Inferno MP777

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. i heard good things on the CMB motors.. but they are kinda high.. i prefer the P5.. but i am always lookin for the new stuff.. and for prices to come down.. and for 180 bux.. that collari is a bargain.. i know Harrison runs that motor.. seems to work great for him.. tons of bottom he said.. and very smooth..

The fantom engines.. look to be pretty good in the price area.. their specs are very nice also.. i seen their smaller engines run and they run great.. i think fantom makes very good products.. i just dont know bout the big ones..

[Motorman007]

they .12 are super good. the .21 hahaha i'm not so sure.

yes Price is high on the cmb motors.

D, Harrison is getting 10-12 min a tank.

Harrison never go full wood on any track. he is smooth smooth driver. i ask him do you have any exp on. hahah he said NO all my finger. he never stop moving and never have extra wheels spinning going on when he drives.

i know i can get 9 min on the spec easy. and that is with the Big 9 mm insert too.

at our 7 min q's i have a little over a 1.4 tank left i run the spec at 190-240 depend on the day. lap times in the 40's. as you see the track is big.

that is the only reason i keep running the OS motor is b.c of the longer run time. It all adds up if you look at it. take a 20 min main u just need maybe 1.5 pit stop and if you are froggy go for one pit.

just think a 45 min main how many pits do you have to make. if u get 10min a tank
4.5 stops

if u have 7 min tank u make 6.5 stops.

it is like NAscar know your motor and plan mileage. and u could out last the others.

what can u get on that P5 motor. my last one i was getting 7.5 with the 53 pipe
and 7 with the 86 pipe.

but if that cmb motor can get 10 easy it is worth the 319.

if the B3 can get 10 it is worth the 180 easy easy.

i say guys pick a motor that can go longer which keeps u on the track longer. you never know u may end up 1st or 2nd or 3th. b.c you out lasted the others.

[dgrobe2112]

i get 8 minutes out of my P5, with a 53.. but that is pushing it.. i make the 7:30 mark easy.. 8 minutes.. i am stressin on the stand.. i run the tank during practice.. and get around 8:30-9 minutes.. during practice.. so i try 8 minutes if needed.. depending on the track.. and how much full throttle time there is.. in a 15 minute main.. i gotta stop 1 time.. and you gotta stop 1 time.. get over 20 minutes.. is when you start makin time on me.. 25 minute main.. i gotta stop 3 times.. your possibly 2.. 30 minute main.. i gotta stop 4 times.. you only 3.. 45 minute main.. it would be 6 stops.. compared to your 4 stops.. that is huge..

[Motorman007]

You are right D.

u going to Speed Racer this weekend for that xray race?

[dgrobe2112]

no.. cant make that one.. getting things squared away for nationals.. might come up and check it out.. we were thinkin of going to JCG for some club racing.. but.. sounds like everyone is going to SRH for that one.. i didntn know bout that race..

[KanaiDude]

DG you still using the helios? thinking of bailing on my M8 when I buy a spektrum, looks like it fits the hand a little better I always felt my M8 was unbalanced a little. Wish someone I raced with had one so I could at least pick it up, would you ever go back to the M8 or you love the EX10?

Hey do any of you guys have problems with the fuel line splitting right after the fuel filter where the throttle linkage goes, I think my os air filter actually causes it, i've got a temporary fix where I took the fuel filter out and rerouted the line but I need the extra milage from that filter, I'd like to even add another one for our upcomming race with 10 minute qualifiers so I don't have to pit. I've got a few spacers under the fuel filter holder to boost it up over the throttle linkage but that in turn pushes the fuel line into the air filter, which the lip of the air filter is snagging the line a little, just curious if you guys had experienced this at all, cost me a race once where the fule line split, and now I just replace the line more often.

[ExtremeDuty]

I ran couple of tanks for bash at near construction site.
Everything was too rough even for a monster truck. So mine ended up rolling all over the place. Broke the rear wing.
Except the wing, nothing broke. I can't wait to run it on a track... :D

[dgrobe2112]

KD, i got my fuel line most likely routed like you do.. from the tank, toward the front of the car.. wrap around, then into the fuel filter.. out the fuel filter under the air filter, around the neck of the filter.. into the carb.. now.. i got my fuel filter spaced up quite a bit.. i dont have a camera, or i would take a picture to show you.. i will work in it and see bout getting a pic for you.. i dont have a problem of the fuel line splitting.. reason i got it spaced up.. is becuase the fuel line would rub where the brake stuff was moving.. so i spaced it.. and tried wrapping it different.. but couldnt find a clean way of doing it..

Also, i dumped the OS super filter. well.. not really.. i took the neck off and used the neck from the MGT filter.. nice and short filter neck.. let me work on some pics.. and i will post them..

[KanaiDude]

Cool thanks, glad to hear you've had some issues with it to my fuel line was/will be again routed just like yours, i'll probably go back to a adding even more shims, and then maybe cutting the lip off the bottom part of the air filter for now, something like that, I have an extra set of plates for the filter so I could experiment a little. What about your helios, and also the spektrum for that matter you going to pick up one of those soon, seems to be the trend, haven't taken many radio hits in a while but when it happens it's a bad day ya know, plus the freedom of never being on someones channel for motor tuning or something...

[dgrobe2112]

oh.. i got a pretty good size spacer under neath my filter mount.. its the same size as the wheel spacer for a Losi XXXNT.. front wheel.. spaces it up there pretty good.. also.. you may try mounting your filter to the splash guard with a screw and 3mm lock nut.. i seen that done.. is pretty trick..

I would not go back to the M8.. i like the feel of the helios so much better.. and i allread got the Spektrum.. used it last weekend for the first time.. no flaws at all.. was very nice to not have to worry bout anything.. just turn it on.. and the failsafe is sweet.. i can turn the car on, and crank it.. on the box.. in the pits.. and not need the radio on.. and it helped alot. cuz i needed the radio to tune my motor in the pits bigtime..

[Lapster]

I just called the shop and put the order for the FR 21. I'm hoping it is as good as everyone says it is.

[KanaiDude]

Think I'll try attaching it to the splash guard sounds like a good idea. I'll probably go for the Helios, I'm in the middle of getting my wife out of the house, but in another month or so will be bye bye M8 hello EX10/Spektrum. Ahhh no wife to nag me about racing woot! Had some beer and chips in the bed last night, most liberating thing i've done in 5 years...

[dgrobe2112]

lmao.. crumbs in the bed and everything.. good luck with the new lifestyle.. hope all works well for you.. you will love the helios.. i put the wheel extension on the radio.. i like that.. cuz its adjustable.. i didnt tighten the wheel adjuster down.. like some peole do.. i am able to adjust it as i need too.. one thing.. the wheel extension.. puts more weight over the center.. basically.. holding it in your hands.. its more balanced in my hands.. but.. when you set the radio on the table to stand up.. seemed kinda front heavy.. wanted to fall forward.. the spektrum really balanced it out that way.. but didnt change the feel of the radio..

It is rather weird not having the antenna up..

[Motorman007]

lmao.. crumbs in the bed and everything.. good luck with the new lifestyle.. hope all works well for you.. you will love the helios.. i put the wheel extension on the radio.. i like that.. cuz its adjustable.. i didnt tighten the wheel adjuster down.. like some peole do.. i am able to adjust it as i need too.. one thing.. the wheel extension.. puts more weight over the center.. basically.. holding it in your hands.. its more balanced in my hands.. but.. when you set the radio on the table to stand up.. seemed kinda front heavy.. wanted to fall forward.. the spektrum really balanced it out that way.. but didnt change the feel of the radio..

It is rather weird not having the antenna up..



i can not wait to get my spektrum.



D have your drove GT?

i was thinking of trying one again to see if i'm missing anything.

here it is

I have a used GT for sale. The entire truck has less than a gallon
3/4 of a gallon of fuel through it including servos. It comes with
the following: four shoe clutch, crescenci clutch nut, os .12 with cz
head (freshly anodized), futaba s9350 servos, complete Tebo set up in
the rear and front (i.e. T4 rear axles, drilled bulkhead with mugen
captured ball ends, custom machined losi axles) the exhaust has never
seen dirt because I used an o'donnell exhaust, T4 threaded shock
bodies, trinity receiver case, complete set of new tires on proline
velocity wheels, 1 set with one run also includes clear body that
comes with the kit, the 4 stock wheels that come with the kit,
directions and the box. Asking 450 shipped or best offer. Email for
pics. Email
address in profile.


everything but the motor for $350

he is a local guy i know here he had Kyle S. set it up like Tebo's and his.

i'm not sure if i should try it. b.c. i got wind of a New GT!!! on the low low.

what is your take D?



don't get me wrong D my losi is working great.

i made the B in truck at the RC Pro Series and i only had been on the track with it for maybe 8 or 10 times before that race.

just trying to see if i'm missing something!!

[JamminJay]

[QUOTE=KanaiDude]but in another month or so will be bye bye M8 hello EX10/Spektrum. Ahhh no wife to nag me about racing woot! QUOTE]


KD, I must agree with you, I've owned a Lynx 3d, M8, and now the XS3, the JR used to be what I thought was the most comfortable radio in my hand. Until 2 weeks ago. My buddy Bill bought a new Helios and was raving about all the features.... I didn't see the big point of why he switchd from a synthesized (XS3 pro) to a Helios. I thought that was dumb for a racer.... Until I picked it up and put it in my hand..... I wasn't raving about the feature, cuz I'll only use half of them, and the ones I'll use are std on any good fm radio. However i was raving about how comfortable it was, and like him, my XS3 is now for sale too :) And yes like him once I get it, I will get a spectrum also. Just had to chime in here, I think it's a sweet radio.... go for it.

[dgrobe2112]

Dibbs.. there is supposedly a new truck coming out.. trust me your not missing anything.. i would not pay that much for a used GT.. even if it has hopups on it.. but.. thats me.. i never liked the GT.. and yes.. there is a new truck coming.. sposed to be at the Nats.. but we will see..

Jay.. your right.. the radio feels really good in my hands.. i was happy with the trigger feel.. also.. the speed and response of the car to the radio is amazing.. and.. you can really tune your car with the radio.. if you have too much punch.. say in a gas truck.. you can change the throttle curve.. so it is slow response for the first 1/4 pull of the trigger.. or more if you wish.. then when it hits a certain point in the curve.. the throw is back to normal.. its a great radio.. i think there is alot on the radio that doesnt get used.. but.. everything on the radio is so easily accessible..

Only downfall KD.. there is no Spos button like on your M8.. to open the throttle for a split second until the car starts up.. you know what im saying?? that feature is not on this radio..

[Motorman007]

Dibbs.. there is supposedly a new truck coming out.. trust me your not missing anything.. i would not pay that much for a used GT.. even if it has hopups on it.. but.. thats me.. i never liked the GT.. and yes.. there is a new truck coming.. sposed to be at the Nats.. but we will see..

Jay.. your right.. the radio feels really good in my hands.. i was happy with the trigger feel.. also.. the speed and response of the car to the radio is amazing.. and.. you can really tune your car with the radio.. if you have too much punch.. say in a gas truck.. you can change the throttle curve.. so it is slow response for the first 1/4 pull of the trigger.. or more if you wish.. then when it hits a certain point in the curve.. the throw is back to normal.. its a great radio.. i think there is alot on the radio that doesnt get used.. but.. everything on the radio is so easily accessible..

Only downfall KD.. there is no Spos button like on your M8.. to open the throttle for a split second until the car starts up.. you know what im saying?? that feature is not on this radio..



D i will do as you say and pass on it. haahah.

always thinking the grass is greener on the other side. hahaah

and with the Spektrum you don't lose any response time with it?

2 more weeks before mines come in. i hope

thanx for your help

dibs

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. there is always that wonder if the other is better.. and its tough.. cuz there is alot of great drivers.. like Tebo, and skidmore.. that make it look easy.. you know.. i didnt notice any slower response or anything.. it was a direct swap over.. didnt notice any difference..

[invsible]

hey guys i had a huge problem with traction roll this weekend at the new track at delta r/c the track is huge fast and rough i am running blue springs all around, 50wt front oil, 40wt rear oil, 2 deg. of camber, 2.5 rear sway bar and the middle size front sway bar that comes in the sway bar kit dont remember what size it is, tires were komodo 2 and cutting the outside knobs did not help. any ideas?

[KanaiDude]

Did you adjust your front and rear camber so your tires looked a little like this / \ should be just a few degrees, 1-3 depending how bad your traction roll is. Other then that you just need to remember the roll spots and compensate with low speed driving around those spots, once you get really good at correcting your driving for traction roll, you should only roll a few times in the beginning of a main, after that it's up to you to correct it with your driving style, good luck we all been there...

[invsible]

ya i had neg. camber i tried slowing down a little but it did not seem to help i was thinkg about stiffing up the suspension.

[KanaiDude]

Most of us are running rear dogbones at level and front a little about level, with all of the travel this reguires it being fairly stiff, i'm running 1 large and 1 medium preload on front and back shocks, I don't care for a soft suspension the car doesnt handle well for me without it being pretty stiff.

[RCSavage]

Try raising the camber links up at the shock tower to help prevent traction rolling. It lowers the roll center.

[Lapster]

Hey, have any of you guys got your hands on a set of pro-line's new Inside Job tire? Do you guys think it would work weel on dusty hard packed dry clay? I'm sure it would work... the question is tire wear. Would a tire like that wear quickly?

[wyl03]

try changing your droop settings to counter traction roll.

how about using other tyres?

[invsible]

im going to try other tires and stiffer suspension this weekend, thanks guys

[invsible]

have any of you used the panther wheels or know it they are the same as the ofna wheels?

[KanaiDude]

I didn't know panther made rims? have any of you tried the molded foams I heard they hook up pretty good to. The k1's have a little less side bight and more forward traction and they last like twice as long as the k2's for some reason, may want to try crime fighters also othey are a little less aggressive then panthers.

[invsible]

some guys had chamelons and looked pretty good so i got a set of those and a set of gekcos coming, my tire guy was out of pro-line tires, the panther rims are on the www.panther-rc.com web site $12.00 a set of four in yellow or white. i heard the foams were really firm. a lot of guys in my area do not like them and tebo does not use his grp ones he uses regular foam

[ngo8]

does anyone with a novarossi P5 know if its ready to run for 30% fuel or do i have to shim the head for it to run that fuel oh yeah its normal head not turbo head if it matters any help would be great .

[JamminJay]

As you know I been building my buggy up and its about ready to go. Well I got this brand new RG, and I got my flyweeh on already. I purchased the Kyosho 1.1 clutch springs, and using the stock aluminum shoes. I can not, and I mean can not get the springs over the nut. I tried fro over an hour and couldn't get one. Is there any special way to help me with this? I have done clutch setups like this before on .21s and never had this problem. What is the best way? Thanx in advance.







-J.J.

[wyl03]

use 2 screw drivers. check out the article on installing 3-pc clutch in Paco's website:

http://www.twf8.ws

[KanaiDude]

I use needle nose plyers to get the spring on, when the shoe and spring are barely seated on the post, using your thumb or finger press down the best you can on the shoe and press the needle nose plyers with one end against the nut, and the other going onto the other side of the spring that needs to be pushed down, basically your going to use the nose on the plyers to push and slide the spring across the top face of the nut untill it makes its way over the lip of the nut, then resposition the plyers so you are using one end on the fly wheel and use the other to slide the spring down into the groove of the nut. Sorry this is the best way I can explain how I do it, it's not easy but have gotten a pretty good routine with this method, good luck...

[ExtremeDuty]

As you know I been building my buggy up and its about ready to go. Well I got this brand new RG, and I got my flyweeh on already. I purchased the Kyosho 1.1 clutch springs, and using the stock aluminum shoes. I can not, and I mean can not get the springs over the nut. I tried fro over an hour and couldn't get one. Is there any special way to help me with this? I have done clutch setups like this before on .21s and never had this problem. What is the best way? Thanx in advance.

-J.J.

Jay, when do you plan to pick up the turnbuckles?
Anyway, mine went ok. I used a flat screw driver carefully place the spring over the nut. I got leverage of the screw drive, and it was easily done.

Since you've done it before, I don't see any problem though... Just wait & cool it...and try later.

[JamminJay]

Extreme.. I will try to get them as soon as I can from you..$ has been tight so i havent bought anything in the last few weeks that i haven't needed...even had my long distance shut off cuz of being late on my bill :(

Yea I have done this before on my VZ01b I used to have. I tried the screw driver thing and it kept slipping off, I can just see it gouging a chunk into or out of my palm. It sux not having a decent place to work on stuff, I mean I got a hobby room with a decent table, and necessary stuff..ottlite, dremels, aircompressor, but a vise sure would be great... sux asslembing and working on everything with in your hand.... especially soldering, man what a task trying to hold 2 wires and solder them too :D

[JamminJay]

BTW, you said you live in belleville or close? are you around on weekends? Maybe I'll just have my son mom get them sometime when she brings my son out to me, since she lives in Canton on Mott rd. Pm me or let me know like what area or rd you live on and I'll see if its out of the way.

[invsible]

get one of these http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=47_84&products_id=6023 many companys make them and you will have your clutch springs on in 10 seconds!!!!!!!! no more screw driver holes in your hands

[JamminJay]

well, after all my troubles and struggling for about an hour, I got the first one, and did the other 2 the same way in about 30 seconds..... go figure... stubborn things.... but thanx.

[Ribz]

man the 1.1 springs are a mother to put on! took me awhile too, the sad thing is i drove the car about a half tank and switched back to the 1.0s (which are really easy to put on now!=) because i hated the 1.1s =/

[wyl03]

get one of these http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=47_84&products_id=6023 many companys make them and you will have your clutch springs on in 10 seconds!!!!!!!! no more screw driver holes in your hands

yes .. that tool is really cool. VERY easy to work .. seen one with my own eyes. wouldn't mind having 1 myself :D

as u guys might already know - new Fioroni chassis is coming ur way.
it will be possible to change the location of the rear bulkhead .. but i wonder what happens to the kick-up plate, toe-in and rear universal?
http://www.neo-buggy.net/fio-mp777chassis.jpg

[JamminJay]

I know those chassis' are supposed to be the shiznit. But I think all them fioroni chassis are ugly as hell...I'll just stick to my stock unit.

[Ribz]

that chassis looks pretty sweet to me

well after 6 gallons my P5 gave it up, i was running it pretty lean, still had lots of smoke and temps were around 250 for the most part, had 2 runaways in its time even with a fail safe. so for the most part im happy

i did just get a s7II, but it didnt come with any restrictors for the carb intake, should i use any or just run it the way it is, i thought it was unusual that it didnt have a restrictor, did you guys get them with your ws7II? i got the s7II for $220 and its supposed to be the c4s7II not the econo ver. what do you guys think, i want to start break in on this sucker but im not sure what i should do about the carb

[Buggy Master]

hey guys,

it doesn't seem like kyosho sells diff gaskets separately without buying the diff case. i can't find any. has anyone found one from another manufacturer that fits perfectly and will not leak? maybe the ofna one for the 9.5?

[dgrobe2112]

these are what i use.. work great.. no leak problems at all..

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCWN2&P=7

also.. if your hobby shop has some for a hyper7.. they will work also..

[dgrobe2112]

Nationals.. in t-minus.. 8 hours till departure for harlingen.. gonna be a ton of fun.. dont really care how i do at this event.. i am just going to experience nationals.. and get to race with some of the fastest in the world.. :)

[JamminJay]

Well good luck and have a kick azz time!!!! :cool:

[KanaiDude]

Good Luck DG!! Our hot shoe Chris Crews is going, when you see him you'll know why I come in 2-3 all the time! Seriously it is just awesome to go and experience it.

I came in 3rd AGAIN in buggy this weekend, 2nd in MT, at least I had two podium finishes not bad I guess. My S72mod is really waking up, delivering the smoothness that an RB is known for, running it about 200 for 8 minutes tons of power shwing! I think I'm selling the Revo anybody want one LOL, to much to fit into my new little mid life crisis sports car I'm buying with yee old wife out of the picture...

[JamminJay]

Not that its my bizness.... but sorry to hear about the wife deal.... yea Mazda Miatas arent good to haul rc stuff with hahaha :p What did ya get?


Congrats on the finishes btw.

[JamminJay]

O yea....

Well, guys, I tried to fire up the buggy this weekend... GRRRRRRRR
I don't have a starter box for it yet so i was using the black ofna 2 motor box I use on my xxxNT, I just turned the motors around in it. Man, this box wont even touch it. I even heated the engine up to 130* with a hair dryer, and it will only turn it over with the glow plug completely out. Even if I try to thread it one time...... nothing, stops at tdc. then i take a screw driver, work it over to bdc, and try again...... aint happening. so looks like I gotta wait till I get a good box.


BTW, DG - thanx for the advice, the A.D. xxxNT, now sports a CV red head, with a black O'donnell head..... man i hate that red thing. :D

[KanaiDude]

Thanks! Yea the wife deal bummed me out for a little while, she left I guess I didn't spend enough time with her or something, even though her idea of a good time is being out at the bar until 4am every friday night, I know 30's not old but I guess I thought she would slow down at some point, but with her going out and me racing = her unhappy even though she wouldn't step foot on a racetrack and I would go out with her plenty of times, now she calls me with this real depressive voice like I should come save her, damn scorpios can I say more maitnance required then an RC car... I'm trying to buy a 01-02 Celica Silver/blue GTS just waiting for the right one to pop up on Carmax

[wyl03]

hey guys,

it doesn't seem like kyosho sells diff gaskets separately without buying the diff case. i can't find any. has anyone found one from another manufacturer that fits perfectly and will not leak? maybe the ofna one for the 9.5?


Original Kyosho diff gasket's part-number = IF030-01.

Costs double that of the Ofna's :eek:

A gasket is a gasket is a gasket ..

[Buggy Master]

Original Kyosho diff gasket's part-number = IF030-01.

Costs double that of the Ofna's :eek:

A gasket is a gasket is a gasket ..

will this gasket fit the mp7.5/777 diffs? it says for the inferno series. i know the mp5/6 had bigger diffs. thanks

[Scrad]

Do you guys boil your wings? I running my buggy over the weekend and cracked my wing a little bit. Just wondering if that would help in the future.

[AreCee]

Boiling helps a little. Not flipping over helps a lot more (LOL)!

[philadater]

News about the new Inferno MP777 SP2 on Neo-Buggy.net (http://www.neo-buggy.net)

[KanaiDude]

Damn yet another version, I'm just about to rebuild mine from the ground up, hopefully it will go the distance until the new one comes out... Neo buggy has been stepping up there content a little, will be fun to watch the nationals on there, I know a couple of people going.

[youthmanrcer]

Hey guys, I just purchased my first Kyosho buggy...the MP777 standard. I am not new to nitro, but am new to 1/8 scale buggy. I am looking for a good beginner engine and am trying to decide between the OS RG, or the Ofna Hyper 7 8 port. Any comments on either of these two engines? I realize they aren't top of the line, but I am just looking for a good engine to get started. I can get the RG from my local hobby shop for $109.99.

[JamminJay]

Hey there youth... welcome to " our " forum. Well, i have the RG in my buggy, and altho i am just finishing up assembly... and havent technically started mine, I do know that OS engines are great engines and hold a tune great, and as you said $110 is a great deal. As for the hyper 8 port, I have never owned one personally, but have heard they run good, but are hard to tune and and dont hold a tune well. So, I guess if ya want my vote between those 2 - it would be the OS.




Have you guys seen the new JR Z-1 radio in the "New" forum? I just called Horizon this morning and placed my name on the list for a preorder. JR & KO teamed up together on this radio. It is a KO EX-10 Helios, in every nature, even the drop down & pc connect will work with it. The only exception with this radio is it is synthesized and comes with the JR RS310 rx. It was right on time too. As I was gonna buy the Helios and spektrum this summer, but hell. I am getting this now. I don't need the spektrum... I just don't want a conflict with channels at the track, besides, I'm sure they will make a spektrum for this unit as well, if the helios one doesnt already work.

[KanaiDude]

I agree with Jay, the hyper doesn't seem to hold a tune to well, the RG is by far one of the best motors for that price, I had a friend that would mod his and make it scream and just buy a new one every 6 months. I'll have to check out that radio Jay, almost to the point of buying one now, the helios spektrum unit is so hard to get is what is holding me back, dinball just listed a few but I dunno its a little bit of a gamble buying from him, he'll come through but just depends on the time frame.

[JamminJay]

KD... well I know theres some for the Helios on Ebay... I think right from the distributer maybe not.. is Dinball in HK. I know I ordered my chassis braces and cvds for my 777 from HK and they got here in 10 days. I was pretty surprised.

BTw.. anyone got some old tires they can donate me to break in my engine? I don't really care what they are... I am looking for something fairly wore out that I can use to break this in on a parking lot?

[rstnboy]

I am looking for a good beginner engine and am trying to decide between the OS RG, or the Ofna Hyper 7 8 port. Any comments on either of these two engines?

My recommendation would be for the RG. I have two of them (one in an MP7.5 and one in an MP777) and both run great and hold a tune really well. I even convinced a friend of mine to abandon his Hyper 8 port race engine in favor of the RG and he couldn't be happier. We used to go to the track and he would spend his time tuning his Hyper while I was turning laps with the RG. In retrospect, I guess he saved a lot of money on fuel but I was definately having a much more enjoyable time. Now his fuel expenditure is just as much as mine but he actually gets to run on the track instead of behind it. If any re-tuning has to be done (like for a day when the temps suddenly drop) it is at most a 1/8th turn of the HSN and all is well again. You won't regret buying the RG.

[youthmanrcer]

Thanks for the help guys, I have made up my mind to go with the RG.

[JamminJay]

Ahhhh you learn very quick grasshopper......

now get you either a jp-2 or 053, I hear from everyone here that they work awesome.

[grimlock3000]

With an OS 21 RG, wouldn't you want a 086 pipe to help with the top end? My understanding was that the RG had plenty of low end and mid range, but did not have the top end. The 086 can help with this, without a loss of lower RPM power.

[KanaiDude]

The jp-2 is a top end pipe, and the 053 is a midrange and is quickly becomming racers choice for alot of different applications, the jp-2 would probably be best as it is technically a mid/top end pipe, it is my favorite pipe used with a P5. I am currently running the 053 on a s72mod which uses the whole powerband its not top or bottom heavy.

[KanaiDude]

So anybody wanna go racing for real, my new ride weeeeeeeee

[JamminJay]

Very nice..... RSX correct? Does it got alotta engine goodies too? What State do you live in? That backdrop seems kinda familiar. Prolly not tho.

[KanaiDude]

yea rsx-s i'm pretty stoked it has tons of goodies, intake throttle body cams struts springs diff ecu window gauges manifold greddy exhaust blue plush racing seats bose stereo, no turbo but i doubt i would have bought it if it did, it has just enough mods to make it reliable yet much faster then stock its got about 250hp. I bought the car in albany NY and had to fly there from NC to pick it up and drive home 10 hours LoL, well worth the trip for the price the car has 7k miles on it and was owned by an acura tech, carbon fiber hood side mirrors wing, may even have to take it to a car show and lie and say yea i did that J/k get some girlies to rub on it ok i'll stop dreaming now sort of now I just have to avoid the speed traps yikes!!!

[ngo8]

kyosho mp777 roar national champion 1-2-3 sweep at the nats :) :D

[JamminJay]

yea rsx-s i'm pretty stoked it has tons of goodies, intake throttle body cams struts springs diff ecu window gauges manifold greddy exhaust blue plush racing seats bose stereo, no turbo but i doubt i would have bought it if it did, it has just enough mods to make it reliable yet much faster then stock its got about 250hp. I bought the car in albany NY and had to fly there from NC to pick it up and drive home 10 hours LoL, well worth the trip for the price the car has 7k miles on it and was owned by an acura tech, carbon fiber hood side mirrors wing, may even have to take it to a car show and lie and say yea i did that J/k get some girlies to rub on it ok i'll stop dreaming now sort of now I just have to avoid the speed traps yikes!!!



N-I-C-E.

[Mika]

Nice indeed - now back to R/C .. has anyone tried this Trinity brake disc in their Inferno ? Comments ?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSC4&P=7
Seem less than half the K special brake disc..I wonder how do they compare..

[KanaiDude]

Mika, I would go with the craddock brakes instead, I love them will make your car endo if you hit them to hard and there dialed on the front, those trinity discs are nicer then stock I bet, but the craddocks have no brake fade, and you can even get fuel on them and there fine. Kyosho 1-2-3 baby who's your Daddy.........

[JamminJay]

Who's your Daddy.......

That's tooo funny!








Spank that azzzz

[Mika]

Sorry my english, what's a craddock disc? Is it fiber? Have you got a link? Thanks.

edit: OK, I found it
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5935005938&ssPageName=MERC_VI_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores

[KanaiDude]

Cradock Brakes (http://www.racers-edge.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=23221&cat=488&page=1)

Racers-edge sells them and you can find them on ebay usually, don't need the anti-lock ones really but I couldn't find the standard ones quickly. One of the best hop ups you can get...

[Mika]

Ok, already ordered 2 pairs from eBay, thanks for the tip.. $10 a pair.
So you use brakes without pads with these, right?

[KanaiDude]

Yep no pads just the steel calipers, works awesome...

[grimlock3000]

I ordered the $320 MP777 kit from www.ultimatehobbies and it showed up on Friday. I have always wanted a Kyosho 1/8th buggy and this price was too good to pass up. In the next few days I will begin building the kit. This is going to be my 3rd nitro build, 6th RC total. I am selling some of my other cars to focus on the buggy for a while. I have browsed most of this thread for general pointers with the MP777. The buggy will be a basher however I plan to race it a few times later in the summer if I get time.

For parts to start with, I have SP1 shock towers and SP1 blue springs from eBay. These seemed to be well worth the prices of $20 each. I also have 5/7/1 diff oil and 50/30 shock oil. I am planning to build the kit to box specs and then working with it from there. Are there any other "must have" parts I should get before I finish assembly? Are there any cheap turnbuckle kits out there?

[Toiffel]

I got my 777 SP1 this friday, spent that night and all saturday building so I can race sunday, and man was all that work well worth it, I love this buggy it is awsome, I ran an MBX5 last year, don't get me wrong, it's a great buggy, but I don't know why I didn't make the switch sooner, right out of the box my 777 handles 100% better than my Mugen

[KanaiDude]

Mika you really only need one pair, saves a little weight, 100oz torque servo will handle it on braking , dial the rear in a little more so can come around turns easier.

[Mika]

I know, thanks KanaiDude, I sold the other pair and split the shipping costs ;-)

[dgrobe2112]

Kyosho.. 1-2-3 at the Nats this year.. those guys are awesome.. if you all can get your hands on a vid of that race.. get it.. cuz that race was worth the entry fee just to watch..

Ryan Cavalieri, Mark Pavidis, Jared Tebo.

Kyosho top 3.. awesome..

The pass that Cav put on Mark on the last lap, was insane.. caught everyone by suprise.. totally unexpected..

[dgrobe2112]

just got back sunday night.. and got everything unpacked.. that was a week of fun, in the sun.. then the next day.. my sunburn got sand blasted off from all the wind and dust.. then hotter than heck in the 100's the next day.. then cloudy and windy the next.. then cool and windy the next..

but what a week.. yours truley.. didnt do as good as hoped.. however.. i was more at awe with everything else.. that i really didnt care..

My mistake was.. i put a new freshly broke in P5 in the car, just only breakin.. and it gave me fits all week during practice.. i didnt really get any good practice time.. cuz the motor was tuned, then out of tune, but, finally on the last practice day.. it opened up and ran great.. qualifying day.. well.. i was on the track with Tebo in my first 2 rounds.. and was more worried bout being in the way of the fast guys.. that i got one descent run.. which wasnt that great.. but after the resort.. my car was great..

being car #2 in my 3rd heat.. i got to go first.. cuz car #1 wasnt there.. so.. i had a great run going in my 3rd heat, only to catch the back of the pack, and have trouble passing, and getting around the slower guys.. or get passed them.. and get hit.. i had my fastest time of the day during that race going.. only to catch the slower guys.. and get bashed around.. and run into.. and that ended up being my slowest..

so, in my 4th qual, i ened up going last.. so i had my pit man.. hold my car until the last second.. before the 1st car made a lap.. then went on with it.. had a little more luck with the lapped guys.. not much more.. but.. i pulled my fastest time.. which was still not what i shoulda got.. however.. i delt with it..

and.. qualified for a lower main.. which was the first main on Sunday.. well.. being the first race on the track.. shoulda went with a different tire.. i use the same tire that gave me my best 2 runs.. which was the panther chameleons.. however.. the next morning.. the track was dusty, and those tires didnt work near as good as the day before.. if i had the right tires.. i am sure i woulda bumped.. car was great.. but.. i didnt drive that great on sunday..

Tons of fun.. had a blast.. Jeremy Kortz.. bumped from the D all the way to the A..

Lotta fast guys.. in alot of lower mains.. sponsored and factory guys all the way down in the D and E mains..

[Motorman007]

Did you know mark p was broke?



joor
David Joor | AvidRC.com response 790 of 790: May 3 12:45 EDT 2005

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mark's car was broke 20 minutes into it. It sounded like a conical
gear was going out or a spur going. There was this little double in
front of the drivers stand and every lap it sounded like he was
bottoming out on it. With 10 minutes to go he backed off the throttle
to save the car which allowed Ryan to get some ground back. Tough
call to say if it would have held up, but I was amazed is was still
together at the 40 minute mark. It was a tough race!

[JamminJay]

Damn, I can't post anything

[dgrobe2112]

sweet ride KD.. that car looks awesome..

[JamminJay]

Back to using f*cking I.E. to post on this damn forum, man either I can't post or I don't get notified by AOL... Always one or the other.....

Ok fellas, need your help here. (well actually my friend does) Ok, he just got a new buggy, and altho it's not a 777, the problem should isnt the brand, and I know how helpful you guys are. He brought the buggy over last night, and I quickly looked it over and checked the obvious things. he said he had the car running and moving around on the ground prior, but since then took the clutch shoes off for w/e reason, I forgot why he said he did that. Anyway, it's a 9.5 pro, so he built it himself. The problem is, it's totally locked up now... as in when the cars not running it will not roll at all, like the brake is fully engaged. He is not as knowledgeable as me about buggies and has never built one before, I told him I would assemble it for him so it was all right and everything, but he opted for that one :rolleyes: I briefly looked it over, and of course first thing I checked was the brake engagement....things are fine there...I dont think it's a diff problem as he said prior to this he had it running and tooled around in the yard. (my thinking is if 1 diff is backwards and one was right, it wouldn't move while running cuz it would fight itself) is this true? Just my theory, I have never placed a diff in backwards to check this. LoL :D So, trying not to insult his intellegence, I asked if he had the clutch shoes on in the right direction. he said yes, then thought about it, and said he knew origionally they were right, but maybe when he took it apart, that he put them on backwards, but that wouldn't cause a problem if the car wasn't running would it? Any other ideas??? I wont know unless I dig into the car to diagnose it, and it was late last night and he went home, and took the car too. So.... I dunno what would cause this???

[Little_Horn]

If one diff is backwards, the car won't move. To check this simply put 2 wheels on the ground and the other 2 in the air (ie. front wheels on the ground and back wheels inthe air). Spin the 2 wheels in the air (ie. back wheels) forward, and check if the 2 wheels on the ground (ie. front wheels) rotate in the same way. If they do, the problem is elsewhere.

[dgrobe2112]

or just hold the wing, with the front wheels touching the ground.. hold the car by the wing.. roll the car on the ground.. if the rear wheels turn backwards.. if you roll the car forward.. then one of the diffs are backwards.. or.. just lift the car off the ground.. turn the center diff.. in a clockwise motion if you were lookin from the front.. turn the center spur gear clockwise.. and you will be able to see which diff is backwards

[KanaiDude]

Welcome back DG! It's hard to not have fun there not matter how you do, glad you had fun though nothing beats some of those big race A-mains sick driving, I get a good amount of those guys at my local tracks I would say at least 5 guys in the top 40 race locally.

I'm pretty happy with my ride, already want to change a few things on it LoL, just paint the front nose that is gray to blue, and maybe change the rear wing to a standard high wing in blue, its amazing there is a car forum just for my rsx, there are over 400 people on there during the day pretty incredible, real cars haha...

[JamminJay]

Well, I called my friend... he checked the diffs while we were on the phone, it's not that. and as I said.. he already had the car on the ground running it, both wheels go same direction... but when not runing its just like it's locked in "parking brake" mode, he's gonna check the clutch out and let me know tomorrow.

[dgrobe2112]

jay.. i think the clutch would be the next thing.. does the car run at an idle.. or does it die when he hits the brakes..

[Mika]

Clutch bell and spur are not too tight neither? Center diff spins freely?

[hyperstang]

Hey guys...

I just purchased the MP777 standard kit and am reading for hours on this thread. I usually post on the Hot Bodies Stadium Truggie forum.

Any tips diff lube for the Kanai. I plan on putting in my RB WS7 motor in it. I think its time to hang up my Kanai 2.

Thanks guys...

[dgrobe2112]

diff setup, i am using right now.. is 4/7/2, i have had 5/7/2 in there as well..

60/40, or 60/35 shock oil is roughly the norm, however, with the standard kit, you may go a little lower, or drill the pistons.. cuz the pistons on the normal kit are only 1.3mm

good luck with the kit, if you have trouble, feel free to ask, lots of help on here...

[Mika]

Like Dgrobe says I have 30/20 shock oil, 60/40 is way too thick for regular shocks/pistons to my opinion. It makes shocks too unresponsive. But it's not 777 nor K3, but standard 7.5 Diff setup the same 5/7/2

[JamminJay]

[QUOTE=dgrobe2112]60/40, or 60/35 shock oil is roughly the norm, however, with the standard kit, you may go a little lower, or drill the pistons.. cuz the pistons on the normal kit are only 1.3mmQUOTE]

DG-
Do Not in anyway, take this as me contradicting you, I just wanted to say... I am running the stock std. kit pistons, with 60/40 and I like how it feels right now... BUT, (and I don't know if this would make much difference???) I am using X-Ray XB8 springs... damn kyoshos are soo expensive. I bought the xb8's on Ebay, brand new, I got the light blue soft, and the dark blue hard ones both pair for $10 shipped. I double checked with Xray before I bought them on Ebay to make sure they were the same length as kyoshos, and Ta-Da, they were, but maybe the rates aren't the same??? :confused:

[dgrobe2112]

dont know how that would be contradicting me.. hahah.. one thing though.. dont know if the Xray rear shock springs are the same length as the kyosho 777 rear springs. and i do know of a few people using the Xray light blue springs on their kyosho's. i havent done it yet.. but when i get new springs, i am thinking of getting some..

[JamminJay]

well both sets of the Xrays are identical in length to the black ones in the std. kit. only major difference is they are a hair bigger in circumfrence, so they are a little loose on the cups, but not enough to cause conflicts.



WoW, I feel intelligent... <identical, circumfrence, conflicts> using all them big intellectual words.... theres another one, man I can't stop! :D

[dgrobe2112]

lmao.. bwahahah..

[JamminJay]

*** I must say, I was misspoken in an earlier post, so I apologize to DG, I am not running 60/40, after looking at my set up sheet last night, I am in fact running the stock pistons, undrilled, with 50/30. :rolleyes:

Well, well, well, I had never bought a pipe to go with my RG, and never did start it. So I have posted it for sale, as last night I bought a new Rex P5, and a hardcoat Jp-2. (someone pinch me, I must be dreaming to have a buggy of this level. Persistence, and 5 months time really pays off) :D

BTW, does anyone use a set-up station? Are they worth the money? I thought about getting the PMB station? any input? Thanx.

[dgrobe2112]

i think the PMB setup station is worth it.. however.. i have noticed they are not that precise.. only think you would need it for is to set the toe out in the front.. thats it.. the rest is allready set.. with the rear toe blocks, and the castor blocks..

I had one.. sold it.. i use a RPM camber guage.. to set my camber.. and as far as toe.. i borrowed the setup station from the guy who bought it from me..

[AreCee]

i think the PMB setup station is worth it.. however.. i have noticed they are not that precise.. only think you would need it for is to set the toe out in the front.. thats it.. the rest is allready set.. with the rear toe blocks, and the castor blocks..

I had one.. sold it.. i use a RPM camber guage.. to set my camber.. and as far as toe.. i borrowed the setup station from the guy who bought it from me..I paid $50 for mine and I don't think it's worth much more. It has bushings in place of bearings at the pivots which tend to stick. As DG said it's useful to set the camber at all four corners, the front toe and steering throw.

[JamminJay]

Yea, they sell on Ebay, for $59 + $10 for shipping. I also have the RPM camber gauge as well, so maybe I would be better off buying a set of tires LoL?

[AreCee]

Make some set up wheels so you have a good flat surface to measure the camber. Regular wheels and tires are too variable for any accurate measurements.

[ExtremeDuty]

as last night I bought a new Rex P5, and a hardcoat Jp-2.

Haha, you are getting addicted now...

I bought a Nova 421B. This time again by mistake. I have this bad habit of putting my bid on e-Bay. Running 777 on an open field always made me hungry for more top end.

Today, my department had a picnic at a local park. Since we usually play some simple outdoor games after lunch, I brought my 777.
Guess what? It was a big hit. I drove a little and let some coworkers test drive.
All coworkers being either electrical or mechanical engineers, they were all excited to see my 777.


While I was driving something funny happened. mid range adjust screw part of carb feel off. I have no idea how that thing unscrewed. Also when I screw it back, I couldn't feel any friction of O-rings. There are two O-rings on the mid range screw. Anyway, it was very lucky that I didn't lose the mid-range screw during roll-over.

Now, I think I need to go to track to hone my skill if there is any... :D

[ExtremeDuty]

Make some set up wheels so you have a good flat surface to measure the camber. Regular wheels and tires are too variable for any accurate measurements.

Yes, I agree. You don't have to buy a dedicated setup system if you can come up with some sort of setup wheel. Standard wheel is not truly straight and it wobbles.

However, I am not denying the benefit of dedicated setup system. I have a Hudy touring setup system, and this is the best investment I have ever made. Setup system aids and simplifies setup process.

[JamminJay]

Matt,
Did you get a pm from me yesterday? I recieved an envelope in the mail.. :D Thanx. Was wondering if you took paypal?

[ExtremeDuty]

I just received Crono RS8 CL engine, aka Nova 421B.
This engine is branded as Crono by Nova. After inspection, I found several things.

Crono RS8 does have 421B's 8-port sleeve. Crank case is the same as P5 not 421B. Cooling head shape is same as 421B but bolt patter is 4 instead of 6, just like P5. Nova's 421B has an O-ring to seal the space between crank case & cooling head, but RS8 lacks O-ring.
Quite interesting mix here...
While both P5 & 421B have regular crank shaft, Crono RS8 has an epoxy filled crank shaft.

It looks like Nova did mix & match for Crono branded engine.

Somehow I thought all expensive engines had 3-needle carb but mine got 2-needle adjustments. Wait! my el-cheapo Hyper 8-port has three needles, which the manual warns not to touch the extra needle... :D


[Edit] I just saw even Nova's different brand engines have different features.

[JamminJay]

So, basically what your saying here is, you got a mutt instead of a pure breed? :D Sorry, had to make a joke outta nothing really. :p





Outta curiousity, where are you getting all these specs? Thanx.

[ExtremeDuty]

So, basically what your saying here is, you got a mutt instead of a pure breed? :D Sorry, had to make a joke outta nothing really. :p

Outta curiousity, where are you getting all these specs? Thanx.

Yeah, sort of true... I searched for RS8 and all European RC magazines do say RS8 is the same as 421B. At least this comforts me though... ;)
Rs8's parts are from different Nova engines and they say power output is the same as 421B.

From Nova's website: www.novarossi.com
From SVM racing's website (Crono buggy manufacturer, Italian company):
www.radiosistemi.it (This website was extremely slow...)

[JamminJay]

Thanx for the link, I wanted to look up my engine. But let me ask someone this, are the specs on the Nova P5, the same as the specs on the Rex P5?

[dgrobe2112]

jay.. yes.. they are the same.. here is a website..

www.nitroreview.com then click on engines.. there is a list of tons of engines there..

[JamminJay]

Thanks DG. yea I went to that site too.
Also...............
Glowplugs:

What are some of the different plugs that will be a decent match for the P5 non turbo? Like any plugs made by OS, McCoy, Fox, etc. thanx.

[KanaiDude]

Most people are using Nova or RB plugs for the P5, #5 is probably the best, I run a 4-6 depending on how hot it is outside, a 4 in the winter a 6 in the summer a 5 somewhere in between. The mccoy 59 plugs are ok if you can find a good deal on them, the filement is not quite as strong as the Nova/RB plugs though. If you can find PDL racing on ebay he usually has good deals on plugs 25 bucks shipped for 5 RB platinum plugs.

I'm shelving my modS72, I like RB's and all, just doesn't do it for me compared to a P5 going back to the grunt motor...

[dgrobe2112]

lol.. kd.. yeah.. the p5 seems to be the best all around i can find.. i currently am running Racers Edge plugs, with no problems at all.. i run the RE#4 plug.. which is a medium, and like KD said.. depending on the weather out.. is what depends on a colder or hotter plug..

[JamminJay]

Hey, thanks guys..... Is there any real difference in plugs other than temp? and turbo or non? I have usually always used OS. or McCoy. I got a couple new OS plugs here, is there any written or unwritten law that says I can't use them with the P5?

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. a novarossi motor, or RB, or any novarossi based engine.. needs to use a long plug, every OS engine uses short plugs, other than the Vspec.. which uses turbo plugs..

if you use an OS plug in your P5, then your engine will not run correctly..

are you wanting to know the difference in turbo and non turbo plugs??

You can get a turbo button for your P5, and run turbo plugs.. i have noticed that turbo engines.. in offroad.. are hard to tune.. very finiky

[JamminJay]

Yea I read somewhere b4 someone suggested not to use a turbo, but I wasn't sure why. Hmmm, ok thanx for clearing that up. I did locate PDL on Ebay, he's got 5,6,7 on hand, with a buy it now, that says immediate payment, and I transfered all my paypal to my bank :( So, I might Emial him and ask if I can mail payment. Thanks so much guys... I am glad I ask dumb questions, rather than assuming I can run my OS plugs. But then again, I'm sure I woulda prolly noticed the plug when my engine gets here. Hope it comes with one at least? I don't have any long plugs.

[KanaiDude]

I'm pretty sure it comes standard with a nova #5, keep PDL in your favorite sellers list, they are a great resource for plugs, motors and different RB/JP parts shims etc...

[JamminJay]

Yes I did save it after I browsed it.... thanks for the info.

[dgrobe2112]

the P6 will come with a nova 6 plug.. standard..

[JamminJay]

I am guessing that was a typo right? You mean a P5? with a Nova 6 plug.

[Motorman007]

the turbo plugs on the os motors run great!! not at all to tune.

but that said i never had novarossi turbo motor only the os motors.

really thinking about trying that B7 with the werks clutch.

anyone seen one run before? other than hear say.


DG when is your next race? INT. in june or what?

[KanaiDude]

Maybe he meant P7 haha, i've got a friend running one now he really likes it, I just have a hard time comming to grips with the new picco, chrono, and ops motors, people seem to like them though, P5 for me found a few on ebay for 260 plus shipping anyone know a better deal? Will probably wait till I can snatch one up at 240-250...

[JamminJay]

I saw the ones on Ebay for $257 - $270 BIN, but I got mine thru ACE hobbies, for $279. I paid a little more, but I wanted someplace to use my paypal account, and get the engine, starterbox, pipe, and gel cell al from one place, instead of 4 different shipping charges. I also picked up a new set of clutch springs for spares, and that clutch spring install tool, someone on here recommended.

[bsodmike]

Ohhh, clutch spring install tool? I'm interested in this :)

What I did was end up tightening the shoes with the pilot nut, as it would be impossible to put the shoes on if I did the nut first...maybe with this tool it is possible?

[JamminJay]

Mike, here ya go.... not sure if they ship to ya tho.
http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=47_84&products_id=6023

[dgrobe2112]

Jay, yes.. i meant P5.. sorry.. typo.. didnt see it till this morning..

Dibbs.. my next race will be at JCG for the invite im thinking..

[bsodmike]

OMG! I so freaking need that! :eek:

I guess the only way to tighten the pilot nut is to poke something thru the exhaust right? I tried it by poking some tubing thru...it sort of works. I guess a zip tie would be better BUT I hear there are things you can screw through the glow hole that'll keep the piston at BDC?

--found it at that same site, crankshaft locking tool, duratrax, $10!

Thanks Jay, stuff will be here in 5 days :)

[AreCee]

OMG! I so freaking need that! :eek:

I guess the only way to tighten the pilot nut is to poke something thru the exhaust right? I tried it by poking some tubing thru...it sort of works. I guess a zip tie would be better BUT I hear there are things you can screw through the glow hole that'll keep the piston at BDC?
You really don't need that tool. We've been installing and removing clutch shoes for many years without it.

First you MUST tighten the clutch nut to secure the flywheel before any thing else. You can buy a cluth wrench that will hold the flywheel in place as you tighten the nut with a 10mm spanner. Or you can use a slip lock pliers and a rag (to prevent marring the flywheel) to hold it while you tighten the nut. As you tighten the nut it presses the flywheel down on the tapered cone creating friction, this holds the flywheel in place. Tighten the nut very tight.

Now you can place the shoes on the flywheel. Place a spring in the shoe, align it up on the post, slide both down the post so the spring is resting on the nut. If you're using Al shoes then place one of the small washers on the post before placing the shoe on the post. Use a bladed screwdriver to push the spring past the edge of the nut and down the side of the nut. Be sure to slide the spring into the channel on the side of the nut. Repeat this twice more. Removal is easier, spread the shoes out and with the tip of a small bladed screwdriver pry and lever up the spring from the channel in the nut to the flat of the nut. Now place the screwdriver under the shoe near the post and lever that up, the shoe should slide right off the post.

I've tried using that clutch tool and it's actually more difficult to use than the method I just explained. I'd be happy to sell you the tool.

[bsodmike]

Thanks Dave - I'll give it a shot and if I don't like it I'll send it back...

[bsodmike]

http://prolineracing.com/proline/accessories/6034-03/6034-03.jpg (http://prolineracing.com/proline/accessories/6034-03/6034-03.html)

Proline 23mm adaptors for Kysoho 777, Mugen Prospec, Ofna Hyper 7 - pretty cool and I thought I'd post it here.

[JamminJay]

Hey guys......Got the new Rex P5, Jp-2 pipe, and starter box today. Man I love the way this buggy looks. I was a little impressed that the P5 came right to life on the box, w/o loosening the plug or anything.

[JamminJay]

Am I limited on the number of posts I can make? my counter has stopped at 1140.. hmmmm O well. I'm gonna keep on posting away. BTW, i'll try to get some good pics for you guys Monday.



Ok, maybe it didn't stop. :D

[ngo8]

i just broke in my P5 and i have tell you guys that this is the easiest motor to break in i ever had turned over the first time unreal and the power is so crazy to the only thing is those kyosho clutch shoes are wearing out fast i might have to get some mugen ones.

[dgrobe2112]

ngo8.. the kyosho shoes that come with the regular kit.. do wear out pretty quick.. i only run mugen shoes now.. they last a long time.. i also heard that sportwerks has some lightened aluminum shoes.. also.. hotbodies has the same exact shoes as the mugen shoes.. just like 5 bux cheaper..

[JamminJay]

Mugen aluminum shoes I am guessing?

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. with a P5, composite shoes only will last.. if you have a smooooooooooth throttle finger.. and even then.. they wont last that long.. haha

[FranktheTank]

Anyone with both a 7.5 and 777....quick question.

Will the 777 body fit on the 7.5? I thought not, since the sideguards on the 777 are narrower and longer, but I bought a body off Ebay that I'm now being told is for the 777.

Thanks :)

[dgrobe2112]

the mp777 is not as wide as the 7.5.. it will work.. but it will be a tight.. tight fit.. i have seen them retrofitted on there.. you may have problems with the side guards possibly rubbing the body.. Also.. the guys who did it.. their paint didnt last.. and the body cracked in spots too.. you may use some shoe goo all over the inside.. after painting it.. to keep from rubbing and breaking..

[JamminJay]

Well, I told ya guys I would have pics on Monday. Pics arent that bad I guess.
http://www.angelfire.com/rings/jamminjay1722/kyosho_inferno_mp777/

[dgrobe2112]

very nice..

[JamminJay]

Thanks. my buddy asked me if it was gonna be a shelf queen. hahahaha

[FranktheTank]

Thanks for the reply, dgrobe2112......time to set Ebay-dude straight! :)

[Radrcdriver]

Here goes a can of worms I have a mbx 5 prospec great buggy but it don't seem to turn as well as the 777 I race with. I have tried everything to turn like a 777 but no luck. Need to know if I should make the switch to a 777 and If so does it handle the ruff stuff like a mugen.Also should I leave it stock or not the 777-S.Any help would be great.Thank's

[ExtremeDuty]

Well, I told ya guys I would have pics on Monday. Pics arent that bad I guess.
http://www.angelfire.com/rings/jamminjay1722/kyosho_inferno_mp777/

Nice ride! I didn't know you got SP1 though...
Now she is sitting pretty on shelf. Only thing left to do is to let her rip!! :D

[JamminJay]

I don't have a sp1 :D

[ExtremeDuty]

I don't have a sp1 :D

Then... What is the box behind of your car in the pictures?
The box says "SP1" in the sticker.

Don't tell me you set this up... ;)

By the way, you have too nice setup. Plz hurry and make her dirty!!!

[JamminJay]

Well the plan was, it was gonna get dirty Saturday, and yesterday. But the adapters for the servos I bought some how dont work. So I odered new ones and they should be here tomorrow.


But, unless your with me when I get it dirty, you'll prolly never see it tooo dirty. I am very meticulous, and keep my cars very clean. :)

[KanaiDude]

Nice car Jay, gonna be a beast on the track...

Rad - do you already have good parts support for your X5, good setups, know the workings of the car, then don't bother... there isn't a ton of difference between the two cars, it's all in your head bro... Now if you just want to head over to the dark side and the National Champions 1-2-3 baby, then by all means pick up a 777 WOOT...

[JamminJay]

Thanx KD...............

Well.... I took it out today, for the first time....those servo horn adapters showed up, so I went out to run it and adjust the servos and everything.....Man, this motor is plenty fast, lots of pep, low end power, and speed.... I think it's considerably faster than my old RZV-o1b???
Anyway, it's so fast, I'm done running for a while.... so fast it spun the rear cvd shaft out. the hobs part is still there, just lost the pin and shaft. I never even saw that sucker come out, and so far I haven't found it. :( At least it was only in my driveway, but still, I got a big driveway. anyway, I will prolly end up finding the shaft, but not the pin... any ideas on a replacement pin? What can I do to avoid this again?

[KanaiDude]

Jay i'm having a hard time visualizing what you lost, you have CVD's or dogbones? If I'm reading right you lost the shaft and pin to a CVD holy cow batman!! Where did you get the CVD's are they genuine kyosho? I have never seen or heard of that, i'm not even sure you can put the pin back in I thought it was tappered or something so it wouldn't fall out.

Well I ordered a helios/spektrum/wheel/speedming bag, and new Rex P5 can we say equipment update! time for some serious selling on ebay this weekend anyone want a 24 foot round above ground pool bought it for 3000 last summer selling for 1500 stupid wife and her ideas she about bankrupt me before we split, marriage fool me once haha won't fool me again...

[JamminJay]

KD, yes I have cvds... I actually just came in, I found the shaft, but not the "joint" part. the part that goes thru the hub carrier, that your hub gos onto was there, so in essence i lost the shaft and that joint thingy to begin with.. but I found the shaft, theres no way i''l find that black joint thing out here. But in actuality, that means both pins came out, and none of the holes seem longated?

[KanaiDude]

Must have been a bad CVD I have never seen a pin come out like that, where did you get the CVD's ebay ben88 or they came with the kit? My holes become elongated after a few months but even after running cvd's hard for six months i've never had one break just enough slop to make me want to replace it. Maybe try and get a replacement from someone if you can that shouldn't happen, good luck...

[JamminJay]

yea I got them on Ebay...... you guys don't put shrink tubing on them or anything? Not sure if that would help?

[dgrobe2112]

WOW.. CVD's?? thats odd.. i thought Kyosho was all universals.. well.. dont know what to tell ya on that one.. maybe put your dogbones in it.. until you get a replacement..

Sounds like you got lots of cool stuff on the way KD.. have fun.. the spek should be just fine.. mine has had 0 probs with it.. except i had a bad battery connection with it.. and it jicked out.. but it was not spek fault..

[AreCee]

That's what I thought, ben88 sells parted out SP1 kits and those are universals because I bought some from him. I didn't know that there were any aftermarket CVD's for the Kyosho, maybe that's why the pin came out because it was made for some other hubcarrier than Kyosho. I even checked the Kyosho parts lists and didn't find any CVDs listed only the universals.

[JamminJay]

yea that's what I mean is the the universal swingshaft-properly named. Whats the difference between a universal, and a cvd?

[KanaiDude]

I might have helped confuse you Jay, a Universal is more of a rotating joint with large tapered pins connecting them, CVD's are more of a rounded cup assembly and generally have a smaller pin that is held in place with an allen wrench.

[JamminJay]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXZ1&P=Z

thats what I am talking about... I have the black end the hub mounts to, and I found the chrome shaft, but am still missing the black square that pivots with the 4 pegs? anyone have an extra one?

[AreCee]

The bad news is that a universal isn't very rebuildable. The pins are press fit and if they come out it usually means that the joint is shot.

[JamminJay]

yea, that is exactly the impression I was under.

[bsodmike]

Got universals all around my buggy and noticed that too. Can't seem to find any decent CVDs (all around) for the 777, any ideas Dave?

[AreCee]

None exist that I'm aware of.

[dgrobe2112]

RadRCdriver.. hey.. my buddy has a MBX5 also.. and his dont turn near as good as my car.. however.. the X5 suits his driving style alot better.. more on edge.. gotta see.. see if you can drive that guys car and judge for yourself.. i assure you wont be disappointed

[ExtremeDuty]

None exist that I'm aware of.

MIP used to make CVD's for MP-7.5, I guess?
Yeah, I didn't find any aftermarket manufacturer for MP777 CVD's.

[Toiffel]

Do you guys know if I can use Mugen Diif gears for the center diff of my 777?

[Toiffel]

nope u can't

[dgrobe2112]

lol.. no you cant.. hahah

[Radrcdriver]

Anybody know much about the spc.2 was told it will be out in about 1 month.Told it just has a longer chassis that's the only difference.

[dgrobe2112]

there is a longer chassis, and an updated steering ackerman. Also, looks like they upgraded the shock towers some as well. Made them like prospec towers. Thicker and milled out.

[JamminJay]

DG, and anyone else for that matter that races 2 vehicles.....
What do you guys use to carry everything in? I am looking for some type of roller that will carry both my 777 & Drake trucks, spare parts and tires, tools, both starter boxes, and fuel.

[dgrobe2112]

the ofna black and white and red bag for 1/8th scale.. thats the best bag you can get.. it carries everything.. i personally dont like having my cars in the bag..

Sportwerks bag is a new bag that is pretty nice..
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=SWK9905

[RCSavage]

A courple of days ago I saw a set up for Mark Pavidas brumpy track MP777. I can't remember where I saw it, If anyone knows where I can find it please help. I would also like a starting point on shock oils. I was told 50 front 40 rear with the white pistons. Does this sorund close?

[ExtremeDuty]

the ofna black and white and red bag for 1/8th scale.. thats the best bag you can get.. it carries everything.. i personally dont like having my cars in the bag..

Sportwerks bag is a new bag that is pretty nice..
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=SWK9905

Wow, that bag in link is awesome. I always liked the idea of having carry back, but I couldn't commit myself to it due to cash crunch... Also knowing that I can buy several spare parts or goodies w/ that money.

So, how do I carry things? Good & old way... everything by hands :D :D
I know it looks very noob. This has been possible since I didn't race.
Someday, I will have to look professional like you guys!

[ExtremeDuty]

A courple of days ago I saw a set up for Mark Pavidas brumpy track MP777. I can't remember where I saw it, If anyone knows where I can find it please help. I would also like a starting point on shock oils. I was told 50 front 40 rear with the white pistons. Does this sorund close?

I use 50/30 for front/rear w/ stock white pistons. I tested mine over very rough construction site and it got my approval. Before I tried 60/40 but it seems too tippy and not smoothing out over bumps.

I think someone here suggested 50/35 as a starting point? I don't remember now.

[ExtremeDuty]

there is a longer chassis, and an updated steering ackerman. Also, looks like they upgraded the shock towers some as well. Made them like prospec towers. Thicker and milled out.

Did you guys see pictures posted on Neo-buggies.net?
There is one picture showing Kyosho's new idea. On steering servo horn's the other end, there is an additional linkage that goes to front brake. Under normal braking two (front/rear) brakes are applied at the same time (of course, you usually set the brake offset). With this "front brake linkage" attached on steering, this linkage somehow reduces front brake effort to give more steering under braking when there is a steering input. I guess overall same idea as having front oneway as used in on-road cars?

This front brake linkage is shown w/ SP2, but it will only be offered as an option.

[ExtremeDuty]

Guys,

Which starter box do you use?

I have an ofna starter box, which they say it is for 1/10th on/off road application. Mine has two 550 motors w/ 12V battery.
I found out that aligning pegs do work for my buggy if they are all moved out to the corners. One problem is that rubber wheel doesn't have enough reach to the flywheel, which can be fixed w/ proper shimming at the motor unit mount.

Do you think two 550 motors w/ 12V battery have enough torque to start up a new .21 engine? (I'm 100% sure that it wouldn't start a new Hyper 8-port... :D )

or How about a handheld 12V starter? I got one. It's quite challenge to use it, but I used to use it a lot 10 years ago.

[JamminJay]

Sounds to me like you have the same box that I use for my xxxNT, that I earlier posted it wouldn't turn over my OS. It is the black box correct? I have since bought this one, http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=10250&FVPROFIL=++
Which started, and brought my P5 right to life with no hesitations. :)

[Little_Horn]

I have a universal Team Magic X5 starter box. I think you guys might know it by the name of Sportworks Cyclone. The only difference is that the TM box is orange and black, and the SW box is purple and black.
This box also has two 550 motors.
If you use a 12V 7amps lead-acid battery, it won't start your engine. But, if you do just as I did, the box is a beast.
I will tell you my "little secret" but first, know that this box started 3 buggy engines (2 RB and 1 Sirio) for the hole afternoon, without giving any signs of slowing down.
Wanna know the secret? Just plug two 12V 7amps lead-acid batteries in series, so it will give you 24 volts total.
Don't worry. The box (motors) can handle the extra voltage quite well.
The only inconveniene is that I use the two batteries externally. But then again, once their put on the table, they wont go anywhere... ;)
This box just keeps spinning, and spinning, and spinning...
Try it on your box. You won't regret it.

[dgrobe2112]

#4203 of 4687 by Mark Pavidis (rcmark) on Fri Jul 23 21:47:21 2004:
777 settup
front
60w oil (70w if hot out)
1.4 piston
blue spring
inside hole in front tower
inside hole for shock on arm
22 caster block
Low A block
std sway bar
ride height front bones just above level
5000 diff oil
steering in middle hole in rack
droop depends on track slightly limited

Center
48 tooth spur
13 clutch bell
3 shoe clutch 1.0 springs
7000

Rear
35 w oil
std rear sway bar
2 deg anti squat
3 deg toe
hubs back
camber link long and in lower hole in tower
2nd to inside hole in tower
inside hole in arm for the shock
blue springs
bones level if bumpy just above level
2000

[dgrobe2112]

I have a universal Team Magic X5 starter box. I think you guys might know it by the name of Sportworks Cyclone. The only difference is that the TM box is orange and black, and the SW box is purple and black.
This box also has two 550 motors.
If you use a 12V 7amps lead-acid battery, it won't start your engine. But, if you do just as I did, the box is a beast.
I will tell you my "little secret" but first, know that this box started 3 buggy engines (2 RB and 1 Sirio) for the hole afternoon, without giving any signs of slowing down.
Wanna know the secret? Just plug two 12V 7amps lead-acid batteries in series, so it will give you 24 volts total.
Don't worry. The box (motors) can handle the extra voltage quite well.
The only inconveniene is that I use the two batteries externally. But then again, once their put on the table, they wont go anywhere... ;)
This box just keeps spinning, and spinning, and spinning...
Try it on your box. You won't regret it.

I use the purple Mugen box, and 2 3300mah battery packs.. worked for 3 weekends, bumping my car, and a buddies car.. before i started noticing any kinda drop in power.. but.. it still worked just fine.. very light.. and easy to tote around.. whats great about it.. i can charge the box with my RX pack charger..

[dgrobe2112]

Did you guys see pictures posted on Neo-buggies.net?
There is one picture showing Kyosho's new idea. On steering servo horn's the other end, there is an additional linkage that goes to front brake. Under normal braking two (front/rear) brakes are applied at the same time (of course, you usually set the brake offset). With this "front brake linkage" attached on steering, this linkage somehow reduces front brake effort to give more steering under braking when there is a steering input. I guess overall same idea as having front oneway as used in on-road cars?

This front brake linkage is shown w/ SP2, but it will only be offered as an option.

We had a big discussion about this on www.sgrid.com and we actually discovered that a guy named Wade Lamarr is the designer of that.. he is good buddies with Regan LeBlanc, US Kyosho Team manager. this is something that Kanai uses on his car, however, they will not come in the car. that will be an option available at a later date..

here is the explanation that i had on the linkage..

#2550 of 2777 by Daniel Grobe (dgrobe) on Fri May 13 15:09:11 2005:

it looks like.. if you have your steering set perfect.. and gotta be
perfect.. that.. with the servo travel.. when the steering link move
forward to front of car.. or back to rear of car.. once it hits a point
in its travel, either direction.. it will pull on the linkage, which..
is attached to the outside of the brake linkage.. the piece that goes
through the brake cam.. know what im saying??

So.. when it pulls on the linkage.. it basically then, goes opposite
of braking.. cuz.. the throttle servo is pulling on the opposite end of
the brake rod.. however.. the steering linkage.. the
pulls the other end.. similar to a teeter totter.. which in turns tries
to release the front brake.. and the front brake only..

I think its a great idea.. however.. it will fight with the throttle
servo.. cuz.. in the linkage.. we have springs behind the brake rod..
but under full brake.. that spring should be fully compressed.. and
then the steering pulls in the opposite direction.. with a fully
compressed spring against it..

http://66.56.90.37:8080/portals/0/linkage.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

Wow, that bag in link is awesome. I always liked the idea of having carry back, but I couldn't commit myself to it due to cash crunch... Also knowing that I can buy several spare parts or goodies w/ that money.

So, how do I carry things? Good & old way... everything by hands :D :D
I know it looks very noob. This has been possible since I didn't race.
Someday, I will have to look professional like you guys!

Extreme.. what i do.. is use some of the grey rubbermaid boxes with lids on them.. i haul 2 of them.. one has my radio, fuel, tires, and other stuff in it.. if i can get pics.. i will take some.. then the other has a box down in the bottom with some parts in it, then my starter box on top of the lower box.. then my car on top of the starter box.. and i slide some stuff inside next to the car, like my extension cord, and 5 way.. and stuff like that..

[dgrobe2112]

srry for all the post.. but for some reason.. i didnt get an email telling me there were replies to this thread.. which i normally do.. but, i got an email today from RCzone.. sayin there was a reply to this thread.. and find out there is like 15 replies.. hahah..

[dgrobe2112]

oh.. and just FYI.. they have a list of things that are changing from the SP1 to the SP2...

new chassis
new radio tray
new rear shock body
new springs
new air filter
new front and rear towers
new rear toe plate, 2*
new universals
new steering linkage

Also, there will be a conversion kit available to upgrade your current car instead of buying a complete new car.

[windellmc]

See http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/specials.asp for details of the upgrad kit. It looks like they are changing the rear shock shafts and not the shock bodies? I cannot understand why they are changing the steering tie-rods and not the ackermann plate? Also the 2 degree rear piece is the anti-squat plate. We have all been running that on the SP1 anyway.

[dgrobe2112]

so.. its a longer rear shaft?? or is it shorter??

[Little_Horn]

I use the purple Mugen box, and 2 3300mah battery packs.. worked for 3 weekends, bumping my car, and a buddies car.. before i started noticing any kinda drop in power.. but.. it still worked just fine.. very light.. and easy to tote around.. whats great about it.. i can charge the box with my RX pack charger..

The packs are great, but they are very expensive compared with the two 12v lead-acid batteries, at least in my country... :(
two lead-acid batteries cost around 25 Euros. Two 3000mAh (yes, I'm telling the price of the 3000 packs, not the 3300 ones...) cost 92 Euros.
So for me, the two lead-acid batteries option is far more useable than the 2 packs. Otherwise, two packs all the way... ;)

[ExtremeDuty]

I have a universal Team Magic X5 starter box. I think you guys might know it by the name of Sportworks Cyclone. The only difference is that the TM box is orange and black, and the SW box is purple and black.
This box also has two 550 motors.
If you use a 12V 7amps lead-acid battery, it won't start your engine. But, if you do just as I did, the box is a beast.
I will tell you my "little secret" but first, know that this box started 3 buggy engines (2 RB and 1 Sirio) for the hole afternoon, without giving any signs of slowing down.
Wanna know the secret? Just plug two 12V 7amps lead-acid batteries in series, so it will give you 24 volts total.
Don't worry. The box (motors) can handle the extra voltage quite well.
The only inconveniene is that I use the two batteries externally. But then again, once their put on the table, they wont go anywhere... ;)
This box just keeps spinning, and spinning, and spinning...
Try it on your box. You won't regret it.


Thanks for your "little secret". Buying another 12V 7 Ah battery is much cheaper than buying another starter box.

Your solution reminds me what one of professor said about electrical engineering... I took two semesters of basic electrical circuit classes. The professor used to say "electrical engineering is learned by smoking stuff..." :D

I will certainly try it. However before I pursue it, I'm gonna try out handheld 12V starter that I have.

[ExtremeDuty]

See http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/specials.asp for details of the upgrad kit. It looks like they are changing the rear shock shafts and not the shock bodies? I cannot understand why they are changing the steering tie-rods and not the ackermann plate? Also the 2 degree rear piece is the anti-squat plate. We have all been running that on the SP1 anyway.


Yes, some of SP2 stuff don't make sense to me either...
Specially I don't care about the new air filter.

[Little_Horn]

Yes, some of SP2 stuff don't make sense to me either...
Specially I don't care about the new air filter.

The new air filter is great.
It has a metal interior. This way, the filter doesn't flex like it used to. Also, there is a new curve (horizontaly shorter). This way, the air filter won't bent the body, like it used too.
Back to the metal piece: Because of this metal piece, the filter foam's interior diameter is bigger, so you must use also the new Kyosho Foams. This air filter (foam) is one stage only but it has a higher density than conventional foams.
The only drawback is that it is a little more expensive (not much) than conventional foams.

[ExtremeDuty]

The new air filter is great.
It has a metal interior. This way, the filter doesn't flex like it used to. Also, there is a new curve (horizontaly shorter). This way, the air filter won't bent the body, like it used too.
Back to the metal piece: Because of this metal piece, the filter foam's interior diameter is bigger, so you must use also the new Kyosho Foams. This air filter (foam) is one stage only but it has a higher density than conventional foams.
The only drawback is that it is a little more expensive (not much) than conventional foams.

There is no doubt that the new air filter is improved over whatever previously available. I like Moter Savor air filter most. It is more expensive than others but I like how they engineered.

I thought you can make air filter doesn't touch the body w/ some adjustments? Anyway, I don't use kit included air filter. I'm using OFNA's covered air filter, which is exactly same as Kyosho's. I just don't like the kyosho's foam, which expands like crazy if not proper air filter oil is used.

[ExtremeDuty]

Are SP1 shock bodies supposed to be scratch resistant or stronger than regular blue anodized ones?

By looking at SP1 shock body pictures, I'm sure they are not hard anodized.


Also, are SP1 aluminum clutch shoes are different from ones in regular kit?
Just couple of questions from curiosity....

[uaerc]

Hi

I have heard that the new SP 2 is going to be out soon..... is this true ? Any news when ? Should I wait for it ?

Cheers
ZiiZo

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi

I have heard that the new SP 2 is going to be out soon..... is this true ? Any news when ? Should I wait for it ?

Cheers
ZiiZo

Hey, I think I know you... :D We used to hang out at V-one-R threads.
Yeah, come to think of it, you had either MP-7.5 Kanai or MP777.

I got tired of bottom scratching nitro touring cars and moved to 1/8 buggy, MP777. Now my depression is gone and I have better relationship w/ my wife & son. LOL ;)
SP2 news is all over the place. Yes, it is true.
Check out Kyosho's web site and other RC web sites.

[ExtremeDuty]

Are SP1 shock bodies supposed to be scratch resistant or stronger than regular blue anodized ones?

By looking at SP1 shock body pictures, I'm sure they are not hard anodized.


Also, are SP1 aluminum clutch shoes are different from ones in regular kit?
Just couple of questions from curiosity....

No one has answered my questions yet....
Probably you are thinking that my curiosity's gonna kill me, right? :)

[uaerc]

Hi Extreme........ yeah

We were talking b4...how you been. Good to see you in the buggy forum. ~
I have moved to RRR and Fwo5RR noww..This is the same buggy since last year the K3.. Which I feel is better than the 777 for our conditions here. Parts wise also its better ! lol

waiting for the 777SP2,, here what i found on neobuggy.

In a first for Kyosho; there will be a conversion set so you will be able to upgrade your SP1 to the new SP2.
Contents:
- 1 Main chassis
- 1 Radio Plate
- 2 Rear 66mm shock shafts
- 4 New Shock Springs
- Air Cleaner
- 1 Front Shock stay (5mm)
- 1 Rear Shock stay (5mm)
- SP Rear Sus. Plate (2 Degree)
- 2 Universal centre shafts
- 2 Steering Tie Rod
- 1 Steering Rod

I dont think......but I will ask anyways and see if my prayers are answered! :D would I be able to convert the K3 straight to the Sp2 with this kit along with some other parts !!! and save the price of a new kit ? ?

All the experts.... time to think and see if this is possible since there is shock towers - radio plate etc just might need the arms ? or so ?? what say

ZiiZO

[FranktheTank]

Can any of you guys confirm that the SP1 comes with 63mm shock shafts out back, and what length are the bodies? Trying to get a little more travel from the rear of my K2, so if Kyosho is just putting 66mm shafts inside these bodies for the SP2, I may just do that instead :)

Thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

by putting longer shock shafts in the car, you get more down travel, however, your uptravel is limited..

[FranktheTank]

Thanks, DG....I was working from the information off Tower's site, which ain't much :p

I think I got it straight now....the K3 had 2mm longer bodies and shafts in the rear (57mm and 63mm, respectively). Not sure what the difference is between the K3 and SP1, as the part number for the rear shock set is different and Tower lists the shafts as being 63mm....bodies are longer maybe??

Anyhow, it looks like I'll most likely be going the K3-route...ordered the shafts, gotta find the bodies now :)

[dgrobe2112]

frank.. the mp777 shock bodies in the rear are longer..

[FranktheTank]

Thanks again, DG :)

[dgrobe2112]

anytime..

[invsible]

hey everyone im selling my rc stuff no more time to race it sucks but here is the link so if you know any body looking for a k3 this is a good one
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=197593

[ExtremeDuty]

I dont think......but I will ask anyways and see if my prayers are answered! :D would I be able to convert the K3 straight to the Sp2 with this kit along with some other parts !!! and save the price of a new kit ? ?

All the experts.... time to think and see if this is possible since there is shock towers - radio plate etc just might need the arms ? or so ?? what say

ZiiZO


I think compatibility between MP777 & MP-7.5 (including Kanai) have been discussed earlier. You may want to do a search on this subject.

I heard there are some differences here and there.
Come on, man, just buy a new SP2 kit when it comes out.

[ExtremeDuty]

Yeah, sort of true... I searched for RS8 and all European RC magazines do say RS8 is the same as 421B. At least this comforts me though... ;)
Rs8's parts are from different Nova engines and they say power output is the same as 421B.

From Nova's website: www.novarossi.com
From SVM racing's website (Crono buggy manufacturer, Italian company):
www.radiosistemi.it (This website was extremely slow...)


Ok, I did look into engine differences more.
For 421B variant engines, Novarossi & Top designs are the same w/ some minor ribbing & machining differences. Rex engine is difference from Novarossi & Top, and it is the same design for Crono's RS8 engine.

My wife got me another 421B engine since she didn't know that I got one secretly... ;) If I tell her that I have two same engines, she will kill me.
One for my buggy and another for static display on shelf...

[hyperstang]

I just go in my MP777 and am waiting on some King Headz parts to come in. I was wondering, where, other than Towers, can I find the adjustable tie rod set from the MP777 SP1 kit. the heavy duty gold ones?

Thanks

Anyone know when the SP2 will be making its debut??

[ExtremeDuty]

I just go in my MP777 and am waiting on some King Headz parts to come in. I was wondering, where, other than Towers, can I find the adjustable tie rod set from the MP777 SP1 kit. the heavy duty gold ones?

Thanks

Anyone know when the SP2 will be making its debut??

The best & cheap place you can get them is eBay. Do a seach w/ "MP777".
There are lots of optional gold tied rods & turn buckles.

I couldn't wait till I win one at a decent price, so I got Lunsford set from Tower.

[hyperstang]

thanks extreme...I completely forgot that other companies can make these tie rod sets

thanks again.

[dgrobe2112]

hyperstang.. you can also get tie rod ends from the hyper7 to work also.. my personal opinion is the gold ones are a little pricey..

UAERC.. i think there is a possibility of converting your K3 to the SP1, not sure on the chassis though.. since they went with the longer chassis.. dont know if that is the same as the K3 chassis.. or shorter.. or longer than the K3 chassis.. you gotta get the complete front end, and rear arms for the MP777 to convert.. oh.. also.. the radio post and stuff like that are in a different location.. the radio tray is lower in the car as well..

[youthmanrcer]

Hey everyone, the last time I was on here I told you I was going to go with an OS RG and JP2, well, when I went to the Hobby Shop I came out with an RB S5 and a JP2. I am getting close to the end of breaking it in and I am wondering what kind of engine temps are "normal" for this engine to be running in 80-90 degree CA heat? I know there is no specific answer due to weather factors, but a general heat range would be helpful.

[dgrobe2112]

youthman.. the S5 is a good motor, you will be happy with that engine.. and the JP2 pipe seems to be the new hot thing.. so.. with any engine, with the exception of the RG.. you should see temps around 220-240, if you get much higher than 240.. dont worry.. depending on the power.. and the weather.. but if your engine gets over 260.. then you may want to consider fattening it up some.. now.. one rule.. if after a 5 minute heat.. you come off the track at 240.. dont worry.. i have done this test before.. run my engine.. and when i start to think its bout time to run out.. look at the temps.. my temp on my engine at fuel runout (leanest time of the run) are about 250-255, when the engine runs at 240 after the 5 minute run.. normally my engine has been coming off the track after the 5 minute heat at around 220-230 range.. after an extended main.. the temps will get up to 230-240 after the main..

And all these temps are in 90+ dry ass texas heat.. hahah

[youthmanrcer]

youthman.. the S5 is a good motor, you will be happy with that engine.. and the JP2 pipe seems to be the new hot thing.. so.. with any engine, with the exception of the RG.. you should see temps around 220-240, if you get much higher than 240.. dont worry.. depending on the power.. and the weather.. but if your engine gets over 260.. then you may want to consider fattening it up some.. now.. one rule.. if after a 5 minute heat.. you come off the track at 240.. dont worry.. i have done this test before.. run my engine.. and when i start to think its bout time to run out.. look at the temps.. my temp on my engine at fuel runout (leanest time of the run) are about 250-255, when the engine runs at 240 after the 5 minute run.. normally my engine has been coming off the track after the 5 minute heat at around 220-230 range.. after an extended main.. the temps will get up to 230-240 after the main..

And all these temps are in 90+ dry ass texas heat.. hahah

Thanks DG for the info, now I have a good idea what range to be in and that helps a lot.

[Mika]

Guys, I've been running original MP7.5 w/ upgrades so far and now I've been thinking of getting 777SP2. However, SP1 is now sold at a reasonable price, so what's your opinion - should I get the SP1 now or wait for SP2 ? (I know there's gonna be an upgrade kit available to make SP1-->Sp2) It's not that I'm dissatisfied w/ MP75 but looking for especially better jumping capabilities. I'm running RB C5 engine (or optionally WS7II as I got both).
Thanks,
Mika

[dgrobe2112]

Mika.. the MP777 has gone through different stages.. some like it.. some dont.. personally.. i like it alot more than my 7.5, took a while to get used to it.. however.. now that i got the car setup how i like it.. its a great car.. my 7.5 jumped fine.. my 777 has more response in the air than my 7.5..

I think what they have done is with the SP2 gone back to the longer mp7.5 chassis.. what i mean by that.. is moved the engine and center diff and all that back to the original location..

If you get the SP1, the SP2 conversion will be o ut..

however.. the only thing i am gonna convert on my 777 is to the SP2 longer chassis.. and center shafts.. other than that.. its about the same.. and the longer rear shock shafts.. for more down travel.. but other than that.. i dont need the new towers.. or anything like that..

these parts will be on ebay very soon..

[ExtremeDuty]

Went to the track where JamminJay races...Dirt Burner R/C.
Luckily there was no body to watch me hitting boards all the time. :(

First, I have been 99% all time basher. I've been to touring car temporary tracks a couple of times. Every time I run on track, I realize it's so hard to tell the distance away from me.

Second, the track looked really small to me for running 1/8th buggies.
Even for 1/10th electric off-road cars.
This is probably I suck so much, but but but....
One time I did really good at touring car track. It was when I was still in college. A local Hobby USA store setup a quite good temporary track w/ enough personal/breathing space. There was less bumping and races went more smoother. Every time I see small crowded local tracks, I'm reminded how big those tracks that host national events.

The kit stock tires didn't do a good job. Track was made of wetted compacted dark brown soil (I don't know what it's called... just like garden top soil). Funny thing I noticed was fuel economy was really bad. While I bash, one tank of fuel seemed to last forever but at track I got feeling of haveing much less run time.

On 2nd tank, I hit hard concrete wall and broke front left tie-rod ball ends. Also wheel is slightly bent out of shape. I had to leave...
Well I came back very depressed and I want a more forgiving bigger track!

[ExtremeDuty]

Went to the track where JamminJay races...Dirt Burner R/C.
Luckily there was no body to watch me hitting boards all the time. :(

First, I have been 99% all time basher. I've been to touring car temporary tracks a couple of times. Every time I run on track, I realize it's so hard to tell the distance away from me.

Second, the track looked really small to me for running 1/8th buggies.
Even for 1/10th electric off-road cars.
This is probably I suck so much, but but but....
One time I did really good at touring car track. It was when I was still in college. A local Hobby USA store setup a quite good temporary track w/ enough personal/breathing space. There was less bumping and races went more smoother. Every time I see small crowded local tracks, I'm reminded how big those tracks that host national events.

The kit stock tires didn't do a good job. Track was made of wetted compacted dark brown soil (I don't know what it's called... just like garden top soil). Funny thing I noticed was fuel economy was really bad. While I bash, one tank of fuel seemed to last forever but at track I got feeling of haveing much less run time.

On 2nd tank, I hit hard concrete wall and broke front left tie-rod ball ends. Also wheel is slightly bent out of shape. I had to leave...
Well I came back very depressed and I want a more forgiving bigger track!

[AreCee]

Went to the track where JamminJay races...Dirt Burner R/C.
Luckily there was no body to watch me hitting boards all the time. :(

:) Not as easy as it seems when you're on the track. Take your time and practice, find out what are the good tires for the track and use them, practice more. Check out some of the set-ups and practice more. ;) Eventually you'll get the hang of it.

My home track is a 85'x40' indoor clay track with 18 - 20 second lap times so do you want to talk about small. We have doubles, triples, quads, tables and elevation changes all in that small footprint. :D

[dgrobe2112]

Extreme.. sorry bout your luck.. however.. on small tight tracks like that.. you gotta be slow.. cant go full wood.. normally wont ever even get up to top speed.. sometimes in indoor tracks.. the engines will run different.. cuz of the different atmosphere inside.. i can get my P5 to run 8 minutes.. at my local club track.. however.. when i race indoors.. cant seem to get it to last over 7.. and.. at an outdoor track about 45 minutes away.. motor wont run 7 minutes..

Also.. during race conditions.. you wont get as much run time as you do bashing.. bashing.. your on the top needle most of the time.. which is the fastest.. and the most optimum setting.. when racing.. your off.. and on.. low.. high.. low needle tends to be a little more on the rich side.. so.. more fuel consumption.. similar to driving on the highway.. and city.. get better fuel milage on the highway.. than in the stop and go traffic of the city..

I tell ya.. the stock tires from the kit.. only seem to work on grassy.. or on very wet.. loamy conditions.. other than that.. they are bash tires.. i got rid of my stock ones..

Tires make a huge difference.. indoor tracks tend to lean more toward the small pin tires.. like treadz cubics.. also.. sometimes you will have too much traction.. in the car.. and you could go to a tire that dont have as much traction.. for indoor use.. like the treadz jollie.. just some ideas..

Practice.. practice.. practice.. small tight tracks.. will make you a much better driver..

[ExtremeDuty]

Went to the track where JamminJay races...Dirt Burner R/C.
Luckily there was no body to watch me hitting boards all the time. :(

First, I have been 99% all time basher. I've been to touring car temporary tracks a couple of times. Every time I run on track, I realize it's so hard to tell the distance away from me.

Second, the track looked really small to me for running 1/8th buggies.
Even for 1/10th electric off-road cars.
This is probably I suck so much, but but but....
One time I did really good at touring car track. It was when I was still in college. A local Hobby USA store setup a quite good temporary track w/ enough personal/breathing space. There was less bumping and races went more smoother. Every time I see small crowded local tracks, I'm reminded how big those tracks that host national events.

The kit stock tires didn't do a good job. Track was made of wetted compacted dark brown soil (I don't know what it's called... just like garden top soil). Funny thing I noticed was fuel economy was really bad. While I bash, one tank of fuel seemed to last forever but at track I got feeling of haveing much less run time.

On 2nd tank, I hit hard concrete wall and broke front left tie-rod ball ends. Also wheel is slightly bent out of shape. I had to leave...
Well I came back very depressed and I want a more forgiving bigger track!

[Little_Horn]

Extreme.. sorry bout your luck.. however.. on small tight tracks like that.. you gotta be slow.. cant go full wood.. normally wont ever even get up to top speed.. sometimes in indoor tracks.. the engines will run different.. cuz of the different atmosphere inside.. i can get my P5 to run 8 minutes.. at my local club track.. however.. when i race indoors.. cant seem to get it to last over 7.. and.. at an outdoor track about 45 minutes away.. motor wont run 7 minutes..

Also.. during race conditions.. you wont get as much run time as you do bashing.. bashing.. your on the top needle most of the time.. which is the fastest.. and the most optimum setting.. when racing.. your off.. and on.. low.. high.. low needle tends to be a little more on the rich side.. so.. more fuel consumption.. similar to driving on the highway.. and city.. get better fuel milage on the highway.. than in the stop and go traffic of the city..

I tell ya.. the stock tires from the kit.. only seem to work on grassy.. or on very wet.. loamy conditions.. other than that.. they are bash tires.. i got rid of my stock ones..

Tires make a huge difference.. indoor tracks tend to lean more toward the small pin tires.. like treadz cubics.. also.. sometimes you will have too much traction.. in the car.. and you could go to a tire that dont have as much traction.. for indoor use.. like the treadz jollie.. just some ideas..

Practice.. practice.. practice.. small tight tracks.. will make you a much better driver..

Hello.

DG, I was reading your post and realized that those treadz tires are known here in Europe as Best. They are made by GRP (Gandini Racing Production).
Cubic's are for rain. Their thread is so small that they won't last long. The Jolly are the ones we use to race. They are made from a new compund that makes them very similar to pro-line's crime fighters.
The new Best tires come in a new wheel, that resembles more or less with the kyosho ones, except they are three "spokes" instead of 5.
Even with this new wheel, we detected 2 different compounds in the same hardeness we use (the softer one: A)
If the tires are the ones with the ("breathing") holes, you have the previous, harder compound. But if the holes are in the wheels, then you have the new, softer compound.
Jolly and crime fighter work really well here in Europe.
For rainny wheather, the cross tire (from Best) works really well. Some ppl say it's the best rain tire ever.
If your using a tire (ie. jolly) and it has lots of traction, and you are suffering from side-rolling, cut the outer thread from the tire.
Last time I raced, I used jolly, and the track had a section in tarmac.
I cutted the outer thread, and the tires worked really well.
I tell you. This new compound is great.
Even crime fighters didn't work as good as jolly.
Gandini is really making good progress.
Besides, it's allways good to have an alternative to crime fighters, because they are constantly sold out (at least in Europe).

[JamminJay]

Extreme....

Ahhhhhh, don't like my local track eh? hahaha. It is indoor clay, and they said its approx. 100'x80'. DG is right tho... you really can't and wont top out the buggy. I haven't seen the new layout there, as they change it every few weeks.. but I am all too well familiar with that concrete wall too. Once in my drake, someone spiked me and I flew off the end of the back stretch right into that wall full throttle. None the less..... failsafes have since been applied to my vehicles.
As for tire choices.... Panther switches, or custom cut Losi rear pink Taper pins are the key. Now that summertime is here, there are quite a few tracks around us now. Riders in Taylor, onroad, if you still have your touring cars. I race my drake there with a couple other guys with stadium trucks, set up for onroad. also No Limits races in Taylor on Saturday. it's an offroad outdoot track Here (http://www.rcpimp.com/rc/messages.pimp?thread=6439)

I just checked the site.... did you run the new layout at dirtburners, with the crossover? Heres pics of that Here (http://www.rcpimp.com/rc/messages.pimp?thread=6596)

[dgrobe2112]

extreme must have messed up his computer.. hahah.. 3 post.. exactly the same.. hahah

[ExtremeDuty]

extreme must have messed up his computer.. hahah.. 3 post.. exactly the same.. hahah

Yes, exactly my computer wasn't responding... so I kept hit "enter" and waited a couple of minutes and gave up.

Now I see there are the same three posts.
Sorry about that.

[ExtremeDuty]

Extreme....

Ahhhhhh, don't like my local track eh? hahaha. It is indoor clay, and they said its approx. 100'x80'. DG is right tho... you really can't and wont top out the buggy. I haven't seen the new layout there, as they change it every few weeks.. but I am all too well familiar with that concrete wall too. Once in my drake, someone spiked me and I flew off the end of the back stretch right into that wall full throttle. None the less..... failsafes have since been applied to my vehicles.
As for tire choices.... Panther switches, or custom cut Losi rear pink Taper pins are the key. Now that summertime is here, there are quite a few tracks around us now. Riders in Taylor, onroad, if you still have your touring cars. I race my drake there with a couple other guys with stadium trucks, set up for onroad. also No Limits races in Taylor on Saturday. it's an offroad outdoot track Here (http://www.rcpimp.com/rc/messages.pimp?thread=6439)

I just checked the site.... did you run the new layout at dirtburners, with the crossover? Heres pics of that Here (http://www.rcpimp.com/rc/messages.pimp?thread=6596)

Yes, I ran on the new track layout. Please tell them to expand their shop to accomodate NooB like me. hahaha.....

[AreCee]

Yes, Switch in compound "C" is the ticket for the clay at our local track. We used to use the cut down Losi Tapers but the Switch works as good if not better and less hassle.

[JamminJay]

LESS HASSLE















AMEN!
I wont even cut my own... I buy the stuff, and my buddy Bad Boy Bill cuts them down and mounts them for me..... But I have a brand new set of switches I mounted, then I cut the very last row of treads on the inside and outside edge.

[AreCee]

Yeah, if you don't cut them off they'll come off on their own but cause you to traction roll.

[ExtremeDuty]

As I mentioned in previous post, I was depressed coming back from the track.
So, today I took my son and went out to BASH~~~~~ :D :D :D
Nothing beats bashing 1/8th buggy! My previous monster trucks sucked for bashing since they rolled over so much.

We walked about 1 minute to get to the bash place, a house construction site near my house. Due to yesterday's thunderstorm, there were a couple of water spots. I ripped everything w/ the first tank. Ha~ so refreshing!

On the second tank, my 777 went under the water about its waist line. I drove it out but soon engine flamed out. I guessed it ingested some water.
Since the engine is Hyper 8-port (Thing to go away...), I didn't care much and started the engine again. I felt some resistance while pulling the starter. Once it fired again, it was running really crapy. It didn't have any punch and took a long time to clear up its throat. I had to run about 4 minutes really hard to burn all the water inside the engine. After burning all the water, I put some after run oil to prevent rusting.

Car going under water... today was my second time. First happened about 10 years ago w/ my old Kyosho Inferno 10.

I guess I'm developing a pattern here. Get depressed at track and get it over w/ Bash~~~

Anyway, my son & I had fun.

[jmangler1]

Hey guys,

Thinking of purchaseing a 777 or a 777 SP-1. Whats the difference in upgrades between the 2 machines? I want to upgrade it when I get it, would I be better off getting the regular 777 and upgrading everything with Fioroni parts? Is their a big difference(stregnth and weight) if any between King Headz parts and Fioroni?

[JamminJay]

in my honest opinion they don't really need to be upgraded.... if you got the regular kit... and added turnbuckles.... maybe chassis braces. Thats about all "you need"

[Mika]

Extreme, once you get accustomed driving on track nothing beats it! Jumping over big jumps is the best thing in the world after .. well, you name it.

[Motorman007]

4 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-9.jpg) 5 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-10.jpg) 6 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-11.jpg) 7 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-12.jpg)

2 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-6.jpg) 2 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-7.jpg) 3 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-8.jpg) http://www.airtrix.com/logoDesign/bubba_stewart.html

Pimp N is Hard Work.

[JamminJay]

Well guys, this isn't about my buggy, but many of you know that I also race a Losi Drake truck. I just wanted to brag a little about my performance yesterday at the track. I have never done this well before. I won all 3 of my heats, so that made me top qualifier. On top of that, I got 2nd in the Amain, only cuz, I made a couple mistakes, but I was on "que" all day long. at on one of my mistakes I tried to go low to protect my line, and caught the boards and popped a ball cup...luckily the marshall was nice enuff to fix it, and got me back running, w/o my truck even stalling, and I only lost one spot. I was gaining ground on the leader at a decent pace...but ran out of time. He finished in 15.00.03, and I finished in 15.01.21.

[KanaiDude]

Good Job Jay, nothing like finishing a race within 1 second of someone, it's all a toss up at that point, I do feel your pain though with it being so close i've been there to many times to count. I came in 3rd as usual this weekend, not running for over a month I was pretty pleased, but again I was leading for about 15 mins of the 30min and had put a half lap on 2nd place, oh well. My downfall came with my pitman, as I was leading at the 24 minute mark making my last stop, one of my friends jumps in deciding they can pit me faster with 2 which is usually true, well dumb dumb kind of shoves the fuel bottle in and squeezes to fast, lets me clear out for maybe half a second and drops me, go about 20 feet and I stall, NOOOOOOOO, he's like I just wanted you to win haha... I guess my new P5 was a touch rich but it still shouldnt have happened, it ran fine all day long.

[JamminJay]

:eek: OH Sh*t! that had to suck......your running a JP-2 right? My JP gets extremely hot... like even when I go to shut down, my stinger literally burns me, altho my engine temps just fine???? None of my previous buggies or anyone I have shutdown at the track have been this hott.???

Thanx for the props. :)

[jmangler1]

Hey guys, I'm haveing trouble locating a 777 can someone post a link or tell me where i can buy one for a good price? Has anyone here tried the ttr s3?


Thanks

[JamminJay]

Did you try ultimatehobbies.com they sell the regular kit for $320, free shipping.

[jmangler1]

Cool thanks JamminJay! I will check them out! How is the regular kit compared to the SP-1. Would I be better off getting a regular kit and upgrading with kingheadz or fioroni? By the way do you still have that MGT you bought from me a while ago?

[jmangler1]

I just checked and the regualr 777 was $419. Is that right?

[JamminJay]

I haven't checked their website in a while, but I am pretty sure if you call them, it will be $320. No, I haven't had the MGT in a while. I sold it and bought the 777 new. It was hard, that was an awesome truck, but I wanted to get back into the 8th scale.

[jmangler1]

Is their any difference is the SP-1 and regular 777 ither than the shock towers and supension carriers being different?

[JamminJay]

*MP777 SP1*
TCD Front Gear Set (IFW118)
Lightweight 46T Steel Spur (IFW310)
Front and Rear Center Universals (IFW307,308)
Ventilated Steel Brake Disks (IFW122)
Hardened Upper Camber Rods F&R (IFW123,124)
Hardened Steering Rods (IFW150)
20° and 22° Hub Carriers (IFW304,305)
Special Engine Mount (IFW102)
Yellow Wheels and Wing

*MP777*
Front Planetary Dif
Standard Steel 46T Spur
Center Dogbone Shafts F&R
Aluminum Brake Disks
Threaded Metal Rods F&R
Threaded Metal Rods
20 Front Hub Carriers
Standard Alloy Engine Mount
White Wheels and Wing

[jmangler1]

TCD Front Gear Set (IFW118) Front Planetary Dif

What is the differnce in these 2 gear sets? I dont know what TCD is and whats is a planetary diff? Sorry for the dumb question!

Thanks! Good to see a forum like this where you get responses right away!!!!!

[JamminJay]

I think it stands for traction control differential... it's the same concept as on the hyper7 series. I believe it helps traction on loose areas. I don't run it due to the track I run on.

[jmangler1]

Thanks bro!

[Key]

Just wondering if anyone knows what's the price tag on a special 1 at ultimatehobbies if the standard costs 320?

[AreCee]

Call and they will tell you. Why do you want us to guess the price?