Inferno MP777

[windellmc]

Actually you need to use the 20 degree hub carriers to increase turn in. Other things that help turn in: L block instead of H block, B block instead of A. The back holes in the steering rack, thinner front or rear diff oil. Note that some of these things will take away on power steering.

[dgrobe2112]

hmm Sgrid told me different.. maybe i read it backwards or something.. my bad

[KyoshoKev]

hey fellas.

anyone have problems fitting the top arm, it is touching the top 4mm nut that holds the steering knuckle and hub carrier.

[dgrobe2112]

i havent had that problem.. i did notice that it was pretty close.. i got some button head screws that i an thinkin of putting in there..

[KyoshoKev]

i ended up having to do that aswell.. either that or use dremel

[KanaiDude]

So I wanna buy a monster truck, either a ReVo, MGT, LST, or build an unlimited monster with havoc chassis. What would you guys get if buying an MT right now for racing? I know I know this is an 1/8 scale kyosho thread, what better place to ask where people actually know what there doing!

[dgrobe2112]

haha.. personaly.. do a truggy.. you wont be dissappointed with it.. trust me.. cuz you can carry your Kyosho setups over to the Kyosho Truggy. use your same starter box.. and everything.. If i were to do a monster truck.. thats what i would do..

[dgrobe2112]

but if i had to choose.. man.. thats a tough one.. Revo is nice.. but it just dont seem durable.. if your lookin for a Revo.. i know a buddy of mine is lookin to sell his.. and has lots of stuff done to it.. I like the LST also.. not the MGT...

[KanaiDude]

Truggy is very tempting I almost have enough parts to straight up build one, but I know as soon as my truggy hits the track and I start woopin azz with it, people will be calling foul as fast as the truggy spanks there ReVo. I don't really care about that but I wouldn't mind owning a "real" monster truck, I am heavily leaning in the direction of the LST with that in mind. Thanks for your input though DG you always help me rethink things a little, truggy=serious beat down on the track hmmmm, LST= serious monster truck/basher/racer it is a tough choice...

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. LST..cuz you buy that truck.. then turn around and sell the Synthesized radio.. if you give the receiver with it.. and all that.. you can make 200 bux back on the truck just like that.. so personally.. LST, over the MGT, but the Revo looks nice.. i like the engineering behind it.. with the shock setup.. but i seen them break an awful lot.. Steve Slayden, drives for Traxxas.. he is a good driver.. and his Revo is not even close to stock.. So.. Revo is nice.. but i think its fragile..

[Toiffel]

Sorry if someone already posted this question but here it goes... I'm looking into getting Kyosho buggy, and noticed that tower has a 777 and a 777 special edition, there's a 200 or something dollar difference. What's different between both of them?? Is there a big change performance wise???
Any help much appreciated.

[KyoshoKev]

Sorry if someone already posted this question but here it goes... I'm looking into getting Kyosho buggy, and noticed that tower has a 777 and a 777 special edition, there's a 200 or something dollar difference. What's different between both of them?? Is there a big change performance wise???
Any help much appreciated.

not sure with the 777, but from experience with the 7.5 and kanai... it better value to get the kanai. u probably pay $200 extra but get around $300+ in extra gear.

[Shakedown]

Sorry if someone already posted this question but here it goes... I'm looking into getting Kyosho buggy, and noticed that tower has a 777 and a 777 special edition, there's a 200 or something dollar difference. What's different between both of them?? Is there a big change performance wise???
Any help much appreciated.


Off of the top of my head.....

Special 1 includes:

Hard anodized chassis
Hard anodized shock bodies
Different shock pistons
Blue shock springs(Kanai)
Blue anodized alloy radio tray posts
Blue anodized axles & nuts
Center and rear universals
Finned and blue anodized motor mounts
TCD front diff
Two different steering blocks(20 & 22 degree)
Ti upper rods/turnbuckles
Lightened spur gear
Different brake discs
Alloy(blue again) wing-stay spacer thingies


Actually, the regular version still is a pretty good deal. All you need is center and rear universals and a set of the Sp1 shocks from ebay for when you wear out the blue ones and it should be competetive. Alot of people don't use the TCD too anyway.

BUT, if are planning to get ALL or most of the hop-ups later then you just should go for the Sp1. That and a diff bevel gear set(IF102) and diff bevel shaft(BS107) so you can run a regular diff up front.

[KanaiDude]

If you go back a page or two there has been a ton of talk on this thread about which kit to buy, actually most guys I think are getting the standard kit, and then upgrading the parts as they need to from ebay more then likely, it's nice to pay 500 for a competitive kyosho buggy for a change.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, here we go.. i pesonally like the regular kit better.. and i will list the reasons why.. i bought the regular kit over the SP1, I thought of getting the SP1, saved for it.. then decided on the regular kit, and i am glad i did.. but.. the money i saved.. i spent on the regular.. so.. i spent the same amount.. and this is what i did..

Special 1 includes:

Hard anodized chassis (anodizing comes off the bottom.. not needed for perfomance)
Hard anodized shock bodies (havent got them yet.. but will)
Different shock pistons (get those with the new shocks)
Blue shock springs(Kanai) (got some allready)
Blue anodized alloy radio tray posts (bling not needed)
Blue anodized axles & nuts (bling not needed)
Center and rear universals (got them off ebay for 50 bux for all 4)
Finned and blue anodized motor mounts (not needed)
TCD front diff (use standard anyway)
Two different steering blocks(20 & 22 degree) (standard comes with 22, 20 on ebay for 10 bux)
Ti upper rods/turnbuckles (again, overpriced kyosho parts.. got some from the hobby shop, 15 bux for all)
Lightened spur gear (may do this later)
Different brake discs (i got cradock brakes, 10 bux on ebay)
Alloy(blue again) wing-stay spacer thingies (bling)
SP1 shock towers (i got king headz shock towers)

So, what i did, is got all the parts i could.. with the extra money, i bought King headz shock towers, and chassis braces, i bought turnbuckles from the LHS, i bought universals from Ebay, also bought an extra set of arms, front, rear, upper, lower, off ebay, you can get the blue parts off ebay also. Only thing i am really wanting is the shock kit, which will be around 75-80 bux, and that is all i really need. I spent almost all of the amount i woulda spent on the SP1, and i got tons of spares allready, and better shock towers, and chassis braces..

Oh, by the way.. the regular version comes with the SP1 ball bearing steering.

[Shakedown]

dgrobe2112,

I agree with what you are saying, especially if you already have extra parts already and are willing to spend time looking for, buying and waiting for upgrades from ebay or slowly upgrade as your checkbook allows.

As for me, I have no extra 1/8 parts whatsoever(except for the Super Pirate I used to race looong ago) and I dont really have time to look all over the place for upgrades. Besides, I rather put the kit together with upgrades already on it rather than wait for all the upgrades that you ordered to arrive.

Again, like many said, the regular 777 is a great deal considering it is a Kyosho and not a RTR. Just a few key parts are needed to make it a reliable and competetive buggy.

[dgrobe2112]

I see what your sayin.. and i agree.. but the main upgrades that the SP1 has that is better than the regular.. i think.. is the shock towers.. and the teflon coated shocks..and really... thats all i can think of.. i didnt have to search or anything.. they are on ebay allready, the seller i get my stuff from is Ben88.. he is a great seller.. fast shipping.. and kingheadz allready has the hopups for the buggy. As a matter of fact.. when i ordered my buggy.. i ordered the parts the next day.. and my parts got here before the buggy did.. haha.. but i like the SP1 too

[Shakedown]

For those in the market for a 777 Sp1, the cheapest I found was on Stella Models online store. Got mine in four days for $715 shipped. Great service and tracking updates too.

As for the regular 777, I have seen them on ebay as low as $400 BIN + $15 shipping from a seller in NY. Too bad I didn't see that before I bought the Sp1.

[Shakedown]

Just found this.....


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=49213&item=5920509181&rd=1

[invsible]

hey guys just saw on ebay the og mp7.5 nib $200.00 not a bad deal but it is a few years old............

[Lapster]

Hey guys, the buggy is running awesome now. Some frequency problems kept me from finishing a race though. I have a question though, i'm running 3-5-1k oil in my diffs, if I switched to 2k up front, would it make the car turn faster?

[dgrobe2112]

2k in the front.. will be good entering the corners off power.. but will be worse with on power steering.. what is it you are wanting out of the car.. you wont get faster steering.. with diff oil changes..

[KanaiDude]

So DG you still loving the buggy, can you really tell that much of a difference? I am having moral issues with buying it, my k2 is in pristine condition with new parts, I can sell parts new in package and my buggy and pay a little and get the kit. I just feel like I am doing fine really with the k2 I can drive that thing hard when I'm on my game, and maybe wait till next spring.

[dgrobe2112]

i am loving this buggy, and at first, i had some moral issues just as you are, but once i got the setup on the car, and got a few laps on it.. it went away as fast as my laptimes started going down.. haha.. i am so much happier with this car, it turns a ton better, handles and jumps and response to the input alot better. Wish you were closer.. i would let you drive mine so you can see the difference.. car sticks.. planted.. in turns.. no more from end washing out in the big high speed sweepers.. Great car..

[KanaiDude]

I'm ebay now looking for either kit, i could have got the special with 50 bucks in spare parts for 650 shipped kicking myself now. If tower would get it in stock i could get the regular for 450 shipped thats not bad either. Any idea when the other companies are going to put there 777 products out fioroni in particular? Every one in town has a new buggy mbx5 prospec is the hot item at my track ill be outnumbered with a kyosho imagine that. I may run my k2 one last time tomorrow night these storms in the carolinas are killing us lately I need stick time!!!!!

[dgrobe2112]

well.. king headz has the full kit allready.. racers edge and them are supposed to have theirs out pretty soon also.. not sure when.. 650 with 50 bux in spare parts.. thats a good price.. i paid 490 shipped for mine.. there are a few of them on ebay now.. check for the lowest shipping charge..

[KanaiDude]

Does the regular kit come with all dog bones? what is the cost to upgrade to the special, tie rods shocks and unis? Have you heard anyones feedback on the box setup for the special, are people using the lsd diff or no?

[dgrobe2112]

Heard the LSD diff is pretty good.. in the new car.. i bought the regular.. and took the extra money i saved.. instead of buying the special.. and used that to buy hopups.. and parts and stuff.. and i have only gone over like 50 bux.. i spent around 50 more than the price of the SP1, and i have better shock towers, chassis braces.. got the universals for the center and rear, got a full set of spare arms, SP1 shock kits, turnbuckles. Did alot of ebayin though.. ben88 on ebay is the man.. and think.. all the stock stuff are spare parts.. spare center dogbones.. spare rear dog bones.. spare shock towers, spare set of shocks.. full set of spare arms.. spare stock chassis braces.. the regular MP777 allready has the ball bearing steering that the SP1 has. so.. i dont have the hard anodized chassis.. but.. the bottom of my buddies SP1 looks exactly the same color as my regular one.. haha..

So, im not trying to say which one to buy.. just saying what i did.. and i am round the same price as the SP1, and got lots of spare parts allready.. :) You will very pleased with either purchase.. trust me.. you will be like 7.5.. what is that..

The standard setup is golden.. i heard alot of the 7.5 setup works.. i had my 7.5 setup on there.. and it was too loose.. and oversteered.. i went back to the standard setup the book has.. and love it.. with 5/7/1 diffs.. have not tried the LSD diff.. thinkin of trying it this week.. or next..

[KanaiDude]

Well it's done I should have the special late next week, I won't mind running the box setup for a while and then upgrading. I am just looking forward to getting my hands on it now. My K2 is ebay bound soon, I have a very nice new body for it to, bummer I was going to run it tomorrow. Thanks for your input DG if I could have gotten the regular from a US seller I would have gone that route I think, my guy only has 1 special for a good price, so i said whatever!

[dgrobe2112]

sweet.. welcome to the world of 777.. hahah.. glad you made cross.. you will be too.. trust me.. and yes when you said setup.. i thought you meant car setup.. but you meant the stock parts.. and stuff.. yeah.. the SP1 shock towers are hardened or something.. so they are much better than the stock 777 towers.. your 7.5 body wont fit either.. too wide or something.. hahah.. you will love the car..

[Yogi]

I just wanted to say thank you. Little Horn, dgrobe2112, and all the others that had good info and the link to RC-Mushroom for the 777. Got the buggy in one week and spent the weekend building it. Finished the body and included a link to pictures.

photos (http://community.webshots.com/user/yogi275)

[Little_Horn]

Don´t mention it. It's always a pleasure to help someone.
One more thing...
Welcome to the mp777 club!!! ;)

[dgrobe2112]

no problem, glad to help, if you need any help with setup, or any other info.. feel free to post on here.. i check this site all the time.. and will do my best to answer any questions i can.. :)

[KanaiDude]

Hey DG, I was thinking of placing an order to kingz, is he a fast shipper? I was going to order chassis braces, knuckles and maybe some rear and front toe blocks, sound like a good idea?

[dgrobe2112]

he is a super fast shipper, great guy to deal with.. www.kingheadz.com i am gonna be ordering the front and rear blocks also.. gotta save up though.. you will not be dissappointed in the product..

[dgrobe2112]

oh.. if you want.. i know you got fioroni knucks on your K3 right?? if you want to save some money.. they will fit on the 777

[KanaiDude]

I already ordered!! knuckles, braces and front and rear toe blocks ouch!! I'm putting the k3 up on ebay tonight I think, roller with tons of parts. So are the diffs any different, the actual cases gears outdrives, I am trying to see what I can salvage from my parts collection.

[dgrobe2112]

diffs are the same.. all the internals and stuff are the same.. also.. the front shocks are the same as the K3.. so ifyou got spare front shock stuff from your K3.. it will work on the 777. Sorry i missed on letting you know bout the knucks.. lets see.. i think thats about it.. if you got titanium turnbuckles.. those will all work also.. you are gonna be much more pleased with this buggy..

funny thing.. didnt you say something bout Mugen taking over where you are?? cuz the same thing has happened here.. we got 4 mugen MBX5's now.. they outnumber the Kyosho.. other than the RTR ofnas that we got alot of.. the Mugen is the higher numbered car..

[KanaiDude]

Mugen hass invaded my track. So far I am the only 777 and there are like 5 prospecs and counting, not sure what the deal is, can't wait to spank them with my K-car! I will be looting my ebay parts lot for diff stuff and front shocks thanks!

[dgrobe2112]

what do you mean looting your ebay parts..

[KanaiDude]

I'm selling my k3 and all of the parts with it on ebay, so I'm going to loot/ransack my own stuff and then list it. No need to sell diff cases and gears, shock rebuild kit etc...

[Shakedown]

he is a super fast shipper, great guy to deal with.. www.kingheadz.com i am gonna be ordering the front and rear blocks also.. gotta save up though.. you will not be dissappointed in the product..


I just got my parts from King Headz. I ordered the braces and the knuckles. The parts look to be of very high quality(machining and anodizing) and are lightweight too. Being made of 7075 alloy is a plus also. I just wish they were available in a hard anodized finish too but I guess it wouldn't match the Kyosho blue lol.

[Motorman007]

I have the new hubs. The 3 holes top
can someone till me what each hole does for the buggy.

0 0 0
inside hole middle hole outside hole


right now i have mines in the middle hole.

to me it seem that if you put the mount in the middle hole the buggy seem to center faster coming out of turn. like if i have a sharp turn i can turn in faster and i'm able to line up for the jump a head of me.

could someone give me more info on this?

thanx Dibs

[Little_Horn]

At first, many people complained that the mp777 was a little unstable on a straight line. The new hubs solved that problem.
The outside hole is the one used in the mp777 standard hub.
The center hole is the one used in the mp 7.5 standard hub.
The inside hole is a new one. To use the inside hole, you need to buy new (smaller) front upper arms.
Miguel Matias, the vice-champion of the world (and also, the first kyosho in the worlds), used the inside hole in the finals.

[dgrobe2112]

good info Little horn.. glad you made it to our side of the world Dibs.. got you a 777 now huh?? you going to the Invitationals this year??

[Motorman007]

no 777 i just put them on my hyper. ;-**

you do know that Ofna makes allof kyosho Parts? and they use the same molds and plastic.

the new hyper will come with the same hubs. so i just go a jump on the other people. ;-** no INvitational for me my next race is the ofna race with Daddy Paul C.

i hope to see you there if you can make it.

dibs

[Motorman007]

At first, many people complained that the mp777 was a little unstable on a straight line. The new hubs solved that problem.
The outside hole is the one used in the mp777 standard hub.
The center hole is the one used in the mp 7.5 standard hub.
The inside hole is a new one. To use the inside hole, you need to buy new (smaller) front upper arms.
Miguel Matias, the vice-champion of the world (and also, the first kyosho in the worlds), used the inside hole in the finals.


Horn.

not saying you are not right.
but what i see on from the worlds.

the new 777 old hubs only had one hole and it was center over the bolt and center over the hole hub. i'm i wrong to say that?


Horn:The outside hole is the one used in the mp777 standard hub.

i was thinking the new hole was the outside hole and not the inside hole?

let me see if i can get some pic's

i maybe wrong super horn. :)

[Motorman007]

http://www.neo-buggy.net/worlds/tuesday1/tue%20027.jpg

http://www.neo-buggy.net/worlds/Friday/fri%20048.jpg

http://www.neo-buggy.net/worlds/saturday/sat%20035.jpg

http://www.neo-buggy.net/worlds/sunday2/DSCN4074.JPG

[Motorman007]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXX9&P=7

the outside is new i think?

thank you for your info

dibs

[dgrobe2112]

I dont think i will be able to make the Ofna race.. Amarillo is a long way.. but when is that race?? might make the trip? You going to Regionals?? I wont be able to make that either.. work got really busy lately..

As far as the hub goes.. i dont know what the differences are.. Sgrid will be able to answer that question.. i got the original hubs in my MP777, with 1 hole.. so.. i dont gotta worry bout it.. hahah..

[Motorman007]

you know we got to have all the new stuff out. lol

that ofna race is in Oct 22.

regionals?
where is that?

[dgrobe2112]

Hmm.. may be able to make that one.. not sure though.. Regionals is down in Harlingen.. Oct. 2-3. Region 9 Regionals.. I wanted to go really bad.. but just cant get away from work.. oh well.. maybe the Ofna race..

[Motorman007]

that is long drive for sure. man. lol Harlingen wow.

if i go that will be 14 hour drive. wow.

[Little_Horn]

I'm sure I'm right, and I'll use some of the pictures you posted to justify it, if you allow me.
In this picture (http://www.neo-buggy.net/worlds/tuesday1/tue%20027.jpg) you can see the 3 holes hub. If you compare the mp777 original hub with this one, you will see that the outside hole is the same in both. Besides that, I had the 3 holes hub in my hands, just a couple of days after the worlds. I invite anyone with a mp777 original hub to compare it with the previous picture and later post here about it.
This other picture (http://www.neo-buggy.net/worlds/saturday/sat%20035.jpg) gives you the illusion that the mp777 standard hole is in the middle. This happens because the picture was takes from the side. But once again i say: those who have it, look at the mp777 standard hub and compare it with the first picture.
You also posted a link (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXX9&P=7) to tower hobbies with a kyosho hub that's not from a mp777. This hub is very different from the mp777 hub. Tower doesn't have any mp777 or any material for it.
I'm pretty sure that this picture (http://www.neo-buggy.net/worlds/sunday2/DSCN4074.JPG) is from Matias car. I can tell because I know how Matias car was, because my LHS guy installed all the options in Matias car, and he told me. By the way, the LHS guy is a top 10 driver here in my country (Portugal) and has a lot of racing experience.
First, you can see by the picture's link that this picture was taken on Sunday. Matias used the inside hole only on Sunday. The option parts used are all from fioroni, except the radio tray. This happens because my LHS guy didn't have time to install the radio tray from fioroni. You can see that the blue color from the fioroni front tower is a little darker than the radio tray's blue. The servos are all from sanwa. Matias uses a Sanwa M8 (you might know it by the name of Airtronics). That plastic thing that is in the servo-saver (that the rod that goes from the steering servo connects to), is the reinforced one. Notice how it has a reinforcement under it (2 plastic vertical "lines"). I also had this part in my hand. You can also notice that the upper suspention holder is made in aluminiun and has no anodizing (it is in aluminium color). This piece is a prototype and I also had it in my hand. You can also see a nut (just behind the upper suspention holder) from K-factory's Hardened Steel Hinge Pin Set. By the way, it's possible to use the mp7.5 set in the mp777. I was told before that, to use the set, you would need 2 extra hings pins, but now, my LHS guy found a way to use the set (without the need of extra hinge pins) and we still get left over hinge pin. Don't ask me how to do it because I don't know yet. But I will, and will be able to explain it to you guys if you want too, as soon as I buy my set.

[dgrobe2112]

also.. just to point out.. the picture from the side.. that has 1 hole.. is taken of a Hyper7.. not a 777.. not sure if that makes any difference or not..

Kingheadz has a new aluminum servo piece.. check it out on their website

[Motorman007]

super horn. thank you very much for clearing this up for me. and the others that will read this.

do you know what each hole does to the buggy?
outside hole
center hole
inside hole
again thank you for the insight dibs

and yes DG that is Paul C buggy

[Little_Horn]

Well, one more option for the servo piece is fantastic.
The new plastic reinforced piece is excellent already, so it's a matter of choice.

I can't explain exactly what each hole does. The fact is that each one of the holes gives you a different kind of stabillity. I think that with the outside hole, the steering is kind of "too fast" if you know what I mean. The car gets a little nervous (but turns like hell). On the middle one, the car behaves like in the mp 7.5. I can't compare the 777 with 7.5, because I never had another buggy besides the 777. But for what I heard, with the middle hole you get a softer, more controlled response, and consequently a buggy that's easier to control. The inside hole is the new one, so I can't predict it's behaviour.
The only way is to experiment with every hole, and use the one that suits you the most.
I can't even tell if I would prefer the outer, middle or inside hole. I never knew another buggy and I'm already used to it's reactions. I'm sure there's many people that would prefer the outside hole, other the middle one, and the other the inner hole. It's also very possible that you feel better with different holes in different tracks.
For example:
For short, very technical tracks, the outside hole might be the better choice, because you need lots of turn.
For long, fast tracks, the middle or inside holes could be a better choice, because the steering reactions would be more controled and softer.
On the other hand, one of the holes might be a better choice for tracks with lots of holes (in bad shape) and the others might be better for fast, good condition, few jump tracks.
I'm not saying that this is how you should use the holes in this specific situations. It's just my theory.
With theories left aside, I think that the resulting effect is that you get different camber angles when the suspension is compressed, with each one of the holes (because of the resulting different lengths from the upper arms set).
We all know that camber is very important, specially in curves.

[Motorman007]

again thank you SUPER HORN.

[streetracer]

again thank you SUPER HORN.

God, I hope thats not sarcasm. Just, lets not lead to fighting.


If its not, sry.

[Little_Horn]

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
:D :D :D

[dgrobe2112]

God, I hope thats not sarcasm. Just, lets not lead to fighting.


If its not, sry.

hahah.. right..

[dgrobe2112]

Kdude.. let me ask you a question.. you currently run the WS7II right?? You had a P5 right?? which did you like better?? I drove a P5 for the first time this weekend.. and i have to say.. that i like it a little better than my WS7II. what about you??

[KanaiDude]

I like the P5 it does have a ton of punch but I did find it a little lacking in the straight and almost a little to much punch for me to control well, I switched to softer springs though before I sold it and that helped alot but on a big track I could not pull down the RB in the straights. I have been liking the WS7 2 no complaints here, it seems to have a little smoother power band and not so much On/Off power. I still check ebay for JP mod engines that may be the next mill I try but I will probably run my RB for almost another year I have a new piston sleeve for it I'll probably put in over Winter. I think the P5, WS72, 421B, and V-spec are all top contenders right now and anyone can win with them, is just a matter of choice and even mood you may be in. My friend has a V-spec and I am very impressed with that Mill, it seems to have a TON of midrange power, he is the only one that can clear our table top from a stand still which is only a few feet, seriously that thing has some power.

Had another Bummer day at the track, 2nd fastest Q time and 3rd average out of 15, to break down 10 mins into the main AGAIN! Thank god my 777 will be on my door step today I am in desperate need of new equipment that's 3 races in a row not finishing the main. Everyone on the podium at the end was Wheeling a brand new car, only 1 777 and 4 prosecs!!! I'm gonna have to race this weekend so I can settle a score with myself...

[dgrobe2112]

haha.. the WS7II seems to be made for the MP777.. when i put the P5 in the 777.. the car seemed loose alot more than the WS7.. but cuz the P5 hit really hard on the bottom.. i just wasnt used to it.. total different driving style i guess.. i got 2nd this weekend at the big race.. behind a Mugen X5, and ahead of a Mugen X5. so.. im right in the middle.. i was the only 777 out there.. among lots of X5, and ofnas.. and 7.5's and so you know.. the 7.5.. broke in the main too.. imagine that.. haha he broke the drive cup on the front diff..

[KanaiDude]

Just wanted to show off my latest paint...

Linky (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5923727056&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT)

[Lapster]

Hey guys, i've got all the bugs worked out. Now all I have to do is finish a 45 minute main next weekend. What things should I do to the car in order to prep it for this race?

[KanaiDude]

Hey DG have you tried the LSD yet? come on man I need your feedback... got the kit today putting the diffs together now, i'm hearing good things about this car, seems to me mugen just had a few month head start with the prospec on the 777 but we'll catch up WOOT.

[KanaiDude]

Lapster - hmm biggest dissapointments have been... discharging my battery lol always make sure you have a juicy pack for a main like that, center uniiversals i've had those come loose at the set screw, shocks make sure there nice, tires glue the crap out of them, thread lock anything questionable, if you think you should replace something you better do it cause it will break... Good Luck!!

[dgrobe2112]

That paint job looks good..

Lapster.. for a 45 minute main.. i would definitly get another battery.. and have it charged.. and put it in brand new for the main.. other than that.. take your gallon of gas with you to the driver stand.. Also, before a big main like that.. i replace my clutch bearings. I dont worry bout the shoes unless they are totally worn out.. but for sure replace the bearings. Also, remove the motor mount screws and loctite them 1 by 1.. or at least go over the car and make sure all the screws are tight. Other than that.. you should be good to go.. make sure you wheels are tight as well.. make sure you are not running hot.. or too lean.. cuz over a 45min main.. that can hurt the motor.. also.. be smooth.. dont worry bout holeshot.. dont worry bout being in the back on the first lap.. long time to race.. long time to make up spots.. also.. take a stop watch.. figure out how long you can run on a full tank.. from startup. to run out.. and lets say.. you run out at 7miinutes... i would start thinking of pitting at 6.. at the latest.. come up with a pit strategy.. figure out fuel windows.. if you can go 6 minutes.. you will have to stop 7 times.. but if you can only go 5 minutes.. you will have to stop 8 times.. so.. also.. if you can go 6 minutes... you can change your strategy.. so you pit when everyone else is not.. and have a clear pit lane.. so.. think about it..if you count down from 45.. you pit at 39, then again at 33, 27, 21, 15, 9, 3. however.. if you count up.. you can pit at.. 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42. thats when your pit windows are.. first pit window is from 39-42 minute mark.. then second pit window is from 33-36, and so on.. so you got a 3 minute window to make your stop.. and still only stop in 7 stops.. kinda hard to explain... but you get the idea..

Kdude.. the LSD diff in the car.. i really cant tell a difference.. the car is so aggressive as it is.. that.. i didnt really notice a big difference.. however.. guys running the LSD are using LSD/4/1 diff oils.. i ran the LSD in there.. then tried another setup. which is my current setup.. 3/5/1. So.. you dont have to buy a new diff if you dont want too.. but its nice to have the option... but the LSD is fine in this car..

[Lapster]

Hey guys, thanks a lot. I think I might get a new reciever pack, im running a trinity 1100 MAh pack now, but I dont trust it, should I get a 1400mah pack??? And DG, thanks a lot for clearing up the pit time, I know that plays an important role, I pitted for a guy who didnt stop until the last minute and ran out of gas in the last 3 minutes and couldnt get his car started quickly.

I just replaced my clutch bearings last weekend, 4 races on them. And 1 more thing, will my engine stay at a consistent temp throughout the race, or do prolonged periods of time make the engine get a lot hotter?

[dgrobe2112]

Lapster.. if you are lookin for a good pack.. email Bob Prince.. Phone: (956) 440-8400
Bobbyshobbies@sbcglobal.net he has 2400mah battery packs for pretty cheap.. they are like 25 bux or something.. or you can contact Ron Atomic at www.kinetixrc.com he has some nice 2250mah packs for 19.95 you will have to call him.. from his contact page.. he has a phone number there.. they will run forever..

[jmf]

http://www.foreprecisionworks.com/images/1.jpg
http://www.foreprecisionworks.com/images/2.jpg
http://www.foreprecisionworks.com/images/3.jpg

[Venom2U]

Dose any one know if the Hyper 7 torsen difs fit in the 777? My Hyper is a fat hog and im thinking of up grading to a lighter chassy. But i would like to keep my torsen's. Any help would be great. Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. they will fit

[Venom2U]

WOUNDERFULL!!!!! 777 here I come!!! Thanks

[Little_Horn]

Let me see if I'm getting this right... You are going to use a 777 chassis on a hyper 7?
If this is the case, don't forget that the 777 chassis is shorter, and the center diff. is placed a little more to the front. You will have to buy center universals/dog bones.
Don't know if you have to buy anything else...

[Venom2U]

No No I want to get rid of my hyper 7 ( almost 1 full LBS. heaver than -mbx5,K3,777) But i was hopeing that my torsen difs will fit the 777. Because i have alot of money wraped up in them. Now that i know i can reuse my torsens with the 777 chassis im a happy camper!! ;)

[Little_Horn]

No No I want to get rid of my hyper 7 ( almost 1 full LBS. heaver than -mbx5,K3,777) But i was hopeing that my torsen difs will fit the 777. Because i have alot of money wraped up in them. Now that i know i can reuse my torsens with the 777 chassis im a happy camper!! ;)

Ok. Sorry for the missunderstanding. Welcome to our side of the force. :D :D :D

[Venom2U]

Thank you, Im looking forward to not luging an extra pound through the apex of every turn. :rolleyes:

[KanaiDude]

Finally got er done have a couple of build pics, she's just waitin for some action now...

[KanaiDude]

1 more, I love Kyosho!

[Venom2U]

Is that a stock 777?

[KanaiDude]

It's the special1, with King Headz front and rear chassis braces, knuckles, front and rear toe blocks.

[dgrobe2112]

looks very sweet.. i am diggin the orange.. with that WS7II head out the top.. looks nice.. you will love it.. :)

[Venom2U]

Are thoes upgrades needed?? IE are the stock knuckles weak?

That front shock tower looks REAL thin. Any one Bending them??

[KanaiDude]

The front towers are fine, the stock knuckles are on the weak side plus CNC knuckles will usually give you a little more steering clearence. Some disagree but I prefer CNC chassis braces, and the toe blocks I have seen them crack before.

[dgrobe2112]

The knucks are not required.. i am running the stock ones.. i think the chassis braces.. are a good hopup.. unless you are Kanai himself and never wreck.. i dont see people bending the SP1 shock towers.. they are a hardened.. and work fine.. but i assure you they will bend if hit hard enough

[orangutan racer]

Those diffrent holes on the c-block will change your camber gain. As your front suspention travels threw its range of motion the camber changes. Using the diffrent holes will change the amount of camber gain and change the handeling of the car. Try them out and find what works best for you.

[Venom2U]

Well that sets my mind at ease. It looked like the shock towers were stamped alunimun plate.

[orangutan racer]

The standard 777 shock towers look like stamped aluminum.
The special shock towers look like milled hardened aluminum, not steel.

[dgrobe2112]

srry bout thtat.. i knew they were aluminum.. dont know why i put steel on there.. also.. if you guys are lookin for a deal.. go to www.ultimatehobbies.com and get their phone number.. great deal on the SP1.. you will love the price.. and the regular.. even better price.. i am thinkin of getting me one.. just as a backup.. cant beat those prices..

[Shakedown]

King Headz Rear Chassis Brace.

Did any of you find yourself having to notch the rear brace in order to clear the inside rear screw boss on the radio box?

Seems like I have to do that with mine. I would hate to mess up that nice piece so i'm checking with you guys here.

[dgrobe2112]

shake.. no.. mine fit perfect.. i dont understand what your talkin about.. do you have a picture?? Also.. contact Chris at Kingheadz.. and let him know about it.. he will make it right..

[KanaiDude]

Shakedown I was going to do that but instead I just took some wire cutters and cut that hole off the radio box entirely, I don't think it will be a problem. If you contact King can you let me know what he says? thanks...

[invsible]

ace -hobbies has the sp1 kit for 679.99 on their site $20 less then ultimate........

[dgrobe2112]

call ace hardware.. you can get the SP1 for 599

[Little_Horn]

I just bought a steering servo for my mp777 (Futaba S9402) and got some 20º C-Hubs (for free!!! The LHS guy gave them to me).
I have 22º hubs installed, and would like to know what you guys use: 22º or 20º and why (exactly what kind of behavier are you looking for with the hub you're using).
I was told to use the 20º hubs (I'm from Portugal, in Europe). I believe, that with the 20º hubs, steering will be more agressive and have less turn it (and maybe more turn out???).
I think the kyosho guys in my country are using 20º (including the 2004 vice-world champion).
Do you guys think the change will be benefitial? Or not?
Please comment.

Thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

LH.. going down in castor will make the car more aggressive entering.. but less out.. so if your lookin for more exit steering.. go with the 22's all depends on what your lookin for

[Little_Horn]

Have you tried both with the mp777? Wich one do you like the most?

[dgrobe2112]

i have only run the 22's

[KanaiDude]

DG - PDL has Nova P5's for 219 dollars!!!! OMG!! I think I'm going to pick one up for a backup, I sold my last one...

[KanaiDude]

It even has the new filled crank, I'm sending mine to RB mods he says it will run like a JP or he'll send me a new one!

[dgrobe2112]

well.. i need to get rid of the WS7II first.. i got a brand new one.. post a link for it. Thanks.. is it the purple head? black head? blue head?

[KanaiDude]

It's a Nova purple, I just did a search again and can't find it, he had 9 at that price and they may have all sold in one day, RB mods bought one after telling him about it, and saw a few other people had last night, maybe email him if your interested really.

[KanaiDude]

Novarossi P5 219 bucks! (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34062&item=5926371671&rd=1)

These won't last long guys...

[Dirt Pilot]

Guys like you ruin these forums. Big deal if Mugen is the world champion this year. 9 times out of 10, it comes down to the driver and engine, not the car. Up until this past week when I bought my 777, I raced my regular 7.5 (not Kanai) with the only hop ups being chassis braces and rear universals. Out of the 10 times I raced, I finished either 1st or 2nd every time. This was only my 2nd r/c and 1st 1/8 buggy so I wouldn't consider myself a veteran driver. So get out of here with your my car is better than yours attitude and leave us alone.

Now onto my post. I just bought my regular 777 on thursday night, and finished building it saturday. My airtronics servos are a little too tall for the new radio tray so I had to shim them up along with the linkage for the steering. What servos are you guys running that actually fit? I'm going to run these servos for now until I save up some money to get a motor for my 7.5 so I can make a truggy out of it. Wednesday night will be my first night driving this so we'll see how well I'm going to like the new car.

[gotspeed_2000]

Dirt pilot is right. The car you drive doesn't make you a winner. It's a combination of everything. I don't even own a 777, but I agree that statements such as your car is better is way wrong and stupid. Every dog has it's day, and I don't mean to put down any MBX5 owners, but almost all pro level cars are very capable and what it comes down to is the type of track you race on and the driver's style of piloting his car and how he or she sets it up. Kyosho 1/8th buggies have won numerous races throughout the world ever since IFMAR started a world championship. Also Kazuya, the Kyosho 777 is newer than the MBX5 and thus some time to learn the setups is needed for newer drivers. It's just a matter of time until 777 owners have their cars dialed and are ready to string together another impressive list of wins for a car company who has pushed the envelope of 1/8th scale racing for many years. Without Kyosho, many of the buggies we now race might not be as good as they are without having to compete with Kyosho's buggies. I've raced against other pro-level cars and been beaten, done the beating and so on and I respect the other cars out there. The 777 is a great car, but so is the MBX5. Again, it comes down to preference, and just because one car won one race, it doesn't make it the best car available. If you want to get technical, the Hyper 7 Pro driven by Yannick Aigoin was the fastest in the first half of the final race. He was DQ'd for having a tank slightly larger than the "legal" size allowed. Does that make the Hyper 7 the best car? Of course not, because there is no best car for everyone. Only a preference that each of us have can determine which car is "better" for us as a individual.

Sincerely,
A proud, but respectfull Hyper 7 pro owner.

P.S. I don't mean to offend any 777 or MBX5 owners out there, just wanted to add my 2 cents.

[Little_Horn]

I don't know why you guys even bother to answer to such an a**hole like this guy, kazuya... ROTFL :D :D :D
This guy is clearly trying to mess with us, just for the fun of it, and then laughs even more when you guys try to answer to him.
I've seen guys like him in some foruns, and believe me that all they do is "bark". They don't contribute to add any kind of information. They don't help anyone. They are just plain and simple a**holes.

About the airtronics servos: I have a standard hitec servo and a Futaba S9402 and they fit quite well in my 777 radio tray. I bilieve that your airtronics servo is only a bit higher than the radio tray. With shims (like you just did) it will be OK and you wont feel the center of gravity affected, because the servo is only a little bit higher than normal. Don't worry about that. Use it and abuse! ;) Airtronics servos are great!

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. airtronics is what i run.. and they dont fit either.. but.. what i did was milled out my chassis like the k3.. i took 1.5mm out the chassis.. and its just about right.. you can shim your servo up with some washers or something.. or the black rubber things that go with the servos.. that will help.. but you need to do something.. cuz i didnt.. and burned up a servo.. pretty quick.

[Dirt Pilot]

I used shock spacers to shim up the servos as well as where the steering linkage connects since it looked like it could bind. Its just barely enough to not hit the chassis. I didn't want them vibrating on the chassis at all. I guess next paycheck I'll have to pony up for some Futabas like Kanai uses. dgrobe2112, I just finished reading all of this thread, and I noticed you switched back from 5,7,1 diff fluid to 3,5,1. Do you like 3,5,1 better? I assembled mine with 5,7,1 because I thought with all the extra steering this is supposed to have, it might slow it down for me to get used to it first.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah, i went back to 3/7/1, because i am using 22 degree blocks.. which help in exit steering, i got great turn in.. and the 22's helped with exit steering. so i tried to mild down the steering.. i tell ya.. when i first got the car.. i was turning into the pipes.. over steering.. and everything.. come out of the turn.. and spin out.. it was crazy.. went to 3k to mild it down some..

[KanaiDude]

Hey DG just a few hours left on that motor of yours Good luck! I saw one NIB on there and said hmmm I wonder if thats Daniel's motor. Finally it's race week, October fest with friday practice sat racing, sleep in my truck Friday night I love it! Both of my vehicals are beyond prepped with trick stuff all over, it's been an entire month with my 777 on the shelf, I'll have to post a pic of my body it's the sickest one yet. Did any of you guys see the new RC action with Ryan's 777 in there? I love the rear body post drilled sideways with the clips with a zip tie and fuel tubing on them.

[dgrobe2112]

KD.. yeah.. its at 250.. which is cool.. thats what i was hoping to get.. so.. im happy with that.. I didnt see the new article.. however.. i dont use the ziptie and fuel tubing thing anymore.. i seem to lose those more than without that stuff on it.. and the sideways hole.. i always do that.. helps save the body.. So... you havent run your trip7 yet?? wow.. your gonna be in for a treat.. good luck.. hope your car works good.. you still got your K3? or K2? ready to go.. if you feel your not ready for the 777 yet? I wasnt.. all that steering kicked me in the a$$.. get good practice.. you will need it.. trust me..

[KanaiDude]

No more K2 it went for 425 on ebay a few weeks ago, I was pretty happy with that. I plan on practicing all day on Friday, YAYAY!! So are you going to pick up a P5 with that dough? I sent mine off to RB mods already hope to get it back in a week or two, he said it would run like a JP or he would send me a new one! So when your racing your WS7 2, do you find it really HAS to be run at 250 degrees? The last time I raced it was at 225-230 and it didn't seem all that sluggish but I still felt like I had to drive it... The week before I ran it at 250 and it drove me, and I was smoking all over the track, never been so fast... Going to make sure my temps are up for this next race.

[dgrobe2112]

nah... my motor ran at around 240.. i didnt think i needed the motor that hot.. but it was a beast.. you will love the motor.. i am gonna get me another P5 yes.. hopefully i can get another rex P5.. so.. we will see..

[xxxnt23]

im really thinking about getting the 777, i've wanted an inferno since i saw the mp-5. ultimate hobbies has the standard kit for $319 and free shipping, i was wondering if this is a good price?

also does the 777 still use the pins to mount the bottom of the shock? are they really a big of a pain as i hear and what size screw would i need to replace them?

[dgrobe2112]

that is an excellent price. yes it still has the pins for the shocks. I think they are sweet.. i dremel a flat spot on them for the set screw. have no troubles getting them in and out. Dont know what size screw you need.. i saw a friend of mine use a 3mm button head or a cap head screw.

The 777 is a very nice car. you will be very happy with it.

[go1d1e]

Talking of P5's and pricing.. whats the best deal you know of on a P5? I`ve seen them going for 235..

[Lapster]

Well, I just picked mine up for 220 from PDL Racing on ebay. I ran it today and ti was awesome... really tight though.


BTW, does anyone know where I can get one of those Fioroni sliding clutches? And i'm looking at pipes... The JP-1 looks like a good one... but what is a good pipe around 65-70$?

[KanaiDude]

If you look near the top of this page i have a link to p5's on ebay, i checked his current auctions and he has 6 more listed for 219. I got mine back from RB mods today I can't wait to fire it up at the next race...

The 777 is all that I expected, raced it for the first time this weekend, very smooth, no issues really, I did blow a front retainer clip out of my shock could have been in the building. I cam in 13 out of 30 at a pretty big event some of the fastest guys around were there, I came in 4th in the b-main with only 10 seconds seperating me from the leader.

[KanaiDude]

Lapster you can get the jp-1 for that on ebay all over the place, i'm running the hardcoated one now and like it, pretty solid.

[dgrobe2112]

Congrats on the car KD.. about the pipes.. i run an 086. So, how did you feel bout the car KD?? better worse than your K3?? it will take some time to get used too.. but you will like it.. Sounds like you did pretty good with it.

[Little_Horn]

I have 2 small questions for you guys.

1 - Has ever anyone tried fioroni parts and are they good (do they break or bend, etc...)?
2 - What's the difference between "ultra racing" and "option team" parts?

Thanks.

[KanaiDude]

Little Horn I love fioroni parts they are some of the best you can't go wrong, just a little pricey. I think Ultra racing are the more expensive ones they just have a little more polish/engraving but the same hardness/quality.

DG I felt pretty good about the car, it was a pretty high traction track, once I settled in and made sure not to traction role I was fine. I found it much easier to drive over bumpy terrain, jumped better, turned better, handled better, I'm even using the stock setup for the diffs LSD/4/1 I think I'm going to leave it for my next big race in two weeks. I should open my RB mod P5 case and take a picture and post it for you guys, He told me to run mc59 hot plugs and 30 percent, wierd combo but I bet it works, he said my temps shouldn't really go over 200 and I'll have massive power...WEEEE...

[dgrobe2112]

LH.. the difference between the 2 are i beleive the Ultra series.. is the thicker ones with the silver engraving. And the Option team parts are the thinner ones. and are cheaper. There are other alternatives to the higher prices fioroni. You got King Headz, Ratzas, Racers Edge, all make great parts for these cars. King headz is going to start offering black colored anodizing for their parts soon.

Sweet, had to learn to not tractionroll.. thats awesome.. cuz i had to do the same.. hahh

[KanaiDude]

LittleHorn meganitro.com is one of the best places to buy fioroni parts and they have preorders for both colors for the 777. I'm gonna wait till next spring to upgrade my shock towers, radio tray etc. Have you seen the new fioroni motor heads on neo-buggy pretty slick. I don't think any of these good motors really need them though. It was pretty crazy running in south carolina was only 3 hours south of my local track, and the engine temps were running below 200 alot of people, very high idles and big power, very different..

[KanaiDude]

Havn't fired it up yet but looks pretty sick. :eek:

[Little_Horn]

That engine's crank shaft is REALLY sick. :eek: Looks like one of those from a 1/8 on-road engine, with that "turbo tear" (I don't know how you call it in english, so I'm guessing and doing a rough translation) and that "red thing". Those two can really speed up the engine.
Are you sure that sweet engine of yours is not going to waste??? :p It would be much better if it was in my hands :D (j/k)

[KanaiDude]

Hehe I'll be running it this comming weekend, 2 day race with a full day of practice with it on friday WOOT. After shipping charges this Mod P5 cost about 300 bucks not to shabby, I just hope it runs as good as it looks.

[Dirt Pilot]

I finished my car about 2 weeks ago, but rain kept me from getting to drive it until tonight finally. I'm having some sort of glitching problem thats stumping me right now, so I'm curious as to if anyone else has had this problem. I'm only noticing it on straightaways mainly when I'm at WOT. My failsafe kicks on and off so the car lurches going down the straightaway. It also only glitches when the motor is running. On my K2, I had this problem too, and it ended up being the brake adjuster knobs hitting the center diff plate at WOT. I made sure they didn't hit when I put this kit together. I already tried 2 different battery packs, and my spare receiver as well. Any thoughts as to what it could be? Thanks.

Jason

[dgrobe2112]

Jason, i would venture to say.. make sure there is no metal to metal contact. Also, i would be about 90% sure it is your crystal. If you replace the crystal in the car, it would fix the problem. My buddy had the same problem. If you even have the car sitting on the box, and gas it.. full throttle.. i bet the same thing will happen. So check into getting another crystal set.

Nitro engine vibrations will wear out crystals pretty quick, i have a pretty thick piece of foam under my receiver.. and also on top of my receiver to keep vibarations to a minimum

[KanaiDude]

So you don't get any glitching when your car is not running, make sure to really work the throttle and steering to make sure there isn't any binding like you said about hitting the top plate, make sure your endpoint adjustments are right so your not trying to pull the throttle open to far, the motor should not move at all when at WOT throttle, so when you are not running the motor make sure when the servo is at WOT throttle it is not pulling on the motor at all, just the carb, the endpoints need to be perfect. Another thing I have found is that a little bit of foam can go a very long way. I had a glitch in my RC10gt and my friend was like you have to put foam in the radio box, I argued with him and then after doing it my glitching was gone. Also maybe try disconnecting the fail safe and see if that helps at all, I had one melt down in my radio box once.

[dgrobe2112]

very good call KD.. i heard of Failsafes going bad.. and making it glitch as well..

[Dirt Pilot]

It's got to be metal to metal somewhere, I just haven't found it yet. I'm using a JR XS3, so I can't change crystals. Thats why I swapped recievers was to make sure that wasn't it. I don't want to disconnect the failsafe because my last glitching problem made the throttle stick and I don't want ruin my WS7 seeing as I just put a new piston sleeve and rod in it. I'll have to wait till the weekend to look at it some more though. I'm leaving for Vegas to go to the SEMA show in a few hours. Thanks for the tips guys.

[Lapster]

Could it be a bad switch? My switch went bad once this year, I bet I went through everything you are going through... just to find it was my switch.

[dgrobe2112]

hmm.. another good one.. have you thought of doing this with the car off.. not started.. take out the fail safe..and see if it still does it..

[Lapster]

Ok, I also have a problem...

The screw that holds the clutchbell and bearing in keeps backing out, I have tried everything. How do you guys put yours in and do you use any washers? If so, what size?

[dgrobe2112]

lapster... i use the screw and dome washer that came in the kit.. and the same shim amount the book calls for.. worked perfect. I will look it up tomorrow.. and give the sizes needed. Also, i just tighten the screw pretty tight, i never have problems with it backing out. have you tried a little dab of locktight?

[Lapster]

Yep, I use loctite. I used a dome washer before but it kept backing out, someone gave me a different kind of washer that seems like it will work, im going to try that. The last time this happened was last weekend, and my brand new clutch shoes go ruined because of the clucthbell comming off. All 3 have a crack right down the middle.

Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

hmm.. kinda stumped on that one.. i never had a problem with them backing out.. mainly.. cuz the motor turns counter clockwise.. the screw.. would turn clockwise in there.. i dont know.. im just rambling..

[Tucker01]

Although I've got the Kanai 3, the clutch set-up is the same. I was out on Monday with the car, and right at the end of the session (after I had stopped the car and picked it up) I noticed the clutchbell was hanging off. I'd lost the bolt, washers, and one bearing. Now I've run my car a fair bit and never had this trouble before, plus it was threadlocked! Just one of them things I suppose.

[Lapster]

uz the motor turns counter clockwise

Exactly what I thought.

[Breakin2]

What is the best engine to use for the Sp1 for around $350 or less?

[KyoshoKev]

hi fellas. i was wondering if i should change the chasis braces?

whats the reasoning for the thin braces that pivot.

cheers

[KanaiDude]

Breakin2 - Best engine for 350 or less is Ws72 300$ great mid/top end, P5 250$ great bottom/mid, there are others but I think these are two of the hottest mills right now.

KyoshoKev - some people lilke and some don't like the solid chasis braces, if you are a good driver the small amount of flex in the chassis works ok and you will probably replace the plastic ever 6 months to a year, if you are a hard basher the metal braces are good and take a solid beating without making your chassis flext enough to cause bad things to happen.

I ran my Mod P5 this weekend, ran pretty solid, I came in 3rd in the b-main with 40 buggies there this weekend, very tight racing. My only downfall was flipping in a bad spot with an old fat turnmarshal that waited a good 15 seconds as my car sat on its lid and finally flamed out, I was in the lead, and finished 1 lap down after the flame out in a 30 minute race, I know I shouldn't have crashed there still stucks though.

[dgrobe2112]

the screw size is 3mmX6mm screw.. and there is a washer on there.. is the special blue washer.. that is a 3mm head washer.. little domed piece.. pretty slick lookin..

I upgrade the chassis braces, because there will be less flex in the aluminum chassis brace.. than the stock one with the plastic ends.. If your good like Kanai, or them guys.. who dont hardly wreck.. or anything.. then you should be fine with the stock car.. but i highly reccommend the chassis braces..

Engines.. i have run both the WS7II and the P5, just as KanaiDude stated.. i like both engines.. however.. i would ahve to reccommend the P5 over any other.. smoother power band.. good power.. lots of bottom end power.. the WS7II is a monster.. super fast.. when you get it clutched and tuned right.. i dont think you can beat it.. but for price.. and performance.. the P5 is the way to go.. and PDLracing on Ebay.. has the P5 for sale for 219. sweet price.. wish i had the cash..

Sorry bout your luck KD.. that happens.. happens to us all.. some more than others.. hahah.. but.. sounds like you had a good run at it.. you liking the 777 more or less.. or what now?? since you got a few races under your belt with it??

[KyoshoKev]

HEY KANAI DUDE. whats that red thing in your crankshaft?

alos do you guys boil your wing before use? the K wing seems a bit thin and very soft.

[dgrobe2112]

Kkev.. that red thing is a filler they put in the crank. I dont know what it does, but i know alot of people who do mods do that. Basically fill the crank, kinda like what Novarossi did with the P5 once, had the filled crank.

I dont boil my wing, i dont have a wing problem, other than in the cold weather, i broke one when it was really cold outside. I have heard of pee boiling their wings to make them more flexible. But i havnet.

[Breakin2]

KanaiDude - Thanks for the advice. I think I'll be picking up the P5. That price really is good.

[dgrobe2112]

Breakin.. contact a guy called PLDracing on ebay.. he has P5's for 219 or something.. very good price..

[KanaiDude]

DG, PDL has sold around 5 motors just to other guys at my track!

I am breaking the 777 in well, 2 well finished mains, going to try and go again next weekend, at this point it starts becomming more about consistency, I can't take a month or more off and expect to run against the top dogs around here, almost every race the top 5 guys usually have sponsors, quite a few from losi, ofna, and especially Panther.

[nismo240]

Can someone explain the A, H, and L front suspension parts. I understand that the A/B inserts will adjust the roll center. What do the blocks that hold the inserts do?

nismo240

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. same here.. lots of panther sponsored drivers.. couple good full sponsored guys.. im running alot better.. and the car is getting better and better evertime on the track.. i noticed.. little changes.. to this car.. make a big difference.. like.. from 2degree in back to the 2.5.. huge difference.. tamed the car alot.. so.. trying different stuff.. and getting alot faster..

[KyoshoKev]

hey guys, is it normal for the shock oil to go inside the top bladder? my bladder is full of oil after use.

when i fill up full. and after i use, then i take the shock cap off, there is about 5mm lower,i find that the oil went up inside the bladder.

if i refill without taking the oil out of the bladder, the shaft wont fully compress. as there is too much oil. but if i dont fill it up then there will be an air pocket in there.

so what gives/

cheers

[dgrobe2112]

no.. you should not get oil in top of the bladder.. it should bleed out if it gets up there.. i think you should replace the bladders.. when you fill up the shock.. fill it up to just above the lowest thread on the body.. then get the air out.. refill if needed.. only hand tight the shock cap.. dont use any tools..

[invsible]

hey im eating up clutch shoes 2 races and new alum. shoes gone .....carbon shoes one race wasted ive tryed differnt springs what to do?????????

[dgrobe2112]

what motor.. what springs?? are you running??

[invsible]

ws72 ive used stock springs and mugen 1.1 im thinking about getting a werks clutch what do ya think about those??? or if i could find one the speed 2 clutch looks sick????????

[Toycar]

hey guys, is it normal for the shock oil to go inside the top bladder? my bladder is full of oil after use.

when i fill up full. and after i use, then i take the shock cap off, there is about 5mm lower,i find that the oil went up inside the bladder.

if i refill without taking the oil out of the bladder, the shaft wont fully compress. as there is too much oil. but if i dont fill it up then there will be an air pocket in there.

so what gives/

cheers


I get the same thing every time I check the shocks the oil is up above the shock bladder and there seems to air inside the shock. There's that air bleedeing sound when I mobe the piston through its ful range. I bleed it correctly every time making sure that there are no bubbles in the oil before putting the cap on the shocks. I did this at first with the shock fully extended and when I compressed it fully it forced the oil above the bladder. I tried with the pston at the half way point and it seemed to help stop this from happening.

[Toycar]

Another thing I did was place the bladder on top of the shock cylinder pressing it down to force out the excess shock oil then screw on the cap instead of placing the bladder inside the cap first then threading the cap on the shock cylinder.

[nismo240]

What is a good place to get option parts for the MP777 in the US? What are people upgrading on their MP777/MP777 SP1?

[AreCee]

Another thing I did was place the bladder on top of the shock cylinder pressing it down to force out the excess shock oil then screw on the cap instead of placing the bladder inside the cap first then threading the cap on the shock cylinder.
That's why you may be getting the oil above the bladder. There's a small groove halfway into the cap for the bladder to sit into, if it isn't properly installed in that groove then it will leak.

[Yogi]

King Headz (http://www.kingheadz.com/) is about the most supplied company I've seen on the net, for all Kyosho buggies.

[Breakin2]

I've heard this buggy can be skittish and unstable. Is this true?

[KanaiDude]

I've heard this buggy can be skittish and unstable. Is this true?

Only when driven by Kyosho skeptics, otherwise the car is a dream :)

KingHeadz is good for hop-ups, Meganitro.com has all the new fioroni stuff in stock, I just ordered some towers, radio tray and front steering brace, I couldn't live without the bling bling for long ...

[dgrobe2112]

haha.. yeah.. Fioroni is nice.. Kingheads is nice also.. without the Fioroni price.. Racers Edge is good also.. they are getting parts in stock also..

Skittish.. well.. not really.. what happens.. is people with the older 7.5, switch to the 777 and dont know what to do with all the steering.. and handling.. they took the best car.. 7.5.. and let it steer.. hahah.. not a big fan of the werks.. or the sliding clutch.. i like the 3 shoe.. cuz its cheap.. and every hobby shop has replacement parts..


Invisible.. first thing i can tell you.. the mugen clutch springs are junk.. the mugen 1.1's are nothing like the Kyosho.. so.. try to run Kyosho 1.1 springs.. or maybe try the Kyosho 1.0, i never like the 1.0's in my WS7II..

[invsible]

drobe.....thanks i have some kyosho 1.0 and 1.1 on the way............................................... ......on the shock blladder thing gs makes some nice ones they come in a kit 20 o-rings and 4 bladders their on their web site for $3.50a pack good price the k bladders are $12.00 for a pack of ten

[dgrobe2112]

or you can get some ofna bladders.. they are pretty good also..

[KanaiDude]

DG the winner of the entire proseries races at my track all the time, i feel special... lol pretty cool to have someone like that around though, I've been getting faster just watching his lines. Go Chris Crews Go, he bumped from the E-main to finish 4th I believe in the finals, with enough points to win it all, pretty funny East vs. West drama on Sgrid...

Invisible, I run a ws72 also and run a full kysoho clutch and "rarely" have any problems with it, shoes last a good amount of races, the 1.1 kyosho springs is where its at for high RPM motors.

[dgrobe2112]

sweet.. must be nice to have that kinda comp.. heard out in cali.. thats where all the good racers are.. wouldnt mind going out there sometime to race.. my brother is stationed there.. may take a vacation sometime..and try my luck up there once..

[invsible]

kanaidude what shoes do you run alum or carbon????

[dgrobe2112]

invis.. i ran carbon on my WS7II.. and they lasted along time.. the alum are good.. but they require alot more maintenence than the carbon shoes.. i also drilled my shoes to make them lighter.. :)

[invsible]

thanks ill try another set of carbons when i get my new springs.............

[KanaiDude]

DG so where is your brother stationed FT Bragg? You should head out this way I could definitely hook you up with a race and a pit man! There are so many tracks around here right now its crazy, with a massive indoor facility opening soon also. Hey whats your diff setup right now, I still have box LSD,4,1 and am thinking of switching back to the good old 5,7,1 for a club race this weekend to see the difference.

Invisible I like the composite shoes also, I run alluminum once in a while but you do have to clean your clutch up after every race you run with them, the composite will last you several races with no troubles at all.

[dgrobe2112]

He is in San Diego. Well.. actually.. he is in Iraq right now.. but will be back next year.. i am running LSD/5/1 right now.. to see how it feels.. i did the 5/7/1, pushed.. if you could beleive that.. my standard front diff runs 3k. I liked it better.. but currently it is LSD/5/1

If i ever make it to Cali.. i think i would be your pit beesh.. hahah.. heard the Cali guys are the good drivers.. since you guys get to race with degani, and all them on a regular basis.. lucky.. but it would be nice to see how i rank at one of the races with those guys..

Nationals next April in Harlingen, TX.. im there..

[KanaiDude]

Actually I live in NC, lots of racing going on here, Chris Crews is from VA, but they travel to NC to race alot, he's part of Vrace one of the most organized racing clubs i've seen.

[MikeWz]

Hey guys. Seriously considering a 777 kit (not the special-1). This is actually my second time considering a buggy but some stuff got in the way the first time, and it had priority so here's another shot. I prolly won't be getting it/anything 'till after x-mas, so it'll be a little while. I was just wondering what you guys think some pros and cons of this buggy are. That'd be great. Be brutally honest too, I won't be terribly upset if it's not too hot, maybe I'll get a Kanai II instead then. I dunno. 'Lemme know

[dgrobe2112]

Mike.. trust me on this.. you will regret the K2..
Only thing i know that is bad about the car.. shock towers.. upgrade.. and chassis braces.. thats all i have done to mine.. i did get universal all through it.. but thats it.. car is sweet.. turns on a dime.. handles great.. the car handles like a champ.. i could prolly turn under my gas truck in a race.. hahah..
I put universals and stuff in it.. just to do it.. cuz i got a good deal on ebay.. but back to the subject.. you will be happy with the 777.. the regular is way ahead of the 7.5 regualr.. and very close to the SP1 other than some bling parts.. it has the ball bearing steering allready.. which is a plus...

[MikeWz]

Cool, thanks. I was plannin on buying the turnbuckles and Universals shortly after anyways. I kinda gotta buy this thing piece by piece, because I need to save at least $500 for this summer, so I have to see what I can get and what I can't get right away. So far I'm thinking:
MP777 (with turnbuckles/Unis/Shock Towers)
RB Econo 3-port
Jammin J2 pipe
94358 for steering
Hitec 645 for throttle/brake

Any recommendations?

[Tucker01]

645 way too slow for throttle/steering. Try a 625, or if the budget stretches that far a 925.

The speed of your throttle/brake servo directly affects how long your car takes to stop!

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. i agree.. a 645 is too slow.. i personally run 2 94357 servos..

[MikeWz]

How's that 357 handle the turning..enough torque. I know it's a bit faster than the 358, but the 358 has a bit more torque. Not sure I could afford two of them just yet though :(

[dgrobe2112]

i had both the 357, and 358 in there.. and i like the 357 better.. it handles the steering just fine.. anything over 100oz is gonna be allright in a buggy..

[Marky]

Hi guys

Just upgraded from a K2 to a 777 for next years season :cool:
I'm gunna build her up over the winter months and keep the K2 as a back up.
My question is this, will the Fioroni braces from the K2 fit the 777 ?
I've never liked the Kyosho kit braces, and i plan to fit Fioroni ones during the build process.
I take it the Fioroni knuckles will still work on the 777 also ?
Again i've never liked the cast ally ones that Kyosho put in there kits :( , they strip to easy.
I'm slowly getting all the parts together before i start the build.


Marky

[KanaiDude]

Marky, I don't know if the fioroni braces will fit, something tells me they won't, the knuckles will fit though, meganitro.com has the best prices and shipping on fioroni stuff.

Another solid weekend with the 777, I came in 3rd (again) in the A-main. I am still liking my lsd,4,1 setup fine. I think I may have to work with my clutch a little on my modded P5, I was using 1.1 springs with it, just to much snap. I've been working on more consistent driving and letting the motor stay in the midrange when going around sweepers etc., and 1.1 springs is just to beastly, massive on/off power. I am thinking I was better off with my WS72 with 1.1 springs, at least then I had a smoother mid power band that I could let spool up and down. I'm going to try some 1.0's on my P5 this comming weekend and see how it does, if I'm still not happy with it, back to the RB...

[KanaiDude]

Oh and Marky, the RB 3-port if a nice motor but you may want to check around for P5's and Ws72's on ebay they have bottomed out on the price, you should be able to find one for 220 bucks... PDL racing on ebay he's the man...

[KanaiDude]

Well I think PDL is selling out there inventory for the winter cause there is not much left, I heard he was selling S72's for 190 bucks!!

Marky here is a link to a P5 on ebay right now from a good seller, just trying to help, good luck with the buggy!

Rex P5 for 210$ (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34062&item=5936384898&rd=1)

[Marky]

I've already sorted the engine deparment out :cool: , S7II to slip in her :D

I had a look on Meganitro, cheers for that link, i'm just waiting for a reply email on shipping costs to the UK, fingers crossed it wont be too much.
Fioroni parts for the 777 have not made it over here yet :( , and with the pound being strong against the doller at the mo, i've been doing a lot of over seas shopping ;)


Marky

[dgrobe2112]

marky.. i am positive.. the braces from your 7.5 will not work. sounds like you are having a little trouble with the p5 there KD.. me personally.. i love my P5.. that thing rips.. and at 215 at that.. but you do not need the 1.1 springs on the P5.. just too snappy.. you will love the 1.0's.. if you decide to rid yourself of that P5.. let me know..

I am going back to my standard diff in the front.. i found that the car with the LSD diff just dont like rutted rough bumpy tracks.. makes the car so twitchy.. but i should not base my opinions just yet.. i had my brakes setup wrong after i redid the center diff.. too much brake.. as soon as i touched it.. they were lockin up.. so i fixed that.. and my car felt so much better in the mud main i was in.

we got rained out.. but my main did run.. and my car came off the track at 240.. with mud everywhere.. the next morning.. when i went to take the car apart.. the car wouldnt even roll.. all the mud everywhere.. so i am doing a total rebuild.. and you are running 4k in the center.. might have to try that one.. that might tame down the front end i think..

[MikeWz]

Guys, what are you running for diff set-ups? I Hear like 5-7-3...or 7-5-3...or something like that, I can't remember. What effects do the different weight oils have in the different diffs?

[dgrobe2112]

ok.. here is what i run 3/7/1 or 5/7/1 depending on track condition.. currently.. i have the LSD/7/1 but i am gonna try LSD/5/1 and see how that works..

in the front diff...
thinner = more offpower steering into the corners
thicker = better stability going into the corners under breaking, more on power steering at corner exit..
NOTES: If oil is too thin.. steering will become inconsistant and lose forward traction and steering during acceleration out of corners

Center diff
thinner = decreases on power steering, easier to drive on rough tracks
thicker = better on power steering, car is more nervous especially with high power engines. has better acceleration, and a more all wheel drive effect (better suited for high bite smooth tracks)
NOTES: Center too thin.. you could cook the oil.. causing it to overload, ways to know.. is oil smells when you change it.

rear diff
thinner = better corner traction, and better steering into the corners
thicker = decreases rear traction while cornering, reduces wheel spin
NOTES: Nearly all racers use 1000 or light grease to get maximum rear traction.

[Breakin2]

How do you think this buggy would be for someone who hasn't raced 1/8 buggy before? Would an XB8 be easier to handle? I hear the 777 can be a bit twitchy.

[Lapster]

Well, this is my first 1/8 buggy, and from racing electric for 4 years, this buggy was awesome. Easy to work on an build. And if you have any questions at all, the guys here are awesome.

[bernouli]

Does anyone know where to pick up a .pdf copy of the manual for the MP777. The manual has not been posted on the Kyosho site yet.

Thanks

[ExtremeDuty]

Does anyone know where to pick up a .pdf copy of the manual for the MP777. The manual has not been posted on the Kyosho site yet.

Thanks

Manuals are available at Kyosho's main Japanese web site.
Ah~ don't tell me you don't know how to read Japanese? :p
J/K

Here is a hint. When you move your mouse cursor around in web page,
English description shows up at the bottom of browser.
I found Kyosho manuals this way.

[AreCee]

Great idea to find a manual and set up sheets. Only one small problem, they don't have the MP777 SP-1 manual online yet. The only one they have is for the MP777 Standard.

They do have a set up sheet used by Kanai on July 7, 2004 at the SBRT Track (?).

[dgrobe2112]

Breakin.. honestly.. i saw the Xray in action this weekend.. heard it wasnt as good as it was cracked up to be.. also. there is so much stuff you gotta change to do a setup change.. like to change the castor.. its a pain.. they were talkin setup.. sayin.. i am using the lower upper this and that is in the middle lower.. and it was all jacked up.. The 777 is a great car.. lots of aftermarket availability allready.. and is a very fast car.. it can be twitchy.. however.. i have not had that problem.. except for this weekend..

Racing this weekend in the 3rd annual turkey leg classic...

My 777 felt good.. during practice, but did feel a little wierd.. to me.. thought it was just the track.. but didnt think much of it.. well after the first heat.. i felt the rear diff was off.. or something.. changed the oil.. then.. 2nd heat.. i find out. i left a shim out of the left side of the diff.. which allowed the diff to move and lose mesh.. pulled out early in that one.. finally.. got the car right for the 3rd heat.. but the car was so weird over the bumps and under breaking.... well turns out.. i had redone the center diff.. and had the brake pads redone.. and readjusted all the brakes.. well.. the car was acutally locking up the rear brakes as soon as i touched the brake.. so.. i fixed that after the 3rd qual.. at the start of the mains.... it starts to drizzle.. and starts to come down good..and turned into a mud bath in the main.. won the main.. and bumped.. but they called the races.. but readjusted the breaks.. and it was dialed..

[Breakin2]

dgrobe - so the Xray didn't overly impress you?

[KanaiDude]

Breakin2 - I have not driven on Xb8 but here is my opinion of the car from what my friends have told me. It is a very nice car, fit and finish and parts quality is very nice, but there is a small durability issue. If you are a great driver this car will suit you just fine, but if you are like most of us and wreck every other lap then you could have some problems compared to a car like the 777 that has slightly more durable parts.

[dgrobe2112]

the car looked good.. but it was being driven by a factory driver.. the other xray out there was a sportsman.. and he wasnt too impressive with it.. i think the design of the car is good.. and all that.. i like how they are eclip less.. but i would rather have the clip there..

[ExtremeDuty]

I guess most guys jumping right into Sp. 1, but how about regular 777?
From Kyosho's US web page, I know the differences. Are there any people running regular one?
I would use it for bash (unfortunately there is no big off-road track around my town) and am not committed to spend $600 for bash car. I could get cheaper non Kyosho buggies but I have been a repeated Kyosho customer for a long time.

What I am looking for are quality, durability, and upgradeability for future racing (wonder if it's ever going to happen... ;) )
I wouldn't upgrade anything but threaded turnbukcles form Lunsford.

[AreCee]

Get the Standard MP777. The kit has all the bearings, even in the steering and comes with tires and foams. You can get the Standard for $320 to $400.

As you noticed there are not any real differences in the basic design but only in a few of the features. The upgrades that I would recommend getting are; turnbuckles (Upper arms and tie rods) and springs (Blue). You may opt for the rear universals but those aren't a major must have. Get diff lube, try 3K in the front, 5K center and 1K rear to start out.

The rest of the stuff is for fine tuning for the track like the extra roll center positions on the shock towers and the rear toe-in and anti-squat. The SP has a hard anodized chassis with a little more milling so it's a tiny bit lighter but you'd never notice it bashing. The TCD front diff is great on a high traction surface but can be a handful in rough loose dirt.

Skip the Lunsford and get the Kyosho gold upper turnbuckles and tie rods, they're the right size and will cost you less. I bought mine on ebay for about $15. However, they are more expensive if you buy from an LHS.

[dgrobe2112]

i run the regular version.. and have upgraded slowly.. and now have just about everything.. and have alot of spares as well.. and spend around 60-80 more than the price of the SP1.. you will be happy with the car...

[ExtremeDuty]

Thanks for the replies.
I knew I can't be wrong with Kyosho MP 777 :)
Only I can persuade my wife to get me one, which will be a mission impossible!

Now I just wish there were nice big off-tracks here... :(
Since I live in a metro area, only touring car is a viable option due to abundance of paved surfaces.

[Ribz]

hey guys looking to get my first 1/8, pretty much decided on the 777, ive found the standard for $350 and the SP1 for $600, do you guys think prices will drop any around christmas or new years?

Any word on the Kanai 777??

I read through this whole topic, looks like most guys are running either a NR-P5 or the RB WS7-** anybody running the the new OS engine? im going to be getting into local racing and woud like to know what you guys would suggest for a engine? I have 2 local tracks around me, one short(er) track (perris in so cal) and one longer track (hemet) so i guess i need something good all around, i am also totaly clueless on pipes, looks like jammin has some good all around stuff, but like i said im cluless about pipes..

thanx alot guys, hopefull ill be joining the club soon and happy t-day! GET IN MAH BELLY! haha

[Tucker01]

For all intents and purposes the SP1 is a 'Kanai' version.

The premium model of the Mp-7.5 range is called Kanai (Worlds Edition, 2, 3), of the original Inferno range it's called Turbo, the MP-5 range it's called Evolution II, the MP-6 range it's called International.

Yuichi Kanai designs/designed all of the Infernos.

[Lapster]

looks like jammin has some good all around stuff, but like i said im cluless about pipes..

I run a P5 and a Jammin' JP-1 right now, and it is awesome. Last weekend I drove my first WS72 it it was "different", it seemed like it lacked on the low end, and then at about half throttle, it was balls to the wall.

And from what I have heard from some guys, the OS engine makes decent piower, but doesnt last anywhere as long at the P5 or WS72.

Hey DG, did you say you have an aftermarket head on your P5? Mine has about a gallon through it and it RIPS at right around 200*, it doesnt seem normal!!!

[Marky]

Hi guys

Building up my 777 (SP1) as we speak, upgraded from my K2
I seem to have incountered a wee little issuse tho :(
I have some binding in the bell crank and cant for the life of me work out why its happening :confused:

The moment i put the top plate on it binds, as far as i can make out when you move the steering it is moving up a tiny bit on the posts, this in turn is rubbing on the underneath of the top plate.
Other than shimming it out, which i shouldn't have to do with a Kyosho :p , have you guys got any suggestions ??


Marky

[AreCee]

WooHoo!!!!

Got the Trip7 out on the track today and all I can say is "WOW". It's a standard with turnbuckles and blue springs added and it handles great. Running 5/7/1 and shocks 50/40 fr/r with stock molded pistons.

The track is a high traction clay track and I'm using Pro-Line Road Rage tires, they give all the traction I can use and even traction rolled a few times. Best $400 I ever spent on a buggie.

[Breakin2]

I'm picking up some optional stuff from Tower before their sale ends. What springs, extra parts, etc. should I get?

[escapmp]

hey i jus picked up my 777 today will be here in a week or so can i run a motor like the mach .26 I just race for fun on the weekends.

[KanaiDude]

I dunno about the mach.26 it will probably be fine, my friend runs a mayhem with a .26 and he's great with it.

We had a sunday race yesterday, started at 2pm and finished at 9, got home at midnight, and now i'm here at work at 7am yuck!!! I made the big show, I practiced fine for a few minutes before the main, they have a killer starting gate, forks that all hold the car and then drop at one time. I started the main and within a few seconds my m8 started acting up on me, my steering wheel would hardly turn. I raced like a few laps then started jaming the hell out of the wheel LOLOL, I came in 9th and by the end of the race my steering wheel almost fell off the controller, really not sure what I'm going to do about that yet!! At least I made the big show, I think I'm shelving my p5 for a few races, just to much power, especially modded all I do is touch the trigger and I'm luanching off jumps, the WS72 I think fits my driving style much better until I can learn better control, i'm keeping my p5 though so DG hands off! Hope you guys faired better then me, no where I can buy a cheap M8?

[invsible]

hey the 05 rc pro series dates are up whos going im doin the west coast first one is in april..........................

[KanaiDude]

Damn big show is out in Cali damn damn, I was really going to make a go at this next year but we have 2 races in FL, and 2 closer to home within 5 hours. Is not going to be easy if I want to do well, mucho traveling, I guess thats what some of the gripe was about this year is not all the west coast drivers participated because of the FL final... I am hoping that in 06 the final will be in my back yard in Charlotte NC at the Farm2. The Farm2 was recently built and can acomodate 15 cars per heat, massive track with different sections he can close off if neccessary, truly world class and thats exactly what hes shooting for is a Worlds sometime in the near future...

[Marky]

Hi guys

Building up my 777 (SP1) as we speak, upgraded from my K2
I seem to have incountered a wee little issuse tho :(
I have some binding in the bell crank and cant for the life of me work out why its happening :confused:

The moment i put the top plate on it binds, as far as i can make out when you move the steering it is moving up a tiny bit on the posts, this in turn is rubbing on the underneath of the top plate.
Other than shimming it out, which i shouldn't have to do with a Kyosho :p , have you guys got any suggestions ??


Marky

Guess no one had this issue then :rolleyes:

Marky

[KanaiDude]

Marky sorry we have been bantering... I haven't heard of this one yet, does it bind with nothing attached to it, no linkage attached? You say it is rubbing under the top plate I am assuming it is stock. You should not have to shim this as far as I know, anyway could you post a pic and give us a better idea of whats happening?

[AreCee]

Mine is as free moving as possible and doesn't even come close to the top plate. It sits just above the front drive shaft. There is some up and down play but it doesn't affect the steering. I did have a steering pin come out but I forgot to put a little drop of blue loctite in the 3mm flanged nut.

Did you use loctite on the steering pins or the screws holding the top plate? If you did then you may have gotten some on the bushing, bearings or the bell crank causing it to bind. Put the loctite in the nuts not the screws to prevent them from vibrating off.

[Marky]

Marky sorry we have been bantering... I haven't heard of this one yet, does it bind with nothing attached to it, no linkage attached? You say it is rubbing under the top plate I am assuming it is stock. You should not have to shim this as far as I know, anyway could you post a pic and give us a better idea of whats happening?

Ah you guys are out there :p

I'll take a pic 2morow (i'm in the UK and its very late, plus i've had a few beers :D )
Its nothing to do with thread lock, you dont need to use TL on the top plate mounting, and I ditch the "flanged" nuts for nylocks.
Its like the "plastic" part of the steering posts is rubbing on the top plate, with the top plate off the steering is silky smooth, but as soon as i crank down on the top plate it binds :(
I've shimed it a little and it's helped, but not a great deal.
I cant figure out why the posts are lifting so much, my K2 was fine during the build and even when it's cake in mud !!
My freinds K3 that i built was fine too...............i'm stumped and a little angry to be honest, this is a Kyosho after all, and they build up so nicley, well normally they do :confused:

Marky

[AreCee]

Its like the "plastic" part of the steering posts is rubbing on the top plate, with the top plate off the steering is silky smooth, but as soon as i crank down on the top plate it binds
MarkyNow I'm confused because the plastic arms are no where near the top plate, in fact they're about 1/2 inch below the plate.

Now don't get upset but since you've built a K2 and a K3 perhaps you installed the servo saver upside down. On the Trip7 the adjusting screw is at the top of the servo saver.

[Little_Horn]

Hello guys.
I've been away for awhile, but I'm back now... :D

My LHS guy built a mp777 sp1 with the K-factory pins. That steering post rubing thing happened to him, but because one of the pin's nut was binding the steering post. What he did was to scuff a little plastic with an x-acto, and everything was fine.
So, check if one of the pins (the ones that old the lower front arms) is binding the steering pole.

Hope this helps.

And as promissed, here are some photos from my mp777 (standard version).
This is my first body. It's a simple 2 color job, with hand cut masks (some left over vinil and masking tape) from *******, with a temp. tatto dragon on the roof (ghost efect).
I will get some Fioroni towers, blue springs, etc... but I already have the new C-Hubs with 3 holes. ;)

Here are 2 pictures. I'll post everyone of them (6 in total) in the pictures forum later.
Can you see the dragon on the roof? ;)
http://www.applepics.com/6/userfiles/41a9ab670b2fc.jpg
http://www.applepics.com/6/userfiles/41a9ab813c03c.jpg

If you want to see some naked buggy pictures, just ask! :D

[KanaiDude]

Nice job I think I like the white and gunmetal wheels the most, i've got the orange and blue ones to. Whats up with the TM stickers you have a G4? I've got one to with every k-factory part and evo2 motor, tm pipe, sweet ride. What kind of motor is that a s5 or something, looks good! virgin buggies are so nice lookin must clean mine before this weekend it's got some wicked dirt on it...

[Little_Horn]

Thanks.
I don't have a G4. I have a Team Magic X5 universal starter box and one of those Team Magic plastic fuel dispensers.
The engine is an RB Sport (a little better than the Eco and a little worst than the S5).
But dont' worry, I'm planning to buy later a RB WS7 II and fuel it with some Concept fuel at 33% nitro (from RB also). :D Some ppl complain about a weak bottom end? Not anymore! This fuel was made by RB on purpose for TT engines. ;)
Massive amounts of power by RB for RB. hehehe :)
One more thing, my buggy isn't exactly a virgin... It wasn't used (yet) on a real track, but it was bashed some times. I just like to keep it perfectly clean, that's all.

[invsible]

hey do any of you have any info on the silverstate race i guess its in march dates??? web address??? any thing???????????????thanks

[Little_Horn]

Thanks.
I don't have a G4. I have a Team Magic X5 universal starter box and one of those Team Magic plastic fuel dispensers.
The engine is an RB Sport (a little better than the Eco and a little worst than the S5).
But dont' worry, I'm planning to buy later a RB WS7 II and fuel it with some Concept fuel at 33% nitro (from RB also). :D Some ppl complain about a weak bottom end? Not anymore! This fuel was made by RB on purpose for TT engines. ;)
Massive amounts of power by RB for RB. hehehe :)
One more thing, my buggy isn't exactly a virgin... It wasn't used (yet) on a real track, but it was bashed some times. I just like to keep it perfectly clean, that's all.

Sorry ppl but I made a mistake! :confused:
The fuel I talked about is from Meccamo (not Concept, has I told you before).
It is known as Mecafuel 1/3. 1/3 because one third (33,333...%) of it's content is nitromethane. The fuel changes color once you put it on the car and the engine is working (I think from orange to green). :eek: :D

[dgrobe2112]

Well, all these post on here.. and i have not no emails sayin there was a reply.. im sorry fellas, now.. the steering issue.. is your car binding at full droop.. cuz mine does as well.. if you pick up the front of the car where the front arms are at full droop.. then the steering binds a little.. but not where you talkin about.. my only idea that popped into my head.. is.. maybe your servo saver is in upside down.. remember on the 777, the screw that tightens the servo saver is on top now.. not on bottom like the 7.5.

also, some of you guys that have gotten a new car.. i would like to get rid of some parts, i got KHZ shock towers, and chassis braces i would like to get rid of, i am selling all 4 pieces for 60 bux. If anyone is interested, let me know, there is a good reason for selling these, i will explain in an email.

dgrobe2112@netzero.com

KD, long time no speak, howz things man..

[dgrobe2112]

Little horn.. where you been man.. thougth maybe that side of the world fell off or something.. haah.. car looks good.. check out r c p i c s for pics of mine..

www.******.net/members/dannyg

[AreCee]

Well, all these post on here.. and i have not no emails sayin there was a reply.. im sorry fellas, now.. the steering issue.. is your car binding at full droop.. cuz mine does as well.. if you pick up the front of the car where the front arms are at full droop.. then the steering binds a little.. but not where you talkin about.. my only idea that popped into my head.. is.. maybe your servo saver is in upside down.. remember on the 777, the screw that tightens the servo saver is on top now.. not on bottom like the 7.5.

..
As I suggested about five posts up.

This is my "Standard" MP 777

[Little_Horn]

Nice blue and yellow combination. ;)

[Little_Horn]

DG, I saw your car before. It's very good. ;)

[chevy_94]

hey arecee did the car go together good? was the instructions very good and detailed? and how is the performance as in handling and cornering? what would be a good motor to go with i was thinkin the rb WS7II.

[dgrobe2112]

chevy.. do you mind if i chime in on this??

My experience with the car.. went together very easy, no probs or needing to cut, or dremel, or anything to get it together. Instructions were very easy to follow..
the performance of this car, handling wise is off the hook, turns on a dime.. and is kinda twitchy.. but once you get the hang of it.. the setup of the car is dialed.. right out of the book..

the motor i reccommend is the P5. I had a WS7II engine, and had great power, more top end than my P5, but just wasnt as smooth as in the low and mid as the P5 is.

[chevy_94]

any help is appreciated as you know on these boards.who makes the P5 im not to familiar with engines. thats good to know it went together easy. my hobby shop has the mp777 for 389.99 is that a good deal?

[Little_Horn]

I had a WS7II engine, and had great power, more top end than my P5, but just wasnt as smooth as in the low and mid as the P5 is.

DG, allow me to desagree. I really don't have the RB WS7II, but I know ppl that run it. They all say that the WS7II has a very smooth and linear power band. Because of this, many ppl in my country don't like the WS7II (not much power in the low end, they say). But it's without a doubt an excellent engine. You just have to "cluch" it right. If I had this one, I would use carbon cluch shoes with 1.1 springs. This engine is best at high RPMs and because of that the cluch has to engage a little later.

I was talking with my LHS guy about RB engines and I thought the WS7II was the top of the line. But it's not, I was wrong! The top of the line now is the C5-B (the engine that the RB drivers used in the worlds). In case you doubt my words, please go to http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php?part=Products&AR_Stat04=RB%20CONCEPT&GProduit=01005-B and see it for yourselves. It has 5+2 intake ports and 3 exaust ports. This beast it hard to tame, because it is very brute. My LHS guy told me that this engine, with the Fioroni cluch, really is the thing to beat. It's a little more expensive than the WS7II, but it really rocks.
I'm really considering to buy one of these (with the fioroni clutch) or a more cheap alternative if I don't have the money (Sirio Kanai II).
So, I'm really surprised that you guys only talk about the WS7II and don't talk about the C5-B!
If any of you is considering an engine, give this one a chance. It uses a 63 pipe, with a short manyfold (at least it's shorter than the WS7II). But it has pure, raw, power. It might be hard to control. You have been warned! :eek: :D :D :D

[dgrobe2112]

I never said the WS7ii is not an excelletn motor, and your right.. the best clutch setup i had was carbon shoes with 1.1 springs, the motor did lack a little on the bottom, however, the top end was awesome, i like the motor, on big high speed tracks, but the majority of the tracks i run one are big, with alot of technical parts, that i felt i was losing in the tight sections

389.99 is a good price for the car, my LHS has them for 399.99, you will be very pleased with this car

[KanaiDude]

Anybody know what the pros are running for diff setups? are they running stock or LSD up front, thinking of switching back to standard 5,7,1 but would really like to know what tebo, degani etc. are running...

I ran my mod again this weekend I just couldn't resist, it would have won me the race if my pit guy hadn't thrown my car down to quick without letting it clear out, 15 mins in I was a whole lap up and running so smoothly, P5 mod power= blip blip FLYING HIGH, the only downfall is it has eaten a pair of kyosho composite shoes in 2 races OMG. I keep hearing nothing but good things about Rick Brake at RBmods, he modded my P5 and I really can tell a huge difference it just keeps getting faster.

[KanaiDude]

Are you guys running full droop? like moving the shocks to the lowest holes so that your arms hit the chassis stops?

[dgrobe2112]

KD.. your boy came through for ya.. got your setups.. i am running my shocks in the rear in the lower set of holes on the top of the tower.. and in the outside hole in the rear arm. I am gonna try the inside hole this weekend.. yes i run full droop because it keeps the rear of the car planted more..
BTW.. i finally got done with the aluminum shoes in my car.. and bout some composite shoes.. and they lasted just about as long as yours did.. done after 1 race night. couldnt beleive it. I then found out Mugen has some really nice alum shoes.. i put those in.. and after the weekend.. cant hardly tell any wear on them.. so look for Mugen aluminum shoes.. i will see if i can find the part number for you if you want...

[dgrobe2112]

Oh.. i guess the setups That DEGANI and PAVIDIS are using.. here you go..

here are Greg Degani and Mark Pavidis's setups they
posted here:

Response 5574:
Date: Mon, Oct 4, 2004 (23:46)
From: greg degani (gregdeg)

Got Back from Hemet car worked really well on Saterday, did lots of
testing with different set-ups. Finished third and almost won it but
crashed at the end..I had gotted lapped 7 minutes into the 15 minute
main by chad but i managed to put in fast laps in the last 7 minutes
and un-lapped myself and almost one but i blew it with 45 seconds
left..anyway Found a decent set-up for bumpy tracks. Diff
5000,7000,1000 Front oil 60wt 1.4 rear oil 35 wt 1.4 Front upper link
long, "High block""A" Middle steering hole on steering link. Shocks
inside on arm,inside on tower 14 mm ride hight clips front.
Rear end.. Shocks inside hole arm Second hole from inside on tower, Use
the upper shock holes on the tower. 3 degree toe in,2 degree antisquat.
Rear hubs back, use bottom hole hinge pin on hubs. 17 mm ride-hight
clips. Full travel front and rear(in the front yur travel is limited by
the arms hitting the chassie...and in the rear your travel is limited
by the shocks in the top holes in the tower) So no need to mess with
your droop screws..Hope that covers it..

Response 5575:
Date: Mon, Oct 4, 2004 (23:48)
From: greg degani (gregdeg)

Oh and i forgot That set-up is for like 80 degree weather, if you race
where it is really cold like 65 and below reduce your shock oil to like
50wt front and 25-30 rear...

Mark Pavidis - 777 settup
front
60w oil (70w if hot out)
1.4 piston
blue spring
inside hole in front tower
inside hole for shock on arm
22 caster block
Low A block
std sway bar
ride height front bones just above level
5000 diff oil
steering in middle hole in rack
droop depends on track slightly limited

Center
48 tooth spur
13 clutch bell
3 shoe clutch 1.0 springs
7000

Rear
35 w oil
std rear sway bar
2 deg anti squat
3 deg toe
hubs back
camber link long and in lower hole in tower
2nd to inside hole in tower
inside hole in arm for the shock
blue springs
bones level if bumpy just above level
1000

[KanaiDude]

Thanks for all the info as usual DG... I'll look for some Mugen shoes as well, I think I may have to go all alluminum now, I've still got my ws72 and I bet that does well with alluminum shoes also, having a little more bottom end snap, but I'm sort of addicted to this mod P5 right now so the RB will have to wait till next season...

[KanaiDude]

Do you guys have a preference when it comes to airtronics servos, I was going to order 2 new ones, a ERG-VR 125 oz. for throttle, and a ERG-VB 200 oz. for steering. Does anyone have the heat sinks? I'm also getting a synth backlit M8 WooT! Any comments about the servos would be appreciated, I know some people run 2 high speed VR's instead of a VB on steering? DG found the mugen shoes on tower gonna try a set out thanks, and i guess the kyosho MEDIUM springs (sort of blue) are actually 1.0's? there is no real part number that says 1.0's...

[dgrobe2112]

no.. the blue color is not 1.0, they are .95 here are the part numbers you need

Kyosho 1.1 = IFW53H
Kyosho 1.0 = IFW53
Kyosho .95 = IFW53M
Kyosho .90 = IFW53S

also.. just for your info.. you will not be able to use the heat sink in your mp777 for your airtronics servos. The radio tray is too low. I had to mill my chassis to get them to fit without hitting the chassis. And this only happens with Airtronics though. So, i dont know if i would get the VR servos with the heat sink.

Me, i personally run the 94357 which is the 125oz servos in steering and throttle. I tried the 358 (200oz) just didnt like the speed of that servo, i was gonna put it on steering, but i took it off and traded it in on a 357. I have no problem with the 357 turning the wheels at all. and it is super fast response time. .07 speed is awesome, compared to the 358 which has a .10 speed.

[KanaiDude]

Thanks for the advice, I think I will get another 357 I am already using one for steering, and a futaba for throttle that I get worried about when I need more breaking, I stripped one out last week and had a backup but I want 2 airtronics in there they seem more reliable and stronger. DG even with the 357 and no heat sink on steering I still have to shim my radio post with 2 washers, I wish they would have milled that out to start, futaba is the only thing that will fit in there, there servos are reallly short.

[dgrobe2112]

KD, yeah.. mine wouldnt fit either, like i said.. i milled my chassis to cut weight and all that. instead of using washers, you should use the little rubber things that will space it up enough. also, on throttle.. i bought a metal gear to go in the bottom, cuz i did strip the plastic gear in the throttle of my 357. They do have a metal replacement gear for there too.

[KanaiDude]

So I was rebuilding last night, and I was mistaken I have a 358 on steering, I just bought a new 357, I was thinking of using the 358 on throttle and the 357 on steering, what would you do if you had those 2 servos besides buying another 357? Where can I get the metal gears at? Inspected my motor last night, wow it still looks brand new, if you check out neo-buggy forums RBmods is getting the same respect as AndyMac.

LittleHorn - The C5 is a nice mill, Chris Crews (now factory Xray driver) our Local hot shoe runs one, he is very consistent with it, its got great midrange power, but the clutch set up is a little tough, 9ports lacks the bottom end that most of us "enjoy" driving. I have heard awesome things about modded C5's, Rbmods and Rody modded C5's will blow the doors off just about anything. My modded p5 though is wicked fast I really don't see any need any more power right now, also the C5 power band is so large it's just not suited for every type of driver, if you've got an extra 400 bucks I'd be happy to try one though!

[dgrobe2112]

KD, well.. i dont know.. i would prolly put the 358 on throttle.. cuz i actlually have the speed backed off my throttle servo some.. to help with the awesome low power of the P5. So, i would put the slower servo in the throttle.

[Little_Horn]

KD, I was talking about the new C5 (C5-B). Don't know if you were talking about the same thing. That thing really is a beast!
Now about servos. I have a Futaba S9402 in my steering (111 oz, 0.10 sec). It also has a plastic gear. The rest is all metal gears. It really is preferable to replace a plastic gear than "fry" the servo´s motor and electronics. So, I would leave the plastic gear in there. The LHS guy told me to unscrew the servo-saver almost to the top, so the saver enters relatively easy, but still has some strength. This way, the plastic gear will never break. I still have to test it, to see if I need to screw the saver in a little more, or leave it as it is right now.
About your 357 (125 oz, 0.07 sec) and 358 (200 oz, 0.10)... I think you should leave the 358 on steering, because it's stronger. In more extreme situation, a stronger servo can get you out of trouble. Besides, I don't think you will feel much difference between 0.7 and 0.10 secs. Both are really fast. The 358 is stronger so, I would use it on the steering. The 357 is perfectly capable os locking the brakes, easilly.
I will buy a relatively cheap Futaba digital servo for my throtle/brake (I think it's the S3050 with 90.2 oz, 0.16 sec). Right now, I'm still using a standard hightec servo on my throtle. After sanding the brake pads, that thing brakes! So, if you start to notice some fading in the brakes, just sand the pads a little and their better than new (with very thin sand paper). You probably now this already, but it never hurts to remind.

[KanaiDude]

I really don't like the futaba servos to much, i'm sticking with airtronics from now on, they just seem more durable reliable stronger etc. etc. I have had many of futaba servos and they just seem to wear down to quicly. I think your right DG i'm going to put the 358 on throttle, it can actually be stripped just as easy as the steering if not easier IMO, pluse your right don't need all the speed with a mod P5 LOL, all in all it really doesn't matter which one I use they are both awesome servos, thanks though.!

[KanaiDude]

Just bought some craddock brakes see how they do, I've been having some braking problems lately. Have you guys heard of the racers edge/treadz 50% sponsorship deal, i'm highly considering getting a resume together and trying that out, I hear it's not incredibly hard to get in if you have a few years of experience, some skill, and good internet savy to help others out.

[AreCee]

Integy ran a program like that for years. You became a "team" driver and that entitled you to a discount for their stuff, only problem was that everyone who applied became a "team" driver. I'm sure that Racer's Edge is doing the same marketing promotion to increase sales.

[KanaiDude]

I know of the integy sponsorship and it's a bit more then that, and the quality of the parts is better, it's not much but something's better then nothing in this high priced hobby...