Inferno MP777 [Archive] - Page 13

EZM

10-29-2006, 07:12 PM

New update,let me know what you guys think, its pretty tough just need to order a tank, hex hubs cause the jammin front hex hub pins wont go in and they look like plastic and not anoized black. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0075.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0073.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0072.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0071.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0070.jpg

balang_479

10-30-2006, 06:32 AM

Awesome car, its kitted out to the max, is anything original, lol.

Amazing , must be indestructible.

When its finished car you weigh it? with tires and battery.
thanks

dgrobe2112

10-30-2006, 09:13 AM

I dont see anything on the car that would weigh much more than stock.. so shouldnt weight too much..

balang_479

10-30-2006, 10:14 AM

aluminium is always heavier than plastic, so i wanna see if what he has swapped from Plastic to aluminium will make a difference.

dgrobe2112

10-30-2006, 10:47 AM

i gotcha.. like the rear hubs, and rear toe blocks.. upper and lower front blocks.. i got all those done on my car.. and.. not a noticable difference.. from my brother stock SP2..

balang_479

10-30-2006, 02:01 PM

Ill have to get some Fioroni OTs on then, I have lighter front hubs.

Ill have to get front lower pin mount and rear hubs in alu. then and see if it makes a difference, even though ive never had any issues with them.

dgrobe2112

10-30-2006, 02:46 PM

Well fioroni makes nice stuff.. i run the racers edge parts, i like the hard anodized look of everything.. matches the chassis.. and.. they are guaranteed.. if you break a shock tower, or bend one.. or something like that.. send it in.. you get a new one.. great service.. and the hard anodizing doesnt come off as easy as say the blue, or black of Fioroni.. looks good for a long time..

balang_479

10-30-2006, 04:56 PM

true, but round here Fioroni is cheaper than Racers Edge and i know Mr. Fioroni so i might be able to get something a little cheaper if i see him at the track. The anodized is cool but i think the blue to match it all is a little cooler.

dgrobe2112

10-30-2006, 10:15 PM

my bad.. i forgot you from italy.. srry bout that..

EZM

10-31-2006, 12:50 AM

I like the racers edge alot better than the quickly faded blue as ive owened it before.Racers edge is noticiably lighter than say king heads or fioroni and yea it matches everyhing. as you can see i only have black,gold,and blue which is good.Personally i hate carbon fiber and blue on the shock towers, and braces.plus racers edge looks hell of a lot better than those.

piggybackrevo

10-31-2006, 05:40 AM

heres some photos of my mp777 truggy just did the basic layout i ordered newer parts yeesterday im getting rid of the blue going to go to the carbon fiber look... i kinda like it plus i can get it cheap and it looks really sweet... all i got left to do is hook my receiver and battery up and im good to go.... let me know what you guys think

balang_479

10-31-2006, 06:53 AM

love it, but i would get 17mm extended hubs instead.
im gonna onvert one of my SP2 into a truggy and thought about just getting the MSR777t chassis and rear shaft and then do the rest my self, if i cant find it alone.

EZM

10-31-2006, 11:36 AM

Nice truggy, if the blue never faded it would be great, but it does, i just dont like carbon because its weak, so unless youre a pro who knows how to drive then stick with aluminum.

balang_479

10-31-2006, 02:23 PM

It doesnt matter that much if it fades. i mean its more for performance than looks. I know what you mean but its not that big of a deal, ive had blue everything for about 1 years racing season and nothing has faded.

Mika

10-31-2006, 03:14 PM

Coating on Racer's Edge parts last forever.. My steering knuckles still look like new bought them early 05

piggybackrevo

10-31-2006, 10:26 PM

i have the 17mm hexs and there great but i have 2 sets of those tires that fit the 14mm that came with the msr777t chassis so im wearing them down first i got like 10 sets for 17mm... as far as the blue goes im going to keep it i guess the carbon fiber you cant get the shock towers in i dont know if i can dye it a different color?? or what to do to make it a better color i would love to do it in different color i just ordered a new sp2 shock tower for the front so we will see what color it comes in.... as far as braking carbon fiber parts like radio tray and steering top plate ive never broke one in my history of racing rc/s so well see....

piggybackrevo

10-31-2006, 10:27 PM

when i get the new shock towers and the new drive shafts and stuff on there iwill take more pics its put away cuz i hit a vehicle on accident lol broke front shock tower bent the front drive shaft and all that

EZM

10-31-2006, 11:50 PM

hey piggy, in the pics i can see the rear shock tower is a aluminum striped color, i guess that either faded or you polished it huh? what clutch are you running?

piggybackrevo

11-01-2006, 12:52 AM

3 piece ofna aluminum cnc clutch shoes and springs,and no that is how i got the shock tower actually straight from kyosho... as far as fading goes the color on the shock towers WILL NOT FADE at least these wont i gurantee that much.... i run ofna aluminum cnc clutch shoes in all my truggies i dont like the racing clutchs they dont last as long as these do

balang_479

11-01-2006, 07:09 AM

those rear show towers are nto Kysoho ones, they are Dragon ERacing but i have seen them in a lot of truggy conversions and they are sanded down like that. They look good because of all the mounting positions.

balang_479

11-01-2006, 07:12 AM

EZM i can see that you have the hex screw kit installed. SO do I, but i have realised what a hassle it is to remove something, the threads are so narrow that you have to do 200 turns to take a screw out and its tiering, but they wont fall out during a race.

I have 2 SP2s and one has the normal screw kit and its so much easier on the normal one with the plastic threads. Hexs are good but i hate it when i have to pull it apart.

EZM

11-01-2006, 11:23 AM

Yeah i realized that too, I dont mind getting them out because i have a good hobbico hex screwdriver set that slide at your palm and turn on the handle so its all good, personally i hate phillips heads and the way they look, like they belong on a wood project, lol. However If you look at m shocktowers I do have a couple phillips screws on the shocktowers because i couldnt find hex screws short enough to go there because the kit only came with long screws made for the stock shocktowers which are not countersunk like racers edge. they look hideous compared to the hex screws, although i might cut them, huumm...

piggybackrevo

11-01-2006, 03:06 PM

well im getting my new shock tower tommorow hopefully.... i dont know what it will look like i will put it on and span some photos for you... and balang thanks for the info but i still bought that shock tower from a kyosho dealer.... whether its kyosho part or not lol i was just saying thats where i got it

balang_479

11-01-2006, 06:15 PM

yeah the hexes do look nice on the car, especially the top deck, instead of thise blocke things you get thiny screws and the writing on the screws are trick.

piggybackrevo

11-01-2006, 09:35 PM

pics will be updated soon

EZM

11-01-2006, 10:58 PM

Anybody know if they make longer suspension pins? you know the two on each side of the bulkhead? i dont know if you can see in the pics, but i cant screw the nuts all the way into their locking ring because of the brace being too thick. I had a racers edge thin one and i switched it for this one, dammit.

piggybackrevo

11-02-2006, 12:56 AM

i highly dought that they do... might need to use a different truggies

EZM

11-02-2006, 11:27 PM

dammit, anybody wanna trade for a racers edge?lol

buggynic

11-04-2006, 11:52 AM

i just bought kingheadz 2.5 degree rear toe in block and also the 2 degree rear kickup block, I just dont like the look of golden color in my sp2, so i thought it would be cool with black color kingheadz.
the 2 degree rear kickup thicker than standard kyosho one. so the k-factory suspension pin seems to short ( same problem as EZM posted earlier).
the second problem is i cant get the pin into the rear toe in block.
I wonder if kingheadz make 2.5 degree elevation when they drill the hole on the toe in block or they just simply make it pararel to each other hole and make the distance different for 2, 2.5, or 3 degree toe in block.

any body has experience using kingheadz parts like this ?

thanks

EZM

11-05-2006, 10:34 AM

Golden? are you talking about orange gold or racers edge gold(chassis color)? if you dont like that stop hatin

piggybackrevo

11-06-2006, 02:17 AM

guys i will update pics of my truggy when i get the new shock tower drive shaft and all that but i did a little shopping at lowes today AKA mostl like home depot incase you guys dont have one... but i got 2 bodies sitting here that i really like they are proline hummers for the tmaxx.. i been wanting to convert them to fit on my msr777t truggy and i finally got it.... i went to lowes spent 3 dollars each on a long tube of stainless steel but im only using the end of it... i bought 2 more body mounts for the rear cuz they fit right in the little cap thats on the end of it.... and im going to glue them in there and it will be about 3 inches long the front fits perfect so i can just use the stock mounts for that.... i got the extra mounts for when i wanna run the original body... but let me tell you it works and looks great.... i had to cut a section out of the rear to fit over teh wing mount but i used shoe goo and that tape stuff to strengthen the body i think it looks great... i have 3 tmaxx bodies and no tmaxx anymore so i figured why the hell not ..... if anyone interested in seeing let me know i will show some pics when i get it all back together

thanks piggy

dgrobe2112

11-06-2006, 10:06 AM

i think buggynic is talkin bout the stock gold 2deg squat plate..

Also, yes.. it is tough to get them in there takes a little finaglin.. (sp) but it should work..

buggynic

11-07-2006, 06:08 AM

you are right dgrobe, i was talking abt 2 degree rear antisquat.
anyway, after some tinkering i managed to get the susp pin into the rear toe in block. I ended up using the stock susp pin. I used the set screw both in the antissquat plate and rear toe in block to hold the susp pin in place.
Havent test it yet, hopefully it will hold just fine.

-buggynic-

dgrobe2112

11-07-2006, 09:53 AM

what you may consider doing, is putting a little flat spot in the hinge pin, similar to the SP2 shock pins.. so, the set screw will sit in a flat spot..

buggynic

11-07-2006, 01:01 PM

seems like good idea, i will try it with my dremel, I hope the pin is not as hard as it look.
thanks dgrobe.

dgrobe2112

11-07-2006, 01:16 PM

it will work.. i did it to mine.. before i got the Kfactory pins..

supraTT

11-08-2006, 12:55 PM

Looks like a great deal....

Kyosho GXR 28 and pipe (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190048593590&rd=1&rd=1)

AreCee

11-08-2006, 12:59 PM

Looks like a great deal....

Kyosho GXR 28 and pipe (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190048593590&rd=1&rd=1)
You do know that this engine is designed to be bolted directly to the Inferno Sports chassis.

If you plan to use it on a 777 then you'll need to cut off the cast in mounting bosses so it will fit on the 777 engine mounts. Ignore this comment if you are aware of this. :cool:

This is the same engine as in the ST US which I bought recently. The engine is good but is no powerhouse. The top end is a bit soft but the bottom is very strong and it revs up well in that range.

Also the manifold is a two bolt arrangement so you can't just get a new in-line pipe and manifold for it. There are very few choices of pipes as well, Nitrohouse has a few OFNA pipes but that seems to be it.

EZM

11-16-2006, 10:06 PM

This is a good deal if you wanna get that

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=250048947016&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=015

AreCee

11-16-2006, 10:27 PM

This is a good deal if you wanna get that

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=250048947016&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=015
Bet it will hit $100+ at auction's end. I think that I'm going to watch it. By the way I've decided to sell mine if someone wants it enough.

1822

11-17-2006, 10:03 AM

That guy doesn't have a very good reputation. Seven people have left him negative feedback - two of them related to engines that were "just broken in." I may be mistaken, but the anodizing is worn away from the inside of the glowplug hole, possibly from repeated use of a temp gauge. This doesn't happen burning just five tanks of fuel. Just beware - feedback ratings below 98 percent are a red flag.

EZM

11-17-2006, 10:46 AM

I looked at his feedback, its pretty good, eventhough hes got some negative, he also has good feedback from like new engines and expensive cars and stuff.Im gonna watch it as well, might bid it on it myself for my hell fire.

drgracr

11-17-2006, 11:25 AM

what tires do you run for indoor tracks?

AreCee

11-17-2006, 11:49 AM

Panther Switch C or Proline Hotshot M2

dgrobe2112

11-17-2006, 12:44 PM

inside jobs.. used up crimes work good.. indoor track with traction.. just about everything works.. :)

balang_479

11-17-2006, 01:51 PM

as long as the tires are new and sharp, youll get very good traction... just remember to lower the car incase of traction roll..

AreCee

11-19-2006, 08:47 PM

This is a good deal if you wanna get that

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=250048947016&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=015
Yep, over $100 like I called.

EZM

11-19-2006, 09:01 PM

how hard is it to cut the sp2 chassis with a dremel cut off wheel?

AreCee

11-19-2006, 11:21 PM

Why not use a hacksaw?

EZM

11-20-2006, 11:02 AM

Im not gonna cut it in half, i need to make a slit for a 3 speed

AreCee

11-20-2006, 11:52 AM

No problem then, it is aluminum alloy and not one of the hardest metals around so the cutoff wheel would slice through like a hot knife in butter. Remember to wear your safety glasses in case the wheel breaks.

balang_479

11-20-2006, 01:08 PM

Im not gonna cut it in half, i need to make a slit for a 3 speed

and your cut it in half? then obviously put it tother again,.. i dont quite understand what yuor doing...

dgrobe2112

11-20-2006, 04:59 PM

he isnt gonna cut it in half.. he is gonna cut another hole out in the chassis, so he can put a 3 speed diff in there..

EZM

11-20-2006, 11:54 PM

what grobe said said. oh and men dont need safety equipment heh eehh

Mika

11-21-2006, 03:52 AM

how hard is it to cut the sp2 chassis with a dremel cut off wheel?

When I did the mod for the FS engine using MP6 mounts I had to dremel the chassis quite a bit.. because it is hardened you need to push dremel quite hard but it will work. I used this http://www.dremeleurope.com/dremelocs-fi/Product.jsp;jsessionid=2F31B81C35CFF3E2EF65943EF3C 98DFF?&ccat_id=483&prod_id=102
Check out www.snrt.net ;-)

balang_479

11-21-2006, 06:35 PM

Mika

11-22-2006, 03:49 AM

Ben, I think you have a broken clutch spring..check
For SBK21 alu shoes and 1.1 (the basic setup) is good

balang_479

11-22-2006, 03:58 AM

oh ok, ill look. but the last time i looked all the shoes were hard to pull out as usual.

The Kyosho clutch that i have has 1 alu shoe and 2 carbon, but unfortunately i dont know the spring n. but ill try it one of these weekends and if there is not much improvement ill set up your specifications.. thanks

evaderstman

11-22-2006, 11:27 AM

You guys should try out the werks clutch. I just bought one used from a local guy, and the thing is awsome. The only thing i don't like it that the clutch has to warm up. The first lap or so it will slip some until it gets up to temp, but being your motor has to warm up at the same time it isn't a big deal. Right now i am trying it with the light spring and carbon shoes and it has a really hard solid engagment.

balang_479

11-22-2006, 02:18 PM

its adjustable on the go right... like all you have to do s screw in the nut to tighten the spring?

AreCee

11-22-2006, 02:29 PM

That is an option for that clutch. It is an inexpensive item though but you will need to either use a vented CB or drill a hole in your existing CB to be able to insert an allen wrench or strong wire into the adjusting slot. Once the wrench is in position you turn the flywheel to tighten or loosen the spring nut (or hold the flywheel and turn the wrench).

evaderstman

11-22-2006, 03:09 PM

Ya you need this to do it though. http://werksracing.com/product.do?sku=WRX6517

balang_479

11-23-2006, 03:57 PM

Ya you need this to do it though. http://werksracing.com/product.do?sku=WRX6517

cool stuff, must be really useful at the races for quick clucth setup changes, but can the allen reach in without having to remove anything, like carb or the engine itself?

evaderstman

11-23-2006, 04:02 PM

I don't know i don't have the quick set up nut. It looks like you could though, but i guess it depends on the engine and exhaust you have.

AreCee

11-23-2006, 04:08 PM

The allen wrench or thick wire just has to fit into that notch on the nut then you either turn the CB or the flywheel to make the adjustment. You do not need to remove anything on the buggy, a small move makes a difference.

dgrobe2112

11-24-2006, 03:36 PM

oh rite, cool project...

anyway, i have been having some problems with my clutch, i has a Sirio BK21 and it engages strong with a bit of a maybe a bit abruptley but then the revs are high and stay high if you under stand.. sound wise it goes.

mmmmmmm(idle)mmm bahhhhhhhhHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH not gradual all of a sudden and its at high revs almost instantly..

the clucth i am not using is not adjustable, but i also have the Kyosho clutch which i am going to install, what shoes and springs do you have on.

That sirio engine is a high RPM engine.. the tight clutch i think is not that bad of an idea.. and the one alum, 2 carbons is a good idea also.. here is what i do with my sirio engine, 1 alum shoe with 1.1 spring.. the 2 carbons, i run with 1.0 springs.. this allows the lighter carbon shoes to engage first.. just slightly though.. with a little slip.. then the alum comes in.. and gets the snap you need..

balang_479

11-25-2006, 11:09 AM

That sirio engine is a high RPM engine.. the tight clutch i think is not that bad of an idea.. and the one alum, 2 carbons is a good idea also.. here is what i do with my sirio engine, 1 alum shoe with 1.1 spring.. the 2 carbons, i run with 1.0 springs.. this allows the lighter carbon shoes to engage first.. just slightly though.. with a little slip.. then the alum comes in.. and gets the snap you need..

thanks alot, ill will try that, to smoothen the engagement should i also run the Alu with 1.0 or change the carbon to 1.1??

dgrobe2112

11-27-2006, 09:53 AM

well.. its up to you how you want to do it.. if your gonna run the same springs, i would run them with 1.0 springs.. that will lighten the engagemnt of that engine.. however, the alum with 1.1, and the carbons with 1.0 is how i run it.. and also alot of the factory guys been known to use that as well..

Also, its hard to understand.. but if im not mistaken, the way the engine revs high, and then falls off, might have a slight tuning issue..

balang_479

11-27-2006, 03:28 PM

I im still very rich on the hsn, like only 6 minutes for a tank when some guys get 7 ouy of it.. on the carb im like 5.5 turns out but a bit lean on the lsn that why its a bit erratic.. thanks

dgrobe2112

11-27-2006, 06:04 PM

Mika

11-28-2006, 08:06 AM

I added an extra shim to my Kanai evo with turbo head and I think I got good results with that. I used 25% nitro (Byron race 2500). You might try it out

balang_479

11-28-2006, 03:27 PM

good.. sounds like you got it figured out.. that is what i was gonna say.. maybe lean on bottom, and the sirio engine.. should get 8 mins easy on a tank.. heck.. my P5 runs well over 8 mins.. my sirio BX, with the sirio pipe.. i was almost 10 mins..

BTW.. i re-read your post.. you were explaining how the engine hits, with throttle.. not what the engine does while idling.. am i correct.. you mean..

mmmmm (idle)mmmmm punch it.... bwaaaaaaaaaaa (imediate power) right.. not a slight bog...

not what the engine does while its sitting there idling.. (right) :confused:

wow... 10mins, only well tuned OS v-specs do that over here, usually we get 6 to 7 mins out of a tank, Its always humind here in Iatly so thats could be why there is lower efficiency, as were near the sea wherever, but ill tuned to the carb this weekend by leaning the hsn and richening the lsn slightly and see how it goes,.... yea the engine power delivery is instand no gradual building up of revs and speed like the RBs and Novas, thats why i thought it was clutch setup.. ill try and mount that Kyosho clucth and see how it changes, ive been mixing up carbs from my two Sirios due to an airleaking carb during a race... thanks again, will report back..

And Mika,
i dont use the turbo plug because many people at the races strongly didnt recommend it due to more erractic power and no smooth powerband, also my LHS guy said to stick with the standard plug, thats why you must of added the shim because he said the added compression ruins the throttle curve...

dgrobe2112

11-28-2006, 03:32 PM

the standard button is easier to tune, than the turbo engine..

Mika

11-28-2006, 04:08 PM

Yeah, propably so. Well anyway it was fun to test.

EZM

11-28-2006, 08:50 PM

Update, ive been building this for over 3 months and nut much progress, but then again, i just dint build i, i perfected everything, heres the pics enjoy.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0291-1.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0289.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0288-1.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0287-1.jpg

AreCee

11-28-2006, 09:18 PM

But it doesn't have any character like dirt, ooze, gouges and scratches.

It looks like a ....... shelf queen. :eek: :driving: :bang:

AreCee

11-28-2006, 09:23 PM

Now this is a perfect chassis! :teacher: :wave: :cool:

EZM

11-28-2006, 10:56 PM

lol, youre gona laugh when you see what im gona do to the chassis to keep it unscratched.

dgrobe2112

11-29-2006, 03:30 AM

love seeing all that RACERS EDGE on a fine KYOSHO car.. visit.. www.racers-edge.com for all the hopups you need.. and www.kyoshoamerica.com for the world champion off road racing vehicle.. (cheap plug) lol

EZM

11-29-2006, 12:01 PM

what kind of engine mounts do you have on your ride grobe? they look light blue.

dgrobe2112

11-29-2006, 12:16 PM

those pics up there.. are not my car.. i run the stock engine mounts.. dont know what the ones are in the 2nd set of pics.. looks like the plates are anodized..

balang_479

11-29-2006, 01:47 PM

im sure you cannot wait to get to the track with that thing, it looks amazing... you gotta thrash it , test its durability, MP777s were not built to be shelf queens..

sweet looking ride, can you weight it for me when you have everything mounted? (engine, wheels and tires, body and wing, race ready weight basically)

AreCee

11-29-2006, 03:00 PM

what kind of engine mounts do you have on your ride grobe? they look light blue.
There are several "one piece" mount plates on ebay like #270060657546 or K-Factory makes some.

dgrobe2112

11-29-2006, 03:42 PM

AHH.. yeah.. thats what it looks like.. Kfactory.. you can get them on the racers edge website.. good eye AreCee

AreCee

11-29-2006, 04:33 PM

AHH.. yeah.. thats what it looks like.. Kfactory.. you can get them on the racers edge website.. good eye AreCee
It was an easy item to call since that is my chassis under my SP2 and I did buy and install that mount. :)

It's one of the very few non-Kyosho parts on the buggy. In fact it may very well be the only non-Kyosho part other than the tires, wheels and wing.

EZM

11-29-2006, 09:30 PM

My sp2 does not weigh much more than stock, because if you take a look, the gear on the sp2 i replaced was all the heavy stuff like the braces,upper block plate, radio tray shocktowers and hexmounts other than that theres nothing more.

EZM

11-29-2006, 10:57 PM

The heart for this transplant just arrived, any of you racers should know what this is,http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0296.jpg

dgrobe2112

11-30-2006, 11:28 AM

P5 Baby..

nigru

11-30-2006, 12:33 PM

On my kyosho I have an os vpec, but I am looking forward to put the new OS Speed V-spec!! Anyone knows when it is coming out or from where to buy it??? www.osspeed.com

balang_479

11-30-2006, 02:14 PM

On my kyosho I have an os vpec, but I am looking forward to put the new OS Speed V-spec!! Anyone knows when it is coming out or from where to buy it??? www.osspeed.com

not sure but its gonna be one amazing engine!
with that new lightweight cooling head and all..

That one amazing P5 race, their expensive too...

EZM

12-03-2006, 11:51 PM

Aight, finally, its come to this... time to fire em up!!!! were going live in a week! Heres the update!
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0331-1.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0333-1.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0329.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0327-1.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0326.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0324-1.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/rchabits/IMG_0330-1.jpg

YZ167

12-04-2006, 01:48 PM

Very nice Ride EZM.....I like it! Good luck with the transplant

Matthijs

12-05-2006, 12:58 PM

Very nice ride! 2 questions, no brakecamshaft bearings and two 'old' servo's?

I just got my sp2 WCE in today, in Europe (Netherlands) the first batch is just in...

EZM

12-05-2006, 05:06 PM

Matthis, dont understand by no brakecamshaft? bearings

AreCee

12-05-2006, 05:23 PM

He is talking about the support bearings for the brake cam levers which press on the brake pads in the center top plate. Kyosho's manual just calls for bushings.

dgrobe2112

12-05-2006, 05:51 PM

the kit does not come with bearings.. you can order bearings from AVID RC, www.avidrc.com. for like a buck a piece..

EZM

12-05-2006, 10:21 PM

i dont see any bearings or bushings in the manual, lol

AreCee

12-05-2006, 11:04 PM

Look at step 24 of the SP2 manual, it's part #95 (the thick one) from bag #9 on the same tree as the linkage items. (They're plastic bushings.)

nigrugt

12-08-2006, 06:14 PM

Need help guys!! At my track, the buggy seems to have a lot grip and is constantly flipping over!! The track is very sticky and I was using the knukle tire and changed to moab to reduce traction! What can I do to reduce flipping??

EZM

12-08-2006, 08:16 PM

lower the car and add sway bars as well as use thinner diff oil and thicker shock oil.

dgrobe2112

12-08-2006, 09:39 PM

lower the rear diff oil.. also try adding a little bit more rear camber..

evaderstman

12-08-2006, 09:52 PM

Another trick is to cut the outer row of pins off your tires. It cuts down on lateral grip and keeps you from traction rolling.

balang_479

12-09-2006, 04:29 AM

yeah definitely lower the car by taking the proload spacers off the shocks. and it its a smooth track too increase shock oil wt.

nigrugt

12-11-2006, 12:46 PM

Thanks, I will try the settings you gave me. One question, which is bet, buggy ar truggy??? Which makes best laps?

dgrobe2112

12-11-2006, 12:54 PM

depends on the track.. cuz a big open track.. they will be close.. on a tight track the buggy should be better.. but mainly.. the truck will be faster.. more nimble, wider tires.. more traction.. can drive it more punched.. i been really close with both..

Mika

12-11-2006, 12:55 PM

buggy if you can drive it without flipping

balang_479

12-11-2006, 01:04 PM

i think the development of truggies is still young, while buggies are reaching their performance peak... i a couple of years you will see Truggies seceeding Buggies, for now... Buggies.

nigrugt

12-11-2006, 01:22 PM

because on my track, trugies seem dominant now!! I think buggies fil fade in less than 2 year time!

dgrobe2112

12-12-2006, 10:15 AM

buggies, will always be my favorite, however, i see the rise of the arena truck, (truggy) simply because they are 1/8th scale fast, and more forgiving than a buggy.. many descent drivers, in buggy, can be fast with the arena truck, which is why i see more people racing the arena truck.

Buggy will be faster than the truck, due to lighter, and quicker, more nimble.. but you can get away with more in the truck..

nigrugt

12-12-2006, 10:37 AM

True, buggies also are more responsive to settings made due to the small tires and few ballooning.

Can i ask something? What tempretures do you run your engines? I run mine about 120C. But at that tempreture, I am not getting all the power of the engine! So am I doing something wrong? If I lean it, it hass more more power but it goes about 135C!!! It is V-spec.

And what clutch bell you normally use in a track which has very slow corners and long straights?

EZM

12-12-2006, 11:23 AM

well firts of all the v-spec should be running at 200c-220c not even cheap .12 engines run at that low of a temp so you should lean it. and for the long straights use a 14t clutchbell

AreCee

12-12-2006, 11:38 AM

well firts of all the v-spec should be running at 200c-220c not even cheap .12 engines run at that low of a temp so you should lean it. and for the long straights use a 14t clutchbell
120 C is still a good temp for a V-Spec but at the top of the range (that's C for Celsius EZM not F for Fahrenheit). 120C=248F

135 C would be considered to hot. You may be too lean on your LSN, try richening it up a couple hours. 135C=276F

AreCee

12-12-2006, 11:43 AM

The stock 13T clutch bell works well for up to a 50 meter track with a V-Spec. Anything longer than that and you run out of rpm, meaning you will need the 14T. However, if the track has many turns and only a single straight then you would be much better off gearing for the turns where you can gain more time than on the straight.

On the plus side is that the V-Spec can pull a 14T in the corners but you will lose some corner exit snap, it may feel a little sluggish.

nigrugt

12-12-2006, 12:05 PM

GUYS SORRY!!! I was saying 220c and when lean it, 235c! Sry!!

Is 235c harmful? I have ceramic bearings in it...

AreCee

12-12-2006, 01:13 PM

GUYS SORRY!!! I was saying 220c and when lean it, 235c! Sry!!

Is 235c harmful? I have ceramic bearings in it...
Are you sure you mean 235C not F. Because that makes it 455 degress F and that my friend will be close to blowing up the engine.

Yes that is WAY TOO HOT!!!!!!

You should be between 105C to 120C.

EZM

12-12-2006, 03:25 PM

balang_479

12-12-2006, 03:52 PM

It must be 120C°.... 220 c° will cook an engine.... otherwise its Fareingheight

120c° is pretty good, although you could go to 135c° without no problem dont worry, my Sirio runs at about 135 too and sometimes even 145 and thats because its an engine that runs hot but the v-spec should handle 135 with no problem... tune for power not temperature..

my friend went so lean once on his Novarossi that it started to smoke and melt the fuel tubing, it was at 240c° if was hardly going the piston was slowly gripping, then he richened it fully and it runs fine now, excellent actually Novas are really reliable on the long run.

AreCee

12-12-2006, 04:41 PM

No acrecee,you are confused and disoriented. celsius is correct not farenheight, because when he says 235c he means 235c with conversion done, and you are trying to include franeheight like if the conversion hasnt been done. Think about it, if he meant farenheight the engine wouldnt even run because it would constantly flame out.
EZM you must be the one confused because nigrugt is from Europe so when he originally stated that his engine was at 120C he meant it and they use Celsius there so when he said 120C it converts to 248 degrees fahrenheit which is getting too hot.

EZM

12-12-2006, 05:17 PM

Its all the same 220 c 220 f, what ever he meant the point is that he is running in the normal range,Hey nigrut, next time be clear about what you ask or dont ask at all.

AreCee

12-12-2006, 05:55 PM

Well 120-135C is the same as 248-275F. Which is what I read from his post. Even so, it's running hot and he may need to adjust his LSN to richen it up.

220-235F would be fine but a little cool at race tune. :cool:

220-235C would convert to 428-455F, I don't think you would run at those temps now, would you? :eek:

:teacher: :teacher: :wave:

EZM

12-12-2006, 10:02 PM

its all the same, he lives in a cold place so running slightly hotter is goood

dgrobe2112

12-12-2006, 11:59 PM

running the Vspec engine, at 240, is no problem at all..

balang_479

12-13-2006, 03:32 PM

yeah 120c is fine, maybe he could go hotter, (120c, 240f business)

EZM

12-13-2006, 11:18 PM

anybody wanna race for pinks here?

dgrobe2112

12-14-2006, 09:51 AM

ill race ya.. :)

balang_479

12-14-2006, 03:20 PM

anybody wanna race for pinks here?

haha, alright... where?

dgrobe2112

12-14-2006, 05:11 PM

cant make it to italy.. hahah.. if i ever do go to italy.. i prolly wont be racing.. be there iwth my girl. on vacation.. hahahah

nigrugt

12-14-2006, 05:54 PM

When is the new v-spec coming out???

purple-monkey

12-14-2006, 06:15 PM

a-main hobbies is taking preorders go and check-out the price on thier site

EZM

12-14-2006, 06:34 PM

balango bam bam, where do you wanna race and when? also what do you have to race? id be using my newly built sp2 so what would be giving to me once i beat you?we would race on a track for about 10 laps, first one to finish get the sp so let me know.

mugenX5

12-15-2006, 02:48 AM

its all the same, he lives in a cold place so running slightly hotter is goood

No, that means there's even less fuel going through the engine which also means less lubrication = short life.

If you run in cold weather, wrap something around the head to restrict the airflow. By doing this the engine temps will rise and in order to run at the correct temperature, you'll have to richen it up a bit. You'll get less run time per tank, but you'll have plenty of fuel/lube going through the engine which is always a good thing.

Actually I'm posting here with a question:

Has anyone owned an XB8, and is the 777 comparable in quality to the Xray? There's no doubt that Xray makes some good stuff, but people say the same thing about Kyosho. One thing I liked about the Xray, was that the tolerances on everything was tight, very minimal slop anywhere ( especially in the arms), is the Kyosho like this?

Thanks.

evaderstman

12-15-2006, 07:01 AM

Kyosho is close to x-ray, but the x-ray has much better quality compared to every onther car on the market. The problem is getting parts for the xb8.

dgrobe2112

12-15-2006, 09:09 AM

I am not gonna down any other mfg's products.. i have tried a Xray, didnt own one, simply cuz i purchased the 777. A buddy of mine went over seas to iraq, and let me keep his stuff till he got back, i put my electronics in it.. just to try it. i didnt break any parts, or anything like that, however, i noticed it was difficult to keep the setup right.. the car was either on or off.. worked good.. or didnt work at all.. whereas my 777, when i got it workin good, i could run it at any track..

Each car has its ups and downs.. you will be happy with either one.. but personally, i like my kyosho better..

EZM

12-15-2006, 11:04 AM

EZM

12-15-2006, 11:05 AM

Also, if running in cold weather is goo to lean abit that way you get to runner hotter!

mugenX5

12-15-2006, 02:57 PM

the xrayb8 is a loser buggy, :roll2: hop-ups do look nice i'll admit like, :D servo tray,upper deck plate, showtowers and so forth although the chassis is crap, but its no competitor, it is not a winner now and will probably never will unless they completely redesign everything to clone the kyosho! ;) Theres a reason why xray has never been champion. Its like the x1 cr, just an overdressed rc buggy who cant beat the sp2 and i/ve owned both. :( if you just want to bash go ahead and get it, but dont show up to the track looking like you want to race because they will :p at you.

EZM, go sit in front of TV, Dorah the Explorer is on right now.............

And running hotter is good for the engine?

I asked a serious question and wanted a serious answer from people that have tried BOTH the XB8 and 777.

How long has the Kyosho buggy been out versus how long the Xray buggy has been out? It doesn't matter what you drive, it's the driver. And in nitro racing, not only does driver skill a key point in winning, but also a boat load of good luck. How many top drivers run out of fuel or blow a plug on the last lap and lose the race?

As for hop-up parts, that's not my concern. I don't care about carbon fiber or billet aluminum doo-dads, I care about 1 thing, and that is quality. Which is the only reason why I bought the original Xb8 in the first place.

Mika

12-15-2006, 03:22 PM

mugenX5, Xray's quality is tuff to beat, but Kyosho's is also very close
But quality in Kyosho rarely (never) will fail you to win a race or getting on the track. There could be small things sometimes but racer's know how to deal with those
which one is better: My CEN haha ;-)
(yes I've owned 7.5, SP1, SP2, XB8R, Matrix FT)

balang_479

12-15-2006, 03:44 PM

Yeah, Kyosho seem to work on everything, i can go to one completely different track to another and barely change the setup..
alot of poeple have the XB8 /R and it looks good, and works good too.
But the kyosho is a bit sloppy here and there, iv hade to ad alot of bits and bobs here and there to keep it all tight. Like shims in the suspension pins to stop the arms slopping, on every inner pin, and somethings bind, like the ackerman plate to the diff case if you use the 1st hole in the plate. various things, while XB8 seemt o be stock and nothing on them, or added. Plain.

The xb8 is also a good performer, well at least in the hands of Yannick Aigon, but the Kyosho is also a bit easier, for beginners and for the top notch experts. Its flexible.

mugenX5

12-15-2006, 08:11 PM

EZM

12-15-2006, 09:36 PM

[QUOTE=mugenX5]EZM, go sit in front of TV, Dorah the Explorer is on right now.............

And running hotter is good for the engine?

Hey budy, thanks for heads up on dora, i didnt know you also watched it, :o , but as your :teacher: a am compeled to tell you that the xb8 is crap, sorry if this hurts your feelings,but you oviously dont have the experience of a racer or somebody who's owed the sp2 and xb8 like me son ;) Now go ahead and get the sp2, you'll be happy and wont have to worry about having a begginners buggy ;)

evaderstman

12-15-2006, 10:10 PM

The xb8 is actually a really nice buggy, you probably shouldn't talk about cars you don't have expierence with. I have driven a xb8, and really liked it, but it definatly doesn't have the same style as the kyosho. Honestly though if you want a buggy get a losi. They just out run everything else on the track. I hope to switch over soon even though my buggy only has 4 races on it.

EZM

12-16-2006, 12:30 AM

i have owned the losi and xb8 if you read any of my posts, the xb8 is crap sorry buddy

mugenX5

12-16-2006, 02:52 AM

i have owned the losi and xb8 if you read any of my posts, the xb8 is crap sorry buddy

I've read a couple of your posts, and I have one thing to say, your a complete friggin moron. I think others will agree with me on this one too.

The 777 is SO great, yet when you built yours, you added all kinds of RE parts to it. WHy? Do you feel better about yourself because you have the most expensive buggy in the D main? If you are a seasoned racer like you say, then you'd know that no matter what you drive, no matter how much money you have in your car, it wont win races. And the fact that it took you 3 months to, as you say "perfect my car" , just proves my theory of you.

I'll say it again in case you were too busy stuffing Fritos down your gullet to read what I wrote, the Kyosho has been out a lot longer than the xb8, so of course it's going to have numerous titles under it's belt. AND, like the other members say, there is no comparing the quality of an Xray to any other car, they can't compete with it.

My question was," is the quality the same as the Xray?" That's all I wanted to know. I didn't ask for the winningest buggy of all times. I didn't ask which car had the most aluminum doo-dads on it, because I DON"T care what the car LOOKS like, I care about whether or not it's a sloppy mess when your done building it.

Would you care to disclose your location? I'd love to see you race sometime:rolleyes:

FYI-I"ve owned a custom hybrid maxx,mbx4rr, mbx4xr, 2 x mbx5, original xb8, t4, 2 x b4, 2x pro4, lst2, tmaxx, revo, mf2, rev3, 2 x g+ xxxs, 2 x g+ xxx4, and my current car is an XB8 TQ.

balang_479

12-16-2006, 04:09 AM

I've read a couple of your posts, and I have one thing to say, your a complete friggin moron. I think others will agree with me on this one too.

The 777 is SO great, yet when you built yours, you added all kinds of RE parts to it. WHy? Do you feel better about yourself because you have the most expensive buggy in the D main? If you are a seasoned racer like you say, then you'd know that no matter what you drive, no matter how much money you have in your car, it wont win races. And the fact that it took you 3 months to, as you say "perfect my car" , just proves my theory of you.

I'll say it again in case you were too busy stuffing Fritos down your gullet to read what I wrote, the Kyosho has been out a lot longer than the xb8, so of course it's going to have numerous titles under it's belt. AND, like the other members say, there is no comparing the quality of an Xray to any other car, they can't compete with it.

My question was," is the quality the same as the Xray?" That's all I wanted to know. I didn't ask for the winningest buggy of all times. I didn't ask which car had the most aluminum doo-dads on it, because I DON"T care what the car LOOKS like, I care about whether or not it's a sloppy mess when your done building it.

Would you care to disclose your location? I'd love to see you race sometime:rolleyes:

FYI-I"ve owned a custom hybrid maxx,mbx4rr, mbx4xr, 2 x mbx5, original xb8, t4, 2 x b4, 2x pro4, lst2, tmaxx, revo, mf2, rev3, 2 x g+ xxxs, 2 x g+ xxx4, and my current car is an XB8 TQ.

i back him up on that,
EZM, youve put useless stuff on your car... adds weight.
All you seen to care about are the looks (the faded blue on the shock towers.. ohhhh noooo.)

The Kyosho in stock form is the best, they wouldnt charged 600 bucks for a car that isnt the best, when they could have just added the parts that you did, but they dont make it better, nor make it look better... as you seen so concerned..

The xray is amazing and in the right hands, obviuosly not yours as you couldnt drive it, its had some amazing results such as the EU champs... and the quality is unbelievable, its Luxury.

Mika

12-16-2006, 06:02 AM

Thanks for the honest replies people. I'm a stickler when it comes to the "tightness" of a car and there's nothing worse ( at least in rc) than dumping $500+ on a kit and have it feel like a Nikko rtr after it's built.
I may try out the 777, and I guess if it doesn't satisfy me needs for a precision car, I'll dump it and try something else.
Mika- how's the Matrix Pro?

777 takes beating very well and won't get sloppy too fast. For sure some parts need to be changed once in a while but so does Xray. I've seen Xray guys buying Kyosho parts for their XB's because Kyosho parts are so good, and in some cases even better than Xray's own. Definetely not because of price because K parts are more expensive..!

Re Matrix (don't want to mess this thread too much) like certain design features like the rear of the car to quick change toe- and antisquat plates e-clips free, big shocks etc. Actually it is pretty close to Kyosho, I'm using K diffs and engine parts like mounts, clutches etc. I bought the car to test it (being the first here) and so far I've been relatively happy with it. Haven' t won anything but it is capable in right hands (no surprise, eh). It seems fairly robust and it can take the beating easily, too. Not too fancy what comes to tuning, simplistic, which I like.

mugenX5

12-16-2006, 09:18 AM

EZM

12-16-2006, 11:21 AM

I've read a couple of your posts, and I have one thing to say, your a complete friggin moron. I think others will agree with me on this one too.

The 777 is SO great, yet when you built yours, you added all kinds of RE parts to it. WHy? Do you feel better about yourself because you have the most expensive buggy in the D main? If you are a seasoned racer like you say, then you'd know that no matter what you drive, no matter how much money you have in your car, it wont win races. And the fact that it took you 3 months to, as you say "perfect my car" , just proves my theory of you.

I'll say it again in case you were too busy stuffing Fritos down your gullet to read what I wrote, the Kyosho has been out a lot longer than the xb8, so of course it's going to have numerous titles under it's belt. AND, like the other members say, there is no comparing the quality of an Xray to any other car, they can't compete with it.

My question was," is the quality the same as the Xray?" That's all I wanted to know. I didn't ask for the winningest buggy of all times. I didn't ask which car had the most aluminum doo-dads on it, because I DON"T care what the car LOOKS like, I care about whether or not it's a sloppy mess when your done building it.

Would you care to disclose your location? I'd love to see you race sometime:rolleyes:

FYI-I"ve owned a custom hybrid maxx,mbx4rr, mbx4xr, 2 x mbx5, original xb8, t4, 2 x b4, 2x pro4, lst2, tmaxx, revo, mf2, rev3, 2 x g+ xxxs, 2 x g+ xxx4, and my current car is an XB8 TQ.

:huh: Are you trying to diss me, Am a racer and yes, the sp2 i built took me over 3 months because i waited for the right parts to be delivered and i have a job as well, i dont live with mommy and daddy like you son ;) , but anyway, the xb8 is crap and like i said countless times i've owened it, and im not even gona list the amount of cars i have as they would make your begginer line of cars look pathetic, but maybe once you get real rc cars then you might finally agree that the sp2 is the way to go! :teacher:

Mika

12-16-2006, 11:40 AM

Mika- simplistic is what I like too, alongside precision. That's what I like about 1/8 so much, easy to work on and durable as heck. I believe Andrew Smolnik ( CEN ) used to run for Kyosho, so maybe that's where the design similarities come from. Keep me up to date via PM"s if possible.
Again, thanks for the input guys.

Yeah. Undoubtly 777 is an excellent race car and THE car to choose when competing on top level. However, for an average/occasional/recreational racer like me, who likes to take the car out every once in a while without too much tinkering, CEN is also a good option. 777 is such a fine car that it needs more TLC whereas, I would say, CEN needs less maintenance in overall (BUT: diffs require more running in and the wing stay is not very durable if land harsh all the time like a novice might do). This is of course my personal opinion. And by no means K is bad for a novice racer, also a novice/intermediate racer will benefit the overall performance of 777 - just don't expect to be a pro driver once getting 777. I like the interchability of some components as well. By choosing 777 you can't possibly go wrong, the WC version has many small but important features that is needed to win the best of the best.

balang_479

12-16-2006, 01:17 PM

Yeah. Undoubtly 777 is an excellent race car and THE car to choose when competing on top level. However, for an average/occasional/recreational racer like me, who likes to take the car out every once in a while without too much tinkering, CEN is also a good option. 777 is such a fine car that it needs more TLC whereas, I would say, CEN needs less maintenance in overall (BUT: diffs require more running in and the wing stay is not very durable if land harsh all the time like a novice might do). This is of course my personal opinion. And by no means K is bad for a novice racer, also a novice/intermediate racer will benefit the overall performance of 777 - just don't expect to be a pro driver once getting 777. I like the interchability of some components as well. By choosing 777 you can't possibly go wrong, the WC version has many small but important features that is needed to win the best of the best.

The CEN sounds nice, although i have never been attracted to its deisgn, you may argue thats its too similar to other buggies like you said, and yeah the 777 does need some TLC, and i often have to tear it down to make sure everything is in check, although you may have to do this with all cars.

i love radical designs, things need to change thats why i find the 777 and mbx5 and other buggies like the xb8 and stuff to similar and i would chose purely the one with more support such asparts availability. and n. of people that have it at the track to learn stuff from, many people have a 777 soi chose that and have learnt alot about it...

but Losi 8ight and now the TM M1B are the buggies to go for i think... their brand new and full of never seen ideas and designs, and you know that they will have learnt something from all the previious buggies to make them a bit better... like 8ight is incredibly stable and has amazing balance, its easier to work on that all other buggies.. then M1, everything is easily adjustable, from the damping in the diffs (without changing oil) to the dissassembly of various parts of the car.. it makes your life easier, as well as being a better performer.... the 777 with its e-clips and 8 screws to take the radio gear out is hard... and also the fact that you have to pull everything out to get to the center diff, while on new buggies is a simple 4 screws and thats it...many things which you do not notice which make these brand new buggies, alot better than the old ones.

Mika

12-16-2006, 01:23 PM

Right, tho I see less need for wrenching my Matrix than I did with my 777. Moving to Losi you have to change all your gear, whereas CEN was an easy pick 'cause so much is interchangeable with K cars. And I did the change for fun, not because I HAVE to win. Being a bit different you know from the rest of the pack. Now Losi would be an excellent choice propably, but Magic does not attract me personally at all. And have my Kz ST US, too.

nigrugt

12-17-2006, 05:19 AM

Anyone tried the GRP tires?? Beacause proline tires seem to wear alot from the side wall and I am getting boared of proline!! Anyone tried GRP??

balang_479

12-17-2006, 08:31 AM

i often use GRP, as their half the price from Proline... you can tell their not as good.
The prolines are firm and have a presiced track, everything is direct and responsive, while the GRPs get a bit slushy, but still worthy of winning races for sure, just need to alter your driving style slightly, be a but more aggressive with the GRPs and prepare for a tiny bit of oversteer.

nigrugt

12-17-2006, 06:30 PM

And what shall I use for a partly hard packed and half sandy track? I use knuckles at the moment. And What about the life time? Do grp long laster??

balang_479

12-18-2006, 12:09 PM

yeah they do last longer.. harder compound depending what PLs your un.

dgrobe2112

12-18-2006, 02:08 PM

Offroad racing action (http://lstvideos.com/12162006/TORC_1_8_qual_512k.wmv)

My buggy is the 2nd one to start..

balang_479

12-18-2006, 03:58 PM

awesome video...
that track is so nice, we have nothing like that over here, its because we dont have the elevations that you do, its all flat here with some jumps.... while those hills and bumps must be so much fun to drive round, also that dirt looks amazing, it musty be treated... over here its either mud or cracked up solid rock.... no bautiful firm dirt.. ill post some picture so i can explain.

balang_479

12-18-2006, 04:10 PM

The ground is like this: rock hard
http://www.teamlucifero.it/images/Foto%204°%20Gara%20campionato%202006/Svolgimento/P1040597.JPG

The jumps:
http://www.teamlucifero.it/images/Foto%204°%20Gara%20campionato%202006/Svolgimento/P1040569.JPG

mines the one flying

the dust:
http://www.teamlucifero.it/images/Foto%204°%20Gara%20campionato%202006/Svolgimento/P1040858.JPG

THEN SOME REAL BAD TRACKS ARE LIKE THIS:
my car
http://www.teamlucifero.it/images/Foto%202%20gara%20Speciale%202006/26110831.jpg
http://www.teamlucifero.it/images/Foto%202%20gara%20Speciale%202006/26144747.jpg
again my car
http://www.teamlucifero.it/images/Foto%203%20gara%20Speciale%202006/P1030069.jpg

THEN THE GOOD TRACK... ITS NICE.
http://www.clubmac.it/images/zoom/JLVHOS/DSC00391.jpg

http://www.clubmac.it/images/zoom/JLVHOS/DSC00383.jpg
there is also a very big triple. not the one in the photo those are just the whoops.

dgrobe2112

12-18-2006, 05:27 PM

those big jumps, are full of dirt.. not land elevations.. they did that with alot of dirt.. and yes.. that track did something to their dirt.. to make it stick like that.. when there is a big race.. you should see the blue groove that comes out of it.. literally, sun reflects into your eyes..

balang_479

12-19-2006, 04:37 PM

yeah. no one uses additives to the dirt here, but it does look nice there... i think they should here as well, the ground just dries and breaks up.

balang_479

12-23-2006, 10:38 AM

Sorry about the dirty car, i just cleaned up quickly after having used it...

Any way this is what i just did to my fuel tank you help me remove it without any hassle of wrenching away..

I often have to remove the fuel tank to make sure that the mesh between the clutchbell and the spur gear are perfect as ive had some issues before...so make it easier to remove and see the gear ive come up with this body clip design:

1. started off by shaping a piece of plasitc to look like a body post mount and then inserting a threaded pin into it...
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/balang_479/1.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/balang_479/3.jpg

2. Then making the whole in it for the clip..
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/balang_479/2.jpg

3. as the post was a bit too wide i had to widen the hole in the fuel tank, i also got an o-ring to place under the fuel tank mounts to absorb some vibration.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/balang_479/4.jpg

then mounted it all up

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/balang_479/5.jpg

there it is, now it easy as hell to remove the fuel tank and it sits nicely as well.

dgrobe2112

12-24-2006, 05:15 PM

just FYI.. there are 4 screws holding the motor plates to the chassis.. i see them in the pics.. when you remove your motor, after you have meshed the engine, you can remove those 4 screws holding the plates in.. rather than the 4 that hold the motor to the plates.. that way you wont have to remesh the engine evertime you take it out..

balang_479

12-24-2006, 05:41 PM

perfectly true, but i prefer to make sure that the engine is meshed correctly even if i have done so before (plus its really hard to take the ones into the plate out, while the ones into the engine mounts are easier).

This also i have found that the engine always moves a little no matter how much you tighten it or thread lock, the vibration is immense...

this is also just for comodity, when i have to clean out the chassis 2 body clips are easier than screws... these little adjustments keep the dating car up to spec with the new easy to work on models. Thats why i have also eliminated e-clips and other thinga.

maaloomi

12-25-2006, 07:03 AM

hello,
I am new here

i need a little advice.
I want to buy a buggy, and i have two options at the same price. I need to know which is better, they are both used (money limit..)
The first is a MP777 sp2, has run about 6-7 gallons, gears and everything are in good cond and no upgrades.
The second is a mp7.5 kanai , the guy says it a limited edition, it is in better condition then the sp2, but not much better (chassis a bit cleaner) and has a few small upgrades.
Is there a big diffrence between the two models?
I'm buying the kit only, no engine and radio.
I hope im posting this in the right place..
Thanks alot in advance

balang_479

12-25-2006, 02:02 PM

I think youll always be better off getting the 777.... its the newer version so the suspension has been improved, also being newer it will wont have been around for longer time, so you wont feel outdated the instance you get it. The 7.5 is getting old although still good, The MP777 is better, and for the same price you defenately better off getting that.

maaloomi

12-26-2006, 12:10 PM

Thanks balang_479,
Well i guess that after all i will be going with a fairly upgraded sp1, i have a great deal on one...
I'll probably be back soon with questions,
Happy Holidays

piggybackrevo

12-26-2006, 07:42 PM

hey guys wondering what part numbered front shock towers will work on the msr777t conversion for my mp777 buggy. i snapped the front shock tower in half and looking to get another one and maybe a spare. let me know if u got some part numbers thanks alot

matt

dgrobe2112

12-26-2006, 10:42 PM

if you are running the stock MSR777 truggy.. the stock shock tower will work great.. www.racers-edge.com has great products, since you have to buy a new tower anyway.. and they are lifetime warranty.. if you break it.. send it in.. get a new one..

piggybackrevo

12-27-2006, 02:21 AM

anyone got any advice on the mugen msr777t truggy conversion from the kyosho mp777. or things they done like different a arms bolting up??? or any tips on stuff that works on the truggy and fits.. i was thinking of longer a arms but dont know if any mount up let me know thanks alot

matt

AreCee

12-27-2006, 11:52 AM

You can use the ST-R arms but you'll also need new uppers and new universals for the front and rear too. About $100+ in parts.

What isn't the same are the diff ring and pinion gears.

dgrobe2112

12-28-2006, 01:23 AM

exactly.. you will also need new steering rods, and such as that as well.. the ring and pinion gears are different.. aas well as the str comes with a 50t spur gear..

balang_479

12-28-2006, 05:44 AM

The chassis from the STR wont match up with the 777 unless you get the STR radio plate and CVDS, but you may need to change chassis, although the STRs weight distribution is alot better.

freddan

12-28-2006, 09:30 AM

HBSC8101-1
Hot Bodies Hard Steel Differential Gear Set (Lightning Pro Series)

Does the HBSC8101-1, Hot Bodies Hard Steel Differential Gear Set fit the Kyosho MP777?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLGV5&P=7

If so it is a very nice way to get the hard steel differential gears.

Matthijs

01-11-2007, 02:51 PM

should fit, but why do you need these? the originals last a whole racing season, dont they?

Matthijs

01-11-2007, 02:55 PM

by the way, since i'm sort of a newbie around here, this is my ride for the dutch brothercup series in The Netherlands:

http://www.djmat.dds.nl/SP2%20WCE/sp2%20072small.jpg
http://www.djmat.dds.nl/SP2%20WCE/sp2%20066small.jpg

the MP777 WCE, Ninja motor/pipe, Ace 1015 servo's, RMV speed 2.5 clutch

AreCee

01-11-2007, 03:28 PM

Nice!

Let us know how those servos hold up, they have great specs at a great price.

Matthijs

01-11-2007, 03:40 PM

thanks, in The Netherlands these servo's are often used. You know what they say about the Dutch... always wanting quality at low costs.... I used them for a while now, no complaints, very smooth, fast and powerful.

dgrobe2112

01-11-2007, 04:31 PM

Matt.. does the wing have that 3rd brace in the wingmount stock. or did you do that on your own?

Matthijs

01-12-2007, 02:15 AM

Did it myself, just tried it with an old wingmount. The stock mount has serious flex. Not that it should be a problem, but after some crashes the stock mounts stays crooked... In my kit the new mounts and arms are included, the hard ones. But in the Netherlands it's wintertime now, and i don't want to break these parts in the low tempertures. So i put the 'old' ones on.

http://www.djmat.dds.nl/SP2%20WCE/sp2%20020small.jpg

and here some more building pictures:

http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=50472

Matthijs

01-12-2007, 08:57 AM

but maybe you can buy this new part for the truggy, and mount it on your buggy if you want more stiffness, and positions for the spoiler..
http://www.kyosho.de/shop_image/event/2175b6133389bb3847f5e0c187a46cbd.jpg

http://www.kyosho.de/shop_image/event/fb004b8062e3dad8ace162c4e43d317b.jpg

balang_479

01-12-2007, 06:15 PM

great stuff yeah, it looks so much better with all those mounting position, but looks like it sits a bit high compared to the buggy one?

thedarkness

01-12-2007, 07:41 PM

what the part # on that truggy wingmount, ive got mine with double supports like that but I feel the str could really use the wing up higher in the air.

Matthijs

01-13-2007, 05:41 AM

what the part # on that truggy wingmount, ive got mine with double supports like that but I feel the str could really use the wing up higher in the air.

not available yet i think, they tested it at the Kyosho Masters in Japan, few months ago.

dgrobe2112

01-14-2007, 12:50 PM

not available yet..

balang_479

01-15-2007, 06:26 AM

dgrobe could you show us some pics of the WC? we know what comes with it but id like to see it asthetically.... thanks...

dgrobe2112

01-15-2007, 09:38 AM

what you mean asthetically?? like when its built?? or what?

AreCee

01-15-2007, 10:55 AM

Yeah, I think he wants to see a photo of the WC built. Except that it looks exactly like a SP2 with a different prefilter and some Ti screws.

balang_479

01-15-2007, 11:02 AM

oh, is it that similar... it has those semi-metallic break disks right? how are they, i ve heard they brake too much?

dgrobe2112

01-15-2007, 11:12 AM

the semi metalic pads are great.. i like them.. they are stock on the STR truggy.. i had them on my SP2 as well.. but the car is basically the same.. except for the air filter.. comes with some differences.. like harder arms and such.. but other than that.. they are almost the same.. and the rear shock tower is different.. extra hole in the rear inside camber link..

AreCee

01-15-2007, 11:18 AM

Those brake pads should say Brembo. I love how controlled the braking action is and with no perceptable fade.

Matthijs

01-15-2007, 11:18 AM

balang, just look at my building-story: http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=50472
in Dutch, but you can understand pictures, don't you?

WC kit has some differences, rear shocktower, hard arms/wingtower, 48 t spur, and 14 t clutch, filter, braces, titanium screws, extra piece of rubber in shocktopcaps. Haven't you read the product discription at the kyosho site??

Breakes are great, what do you mean by breaking to hard? come on....be serious.... just a matter of setting up your car, brakes en servo... :teacher:

rear shock tower has a minor problem, cant use hole no. 7...@dgrobe, you've tried it?

dgrobe2112

01-15-2007, 12:13 PM

no i havent tried it.. whats the prob.. cant get the attachment in that area or what?

Matthijs

01-15-2007, 12:20 PM

the ball end doesn't fit on the flange ball on the shocktower. The plastic diff housing is in the way.... position no. 8 does fit, bit funny.......

http://www.djmat.dds.nl/SP2%20WCE/sp2%20082small.jpg
http://www.djmat.dds.nl/SP2%20WCE/sp2%20081small.jpg

dgrobe2112

01-15-2007, 02:49 PM

hmm.. i will check that out.. also.. have you asked the question on sgrid yet??

Matthijs

01-15-2007, 02:56 PM

no, can't seem to register there.... filled in the form, never got an confirmation. Filled in another form, still no answer and can't login.

dgrobe2112

01-16-2007, 09:25 AM

hmm.. well i posted it on there to see what they say..

only response is from Ryan Lutz.. he said he just dremeled the diff housing..

Matthijs

01-16-2007, 11:56 AM

balang_479

01-16-2007, 01:47 PM

amazing build... The shock caps have those little spunges in them, never seen them...

dgrobe2112

01-16-2007, 02:33 PM

@sgrid you must pay before you can register right? :huh:

dremel it....now thats a solution for a designers mistake :D i'll just leave it alone, won't be using no.7 hole to much...haven't got the skill's to notice the difference between no. 6, 7, and 8 anyway...

this weekend first race with the new kit. There are a lot more new kyosho's with a Ninja on it, we'll see how it goes, or flies, or crashes..... :rolleyes:

no.. you dont gotta pay for sgrid.. go to conferences.. not forums.. and register there.. i been on there for a long time..

yes.. i agree.. something should have been noticed on that.. when building the car.. or redoing the shock tower.. im sure it will be addressed..

balang.. those are the new shocks for the WC.. i beleive they are available now.. not for certain just yet.. i think its a form of the pavidis shock setup..

balang_479

01-16-2007, 03:07 PM

How do they help? do the give the shock more rebound?

AreCee

01-16-2007, 03:22 PM

How do they help? do the give the shock more rebound?
They are volume compensators that allow the shaft to displace shock oil without packing. (The air in the sponge compresses a lot easier than oil.)

BTW: It's the spring that gives the rebound. If your shocks bounce back without a spring then you have too much oil in it and it won't compress.

balang_479

01-16-2007, 05:12 PM

know i mean the rebound given without the springs (like when you just mount the shock and you push it in without the spring) sorry i wasnt thinking.

So i suppose it give lighter damping at the first 3mm or so of compression, how does this help from not having the spunge?

Matthijs

01-16-2007, 05:30 PM

I think they put the rubber in there just to prefent the bladder from moving to much into the topcap and damaging itself. Another driver from around here added in his previous MP777 an extra bladder with a hole in it, behind the standard position of the normal bladder, just to be sure it stays alright. Since then he hasn't had any problems and never had to replace them.

http://www.djmat.dds.nl/SP2%20WCE/sp2%20057small.jpg

balang_479

01-17-2007, 02:53 PM

balang_479

01-21-2007, 12:57 PM

I just came back from a race, and i WON it... :D, im just sharing my exitment (SP), With the SP2 ofcourse, I have slightly the wrong setup and the track was brutal... half a foot pot holes everywhere and a full grass field track. I had no problems with the car and the amazing Sirio didnt stall once... Ill post some pictures as soon as i get themm......

dgrobe2112

01-22-2007, 12:42 PM

congrats.. Kyosho, Sirio.. great combo..

maSkedrideR

01-23-2007, 10:03 AM

hi Guys.... i'm New in this forum and I just get myself a SP2/Sirio .
Need to get some advise how to maintain all the Bearing after track day.
need i use anything chemical to clean it or just leave it as it is and change to a new one when its spoilt ?
thank you for all the advised given.

AreCee

01-23-2007, 10:28 AM

Welcome to Kyosho.

The type of bearings you have will determine it's maintenance. I usually leave rubber or teflon sealed bearings alone. Metal shielded bearings get a blast of cleaner, blow dried and oiled. Clutch bearings get thrown out and replaced.

dgrobe2112

01-23-2007, 11:06 AM

i dont replace my clutch bearings after every day at the track.. i do however, take the motor out after each race day, clean the car. (simple green and air compressor) use cleaner blaster around all the bearing locations.. to get the dirt out.. the clutch bearings, get sprayed down with motor cleaner spray.. and will make it another race day (for club racing) but big events, i start with new clutch bearings for the mains.

Welcome to the Kyosho world, you picked the best car, and the engine.. well.. Sirio engines have come along way, and those are what i run now.

What motor do you have?

balang_479

01-23-2007, 12:23 PM

I do a little less maintanance, i obviously pass over with WD-40 over all bearings and everything that could get dirty or rust, clutchbearings i do not worry, everytime i remove the engine, generally before everyrace, i give 'em a wipe but i keep them dry.

I also have a Sirio and they really are great, but you must run them with 30% nitro fuel... i went to the factory and they said this because the properties and additives that are present in the fuel work with those engines and 30% will give you the most efficient power and smooth powerband out of the engine. They also specialize and say to run Runner Time fuel which is not produced by them, but i would not worry about this... Its a very reliable engine, never stalls even if the cold and have just started it, it will stay, and even if you hold you tap the exhaust outlet for 3 seconds and let go it will re-light and keep going...!!

have fun!

dgrobe2112

01-23-2007, 12:48 PM

i have run 30% since i started getting better engines.. i started running with a RG long ago.. but once i went to P5's and higher end engines.. i started running 30%. also.. speaking of tune and such.. i read that while tuning the engine, it is safer to have a motor with a leaner bottom and fatter top, than to have a motor with a fat bottom and lean top.. the leaner bottom with fatter top, is not hard ont he engine as the latter..

balang_479

01-23-2007, 03:26 PM

I read that too, that a lean bottom is good...

dgrobe2112

01-23-2007, 05:04 PM

my girlfriend said a lean bottom, fat top is better than a fat bottom lean top also.. hahah

AreCee

01-23-2007, 05:32 PM

I too only replace the clutch bearings before the mains. I do not save them because I get them for $1 each.

dgrobe2112

01-23-2007, 05:53 PM

www.avidrc.com buck a bearing.. love it.. :)

n30filou

01-23-2007, 07:32 PM

Which ones are you using from avid? Metal, rubber, "revolutions", or even a combination?
I'm using "revolutions" for the knuckles, metal for the steering posts and clutch. Has anyone tried ceramic bearings?

EZM

01-23-2007, 11:12 PM

ceramic are best for clutch and engine because they really stand heat and spin so fast,

dgrobe2112

01-23-2007, 11:15 PM

the revolutions are the best i have used.. they last a long time.. i dont use ceramics, except for races with huge mains.. like at nats.. or rcpro a mains..

balang_479

01-24-2007, 09:26 AM

dang, i pay like 3 euros for a bearing... and those are the metal shielded one, for rubber i pay 6 euros each.

maSkedrideR

01-24-2007, 10:15 AM

thanks for all the advised given... currently i'm using the bearing that came with the Kit. And as for the motor i'm using is the Sirio Evo2.
Generally, will be a long way to know more about this SP2 . But without much pactised, I'm going to a club race this weekend to drive my this devil.... :o

AreCee

01-24-2007, 04:19 PM

Dan, thanks for reminding me to work on the clutch. It was shot needing new bearings, shoes and springs. I've been using the Mugen black carbon shoes with 1.0 springs which gives a good grab but doesn't come on too strong.

balang_479

01-25-2007, 12:33 PM

good luck on the Race... the Kyosho/Sirio is the best way to go...:D

maSkedrideR

01-26-2007, 10:21 AM

good luck on the Race... the Kyosho/Sirio is the best way to go...:D

thanks for the blessing... :wave:

btw, do you guys use anything to cover up the whole battery/RX box ??
thinking of using baloon to do the job or the inner tube of the bike.
Is it nessary to cover it or just leave it as its it ? :confused:
I realised after each track run, found the dust are all inside the Box.

thank you

AreCee

01-26-2007, 10:45 AM

The dust enters in the place where the servo leads enter. Seal that with tape or caulk and you have eliminated 95% of the dust entry. A thin bead of grease around the lids will keep dust from entering too.

balang_479

01-26-2007, 02:10 PM

i just leave it as it, never had any problems although i do have some like gue on the box "trap doors" seal, its like blue tak around the edge of the lid...
And as for the servos i wrapped them in electical tape so nothing could enter.

maSkedrideR

01-28-2007, 05:16 AM

after each every track day, our car will be full of mud sometimes.
How you guys make it clean and what methor you guys use ?
did you leave the mud to dry then wash it or wash it stright away ?

thanks

balang_479

01-28-2007, 10:24 AM

maSkedrideR

01-29-2007, 08:37 AM

Its best to wash it off straight away as the dry mud is so hard to get off, especially when you get a layer of hard dirt on the bottom of the chassis..

Ive found that the best way to clean a car is take off the electronics all in one, the engine and the fuel tank so that your left with suspension and drive train, and it doesn take that long to take it all off, its only 16 screws for me (then you clean those by wiping them with a cloth or something).

I then use a pressure hose to spray everything off and a brush if anything needs loosening up, maake sure everything is squeaky clean then i pass over with a compressor to dry everything up.. and finally spray WD-40 nearly everywhere (i go throught some bottles) and mount it all up...

For the engine i use a tooth brush and WD-40 to clean it, for the tank i wipe everything off it, i dont wet it just because i dont want to have to dry all the water out of it... and as for the electronics is spray a bit of WD-40 on a cloth and wipe everything dont and dry with a hair dryer...

This is for a complete wash after a race, hope it helps.

thanks for sharing... :wave:
I didnt make to the final on my first buggy club race but i really enjoy the fun. Feel great when my buggy flying thru those hump and landed safely but of course sometimes did overturn it like a tortise.. :o
Now i going to pactise more on the jump and hopefully can make thru final on my next club race...And of course, now must know how to maintain the buggy well and be race ready everytime !! :p
Last but not least, one question... does you guys clean your buggy after each Heat goes and make as clean as possible ?? Or just leave it as its it till end of the race ??

thank you

dgrobe2112

01-29-2007, 09:18 AM

depends on what your track is like.. i dont clean it after each race.. especially at a club race.. i will however.. take it to the air hose.. and hose off the dust.. but thats bout it.. at a big race.. depending on how much time i have.. i may go through and clean it more thorough..

balang_479

01-29-2007, 01:07 PM

Yeah, i clean superficially, get all the heavy mud off and free the shafts of anything that may slow them down, i clena and work un the car until its my turn to race again...

I like to keep myself busy...:D

freddan

01-29-2007, 03:59 PM

This seems to look like a copy of the mp777. Anyone knows any details of the RACER VH-X8? Made some search on google but no good information. Have not seen any under the body pictures.

Is it 100 % compatible with genuine kyosho parts? Does Kyosho approve/support production of this car (made in the same factory??)

here is a picture:
http://195.149.144.149/images/23/2313585589.jpg

freddan

01-29-2007, 04:08 PM

more pictures on the copy of the kyosho mp777:

http://toptoys.godele.com/54611.5.501227/
http://itm.com.cn/member/216568_vh-x81.jpg

balang_479

01-29-2007, 04:09 PM

If you look on ebay there are many of these buggies on for sale and there are also plenty of body off pics, and its exactly the same, im not about quality but for that price it can no way be as good as Kyosho (as you would expect) but they are exactly the same.

The product is like the standard MP777...

anyone noticed how the wing is on backwards and the holes are also on the upper wing instead of the lower one????

freddan

01-29-2007, 04:13 PM

http://en.advisto.com/auctions-classifieds-sale/models-27938.htm

EZM

01-30-2007, 12:19 AM

looks ugly

Matthijs

01-30-2007, 03:33 AM

looks ugly

it looks just like the old mp777, with a Kyosho gx engine on it. It's not that ugly.....if something isn't packed with options (r-edge ;) ) it doesn't mean its ugly EZM :rolleyes:

but.......is it a real kyosho copy? and is it a way of entering the bottom market of rc-racing, making some cashflow?

maSkedrideR

01-30-2007, 08:11 AM

my local track are pretty small in a way that there are many turns.. which means more to technical track with about 30m long straight . What do you guys suggest on the diff weight on Front , middle and Rear ?

thank you.

dgrobe2112

01-30-2007, 09:17 AM

pretty much standard is 5/7/2, i would go with 1k in the rear, loosen up the rear.. also.. go with a shorter wheelbase..

maSkedrideR

01-30-2007, 11:10 AM

thanks for the advised... will make a try .
Btw, any good LHS in US that sell cheap good bearing ? My friend now based at the state for a year and perhap can ask him to get it for me.

thanks

dgrobe2112

01-30-2007, 11:48 AM

WWW.AVIDRC.COM sells bearings, cheapest i found. Great service, great support.

maSkedrideR

02-01-2007, 11:33 AM

thanks for the link..

dgrobe2112

02-01-2007, 11:58 AM

Pressure Foams IFW331 for the shocks are now in stock.. these are the pieces that are on the new WC car..

maSkedrideR

02-09-2007, 11:07 AM

hi Guys...

I had seem some driver using 2 layer of Ail-filter. What are the differents between using single layer and double layer ?
currently i'm using OS pre-oil filter.
And during Leisure runs....shall i change the Air-filter , example running like about 3 heats of the race of 7 min ? Or just bashing like theres no tommorow ?
Right now our track are super dry/ sandy and consistant dusty.
SO thru your experience, sure i change every 3 heats of run of just change once i stop bashing....

Last but not least.... have anyone try 3/7/1 and shock oil 500 ?

thank you

dgrobe2112

02-09-2007, 12:59 PM

i think you should change your filter, especially in dusty dry conditions.. i have about 4 extra filters, and i change my filters before each heat, and the main. never can be too safe..

i run the proline low profile filter, which has a prefilter as well.. as the regular filter. no big difference, other than being able to chance the prefilter easier..

3/7/1 will give the car mad turn in, prolly more than needed.. only think i can say.. is try it, and see how it works for you.. i currently use 5/7/1