Inferno MP777

[Motorman007]

and here is a link to a setup sheet that Dibbs wrote up.. for that setup..

http://momentoffame.com/photopost/uploads/1093/hemet12_9.jpg


also here is the rest of it.

Mark Pavidis response 817 of 824: Feb 9 14:00 EST 2005

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Paul - the settup sheet that was posted by James is correct as far as
the rear camber is located. If I mover to the outside row of camber
holes it will increase the camber during the travel of the supension.
This would allow the car to rotate very fast thru corners which the 777
allready does.

Trace - sorry the rear diff oil is 2000

James - the clutch springs are 1.0 not 1.1
I have a smaller eyelet than the stock one that allows me to
run the short upper arm with about 2 deg neg. camber. You can dremel
you stock one down by about 2mm. This will give you the right amount of
room to get 2 deg neg camber.

The chassis is also 4mm thick (Fioroni)


windellm
Matt Windell response 818 of 824: Feb 9 14:49 EST 2005

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Mark - Are you running the stock chassis braces or the Fioroni?


pittbull
James Dibble response 819 of 824: Feb 9 15:40 EST 2005

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is every thing else right then?

toe out

camber angle

rebound? lenght?

how much out or in on the swaybar

rear hub position upper hole or lower hole

in the upper block

u have the A bushing
Holder L
bushing L or H?

under A block


thanx for your time Sir


windellm
Matt Windell response 820 of 824: Feb 9 15:55 EST 2005

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The setup said A block with low (L) block. You should be running A
bushing with A block?


rcmark
Mark Pavidis response 821 of 824: Feb 9 16:04 EST 2005

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Matt - Fioroni chassi braces

James - toe out 1 deg
camber 1 to 2 neg
I am not sure on the rebound or shock length for droop I will
have to check
Sway bars are set at the end of the ball
Rear hub is in the lower hole(furthest from bearings)
I have "A" block with "L" bushing

[KanaiDude]

I think Feb. must be the deadest month for RC in my parts anyway, I did race last weekend, came in 3rd in the A at a smaller club race, still not bad behind 1 factory sponsor and 1 50% sponsor. I'm probably going to buy a Revo, man that truck looks sweet, think i'm going to pick up the new OS TM .18 and some 40series bow ties, should be a bad ole truck, so I've been surfing monster truck threads alot here. The 777 has been treating me well still, need to push it a little harder, push push push it's like having a baby sort of LoL...

[dgrobe2112]

KD.. the Revo is so much fun.. i ran one at our local race.. recently.. and got 3rd.. behind Steve Slayden and another guy who been racing MT's for a while.. and the revo i was using was bone stock except for the tires.. Panther's..

I also heard that the 40 series bowties are not that great on the revo.. something to do with offset.. and alot of guys werent using them.. however.. they were using the Response tire that Traxxas offers.. much lighter.. and very similar to a bowtie..

The ones that the guys are using here are the Panther, dang.. i cant think of the name.. only downfall to the tire they say.. is its pretty heavy.. compared to the traxxas tire..

[KanaiDude]

Yea the revo looks like a blast i've been over on the traxxas forum reading alot. Some guys are running 40's with the fronts cut back a little but it does seem like too much trouble to grind away at the rims. But yea it's all about saving weight, and those 40's are like 6 oz. heavier, the response are the lightest, but some are liking the panthers there rubber just seems better, I'll probably go the panther route for racing.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. i think they are called the python or something.. but yeah.. the revo's are alot of fun..

[invsible]

thanks for the info

[Toycar]

I remember a previous post about the three hole caster blocks but no one really tested them out to get a feeling for what each does. I know the inside hole the one closest to the chassis is the same as on the 7.5 because it's in the same position as the one on my K3. Why I'm asking is I've just put the 3 hole caster blocks on my K3 for added tuning adjustments.

[Little_Horn]

In the 3 hole caster blocks, the middle hole is the same as on the 7.5 (not the inside one). The outside hole is the same as the 777 standard caster blocks, and the inside hole is a new one. But to use the inside hole, you need the new shorter upper front arms.
In the past, ppl complained that the 777 steering was a little unstable. The new hubs solved the problem. So, if your used to a mp 7.5, try first the middle hole.
Miguel Matias (2nd place in the worlds) used the inside hole in the finals and he did a great run. A stone stoped his engine and he made it from 10th to 2nd. So, as you can see, the car was really good (and so was the driver... ;) ). But as I said before, you need shorter upper front arms, or else you will end up with a pretty stranger camber angle.

[KanaiDude]

Cam in 3rd AGAIN this weekend, I guess I am ok with this black cloud 3rd place finishing. Things were a little different this weekend though, super competitive A-main, I am running 4-5 first 10 mins and flame out OMG, loose about 20 seconds, come back and get on the throttle, finish in 3RD! After the race I see one of the guys who always beats me, I say what happened shmuck thinking something really did go wrong with his buggy, he says good race Brian, I'm like what I beat you straight up and I flamed out, he didn't look very impressed. Moral of the story today practice+wrenching+money=good finishes. Still looking at that Revo is pretty tempting...

[dgrobe2112]

KD.. good job.. and i wouldnt consider 3rd place.. a black cloud.. hahah.. I raced 2 times this weekend.. once indoor.. and hated it.. i never do good at this indoor track.. dont know if its the layout.. or what.. but i cant never seem to find a good rythem.. or anything at this track.. not just my buggy.. but my gas truck too.. never seems to work.. oh well.. i was pretty down on my buggy and stuff after Saturdays indoor ass whoopin i took.. then took it out sunday, and the car was totally on rails.. i dont know.. the car was so good.. i couldnt of asked for anything else.. got 2nd.. by a last lap pass by the winner.. and its usually us racin for the win.. but he usually always wins.. and im cool with that..i just shoot everyweekend to beat him.. once i start doing that.. then i know im fast.. cuz he is A main caliber at all the big events.. and here recently i been really close to beating him straight up.. same as you with with the guy who always beats you.. now you are beating him.. you know your getting better..

BTW.. My buddy has a REvo with the Panther python wheels and all that.. he is gonna sell.. he has raced it like 3 weekends.. and thats it.. if your interested.. be something liek 400 with all the spare stuff.. forward only kit.. close gear ratio and stuff like that.. everything he has for his revo.. spare springs.. and stuff..

[Motorman007]

KD.. good job.. and i wouldnt consider 3rd place.. a black cloud.. hahah.. I raced 2 times this weekend.. once indoor.. and hated it.. i never do good at this indoor track.. dont know if its the layout.. or what.. but i cant never seem to find a good rythem.. or anything at this track.. not just my buggy.. but my gas truck too.. never seems to work.. oh well.. i was pretty down on my buggy and stuff after Saturdays indoor ass whoopin i took.. then took it out sunday, and the car was totally on rails.. i dont know.. the car was so good.. i couldnt of asked for anything else.. got 2nd.. by a last lap pass by the winner.. and its usually us racin for the win.. but he usually always wins.. and im cool with that..i just shoot everyweekend to beat him.. once i start doing that.. then i know im fast.. cuz he is A main caliber at all the big events.. and here recently i been really close to beating him straight up.. same as you with with the guy who always beats you.. now you are beating him.. you know your getting better..

BTW.. My buddy has a REvo with the Panther python wheels and all that.. he is gonna sell.. he has raced it like 3 weekends.. and thats it.. if your interested.. be something liek 400 with all the spare stuff.. forward only kit.. close gear ratio and stuff like that.. everything he has for his revo.. spare springs.. and stuff..


So D Indy Killed your butt from the sound of it? it is something you have to get use to for sure. on the gas and hard break to make the next turn.

and your motor needs to be on top of his game. i had to fatten my top end maybe 2/8 or 3/8's and lean the bottom about 1/2 a turn. to get that bottom end i need
i was thinking of trying a 48 spur there this weekend and a 13 or 14 bell. and some other cool stuff i had working in my head for that track.


as you see u have to change your set up for indy tracks. your outside set up does not work at indy. i had to get a little help from some of the local guys there. set up wise. but after that i was in there.

and for truck you should have been in there for sure. indy is a truck track first.

what was wrong with your truck?

[dgrobe2112]

well.. first of all.. we got there late.. mainly cuz i forgot about the 635 exit off i-20.. and we didnt get to the track till bout 5:15.. we also left pretty late..and the traffic was horrible up there..

They closed the track at 5:30 for the drivers meeting.. so i wasnt even setup and ready to start by the time they had the drivers meeting..

My heat races were #2 and #7 of 7 heats.. so.. i had to turnmarshal.. then race #2 heat, turnmarshal.. well you see what im talkin bout..

First round.. with truck.. well.. i made about 1/4 lap.. missed judged the double double right in front of the stand.. well.. first double.. i landed wrong.. broke a captured end.. all on the first lap.. of practice.. so missed that race.. still no track time..

buggy.. well.. i felt ok with it.. wrong tires i think.. crime fighters.. that were wore out pretty quick.. 2nd heat.. MikeB told me to try panther kamoto1's.. so i did.. and they were better.. just didnt have any track time.. and the buggy just didnt work very well at all..

Again.. gas truck was good.. raced in the 2nd heat.. wiht no track time with it.. just kinda learnin the track.. where i could and couldnt push.. and got faster as i went on..

and the main.. well.. same thing.. got around 3 laps in.. and popped off a rear ball cup.. i had to go fix it.. cuz my pitman wasnt paying attention.. so i ran down the stand.. got my truck.. fixed it.. lost 2 laps.. and then after that i was just getting out of the way of everyone..

[Motorman007]

Wow I did not know you guys got there that late man.

Then you broke your truck in PT. man. U had some bad luck for sure.

K1 or k2 SS work super there.

So how did u end up in buggy?

It seems you never got a hang of the track?

With no PT it is hard to step on that track and do well. I always try to get there at Noon and run as much as I can. By 5 all the locals show up and u get on track time..

Cya soon.

U going to the Pro race in H-town?

[KanaiDude]

Hey DG why is your friend selling his Revo? is it the same ole not enough time for two classes syndrom I am trying to get over? Does it come with alot of extras pm me his email if you think it really is a good deal thnx.

[dgrobe2112]

Dibbs.. i ended up in the B main in buggy along with guys like Mark Davis, Tim smiley, and other pretty fast guys.. i think i got like 5th or 6th.. just an overall not happy night.. couldnt get the buggy to stick at all.. wasnt happy at all.. so.. i basically just kinda gave up.. but thats really it.. never got the hang of the track.. and with the buggy not handling well.. i just never could find the right line.. and yeah.. truck broke on the first warm up lap for my heat.. go figure..

KD.. yeah.. he is selling it.. cuz he wants to focus on buggy.. and he said has no time for 2 classes.. not sure about what extras it comes with.. and i think it is a great deal.. i raced it at the Ice Breaker Challenge here and got 3rd with it.. in its basically stock form.. with the panther tires.. and stuff.. i think it comes with an unpainted body and everything.. along with a beat up stock body.. he is very **** about stuff.. so its in really good shape.. he replaced some wore out shock ends.. with more stock ones.. i think they need aluminum ends.. i will send you his email address..

[KanaiDude]

So DG can I get your opinion about running two classes, your running gas 10 also correct? Do you think this ever inhibits your buggy driving? Even though we tell ourselves if something happens don't worry about the truck just focus on buggy, but even when things are going good do you think you have enough time to study peoples lines and truly due as well as possible in buggy when also running your truck? I guess it depends on how big the race is and how much time you have in between heats, if your talking a 20 heat race it is no problem, but when your talking just 5-6 heats, 3 1/8 scale, 1 gas10 and 1 MT, that is when it gets tricky? Do you think it will do any good in your overall standings, say I start winning in MT and Buggy do you think sponsors would take any harder a look placing well with 2 vehicals?

[dgrobe2112]

uhh.. i dont know.. i run 2 classes all the time.. the only problem there is.. is learning a different vehicle.. going from gas truck to buggy, is totally different. throttle control is different, on each, and the handling charictaristics are different for each also. So, at club races.. you dont have time to study lines and stuff.. but then again.. there isnt that many fast guys at the club level with me.. just a couple.. and we are racing together anyway..

When you go to big races.. you have plenty of time. So, you can race 2 classes, and still be able to work on each.. and all that. I think the 2nd class makes the day go quicker.. however.. you got alot more stuff you gotta tote around.. more parts to buy, more wheels and stuff.. but, i dont think it inhibits the buggy, it gets me more track time, and more experience..

Bout the sponsor thing.. i dont know.. of course if your winning in MT, or Gas truck.. you will get noticed as well..

[Motorman007]

Guys I’m in the same boat. I just dropped 1300 on a buggy and a new truck. And I would love to run both at my home track but if we don’t have enough people it Is hard to do.

KD if there are 5-6 heats like you posted I would say I would not do both. But if they are more heats and more time I will run both. I know here in Oklahoma when we just have 1 heat of truck and 2 heats of 1.8 I run my truck. Reason why is b.c. I feel I learn more from my truck then I do my 1.8. and D said it “throttle control is different.” I feel you learn way more throttle control than you do with 1.8.

But when there are no trucks I run 1.8 and try to use what I learned from my truck and use it on my 1.8.

In truck you have to pick a nice clean line. In 1.8 you don’t have to. Which in turn makes you not as smooth as some of the top drivers in your area.

Anyone can drive a 1.8. not a lot of people can drive truck and be happy.

I love truck it seem easy for me to drive, but at times can just push you over the edge if you don’t have the right tires.

And D needle it.

(but, i dont think it inhibits the buggy, it gets me more track time, and more experience..)

At big races I say yes run both. U get way more track time than the guys that run just one class.

D knows Mike B. he runs MT, TRUCK, 1.8. look at how much track time he gets.

9/10 he wins one or all the class in week race.


But when things go bad for you they can go bad fast. If you don’t have focus already and know who to let S#$# go then you should not run two classes.

This is just my thoughts about 2 class some may have other views about it.

[Motorman007]

[QUOTE=dgrobe2112]Dibbs.. i ended up in the B main in buggy along with guys like Mark Davis, Tim smiley, and other pretty fast guys.. i think i got like 5th or 6th.. just an overall not happy night.. couldnt get the buggy to stick at all.. wasnt happy at all.. so.. i basically just kinda gave up.. but thats really it.. never got the hang of the track.. and with the buggy not handling well.. i just never could find the right line.. and yeah.. truck broke on the first warm up lap for my heat.. go figure..


yeah D i seen that. i looked over the list and and i know you 3 are fast. but some days are not your day. and with no PT it makes it even harder to do.

Mark called me that night and was not happy too. i ask what he do. from that week when i was down. and it was just one week a go.

i ask him about diff's shock oil.

well his shock oil was wrong that day. he forgot he changed it that day i was there. it was warmer that weekend than it was this weekend. and he changed his shocks.

and he took that same set up and went to jakes on sunday and he did even worst. called me that night and we went over it again. this time his diff was not as fresh and his shock was more up right. so what i'm saying is get a indoor indy set up, and a waco set up and a jake set up.

all the fast guys change set up for each track even if it is something small.


Look at mark P set for Hemet..

it is almost set up shock wise like a losi.. rear shocks all the way out and front just one hole out. and a 48 spur with a v-spec.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. i agree dibbs.. it just takes time.. and that day i didnt seem to have any that day..

But, i think gas truck make you a better driver.. also KD, if you have another class to mess with.. think of it like that.. you are more serious about the buggy class.. you can go out there in the other class.. and just find the line.. basically.. its like slowing down.. using the Revo, or Gas Truck, as a practice car.. to go run the track.. learn the line.. that sorta deal.. we have only 3 heats here local this weekend.. but i race both anyway.. stick time.. the more stick time you can get with a certain car.. or a certain track.. the better.. so.. yeah.. and think of it like this.. if you got a Revo.. there is always that option to run both.. you dont have to.. but you could if you wanted too.. And those Revos are fun as heck.. if you want to take a break from racing.. or want to have an off weekend.. but still want to race.. leave the buggy at home.. and go race in the fun not so serieous revo class.. :)

[Motorman007]

thats it fun. run the fun class that you don't care about and run it like D just said.

that way you are not so serious.

don't forget these are toys. and you first need to have fun.

[KanaiDude]

Agreed I think you guys helped me make the decision to go ahead and get a Revo, I doubt I will ever leave me buggy at home, I did it once and drooled the whole race. I think it will help me see the lines better and will probably only run it when there is more then 5 heats but sure will be fun to get to the track an hour earlier for Revo time. Thanks for your inputs guys much appreciated as usual...

[nigru]

Hi,all. Next Sunday I am going to have a race with my mp777 but in an onroad circuit not off road. This cars handles good in an onroad circuit too, but I'id like someone to tell me some detailed settings( clearance, chamber angle etc). Can someone help me please. thanks

[dgrobe2112]

well.. i would assume you would try to set it up like an onroad car.. use your droop screws.. limit the uptravel of the suspension.. dont slam the car.. i would put it level all around.. but.. i wouldnt do much changing.. depending on the type of track.. prolly go with -2 camber.. keep the stock toe out.. stuff like that.. get some ole wore out offroad tires.. i got a perfect set for you.. my breakin tires.. :)

Im not too good with onroad.. but also.. put some zip ties on the head.. and maybe some black foam on the top of the front towers.. so you dont scratch them up too bad..

[buggyman17]

if only i could get a 1/8 scale buggy...
if only i had $750 bucks in my pocket!!!!

[dgrobe2112]

or 319 for one from www.ultimatehobbies.com

[nigru]

As I have said before, I am using the buggy as an onroad racer. What tires do you suggest me? I am now useing the Proline tires but I want to try some ather brands. Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

the only onroad tires that i know of for and 1/8th scale is the road rage tire.. but.. i run some old wore out offroad tires..

you could try proline Crimefighters.. but.. i dont know..

[AreCee]

Look at Ace http://www.ace-hobbies.com for on road 1/8 scale tires for 1/8 buggies. Try OFNA.

[nigru]

Thanks, I think ofna are also good if not better. The problem which I am facing with the proline tires is that their compound is a little bit too soft and have the tendency to produce cuts on the edges. I have another problem with on road racing. The car has tendency to slide too much from the rear end. I am using #5000 Weight Oil all round. Is this my real problem??

[dgrobe2112]

if the rear is wanting to slide around.. is that on power?? if its on power sliding the rear around.. you may try the 3degree toe block.. that will reduce that. Also, you may try 20 degree hubs as well.. to help reduce that.

Also, thicker oil in the rear, reduces rear traction in the corner.. you my try going down to 3k in the rear.. see if that helps..

[Ribz]

ace also has foam tires for 1/8, that might be a soultion for you too?

[KanaiDude]

Well I was almost in the lead this weekend, nipping at the heels of number 1, pretty much get out my way im going to win this race. I'm comming down the straight full speed and another driver gets tossed out of pit row right next to me, and guns it full speed right into me, breaking front lower arm and front shock body at the base of the cap threads OMG! I said something to him on the drivers stand like I guess you could care less that just happened, and he says its not my fault my pit man threw me down then. In Nascar I highly doubt the drivers just tear threw pit row without a shoulder check? Oh well another lesson learned steer clear of pit row if possible. Revo on order!

[dgrobe2112]

wow.. that sux KD.. i dont understand why some people dont use pit lane.. thats what it is there for.. drive down pit lane.. dont throw the cars out into the middle of the long stretch.. oh well.. that sux about the shock thing.. same thing happend to our LHS owner.. he broke the cap off.. and the threads were still stuck in there..

[tlong]

http://www.nitrofactory.com

[Lapster]

Hey guys, havent been here for awhile. Its nice to see things have been going well. I raced my 777 last weekend for the first time in about 3 months. It went pretty well, it was on an indoor track where we had to run slicks(never been there before)... but it was fun. I qualified 5th out of 31 which was decent. In the main I somehow got the holeshot. And held onto first for the first 3 minutes. At the 3 minute mark I was ahead by a straightaway and after the first turn there was a huge table top... you ad to peg the throttle all the way thought the corner to get to the downslope... I hit the jump and when I landed my car just took off. It jumped a pipe and hit a wall going around 20mph I would guess. I thought my throttle servo plug might have been partially unplugged by the harsh landing... but it was someone who was comming into the race late and they forgot to switch their frequency. I bent 1 shock shaft and cracked a wheel. I was pissed... but it sure was a sight.

BTW, has anyone tried the Fiorini sliding clutch?

[dgrobe2112]

Hey guys, havent been here for awhile. Its nice to see things have been going well. I raced my 777 last weekend for the first time in about 3 months. It went pretty well, it was on an indoor track where we had to run slicks(never been there before)... but it was fun. I qualified 5th out of 31 which was decent. In the main I somehow got the holeshot. And held onto first for the first 3 minutes. At the 3 minute mark I was ahead by a straightaway and after the first turn there was a huge table top... you ad to peg the throttle all the way thought the corner to get to the downslope... I hit the jump and when I landed my car just took off. It jumped a pipe and hit a wall going around 20mph I would guess. I thought my throttle servo plug might have been partially unplugged by the harsh landing... but it was someone who was comming into the race late and they forgot to switch their frequency. I bent 1 shock shaft and cracked a wheel. I was pissed... but it sure was a sight.

BTW, has anyone tried the Fiorini sliding clutch?

Ahh.. man.. you gotta hate that crap.. srry to hear bout your luck.. but looks like the car is pretty dialed for you.. i have had bad luck on indoor tracks.. i got a big pro series race this weekend.. indoors.. went and got some good setup help from some guys.. hopefully it will be a good one..

[JamminJay]

ok I got a problem, I have this OS engine that I want to use in my 777, but it has the stad threaded crank which was cut. So I'm thinking no problem right? I can just get a SG clutch nut right? well here in lies my problem with the kyosho flywheel, the threads dont go far enough for the nut to lock down against the flywheel. What do I do? I have a tap, die, thread set, can I just cut my own threads farther on the crank? Or do I have to replace the crank, and if so, will the sg crank fit in place of the threaded one. Neither mine, nor the sg is a pullstart engine. BTW it's an OS RG. Thanx for your help

[gotspeed_2000]

ok I got a problem, I have this OS engine that I want to use in my 777, but it has the stad threaded crank which was cut. So I'm thinking no problem right? I can just get a SG clutch nut right? well here in lies my problem with the kyosho flywheel, the threads dont go far enough for the nut to lock down against the flywheel. What do I do? I have a tap, die, thread set, can I just cut my own threads farther on the crank? Or do I have to replace the crank, and if so, will the sg crank fit in place of the threaded one. Neither mine, nor the sg is a pullstart engine. BTW it's an OS RG. Thanx for your help


It sounds to me like you have enough thread on the crank to screw down the SG clutch nut down, but there's too much space left between the flywheel and the new clutch nut so it bottoms out before really locking down the flywheel. If this is the case, you can buy Ofna's clutch shim kit and shim the flywheel away from the motor case so you can lock down the flywheel. Hopefully this is the case and you would still be able to use the existing flywheel. If there's too much thread left on the crank and that's the reason for it not locking down, you could always cut some threads off the crank so that it doesn't bottom out so early. Maybe take away 2 or 3 threads at first just to see if that solves your problem. I would try the ofna shim kit first though. After using the shim kit, you would also have to check how the clutch bell gear matches up with the center diff drive gear. Make sure that the amount of shims did not move the clutch bell too far to the front of the car so that the center gear doesn't rub up against the clutch bell itself. Sounds like this OS RG was used in a .21 powered tmaxx? Good luck.

[dgrobe2112]

jammin.. what gotspeed said.. i would get a shim.. the thicker one.. to put behind the collet on the crank.. which will space the flywheel away from the motor some.. and be sure that the crank dont have too many threads.. could you cut more threads off the crank, and get it to work?? I dont know bout the recutting the crank.. i guess you could do it.. and see if that works..

But, yes.. the SG crank will fit right in..

[JamminJay]

Thank you for the responses, especially dgrobe, for the fact of letting me know the sg crank will go right in there, in case i decide to go that route. A shim kit behind the flywheel would work, if you can/or if it's safe to shim it like 1/8" - 3/16". The clutch nut does not bottom out, the threads just stop. Thats why I asked about cutting more threads in the crank, since I have a thread cutter. I have posted pics so you can see what I mean. Th first pics shows the distance between flyheel and nut, the second one shows how the threads end too soon.

btw- IF it is safe to shim that far, can you please tell me the part # or a link to what I need? Thanks. :)

[JamminJay]

pic #2

[dgrobe2112]

Jay.. thanks for the pics.. that helps alot.. and by the looks of thing.. you will need one shim behind the collet.. so the flywheel will clear the carb easier..

also.. that is a big gap.. do you have the collet on there in pic one?? under the flywheel?? the collet is a piece that looks like this / \ that goes over the crank..

put a shim, then the collet.. then the flywheel.. see how much gap you got..

I think you could Probably thread the crank.. but i dont know.. that looks like it would be tough.. and thats alot of gap to have to fill in.. your may be better off doing the new crank.. lot less headache.. and stuff..

[dgrobe2112]

but i dotn know if i would run that many shims behind the flywheel..

[dgrobe2112]

oh.. and one more thing.. you may look into getting an Ofna Flywheel.. that may work for you..

[JamminJay]

Yes the collet was on there, I found the shim kit online, and it seemed all it was is some washers am I correct? well I took a quarter, drilled a hole in it, and tried that, it took up the gap fine, and I torqued the clutch nut down as tight as I could against the flywheel, but when the psiton got to the top of the stroke, the flywheel would slip, and spin...... arrrgggggg. I think since the new crankshaft is only like $33, I think thats the way to go. :(

[Lapster]

Ahh.. man.. you gotta hate that crap.. srry to hear bout your luck.. but looks like the car is pretty dialed for you.. i have had bad luck on indoor tracks.. i got a big pro series race this weekend.. indoors.. went and got some good setup help from some guys.. hopefully it will be a good one..

I am very pleased w/ the car now. Over the summer it was a learning curve, I always tried what I though would work... stuff that would work on an electric car does nothing for a 1/8 buggy... I would say I have had a 300% improvement in my ability to track tune my buggy... I am so excited to start outdoor again. I hate telling people my ride height it 4mm... onroad is killing me.

And sorry for bugging any of you guys about this... but have any of you dudes tried the sliding clutch?

[KanaiDude]

I tried it, didn't care for it to much, on one side of the clutch there are two springs and the other size one spring, I always had trouble with one of the two springs popping out and locking up the clutch bell. I had a few of those large washers to hold it in place like your suposed to, but I am sure it was a shimming problem I tried for a while but gave up on it. I am loving mugen alluminum shoes and kyosho 1.0 or 1.1 springs great combo.

[Scrad]

I was thinking about picking up a standard 777. I already have a K2 with some hopups and I wanted to know how compatable are the 2. I.E. Torsion bars, cvds and such. I plan to use the K2 for spares if it will work out. Also how do you like the 777 over a K2, for those that had both. Thanks.

Chad

[wyl03]

i have both K2, 777.

some parts that fit :-

front shock bodies.
All Diffs
knuckles

the front lower arms are supposedly different (from moulding) but the 7.5 one fit the 777 when i borke my 777 lower arm and had none to spare.

the 777 rear shock bodies are longer than the 7.5's.

i haven't measured the CVDs.

i raced the 777 on grass once, and absolutely loved the steering.
i am still working on the best set up for our local track - dusty, loose, bumpy.

[Scrad]

What is a good starting setup for a dusty loose track for the 777? I need to order some diff oil. Thanks.

[KanaiDude]

3/7/1 F/C/R is a good starting setup with standard gears in the front. This will work well on a dusty loose track. I would also recomend getting some Komodo2's in Med/Soft compound as the 777 has a bit of a loose rear unless you have some good tires. If you have a really high traction track you could try something more like 5/7/2. 60/40 shock oil and a decent amount of preload spacers on the shocks, my front end is a little above level and my rear is level. I tried taking some spacers out once and my car handled terrible in the rough, 777 seems to like a stiff suspension.

[dgrobe2112]

KD is right on.. maybe 2k in the rear.. i have not tried 2k.. cuz i havent got any.. and cant find it..

I tried alot of setup stuff this weekend.. and was very pleased with the results.. my car was really loose.. on an loose track.. mind you.. i changed alot of stuff.. front stayed the same.. however.. i ran 50 in the front.. seems to handle the rough much better with 50 in the front..

changes i made to the rear.. i went to 3deg in the rear toe.. really helped the car.. i was thinking it would give the car a push.. but it really made getting on the gas alot better.. i am thinking of getting the 1/2 degree hubs.. for the rear.. and running 3.5 degree rear toe.. i was really pleased iwth that..

also, i moved the rear camber link to the upper inside hole in the tower.. that was pretty good also.. then, i went and ran the short wheelbase on the car.. that helped a ton.. really planted the rear of the car.. more predictable on power.. i was pleased..

My car has worked alot better and has not been this good in a long time..

[invsible]

hey guys im starting to have a pbroplem with my ws72 it has flamed out at my last to races (1 of them being the nitro challenge) it runs about 220-240 with 30% odonnall fuel and ive got about 6 gallons on it and it still has good pinch any thoughts???

[KanaiDude]

LSN to lean? Clutch bell bearings? What type of plug are you running? I personally like to set my idle a tad high for mains as when I'm pitting sometimes my pit guy will slam my car down after refueling without letting it clean out, is that ever the case that you just let it bog down and flame out? Maybe try and give us a senerio where it flames out and we can help more!

[invsible]

no its kinda fat on the bottom clutch bearings are new i run the rb 6 plug i spoke with rick at rb mods today he said sounds like its time for a rebuild i was hopeing to avoid that $160.00 piston/sleeve/rod price tag but i guess i gotta do it ..........oh and it flamed out at about the 4-5 min. into the main ..........damn these toys :)

[dgrobe2112]

invis.. also.. with 6 gallons on the engine, even though it has good pinch.. dont mean its not wore out.. cuz when the engine gets up to temp.. the sleeve expands.. and you lose that compression.. when you come off the track.. and kill the motor.. feel the pinch then.. you will have a good guage of the actual pinch of the motor.. also.. pinch is not really what tells if a motor is good.. or whatever.. depends on the compression.. and even then.. the pinch dont have to be that great.. my buddy has a P5, which, when you pull the glow plug out.. the motor turns over very easy.. with the plug out.. but.. when he puts the plug in.. its very tight.. thats good compression..

also.. when engines get older.. they take more RPM to keep them running.. i had to slowly turn the idle up after i got about 5 gallons on my WS7II.. take it out, run it.. get it up to temp.. bring it in.. let it idle.. if it wont idle.. then raise the idle some.. i like my engines to idle.. i dont want it dieing on me.. so i tune the engine, on the track.. get it running good..and bring it in.. if it sounds like it is wanting to die.. i turn the idle up some.. not so the car is rolling.. but turn it up so there is a good idle on the engine..not too high.. but so it dont want to sit there and stumble on itself..

KD is right.. clutch, is a big thing.. if your clutch springs are wore out.. that could cause the engine to run fine.. but yet.. want to die on tight sections of the track..

[dgrobe2112]

also consider getting the motor pinched.. you could send it to RB mods and see if he can squeeze the engine for you.. he does good work.. a squeezed piston and sleeve.. is alot cheaper than a new piston, sleeve, and rod..

[invsible]

true, ill figure it out thanks for the advice

[gigacrush]

hey can anyone tell me how strong the c hubs are on the mp7.5 rtr do they hold up also is there a metal one i can by.also the hubs them selh are pot metal can i also upgrade them to alluminum and who makes them.
i have a kyosho giga crusher and that is aminly why im asking they use the same parts

[dgrobe2112]

your talking about the castor blocks right?? well.. i seen some aluminum castor blocks.. but they are rare.. www.racers-edge.com has some rear aluminum hubs.. you can get them from their website.. or go to www.amainhobbies.com

But i dont know bout the front ones.. also.. racers edge has the front knuckles.. that are aluminum..

all racers edge parts are hard anodized.. which hold color better.. and the hard anodizing is just a little bit tougher..

[eb4flys]

does anyone have a blank set-up sheet for the 777 special1 as kyosho dont have one on their site, pdf format would be great, thanks in advance
michael

[Motorman007]

here you go super man

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/download/setting/index-e.html

dibs

[invsible]

fioroni has castor blocks but they are 17deg and are blue try www.ace-hobbies.com

[invsible]

hey guys who has the best prices on rb engines (ws72) i need to order one today and my boys at ace are out right now

[KanaiDude]

I know these are a litle high, but the mod work is top notch, and he could get it to you in just a day or two. I have his modded S72 and apparently it is a better modded engine then the WS72 is something about the way the crank is cut at the factory. Rick can make a mod S72 scream past a mod Ws72 anyday, alot of pros run the s72 also, as it has just a little more bottom then the W. Email him and ask him for yourself he usually replies same day.
RB mods (https://rbmods.net/rbshop/product_info.php?products_id=36&osCsid=91350455ad34d394eaf61c5ab8097096)
I've been running his mod p5 for a few months it is incredible, 210 degrees for 8-9 mins with insane power and idles very well, he is quickly becomming a mod king. The S72 is a little high at 330 since you can get one for 200 and send him 90 to mod it, but the WS72 isn't to bad at 390, cause it's a 300 dollar motor and the 90 dollar mod, you would not be dissapointed with his work, you will notice a big difference in overall performance.

[invsible]

ive heard alot of good things about his work but a couple people said they dont get much life out of his engines how much fuel do you have threw yours?

[KanaiDude]

I have about 4 gallons through mine and it still has alot of compression and is pretty hard to turn over, I have been doing very well with it stepped up my game quite a bit. I expect to get another gallon or two out of it before I put in my new S72 mod. Go to Neo-buggy.net and look on there forum there are alot of people running his mods with nothing but good things to say. I have someone ask me almost every race day what motor im running and tell me that thing has one big ole bottom. People that only get a few gallons are not breaking there motors in and running them the way they are suposed to.

[Lapster]

Hey guys, one general question. I am going back tot he clay track I went to a few weeks back... any general tips on how to reuce push on clay? Just for an idea, the hot tire is M2 crime fighters ground to slicks.

[dgrobe2112]

Lapster.. you have a push.. is that on power?? off power?? enter, exit.. gotta know.. i know on the last track i went to.. it was an indoor track with alot of clay.. but.. it had a lot of sand on it.. so the track was slick.. just had to slow down some to keep a tight line..

I did alot of stuff, and this is the setup that worked best for me..

Front
50 oil, shock in the upper inside hole on the tower, inside hole on the arm
stock positions for the upper and lower blocks
3k diff oil

Center
7k diff, with 46t spur

rear, 35 shock oil, upper 2nd hole from the inside on the tower, lower outside hole on the arm. (GO TO THE INSIDE HOLE, FOR MORE STEERING)
upper arm, was upper inside hole on the tower, outer hole on the hub
ran full short wheel base, by putting the spacer behind the hub, (put more weight over the rear tires.. for more rear traction
2k diff oil
3 degree toe block, more planted on power

[Lapster]

Off power comming into the turn was excellent. When I was exiting on power is where I suffered the most. Thanks for the tips.

[dgrobe2112]

use 22 degree hubs.. in front.. also, try a 2.5 degree toe block.. that will loosen the rear end some.. help it come around on power..

[JamminJay]

Started minor assembly of the buggy last night. ordered my chassis braces so they should be here in a few days. Do you guys recommend buying Lunsford turnbuckles and CVD's right away? Also I was reading in a earlier post about drilling shock pistons? what is a good starting set up for an indoor blue groove, hard packed clay track, relatively small, and tight, 100x80 I believe? Thanks.

[JamminJay]

Also, will the 7.5 rear toe in blocks work on a 777?

[dgrobe2112]

Jay.. the CVD's.. dont need them right off.. however.. i do suggest getting some turnbuckes.. also.. go to www.ebay.com look up Ben88 he has the SP1 towers for cheap.. if you email him and ask.. he is the cheapest one i found.. also rc_pro_shop is a good seller also..

Indoor blue groove.. here is the setup i used..

Front
Diff-3k
Shocks-50wt
L block
A block
22 degree hubs
stock shock positions
middle hole on ackerman
middle hole on hubs (upper arm)
1 deg toe out
-1 camber
full droop
dogbones level

Center
7k

Rear
Diff-1k
Shocks-35wt
stock shock locations
stock camber link locations
hubs- 1 small shim behind, 2 thick in front
2 deg antisquat
3 deg toe in
-2 camber
droop slightly limited
dogbones slightly below level

that is my starting setup..

If the track gets slick.. then i go to the upper inside hole on the shock tower for the upper arm..

also, if the rear is really loose.. i try different things..
2k in the rear diff..
and also try a shorter wheelbase (more weight over the rear end)

This is for Indoor.. tracks..

[JamminJay]

Thanks DG... yea looks like ben 88 hasn't had anything up for a lil bit, I have him on my fav's and check from time to time. I'm glad you said 3/7/1 on the diffs, cuz thats what I put in them last night. Wanna hear something funny tho? I was filling the rear, 7k, and it was taking forever, going slow out of the bottle, and I use GS diff fluid. Ever seen their bottles? where the nipple or nozzle or w/e you call it is, that comes off, like most fuel bottles, it's just kinda pressure fitted on there so you can remove it to fill it or what not. Well, anyway, it was taking forever, so I squeezed the bottle harder, and I guess I went passed the stress point and that nozzle thing popped off and I had about 1oz of diff fluid all over my hand, table and the diff. :D So, I had to sit there with a knife and scrape it back into the bottle....none the less, the rear diff is full. (had to dump some out)

[dgrobe2112]

it says you were filling the rear, 7k, and it was taking forever.. well.. you shouldnt be putting 7k in the rear.. hahah prolly just a typo..

the MP7.5 rear toe blocks do not work on the 777, well.. let me rephrase that..

they do work, however, you have to use the mp7.5 squat plates at the same time.. i cant remember.. which.. but i think the mp 7.5 is just a tad wider, than the 777, in those aspects.. so.. if you use say.. the 3 degree 7.5 plate.. and use the stock orange mp777 plate.. you wont have 3 degree of toe in the rear.. it would be more..

[JamminJay]

ooops yea that was a typo, it was the 7k, but it was the center, I had my mind on something else when I typed that.... thanks on the info for the toe blocks... guess I'll just buy the 3* for the 777.

BTW.... DG, since I know we both race the Drake & I will be racing this once finished, I'll show you my pics of the bodies I painted up for spring. Don't laugh tho, this is the first paint job I have done using masks, so it's not reall technical. all my other bodies were just one color or basic fades. I'm still new at the airbrush thing :o . waiting for the flourescent yellow that I ordered for the nose of each. And the pics quality sux, but you get the idea. Maybe I should start taking pics outside. anyway, here's the link: http://www.angelfire.com/rings/jamminjay1722/scheme/index.album?i=0

[Scrad]

Could someone tell me how long the rear cvd's are? Could I use the fronts on the 777 for the rear and my K2's on the fronts of the 777.

[nitroburnr]

The MP 777 Spec 1 weighs more than the Kanai K3. What makes it a better buggy than the K3? Anyone out there that owns both, which do u like better?

[Scrad]

Could someone tell me how long the rear cvd's are? Could I use the fronts on the 777 for the rear and my K2's on the fronts of the 777.


Nevermind my rear K2 CVD's fit fine. They just looked too short.

I have ran into 2 problems building the kit. First thing I have noticed is that the upper front arms move back and forth on the hinge pin. Is this normal for the 777?

Second whenever I have my rear diff installed the drivetrain has a tight spot in it and when it gets to that spot sometimes the rear drive locks up a little. It also sounds like the diff gears are slipping or grinding. If I loosen the top 2 diff houseing screws it is better. I tried shimming the diff differently and didn't notice anything. It feels like the input gear and the ring gear on the diff aren't matched very well. Like the ring gear is not perfectly round. Maybe I didn't get the gear flush with the diff case. I will check it tomorrow. But are there any other ideas?

I also noticed that my K2 racers edge front chassis brace didn't fit, so I drilled a new hole in the chassis to make it work. The rear was fine.

[dgrobe2112]

Nevermind my rear K2 CVD's fit fine. They just looked too short.

I have ran into 2 problems building the kit. First thing I have noticed is that the upper front arms move back and forth on the hinge pin. Is this normal for the 777?

Second whenever I have my rear diff installed the drivetrain has a tight spot in it and when it gets to that spot sometimes the rear drive locks up a little. It also sounds like the diff gears are slipping or grinding. If I loosen the top 2 diff houseing screws it is better. I tried shimming the diff differently and didn't notice anything. It feels like the input gear and the ring gear on the diff aren't matched very well. Like the ring gear is not perfectly round. Maybe I didn't get the gear flush with the diff case. I will check it tomorrow. But are there any other ideas?

I also noticed that my K2 racers edge front chassis brace didn't fit, so I drilled a new hole in the chassis to make it work. The rear was fine.

The front chassis brase is not supposed to fit.. but if you drilled a new hole.. and got it to fit.. thats great.. the rear is supposed to fit..

Now.. on to your problem..
1. there shouldnt be a whole lot of movement.. what some guys have done.. is use some spacers in there.. to limit the front and rear movement.. mine moves.. everyone elses moves also.. i have not tried to limit that yet thought.. so i dont know exactly which size spacer to use..

2. the grinding you are getting.. i am almost 100% sure.. is cuz you are trying to spin the rear of the car, or the rear drive train with the arms at full droop.. if so.. thats why they wont spin very freely.. cuz the dogbones.. (which i am betting you are using) get int a bind with the drive cups from the diff, and the ones in the outer hub.. if you put the arms level.. i bet everything spins nice and freely.. i had that same exact problem.. until i put universals in the rear.. but until you do that.. you will have to limit the arms so they dont go to full droop..

NITROBURNR...
I have owned both, along with a few other guys on there.. Kanaidude will be able to justify this also..

the weight of the 2 cars.. while different. is not much.. however.. the performance difference.. is amazing.. some guys like their K3's and K2's.. and went to the 777 but didnt like the 777 cuz the rear was so loose.. and went back, or went to Xray..

The MP777 has SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much more steering than my 7.5 ever even thought about having.. it feels better on the track also.. i have had to learn throttle control with the 777 and steering.. the car will get away if you drive it too hard.. which is what i like.. i like to be able to drive the car.. the 7.5, was a point and shoot.. i had to drive it hard.. into the turns, with alot of rear brake.. and slide the rear around.. and gas it.. to the next turn.. with the 777, its nothing like that.. and i am faster.. but i feel like i am slower.. cuz i am not driving the heck out of the car..

the new front end geometry, allows for alot more adjustability, with the upper hingepin, and all that.. if you were around here.. i would let you drive mine.. just to show you the difference..

[Scrad]

Yeah I noticed that it was worse at full droop. But I can pull the arms up level and it still feel a little notchy. So don't think it is just my universals. I'm not using the kit dogbones btw.

I have figured it out. I had to remove all of the shims on the ring gear side to move the diff gear farther away from the input gear. I think the mess was just to tight and the gears aren't perfectly round.

[dgrobe2112]

Yeah I noticed that it was worse at full droop. But I can pull the arms up level and it still feel a little notchy. So don't think it is just my universals. I'm not using the kit dogbones btw.

I have figured it out. I had to remove all of the shims on the ring gear side to move the diff gear farther away from the input gear. I think the mess was just to tight and the gears aren't perfectly round.

Yeah.. the gears also gotta break in also.. it will get smoother after you run it a couple time.. mine is like silk now.. but i got a few gallons on my car now..

[JamminJay]

DG, thanks for the pm reply last night, after I bought the cvds I found that they would work. Also you said I should get turnbuckles as one of the first hopups... are the sp1 buckles any good? how do they compare to the lunsfords?

[KanaiDude]

Well I had an interesting weekend with a double header. The first race was at the Farm2 massive track, placed in the B main out of 80 buggies only to loose my car in a dust bowl and flame out on the side of the track bummer, still happy to make the B with some pros... 2nd raceday, ran my revo and buggy for the first time, struggle to keep them both on there tires, TQ'd and won with my Revo Woohoo!!! had some people not to impressed with my first run on the truck LOL. 8th scale was a different story, had two OK runs and was getting frustrated that I ran both classes, on my 2nd run I barely made it over the finish line and thought my carb was bad, well my glow plug popped and ruined my mod P5 ! So I miss 1 qualifier we have 4 at our local track, and hit the track with my brand new mod S7, brand new motor and I pull the 12 laps needed to make it in the big show woohoo! So I'm warming up for the A and bust an A-arm in practice race day over, it was fun winning MT though! So i've broken like 3-4 front a-arms now, 2 at the pin, could this be from running my sway bars to stiff and putting more pressure on the arms? I also heard there is a (b) part for the front arms that is better.

[fanke19]

Hey guys...I painted up a couple of new Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer 2.0 bodies for the 777. On my old Hot Bodies Lightning Pro1, I used the Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer 1.0 for the MP7.5 and they fit perfect. I forgot about the 777 being narrower, and as a result, the CP 2.0 bodies don't fit well on my new Hot Bodies Lightning Pro2. I found out the Ofna Hyper style CP 2.0 fits this body much better. So, I'd like to sell them together, but I'm only asking to be reimbursed for the cost of the bodies ( free paint ) if anybody would like to make me an offer on these team painted bodies?

Click the small pic for a larger image...

http://www.f19motorsports.com/custompaint/Jan-13-2005-f19/Jan-13-2005-f19thumbs/Jan-13-2005-f19-016.jpg (http://www.f19motorsports.com/custompaint/Jan-13-2005-f19/Jan-13-2005-f19-016.jpg) http://www.f19motorsports.com/custompaint/Jan-13-2005-f19/Jan-13-2005-f19thumbs/Jan-13-2005-f19-018.jpg (http://www.f19motorsports.com/custompaint/Jan-13-2005-f19/Jan-13-2005-f19-018.jpg)

More detail pics HERE (http://www.f19motorsports.com/custompaint/Jan-13-2005-f19/Jan-13-2005-f19.html)

Email me (fanke19@yahoo.com)

[wyl03]

KD - the new B part for the upper arm is just slightly shorter. that's all.

[ILuvMyB4]

ok. who would say that a 777 is better than a RTR mayhem? im thinking about getting a 1/8 and i cant really decide. and im on a pretty short budget. the mayhem is about the most expencive car i can get right now. sooo...

any suggestions on which to get? mayhem or 777, or a different one to start out with that i can start racing with hopefully soon after lots of practice.

[KanaiDude]

I have a few friends with Mayhems and they are pretty nice cars, I would put them right under Kyosho and Mugen, tied for 3rd with maybe TTR, Jammin and Xray, I just think some of the parts are a little subpar compaired to Kyosho and Mugen, my friend has all kyosho universals on his mayhem. You can get the base 777 for less then 400 though and it's an awesome car.

[JamminJay]

You can get the base 777 for less then 400 though and it's an awesome car.[/QUOTE]


Yes B4, if you go to Ultimatehobbies.com and get the phone number, call them and order the 777, it's only $320 including shipping. Great deal

[aaronb73]

The front lower arms have been revised since the kits were first released. Part number: IF301B

[invsible]

titanium center shafts on ebay for $40.00 for the pair what do you guys think about ti. instead of steel for univ.????????

[KanaiDude]

aaronb73 thanks for clearing that up I need to make sure I get the updated part because it's starting to irritate me, this is not an OFNA buggy!

Invisible - do you know who makes them? sounds good, but I never have had a problem with the unis, I might replace my centers after 6 months of solid racing because of some play, but i dunno if titanium would fix that or not.

[invsible]

some place in canada, just thinking less weight to go with the lightend spur gear

[dgrobe2112]

KD.. yes.. the newer arms, are designed more beefier, out of different material, the new B arms, are not shorter, if you get the same part number.. however.. Kyosho has released a new set of shorter arms, to be able to use the inner hole in the castor block.

What has been said.. is.. use the upper shorter inner arm.. and use the stock longer outer arm.. you know what im sayin.. upper inner arm on the tower.. use the shorter arm.. and use the stock ball end piece that attaches to the castor block.. best of both worlds.. can use all 3 holes i think.. with that setup..

[Scrad]

Does anyone here run a RB S7 or ws7. I will be recieving both of them in a trade. What is the differences between them. Also the s7 needs a new piston and sleeve, where could I find one cheap. And could I put the new ws7II piston and sleeve in the s7? Thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

scrad.. the WS7 and the WS7II, are the same motor.. the only difference, is the crank.. they cut the crank of the WS7II different..

You can put a WS7II piston and sleeve in the S7 motor.. also.. since you have 2 complete motors.. you can get a S5 piston and sleeve.. have a 5 port, bottom end motor.. and a WS7 top end motor.. just an idea..

[Scrad]

scrad.. the WS7 and the WS7II, are the same motor.. the only difference, is the crank.. they cut the crank of the WS7II different..

You can put a WS7II piston and sleeve in the S7 motor.. also.. since you have 2 complete motors.. you can get a S5 piston and sleeve.. have a 5 port, bottom end motor.. and a WS7 top end motor.. just an idea..


Cool thanks for the info. I think I will try to get the S5 piston and sleeve. Since the track I race at isn't too big. Will it work with the s7 crank?

Where is a good place to get the piston and sleeve? I've looked around, but have only found a few places that I usually deal with, like Ashford.

[JamminJay]

Has anyone ever seen these chassis braces or tried them. I picked this set up, and recieved them today. them seem to be very good quality. They are from and made in HK, by a company called R/C Dragon. machined well, featherlite, and the blue matches almost precisely. Just wondering if anyone had any input?


Also, who all here runs the stock rods? (turnbuckles) Have you had any problems running hard and them bending or breaking? I know DG said I should, and I want the Lunsfords but can't afford them right now. Any input on these? ...... Thanks.

[JamminJay]

^^^^^^ let me be more specific, sorry.... I mean the kit rods, not the sp1 gold ones. ;)

[AreCee]

I swapped out the kit rods for the gold ones before building. I just like using turnbuckles rather than straight threaded rods. The Kyosho turnbuckles cost a bit less than the Lunsford and if you get the tie rod set then ball ends are included.

[KanaiDude]

I've never had any problems with the gold turnbuckles, I don't see them as a needed hop up I've never bent one in 2 years of running k-cars, maybe to finish off and bulletproof your car, but there are other things to spend money on, clutches, motors and tires oh my!

[Ribz]

i just replaced the stock rods on my 777 with lunsford ones(hing pins too), i had no problems with the stock ones, i did bend the plastic ball end on one but just bent it back, the stock rod was fine but the CF shock tower exploded, holeshoteng sux, i should have just thrown the money in the trash =\ anyway id say the stock black ones are plenty ridgid, just a pain to tune

[JamminJay]

Ok, heres another ?... man, i feel like a pain in the ***, but I guess thats what these forums are for huh?

Anyway, anyone here running craddock brakes in the 777? do they work good? worth the upgrade? thanx.

[Ribz]

i replaced the brakes last week with the crad reg ones, i had to add a little brake to the f/r when i did it, actually i added a little to much, ive been getting the rear end up in the air after a long straight lol, stock ones are fine for me, id be interested in what others have to say also, maybe they have less fade on long runs? and are you still useing the rubber pads with the fiber discs?

dude i think everyone is willing to help out, otherwise like you said there wouldnt be much of a reason to be here =)

[JamminJay]

Ribz- thanks for the response, actually I'm not using anything ***yet***. I am just now assembling my car, buying things lil by lil as I assemble it, since I already race a Drake, alot of extra $ goes into that right now, I am building the car for summer and next winter season. I just saw the craddocks were pretty reasonable and thought about picking them up.

[Toycar]

I broke my left front 20 degree caster block. Anyone know the part number for the new design 3 hole upper arm version not the single upper arm one? I couldn't find it on the Towerhobbies site they only listed the single hole upper arm version. Thanks.

The plastic on the 777 parts are lighter and stiffer than the 7.5 but I find it more brittle and breaks much easier. I have the 777 front lower arms and 20 degree caster blocks on my K3 and both just broke on the left side as I landed from 8 feet with a slight nose down atittude about 20 degrees. On landing it was at a dead stop ('crack'), dug in and flipped over onto it back. I know this a hard landing with the buggy absorbing alot of energy with the nose down attitude but I've landed countless times in the past like this with the original K3 arms/caster blocks and it held together. Infact, I was running the original 20 degree caster blocks until I switched to the 777 ones a month ago. I know the original arms break too but I was acceleratng WOT and at about 25 mph hit another guy breaking my left front arm as my left front contacted his left front, he was going the wrong way on the track and he was going about the same speed.

[JamminJay]

The plastic on the 777 parts are lighter and stiffer than the 7.5 but I find it more brittle and breaks much easier.


Welcome to the wonderful world of R/c, 95% of the time if it's lighter and stiffer, it's gonna snap easier, such as the case in graphite, it's stronger lighter and more rigid, but it snaps instead of flexing some like plastic.

[KanaiDude]

I love my craddock brakes, I had all kinds of issues with the stockers until I bought them. Don't use any pads with the craddocks just metal to disk, one of the best upgrades you can get.

Toycar - make sure you get the (b)lower front arms, towerhobbies has them now, they say (b)next to the part number they are beefier. Also make sure your sway bars aren't hammered down to hard like I have been, I think this helps in breaking arms as the sway bar doesn't always give you full travel and there are different forces working there, I have never broken a castor block though, just a few arms on my 777.

[dgrobe2112]

toycar.. KD is correct.. the new arms for the car have a (b) behind the part number.. its a new material, and are beefier.. with more support.. that will help with the breakage problem.. also, i beleive that all the new castor blocks will come with 3 holes.. if its the MP777 castor block, that was a running change in the car.. like.. i still dont have a set of 3 hole castor blocks..

JamminJay, thats all i run now.. is cradock pads.. no brake fade.. dont matter if you get fuel on them or not.. dont run the little pads on the metal calipers if you get cradocks.. BTW.. when you run cradocs.. what i did.. was i put an extra brake caliper in to help space the cradock pad away from the diff housing.. if your looking down at the car from the top..

front of car here.. |**|| |=disk **=cradock

Cradocks have excelletn stopping power.. i had to change the way i brake.. cuz like ribs.. i was getting the rear end to want to come off the ground.. after the long straight..

BTW.. just the regular one.. the anti lock ones.. not worth all the extra.. regular are great..

[invsible]

have you guys seen the mud scapers on www.neo-buggy.net from fioroni

[KanaiDude]

yea pretty slick i like them to, don't get to much mud caked in my rims, but I guess on a wet day they would work wonders...

[Toycar]

I got my lhs to bring in a set of 20 degree caster blocks, I'm sure they came from tower, but the only part # I could find on their site showed the blocks with only 1 hole. That's what I got? I put them on anyway since I was using the middle hole and it apeared to be in the same position on both style of blocks. I was wrong the blocks with the single hole has to be the position of outer hole on the 3 hole blocks. I had to lengthen the upper arm about 1/4" to get the same camber and lengthen the tie-rods to bring the toe in. It's handles quite differently. It was much better with the 3 hole blocks in the middle hole.

However, I'm using the K3 arms since I broke both the arm and block. Initially, when I compared the arm, K3 vs the 777 they looked the same for fitment? I'll do a more careful inspection tonight.

[dgrobe2112]

toycar.. the new 3 hole blocks are the same number with a B at the end..

[ExtremeDuty]

I love my craddock brakes, I had all kinds of issues with the stockers until I bought them. Don't use any pads with the craddocks just metal to disk, one of the best upgrades you can get.

Toycar - make sure you get the (b)lower front arms, towerhobbies has them now, they say (b)next to the part number they are beefier. Also make sure your sway bars aren't hammered down to hard like I have been, I think this helps in breaking arms as the sway bar doesn't always give you full travel and there are different forces working there, I have never broken a castor block though, just a few arms on my 777.

Just a F.Y.I...

I got mine (777 regular) last Christmas. I checked my instruction manual & towerhobbies' part page. Mine came w/ (B) lower front arms & (B) caster block.

[ExtremeDuty]

Got mine last year's Christmas and spent whole winter (Well, it's still winter here in Michigan) to build it. Regular 777 w/o any option yet.
The weakest link would be the lame Hyper 8-port engine. I don't have budget this year and will try to get a decent one next year.

After going through brain-hurting process, I just finished the body. Nothing fancy...using anything more than 3 colors is a challenge to me... :D
Since I am a military aircraft mania, I wanted to create a tiger stripped body like some of air show planes. One mistake I made though... I should have chosen brighter yellow. It's kind of light brown like orange. I mixed too much red w/ pearl yellow.

Now that body's done. I still have to glue tires on rims.

[ExtremeDuty]

One more pic. I think this one looks better.

[dgrobe2112]

That looks good.. nto bad for a paint job either..

[JamminJay]

D@mn... if I didnt know better I would think extreme was myself... michigan, low budgeted, etc... lol ..... Where in Michigan you from Extreme? I live near Ann Arbor.
I also have the reg 777 kit, but I have put some into it, I'm still building mine up too. Got it some time either just b4 or just after xmas. So far this is what I got into it:
>777 kit
>swapped out white wheels/wing for the sp1 yellow
>OS RG.21/Nova head
>RC Dragon chassis braces
>Center & Rear Uni's [comes with fronts]
>XB8 springs [both light(soft) & dark(stiff) blue
>RC Screwz SS kit
>Cradock brakes from R.E. DG was referring too ;)
>JR RS300 RX

still want to get:
>Sp1 towers
>3* rear suspension plate
>Jp-1
>Lunsford Ti turnbuckles
>JR Servos

hmm, think thats about it. maybe a couple dressy items such as the radio and wing posts??? But thats it.

[JamminJay]

BTW, you got a nice looking bug there, lets see a nakid shot lol. :D

[JamminJay]

Ok, this sux.... I should have just put this all on one post, but I couldn't check until after I finished the first one.... I just looked and your profile says you live in belleville? I live in Milan... not far away. Do you ever race up at Dirtburners? I race there on Sundays, I have a Drake I race right now, so, that's why it has taken so long on the 777. I am also, 29, so not a kid and i see were about the same age.....maybe have to get together and race or w/e sometime. I am thinking about building a track out here, I have my dads approval, but will definately need some interest from others, and a helping hand building it [especially since my health isnt the greatest lately] O well, just thought, i'd introduce myself, name's Jay/Jason. You can reach me through here if ya need anything or just to BS. :cool:

[ExtremeDuty]

Ok, this sux.... I should have just put this all on one post, but I couldn't check until after I finished the first one.... I just looked and your profile says you live in belleville? I live in Milan... not far away. Do you ever race up at Dirtburners? I race there on Sundays, I have a Drake I race right now, so, that's why it has taken so long on the 777. I am also, 29, so not a kid and i see were about the same age.....maybe have to get together and race or w/e sometime. I am thinking about building a track out here, I have my dads approval, but will definately need some interest from others, and a helping hand building it [especially since my health isnt the greatest lately] O well, just thought, i'd introduce myself, name's Jay/Jason. You can reach me through here if ya need anything or just to BS. :cool:

Nice to meet you, Jay! I'm Matt.
I haven't raced any off-road vehicles yet. Just been to several parking-lot touring car races and always realized how bad driver I was... :rolleyes:
Races on weekends usually don't work for me. Performing family & church duty leaves no space :o However I want to race my 777.

My buggy's naked shot? Well, mine is a purely regular 777 w/ a cheap engine.
I heard about Dirt Burners before but never been there. I just did a quick search and it's a Nitro indoor track??? Could be a stupid question, but it is safe to breathe all that exhaust???

Some time, we should get together. I totally agree.
If you have a space to build a track and need help, I'm definitely in.

I see you are looking to get Lunsford Ti-rods? How about Kyosho's own gold turnbuckles? I don't have yet but I just won Kyosho's gold turnbuckles bundled w/ other stuff. Since I already have Lunsford rods, I won't need the gold ones. (just 4 camber rods not including steering servo & tie-rods)
I accidentally placed a bid on eBay w/o paying much attention. :D

See you around.

[dgrobe2112]

extreme.. how much for the gold turnbuckles..

[JamminJay]

Dang DG beat me to them....... but if he don't take yea I would be interested, I was gonna run the plain rods till I broke or bent one, but I got to thinking, you can't change the camber very good with the plain ones can ya?

As far as indoor track goes... have you ever seen an airplane hangar? you know them big exhaust fans in the sides of the buildings? They use them to move all the exhaust fumes out.... one blows in at one end, and at the other end one blows out [actually 2 at each end] so in the winter it gets mighty cold in there some days, but when it's nice they have a big garage door or 2 that they open up. It's a pretty decent layout and good news for me and you. being it's a small tight track our engines are fine there. Thats why I got the RG, the price was right for me and really I wont need anything else. I mean yea, the show offs and people who can burn it run RB's, Sirios, Vspecs, P5's, 421B's, but they don't get to use them to their full potential. I mean the track is only 100'-140' feet from end -end [I'm guessing] they also change the layout every 4-6 weeks or so, which is cool, cause it's always different no advantage to people who practice there all the time and what not. Go to WWW.DBRRC.com thats their website. It's pretty kool since they just got it up and running, just don't look at my race results. lol . the past couple weeks I have broke.. which reminds me I gotta ask about that in the XXXNT forum....
Anyway, you said you been to parking lot races? Those didnt happen to be the old ones that were at Canton Riders are they? I am sooo mad they quit running there. The winter b4 they quit, I built up an awesome NTC3, it started as a rtr, but I upgraded it all to factory specs, you can see it here:
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=141145 Well, nice to meet ya, i'm sure we'll both be bouncing around this forum. :D

[ExtremeDuty]

extreme.. how much for the gold turnbuckles..

How about $20? I'm not sure about market price now...

[ExtremeDuty]

Dang DG beat me to them....... but if he don't take yea I would be interested, I was gonna run the plain rods till I broke or bent one, but I got to thinking, you can't change the camber very good with the plain ones can ya?

As far as indoor track goes... have you ever seen an airplane hangar? you know them big exhaust fans in the sides of the buildings? They use them to move all the exhaust fumes out.... one blows in at one end, and at the other end one blows out [actually 2 at each end] so in the winter it gets mighty cold in there some days, but when it's nice they have a big garage door or 2 that they open up. It's a pretty decent layout and good news for me and you. being it's a small tight track our engines are fine there. Thats why I got the RG, the price was right for me and really I wont need anything else. I mean yea, the show offs and people who can burn it run RB's, Sirios, Vspecs, P5's, 421B's, but they don't get to use them to their full potential. I mean the track is only 100'-140' feet from end -end [I'm guessing] they also change the layout every 4-6 weeks or so, which is cool, cause it's always different no advantage to people who practice there all the time and what not. Go to WWW.DBRRC.com thats their website. It's pretty kool since they just got it up and running, just don't look at my race results. lol . the past couple weeks I have broke.. which reminds me I gotta ask about that in the XXXNT forum....
Anyway, you said you been to parking lot races? Those didnt happen to be the old ones that were at Canton Riders are they? I am sooo mad they quit running there. The winter b4 they quit, I built up an awesome NTC3, it started as a rtr, but I upgraded it all to factory specs, you can see it here:
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=141145 Well, nice to meet ya, i'm sure we'll both be bouncing around this forum. :D

I have been to Canton Riders a couple of times w/ electric sedan. I didn't even know that they stopped racing. I didn't race any last year.

Dirt Burner track seems to be nice! It's about 50 minutes from my house, but once I move to Northville it will take less than 25 minutes.

I still have electric & nitro touring cars. I got a V-one-RR, which I never figured out the handling problem. Do you go to the off-road track around Ann Arbor area? I fogot the track name...

[dgrobe2112]

well.. i just won an auction.. which has them.. so.. i will let jay have them..

[JamminJay]

DG, thanks, I will definately get them from him, I thought you had a sp1, Dan?

Matt, the track your talking about is Washtenaw right? In Saline? I have never been there as all they race is electric, and all I own is Nitro. I've had many cars and only one electric, and that was a TC3 rtr that I basically only got for my son. [he was just a little too young at the time for that much car] Wonder if I can remember them all? RC10GT, 3 xxxnt's, Nitro RS4-3, Tmaxx, 2 Savages, 2 Drakes, Ultra MBX, Lightning pro, mp7.5sport, Swift, TNX, MGT, 777, 2 mini z's and an HPI micro...... I think thats it? Wow thats alot in a just a short time.

[dgrobe2112]

Jay.. no.. i got the regular.. and did some upgradeing.. it was a tough descision.. however.. i think the regular version.. with a few upgrades is just as good if not better..

[ExtremeDuty]

Jay.. no.. i got the regular.. and did some upgradeing.. it was a tough descision.. however.. i think the regular version.. with a few upgrades is just as good if not better..

I totally agree w/ your decision. SP1 does include lots of options but some are rather for "Bling Bling" show-off than truly performance aspect.

Upgrading regular w/ some essential options are cheaper way to get there.

[JamminJay]

[I second that motion] :D Especially what you said Matt, sure there's some nice things on the sp1, but some just arent necessary. Especially with a $250+ extra price tag. @ $320 the regular just can't be beat.


Seems like we lost every1 else in this thread :p

[dgrobe2112]

sometimes RCzone dont email letting people know of new post.. one time i just came on here to check and see if anyone posted.. i was like 3 pages behind..

[JamminJay]

yea thats why I am cancelling aol this week. Their new spam filters don't let my notification come thru, even from a pm. I contacted them 3 times like Mr. Pond said to do. any they can't fix the problem. I even have my filter supposedly turned off. Well, they can't fix it.... I can fix it... not pay them $24/mo ha ha. I now have providenet, and it seems to be going good, theres only 1 post so far I don't ever get notified about, and thats the xxxnt forum. I try to keep up, tho since, I own and race it.

[dgrobe2112]

i get my notifications from there.. but the same time i miss this one.. i miss that one also.. :)

[KanaiDude]

Yet another should of could of sob story from yours truly... So I'm leading for about 20mins of the race, 1/2 a lap on two very fast dudes, this race was mine. So im comming around a corner and my car totally freaks out, if you can imagine this I was on the far side of the drivers stand and there are 9 other radios in between me and my car so I think it just glitched for a few seconds, well I gain control and don't lose the lead but the lap counter misses my lap with all the interference! So now i'm being reported as a lap down, well needless to say I lose my focus out of disgust cause once your down your down you can argue with the results but... so the other two guys catch me cause there really was no way I was going to make up another lap on these two. So I finish with an error on my lap time and technically the 3 of us finish within 7 seconds of each other with me in 3rd. The others guys new I was faster and gave me the props but its still not on paper, arghghghghgh! Stupid Revo stripped two spur gears on it this weekend, I highly questions a rotating motor mount that when the truck hits the bottom hard the mount can move and mess up your gear mesh?!? have to fix that somehow...

[dgrobe2112]

Sounds rough KD.. but wont be long.. till these things work themselves out.. then.. computer probs.. that will happen.. the glitch.. that sux.. i woulda got worried bout it.. but most likely.. someone switched on a radio..

so.. i never thought about the rotating motor mount.. that does seem like it wold be a problem.. dont know.. just really wrench on that motor screw.. hahah..

My 777 is getting better every weekend.. tried 2k in the rear of the car.. and that made a huge difference.. i been running lighter oils in the car for the shocks.. cuz of the cold.. and this weekend it warmed up.. i didnt change anything.. however.. the car seemed good.. and handled the rough stuff better..

we have a rut that is forming on the track.. dont know where its coming from.. i think from the rain.. and the watering.. where the water runs.. its kinda like a small trench going across a certain part of the track.. really upsets the car before this one jump..

Just seems the X5 handles the rough alot better than my car..

[KanaiDude]

Yea my persistence is paying off, I know sooner or later if I stay on it I will have my day. That motor mount is a pain, it has this star shaped washer that goes inbetween and is suposed to lock the mount, well I lost one of the washers, I'm wondering if they sell those at the hardware store? I like the x5 to DG, not enough to switch from the dark side though, the K-gods would punish me for sure! You liked 2k in the rear? What did it do for your rear comming out turns, more power but a little less control, or more power and control?

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi, guys.

I got bunch of questions.

1. What's typical ride height? I set mine about middle point of total shock travel and front a little lower than rear to give more steering.

2. Why 1/8 buggy's have center differential? Is it just for front/rear biased brake or is there other meaningful reason? What happens If I lock the center diff just like on-road touring cars?

3. Based on touring car experience, I know we usually set front diff stiffer than rear to prevent spin out on 4WD vehicles. Can someone collaborate more on front & rear diff's bias on handling? I tried to search "diff & handling" on internet but it didn't net anything useful.

4. Does 7.5's diff design same as 777? I got a Mad Force that has 7.5 diffs. If they are the same design, I can make spare diffs w/ different oil settings.



This one is not a question but a statement.
My 777 is officially ready for action now! :D
Today's I was off and had nothing to do...So I installed Lunsford turnbuckles.

Thanks,

Matt.

[dgrobe2112]

KD, the 2k in the rear really tamed the rear end down.. took away the looseness feeling.. i was able to get on the gas harder coming out of the turns..

Extreme, most guys set the ride height.. where the dogbones are just above level in front.. and level in the rear..

Why do they put a center diff in.. well.. i dont know the exact answer.. however.. i know that being able to change the center diff really helps on each track.. when the track is smooth and high bite.. you go higher in center.. but when it gets really rutted.. you may want to go down some..

Normally, the front is thicker than the rear.. a good starting point.. i normally use is 3/7/1, however.. currently.. i am at 5/7/2 front to rear..

[dgrobe2112]

oh.. and i forgot to mention.. yes.. the 7.5 diffs will work in the 777, they are the exact same thing..

[ExtremeDuty]

oh.. and i forgot to mention.. yes.. the 7.5 diffs will work in the 777, they are the exact same thing..

Thanks, DG! That's super. Another place that I can save money... ;)

Oh, I re-set mine's ride height per your recommendation. It now looks a bit too high to me. Yes, I'm afraid of height, LOL. I just feel like the first time I was driving a SUV. I'm used to set ride height of 4-6 mm on my touring cars. :D

Anyway, the increased ride height does look proportionally right to its scale.

About the center diff, I think there are only a couple of hardcore off-road vehicles w/ center diff (I'm talking about 1:1 real cars). Most of regular duty 4x4 vehicles have no center diff w/ solid drive shaft connection between rear axle and front/mid transfer case. Am I right???

[JamminJay]

I am curious... is anyone running a JP-1 pipe? also with a stock body? i picked up one from my friend the other dayand not sure I like it too well. I knew the stinger thing was big and it has a purpose just a shame I have cut that much of a section of body away, But whats worse is in the rear where the manifold wraps around. No matter what position I place the pipe in it pushes the body way out and kinda upward, it is very noticable from the rear and slightly from the side. anyone else have this problem? How about you DG? I know you got an 053 I think you said, which should be about the same dimensions as a 063. This is a used pipe from my friend and it's scuffed up and has a couple dings so this will be temporaray till I get a new one but I wont get another JP if this is how they fit. The 063, or 086 are my second choices, thats why I asked about the 053. I'm not real familiar with this pipe. What characteristics does it have? how will it work on a small tight track?

[dgrobe2112]

I am curious... is anyone running a JP-1 pipe? also with a stock body? i picked up one from my friend the other dayand not sure I like it too well. I knew the stinger thing was big and it has a purpose just a shame I have cut that much of a section of body away, But whats worse is in the rear where the manifold wraps around. No matter what position I place the pipe in it pushes the body way out and kinda upward, it is very noticable from the rear and slightly from the side. anyone else have this problem? How about you DG? I know you got an 053 I think you said, which should be about the same dimensions as a 063. This is a used pipe from my friend and it's scuffed up and has a couple dings so this will be temporaray till I get a new one but I wont get another JP if this is how they fit. The 063, or 086 are my second choices, thats why I asked about the 053. I'm not real familiar with this pipe. What characteristics does it have? how will it work on a small tight track?

The JP-1 pipe is a low to mid range pipe.. i didnt like it.. for the reason that the motor didnt seem to run right on it.. i had one.. but got rid of it pretty quick. I run an 053 right now.. and i like it alot.. great fuel mileage.. like 8+ minutes.. during racing.. not just tooling around.. i get even more.. but during a race.. i can go 8 minutes easy.. i think the stinger suport that the JP-1 is pretty sweet.. i wouldnt mind cutting the extra out.. for peace of mind.. but it does look crappy when you go to a regular pipe.. and have this big cut out.. but.. i went from an 086, to an 053, and i got a big cut out for both pipes now.. hahah so.. it would look exactly the same..

[KanaiDude]

I've got the Jp-1 and 2 pipes, the 1 just had way to much bottom for the p5 I was running, it would be a good RB motor pipe though because it does have great bottom end. I like the jp-2 for a P5 it does very well, and once i fix my P5 i'll use the jp-2 on it, it is a great combo. I totally hear you with the body thing, when I'm running jammin pipes it will basically melt a hole where the header is, most of the bodies have a spot for this but it still melts it away because it is still so close, I do love the stinger support though if you've ever busted a stinger on a 100 pipe you can appreciate it. Currently i'm running an ofna 053 on an RB s72 and I LOVE it, the 053 is the best of both worlds good bottom and top end and its cheap 45$, I think alot of people are starting to use it.

[JamminJay]

Yea the main thing I wanted to know was about by the header. I can live with the hole in the side as long as I keep the JP's... but the back looks retarted the way it pushes the side out.....maybe I'm just too picky and want everything perfect :D but for looking at the back the sides of the body look like this / l even with that little bubble. thats what i was asking about, is/was everyones like that?

[KanaiDude]

I haven't even painted the stock body, i have two painted up crowdpleaseer 2.0's and really like the lines on them. I don't have as many issues as it sounds like you have with the stock body, i guess you got a bad combo there, what motor are you running? If your running a bottem end motor, I would buy a 053 pipe, if your running a top end motor you could stick with the jp-1 and get a CP2.0...

[JamminJay]

I have an OS RG... our track is pretty small and tight... and indoor :)

[Lapster]

Hey, did some of you guys say you have been running the Mugen aluminum clucth shoes w/ good luck?

[Ribz]

JJ i have the same problem with my jp-1 it pushes the stock body out, ive actually cut the body out where the header is. my stock body is pretty trashed so i dont really care. the jammin pipes are sweet though, solid as a rock and i love the look with the support, makes the other pipes look funny to me and i always see them dented up, i do plan on getting a jp-2 because of the monster low end with a p5, ohh yea i have a CP body and it seems to fit alot better around the header area...

lapster, i just put the mugen shoes on this week, i was out at the track today but was having raido problems so i didnt really get to test them out, ill let you know what i think next week, but im sure these more exp. guys might have have something more to offer

and i have a ? how often do you guys change the fluid in the diffs? im rebuilding now and ill be going 3/5/1 the fluid was a little grey looking

[JamminJay]

Thanks Ribz... If anyone has a clean, close to new JP-1 they wanna sell in a couple weeks let me know... the one I got from a friend was free so you know... :D

I am guessing you guys are running the new CP for the 777? Do you know if the old one for the 7.5 works?

[Lapster]

About the JP-1 pipe, I had to cut my body out where the header. And it seems like my P5 isnt quite running right either. At an indoor track I just went to, everyone told me the 053 was definitely the best pipe to run with. So what is the deal with the JP-2... is it more of mid range to top end pipe?

And will these work.... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSC6&P=7 . They say for the 7.5... but will they work w/ our buggy?

[KanaiDude]

Lapster - I love the mugen alluminum shoes they hold up better then kyosho alluminum and composite, they are awesome. I don't care for trinity bells to much though they are cheap and will last but not like the hardened kyosho bells.

Ribz - I change my diff fluids like every 4-5 races. I would maybe think about going 3/7/1 the 7 in the center will really help the car straigten out and feel more planted. I think 3/7/1 is a great setup, some people are going 5/7/1 and some are going 5/7/2 those two combos will give you a little more power but are for slightly more experienced drivers. That trinity clutch wouuld work good on your p5 and jp-1, but I would consider getting the jp-2 for your P5 i love that combo, when i was using the jp-1 on my p5 I would fishtail out of every turn unless i had very fresh tires, the jp-2, 053 or a higher clutch bell will help tame that bottom.

Jammin - I don't think the old one fits, the new body has a very different nose design. OS RG hmm, that is sort of a bottom end motor, I think you would like the 053 may give you a little more midrange and usuable power curve then the on/off power you get from such a low end pipe, but with the track being small and tight it the jp-1 might be just fine, if you find yourself fishtailing to much you have to much bottom, and you should switch to the 053 or a higher clutch bell like lapster...

[invsible]

the k-factory bells (trinity) are easy on your bearings becuase of the vents those are what i use with no problems ofna also makes vented bells that are cheep


also what are your guys thoughts on bearings avid vs. boca

[Mika]

im rebuilding now and ill be going 3/5/1 the fluid was a little grey looking

Once in the season unless something major happens... :D Aluminium makes the oil grey, don't worry..

.. Or how often do the rest of you change your oils?

[GTpanda]

Hi all,

sorry for the dumb question, but this thread is so long I couldn't find out if there's already an answer to my question :o

are the turnbuckle sets for MP7.5 good also for the 777? I can find the former very easily, but only the lunsfords "branded" for the 777 :(

thanks!

cheers

[dgrobe2112]

Jammin.. the RG, runs great with the O53 pipe.. i used that combo once.. and loved it.. the jammin pipe on the RG, really kills the RG on top end..

Lapster.. the mugen aluminum shoes are the only way to go.. they last a long time.. i currently run Kyosho 1.0 springs.. with mugen shoes on my P5, WS7II, same thing.. 1.1 springs..

Ribz.. i change the fluid in the diff.. before each big race.. which is bout every month and a half usually.. bout 6 weeks.. of weekend races.. if you race every weekend.. if you only race a couple times.. then you could go longer..

If you are looking for a good diff setup.. i would prolly go 3/7/1, or possibly 3/7/2, or 5/7/2, i dont know if 5k in the center is that good.. especially if you ahve a high HP motor.. like a P5 or something like that..i am gonna try the 3/7/2, pretty soon.. currently 5/7/2, i like it.. but the front is pushing off power.. so im gonna try some different setup options.. in the front.. to see what i can do to rid my off power push..

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi all,

sorry for the dumb question, but this thread is so long I couldn't find out if there's already an answer to my question :o

are the turnbuckle sets for MP7.5 good also for the 777? I can find the former very easily, but only the lunsfords "branded" for the 777 :(

thanks!

cheers

I believe MP7.5's gold turn buckles are the same as ones offered in 777 SP1.
If you go to Towerhobbies web site, you can compare turn buckle sizes.

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. the gold turnbuckles are the same from each car.. they will work..

Invis.. i only run AVID bearings.. for the price.. you cant beat it.. Avid rubber sealed clutch bearings.. for the price.. you cant lose.. Boca are good.. but are alot higer priced.. i know the guy from AVID.. David Joor.. great guy.. race with him alot.. and he really puts his bearings to the test before he sells them.. I remember when he first started the company.. he took some of his bearings and handed them out at the track to some of the local fast guys.. and told them.. run these.. and let me know what happens.. he said.. i want you to run a set until they fail.. tell me how long.. and then also run some sets.. for one race.. then pull the motor.. see what the bearings feel like.. and keep running them.. see what they feel like.. but he wanted everyones different opinions.. and also for R&D..

[dgrobe2112]

Lapster.. the JP-2 is a mid-top end pipe.. the JP-1 is the low-mid pipe...

Jammin.. i know somone who is selling a almost new JP1.. email him at mcoombs@trane.com he will get you pics.. and a price.. i think it will be round 40 bux.. but that thing is almost brand new..

[GTpanda]

thanks a lot, I'll get those :)

cheers

[dgrobe2112]

www.avidrc.com clutch bearings.. 20 for 20 bux.. 10 for 15 i think...

[Lapster]

Hey guys, I was just thinking... when is it advantagous to take one of the sway bars off?

[AreCee]

Ususally on a very, very bumpy and uneven surface where the suspension is bouncing around a lot.

[invsible]

dg thanks i think ill try some

[nitroburnr]

Why do some racers run 2 fuel filters in their buggies instead of just 1?

[JamminJay]

Why do some racers run 2 fuel filters in their buggies instead of just 1?


I have been told it is a way to get just a few more drops of fuel out of it for better consumption.... might get another lap or two, while the other guy does not????? Also, hey, what can it hurt? added protection. :D

[Ribz]

Why do some racers run 2 fuel filters in their buggies instead of just 1?

the extra protection, longer run times because of more fuel

[Sgt Blamo]

dgrobe2112,
How do you like your WS7 II ? What fuel are you running?

[Ribz]

well ran the car with 3/5/1 this weekend and it was a bit more twitchy, nothing uncontrollable but when i rebuild ill most likely go back to 3/7/1, i run a pretty bumpy track so i was hoping it would help a little, i was having engine problems so my mind was on other things really, it was bogging down on take off and after a few min. it would just stall, most always in the air, after some reading i figure the HSN was to lean, we will see this wed. when i hit the track, i hope thats the problem im really looking forward to my first race this friday as long as everything is running good

the only other problem i was having was CVs coming out on full compression, i had recently switched to the inside holes on the f/r hubs, i thought that was kinds weird, it still did it even after i adjusted the turnbuckles. i pretty much followed the setup on pg 19(?)

im also looking for more on power steering, i know this has been discused alot so im going to look back through the pages, that can be daunting sometimes so if someone doesnt mind some quick ideas i would appreciate it

[dgrobe2112]

SGT.. i liked my WS7II, very much.. very fast on the top end.. just lacked a little on the bottom.. i prefer my P5 over my WS7II anyday.. if you got a WS7II, i suggest 1.1 springs, with mugen aluminum shoes.. that is basically the only setup i could get to work on the motor.. it was good.. however.. i just wasnt happy with the bottom end punch.. one thing.. i never did try.. was a 48t spur gear.. i think that would have helped that motor a ton.. i think thats what all the top guys running that motor are doing.. 48t spur.. and 13t clutchbell..

Ribz.. i dont know about the unis popping out.. other than you may have them in the wrong end of the car.. the fronts in the rear.. and vice versa..

For on power steering.. coming out of the corner.. there are some things to try.. this is the first thing i would do..

Try going down to the 2.5 degree toe block in the rear.. that will help the rear come around.. also.. try going up in castor in the front.. 22 degree hubs..

Let me know how that works..

[ngo8]

]i got a couple of questions i just got my 777 sp1 and i was wondering what do you guys use for the turnbuckles to adjust the camber the kit didnt come with a wrench and they where really hard to put on .another question is i dont know what motor to get but i am down to nova p5 fromn EBMODS or JP-FX21 which one should i get and turbo head or none turbo whats the difference and the stock clutch springs whats there rating any help wil be great thanks.

[wyl03]

]i got a couple of questions i just got my 777 sp1 and i was wondering what do you guys use for the turnbuckles to adjust the camber the kit didnt come with a wrench and they where really hard to put on .another question is i dont know what motor to get but i am down to nova p5 fromn EBMODS or JP-FX21 which one should i get and turbo head or none turbo whats the difference and the stock clutch springs whats there rating any help wil be great thanks.

1. to adjust turnbuckles, simply use a long-nose plier or a small adjustable wrench

2. stock clutch springs should be 1.0mm

3. either engines are good. they are both pretty high end and expensive stuff. do u need them? any 1 of the following stock engines will do fine - P5, VSpec, ws7, ws7-2, sirio kanai2.

[AreCee]

A 5mm open ended wrench should have been included. Using a pliers will almost guarantee that you'll be rounding out the flats and replacing the turnbuckles.

[dgrobe2112]

i would have to agree with wyl03.. JP, and mod motors are great and everything.. higher priced.. i personally would rather save that money and get a regular p5, for 240.. and for the price of some motors.. you can get 2 p5's..

ngo8.. if you got the stock 777.. its gonna be tough to adjust camber.. i would suggest getting some turnbuckles.. you can get some on ebay or from your local hobby shop.. i bought some ofna 9.5 turnbuckles.. they were cheaper than the gold kyosho ones..

[AreCee]

DG, ngo8 has the SP1 and has the turnbuckles. He just doesn't know how to adjust them.

[JamminJay]

Well, my buggy is Finally getting close to being finished..... check out the pics here, and let me know what you think? [Don't forget to "fullsize" them.]

http://www.angelfire.com/rings/jamminjay1722/777/

[dgrobe2112]

looks good jay..

[invsible]

if you have a proplem with rear universals popping out this is what you need to do. on the right rear you need to run a front universal and on the left run the regular rear universal this is what i had to do and since no proplems i was running fronts in both sides of the rear but it was binding on the left a little so give that a try

[invsible]

wait

[invsible]

also kyosho america should be open april 20th no more great planes www.kyoshoamerica.com

[ExtremeDuty]

Well, my buggy is Finally getting close to being finished..... check out the pics here, and let me know what you think? [Don't forget to "fullsize" them.]

http://www.angelfire.com/rings/jamminjay1722/777/

Your ride looks cool!
Specially the oversized head says "Bling, bling"... :D

[JamminJay]

Thanx alot for the compliments guys....

I think I got an idea for the "header pushing out the body problem"
I did locate an 053 I might pick up if the guy ever Emails me back, and a friend knows a guy who might sell me a JP-2 so I should be all set for pipes ha ha. -Anyway, my idea is to take the header and stick it in a vise and clamp down it enough to bend it in a smidgen. i figure this should be ok since it doesn't have togo far, it shouldn't crease or kink. I am going to try it on the old used jp-1 first. what do you think?

[Ribz]

cool thanx alot dg, and invis

Jay car looks sweet! i like the colors

also kyosho america should be open april 20th no more great planes www.kyoshoamerica.com

did you guys see the mini inferno! that thing looks sweet!

[ngo8]

i would have to agree with wyl03.. JP, and mod motors are great and everything.. higher priced.. i personally would rather save that money and get a regular p5, for 240.. and for the price of some motors.. you can get 2 p5's..

ngo8.. if you got the stock 777.. its gonna be tough to adjust camber.. i would suggest getting some turnbuckles.. you can get some on ebay or from your local hobby shop.. i bought some ofna 9.5 turnbuckles.. they were cheaper than the gold kyosho ones..i have an sp1 and maybe ill get a regurlar p5 i still have some time to think still thanks for all the the anwswers fo r those with p5s any problems or anything with the motor.

[wyl03]

save the money and spend it on tyres :)

[JamminJay]

I know this is gonna sound dumb, but are your guys' brake rods on an angle from the horn, according to the manual they look straight, but if I put mine straight they will hit the splash guard. Is it ok to run them on an angle? Also what servo horns are you guys using for throttle, maybe I should change mine.

[ExtremeDuty]

I know this is gonna sound dumb, but are your guys' brake rods on an angle from the horn, according to the manual they look straight, but if I put mine straight they will hit the splash guard. Is it ok to run them on an angle? Also what servo horns are you guys using for throttle, maybe I should change mine.

I guess it depends on how you set them up. Mine doesn't touch the fuel splash guard.
I made the brake rods a little shorter than the manual suggests. Once I setup per instruction and the rods touched the splash guard when full brake applied. I found the middle point for brake rod adjustment and cut off some so that there is enough clearance.

[JamminJay]

ok.... so maybe thats the key? Are your rods straight tho? Thats was another of my concerns. I have the Ofna plastic horns, should I use something else?

[ExtremeDuty]

ok.... so maybe thats the key? Are your rods straight tho? Thats was another of my concerns. I have the Ofna plastic horns, should I use something else?

Mine are setup straight w/ shortened brake rods. I also used Ofna servo plastic horns. Just play w/ brake system to see if you can safely reduce the length of the rods. That's what I did. My brake rods are shorter than what manual says but still able to adjust fully.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2129115803

You can check out my setup from the link's picture. Make it full size to see the detail. Still hard to see though. (oh, you will need to sign up for imagestations. Their picture hosting is free & no upload limits)

[ExtremeDuty]

Anybody plan to get one of thses things?
I might get it for display/my son. Believe it or not, I got a Mini-Z racer for my son when he was a little over 3. Of course he does not know how to drive it. He just drives everywhere without even looking at the car... ;)
Well, that Mini-Z still works but not a good shape though.
I guess I will get it for my son on this year's Christmas. It will be picture perfect! Daddy drives 1/8th MP777 and son drives 1/16th mini Mp777. :D

[ngo8]

what kind of glue do you guys use for glueing the brake pads or do you even have to glue them?

[wyl03]

i've seen pple gluing it (normal CA) and pple NOT gluing it.

and if you are using craddock-style fibre disk, then u don't even need the pads.

[ngo8]

how good are those craddock brake pads what kind of materials are they made from?

[dgrobe2112]

P5, is a great engine.. i have had 0 problems, runs great.. and fast.. tons of power.. easy to tune..

I have seen use CA, also.. use some contact cement for them

I run cradocks in my car.. no brake fade.. no worries bout splashing fuel on them either..

my linkage was hitting my splash guard.. i cut some out out of the spash guard.. the linkages runs right behind the gas tank for me..

[JamminJay]

yea I played with my brakes yesterday, think I got them adjusted ok now, wont really be able to tell until I get some tires on it.. the plastic wheels just lock up and slide on the table ;) I didn't shorten the rods any, I just turned them knurled adj knobs [w/e they're called] all the way back so the rods were all the as far back as they could go. altho they still arent too straight. O well. :D

[JamminJay]

btw ngo8.. I used Shoo goo to attach my pads.... but I am planning a set of craddocks.

[Little_Horn]

Hello to everybody.
I haven't posted for a while, but I read this thread everyday.
I ordered some cradocks from Advanced Racing Products. They should be here in some days.
About brake pads. I glued mine with CA but that didn't work out. Some of them got loose. I only noticed that after a race, but they braked fine anyway. I asked a experienced racer about this and he said he glued his pads with epoxy. They will never get loose again. :D
But I don't need to worry about this anymore, because I will have cradocks. ;)

[wyl03]

how good are those craddock brake pads what kind of materials are they made from?

they are made from a fibre-type of material.
to me, it looks like something that companies use to make PC's printed circuit boards (wafer) :D

[invsible]

any one heading to the rc proseries west round 1 this weekend if so ill see ya there im making the 6 hour drive in the morning

[Sgt Blamo]

How does the 777 spcl1 compare to the K III ?

[ngo8]

so if i get cradock disks i dont need the pads anymore? only the metal ones?

[AreCee]

so if i get cradock disks i dont need the pads anymore? only the metal ones?
You'll still need the pads but you won't need to use the brake linings (what you call pads).

[AreCee]

How does the 777 spcl1 compare to the K III ?
The SP1 is like the K3 which is a Kyosho hopped up version of the base buggy. How does it compare? The main components have been moved closer to the center and the chassis is narrower to provide better transitions. The suspension is longer and has more travel. The rear shocks are longer for more droop. The front steering is a bit more active making it more aggressive in steering.

[performula]

How does the 777 spcl1 compare to the K III ? I wouldn't pass up a K3 completely if you get a good deal on it. Tower Hobbies still carries parts for a lot of the old Inferno/MP series. Plus the Kanai 3 isn't old.

[ngo8]

are the 777 steering knuckles the same as the 7.5 ones? and the rear hubs from the 777 same as the 7.5? and the stock rear hubs are 0 degrees ?

[dgrobe2112]

ngo.. yes.. they are all the same.. the knuckles.. work from both cars.. and the rear hubs are the same.. the rear hubs are at 0 degrees.. however there are optional half degree hubs that racers edge offers.

[KanaiDude]

Hey you guys have much slop in the front and rear arms, especially the rear? I've got the kingz rear toe blocks and there is so much slop, there are set screws but even with thread lock they come out sometimes leaving the rear a little sloppy doesnt seem to make any difference just curious what you guys thought about it.

[Lapster]

Can anyone tell me why my car is running so hot? Im running trinity MHP 20%, OS A5 plug and a Novarossi P5 and a JP-1 pipe. I have it running 270 and it isnt as fast as the stadium trucks. Any idea why?

[KanaiDude]

The OS A5 is a short plug for OS engines, you need a Novarossi style plug, Novarossi, RB, and Mcoy plugs will work in the P5, they are like 1-2mm longer then an OS plug, that should be why your running so hot.

[JamminJay]

---- With that being said, I have an OS Engine, so send me your plugs, I'll make sure they get put to good use. :D

[Lapster]

Thankfully I put my last A5 in... today... I was getting really pissed off. I remember the engine ran awesome until my last race... thats when I swicthed to the A5 plug but everyone swore by them so I kept trying. I have a question... is the MC9 and the MC59 the same thing? If not... which is better?

[dgrobe2112]

MC9 is a cold plug.. i dont recommend a cold plug with the P5,i recommend a medium plug or a hot plug.. the MC59 is a hot plug.. will work better.. novarossi 6, or RB 6 plugs are mediums... or you can get novarossi 5 or RB 5 will be a medium hot plug..

KD.. yes.. i noticed some slop. that is because of the moving of the arms up and down.. what you will have to do is get a new squat plate for the rear end.. and put the set screw in.. and really need to get it to stay in.. i been using red loctite. cuz i cant get mine to stay in either.. whats happening.. is the front squat plate hole for the hinge pin is actually getting wollowed out.. flat spot a place on the hinge pin.. where the set screw goes in.. and really get down on it.. that should help with that.. also.. if your wheels are a little sloppy also.. there are shims that came with the kit.. however. the manual dont tell you to use these.. put the shim between the outer wheel hub bearings, and the 17mm wheel hub.. should help tighen that up.. also. go back to all your plastic parts trees.. all them wonder little plastic washer.. get them.. and use them where you need them.. i did.. helped a ton..

[ngo8]

should i get turbo plug or normal plug for the P5 what is the differnce between the two

[JamminJay]

YAYYYYY............ Post 1000 for me. :D

[ExtremeDuty]

I ran mine briefly just to test servo trims & carb base setting.
Since I didn't want to smooth spikes on tires, I had to run on my lawn.

Everything went OK and actually It was a little scary. You know, 1/8 buggy is quite fast & with its heavy weight if I hit something, I can't avoid damage on either side... :o

One funny thing was that mine rolled over many times. It's probably due to high bite between spike tires & grass. Whenever I entered corners too fast, it just flipped over. Roll over was even worse than my Mad Force.

I wanted to bring mine to a close construction site, but I had to do oil change on my 1:1 car. Steering & throttle trims are all set and carb setting was OK w/ a little rich at low speed.

[Lapster]

First race day = major dissapintment. I switched glowplugs and that took care of the heat problem for about 3 tanks. I had it down around 210*. The 4th tank of the day the buggy started running at about 250-270*. I richened the high speed about 1/6 turn and nothing happened. As I richened it it got hotter. Finally I had it so rich it ran about 230*.... I then got 4 minutes out of a tank w/ no power. By the main the car would barely start. I started the race and ran one lap and it flamed out... I just pulled it... not worth the trouble. I took the engine out of the car and it has barely any compression. Everythig is tight on the motor... no air leaks anywhere... I think the motor is toast. I only have about 3 gallons through it. Here we come RB.

[dgrobe2112]

ngo.. use a standard plug.. unless you got a turbo motor.. cant use turbo plugs.. without a turbo button..

lapster.. 3 gallons on the engine.. how is your clutch.. have you replaced it at all.. first thing.. clutch can cause heating problems.. if your clutch is not working good.. over working the motor.. it will seem the engine is not making power.. however.. its the clutch.. that will cause the motor to run hot also.. srry to hear about the engine.. if you wish to get rid of it.. let me know.. i may buy it off you.. drop me an email if you want to sell it.. dgrobe2112@netzero.com

[wyl03]

One funny thing was that mine rolled over many times. It's probably due to high bite between spike tires & grass. Whenever I entered corners too fast, it just flipped over.

spike tyres are best for grass, btw .. but as u know, it can cause traction rolls.

u should trim/cut the outermost spikes. that should help.

[ngo8]

ngo.. use a standard plug.. unless you got a turbo motor.. cant use turbo plugs.. without a turbo button..

lapster.. 3 gallons on the engine.. how is your clutch.. have you replaced it at all.. first thing.. clutch can cause heating problems.. if your clutch is not working good.. over working the motor.. it will seem the engine is not making power.. however.. its the clutch.. that will cause the motor to run hot also.. srry to hear about the engine.. if you wish to get rid of it.. let me know.. i may buy it off you.. drop me an email if you want to sell it.. dgrobe2112@netzero.comyou didnt understand my question which version motor should i get turbo plug or normal plug is there a differnce?

[dgrobe2112]

oh.. not sure bout the difference... however.. i have heard that turbo motors are harder to tune.. but. i dont know.. also.. just passing on some info.. if you go to tower hobbies.. you can get a Vspec motor for 248 shipped.. thats pretty cheap..

Do a search on LW5131 this is the Vspec w/ free $20 certificate. Then use coupon code 010A8 for $40 off. :)

They send the gift certificate with the motor..

[Lapster]

As for the turbo plug or not... I would go w/o it. I had a Mugen Mt-12 w/ a turbo head and it was a major biotch to tune. I bought the standard head button and it made all the difference in the world.

[wyl03]

turbo engines ARE or rather, *were* more sensitive to tune. but the manufacturers are improving too their quality too.

so if you don't want to mess around with your engine tuning, then standard plugs are the way to go.

having said that, turbo engines such P5T, 421B and VSpec seems to handle tuning very well. i changed from an OS V01b (standard plug) to a VSpec in my last race and didn't encounter great difficulty with the VSpec. however, i did have to spend a wee bit more time getting the VSpec tuned right, once i had the settings in the right range, it held it as well as the V01.

[JamminJay]

OOOOOOOOOooooooohhhhh V01b.... I love that engine. Got more? I miss mine lol. :(

[KanaiDude]

248 shipped that is very cheap, that motor is really pretty awesome, I've heard some people are having problems with the front bearing and are putting some nova bearings in it, if it weren't for that I might consider buying one, very responsive and easy to tune. I was running my mod S72 this weekend, did pretty well but I think my clutch shoes are totally glazed up, not to snappy, composite shoes and mod motors just don't mix to well, going back to mugen alluminum.

[dgrobe2112]

KD.. yeah.. i heard about the bearing issues also.. thats, and turbo motor is a reason for not getting one sofar..

My WS7II, never really liked composite shoes.. but.. they did work.. they just didnt last that long.. i tried aluminum shoes.. and never went back..

[JamminJay]

Can someone here do me a favor? Put your buggy on a table, or something flat and measure the ground clearance from the ground to the chassis, seems like mine sits rather high, altho my cvds, are level. :confused:

Thankx

[performula]

If I'm correct the arms should be level not the axles. The axles will be angled if the arms are level.

[KanaiDude]

I'm running a turbo plug in my TZ on my Revo and have never had an easier motor to tune, so I wouldn't let that stear you off, just the bearing issue, I guess the plugs cost more to though.

[eugene albert]

extreamduty, how did u do your paint job ????? looking to do something simmular....
i have a firehammer 1/5 scail with a all white ABS body i've got 4 coats of burnt orange on it at present... how did u do your strips??? what size needle did u use in your air brush??? did u use an air brush???any help u can give me?????
hope to hear from u soon, thanks eugene albert aka wazoo

[ExtremeDuty]

extreamduty, how did u do your paint job ????? looking to do something simmular....
i have a firehammer 1/5 scail with a all white ABS body i've got 4 coats of burnt orange on it at present... how did u do your strips??? what size needle did u use in your air brush??? did u use an air brush???any help u can give me?????
hope to hear from u soon, thanks eugene albert aka wazoo

On lexan RC body, dark colors are applied before light colors.
1. apply liquid mask & dry
2. cut out strip patterns & paint black (or dark color)
3. remove the remaining mask & paint orange (or light color)
4. paint white to back-up the light color (makes the light color brighter)

However, you said you already painted orange? Hum I don't know...
Maybe you could apply strips externally?

[ExtremeDuty]

After work, I ran one more tank today. Ended up scratching the precious chassis bottom.... :D Heh~ see that coming.

I tried mine on hard surface w/ loose dirt place. Mine spinned out a lot on start. Tranction was lacking and low-end torque was too much?
Overall, it felt kind of jumpy or tippy (is this right expression?). Is this due to having stiff shock (high weight shock oil)? When I assembled it, I didn't have 50/30 wt shock fluids. So I used 60/40 wt. I use stock black springs & shock pistons per manual. Should I go to 50/30 wt?

Another question, is OFNA Hyper 8 port engine considered as low-end motor? Torque was nice but it felt it was running of breath very quick as RPM raced up.
Probably due to POS el cheapo OFNA pipe.

[ExtremeDuty]

Can someone here do me a favor? Put your buggy on a table, or something flat and measure the ground clearance from the ground to the chassis, seems like mine sits rather high, altho my cvds, are level. :confused:

Thankx

DG once answered my question on setting ride height.

"most guys set the ride height.. where the dogbones are just above level in front.. and level in the rear.."

[wyl03]

248 shipped that is very cheap, that motor is really pretty awesome, I've heard some people are having problems with the front bearing and are putting some nova bearings in it, if it weren't for that I might consider buying one, very responsive and easy to tune. I was running my mod S72 this weekend, did pretty well but I think my clutch shoes are totally glazed up, not to snappy, composite shoes and mod motors just don't mix to well, going back to mugen alluminum.

it's the main bearing that usually craps out first on the OS's. my 1st V01's main bearing was changed to a Nova one and it just ran and ran continuously. i used a Boca ceramic main bearing for my 2nd V01 and that is still running strong too.
will definitely change out the VSpec's main bearing after a couple more races.

re clutch shoes, i like the kyosho black composite shoes. they ARE expensive but man .. do they last!

[KanaiDude]

Check out the tabletop where I was running this last weekend, was there first raceday and was free pretty sweet, some software glitches but all in all they did a great job for there first day.
Massive Tabletop (http://home.earthlink.net/~evmaynard/id7.html) I ended up landing off to the side a few times and hit the front side of my car once, I think thats what busted my 357 servo it stopped working like 15 seconds later, oh well was fun and free (sort of) next time I race there don't know if i'll go for the tabletop anymore pretty much have to hit it perfect every time to make it worth it.

Extreme, I doubt the 8-port is really a low-end motor, 8-ports usually means its sort of a mid-high end motor.

Wyl03 thats what I was running kyosho composite, mod motors kill them in like 2 days, I was suprised to as I used to run them all the time on OS motors, but a mod P5 or RB chews them up and spits them out, Mugen alluminum shoes are the longest lasting and provide the best snap from what I've seen so far.

[dgrobe2112]

Extreme.. on a loose track.. that is dusty.. and low bite.. the car will be very loose.. you will have to do things to help with looseness.. mainly.. tires.. but also throttle control.. that is a big thing.. easier on the gas..

KD.. that track looks sweet.. that dirt is killer.. looks like a lot of fun..

[eugene albert]

On lexan RC body, dark colors are applied before light colors.
1. apply liquid mask & dry
2. cut out strip patterns & paint black (or dark color)
3. remove the remaining mask & paint orange (or light color)
4. paint white to back-up the light color (makes the light color brighter)

However, you said you already painted orange? Hum I don't know...
Maybe you could apply strips externally?
i don't know i u raed that my body is not clear lexand it looks to be white abs so painting from the inside is out... i do thank u for the help... all the people on this site have been so nice and helpfull ... thank u all
e. albert aka. wazoo

[Lapster]

Hey guys, what do you think of the fantom .21 race engine??

[JamminJay]

Thats funny I was looking at one today. I personally like Fantom and would like to support them since they are based here in my home state of Michigan. I just wish that .21 had the red head like the FR.12 ;) it would match my car alot better.


BTW, since we changed to the subject of engines.... can anyone tell me anything about SH engines? I read that they are from Japan, are they as good as OS? All I have seen is a few pics online and it looks like black and what they call "gold" are the two main head colors, altho the gold looks more like an RB orange? Anyway, I heard the .28 was killer in MTs, anyone know anything else about these engines?

[dgrobe2112]

i have read some good and some bad on the SH motors.. dont know first hand.. i will have to go find some post about them.. some saying lack of power.. other saying they dont last long enough.. others saying great power..

Fantom engines are good.. the ones i seen run, rip.. it would be cool if they had the same kinda head on them as their gas truck engines though.. hahah

[JamminJay]

So in comparative you think i should stick to the "RG" over a SH? People are tellin me the RG isnt that great of an engine, altho I thought otherwise. I just don't have the $ to shell out over $200 on an engine, tho I'd love to have an RB ws7II, or vzb-01, or vspec. If I could find one second hand from a trustworthy person, then great, but thats a dime a dozen. :D

[KyoshoKev]

try STS d21b they are only $150

[dgrobe2112]

or get a Collari B3.. 180.. that might be my next motor.. but.. i went and read what some people have said about the SH engine.. seems to be ok.. not alot of bad.. they say they get pretty good gas mileage, lack a little on the top end.. but a very smooth engine.. provides power very smooth.

[rstnboy]

I own both the SH .28 and the OS RG. Both are good motors but my personal preference is the RG. The SH is installed in my XLB and pushes it around quite well. It has gobs of low end and tunes up pretty well. As stated above, it does lack on the top end though.

The RG is just a cut above the SH. There is a certain smoothness to it that is missing from the SH and it holds a tune like no other engine I have ever seen. Going from a 70 degree day to a 40 degree day I might have to adjust the HSN 1/8 turn but that is about it. The only thing I wish was different was the size of the exhaust port where the manifold is connected. The only manifold gasket I have found that provides a good seal is the Ofna orange one. The one that comes with the RG is too thin. A friend of mine also runs an RG in an MBX5 with a JP-2 pipe/manifold and he has the same problem. Other than that, especially for the money, I think it's a great, reliable engine.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. i have to agree.. the RG, at only 130 bux.. max.. is great.. and when you wear it out.. send it to OS rocket, or buy a new piston and sleeve for cheap.. cheap..

[JamminJay]

So, in your guys opinions, I should just keep it since it is new, and just run the balls outta it? LoL. I like it and looks mean as hell with that nova head on it... get a matching Jp-2, and it will look real nice :D

[Lapster]

I guess i'm sold on the fantom... unless there is anything else you guys can tell me.

[dgrobe2112]

the fantom.. which one.. and what is the price of the motor?

[Motorman007]

or get a Collari B3.. 180.. that might be my next motor.. but.. i went and read what some people have said about the SH engine.. seems to be ok.. not alot of bad.. they say they get pretty good gas mileage, lack a little on the top end.. but a very smooth engine.. provides power very smooth.


Yo D i was thinking the same thing about the B3 motor. seem good but needs more top from what i seen, but the price is good for 180 for a good race motor.


also the CMB RS .21 seem to be a good motor too, but this is all hearsay you know.

Big Bobby M. said he love his. i know in 2003 Nats here in OK his CMB was rolling strong.

The down side is the motor cost $319. I'm still thinking about that. hahaha

you know i'm a cheap guy when it comes to buying a motor. I'm going to see what Bobby can do. if he can get one for 250 i will try it out.

Also, Alan said it had more Top then a V-spec and a smooth bottom like the v-spec.


Smooth is the ket to this hobby. u want a motor that is smooth and want blow your tires off every time you hit the gas.


so i have some thinking to do.

just what to drop that on you guys.

[Motorman007]

ALSO stay away from the Fantom motors. hahaha

i seen some just die!! lol

how much do you have to spend?