Inferno MP777

[Monsterbrad]

Sweet looking paint
The buggies are nice cause the bodies don't get that torn up
trucks are the worst on bodies
looks great though

[nigru]

Hi, I did a small home modification to my SP-1. On a rough track, my e-clips had the tendency to slip off. So instead, I bought some 3inch steanless steel screw and cut them the size of the rods.. At the end of the screw, lock nuts are placed.....They work beautiful and no more e-clip problems...They look cool too.
Now one question. I have the v-spec and a p-3 glow plug in it. OS only suggests to use the p-3. Have anyone used a p-6 glow plug or an even colder one? Anly loss in performance or something??

[dgrobe2112]

nigru.. did you do that for every hinge pin?? or just certain ones?

[nigru]

No not all the hinge. The 4 big hinge pins which are are located on the arm, I didn't change them because those never pop out... I only changed 6, the short ones and those found on the front shock towers. The others can also be changed, in fact I also bought 3mm screw for those but did have time to change them.... for only $2. No need to buy expensive ones like the k factory hinge pins which cost more than $40!! They both do same job....

[nigru]

Oh also a little modification was made on my v-spec engine... On the top on the engine, in the holes of the cylinder head (where the screws are found not the glow plug), instead of putting zip-ties to elliminate scraches on the head, I bended a stainless steel rod of 6mm thickness, in the form of U-shape and inserted in those holes(2 of them). 6mm are perfect fit, difficult to get out..... Also it acts as a small cylinder head....

[dgrobe2112]

No not all the hinge. The 4 big hinge pins which are are located on the arm, I didn't change them because those never pop out... I only changed 6, the short ones and those found on the front shock towers. The others can also be changed, in fact I also bought 3mm screw for those but did have time to change them.... for only $2. No need to buy expensive ones like the k factory hinge pins which cost more than $40!! They both do same job....

So, not the upper arm pins on the inside?? you didnt replace those?

[Monsterbrad]

The only problem with threaded rod is the threads dig into the a-arms after a while.
The after market ones with the loc nuts on them work very good.

[AreCee]

Shoe-goo does the job. No lose e-clips.

[nigru]

No the those found in the front lower inner arm and rear lower inner arm.... I've been using them for a month and the threads didnt do any damage yet. Yesterday I installed alluminium arm and they work more freely....

[Monsterbrad]

You will see wear after a while.
But if it works out well for you then cool

[Tonks]

:eek: :)

[Monsterbrad]

I ordered new tires for the summer
changing to 14t clutch bell too
and a new body

[nigru]

Hi guys, what is needed most in a buggy engine, BHP or Torque?

[Ball Racing]

What size track?

And most all the major brands have both, that is to say, a legal .21's ( except for RB's C5 big bottom) that has alot of torque will suffer at the top,

But when you look at the dyno reports if you have a RB or a Collari or a Nova or Rex or Top or V-spec It don't matter. They are as good as you will need.

If you are running a lesser brand engine you will have less hp, and less torque.


Torque on a dry track is a burden
Lack of torque on a hooking track might get passed coming off a corner or getting good run at the triple.

[dgrobe2112]

Hi guys, what is needed most in a buggy engine, BHP or Torque?

P5 done.. :)

[Monsterbrad]

I have the T21BF
and for the money and a JP-1 or 2 pipe it rips
the P-5 is my next choice

[Monsterbrad]

I knoe I asked this before but has anybody run a 14th on the T21BF engine????????

[dgrobe2112]

i have only on a track with long straight.. but normally.. just the 13t..

[dgrobe2112]

If their white one isnt good enough, which it is.. here is a new T-shirt from Kyosho..

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/pics/tshirt_ss_500.jpg

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/pics/tshirt_ls_500.jpg


Kyosho race shirts originally produced for the team drivers are now available to all Kyosho fans for a limited time. These premium-quality shirts feature unique, modern graphics and are available in long and short-sleeve versions.

Available sizes:
M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL

Item no. KA10000SM - Medium Short Sleeve Team Kyosho Shirt $18.99
Item no. KA10000SL - Large Short Sleeve Team Kyosho Shirt $18.99
Item no. KA10000SX - X-Large Short Sleeve Team Kyosho Shirt $18.99
Item no. KA10000S2X - 2X-Large Short Sleeve Team Kyosho Shirt $18.99
Item no. KA10000S3X - 3X-Large Short Sleeve Team Kyosho Shirt $18.99

Item no. KA10000LM - Medium Long Sleeve Team Kyosho Shirt $24.99
Item no. KA10000LL - Large Long Sleeve Team Kyosho Shirt $24.99
Item no. KA10000LX - X-Large Long Sleeve Team Kyosho Shirt $24.99
Item no. KA10000L2X - 2X-Large Long Sleeve Team Kyosho Shirt $24.99
Item no. KA10000L3X - 3X-Large Long Sleeve Team Kyosho Shirt $24.99

Mine are allready on order.. :)

[Mika]

Wow, good looking, especially the long sleeve!

[Monsterbrad]

post a link to where they can be purchased
I know i'm lazy :)
she looks good :D

[dgrobe2112]

contact melissa from kyosho america.. www.kyoshoamerica.com

her email address is melissa@kyoshoamerica.com

[Monsterbrad]

Well changed the buggy around for summer.
Ran it yesterday on 30% for the first time.
The Novarossi T21BF seems to like that better then the 20%.
Guess I was wrong about the 20% fuel being the only way to go.
I have been a basher for too long I guess :D

[J_Bone]

Your not the only one to think that.

[Monsterbrad]

I have to say after running the Novarossi engines here for a few weeks they seem really awesome.
I'll see how it goes at the race track later today :)

[Mika]

Been able to do more running and racing lately; K-factory bells seem to be pretty good, no signs of wear. K-Factory hinge pins seems also strong - crashed into mud after landing on the left side, broken A-arm and shock body (right under the cap), but the hinge pin seemed unintacted. But I can see wear in suspension blocks, so placing some shims is a good idea to limit the wear on them, especially on the alum parts. Seems also the locknuts gets loose so I've been using loctite along to secure them tightly. Working on the car may get a bit trickier that with e-clips but I still like them a lot.

[Monsterbrad]

anyone running the new STR in here?
Having any issues with the front drive shafts

[dgrobe2112]

i run the STR.. and do not have an issue with the front drive shafts.. check your diff shimming.. and i have driven the truck pretty hard..

[Monsterbrad]

My STR is for sale
Roller for 500 bucks
only one race a break in of the new engine it had in it.
Comes with Losi Zombies mounted and ready
body is still new
$500.00 roller

[EZM]

are st-r wing mounts the same as those on the sp2?what about the chassi is it the same one the sp2 uses? also what about the center universals same as sp2?

[Mika]

STR-R arms and chassis are longer so I guess the answer must be "no".

[dgrobe2112]

the wing and such is the same.. wing mounts, and diff cases, and such as that.. but the chassis is longer.. arms are longer.. center unis are longer, so are the other unis.. all longer.. but the wing mount and stuff is the same.. diff cases, and center diff mount.. stuff like that..

[Monsterbrad]

Mine is FOR SALE
Come on guys someone has to want it
STR brand new roller
1 race on it
500 bucks

[dgrobe2112]

might try the for sale section.. may get a little more interest in there..

[Monsterbrad]

I wish I could sell the truck and get a brand new SP-2 buggy
that would be sweet :)

[badboy2]

is the regular kyosho mp777 any good or youd rather buy the sp1 or sp2?can u use parts of sp2 on mp777?

[Mika]

SP2 is clearly the best option - or SP1 plus the SP2 conversion kit
many (most) of the parts are the same between models

[Monsterbrad]

I may just get a conversion kit
then again I am used to the way the car drives and I hate to change that.
Just went through all that with my STR the I am selling
Back to the LSP
my Sp-1 is pretty good so far

[EZM]

Can anyone give me the exact length in inches of the sp1 and sp2 mud guards?

[badboy2]

$600+ is too much for me for a kit..but since i saw the mp777 for like less than $400 i think i can afford that..but if the sp2 parts wont fit on the regular777 then ill just stay away from it heheh

[Mika]

Can anyone give me the exact length in inches of the sp1 and sp2 mud guards?

Cannot give you length but for your information they are equal (the same part) even though the SP2 chassis is longer

[EZM]

how could it be the same if the chassi is longer so the guards have to cover more lentght wise doesnt it?

[J_Bone]

LOL... The holes are the same so they fit. They made it longer on the rear of the chassis and moved other things around by moving holes on the chassis. So where the side guards attach was untouched!

I had the SP-1 and upgraded to a SP-2 with no issues! Even the chassis baces fit even though it got longer. :rolleyes:

[AreCee]

$600+ is too much for me for a kit..but since i saw the mp777 for like less than $400 i think i can afford that..but if the sp2 parts wont fit on the regular777 then ill just stay away from it heheh
You should do a little research before making blanket statements.

All the parts are interchangable except the chassis and one center universal (SP2 uses two 91mm Unis). The SP2 parts are upgraded 777 items like shocks, shock towers, etc. In fact the SP2 uses the same diffs in front, center and rear as the 777 does.

[Monsterbrad]

I read somewhere that the 777 has the limited slip diffs in it somewhere.
May have been Xrc or car action the first and only review that I could find of the SP-1 cause it was out such a short time before the SP-2 came out.
After the experience with my STR and now selling it I am wondering what other buggies are like that have cheaper parts.
Kyosho is a sweet buggy don't get me wrong but there parts are expensive.

[AreCee]

The SP1 came with a TCD Diff (limited slip) for the front. The standard 777 and SP2 have regular diffs all the way around.

[EZM]

how long is the sp2's center universal and chassis in inches exactly?

[J_Bone]

I read somewhere that the 777 has the limited slip diffs in it somewhere.
May have been Xrc or car action the first and only review that I could find of the SP-1 cause it was out such a short time before the SP-2 came out.
After the experience with my STR and now selling it I am wondering what other buggies are like that have cheaper parts.
Kyosho is a sweet buggy don't get me wrong but there parts are expensive.Like AreCee said...the SP-1 had a LSD diff. But you can buy the parts for less than $16 to make it a normal diff. That's what I did!




how long is the sp2's center universal and chassis in inches exactly?
WEll, the chassis is 4mm longer and the Center uni is 2mm I think. Now it's the same front and rear. The SP-1 was shorter on the rear.

[Mika]

I read somewhere that the 777 has the limited slip diffs in it somewhere.
May have been Xrc or car action the first and only review that I could find of the SP-1 cause it was out such a short time before the SP-2 came out.
After the experience with my STR and now selling it I am wondering what other buggies are like that have cheaper parts.
Kyosho is a sweet buggy don't get me wrong but there parts are expensive.

The reason why LSD (TCD) was dropped ooff from the SP2 and ST-R is not because they wanted to put "cheaper" parts but because the public wanted them so. People, especially in US where the big market is, did not like LSD in front. Like everywhere tracks are gettin bigger jumps and standard diff fits better to that. That's my understanding.

[EZM]

Can somebody please let me know what the lentgth of the sp2 chassis and center universal is in a complete measurement, It doesnt help me to know its 4mm longer than the sp1's because i dont know that either, thanks tho

[J_Bone]

SP-2 chassis is 500mm TOTAL! I just looked it up online as you can convert it to Inch as you seem fit. AS far as both Unis' I don't know.

[AreCee]

Unis are 91mm.

[Rchabits]

thanks

[EZM]

can anyone here who has an sp2 please give me the exact masurement of the chassis only not the complete length of the car!

[AreCee]

The chassis runs the complete length of the car.

[EZM]

I just want to know the lenght of the chassi alone not including the tires and bumber, just the length of the tip of the chassi plate to the rear tip of the chassi plate. isnt that how the chassi plate is measured?

[AreCee]

39cm

[EZM]

thanks alot man

[Monsterbrad]

I know this question has been asked in the past
But what are the main differences in the SP-2 and the SP-1
other then chassis length and rear shocks
driving characteristics stuff like that????????????

[AreCee]

Longer wheelbase = more stability over bumps and less sensitive steering.

[EZM]

Besides the length is there any other way i can the sp1 chassis plate from the sp2 chassis plate? like cutout or edges? Also how long is the sp2 chassis plate and how long is the sp1 chassis plate in cm? also when i do conversions on the ruler converter what does something like 2.44 inches mean? does it mean like 2 inches and 44mm or what? also which center universal is the one thats longer on the sp2, the front or back one? and is the back one on the sp1 the same length as the back of the sp2?

[AreCee]

EZM - Ich verstehe nicht Ihre Frage.

You can try stretching the SP1 chassis by 4mm because it's that much shorter than the SP2.

Both center drives on the SP2 are EQUAL (91mm). On the SP1 the front is 83mm and the rear is 93mm.

2.44" MEANS TWO INCHES AND 44/100ths INCHES!!!!! There are 25.4mm per inch.

Why don't you try to explain what it is that you wish to accomplish and then maybe you may get supportive feedback.

[Mika]

Totally agree with AreCee

[EZM]

one last question, how long is the sp1 chassis? I need to know this also.

[AreCee]

39cmThat less 4mm
DUH!!!!
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :p

(Here's a hint it's 39cm - 4mm = ??????)

[Mika]

= 38,6cm = 386mm ;-)

[Monsterbrad]

sounds to me like a truggy project!
I would like to see a short arm truggy and Komodo Dragon tires!
This may be a good combo with the buggy stretched a little but use there original drive train!

[Ball Racing]

A short arm truggy?

After all the trouble to make them wider, now you want to narrow it back up?

[balang_479]

The whole point of a truggy being better is that it has long suspension arms and if you shorten them you'll loose loads of stability. The truggy tyres have so much grip compared to buggy tyres that they had to increase the arm spam to stop the car rolling... You cant shorten them!

Mika you from neobuggy.net too... haha

[Mika]

Same guy :-) haha

[Mika]

My new SP2 Crowd Pleazer body

http://www.snrt.net/777d.jpg
http://www.snrt.net/777e.jpg

[balang_479]

same here just painted.. the Proline body is really nice, it has like an integrated wing at the back for increased down force, cant wait until the ondulated buggy wing from Proline comes out to back the aerodinamics of the body out.


http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/balang_479/3001.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

My new SP2 Crowd Pleazer body

http://www.snrt.net/777d.jpg
http://www.snrt.net/777e.jpg

That green matches almost perfect.. excellent..

[balang_479]

Im trying to reduce weight in car as much as possible where i can without sacrificing durability or stiffness. Does anyone know where weight can be cut down?

[dgrobe2112]

some people are using carbon radio tray, and top plate.. i have also seen some people drill holes in the drive cups.. and stuff like that..

[balang_479]

Holes in the drive cups.. im not so sure i wouldm trust that... maybe it really helps but for safety and durability ill keep them intact... but are there any parts or plastis here and there can be trimmed. For instance the diff cases.. im sure you could shave some off from there. I was also looking for the lay down servo radio tray from K-Factory to lower the CG, but cant find it anywhere???

[dgrobe2112]

www.racers-edge.com may have the laydown servo conversion there. sales@racers-edge.com email them and see if they got it..

[Mika]

Thanks DG, it's pretty close although depends slightly on the light

Those new Kyosho ST-R stickers are nice on the buggy, too

My clutch was cutting 1.0 spring today; after changing two I realized a small breakage on the clutch nut so I guess spring got loose and was destroyed. Changing 1.1 springs helped temporarily but now changing to a new clucth nut.. You always learn something new with this stuff, right

[balang_479]

No they dont have it..but thanks anyway..

Im sure it would make a difference when installed though, lower the CG could help the car when cornering and keep it more stable on the rough stuff..

[balang_479]

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/balang_479/K8040-1.jpg

Here it is

[Mika]

My next 777 ;-)

http://www.snrt.net/777/4s/777_4a.jpg

[balang_479]

Wow is that a 4 stroke engine or am i just stupid???

[AreCee]

Now that's cute but next time bolt it in and see what it can do.

[Mika]

Yeah, thats my plan. Just need to shave the (spare) chassis off a bit to fit the bolts. Also waiting for bigger bell. Balang, yup, that's a car purpose 4 stroke from O.S. Outlaw for racing but want to see how it will handle and compare. My LM (from where this is from and bought from eBay a while ago) was pretty fast with this and could keep up with buggies although traction was pretty bad..

[isseym88]

Mika are you using the K factory real car brake pad and the balanced brake disc? How is it? Is it worth it??

[dgrobe2112]

Issy.. Kyosho now has a brake pad they been using on the VoneRR onroad car.. they put it on the STR.. i bought them for my SP2.. and its a world of difference.. Way better than stock.. and.. way better than cradock pads.. they are made of a semi-metalic brake pad, that come on real cars.. they are around 30 bux a pair though..

I will look for the part number when i get home.. if your interested..

[balang_479]

It hard to see how much better they can be. When my SP2 pads where new the braked so much the wheels would block even on tarmac, i wonder if the STR ones will lock up on carpet? image the stopping distance...

[isseym88]

thanks . I will get it from Amain hobby. I think I need to buy the str brake screws too. I bought the TKO Dual Action piston and it sucks. The fit of the piston is not good so the shock travel can get stucked some time and wont rebound. I have a fioroni dual action piston coming...

I would like to see more user review of the new items for mp777 posted here so I wont make the same mistake again.

I also make a wrong choice of buying the rmv speed 3. It really does have the same issue as stated by TWF8 website. It has durability and wear issues. May be the material it is made of is too soft. (Bare in mind, I am not refering to the clutch shoes and the clutch spring)but the flywheel and clutch assembly it self

[dgrobe2112]

Isseym.. the STR brake calipers come with the screws.. part number is IFW324. you will need to order 2.. to do the complete brake setup. always feel free to post questions on here, i check this site all the time. And if i dont know the answer i will do my best to find it.

[Mika]

Mika are you using the K factory real car brake pad and the balanced brake disc? How is it? Is it worth it??

Hi, I'm just using the callipers and two pairs of craddock discs. I like them cause the easy maintenance.

But if you want the best do the like the other guys are saying, the news ST-R pads have crazy stopping power. Some local racers are using 'em already.

[balang_479]

Anyone got any info on any new parts coming out for the supposed arrival of the SP3???? aparently some people have the new wing mount... or they just added a brace to it..

[balang_479]

world champs 1/10 EP on and going to watch em just to see

[balang_479]

Instead of buying the K-factory laydown servo conversion i thought i would do it my self...

I got the plastic radio tray mount and drilled holes into them so that i could secure the servo, luckily the servo mount line up perfectly with the radio tray holes.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/balang_479/364002.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/balang_479/364004.jpg
Then mounted it, it worked perfectly and only took me about 30 minutes to do the conversion and no extra bits required.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/balang_479/364006.jpg http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/balang_479/364005.jpg

Really easy to do and lowers center of Gravity,

Balang_479

[dgrobe2112]

Pretty nifty idea.

[dgrobe2112]

and those are factory locations on the radio tray post?? does the servo touch the chassis?

[AreCee]

The radio tray post do line up rather well to a standard sized servo. Though I would have used a more substantial steering rod than a bent wire.

My only question is how much of a benefit can you get by moving a small, in camparison to the engine cooling head, weight such as the upper 8mm or so of a servo? Wouldn't those huge aftermarket cooling heads negate any benefit? What about the mass of the wing and shock towers?

[dgrobe2112]

Me personally, i dont see how a lay down servo would lower that much weight.. but if you think about it.. the servo gears, are being lowered below the radio tray.. so.. there is some weight.. but not that much.. but it is a very neat idea..

[balang_479]

Everything is stock didnt get anything new. not even a screw.
The servo is about 2/3mm from the chassis and about 1mm from the radio tray.
Ive used the bent wire method for an intire season and it works perfectly, no friction and indestructible.

Basically i knew it was possible and it only took me 30 minutes and it can do only good.

I just bought the new shock towers which are befier because ive seen many snap during races over here abd their actually lighter than stock... You cant do much to the cooling head, you could cut some fins down but i dont wanna sacrifice cooling over weight on an engine that runs rather hot (Sirio BK).

Ive cut down on weight where i can,
- titanium screw kit
- ditched the switch
- lightweight chassis and AMB transponder holder.

but the problem in a race is not speed due to weight but durability, over here the tracks arent perfect indoor or compressed, we dont use soap on the dirt, we dont trake the rocks out of the track and we dont cover up the pot holes even after a race. The tracks are deadly and ive seen them all when it comes to damage, the tracks in Italy and most of europe are RAW,

Like in america the MotoX tracks are perfect and sculpted, while in europe, their worn out forests or messed up hills and valleys, and i think thats what makes it more interesting,

Suspension setup
is absolutely crucial

[balang_479]

Hey MIKA,

looking at the photo of the 4 stroke buggy i noticed on the wing a Driver name Decal with obviously your name, are you a well know driver i Finland (do you race the nationals)?

Ben

[AreCee]

balang - you should see the track that I race at in Wisconsin USA, I'll bet you would feel right at home on it. :) It has holes within the holes and loose like you wouldn't believe. However, the greatest hazard is not the track itself but the yahoos driving in the wrong direction (during a race!!! :eek: ) and cutting the course. :mad:

[balang_479]

haha, thats cool, well my last race i did, the cars would suddenly to 300 flips cause their was a hole of rock that you didnt see, it was crazy, onetime my car also stopped dead as it hit a boulder on the track, gashed my chassis :( it also very hard to actually complete a race because 99% of the time you brake something suring the Mains, last race alone i broke:

clucth bell,
rear arm,
3 bent pins,
bent the one hole side of the cooling fins,
gashed the chassis,
servo,
and my car ran off a couple of times (over revved engine).

The hits are so hard the battery plug disconnect so i zip tie them now.

[isseym88]

Can someone tell me where to buy for stick on chassis protector? I need to use it to protect my chassis and top of shock tower and may eb engine head.

[matrix_mimi]

Can someone tell me where to buy for stick on chassis protector? I need to use it to protect my chassis and top of shock tower and may eb engine head.

Try rc-toro.com. They have lots of MP 777 parts

[J_Bone]

I finally got my Cezch body...

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/4944/dsc0161125dt.jpg
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/421/dsc0161222hu.jpg
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/4661/dsc0161424bw.jpg

[balang_479]

that is nice.. Cezch body meaning custom painted on the crowd pleaser???

[isseym88]

one question here...when you use H block do you have to swtch the plastic insert so that 'H' is on top.?

[Mika]

Hey MIKA,
looking at the photo of the 4 stroke buggy i noticed on the wing a Driver name Decal with obviously your name, are you a well know driver i Finland (do you race the nationals)?
Ben
Hi Ben, Well sort of.. I do yes, but there are bunch of drivers who are better and drive on international level, like Joseph Quagraine who is Ex-K and drives Hobao these days. (After a month Nordics Championships -06 are held at my local track which is nice of course)

Nice work on the laydown servo!

Guys, how much do you use offset on your swaybars / stabilizers ?

After doing few races with 5-5-1 diff setup I went back to 5-7-2 and I like it slightly better

[balang_479]

try keeping the rear diff on 1000, i learned to keep it thin, other wise the back end because more erratic, but 7000 in the center is good (i have 9000).

When you mean offset of the sway bars do you mean the extra rod on the end of the bar???

[Mika]

Yes, thats what I mean

[balang_479]

I change it according to how much grip i want on the front or back,

more offset will give less grip, less offset more grip.
Last race the rear end of my car kept coming so i stiffened the front and loosend the rear swaybar (stiffer mean more offset)

[Mika]

thanks Ben.. I have 2mm in front, 1mm at rear for the moment

[balang_479]

anyone got any pics of their mp777, please show!..

[Mika]

After run
http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/777h.jpg
Also one closeup from yesterday http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/777fL.jpg
As you can see I switched back to Racers Edges chassis stiffeners, they fit my driving style better than the new blue ST-R braces from Kyosho
Even the track is rutted I'm faster with these
Also put blue springs back to all four corners and diffs back 5-7-2
Rear shock pistons are 1.5mm holes
FAST and EASY :D

[Mika]

Hi guys,
I actually did the 4-stroke conversion..Few pics below. Weight is less than 3,4 kilograms

http://www.snrt.net/777/4s/4Tb.jpg

http://www.snrt.net/777/4s/4Ta.jpg (had to open the body quite a bit)

http://www.snrt.net/777/4s/4Tc.jpg

http://www.snrt.net/777/4s/4Td.jpg (quite tight but it all fitted nicely)

http://www.snrt.net/777/4s/4Tf.jpg (quite a bit of dremeling, 1 screw missing haha)

It rocks! - The power of 4-stroker really pulls the car.. difficult to imagine the torque w/o seeing..I try take some video soon.

I'm actually using 18T clutch bell so the top speed is pretty decent, I would say it's close to a two stroker. Expecting to hit a track soon to run against two strokers there...

Going back to a 2 stroker for racing it takes less than 1/2 an hour since this is built on a spare chassis and a old body...

[J_Bone]

Mika,
I like it!!! I don't know if I wnat one in my buggy but I was going to put one in a MT and try it.

[Mika]

Thanks man, I can say it is worth trying! :)

17T bell has been shipped so I'm waiting for it.. it might provide just a little bit low-end punch that is needed on our local track...if this 18T proves to be too long

[balang_479]

Thats is awesome, love to see a vid and to see how it goes on the track, compared to the 2-strokes. must say it fits quite nicely (apart from the body trimming, although you though said it was a spare so its fine).

Cool experiment

[Mika]

:D
Vids
Starting up http://www.snrt.net/4s.mov

Some driving http://www.snrt.net/4s1.mov

[J_Bone]

Cool deal!!! I like it! I want one now. I love my 4-stoke MX bike, now an RC!! Sick!
:D :D

[balang_479]

love sound, also seems like you can accelerate full without having to worry about over revving or maxing it explode if you know what i mean, its graceful yet goes damn fast... wicked

[Mika]

Driving on the track was a blast today! Really smooth..easy driving. Could do the big airs like a 2-stroker. One tank lasted over 12 minutes(!) I think the CG is lower, so I didn't flip at all...Cool!

http://www.snrt.net/777/4s/ar1.jpg

[StevePond]

Nice! I like it. :) Is that the OS .40 engine?

[Mika]

Thanks Steve! Yes, it is. O.S. FS-40S-C

[StevePond]

I'd like to see a real effort to produce a very powerful four-stroke for RC car applications. I love the O.S. four-stroke car engines, but they're very similar to the airplane versions, which aren't really built for a great deal of power. Id like to see the RC equivalent of what's happened in the MX market. Ten years ago you couldn't get anyone to buy a four-stroke because they lacked the power and developement of the two-stroke bikes. Now you'd have a hard time selling a two-stroke because the modern four-strokes are superior.

[Mika]

Fully agree!

[balang_479]

yeah like have 3.5cc 2 stroke an then a 5 or 5.5cc four stroke in the same category, like you said like in MX, have to types of engine with the same power equivalent

[J_Bone]

I'd like to see a real effort to produce a very powerful four-stroke for RC car applications. I love the O.S. four-stroke car engines, but they're very similar to the airplane versions, which aren't really built for a great deal of power. Id like to see the RC equivalent of what's happened in the MX market. Ten years ago you couldn't get anyone to buy a four-stroke because they lacked the power and developement of the two-stroke bikes. Now you'd have a hard time selling a two-stroke because the modern four-strokes are superior.
I agree 100%. I've been on a 4 stroke since 2000 and I'm never going back. Well, only in my RC's for now. :D

[balang_479]

Anyone got any SP3 news apart from the added wing mount??

[Mika]

Hi, well there were rumours about new carbon main gear(!), new hexes for only the other side of the car with reversed threads, new wing mount, new A-arms (that we already have I guess), new servo saver spring, new brake pads+callipers, what else.. Not sure what will be included in the kit.

[balang_479]

Carbon Main Gear?!?, what to reduce weight, better make it damn resistant.
The new brake pads you mean the semimetallic ones?? And which A-arms sorry?
thanks

[dgrobe2112]

kyosho is releasing new Carbon Fiber side guards.. i doubt these will be included in a kit.. only option parts

The wing mount, and arms, are just updated materials, harder and such, you can order them allready from kyosho, or have your hobby shop order them. Same partnumber, just has an "H" added to the part number.. also, the rumor of the extra peice on the wing mount, is not true, that is a addon alot of racers do to their car on their own.

The STR has the Vone brake calipers, which are stupid dialed.. i put them on my buggy.. excellent braking power.. the new hexes, i heard rumor of those.. dont know much about them yet.. the servo saver spring is supposed to be harder, and stiffer..

[invsible]

so are they like the k-factory hubs?

[Mika]

Carbo main gear..yes. That was shown along with Kanai's car some time ago. Also the other new parts. Maybe so with the wing mount, have done it myself, too.

[balang_479]

I think i have the the new rear arms installed, their have reinforcements in them and a slight kickup, New hexes?? obviuosly not meaning size but maybe length to make the car wider and more stable!??!

[EZM]

ok whats the difference between the sp2 diffs and sp1 diffs?

[Mika]

SP1 has TCD (=LSD) in front, other than that no difference

New hexes mean only reversed threading on one side to avoid getting loose when driving, size is the same

[EZM]

so only the front diff is an lsd? what about the racers edge hop ups vs the blue kings heads hop ups, which ones would you rather have?

[dgrobe2112]

I use the Racers Edge parts, hard anodized to match the chassis.. also, if you bend or break a part.. they will replace them for free..

[EZM]

would you need a receipt or no?

[isseym88]

Can i put Str front and rear diff on the mp777?

[isseym88]

when is the sp3 coming out???

[dgrobe2112]

EZ.. i doubt it.. just send in the old part.. should be good to go..
Issey.. dont think there is a release date.. i think the SP3 is still in development stages

[dgrobe2112]

SP3, is still just a rumor also.. not definite saying there is a SP3.. just factory guys testing new parts

[balang_479]

isseym88

you cant put the STR diff in with the bevel gear becuase they will reduce the final drive ratio so youll get more accelerationbut no top speed, they did this so the STR didnt need a big spur gear to gear down so they geared down also in the diffs. They look nice and and durable but they will ruin your performance

[Mika]

if you want similar looking diffs you can put Giga force diffs which are cut the same way, I think..

[nigru]

Hi, we have a small track with tight turns, and I seem not having a lot of steering. What settings must i change to have steering? Please reply

[balang_479]

by steeing do you mean the actual angle at which the wheels fully turns or the handling round a track?

[EZM]

Which upgrades are the best, king headz or Racers edge? meaning material,value and looks?

[Mika]

racers edge is perfection at least

[nigru]

I want to take corners at a smaller radius.

[balang_479]

You could install the 22° hub carrier which will decrease the turning radius, but other wise it should be at the limit so that it does not bind with the steering link,

you could increase the Toe Out (negative Toe In), that should help,

other wise stock is pretty tight

[isseym88]

thanks for the info on the str diff....also found out the str front shock body is longer than the sp2 , the str shock shaft is also longer. anyone try a pair of front str shock and put it on the 777? I was going to get a set of new front shock for the 777 so I would like your opinion on this.By the way, just wondering if the str fuel tank will fit in a 777 just for the sack of getting a better run time during normal practise.

[AreCee]

isseym88 - OK, you will practice with the larger fuel tank and then change it for the stock one to race. Is that your plan?

If you want greater front suspension down travel then get the longer shocks but then you may end up popping the bones out of the drive cups. Also more down travel will allow the buggy to roll over easier.

[isseym88]

yeah that's my plan I dun want to keep refueling when I am not racing.... so its confirm that the str tank is a direct replacement right???

[AreCee]

Quien sabe?

[balang_479]

yeah it will fit on the chassis but you will have some body fitting issues. As the tank it alot taller itll bind with the body, so you either run with it off or cut a spare body.

[dgrobe2112]

for a tight track.. what i would do on the car is go down in the front hubs.. that will give more turn in.. on tight stuff.. but it will give an on power push, you can go to less toe in the reear, for that.. and move the rear lower shock position outter hole..

[J_Bone]

I setup my buggy for a real bumpy track and when I moved my shocks out, I noticed the right rear Uni was popping out when I would bottom out. ***?? I replaced it with a front Uni but the fact that it did that kind of have me feeling mad.. :mad:

[balang_479]

you mean popping out of the diff???

[J_Bone]

Yes..

[dgrobe2112]

the reason for that, is cuz the arm has more up travel when moved out.

[balang_479]

yeah there no way it could just pop out for that, it just doesnt bend out. There must be something loose. Look at the lower hing pins, they could be out of the mount with no e-clips, so when it bottoms out, it comes loose and detaches its self and opens to let the diff out.

[J_Bone]

dgrobe2112,
Ya, it didn't do it till I moved them out. But I did notice the Uni goes in farther in the diff cups on the driver side than on the passenger side. So on full uptravel the driver side is ok. I shimmed the diff for the pinion gear, maybe I will try re-shimming it and see if that will balance it out again.


balang_479,
Nothing is missing and the hinge pins are brand new. First race with the new ones.

[balang_479]

If shimming it doesnt solve the problem you could always move the upper arm (link) on the lowest possible position of the shocktower, this will move the hub closer as the suspension travels upwards, so it should not pop out, try if all else doesnt work.

[J_Bone]

If shimming it doesnt solve the problem you could always move the upper arm (link) on the lowest possible position of the shocktower, this will move the hub closer as the suspension travels upwards, so it should not pop out, try if all else doesnt work.Ya, but that would give it more sway or roll and that isn't what I want. I have it in the center inside hole now.

[balang_479]

well no, the car will still be stable but when it compresses you will get more camber, more stability but depending on what tyre you got mounted less traction. If you have a flat tyre as in .-----------. you may loose grip but if you have a round tyre (prolines are mostly rounded) .--****--. the grip change wont be noticable.

[J_Bone]

That's not the solution to the problem. :confused: I don't want to change it because it handles perfect and is dial on that track with that setup. I know of 3 other guys with the same setup and don't have that problem.

[dgrobe2112]

JB.. did reshimming the diff fix the problem?? I have never had an issue with the bones coming out.. dont know why.. i have seen others with that problem, me personally have not.. they say to use the front unis in the rear.. and problem solved.. i understand your frustration though..

[J_Bone]

JB.. did reshimming the diff fix the problem?? I have never had an issue with the bones coming out.. dont know why.. i have seen others with that problem, me personally have not.. they say to use the front unis in the rear.. and problem solved.. i understand your frustration though..
Ya, I'm using the front uni's in the rear....lol.

I wonder if Steve Pond can give some insight?

[balang_479]

wow, so using the front unis in the rear worked,, thats awesome, never had a problem like that though, so you out the rear one in the front or you had others???

[J_Bone]

I didn’t have any extras myself, but a local Kyosho driver by the name of Trevor Clement gave me the front uni's.

[balang_479]

Wow, he just gave them to you or sold them too you??

round here i have to buy everything from locals at races...

[buggynic]

I changed my front and rear uni with Hobao's uni. I did this after I bend my front uni. No problem with bend or pop out universals anymore.

[balang_479]

So the Hobao Hyper8 or Hyper7 unis??? and their obviously cheaper right??

[buggynic]

it's from hyper7 (dont know much about hyper8 uni's whether it is the same as hyper7).

I forgot the part number but the one I put in rear has 3 'ring' mark at one end (at the diff side). the front uni got no mark at all.

it has been quite some time I forgot which one is longer (front or rear). a bit lazy to open the hub to check the exact length :)

[buggynic]

oh forgot something, yes, it is cheaper too

[J_Bone]

I've never bent a Kyosho Uni. Why did you use Hobao? I know my old Hyper didn't have the quality my Kyosho has.

[dgrobe2112]

and.... ofna universals are pretty expensive as well..

[buggynic]

Overall, I like 777 better than hyper7 but I do think that hyper7 uni's is much stronger than 777. I did bend kyosho uni but never happen again after I replaced it with hyper' unis. Some driver here have the same experience like me and they gave me the idea to change it with hyper7's uni.

Hyper unis also cheaper than kyosho, at least here in Jakarta.
Last year I think hyper7/ofna/hobao did a great help to make buggy racing popular here because they sells pretty good kit with lower price.

[balang_479]

Plus Kyosho spares and options are above avergae expensive, while other makes are at a realistic price, like here CVDs are like 50 euros which is like 65 bucks for just 2. and a chassis is 70 euros which is like 88 dollars.

But the may thing i gotta complain about is that Pro-line tyres are damn expensive like 54 euros for a full set which is like 68 bucks for every time that i want some new rubber, i still buy them instead of other makes because you can see the performance difference, we do have GRP which are good but prefer PL all the way for quality and endurance ad especially grip...

[StevePond]

In Pro-Line's defense, there are surely some significant costs to importing those tires from the US which adds to the price, but there is also a lot of R&D expense. Those tires didn't get that good without a lot of tests of different rubber compounds, tread patterns, sidewall construction, etc. To make the best tire, there is a considerable amount of development costs, so naturally the selling price will be a little higher. The GRP tires made in Italy should cost quite a bit less.

As for the Kyosho product, we are in a similar position. When we develop a car from the ground up and choose the best materials, it's going to cost a little more. When Hobao copies something that someone else has made, it should cost less. I'll have to disagree with you that anything Hobao makes is up to Kyosho standands. This isn't a thread for debating this topic, however, as this is a forum for Kyosho enthsiasts to share information about set-ups and the like related to the 777.

[evaderstman]

Hey guys I wanted to introduce myself here. I have been racing a hyper 7 now for about 6 months, and I just bit the bullet and ordered a sp2, os rg, and a jp-1 pipe. I should have it in a week or 2. Anyway I know that the sp2 is pretty much bullet proof, but I was wondering what you guys recommend as far as upgrades for it. I know the steering knuckles are about the only weak point so I will be upgrading them. Anyway any info would be greatly appreciated also any setup advice for a short, tight clay track. Also Steve I was talking to you at the nats as you guys were packing up your equipment, and told you I was looking at your buggy, and well I just figured I would tell you that I did get one, and hope you were right about it helping me run a faster lap!

Thanks for all your help,
David

[dgrobe2112]

i run the Racers Edge knuckles, cuz they are almost bullet proof.. other than that.. the car is ready.. you shouldnt need to upgrade anything.. car comes with thicker towers, and everything allready..

[J_Bone]

Hey guys I wanted to introduce myself here. I have been racing a hyper 7 now for about 6 months, and I just bit the bullet and ordered a sp2, os rg, and a jp-1 pipe. I should have it in a week or 2. Anyway I know that the sp2 is pretty much bullet proof, but I was wondering what you guys recommend as far as upgrades for it. I know the steering knuckles are about the only weak point so I will be upgrading them. Anyway any info would be greatly appreciated also any setup advice for a short, tight clay track. Also Steve I was talking to you at the nats as you guys were packing up your equipment, and told you I was looking at your buggy, and well I just figured I would tell you that I did get one, and hope you were right about it helping me run a faster lap!

Thanks for all your help,
DavidWelcome!! I remember you form the Hyper thread. Any way, after 8 months I repalced 3 things.
The front knuckles (KH)
To the new Kyosho chassis braces. They do the same as the Sp-2's but the plastic seems to be stronger and last longer.
and I run 2 carbon and one aluminum clutch shoe instead of the 3 aluminum.

That's it.

[Mika]

Here you can read a bit about my 777 4-stroker www.snrt.net (nothing new tho)
Past weeks I've been testing the CEN Matrix Pro buggy (I don't think it's any better than Kyosho but it certainly has potential in it, too)
Keep up the spirit guys and happy racing folks

[evaderstman]

Cool thanks i will look into a new set of knuckles. Anyway i am really just excited to have a new buggy. The hyper 7 is a good car, but it is really starting to get out dated on the track, and since I got hooked on racing and no longer bash it just isn't for me. Anyway i will try to get some pics when i get it, and get it built. Also any tips for the build? This will be my first time actually building a kit even though i have been in rc for like 4 years now, and i am very excited!

[dgrobe2112]

the kit goes together very well.. what i have is a hobby knife.. to cut away the burrs left from the plastic trees.. also.. i read somewhere else.. when doing the shocks.. deburr the top of the shock body.. and also.. the white pistons.. when you tighten them down.. dont over tighten.. leave them tight enough so that the piston will turn on the shaft..

[AreCee]

And remember to shim the diffs to remove any side to side slop and mesh correctly with the pinion gear.

As for the shocks, deburring will not hurt but be careful not to overtighten the caps thereby ripping the bladders.

[evaderstman]

Cool thanks guys i just can't wait to get it!

[freddan]

My mp777 sp1 shocks seems to leak where the shock shaft moves up and down. I have checked the o-rings, greased them with silicone oil but shocks seems to let some silicone out anyway. I really thought the mp777 shocks where best in business?

Can I replace those orange o-rings with orings from the MBX-5 kit?

[freddan]

If you want haredened differentials bevel gears this is the way to go (Hot Bodies Differential Gear Set Hard Steel Lightning):

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLGV5&P=7

[Monsterbrad]

My buggy is up for sale!
email me at ExExCR@aol.com for pics or there are some a few pages back.
Its in good shape with all Kings Headz Stuff!
I am asking 300 and taking offers

[n30filou]

Last weekend I replaced the stock brake disks of my SP2 with the Super High Temp Brake Disks (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/24_75/products_id/4499) from Racers Edge and now the car doesn't brake very well!
The problem is that I have tried to adjust the throttle / brake linkage and have done things even worse.

Can someone please describe how to set the throttle/brake linkage correctly?

[dgrobe2112]

be sure that you do not use the pad from the SP2, only use the metal calipers.. that will cure that..

The way i set the linkage.. is to have the diff out.. and with the 2 pull arms straight.. i tighten down the calipers till they tighten on the pads.. then.. back each screw off 1/8-1/4 turn.. just for a little bit of play.

the linkage.. well.. thats basically feel.. make sure the servo is centered.. and then the blue stops.. make sure the car rolls free.. move the blue stops, with the springs in front of them.. so that they are just touching the brake slides.. be sure that the car still rolls free.. then apply brakes with the radio.. and see if the car stops hard or not.. if not.. you just need to tighten the linkage.. with the provided adjuster.. by screwing them into the servo horn.

[evaderstman]

Take a look at this it is a press release from Steve Pond that i got off the sgrid:

I figured I would post this here first for you guys, given all of the
support from the best customers in the world, and to satisfy the "I'm
sure to be right eventually" blind speculation about a new SP3 buggy
at some point in time. ;-)

A new MP777 WC Team Edition will be available in December. It's not
going to be an "SP3" with geometry and other wholesale changes that
would warrant a new "SP" designation, it's more of a full-option SP2
kit. It will still be based on the SP2 and will include as standard,
many of the option parts that have been developed for the SP2 over the
last year or so. The following will explain a little about features
and new parts that will be included in the WC Edition. Enjoy and
please let me know if you have any questions.


PRESS RELEASE

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE:

Kyosho MP777 WC Team Edition

Tuesday, August 22, 2006 - Kyosho has announced a new full-option
MP777 WC Team Edition 1/8 off-road buggy, which will be the car run by
the Kyosho International Team drivers at the 1/8 Off-Road IFMAR World
Championship in Indonesia. Based on the MP777 SP2, the new WC Edition
will include many of the option parts develop over the last year in
anticipation of the World Championship race. Each of the upgraded
parts makes incremental improvements to what is already the most
successful line of competition nitro off-road racers in the history of
RC racing.
Using the 777 SP2 as the foundation of the WC Team Edition means the
SP2 will benefit from all the parts developed for the WC Edition. In
fact, many of the parts that will be included in the WC Team Edition
kit are already available as option parts for the SP2. So if you're in
the market for a new buggy and you want the best-equipped model
available, the WC Team Edition is the clear choice. The total retail
cost of the additional factory performance parts that are now standard
in the WC Team Edition total more than $290, but the street price will
only increase by $10 over the SP2! That's $280 worth of extra value
for FREE! Current SP2 owners can also upgrade with available option
parts.

The content of the WC Team Edition kit includes many features of the
current SP2 plus all the following factory options:

• Partially equipped with titanium screws
• SP heavy-duty aluminum front chassis brace (IFW323F)
• SP heavy-duty aluminum rear chassis brace (IFW323R)
• 2 Pair of ACRE bonded semi-metallic brake pads (IFW324)
• Hard front lower suspension arm (IF330H)
• Hard rear lower suspension arm (IF331H)
• Hard wing mount (IF121H)
• Hard dish wheels (IFH001)
• 14T SP clutch bell (IFW47)
• 48T lightweight spur gear (IFW325)
• New rear shock tower (TBA)
• New, heavy-duty shock diaphram (TBA)

•• Available early December


31780B Inferno MP777 WC Team Edition Street Price: $759.99

[balang_479]

Thats awesome, thats alot for the info.

Thats a quite a bit of stuff which should make the car just abit faster than it already is, im up for it winning the Worlds, i cant wait.

[freddan]

My mp777 sp1 shocks seems to leak where the shock shaft moves up and down. I have checked the o-rings, greased them with silicone oil but shocks seems to let some silicone out anyway. I really thought the mp777 shocks where best in business?

Can I replace those orange o-rings with orings from the MBX-5 kit?

I know about the bladder issues but this is only about where shaft moves up and down where the small orange o-rings are located. The shafts are just fine (no scratches) which would harm the o-rings.

Any idea about why they are leaking?? It is wet from leaking silicon.

Thanks. :)

[balang_479]

Ive also had some leaking, but very minor.

Like i can see a small accumulation of dirt around the little hole in the shock cap. The problems must obviously with the shock cap not being thredded properly and so it comes out of the hole or even the bladder not being air tight around the edges.

[freddan]

Inside diameter is the same 3,50 mm as the Mugen MBX-5 o-rings.

Anyone knows the will work on the mp777 shocks. Key concern is “the thickness” of the o-rings and the outer diameter. Inner diameter will work just fine, 3,50 mm.

[balang_479]

The latest RCCA tells you how to solve this, grin away the top of the sharp shock body so you get a propper seal (just got the issue today, hah)...

[evaderstman]

Does anyone know of a wrench that will fit the 777 turnbuckles? I have always used pliers, but they destroy the turnbuckles, and i can't seem to find a wrench that will fit.

Thanks,
David

[J_Bone]

I've always used a small 3" or 4"Cresent(adjustble) wrench.

Looks like this.
http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00904450000?rgn=0,0,640,640&scl=2.56&fmt=jpeg

[AreCee]

A small 5.5mm wrench is perfect for the job. I use an open end 5.5mm/7mm wrench. Sometimes these are called ignition wrenches at Sears.

[evaderstman]

Cool i didn't relize they made them that small I was actually looking at wrenches like lundsford makes, but standard buggy size wrenches are 5mm. Anyway thanks for the help i will get some pics up when i have some action shots since you have all seen 777's before. Also Jbone when you said use an adustable wrench this came to mind.

http://www.rbproducts.com/reportage/results2006/WC-011.jpg]

[balang_479]

Haha, i love that... The worlds must be so much fun. I wanna be there, hope Pavidis Wins it for Kyosho!

[Toiffel]

Help....help......help.....

Ok, this is driving me crazy. My rear diff is giving me a problem, when installed in the buggy (no motor) I turn the wheels, and it feels like there is something going on with the gears, it doesn't turn freely, it feels gritty, I have taken it apart, the diff is very smooth, the bevel gear turns perfect, when I put it back in the diff box, it's great, but every single time I put it back in the buggy all of a sudden the gritty feeling comes back, now it doesn't feel gritty during a full rotation, but every half it kind of hits a rough spot and then smooth, rough spot and so on. Now here comes the weird part, this only happens when I have the buggy set with full droop, I take out droop, and the gritty feeling disapeers. What's going on?? This is driving me crazy!!!!!!!

[Mika]

Huge congrats to Kyosho and Mark Pavidis, USA, for the offroad world title 2006!!!!!

[balang_479]

Help....help......help.....

Ok, this is driving me crazy. My rear diff is giving me a problem, when installed in the buggy (no motor) I turn the wheels, and it feels like there is something going on with the gears, it doesn't turn freely, it feels gritty, I have taken it apart, the diff is very smooth, the bevel gear turns perfect, when I put it back in the diff box, it's great, but every single time I put it back in the buggy all of a sudden the gritty feeling comes back, now it doesn't feel gritty during a full rotation, but every half it kind of hits a rough spot and then smooth, rough spot and so on. Now here comes the weird part, this only happens when I have the buggy set with full droop, I take out droop, and the gritty feeling disapeers. What's going on?? This is driving me crazy!!!!!!!

The outer gears must be slightly uneven, so it could be rust or worn out.

Check the out gears.




WE WON.... GO KYOSHO, PRO-LINE AND WELL DONE PAVIDIS

[Monsterbrad]

200 for the car and all the parts and wheels I have.
Email me
ExExCR@aol.com

[isseym88]

Its time for a new chassis. Should i get the kyosho factory chassis or the dragon racing sp2 aluminum chassis?


Anyone using the dragon racing chassis, dimension wise is it the same as the original chassis? The only thing I know is they are .2mm thicker than factory chassis and factory chassis is more pricey.

Is there any thing that is against getting the dragon racing chassis?

[balang_479]

Im using the Dragon Racing chassis and it works fine, never had any problems, Its basically like any other, just way cheaper. I found mine on Ebay for like 30 bucks.

Its awesome. I have the SP1 lightened version.

[dgrobe2112]

Cool i didn't relize they made them that small I was actually looking at wrenches like lundsford makes, but standard buggy size wrenches are 5mm. Anyway thanks for the help i will get some pics up when i have some action shots since you have all seen 777's before. Also Jbone when you said use an adustable wrench this came to mind.

http://www.rbproducts.com/reportage/results2006/WC-011.jpg]

I used one from the Xray kit..

[evaderstman]

I bought a craftsman set a few days ago and it works great i just can't wait to get to a race, but unfortunatly i can't until november.

[J_Bone]

Cool i didn't relize they made them that small I was actually looking at wrenches like lundsford makes, but standard buggy size wrenches are 5mm. Anyway thanks for the help i will get some pics up when i have some action shots since you have all seen 777's before. Also Jbone when you said use an adustable wrench this came to mind.

http://www.rbproducts.com/reportage/results2006/WC-011.jpg]

:wow:

Mine is only 4 inches long. What's even funnier is that almost looks like me. :huh:

[freddan]

Sorry all tou guys having to read my issues and topics about shock leaking. You responders were all right about that the leaking was located at the top of the shocks - which easily could be fixed with some sanding.

The leaking was not located where the o-rings are located - so this information is all wrong wrong from me.

My mp777 sp1 has not been run yet so quality of the buggy will be clear in future to come. I rely on you all guys so it will most likely be top quality.

Thanks for all support! Probably Kyosho is the way to go.

I have recently run the mugen mbx-5 with no issues what so ever. I appreciate this threats dynamics. Very good for all of us. Thanks again!

[nigru]

Hi, I have a question, our local track is small, do not have a long straight, and has very sharp corners. It is made of sand, not packed sand, like the sands found in olf football grounds, and not a lot of traction....I am not sure which oil to buy for the center diff, 5000, 7000, or 10000. Which of these suits best my buggy??Please help

[dgrobe2112]

for loose surfaces, the lower the better in the center.. it will ease the power laid to the tires.. so.. out of those i would go with 5k. Your kit may have come with 4k if you got the SP1 or SP2 kit.

[EZM]

Time for some sp2 pictures. Just wanted to share my build, its still gaining weight since its last 1/8 buggy buffet, but its eating again. anyway enjoy.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0612.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0611-1.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0613.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0608.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0607.jpg

[nigru]

That must be heavy!! But I guedd it strong!!
I have a question, Os V-spec users, which glug do find that the engine works best with?? Ultra hot or hot?? Thanks

[evaderstman]

All of the v-spec guys i know run an os p3 in theres for the most part.

[balang_479]

Nice buggy, what chassis is that? looks not light-weight? yeah looks heavy.

[dgrobe2112]

that buggy is not heavy.. racers edge parts are the same weight, or lighter than stock parts.. that is not a stock chassis..

[evaderstman]

That chassis can not possibly wiegth the same or less than stock as it isn't milled. As for the rest it should be about the same wieght as stated. Also i would ditch the solid chassis braces they make the car much harder to drive as they stiffen the chassis too much.

[AreCee]

Also i would ditch the solid chassis braces they make the car much harder to drive as they stiffen the chassis too much.
Very true, I dumped the King Hedz braces for the new Kyosho braces and my lap times improved on the same rough track. The buggy just seems to run smoother.

[J_Bone]

Hey guys.... My SP-2 is up for sale...
It's an SP-2 with
New Kyosho chassis braces
One race on brand new clutch shoes and springs. Currently running 2 carbon with 1 aluminum. The extra 1 carbon and 2 aluminum are included
Avid bearings
King Headz Knuckles, front shock towers, top plate and A lower block.
New hinge pins
New in the bag rear wing and 2 old ones as well
Mike Czech body (freshly painted and not even cut out, worth $60) and old on included
Hex heads screws(while still some Philips are still on it, the hex replacements are included)
One race on rebuilt diffs (4-6-2)
One race on brand new shocks (60wt-35wt)
and a lot of small misc. stuff like diff shims, hub nuts, throttle-brake assembly and many many other parts.
Sorry for no current pictures (camera is on it's way and will post pic's ASAP)
Make me an offer....shipping extra.


Plus I have a Nova Rossi P5X with RB mods. This thing screams! Just broken in with just 1 and a half gallon on it.
same....make a reasonable offer. Look in the buggy picture below for picture of engine. Will include a JP-1 or JP-2 pipe. Both can be bought too... Will include a cheaper deal if sold with buggy...


Here's a older picture...
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/members/jbone/Czech_body.jpg (Body picture)
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/members/jbone/IMG_1928.JPG (Old buggy picture)

[EZM]

Well let see, the chassis weighs exactly the same as stock and the bearings are boca bearings. Yeah racers edge are lighter and stronger than stock so its all good. As for the braces im keeping. I riged up the arms so that theres more flex in those which evens out the stiff problem while still maintaining the rigidtry on jumps that is possible with the braces. An update today.

[balang_479]

Ive never really been a fan of Aluminium cars (meaning everything possible in aluminium) as i think plastic is strong enough for anything and it alows some flex. But lately ive been trying to make my car more durable and i believe Aluminium pin mounts are a must and super hardnened suspension pins are also vital (ive had some issues in finishing racers here in the rough tracks of Italy).

[EZM]

it is true that suspension pins are weak and when they bend they can tie up the arms movement so that is true, but plastic is not really strong enough as it usually strips faster and under the heat it softens up so it makes it easier to break something or create laf between parts.

[AreCee]

Two years of racing the 777 and the front and rear plastic hinge pin holders are fine. I'll just replace them as normal maintenance for next season. At the cost of alloy ones I can go for about ten years of plastic parts. JMHO

[balang_479]

Two years of racing the 777 and the front and rear plastic hinge pin holders are fine. I'll just replace them as normal maintenance for next season. At the cost of alloy ones I can go for about ten years of plastic parts. JMHO

yeah the rear pins mounts are not an issue, but ive ripped all the front plastic pin mounts and ive recently invested in RC Dragon ALuminium counterparts.

[EZM]

the rear suspension pins tend to bend, so those could be upgraded. ypu guys know if the x1 cr shocks are as long as the sp2 shocks?

[dgrobe2112]

i dont run the stock ones, i run the Racers Edge hard anodized pieces.. i have seen the stock plastic ones break on a hot bodies before, but not on the Kyosho.

[balang_479]

How many tooths do you generally use on your clutch bell???
ive been using a 15 tooth, but cloud use a 16 tooth to try and keep the revs down a bit. Most people i know use a 14 to get more acceleration and they scream, my Sirio Bk seems to accelerate faster with the 15 and still screams. i Might change to a 16t to keep the revs down, therefore temps down hopefully, and get more speed because acceleration doesnt seem to be a problem.

[dgrobe2112]

wow.. what spur gear are you running?? i run the new Sirio BX engine, and also a P5, never been over a 14t.. currently run a 13t.. pros are going 13t, with a 48t spur.. which is even more bottom end.. i cant imagine a straight long enough to need that kinda gearing..

[evaderstman]

In Europe tracks usually have massive straghts and are generally very wide open and fast. Most guys over there use a 46 tooth spur as well. This is just what i have heard though and it may not be true in his case.

[StevePond]

I run a 13 tooth clutch bell and a 48T spur with a Sirio .21 BX STI engine.

[EZM]

all you really need is a 13t bell, unless you have something higher than a .21 because they tend to have too much torque.

[dgrobe2112]

You forget Steve.. that BX STI, is straight ballistic.. never stops pullin.. whats this i heard bout Ryan, pullin Tebo down the straight, with a 3 car head start.. :)

[balang_479]

well im running a 48t spur and a 15t bell and it still revvs high and gets incredible high speeds, yet it keeps up with everything in the pack, the BK Evo II is so powerfull. Most people here run 14y or 15t, never 13t (unless the track is extremely techincal.

[EZM]

New update let m,e know what you think, enjoy.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0033.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0032.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0029.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0028.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0027.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

Car looks good dude.. on the rear shock tower.. your camber link cap head washer, is on the wrong side.. but im sure you did that for bling right? :) lookin good man.. and personally, i would turn the captered ends around on the rear.. so the nut is on the back.. dont gotta take the pins out to change the rear block.. or chance the rear diff.. same with the front..

[AreCee]

Maybe he's just storing the cap washers there until he installs the upper links.

[dgrobe2112]

Maybe he's just storing the cap washers there until he installs the upper links.

i would agree.. however, looks like the screw he has through there is too long..and wont allow to put the blue piece on the other side.. no thang..

[balang_479]

What chassis is that? (i think youve said before but i forgot).

[AreCee]

i would agree.. however, looks like the screw he has through there is too long..and wont allow to put the blue piece on the other side.. no thang..
Yep, screw's too long.

[EZM]

I did put the cone shaped washers for the upper links on that side for blingand support. I need to get longer screws tho so i can install a washer and lock nut after the link is clipped in so it doesnt pop off in a crash or something. Chassis is made of gray coated aluminum.(just kidding lol)its a stock sp2 chassis.As for the nuts on the pins, i did that because i didnt like how the nuts look out in back.

[balang_479]

I did put the cone shaped washers for the upper links on that side for blingand support. I need to get longer screws tho so i can install a washer and lock nut after the link is clipped in so it doesnt pop off in a crash or something. Chassis is made of gray coated aluminum.(just kidding lol)its a stock sp2 chassis.As for the nuts on the pins, i did that because i didnt like how the nuts look out in back.

That cant be the Stock SP2 chassis, it doesnt have the lightened cut out indents, it must be an after market piece.

[EZM]

correct, its made by fioroni out of coated titanium.

[balang_479]

correct, its made by fioroni out of coated titanium.

wow.. must be amazing. I know Fioroni, i often race against him, his shop is like 20mins from home.

[Mika]

Hi Ben, it means "little flowers" correct?

Nice chassis indeed. The car is a tank, indesctrutable .. Cool.

Although personally don't like K-Factory hinge pins because they wear out other parts too fast.. using shims help tho.