Inferno MP777

[dgrobe2112]

here is the write up on the new filter.. part number is IF345 $15.99

IFW345-1, is the replacement outer filter, comes with 2 extras.

http://www.shopkyosho.com/img/product_images/410/KYOIF345.jpg

Standard equipment in the new 777 WC Edition buggy, the HG air filter features a new, high-density foam element and pre-filter. The high-density foam captures the smallest particles to keep your engine in top condition, yet it allows plenty of airflow so the engine can produce maximum power. The angular cut of the foam pre-filter creates more surface area, which means the engine will breathe well even when other filters begin to compromise performance.

A molded rubber elbow, filter housing and durable metal inner cage are included. The end of the filter housing even features a mounting lug, so the assembled filter is better supported, which keeps it firmly attached to the engine where it belongs.

This new filter is designed for use with most popular nitro vehicles, including 1:8 buggies, truggies and monster trucks that use .21 and larger engines.

[AreCee]

I like the new filter but I'm still using those huge black OFNA prefilters (two for $5.00).

[indysupra]

Is there a big difference between the sp2 and the WC? I see the parts differences but do you really feel a difference? Thanks

Eric

[dgrobe2112]

nothin like a new car.. lol.. braking power of the car is insane..

[AreCee]

I agree that the biggest difference is in the brakes. (I have the new brakes on my ST-R and like he said, insane.)

[maSkedrideR]

relised my Sirio was to powerful to handle but i Like it... :cool:
may i know what setting should be in my radio ( M8 with Spektrum ) EXP-TH, EXP- ST and D-Rate so i can have better control ?
currently both my setting are 0 % . and D-rate are 75% .

thanks

[balang_479]

i run nothing on my radio, all normal linear.....

Ive found that the best filter to use is the Losi 8ight one, really good, gets away from the linkages and doesnt get them all oily...

[Matthijs]

hi, thirst race with the mp777 WC was big fun! good handling, sharp turns, etc, etc. I've came in 5th, with an RB engine that wasn't very fresh, and hard to tune...

http://www.djmat.dds.nl/SP2%20WCE/sp2%20092small.jpg
http://www.djmat.dds.nl/SP2%20WCE/sp2%20093small.jpg


Question, anyone can give me an explenation of why Kyosho put a narrow wheel hub in the back (part no. ifw326 bl) and a normal one in the front (ifw107b). I thought that a narrow wheel offset reduces traction, or am i wrong?

I've also put the offset ballends on the steering rod's, really makes a difference!
http://www.djmat.dds.nl/SP2%20WCE/sp2%20094small.jpg
http://www.djmat.dds.nl/SP2%20WCE/sp2%20096small.jpg
http://www.djmat.dds.nl/SP2%20WCE/sp2%20097small.jpg

And a small problem, a screw is missing from the ace 1015 servo:
http://www.djmat.dds.nl/SP2%20WCE/sp2%20099small.jpg
Never thought of using lock-tide in there!

[dgrobe2112]

I beleive the reason for the hubs is because of the new harder plastic arms, do not shrink as much as the original arms after molding. so they sent the thinner wheel hub with it. i cant remember exactly, but i will check into it.

[Matthijs]

that's a bit weird, the shrinking should occure on rear and front arms, right? So if this theory is right (i know you are looking into it, thanks) then i should put some thicker hub's on it right now, because i use the 'soft' arms from the sp2 (it's a bit cold out here, don't want to break my new arms...)

oh yeah, the difference is 1 millimeter (5mm vs. 4 mm)...
http://www.djmat.dds.nl/SP2%20WCE/sp2%20100small.jpg

[balang_479]

wow, it looks nice, i never know the offset ball end existed, i might get me one of those cause they do rub a little bit... I am sure the 1mm offset is not going to make a huge noticeable difference, but if you notice too much over steer just put in the wider ones in the back and see if it helps, but i wouldnt rely on it as a tuning option unless you modify like 2 to 3mm of offset.

[dgrobe2112]

From Mr. King, (Cody Kings Dad)

The thinner hex GOES IN BACK.

If you are at an IFMAR event, you need the thinner hex in the rear to meet
the spec. That is the only time you need the thinner hex. For a ROAR
event, the wider hex meets the spec. We run wide front and rear.

[runar80]

Has anyone tried quad brakediscs on their car? Anyone had a problem with the flywheel touching the disc?

R

[balang_479]

No never had any problems...


I raced today and boy does the Kyosho still go, The SP2 is still the best buggyu out there, beat all the Losis and Mugens, and they also won in intermediate class.

I was running 2 seconds faster per lap against everyone else but due to a faulty glow plug (which lasted 3 races, forgot to change it) i fell down to fifth... i was incredible has any one ever got like angry and full of adrenaline and drive like 5 times faster?? i was running faster than the Pro class because of this.

I also experimented with droop, the track was destryoed, half a foot pot holes everywhere and the car would jump everywhere, but i noticed that removing droop (normally more is better for rough tracks) when the car digged into the pot holes in corners it didnt traction roll as much, and as the suspension damping was thin it didnt bounce the car up as it push out....

I ran GRP Cross tires and the surface was worn away grass into thick damp dirt. The best choice of tire if you ever find yourself in this situation...

[maSkedrideR]

I raced today and boy does the Kyosho still go, The SP2 is still the best buggyu out there, beat all the Losis and Mugens, and they also won in intermediate class.

congrat and you make us proud ;) :winner:

I been practise my jumping for the past fews day and i can say its this Kit/engine is awsome and dun make me stress at all :p
And i'm ready for the next club race in march and hopefully i can improve in my heats and goes into the final. :p

[balang_479]

haha thanks...

[Matthijs]

has anybody more info about the car Mark Pavidis used at the Worlds? Pictures from under the hood? Not the setup, i found that, but wich servo's, fioroni parts, bearings, diff's, secret tricks etc. I can't seem to find much pictures about it, you might figure that Kyosho would show everthing about the car, or are there to much aftermarket parts on it? ;)

[balang_479]

Option Team for sure, he was using OT shocks, usual toe in blocks and stuff... But dont knwo if he was using Torsen diffs. The rest should be standard, i know know a guy which has everything on his buggy changed to Option Team, and i tell it doesnt make any difference. Hes just a damn good driver.

[AreCee]

Pavadis is sponsored by Futaba so I'm rather sure that he doesn't have Airtronic servos in his ride. ;)

[Matthijs]

and again, a question.... :D on my search for 'under the hood pics' i stumbled across something. At some "pro' drivers car's" i noticed that they don't use the spring at the servo gas-rod to close the carb, when braking. I haven't tried it yet, but is there some meaning in this? I could imagine that it's usefull to adjust your braketrim 'on the fly' and not having to worry about locking up the spring to much, and resulting in burning the servo...

http://www.kyoshofrance.com/fr/k-mag/courses/Pierrefeu2006/popup/DSC_%201750.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

you are correct, and while i think its a good idea, i dont like the fact that the rubberband could bust, resulting in a runaway. constant pulling on a rubberband can cause it to break, also, instead of having tension against the servo at rest, the tension is now against the servo while at throttle.

[dgrobe2112]

i pposted this on sgrid.. and someone stated, that if you use another blue collar on there, at the point of full brake, put a collar on there so, if it does brake, that you can go to full brake, and it will come to idle.. still dont know if i like it though.. cuz then you cant add brake anymore..

[AreCee]

First of all that rubber band is tied to the linkage wire and while that may close the throttle if the battery power fails it won't do anything if the linkage pops off.

Second as Dan said, it's a rubber band and will break easily. Do you wish to trust a rubber band to stop a runaway? I don't.

Third, I believe that the spring you are refering to is the spring that presses the throttle into the closed position when you have the throttle at neutral. It is commonly called the throttle over-ride spring. This doesn't exert any or much pressure against the servo. A TRS will exert pressure against the servo.

Anyway in my opinion it is hack and maybe a quick fix to satisfy a track's rule that all vehicles must have a TRS.

[Matthijs]

ok, combining two things here :D I found a pic of pavidis car at the worlds (thankt to neobuggy). Lot's of Fioroni around, even the chassisplate. And maybe i'm not looking very well, or the picture is to small, but he also doesn't use the spring (i saw more car's without it). Not that i'm planning on riding without the spring, i just noticed it, and kept wondering why...

http://www.neobuggy.net/uploads/photos/3827.jpg

[Matthijs]

oh, just one more..then off to bed... ;)

At the masters in Japan, Kanai drove a mp777 WC with some blue Knuckle arms.... a new future tuningpart by Kyosho or again Italian cnc?

http://www.kyosho.de/shop_image/event/91de3e656272e5c1dcc7a5869855d295.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

kyosho will be releasing new CNC knucks soon.. :)

[balang_479]

Thats Fioroni.. i have them im sre its those... their best, as their light and small, dont get in the way of things.. All the guys round here uses them.

If any of you guys want Fioroni parts i can give you a price here and see if its cheaper to buy here then ill send it too you, just a thought,

[maSkedrideR]

hi guys, I just brought this OS engine for leisure run and would like to know how you guys do a proper running in the engine. May i know, shall i run in the dirt track or just in nearby carpark ? what kind of plug no. should i use in-term if i going to race for it ?

noted : I broke my Sirio Crankshaft and waiting for the parts to arrive.. :(

thanks

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w104/maskedrider_sirio/21V.jpg

[Matthijs]

in the carpark, always use plug no3 (no other will work) and that's not a 'leisure' engine.... it will be faster then your sirio :D
oh, and please, don't start discussion here about the best engine ;)

about the knuckles....that would be a welcome part, broke a few on my old mp7.5... on the mp777 not one yet, but i've got some dragonracing knuckles on it now.

[maSkedrideR]

in the carpark, always use plug no3 (no other will work) and that's not a 'leisure' engine.... it will be faster then your sirio :D
oh, and please, don't start discussion here about the best engine ;)

about the knuckles....that would be a welcome part, broke a few on my old mp7.5... on the mp777 not one yet, but i've got some dragonracing knuckles on it now.

ok...no more engine topic... :p :o
because 777 had no issue at all !! :winner:

[dgrobe2112]

do the heat cycle method of breakin on the engine. the way i do it..

heat the engine with heat gun, or hair dryer, then crank it on the box. i let it idle on the box for bout 3-4 mins, with little blips now and then. then kill it.

turn the flywheel to the bottom of the stroke so the piston is at bottom of sleeve.

wait for engine to cool

reheat engine with gun, then crank it up, run it on the ground, slowly gaining speed, short burst of power, do this for bout 5-7 mins.. do not let tank run out of gas. kill the motor, put piston at bottom dead center.

let engine cool.

repeat last step 2 more times. after that, you can start leaning the engine for race tune.

the key here, is to let the engine cool in between runs. and getting it up in the operating temp. 220-230. run for a few mins.. then kill it.

enjoy. :)

[Matthijs]

anyone tried the 3 degr. anti squat instead of the 2 degr? In theory it should be better on a smooth track, but then again, it's theory.

I have a race this weekend, run at artificial grass, high grip, few jumps and slow corners. I'm planning on running with fiornoni diff's in front and middle, 1k rear, 500 / 400 shockoil and hobao cross tires if wet, grp cross on wet/dry combo track, crimefighters if dry... more tips?

Last race at that track i had problems with:
- traction roll at corner entry
- rear tires spinning and drifting the car at corner exit
- to much push, at some corners it went to wide, i seems to be conflicting with my previous point :confused:

[dgrobe2112]

personally, not too sure bout the situation your working with, but when we run high grip situations, we up the center diff.. your running fironi diffs?? are those considered LSD diffs, or something like that.. personally.. that may be your issues right there..

i dont think the 3deg will solve your issues, that basically only helps the car in a straight line under acceleration, and i think would only help on a rough track, when you gotta run really light shock oils..

I run the 3deg in my STR, to limit rear weight transfer under power. best thing to tell ya is to try it out and see how you like it.

[Matthijs]

thanks D, the fioroni are torsen's. Real loose off power, and adding power to the non-slipping wheel when on power. The last race on this track I tried the torsen in front, went really good, better than a normal diff with 5k or 7k. Other drivers use it too, or BBF's in front-center-rear. For this race i'm trying torsen in front and center.

I'll trie and alter the downstop and droop, see what that does on this track!

[dgrobe2112]

yeah, thats a good idea, limit droop in the front, will also help with on power steering push..

[Matthijs]

allright, torsen in centerdiff doesn't work for me... made the car really nervous, no control in-and-out turns, lots of understeer while on-power. In the morning track was slightly wet (artificial grass), so no problems with traction roll :D For the 1/2 final I put a normal diff in, and steering was much better. No traction roll either, track was dry, so playing with droop helped. Didn't make it to the final, My new Ninja engine finally got loose, so during the race i had to tune it. Halfway i was hit by another car, and from that point on my engine run really bad. Turned out that the stinger was bent, fumes were obstructed by the bodywork, and a lot of oil in my car... oh well, learned a lot, need to prep the car for this sunday, big race: Holland vs. Germany!

oh yeah, blown rear shock also, stupid K-shocks..nothing but trouble, some other K-riders had the same problem, I'll change the bladder again..

[balang_479]

Awesome the Holland vs Germany race, you defenately gonna have fun, one of the few main races in europe, all the rest you have to be invited too (Nationals, Euros).

[Matthijs]

update on the shocks, it wasn't the bladder. The clip and o-rings were loose..

for sure gonna have some fun at the Holland - Germany race, just hoping the weather will be fine....

[AreCee]

That's about what I thought since the shock will still function even with a blown bladder. It will leak a little through the bleed hole but not a lot.

Now the shaft seal is different, a leak there will drain the shock rather quickly.

[nigru]

Hi, from where can i buy some tire offsets??? Thanks

[Matthijs]

Well, the Germany - Holland race was awesome! Won by Marcus Feldman, 8 german drivers in the final, and 2 dutch :o But overall the dutch won! I had a bad day, in first qualifying I broke the rear suspension arm (crash) and in the 1/8 final my rear shock blew on me, again.... clip got loose, o-rings came down and no oil in it anymore... :mad: Next week I'll spend some serious time building and tuning the shocks, if they fail again I'll change them for some big bore hongnor / jammin shocks (that's what most kyosho drivers do over here....). On the positive side, my Ninja gets better and better every tank... it's really fast and powerfull!

[balang_479]

So you got to the final??? sorry about the unluck of the shocks, my last race i lost cause of a glow plug

[Matthijs]

No, didn't get to the final. Some gossip from neo-buggy:

It would seem that Kyosho are working on a follow up to the MP777 WC, possibly due in August 2007?

At least those are the rumours; as usual, Kyosho's representatives have vehemently denied any knowledge, existance or remotest likelihood...of it happening. Anyway, whether or not its true, a successor is likely to the MP777 series to compete with the 'buggy 2.0 generation' of Losi 8ights which are ripping up the competition at the highest levels around the United States. The gossip surrounding 'A new Kyosho' are in particular the shocks.

so, maybe at the end of this season my shock problems are over ;)

[balang_479]

i hope something new comes out for Kyosho, id like to see them dominate again.

[Mika]

Those days are over.....

[Matthijs]

I'll agree, there are just to many competitive buggies around. It all depends on who's driving them ;)

What I'd like to see with Kyosho is a bit more 'class', or exclusiveness. I mean, they sell the MP777 WC edition in the same old paper box as the 1st mp777 (with a new print on the cover), a manual that's on cheap paper and black / white, no tools in the box, no major changes since the first mp777 (drivetrain, steering, etc..), the screws are crappy and the shocks suck. The ride is good, no problems with that, but you pay big bucks for a kit, and when i look at some other kits, they just offer more 'pro feeling and image'.

Now I know thats not important on the track, but you gotta have something to complain about and push the Kyosho engineers to something new and special....

[dgrobe2112]

the complaints have been heard, and kyosho will take care of their customers. There are new things coming down the pipeline for sure, and when they get here.. lotta happy people. The thing is, even though there are these complaints, and stuff, the car is still just as good as these other kits with the "so called" better stuff. I dont have shock issues. Sure, big bores may be better, who knows. Ive never used them. But the car is still good, and had many in the A main at the worlds. i use the stock screws, and have no problems with them either. i got a Hudy #2 screw driver, and it works on almost every screw in the car. Tools, well.. Xray does beat people on that. but heck, you see associated, and losi, and all these other mfg's givin L wrenches as well..

Black and white manual on cheap paper.. cmon.. it gets the job done. and thats what its there for. i can build the car without the manual. use it one time, and it goes in a folder, hidded away forever.. Same old Box.. wow.. thats an odd one as well.. why spend money on a new box, when the customer is just gonna get rid of it.. or have it sit up on a shelf in storage.

I love the car, and sure.. it will get better, and i am sure there are other kits out there with the better bling factor, or whatever.. Mugen, Xray, HoBoa. May be a little cheaper, but not by much.

Kyosho MP777 WC 629.99
Mugen MBX5R 599.99
Xray XB8 599.99
Jammin FTE 519.99 (get a Kanai 3, same car)
Team Majic 619.99
Losi Eight 599.99 (seen them cheaper at some websites)

[balang_479]

Ive also had no issues with the shocks ever, and im running 2 cars with the same shocks (no problem) and i love the car, its got a familiar feeling to it even before i bought a 1/8 buggy and i looked around for one, the Kyosho is the standard buggy look i was looking for. The screws are good but i upgraded then to better RCScrewz and i dont have a problem with the cheap stuff, but i must agree i wish i had a kit like the Team Magic which has all those amazing packaging and tools and extra little nice fancy bits to it. The TM box is nice and the manual, same for other manufactures which make you feel like you got something special, not just another random kit (which it isnt but you know what i mean)...

I suppose its a matter of opinion but i like to be treated nicely by a company with good packaging and high quality parts and a feeling that the company is right behind you supporting you with upgraded options to resolve problems or just to better the car that you have and also to inform you aswell (Kyosho site has nothing)

If Kyosho dont make a change to their stuff and amp it to the level of other exclusive manufatures, i probably wont buy a Kyosho Buggy for the 2008 season, the buggy is great like i said, but like Matthjs said its more the driver than the buggy, ther all fairly the same (maybe the 8ight is abit ahead) and its these little touches, for me, that make the difference...
just my 2 cents :D

[dgrobe2112]

hey, i aint hatin.. i totally understand what your talkin bout..

[balang_479]

yeah yeah, i understand what your talking about too, im sure we all know what we mean,

What the hell who cares, its a great buggy.... lets all hug like a big family (tears) JK :D

[Matthijs]

:D
I think I finally got the shocks right... practice this saterday, and at the end of the day no air in, or oil out.... I didn't drive the car too hard, so I will be sceptic for the next races... ;)

I'm changing from a stick radio to a wheel type, so I really need the practice and not much tool time for the car....

Any news on the cnc-nuckles?

I busted my Ninja pipe, a little crack at the stinger's base. I ordered a jammin jp3 pipe, wich will team up with the Ninja and my old RB WS7 II. Good choice?

Last question, when are you changing the oil in the diff's? Not for tuning, but maintaining them.

[dgrobe2112]

JP3 pipe is a good pipe, also very very durable..

I usually change my diff oils if they feel like they are thin. i usually change the rear more often than the rest.. when i used to race every weekend, club racing, then big races, i would change them before the big race.. but i would go 4 or so club races, without changing the oil. club racing is just practice.. but i would change the diffs for the big race. Now, i dont have a club track anymore, I dont gotta change them as much