Inferno MP777

[rcabj]

hello....sorry if this question has been ask b4...but no time to run through every posting....anyway what is the major differences between these 2 buggies

and i notice there is 3 version of these 777....what r the differences..

also is the normal 777 equal to the normal 7.5 or what....thanks.... :D

[Little_Horn]

There are only 2 versions of the mp777: the standard and the special 1.
The standard mp777 is better equipped than the mp 7.5 was. So, it stands somewhere between the mp 7.5 and the kanais, comparatively speaking.
The special 1, is comparable to the kanais.

[Little_Horn]

I almost forgot to talk about the differences between the standard and special 1.
The special 1 has better shocks (teflon coated, blue springs), universals all around (the standard has universals in the front only), lightweight crown gear, stronger chassis, stronger shock towers, easy to tune turnbuckles (I think that's how you call them), lightweight disk brakes, lightweight (ventilated) motor mounts, front LSD, and some bling bling.
But you can check it for yourself in: Kyosho Japan (http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_pagecontent?lp=ja_en&trurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.kyosho.co.jp%2fweb%2fproduc ts%2fcar_bike%2fbuggy%2finferno_mp777%2fmp777sp%2f mp777sp-j.html)

[AreCee]

The third version rcabj was referring to is listed on the Kyosho-Japan site which is a 777 Special-1 with a Sirio Kanai engine/exhaust included in the box.

Little Horn, you got most of the differences correct but the brake disks are machined rather than stamped (they weigh about the same), the motor mounts are machined not cast (stronger, lighter and has fins to aid cooling), the chassis is hard anodized for better scratch resistance but not necessarily stronger (the color of the standard is nicer), the crown gears are the same but the spur gear is drilled out to make it a little lighter, and the shock pistons are machined not molded.

[KanaiDude]

You guys seen the new K-factory motor mount cooler on Neo-buggy, talk about trick looking!

[dgrobe2112]

KD... yeah.. i seen it.. however.. i dont see how it will benefit the engine. for one thing.. its more weight added to the car, and you dont get any air flow to that area of the car to aid in cooling. if it lowered the motor.. maybe.. but it dont.. also, racers edge has a new milled chassis for the 777. supposed to be trick. i am thinkin of getting one of those. waiting to see some pics of it.

[KanaiDude]

I've been waiting for a milled chassis, please post a link the first you see it. You know I like the BLING, only thought I had was it helped to dissapate the heat from the bottom of the block, but I would have to see proof and I doubt that will happen, looks cool though!

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. looks nice.. well.. Fioroni has a milled chassis, not sure how much it is, i think it is a little more expensive, also.. the fironi chassis, is a dark blue, to match the black parts of the fioroni parts, and also to match the blue.

[dgrobe2112]

http://www.gsracing.com/web/page.asp?pgs=product&catid=37&id=2061

[KanaiDude]

you had to go and say the fioroni word, I was just on meganitro.com and they have it for 98.50 may have to order that now that i've seen a good picture and no the servos are milled out, getting tired of shimming my servo tray, and am to lazy to give my chassis to my friend to mill it...

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. but the racers edge chassis will match your current chassis color and everything, i like it. Fioroni is a little pricey.

Racers edge chassis 89.99 and the hard anodized.

[rcabj]

There are only 2 versions of the mp777: the standard and the special 1.
The standard mp777 is better equipped than the mp 7.5 was. So, it stands somewhere between the mp 7.5 and the kanais, comparatively speaking.
The special 1, is comparable to the kanais.

so comparatively speaking the kanai 1/2 is better equip than the regular mp777....right

aceree and little horn thanks to the reply guys ...

[dgrobe2112]

you cant really say that, maybe just a little better equiped, but not much.. things like blue radio post, and blue wing spacers, stuff like that.. then yeah.. those bling items. However, the MP777 regular is so much more advanced thank the Kanai 1, 2, or 3 in terms of handling, that i would say the regular is better. and at the cost of a new one.. 319 shipped, you cant go wrong.

[AreCee]

I agree. I showed up at the track with my "standard" plus blue springs, turnbuckles and rear uni and freaked out the "special 1" guys because they couldn't believe the value you get and what you get for it. For about $420 I have essentially a Special 1. No one uses the TCD at our short blue groove track so they needed to spend additional $ to buy a regular diff.

BTW, most liked the color of the stock chassis over the SP1.

[dgrobe2112]

ditto.. cuz my standard chassis looks just like my friends SP1 chassis on the bottom.. hahah.. you get bearing steering, 3.5mm shock shafts.. the car is excellent deal for the price.

[Little_Horn]

Without a doubt, the standard mp777 has excellent value for it's money! Who would have thought a year ago that a Kyosho Inferno would be this "cheap" and good?

[KENCHOCO2]

I Was Thinking Of Getting This Buggy,,,,,choco

[Little_Horn]

ditto.. cuz my standard chassis looks just like my friends SP1 chassis on the bottom.. hahah.. you get bearing steering, 3.5mm shock shafts.. the car is excellent deal for the price.

3.5 mm Shock shafts?
The mp777 shock shafts have 4 mm, don't they? :confused:

[AreCee]

3.5 mm Shock shafts?
The mp777 shock shafts have 4 mm, don't they? :confused:No, they're 3.5mm in both versions. It's the rear shock bodies that are 4mm longer to allow the rear arms more travel. Just read the specs and the dozen or so reviews in all the magazines but they mostly reviewed the SP and skipped over the Standard.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. mosty review the high dollar car. and i understand that.. but leave it to us.. to give the review.. hahah

[AreCee]

yeah.. mosty review the high dollar car. and i understand that.. but leave it to us.. to give the review.. hahahAnd the sheep will follow the leader.

I like the mp777 standard but unfortunately it hasn't magically made me a better driver, bummer. The only three options that can and will improve my driving are practice, practice and practice.

[Quimmer]

very true... practice is the mother of all wins! ;)

[Michel]

are you still getting so much fu out of it after 6 months
i do up
please tell me more

[chevy_94]

is the rb C5 race legal? anyone think that would be a good engine to race with?

[Little_Horn]

The C5-B was used in the worlds, so it's legal. The C5-B is the top of the line RB engine. Just make sure you buy the new B version. This version has the RB logo "printed" on top of the colling head.

I was also advised to use the Fioroni turbo sliding clutch with black shoes (http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/clutch/fioroni/Turbo-Clutch.html) to help tame the beast. This thing has alot of power and you need to have a great control over it. This is just what I heard, but comes from a very reliable source.

[dgrobe2112]

ditto.. the C5 is a monster. huge power everywhere. I seen one of these things run, and 1 word comes to mind.. DANG!!! that thing was stupid fast..

[KanaiDude]

Ordered the fioroni chassis, I already bought the radio tray, front brace and shock toweres so if figured Why Not! Anybody have any good sources for O'donnell heads man they are hard to get a hold of. Think I'm going to run my RB this weekend, diversity is the spice of life!

C5 is stupid fast wouldn't mind trying one of those out, do they have a Rody modd version that would be cool to have, but I'm already broke maybe late next year i'll buy a new mill.

[invsible]

who has the lowest priced alum. steering knuckles

[chevy_94]

how long will it last? as in gallons of fuel.

[chevy_94]

where can i find it? sorry i couldn't edit.

[KanaiDude]

Invisible, I would say KingHeadz or RacersEdge would be the best and cheapest, then there are fioroni and hardcore racing a little more expensive, all of them are the same quality.

Chevy, RB's last and last if you take good care of them temp wize, 5-6 gallons or more, as far as where to find one I am not sure, You could contact PDL racing on ebay and see if they can get you one I know they had the standard C5 before they updated it.

[chevy_94]

thanx kanai thats what ill do. its prolly gonna cost a pretty penny but if it puts me in the winners circle that will make up for it hopefully. speakin of that do you usually win alot of moolah at r/c events?

[invsible]

you can get a c5 from www.ace-hobbies.com call them 1 800 383 2657


what about the integy knuckles any good their only $30.00

[dgrobe2112]

at rc events, you dont win money. Unless its a big money race and you will know how much you win. but at big events like RCPro, or events such as that, mainly trophies, or plaques. At your local club race, it will be probably hobby bux.

I had Racers Edge knuckles on my Kanai, and they never messed up. never stripped, never broke. www.racers-edge.com

[chevy_94]

you don't win money. it looks like i won't be racing the buggy now just get the mp777 and have a real nice basher.

[dgrobe2112]

well.. you win store credit. At big races, there isnt much money to win, unless its a jackpot race. then you can win some money, but thats about it.

[KanaiDude]

Invisible - I would pass on the integy stuff, it's considered 2nd best to everything in the RC industry, pay a little extra for some good ones.

It would be fun if there were more money races, but alot of guys seem to think us Nitro junkies can't handle it and get to pumped up and start swearing and what not. Our local track owner will run a small money race for us once in a while, I won the last one and got 25 bucks. There was a 5000 dollar race here this year in VA, 100 dollar entry fee and limited to 100 racers, but when something like that pops up you get people traveling from all over, and your chances are well, pretty bad unless you been racing for 5 years and can go head to head with the fastest guys in your state and others that will be there. Chris Crews Pro series winner won that race after bumping 3 mains, just like in the pro series when he bumped from the E to the A and finished 4th in the final but won the overall, that dude rises to the occasion every time is amazing, oh and he runs nothing but RB C5's.

[chevy_94]

25 bux would only get a gallon of fuel. i don't think its worth but then again now i will have to do some thinkin on that.

[dgrobe2112]

hahah.. this is a hobby. Not to make money, most of us do it for the competition level, and for the joy of the hobby. I dont expect to make any money racing. We had a big money race here once, and it turned out pretty good, but we got guys from Cali to come race, lot of sponsored guys showed up. A main.. nothing but sponsored drivers.

[KanaiDude]

In all actuality if you were to add up how much you have spent on your car, tires, controller, motors, fuel, traveling, entry fees and divide by the number of races you go to a year its a little frightening how much a single race day might cost. Theres not much point in going all out on equipment unless you intend to race at least once or twice a month.

[chevy_94]

yeah i just got out of go-cart racing hoping this (r/c) was gonna be cheaper but it's not much. so any way i go any hobby i go to its expensive and if it has "racing" in something then its expensive. i don't care if you raced mopeds its still expensive. why would some want to do that i don't know but oh well.
i had 100 posts and now im at 93 ***?

[KanaiDude]

So what is the gereral consesus on Cooling Heads, there is a O'donnell gun metal gray one on ebay with waffle cut top for 70 bucks, those things are so hard to come by but I just couldn't bring myself to do it. What kind of temps are you running your P5 DG? You think they help motors run more efficiently over time or what? I think I'm going to stick to my stock heads on my p5 and RB, but you do see almost all the pros running O'donnell heads, is it like a conspiracy or something.

[dgrobe2112]

hahah.. i agree there KD, all the pros are running them. Also, with it getting cold out, you dont need a cooling head. But during the summer, i think they would be allright. If you want to get a Odonnel head, or a NOCER head is nice too. go to www.racers-edge.com they have both brands, the Odonnel head is 69 and the Nocer head is 79 both are great, Nocer head has a enscribing on the head that says racers edge on it..

I am thinking of getting one.. my temps right now on my P5 are in the 240 range. But you gotta remember, just cuz yoour temps go down, you can lean the motor to get the temps back up, leaning the motor, also loses lubricant. So your oil and stuff will be less, and you are still running hot. if you run 240 with stock head, then put a Odonnel head on it.. drops the temps say.. 30, so now your running 210 with the odonnel. but lean the motor to get the temps back up to 240, you are losing lubricants. see what im sayin.. kinda hard to explain.

www.racers-edge.com go to nitro accessories

[dgrobe2112]

http://www.racers-edge.com/store/files/t_23549.jpg

thats the nocer head..

[KanaiDude]

That head is pretty sweet looking, I do like the odonnell waffle cut head to though. I totally understand alot of people get jaded by a nice cooling head and think they can run faster, I think it's more a matter of running more efficiently, I had a RZ motor when I first started with a nice head on it, well I leaned that puppy out and snapped the conrod. You have to be very aware of how the motor feels rather then the temps when running a cooling head. Thanks for the input, I think I'm going to wait till spring, I think the P5 can use a head more then the RB, the P5 head just seems a touch to small.

[KanaiDude]

Wow I didn't know there websight had gotten so extensive. Have you ordered from them before I take it? Is everything listed in stock, have they ever emailed you after an order and said sorry its out of stock, It's nearly impossible to find an O'donnell blue head these days I might have to order from there this spring, to bad they don't have a RB head. I haven't decided if I like my mod motor that much, am probably going to run my RB for a while again, my mod has flamed out on me twice both in race breaking situations, I emailed rbmods though it might just be the cold weather and I hear his mods are a little difficult until a good 2 gallons has been run through them, see what suggestions he has for me.

[dgrobe2112]

they have RB heads. for the S7 engine. i have ordered from them a couple times.. Everything i have ordered has been in stock.. i receive an email saying when the order was processed, and when it shipped. Also, they will tell you the items are not in stock, or whatever.

Check your PM

[KyoshoKev]

hi guys. so whats the verdict on the 777. is it a better racer compared to the k3?

[wyl03]

kyoshokev - you KNOW it is better than K3 :D

[dgrobe2112]

Kkev.. it is alot better than my 7.5, in all areas, handles much better, steers 5000000000000 times better than my 7.5 ever even thought of steering. hahah.. so.. i say the verdict is.. yes.. much better

[glassdoctor]

So there are not really many things on the SP1 that I would care about. It's all cool stuff, but's it looks like the standard 777 is not bad at all.

I can live with non-coated chassis if it's the same material as SP1, and I don't care about the motor mount, diff, or brakes.

Springs are cheap and a tuning option anyway.

Ball bearing steering is nice, but bushings are fine if they work smoothly. Can you just buy a set of bearings without replacing parts?

So it's just trick turnbuckles and better shock towers that I would like. Unless some of the standard 777 parts are substandard quality, it looks like a better deal if you don't care it's not a "SP1".

Save the $300 and pick out a couple aftermarket pieces.... is that the way to go?

[dgrobe2112]

well.. regular comes with ball bearing steering. and your idea is exactly what i did.. saved the 300, bout towers from www.racers-edge.com, chassis baces from racers edge, and some spare parts, and stuff.. dialed.. car is awesome. slowly did other upgrades like SP1 shocks, and other stuff.. but the regular is alot better deal

[AreCee]

The regular even comes with tires and foams. It doesn't take much to be as competitive with the regular, as you said; springs, towers and turnbuckles are all you really need. The turnbuckles are a necessary item just to ease setting up the buggy.

I splurged a little and got the universals for the rear but the dog bones were fine. And got a nice new OS Max VZ-B V-Spec for the money I saved by buying the regular.

[Little_Horn]

I would also advise some blue springs and new shock pistons (maybe the ones from the sp1. It depends...).
If you wish to be on the safe side, buy some shock towers.
I would also advise to use a k-factory pin kit, so you can get let go the e-clips.

[dgrobe2112]

the SP1 shock pistons will NOT fit in the regular shocks. what i did was took a 1/16 drill bit, and drilled the holes on the stock pistons. pretty close to 1.4mm.

I got towers and chassis braces, i also did others like center universals, turnbuckles, and rear universals as well.

I think the Kfactory hing pins are a good idea, but only needed on the front upper, cuz the new geometry of the front end, makes it a big pain in the ASS to change put an eclip on there. hahah

Where can i get the kfactory pins at LH?

[AreCee]

I just use a dab of shoe-goo on the e-clips and they seem to stay in place and are easy to remove when you need to. Another trick is to drill a small hole to fit a grub screw to hold the pin in (you'll only need one hole per pin so pick the thickest part to drill).

[dgrobe2112]

those are good ideas, and i have done all those except the shoe goo part. The problem i have, is when i change anything, its a pain to get the clips back on there.. im gonna try the trinity ones

[AreCee]

I usually remove the whole unit, like the front end, from the chassis to make changes so then it's easy to remove and replace the e-clips.

Also I never reuse the old clips, always replace them with new fresh ones.

[KanaiDude]

So DG I talked to my mod guys and I think he set me straight. I've been running to rich a bottom end and trying to compensate with very lean top end. He said I should be running 200-220 with the mod and getting 10 mins a tank. I've always run my p5 a little rich on the bottom and compensated with a lean top, seems like i've got it backwards. He said the P5 likes it a little lean on the bottom and rich on the top and should idle all day and clear right out, he's modded over 100 p5's and said they all run like this, glad i called him, stupid nitro motors...

[Little_Horn]

the SP1 shock pistons will NOT fit in the regular shocks. what i did was took a 1/16 drill bit, and drilled the holes on the stock pistons. pretty close to 1.4mm.

I got towers and chassis braces, i also did others like center universals, turnbuckles, and rear universals as well.

I think the Kfactory hing pins are a good idea, but only needed on the front upper, cuz the new geometry of the front end, makes it a big pain in the ASS to change put an eclip on there. hahah

Where can i get the kfactory pins at LH?

The pistons don't fit the standar shocks? :confused:
I had the 1.3 (black), 1.4 (white), and 1.5 (white with a circunference in the center) pistons in my hand and they all had the same diameter. Once, I asked my LHS guy about this same issue and he told me the inside diameter from the standard and sp1 shocks is the same. In fact, if you go to the kyosho Japan site, they say nothing about the shocks' inside diameter. The only thing that says is: "Teflon resin cutting damper piston" (translated to english by babelfish). If you go to Kyosho USA site it says:
__________________mp777_____________sp1___________ _______
shock case------blue anodized-----specially coated
shock piston-----molded plastic----machined plastic/teflon-coated

In fact, if you look a the parts listing at Kyosho USA site, the part number is the same: KYOC8019 (IFW115) Kyosho Shock Piston 1.4x2mm for both the standard and the sp1 versions.
But I can give you even a bigger proof. Simply go to your manual (the mp777 standard manual) and go to the parts listing where it says IFW115 (page 35). You can read: "Shock Piston 1.4mm x2 hole" and on the side of that: "instead of 174". You can go then to page 24 (bottom) and see that 174 is in fact the black piston. So, as you can see, 1.3, 1.4 and 1.5 pistons all fit in the standard and sp1 shocks.
Please, don't take my word for granted. Pick up the manual and see it for yourself.

About the pins. My LHS guy found a way to use the mp 7.5 pins kit in the mp777. In fact, he's using them in his mp777. I didn't ask for the explanation because I will buy them and by then, I will ask him for that information.
K-factory is about to launch some new mp777 options (the monoblock motor mount is the first). It might be possible that a new mp777 pin kit is on the way. I hope also that new shock towers and braces are on the way. Who knows??? :rolleyes:

[KanaiDude]

Strapped on my new fioroni chassis last night, WOW the milling on that thing is nice. Changed my diff setup 5/7/1, finally installed my antenna mount, 2 airtronics servos, new synth backlit m8 (got 245 on ebay for my old one), new alluminum mugen shoes, new cradock brakes, new fioroni towers brace and radio tray. Am I missing something, oh and i'll be eating hot dogs and mac and cheese for the next 2 years!

[dgrobe2112]

LH.. if you say they fit, thats fine, i tried to put regular white teflon pistons in there, and they didnt fit, maybe i was doing something wrong, who knows. it was just too tight of a fit to get them in there.

KD, sweet, on all the new stuff, i got carbon fiber radio tray, and steering brace. the mugen alum shoes are sweet, i ran 2 race weekends, took the bell off, to see how they looked, almost look new.. hahah.. and cradocks.. be ready for some stoppage.. first time i went out there, with them in there.. went into a turn, almost did an endoe.. hahah

My new stuff.. go to www.******.net/members/dannyg and check out my new paint scheme and bodies. They are from www.razorgrafix.com they did the paint, and its their bodies. Very pleased. also, got me a new radio, sold my M8 for 235, and bought a EX10 helios. very nice. NExt will be a new motor, my P5 is getting old and wore out, same as my WS7II. time for new stuff. Thinkin of getting a JP.. not sure on that though.

[Little_Horn]

I'm considering also those cradock brakes. Where did you get them from?
I think they are cheap, light and I also heard they brake very good and don't fade. I'm also considering them so I can reduce some weight on the transmission. I'm also considering the new Kyosho lighter middle-diff gear (even lighter than the sp1 gear).
Any sugestions for a even lighter transmission (no aluminium universals. They wear too fast)?
What about the anti-lock cradock brakes? Are they better? More progressive?
Please tell me your opinion about these. Thanks.

[KanaiDude]

NICE Ride DG, I like the carbon fiber! How is that fuel line setup working for you, I'm going to change mine around a bit. EX10 helios sweet radio only thing that held me back from that were the crystals. You should look into the RBmods Rick is really up and comming he has a full mod C5 spread in a magazine now and he's writing a column, the JP's are pretty nice though I wouldn't mind running one of them, 421b's are pretty powerfull to a few of my friends run them. Can't wait to do an endo on the track I've been having some brake fading problems for some time now, can't wait to run my buggy this weekend it's amazing how long it can take you plugging away at setups and such before the car really gets where it needs to be like you say DIALED...

[KanaiDude]

Little horn, fioroni makes some lightened conical gears also, 8 grams lighter a piece a little pricey though. I've got the sp1 center gear I can't imagine getting much lighter then that but if theres a will theres a way. Racers-edge.com has the craddock brakes, I got mine off ebay, don't know about the anti-lock ones.

[dgrobe2112]

you can get cradock brake pads from www.racers-edge.com for like 10 bux.. i dont use the antilock ones.. cuz my radio and alot of newer radios have an ABS fuction. to pulse the brakes rather than lock them up. they are alot lighter, and they dont have any fade to them. Also, you dont need brake pads, you just use your calipers. And they dont fade if you get fuel on them in a long main. Love them, wont go back to regular brakes. Also, since your lookin at weight, racers edge has a lightened milled chassis as well. Please post info on the new lighter diff gear, i would like to get one also.

RBmods huh.. i was thinkin of that, or a HOT mod p5. still debating. My p5 is a little worn out. and yes, if you race alot, and try different things, you will see the setup getting better.. like we have a really high speed section at our track, that my car was pushing in.. on power.. so i thought and thought aobut what i could do.. all i did was change to the inner hole on the rear arm for the shocks.. made a ton of difference. so.. now i know what happens.. and what to expect.. seems every weekend the car is getting better and better.

[dgrobe2112]

oh.. and the crystals.. your right, and i debated on it for a while. my main reason for getting this radio.. is cuz i like it.. looks sweet.. also.. my LHS had one in stock, and i am good buddies with the owner.. and he had mentioned to me that he wont be able to move it, so, i decided to help him out, and sell my radio and get that one.. i needed a new radio anyway. also.. the new spektrum system will be out for it pretty soon.. they are saying late january.

Willl find out how it works this weekend. Everything in the car seems more fluid now.. my steering is more fluid, and the throttle and brake seems more smooth. i did alot of different things with the M8 to get it close to how i want it.. but never seemed quite right, slow servos down.. change dual rate.. stuff like that.. but the radio is sweet..

[KanaiDude]

DG check out the neo buggy engine mod forum, Rick Brake who does all the RBmods posts on there, nothing but good things about him on that forum, theres is a poll too, hotmods didnt do very well i don't think, not bad mods just not really all that modified as Rick's are.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. i read good things about all of them. And your right, they say HOT mod dont do as much drastic mods as others. I really cant see needing a huge modified motor.. haha.. you know..

[KanaiDude]

I guess one of the things to consider though is run time and temps, Rick's mods get 10min per tank and run about 200-220, the mod gives more power but also runs more efficiently. I got my Nova P5 from PDL and got Ricks mod on ebay total cost was less then 300.

[Little_Horn]

I have to apologise about the "new" center diff. gear. There is no new, lighter gear. I just missunderstood my LHS guy. The ones that he got are the sp1 ones.
So, I'm sorry. My mistake. :(

[Little_Horn]

I was looking at these carbon pieces on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5943501706&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW) and I was talking to a friend of mine about them.
He told me that he had some carbon side-guards and that they were causing some interference with his transponder (personnal - AMB). He found a way to avoid the interferences, but the point is that he told me that these (ebay) carbon pieces could also cause some interference. I feel tempted to think that these interferences were caused because the transponder is derectly above a large carbon surface.
Does any of you guys use this kind of carbon pieces and have you ever had any interferences (transponder or radio or whatever)?
I'm also concerned about the durability of the carbon piece where the front brance fits. Can it brake easily (ie: beacause of a bad jump, the brace forces the carbon piece, and it breaks) or can it take a bigger beating than the metal ones?

Thanks.

[invsible]

hey guys im runnin a rb ws7 2 with a jp-1 pipe and gettin about 6 min run time what can i do to get to about the 8 min mark any ideas?????

[KanaiDude]

LIttle horn I had that set on my k2 for a while, it is ok, the center diff mount did not have perfect holes cut for brake arms though. I had no problems with radio interference, I did have the shock towers to and only used them for a few weekends because i took a hard hit and compromised the top of the front tower. Other then that I like the front brace and radio tray but thats about it and i doubt it cuts down to much weight.

Invisible what glow plug and fuel are you running? I was using an o'donnell 99 and OD 20 percent fuel and was getting about 7.5 minutes. Your needle settings could have something to do with it also I think if you run the bottom rich and top lean you have more fuel consumption also, maybe try leaning the bottom an hour or two and richen the top the same.

[dgrobe2112]

LH, i have those same exact pieces on my car, and have no problems with glitching, or anything, i have taken a few hard tumbles as well.. and have not seen any brakes or anything in them. They are considerably lighter than the aluminum peices they replace. holding all 3 peices of each in each hand.. i could tell the difference.

invis.. as KD said.. i think you are running the motor fat. I got around 7-7.5 minutes on a tank with my WS7II. also.. what kinda temps are you running. Have someone with an exergen gun temp the engine and see.. If your not running that motor round 240, your not getting the performance you should from the engine. The motor likes a fat bottom end.. if you are on a tight track, then you will use more fuel.. the WS7II rips on high speed tracks.

[invsible]

i use the stock rb plug and odonnall 30% the motor rips every one at the track asks what it is ,the temp is good 220-240 does not seem to be rich any where the reason i need more is because the qualifying rounds at the dirt challenge in feb. are 7 mins

[KanaiDude]

Wow 7 mins! did you shim your motor at all for the 30 percent, i know the stock motor is recomended to run 20 and to add a shim if your going to run 30, does your motor idle very well? if you have any low end bog on it you should try what i was saying, i know personally sometimes i overcomensate a rich low end with a lean top end, if you adjust the needles an hour or two you shouldnt notice any real decrease in top end speed but may be running the motor more effieciently and get another minute out of it just a thought, you could try a hotter plug to like a 4,5 or mcoy 59...

[invsible]

no i did not shim it and it will idle all day long no bogging just stait up rips so i dont know.......maybe ill call rb mods and have him do what he does.........

[dgrobe2112]

well.. also.. what abot your fuel line?? are you using alot of that? you could add some time in there with a extra inch or 2 of fule line..

[invsible]

i still need to be roar legal the extra fuel line would work but not be legal......

[KanaiDude]

are two fuel filters illegal? i ran mine with 2 for a while when i was running RZ motors, yea rb mods should add few extra minutes to your run time, he mods alot of ws72's, interesting he says he can get more power out of a modded straight s72, i'm thinking of sending my ws72 to him also though...

[dgrobe2112]

well.. i dont think the pros are getting that much more run time than you are.. if they are.. its cuz they run their motors so lean.. cuz they dont care.. they get free motors anyway..

[KanaiDude]

DG my P5 ran like a Antellope on speed this weekend, Rick at RBmods has these things nailed, it's by far the fastest motor i've ever run. I am ordering a standard S72 from him as he says, and I have heard from a few factory guys and Rick that the standard S72 has more bottom end then a WS72 and he can mod them to run even better then the modded WS72, and has a much more usable power band then a modded P5. I cam in 4th at our 45 min club race this weekend, I was in 2nd for a good bit of the race but as the track got more and more loose throughout the night I just could not handle all the power through the turns.

[dgrobe2112]

Sweet, KD.. so.. your getting another S72?? what about your WS7II.. what you gonna do with that? I am fixin to get my WS7II squeezed.. and rebuilt... also got another Top P5. So, i will have my REX,TOP and my WS7II get my REX redone,, and my WS7II

[KanaiDude]

I'm putting my WS72 on ebay soon in the next week or two and a new piston and sleeeve for it, already ordered a modded S72 from Rick, then I'll have a modded P5 and S72, probably run the RB on loose tracks and the P5 on very hooked up tracks. I picked up a jp-2 pipe also for the P5 should help tame the bottom a little. Have you seen those new bags from speed mind, just got one of them there really nice, I am envious of your Helios that is one hella sweet looking radio. Thank goodness my body painting is really picking up cause i just keep buying stuff LoL, I had 3 bodies given to me this weekend and a huge list of people bugging me for more, gotta talk to my accountant and see how much of my RC stuff I can write off, traveling, maybe even a buggy if i use it for taking pictures and such.

[wyl03]

dgrobe - on your 777, how do u secure the antenna to the radio box without using the aluminum antenna holder? on my 7.5, there's a moulded part of the radio box that can hold the antenna securefly. but on the 777, there's only a HOLE ..

[Little_Horn]

I know that this question was meant to DG, but I can answer this.
The mp777 also has a little molded plastic to hold the antenna (at least mine has), in the shape of a small, thin tube section.
The antenna is well secured (at least mine is) in that plastic bit.

P.S.: Sorry DG for "stealing" the answer... ;)

[wyl03]

LH - the moulded plastic - is that part of the radio box or it needs to be mounted on the box? your description sounds exactly like my 7.5's radio box.

[KanaiDude]

In my 777 it has the same molded hole that my 7.5 did, where you can firmly place an antenna into it, thats wierd that yours didnt have that?? I actually used that on my 777 for a few weeks until I got around to cutting that off and putting the alluminum holder on there (which I can say i'm happy i finally did its pretty trick). Maybe you got an updated radio box in a newer kit thats my only thought, did yours come with the alluminum holder it should have if there is just a hole there?

[wyl03]

KD - i think you've answered my question.
i bought the 777 used and i was told by the seller that the antenna holder was missing. Initially, i thought i could still use the radio box w/o the antenna holder.

however, looking at the radio box, i reckon the seller cut off the moulded plastic bit, exactly like what you've done, to install the antenna holder (which has since gone missing).

hmm .. it does make it a pain when the plastic bit has already been cut off and i don't have any antenna holder to use! :rolleyes:

[dgrobe2112]

Yeah.. wyl.. the piece has been cut off.. even with the SP1, you will have to cut it off to use the special holder. go on ebay and get one

[KanaiDude]

DG I want to try some panthers, was thinking of the Komodo 1's, maybe some soft and medium ones, what do you think do you like the 1's or 2's? and which do you like soft or medium? So what have you done again to stop some on power push? I'm running 5/7/1 now, should i go with 3/5/1 to try and get a little more steering back?

[AreCee]

Yeah.. wyl.. the piece has been cut off.. even with the SP1, you will have to cut it off to use the special holder. go on ebay and get oneYou don't need to go on ebay to buy the antenna holder. Any one of the available holders from GS, racers-edge and so forth will work and the prices range from $5 on up. I'm using a nice purple one that sits lower than the Kyosho one.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. i went with 3/7/1.. also the 22 degree hubs. I have also went with the K1's for that as well.. personally.. the K2's feel better.. but i seen some guys running the K2's in front.. and K1's in the rear.. cuz the K1's dont steer as good as the K2's.. and the K1's have alot more forward bite.. so they put the K1's in the rear.. adn the K2's for better side bite in the front

K1's great forward bite, less side bite
K2's excellent traction, and side bite, not as much forward bite

Alot have been runnin the soft compound.. with good life.. lasting a good while.. i run the medium soft, just so they last a little longer..

Also, you could go to lower rear toe block to get more on power steering. Degani and them are running 3 degree.. but i have the 2.5, thinkin of going 2 degree back there. but i got the car so dialed right now..

Also, you could go to the inside hole in the rear, and less camber.. run round 0 to -1 camber on the car.. helps the car roll in the corners better.. but more prone to traction roll.. also cant be as aggressive into the corner with less camber..

[dgrobe2112]

Well.. i also forgot to tell ya KD, that i have a bit of a push as well.. with 3k in the front.. i am gonna try 5K.. and see what happens.. and letyou know

[invsible]

does any body here run at the dirt in hemet? if so what tires do you run?? and on the fuel thing i might try the dual filter set up ryan ran two filters at the kyosho masters so maybe it is legal....

[KanaiDude]

I would think 3k would give you more steering, is that more off power steering into turns? and 5k would give you more on power steering? Also is that the same for hubs, 20 degrees gives you more off power? I've got the 2.5 in the back also. Bought a set of each K1's and K2's soft I think I'll try the front and rear trick thanks!

[performula]

What would be a better buy between the Kanai II and the MP777 Standard?

The Kanai can be had for 429.99 and the standard at 399.99.

[dgrobe2112]

The MP777 is a better handling car, and more updated suspension geometry. the standard MP777 compared to the Kanai, is pretty close. the Kanai towers are a little better, and you get some blue parts like the special motor mount, radio tray post, and stuff like that. Kanai gets all universals all around the car.. the regular MP777 has dogbones in center and rear of the car. but the MP777 handles much better than the 7.5

you can get hopups for the 777 allready on ebay and upgrade stuff off ebay for pretty cheap

[ExtremeDuty]

Almost 10 years later since I bought an Inferno 10 buggy, finally I am getting this baby :D I have always wanted to get a 1/8 buggy, but somehow it didn't work out every time so far.

Actually I was hesitating to buy it due its high price, but my wife press the "final order process" button for me. LOL.

I ordered regular MP777 & 94358 servo for steering.
I will have to borrow Hyper 8 engine from Mad Force and hitec 625 servo from one of my electric sedan for throttle/brake.

Now I just need to find a place to run it... :( This case living in metro area isn't cool since it's hard to find a good off-roads.

[Tucker01]

Your wife does know she's just condemned herself to never ending evenings discussing shock angles, sway bar thickness, wing position, clutch spring choice, etc. etc. ?

lol.

[dgrobe2112]

congrats on the new car, you will love it.. love it even more when you can take it to the track..

[ExtremeDuty]

Thanks, guys.
I'm so pumped up and I can't wait! Oh, I just found out that there is an off-road track 1 hour from my house. However they say it's built for 1/10 stadium truck races. I guess I have to see if they would let me run 1/8 buggy.

[dgrobe2112]

you prolly wont get to race it.. but im sure you can play on the track

[KanaiDude]

Merry Christmas to my 777 friends!!

[performula]

What parts will I need to convert a triple 7 into a truck? Mad Force wheels and tires...that's it?

[Tucker01]

Not quite.

The larger wheels and tyres will badly overgear your car, so performance will really suffer and the engine may well overheat.

To combat this you need to lower the gearing, and the standard range of clutchbells is not enough. You need to install a larger spur gear, which involves raising the centre diff mounts, and installing a new centre diff plate with larger spur gear aperture.

That all I could think of off the top of my head, might be more to do as well.

Merry Christmas everyone!

[dgrobe2112]

there is a mp7.5 truggy conversion you can get that has the bigger gear andother stuff to use Tmaxx wheels and tires.

KD, and everyone else, have a merry xmas, and a happy new year

[performula]

there is a mp7.5 truggy conversion you can get that has the bigger gear andother stuff to use Tmaxx wheels and tires.

KD, and everyone else, have a merry xmas, and a happy new year

Where can I pick up this conversion?

[KanaiDude]

Link To Holeshotenginering (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5944343871&rd=1)

This is probably compatible with the 777 but I would email him and ask him first. If it is, then the JTracing conversion kit should fit the 777 as well, these are the only two companies that sell full truggy conversion kits for the Kyosho cars.

[atm92484_3]

The 7.5 and 777 share the same diff mounts and bulkheads. The only thing that may make it not work with the 777 will be the upper hinge pin mounts on the front of the car and the radio tray. On the 7.5, the pins are fixed via drilled holes on the shock tower and on the 777 it uses those bushings. If they line up and the geometry is not changed, then the existing kits should work with some different screws to mount the shock towers and some drilling on the chassis.

[performula]

I'll have to check out the JT version once the website works again. The Holeshot looked OK.

[KanaiDude]

If your going to spend the money then yea the JT is sweet, one pops up on ebay once in a blue moon if you check there often.

[atm92484_3]

The Holeshot and JT kit costs about the same amount. Considering the Holeshot has 0 wins on the national level and its pretty crude and hack to begin with, I'd just get the JT kit.

[performula]

I saw a few posts stating the car in standard form can be bought for $320...Where?

[JamminJay]

$320............. ultimatehobbies.com


I am lso thinking of getting the standard 777, can anyone who has a clean one please snd me some real detailed pics of this car? All I find everywhere are detailed pics of the special 1. Anyways, if you could email me some pic i would appreciate it... thanx JamminJay1722@aol.com

[AreCee]

$320............. ultimatehobbies.com


I am lso thinking of getting the standard 777, can anyone who has a clean one please snd me some real detailed pics of this car? All I find everywhere are detailed pics of the special 1. Anyways, if you could email me some pic i would appreciate it... thanx JamminJay1722@aol.com
It looks exactly like the SP-1 except without the bling-bling metal radio tray and wing posts, threaded rod instead of turnbuckles and it has dog bones instead of universals in the center and rear. The wheels and wing are white and the standard comes with pin spike tires and foams. The rest of the SP-1 stuff looks the same as the standard but has anodizing and the shock towers are thicker with more adjustments.

[JamminJay]

It looks exactly like the SP-1 except without the bling-bling metal radio tray and wing posts, threaded rod instead of turnbuckles and it has dog bones instead of universals in the center and rear. The wheels and wing are white and the standard comes with pin spike tires and foams. The rest of the SP-1 stuff looks the same as the standard but has anodizing and the shock towers are thicker with more adjustments.


Thanx, but you said the sp1 has anodizing? Isn't the standard also done in blue?

[AreCee]

Thanx, but you said the sp1 has anodizing? Isn't the standard also done in blue?
Hard Anodized items appear a different color; chassis and shock bodies. The blue parts are not hard anodized and look the same in both versions,

[dgrobe2112]

the blue parts are different from each car.. the material, and process of makeing them. The regular version, is prolly the best deal kyosho has made in a long time. Me personally, i got the regular and did some upgrades.. with the extra 200 bux, and i got alot more car than the SP1

[Ribz]

website says $399, do you have to call to get that $320 price, also do you guys know any place outside california that has a deal like that? all the good deals are in cali, with tax =\

i have king heads stuff coming, some CF shock towers,raido tray and have a servo, p5, jp-1 one the way too getting excited, cant wait...

anyways the cheepest ive found so far is tower @ $360 shipped and now ultimate @ $345 shipped i would be a happy man if i could knock off another $25 or so

[JamminJay]

The $320 was only a christmas day sale, your a day late. :(

[dgrobe2112]

you have to call to get the 319 shipped price, you cant beat that with a stick, and if your in Cali, that sux.. but its still a good price

[AreCee]

The $320 was only a christmas day sale, your a day late. :(
Did you try to call them?

$319 is the price they quote over the phone but you can't get it unless you actually call them. Also they ship free on any internet order over $50 which includes the 777 if you call to get the price. I know because that's how I bought mine. So now it's you're turn.

[AreCee]

the blue parts are different from each car.. the material, and process of makeing them. The regular version, is prolly the best deal kyosho has made in a long time. Me personally, i got the regular and did some upgrades.. with the extra 200 bux, and i got alot more car than the SP1
The only blue parts that are different between the kits are the shock towers. The radio plate, center brace and front plate are the same. The lower suspension plates with the SP are different configurations for adjustment, the standard only comes with one setting.

[wyl03]

are the toe-in blocks (not kick-up plates) from 7.5 and 777 interchangeable?

[Ribz]

well went and picked up my 777 from ultimate for 319.00. this is my first 1/8 scale, i have no doubt i made the right choice ;)

man ultimate is a freakin dream, everything you could want.. well almost :D

[KanaiDude]

319 is an unbelievable deal on that car... Hope everyone had a good christmas!

Got my panthers DG, a new jp-2 pipe to help tame the massive bottom of mine (the motor of course) going to switch back my diffs to 3/5/1 I think it might be a little easier for me to drive I hope, LSD/4/1 was easier for me then 5/7/1 but I just don't like the LSD, and man the oil in it STINKS when you service it.

[nigru]

I am going to order the standard mp777 from towerhobbies. As I am from Malta, no hobby shops are available here! So I want to order some extra parts which frequently break, or to make small ubgrades. What do you suggest me to order extra?

[KanaiDude]

Nigru - There aren't to many parts you need to order I haven't really "broken" anything yet on mine. I do always carry a backup set of a-arms front and rear, I usually have a spare front bumper, and side guards, possibly f/r bulkhead, and center diff brace (these are parts I like to replace after a few months of hard racing but I have never broken them). There are a few upgrades you may want to get if tower is your only option (you could contact ben88 on ebay and see if he would ship there, if you pay by paypal he may go for it i don't know but he is VERY cheap) I guess I would get some center and rear universals, possibly some coated shock bodies. In terms of after market upgrades I do like alluminum chassis braces you can get them from KingHeadz or racers-edge, they may even have them from Hardcore racing on towerhobbies (i don't think the 7.5 version chassis braces fit), I also like cnc'd front knuckles but not everyone gets those (7.5 knuckles ARE compatible tower sells Hardcore racing ones). Must be hard to order stuff I feel for ya... Let me know if you have any other questios i'll be on here all day today, have fun you will LOVE the car!!

[dgrobe2112]

are the toe-in blocks (not kick-up plates) from 7.5 and 777 interchangeable?

no.. the toe block and squat plates are different in the cars, if you use 7.5 toe block, you gotta use 7.5 squat plates.. and vice versa..

KD is correct, the chassis braces wont work from 7.5 to 777. the main upgrades i would make.. is towers and chassis braces, and then you are ready to go, i bought those main parts, and upgraded after that as i wanted.. i never needed to upgrade anything or have not broke anything, but i would carry a spare set of arms and thats pretty much it.. have fun, enjoy the car.. also..

Nigru, try ultimatehobbies.com they may ship to you.. 319 for the car.. and you may need to pay a little shipping for them to get it to you.. if your lookin for hop-ups.. www.racers-edge.com has a full line of parts for the 777. you gotta call ultimate hobbies to get the 319 price.

[aim300x]

What buggy would hold up best to extreme jumping/bashing ? Im looking at buggys and im not sure what to spend the money on.I heard the sp 777 holds up better then the mp777. Any info appre. or other buggys

[AreCee]

What buggy would hold up best to extreme jumping/bashing ? Im looking at buggys and im not sure what to spend the money on.I heard the sp 777 holds up better then the mp777. Any info appre. or other buggysThose are virtually identical buggies the MP777SP has the tuning options, stiffer shock towers, smoother brake disks, teflon coated shocks, better turnbuckles, LCD diff and hard anodized chassis. All the plastic/composite parts are the same in both versions.

[Little_Horn]

As promised before, here I am to tell you about "the tip" for the K-factory pin kit (to use 7.5 kit in the 777).
You can install the kit as you normally would. The only diference is in the back of the car. I'll explain:
In the back hubs (or whatever they are called), you use a pin the secure the hub to the lower arm. This is were the pins are different from the kit. So, the only chance is to use smaller pins from the kit in here. The problem is that these (smaller) pins are shorter than they should. But this doesn't mean we can't use them securelly.
If you notice, you can change the length between axes with a small plastic part. Instead of using this small plastic part, we use a linkage collar. This way, the hub won't move (it still has a spacer), you can allways change the linkage collar into the back or front for more or less length between axes, and the pin is secured in it's place.
This method has been race tested. You can use it without a problem.

I hope that this tip is usefull for someone else, other than me. ;)

[AreCee]

That's a good way to capture the pin. The collar should be 5mm in order to fit and act as the spacer.

[nigru]

Thanks for helping! I have another question. I am going to order the 2pl futaba radio. I think for its price it is good. With the package it has an s3003 servo. Do you think this servo is enough for the trottle and brake?? Also before ordering, is there a good website in the EU? I can't find one. Thanks and happy new year everybody!

[AreCee]

Thanks for helping! I have another question. I am going to order the 2pl futaba radio. I think for its price it is good. With the package it has an s3003 servo. Do you think this servo is enough for the trottle and brake?? Also before ordering, is there a good website in the EU? I can't find one. Thanks and happy new year everybody!
The radio is OK but it is AM. The servo on the other hand is not quite up to handling throttle/brake duties on an 1/8 scale buggy. Get a JR Z590m as the minimum servo with 85 oz /.15 sec @ 6V about $40USD. For steering you will want a servo to have at minimum 100 oz of torque or more with a speed of .15 sec or less both at 6V.

If you are planning to use the included receiver battery box with 4 AA batteries you may notice that the power and speed of a servo may not be as strong eventhough the voltage is the same as a 5 cell Rx pack the AA's will not deliver the current as well to the servos.

As far as finding a European web site, why not do a search since you are obviously on the internet to be able to post on this site. Try Google.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. the s3003 servo is not enought for throttle and break. a good radio you could get would be the XR3 radio from JR, it comes with 1 metal gear servo.. you will like it.. and then you can buy 1 servo for steering..

[Little_Horn]

Go to http://www.neo-buggy.net/, click on Links, browse to shops and there, you can find some links to EU shops.
About those servos: forget them. They are not suitable for 1/8 TT.

[Dirt Pilot]

I'm actually doing this to my old K2, but I figured I would ask here. Whats the tallest spur gear I can use before I have to shim up the diff holder. I would like to run something like a 50t, but I don't think that will fit unless I throw some sort of spacer underneath the holder. Does anyone on here have an Inferno they made a truggy out of? Pictures anywhere? I'm curious as to what my options are for mounting a truck body on it.

[wyl03]

for K2, kyosho only has 46T and 48T. for 48, u will need to shim the diff holder.

dgrobe - thanks for the info. btw, which kick-up plate did ur 777 come with? i believe my sp1 came with 3-deg kick-up plate. i'm looking for a 2-deg to try and wonder if there's a part number available?

btw, i drove the 777 for the very first time today. tonnes of steering! but very squiggly rear. i need to change the set-up to make the rear more planted. current set-up:

diff: 5-7-1k
shock: 60/30
shock spacers: 10mm/5mm
spur/clutch bell: 46/14

rear:
3-deg toe-in
3-deg kick up(?)

[KanaiDude]

wyl03 what motor are you running? I'm running a modP5 and have the squirly rear right now, some guys running RB's aren't having quite as much trouble cause they don't have the massive low end I do, what type of pipe are you running? I had the 5-7-1 setup as well last few races and this seemed to add to the squirliness, I switched back to 3/5/1 this weekend to help and I think it will, when I was running LSD/4/1 like the book said I didn't have as much trouble, but I don't like the LSD so I think 3/5/1 is a good compromise and may be a little more stable, I also didn't have as much push with the stock setup, I had alot more onpower push with 5/7/1.

I'm ready for battle this weekend, have to show the Mugen invasion who's boss, man everyone at my track has an X5 now, theres like 10 of them, 2-777's, 1-xray (factory guy who will kill us all with it) and a few hypers...

[wyl03]

KD - i was using the 777 with the OS V-spec + T2050 pipe.
will try again with panther KD2s.

[dgrobe2112]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHLY8&P=7

the gold rear plate is a 2d kickup.. that seems to be the one to use.. also, try going to 2.5 degree toe in the rear, better on smoother tracks.

i heard alot of people had a squirlly rear end on the car, i do as well, i have to be easier on the throttle,unlike the 7.5, where you could point and shoot,

what tires were you using? if you get tires with more side bite.. it will help stable the car.. like the kamoto2

my setup is 60/40 oils front and rear
3/7/1 diffs
rear upper arm is in outside hole on the hub, and on the tower, in the lowest inside hole.
-1 camber all around,
inner hole on arms for the shocks, on rough tracks, if the track is smooth, i move the rear shocks to the outer holes..

another thing, try using 2k in the rear of the car..

also, you need to make sure you got your car tracking nice and straight, if you are always using the wheel to keep the car straight, it is making it unstable.


KD, i never had the chance to try the LSD/4/1 diff setup.. how does it feel compared to the 3/7/1, or 5/7/1... i guess i just need to try it..

i also heard that some guys are going way up in the rear diffs.. like 5/5/5 diffs.. weird.. i need to get some spare diffs, and try different setups..

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi, all!

I received my 777 2 days ago. So far I am up to installing an engine. The left assemblies are exhaust pipe, servo & radio plate, tire mounting, and etc.

For those who have standard 777, did you follow the standard setup as in instruction? Since this is my first 1/8 buggy, I have no idea on setup and just follow per instruction. One observation is that front & rear camber seem to be too much by eye-ball measurement. With a RPM camber gage, front is -3 deg and rear is -5 deg. These cambers are too much, right?
Thanks to set screw type camber rods, it won't be easy to adjust.


All my fingers are aching... :o too many screws...

[dgrobe2112]

extreme.. welcome to the 777 thread.. the cambers you are saying, are too much.. i run -1 all the way around.. other than that.. 3/7/1 or 5/7/1 on the diff setup.. 50/30 oils with the standard pistons.. or you can drill them with a 1/16 drill bit.. and use 60/40

everything else is book setup

[ExtremeDuty]

extreme.. welcome to the 777 thread.. the cambers you are saying, are too much.. i run -1 all the way around.. other than that.. 3/7/1 or 5/7/1 on the diff setup.. 50/30 oils with the standard pistons.. or you can drill them with a 1/16 drill bit.. and use 60/40

everything else is book setup

Thanks for confirming on the camber. yeah, it doesn't look OK to me... -5 rear camber!
I was searching Towerhobbies & eBay for camber rods & tie rods. I can't believe how expensive they are!

[dgrobe2112]

you could look for Ofna 9.5 camber links. Also,check out ebay.. they got good prices there for those.

[KanaiDude]

Wow we were almost bumped off the page! So I LOVE panther tires, anyone having problems with a squirlly rear end should try the Komodo 2's, small issue with traction rolling now, but I would rather have that then the rear sliding out...

So I was in 2nd again this weekend around the 15 minute mark, blazzzing fast, about 4 of us came up on a jump on the back stretch, and a huge dust cloud insued. Well I didn't find my car after that, I reved the motor to try and hear it and it had taken off into the parking lot, I was screaming "Dude where's my car" one of the turnmarshalls finally goes OH it went over there! I was like OMG why didn't you get it, got my car back on the track after 90 seconds and still caught up to take 4th, I was so frustrated 2nd place right behind the RCproseries champ was mine for the taking..

[dgrobe2112]

sounds awesome.. so the car is getting better and better huh.. great.. we have had rain the last weekend.. and cant race.. and my phone was off the hook.. and i missed the phone call to go up to Indy RC for an indoor race.. but missed it..

[KanaiDude]

Yea the car was so hooked up this weekend, I'm telling you RBmods is the bomb, my p5 with a high end pipe was just smoking, people seemed scared when I came up on them it was like look out or get run over, I've got his s72 comming soon, can't beat finishing your qualifiers with 1/3 a tank left and running at 210, pitting at a very comfortable 6 mins in the main.

[invsible]

what the differance between the o.s 2050 pipe and the 2040??? anyone know?????

[wyl03]

in the last few days, i've done a whole lot of changes to the set-up of my car to get it to be more stable. things that i have changed:

- rear shock position - moved to outer position on lower arm + moved to upper 1 position on shock tower -> this resulted in my car sitting really really low and i ended up adding a lot of shock spacers (>10mm)

- changed the centre diff oil from 7 to 5K

BOTH changes were done 1 after another helped incrementally. (fyi, changes were made after checking out kawamoto and kanai's set-up sheets from the recent kyosho challenge cup in japan, pls refer to www.kyosho.co.jp)

Other things done:

- dialed out steering exponential on transmitter :rolleyes:
- changed rear camber from 1 to 2-deg

all changes above were done on my practice tyres - Medial Pro Pulsar.
i tried the panther KD2s and they worked well but i'm keeping them for the race days.

i'm pretty pleased with how the car handles now. that coupled with the KD2s should be good for my 1st race with the 777.

[Ribz]

hey guys hopefully the things i need arrive this week so i can start building, i have a question, ive been looking throught the manual and was wondering how much oil you guys are putting in the diffs?

[wyl03]

how much = quantity or thickness?

quantity
- usually i add the diff oil until it just about covers the gears in the diff case (ie 80% full)

thickness
- 3/7/1 seems to be the baseline to start with

[dgrobe2112]

fill the diff up, so the oil covers the 4 planetary gears.. bout 80% full

[Ribz]

right on, i was asking about quanity, thanx alot

[wyl03]

has anyone tried LSD in the front of their 777?

[KanaiDude]

I ran it for the first 4-5 race days, I believe it is meant for blue groove tracks with a smooth surface. It ran fine but think it is a tad twitchy on rough rutted tracks. I switched mine to 3/5/1 standard and am happy with that right now, I may change to 3/7/1 in the future, a standard diff seems to hold better in the rough stuff, it doesn't have that precision movement that the LSD does.

[dgrobe2112]

KD, i just read that Degani has been running 3/7/3.. i tell you what.. i am gonna order some spare diffs, and start doing different setups, with diffs.. that way i can just change the diff.. not take it out.. change the oil.. put it in.. just take one diff out.. put another in..

[wyl03]

dgrobe - an extra diff is always handy to have around. u can swop it into the front or rear.
as u know, u can get the Kanai diffs on ebay, they are the same thing.

i'm on 5/5/1 now ... will look to try 3/5/1 next .. or even 5/5/2. 1 thing at a time.

[KanaiDude]

I think I'll try that also, I have two diffs I could build and swap out, would like to try 3/7/1 and 3/7/3 as my next setups, wish they were just a tad easier to change. I tell you I am hooked on panther tires now, am ordering two more sets of K'2s, the side bite in incredible, a pair of crime fighters barely has bite like that for a few runs.

[dgrobe2112]

i agree.. i am gonna get 2 more diffs. like you said.. ebay.. then i got the LSD also, Degani, said there is no reason to ever use the LSD diff.

Panther K2, are the bomb.. they hook up on almost every track...

[ExtremeDuty]

As a final phase of the assembly, I adjusted camber angles since following instruction created some ridiculusly big negative cambers.
Somehow, for front camber, I had to set two sides' rod length differently to achieve -1 deg camber. For rear, setting the same camber rod length created the same camber for the both sides.

Front camber rod length difference is about 1 mm; RHS is longer than LHS.
For last three days, I checked & rechecked over 30 times... :D (Yeah, I'm a chassis setup freak...since coming from on-road touring cars)

With my best measuring skill, there has to be 1 mm offset to get the same front camber angles. All the suspension parts are free moving and seem to be fine. I wonder there is a minor misalignment in suspension components...
Oh, I didn't use the wheel to measure the camber since there is no such thing as a truly flat & true plastic/nylon wheel. I used Hudy setup board & RPM camber gauge at the machined flat surface of axle/wheel adapter.


Another story:
I've searched a 1/8 buggy track around my town. There's none... Yes, None!
There is only one off-road track, which happens to be indoor. So, in conclusion, there is no place to race. Period.
So, my plan is to make a lot of money and make my own track within 20 years or so...LOL ;)

[dgrobe2112]

hahah.. good luck on the track.. will they let you race your buggy at the indoor track?

Dont know bout the off sized camber links, sounds weird.. i also heard that alot of people used the lengths in the book, now also, i found that the book is not a 1:1 representation of the parts, you actually have to have a set of calipers, to measure the distance between to get the right length for the car, thats what i did.. and everything was almost perfect.

[ExtremeDuty]

hahah.. good luck on the track.. will they let you race your buggy at the indoor track?

Dont know bout the off sized camber links, sounds weird.. i also heard that alot of people used the lengths in the book, now also, i found that the book is not a 1:1 representation of the parts, you actually have to have a set of calipers, to measure the distance between to get the right length for the car, thats what i did.. and everything was almost perfect.

I guess the indoor track must be a very small one built for electric.
I used a dial caliper. By following instruction's shock collar spacing & camber rod lengths, I got -3 deg front & -5 deg rear cambers. Camber angles are so severe that even naked eyes could tell that they were way off.

By the way, have you seen any, I mean any, car kit would have the recommended stock setup when you followed exactly what instruction says? I've never seen one. None of the setting was never close to instruction's base setup. This was why I bought Hudy setup system for touring cars.

Anyway, I'm totally lost now. I just got my life long dream car and there is no place to run it... :mad:
I will probably set it on my wife's china cabinet for a display.

[KanaiDude]

Bummer Extreme.........

As far as the setup goes I just eyeball it, it takes me a good half hour sometimes to get it where I want but it works pretty good, I tweak and tweak, turn the car around look at it from the other angle, retweak and tweak, I'm running about 1.5 degrees camber in the rear and about 1 in the front, with about 1.5 toe out in the front. With all the side bite from the Panther K2's I'm running just a touch more rear camber to compensate just a little for traction rolls. You guys running your sway bars pretty tight, you think they make alot of difference? Also on the shocks, I was running 1 big spacer, 1 med and 1 small spacer up front, and 1 big, 1 med in the rear, I switched that to just 1 big and 1 small in the front, and just 1 big in the rear, maybe help me with traction rolls again...

[JamminJay]

OK guys moment of truth I need your help.....
I am wanting to get a buggy which one? Here's my dilemma.

My friend has a K3 which has been raced for one season, not abused in good shape, then he has another one broken down for parts. Seriously it can build another one. Not too mention the roller has all racers edge and fiorini options on it.... all this for $350.

Or a brand new in box 777 for $320???

what do you say and why?

[KanaiDude]

I would say it depends on how serious you are about racing it. If you plan on racing it all year, I would say buy a 777, I had a very nice K2 and after all my friends had bought a new X5, or 777 I eventually had to get one really just to stay competitive in my mind, and the engineering on the 777 is overall much better then the original Kanai cars, but if your going to be a once a month weekend warrior maybe go with the K3. Remember though a non abused car that has been raced a whole year is going to require some wrenching and potentialy you can break something that is worn which can cost you a whole raceday. One of the nicest things about owning a new car, is exactly that it's NEW, you will have confidence in its parts and such for a good while before something might give out on it, in closing go with the 777!

[dgrobe2112]

KD, i space my car so the front arms are just above level, and rear right at level.. Also, i found out how to combat the on power push you were talkin about.. you can run it stiffer in the rear, or, more anti squat, if your running 2, go to 3, also, use the droop screws in the front. or less toe in rear. or higher castor in front. I am gonna try the droop screws, for less rear weight transfer.

Jammin, the K3 is a nice car, and i agree with KD on all his comments, the newer car, is a better car, for the simple fact, better engineering, better handling. The used K3, could be wore out arms, and sloppy, however, it has lots of hopups, which is always nice. If you are wanting to be competative, the cencus say, go with the newer car, and upgrade as needed, however, if its a local club race, running against ofnas, and other 7.5's, then i would stick with the beefier car. But if you are wanting to travel, and be competative, i wold get the 777. Either way, they are both nice cars, i had to get the 777, to get faster, i basically maxxed out on my 7.5, and the new 777, gave me that little bit more i needed.

[JamminJay]

KD & DG,

Thanx for the advice, alltho I guess i should say as of right now I only club race, maybe travel once I get better. But also the K3 is a close friend of mines and we have traded and stuff back and forth on many things. So it's not like I don't know the cars history or what it's been thru as if I was buying it on here from "Joe Schmoe." I guess what my concern was I always seen Kanai as the top plateau buggy, and I thought the 777 only fell in place as high as the mp7.5 on the buggy food chain, making it not as decent as the K3? On the other note, another friend I race with told me tonight when I asked him about my dilemma said the same thing as KD, when you buy a new car it is just that new.. you know how it was broke in etc. etc. but I still feel like I know the K3 well. :confused: Choices, choices? :confused:

[KanaiDude]

Jammin if you know the Kanai well, after you build the 777 you will see what we're talking about the overall design is much better. I am faster with my 777 now then I was with my K2, and just keep getting faster, in no way is the 777 inferior to any of the kanai cars, it is in fact better designed and lends itself to many more setup options then any of the kanai cars, the base 777 only lacks the bling that the kanai cars came with, but you can buy the special1 parts off ebay and upgrade your car as you see neccesary. I know it's a tough choice good luck with whatever car you get!!

[JamminJay]

Thanks for the reply, I am starting to think maybe getting the 777. Is this one all blue or does it have those gold suspension pieces like the 7.5? I thought those were so ugly and I would definately upgrade them. :D

[dgrobe2112]

the regular 777 comes with all blue stuff except for the rear anti squat plate, it uses the 2 degree anti squat, which is gold, other than that, all the other parts like towers, and radio parts, are blue. the SP1 comes with 3degree anti squat, which is blue, and alot of guys are going with the 2degree.. i bought the regular, and upgraded it, with parts i thought i needed. its a tough call, but i can assure you, the 7.5 is a good car, you could be fast with it, but to an extent, the 777 picks it up, and you can be alot faster with the 777.

[JamminJay]

Thanx, for the reply.

[Ribz]

well shes all done, only problems i ran into was the metal shavings in the fuel filter(good thing i looked!) and the holeshot eng. CF parts suck, holes dont line up right, scratches from where they were drilling the holes, they are thick and will get the job done, but for that kinda of money id expect more :mad: here are some pics :D

this was my solution for the tall airtronics servos, its really the perfect height

http://www.freepichosting.com/Thumbs/421591415/4/600/450.jpg

http://www.freepichosting.com/Thumbs/421591415/2/600/450.jpg

http://www.freepichosting.com/Thumbs/421591415/0/600/450.jpg

http://www.freepichosting.com/Thumbs/421591415/1/600/450.jpg

[wyl03]

looks nice dude ... but ... why did u upgrade the stock trays/towers? they're pretty good themselves :)

[JamminJay]

Well to let you all know I took your advice ... I got the 777 and a brand new engine coming. So my set up will be as follows:

777
OS RG .21 non pullstart w/ nova head
Jammin JP1 or )063 havent decided yet.
HS 5625mg throttle (already have)
HS 5645mg steering
JR XS3 (already have)

I know what your all thinking... an RG????? but let me explain myself, #1 like anyone else I am on a budget or I would get something else. #2 I only club race on an indoor small tight track, so this will be good, #3 for the price you cant beat it.. it's an OS what else can be said, reliable and hold a tune awesome... gotta love the Japanese.

[Ribz]

looks nice dude ... but ... why did u upgrade the stock trays/towers? they're pretty good themselves :)

mostly i like the look of CF, nothing wrong with a little bling :D atleast i have some spares now, its been along time since ive been on a dirt track ill probably need them :p

Jammin did you get the SP1 or the reg. congrats by the way, im very impressed with the kit, very happy! now if the rain would just stop id be very very happy

[wyl03]

nothing wrong with the RG. it's perfect for a small tight track.

if i can get one at a good price, i would :D

[JamminJay]

Ribz - just the standard kit. wont be here till next week.
wyl03 - yea the RG is a good small track engine.

2 questions about the standard so I can plan on what else I need while I'm waiting. What springs come with the car? and does it include the supersize kyosho fuel filter? Thanx in advance. :D

[AreCee]

Ribz - just the standard kit. wont be here till next week.
wyl03 - yea the RG is a good small track engine.

2 questions about the standard so I can plan on what else I need while I'm waiting. What springs come with the car? and does it include the supersize kyosho fuel filter? Thanx in advance. :D It comes with the fuel filter. Consider picking up a set of turnbuckles either Lunsford or Kyosho, they make tuning much easier. That's about all you really need to add in the begining. Eventually you may want to get universals for the rear and perhaps for the center but those are not really necessary. Pick up some diff fluids like 1, 3, 5 and 7K and shock oils. A low cost item would be the teflon shock piston in 1.4x2. The kit comes with soft black springs so you may want to pop for the blue ones.

[JamminJay]

Thanks. Also where online is a good place to get Kyosho stuff other than Tower and Ebay?

[KanaiDude]

I don't really know of anywhere else to get Kyosho stuff at a good price, Tower has 25 dollars off 150 right now, and you get free shipping if your in the supersaver club, is worth it if you order from them a few times a year. Ben88 on ebay is the best for kyosho parts, email him if its not listed he usually has it all. OSRG is a great bang for the buck no smart comments about it here. I would pick up the Blue springs they are very good.

Ribz I like your idea with the servo tray standing higher decent solution to one of the only problems with the car, and CF always looks nice but I agree with you on Holeshot I bought a set from them, and the front brace was wacked...

DG I had an awesome run this weekend, 3rd behind a factory xray driver and factory TTR driver WOOT!! Liking the 3/5/1 setup, and panthers are the key on loamy tracks with the 777... So I need to start getting a resume together, when you went for racers-edge did you have actual races and finishing position or what, PM me or right a little about how to apply for the rest of us, I know racers-edge is full but it goes for any company...

[KanaiDude]

Hey Ribz, I see you have a jp-1 pipe and a P5, if you run into any problems with to much power out of the turns and some fishtailing you may want to get the jp-2, that's what I did and it has helped alot, much smoother usable powerband, not so much on/off power, nice looking car BTW!

[dgrobe2112]

Yeah, the JP-2 pipe is pretty nice, i am running the 053. Seem to have lots of power everywhere, and really good mileage. but yeah, i agree, the JP1 had lots of power on the bottom.

Jamminjay, no one on here will say anything about the RG, you got what you could get, thats understandable, the RG is an excellent motor, and cheap to rebuild, makes tons of bottom end power, if you need any setup information, feel free to ask, we all got any info you need. I know me and Kanaidude, surf on here all the time, so you should get an answer quick, you did an excellent job on everything.

KD, sounds like your getting this hang of this car very well, its been raining here for the last couple weeks, i havent been able to race in a while. We will have a fun night tomorrow night, if we get some sun. gonna get on the track. i like the 3k in the front, havnet tried the 3k in the rear yet, not sure if i will, the LHS owner did.. and he didnt like it. if you want, email me at dgrobe@sturdisteel.com about the resume stuff, i can email you mine to use as a go by. To be honest, i was suprised to get it. Glad i did. Also, what i have done, is when a flyer is posted online, i save the flyer on my computer in its own folder, then when the race is over, i download the results, or copy them into WORD and save them. drop me a line, and i can hook you up.

[invsible]

ace-hobbies is a good place to get kyosho parts thats were i 95% of my stuff parts, tires, pretty much every thing............great service and good prices

[KanaiDude]

DG youre running an ofna 053? or a better brand? Rick my mod guys recomends the 053 pipe for pretty much everything, I just got his modded S7II and thats what he recomends for that as well as the P5, even though I think I will keep my jp-2 on that for now, i'll email you thanks for the info...

[JamminJay]

thanks Dgrobe, if I have any questions i'll ask you about them, your on my other aol names buddylist. you have been for a long time, I think last year you were selling a sprint car I really wanted or something, but didnt have the cash. maybe it was something else.

invsible, thank for the input on ACE. I will keep that in mind as well.

Sad thing is my car onr be together for a while. :( There so many things i want to get for it first, and in my opinion, might as well wait to put it together until you have what you want.... "Do it right the first time :D "

[dgrobe2112]

KD, yes.. i am running the Ofna 053, cant beat those prices. haha. yeah, i heard the 053 is a great pipe all around.. this is my first one.

Jammin.. yeah.. that was me.. i had a RC10 GT sprint car that i sold a while back. looked like Danny Lasoski's car. I kinda think you got the right idea on waiting.. however, i think that it would be good to get the car together, stuff like chassis braces, can be added as they get in.. they are easy to put on. But, i know what your talkin about.. got a buddy of mine.. did that with his.. wait and wait for stuff.. and 3 months later.. he finally got it together.. hahah

[JamminJay]

Yup thats the car.... and yup that will be me tooo 12 months later i'll get the car done ha- ha :D But I am taking my time and doing it right tho. I havent owned a buggy on this level before, I had a hyper 7 pbs, but that was as close as top end as I have owned, so this beast is gonna be sweet. Knowin' me i'll prolly make it so pretty I wont want to run it. :eek:

[JamminJay]

Geesh, I was the last one to post.....?

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone else has ever done this, will it serve the same purpose, etc.? As you may know I'm getting the std. 777, and even tho I'm on a budget I want something strong and reliable. Well Racer's Edge, Hardcore, and companies of the like are expensive. I was wondering if I could buy extra shock towers, and mount them together, as in use 2 together and the screws would hold them in place? would that work, or wouild it be gay? I just was brain storming and was curious if it could be done, cuz you can buy the towers for like $10 at Tower, beats the $30+ a piece for other companies.

[KanaiDude]

Jammin yea people come and go on here, me and DG are on pretty much all the time but have talked out just about every issue we've had with the car. On the shock towers, I would think it's kinda gay if I saw it at the track, maybe 2 Carbon fiber shock towers would look ok, but 2 stamped standard towers I dunno just shooting from the hip here. I don't think you'll really run into any durability issues with just 1 for long time, maybe save up for a while to get some racers-edge, or kingz there probably the cheapest but nicest after market ones, check ebay frequently also you can find some great deals on there, i've seen slightly used fioroni towers go for under 50 for both, also I think you get the special1 towers (not that much better then the standard) for less then 30 for both on ebay. In any case most any tower will stand up to abuse until it takes a massive hit, and then even the aftermarket ones will break.

[AreCee]

For what it's worth, the SP-1 towers is machined out of 7075 aluminum rather than stamped out like the stock ones from 6061 and should be as durable as any other 4mm 7075 shock tower. As you said those are available on ebay for $30 front and rear. I've nose dived on mine enough times that the anodizing has worn off. LOL!

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. the SP1 towers are excellent.. my hobby shop owner has the SP1, and had a runaway.. slammed it into a wall, literally broke the shock.. at the threads.. of the shock body.. the threads were still in the cap.. didnt bend a tower.. didnt bent the shock shaft.. but broke the cap off the shock body.. now thats tough..

Ebay.. SP1 shock towers.. cheap.. and very durable..

[Motorman007]

yes.. the SP1 towers are excellent.. my hobby shop owner has the SP1, and had a runaway.. slammed it into a wall, literally broke the shock.. at the threads.. of the shock body.. the threads were still in the cap.. didnt bend a tower.. didnt bent the shock shaft.. but broke the cap off the shock body.. now thats tough..

Ebay.. SP1 shock towers.. cheap.. and very durable..


DG till me u are not running into walls. lol

omg this going to be fun next weekend in waco.

u had your 777 for what 10 weeks now i will have mines together on the 19th. so please take it easy on a old man. and it will be my first time out with my truck too. so daddy please take it easy. lol

i pray it will be warm. please GOD. :)

[wyl03]

like what DG said, u can use the sp1's shock towers for a long, long time.

eventually, it MIGHT bend .. so what? take it off, put it on a flat surface/floor .. use a hammer to level it back. works wonders. cheap too.

[JamminJay]

why is it when I looked on Tower I thought it said both the std. and sp1 towers were only 2.5mm thick, maybe i'm wrong, maybe it was a typo, not sure.
anyways thanx again guess when the time comes i'll try to get them off ebay.

[JamminJay]

Is this not the sp1 shock tower? shock tower (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHMC3&P=Z)

[invsible]

i dont think your crazy, maybe tower is...............????

[KanaiDude]

That is the special1 tower, I believe the only difference is the standard is 6061 stamped, and the special is 7075 machined.

[AreCee]

I'm not sure what copy Tower used for the specs but both the regular 777 and the SP1 towers are 3mm thick. I just mentioned that the SP1 tower seems as durable as any of the 4mm after market towers. The SP1 is machined out of 7075 which is very strong and hardened. The stock tower on the 777 is also 3mm but is stamped out of 6061 which is a softer aluminum alloy and will bend easier than 7075. Also the SP1 towers are countersunk for a strength and a cleaner look, they also have more shock mount positions than the stock towers.

Bottom line is that you can buy the front and rear SP1 tower on ebay for $30 for both of them.

[dgrobe2112]

Dibbs.. it wasnt me.. it was Dwayne.. he smashed into the wall.. i hope the weather turns out nice.. the car is pretty good.. i got it very close.. just lookin for that 1 turn, or that one adjustment that makes the car that much better.

Ran some hot laps on the track last night. David Joor was down, he liked the track, he was flying.. turning 28 and 27's. The track will be fun, lots of room to race. Will be fun to see what happens when there is a full class.

Also, i tried the 40/30 on my Drake2. didnt really notice much difference. I am gonna swap it around now, and go 30/40 with it..

AreCee.. a friend of mine got the SP1 towers off ebay for 15 bux for both.

[JamminJay]

AreCee.... Ok I understand now. I just expected the sp1's to be thicker.

Wow, Dgrobe, we got alot in common. I have the first drake, had it for about a year now and love it. I also have a race ready TNX I am trying to sell. know anyone interested? :D

[Motorman007]

Dibbs.. it wasnt me.. it was Dwayne.. he smashed into the wall.. i hope the weather turns out nice.. the car is pretty good.. i got it very close.. just lookin for that 1 turn, or that one adjustment that makes the car that much better.

Ran some hot laps on the track last night. David Joor was down, he liked the track, he was flying.. turning 28 and 27's. The track will be fun, lots of room to race. Will be fun to see what happens when there is a full class.

Also, i tried the 40/30 on my Drake2. didnt really notice much difference. I am gonna swap it around now, and go 30/40 with it..

AreCee.. a friend of mine got the SP1 towers off ebay for 15 bux for both.


DG you should go back to 30/ 40

fro hooked my old xxxnt up when i was in tx for the indy race 4 weeks a go.

he had me put in 32.5 and 42.5 and it was new truck for real. open a lot of eyes that weekend. even at that new track.

all this talke and god is going to f me for sure. lol

please god take it easy on me next week.
hahaah


i had 3 all to myself and da## if my motor did not break in. lol flame 30 min in a 45 min main. i had 4th back maybe 1 or 2 laps. Fro kepted asking was it the same truck. lol
so i hope the the drake 2 will be the same in waco. this time i will not come in for gas like i did last time we race. you and eric time me out just right you dogs. this time i have something for you, but i may be wrong with that new radio and that new set up you will be on fire.

so what was your times on the that same track
28's too?

also get some Pics of the track you lazy dog. you really are trying to kick my butt. HUH!!!. lol

also what tires for truck and 1.8 u can get that out right? :)

[dgrobe2112]

i got pics fool.. check out sgrid.. my times were in the 29's.. i pulled a 29.1

[dgrobe2112]

truck.. is losi step pins.. buggy.. prolly K2's in medium

[invsible]

hey what does changing the castor do say going from 22 to 20 or even 17deg c hubs any body know?????

[dgrobe2112]

going down in castor, will decrease exit steering, but increase entry steering.

If you have an on power push coming out of the turns, go up in castor, if you have a push going into the turns, go down in castor.

so..22 degree = best exit steering, but worst entry steering,
20 degree = good exit steering, good entry steering
17 degree = worst exit steering, best entry

gotta decide what is best, depending on the track. i usually run 22's. havnet tried the 20's yet with the 777.

[invsible]

thanks ill try it tomorrow

[JamminJay]

ok Arecee....
I got a hold of ....88* on ebay. (i'm sure you know his name) anyway he quoted me a price of $68 hipped for the following: both F&R shock towers from the SP1, the set of blue springs, and a wheel & wing set from the SP1(yellow). But thats a non ebay price. As in just ordering them instead of the auction. What do you guys think? I thought that was still a pretty decent price? I sent out payment yesterday for my 777. I sent it 2nd day to TX, so he'll get it Saturday. At this time next week it will be here, but it will be hard not to start putting it together. I want to get a RcScrewz kit for it. Do you recommend this. I totally prefer the hex heads over phillips.

[dgrobe2112]

i do not reccommend the RCscrewz kit.. the screws are weak. and strip easy. www.racers-edge.com has a kyosho kit. check it out. Also, i seen on there that you can get the shock towers for like 20 bux, buy it now, and the blue springs, or bout that price also, if not cheaper. The yellow wing and wheels.. well thats just preference, i personaly like the white.. and the kit comes with those parts.

[dgrobe2112]

here is bens.. ebay for towers.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5949728919&rd=1


here is some springs.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=49213&item=5949352482&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

[JamminJay]

yes the yellow is just a prefernce thing.. I will prolly sell the white stuff on ebay or if you'd like as a back up you cn buy them from me... thanks for the racers edge tip. I'll check them out. I just know i use RCScrewz in my drake and like them.

..... yea i already have all that stuff on my watch list lol :D

[KanaiDude]

The screws that come with the kit are fine to use, I have an RCscrewz kit for my 777 and like it fine, the box is bigger then the kanai kit and there are more screws but DG is right I do seem to strip them sometimes, check out racers-edge first. I like the white also and the occasional gun metal, blue or orange from kyosho, never did care for yellow on my buggy my friends all do though.

[KanaiDude]

Stupid Winter Weather, I'll be racing HERE (http://www.carolinasrc.com/pictures/The%20Farm%202/2004.11.19%20Fall%20Nitrofest/default.htm) this weekend as long as it stays above Freezing :cool:

[dgrobe2112]

Well, i have not had the RE screw kit.. my friend ordered the RCScrewz kit, and i thought it was a nice kit.. however.. he complained of strippin the countersunk screws alot.. and pretty easy.. especially ones that were loctighted.. like the ones that hold in the chassis braces.. but he hasnt had any prob with the bigger 4mm screws..

The screws i got were from a company called Fastenal.. they had writing on the head of the screws.. and those have been great.. only time i strip one of those.. is if there is dirt in the screw hole.. and i dont get it all out..


So.. we are having a big race this weekend.. and we were expecting to get some out of towners.. and have round 40-50 show up.. turns out.. with all the talking.. and traveling i and my travel buddy have done.. people seeing us at their track.. they decided to go to our track for this race.. we werent expecting to have such a big response.. that we are expecting 80+ people... i hope everything goes off without a hitch..

[dgrobe2112]

KD.. that track is freakin huge.. i bet thats fun.. so.. i would think in cali.. there has got to be an indoor track somewhere.. lol.. same here..the weather is so crazy.. we are in the middle of the cold season.. and the weather looks like its gonna be in the high 60's low 70's for tomorrow..

[JamminJay]

Dgrobe2112-

If i remember correctly your nam is Dan? Well anyway about RC Screwz, If you dont have a good hex driver... you might as wll throw the whole kit away. I have used 3 of their kits so far the first one, I used some old ragged Wiha tools and had one H@ll of a time, stripped quite a few, but I knew it was the tools fault not the screws. Now I own those nice Team Losi drivers, havent had many problems since. Once in a while like you said with the dirt thing, but that's common place.

BTW, you said you like the white wings and wheels, if you'd like mine when my buggy gets here let me know. I'll give you a fair price on them.

[KanaiDude]

Rcsrewz for the 777. Just like DG said I have stripped out quite a few screws on the chassis braces, I don't think the size is right or they are just plain old weak. I use AE and Hudy wrenches on all hex screws. It is probably worth looking into an alternative as of now I replace a few of those size screws every few weeks as soon as I see them starting to strip to avoid having to dremel them.

Came in 3rd in the B main at a 60 buggy race with the very best representing multiple states some of the biggest names on the east coast (NC DG), was very happy with my buggy, I've got the consistency down just need to start pushing a little bit harder, am only seconds off the pace of the very best, WOOT for hard work!

[dgrobe2112]

Jammin.. thanks for the offer.. however.. i got a brand new one.. and your right.. alot of it comes down to tools.. i use Losi tools as well.. i think the main thing is the dirt.. and also removing them all the time.. they just get wore out..

KD.. congrats.. on the 3rd place.. thats what i got this weekend.. 3rd in the B.. i had 2nd easy.. but it got so cold here.. that i couldnt feel my fingers.. and i just couldnt drive the buggy anymore.. and got 3rd..

And your right.. i got the consistancy down.. just gotta work harder.. and push harder..

[Venom2U]

RC Screwz are just plain junk. They are too soft. And they will strip out with no provocation. If your having problems try ----> www.hexcrews.com (http://www.hexcrews.com/)


You will never go back to RC Screwed!!

[Tucker01]

I'll second that. I have a couple of the HexScrews Hex Heads kits, top quality, and very nicely packaged.

[KanaiDude]

Thanks for the info guys I might have to pick up a set of those hexcrews.

Hey guys if your planning on racing in any cold weather definitely have AT LEAST one extra set of lower front arms, I broke 1 on each side within 30 mins this weekend racing in 35 degree weather. We were just practicing and we came back the next morning to some light rain in that cold and packed it up and went to the indoor track down the road, about 150 people indoors LOL... At least they had good ventilation and lots of torpedo and propane heaters. Hopefully the weather will be good enough this weekend to get my rain check at that big track, it was like an RC playground there fricken hugemongous can almost notice a delay in your servos...

[Motorman007]

Jammin.. thanks for the offer.. however.. i got a brand new one.. and your right.. alot of it comes down to tools.. i use Losi tools as well.. i think the main thing is the dirt.. and also removing them all the time.. they just get wore out..

KD.. congrats.. on the 3rd place.. thats what i got this weekend.. 3rd in the B.. i had 2nd easy.. but it got so cold here.. that i couldnt feel my fingers.. and i just couldnt drive the buggy anymore.. and got 3rd..

And your right.. i got the consistancy down.. just gotta work harder.. and push harder..


D good job on your 3rd place.

[dgrobe2112]

Thanks dibbs.. sorry bout your luck with the lap you missed.. your car looked good.. wont be long till you got the hang of that thing.. whats your next race??

[JamminJay]

Guess what came in the mail today? Yes- my buggy. Man I'm stoked... Glad i took your guys' advice and bought a new kit instead of, buying my buddies used car. Even tho his car was nice ith alot of hop ups.... theres nothing like the feeling of opening the box of your own brand new kit. :D This is the first "new" buggy I have owned. Looks decent but I'm glad i plan on getting my own tires cuz I think the stock ones suck.

[JamminJay]

Dgrobe2112-

I been reading alot of your posts on the set up your using. Was wondering if you could help me with mine. I already have the whole selection of oils and diff fluids.. well not 2k, but I got 1k,3k,5k,& 7k. Most people at my track run either Panther Switches or 1/10 Losi Taper Pins (pinks) and cut them and fit them to 1/8 scale wheels.
Anyway, the track isnt considerably big, & its indoors. Its almost a blue groove track, smooth, slick, hard packed surface, with loose dust. you can check out pics in the link below. Theres not "one" decent pic of th whole track, so you'll have to kinda line them up and imagine the layout. My Local Track (http://www.rcpimp.com/rc/messages.pimp?thread=5581)

Thanks for any set up help.

[dgrobe2112]

well.. i think there are alot of different tire choices to choose from.. treads has some good high bite tire choices for indoor tracks such as yours..
Cubic, Jollies, and also Proline crime fighters or cell blocks.

The best thing i could tell you for setup in diffs and shocks.. i used on an indoor track.. was 60/35 also.. 50/30 worked pretty good. track was bumpy.. so i moved to the inner hole on the rear arms..

Diff setup.. was 3/7/1 seemed the best.. i tried 5 in front.. but pushed..

also, i dialed in alot of front brake.. alot more than normal.. and this car seems to work better with more front brake than i am used to running.. my 7.5, i almost had no front brake.. so i could get the rear of the car to slide around..

Also, for a high bite track.. the higher upper block.. lowers the roll center.. so it will help on high bite smooth tracks.. however.. your track is pretty tight.. i would keep the standard block that the book tells you to run.. you dont have a whoop section.. more of a rythem section.. so i would go with 60/35 in the oils.. 3/7/1

[dgrobe2112]

I think you are on the right track.. get a good selection of different oils.. so..if i were you..i would get a good selection of shock oils also.. here is what i got in my box..

60, 50, 40, 35, 30
Start at the book setup.. with 60/35.. and 3/7/1 the book setup is very good.. for the 777..
then try different things.. experiment some.. and see what works for you
your track looks great.. nice and smooth.. see what others there are running for tires.. i dont see any ruts.. track looks nice..

When you try different things.. make sure you have some differnet setup sheets.. so you can go back to how you had it if you dont like it..

start with 1 setup sheet.. mark down your setup.. then run it.. take notes.. of what the car does.. then if you want the car do do soemthing.. change 1 thing.. like.. if you want more on power steering.. you could go down in rear toe.. or.. go up in castor... and so on.. but only do one thing.. then have another setup sheet.. mark the new setup on there.. run it.. and if you like it better.. keep it.. and go on from there.. keep your standard setup sheet.. so you can always go back to it.. if you get to crazy..

Also.. when you go to different tracks.. your setup may not work.. so you will want to go back to the standard setup.. and do more testing.. and then.. you got a high bite.. indoor setup.. and a different outdoor fluffy setup.. and so on..

[JamminJay]

Thanx for the replies... I know most people run either the switches or taper pins I mentioned on this track. I just wanted to know what set up you thought would be good there. This is the only track I race at right now, I mean it can't be beat. it's only about a 1/2 hour from me, it's the only offroad nitro track we have here in winter (Michigan) the people there are great, and they change the track layout every month or so, so it's not always the same. but the surface is. And your description for set up, is what i used to do with my drake, use several set up sheets... now I pretty much know the right set up finally and don't change much from week to week. But I havent ever set up a buggy to run there and thought you could get me close to a decent set up. As far as shock oils I have 20,25,30,35,40,50,60 I use GS oils for shocks and diffs. As for the track yes its fairly tight, and does get a little rutty here and there.

Anyway, thanx again.

[Motorman007]

Thanks dibbs.. sorry bout your luck with the lap you missed.. your car looked good.. wont be long till you got the hang of that thing.. whats your next race??

Thank you D.

i was started to get the hang of it. by the last Q.

i know for sure i had 5:11 or 5:13

first Q 5:30
2nd 5:23
all i know it was getting better


Steve was 5:17 and as u see i was .04 faster than him to the loop.

over all i love the buggy to be the first time out i made the B. but got placed in the wrong main b.c. i did not get counted. and the software would not like wayne change it. i did not want to bit##. plus it was cold and i need to get back to OKC asap.

i can tell you this the
buggy was planted just like i like it but with steering. i almost miss the boat waiting for the New hyper but it will be apirl or may before it will come out. i need PT now. lol


you already had a 4 months on me with the buggy D. i can't let you get other 4 more months on me. then i would never be able to keep up. hahahah



not sure what race i will go next. i need to get some PT here first then i will come out again.

i made it to waco in 4 hours from Oklahoma. and got lost for 1:30 min trying to find the track. hahah.

[dgrobe2112]

lol.. thats not bad time.. i am gonna try to make the Houston Invite in a couple weeks.. when i first got the car.. i was so suprised at the steering the car had.. it was crazy compared to the 7.5.

Also.. my buddy Tommy Rushton went from hyper7 to the 777, and he cant be any more happy with the buggy.. he said its night and day..

[Motorman007]

lol.. thats not bad time.. i am gonna try to make the Houston Invite in a couple weeks.. when i first got the car.. i was so suprised at the steering the car had.. it was crazy compared to the 7.5.

Also.. my buddy Tommy Rushton went from hyper7 to the 777, and he cant be any more happy with the buggy.. he said its night and day..


D it is night and day man.

i had my hyper pro at home.

get this

no motor, no servo's ,no fuel tank, no tires or rim just a motor and pipe it was a 1.5 lb heavier than my full loaded 777 with tires and all.

and the droop is just crazy on the 777. even with me cut down my droop stops on my H7 the 777 had crazy more droop vs the H7.

but what got me was the weight.

i maybe crazy but it feels like this 777 drivetrain is much smoother than all my other Kyosho buggies.



this buggy really fits my style of driving much better than my H7.

the key to all this guys is find what works for you. i don't care what it is but you have to find. man it may be crono or a storm.


at the same time it does cost money to do this, but if you want to be on top of your game then you want let that hold u back.

dibs out

[KanaiDude]

You guys do much tire cutting? I've got some medium/soft panther K2's that im going to cut the outside tread at a 90 degree angle, seems like alot of guys do this, the tires have so much traction you can afford to trim a little to help with traction rolling through turns making for a smoother and faster line. I'm using the 22 degree hubs right now that gives better exit steering? The 20 degree hubs would give better off power steering when your creeping around those hairpin turns so you could take the inside harder?

[dgrobe2112]

i doont do any tire cutting.. i know alot of people do.. but im not that good enough to know what would happen if i did..

22 give better on power steering exiting the corner
20 give better off power entering the corner

[nigru]

I have just bought the Mp777 together with the OS VZ-B v-spec. With the car a 15tooth clutch was included which for this engine seems to small as the tires are spinning all the time. If I add 1 tooth only so a 16 tooth clutch bell, will I notice any differnce or I should add more?. Another question- I have a 4 battery pack of 2000 mah. My charger gives an output of 250 mah. How much will I give it? thanks

[dgrobe2112]

nigru.. a 15t clutch bell.. wow.. thats tall.. did you get the car used?? did they change the spur gear?? stock should be a 46/13 which is pretty good for just about any motor.. some guys who run high RPM motors.. like a WS7II will run a 48/13 for more bottom end. i run a 46/14, for more top end on my P5.

Also, a 4 cell battery pack will only provide 4.8v of power to the servos, which in nitro offroad.. isnt enough, you really need to get a 5cell 6.0v battery pack.

I dont really understand the question.. about the charger..

[Ribz]

i think he is asking how long you would charge it? if you are, it would be 8 hours, just divide the mah of the battery(2000) by the output of the charger(250) i would also strongly suggest getting some 6v packs

well guys i finally got to get my 777 dirty(on a track) :D im so happy with the car, its amazing, so easy to drive its unbelievable!! i have nothing to compare it to really. the last time i was on a track was about 7-8 years ago with a rc10gt that i still have as a basher. i only got to drive the 777 for about 3 tanks when my receiver took a crap, the only part on my car that wasent new(besides the radio) go figure

im going to get into racing, i have 3 tracks within 20 min of me, so im way excited and my confidence is way up with my first outing to the track, i took my wife and son with me to share in the shame of my driving, but except for loosing a tire down the straight on my second tank everything went real well, by the second tank i was was actually making it around the track at a decent pace, there was some RTR electric so i had to be careful, i tapped him a few times but i would hate to see the aftermath if i hit that thing full speed lol

i want to thank you guys allot im using mostly setups from here, when i have a little more time ill post what im running, but thanx allot guys, first time on the track and i need to make zero changes until i get better and more constant

[dgrobe2112]

congrats on the new car.. you will love it.. and you will love racing.

[Ribz]

what plugs are you guys running in your P5s?

[dgrobe2112]

I run a medium plug, or a medium hot plug.. Novarossi 6 or 5.. Racers Edge medium #4

[KanaiDude]

I run pretty much the same sometimes a little hotter, RB platinum #5, Novarossi 4-5, mcoy 59, In the hot summer I will run a little colder but no more then a 6.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. normally a medium will be fine..

[wyl03]

i've been fiddling around with the car set-up for the past few months but alas, at the end of the day, tyres probably make the biggest difference.

get a good set of tyres and you are more than halfway there.

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. definitly. tires are the main thing.. most of the time.. that will be all that needs to be changed.. but i think there is something said before.. that tires are like 90% of the setup..

[dgrobe2112]

kinda dead in here.. i guess not too much racing going on.. i havent got to race in 2 weekends.. cuz of rain..

[invsible]

im going racin sat. and next friday im leaving for hemet ill be their for a week at the nirto challege

[dgrobe2112]

Pavidis posted a setup for the nitro challenge.. not sure if you seen it yet.. but i will post it here.. lotta different stuff..

777 Starting Settup for Hemet Nitro Challenge

Front:
60w
-1.4 pistons
-Blue Springs
-Front shock location in the upper middle hole in tower / inside hole
in arm
-22deg caster blocks
-A block
-Lower upper arm position
-Short upper arm (Inside hole in 3 hole caster block)
-Std front sway bar
-4000 front diff oil
-Steering ackerman in the back hole in steering rack (Increases
ackerman making the car turn a little smoother)
-Front ride height is with universals "slightly" above level

Center

-48 tooth spur gear
-6000 center diff oil (for bumpy track which hemet usually is)

Rear

-30w (or 35w if temp is warm)
-1.4 pistons
-Blue springs
-Shocks are mounted in very outside upper hole in tower / inside hole
in arm
-Rear camber link is outside in hub and upper hole in tower (to
increase rear traction. For the car to pivot more on the rear move rear
camber link down one hole at a time)
-3deg rear toe
-2deg anti squat
-rear hubs spaced one spacer in the front with two spacers in the back
( this will shorten the wheelbase slightly but this will give the car
the correct amount of dogbone sweep the car needs. To free the rear of
the car up move hubs back. For hemet hubs back might be ok.
-Rear ride height is universals level
-std rear sway bar

Clutch
-3 shoe Kyosho carbon shoes(with tips of shoes slightly cut)
-1.0 springs
-13 tooth clucth bell

[dgrobe2112]

and here is a link to a setup sheet that Dibbs wrote up.. for that setup..

http://momentoffame.com/photopost/uploads/1093/hemet12_9.jpg