Inferno MP777 [Archive] - Page 10

JamminJay

01-03-2006, 08:57 PM

Hey Jay,
The SP-1 will work great on an indoor track. The dirt is usually better quality and taken care of which gives better traction. I like my SP-1 too, but the SP-2 hooked up much better on my track which is an Outdoor track that gets real bumpy and loose top layer. The top layer was the culprit of the rear end issues on the SP-1. But when I got the SP-2 I noticed more control and it helped with the rear end. What it did was slow it down so it would not come around as hard and loose control. That's the difference. The SP-1 might be a better indoor setup with the quicker handling!

Well thanx for raining on my parade thinking I had finally set-up a very quality top notch buggy, vs all the others I owned....hahahahaha j/k. I was just very pleased with it's performance. I didn't expect that at all. I mean it drove like a dream in my backyard, and I knew the engine screamed, but for it to perform the way that it did on another track, versus other cars, and I had others drive it, that all said the same thing.... made me go home smiling. :)

J_Bone

01-03-2006, 09:12 PM

Well thanx for raining on my parade thinking I had finally set-up a very quality top notch buggy, vs all the others I owned....hahahahaha j/k. I was just very pleased with it's performance. I didn't expect that at all. I mean it drove like a dream in my backyard, and I knew the engine screamed, but for it to perform the way that it did on another track, versus other cars, and I had others drive it, that all said the same thing.... made me go home smiling. :)
That's sweet!! Then don't change it!
I race against a guy who has a SP-1 and we are the top two every race except this weekend which I ended up 4th while he got 2nd. His is dialed in and suites him perfect while I was searching for a better setup and didn't find it till the main. I adjusted my rear camber link location and was a learning curve, but was better for the rutted up track. It changed through out the night.

ALJR

01-04-2006, 12:29 AM

You guys have an indoor track that you can run nitro vehicles on?

J_Bone

01-04-2006, 12:32 AM

I don't... :(
They only let us run Flash Lights indoors..

JamminJay

01-04-2006, 02:20 AM

You guys have an indoor track that you can run nitro vehicles on?

Yes ALJR, my local track is an indoor offroad track that runs nitro and elec. obviously. It's not that big of a track, I think they said it's within a 120'x80' and they change it every month or so. I'll post links to some pics.

BTW ALJR.. thanks for being a good sport and not trying to get me banned on those fast tires.... it was all about havin fun, I honestly wasn't trying to hijack your thread or sales...but when I saw that guy only wanted one set, and since thats all i had.... I thought it would save you from splitting up your package. I didn't mean any harm. ;)

http://images.snapfish.com/3457732723232%7Ffp337%3Enu%3D323%3B%3E735%3E949%3E WSNRCG%3D323338%3B497854nu0mrj
http://images.snapfish.com/3457732723232%7Ffp337%3Enu%3D323%3B%3E735%3E949%3E WSNRCG%3D323338%3B49833%3Anu0mrj
http://images.snapfish.com/3457732723232%7Ffp338%3Enu%3D323%3B%3E735%3E949%3E WSNRCG%3D323338%3B49833%3Cnu0mrj
http://images.snapfish.com/3457732723232%7Ffp337%3Enu%3D323%3B%3E735%3E949%3E WSNRCG%3D323338%3B497857nu0mrj
http://images.snapfish.com/3457732723232%7Ffp335%3Enu%3D323%3B%3E735%3E949%3E WSNRCG%3D323338%3B498344nu0mrj
http://images.snapfish.com/3457732723232%7Ffp336%3Enu%3D323%3B%3E735%3E949%3E WSNRCG%3D323338%3B497865nu0mrj

Racing is counterclockwise

bboffroad

01-04-2006, 07:04 AM

Folks,

Any ideas on how I could convert my MP7.5 to a stadium truck?

I'm sure there's some kit around, but could not find it using Google.

Any help appreciated.

Cheers,
Ben B

Mika

01-04-2006, 09:13 AM

Here's the new kit http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Products/31351B-ST-S.asp
Dunno if you can buy it yet but Ive seen it in shows

AreCee

01-04-2006, 09:23 AM

Folks,

Any ideas on how I could convert my MP7.5 to a stadium truck?

I'm sure there's some kit around, but could not find it using Google.

Any help appreciated.

Cheers,
Ben B
Try the Mugen MSR truggy conversion kit for the Kyosho MP777. Almost all the parts on the 7.5 that you would use for the conversion will work and you can buy the few, not sure of how many, that you may need.

Conversions are selling for $260 at A-Main Hobbies.

bboffroad

01-04-2006, 09:42 AM

Try the Mugen MSR truggy conversion kit for the Kyosho MP777. Almost all the parts on the 7.5 that you would use for the conversion will work and you can buy the few, not sure of how many, that you may need.

Conversions are selling for $260 at A-Main Hobbies.

Great! though its a bit pricey.

Cheers,
Ben B

AreCee

01-04-2006, 12:23 PM

Great! though its a bit pricey.

Cheers,
Ben B
It gets even more pricey buying all the parts separately. You could try ebay for some but from what I've seen you would be better off with the kit which includes the body, wheels, tires (Pro-Line Bow Ties), adapters, chassis, rear drive cvd, body mounts, etc. It's your choice to either pay now or pay later and I found out the hard way that it's very hard to beat the kit price.

Now on the other hand you can buy an OFNA Jammin CRT kit for $470 and add your engine and electronics. One of the racers I know bought one and said that it's a good kit, he and I used to race OFNA 9.5s a few years ago.

bboffroad

01-04-2006, 12:38 PM

It gets even more pricey buying all the parts separately. You could try ebay for some but from what I've seen you would be better off with the kit which includes the body, wheels, tires (Pro-Line Bow Ties), adapters, chassis, rear drive cvd, body mounts, etc. It's your choice to either pay now or pay later and I found out the hard way that it's very hard to beat the kit price.

Now on the other hand you can buy an OFNA Jammin CRT kit for $470 and add your engine and electronics. One of the racers I know bought one and said that it's a good kit, he and I used to race OFNA 9.5s a few years ago.

Wow! Jammin CRT looks good and tough. thanks for the information. You are right, I'm better transfering my relatively new engine (OS .21 RZ) and electronics, as my inferno is old.
But its £380 (US$660) here though. :(
http://www.rchopups.co.uk/item--Ofna-Jammin-X1-CRT-Pro-Spec-Truggy--JamminX1CRT.html

AreCee

01-04-2006, 01:42 PM

Thought you were a Brit but wasn't sure.

Regardless of which way you go, it will cost you something. At least with the MSR kit you will save a few pounds.

ALJR

01-04-2006, 03:40 PM

Yes ALJR, my local track is an indoor offroad track that runs nitro and elec. obviously. It's not that big of a track, I think they said it's within a 120'x80' and they change it every month or so. I'll post links to some pics.

BTW ALJR.. thanks for being a good sport and not trying to get me banned on those fast tires.... it was all about havin fun, I honestly wasn't trying to hijack your thread or sales...but when I saw that guy only wanted one set, and since thats all i had.... I thought it would save you from splitting up your package. I didn't mean any harm. ;)

Sweet track! It looks sticky? Is it pure clay, or sand/clay?

Don't worry about my thread.. Its no big deal :)

ALJR

01-04-2006, 03:46 PM

My 777 sp2 arrived yesterday and I am half way through the build. I am using "Tony's Screws" for the build, so it is slow going (having to swap-out and search for screws).. I must say though, this screw kit is VERY through! The screw kit comes w/ EVERY nut and bolt imaginable (and a few extras).. I have not striped-out a hex head yet! These are very strong steel!

I did encounder a small problem with my rear, inner, upper suspension link mount. That lil ball that screws to the shock tower was not tapped all the way through, making it impossible to mount.. needless to say, it is hardened steel and I was unable to continue tapping it.. looks like I am going to be buying a replacement.. it no big deal, just annoying..

EZM

01-04-2006, 06:12 PM

what bearings are the best, stock mp 777 sp1 or boca bearings blue seal?

ALJR

01-04-2006, 07:05 PM

Depends on what your doing w/ the buggy.. racing or bashing?

bashing, I would go w/ some sort of plastic or rubber seal = less dirt can get in = less maintenance = more friction
racing, I like metal shielded = less friction = not as tight of a seal = more maintenance

the quality of the stock and bocca blues are simmilar (as far as there balls are concerned)

either way, I would not replace the stocks untill there junk

dgrobe2112

01-05-2006, 12:48 AM

ALJR.. i dont know if its supposed to be threaded all the way through.. i think its got a blank spot in the center.. be sure not to use a screw thats too long.. verify with the other piece on the other side.. but if im not mistaken.. it uses a screw on one side of the tower.. then on the other side.. has the blue button cap.. to cover it up..

the stock bearings are great, but if your looking for good replacements, www.avidrc.com is cheap, and can do your whole car for less than 20 bux.

StevePond

01-05-2006, 02:09 AM

ALJR

01-05-2006, 10:41 AM

ALJR - email sales@kyoshoamerica.com with your information and part number and I'll get you a new part. Just check that you have a 4mm long cap screw going into one side of the ball, and a 10mm long cap screw going in from the shock tower side.

Thanks Steve, I will send an email shortly.. Should I send it to any ones attention?

I can only thread a screw into one side of that part (the ball side). The flat hex-shaped side (that goes against the shock tower) is blank. There is a hole, but no threads tapped into it. Making it impossible to screw a screw into it.. I tried to tap it myself. But it is hardened and I didn't want to snap my tap off inside of it..

dgrobe2112

01-05-2006, 12:28 PM

ahh.. now it get it ALJR..that sux.. Steve, you work for Kyosho America?? thats sweet that you frequent the boards.. to see how things are going..

J_Bone

01-05-2006, 07:04 PM

Steve Pond,
I'm curious on what happened to a couple of Kyosho drivers? PM me if you will.
Thanks

freddan

01-06-2006, 11:10 AM

Is there any website commited to the mp777? With loads of pictures and riders pics? www.mp777.com is not active for example. thanks.

dgrobe2112

01-06-2006, 11:44 AM

not that i am aware of.. i do frequent a website called Sgrid.. which is kinda like this one.. where the MP777 have its own section.. actually.. Kyosho has its own section..

JamminJay

01-06-2006, 12:05 PM

possibly www.neo-buggy.net ???

Dan, you seen the new engines by GRP? They look sweet. Theres a .12 called the Ninja. www.ninja-engine.com Also. on the home page of neo-buggy, is the new .21, called the Falcon. These engines are made in Italy, under the GRP name by M. Rossi. I have known about these for about a week. but I can't post them in the new section.....Steve Pond....Where are you.

dgrobe2112

01-06-2006, 12:41 PM

yeah.. i seen them.. they are talkin bout that big time on Sgrid.. so you know.. Phillip from Neo-buggy.. gets alot of his info from sgrid.. there is another website called www.buggy-sport.info that is similar to neobuggy.. click on news.. and it has a list of most recent news..

I think those other engines will be pretty expensive.. dont know the pricing on those yet

tharis

01-06-2006, 02:35 PM

These engine price will be about 2/3 of the price of the expensive motors like rb and novarossi.

dgrobe2112

01-06-2006, 04:46 PM

so.. your telling me, a comperable engine to a P5 will be 190??

J_Bone

01-06-2006, 05:23 PM

How good is it?? I'm about to drop the coin for a P5 in a week or so. Maybe get one of the Ninja's...
I don't like the Alum. carb though. That's been a tuning nightmare in the past.

dgrobe2112

01-06-2006, 05:51 PM

P5.. P5.. P5.. :) i biased.. actually.. that new 3 port is pretty potent..

ALJR

01-06-2006, 06:20 PM

I second that... P5!

There is a reason why the P5 is so popular...

IMO, if your going to drop over $200 for a race engine, pony-up and go with a proven winner..

J_Bone

01-06-2006, 06:20 PM

Ya baby....http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/23_31/products_id/2939

ALJR

01-06-2006, 07:03 PM

Ya baby....http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/23_31/products_id/2939

$25 cheaper..
http://cgi.ebay.com/NOVAROSSI-RX21P5X-RACE-ENGINE-P5-OFNA-BUGGY-MUGEN_W0QQitemZ6025405418QQcategoryZ116076QQrdZ1QQ cmdZViewItem

JamminJay

01-06-2006, 07:24 PM

http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/default.php?cPath=108_383

$279.99 and they take paypal.

I run the Rex version. Same engine. I love it. I just bought the Rex for 1. I had a Rex prior to this from a friend and loved it. 2. I liked the blue head, goes with the blue on the 777.

JamminJay

01-06-2006, 07:30 PM

These engine price will be about 2/3 of the price of the expensive motors like rb and novarossi.

Highly unlikely :rolleyes:

J_Bone

01-06-2006, 07:40 PM

The P5x has 2 more small ports which gives it more top end over the previous P5's.

J_Bone

01-06-2006, 07:49 PM

Highly unlikely :rolleyes:
I would have to agree wit you Jay.

JamminJay

01-06-2006, 07:59 PM

The P5x has 2 more small ports which gives it more top end over the previous P5's.

My mistake. :o

J_Bone

01-06-2006, 08:09 PM

My mistake. :o
ah, no worries. I wasn't pointing out in spite. Just letting you all know that there is a difference. So don't get ripped off buying an older one since most stores should lower their prices to get them off their shelves.

J_Bone

01-07-2006, 09:42 AM

Well, I got a P5x with a JP-1 and Cross head coming my way. I already have a JP-1 and JP-2 so I will probably have to sell it but it was a combo deal...$335 with shipping, sale the pipe fro $55 and I got the engine and head for $280. Not to bad. Then I can sell the head if I want too.... :p

http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/members/jbone/MyeBay%20win.JPG

JamminJay

01-07-2006, 10:47 AM

Not too sure about the 5x, but my 5, likes the jp-2. They seem to be well matched for each other.

StevePond

01-07-2006, 04:01 PM

Thanks Steve, I will send an email shortly.. Should I send it to any ones attention?

I can only thread a screw into one side of that part (the ball side). The flat hex-shaped side (that goes against the shock tower) is blank. There is a hole, but no threads tapped into it. Making it impossible to screw a screw into it.. I tried to tap it myself. But it is hardened and I didn't want to snap my tap off inside of it..

ALJR - just put my name in the subject line. I'll get you hooked up.

StevePond

01-07-2006, 04:06 PM

Steve Pond,
I'm curious on what happened to a couple of Kyosho drivers? PM me if you will.
Thanks

There's no problem with asking here. There are details that are not for public consumption, but Jared Tebo indicated a couple months ago that he may get out of racing, and Jeremy is now driving for Hobao. Jared has since made overtures that he may be driving again for someone else, but it's not clear who. They are both great drivers and great people, so I'm sorry to see them go, but it's "silly season" and that the nature of the business - drivers change teams and teams change drivers. I wish the both of them great success in whatever they do. They're first class people in my book.

ALJR

01-07-2006, 04:43 PM

ALJR - just put my name in the subject line. I'll get you hooked up.

I sent the email the other day (Thursday I belive). The next day I got a phone call from some Kyosho rep. who took care of me.. Kinda suprised I received a respons so quick, let alone a phone call!

Customer service so far from Kyosho America is defiantly a 10 out of 10..

freddan

01-07-2006, 06:54 PM

Is there a kyosho designer called mikael bridell? just curious if there is other names than yuichi kanai!

EZM

01-08-2006, 09:38 PM

heres my 777 soon to be tuned and freshened
http://i46.imagethrust.com/t/194257/img0735.jpg (http://i46.imagethrust.com/p/194257/img0735_jpg.html)

dgrobe2112

01-08-2006, 10:04 PM

Nice lookin Racers Edge....

StevePond

01-09-2006, 12:00 AM

Is there a kyosho designer called mikael bridell? just curious if there is other names than yuichi kanai!

There are quite a few designers. I haven't heard of any Kyosho designers by that name, but it's quite possible. Why do you ask?

Mika

01-09-2006, 08:54 AM

Because both are swedish ? ;-)

Hey, a question: Is anybody using an optional (non-kyosho) chassis for the SP2 ? Like Fioroni. I need to get a new one, I am wondering if there any optional good ones available, possibly less expensive. Thanks

ALJR

01-09-2006, 01:34 PM

Mika

01-09-2006, 02:24 PM

propably yes, will look into that, thanks

J_Bone

01-09-2006, 06:33 PM

I saw SP-2 chassis going for $40.

ALJR

01-09-2006, 08:50 PM

I saw SP-2 chassis going for $40.

But what did it end at?

J_Bone

01-09-2006, 10:39 PM

Closed at $40....I was watching it...

J_Bone

01-09-2006, 10:44 PM

Well....I bought this off eBay on Friday night and it was shipped out Saturday then got to me on Monday....Holy cow....that was some serious service!!
plus I got this for $335 shipped..all New in the Box

http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album65/MyeBay_win.jpg

ALJR

01-09-2006, 11:37 PM

I paid $210 for my p5 and $85 for a rb one-piece pipe :p so nan nan nan

That was ment to be funny, not sarcastic :)

J_Bone

01-10-2006, 12:15 AM

I paid $210 for my p5 and $85 for a rb one-piece pipe :p so nan nan nan

That was ment to be funny, not sarcastic :)
So they are the same if I sell my cooling head for $40 and that I probalby won't use...lol

dgrobe2112

01-10-2006, 12:35 PM

i have never used aftermarket cooling heads.. they just give a false sense of security.. the stock heads always work fine.. if your car runs 240 with the stock head.. then.. thats what it runs at.. putting an aftermarket head on there.. and temps go down to 210.. still the same temp..

ALJR

01-10-2006, 04:48 PM

if your car runs 240 with the stock head.. then.. thats what it runs at.. putting an aftermarket head on there.. and temps go down to 210.. still the same temp..

240 and 210 are the same temp?

AreCee

01-10-2006, 04:57 PM

I think he meant to say that it's the same air/fuel mixture but it will measure a lower temp reading.

The problem with a larger cooling head is that it can mislead your engine tuning if you go by temperature. True the temps will be lower for the same tune but if you start leaning out the mixture to hit 240 again then you will be too lean and starve the engine of oil thereby blowing it.

J_Bone

01-10-2006, 05:24 PM

Ya, it was part of the package.
On a hot running engine they work very well, but on cooler running engines then I say to stay with the stock head. On the OS .21 RG it works great, 230-240 all day long, which would be the same as 260-280, which is the sweet spot for the RG.

dgrobe2112

01-10-2006, 06:13 PM

ALJR

01-10-2006, 06:27 PM

Thats what i meant.. sorry.. :)

I understood what you ment.. I was just having a lil fun w/ ya..

The only way I could see using an aftermarket cooling head would be in the hot summer months where an engine might temp-out at 300+ deg.. 20 or 30 deg lower temps would make the engine last a bit longer.. also, some stock heads are just garbage..

J_Bone

01-11-2006, 09:07 AM

I do race in the Summer here in Arizona. It's get to 118F sometimes, but we race at night when the sun comes down. It's still hot but at least the sun isn't beating on you!

I used a Nova head on my OS .21RG and I'm not too sure I liked it even then.

Thanks for all the positive comments on my ripped off and wrong parthttp://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif

ALJR

01-11-2006, 10:25 AM

Thanks for all the positive comments on my ripped off and wrong parthttp://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif

What wrong part? I like what you have and I think you got a VERY good deal on that engine..

dgrobe2112

01-11-2006, 10:43 AM

i need some good deals.. hahah.. this year should be good.. got the SP2 dialed in.. we will see how i stack up next weekend.. i think i got a shot at the A in Expert buggy, not sure bout the win though.. but i think i can get into the A..

I think i got a shot at the win in MT though.. we will see.. got some big guns coming from out of town..

So, have yall basically taken winter off this year.. we havnt got much cold here.. some cold.. but not un bearable.. (knock on wood).. hopefully next weekends big race is bearable.. hahah

J_Bone

01-11-2006, 10:44 AM

What wrong part? I like what you have and I think you got a VERY good deal on that engine..
http://az-rcfreaks.com/modules/Forums/images/smiles/error.gif Internet sarcasm... http://az-rcfreaks.com/modules/Forums/images/smiles/doh2.gif I guess it doesn't always come through to people you've never meet before.

J_Bone

01-11-2006, 10:52 AM

dgrobe2112

01-11-2006, 12:09 PM

right.. we havent got any rain in along time either.. not sure how long.. but we are in the 60-70's lately.. been cold at night time.. but nice and warm durnign the day.. where you from J?

J_Bone

01-11-2006, 12:23 PM

right.. we havent got any rain in along time either.. not sure how long.. but we are in the 60-70's lately.. been cold at night time.. but nice and warm durnign the day.. where you from J?
Originally from San Diego, CA but now im in Queen Creek, Arizona, just out side of Phoenix.

dgrobe2112

01-11-2006, 02:14 PM

Waco, TX... feels good right now..

J_Bone

01-11-2006, 03:14 PM

Yup!! I'm breaking in my New P5X.... :D

dgrobe2112

01-11-2006, 05:15 PM

T21BN or something liket hat for me.. :)

ALJR

01-11-2006, 06:48 PM

Boston, MA here.... ya, its cold.. im running electric indoors till spring..

J_Bone

01-11-2006, 09:44 PM

Boston, MA here.... ya, its cold.. im running electric indoors till spring..
That's a bummer. We have a new Indoor Electric too, but it's for the Summer heat. I'll still race my buggy outdoors. I race flash lights for a year or so adn I came back to Nitro...lol :p

Oh ya, I turned 21 in Boston. :D :D I lived in Mass for a year and it was so damn cold I couldn't handle it. That spring I drove back to San Diego.

EZM

01-13-2006, 09:47 PM

Can you explain what oil in the diffs and in the shocks to use for my mp 777? can you tell me what weight would be for what and how, thanks, im new to the racing scene!

dgrobe2112

01-14-2006, 01:00 PM

front diff
thicker= less steering off power, more on power steering, more stable under braking
thinner= more steering off power into the corner, but can be inconsistant on power at corner exit

Center diff
Thicker= more all wheel drive affect, better accelleration, can be more nervous to drive
thinner= front wheels unload under accelleration, which decreases accelleration, thinner also decreases on power steering, cuz front wheels unload on accelleration

Rear diff
thinner=more steering into corner, more corner traction, can be loose.
thicker= less rear traction while cornering, but also reduces wheelspin

Shocks,
softer spring, thinner oil = more chassis roll, more traction, better on bumpy tracks, more chance of bottoming out
Stiffer spring, heavier oil = less chassis roll, less traction, however, more responsive, better for smooth flowing tracks

My diff setup is 5k in front, 7k in center, 2k in the rear
Shock setup, is AE 60 in front with white SP2 springs, rear is AE40 with SP2 blue springs

Mika

01-16-2006, 02:34 PM

OK, I bidded a new SP2 chassis for $60 (plus shipping). It is still less than from a shop. Now I just have it to arrive...

J_Bone

01-17-2006, 07:20 AM

I think I need to start to look for a new SP-2 chassis. The rear is getting grinded away.

Mika

01-17-2006, 12:17 PM

Happened to me also. Maybe I had too soft rear suspension with 1.5mm(-1.7mm) drilled holes, but it worked well on rough/bumpy terrain

J_Bone

01-17-2006, 04:00 PM

Ya, well it works good for ruff straits but it's the jumps that hit the rear hard. I think I need to drill out mu pistons for one track of our series race.Damn, I should get a whole other set for each track...lol. Too much rebuilding each week.

Mika

01-18-2006, 01:41 AM

I agree; that's why I'm considering rebuilding rear shocks with stock pistons (1.4mm hole). But I have two pair of shocks, spare ones with the SP1 shorter axle and I could change the drilled pistons to those..to have those ready and available when the requires.

J_Bone

01-18-2006, 07:30 AM

That's what I'm going to do. Get a second pair of SP-2 rear shocks with Green springs and drilled pistons and run 30wt. or 32.5Wt Losi oil. My current SP-2 with Blue springs, 35wt. and 1.4 pistons works good at one track, but not the other.

dgrobe2112

01-18-2006, 11:48 AM

Jared Tebo now runs for Odonnel, to run the new Odonnell 1/8th buggy..

www.neo-buggy.net

StevePond

01-19-2006, 01:07 AM

J Bone - the piston of choice for the team guys seems to be a 1.4mm 2-hole. Is that what you're running?

J_Bone

01-19-2006, 06:30 AM

J Bone - the piston of choice for the team guys seems to be a 1.4mm 2-hole. Is that what you're running?
Yes, I'm currently running the 1.4mm with 35wt. I race with a guy named Trevor Clement and he was running the green springs and 32.5 and his was still a bit all over. He even ran the shocks more verticle. So I was thinking of drilling out the 1.4mm to a 1.5 to get get rid of the pack I'm getting on this one track.

dgrobe2112

01-19-2006, 10:00 AM

are you running the same oil as he is?? brand and everything.. i run AE40, with the blue springs..

J_Bone

01-19-2006, 03:43 PM

Yes I run the same oil. we both were having problems with that track and getting the rear end under control. It wasn't just the Kyosho buggies, but every one was having issues except Ryan Maifield and Casey Peck.

here's what I have gathered:
CPS = LosiWT = Assoc.W
100 .... 10 ..... 7.5
150 .... 15 ..... 12.5
200 .... 20 ..... 17.5
275 .... 25 ..... 22.5
350 .... 30 ..... 27.5
425 .... 35 ..... 33.5
500 .... 40 ..... 37.5

dgrobe2112

01-22-2006, 09:38 PM

this weekend.. at our race here in Waco.. we had 188 entries, and got it all done in one day.. the testing, and stuff i have been doing with the car is starting to finally pay off.. the car is getting so much better each and every time i drive it..

this weekend.. car was almost perfect.. with most of the fastest drivers in Texas, i was qualified 13th overall.. in the B main.. we got a little rain.. which really suited my car.. my car came in for that race.. and i was gone.. however, the change in the weather, also affected my motor, it started to run lean.. and the plug let out after the 2nd pit stop.. I was positioned for the win.. and to go to the A.. but my engine let me down.. That wont happen again, its very rare that i have and engine problem.

Mika

01-23-2006, 06:34 AM

Too bad DG! Next time...

Hey, find here a bunch of SP2 setups
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/race/race_event/car/2005_japan_kmasters/index-e.html
Interestingly enough mr. Kanai has 2x 1.2 shock pistons and diff setup 4-5-4

Mika

01-23-2006, 03:08 PM

Have you noticed any difference running without front stabilizer?

dgrobe2112

01-23-2006, 04:00 PM

i have never ran without a sway bar.. sorry.. havent done any testing with it either..

J_Bone

01-23-2006, 04:40 PM

A few guys removed their front sway bar on the last race. The track was super ruff and rutted and it would give them more independent suspension. I don't know if it helped since I left mine on and was faster, if it wasn't for the damn flame out my finish would have been better.

Mika

01-24-2006, 01:00 AM

ok, thanks guys

ALJR

01-24-2006, 11:12 PM

I have ran a few times w/o a front sway bar on several different buggies (not w/ the sp2 yet) and did not like the results.. seems like it made the buggy act unpredictable under certian conditions and areas of the track.. expecially areas where I would normally have no problems..

freddan

01-26-2006, 04:43 PM

Anyone knows some links to pictures of the buildingprocess of the mp777? Or any other site with detailed pictures of the mp777? thanks.

Mika

01-27-2006, 04:02 AM

You mean other than the manual..? Manual is available from www.kyosho.co.jp

Did this http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/frogblackwing.jpg

freddan

01-28-2006, 08:40 AM

Mika, will u please give us some access to more pictures under snrt.net/777/SP2/, some kind of directory. You seem to build like a pro and we can all benefit from seeing more pics from the sp2 car. thanks. fredrik

Mika

01-28-2006, 09:38 AM

Thanks Frederik, but there are plenty more Pro guys here than me.. and I don't have so good pics around.. Maybe someone else knows a good site?

AreCee

01-28-2006, 11:13 AM

There used to be a Dutch site that would go through a build with descritions. I'll see if I can find it again. They may not have a 777 build but in reality most 1/8 scale buggies are similar enough that it should do especially when you have the Kyosho manual in your hands.

I found the site. http://www.twf8.ws/php/ You'll need to register to use it.

Mika

02-01-2006, 08:17 AM

What is the part number for SP2 white front springs? Thanks!

Mika

02-01-2006, 03:15 PM

New Kyosho 777 truggy
http://www.snrt.net/teamkyosho/777truggy3.jpg

dgrobe2112

02-01-2006, 03:21 PM

IF335W

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/4118

Mika

02-01-2006, 04:17 PM

Thanks DG!

dgrobe2112

02-01-2006, 04:29 PM

no prob man.. you will love them.. also.. think about getting some of the SP2 greens for the rear.. when the track goes really rough.. you go to SP2 blue in front, and SP2 green in the rear.. and drop the oil some.. possibly 50/35 when you go to that spring config..

nigru

02-01-2006, 06:33 PM

One question. I run the v-spec on my inferno and yesterday I took the Inferno for a special ride, not in a circuit, not in my backyard but took it for a ride in the streets!! My friend was driving a Land Cruiser while i was with my inferno and on the speedometer we read 62mph!! With the strandard clutch bell! My question is, if I keep the enigines reving at top speed for about 30 second to 1 minute or more, will the engine break? Thanks

dgrobe2112

02-01-2006, 08:56 PM

depends on how lean the engine is.. and by the sounds of it.. coulda been pretty lean.. they are designed to be offroad engines.. and not sustain too much RPM for long periods at the same time.. dont be suprised if the piston comes out the side.. hahah.. but.. it might be ok..

EZM

02-01-2006, 09:25 PM

I have an sp1 chassis for mp 777 SP1/2 in great condition was used 10 times.Mud guards used 10 times also and have extras thats why im selling these parts.Chassis is in great condition,never jumped or bent it. Guards are great also.

Chassi- $28 shipped obo
Mud Guards-$6 shipped

I will entertain trades for an s-25 carb
ofna .26 force carb, .12 hpi ss carb, mp 777 body
Peak charger, good 1/8 pipe and rx pack charger.

aim-fplcrc
msn-rchabit

J_Bone

02-01-2006, 09:38 PM

never mind...did see this last page.
I haven't been getting any e-mail again for this thread... :mad:

Well the bottom screw on my front knuckles stripped out and fell out on my last race and cracked my Hub.
So I went to try the 7.5 knuckles from Top cad and they don't fit. Every one I talked to say they are the same and always have?? But the holes in the knuckles don't align up with the shims in the hubs. Could this be an isolated problem?

ALJR

02-01-2006, 10:07 PM

777 are not the same as 7.5 knuckles..
hotbodies lightning is the same as 777

J_Bone

02-01-2006, 11:11 PM

They are close, but I don't believe they are the same. Oh well. Lesson learned.

dgrobe2112

02-01-2006, 11:38 PM

i think the factory ones are a little different.. but the ones from Racers Edge are the same.. they both work..

J_Bone

02-02-2006, 12:27 AM

I tried to buy the cheap Top Cad ones. Oh well, I got some KH's one on there way! woo hoo..

AreCee

02-02-2006, 10:24 AM

The stock knuckles are the same for both the 7.5 and the 777, no difference, same part number and all. Sounds like Top cad missed the boat on that machining job.

Mika

02-02-2006, 01:15 PM

Well.. I already thought that what a heck.. ;-)

I ordered some parts from A Main hobbies (springs etc) You can't beat the price can you

edit: fixed my typo ;-)

J_Bone

02-02-2006, 04:14 PM

Well.. I already thought that what a heck.. ;-)

I ordered some parts from A Main hobbies (springs etc) You can beat the price can you
Nope, that's where I do 90% of my online shopping. they rock!

J_Bone

02-02-2006, 06:48 PM

Oh man, I know this is what I've been waiting for.
Kyosho ST-R video...aka 777 (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/race/race_event/event/2006nurnberg/img/infernostr_pv_e.wmv)

Mika

02-03-2006, 03:53 AM

Looks cool indeed! Well done Kyosho

supralative

02-03-2006, 04:30 AM

That is very nice Jason. The driver doesnt help though hahahaa. Looked like a fun track too. Cant wait to see one in person...I wonder if there wheelbase is as long as the CRT's and LSP's?

Not racing for a month and a half I sure got rusty. Got wore out the two qualifers but started getting my rhythmn back in the main. I was leading until a faulty switch/connector took me out!! Oh well last weekend to race before major track change for next season...hopefully it goes well.

jmangler1

02-05-2006, 08:07 AM

Hey guy's, I haven't chatted on here in a while! Getting ready to build another 777! Just curious as to how you guys with the SP1's that changed over to SP2's think! Do most of you still like the SP2 better or is their any change of heart! I was thinking of build a SP1 because I have the Fioroni chassis for the SP1 still.

Also I just picked up a standard 777 for really cheap. I cant remember what the difference 's are between that and the SP1. I know the chassis isnt anodized, and it has standard diff's, but I draw a blank after that! Is the servo saver differnt, and the universals... I just dont remember....

Thanks

AreCee

02-05-2006, 10:53 AM

Universals only on the front. Shock towers are thinner, shocks are the same size but not hard anodized, heavier spur gear, plain Al clutch shoes, stamped anti-squat plate and front plate.

J_Bone

02-05-2006, 01:11 PM

I still prefer my SP-2 to the SP-1.

I just returned to racing with 4 weeks off and man I was off. I only got into the B main and broke in the B main and didn't bump up. I sat there and watched the A main while being disappointed in my self thinking; I usually win or at least podium this main... The kicker was 2 races before, my throttle servo went out on my Gas Truck while warming up for the A main. I got it back up and running after missing 6 minutes of the 20 minute main to only catch back up to 5th. :( Oh, I forgot to mention it was a Series Final race. Oh well, next time.

I broke my first Kyosho 777 part with out crashing. I snapped my a-arm in half right next to where the hub mounts and then bent the axel too. Probably weakened from previous hit on the pipes or what ever.

freddan

02-05-2006, 04:00 PM

Are the diffs in the mp777 of good quality?
I mean the bevel gears are of cast alu (and mugen x5 has hardened steel bevel gears).

Does the diffs in the mp777 really take hours of racing? Is the reputation that mp777 diffs are really tough? thanks.

Monsterbrad

02-05-2006, 05:18 PM

I have heard everything about ths buggy is good.
And anything that they come out with you can add it to your existing sp-1 or 2.
I know one guy that likes the Sp-1 better then the 2.
I have a chance to get a sp-1 with good servo's and battery pack.
Needs my radio gear and an engine. 500 bucks
I think I am going to take it.
I want one anyways and this is the buggy to get anyways.
Plus it has a bunch of kinds headz stuff on it.

dgrobe2112

02-05-2006, 05:19 PM

the mp777 diffs, are great.. i never have diff failures, except for if i dont build correctly, i have had failures before, but due to something else..

The SP2 is way better than the SP1, due to stability, and controlability.. there are many changes.. the weight balance of the SP2 is what makes the car that much better.. if you got a good deal on the SP1, just buy the conversion kit.. trust me, you will love it..

My SP2 gets better and better every weekend out with it.. Texas weather allows for racing almost every weekend.. hahah.. sometimes its cold.. but its doable.. this weekend.. ran indoors, i never have luck indoors, however.. this is the first time with the SP2 indoors.. very pleased with the car.. didnt have to change anything tother than ride height of the car.. car was way planted.. we had well over bout 80 buggies this weekend.. i was in the B main again.. leading again.. i lead for the first 14 minutes of the 20 minuterace.. after the last pit stop.. dont know what happened.. but the motor wouldnt clear out.. i just couldnt keep pace.. and slowly got caught and passed by 2nd and 3rd.. and i finished 3rd.. missed the bump spot by 8 seconds.. i think a plug may have been the culprit again.. indoor tune.. got cold again.. just too long between races.. from last heat to my main.. hahah.. car ran great for the first part.. maybe fuel in the pressure line.. i dont know.. just wouldnt clear out on the straight.. i was pretty dissappointed.. think im gonna have to get another P5.. hahah one more strike and this 3 port becomes my club race engine.. hahah

Motorman007

02-05-2006, 05:53 PM

Nice going D. the B main and leading it too. man you are fire this year.

this is the 2nd time heard about your good runs.

keep it up.

dibs

the mp777 diffs, are great.. i never have diff failures, except for if i dont build correctly, i have had failures before, but due to something else..

The SP2 is way better than the SP1, due to stability, and controlability.. there are many changes.. the weight balance of the SP2 is what makes the car that much better.. if you got a good deal on the SP1, just buy the conversion kit.. trust me, you will love it..

My SP2 gets better and better every weekend out with it.. Texas weather allows for racing almost every weekend.. hahah.. sometimes its cold.. but its doable.. this weekend.. ran indoors, i never have luck indoors, however.. this is the first time with the SP2 indoors.. very pleased with the car.. didnt have to change anything tother than ride height of the car.. car was way planted.. we had well over bout 80 buggies this weekend.. i was in the B main again.. leading again.. i lead for the first 14 minutes of the 20 minuterace.. after the last pit stop.. dont know what happened.. but the motor wouldnt clear out.. i just couldnt keep pace.. and slowly got caught and passed by 2nd and 3rd.. and i finished 3rd.. missed the bump spot by 8 seconds.. i think a plug may have been the culprit again.. indoor tune.. got cold again.. just too long between races.. from last heat to my main.. hahah.. car ran great for the first part.. maybe fuel in the pressure line.. i dont know.. just wouldnt clear out on the straight.. i was pretty dissappointed.. think im gonna have to get another P5.. hahah one more strike and this 3 port becomes my club race engine.. hahah

supralative

02-05-2006, 07:23 PM

Good job Dan
my buddy got that transer spot...Trevor hehhe
he placed 7th overall

sounds like it was a great race over there at SRH

how did you like the track
from the pics it didnt look real technical but very high speed for sure

dgrobe2112

02-05-2006, 08:06 PM

yeah.. trevor is the one who took it.. i was pretty let down.. for my motor to do that to me 2 times.. oh well.. im on the brink i think.. SRH was a fun race.. track was technical and fast.. the S section.. tight.. i really enjoyed it

supralative

02-05-2006, 08:47 PM

hahhaa
na it will be ok maybe a tune...a plug or something
maybe i can you meet you down there sometime or even at Indy

dgrobe2112

02-06-2006, 12:31 PM

i am going to Indy for the stadium cross.. car was good at SR, hopefully setup will transfer to Indy.. yeah, i think the plug got weak.. so.. hopefully thats all it is..

JamminJay

02-07-2006, 02:53 PM

I have a question. I bought the upgraded cnc steering knuckles off ebay awhile ago for my buggy. Are the stock ones stronger? Seems I have had a problem with the pivoting screws that go into the 20/22* carriers. It has stripped through the knuckle, but stuck in that holder thing in the hub. My question is #1, how can i get the screw out of the holder thing? I can't grab it with pliers, so all it does is spin with the screw. #2 are the stock knuckles stronger so the threads wont strip? thanx.

dgrobe2112

02-07-2006, 03:06 PM

well.. if they are CNC'd knuckles, you shouldnt need locktite.. sounds like the locktite is what is holding in the screw into the sleeve that is inside the castor block.. it was tough for me to get the screw out when i stripped one also.. you could try some carb cleaner, or brake cleaner and spray it on the screw, or something to try to break the locktite loose.. it will coem out.. but its gonna be tough..

No, the stock knucks are not as tough as CNC'd knucks..

AreCee

02-07-2006, 04:25 PM

Always use a very small amount of BLUE locktite INSIDE the knuckle's threads and wipe off the excess DO NOT put any on the screw threads, this will prevent the screw from bonding to the collar.

The only time I had to replace a stock knuckle was when I broke one hitting a wall at the end of a straight (brain fade) and once when the u-joint pin came out of the drive and chewed up the knuckle. In other words the stock ones are strong enough and at $7 a pair I can have 7 pair for the cost of one pair of CNC knuckles. IMHO.

dgrobe2112

02-07-2006, 05:09 PM

I agree with you arecee, on price and all that.. however, i know for a fact that the CNC'd knuckles, while cost more, are more durable, and i have done my fair share of hard wrecks, and hitting the pipe and snagging the front wheel on the pipe, that i know would have broken a stock piece, but the CNC'd knuck held fine.. personally, the knuckles being tough, have kept me in a few races, where if i had stock, i woulda been out of the race..

AreCee

02-07-2006, 07:01 PM

It really comes down to a matter of personal preference. That's why we have people making the aftermarket parts.

Like I said I have only broken one in four years of racing two with an OFNA and I'm on my second year with the 777 and it's holding up fine. Now I have lost screws a couple times and the loose pin chewed up the knuckle but it finished the heat. Total races lost to a broken knuckle; Zero.

JamminJay

02-07-2006, 09:48 PM

see the CNC ones only cost me 19.99 i think off ebay.. the first time I lost a screw, this time the threds of the hole are stripped too bad. yes I used loctite and thats probably whats holding it in the sleeve. I got the stock ones on it now, I was able to wedge the stock one in without getting that screw out, and I just thread it into the stock ones. I am more concerned about the stock threads holding up and not stripping out more than I am concerned about the knuckle itself breaking. I mean if it comes to that, then it does, thats a whole other issue, but right now, i just don't want another screw stripping out. But thanx for the advice DG, next time I'll try to use some brake cleaner or something to breakdown the loctite.

Mika

02-08-2006, 02:26 PM

Blue Loctite cannot handle heat; try warming the part with a heat gun first or if nothing else put it into oven and then try to unscrew the bolt. But if you have plastic parts still connected, I wouldn't try the oven...just try carefully with a heat gun or something.

Jato9

02-08-2006, 04:22 PM

since this board get more traffic I will ask this question here. Does any one know if a 777 body will fit onto a 7.5. I am sure I will have to do some trimming but just kind of wondering if anyone has done it? The reason is I like the 777 body better then the 7.5.

Thanks Jake.

dgrobe2112

02-08-2006, 04:36 PM

no.. its not wide enough, will rub really bad, on the side guards, and the radio box and such..

freddan

02-08-2006, 04:39 PM

Wrote the same answer!

Jato9

02-08-2006, 04:47 PM

no.. its not wide enough, will rub really bad, on the side guards, and the radio box and such..

I have the 777 stone gaurds as well will that make any difference?

Thanks Jake

Monsterbrad

02-08-2006, 05:37 PM

What do you guys say for a all around good racing engine in the 300 buck range.
I am thinking about the Novarossi 421 b
or a P-5

Scrad

02-08-2006, 06:26 PM

What does the SP1 to SP2 conversion consist of? I used all of my K3 goodies on my standard 777, so I basically have a SP1. I do have a brand new K3 chassis, that is slightly longer than the 777 and I know the SP2 is longer. So I was wondering if the K3 chassis would be about the same as the SP2.

I may just keep my SP1 the same, because I thought it didn't have enough steering at my track... Hard to believe, but I had the 20 c hubs (I think). I increased it, but never had the chance to try it out after the change.

dgrobe2112

02-08-2006, 09:14 PM

brad, between those 2 engines, the P5 hands down, it has the more useable powerband, and easier to tune personally..

Scrad, hard to beleive that an SP1 dont have enough steering. I actually had to doal out steering in my SP1..

The conversion kit comes with a new chassis, better turnbuckles, universals, shock towers, and other updated parts..

Monsterbrad

02-09-2006, 05:11 PM

Somebody post a link to the up grade kit to the sp-2 version.
I will hopefuly have my sp-1 after saturdays racing.
I am running truggy right now and looking for something different.
I was looking at all the buggies and I came accross this sp-1 from a guy at the track with servo's and a bunch of KHZ parts on it for $500
Its clean but I will be going all through it taking it all apart.
I am not sure if I want to up grade to the sp-2 cause a guy at the track that drives very much like I do loves his sp-1.

dgrobe2112

02-09-2006, 05:15 PM

www.amainhobbies.com has them.. also.. our local hobby shop has one in stock.. for pretty cheap.. 254-666-8020 ask for dwayne

Monsterbrad

02-09-2006, 09:22 PM

What is the biggest difference when you switch a sp-1 over to the sp-2
I think I am going to get the regular P-5 like i had in my Hyper 7 pro

dgrobe2112

02-09-2006, 11:18 PM

the biggest difference, is the looseness of the rear end of the car is much better.. lot of guys were having trouble with the rear wanting to come around on power so easy.. but the SP2, balanced that back out, making the car much easeir to drive, and still have all the steering of the SP1

J_Bone

02-10-2006, 07:05 AM

I race with 2 guys who still run the SP-1 and they do quite well. Actually, it's me and one of them battling for 1st most of the time.
If you get a 2 degree anti squat plate and use some droop, it seems to be good.

steve-savalas

02-10-2006, 10:22 AM

Hi Guys, just for info.... I have a pair of Genuine carbon fibre side guards available for the lightning buggy (or any 1/8th scale nitro buggy).

Here's a few photos in case anyone's interested (the price may give you a heart attack though ) These are fitted to my Lightning 2 Pro.

See photos (http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=214348&goto=newpost)

These are very rare, they wight about 1/3rd of the weight of standard plastic side guards, they're so much stronger, and they look awesome - everybody wants to know where you get them when you go to your track or club!!

Monsterbrad

02-10-2006, 04:47 PM

Thanks for the info guys
I will be trying the buggy the way it is but I am going to have to make up my mind on which engine to power it.
most likely a p-5

J_Bone

02-10-2006, 05:34 PM

My P5X is the best motor I have owned.

Monsterbrad

02-11-2006, 01:46 PM

Well I pick up the buggy tonight hopefully if he includes all the stuff he said he was going too.
Then the fun starts of a complete tear down.
I think I am going to get a standard P-5 and a new 528x for the truggy for this comming summer racing

buggynic

02-11-2006, 08:37 PM

Hi all,

I just ran my new SP2 2 times, been searching for good forum for more info/setup abt the kit and seems like I found a great one here.
I am very happy so far with SP2, it handle better than my previous XB8. front and rear arms as strong as XB8. I dont like the stock screws and eclips but I have changed all the screw to hex and get Kfactory pin to replace the pins and eclips.
My only complaint is the front universal, it bend on my first time out. I replaced it with hyper7 universal and no probs so far.

great info from you guys here, i have tried some of the suggestions and it worked great !

Mika

02-12-2006, 02:51 AM

Glad to hear the car works for you. I have always used Racers Edge's stiffeners and never bent an universal.

J_Bone

02-12-2006, 09:16 AM

I just bent one of my front Uni's. But this is after 8 months of racing. Also, they got bent when I broke my lower a-arm and I drove it all the way across the finish line to get one more lap out of the Point series I was in. Come to think about it, that a-arm has been abused too and it finally broke. My Kyosho is a lot tougher than my last buggy.

Here is my latest setup for my track. I started with the generic setup Pavidis put on the Tech boards 8 months ago and varied a little over the months until the last 2 months.
This setup works real good on my track

Front suspension

shock oil............................................60w t Losi oil
toe out............................................... 1 degree
front ride hight.....................................front arms slightly above level
sway bar.............................................st ock
camber............................................ ....-2 degree
arm mount upper/lower..........................A
upper arm hight.....................................Lower
shock position......................................cent er ; inner hole on arm
ackerman position.................................bottom hole, furthest from front of car
front sway bar preload............................0 mm
diff oil............................................... .....5000

Rear

shock spring..........................................Bl ue (I use green if the track gets too bumpy)
shock oil............................................... .35wt Losi oil
ride hight............................................. ....rear arms
slightly above level
sway bar............................................... ...stock
camber............................................ .........-2
rear hub wheel base...................................spaced all the
way forward (spacer in rear)
rear toe in................................................ ..3
antisquat......................................... ..........2
shock position.......................................... ..upper middle; inner hole on arm
camber position.......................................... long link, middle on tower
hub hinge pin hole.......................................# 2 hole
(lower)
rear sway bar preload..................................0mm
diff oil............................................... ...........3000

Center/Clutch

diff oil............................................... ...........7000
clutch............................................ ..............carbon shoes; 1.0 spring (black)

buggynic

02-12-2006, 10:24 AM

I bent my front universal becoz I never land properly after my high jump. I was confused at tat time because the car never jump level in the mid air and unpredictable. went home and did some checking, and the problem was the clutch bell could not rotate free on the engine shaft, i put to many shims. :). however my xb8 universal is stronger though imho. today I put 60 front and 40 rear ( associated oil) put blue spring front and green rear. the car feels better than yesterday ( 50 front 45 rear - trinity oil, blue sprint front and rear).
I put 563 in diff, will try 573 later and also long wheel base.

do u use 20 or 22 hub J Bone?

J_Bone

02-12-2006, 06:32 PM

22 ......

dgrobe2112

02-13-2006, 03:54 PM

jb.. what front spring..

J_Bone

02-13-2006, 04:03 PM

I'm using the SP-2 Blue in front.

Monsterbrad

02-14-2006, 05:43 PM

How are the King Headz front knuckels compared to the stockers?
I got the buggy
needs TLC but it will be up and running by the spring.
I race Truggy so I am very curious about this buggy and what works with set ups.
I race mostly on the track with some bigger jumps and tight corners.

dgrobe2112

02-14-2006, 05:57 PM

i think there was some info bout that like 1 page before this one.. i personally like the CNC'd knucks over the stock ones, others feel the price of the CNC'd ones, over the stock ones dont make them worthy.. i would pay to not have to replace them.

J_Bone

02-15-2006, 12:43 PM

I ran the stock ones for 8 months and the only problem I had with them is" I stripped the lower threads". So I replaced it with Kingheads knuckles, just to be pretty. :D

AreCee

02-15-2006, 04:13 PM

Overall they're rather durable.

buggynic

02-15-2006, 11:20 PM

I just wonder if you guys changed the front lower hingpin holder (A/B) with alum one. The 3mm screw in mine is keep backing out. maybe becoz i put regular phillips screw and than changed it with hex screw. Just wonder if alum will hold better.

Mika

02-16-2006, 02:36 AM

I don't think the optional ones have screw holes like the stock plastic has? Most cases these optional parts are carried over from 7.5 which didn't have the screw holes thru the chassis. Other than that the part hasn't changed.

J_Bone

02-16-2006, 08:00 AM

Mika

02-16-2006, 09:35 AM

Does this have screw holes in bottom? I don't think RE's same part has. Of course alum will hold better because you can use loctite to lock the screws...

J_Bone

02-16-2006, 10:08 AM

Yes, King Headz (http://www.kingheadz.com/) have holes in the bottom.

dgrobe2112

02-16-2006, 10:34 AM

racers edge front lower blocks do not have the holes in the bottom.

buggynic

02-16-2006, 10:46 PM

Thanks for the info J-bone, I plan to get King Headz, but no stock currently here in Jakarta, might try fioroni as alternative.
BtW, I bought tamiya damper air remover last week, works great imho.
after running around 8 tanks my shocks still feels like after I put new oil in it.

dgrobe2112

02-17-2006, 09:52 AM

Guys.. im just typing some info i learned.. I did a little bit of testing the last couple weeks.. when the track gets loose, and slick.. i went to 5k in the center diff.. really made the car drivable.. wasnt so snappy on power.. this was at an outdoor track.. then went to an indoor track.. and the car just felt lazy coming out of the corners.. well.. i then decided to go back to stock setup.. and that is 7k in the center.. really helped the car.. so.. when the track goes loose.. go lower in center will help make the car drivable.. when you got lots of traction.. going up in center will help. im thinkin on that indoor track i coulda went to 10k.. but i never did.. left the 10k at the house.

freddan

02-17-2006, 01:04 PM

What kind of oil is the red TCD oil which comes with the MP777 sp1 kit? Is it gear oil for automobiles – therefore I can buy a can of oil from Texaco, Mobil1 or Shell?

JamminJay

02-17-2006, 01:29 PM

dgrobe2112

02-17-2006, 02:18 PM

dgrobe2112

02-17-2006, 02:19 PM

i dont have a spare center diff though.. i can change that at big races.. nto at club racing.. unless i miss a heat.. and our club racing has around 5 heats per weekend.. of all the races..

dgrobe2112

02-17-2006, 02:21 PM

Fred.. i cant remember the exact oil.. i think is 75/140 is the closest.. i will have to find out later

Monsterbrad

02-17-2006, 09:28 PM

The best way to tune the car is to ask around at the track you race at before setting up a buggy.
Most guys are pretty cool about hooking you up with a set up that will work pretty well.
I would say start off with 5000 up front 7000 in the center and 2000 or 1000 in the rear.
That seems to be a good starting point for the guys I race with.

JamminJay

02-18-2006, 11:31 AM

depends on the amount of heats.. i have spare diffs.. 2 spare front and rears.. i have one filled up with 3k, and the other with 4k.. then the 5k in the front in the car.. and the 2k in the rear of the car.. so.. its pretty easy to change at the track.. for me.. when changing diff oils.. i will use Carb cleaner, or brake cleaner.. and spray in there till all the oil is out.. then refill and go.. during a big race. i can do that.. in between heats.. but at club racing.. cant do it like i want too..

Yea I was gonna say, I don't think I would have time. Our club races we run 3 heats each. and it generally goes as follows due to soo many people theres usually 2 sets of each. 2 - MT heats, 2 1/10 gas truck heats, 2 -1/8 scale buggy heats, then 2 - UMT heats. but they are only 5 minute heats.

Monsterbrad

02-18-2006, 12:35 PM

Well started taking the buggy apart
the steering bearings are junk
The rest of the front end looks pretty good.
How are the a-arms on the buggy
are they pretty tough??????

adrianderekluna

02-19-2006, 02:25 PM

a-arms on my sp1 are stock and have been thru tremendous beatings. havn't stripped or even shed a hint of breaking. they are still snug to the hinge pin. the kyosho plastics actually stretch before they snap. as if there is a rubber compound mixed in with the pastics.

also the sp2 hinge areas on the pastics are nearly 50% more bulky than the previous sp1 series lower arms.

dgrobe2112

02-20-2006, 11:16 AM

the kyosho arms and such are pretty stout.. you should be allright.. i always have a spare set in the box just in case though..

adrianderekluna

02-20-2006, 01:23 PM

but i havn't heard the same for the optional long arms. i forgot to mention i use the optional short a-arms. they are much stronger, yet much more sensitive to turning than the long. i'd imagine the longer a-arms would be more sensitve to breakage.

Monsterbrad

02-20-2006, 07:30 PM

The sp-2 arms are a little different then.
I knew there had to be more then just rear shock tower and chassis.
My buggy looks pretty good though.
I had it all apart nothing was bent or out of wack.
I did pretty good for all the Kingz head and Racers edge stuff it has on it.
500 bucks with 2 pretty good servo's also.
I am very impressed with the steering also.
The new P-5 will be a nice addition

dgrobe2112

02-21-2006, 08:53 AM

the SP2 lower arms are bulked up near the inner hinge pin.. if you go to the hobby shop, and check out the new lower arms.. the plastic area round the hole for the hinge pin on the SP1 arms is like this o the plastic round the SP2 arms is O. more meat round the hole...

Monsterbrad

02-21-2006, 05:53 PM

Sounds good to me
I will get the new arms when I order spares.
I have decided what I am going to run for a engine and pipe combo! :D
P-5 and a jammin JP-2 pipe!

JamminJay

02-21-2006, 06:26 PM

I have decided what I am going to run for a engine and pipe combo! :D
P-5 and a jammin JP-2 pipe!

Awesome combo.....I don't know where or if you plan on racing. I race at a track that is pretty small. I think it's 120x80 or so. But it's indoor, and for us here in Michigan, that means indoor nitro :D Anyhow, I run a Rex P5, and hard coat JP2. OMG I have tons of power for that little track, I have NO problems keeping up with any Vspec, or ws72, anything else up there. I am gonna venture to some of our bigger outdoor tracks this summer. My friend bill has the Rossi version P5 in his mugen, and box stock he says he can beat our top guys Vspec on the big tracks. So I should be in for a treat with my engine. Now if I could just drive the damn thing. :p

Monsterbrad

02-21-2006, 09:38 PM

Any of you guys have the part number for that cool little transponder holder that this buggy comes with????
I have no manual
I would also like a manual too
any ideas here?????

dgrobe2112

02-22-2006, 01:30 AM

in order to get the transponder mount.. you have to order a big ass bag of other stuff.. that you wont need.. i think its the radio gear bag.. comes with other plastics.. and such as that..

here is the SP2 manual

Click here for manual (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/download/instructionmanual/buggy/pdf/31779_infmp777_sp2_m.pdf)

Monsterbrad

02-22-2006, 06:37 PM

I wish I could get that book
I was kinda hoping that the guy that I bought the buggy off of had it
oh well
there is no part numbers
i'll check ebay

AreCee

02-22-2006, 06:40 PM

It will amaze you with all the information and part numbers you can find on this site:

http://www.kyosho.com/

Monsterbrad

02-22-2006, 07:27 PM

I have been there it wants me to down load the language thing and i am not going to do that.
Oh well
Thanks for the help guys
Is there anything else that any of you can think of that i should check out.

dgrobe2112

02-22-2006, 10:12 PM

just hit cancel on the download for the language.. you dont need to download the language to view the website, or the manual..

StevePond

02-25-2006, 04:31 AM

The manuals have Japanese characters in them, which will prompt users of Acrobat 6.0 or older to install the Japanese language support. Upgrade your Acrobat reader to version 7.0 and you'll be much better off. It doesn't require any upgrades and it launches in a fraction of the time it takes to boot V6.0 and lower. It's SOOO worth the time.

Monsterbrad

02-26-2006, 09:02 AM

I will try that.
Thanks guys for the help
Got to drive a sp-2 last night and let me tell ya these things are much different then my truggy.
:D
I was doing pretty well with it as my buddy from high school that I thought was pretty cool was destroying my truggy trying to drive around the track and keep up with me.
$1000 race truck needs completely re built :mad:
He will never drive another thing of mine
oh well live and learn

J_Bone

02-26-2006, 09:44 AM

AreCee

02-26-2006, 11:39 AM

There is probably only a hand full of guys I would let drive my Race RC's. I like it when I'm running up and down the street to get some run time and the kids ask to drive it. I just have to laugh at them and say "HELL NO!!!"
Even a lot of guys at t track I wouldn’t let drive it…
Aw, you don't need to be a meany. Just ask the kid to give you $1,000.00 for a damage deposit and watch them walk away. :) :cool:

nigru

02-26-2006, 12:41 PM

Just a question, I jump my inferno from a big ramp and the car when it hits the ground, it takes a big kick! Does the servo or reciever takes any damage?? They're futaba.

AreCee

02-26-2006, 01:28 PM

Just a question, I jump my inferno from a big ramp and the car when it hits the ground, it takes a big kick! Does the servo or reciever takes any damage?? They're futaba.
Hopefully you've wrapped the receiver in foam to cushion it and you should use the rubber grommets to mount the servos to save them from vibration. If you take a big hit then everything onboard will get hit, there's no way around it. If your servo saver is working then you may save the gears from a little abuse but abuse is abuse and eventually something will fail. (Not saying that you're purposely abusing the buggy but big jumps and hard landings do fall into that catagory.)

JamminJay

02-26-2006, 08:32 PM

Yup, that's right my tower snapped today in the third heat after trying to dance with a 10x10 I-Beam in the second. As many of you know I race an indoor track. Well I wasn't properly lined up to take on the 2step-triples, and theres an I-bean support for the building right there. Well it snapped the 2 inner areas of the tower and cracked the outer side..so i knew it was a matter of time in the third, sure enough, landed a jump, and she was over. Also bent a fin on my head today somehow too. :(
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/JamminJay/tower.jpg

nigru

02-28-2006, 05:02 AM

Mika

02-28-2006, 05:37 AM

Hi, recently we have a built a new track and next week, we are going to have a race. The track is very bumby. For a bumby track, what type of diff oil should I use, thick oil or not? And what suspention oil? thick ar not? Also in this track I must use all the height of the buggy. Please help. thanks
Last season I liked 2x 1.5 holes at rear with 50wt asso oil and SP2 blue springs on a rutted track. But if you follow Tebo's setup, it is green SP2 springs and ~35wt asso oil and 2x 1.4 holes at rear. In front 40-60wt oil with 2x1.4 holes and blue springs, but I think the rear is more important.
Diffs: Perhaps 5-5-2 or 5-7-2 (front to rear)

nigru

03-01-2006, 05:23 PM

thanks. Antother thing, can the engine(v-spec) be blown up if the buggy is at full throttle at maximum speed, for about 40seconds or more?Beause I want to try again to run after it with a car...........

dgrobe2112

03-02-2006, 03:34 PM

srry guys, i havent been keeping up on this site.. i havent gotten any emails telling me i got new replies..

So, 40 seconds, if the engine is tuned correctly, no, it will not blow up, wouldnt reccommend it.

Also, for a bumpy track, or track that is loose, i like to run 5k in the center, cuz it makes it smoother on power.

also, did some more diff testing. 3k in the front works great, but diffs out easy, makes the car a little too erratice for my liking. Im gonna go back to 5K in the front. 2k is max in the SP2 seems like.

Also, i went from 1deg toe out in front to 2 deg and made the car way more aggressive in the tight stuff, and 2.5deg toe in the rear. Car had all the steering i would ever need. Put the car back on the setup station, and get a good baseline.. and post the setup.

This weeks racing, Kyosho 1, 2, 3.. of course, i was in 3rd.. behind 2 factory drivers.. those guys are machines.. never make mistakes..

nigru

03-02-2006, 05:24 PM

Thanks. One question on the engine VSPEC, I am getting about 5 to 6 minutes and the engine is already overheated to get this type of time, I;ve read, that with one tank during races, a driver can get 6 to 7 minutes or more! How is this possible without blowing the engine???? Does the manufacurer of petrol make difference? Also which fuel iis best, one with synthetic oil ir castrol oil??

J_Bone

03-02-2006, 05:38 PM

Could be your LSN isn't set corectly. Guys at my track are getting 8-9 minutes a tank with the V Spec.

AreCee

03-02-2006, 08:30 PM

I agree. My V-Spec is getting about 8 to 10 minutes on the track. Now I will admit that only accounts for about 6 to 10 seconds or so of open throttle per lap. I run the small carb venturi, rich, 20% nitro and it gets up to about 230 after a few hot laps. I forgot to mention that I'm using a 053 pipe.

Remember that the fuel economy will vary depending on how you drive. Smooth throttle control will always increase mileage but jerky, hard acceleration and top speed runs will reduce consumption,

dgrobe2112

03-03-2006, 09:06 AM

yeah.. nigru, i dont know why your only getting 6 mins.. try a different pipe.. the OS2050 is a good pipe for that engine, but sounds like your tune is off or something.. you should get 8 mins plus easy..

nigru

03-03-2006, 10:05 AM

I am using the OS2050 pipe...............What is the maximum tempreture if this engine so I try to lean it out.

Mika

03-03-2006, 10:34 AM

Also, what affects to fuel consumption is the idle screw.. if you have high idle rpm it may consume more fuil than necessary.. but if your wheels don't try to spin when on idle I'm sure the idle screw is more or less fine. However, you may try setting it a bit less.

dgrobe2112

03-03-2006, 12:01 PM

the engine should make great power round 230-240, sounds like its a tuning issue, fat on bottom, lean on top, fat on bottom with a high idle, to compensate.. also.. be sure to leave the blue venturi in the carb.. should be an 8mm venturi

also, something you may check.. if you flip the car.. see if any fuel comes out the lid of the tank.. i had a ring on the lid break or something.. and i was wondering why my fuel mileage went down.. and cuz the lid would leak some of the gas out while on its lid.. also.. make sure you dont have any busted fuel line.. especially near the fuel filter..

Monsterbrad

03-04-2006, 01:00 PM

Don't always go by temp also.
I have seen some pretty crazy things with temp guns even really good expensive ones.
The best way to tell is look at the amount of smoke you have at the end of the straight away.
It should be kinda heavy when you first nail the throttle then thin out by the end of the straight.
This all depends on the size of the track too.
I always tune my engine's in the street where there is lots of room for maximum power then go from there at the track depending on temps and the smoke.
Remember the key if you see smoke the engine is getting properly lubed.
I see guys over and over again trying to get the most power out of an engine by leaning it out and they are always the guys playing with the needles the most and have the most flame outs.
Tune for decent power and keep in mind the price of a new engine when you are leaning it out more.
Unless price is no object for you :D
not me

nigru

03-05-2006, 05:38 AM

ok so if I dont go to check the temp with a gun, how can I be sure that the engine is not overheating??

Mika

03-05-2006, 06:11 AM

By listening to it.
I very rarely use a heat gun with any engine, I see little use. And I can tell my engines last long, as long as anyone's.
Also, this 15 second test is good: After driving few minutes or so, stop your car for 15 secs on idle, then give it a go with full throttle. It should start with smoke, not very good but still going before clearing out after a while. If it starts really well then you are running too lean, if it stalls or boggles badly then it is too rich. I think this is a good test. Now, you can debate if 15 secs is the proper time but I think it is.
Also, listen to other racers engines, especially those guys' who can make it to A-mains.

nigru

03-05-2006, 09:17 AM

Ok I try that, I already heard about this test but I only waited 5sec instead of 15sec! Another question on the mp777. When I open to full throttle, the buggy during the accelleration has the tendency to steer a bit to the lest, and when it is moving at a steady speed, then it moves perfectly straight. I reset all the settings as the manual but stayed the same. Why is this happenning??? Thanks

dgrobe2112

03-06-2006, 01:10 AM

could be anything from tires not being exactly the same.. when you get on it.. and one wheel will baloon up.. but another wont.. that sorta deal.. also, when the engine is at full pitch like that, the vibration on the chassis could cause a very slight glitch.. and make it pull one direction.. try swappin the 2 front tires.. left to right, and right to left.. and see if it pulls the other directin

J_Bone

03-06-2006, 06:41 AM

When a 4wd rc pulls to the left, it can be form chassis flex. Every 4wd from my Monster trucks to every buggy I have ever driven has a tendency to pull to the left, especially on the street or high traction but when I get on the track it's less noticeable. Also just like dgrode2112 said, one tire that is un-weighted form either turning or chassis flex will make the one tire have a higher final drive ration and high top speed.
In other words, I would not worry too much about it. If it rolls to one side or the other off power, then I would say check your drive line form the hubs all the way to the center diff.

AreCee

03-06-2006, 08:30 AM

Or it could be a frozen bearing in the hub.

dgrobe2112

03-06-2006, 10:06 AM

Got a great indoor setup.. i will post later tonight.. for clay, smooth high bite track.. Jay.. you will like the setup..

Monsterbrad

03-06-2006, 06:08 PM

I race on clay also looking forward to seeing that.
Switch's are the best tire where I am at.
I am going to get a chance to wheel the buggy this weekend have a loner RG and I ordered a new jp-1 pipe yesterday evening.
I am excited :)

JamminJay

03-06-2006, 06:18 PM

Got a great indoor setup.. i will post later tonight.. for clay, smooth high bite track.. Jay.. you will like the setup..

I assume you meant me? since I race indoor clay? Only thing is you have the sp2 conversion now dont you? I am only running the sp1....thanx, i'd love to see it.

Switches are ok where i race... however alot of people use Losi pink cut taper pins. I mounted up my first set a couple weeks ago. used them yesterday in my second heat, and the car stuck to the track like glue, far more superior than the switches. I had tons of power, plenty of on-power steering and even more off-power obviously. i couldn't believe the difference.

dgrobe2112

03-06-2006, 07:19 PM

yeah, jay, i was talkin bout you.. the track we raced on Indy RC, indoor, clay, high bite, pretty smooth, didnt rut or anything like that, and some really tight stuff. I ran Panther STingers, also ran Treadz Cubics, they were both really good. here is the setup i ended up with. Yes Jay, i run the SP2

MP777 SP2 Indy RC Setup
========================

Front:
------

Oil.............. AE 60wt
Pistons.......... 1.4x2 pistons
Spring........... Kyosho SP2 White
Ride height ..... Bones level
Shock pos........ Inside on arm, Middle on tower
Shock travel..... Full, but make sure it is limited
Ackerman pos..... Back
Sway bar......... Stock (2mm preload)
Front Caster..... 22 Degrees
Caster Hole...... Middle (long upper arms)
Upper arm pos.... Low (L)
Front kickup..... A block upper and lower
Diff oil......... 5000wt
Camber........... -2 degrees
Toe.............. -2.0 degrees out per side
Tires............ Panther Stinger
Foams............ Stock foam

Center:
-------

Diff............. 7000wt
Brakes........... Craddock
Spur Gear........ Lightweight 46 tooth
Clutch Bell...... 13 tooth
Clutch Shoes..... 2 carbon, 1 alum
Clutch Springs... Kyosho 1.0mm
Engine........... Top P5
Cooling Head..... Stock
Tuned pipe....... OS T-2050
Fuel............. Rocket Science Racing Fuel, 30%
Glow plug........ Racers Edge #4
Radio............ Ko Propo Helios
Steering Servo... Ko Propo PDS2364ICS
Throttle Servo... Ko Propo PDS2363FET

Rear:
-----

Oil.............. AE 40wt
Pistons.......... 1.4x2 pistons
Spring........... Kyosho SP2 Blue
Ride height ..... Bones Level
Shock pos........ Inside on arm, Three from inside on tower
Rear hub......... Lower hole, middle
Camber link...... Outside on hub, Inside middle on tower
Camber........... -3.5
Antisquat........ 2 degrees
Toe in........... 2.0 degrees
Diff oil......... 2000wt
Shock travel..... Limited about 2mm less than full
Sway bar......... Stock (2mm preload)
Wing position.... Flat
Tires............ Panther Stinger
Foams............ Stock foam

Monsterbrad

03-06-2006, 09:06 PM

Very nice
I hate starter boxes !
Messed with mine tonight thinking about getting a battery for it instead of lugging around a car battery.
Even though the car battery will last a very long time.
Have any of you guys seen the wood cut outs for the 777 chassis installed on the ofna chrome top starter boxes?
they work sweet

J_Bone

03-06-2006, 09:53 PM

AreCee

03-06-2006, 11:36 PM

He's talking about a form that's shaped like the chassis of the 777 and is screwed onto the starter box replacing the positioning pegs. I saw those on A Main Hobbies' site though they looked more like routed out plastic than wood.

Monsterbrad

03-07-2006, 05:13 PM

There is a company making some that are made out of aluminum too.
I am going to take my buggy to the shop and get one of the CNC guys to make me up one.
I am using the pegs for now but guys complain that they move around after a while.
I am charging my deep cycle car battery for it too.
We'll see how long that lasts compared to the batteries that you can buy to put inside the box. It's easier but the car battery will hopefuly take a while to die.
I am going to be running an OS RG with a JP-1 pipe.

dgrobe2112

03-07-2006, 05:22 PM

i use a mugen starter box.. nice and light.. dont gotta haul around a heavy box.. and the starter box fits in my hauler bag, and dont make it too heavy.

AreCee

03-07-2006, 05:52 PM

That's a nice box. I also like the Associated Electric's box with the 775 motor once your .21 is broken in.

Monsterbrad

03-07-2006, 07:18 PM

I got the chrome top cause I had one way back when I had my Hyper 7 pro.
I liked it then cause it would run forever on a car battery.
I may have to switch if I get into the buggy thing heavily.
Anybody running the Novarossi T21BF
I have been told this is a very good engine that will run with pretty much any of the higher priced engine's.

J_Bone

03-08-2006, 08:52 PM

I am going to be running an OS RG with a JP-1 pipe.

I prefered the JP-2 wit my RG. I give it more top end but doesn't rob the bottom end too much. The JP-1 has no mid to top end at all while giving good bottom end.

buggynic

03-08-2006, 09:54 PM

hi,

I need opinion on how is kyosho optional rear chassis brace (rear torque rod) compare to other aftermarket chassis brace. the parts no is IF323 ( if i remembered it correctly).
I am thinking maybe it is good to have more flex on my rear end.

thanks

AreCee

03-08-2006, 11:45 PM

Those are too new to tell since very few stores even have them in stock yet. They are a heavier duty version of the standard torque rods. So yes the chassis will flex some.

StevePond

03-09-2006, 01:11 AM

AreCee, almost all of the team drivers (except the ones that are paid to run other stuff) are using these new chassis braces. They solve the issue of the old rod ends wearing out for those that didn't like to replace them once in a while, and the new torque rods still allow some torsional flex. We sent these braces to about a dozen team drivers and 11 of them reported back that there was a noticeable improvement in performance. It's especially obvious on slick tricks. They're also about 1/4 the cost of the aftermarket jewelry pieces that some drivers assume you "must have," and they work better.

AreCee

03-09-2006, 07:50 AM

Steve, thanks for the reply. I plan to get a set once they become available.

nigru

03-09-2006, 03:10 PM

I know this room is for the mp777. But can someone give the needle settings of a vz-b v-spec pls? Cause I know that the engine can give more.....

Monsterbrad

03-09-2006, 05:15 PM

OS engines normally like to start with flush with the throttle barrol and 2-1/2 turns out from stop on the high end to start.
Try that.
Well the track I am racing on is very small so the Jp-1 should work good then.
This is not my engine I am probably going to get a Novarossi N21BF.
Thats why I got the Jp-1 pipe cause the guys at the track say its better with that motor then the 2.
I'll see how the RG acts saturday afternoon.
First time racing with a buggy
Been a truggy guy since the start.

J_Bone

03-09-2006, 08:19 PM

AreCee

03-09-2006, 08:24 PM

Go to Speedtechrc.com and look at the hop up section for 777 chassis parts. IF323 is the number.

Monsterbrad

03-09-2006, 09:56 PM

A little off topic but there truggy being a truggy racer that I am plus the addition of the new buggy now .....
I really like there truggy
Looks sweet
If it handles and has the parts and fit finish that the buggy does it will be hard to beat.

supralative

03-10-2006, 03:27 AM

whats up everyone
been awhile

took 3rd in the Spring Fever Shootout up here in Tulsa, OK this past weekend
there was almost 30 entries in Sportsman

the Action RC Team took home money in each class

Jerald Hawthorne 2nd Expert 1/8 Buggy Kyosho 777 SP2
Trevor Turner 1st Unlimited Monster Truck Jammin X1 CRT(Jeralds truggy)
Brandon Howe 2nd Unlimited Monster Truck Jammin X1 CRT
Son Nguyen(me) 3rd Sportman 1/8 Buggy Kyosho 777 SP1
James Dibble 2nd Monster Truck Traxxas Revo

Monsterbrad

03-10-2006, 04:44 PM

the sp-1 gets its first work out tomorrow
This is going to be interesting

jmcn r

03-11-2006, 10:47 PM

hello all,
i know this may have been covered somewhere but i cannot find it right now. i am wondering if the following parts for the SP2 will also fit the SP1?:

rear arm mount
front upper suspension holder
front lower suspension holder
rear toe plate
front/rear torque arms/chassis brace

thanks in advance for any help.

supralative

03-11-2006, 11:39 PM

all the stuff will work

sp2 differs with longer shock shafts in the rear, different shock towers, 2 degre anti squat plate, longer chassis, repositioned compenents, longer front center universal, and maybe a couple of other small things

jmcn r

03-12-2006, 12:10 AM

thanks alot for the quick response supra :) .

just checking to make sure first, i see some manufacturers such as King Headz have some of these same parts listed seperately for the SP1 and 2 so i was a bit confused that in the changes made for the SP2 it affected those areas for mounting and such.

thanks :D

dgrobe2112

03-12-2006, 02:38 AM

buggynic

03-12-2006, 04:15 AM

dgrobe,

is the plastic ball end on the new kyosho chassis brace strong enough ? hopefully it available as separate parts as we might need to change it once it worn out.

rgds

jmcn r

03-12-2006, 03:39 PM

I dont know why this website dont email me on new responses.. so i missed a lot on here..

jmcn.. the parts you are looking at, i beleive those are all option parts.. that your wanting to upgrade.. right?? all those peices work on the SP2. Rear toe blocks, rear squat plates, front upper L/H block, Lower A/B block, and front and rear Chassis braces work on both cars..

I beleive you say rear arm mount.. i think your refering to the rear squat plate. and yes, it will work on both cars.

I have noticed a the car has a better difference in handling from using Racers Edge chassis braces to the new Kyosho chassis braces.

yes exactly! thanks alot dgrobe thats everything i was asking about. :)
i was going off of the titles that King Headz associated with those parts. i dont know why they have listed certain parts like those listed SP1/SP2 specific (that i had read up on previously and it was said that they are no different to SP1).

i have been unable to keep track of these things any at all for the last half year almost so i was a bit lost. going to get everything back on track over the next week though :cool:

thanks again DG.

now i just need to see if all of those parts will also work with the Hot Bodies LSP so i can try kill two birds with one stone when i go on a shopping frenzy :p

dgrobe2112

03-12-2006, 10:20 PM

dgrobe2112

03-12-2006, 10:25 PM

dgrobe,

is the plastic ball end on the new kyosho chassis brace strong enough ? hopefully it available as separate parts as we might need to change it once it worn out.

rgds

yes, the ball end is better than the stock one. I have not had any issues with the new braces, however, we did an exhibition at the monster truck show that came to town. We set up jumps and such, kinda like they did at the RCX show. I took the car on some big jumps, doing backflips, and big air jumps, like 30-40 feet in the air. Landing flat, and hard, the front brace did pop off, from under the front bulkhead brace. The one to the front of the car, up under the aluminum top plate. But it did not ever pop off during racing or anything like that. it actually takes quite a bit to get them to pop off..

dgrobe2112

03-12-2006, 10:26 PM

BTW, if im not mistaken, i think it is the same as the upper arm piece, i will double check. Maybe Steve will know for sure.

jmcn r

03-13-2006, 04:54 PM

JM, some parts are compatable, like front knuckles, i beleive the toe blocks and stuff work also, however, have to be used in conjunction with other 777 parts, meaning.. to use a Rear toe block from an MP777, you must also use the front squat plate. In order for the Aftermarket part to be true, meaning, if you want to put 3deg rear toe in the car, and use the aftermarket 3deg toe block, you cant just add that to the LSP without having 777 squat plate, if you have LSP squat plate on there, the toe may not be the same. understand? kinda hard to explain.

I dont beleive the front upper blocks will work. as i dont beleive the front lower blocks will work either.

thanks again DG for further clarifying for me.
yeah i hear you, certain of those pieces need to be used in conjunction with another particular part as you were highlighting.

i am going to be picking up an LSP more than likely soon and was considering a 777 as well....
even though i have nowhere to race them unless i travel with them LOL! :p