Inferno MP777

[dgrobe2112]

Thats what is fun.. go traveling, meet new people, race against other people in the area, or region. I travel all over Texas to race. Got a good crew of travelers that go with me, so, it makes it fun. I enjoy racing against faster people to get better. I have noticed a considerable improvement in my driving, my lines, everything, more consistant, i actually contribute alot of it to the SP1, working so hard to get that car dialed, and learning setup, that the SP2 came out, and now i can really press..

[Monsterbrad]

Got the car running saturday night.
Did pretty well with it 2nd place in the main and in the top 3 all 3 heats.
I am very impressed so far.
Ordered a Novarossi 21BF motor for it and I already have the JP-1 pipe.
I also have an LSP pro and pro-r that is not running yet.
I like the new 777 truggy from what I am seeing and I am not sure if I will go all Kyosho in the future or not.
I like the way you can push the buggy harder and it drives better.
If the truggy handles like the buggy it may be hard not to try one.
Hope to get the new motor broke in and ready for this comming weekend.

[buggynic]

yes, the ball end is better than the stock one. I have not had any issues with the new braces, however, we did an exhibition at the monster truck show that came to town. We set up jumps and such, kinda like they did at the RCX show. I took the car on some big jumps, doing backflips, and big air jumps, like 30-40 feet in the air. Landing flat, and hard, the front brace did pop off, from under the front bulkhead brace. The one to the front of the car, up under the aluminum top plate. But it did not ever pop off during racing or anything like that. it actually takes quite a bit to get them to pop off..

Thanks for the info dgrobe,
I will get one once it available in hobby shop here.
I really like sp2 after almost a year playing with XB8. Dont know why, I just could not set it right, the rear end is too wild for me.
some people say sp2 rear end is also wild, but to me it much controllable then XB8.
one thing I still think XB8 is better is when the car jump in the air.
i feel my XB8 jump more stable in the air, but anyway I might need to learn how to jump :)

[dgrobe2112]

The SP2, is not as dancy in the rear as the SP1 was. I know that the Xray is either on or off.. no in between.. problem with that is if you got someone posting setups that is dialed for a certain track.. its only dialed if you drive that that person who gave the setup..

SP2, however, you can get a basic setup, and it almost works for everyone.. My setup i use works everywhere, except indoor, which i posted my indoor setup.. wonder how JamminJay likes it.. but, that setup is not far off from my standard setup..

When you say a wild rear end.. what is it doing?? any questions you have?? may post your setup, and track you run on.. and might could give some suggestions to make it more planted..

[dgrobe2112]

Brad, you will love the 21BF, that thing is a great engine, for the price. I got a new P5 in the Box, but never took it out, cuz the 21BF, has all the power i need sofar, and tunes so easy.. runs round 235-240 power range.. great motor..

[buggynic]

Hi dgrobe,

I am running on relatively small-med track with loose layer on top,

here is my SP2 setup

Front
------

Diff 5000 Kyosho
Shock oil 60 Trinity
Shock spring Blue Kyosho
Shock spacer 4 mm
Shock piston stock white (1.4 mm?)
Shock position in front arm – Inside
Shock position at tower - middle hole
Caster block 20 degree
A-Block
L-Block
Stock/default A-B and L-H bushing
Upper arm pos on chub - middle
SP2 short upper arm used
Toe in – 0 degree
Camber – 4 degree
Steering plate C / rear position
Roll bar – stock – flush with the ball position/ 0 mm


Center
-------
Diff 7000 Kyosho
Stock spur and pinion gear 46/13
Black Kyosho clutch shoe with RB WS72


Rear
-----

Diff 3000 Kyosho
Shock 40 Trinity
Spring Green Kyosho
Shock spacer 10mm
Shock piston stock white (1.4mm?)
Shock position in rear arm - Inside
Shock position at tower – upper row – second from inside
Wheel base 3mm spacer front - 2 mm spacer rear
Rear hub pos – under
Upper arm position on hub – outer / longest
Upper arm position on tower – inner – lowest position
Roll bar – stock – flush position / 0 mm
Toe in 3 degree
Camber 4 degree
Gold 2 degree plate

The rear end is controllable but my only complaint is the car is understeer.
I want to get more steering.
maybe too much camber, i am not sure, any comments ?

when i say wild is that the rear end is very twichy when i apply some throttle.
my xb8 rear end is very bad, 'fish-tailing' everytime i applied throttle, especially when turning.
I am just a weekend racer and still learning better throttle management but I guess i am not that bad on it now :)

great forum we have here, as good as Xray forum in their website.

kyosho just won the pre-world, hopefully it was SP2 :)
I dont want to start 'flame' on why the championship is going to be held here in Jakarta I have seen enough of that , but sincerely I wish I could see u guys racing here for the next world championship.

many thanks

[jmcn r]

Thats what is fun.. go traveling, meet new people, race against other people in the area, or region. I travel all over Texas to race. Got a good crew of travelers that go with me, so, it makes it fun. I enjoy racing against faster people to get better. I have noticed a considerable improvement in my driving, my lines, everything, more consistant, i actually contribute alot of it to the SP1, working so hard to get that car dialed, and learning setup, that the SP2 came out, and now i can really press..


baaaahhh...yes i always read you guys having chats on these boards and many of you are familiar with each other regardless of location due to travelling with your RCs. :cool:

unfortunatly for me if i really want to "travel" ...and by that i mean overseas to my home in Jamaica i have to deal with some severe hassels regarding what i can and cannot carry on the plane (much less fit). then even worse the country has one of the worst nightmare examples of a customs policy which literally wants to rip you apart when you return to the country with stuff like electronics.

when i did get to race it was when i was in Florida more permanently for school. even then my time there was limited, but i did get around between Miami, FT Lauderdale and Tampa and tried a few tracks :D . your right DG...thats where the fun is. it was even more fun knowing that i was just messing around with wtvr i had to run at the time.

anyway, going to definatly grab a LSP-r by this weekend...then probably a 777 within the next couple months and leaving that in the states permanently...

ahh....so little time, so little money :rolleyes:

[dgrobe2112]

[QUOTE=buggynic]Hi dgrobe,

I am running on relatively small-med track with loose layer on top,

here is my SP2 setup

Front
------

Diff 5000 Kyosho
Shock oil 60 Trinity
Shock spring Blue Kyosho
Shock spacer 4 mmfront just above level
Shock piston stock white (1.4 mm?)
Shock position in front arm – Inside
Shock position at tower - middle hole
Caster block 20 degree
A-Block
L-Block
Stock/default A-B and L-H bushing
Upper arm pos on chub - middle
SP2 short upper arm used
Toe in – 0 degree<--go to 2 deg toe out
Camber – 4 degree<--go to -2 deg
Steering plate C / rear position
Roll bar – stock – flush with the ball position/ 0 mm


Center
-------
Diff 7000 Kyosho
Stock spur and pinion gear 46/13
Black Kyosho clutch shoe with RB WS72


Rear
-----

Diff 3000 Kyosho<--2k here will increase steering going in off power
Shock 40 Trinity
Spring Green Kyosho
Shock spacer 10mm rear level
Shock piston stock white (1.4mm?)
Shock position in rear arm - Inside
Shock position at tower – upper row – second from inside <--3rd from inside is my location, i havent tested much with changing these, but i know the more stood up the shocks are, the tighter the car is on power
Wheel base 3mm spacer front - 2 mm spacer rear
Rear hub pos – under
Upper arm position on hub – outer / longest
Upper arm position on tower – inner – lowest position
Roll bar – stock – flush position / 0 mm
Toe in 3 degree
Camber 4 degree<--i would go 2.5-3 max
Gold 2 degree plate

The rear end is controllable but my only complaint is the car is understeer.
I want to get more steering.
maybe too much camber, i am not sure, any comments?

based off your previous post, i assume its understeer going into the corners. If thats the case, the front end changes i marked would make a huge difference. Also, with the 20deg castor blocks on the front, you should have more turn in, but i would think you may be driving to hard into the corners. I have noticed that the wheels lock when the front wheels are turned under hard braking, i get all my braking done in the straight before the corner, and just a tad before i try to pitch the rear around, by having just a little more rear brake bias than front.

The changes on front toe out, will also help with the "wild" rear on power as well

Also, the rear camber change and rear shock location will allow the car to roll better into the corners off power as well, also the 2k in the rear diff will help with that as well.

Another note, the springs i use with 60/40 are white in front and blue in rear. This will also help the car level out in the air, and get up in the air. only when the track gets rough do i go to blue green combo, and i also change oils, to 55/35 or 50/35

Sorry for the long post, try some of these things, see how it works for you. I run a 2.5 block on the rear, however, i go to 3deg when the track is loose as you say. But, if for some reason these changes make the rear too planted on power, going to the 2.5 will be the ticket for that.

Let me know how it works out for you. Post some more comments, or questions, i try to frequent this board, and help when i know the answer, but if i dont know it, i try to find it.

[buggynic]

thanks for the great help Dgrobe !!

I cant wait to try and let you know the result.

[dgrobe2112]

i cant wait to hear the result.. :)

[AreCee]

Your set-up is very similar to the one we use at our indoor track. Which tires do you use? The Panther Switch C is the choice here.

[buggynic]

I use crimefighter.
it has been raining all night :( I guess i have to wait till weekend to test my new setup

rgds

[dgrobe2112]

buggy nic.. the setup i posted a few pages back is the one i ended up with for a long sweeper, to get the car to stick tight on the pipe.. without pushing.. we used panther switch c as well.. great tire.. they just dont last that long..

[jmcn r]

Hey 777 guys...i just wanted a quick thought from any of you on the out of the box SP1. I was hoping to have picked up an LSP-r by this weekend and later follow it by a Kyosho 777 buggy. That is why i wanted to know about parts interchangability between the two of them earlier. However I have been looking around more and more at the LSP situation and realise that especially with living abroad and travelling back and forth I have alot more access to Kyosh/777 parts than HB/LSP stuff.....

Now i am thinking about trying to pick up one of the leftover 777 SP1 kits for real cheap before they sell out...or even a Standard 777 by this weekend and later get the 777 ST-R in a couple months once people start sorting them out ;)

Can any of you guys give a basic idea when it comes to the 777 basic or SP-1 what upgrades are a MUST to start off with? I am talking about stuff to change before i even get running that might save me from damage later on?
the little bit of browsing i haven't hear you guys really having much trouble with the buggy.....but doesn't hurt to check.

also if i get the Standard 777 and the SP2 conversion...what other parts do i need to complete the conversion? I had the info saved on another computer from last year but no access right now.


man...i am rushing through this stuff to buy something by this weekend...lol :D

[dgrobe2112]

If you get your hands on an SP1, we have some setup posts a few pages back that will help you with setup on the car.. pretty much the same ast he SP2, except a few minor changes, cuz the SP1 had a happy rear end.

You will not need to upgrade anything from the SP1. The kit is the race kit, that all the top drivers used when the car was used. Might consider the new blue Kyosho chassis braces, tougher, last longer than the stock ones.. The towers and other parts on the car are all beefier than the stock 777. get you a 5.5mm wrench to adjust the steering links and camber, and your pretty well set. other than a set of tires, and a slick paint job.

If you get the regular 777, it does not have the hard anodized chassis, so, i would suggest some chassis braces. Also, the aluminum on the regular car is not as beefy as the SP1, so the towers i would upgrade as well. there are plenty of companies out there with hopups for the car. but for these parts, you can go to www.racers-edge.com for some towers, and braces, and other very nice pieces as well, all hard anodize, and last forever.

Also, the regular 777 does not come with adjustable rod ends, or camber links. they are a piece of all thread, i would highly, highly reccommend getting some adjustable turnbuckles for tuning and setup options. other than those peices, you should be good to go.. with the exception of the bling parts the SP1 comes with.

you may also consider getting the SP1, then a SP2 conversion kit. that way your up to date, and it comes with hopped up thicker milled towers, and new chassis, and universals, and 2deg squat plate.. so.. you knock 2 birds out with one stone, and got the top dawg.. :)

[jmcn r]

hmmm.....DG....i don't know how many praises i should send your way...let me check my balance and send them all! :D lol thanks thats a pretty comprehensive response.

what i was really curious about was the 777 standard. i was thinking about grabbing the regular 777 and loading it from the get go with suitable engine/servo combo...bring it out here and just have some fun getting used to it with some friends... even though we dont have a proper set of races.

then later when i return to the States for school getting an SP2 conversion kit and the rest of the necessary pieces and bringing it to full SP2 specs so i can get to a regular racing schedule. there was an ebay store that had info on the standard 777 conversion to SP2 but they are not selling the conversion kit anymore so i can't find the info on it.

thats really what i want to try find out....what other parts will i need to convert the standard 777 to SP2.
lol with that figured out i think i will have all possible options evaluated.

wow......i have too many serious options to go through in just a few days.

thanks DG, people like you make the selection process alot easier.

[dgrobe2112]

Im glad i can help.. the conversion kit is what is neeed to get the car up to SP2 specs. The regular 777 is a great kit car, one of the best kits for the price. ball bearing steering, and everything like that, just not the bling blue aluminum pieces that the SP1 or SP2 comes with, like radio post, and wing mounts, and blue engine mounts, and stuff like that. the SP2 comes with 5mm milled towers now, which is nice, the SP1, and MP777 come with the thinner towers, the SP1 towers are very tough, very tough, the regular towers are kinda on the weak side, and also limited on mounting holes for setup. I forgot to mention the regular comes with dogbones in the center and rear, whereas the SP1 comes with universals.

SP2 conversion kit comes with
SP2 chassis
front and rear 5mm shock towers
rear 2deg squat plate
front and rear center universals
longer steering rod from servo to servo saver
longer steering links from servo saver to knuckles
new updated front and rear springs (longer than SP1 springs)

I think thats the major stuff..

the SP2 conversion kit is sold out just about everywhere, i think our hobby shop has it in stock, not sure on price though.

The reg 777 is a great car, i seen alot of them on the track, with very minimal upgrades, its a competative car, and durable.

www.racers-edge.com has alot of hopups on sale for the 777 buggy.. half price..

[AreCee]

You might also note the the standard 777 comes with regular diffs just like the SP2 whereas the SP1 comes with a front TCD diff which most people replace with the regular diff.

Also the SP2 conversion kit comes with new hinge pins, shock pins, radio plate, screws and rear longer shock shafts. So if you get a great deal on a standard 777 and the SP2 conversion kit then it will cost less than a new SP2 kit.

To save money, the rear dogbones will be fine until you want to pop another $30-40 for rear unis.

[jmcn r]

thanks alot for all the support guys! its greatly appreciated!

i believe i have most of the small details i need to know before getting myself into this sorted out now...just have to make a decision and grab one of these respective kits by hopefully Friday (i am very compulsive when i have my mind on something..i must have it :D )

thanks again guys, its that kinda help that cements people as great contributors to the hobby and what makes this hobby such a great sport! :cool:


will keep you guys updated as to what i get...especially if its from the big K instead of HB ;)

[dgrobe2112]

let us know.. glad to help.. AreCee, i forgot bout those things.. long time ago.. hahah..

JM, be sure to post any questions you have, and we will be glad to help out..

[hourocket3]

Quick question, I am about to pick up a NIB 777 sp2 and I was wondering what servos out there are good for this model? I know there are tons of servos, im not looking at the digital ones, but ones that can get the job done, when it comes to servos I am kindof lost, just looking for some opinions, thanks.

[supralative]

Quick question, I am about to pick up a NIB 777 sp2 and I was wondering what servos out there are good for this model? I know there are tons of servos, im not looking at the digital ones, but ones that can get the job done, when it comes to servos I am kindof lost, just looking for some opinions, thanks.


i run Airtronics 94358's and 94359's
200z of torque at like .16 i believe
only difference in the two is the 359's have an aluminum heat sink case

[dgrobe2112]

airtronics is good.. i had probs with them last year, and switched to digi..
you can get the Futaba 9350, digi's, for less.. same servos kanai uses..

Me personally, i run Ko Propo 2365, 2366 digi servo.. butter smooth.. work great.. but cost bout 20 bux more than the 9350's..

[AreCee]

I've been using the Futaba 9350 for steering and 9451 for throt/brake for two years with no problems. These are also bargains at $99 and $79 respectively.

[dgrobe2112]

and the 9350 is butter smooth too..

[hourocket3]

Thanks for the inputs, ill start looking at the futabas

[Monsterbrad]

I run Hitec cause that's what was in the buggy when I got it.
They are both digital.
They work well but are not as silky smooth as the KO's are.
I like Any servo that holds up and works well.
What are most of you guys running on the steering????

[buggynic]

hi dgrobe.

I just came back from my local track with the new setup.
I set everything according your suggestion except for 2k rear diff, still using 3K.

now I have the steering. but with 3 degree rear camber I felt the rear end of the car is a bit twitchy, i added some more camber in rear and a little bit on front camber too.
The car was more stable after that. tommorow I will try 2K in the rear diff.

the big challenge is that I have is to jump on one section of the track.
I found it was very difficult to make the car flying flat in the air and land safely.
the ramp is around 40cm high, and i have to jump over the obstacle for around 3-3.5 meters (not sure, will check the exact lenght tommorow).
any tip on how to make a high speed jump ? with my previous XB8 it seems very easy.

one more thing, i forgot to zipties the air filter, it fall off from the carb and lots of dirt went inside my ws72 :(
Time to break in my new P5 - any info on factory default needle setting ? cant find it on the manual.

sorry for the long post.

thanks alot.

[J_Bone]

buggy nic,
try raising your rear camber link up one hole, maybe to the top. I actually run mine in the top hole and it works good at my track.
One thing to remember, if the track is really loose, then it's going to be loose regaurdless what buggy or setup you run.

[dgrobe2112]

Like JB said.. if the track is loose.. car will be loose.. nothing you can do bout that, but slow down some.. so, you got your car turning like you like?? thats good, the jumping thing, i dont know, unless there is some weird angle on the jump.. or something like that.. the Xray jumps good, but my SP2 is very stable in the air. not jumping level? have you checked.. your droop screws? make sure they are the same.. but other than that.. hard to tell..

[Monsterbrad]

My SP-1 is a great jumper.
I have found that just driving the buggy a little slower has actually made me faster cause you make fewer mistakes and it's easier on the car too

[jmcn r]

hey all....do any of you have experience or opinions on Hitecs higher end servos such as the 925 and 945? Although i have used a couple 645s for bashing and thrilled to bits about them i don't know what their race grade servos are like.

pretty much all my other experience with servos have been Futabas....but I really like what I see from the Hitec TG line so wouldnt mind setting up the truggy or buggy to come with Hitecs offerings...

just don't want to do so without hearing some of you guys first.

going to go look up other peoples finding elsewhere now as well.

[dgrobe2112]

for the same price, you can get Futaba 9350. They are digital servos, great holding power.. same servo kanai uses on his buggy.. heat sink case.. great servo for less than 100 bux

[Tonks]

Hitec makes some really competitive servos! The TG line is the best and for big buggys just rembember if your going to be a bear be a Grizzly bear!!! In other words bigger is best...

[AreCee]

I'm with DG on this one. The 925 and 945 are not worth it, if you insist on getting Hitec get the 5925 or 5945 ($100 to $110) digital servos or the TG ($120 to $130)ones as mentioned above, however, these cost more than the Futabas ($80 to $100)and don't hold up as well.

I used to be a Hitec fan and still have a couple 5925 servos but I'll probably never buy another because the Futabas are smoother and work better in both of my buggies.

[jmcn r]

I'm with DG on this one. The 925 and 945 are not worth it, if you insist on getting Hitec get the 5925 or 5945 ($100 to $110) digital servos or the TG ($120 to $130)ones as mentioned above, however, these cost more than the Futabas ($80 to $100)and don't hold up as well.

I used to be a Hitec fan and still have a couple 5925 servos but I'll probably never buy another because the Futabas are smoother and work better in both of my buggies.

thanks guys....

thank you especially AreCee!!!! i already checked out the Hitec line and knew them pretty well but for some reason i totally missed that there was a difference in the 5925/5945 and the 925/945!! i did not notice the different labeling at all between the standards and digitals...thanks.

i wouldn't have really looked at the Hitecs in the first place if it wasn't for the TG line. probably will just leave those for truggy abuse.

[jmcn r]

rofl....i think i am going to scare away alll the 777 guys soon with all these start up questions. :p well if thats the case you guys give me a line when you are ready to ditch those buggys :D

I have a couple 1/10 starter boxs laying around but they wont work well with anything bigger.
ssoooo.....i am looking for a starter box to use on the buggy AND a truggy, i know people seem to have a hard time fitting both sometimes (read it here too). most people seem to be happy with the chrome top ofna. also seen alot with the Mugen box but i know other say fitment with a variety of vehciles can be problematic.

who uses the chrome top for 1/8th buggy and the truggies?

[AreCee]

Chrome top (OFNA 10253 w/power panel)

[dgrobe2112]

chrome top is prolly the best box there is, lots of power, turns over almost any motor.. big enough for anything.

I think i will be able to get my mugen box to line up wih both buggy and truggy.. but i dont know yet.. i know for a fact the mugen box is too small for the MSR truggy.. haha

[jmcn r]

thanks again for the input guys! lol love the part with the Mugen box not working with its own brand truggy. :p



feel myself getting closer to getting a 777....
still have the LSP strongly on my mind though!

[J_Bone]

jmcn r,
I've been using a Hitec 5945 for over 3 years now. No problems at all and if there was a problem, Hitec's customer service is next to none! I've also been using a 925 on my Gas Truck for over a year and every race it has fuel splashed all over it. But these are the high end ones. The 625's and 645's are not good at all. I've destroyed 4 of those.
But, I am running a Air 359 in my buggy now and it's definitely a smoother servo. I'm in the process of buying a 357 or 358 for throttle.


LSP....Don't do it. If you want a truggy for a low price, get the Jammin CRT. WOW, I just recommended an OFNA...lol..
My buddies have raced them in the past and they take a lot of upgrades to make it race able but it will still be lacking. It has the widest turning radius in all RC's. I'm wanting the 777 ST-R.. :p

[JamminJay]

I'm wanting the 777 ST-R.. :p


Amen!!!!!

[jmcn r]

jmcn r,
I've been using a Hitec 5945 for over 3 years now. No problems at all and if there was a problem, Hitec's customer service is next to none! I've also been using a 925 on my Gas Truck for over a year and every race it has fuel splashed all over it. But these are the high end ones. The 625's and 645's are not good at all. I've destroyed 4 of those.
But, I am running a Air 359 in my buggy now and it's definitely a smoother servo. I'm in the process of buying a 357 or 358 for throttle.


LSP....Don't do it. If you want a truggy for a low price, get the Jammin CRT. WOW, I just recommended an OFNA...lol..
My buddies have raced them in the past and they take a lot of upgrades to make it race able but it will still be lacking. It has the widest turning radius in all RC's. I'm wanting the 777 ST-R.. :p

hehe thanks for the pointers on servos JB!

eh, I hear that alot about the LSPs...but I know with the right tweaks and tuning it seems to sort itself out. tp be honest right now it is still my favourite of the truggy contenders. the only reason why i didnt buy one this week was because i am looking at a Kyosho combo :D the advantage to the LSP is over a year of racer R&D going into them to find the fixes from guys such as CRSMP5...but then again many of those original LSP racers have gone MSR or Jammin so that could be a sign too :p

CRT....i keep reading owners (the realistic ones) over and over stating of the CRT wearing itself out pretty quickly and requiring race to race high maintenance to stay together, all to get sloppy after a handful of big ones. i know Jammin/Ofna has updated somethings to help them out...but its still there.

I am wanting the ST-R too..............there is no way that the big K could dissapoint right?!?!?

JB....maybe you need to disable my browser or something so i don't go and compulsive buy an LSP tomorow. :D maybe i should just find a reason to stay out longer at the rally so i don't come home to the comp!

[Monsterbrad]

As some of you probably know I am the monster truck nut on here.
I race the LSP and I have to say first off the new Kyosho truuggy looks sweet but it will be pricy like all the 777 stuff is.
So with saying that
I raced the LSP all summer last year and it only broke once when I crashed it very hard into some re bar at the track.
I can say that there are ways to get the truck to steer awesome using some simple Kyosho up grades in the front end.
The Ofna CRT I have also heard eats front end parts cause as some of us know Ofna Plastic is well junk for the most part.
Anybody that says a buggy is a buggy is right but if you want the best and most reliable there are a select few that are the best.

[Mika]

Here's my stuff waiting to be raced pic1 (http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/gear.jpg) pic2 (http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/gear2.jpg)

[dgrobe2112]

Mika, looks good.. where did you get that black and white kyosho sticker on your wing??

[Mika]

Thanks DG
Stickers are by a guy named Maurizio Fantinel from Italy .. check out www.maugrafix.com He also makes pretty cool custom driver logos, you can see one on my car as well

[Monsterbrad]

I like the green
Looks sweet

[Mika]

Yeah, it is ok.. simple coloring is good on track. As you can see I've made two sets of shocks, with a stiffer and softer setup. On the softer setup I actually have 1.5mm piston holes (2) at rear, I liked a lot last season on bumpy tracks. Otherwise this is pretty much what guys have been telling here and what Tebo used on his SP2. Havin two pairs of shocks should make it relatively easy to change the shock settings depending on the track conditions, don't have to play with the oils on the track.

[dgrobe2112]

Mika, what is your soft shock setup?? pistons, oils, springs?

[Mika]

What I used to race last season and consider on soft side is
front: 40wt asso oil, 2x1.4mm holes, sp2 blue springs
rear: 40wt (or 50wt) asso oil, 2x1.5mm holes, sp2 blue (or now green) springs
Many guys including me liked it. We also run B parts on "low" settings in front plus 20 caster blocks. Diffs were 5-7-1, this season I'm gonna go for softer diffs, like 3-5-1 or 5-5-1, and give a try. But it takes a while before the snow melts :( Most guys were used to the old 7.5 so this was quite close to that.

[Monsterbrad]

I may be on to something here
I noticed that my SP-1 has K-3 rear arms on it.
I think that this takes away some of the twitchy feeling that the SP-1 normally has from what I have been hearing.
My car drives awesome
I want an SP-2 also to see the difference

[dgrobe2112]

i think Tebo was using a full K3 rear end on his SP1, actually.. i think his dad may have done some work to get the longer chassis feel on the SP1, but then the SP2 came out.. and he ran it..

[Mika]

that's interesting!

[nigru]

Hi I have a v-spec. Can this engines be run with no restrictors?!!

[dgrobe2112]

yes, it can be, but the blue 8mm restrictor is reccommended for best fuel economy, and easier tuning.

[AreCee]

You should use either the red or blue one. Running without either will give you poor performance, a hard to tune engine and will suck fuel like no tomorrow. You need the venturi to increase the airflow inside the carb.

The blue one is 9mm (sorry DG) and is for max performance and power, the smaller (8mm) red one is to reduce power for better traction on loose or small tracks and increase fuel economy.

[dgrobe2112]

srry bout that..

[nigru]

Why will it give me more trouble in tuning and bad performance? If you revove the restrictor, I am only getting from 9mm to about 11mm. Thanks.

[nigru]

One more thing. Check this carburator, it is on a boat engine but the same engine is used, just modified. http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg1627.html
It has a 10mm intake...

[dgrobe2112]

Inside the neck of the carb, is a little shelf (if that what you want to call it), the restrictor, is a certain depth.. and sits on that little shelf, if you take the restrictor out, there is then this little shelf that is inside the carb, and supposedly it affects the way air flows into the motor, and the same with fuel. the carb on that boat engine does not use restrictors, and has an 10mm intake, but no shelf.. you know what im sayin..

top of carb opening
L
bottom of carb

that little shelf at the bottom of the L, is normally covered by the restrictor

[AreCee]

Technically it isn't a restrictor but a venturi. Ask any speed shop about carbs and you'll learn that it is the venturi effect that accelerates the air to mix with the fuel. Now I see where you're going in your logic but it is flawed. Without the restrictor/venturi there will not be a smooth rapid flow of air into the carb and what flow there will be is distrubed (turbulance) and uneven. The venturi acts like a wing and the air flows faster where the venturi narrows thereby atomizing the fuel better. Remember that the fuel can only burn if it is atomized and the higher velocity of air from the venturi effect does this atomization. Same thing about using a tuned exhaust, it helps the engine breath correctly.

I think that would be a good experiment for you to run, Nigru, and then report your findings about running without the insert to this board.

[Monsterbrad]

Got the new T21BF in the buggy tonight.
I tried to take the Kyosho shoes back off the Kyosho clutch bell and they broke.
Brand new shoes I was very pissed to say the least.
So I used my Hot bodies Fly wheel and some standard shoes.
The Hot bodies truggy fly wheel lines up nicely just to let you guys know.
Plus that lets us use regular clutch shoes instead of having to use there expensive shoes.
What shoes is everybody running on here.???????????????????
I am running composits on the new engine

[AreCee]

Mugen black for high grip and white for loose. Mugen shoes cost $10. Use the 1.0 spring.

[Tremelle]

Well after a 16 year absence from rc racing, I have gotten back in with a SP2. I have absolutely no experience with nitro engines or off-road buggies, but in TX. they are king. I got a helluva deal on a 5 month old SP2 loaded to the gills with King Headz parts and a Collari B7 w/handmade pipe (don't know the brand) with 1/2 gallon through it. It also came with a spare chassis, parts, King Headz parts, and 3 sets of tires.

Since I am new to nitro, Jeremy at Lightspeed Hobby convenced me to take the Collari out and put in a OS RB until I get the hang of tuning a nitro motor. I also replaced the JR servos with the Airtronics servos w/ 200 oz. of torque. I am going to run the Spektrum radio system in a M11. Now all that is left is to learn to drive the darn thing. :)

I started reading this thread on page 75 to present. I have learned alot already about the buggy. I will be posting in this thread for advice along the way. I have already printed out a couple of the setups a few of you are running to try out and get me in the ballpark.

I hope I did not ramble too much just to say hello and introduce myself.

[hourocket3]

I too am getting back into rc racing with a SP2, it was shipped. I am going with a T21BF engine. HiTec servos and M8 with spektrum. Just saying HI

[dgrobe2112]

tremelle, i was just up your way this past weekend, running at Speed Racers Hobbies in Richardson. I have run at Indy RC, and Johnny Cool Guy RC, and have setups for all 3 tracks if needed, for a starting setup. You will love the car, hope to see ya at the track sometime. We are racing in my home town this weekend, Waco, Saturday, RC Pro series this weekend.

Hourrocket3, welcome to the site.

Both of you feel free to ask any and all questions, someone here will be able to help out. You guys picked the right car to start with. Good luck with yall racing, and let us know how you guys do, and Tremelle, be sure to post where you will be racing and such, maybe we will run into each other.

Daniel Grobe

[Tremelle]

I have read the setups that have been posted here. How are you all verifying your settings for caster, camber, and toe? Are you doing it by sight, or by setup board system? I have looked at a couple of setup systems. I am debating if I need one or not.

[Mika]

by sight... with buggies I don't think you need a setup table.

[dgrobe2112]

i got a PMB setup station round 50 bux, i only use it for my toe settings, to adjust the front toe out. I dont have to use it too often.. I use a RPM camber guage for the camber 5 bux. I use that alot.. cuz when you get hit, or wreck hard, or something.. your camber settings do get messed up.. Your castor settings are set by your front castor blocks. So no need for castor settings.

[AreCee]

Set up tools are great to use since you'll have consistency. An RPM camber gauge can be very useful and with a ruler is a decent set up tool. Your rear toe is determined by which holder you install.

Eyeballing will get you within the ballpark, set up tools will get you on base. I have yet to see many people eyeball exactly -1degree of toe out or camber.

DG, I use a PMB also as you said. It's great for toe and steering throw but I use the RPM gauge more.

[dgrobe2112]

i rarely have to use the setup station.. after i get the toe set.. then i just measure the turnbuckles.. and replace them as needed..

[buggynic]

hi,

anybody know the factory default needle setting for Novarossi P5X ?

thanks in advance.

[Monsterbrad]

I am not sure about the low speed needle but I would say 2-1/2 turns out from closed on the top end and maybe 1-1/2 out from closed on the low speed needle.
these are just guesses.

[buggynic]

thanks for the info Monsterbrad

[Jato9]

I just upgraded from a mp 7.5 to a 777 sp1. I have yet to run it but I should get to run it saturday then race on sunday weather permiting. I hope I like it. It was a used one off of ebay with sp2 shocks and some other upgrades. anything I should look for in handling setups? I am sure that this hace been descused alot but I have not read though all these pages yet.

Jake

[dgrobe2112]

go with 5/7/3 in the diffs, that will help lock in the rear.. other than that.. 60/40 shock oils.. should be good to go.. oh.. and "0" toe out.. -3 camber in the rear.. for more rear traction in corners.. :) enjoy the car.. it will be night and day from your 7.5 in the steering department.. be prepared to hit some pipe.. @ turn in.. hahah

[dgrobe2112]

man.. :confused: i dont know for sure.. but none of my P5's were that closed.. those are pretty lean settings i think but i may be wrong.. never had the P5X, i have tuned them.. but never owned one.. still love the older P5.. try turning the high speed needle so it is flush with the housing. then back it out one turn.. always better to be safe.. If you want too.. i will go home tonight, and check the settings on one of my P5's.. and do it from fully closed..

on the low end.. i would at least go 3 turns out from fully closed.. which reminds me..

when turning the low end needle all the way in, be sure your carb is open to full throttle.. the needle will bottom out on the carb.. and possibly damage the end if you dont.. just dont get it too tight when tightening down..

[Jato9]

Thanks dgrobe2112. I think he said the shock oils were 50 in the front and 40 in the rear. The diffs are what you said so I will leave them if you say that should be good.

[dgrobe2112]

should be good to go.. like i said.. be ready.. cuz this car is gonna make your 7.5 feel like a slug.. hahah.. all this steering.. gotta learn to drive all over again.. hahah

[Monsterbrad]

You guys that have gone from the SP-1 to the 2??????
Is there really that much difference??????

[AreCee]

Yes, it becomes more stable in the rough stuff.

[dgrobe2112]

big difference.. car is more stable in the rough, able to get on the power harder.. the SP1 is a great car, and i think learning to drive that car.. then going to the SP2, was an easy change over.. cuz the SP2 is easier to drive.. tons of steering, but wont bite you like the SP1 did..

[Monsterbrad]

I am going all buggy
Going to give the truggies up for a while
probably going to get a new SP-2
Selling all my truggy stuff
anybody want anything let me know
I have a bunch of Hot Bodies LSP stuff
Brand new Pro -R with a bunch of Kingz headz stuff on it
I like the SP-1 for now
it seems to work well on the small indoor track I am at

[Mika]

Hi Monsterbrad,
I've been thinking about racing truggies too (the 777 ST-R when it comes available), but your comment makes me think.. What are the reasons why you say you are giving up truggies? Is buggy so much for fun or why ...... Thanks! Others?

[J_Bone]

I am going all buggy
Going to give the truggies up for a while
probably going to get a new SP-2
Selling all my truggy stuff
anybody want anything let me know
I have a bunch of Hot Bodies LSP stuff
Brand new Pro -R with a bunch of Kingz headz stuff on it
I like the SP-1 for now
it seems to work well on the small indoor track I am at
How much?? $200?? hehe

[Monsterbrad]

J_BONE
You are crazy try like $550.00
I am not giving up on truggy I just can't make up my mind on what I want to do. After driving the Kyosho buggy here and seeing how everybody like's the SP-2 better I kinda want the SP-2.
But I also like the new Truggy it looks awesome.
I am going to take a couple weeks finish up racing the Truggy and race the buggy at the same time and see how things end up.
For now the Buggy engine needs broken in

[Mika]

OK, I understand what you mean.. so many options, less time and money..

[J_Bone]

Ya, I want the new ST-R, but there is no money for another $1000 racer. I got my buggy and my gas truck for now and that's what I'll be racing. :p

[Monsterbrad]

Well as much as I do love the LSP I have to let them go.
I really love the way my SP-1 with the K-3 rear end handles.
From what I have been reading the truck will handle like the car which would be awesome and then I will be all kyosho which will be nice for parts.
Plus from what I have seen in the last few years Kyosho's fit and finish are awesome and the LSP's fit and finish is good but not in a Tool Makers eye's.
So the truggies are going to be sold and I will get the new 777 truggy when I get enough money.
After the sale of 2 trucks I probably will have enough to out fit the 777 Nicely.
Still have to get my T21BF engine broke in
weather sucks I am going to take it to the shop ware house I guess :confused:

[Tremelle]

Since I am putting a new motor in my buggy, I was thinking of using a different clutch. I was wondering what clutch are you running in your buggies? I have the factory clutch assembly now, but thought of changing to a Werks clutch with carbon pads. What do you think?

[StevePond]

The team guys all run the stock aluminum clutch shoes with the 1.0mm springs. Occasionally they throw in a single carbon shoe (IFW52) to soften the clutch slightly. The 1.1mm springs give you more punch but they should only be use if you have pretyt good traction; otherwise the .95mm springs are good for slippery conditions.

[Monsterbrad]

Pretty much all the guys that I race with use either .9 springs or 1.0 springs and some type of carbon shoes.
I recently discovered that the Hot Bodies LSP fly wheel fits the car perfectly so now you can use any shoes instead of the Kyosho ones that are one time deals. They work very well but I found that Mugen aluminum ones and Mugen Composits work very well also.
I have a set of standard composits on mine now and I hope they will work good. Mugen ones will be in next.
Remember with aluminum shoes they need to be trimmed now and then to remove the burr that strarts from wear.
I like a vented clutch bell with the aluminum shoes seems to hold up a little better.

[Mika]

Fironi turbo slide is also a good option; easy to install and maintain. Use all three springs and to adjust, shorten one or more springs with 1-2mm.

[StevePond]

Most clutch shoes are interchangeable regardless of flywheel. The pins are generally the same diameter and length, so maybe there's something that I'm not aware of that would prevent it, but as far as I know, the clutch shoes from most other cars fit on the Kyosho flywheel - as they should... they're mostly "designed after" the Kyosho clutch. ;) Kyosho clutch shoes are not "one time deals." The carbon shoes require a little more care in installation because they're made from a softer material, but they're no different than any other carbon clutch shoe. I've used the Kyosho carbon shoes for years and haven't broken any more of them than Mugen shoes - a grand total of about four shoes between my Mugen and Kyosho cars over the last ten years or so (they didn't use this style of clutch before then).

[Monsterbrad]

Mugen aluminum shoes will not fit on the Kyosho clutch bell.
I did not try any regular ones. The posts on the Kyosho clutch bell are .105 thousands of an inch. The posts on the Mugen clutch bell are .098 thousands of an inch.
So the Kyosho pins are a little bigger enough that the shoes made for Mugen will not fit.
Also the Ofna clutch bell with not fit on the Kyosho fly wheel cause it rubs the step has to be machined down or you have to run the once again Kyosho clutch bell.

[J_Bone]

I use Mugen carbon shoes with Mugen 1.0 springs. I like the Kyosho Aluminum shoes the best, but the maintenance on them was PITA. So I went with carbons which don't eat up the clutch bell like Aluminum ones.

All you have to do it drill out the holes to fit the Kyosho pins. I can buy 3 sets of Mugen shoes for the price of one set of Kyosho shoes. I also tried the Hot Bodies clutch bell and it was too long and rubbed the fly wheel when I tried to bolt it down.
Kyosho flywheel and clutch bell with Mugen shoes and springs works for me. :D


I ordered the new chassis braces for my SP-2. Now Steve won't yell at me for using solid Aluminum ones.

[Monsterbrad]

Whats wrong with solid aluminum ones????

[Monsterbrad]

Here's the SP-1 with the new engine in it

[Monsterbrad]

Chassis shot

[dgrobe2112]

as was stated before, mugen aluminum shoes will not fit on the kyosho flywheel. They used too.. but for some reason, they dont now..

Brad car looks good..

[AreCee]

Whats wrong with solid aluminum ones????
It tends to make the chassis too stiff/rigid and that can overwhelm the suspension on very rough track terrain. The stock ones allow some flex and helps tune the chassis. The new ones are heavier duty and should hold up better without bending.

[AreCee]

as was stated before, mugen aluminum shoes will not fit on the kyosho flywheel. They used too.. but for some reason, they dont now....
Nothing that a little drilling can't fix.

[Monsterbrad]

Remember one thing about drilling!
These little engine's spin about 25000 rpm's on the average
So if you have something out of balance up there in the clutch system you will have problems.
Like I stated before put the stock Hot Bodies LSP fly wheel on the buggy and it works awesome.
I am breaking in the new T21BF it's cooling from the 3rd heat cycle right now!
Novarossi engines are sweet and easy to start.
This thing has crazy pinch also! :)

[J_Bone]

http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_sad.gif Never mind...
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/Forums/images/smiles/bs.gif

[Monsterbrad]

Engine all done!
Runs awesome
I like Novarossi I remember how my p-5 ran in my Hyper 7 pro
Awesome
Anybody else running Novarossi in there buggies????
what glow plug do you run in it?????

[dgrobe2112]

I run a P5, Top, with a Racers Edge #4 plug, medium in it.. no probs at all.. others like MC59 plugs.. i just never ran them..

[Monsterbrad]

I mostly run the MC 59 plug in everything.
I cooked 2 of them today in the Mach 26 in my LST.
It seems like you get a bunch of good ones then a bunch of crap ones!
oh well
they seem to work well in most all engine's I have run
I'll have to see how the new T21BF likes them
Still running the stock plug!

[hourocket3]

Just got my SP2 kit in last night, very excited, but I have a few questions...remember I am new at this...I was looking over the manual and it says that you use rubber cement to glue part of the brake system, is that right? It seems logical but just seems weird. Also, I got a Ionic-D charger and a OFNA 1400 reciever pack and I am a little lost and how you connect the 2 to charge. The only way I have thought is to make up a new wiring harness for the charger so I can connect the battery to it, is that right? And what is the best way of doing that?
I am really ready to start putting this thing together...

[AreCee]

Yes, you do need to bond the brake pad liners onto the brake pads. Kyosho recommends rubber cement but any contact cement will work. Some people use CA but it can be brittle.

You are correct that you need to make a connector for the battery. An easy and inexpensive way is to buy a 3 or 6 inch aileron servo extension and remove the red and black pins from the plug opposite of where you can plug in the battery and use the chargers alligator clips to hook it up.

[Monsterbrad]

Post some pics when you get it done!
I ordered a new 777 ST truggy
I am going to just run the SP-1 for now
Maybe a conversion kit in the future to the SP-2.
Making a new harness for charging that reciever pack is a good idea.
Also remember charge the battery at 1 amp and 10Mv peak detection.
Also remember that it takes a few charges to get a new pack to hold a charge good.

[FranktheTank]

Were the shock tower mounting holes revised from SP1 to SP2? Would like to know before I pick up the RE towers.

[AreCee]

Yes the towers were changed.

[dgrobe2112]

the holes that mount the shocks to the upper tower has changed.. by the SP2 has more holes.. than the SP1.. the RE towers still line up with the holes on the SP2 towers, just the SP2 has an extra set of holes to the inside..

[FranktheTank]

Awesome...thanks guys :)

[Monsterbrad]

If any of you guys still running the SP-1
If you would please try this option
Try a set of K-3 arms on the rear of the buggy and let me know what you think.
I know i have mentioned this before but I want someone else to try it and see what they think.

[supralative]

My buddy's new buggy body.

http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Sang%20Buggy%20002.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Sang%20Buggy%20004.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Sang%20Buggy%20005.jpg

[supralative]

If any of you guys still running the SP-1
If you would please try this option
Try a set of K-3 arms on the rear of the buggy and let me know what you think.
I know i have mentioned this before but I want someone else to try it and see what they think.


do the K3 arms look any different than SP1 or SP2 arms
if so please post a pic, as my buggy might have them on it

[Mika]

Supralative, that's a nice one!!

[dgrobe2112]

your car has MP777 front upper arms on it..

[Mika]

My new stiffeners :) http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/right.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

heck yea.. those new kyosho chassis braces are sweet.. got me a set.. and they come on the new ST-R.. love em..

Got the rear clip of the truck done.. workin on the front clip.. going good.. if i could just get away from work long enough to get more done.. :)

[jmcn r]

your 777 looks well arranged Mika!




supra, the Repsol theme looks terrific for any RC car! nice and bright but simple!


you 777 guys always did have good taste :cool:

[jmcn r]

heck yea.. those new kyosho chassis braces are sweet.. got me a set.. and they come on the new ST-R.. love em..

Got the rear clip of the truck done.. workin on the front clip.. going good.. if i could just get away from work long enough to get more done.. :)

hey GD, keep up with the pics of your ST build along the way! yours seem to be among the first ones on the net. :)


im anxiously following the ST, can't wait to see it in the hands of the first gurus and expert racers to get them dialed in and set up.

awaiting all possible info on the ST-R like a kid in a candy store :p

[dgrobe2112]

mine wont be the first.. others have allready posted theirs on sgrid..

[Monsterbrad]

The rear arms have no kick up at the end.
The Sp-1 and 2 arms kick up at the end where the hub carrier rides.

[dgrobe2112]

correct.. however, the rear upper arm has a kickup.. also.. notice the steering links.. they are bent as well.. to help clear the wheels i guess.. pretty trick stuff.. i feel this may be a weak link.. not sure yet.. truck is slowly starting to take form.. got it all done except for the shocks, and the throttle linkage.. my painter wont have a body ready for me to mount.. so i may have to go get a scrub body to run.. and just paint a solid color..

[Mika]

I was offered this truck .. did not get it (yet), I thought I don't have enough time at the summer to drive both classes, buggy and truggy. Your are lucky to drive whole year thru but me.. Not :( It was close though...If I would I'd have it on my hands by now....

[dgrobe2112]

i run both classes at big races.. simply to pass the time.. cuz at big races.. you could have hours in between heats.. so.. with 2 classes.. you would cut that down.. only one class.. and you could ahve around 12 or more heats until you race again.. thats over an hour right there.. i dont normally race both on club racing.. cuz of time.. not enough time..

Also, running both classes.. especially with the 2 being so close in performance, and handling.. you get double the track time.. :)

[Mika]

Oh yeah.. that certainly makes sence :)

[Monsterbrad]

I have noticed that after running 2 classes your driving skills stay sharp also.
Some say that's crap but I notice the difference.
First race on the new T21BF tomorrow afternoon.
I am super excited

[J_Bone]

I race 2 classes all the time. But I only have my Sp-2 and a GT. I seem to do better when I'm only racing 1 class.

[J_Bone]

Engine all done!
Runs awesome
I like Novarossi I remember how my p-5 ran in my Hyper 7 pro
Awesome
Anybody else running Novarossi in there buggies????
what glow plug do you run in it?????
I run a NovaRossi RB mod P5X and use McCoy59's. I was using RB#6 plugs and I didn't like them.

[Monsterbrad]

The MC 59 plug seems to be the best all around plug.
i'll have to see how the new Novarossi engine likes them.

[Monsterbrad]

I ordered the novarossi 5 plug which is the one thats in it from the factory.
Also tonight's racing went well but I have a pretty bad push situation going on.
I am trying to work this out
anybody have any sugestions?????
I got one guys view lets here some more
push pretty much on and off power!
Starting off with new shock oil
40 rear
30 front

[dgrobe2112]

k.. hard to say.. but i would go with 20deg hubs in the front.. dial out some of the front brake so the fronts wont lock up.. and do as much of your braking before the turn.. then be off the brakes going through the turns..

May try 4k diff in the front as well

On power.. go with th 2.5 deg block in the rear.. and possibly go down to 1k oil in rear diff..

[supralative]

did good tonight at the local races
Annual Free For All Race

TQ'd in Sportsmans class
my pace would have put me about 5th in Expert class
Mother Nature stepped in though and we were not able to finish the last two mains.

I have a slight push issue...nothing crazy like it was before.
I went with 2 degree toe block in the back
20degree hubs up front
it was 3 degree toe block in the back
22 degree hubs up front

it turns alot better with the new set up
i run 5-7-2.5 for diff fluid
70 wt associated up front
and 40 wt associated in the rear
SP2 blues in the back
SP1 rear blues in the front

[Monsterbrad]

The track that I am on is a small indoor track.
I was told to leave the 22 degree hubs alone and mess with the rest of the suspension first cause the 20 degree hubs take some of the steering away.
This is all new to me can you tell :)

[J_Bone]

Good results Supralative!!


Monsterbrad,
the 20 degree hub will give you quicker turn in but can make the strait's witchy.

[dgrobe2112]

like Jb said.. will help with turn in.. but turn out will be hindered.. there are other things you can do.. go down in front diff.. to get more turn it.. i ran the 22's.. after running the 20's.. didnt like it at all..

[Monsterbrad]

I re arranged the rear shock set up and I am going to try some 40wt oil in the rear and 30 in the front see what happens.
The 20 degree cariers are on there way.

[J_Bone]

30wt in front? Wow, I run either 50wt. or 60wt.

[Mika]

I've used 20C's all along...By the way RB is releasing C6 buggy..if it's no joke .... http://www.buggy-sport.info/include.php?path=content/news.php

[FranktheTank]

I've never used a turbo motor in an offroad car before, but it seems like quite a few manufacturers (RB, Novarossi) prefer the standard-type plug for their offroad motors. My problem is I prefer O.S., since the only motor I have in my Kanai has been the V01B, which has been great.

Can anyone relate their experiences with the V-Spec? And is there a head insert available that will allow me to use a standard plug?

[dgrobe2112]

i dont think there is a head insert.. lot of people use the OS Vspec.. however, replace the bearings right off.. so your 300 dollar engine just turned into a 350. I would suggest getting a P5.. or something of that sort.. contrary to beleive, the P5, is easy to tune, and has great power, only problem is the OS makes great fuel mileage.. i got beat one time on a fuel mileage strategy.. thought i had him.. but one less stop for him.. and he won..

[FranktheTank]

Guess I'm leaning that way, Daniel. The Plus and P5X motors are looking like pretty good alternatives to the V-Spec. Thanks :)

[J_Bone]

Guess I'm leaning that way, Daniel. The Plus and P5X motors are looking like pretty good alternatives to the V-Spec. Thanks :)
The OS sponcered guys at my track had problems all weekend at the Silverstate. Not to mention a few others at my locakl track...P5 any day! I love mine!

[dgrobe2112]

and there ya go.. i had a vspec.. got rid of it.. too much hassle.. with air leaks.. and such..

[Monsterbrad]

Novarossi makes great engine's
There new 28 8 port runs a turbo plug but I think you can get a standard button head for it.
Not sure
I am running the T21BF and guys are saying they can't believe how fast it is.
We'll see when it comes to the bigger out door track in the summer.
It may not be enough.

[dgrobe2112]

it will be plenty.. i ran that engine for almost 6 gallons.. very fast.. and didnt get pulled until the absolute end of the straight.. broke a rod bearing in an indoor track.. i think i sucked dirt..

[Monsterbrad]

I ran a P-5 in the Hyper 7 Pro buggy that I had a while back.
It was awesome as well.
These Novarossi engine's have crazy compression.
It's no wonder they last so long.

[freddan]

The quality on novarossi engines very good. Best in business I think. Remember that RB are made of novarossi so there we go. RB and novarossi.

I preheat my engine to make it last longer with a heat gun on the first start. This makes the engine start already warm and means less stress on the conrod and piston/sleeve. I have 2 gallons of fuel gone through and engine is like new in compression. use preheating!

I just love novarossi. if you race novarossi is the choice. No matter if you are serious racer or want a reliable and powerful engine just for fun.

:rolleyes:

[Toiffel]

I'm running a SP2, and having a hard time lining it up with my Mugen box, what starter box is the best??? Easy to line up, and powerfull enough to turn over brand new 21's ???

[Mika]

I think RB is now made by Sirio, they changed to Sirio from Nova

[freddan]

Mika, this must mean that you actually can view/see a difference. I mean how the machinery is done. I know that the rubbergasket on the carburettor on the RB is marked Novarossi. Mika, thanks.

[Monsterbrad]

Well alot of guys say that cheap engine's are the way to go and the rest is the driver.
I can say this is very true but a sweet running engine makes all the difference in the performance area.
Novarossi is one of the best. thats for sure.
I use a Ofna Chrome top and so do many of the guys that I race with.
I like it and run it with a car battery cause gell cells are not for me.
I am looking for another one if anybody has any info.
This hobby is breaking my bank thats for sure! but's it a ton of fun :D

[jmcn r]

wow, RB motors produced by another company? you learn something new in this hobby everyday! lol, MB...thats why it breaks the bank! as soon as you learn something you try and improve on what you have!



i wonder to what extant RB is involved with those companies....if they just manufacture the extra pieces such as gaskets and inserts or everything from the ground up....hmmm

[adrianderekluna]

speaking of nova rossi, what do you guys think of the top .21 BF? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/3245

http://www.amainhobbies.com/images/large/fmst21bf.jpg

i've ran about 15 RB's in the past, but never NR. looking for a good toss away engine instead of rebuilding. at $170 the price is right if you ask me. my bud ordered it, only comment he's had so far is that the head was overly heavy, and it's a 3 needle carb, not 2 as described in the listing. a gold werks fioroni head might be a worth while upgrade.

on the nova rossi tip. get your hands on the B7 collari while they last at $240. nova rossi will start producing them as well, so the prices will soar to the $300 range later this year.

thanks!

[adrianderekluna]

personally for the SP2 i use the ofna silver top starter box and set the guide markers accordingly. hasn't skipped a beat. well, the switch died and the wires shorted a few times, but that's to be expected. it's also belt driven with 2 smaller motors instead of one larger low rpm motor. great torque for race engine break ins.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/5429

I'm running a SP2, and having a hard time lining it up with my Mugen box, what starter box is the best??? Easy to line up, and powerfull enough to turn over brand new 21's ???

[adrianderekluna]

i dig the notes on the push situation.

5-7-2.5, that a smooth track?

70 weight in the front. pretty thick. you could always try a smaller diameter pin hole on the pistons. 1 hole instead of 2 with a lower 40 weight oil up front. i did that and noticed an improvement in the front shock absorption without it being too slow to react and hoppy. just right. i love kyosho for offering tune variations like this.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/images/large/kyoifw18.jpg

it always will put less straight on the shock rebuild rings. i wonder if 70 weight might blow. please post your further findings, i'm curious.

[dgrobe2112]

I'm running a SP2, and having a hard time lining it up with my Mugen box, what starter box is the best??? Easy to line up, and powerfull enough to turn over brand new 21's ???

My mugen box works fine with my SP2, i did however, have to cut the black stops.. with a Xacto knife.. to have a flat spot. and it works great.. cranks any motor..

[Monsterbrad]

That T21BF engine is a great engine!
I have one and so far other then it likes novarossi plugs it runs great.
I think the plug they reccomend is the Novarossi #5.
But for the money this motor is sweet!

[adrianderekluna]

great to hear. think i'll order one today.

does it like hot plugs/30%? of course, NR plugs are the best on the market... i agree.

[dgrobe2112]

I run 30% in my BF, iwth a medium plug.

[Monsterbrad]

I do believe that is there medium hot plug.
All I know is I tried a MC 59 in the T21BF and it does not like it.
It runs but not as well as it does with there plug in it.

[dgrobe2112]

Novarossi #6 is a medium plug.. i beleive the stock plug in the motor is a #5, but its a different #5..

I run Racers Edge #4 plug.. which is similar to an MC8.. or a Nova/RB 6

[J_Bone]

Ya, stock .21's like medium plugs until you get them modded. Then they like Hot ones.. :D

[dgrobe2112]

one thing i do know.. is the 21BF is sensitive to low end settings.. once i got it set.. it was good.. but it took me a couple tries to get the low end set.. after that.. motor is dialed..

[Monsterbrad]

I have not realy messed with the low end at all.
Just the high end to keep the temps safe.
Where are you guys running them for temp on average?

[adrianderekluna]

i just ordered a fresh top version from a buddy of mine. it's a 3 needle rossi carb, not 2. i prefer 2 for simplicity, but i guess 3 will do. i'm gonna flow a hot NR plug setup to boot with some 30% OD.

usually tune by sound, don't ever check temps really.

[Monsterbrad]

Smoke is where tuning is at man
If you have smoke you have cooling
none then you are running to hot.
Plus when this engine run's too hot it barks like a dog!
You will see what I mean

[dgrobe2112]

smoke = lubrication.. spit on the head.. if it dont sizzle like a egg.. your good.. if the motor has a really high pitch too it.. and stupid fast.. too lean.. dont clear out too fat..

My 21BF ran round 240 all the time..

[Monsterbrad]

I am running mine around 220 and it seems pretty good.
Course the track that I race on is small at the moment
Did anyone ever try a bigger clutch bell 14th with this engine?

[adrianderekluna]

i'm going to try a 14toth on it tuesday, rain permitting. think the weather might get in the way though.

[Tremelle]

Have you ever wanted to see what it would be like to be behind the wheel of a r/c car? Checkout this video from a local on road carpet racer. I know it is not 777 related, but it is cool. Here is the link, Behind the Wheel Video (http://www.glasselevator.net/bob/files/CarsPerspectiveTrimmed.wmv) . I hope you enjoy it like I did.

[Monsterbrad]

Thats cool
I can only imagine how crazy off road would be.
Well guys I am letting the buggy go!
Anybody wants it take a look back a few pages there are some pics
$650.00 asking price
Racers edge shock towers and chassis supports
New T21BF Engine
Hitec Digital servo's
Only thing it will need to run is a starter box and pipe.
Comes with extra's and new un painted Crowd Pleazer

[Mika]

Hi, got tired with Buggies?

[adrianderekluna]

can you repost some pics monster? i might be interested in taking it off of your hands. i'm paypal confirmed as well. what's the condition of the plastics, diffs, hinge pins? pm me if you wanna talk.

[Monsterbrad]

The pics are 2 pages back I do believe.
I also am only selling this thing if I get a good buck for it.
I am no longer giving away anything RC.
600 is the least I will take for it.
These buggies are just to expensive
Kyosho does make the best stuff out there though and I have had almost every other brand.
They make awesome 1/8 scale stuff

[isseym88]

I been reading some post on the settings for bumpy tracks.My local track seem to be quite bumpy at some part. When I drove past those bumps, and holes, my car seem to be bouncing all over the place.

Can someone suggest a well try out setting for me as a reference or a possible solution. I had forgotten my shock oil weight.

I think I need to do something with the shock. Does changing the preload helps?

It is an mp777 sp1 with sp2 upgrade.

[J_Bone]

Here's my track. Is yours as bumpy as mine???
http://extremehobbiesproductions.com/pics/TillmanMt3.jpg

I actually ran 50wt in the front and either 32.5wt or 35wt in the rear. Yes add more spring spacers to give more ride height and stand the shocks up more by moving the shock tower to the next hole over. Also let it have full droop! It will need it to soak up the bumps.

[dgrobe2112]

blue springs up front.. green in the rear as well..

[J_Bone]

blue springs up front.. green in the rear as well..
Yup, I forgot about that. I have also ran the SP-1 springs and like them for the rear as well.

[dgrobe2112]

alot of people like the SP1 blues.. i like the SP2 springs, the blues start off a little stiff.. however, after a few races.. they seem to break in.. and get softer..

I use whites in front, and blue in rear for my stock setup.. and when it goes rough, i go blue in front, green in rear..

[adrianderekluna]

for the shock oil, you might want to check your shock shafts to be sure they are not bent or notchy. if straight rebuild them with the $9 rebuild kit. personally i use 40 weight front, 35 weight rear with 2 hole pistons. 1 hole pistons you'll most likely just blow the shock rebuild o-rings.

i suggest limiting the droop. i've noticed that if i have too much sag in the rear the shocks just bounce all over the place thanks to too much live action. i adjust the set screws in the lower rear arms to limit the droop by about 1/4 inch.

also, how are the foams in your tires? i've noticed that after about 2 weeks of running the foams on my tires just feel plane flat, which will affect your handling in the bumpy areas. i suggest the treadz or panther premolded inners.

otherwise, kyosho's have always been loose in the tail. some guys tend to strap a 1 ounce weight in the back to add some weight.

[isseym88]

Yes J bone parts of the track is just like your tracks may be due to lack of maintenance. I will try out the suggestion above. thanks

[Monsterbrad]

Most of the time shocks are over looked on these things.
They are not as sensitive as 1/10 scale racing but they still need to be gone over here and there.

[Mika]

Anyone has experiences over the ST-R yet? DG? I'm still planning to get one...

[Monsterbrad]

I am still thinking about one
I saw one last weekend at the track and I like it
Looks typical Kyosho
But it was not set up that good and the guy who was driving it has been away for a while so he and the truck were a little rusty.
My LSP is still storming though :D

[dgrobe2112]

Mika, yes i have an ST-R, the truck is very durable, very stable, you will love it.. shares alot of parts with the SP2, everything on the chassis, like diff cases, diff housing, radio box.. etc. etc.. diffs are done different, with the spiral cut gears, but the internals are the same.. Little mods to the truck allready, to the rims to get full steering lock to lock.. but other than that.. its great..

[adrianderekluna]

:) i wanna str.

[FranktheTank]

Anyone wanna buy a new set of yellow wheels and wing? Just pulled them out of my SP1 kit.

[J_Bone]

Anyone wanna buy a new set of yellow wheels and wing? Just pulled them out of my SP1 kit.
$$ ???

[FranktheTank]

Looking to get $13 for the wheels and $16 for the wing, shipped.

Or best offer... ;)

[Monsterbrad]

ran the buggy tonight
It was great
I took a bunch of pre load out of the shocks and it turns and handles way better.
Getting better as the weeks go on
Just in time to get ready for the out door season.
Still loving the T21BF

[J_Bone]

Looking to get $13 for the wheels and $16 for the wing, shipped.

Or best offer... ;)
I really wanted the wing, but that's a bit much.

thanks

[FranktheTank]

I really wanted the wing, but that's a bit much.

thanks

No problem....like I said, I'm taking offers. Actually, if anyone has a brand new green wing and 7.5 green spoked wheels, I'd be more than happy to trade (want my SP1 to match my K2).

[adrianderekluna]

i agree on the top 21 bf. great motor huh? runs like a clock, does'nt flame out, great top end, smoooooooth powerband.

one of my favorite engines thus far.

[Toiffel]

P5 best bang for the buck, my old one has 4 gallons and still runs like a champ, got a brand new P5X for the Pro Series...... can't go wrong

[Toiffel]

Found this very helpfull for bumpy tracks, the only change I did and worked perfect for me, was the rear shocks, instead of the blue sp2 rear I used the lighter blue sp1, and wow......
Kyosho MP777 Setup

Mark Pravidis Setup

Front

60w oil (70w if hot out)
1.4 piston
blue spring
inside hole in front tower
inside hole for shock on arm
22 caster block
Low A block
std sway bar
ride height front bones just above level
5000 diff oil
steering in middle hole in rack
droop depends on track slightly limited

Center

48 tooth spur
13 clutch bell
3 shoe clutch 1.0 springs
7000

Rear

35 w oil
std rear sway bar
2 deg anti squat
3 deg toe
hubs back
camber link long and in lower hole in tower
2nd to inside hole in tower
inside hole in arm for the shock
blue springs
bones level if bumpy just above level
1000


Greg Degani setup with report

Got Back from Hemet car worked really well on Saterday, did lots of
testing with different set-ups. Finished third and almost won it but
crashed at the end..I had gotted lapped 7 minutes into the 15 minute
main by chad but i managed to put in fast laps in the last 7 minutes
and un-lapped myself and almost one but i blew it with 45 seconds
left..anyway Found a decent set-up for bumpy tracks. Diff
5000,7000,1000 Front oil 60wt 1.4 rear oil 35 wt 1.4 Front upper link
long, "High block""A" Middle steering hole on steering link. Shocks
inside on arm,inside on tower 14 mm ride hight clips front.
Rear end.. Shocks inside hole arm Second hole from inside on tower, Use
the upper shock holes on the tower. 3 degree toe in,2 degree antisquat.
Rear hubs back, use bottom hole hinge pin on hubs. 17 mm ride-hight
clips. Full travel front and rear(in the front yur travel is limited by
the arms hitting the chassie...and in the rear your travel is limited
by the shocks in the top holes in the tower) So no need to mess with
your droop screws..Hope that covers it..

[Monsterbrad]

That set up looks like it may work for my summer track.
I am going to try it!
Love the set up tips I am getting on here
Thanks Guys :)

[J_Bone]

Ya, that's a good starting setup. I got those last year on my SP-1 and they worked good. With the SP-2 I had to do some minor adjustments.

[supralative]

whats up guys
been awhile
how is everyone doing here
still loving my SP1
just got a new RB S5...need to break it in though
gonna run the OS RG until it craps out hahaha then drop the new mill in
got a new body for first part of the season
good buddy Jeff at www.jabodies.com painted it up for me
told the wife i would do something along the lines for her hehehehe
wheels and wings are more of a hot pink than the standard pink on the body

http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Pink%20Assassin%20009.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Pink%20Assassin%20011.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Pink%20Assassin%20010.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Pink%20Assassin%20012.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Pink%20Assassin%20001.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Pink%20Assassin%20002.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Pink%20Assassin%20003.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Pink%20Assassin%20004.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Pink%20Assassin%20005.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Pink%20Assassin%20008.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

looks good man, you going to the money race @ SRH??

[supralative]

what up mang
you know i want to but i think i better go to my own wedding...LOL

good luck down there
i wonder if Phil and some of the Action guys will be going
you liking that truggy huh...the guys are killing it up here with it

[dgrobe2112]

Truggy is good, it will be real test this weekend to see how i does.

Congrats on the wedding!!!

[Toiffel]

Hey guys, can someone post some pics on how to install a throttle return spring??? i'm planning to run the Pro Series and it's mandatory to have one installed "preferred on the carb" , but I can't figure it out, any help much appreciated.......

[AreCee]

It's not very hard to do. Attach one end to the motor mount screw facing the exhaust and the other end of the spring on the throttle slide ball under the ball cup.

[dgrobe2112]

Actually.. what i did, was go get the Losi throttle return spring kit, comes with 2 springs, take one end, and put it on the carb nipple where the fuel line goes to the carb, then the other, just hang it around the ball link on the carb slider.. i dont have pics.. but i will look..

[dgrobe2112]

the way my carb nipple faces, is down, toward the tank.. and my carb ball link is facing the front of the car.. so, the spring will run under neath the air filter..

[AreCee]

I attached the Losi spring to a screw that replaces the set screw on the ball link collar. That way the spring rides in between the cylinder case and the carb, doesn't rub on the slide boot and pulls the throttle closed without overpowering the servo. Also there are a couple eyelets included with the Losi springs that I use to secure the spring on the motor mount screw.

[isseym88]

There is quite a strange thing that is happening to my buggy,
When I flip my mp777 buggy on the back when driving it on the track, the engine would rev up really high like it running very lean as times goes even the throttle on my transmitter has been let go. I also has a throttle return spring that function all righ, so it was not that the throttle is opened wide.

When I turn the car back with all wheels on the ground, it would rev normal again and idle fine

I was wonder about what was that all about? Have anyone of you have this type of experience?


Anyone using a TKO dual stage pistons?


Or RMV progressive spring? How is it?

[dgrobe2112]

you may want to check the length of your pressure line.. also.. from the sounds of it.. might be just a tad lean on the bottom. or the idle may be set too high. basically whats happening, there is not enough pressure in the tank to push the fuel to the carb. so thats why its leaning out. Also, consider running longer fuel line. make sure you tank is fully closed.

[Monsterbrad]

One thing that I have noticed alot of people doing is tuning the low end to get idle quality.
This is not the way to do it.
You want the idle as low as it will go with out stalling it then tune for power.
That will keep from having 4 strokin and leaning out probelms.

[nigru]

Hi, i am having problems with my 777. The e-clips seems to be popping out from the rear arms, front arm, knuckle etc.... WHAT CAN I DO???

[AreCee]

Hi, i am having problems with my 777. The e-clips seems to be popping out from the rear arms, front arm, knuckle etc.... WHAT CAN I DO???
A tiny dab of Shoe-Goo keeps them in place and is easy to remove them. Also never reuse the clips always use new ones because they loosen after one use, hence they fall off.

[Monsterbrad]

You can also get some after market retainers that have set screws in them to keep the pins in place.
My SP-1 has Kingz heads stuff in the rear
they work very well

[AreCee]

I just have a very hard time justifying spending nearly $50 for aftermarket hingepins or "retainers" when I have rarely lost an e-clip in several years of racing. (Only once that I can remember due to a severe collision.) A tube of Shoe-Goo is $3.00 and a box of 3mm e-clips is $2.00.

Also the new SP2 hingepins are really good quality, finished well and very strong.

[hourocket3]

OK guys, this starter box OFNA chrome top for my SP2 is kicking my butt, I cannot get it lined up. Any hints or pics of your starter box so I can see where the posts should go would be helpful.

[AreCee]

The peg over the starter motor may be your problem. It will prevent the top to move down and contact the starter wheel. Move that peg to the second slot from the starter wheel and all the way to the outside to clear the starter motor, then it should work fine. I know because that's the starter box I use with my 777 SP2.

[Monsterbrad]

the best way to line that up is take the engine out of the car and line the opening up that way.
Getting the engine out of these cars is no biggy any ways.
saves you the starter box frustration!
Good Luck
Oh yeah put the SP-1 arms on the rear of the buggy for this week.
It was much better steering and over all handleing
Straight line power was awesome!
Much better

[nigru]

One question, if an engine overheats, what are the damages? bearings? only?

[Monsterbrad]

For the most part the engine's will take a few times of over heating as long as you catch it before you run like 2 tanks through it.
I am running my T21BF at 240 or so and I still have a good amount of smoke and oil,on the body.
I know that for some of these engine's they actually run cooler on 30%fuel which I am going to be switching to for the summer.

[Toiffel]

I going to try the lighter blue springs (SP1) in the rear this weekend at the Pro Series :)

[dgrobe2112]

here is the new lid for the rest of this season.. thank you tommy rushton..

http://www.rcfiles.com/gallery/data/500/1410grobe-buggy1.JPG

http://www.rcfiles.com/gallery/data/500/1410grobe-buggy3.JPG

[Monsterbrad]

that body is SWEET :D

[adrianderekluna]

you guys heard any rumors about the new kyosho 777 SP coming out?

[Mika]

Awesome! Is this the new Proline SP2 body?

[dgrobe2112]

no.. its still the SP1 body.. i have seen the SP2 body.. and its alot better..

[Mika]

Ok, I ordered one from Tower...A main hobbies seem also have it.

[dgrobe2112]

the SP2 body, is similar, but has its differences.. which i think are for the better.. like the bubble at the rear for the pipe.. bigger.. the body top like, roof and stuff.. wider.. which may help with the air filter issue.. but i know the guy who paints my bodies.. said it will be easier to paint..

[Monsterbrad]

Will the Crowd pleaser 2.0 fit on the SP-1 buggy?
I was kinda thinking it would not
but they are very close in length

[dgrobe2112]

yes, the CP 2.0 works on both, SP1 and SP2, there is a new CP 2.0 SP2 body by proline, that also works on both.

[Monsterbrad]

well I got the one that was for the 777
looks cool to me
have to get some paint then it will be rady with the new STR body

[dgrobe2112]

bot bodies look almost exactly alike.. just some minor changes is all..

[Monsterbrad]

thats cool
I am looking forward to getting all my stuff ready in the next month for summer.
Much needed break before the summer season.
Then again in saying that I need to stay practiced up.
:)

[J_Bone]

Nice lid DG!!! I'm waiting for mine from Mike Czech....damn he's been booked up. :(

[Mika]

6 months waiting finally over! Was able to take the SP2 on track three times past week.. damn it's fun again. Really liked the way my Sirio evo pulled the car..diff setup rather radical 3-5-1 but going next for 5-5-1. Otherwise as usual. Kyosho testing camp next weekend, guys with new RB C6's and all.

[dgrobe2112]

czech graphics is awesome.. me personally.. i like my painter more than anyone.. he rocks.. but mike is awesome too.. czech graphics is good.. you will love your lid from him.. cant wait to see it..

[Monsterbrad]

post pics
I was thinking about getting into a fancy paint job
but I am not going to use a gun just the can
we'll see how it goes
my buggy did well
love the way it handled for the few weeks I raced it
summer racing starts in 3 weeks for me
:D

[J_Bone]

6 months waiting finally over! Was able to take the SP2 on track three times past week.. damn it's fun again. Really liked the way my Sirio evo pulled the car..diff setup rather radical 3-5-1 but going next for 5-5-1. Otherwise as usual. Kyosho testing camp next weekend, guys with new RB C6's and all.

I've seen a lot of guys running the 5-5-1 setup. It helps keep the wheels planted.

[J_Bone]

czech graphics is awesome.. me personally.. i like my painter more than anyone.. he rocks.. but mike is awesome too.. czech graphics is good.. you will love your lid from him.. cant wait to see it..
For the price, I had to go with him... :D :D Mike's supper cool kid and I've seen his work in person, after talking ot him for a while he's hooking me up.

[Monsterbrad]

I was thinking about having a body painted
this sounds cool
make sure you post pics of the one you are getting

[flode]

This is my Mp777 sp2 painted by Bodz custom R-C Bodies (http://members.fullnet.net/dsum/)

[flode]

one more :)

[dgrobe2112]

very nice..

[buggynic]

Hi all,

Just want to share my experience last week. After waiting for quite some times finally I got a chance to try kyosho new blue rear chassis stiffener. I noticed improvement. rear end of the car is more planted. Other than that i also put 1 mm spacer on shock mounting position on front shock tower so that my front shock is not laying backward too much.
right now I am thinking of getting the aluminium front susp holder ( those A/B and L/H part) because I notice that sometimes the plastic bushing (those mark with L/H etc) move out from its position during some crashes.

[buggynic]

Great body paint Flode !

[buggynic]

any body have tried CVD instead of universal on SP2 ? especially for rear end.
I wonder how it affect the handling.

[dgrobe2112]

i have never tried a CVD instead of the universal, dont know what the advantage or disadvantage would be.

www.racers-edge.com has the upper blocks on sale i think..