmitter was off, the servo pulled back to full brakes. so failsafe works still.

anyhoo, i got a new reciever and c how that goes.

thnx guys..

l0freq

07-21-2004, 05:32 AM

correct, if the servo has power, the spring will not be able to pull it closed 'against its will'. the idea is that, in a 'relaxed' state, the spring positively closes the throttle by pulling against the now 'slack' and 'relaxed' servo (which has gone slack and relaxed because power is gone! because batteries have come loose or dislodged!)

for those running a failsafe, and get runaways from interference, do something you wouldnt normally do - turn off your transmitter! if you put your money where the mouth of your failsafe is, the failsafe should stop being confused with the crossed signal, realise it has no communication with the reciever, and apply full (preset) brakes on your ride (until signal is restored). well, assuming you have that sorta failsafe. just speaking from experience. i used to run a failsafe thinking it would be the be all end all but "interference>total power loss" in the real world. plus, it was so picky with the battery voltage that, if the batts went below about 60% power (estimated) it would assume a low voltage situation and brake the car. really annoying. car would operate reliably for much longer without the failsafe. was too picky on voltage.

i have since reverted to a strong TRS and no failsafe and never looked back. cept to look at the curb i just slammed into with full radio control but unlucky drift control. hah 8)

blaster: thank you for the offer of the rims/tyres, they are tempting, but i will be converting my LM to 17mm hubs to take our custom buggy drift wheels so i wont need them!

OH! and remember how my Ofna Force .26 motor sheared its crank! and i posted pics. well i sent the motor to ofna and never heard back from them... i actually forgot all about it while building the 7th scale metal drift project car... until today! came home and heres this package waiting for me. only when i opened it did i realise what it was - my motor is back! without a word or letter or nothing, but it is all reassembled, NEW crank, new conrod, new bearing, new piston, and even new pullstarter as my old one melted on my exhaust header! im so stoked!!!

cant wait to fit this beast into my LM (the mighty wasp .26 is now powering the heavy metal 1/7th drift beast) and add drift wheels and enjoy more troublefree LM action! :) 3 cheers to Ofna! the LM lives again!!! :D :D :D

Blaster

07-21-2004, 04:31 PM

Hi Boocake - nice to have you back! Would you please PM me? I have a question related to RC but has nothing to do with this forum. :o

VoodooKiller

07-21-2004, 06:20 PM

Sorry I hanv't responded on how the rebuild of my car went, i've just been kind of busy.

It took quite of a bit of work, but I finally was able to put the car back together and now it screams! You can look at my past posts if you have no idea what I am talking about and see what I did to my Landmax2.

These are the following parts that I had to purchase to make the engine conversion work:
Engine: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ32&P=ML
Clutch/Clutch nut/baring: stock
Flywhee: (It works fine, but I but another may have been better): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU247&P=7
Engine mount:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVD24&P=ML
Engine Spacer: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVD25&P=ML
I also had a buy a 4 screws, don't remember them off-hand.

If you search towerhobbies for the engine you will find a pullstart version as well, while it may look like a good idea it will not fit because the exhaust 90deg pipe gets in the way. If you think the aftermarket one will work, it won't, sorry. Just do what I did and spend a little bit more money for a bump box.

I had to grind off part of the stubs on the flywheel and a number of threads on the engine to make it all fit. It was not hard at all with a dremal tool, just make sure if you ever have to do it, do it slowly and carefully. In the end the flywheel is rubbing slightly on the main gear but so little I am not worried about, and it isn't effecting anything, but that is also why I was thinking ther other MP-5 flywheel might work better. However for all I know it may not work at all. The stock exhaust mounts to the engine with the stock 90deg pipe, you do not need the aftermarket one as I was origionally told. I actually have only run it a couple of times past break in but the exhaust may not make an absolute perfect seal on the engine but its close enough that is dosn't matter in my opinion. The car accelerates to full speed far faster than it did before, and top speed has increased a little but is limited by the stock gearing.

I will post pictures later because at the moment I am sitting in an office (where I am having my internship in telecommunications) and having nothing t do...

Have fun with this and I hope this will be bennificial to somone in the future who may need/want to upgrade their engine. On the car I am running two high torque metalgear servos, very helpful, and I also have buggy wheels for off-roading as well. Though to make the buggy wheels fit I kinda mangled the body.

Evan

obiwan

07-22-2004, 01:23 AM

The first thing I did when she started to run away was kill the power on the transmitter.... and she kept on going, and going, and going.............

l0freq

07-22-2004, 06:50 PM

im guessing because no power (dislodged batteries) and no throttle return (to pull the relaxed servo closed) ...? :/

Z-tuner

07-23-2004, 02:20 AM

Hi, this is a body I've painted for the Landmax. This Kyosho bodies rocks, they are highly detailed, I just loved to paint it.

http://www.rctotal.com/cotxe/RCTOTAL/Fotos%20cotxe%202004-07-19/skyline3%20021p.jpg

http://www.rctotal.com/cotxe/RCTOTAL/Fotos%20cotxe%202004-07-19/skyline3%20022p.jpg

Call Me BOOCAKE

07-23-2004, 03:24 AM

i was admiring your work earlier in the paint folder and wondering what manufacturer (besides kyosho) actually included the headlight buckets with their r34 body...hehe

you did an incredible job there (and it doesn't hurt that the r34 body is probably my favorite)...very very well done and thanks for sharing the pics

jeroen

07-23-2004, 05:22 PM

WOW

That body looks WICKED too me :D

Very nice job done.
Will you use that body ?

Just as Boocake said before,those headlights are just looking like the real thing :cool:

Z-tuner

07-23-2004, 06:47 PM

I'll not use it, I did a terrible mistake due someone told me that this body will fit my offroad MP7.5, unfortunatelly the MP7.5 is wider than the Landmax, and now I have an expensive body that doesn't fit any of my cars, I'll try to sell it.

Madaz

07-24-2004, 07:23 PM

very nice paint job z-tuner, shame you cannot use it. Im sure u will sell it easily enough.

Voodoo, good to hear your engine upgrade is complete. there is always some little annoyances when you swap to a different motor, some are easier to solve than others, others you just learn to live with...(like a flywheel touching the brake rotor or whatever!) post a picture of your flywheel on the car maybe we can suggest a suitable flywheel or a solution. I had a flywheel similar to yours but i hated the too-thin outside knurled bit because it didnt grip my starterbox wheel and wore out too quickly. i got a Ofna one now and its a lot better.

fsbelem

07-26-2004, 10:53 AM

Hi guys,
back to this forum again
I've sold my lm1 3 months ago and now have just bought a lm2.
Here is a pic of it and another one with a body sold by blaster :D
Lancer evo VI body is to come....

http://planeta.terra.com.br/lazer/fred/kcbr/landmax/dia1.4.jpg
http://planeta.terra.com.br/lazer/fred/kcbr/landmax/dia1.8.jpg

dirtgypsy

07-26-2004, 11:48 AM

New landmax on the way. After lurking here for the past 2 yrs I have finally got the funds to purchase an lm2. should be here in a week or so! can't wait to get my hands on it.

can someone tell me the length of the front and rear shocks as it looks like this seems to be the first needed upgrade. overall and eye to eye would be great! any help is appreciated!

man that body is wicked!! The color is fantastic. very nice work. shoot me an email as I might be interested. hardemanac@hotmail

evader32

07-26-2004, 12:05 PM

are there any bodies that will fit it that are not from kyosho?

Blaster

07-26-2004, 03:23 PM

This forum really moves fast!

dirtgypsy - nice that you bought your LM. And yes, before go to a 2 speed, you might consider change the shocks.

evader32 - Madaz and L0freq had success using Parma bodies. Take a look on Landmax Forum v2.0

VoodooKiller - nice to know that your LM is RTR!! Pics please....

fsbelem - your car was really well tunned. I want to see some action pics! Maybe we can make a rally race one day? :D

Z-tuner - as Boocake I am a lexan addicted and a R34 fan. Your painting looks way too cool. Put it on e-bay and it will sell like hot bread.

obiwan

07-28-2004, 02:38 AM

a pic of the GTR body. Note, the body is attached, with no posts :)

obiwan

07-28-2004, 02:42 AM

another....

Madaz

07-29-2004, 02:15 AM

2 new skyline bodies on the same page... yeah :) nice one obiwan thats a mint looking R34 also. Hows the body attached? velcro?

Evader32 i have a duratrax nitrodemon body on my lm and lofreq and lee have parma chevy lumina bodies on theirs. If you look on page ..... http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135712&page=42&pp=25 there are some pics and also a few pages previous 41, 40 etc you will find the links to the bodies on towerhobbies and more pics. As far as i know these are the best fit "non kyosho" bodies. We mainly chose these bodies for the low price, there must be other shells out there that will fit. You just have to look around.

dirtgypsy, i only have lm1 shocks, but i also have the upgrade blue shocks so ill give u both measurements from eye to eye fully extended....

Standard _____ Rear: 105mm ______ Front: 78mm

Upgrade ______ Rear: 112mm ______ Front: 92mm

The overall length is approx 9mm longer than these measurements. I reckon lm2 shocks should be about the same size, you should find out soon when yours arrives :) hope this is of some help.

Fsbelem what happened to your pics?? i never saw them. :eek:

fsbelem

07-29-2004, 09:52 AM

Madaz I didn't know what happened, I think my server has some problems. :confused:
Let me try in another server
here goes

http://www.rcworld.com.br/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/dia1.8.jpg

http://www.rcworld.com.br/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/dia1.4.jpg

jeroen

07-29-2004, 03:37 PM

fsbelem:

Nice LM 2 you got there.
The body I've seen before.

that exhaust is hanging weird.(the black coupler is for the airfilter and the white one for the exhaust/header) not that it will help the exhaust hanging good/lower

Obiwan:

That body does look pretty neat.

SixVi6-Camaro

07-29-2004, 06:50 PM

FYI.. the LM2 uses the same length shocks front and rear.

Man some good looking LM's here. I'm working on parts and hop ups for mine now for a complete teardown and rebuild.

obiwan

07-29-2004, 10:35 PM

thnx, yeah, went the velcro option... just cut the posts down, glued the little plastic disc with some loctite and velcro under front an rear...

I want a red one now.. wit a black bonnet.( hood! )

For cooling, i'm thinking of a sunroof???? and ideas/opinions on that one? should nearly place the hole just in front of the head..

geoff rodger

07-31-2004, 07:23 PM

HI guys just wondering what engines you run for heaps of top end with a 2 speed, at the moment I run a 8 port race but i,ll like a bit more guts
Has anyone try a picco 26 say with maybe the tallest gearing (15,19 pinons)
or is it likly to blow a 2speed apart plus strip spur gears. Also I can get hold of Os engines cheap ,what the most powerfull .21 maybe with a pullstart.
look foward for any comments
love my lm2

l0freq

08-01-2004, 06:49 AM

some mint LM skylines on this page! well done :)

fsbelem: yeah its odd how you have the exhaust coupling and the air filter coupling round the wrong way? there may not be any difference aside from the black air filter coupling being physically longer, and the white silicone coupling might actually be more heat resistant than the black one and so might endure exhaust abuse better? might be wise to swap em over now before you get probs later (hoepfully not)

geoff: i run a team orion wasp .26 in my "1/7th" car and it definitely has some major guts, its supposed to rev into the high 38k rpms i dunno if thats as high as youre looking for or not. in a little LM i think it would be insane, i ran mine in my LM for a few months and it was totally overpowered, however thats how i like to drive (sideways) so it was perfect :)

dont mean to jack the thread but if anyone wants to waste 5.7mb and some time, here is a little snippet of today's 7th scale bashing we did (me and lee's large metal body cars) tons more raw footage but its hard to edit and upload and be interesting. anyway, hope you like it :)

http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/RC%20Stuff/040801%20-%20ET%20drift%20test%20sample.wmv (rightclick saveas, 5.7mb WMV file)

obiwan

08-02-2004, 05:46 AM

does anyone have a roto starter on there engine, whatever it may be in a lm1 or 2??

I am thinking of doing a HPI conversion on mine?? anyone?..

obiwan

08-02-2004, 08:44 AM

hyper 8 port that is...

http://www.zonecentral.org/ofnamod/

my only issue is access thru the rear suspension for the roto shaft.

dirtgypsy

08-04-2004, 02:40 AM

Well guys I got the car built and you were right about 2 things. one, this thing is awesome! I am impressed at how well everything went together. very easy biuld. I have yet to run it as i got a sweet deal on an nib hyper 21 8 port for $100 and sold the old gs21r for the same price! should have all the parts ordered and here in a week or so. 2nd thing is the shocks are crud. Didn't even get them on the car before they leaked!

I was digging around and found a used lm1 on ebay that has aluminum shocks and new wheels and rally tires. just wondering if anyone might be interested in the rest of the car for parts? The seller said everything was in good shape with no broken parts but I really don't have a need for anything but the shocks and tires. looks to be a new painted escort body as well. before I buy let me know. I am an honest guy and have plenty of feedback here, on ebay, and on ****.

Great looking gtr's on this page. Hopefully I can get some pics up of mine in the next few weeks. Can't wait to get it going!

hardemanac@hotmail just add .com at the end if you are interested in the parts car! Thanks, dg

hooppjs

08-04-2004, 12:19 PM

Your Skyline GTRS look wicked. I just had to throw a spanner MAX in the works, and include the mighty Volvo. Setup with rear can, way tooooooooo wide rear tyres and 2 speed.

B00CAKE4U

08-05-2004, 01:35 AM

looks good peter, what rims be those?

gypsy, keep in mind the LM1 uses the long shocks in the rear and the shorts up front (versus shorts all around for the LM2)...best bet might be to just pick up two sets of the front shocks from one of the many people parting out 7.5s on ebay (and that purple escort body looks kinda tacky anyway i think..hehe)...good luck selling the plastic shocks, i got quite a few sets now that i doubt i could give away...should make them into a stylish necklace or something

lo, your 1:7 movie is pure art...looks like major fun and the ending made me ELL OH ELL

dirtgypsy

08-05-2004, 01:44 AM

hey boocake, good point on the body but it might be good for bashing. just a thought. I am not sure the 7.5 shocks will work as I have a set of the ofna 9.5 front buggy shocks on my maxx and they are way too long. any ideas on if the lm1 rear shocks will work on a lm2?? I am sure they are too long though. just courious. thanks for any help! dg

mundenbk

08-05-2004, 03:50 AM

I know this has been discussed in the past but didn't see any firm info.

What bodies will fit the LM2?

So far I have seen the Kyoshos (of course) and the Nitro Demon, but what about ofna and any others out there?

Also, are you guys buying the carbon fibre or making it from scratch. If making it what are you using to cut it?

Does anybody have any info / source for buying the older Kyosho bodies. Tower Hobbies is kinda limited on them.

Thanks

Brian

hooppjs

08-05-2004, 04:06 AM

Hi Boocake4u,
I'm sorry, but I do not know what rims they are. I purchased them off ebay OZ doing a search on 19mm hex. Luckily they fit with a few mods. They are hard rubber and very low profile, no foams. I think they were meant for 1/8 on-road race cars.

obiwan

08-05-2004, 08:50 AM

noice ovlov there hoop.

got my roto start and associated bitz and pieces today ( fibre brakes, fuel filter, battery/reciever box etc), got the one that fits the Force engines and will mod to fit. looks like it'll be o.k. no more blood blisters from the hyper 8, yay..

hooppjs

08-05-2004, 10:37 AM

Thanks obiwan, rare find in OZ the Vol. Some night driving Nissan pics...

hooppjs

08-05-2004, 10:48 AM

Pride and Glory of the LM1 fleet.

hooppjs

08-05-2004, 11:10 AM

Underneath the GTR. Force 8 Port, boost, 2 speed. Landmax fans should be able to spot the home work thrown in there to avoid cost. Don't know why I built it, except I could. It is near uncontrollable.

hooppjs

08-05-2004, 11:20 AM

Another GTR, crikey!!!

hooppjs

08-05-2004, 11:32 AM

The Delta 8 GTR...Madness.

hooppjs

08-05-2004, 11:45 AM

GTR forward view.

hooppjs

08-05-2004, 12:15 PM

When I first started LANDMAXING back in the anchient 90's, I used to use these silly, 'KYOSHO' supplied brake discs. They were fine with the GS mil, but with the 8, they were disintergrated. This pic is after the religious break in of the Delta8 after 1st tank.
More pics at:
http://www.landmax@bigpondhosting.com

obiwan

08-06-2004, 04:29 AM

gimmie a lil bit an i'll show u some good ole OZ money saving lol... u should see my engine mounts...

obiwan

08-06-2004, 08:01 AM

Roto Modded to fit....

obiwan

08-06-2004, 08:08 AM

Who said u can't use MP-7.5 mounts on a LM1??? check the solid block of ally i "shaped" to fit the hyper and mount combo.... worked well. Cut an 'L' out an dropped the mountig lock nut to let the Roto fit, hey presto....

I had to 'relieve' some of the exhaust housing and the top of the roto to make it all snug, damn tight fit tho...

Roto is a Ofna for the Force engine. got some stainless steel shim material to make the hex bigger and fit the gear on the roto.

obiwan

08-06-2004, 08:10 AM

My tower supplied 'MP-6' Brakes- Heavy Duty'

dirtgypsy

08-06-2004, 02:47 PM

Has anyone here dyed their wheels? I was wondering if the plastic is the type that can be dyed before I go out and buy the dye to do it. Thanks!

Madaz

08-06-2004, 05:34 PM

I tried to dye my green inferno wheels black but it just gave them a slight black tint and they still look green!!!
i used fabric dye from the supermarket. I boiled some water put the dye in and soaked them for about 2 hours, probly i did it wrong. ive been told it can be done so if u have any success let me know how!!!

Good job on the roto start. if i didnt have a starterbox i would definatly try one of them on my hyper engine. :D :rolleyes: :o :( :eek:

dirtgypsy

08-06-2004, 11:38 PM

madaz, they are in the dye as I write this. I will follow up later if all goes well...or not:)

dirtgypsy

08-07-2004, 01:38 AM

The dye works great! Here's the trick: 3 packages of rit dye (powder), small pan, put the dye in and just enough water (hot tap) to cover the wheels, make sure to blend all the powder as it tends to clump, put in the wheels and let it sit on the stove (low heat) and stir ocassionally for about two hours. I wish I had a digi cam to post some pics but it will have to wait till early next week to do so. The wheeels have almost an anodized black look to them. Pretty cool!. Anyhow just had to share. Now I still have to wait for the rest of the parts to come in! doh!

The roto start trick looks great. Any clearance issues with the header?

obiwan

08-07-2004, 03:02 AM

clearance on the header was very tight and had to grind off some with a grinding stone, then a file to get it right. u can see the top of the roto is 'fury' because i had to grind some of that off too.

to hold the bottom of the roto firm, i am just going to put a couple of exhaust springs on it, that should hold it well enuf.

starter box isn't an option with hyper in a LM1. flywheel too high, and a bigger flywheel would burn my centre diff to a molten mess. I have 1mm clearance as it is.

oh yeah, pics are from my sharp GX30 phone, not too shabby. easier than getin the real digi out........

hooppjs

08-09-2004, 01:09 AM

Delta Force.

hooppjs

08-09-2004, 01:20 AM

2 speed, rear exhaust Landmax 1 with LM2 cooling head.

dirtgypsy

08-10-2004, 02:13 AM

Great looking lm's hooppjs. How's the rear exhaust? Any problems or issues with performance gains or losses? I would like to do a similar set up on mine but the only rear dual exhaust I can find right now is off of the xtm and the sellers on ebay want close to $40 for the set up. For another $10 I could get a really nice ofna, ths, or rd logics. For now I just have the standard ofna tuned pipe but I hate to cut holes in the side of this great looking and spendy body.

mook

08-10-2004, 04:55 PM

:)just ordered an lm2 from tower. expecting it in 10 to 30 days :(

cant wait.

mook

dirtgypsy

08-11-2004, 01:19 AM

hey congrats on your purchace mook! I am happy with mine so far (have yet to run it) just waiting for parts! Why the long wait from tower?? I had mine in 4 days!

mook

08-11-2004, 04:36 PM

cheers dirtgypsy and thx for the welcome. I live in the UK and tower offers a $30 delivery or a $66 delivery. The $30 takes upto six weeks. screw that! So i went $66 which takes between 10 to 30 days. Bummer. Oh well, it should be like christmas when it does arrive.

Is anyone else finding it really hard to access this thread?

good luck with your lm dirtgypsy

mook

dirtgypsy

08-12-2004, 12:05 AM

That's a bummer mook. Hope it will be more like 10 days than 30!!

Got a question for you guys. I bought some machined motor mounts from ebay for the 7.5 but they don't seem to line up on any of the holes. They do line up further back but the holes aren't made for motor mounts. Is there another peice that I need to purchase to mount to the chassis then to the mounts?? I hope I am describing this ok as it will be late tomorrow till I can post pics. Any help is greatly appreciated.

dirtgypsy

08-12-2004, 12:11 AM

never mind I did some digging and found that I didn't get the engine mount spacers I needed. Hopefully the hobby shop has them or I will be out for another week. Doh!

mook

08-12-2004, 09:09 AM

Tower just sent me an email saying that my lm has been shipped. for $66 it better get here quick.still the lm with shipping was £255.In the UK most hobby stores retail the lm at around £350,so im still quids in.

When it rains it dont half pour. I had some cash set aside for a .21 CMb raptor and RB tuned pipe.Alas as i sit here, water is dripping through the ceiling. ching ching

mook

mook

08-12-2004, 05:34 PM

ps

im a huge cosworth fan, does anyone know if its still possible to get the escort cossie shell?

RS Cosworth WRC: 39766

Kyosho list this part as discontinued

mook

B00CAKE4U

08-13-2004, 12:03 AM

the escort body is still listed as in stock at tower (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=39766&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go) (oooh, more waiting! hehe)

hooppjs

08-13-2004, 10:56 AM

Hi dirtgypsy,
Removed x2 rubber orange baffles from rear exhaust. Very LOUD, no performance gain. Did it for looks and loudness factor. Heard it was loud WAY..........BACK in the 90s when it came out stock with the Esprit model.
I will keep me eyes open for FORD Cosworth shells.

mook

08-13-2004, 05:09 PM

many thanks for the tip boocake.

Im going to order a 'Futaba Attack' two channel radio which comes with two s3003 servos.I'll get a high torque servo in the future. Looking for a sensibly priced twin stick system is like pulling teeth.

mook

dirtgypsy

08-16-2004, 02:31 AM

hey mook, why a twin stick?? You can pick up a nice JR xs3/ xr3 with 2 servo's, 3 channels, 3-6 model memory etc...servo's are one standard one with 85 oz of torque all for a great price. it would be the last radio you would need to buy for ground use.

mook

08-16-2004, 10:43 AM

i grew up with stick radios dirtgypsy and prefer them to pistol jobs. Thing is most two stick radios i have seen look pretty basic. I have checked out JR, but they all seem to be for aircraft and not for surface use. I also have to buy my radio system in the UK due to different frequencies? and different operating voltages for the chargers etc. Prices here are silly.one company in the uk wants $840 for a landmax2. bonkers.

going to order the following

Futaba
Futaba Attack 2ER 40AM Transmitter

Futaba
Futaba R122JE AM40

Teamline
Failsafe Unit (Intelligent)

Futaba
Futaba 3001 Ballraced Standard

Bluebird
Super Speed Metal Gear Servo

Hows this servo?is up to the job

Specification

Metal Gears
Dual Ballraces
6.2kg-cm (6v)
0.08sec/60 (6v)

mook

dirtgypsy

08-17-2004, 02:07 AM

Ah, I see. Looks like a pretty nice set up. I have used Futaba products in the past and they have really great stuff. As for the servo the speed looks great but what does the 6.2kg's work out to in oz's?? Sorry but us USA folks are a bit off when it comes to kg's vs. oz's!!

mook

08-17-2004, 09:28 AM

cheers dirt gypsy. the reciever and tx are the weekest links,but i will probably upgrade in the future when funds allow. I quite fancy getting a tx and rx with programable throttle curves for when i add a big hp motor

6.2kg translates into 229.28 oz.

next on the hit list is a two speed tranny.

hows your build doing dirtygypsy have you got it up and running yet?

mook

dirtgypsy

08-17-2004, 01:01 PM

Holy shiz Mook, 229 oz's!!! Do you have a link to the web site where you can get one of these?? I have heard of 1/4 scale servo's having that much torque but not standard.

The build went really well. Got it all painted and most of the parts installed and ready to go. Just waiting on a steering servo then I will need to figure something out for all of the linkages. Not real fond of the "Z" wire stuff so I am trying to get some regular turnbuckles to finish it up. I hate to half a$$ a project and have something go wrong..

I was hoping to have it going by this weekend but with work and the Fire dept most of my time is used up till Sunday. So there is a little bit of hope.

On a side note I found a seller on Ebay selling Medial Prp Tarmac II's. Here is a link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5913668998&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

mook

08-17-2004, 01:55 PM

The first two servos are the high torque bluebird jobs.

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=Category&CategoryID=201035

I went for the BMS631MG servo as its only a fiver more than the other one but has much better specs. I have feeling that this servo could be oversize.I should be getting this servo on friday, so i'll be able to tell you if its 'standard size'

i've read that the Z bend linkage is a bit shoddy too and it will be my first mod.

Those tatmac 11's look the business. I have been trying to get a sensible reply from meganitro re these wheels. They seem to think scotland is Ireland and just dont answer my questions!

works a distinct bummer

anyways, the days are passing mighty slow here and delivery seems as far away as ever. tick tock

mook

mook

08-18-2004, 05:42 AM

got my radio gear through the post today. futaba has certainly gone down hill. The rx looks like something out of a tyco toy.The attack tx looks like a radio shack special.

I have the bluebird servo, and i mucked up the specs. 6.2kg does convert to 229oz but bluebird list the torque as 86 oz at 6v. bummer. Another gripe is that bluebird have not used a grommet to seal the cable where it enters the servo (unlike futaba). I dont know if it would or could fail, but it is certainly not a good thing.

mook

SixVi6-Camaro

08-21-2004, 10:56 AM

after a few months of my LM2 collecting dust (I've been racing my JT Hybrid Supermaxx) I finally cleaned up and made some changes to my LM2. I put a wing fom a Mugen X5 onto it and replaced several parts and I have more stuff in the works. hehe.. but here's how it sits now and I ahve to say that buggy wing made a HUGE difference in handling at speed. It really sticks to the road and is very controlable.

With the hammered Alfa body.
http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/lmaxx_64.jpg

Body off..
http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/lmaxx_62.jpg

With the Suby body (http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/lmaxx_63.jpg)

rear shot with the suby body. (http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/lmaxx_61.jpg)

mook

08-21-2004, 01:58 PM

nice.
I got my landmax yesterday but also got stung for for £80 of import taxes.

The build is going well,however i have two questions

a) The steering assembly feels very very stiff. is this normal or have I messed up somewhere?
b) The gear mesh between the engine and centre diff looks very far apart. I used a piece of paper as the instructions say, but it looks too far apart. Is that normal?

cheers

mook

Madaz

08-21-2004, 04:35 PM

john that alfa is still looking classy even with some battle scars ;) It would be cool if kyosho brought out an optional wing designed just for the lmx, using a buggy mount but a smaller spoiler to suit a car body.

mook I would check over all your steering links because it shouldnt be stiff. remove the linkages and check the steering hubs and the steering bellcrank assembely, maybe u forgot a washer or something trivial yet vital at the same time. maybe one of your ball-end tie rods is too tight!

The way i check my mesh on my spur is by putting my finger on the clutchbell to hold it still then just move the spur gear back and forth a little. You should feel a little backlash in the teeth, If the clutch is too tight on the spur you wont feel any movement and if there is alot of backlash in the teeth the clutch is too far from the spur. (that paper trick has never worked for me)

Import taxes!!!! Grrrr :mad: damn customs, Still i bet it was cheaper than buying your lmx from the UK? :cool:

Madaz

08-21-2004, 04:49 PM

A photo from a few months ago of my brothers car ... LM1 rally subaru (http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~alx/pics/lmsubaru001.jpg)

mook

08-21-2004, 06:47 PM

I'd read that the shockers where bad... but THIS bad. One of my shockers just dumped oil over my new cream jeans and the other shockers feel as if they have concrete for oil.grrrrr damm kyosho accountants. Monday morning i am ordering those teflon jobs. Thanks for the tip madaz, the steering assembly is not bad but it aint good either. Im going to rebuild just to make sure though. I think i will raid my lhs on monday and get them to check out the mesh as i dont fancy a stripped gear on my first day out.

Well thats the build almost over.Now all i need to do is sort the shell out.

mook

ps nice pic!

SixVi6-Camaro

08-21-2004, 09:02 PM

Recheck the steering. It should be pretty smooth. Heck I'm still running the original steering. I just have to dissasemble it and celan it out once in a while and it stays smooth. Those stock shocks are junk I ended up drilling small holes into the pistons to make them useable. Kyosho's recomended piston for those shocks is wayyyyyyy to stiff.

I agree it would be cool if they had smaller wings for to mount on the Landmax but this setup works very well although it looks oversized for the body.

I radared my LM2 today.. I hit 46 in one lot but it was short and has a sweeping turn to deal with with a cheapo radar gun but... later I ran it again in a different lot with a cop radaring it and hit 54 mph on 3 seperate passes. That with 17/44 gearing and a ported OPS .21 On Road engine Serious RPM in that bad boy!! Hehe by buddies LM2 with a hyper 8 port and 2 speed could only muster a 42 mph run once and 2 41 mph runs with the 16/43 2nd gear.

SixVi6-Camaro

08-22-2004, 09:34 PM

hehe took a couple more pics of my LM2 with my JT Hybrid Supermaxx..

http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/lmaxx_65.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/lmaxx_66.jpg

mook

08-23-2004, 03:10 PM

is it ok to use cheap engine oil in my shocks till i get the new uprated shockers in a few weeks time?

Madaz

08-24-2004, 04:15 AM

Now i know what a JT Hybrid Supermaxx looks like!! (i was wondering) i know nothing about RC trucks :) 54mph is pretty rapid. Try it without the buggy spoiler i reckon you'd get a few more mph out of it.. but it might just take off!! lol

mook you might as well try the engine oil but i think it could be too thick. Try what Vi6camaro suggests and drill some holes in the pistons first. When youve done your bodyshell make sure u post a picture we all love to drool over new landmax's :p

SixVi6-Camaro

08-24-2004, 11:06 AM

lol.. yeah the JT Supermaxx started life as a Pro .15 tmaxx 5 years ago. Its not quite the same anymore.

I tried the top speed runs before when I first put the OPS on road engine on there without the buggy wing and it would get soo loose at higher speeds it was impossible to handle. Now that it sticks I can't believe the powerband of this engine. its simply explosive and abrupt when you hit the throttle and really has some serious RPM.

yeah it will work but it will be thick. deffinetely drill 1 or 2 small holes in the pistons or take a knife and notch the side of the piston until the shock feels like it has decent movment.

mook

08-24-2004, 03:12 PM

Thats the car now finished. im just waiting for the fuel and a crystal set to arrive.The reason i asked about engine oil,is because all of my shockers are leaking, and i have run out of damper fluid. They are total garbage. Without oil in the dampers my car feels as if its sprung via rubber bands. without doubt this was the biggest let down during the build. I'll try modifying the piston,but i reckon i will just upgrade and bin the standard ones

I'll get some photos up soon

mook

mook

08-25-2004, 04:02 PM

I have just established that it is near on impossible to use super glue to bond tyres to wheels. What kind of glue should i be using? Also any tips for getting a superglued tyre of a wheel
mook

dirtgypsy

08-26-2004, 12:45 AM

Hey mook, I have been using a black CA glue from my local hobby shop with very good results. As far as getting super glue off of tires I have heard that boiling them will help or it seems to me that I recall hearing of something that super glue makes that will take it off. I hope this helps. Good luck and let us know if you come up with anything!

mook

08-26-2004, 11:47 AM

hi dirtgypsy.

The tyre was a gonner.I tried boiling it and microwaving but all was lost. Landmax tyre meet Mr Scalpel. I cut the tyre off (it was dead due to being stretched)and spent a few hours trying to cut the rubber out of the rim. The wheel is now dead to.So i have ordered two new 15 spoke wheels and tyres.I also asked about kyosho 'Turbo Big shock' dampers and was qouted £45 a pair. 'No chance' i said.The bloke at the model shop agreed and is sending me some super tiger shocks and oil at £15 a pair

Im going to get some expoxy resin that takes hours dry.That way i wont wind up paying out more money for wheels and tyres. This hobby is getting dammed expensive

I also got the engine started yesterday.What a buzz.(no pun intended)

mook.

obiwan

08-28-2004, 07:09 PM

to glue ur tyres, i used loctite. u put the tyre around the rim, but not in the groove, on the outside of it. then u glue all round the tyre and once that is done, pop it in the groove. or put it in the groove, and just leaver out a bit at a time with a small jewellers screwdriver, gluing as u go.

to remove superglue from anything, use nail polish remover..... the good **** that stinks or just some acetone from ur chemist......

oh, to get permanent marker off of a white board, go over it with a whiteboard marker..
hehe..

mook

08-29-2004, 12:21 PM

Hi obiwan

Fitted the thunder tiger shocks and they look and work a treat. Much better than the standard kyosho shockers, especially as they dont leak.

I poured supeglue into the rims then tried to mount the tyre.All that got stuck was my fingers . The problem was that glue bonded on contact. I did try what you said earlier this week, but the tyre was not gluing true. I have used a slow dry glue with nill problems

Heres some pics as promised. sorry for the crap pic quality, the photos where taken by my mobile phone

Also, im looking at fitting a two speed tanny (GTW20).Someone here had a three speed box. Anyone got info on the three speed. Also what happens to the centre diff when you fit the trans.

cheers

mook

http://photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/th_040825022.jpg

mook

08-29-2004, 12:23 PM

http://photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/th_040825032.jpg

http://photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/th_04082904.jpg

mook

08-29-2004, 12:26 PM

http://photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/th_040825002.jpg

dirtgypsy

08-29-2004, 06:11 PM

nice looking ride mook. the blue subaru body looks the shiz. sorry to hear about your tire probs. could you post some info on the thunder tiger shocks? looks like this might be a viable alternative to the kyosho burns option for future landmaxers.

dirtgypsy

08-29-2004, 11:58 PM

Here is a pic of my landmax2. I have yet to run it but am working on getting all the right parts for it before I do.

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421548709/0.jpg

Specs: lm2, ofna hyper.21 8 port, 18 tooth bell, burns aluminum shocks, jr z590 throttle brake, jr z650 steering, reedy 1200 mah rx pack, hitec hfs 04mg receiver, silver paint with stock wheels (dyed black) and tires.

mook

08-30-2004, 09:08 AM

That looks the business dirtgypsy and it should go like stink with the ofna motor. Heres the specs for the shocks

http://photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/th_04082800.jpg

http://photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/th_040830011.jpg

Thunder Tiger #PD0561
FR SHOCK SET,EB S1/S2

Used for both front and rear. They where purchased @

http://www.modelsport.co.uk

You could probably get them cheaper in the states

regards

mook

mook

09-07-2004, 06:08 PM

I seem to be speaking to myself lol. anyways a few more questions

Anti roll bars.Kyosho does not list these as an option for the lm2. anyone got any info.

Diff oil. Anyone got any suggestions for diff oil for on road use

Three speed. Would a three speed from a mad force fit an LM2? The lm 2 two speed part number is GTW20- is this same part number for the LM1?

http://www.three5models.co.uk/images/kyosho/Kyosho/Trucks/Mad%20force/trans.jpg

cheers

B00CAKE4U

09-07-2004, 08:15 PM

dirtgypsy, your LM2 looks great...hurry up and run that thang! hehe...all of your cars look sweet, mine is in a box... *eyes box*

mook, the two speed for the LM1 is GT-30....the mad force 3 speed pictured there is the LM2's GTW-20 with the addition of the third gear (and related parts)...it COULD fit in an LM2 (the length of the unit is the problem) but it is definitely not a direct fit...and to answer your previous question, the multi-speed transmissions all replace the center diff with a steel shaft ie: diff action front to rear is lost

the anti-roll bars for the LM2 are the same as those used for the 7.5, IFW104 for the front and IF117 for the rear...as far as diff oil, 5k-7k-1k cps front to rear is probably a good general starting point

and as regards shocks, any of the following kyosho front shocks are perfect for the LM2...those of most any other manufacturer will work (just need to make sure they use 3mm hardware at each end) but you can generally get a full set of genuine kyosho fronts quite cheap from ebay from those parting out 7.5s

KYOC5733 BSW-27 Front shocks, "Large Volume Shock", brownish aluminum
KYOC6276 BSW-72 Front shocks, "Turbo Big Shock", blue aluminum
KYOC6024 IFW-30 Front shocks, "Big Pressure Shock", teflon-coated silver aluminum
KYOC3805 IFW-140 Front shocks with 3.5mm shaft from Kanai2/3

SixVi6-Camaro

09-08-2004, 05:06 PM

I got my hands on a mad force 3 speed and looked into it for a time but you would have to dirll holes in the chassis for the front center diff support then either custom cut and weld the front driveshaft or look around until you find something that is the right length (I didn't look to hard). Also the 3 speed clutch bell is soo long you will have to either move the fuel tank to a completely new location or mount a small tank from another RC. It would be a good deal of work but make for one stupid fast LM2 with the 14t/17t/20t clutchbell the mad force uses. I would have attmepted it but I did not want to hack up the $80 JT racing chassis I run on my LM2 and I'm happy running high end engines with large single speed 17t or 18t clutchbells. Currently I'm probably going to drop a NovaRossi Top .28 into the Landmax to replace the OPS .21 On Road engine I have now. I'm running the .28 on my hybrid Maxx and love it.

B00CAKE4U

09-11-2004, 11:46 PM

(reply to mook's post from the mad force thread, figured i would reply to it here)

hi.

I have a landmax 2 which is based on the inferno 7.5 chassis. I want to try and fit the three speed from the madforce / mad armour into my car. Alas i need a part number for the three speed transmisson -can anyone sort me out?

Also how long is the three speed?

many thanks

mook

various part numbers listed below, if you were to order it all from tower the total would be ~$150USD...best bet is ebay as always (i recommend dan lamson aka "lamsonaudio" who sells the complete setup for about $75)

KYOC4276 MA005 Three speed center shaft (6mm diameter, will need to be shortened)
KYOC4277 MA006 Second gear shift mechanism
KYOC4278 MA007 Third gear shift mechanism
KYOC4279 MA008 Third gear spur (40T)
KYOC2967 MA011 Three speed clutch bell (14/17/20T)
KYOC4130 GTW20-02 First and second gear spurs (46/43T)
KYOC4690 GT-26 One-way bearing (washer included)
KYOC4320 GT-22 Drive cups, 2 speed (2) 2 5x4mm setscrews included
KYOC2231 GT-23Z Bearing collars, 2 speed (to support 6mm shaft in 8mm bearings)

(other misc crap you might find useful)

KYOC4727 GT-20 Pilot shaft, for threaded crank engines
KYOC6607 MAW008 Clutch bell guide, for SG/pilotshaft engines
6 5x8mm ball bearings (for clutchbell)
3 6x12mm ball bearings (to replace supplied bronze bushings)
2 8x16mm ball bearings (to support entire transmission assembly)
1 10x15mm ball bearing (supports third gear)