Inferno MP777 [Archive] - Page 6

windellmc

06-14-2005, 10:59 AM

I will complete the list of upgrades from 777 to 777-SP1:

>*MP777 SP1*
>TCD Front Gear Set (IFW118) <-- We change this to standard anyway
>Lightweight 46T Steel Spur (IFW310)
>Front and Rear Center Universals (IFW307,308) <-- I'm not sure these are needed>Ventilated Steel Brake Disks (IFW122) <-- Replace with Fioroni or Craddock
>Hardened Upper Camber Rods F&R (IFW123,124)
>Hardened Steering Rods (IFW150)
>20° and 22° Hub Carriers (IFW304,305)
>Special Engine Mount (IFW102)
>Yellow Wheels and Wing
Rear universals
Special antenna mount
Aluminum radio tray and wing posts
Hard anodized (and supposedly stronger Al) chassis
Shock towers, anti-squat plate, front plate, servo saver top plate, steering rack, and radio tray are all made of stronger aluminum. The shock towers are the biggest deal here but the anti-squat plate will last a lot longer too.
Teflon shock pistons (maybe more important than the good bodies)
Blue shock springs (may be the same spring rate as the black springs)
Teflon coated (much better) shock bodies

>*MP777*
>Front Planetary Dif
>Standard Steel 46T Spur
>Center Dogbone Shafts F&R
>Aluminum Brake Disks
>Threaded Metal Rods F&R
>Threaded Metal Rods
>20 Front Hub Carriers <-- I thought these were 22?>Standard Alloy Engine Mount
>White Wheels and Wing <-- Also comes with Kyosho round spike tires and foams
rear dogbones
plastic antenna mount
plastic radio tray and wing posts
blue aluminum shock bodies
black plastic pistons (1.3mm holes)
black shock springs

SP1 kits cost around $500-550 now. If you are a beginner the standard kit might be fine. If you plan on replacing everything with King or Fioroni parts the standard kit might be better but keep in mind you can ebay the new SP1 parts to help pay for your aftermarket parts. The SP2 upgrade kit is coming very soon and will include new shock towers, anti-squat plate, chassis, center universals, steering rack, air filter, springs, radio tray, rear shock shafts, and steering tie-rods. You could buy a standard kit now and buy the upgrade kit in a month and have almost a full SP2 for the price of an SP1. The shock bodies and pistons would be the key thing you are missing. You could also wait two months for the SP2 to be released.

dgrobe2112

06-14-2005, 11:30 AM

Matt, you are correct.. the standard comes with 22's in front.. there is pros and cons for everything.. i bought the standard.. cuz when i got my car.. the SP1 was alot higher in price.. and i was gonna upgrade anyway.. so i got the standard..

JamminJay

06-14-2005, 11:33 AM

yea it is the 22's... I just copied it right from Tower.... maybe I made a mistake??????

windellmc

06-14-2005, 01:48 PM

ExtremeDuty

06-14-2005, 09:17 PM

DGrobe - Did your kit come with soft or hard compound tires? I was trying to figure out from the online manual for the standard kit. They used to include hard compound tires in the 7.5 standard kits with no foam. Kyosho's soft compound tire is decent on damp tracks whereas the hard compound is not very useful.

I don't know if stock kit tires are soft compound but I felt they worked fine on loose dirt w/ hard & dried clay surface. Strip-type foam came w/ tires, which required use of rubber or contact cement to make them round.

ExtremeDuty

06-14-2005, 09:22 PM

Even before I got my 777, I've heard 1/8th buggies are tanks.
So far I broke rear wing (still 99% functional) and front tie-rod ballends.
All other parts seem pretty "Tank" to me.

What spare parts should I buy for emergency?
For touring cars, I used to buy suspension part; axle carrier, suspension arms, & shock tower.

Thanks,

Matt.

ExtremeDuty

06-14-2005, 09:25 PM

I've been checking Tower's Kyosho product listings.
As days pass, more & more parts status changed to "discontinued" since Kyosho America formed. I wonder who's going to be sellers for Kyosho.

I know eBay has lots of 777 parts but I want to have an option for purchasing.
Do you know any good on-line Kyosho seller?

ExtremeDuty

06-14-2005, 09:29 PM

4 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-9.jpg) 5 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-10.jpg) 6 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-11.jpg) 7 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-12.jpg)

2 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-6.jpg) 2 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-7.jpg) 3 (http://www.members.cox.net/ddibble/Bodz/Untitled-8.jpg) http://www.airtrix.com/logoDesign/bubba_stewart.html

Pimp N is Hard Work.

Good job. A horde of vehicle bodies w/ the same scheme....
Are they related? :D j/k

ExtremeDuty

06-14-2005, 09:31 PM

:eek: OH Sh*t! that had to suck......your running a JP-2 right? My JP gets extremely hot... like even when I go to shut down, my stinger literally burns me, altho my engine temps just fine???? None of my previous buggies or anyone I have shutdown at the track have been this hott.???

Thanx for the props. :)

I found mine does the same. Engine isn't really hot to touch but exhaust is way too hot to touch.
Probably exhaust pipe is almost fully enclosed while engine's cooling head is partially exposed?

ExtremeDuty

06-14-2005, 09:32 PM

Yes, Switch in compound "C" is the ticket for the clay at our local track. We used to use the cut down Losi Tapers but the Switch works as good if not better and less hassle.

Thanks for the tip. Looks like that's the golden tire.

Panther Switch "Clay" compound.

I assume Pro-line's new indoor tire does the same? Tread patterns are almost identical to Switch's.

ExtremeDuty

06-14-2005, 09:40 PM

Extreme, once you get accustomed driving on track nothing beats it! Jumping over big jumps is the best thing in the world after .. well, you name it.

Lots of guys encouraged me... :) Thank you!
I plan to go back w/ vengence!!!

Before I realized my buggy had some setup flaws (Yes it's always easier to blame setup than my drive skill :D )

1. Brake wasn't setup properly. I biased front/rear braking for better steering control under braking. Also due to improper brake linkage setup, there wasn't enough brake to stop the car. Brake servo was too weak. I put a Hitec 525BB. I know, I know. I shouldn't have but wanted to try. This 525BB servo has some history. This is the exactly same servo that was used 10 years ago on my first nitro car, Kyosho Inferno 10. For 10 years, this servo was on 6 different vehicles and provided me good service. At that time, getting a Turbo Inferno was my dream but it was way out of my reach. I will probably put a Hitec 625 MG/BB I have.

2. Tire: I will get Panther Switch or Pro-line Indoor tire.

3. I'm going to have an eye exam soon.... :D I have ask to eye doctor that if my eyes are capable of telling the different distances. Wait! I drive 1:1 scale cars just fine.

Mika

06-15-2005, 04:21 AM

JamminJay

06-15-2005, 04:31 AM

I assume Pro-line's new indoor tire does the same? Tread patterns are almost identical to Switch's.

I have seen this tire, but haven't seen it in action, or tried it at DB. The switches are good, but seriously the cut Losi's are the best.
Also, Kyosho America should be coming around soon to get parts direct. I believe you can, if you call them.

Sometime, we'll have to plan a sunday to go up to DB and have a little fun.

windellmc

06-15-2005, 02:58 PM

Kyosho America will not be selling parts direct. You can try rcbuggyshop.com for parts but I will warn you that Kyosho America is not up to good stocking levels yet so some parts are still hard to find.

For spares I recommend keeping front lower arms and steering knuckles around if you are using the stock cast knuckles. Also keep an extra set of front hub carriers if you are using the cast knuckles. When they go they sometimes take the carrier with them. Clutch springs and clutch bearings should also be kept on hand for all 1/8 racing. You may also want to keep some shock bladders around just in case.

ExtremeDuty

06-15-2005, 05:11 PM

:D
Practise makes also 3D vision better ...

I had 645MG in my 75 for steering and brk/throttle, but after switching to 625MG in front it actually improved my driving quite a bit. 645 is way too slow for steering. In brakes it's good, the 625 is too weak to do the job.

No kidding! Even 625 is not enough for throttle/brake servo?
Hum... This means I have to put 5645MG.

Hitec 5645 was used on my old 1/8 Monster truck's steering. It has 164 oz/in torque but speed is only 0.18 sec. Considering 525BB has 0.16 sec transition speed, additional 0.02 sec would be noticable, I guess. :rolleyes:

I think the overall brake performance is dictated by brake disk & caliper, right?
Old monster truck had steel disk brakes w/ bare metal calipers w/o any pad material. The brake worked more like an on/off switch. As soon as it was applied, the truck flipped over at any speed.

Anyone use dual disk setup for brakes? I think it used to hot... Now I see lots of racers go for Cradock brakes.

Mika

06-16-2005, 07:41 AM

Yeah man, 625 cannot do the brk/throttle, it's too weak, but it's good for steering. I guess I tried to say that earlier.

Dual disk setup is good in power, but people have given up on it because of the rotating mass it increases versus single disks.

JamminJay

06-16-2005, 10:50 AM

I run JR's in my cars..... z590m on throttle (which is about 90oz, close to the 625mg) and I run a z650m on steering (approx 145oz) and I couldn't be happier. I thonk the 590 works great for throttle/brake, but then again I barely run any brake at all. Just enough to get some drag on it. I don't want it braking so much that it brakes loose...I usually just let the car roll thru the corners when possible.

ExtremeDuty

06-16-2005, 12:47 PM

I think it depends on drive style. As Jay said it would be ideal to minimize use of brake at all times w/ smooth throttle control.
I'm still too much "bash" style, which is lots of throttle and sudden full stops.

Actually, the reason why I felt weak braking was due to weakening receiver battery. I realized that the same receiver battery would last less in 1/8th buggy instead of 1/10th nitro touring cars. or maybe it is dying... It lasted about 6-7 full tank runs.

How long does your receiver battery last (1200 mAH Ni-MH)?

Mika

06-16-2005, 01:27 PM

To my experience it's best go full throttle (only) when tyres are straight and in corners just pretty much slide through, especially the smaller ones. Bigger ones you need to go thru on gas but then you can pump it

JamminJay

06-16-2005, 05:20 PM

I ran quite a bit Sunday on a 1200mah battery... Altho I have all new rx batteries as of a month or so ago. I dunno, how many tanks full, but it was quite often, and I came home with plenty of charge left. As far as Mika said for sliding thru tight corners, when racing you will scrub off a lil speed doing so, it is best just to learn where to let off, let it roll into the corner down on about 1/4-1/2 throttle, whatever it takes to control it thru and drive out of the corner, ease on the throttle, without braking her loose, and your good to go.
I'm sure DG, can remember me having this problem earlier this winter, I am too much of a throttle guy, and it really does hurt ya. I have finally gotten used to throttle control, and get better every week at it. Took alot of non-driving practice, w/ the controller. :)

nigru

06-18-2005, 05:53 AM

Hi, I use my mp777 as an on-road car only almost, and I was thinking of putting the front LSD diff. Would it be effective or will it behave the same? Another question, In my Inferno I have the OS VZ-B V-spec engine and I've out almost 6 gallons in it and still runs strong. But this I had dome problems with it and still having. It starts normally but when I give it full throttlem the engines dies out. I have reset the carburater setting changed the plug, but notting. Can anybody help me in my problem please? Thanks

Mika

06-18-2005, 08:50 AM

Are you using OS P3 plug ? It won't work anything else.
I don't Kyosho would sell the SP1 kith with LSD diff (incl. more expensive parts) if it had no positive effect. This is my first car having the LSD and I just started building it so cannot say from experience yet.

nigru

06-19-2005, 08:15 AM

ok thanks. Yes I am using that plug and changed it to a new one but still the same problem! ANYONE HElP. Thanks

Mika

06-20-2005, 06:24 AM

I have fellow driver who's also having unsolved problems w/ his relatively new V spec.
I count on RB (problem free)

Guys, how do you like the stock chassis stiffeners (torque braces) ? I'm thinking to move the Racer's Edge rear stiffener from my mp75 to the 777 and getting a new stiffener from Racer's Edge to front (old one don't fit). Is there any kind of benefit using the stock ones?

windellmc

06-20-2005, 11:34 AM

Nigru - The rear bearing may be worn out in your engine. When this happens it can cause enough drag to keep the engine from idling without dying. You might try removing the crank and feel the inner race of the rear bearing. If it has slop it is bad. If you are not comfortable taking an engine apart you will have to find someone who is.

KanaiDude

06-20-2005, 03:39 PM

V-Spec = bad bearings, I have a few friends that run them and replace the bearings with Nova bearings before they even fire the mill up. If you have 6 gallons on it thats not bad time for a new one maybe? Other then that tear that puppy apart and check everything, clutch, carb seals, rear seal, fuel, plugs, linkage endpoints...

nigru

06-20-2005, 05:33 PM

Thanks guys, another thing. So can someone give me an online link from where I can buy the Nova bearing cause I my country, we have no hobby shops :( Thanks

dgrobe2112

06-20-2005, 11:05 PM

www.amainhobbies.com for bearings, nigru.. from the sounds of what your saying.. you got an air leak.. if you reset the needles.. and its still doiong the same thing.. something is wrong.. the OS engines as of late.. have had tons of bearing problems.. what some guys are doing now.. is replacing the stock bearings as soon as they buy the engine..

If your looking for parts for the Kyosho.. www.nitrofactory.com has great prices on kyosho parts..

I highly suggest replacing the stock chassis braces on the car.. one of the best upgrades i think you can do..

Mika

06-21-2005, 11:14 AM

I highly suggest replacing the stock chassis braces on the car.. one of the best upgrades i think you can do..

Thought so.. I already ordered the front brace from Racers Edge, the rear brace I can get from my old Inferno. Along with steering knuckels these are the only upgrades I'm gonna get (apart maybe from SP2 options later on)

Dirt Pilot

06-22-2005, 05:18 AM

Can anyone here explain what each of those eccentric bushings in the front upper arms do differently tuning wise? If you use the lower a block, or upper high block, does that mean you have to use the a and high eccentric? Thanks.

Jason

dgrobe2112

06-22-2005, 08:54 AM

dirt pilot.. you can change the front roll center on the car using the bushings.. or changing the front upper block.. the higher the inner pin.. the lower the roll center.. and of course the lower the inner pin.. the higher the roll center..

Yes.. the bushings are determined by the blocks you use.. if you are using the Lower A block.. then you will want the A in the up position, if you are using the upper L block, then you want the L in the upper position in the shock tower..

using the L block, has a higher roll center- decreases on power steering, car is more responsice, use on tracks with quick direction changes, or chicanes.. and use in high grip conditions to avoid traction rolling

using the H block, has a lower roll center- increases on power steering, better on smooth high grip tracks with long fast corners..

JamminJay

06-22-2005, 10:41 AM

dgrobe2112

06-22-2005, 11:41 AM

DG, KD.... anyone else who races frequently. I just ordered a PT from amb-it, and I am curious, does it mount to the mount with screws thru them holes? I haven't recieved it yet, so I am not sure if the mount is the same size as the ears, thats why I am asking. :D thanx.

Jay.. yes.. the transponder mount is designed for an AMB personal transponder.. it will mount with screws.. i used the shortest 3mm button head screws i could find.

JamminJay

06-22-2005, 12:26 PM

Thanx!

Motorman007

06-22-2005, 05:04 PM

dgrobe2112

what happen to you this pass weekend? buggy, motor, sevro?
you was in that back main. man something bad had to happen to you. your set up did not work there? tires?

i never seen you in a low main like that for sometime now.

dibs

Motorman007

06-23-2005, 10:14 AM

what you guys know about this motor for club racing?
Hyper 8 port (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5967950284&fromMakeTrack=true)

ExtremeDuty

06-23-2005, 01:22 PM

what you guys know about this motor for club racing?
Hyper 8 port (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5967950284&fromMakeTrack=true)

I can't compare much on any .21 size engines, but I do have the same engine w/ pull starter.

I think most people say it's a good/OK engine. I have no complaints but it had so much pinch when it was new. I had hard time breaking in due to incredible pinch. You better find a very powerful starter box.

Since my Hyper is the 2nd .21 size engine, I can't tell if it has stellar power compared to other competition engines.

KanaiDude

06-23-2005, 02:36 PM

what you guys know about this motor for club racing?
Hyper 8 port (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5967950284&fromMakeTrack=true)

I had one once, didn't care for it at all, I couldn't get it to hold a tune to save it's life... I would get an OS RG for around the same coin, or spend just a little more and get a cheap RB or something.

Motorman007

06-23-2005, 02:38 PM

thanx

dibs

JamminJay

06-23-2005, 02:41 PM

ExtremeDuty

06-24-2005, 12:50 PM

I had one once, didn't care for it at all, I couldn't get it to hold a tune to save it's life... I would get an OS RG for around the same coin, or spend just a little more and get a cheap RB or something.

I heard this "doesn't hold tune" prase a lot. Does this mean engine's overall tune & performance drifts over short period of time? or Does it mean you need to re-tune the carb just like a new engine every time you start it?

Since my Hyper engine is a quick & cheap solution to a monster truck, I didn't care much. However, every time I started engine, I had to pay attention to carb tuning. I didn't mind doing that... For a bash engine, I think it's good.

When disassembled mine last time, I noticed there are lots of play in con-rod holes. Must have been due to annoying super pinch during break-in & initial usage. I think the con-rod is forged but not machined.

AreCee

06-24-2005, 04:15 PM

It would be cast. Forging is a big step up from cast metal and can be stronger than a machined part from billet.

nigru

06-24-2005, 05:38 PM

Hi guys, I've bought another V-spec engine and also bought an engine thermometer. Can someone tell me what is good range of tempretures? Thanks guys

jmangler1

06-24-2005, 06:38 PM

ExtremeDuty

06-24-2005, 07:38 PM

It would be cast. Forging is a big step up from cast metal and can be stronger than a machined part from billet.

oopsy... I think you are correct. There is no way they would do forging.
Funny thing is Hyper's con-rod casting is so nasty it does look like forging w/ center forging mark.

ExtremeDuty

06-24-2005, 07:39 PM

Hey guys, Does anyone know where I can find some of the Kyosho Drivers Set-up Sheets? I run on a rough,loose track with big jumps and pritty technical also. I just got my SP1 and want to set it up good for my track. I just had a TTR S3 and it was pritty sweet, but I just sold it and got a SP1. Cant wait to run it! I'm putting a V-spec in it.

There were a couple of U.S. Kyosho drivers' setup posted a couple pages back in this thread. Did you also check Kyosho's web page (Japanese site)? There are also several U.S. drivers' setup sheets.

ExtremeDuty

06-24-2005, 07:52 PM

jmangler1

06-24-2005, 09:56 PM

There were a couple of U.S. Kyosho drivers' setup posted a couple pages back in this thread. Did you also check Kyosho's web page (Japanese site)? There are also several U.S. drivers' setup sheets.

Cool man I wll check those sites!

Thanks!

Mika

06-25-2005, 07:59 AM

My new 777 SP1, thats gonna replace my old 7.5

http://www.snrt.net/777/777.jpg

ExtremeDuty

06-25-2005, 06:07 PM

My new 777 SP1, thats gonna replace my old 7.5

http://www.snrt.net/777/777.jpg

I like the bright yellow color. It will easy to spot among crowds of cars.
Cool, enjoy!

Mika

06-26-2005, 08:38 AM

Thanks, I will. Bit too common color scheme I guess, let's make the next one more fancy. I was in a hurry to get on track ;-)

jmangler1

06-26-2005, 08:53 PM

Hey guy's, I want to order some new shock towers and stuff for mine SP1 and had a question. Is the Kngheadz stuff a light as the Fioroni stuff(shock towers/steering nuckles/extra....

ExtremeDuty

06-27-2005, 09:46 PM

I'm stuck until the tires arrive...

:o

It's really boring.

dgrobe2112

06-30-2005, 04:40 PM

Dibs.. that weekend at JCGRC.. for the nitro invite.. was just a rough race for me in general.. first race.. had clutch issues.. replaced the clutch.. 2nd race.. the screw for the clutch bell came off.. ate up my center diff gear and clutch bell.. while leading. 3rd race.. bad start.. got hacked trying to make it through the field.. only complete run of the weekend.. and wasnt that good..

Sunday.. LCQ.. rear diff gear messed up.. replaced the complete rear diff.. for my main.. out in front.. leading.. rear diff again.. come to find out.. the rear diff housing, was broken.. and caused the rear pinion gear to angle away from the diff.. i didnt look into it too much.. after the 4th qually.. just fixed the diff.. and put it back in there.. so.. went out after 7 minutes in my main.. i had a rough weekend.. went home.. tore down the car.. found out the rear bulk head was broken.. replaced it.. took the car out of town the next weekend.. no probs at all..

The car however.. was perfect.. i was happy with it.. i didnt have alot of practice with the car up there.. however.. after the 3 heats.. there was plenty of time to practice.. and i put in alot of time with the car.. and it was good.. i guess i must have broke the rear diff housing during that time..

Sorry for the late response.. seems this website aint sending me emails anymore to tell me of new post..

dgrobe2112

06-30-2005, 04:51 PM

jmangler 1, i think the parts are as light yes.. dont ahve the bling factor.. also has big ass writing on all the parts.. KING HEADZ all over everything.. also.. i personally used king heads parts.. the anodizing came off pretty easy.. now.. i run Racers Edge parts on my MP777, has the hard anodizing color.. i know its a little more expensive.. however.. the parts have never given me trouble.. also.. their holes line up with the stock parts.. the king headz parts have tons of holes in the front shock tower.. there is almost no way to get the same setup as if you were using your standard parts.. meaning.. you see a setup sheet say.. use this hole in the upper shock tower.. hard to tell with king headz parts.. they are great parts..

also.. if you think RE parts are too expensive.. go to www.nitrofactory.com they have this product called FTD products.. those are Racers Edge parts repackaged.. great prices also..

dgrobe2112

06-30-2005, 04:53 PM

Dibs.. just an FYI.. the ofna 8 port engine.. is hard to tune.. howeve.r. some people been putting the RG carb on it.. and tuning issues are gone..

Motorman007

06-30-2005, 05:32 PM

Dgrode sorry to Here that man... i know it had to be something wrong..

did not get the Hyper 8 port got the OPS Pro to try out. got it off ebay NIB for $100..

but it has not carb on it. so i'm going to run the os carb on it. i could not pass it up for a $100 it is a $300 motor.

i will let you guys know how it goes with OPS.

dibs

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34062&item=5983451593&rd=1&ssPageName=WD2V

dgrobe2112

06-30-2005, 05:57 PM

i have not seen any OPS engines run.. except up in JCG.. other than that.. dont know much about them.. good luck

jmangler1

06-30-2005, 07:48 PM

dgrobe2112, thanks for the reply! I really like the fioroni and will mostlikely go with them. I was just unsure wheather or not K/H was as light.. I picked up a set of Fioroni steering blocks and they are as light as a feather! I can't beleave it!

dgrobe2112

06-30-2005, 10:30 PM

fioroni is good stuff.. good luck

gtoman2u

07-02-2005, 01:08 AM

Hey guys well after 3 years with an ofna I finally bought a new buggy! I just ordered the standard mp777 from tower hobbies for $264.00 shipped! I wasn't even looking for a new car but I was browsing through tower's site and they were having a Kyosho sale, the kit was like $110 off and I couldn't resist so I bought it! I know I won't be dissapointed, now I have a place to put my new 645mg hitec servos and my new Jammin JP-2 pipe, and eventually after I sell some other cars I am going to get a new engine either an RB s7 or the OS vz-b v-spec t. Which motor would you guys reccomend? What about hop ups which should be the first ones I get?

tharis

07-02-2005, 05:53 AM

S7 II must be a very powerful motor. It has the same piston&sleeve with the WS7II. It also has a very big cooling head. I trust RB engines more that any other. V-spec must be also a very durable engine.

As the standart edition of MP777 if you want to go for races i think it needs many optionals ( CVDs .. etc)

dgrobe2112

07-02-2005, 12:36 PM

for the standard kit.. the only thing that i would reccommend is shock towers, and chassis braces.. Racers Edge parts are very tough, www.racers-edge.com or go to www.nitrofactory.com and they have RE stuff repackaged for very cheap.. i like the color of the RE parts, the hard anodized looks is clean looking.. but you will be very happy with the car.. feel free to come back.. ask questions..

toughtrax1

07-03-2005, 03:18 PM

why does it seem like all the parts are getting discontinued? Are they comeing out with a new buggy that the SP1 parts wont fit on?

dgrobe2112

07-04-2005, 03:50 AM

towerhobbies no longer carries kyosho parts.. thats why they are discontinuing the kyosho parts.. kyosho america is now the dealer.. if you want to order parts online.. go to www.nitrofactory.com i think amainhobbies.com has kyosho parts also

J_Bone

07-04-2005, 04:43 PM

Thanks for the info guys!!! I'm in the process of buying either the SP-1 or just the kit.
I think I will go with the SP-1, but it looks like it still needs chassis braces?? What about kingshead parts? Any links to their site? I did a search and it came up empty.

fearlessone

07-04-2005, 06:27 PM

Do you guys know where I can get the K-Factory Captured hing pin set #K8034 for the 777 special? I cant find them anywhere online. I know the k-factory website but they dont sell directly.

dgrobe2112

07-05-2005, 10:22 AM

dgrobe2112

07-05-2005, 10:24 AM

fearless.. if you go to tower hobbies website.. they are called trinity hinge pins, instead of kfactory. they dont ahve the full kit in stock, however.. they do have a few of the certain lengths.. i would really try to get the front upper hinge pin.. that is the one that is a pain in the butt to clip..

Little_Horn

07-05-2005, 05:04 PM

jbone.. the SP1 is a good car, and just an FYI.. they will be releasing the SP2 within a month.. so.. just thought i would let you know.. the SP2, is basically the same car.. with a few updates.. like longer chassis.. new thicker shock towers.. different universals.. and such.. just to tame the rear of the SP1 down.. is basically what is happening...

I would like to say something about this, if anyone cares to read it (because nobody cares when I post... lol :( But here goes anyway) :

The Kyosho upgrade Kit from standard/SP1 to SP2, was supposed to come arround the beginning of August (the last time I heard about it). This information came through a major Kyosho dealer. But now, it seems that Kyosho is having some trouble (information also from the same dealer) in the manufactoring process. So, there might be a new date (delay). Maybe end of August, beginning of September.

About the differences:
Besides what you said, the kit comes also with some new springs. This is very important, since the "old" ones are getting too small. I mean, have you seen the amount of spacers you need to use on the springs? That is just too much. When you compress the shock to the limit, you can see that the spring is fully compressed, generating way too much tension. With the new springs, the shock absortion will be more progressive. The new turnbuckes are something that we needed also a long time ago. The "old" ones just don't go deep enough. I never heard of any problems with the "old" ones, but it's better to be safe then sorrow. The new filter has a metal interior and some "things" (I don't know what to call them) that hold better the foam in it's place. The new filter is very good. The only down side is that a standard foam won't fit. Only Kyosho ones (for now...) The inside diameter is different. But we can always use it's new curve. The horizontal section of the curve is smaller and because of that, the filter wont touch the body as much as it used too.

Hope you read it... ;)

dgrobe2112

07-05-2005, 05:45 PM

Little_Horn

07-05-2005, 06:09 PM

so.. the new filter will fit better under the body.. that would be sweet.. i currently use OS filters.. cuz i dont really like the material in the current Kyosho filter.. and yes.. the amount of shock spacers in the rear of the car is crazy..

Yes, that's it. The foam is also different, not only in it's dimensions (only on the interior), but also on its composition. The new foam is more dense. But still, I don't trust it very much. I always use a two stage filter.
There is also a new pivot suspension plastic piece. This piece doesn't come in the upgrade kit (just like the arms don't). But, it was seen (at least) in the Kanai's car. It's that piece that holds the upper front suspension arms (rear piece). It's now thicker. It touches the servo saver plate, so the chassis will be more rigid.
I suspect this piece will come in the (complete car) SP2 kit.
About the towers:
The SP1 towers are very good, but in some conditions, they might bend. The new towers are awesome. They are as thick as fioroni (maybe not as much, but you get the idea...). The front tower only has 3 upper holes (instead of 6). Almost nobody uses the lower ones anyway...
I forgot to mention that there are longer rear shock shafts. With the new springs and new longer chassis, we can now use the full length of the suspension (even with the new rear, longer shafts) without loosing handling performance.

I have a friend corrently at the European Championship and he already has the upgrade kit. For what he has seen at the Kyosho Masters, the new upgrade kit really makes a difference. I'll tell you his impressions as soon as I know.

J_Bone

07-05-2005, 06:37 PM

Thanks for the Info guys!! Maybe I will wait since I won't be racing as much in the summer here in Arizona. 110 today...too hot!
I want to get a kit that is up to date for once. It always feels like I'm chasing just to keep up.

Nice to know the SP-2 will be a better kit. Woo hoo

JamminJay

07-05-2005, 06:42 PM

so.. the new filter will fit better under the body.. that would be sweet.. i currently use OS filters.. cuz i dont really like the material in the current Kyosho filter.. and yes.. the amount of shock spacers in the rear of the car is crazy..
OK speaking of air filters, I know what you mean.... I use the Ofna, 2stage I guess it's called. I like it, does push against the body as well, but it seems to really let the ole' P5 breathe.

Also a lil off topic here, DG (& anyone else who wants to chime in) Just curious what radio your using and what you think of it. I sold my XS3, was gonna get the Z-1, (cuz I love how the helios felt) but decided to get a helios, and befor ethat arrived, I had done sold it, and changed my mind once again. Why? I asked myself this several times, and the pros out-weighed the cons everytime. the only con was the fact I had never held this radio, and heard alot of people didn't like how it felt and that it felt heavy. So what did I get.......? yup, you guessed it. I got a 3pk. Ordered all new. the 3pk, 4 new futaba servos, the custom wheel, dry-cell holder, charge receptacle and the deans for my charger, and yes the spektrum. Well the radio and accessories arrived today, and I love how the radio feels, esp with the drop down. I think this was an excellent choice, basically I weighed the pros, such as I could get the DSM, and the fact that every1 i know that uses Futaba, swears by their quality. You either love them, or ya don't it seems I have found. After today... I think Futaba has a new customer. ;)

I know I share senseless things like this with you guys, but I guess it's just cuz I am soo pleased and happy about what I have become in the last year. between my driving skills and no extra parts, and second hand buggy, to almost a whole second drake in parts, and a 777 thats is basically a sp1, and "I" bought a new P5, and 3pk... no more second hand stuff....it just feels good ya know, sense of pride pays off when you work hard for things ya really want.

-J.J.

dgrobe2112

07-05-2005, 06:52 PM

Little_Horn

07-05-2005, 06:52 PM

In my opinion, you just bought the best radio there is.
Nice...

JamminJay

07-05-2005, 06:59 PM

i use the helios, i personally didnt like the 3pk, but thats just personal preference, also.. the 3pk does have the PCM, which is a built in failsafe... which is pretty cool.. thats one thing that the helios dont have.. however.. if you run spektrum, you cant run in pcm anyway.. all the buttons are very easy to get too on the helios also.. and.. now.. if i ever decide to get away from spektrum.. there is always the option to get the new z1 module.. and be synthesized...

Seems your pretty hip to the 3pk. I have my own failsafes, so if I set the radio failsafe off, can I still use my own? Also, I read that the spektrum can be used with analog servos, so where would I set my radio settings to then? PCM, or HRS?

Thanx little horn.

Little_Horn

07-05-2005, 07:19 PM

fearlessone

07-05-2005, 07:20 PM

I just ordered the SP1 from tower cause its such a good price. When the SP2 comes, its gonna be $700 again. Mine was $545.

Little_Horn

07-05-2005, 07:26 PM

You can always buy the upgrade kit when it comes out. The estimated price will be about € 260 (+-). I think it will be about as much in dollars (260).

J_Bone

07-05-2005, 07:48 PM

I just ordered the SP1 from tower cause its such a good price. When the SP2 comes, its gonna be $700 again. Mine was $545.
not bad...My Tower price is $519, but my LHS guy said he would get me it for cost. .. I help them with there web site so it's the least they can do. PLus I race for free and practice for free.

kmorast

07-05-2005, 08:39 PM

What difference in handling can I expect between running a front LSD diff and a regular diff. I just built the LSD and noticed it works like a regualr diff when it's not in the car. I imagine on power it would lock up and work more like a spool. So am I wrong to say it would work like a regular diff off power and then lock up and pull the car out of corners possibly giving better on power steering?

JamminJay

07-05-2005, 08:43 PM

If I'm not mistaken, the spektrum module needs to run in HRS mode with the 3pk. So, you need to set the 3pk in HRS mode. This mode by itselft is not incompatible with analog servos. The HRS reciever is. But, if you're using the spektrum module, you also need to use the spektrum transciever and because of this, you can use analog servos.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. But I think I'm not.

Well, that's exactly what I was thinking. So i did get the dsm reciever...actually 2, one for each car. :D

jmangler1

07-05-2005, 09:19 PM

Well, that's exactly what I was thinking. So i did get the dsm reciever...actually 2, one for each car. :D

I was going to get a M11 with spectrum, but got a good deal on the new Spectrum radio so I couldn't pass it up! $210. It's great I love it! Doesn't have all the options that the M11/3pk has but, its still spectrum and super responsive! I never use all those options any way! Plus my hand is too big for the M8 so I know M11 is the same size. I had the 3PK but, wasn't too crazy about it, I also didnt have the spectrum setup for it either. Very nice and easy to use though. The Spectrum radio isn't as nice looking as the others, but its a great deal!

J_Bone

07-06-2005, 12:43 AM

Well I couldn't wait and got me a 777 sp-1 for $509 shipped to my house. The discounts are a great thing!! LOL

fearlessone

07-06-2005, 01:27 AM

what codes did you use for that? Best I saw was a $30 off.

Also, with the SP1 kit, without having to read back 100 pages,
What all should I do in upgrades or use or not use in the kit?

Are the braces ok? Brakes? Ect....

J_Bone

07-06-2005, 06:42 AM

ya, I added some extra stuff so my total was over $600 which = $60 off.

dgrobe2112

07-06-2005, 11:48 AM

the LSD will act up in the rough stuff.. making the car really twitchy.. and almost undrivable.. i would reccommend you get the regular diff in place of the LSD..

www.racers-edge.com has some captured hinge pins for the MP777. just like the kfactory set..

fearlessone

07-06-2005, 12:58 PM

Yeah I just ordered some pins from racers-edge. I'm the one the actually got them to put it on their website. I asked them and they said they had them in stock. Then I was like, WHERE? Then they said just go to the site and order it. Then I said oh really! NOT! I told them you show me where they are on your site. Then they said.. OH..... I guess it aint.. lol The same day, it was up.

What he has listed are K-Factory BTW. Spendy suckers though.

AreCee

07-06-2005, 02:52 PM

If I'm not mistaken, the spektrum module needs to run in HRS mode with the 3pk. So, you need to set the 3pk in HRS mode. This mode by itselft is not incompatible with analog servos. The HRS reciever is. But, if you're using the spektrum module, you also need to use the spektrum transciever and because of this, you can use analog servos.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. But I think I'm not.
So sorry but You are wrong.

You need to set the 3PK to PPM with the Spektrum module and receiver. You can use analog servos with the Spektrum or Futaba PCM Rx. It's only the HRS Rx that you need to use only digital servos because of the high rate speed of the Rx.

Little_Horn

07-06-2005, 05:01 PM

So sorry but You are wrong.

You need to set the 3PK to PPM with the Spektrum module and receiver. You can use analog servos with the Spektrum or Futaba PCM Rx. It's only the HRS Rx that you need to use only digital servos because of the high rate speed of the Rx.

I knew the HRS "thing", but I was not sure about the spektrum... Thanks for correcting me. ;)

fearlessone

07-06-2005, 05:46 PM

Just dont let it happen AGAIN! :mad:

dgrobe2112

07-06-2005, 05:47 PM

thanks fear.. i just noticed them today.. got me a set coming.. let me know how you like them.. :)

Mika

07-07-2005, 03:15 PM

Interesting stuff Little_Horn. I just got spent two days on track with the 777SP1 after my 7.5 and I'm very much satisfied the way it works on track. We have lots of big jumps and SP1 flies so nicely. SP2 maybe great and more forgiving but the way SP1 handles jumps is just awesome. So happy I finally decided to move to 777.

dgrobe2112

07-07-2005, 04:08 PM

sweet.. mika.. thats something else.. i think is a big thing.. your hardcore Kyosho guys.. like me.. and others.. who came from the 7.5, to the 777 complained that the 7.5 didnt turn.. then.. they give us the 777, turns around on itself.. turns so good.. it would prolly hit itself in the ass.. anyway.. i think alot of people got the 777, all the steering.. and the car is loose.. of course.. cuz of all the steering.. and hated it.. me personally.. i almost did get rid of it.. but tried different setups.. finally got the 777 how i like it.. then they are releasing the SP2, with a longer chassis.. to tame the rear down.. i think it will be the same as before.. people then here asking how to get more steering out of their SP2. hahah

J_Bone

07-07-2005, 07:23 PM

Well it sounds like I will like this buggy. I've been searching for more steering on my OFNA, every thing for that matter. It's always easier to dial out steering than get it!!
It will be here on Tuesday!! Woo Hoo...

fearlessone

07-07-2005, 08:16 PM

My will be here tomorrow.. SO HA! :D

dgrobe2112

07-08-2005, 05:33 PM

I allready have one.. so.. boo yah.. :p

Little_Horn

07-08-2005, 05:33 PM

Well... It's confirmed. The new "thing" is excellent. Very stable, fast, forgiving, you name it...
The drivers are still getting used to it. God damn Kyosho allways does the same thing! Releases a new car near a very important competition! :(
The thing about the SP1 is that it is very sensitive to changes. You constantly have to change setup, even if condition vary just a little. The new SP2 is more constant/forgiving and the new springs together with the new rear shock shafts give more stabillity on the bumps.
I'm sure you'll really like this new car. Can't wait to get my hands on the upgrade kit... ;)

fearlessone

07-08-2005, 08:59 PM

What I get for saying that. I got me new kit today from tower... Yeah I got it alright, THE REGULAR 777! I paid for the SP1! I told them and they are sending me another one. And a pre-paid thing to send this one back. Good thing they still had the SP1 in stock! :mad:

fearlessone

07-08-2005, 09:00 PM

J_Bone

07-08-2005, 11:18 PM

You better hope its not the plain 777!

Nope...sp-1

fearlessone

07-09-2005, 12:03 AM

How do you know its the SP-1? You dont have it yet. Re-read what I wrote.
I ordered the SP-1 also. But I was sent NON_SP-1. ( REGULAR VERSION).

J_Bone

07-09-2005, 08:14 AM

WELL OK!! I ORDERED A SP-1. SO I haven't gotten it yet...

Malph46

07-09-2005, 12:07 PM

hi i'm from te Netherlands and i heard about the 777
i have a mp 7.5 myself
i also noticed that the inferno 777 sp1 better than the sp2
i would love to see a real inferno race !!!!
http://freefilehosting.net/bin/?id=qtHwkak= see my mp 7.5 !
check our scooter site ! (http://communities.zeelandnet.nl/data/breskenscoastracers/)

ExtremeDuty

07-10-2005, 09:07 PM

Now only if I can have my enthusiasm back to glue them on rims... :D

1 set of Panther Switch for indoor clay track. Phew! It's been so long since I smelled "cheapo" rubber stuff. Panther needs to learn how to eliminate this bad rubber smell.
1 set of Proline Bad Land for play... I really like the tread pattern. As they advertise they really bring my wild side out of me!
1 set of Proline Moab for everything. I like the pattern and want to confirm what they say about its versatility. I will try these set on all kinds of different surface conditions.

Also, I got Ofna's 053 pipe for 421B engine. I still need to setup my starter box for .21 buggy. With this speed, I will start breaking in 421B engine next year, seriously... :)

I'm just getting into a new hobby and this one seems to drain my energy.

Mika

07-12-2005, 06:52 AM

I switched recently to Panther tires along w/ 777 and seems more durable than Proline

Here's a pic of my new SP2 body (lighter than original)

http://www.snrt.net/777/new/top.jpg

J_Bone

07-12-2005, 08:02 AM

I switched recently to Panther tires along w/ 777 and seems more durable than Proline
Here's a pic of my new SP2 body (lighter than original)

Very nice!
I like Panther tires better myself. I use Komoto 2's up front and Komoto's on the rear.

HIRISK

07-13-2005, 03:46 AM

Hi Guys,

I am currently in the market for a new buggy and am definately considering the Kyosho MP777. Tower have them at a reasonable price and they seem to be a great buggy. The only other buggy I am looking at is the Hyper 7 TQ.

I want to build it myself and that is why these two are on my list, they are both kits and are both priced well for what they are.

My question is, I have three motors in mind and as I have had no experience with any of them, would really appreciate some feedback on which would be a better engine etc etc.

The three I have got down to are...
O.S. VZ-B V Spec
Collari B7
Picco P7R

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Cheers,
Shaun.

JamminJay

07-13-2005, 03:52 AM

I can't speak first hand about the Collari's... But I hear they are decent motors...DG would know more about them. However both the OS and Picco are decent motors. Out of the 3 you listed, I would have to say the V-spec.

dgrobe2112

07-13-2005, 08:53 AM

hirisk..

The MP777 will be way better than the hyper 7.. i have seen so many people get rid of the hyper7 after driving the 777. double check with tower and make sure they have them in stock.. last i checked they didnt have them in stock..

I have seen the B7 run.. and its very sweet.. only thing.. people are having trouble with the carbs on them.. leaking.. and not sealing that great.. i got a B3, for 175 bux.. seen them get over 10mins a tank..

The Picco P7, is also a ballistic motor.. tons of all around power.. i wonder if it has too much power.. i have seen one.. never personally run one.. buts its crazy fast..

And finally... the Vspec.. out of the 3 you listed.. this would be my choice.. i have used this engine.. while it dont hold the tight pinch the P5 does.. it does flat rip.. the motor is a good linear motor.. good power all around.. 10 minutes a tank with the 2050 pipe.. little teadeous to tune.. seems to idle weird.. but when you get it you get it..

Now... on a personal level.. i would highly suggest the Top P5. That engine ahs been my best by far, still have 2 of them, both.. tune so easy.. never have to mess with them.. tons of power.. most reliable engine i have ever had.. i got well over 5 gallons in one.. and it is still hard to turn through the pinch.. great engine.. last forever.. and as cheap.. or cheaper than the ones you listed..

JamminJay

07-13-2005, 10:52 AM

DG- Hahahaha... man...sometimes I read your posts and think they are my own :D between when you had your drake, we both were racing the same 2 cars. And just to let you know for the record, your advice on both of them has been an asset to me, thats why I always ask you.

Now on with what I was gonna post..... I was also gonna suggest ditching the hyper for the 777, and also suggest the P5, as I love mine. But I figured my advice was biased as to what I have. You mentioned you have the top version. I have the Rex, there isnt a whole lot of differences in them or the tolerances is there?

dgrobe2112

07-13-2005, 10:59 AM

quoting from a buddy of mine.. the REX, TOP and NOVA P5's are all the same *****.. different dress.. hahah

The internals are all the same.. different head on each.. and i believe they are made in different factories..

dgrobe2112

07-13-2005, 11:00 AM

bleeped out my word.. same hore different dress..

JamminJay

07-13-2005, 11:05 AM

Hahahaha thats some analogy. -That's funny right there, i don't care who ya are. ;)

Yea that's what I thought. I only chose the Rex for 2 reasons, I heard more about them, as in they seem to be more popular, and the simple cosmetic issue, I think the blue head looks better than the others on the Kyosho blue. I understand you have alot of the brownish aluminum from racer's edge on yours correct? In that case I would have went with the black Top as well.

fearlessone

07-13-2005, 11:40 AM

going to run the collari B7 in mine. My buddy has one, he has 8 gallons on it. It was the most topend motor on the track. I had a REX 421B and he could beat me. He never had tuning issues either. Purred like a kitten.

dgrobe2112

07-13-2005, 12:44 PM

fearless.. yes.. you are correct.. the B7 my buddy has.. seems to never stop picken up speed.. hahah

Mika

07-13-2005, 03:32 PM

I have RB C5 (along w/ WS7II) in my 777, it's a great engine and as fast or perhaps even faster than P5 (comparing to the fastest guy on track having P5; recently came seventh on euro champs) but the power curve isn't quite linear. You can help that using the RB 2020 pipe.
I think I've run 4 gallons thru it and it's still running strong. Easy tune and fast, may lack some bottom end though, not sure since I haven't tried P5. The dowside is that RB engines are quite expensive.

It seems, I'm gonna be testing the SP2 upgrade kit around the end of the month. It may be that I ditch the longer chassis, let's see, but the options are definitely nice. The SP2 body is more flexible than the original so I suspect it will last very long.

J_Bone

07-13-2005, 06:08 PM

ya, I sold my Hyper to get a 777 sp-1.!!
Haven't driven the 777 yet though. It's only 1/4 of the way built.

fearlessone

07-13-2005, 11:11 PM

LOL. same here. My hypers for sale right now on ebay. My 777 SP1 just came today. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5986190854

Malph46

07-14-2005, 05:58 AM

i think i will sell mine too it has an OS rz-v99b engine
must have a mp777 sp1 :eek:

check our site many movies (http://communities.zeelandnet.nl/data/breskenscoastracers/)

Malph46

07-14-2005, 06:13 AM

it has not many hop up options only a chassis stabilizer & front + rear wheelshafts !!!

check our site many movies (http://communities.zeelandnet.nl/data/breskenscoastracers/)

KanaiDude

07-14-2005, 01:52 PM

Hey guys long time... Almost have my head out of my azz, been driving that new car of mine, installing race headers, dvd players, HID's haha it's been fun but now back to reality. My friends all give me hell, there like dude your missing the best racing of the summer, i'm like haha so you want me to come out and kick your azz this weekend, so I better bring my skillz this weekend wish me luck, war story on monday!

dgrobe2112

07-14-2005, 04:38 PM

hahaha.. gonna have to get pics of the finished ride KD.. long time no speak.. howz life treating ya.. good i hope.. all is well.. let me know how things go this weekned.. with the races..

jmangler1

07-16-2005, 12:03 AM

Hey guys I want to redo my shock fluids on my SP1 and just wondering what everyone else is useing!

dgrobe2112

07-16-2005, 12:15 AM

jman.. my current setup during the summer time is 60 in the front, and 40 in the rear.. when it gets colder out.. i go a little lighter.. like 55, 35 or if the track is really rough..

jmangler1

07-16-2005, 07:25 AM

DG, Thanks! I was looking at some set-up sheet off Kyosho's website and I didn't know what weights they used. So I figured I'd ask here. My one track I run at is really rough and rutted up with a lot of kikers and also has some huge jumps so I think I'm going to try 60 in front and 40 in rear. I'm going to check out this othe track in August and its alot smoother, I wonder if I should lighten it before I go their.

jmangler1

07-16-2005, 07:43 AM

Hirisk, I currrently run the V-Spec and love it, I love it so much I sold my WS7 and C5 and bought another one as a back-up. It has awsome low end and balistic mid, and great top end. It just has it all over. Its almost too much power. The C5 may only have a tiny bit more top end but by the time that thing got to speed the V-spec been their! My buddy has a EB modded P5 and I leave him on the straights every time! I also have a modded M2K its definately sick but for the price you pay for te V-Spec you cant beat it! And if thats not enough power for you you can send it to get RB modded. From what I hear the RB modded V-Spec is the sickest motor around! Other people may disagree with my opinions, but everyone does their own thing.

My cousinwent out and bought all the hotest motors you can get, JP Black, CMB .21, M2k, C5, Max Power .21,JP P5 and a V-Spec. All those motors I listed execpt the V-Spec are in the $500 dollar range and are modded. They are supposed to be the ****! He ran them all but just didnt want to run the V-Spec because he just didnt think it would have been as powerful as the others. Finally a few months later he decides to break it in and he couldn't beleave how sick the motor was. He was kind of pissed he spend all that money on those High Dollar Modded motors! But he absolutely love's the V-Spec and is buying any other modded motors!

I pulled this off the Grid

"if you need more low-end punch out of your v-spec just send it to rick brake at rb-mods. i had mine done this weekend and cant begin to tell you what a difference it made. more rpm, better fuel consumption (well over 8 minutes to a tank), almost twice the low-end punch and at 220F (stock head) it was more power than a modded engine by anyone else could shake a stick at. its kinda funny how i used to think my jp p5 (m2k)had power- there is no way it could keep up with this one. "

FIL 2109

07-16-2005, 10:53 AM

Hi all,

Can anyone identify which Inferno model this is?
Thanks

Inferno (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5985757210)

ExtremeDuty

07-16-2005, 09:44 PM

Hi all,

Can anyone identify which Inferno model this is?
Thanks

Inferno (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5985757210)

Whoa, I don't know much about old Infernos but man, that is one heck of bad description. "3.5 4x4" :rolleyes:

FIL 2109

07-17-2005, 04:09 PM

Whoa, I don't know much about old Infernos but man, that is one heck of bad description. "3.5 4x4" :rolleyes:

Yep, it definatley is a bad ebay listing, It was the main reason I bid (as I reckoned few pple would bid) for the car as I got the other info from asking the seller directly via email. Just hope the car turns out OK and I can still get parts for it! It runs and is 2 years old according to the seller. It is not an MP5 version as the front uprights are different!

Anyone any Ideas?

jmangler1

07-17-2005, 08:26 PM

Hey guys, Just blew my rear diff. I was wondering if the front and the rear are the same? I know the front is TDC but I didn't know if the rear was?

jmangler1

07-17-2005, 08:41 PM

Where the well can I order parts fr this thing other than Ebay. I can't find any websites to order this rear diff from! This sucks!

YZ167

07-17-2005, 08:56 PM

I thought the Mp's were Tuff, how did you blow up the rear diff? Just curious, I'm thinking about getting one. Hey guys how come Tower has them so cheap compared to everywhere else? To bad they are out of stock though =(

jmangler1

07-17-2005, 09:25 PM

Dont know how I did it for sure, but I was at my buddies track and it has some sick jumps! The jumps are so big and fast a few times I hit them a little off and had to get on the pipe hard to come back when I was in the air so I would land without haveing a bad crash. A few times I landed and I was still on the pipe alittle to much I think! I still didnt rip it apart to pin point it, but I'm sure its the rear diff. !! When I hold the center shaft and spinn both rear wheels I hear a clicking noise....

dgrobe2112

07-17-2005, 10:07 PM

for parts go to www.nitrofactory.com or www.amainhobbies.com they got some parts..

the reason tower is so cheap is because kyosho does not allow Great Planes to distribute for them anymore.. Kyosho has its own distribution in the US now..

the rear and front diffs are the same.. what did you blow in your rear diff.. the big main gear.. make sure you have your diff shimmed correctly.. usually more shims on the left side of the car.. that could be the reason.. also.. check and make sure your diff housing is not cracked.. i broke mine on a hard hit to the rear..landed wrong.. and the case broke.. which allowed the pinion gear to come loose.. and the mesh was all messed up..

jmangler1

07-17-2005, 10:23 PM

Well I got it all apart and It wasn't the Diff after all.. I took the diff apart and all was good inside and when putting back together I noticed that the bearings on the left side of the diff were shot! Thats why my mesh was goofy! Now because of that my drive bevel gear is worn alittle funny! the very edge of it has more teeth than the rest of it. The edge I'm talking about is the edge by the bearing in which it slides through. I wonder if it will be OK to run like that or should I replace it(bevel gear).... Anyone know where I can order from. I already replace the bad bearing though. I will check the above websites! Thanks DG!!

fearlessone

07-17-2005, 11:51 PM

1/8th diffs are extremely tough but they do break after a good time of use. I found usually the pinion gear goes. I've never blown any other gear.
WWW.NITROHOUSE.COM has parts for the 777 now. Mainly because Kyosho of America is right up the street from them now.. OH and ME! :D

THey dont have the parts on the website but call them... they are still fixing the kyosho part of the site.

YZ167

07-18-2005, 01:49 AM

How good are these Mp777's for those of you who have several 1/8 scale buggies. I have wanted an 1/8 scale buggy for years now. I was going to get an MBX 5 but I never did. With the price tag on the new Mp777's I think I just might get one. I mean is the Mp777(Stock One) a lot better than the Kanai 1 and 2's, or for that matter even the Mp 7.5? All of those slightly older buggies are going for a reasonable amount on ebay as well. I have always liked building my cars and trucks so I know exactly how they work which is why I would perfer to build my own over those. Anyones 2 cents would be of great value.
Thanks,
Jacob

Mika

07-18-2005, 03:36 AM

I swiched from 7.5 to 777 this season and like I have posted earlier to this thread I'm glad I did the upgrade finally. 777 flies much better which is important in my local track among other improvements in my driving. However, SP2 is it's way from K which is supposed to change the car's dynamics into more forgiving direction (plus nice upgrades, too). For some the 777's agility has been too much obviously. For some reason I seem to be breaking more parts w/ 777SP1 than I ever did my 7.5 (that was bullet proof with Racers Edge full option), though. Maybe the (plastic) parts quality isn't just there yet as it was with 7.5, SP2 is expected to fix some of the (minor) problems.

Guys, any experience on this economy engine Novarossi REX BR21SB01
http://www.novarossi.it/eng/br21sb01.htm
Short stroke, I heard the price/quality is 100%, what's your opinion?

jmangler1

07-18-2005, 05:21 AM

I love my 777 SP1! I has never roke on me until this weekend. It was only a bearing though. I jumps better than any other bug at my track. I let a guy with a XB8 drive it and he couldn't beleave how good it turned!

jmangler1

07-18-2005, 05:27 AM

Hey DG, I'm running 60wt in front and 50 in the rear shocks. Its running great just curious to how much preload clips you are running? I know these buggies run alot of preload but not sure how much.... Right now its jumping great but its not really plush it is a little ridgid. I drove my old prospec and it seemed more forgiving and like it just was alot less bouncy.. Maby I should change the spring weight and use less preload????

fearlessone

07-18-2005, 12:16 PM

read below.

fearlessone

07-18-2005, 12:18 PM

Its bouncy cause your rear shock oil is too heavy. 50 is way to much.
40 should be your max in the rear. I'd try 35. I have a set-up sheet from one of the pro sponsored drivers. Hes running 60 front, 35 rear. 1.4 pistons. Blue springs. Set your front buggy arms just above level. And rear arms, level.

KanaiDude

07-18-2005, 12:26 PM

Sooo, I had an ok run this weekend, finished up 4th. I was ok with that since I haven't been out much lately. The real fun was in qualifying, I'm racing this guy, and we are bumping a little, he gets me and I flip. I think nothing of this, I don't know who's car is who's on the track I am totally focused on my car and driving. So I catch back up to him and we are going down the straight and I clip him by accident, he starts yelling god damnit Brian on the drivers stand. So i'm turnmarshalling the next race, and here he comes, gets about 6 inches from my face, dude is about twice as big as I, and starts saying things like do we have a problem, paybacks are a bitch, is this something we need to finish after the race, dude is intense. I look at him dead in the eyes and I'm like dude I have no idea what your talking about. He's like whatever yells some more and walks away. So i give it about 1 minute before I get in this dudes face I'm like what's your problem, he's like don't start with my I'll knock your block off, I said do it, dude hit me please haha. So later this guy is in the B-main, flips over in front of me like 20 times and every time I put him back on the track in balistic time, he comes up to me after the race and shakes my hand and says thanks. Then after I run the A-main he comes up and he's like sorry, i'm like whatever man try not to take it so personally. OK i'm done, he really unerved me though and pretty much ruined my groove and the rest of the night. I've been taking it easy racing lately, this may be all it takes for me to hang up the controller, I only went out this weekend to have fun with my friends, not to be bullied by some 45 year azz monkey, some people need a serious reality check at the race track they are toy cars!!

jmangler1

07-18-2005, 02:27 PM

Thanks Fear! I will switch it right now and head over to the track! I was driveing pritty good like it was I would love it if my bug would be alittle more forgiving. If I tried to just cruz around the track it would be all over, but if I'm driving fast it gets alot better.

dgrobe2112

07-18-2005, 08:08 PM

jman.. the current MP777 uses alot of preload clips in the rear.. because of the longer shock bodies.. and shafts.. and all the extra travel.. but.. they never updated the springs.. now.. the SP2 will have longer springs.. which will require less preload.. they will be available next month i belive..

Also.. i have not had part breaking problems.. the 777 parts are made from a different materieal than tha previous 7.5, because of lightness.. also.. they are trying different things... because they have some made of different materials and have different part numbers for the different materials..

just FYI jman.. if you want to replace the rear pinion gear.. the one from the Ofna Hyper7 will work.. and may cost a little less.. or your hobby shop may carry it.. also.. the X5 suspension seems to handle the rough stuff much better than the 777, however.. i have lightened the oils.. to 55/35 in my car.. and works much better.. during the hot.. summer time.. i use 60 in the front

dgrobe2112

07-18-2005, 08:09 PM

kd.. sounds like a tough weekend.. hahah.. dont let that guy sway you like that.. the hobby is for fun.. not for fighting.. sorry that "azz monkey" ruined it for ya..

YZ167

07-18-2005, 08:35 PM

I called up Towerhobbies today to see when they would get there Mp777's in stock again and they said Kyosho pulled the plug on them and that they would no longer be carring there products. The lady said that Kyosho was planning on selling their kits and no longer planning on using Tower.
Food got thought... Oh well
My local hobby shop has the regular mp777 for 350 bucks. Anyone no anywhere else that is cheaper then that?
Thanks

fearlessone

07-18-2005, 09:39 PM

Heres what happened to me at Tower..

I ordered the 777 SP1. They charged me $579. ( new closeout kit price).
They instead sent me the 777 Regular. ($279 new closeout price). So I called them, they said they are going to send me the SP1 right away. And they did. I recieved it in two days. They didnt charge me anything for the second kit they sent me since I basicly already paid. And they are going to also send me a pre-paid label to send the first 777 Regular kit back.

So far, its been three weeks.. No pre-paid return label. No other charge on my credit card other than for the one SP1 kit. SOoooooooooooooo...
Looks like I get a free 777 Regular kit if I dont say anything.. :D

I bet they are so eager to get rid of kyosho, they dont want it back. LOL.
SO now I have TONS of extra parts. ;)

fearlessone

07-18-2005, 09:41 PM

jmangler1

07-18-2005, 11:15 PM

Dg, I cant wait till the SP2 kits out so we can have a spring that will better match the shocks! It will make a big difference I bet! Even though my 777 was alittle more ridgid the my old prospec I still liked driveing it better! I has sooo much more steering. The Prospec just had horrible on power steering(wrong set-up prob.) where it was more like point and shoot with the SP1. I let my buddy drive it who currently has a XB8 and he love my SP1 he said it has way more steering then his bug also.

I have some battery issues, I run an Ofna 1400mah hump pak and a Associated 12 hump pack. I charge them over night and they will both last a while but when I go to charge them after they die on the chager for a quick 15min charge or so they only last a tank or so? Is it my batteries tey are both new. Maby they only like a Slow charge? I don't know, but it sucks! I had to charger them arter every tank basically. If not they would die on my second refill! Maby my batteries suck or maby its it my servo's. I run Spectrum DX3 and Airtronics Digital HS steering servo and a servo that came with my DX3 for the throttle. Would appreciate any suggestions!

JamminJay

07-18-2005, 11:32 PM

I have found that just a repeak, makes batteries last much less. Try cycling them. Discharge them down, then recharge them at 1.0amp. as long as you reach like 6.70v, you should last a while. My 1200 venom pack tops about 6.7-6.9v, and I ran quite a while this weekend and still had alot of charge left, and I am running the 3pk, and spektrum, futaba servos. hope this helps.

fearlessone

07-19-2005, 01:30 AM

I use Ballistic batteries. www.ballisticbatteries.com
6.0 volts. 2300-2500 MAH. #8RX2300 Will last ALL day with two digital servos. I wont own anything else. $30 bucks.

jmangler1

07-19-2005, 06:08 AM

Thanks guys! I'm gonna have to try those ballisticsbats!!!!

AreCee

07-19-2005, 08:20 AM

OFNA 1200 hump pack; lasts for pre-race practice, three 5 min. qualifiers and a 15 min. main using two digital servos and DSM all on one charge.

jmangler1

07-19-2005, 04:44 PM

Whats a good charger to use aby thats what my problem. I currently using a regular charger that takes all night to charge. I never completely dicarge baterries. I dont know if that matters, but I usally just plug them in over night if I'm going to run the next day.

JamminJay

07-19-2005, 04:56 PM

I found that to be my problem....not saying it's yours, but it's worth a try. i used to do the same thing. All I had was a charger that peaked. It worke fine for a while wit no problems, but then it got to where they were dumping during a heat. this happened all day during one weekend. I got alot of advice and everyone said to try discharging them then re-peak. you can pick-up a cheap charger such as the intellipeak digital $95, or i think a couple cheaper intellipeaks offer a discharge cycle as well. or look on ebay or check the forums for like an integy 16x3prov2.5, or better yet a 16x4pro. That will even charge your gel cell. I am using a 969pro, and I like it. I charge my tx/rx/glo-ignitor, &gel cell on mine. But alot of people dont like it. If you cant afford a charger in say the $100 range. take a std car turn signal bulb (whats the number here..9011? 9066?) anyway, you know what I mean. and solder a lead to that to plug your reciever pack into. let it discharge own until it gets really dim, then repeak it on 0.5 or 1.0 amp, do this a couple times and see where your rx pack is peaking at. my guess this is your problem. If not whats the worst that can happen??? you come out with a decent peak charger or better.

fearlessone

07-19-2005, 05:07 PM

JamminJay

07-19-2005, 05:14 PM

This one works wonderful. I've been using it to charge my receiver batts for years now. I also charge my glow ignitor with it. I hit peak charge then after its done, it does into trickle charge and I just let it sit like that overnight.
I like this charger cause its made just for radio batts. and such. Totally easy to use too. Just push the button. No false peaks either!

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/350370.asp

Isnt this almost the same thing? Only digital, and less money?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL357&P=ML

I was gonna buy one, but still takes over night, not too good for a fast charge at the track if needed. Otherwise, if you don't race, or always prepare the night before you go to run...then I guess it's ok.

jmangler1

07-19-2005, 05:34 PM

I do think this is my batt. problem. I will invest in a new charger! How is the purple one I think its called MC Superbrain 959. Its at me LHS...

fearlessone

07-19-2005, 05:57 PM

Isnt this almost the same thing? Only digital, and less money?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL357&P=ML

I was gonna buy one, but still takes over night, not too good for a fast charge at the track if needed. Otherwise, if you don't race, or always prepare the night before you go to run...then I guess it's ok.

No mines way better for $30 more. AC/DC, 500-1000 charge rate. Mine is also digital.

jmangler1

07-19-2005, 06:06 PM

Cool thanks for letting me know! I need to get schooled on the whole process of charging and discharging batteries! I will have to read the manual when I get the charger and hopefully that will break down all the processes and what they do for me.

Thanks
Jay
&
Fear!

nigru

07-19-2005, 06:22 PM

Hi guys, I have just bought a new V-spec engine and also a duratrax tempreture reader. But i have problem. What is the best tempreture for this engine? What is the maximum tempreture? thanks

xring01

07-19-2005, 06:39 PM

I have the vspec in my jammin.

it has incredible power, currently running about 225F.

fearlessone

07-19-2005, 07:04 PM

I keep hearing those engines have bad bearings. :confused: Some, as soon as they get them, they take it apart and replace them with different bearings. I dont know what brand bearings but i'd check in the engine forum to see.

jmangler1

07-19-2005, 07:33 PM

Nigru,
I run mine at around 250. At the end of my tanks she's @ 270.

Fear,
I heard that when they first came out, but I have 2 of them with a few gallons threw them and no problems! The motor has insane power! Its hard to drive if you dont have good throttle control! It has crazy bottom end, balistic mid range, and great bottom end! Just cant beat it! I have a JP modded M2K and I think the V-spec is a stronger motor without a doubt. Just my opinion! Remember the V-spec is balistic stock! When modded I here nothing can touch it. I want to get a new piston and sleeve for my back up one and send it to RB to get modded so I can see for myself if its as sick as they are saying. Hard to imagine it getting much better than it is.

dgrobe2112

07-19-2005, 07:51 PM

there are still issues with the engine.. OS rocket is pinching alot of them.. people saying they only get through breaking.. and thats it.. i will find the post where he said it.. but the engine should run around 220-240.. depending on where you race at.. dont worry bout temps too much.. that is a common mis conception with temp guages.. what i would do is tune it to performance.. then temp it.. and use that as a base setting.. then.. when your at a big race.. just simply ask anyone with an exergen to temp it.. and then you temp right after.. and compare the 2...

check out the new products on the racers edge website for the MP777

www.racers-edge.com new chassis braces.. and stuff.. pretty slick.. especially for you guys with the carbon hopups..

BTW.. this is the charger in my box.. that i currently use..
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=ML

JamminJay

07-19-2005, 08:37 PM

DG, I was gonna recommend that charger. It's awesome for the price. Digital, saved settings, all the features you need, except, no discharge. What do you do to conquer this?

jmangler1

07-19-2005, 09:01 PM

I heard that your lucky to get 2 gallons out of them but their is about 6 or 7 guy's Bugg's and Trugg's currently running them at my track with no issues yet. The only issue I had was with my first one which I think I sucked dirt ,but it could be what your saying. I seen alittle sludge in my airfilter neck and thought I sucked dirt but not sure. I tried to tune it be it was so inconsistant and just wouldn't hold a tune.

Oh yea, thier was one guy who got his motor broken in on a break-in bench at his LHS and when he put it in his bug it just ran like **** and we couldn't tune it. The owner of the LHS gave him a new on and sent it back to OS. I though it was just a defective motor...

I heard OS is supposed to be comming out with another line of motors supossively better performing than the VZB. Dont kow if it true or not ,but this guy said Mugen droped JP and picked up OS so they going to develope some kick A$$ motors. Like I said I dont know if its true ,but it is comming from a RB sponserd racer.

dgrobe2112

07-19-2005, 09:13 PM

i have a light, single bulb discharge that i soldered a female plug to.. and when the battery plugs it.. it runs the light.. you may want to use 2 bulbs.. but i just use one..

JamminJay

07-19-2005, 11:53 PM

Wow.. sometimes I do know stuff I talk about. Hahahahahahaha :D

xring01

07-20-2005, 11:26 AM

The reason I bought my Vspec is due to an ex pro (tim) who owns a hobby store. He is just getting back into Pro racing and has sponsors out the waaazuuuu.

He buys the OS Vspec, the last own he had, had over 10 gallons of fuel through before he gave it to a kid who could not afford one. When I say gave it, it was a Jammin with the Vspec and Airtronics servos....

The reason he gave it away is due to the fact that it flamed out twice in one race. (After 10 gallons). The Kid, replaced the Glow plug and is running that car as we speak..

Tim is now running the Hyper 7 with a OS Vspec.

They may have had QA issues in the past, but it appears that OS is building them right today.

jmangler1

07-20-2005, 03:16 PM

Good to hear other people haveing sucess with it also!

nigru

07-20-2005, 06:14 PM

Thanks for your help about the tempreture. I asked about tempreture just to know if am not keeping it well because this is the secind vspec i ve bought. The engine after about 5 gallons, the rear bearing went into pieces and to replace the bearing, it costs more than 100 us dollars which su""s!! I also heard about the bad bearing but when it has no problems, this engine i way too strong compared to other engines for sure!! Another question, which fuel do you prefere one with castor oil, or one with synthetic oil??

dgrobe2112

07-20-2005, 07:36 PM

castor oil.. personally.. also.. 100 bux.. for bearings.. www.amainhobbies.com has the bearings for cheap.. the rear bearing is only 25 bux or something..

AreCee

07-21-2005, 05:05 PM

Wow, I just found a problem in my 777, the front universal's pin backed out. I peened it back into place but not sure how long it'll stay there.

Anyone else ever have a problem with this?

jmangler1

07-21-2005, 05:05 PM

Hey guys when is that truggy kit comming out? I'm getting the itch for a bigblock 777 SP1 Truggy!!!!! Would love to have a bug and a trug!!

What the deal with that Native Raceing Tamahawk Suspension Kit? It looks really sweet! This that would be better than the on that MSR is comming out with??

JamminJay

07-21-2005, 05:40 PM

dgrobe2112

07-21-2005, 05:51 PM

jman.. personally.. i dont like the native conversion.. the mugen conversion i personally think would be better.. however.. i would not do the mugen conversion.. cuz i dont want the long chassis..

If you want to do the truggy conversion.. you can get the hotbodies LSP front and rear diffs.. with pinions.. or just the ring and pinion gears.. use stock center diff gear from your car.. or get a 48t spur gear.. get the wheel extenders.. amnd get the body mounts from the MSR conversion.. and your set..

jmangler1

07-21-2005, 06:26 PM

ExtremeDuty

07-21-2005, 09:01 PM

What about the shock towers and shock? Dont they change them also. I had a LSP and it ran good but I just wasnt impressed with the Quility of the build... Would much rather do a Kypsho truggy!

RC Car action's Nitro magazine had an article on Truggy conversion for MP777. The article is available on-line. Go to www.rccaraction.com and do a search.

jmangler1

07-22-2005, 05:45 AM

Etrem, I couldn't find it. I did a search and it would not come up!

AreCee

07-22-2005, 09:59 AM

AreCee-
A few pages back you will read where mine came out in the rear. It was the first day i had it out during break in...not even 2 tanks. but mine cae fully out, and i didnt know until i realized the tire spnning freely. the shaft was gone and the pin. All I had left was the axle part. I ended up finding the shaft oin my driveway, but never found the pin.
It was so strange because I've been using Kyoshos since the 80s and never had one fail like this, broken or bent yes but never had a pin back out. Well, I peened it back in place and will use it as a spare.

Now I know what you were talking about.

JamminJay

07-22-2005, 11:50 AM

Yea I found it rather odd & kinda disturbing lol. Either wait for a new one...or I just put a dog bone in until i could pick one up a couple weeks later. looked kinda funny, bone on one side, Uni on the other.

ExtremeDuty

07-22-2005, 11:53 AM

Etrem, I couldn't find it. I did a search and it would not come up!

Here is the link. I forgot that RC Car action & RC Nitro web sites are not connected.

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/truggy_conv.asp

ExtremeDuty

07-22-2005, 11:55 AM

It was so strange because I've been using Kyoshos since the 80s and never had one fail like this, broken or bent yes but never had a pin back out. Well, I peened it back in place and will use it as a spare.

Now I know what you were talking about.

Mine haven't shown any problem yet, but why don't you try to insert rolled pin in place of the loose pin? You can get various metric sized rolled pins from mail order hardware stores.

JamminJay

07-22-2005, 12:02 PM

Ok thats it.. you posted 3 minutes after me and I had to comeback and check....then you did it again 2 minutes later and I had to come back and check lol. hehehehehe.

RDucky02

07-22-2005, 02:26 PM

looking into getting into 1/8th scale racing. in about 3 months my local track will be opening up again and from what i hear the racers there are going to be extremly quick because the track is going to be drawing huge attention; what the on site hobby store said is some pro's might even run there. sounds awesome. ive been in the outlaw nitro truck racing for about 2 years and before that about 10 years of nitro truck and eletric truck racing.

i plan on continuing to race in the outlaw class but ild like to get started in 1/8th scale racing. my first nitro car was actually a Ofna 1/8th scale and i had no idea what i was doing. now im looking to get back into it.

wondering what kind of track your running on and what kinda engine your using.... also, any immediate changes i need to make to the buggy (problem areas) before i even take it to the track once?

jmangler1

07-22-2005, 04:05 PM

Hey I run a V-spec and love it. Alot of guys are running P5's also. Cant go wrong either way! I changed nothing on the bug it is awsome! Other than tuneing your suspension/diffs for your track thats about it! This bug is the most durable bug I have ever owned. It steers soooo good I love it! I just sold my Prospec and my TTR S3, and bought this, and I must say I like the way this kit drives way better! The Prospec was a very nice looking kit though! I think its one of the best looking! The TTR S3 was very nice also. I think the TTR S3 was the quickest out of the hole! All the diffs are perfectly aligened and not off set so, I think that is the difference to the extra smooth and fast acceleration it has! Good luck with your new bug !

dgrobe2112

07-22-2005, 04:13 PM

rducky.. if you wait another month or so.. i think they will have the MP777 SP2 available.. which has everything you need.. all the hopups you could ask for..

Engine wise.. i personally run a Top P5.. best engine i have ever owned by far.. and easy to tune.. only thing i did.. which i do to all motors.. order some Racers Choice Air Seal.. and seal the back plate and the Carb.. thats it..

tires.. well.. gotta run what the local fast guys are running..

use 30% fuel.. more performance.. than 20%.. and just as long a life span on the engine.. im sure you know that..

Always good setup info online.. here.. and other forums.. cant beat the car.. however.. im a kyosho guy.. im sure mugen guys.. will say get the mugen.. and so on.. plain and simple.. since the release of the MP777..
2005 National Champ, and runner up.. and 4th in nats.. 3 of the top 5 i beleive..
its winning all the races.. a couple misses here and there.. but not many..

Good luck with your choice.. and have fun..

JamminJay

07-22-2005, 08:08 PM

Well I must agree with the others, finds the set-up that works for your track... the from there its just tires.
I would also have to put my vote in for the P5... Altho Jman, said the Vspec, he also said the P5.. so thats the majority, and majority rules hahahaha.
But seriously, all joking aside, I think the most common combination is the P5 in the buggy, and I love mine, DG loves his, I think it's KD that also has one?? Their just great. :D

chxdigmyrevo

07-23-2005, 12:43 PM

I am serioulsy thinking about buying the SP2. My only concern with it is, the track that I race on is very small, and very bumpy. I heard the the SP1 comes with the TCD in the front. Will the Sp2 feature that? If how can I make it a regualr diff just like the rear?

Thanks!

Mika

07-23-2005, 01:42 PM

I was running in the REX SB01 today, feels like a nice engine. Plenty of power even for big jumbs and nice consistent driving. I can recommend that especially novice racers.
BTW, did you check this out already http://www.rc411.com/video/other/bgycagematch.mov

For SP2, check out this http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products/car_bike/buggy/inferno_mp777/mp777sp2/mp777sp2-e.html
It describes most differences, so based on that I assume it will have similar diffs that SP1 has i.e. TCD in front.

dgrobe2112

07-25-2005, 12:16 PM

in order to make the front LSD diff a regular diff.. gotta buy all the internal gears.. and that should be it..

kmorast

07-25-2005, 05:28 PM

Use your owners manual to find all the part #'s, the front standard diff is exactly the same as the rear diff. You will need to change the spider gears along with their shafts.

dgrobe2112

07-29-2005, 11:26 AM

(chirp, chirp) sound of crickets chirping.. hahaha.. so.. the new SP2 is coming soon.. anyone gonna get one?? i am gonna get the updated shock shafts.. and thats pretty much it.. and the springs too.. but i got my car pretty dialed right now.. no need to get a new conversion kit.. :)

JamminJay

07-29-2005, 12:37 PM

That's how i feel. Alot of people have asked me if I was gonna buy the upgrade or the new kit. I am pretty happy with mine right now. Best buggy I have owned yet. So you know what they say.... "if it aint broke, don't fix it." :D

dgrobe2112

07-29-2005, 12:51 PM

i agree.. however.. the rear shock shafts being longer.. will give more down travel which is needed with the car.. and the new springs.. are needed as well..

JamminJay

07-29-2005, 01:46 PM

I see, are the new springs longer then? I am using Xray XB8 springs, I have the lt blue soft set, and the drk blue heavier set. But I think they are close to the same length.

dgrobe2112

07-29-2005, 01:52 PM

yes..the new springs are longer...

jmangler1

07-29-2005, 04:22 PM

I will be buying a SP2 when its is out and converting my SP1 into a truggy! Does anyone know when MSR is comming out with the truggy conversion? I want to build a truggy really BAD! I dont like JT kits. I like the MSR kit for the Mugen! My buddy has one and it is sweeeet! I know I heard somewhere that they are comming out with one but not sure when.

dgrobe2112

07-29-2005, 04:29 PM

here is a link of the stuff needed to make your buggy into a truggy..

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/truggy_conv.asp

jmangler1

07-29-2005, 04:37 PM

I seen that in a earlier post thanks! The only thing with that is you dont get a longer chassis. I had a Hot Bodies LSP and the longer chassis made that thing handle lie a dream!

jmangler1

07-30-2005, 06:44 AM

Ok, I'm debating on another motor and dont know which one to get. If anyone has tried either one of these I would love your feedback on which one performed better! I would like to get either a Rossi Black Magic .21 or a RB modded C5 .21. I would like to hear all your opinions! Even if you didnt have one but saw one run! Im leaning towards the C5 because my buddy has one and it runs good, but I hear that the Black Majic is sick also, though I never saw one run.

bsodmike

07-31-2005, 05:07 AM

It has finally made it on eBay and there is a free iPod on offer as well :)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5989788574&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

:D

And the Novarossi P5 Engine: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5989790222&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

Couple other items will be added this week such as the Vantage pipe and a few other pieces.

dgrobe2112

07-31-2005, 07:01 PM

jman.. the C5 motor is ballistic.. i drove one.. and that thing was so fast.. tons of bottom.. and top.. i would personally get that..

jmangler1

07-31-2005, 07:12 PM

DG, Thanks for the info! I ordered it last night! Cant wait to get it, I have 2 V-specs, now that I have ordered the RB Modded C5 I will sell 1 of the V-specs.

jmangler1

07-31-2005, 09:56 PM

I got my bug handleing really good but I know it can be better. So I was going over it to see what I can do to make this thing handle like its on rails and I notice I never set my droop screw in my A-arms! I bet that will make a difference! Right now my a arms will fully extend. I was thinking of going parallel in the front and a little above parallel in the rear. How are some of you guys running your arms?

dgrobe2112

07-31-2005, 10:02 PM

i run the front with full droop.. however.. in the rear.. i set the screw so that it touches the chassis right when the shocks bottom out..

my ride height is set just the opposite.. just above level in front.. and level in rear..

also.. something that i did.. was started running more negative camber in the rear.. im running -3.5 in the rear.. and it really works good in the high speed corners.. carries alot of speed through them now..

jmangler1

07-31-2005, 10:31 PM

Good to know I will have to try it out. My bug just seems alittle bouncy in the rear. Need to make it more forgiveing. I drove my 2 of buddies bug's and each one was still alot easier to drive than mine. I can still beat them ,but when I seen how easy it was to drive theirs it bothered me because I would be alot faster if I drove their bugs. I have 60wt in front and 40 on the rear right now. I might try 40 in the fron and 35 in the rear. My buddies xray has 35 all around and I drove it and its was dialed! I could put it where ever I wanted!

fearlessone

08-01-2005, 12:32 PM

you getting bounce is the rear mostly i'm sure. Try 35 in rear. The heavier the oil the more bounce.

jmangler1

08-01-2005, 09:12 PM

I will give it a shot!

dgrobe2112

08-02-2005, 05:46 PM

from a guy on Sgrid.. about the SP2

by Mike McCrary on Mon Aug 1 15:18:45 2005:

I am very very impressed with the car so far. I ran on an
indoor fairly smooth track. First few runs the track had good
traction and the rear was too planted. The traction was incredible.
If the track had remained high bite I would have changed to a 2 degree
toe plate. The rear was so planted it takes away steering! After the
first qual the track dried out. Second qaul the car felt better then
any car "out of the box" to date(I have tried quite a few this year).
The car had tons of steering(more than the sp1) and was very stable.
I had so much traction that my soft K2's did'nt get much wear.

by Matt Windell on Mon Aug 1 13:28:08 2005:

Driving impressions: I took the car to the North Pro Series Round 3
which was on a loose rutted track with no major jumps. The loose and
rough conditions were an ideal test site for the new, longer car. I
only ran two tanks in practice which meant no setup changes. I ran
5,7,1 in the diffs as I did with SP1. I ran the middle hole in the
caster blocks and did try the upper and lower holes in the rear camber
link. Those has the same effect as the SP1. The high holes made the
car more predictable and stable on power. I was out of 60wt shock oil
so I tried 50 in the front and 40 in the rear. The track was tight in
spots so I thought the thinner oil in front would be okay.

The car is more planted in the rear than the old one. It exhibits less
donkey kicking over rough parts of the track and when landing jumps.
You can push it harder without wrecking. The car still handles a lot
like the SP1 though. You lose a little steering I think. The SP2 does
not punish you as much for mistakes though, and you can save it easier
when the rear end steps out. I need to spend a day working on setup
because I think it may need to be slightly different that the SP1. If
you really like your SP1 you should think about getting the new
springs when they are released. I think they are a lot better than the
old ones.

I also forgot to mention that the outer hinge pins are now polished
and much smoother than the old black coated ones.

jmangler1

08-02-2005, 06:07 PM

Souds like its going to sweet!

Mika

08-03-2005, 01:27 AM

Thanks for the info! My fellow driver is getting one today (and I'm getting the update within a week). He will drive it on Saturday.

dgrobe2112

08-03-2005, 10:32 AM

would like to get the part numbers for the new rear shock shafts, and the new springs..

Mika

08-04-2005, 11:02 AM

Forgot to mention the SP2 comes with a regular diff in front with 5K oil

windellmc

08-05-2005, 04:26 PM

Actually the kit setup on diffs is 4k front, 6k center, and 1k rear. They are all standard diffs though.

jmangler1

08-05-2005, 04:54 PM

Has the SP2 been released yet? Oh yea and what about the MSR truggy kit?

dgrobe2112

08-05-2005, 05:06 PM

jmangler1

08-05-2005, 05:37 PM

That sounds like a sweet deal! I can wait till this truggy kit comes out! I know their are other kits but I like the MSR kit because of the extended chassis!

fearlessone

08-05-2005, 06:58 PM

Lets see if you guys can answer me this one,

I'm about done putting the 777 SP-1 together. But what I notice is
that where the 17mm inner hex is ( the one the pin goes through),
as it sits on the CVD, theres a gap ( SLOP) in-between the HEX and the wheel bearing. The instructions say nothing about putting shims in there.
But if you dont, with the wheel on or off, you can move it back and forth by hand. I'm not just talkin a 1mm. I say about 3mm. I also notice in the kit, theres plastic washers that fit over the CVD's perfectly. But they are alittle to thick to allow me to put the pin back through the HEX. So what the HECK?

I used to have a hyper7 and I never had that problem on it.

Mika

08-06-2005, 11:38 AM

At least I'm not aware of such a problem.

uaerc

08-06-2005, 01:22 PM

Jman.. the SP2's are on the way.. i know my LHS is getting a SP2 instock next week.. the thing is.. Kyosho America still has SP1 buggies in stock, what they are doing.. is providing SP1's with SP2 conversions.. i think and the same price as the SP1. So, you get the SP1 kit.. and then the SP2 conversion extra.. so you get extra parts.. like springs.. and chassis.. and towers.. and stuff.. as far as i know..

Also.. i dont think the MSR conversion is out yet..

I think this is all over policy now..... they are selling the SP1 with the SP2 conversion even in HK.. I asked them that could i buy a SP2 Conversion kit and SP2 Kit...Since I already had a SP1 so could keep one spare...etc. But - Hey they dont sell the SP2 conversion at all........I think they should just sell the conversion kit for the guys who have the SP1....its not fair if this is a policy.

ZiiZO

fearlessone

08-06-2005, 02:28 PM

all 4 wheels are like that. No way am I going to run with them like
that. I'll go buy some washers the right size if I have too and stick in there.

dgrobe2112

08-06-2005, 08:55 PM

fear.. the manual says to use the shims if there is slop.. the kit comes with some shims... to put in there.. use those.. and you should be fine..

fearlessone

08-07-2005, 01:22 AM

no, the manual does not say that. Page 10, Center of page. Assembly of rear blocks. The only sentence there is, "Wheel base adjustments can be made by using other spacers (36)". It points to part (36), which is a spacer that goes on the a-arm hinge pin.

And on page 13. Its the assembly of the front knuckles. Again, says nothing.

No mention of spacers in the parts "needed" area either.

This is from the SP-1 manual.

J_Bone

08-07-2005, 07:11 AM

I have noticed a bit of slop in mine too. I don't recall the manual stating to insert a shim. But I could have skipped it. :confused:
I was curious about the gap in the front upper a-arm.

Mika

08-07-2005, 07:24 AM

Some slop here and there, does not affect driving nor the car taking the beating. Just put your servo saver tight enough...

fearlessone

08-07-2005, 11:14 AM

I have noticed a bit of slop in mine too. I don't recall the manual stating to insert a shim. But I could have skipped it. :confused:
I was curious about the gap in the front upper a-arm.

Oh yeah, there is a space or slop in the front top A-arm also like you said.
Again, instructions say nothing about putting anything there. So I just put
my own washers in there. I was lucky enough to have two washers that were
a perfect fit. I put them in front of the A-arm, so it holds the arm back.
This would be a must. You do not want space in your A-arms! Just make sure they dont bind from being too tight. One washer on each pin should do it.

dgrobe2112

08-07-2005, 11:42 AM

ngo8

08-07-2005, 05:55 PM

J_Bone

08-07-2005, 06:01 PM

hey guys i am having a little toruble over the really bumpy stuff where my friends mugen sucks them up real good i am running 50/30 F/R the shock in front all the way in and the back all the way out we run on dirt the first 2 heats is very loose and loamy but 3rd and 4th heat its hard packed and there is alot of ruts and its rough how can i make the car suck up the ruts a little beter any help would be great thanks.

What part is bouncing? I run mine all the way in on both top and bottom/ftont and rear.
I was running 60/40 oil in mine. I went with a 50/50 and will try it soon. I might run 50/45 or 50/40.
Also you can lower the anti squat to 2 degrees. How about the sway bars? I 'm running mine at the very end.
Also the front upper blocks?? Try using a differnet roll center. Higher or lower.

ngo8

08-07-2005, 06:31 PM

one more question is how do you get rid of of power push and well the back is bouncy overall the car just doesnt suck up the ruts as good .

jmangler1

08-07-2005, 06:38 PM

I had that same problem! I changed my shock oils to 50 front 35 rear and set my rear droop at parallel and now its pritty dialed in! I used to have a lot of bounce in the rear and now its all gone! I can rip right through the rough stuff! It was raining on and off all day and my rear end was soo planted it would almost wheelie when on the power comming out of a turn. There was soo much tracking today. I think my set-up is great though becasue on the norm the tracke is really loose and dusty. The tires I ran were hooking up like crazy today!

jmangler1

08-07-2005, 06:40 PM

one more question is how do you get rid of of power push and well the back is bouncy overall the car just doesnt suck up the ruts as good .

What diff fluids you running. 1000 is great in mine it will turn on a dime. I had 3000 in their and it would push.

ngo8

08-07-2005, 07:07 PM

What diff fluids you running. 1000 is great in mine it will turn on a dime. I had 3000 in their and it would push.
i have 1000 in the rear and 7000 in the middle and the tcd diff int the front i was thinking os putting 35 in the rear i will try that for sure .

dgrobe2112

08-07-2005, 07:54 PM

you can do different things to get rid on power push.. first.. i would try to get a regular diff in the front.. the LSD will give excellent turn in.. get a standard diff.. and run 3-5k in the front.. i run 4k..

Also.. you can go down in the rear toe block.. 2.5 is what i am running right now.. and also.. prolly what you allready have.. put the 22 degree hubs in the front..

dgrobe2112

08-07-2005, 07:57 PM

BTW.. allow the rear to run full droop.. that should help some in the rough stuff.. i currently run 35 in the rear.. i have noticed the same thing.. mugen gets through the rough stuff so much better.. i think the new springs that kyosho has will help with that.. right now.. the current springs.. especially in the rear are tooooo short.. the new longer springs will work alot better.. the springs now.. being too short.. they dont cushion enough..

ngo8

08-07-2005, 08:23 PM

fearlessone

08-07-2005, 09:01 PM

ok.. i found it.. its not where you would think it would be.. i had to look for a while to find it.. on page 26, where it shows you to put on the wheels.. here is a note there.. that says..

in case of vibration insert a 8.12 shim

in my manual its instuction # 46

ahhhhhhhhh... I see. I didnt even read that page since it was about installing tires.
They need that one the other page. :cool:

Mika

08-08-2005, 02:34 AM

guys here tested the SP2 on the weekend and they loved it.. no bouncing at the rear, jumps even better and still has lot of steering (even more)..can't wait

Motorman007

08-08-2005, 10:34 AM

guys here tested the SP2 on the weekend and they loved it.. no bouncing at the rear, jumps even better and still has lot of steering (even more)..can't wait

any more info beside this Mika?

did the rear stay planted and could you get on the gas faster coming out of the turns and the ass will not come around on you.

also do you need that weight in the back still? the 21g?

thanx for the info

Dibs

dgrobe2112

08-08-2005, 11:47 AM

dibbs.. my 777 is very planted.. actually has a push to it..

ngo8

08-08-2005, 01:38 PM

i guess my sp1 is not the only one whos rear end kicks out does this happen to everyone?

Motorman007

08-08-2005, 02:00 PM

only when i pull too much with that spec. lol

but on the real i drove a buggy all day friday that had the long 9 mm chassis and it was something to get use too.

and we ran Q's after Q's mines and his the time don't lie.

best before chassis 35 -36- and on

new long fioroni chassis the UT-90

33-34 everytime.

him behind the wheel

me 35-6 sp1

his buggy 33.8-35 crazy

i hope my sp2 work as good.

Pro race is going to be fun.

Mika

08-08-2005, 03:14 PM

yeah, actually what guys said (wasn't on the track myself) was that you can step on gas much faster after turns and the car stays planted.. they were able to improve lap times quite a bit with SP2 .. (and C5 with 15T bell on...) easier to drive because it won't fell over due to the improved rear end .. something like that but most importantly very happy the way the car handles now .. heard nothing bad of it, the opposite.. guys with SP1 and WS7II could not challenge this car ... they even said it jumps better, too, which was a surprise, and still turns strong

edit: some closeups of the sp2 here (http://koti.mbnet.fi/tux10/pete_mp777/sp2/) (just click the links)