Inferno MP777

[dgrobe2112]

scratch that.. they said.. like 209 or something..

[fearlessone]

I'll pass. My SP-1 will be fine.

[jmangler1]

scratch that.. they said.. like 209 or something..


He DG, Is the conversion up on the site yet? I tried looking for it and couldn't find it.... I think that will make a big difference!

[Motorman007]

$118 japan with shipping..

[Motorman007]

you always have to call them man.

[dgrobe2112]

jman.. gotta call ultimate.. they give the best deals over the phone..

Dibbs.. you got them for 118 in japan?? where at?

[dgrobe2112]

dibbs.. you really think the conversion makes the car that much better?? my car is good right now.. i remember my 7.5 didnt turn for crap.. maybe i didnt know how to set it up then.. who knows..

[Motorman007]

i know that ut 90 chassis was hooked look like a long 18 wheeler.

but i hope the this sp2 kit will do just that but better.


champ_international@yahoo.co.jp


Best regards,
RC Adviser Champ
Hirotaka Suganuma


D times don't lie is all i can say.


my 7.5 always could turn.

i cut a lot of stuff out to get it but i work super. b.c the 7.5 and mp 6 pushed bad but good bad easier to drive that's why people ran kyosho back in the day. mugen at that time had to much set up stuff f up.

where as the kyosho was good for first time drivers and really any set up would work.

where the 777 is like the old mugen with more killer steering but like the old mugen the rear end was not planted so you drove it hard in the turns and just gas it every where. lol


777 takes more time to set up but once you have it is Butter. and you have to change your driving style for sure.


get one D.. before the Pro race it can only help...

if this dones not work i will get that long long chassis cause i know it works i drove and my times don't lie

[Motorman007]

dibbs.. you really think the conversion makes the car that much better?? my car is good right now.. i remember my 7.5 didnt turn for crap.. maybe i didnt know how to set it up then.. who knows..



what mika said here

(((yeah, actually what guys said (wasn't on the track myself) was that you can step on gas much faster after turns and the car stays planted..))

with your set up try as soon as you turn get on the gas asap and see how your ass will just come around on you super fast. you loose to much corner speed like that. i try all kind of stuff friday ran a full GAL on a club motor

i ran 8 round on the clock change after change started out 41-45

ended 34.8-36 never water the track only thing i could not do was get on the gas asap once i was at the top of a apex..

but with his long long chassis i could. it was just crazy i had to learn a new driver style that is for sure..

[J_Bone]

I don't have the rear end problems you guys are describing. Mine was just a bit harsh on the bumps and ruts. Ill test it with the thinner Shock oil this weekend... :p

[jmangler1]

Hey guy's, have any of you tried running prospec shocks all around. Mine need a rebuild and I was going to give it a shot...

[dgrobe2112]

to run mugen shocks?? i have not done that.. it would make the handling of the car a ton different.. who knows..

Kyosho MP777 SP1 with SP2 conversion kit, 650 plus shipping.. 254-666-8020

[kmorast]

where is the SP2 available or when is it going to be available?.

[dgrobe2112]

they dont have the SP2 available yet.. Kyosho America is selling all their SP1 kits currently with the SP2 conversion.. included.. my hobby shop has one.. in stock.. with the conversion kit.. complete new SP1.. with the SP2 conversion..

[kmorast]

Thanks I just ordered the Fioroni sp2 chassis instead.

[jmangler1]

kmorast, Where did you order your Fioroni Sp2 chassis from?

[kmorast]

kmorast, Where did you order your Fioroni Sp2 chassis from?

I found the chassis at http://www.rc-nation.com/products.php?id=73
It's part # ot-ur70 just make sure and choose the sp2 version where it says select. It can also be found at the gs racing website but it's a little more expensive.

[jmangler1]

Thanks man! What about the longer center shaft to the rear diff..... are the shocks availible yet...

[kmorast]

Thanks man! What about the longer center shaft to the rear diff..... are the shocks availible yet...
I'm hoping I will be able to use spacers on the SP1 shaft in order to reach the center diff correctly. I haven't looked into the shocks, but I will soon. I mainly wanted to get the chassis since it will make a big difference in rear traction.

[jmangler1]

Thats a lot to make up with spacers... Let me know how you make out!

[jmangler1]

Huy guys, got a question on my shocks... 2 of my shocks my front right and rear right are leaking out of the bleeder holes up top on the shock caps what causes that and also I took my rear shock apart and my bladder was actually inside the shock body, it came off the cap, dont know how?? I took the front one apart and it was fine just the fluid leaked out of the bleeder hole up on the cap.. I guess I have to replace it(rear bladder)... I'm not a pro on rebuilding shocks/ I never have.. Are they typical signs of blown shocks...

[dgrobe2112]

jman.. sounds like you got some torn bladders in the front as well.. some people have had that problem.. i never have.. alot of guys use some special bladder thing.. i dont know how to do it.. and others use mugen bladders.. i have never had trouble with mine... replace the bladders.. if you dont have oil at the bottom of the shock..then you dont need to rebuild them.. just get new bladders.. replace the oil..and tighten the cap hand tight..

[jmangler1]

OK Dg, have bladders I will replace them. Maby I'm making them too tight.... I try to really crank on them but only with my hands...

[Little_Horn]

I'm hoping I will be able to use spacers on the SP1 shaft in order to reach the center diff correctly. I haven't looked into the shocks, but I will soon. I mainly wanted to get the chassis since it will make a big difference in rear traction.

You don't need to do that.
There is one center universal from the mp 7.5 that is exactly the same as the new sp2 center shafts (both, front and rear sp2 shafts, are the same).
I just don't remember which one is it.
Try to look for it.

[kmorast]

You don't need to do that.
There is one center universal from the mp 7.5 that is exactly the same as the new sp2 center shafts (both, front and rear sp2 shafts, are the same).
I just don't remember which one is it.
Try to look for it.
Does anybody else know the part # of the correct center shaft. The SP1 front center shaft is 83mm long the rear is 93mm long. The SP2 has 91mm front and rear. The instruction manuals for the 7.5's do not give length however part#'s are front IFW-13 and the rear is IFW-45.

[Mika]

I get my SP2 tomorrow I can check part numbers (assuming there's a manual along)
I also got this one yesterday (besides my C5)
http://www.snrt.net/BK21evo/BK21_1.jpg

[Little_Horn]

The SP2 center shaft part number is different. But I'm sure that one of the center shafts from the 7.5 is exactly the same.
I saw this with my own eyes. I compared them both side by side.
As I said before I don't remember the part number, but I think that's ifw45. But once again I say, I'm not sure. I might be wrong about the part number.

[jmangler1]

Mika, nice motor it looks really sweet! I wonder if it runs as good as it looks.. You gotta post pic's of that SP2 when completed!

[dgrobe2112]

well, i seen the SP2 conversion.. today in person.. and there really isnt much that i see different..

1st thing.. the radio tray is the same.. different blue, and countersunk screws.. however.. it is not longer.. or anything like that.. they moved it back..

the motor, center diff, radio tray, fuel tank.. everything from the servo saver back.. is moved back.. like 1.5-2mm... i dont have a exact measurement..

The motor, center diff, servo and radio box.. is moved farther back.. like 4mm.. however.. the rear shock tower adn arms and everything are not moved that far back..

You could literally move the rear arms up.. and they almost hit the exhaust manifold..

I like the new shock towers.. they are sweet.. the rear shock shafts, are a little longer.. you almost get full droop..

The new rear springs are longer.. and not as many coils as the current blue ones.. they are the same diameter around as the current springs..

[jmangler1]

The chassis is longre right....

[dgrobe2112]

yes,, like 2mm or so.. not the 4

[Mika]

Here....
http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/package.jpg

Part numbers in case you want go for separate parts instead of the whole kit
http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/parts_list.jpg

Bigger resolution here (http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/parts.jpg)

[jmangler1]

Nice!

Here....
http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/package.jpg

Part numbers in case you want go for separate parts instead of the whole kit
http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/parts_list.jpg

Bigger resolution here (http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/parts.jpg)

[kmorast]

I just found out the center shaft IFW45 is about 92mm long. So it will work with the SP2 chassis if you don't want to do the entire upgrade or can't get the upgrade.

[dgrobe2112]

i will be parting a upgrade kit together.. theres alot in that kit that is not needed.. hinge pins.. air cleaner.. shock towers.. turnbuckles.. i am gonna get a chassis.. get the longer rear shafts, and the springs...

[kmorast]

That's what I'm doing, I have everything I want but the longer rear shock shafts and the springs.

[Mika]

That's one way to do it.. but at least here the chassis alone is almost half the price of the upgrade kit so it does not really make sence.. new towers are cool by the way plus all the rest of the parts... Of course you decide. I went for the whole upgrade kit cause it's simpler that way but also wanted to scan you the parts list in case you decide to go for separate parts...

[kmorast]

How much is the SP2 upgrade kit going for and where can one be purchased??

[AreCee]

Nitrohouse is selling the conversion kit for $279.99.

Give Ultimate Hobby a call to see what their price is because they don't list their selling price on the internet.

[isseym88]

have a couple of question to those of you who have knowledge of the new conversion kit for the special 2.

1. Is the new front and rear shock tower for the mp 777 sp2, where all the holes are located for suspension setting the same as the mp777 sp1 ?

2. would buying the new front and rear shock tower give you a different in suspension settings and options

I have already a fioroni mp777 sp1 shock towers if the new shock tower are merely a beefed up version or stronger version of the old one then I would need to buy it..

3 The new hinge pins 4x74 , 3x47, 3x38 , 6.5x26mm all looks to me the same as the MP777 special 1's ? Why are they included in the conversion kit since they dont change the front lower suspension arm.

Or are the suspension Arm in MP777 sp1 and Sp2 different.

I notice the arm part numbers are different?

mp777 sp1 mp777 sp2

front lower suspension arm IF301 IF330

read lower suspension arm IF302 IF331


4. The new MP777 SP2 rear shock shaft for the rear IF337 is said to be of Length 66mm
(Mp777 sp2 parts catalog available from kyosho jp website).

it is therefore longer than the mp777 sp1 rear shock shaft 61mm.

However, they didnt include the shock case to accomodate the longer suspension in the conversion kit. Are the shock case for the rear suspension remain the same as the mp777 sp1?


If so why is the part number for the rear shock case different?
mp777 sp1 mp777 sp2
rear shock case IF149-01 IF326-01


All the part number and reference are derived from the Kyosho Mp777 Sp1 manual, Spare parts list, exploded view and also the Kyosho MP777 SP2 manual, Spare parts list and exploded view downloadable from www.kyosho.co.jp just click on the link for download on the homepage.

They dun however has the SP1 informtion which I have for reference since I own the Mp777 SP1


Please help!!!

Can anyone give me an answer??

Thanks I dun want to buy the whole kit as well.

[isseym88]

sorry posted again

[isseym88]

I found a pic of the new mp777 sp2 front and rear shock tower on the web . By the look of it comparing to my SP1 shock tower, the only THREE holes on the new front shower tower appear to are located at the same place as the old top three holes.

The new rear shock tower has two row of five holes each instead of four for the sp1. Thanks for the info

[isseym88]

found out that the new front lower suspension arm of the MP777 SP2 has an additional plastic member across it to make it stronger

[dgrobe2112]

have a couple of question to those of you who have knowledge of the new conversion kit for the special 2.

1. Is the new front and rear shock tower for the mp 777 sp2, where all the holes are located for suspension setting the same as the mp777 sp1 ? THE SHOCK TOWERS ON THE SP2, FRONT ONLY HAVE 3 HOLES.. DIFFERENT SETTING THAN STOCK ONE.. THE REAR HAS MORE HOLES IN THE UPPER SECTION, 2 EXTRA HOLES PER SIDE. DONT THINK I WOULD WORRY BOUT IT IF YOU HAVE FIORONI TOWERS.

2. would buying the new front and rear shock tower give you a different in suspension settings and options, NOT ENOUGH TO JUSTIFY BUYING THEM

I have already a fioroni mp777 sp1 shock towers if the new shock tower are merely a beefed up version or stronger version of the old one then I would need to buy it..

3 The new hinge pins 4x74 , 3x47, 3x38 , 6.5x26mm all looks to me the same as the MP777 special 1's ? Why are they included in the conversion kit since they dont change the front lower suspension arm., NO NEED FOR THE NEW HINGE PINS, I BELEIVE THEY UPDATED THE HINGE PINS TO BE SMOOTHER THAN THE STOCK ONES ON THE SP1.

Or are the suspension Arm in MP777 sp1 and Sp2 different.

I notice the arm part numbers are different?

mp777 sp1 mp777 sp2

front lower suspension arm IF301 IF330

read lower suspension arm IF302 IF331
THE SUSPENSION ARMS ARE DIFFERENT, MOLD IS DIFFERENT, BUT THE GEOMETRY IS THE SAME

4. The new MP777 SP2 rear shock shaft for the rear IF337 is said to be of Length 66mm
(Mp777 sp2 parts catalog available from kyosho jp website).

it is therefore longer than the mp777 sp1 rear shock shaft 61mm.

However, they didnt include the shock case to accomodate the longer suspension in the conversion kit. Are the shock case for the rear suspension remain the same as the mp777 sp1? I AM NOT SURE ON THE SIZE OF THE SHOCK CASE, I BELEIVE THE SP2 SHOCK CASE IS LONGER THAN THE SP1, HOWEVER, I AM NOT FOR CERTAIN.


If so why is the part number for the rear shock case different?
mp777 sp1 mp777 sp2
rear shock case IF149-01 IF326-01


All the part number and reference are derived from the Kyosho Mp777 Sp1 manual, Spare parts list, exploded view and also the Kyosho MP777 SP2 manual, Spare parts list and exploded view downloadable from www.kyosho.co.jp just click on the link for download on the homepage.

They dun however has the SP1 informtion which I have for reference since I own the Mp777 SP1


Please help!!!

Can anyone give me an answer??

Thanks I dun want to buy the whole kit as well.[/QUOTE]

IF YOU ALLREADY HAVE THE SP1, I WOULD DO THE CONVERSION. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A SP1 ALLREADY, BUY THE SP2

[isseym88]

Thanks Dglobe you are very knowledgeable.
It is good for you to clarify the issues.

The new shock tower does not justify the extra cost in buying if I already have fioroni one. The fioroni one looks much nicer.

I am waiting for the reply on the new chassis plate from Rcchamp,japan.
They quote me a price of 24255 yen for the conversion kit which is much about the same or more expensive than those listed on Ebay.


If they are about much the same as the fioroni sp2 chassis then I will get the fioroni instead.

Anyone know a link to an online place to buy the new Fioroni chassis for the SP2? I saw it somewhere on the forums in the web for around 115US.

I agree that the hinge pin is a bit of a pain to get it in especially those for the lower rear suspension. going through the various suspension plates. Wonder how they improve the hinge pin.

[isseym88]

Mika , I would be grateful if you could post some closeup pics of the Front and Rear Shock For the SP2 as well as the radio plate. Thank you.

[kmorast]

Thanks Dglobe you are very knowledgeable.
It is good for you to clarify the issues.

The new shock tower does not justify the extra cost in buying if I already have fioroni one. The fioroni one looks much nicer.

I am waiting for the reply on the new chassis plate from Rcchamp,japan.
They quote me a price of 24255 yen for the conversion kit which is much about the same or more expensive than those listed on Ebay.


If they are about much the same as the fioroni sp2 chassis then I will get the fioroni instead.

Anyone know a link to an online place to buy the new Fioroni chassis for the SP2? I saw it somewhere on the forums in the web for around 115US.

I agree that the hinge pin is a bit of a pain to get it in especially those for the lower rear suspension. going through the various suspension plates. Wonder how they improve the hinge pin.

I just purchased the Fioroni SP2 chassis from rc-nation.com for $110.

[Mika]

Yes, the new radio plate is nice.. it relocates the components slightly, it is thicker and counter sunked holes.. I'll post few pics when I have the chance. Thanks.

[Mika]

OK, now some pics

old and new servo plate
http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/servoplate.jpg

front towers (old and new)
http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/front.jpg

new towers (front and rear)
http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/towers.jpg

[isseym88]

Hey Mika, Thanks for your reply. If you match the mounting points, point to point for both new and old shock tower where it is screwed into the bulkhead, how do holes for the shock tower align? does it align like this...

The top row of three holes of the sp2 front shock tower align with the top row of the three holes of the sp1.

The eight holes of the SP2 rear shock tower's match exactly of the eight holes of the SP1 except for the two extra holes on the SP2.

Does the new radio plates positioning and mounting point is so adversely defferent from the sp1 radio plate that it will require me to purchase the new radio plate as well. How is the possibility of using the old radio plates with the new chassis and layout?

I email Rc Champ, they said the new sp2 chassis plate is out of sotck and kyosho japan is on a week holiday and I have to wait for about two weeks for the sp2 chassis.

Would it be good idea to pay a bit more for the fioroni chassis for the sp2 from Rc nation? Anyone has experience with the fioroni new chassis yet?

I was a bit worry about the geometry of the fioroni chassis, will everything in term of (components positioning and geometry) come out exactly as it is intented as on the original SP2 chassis plate?

[isseym88]

Kmorast, please keep me posted with your Sp2 conversion? how you go about it, how things fit together or dun fit if you dun buy the conversion kit. I am very interested with the Fioroni chassis you got there. I was wondering do they relocate all the components exactly as the original SP2 chassis did...
:D

I do not have the luxury to buy a whole conversion kit... :D :D

[Mika]

Hey Mika, Thanks for your reply. If you match the mounting points, point to point for both new and old shock tower where it is screwed into the bulkhead, how do holes for the shock tower align? does it align like this...

The top row of three holes of the sp2 front shock tower align with the top row of the three holes of the sp1.

YES, you can still use the same stock hole of the SP1

The eight holes of the SP2 rear shock tower's match exactly of the eight holes of the SP1 except for the two extra holes on the SP2.

I think so YES

Does the new radio plates positioning and mounting point is so adversely defferent from the sp1 radio plate that it will require me to purchase the new radio plate as well. How is the possibility of using the old radio plates with the new chassis and layout?

I already installed the new plate so I cannot compare, but I think the shape and mountin holes are the same so you could still use the old one, HOWEVER steering servo is re-positioned, that's why longer servo rod (mounts also deeper to ball links) and the plate is also made stronger


I email Rc Champ, they said the new sp2 chassis plate is out of sotck and kyosho japan is on a week holiday and I have to wait for about two weeks for the sp2 chassis.

Would it be good idea to pay a bit more for the fioroni chassis for the sp2 from Rc nation? Anyone has experience with the fioroni new chassis yet?

I was a bit worry about the geometry of the fioroni chassis, will everything in term of (components positioning and geometry) come out exactly as it is intented as on the original SP2 chassis plate?

From my experience I would stay away from Fioroni, especially now when to K quality is so nice as this SP2. But Fioroni chassis are also hardened these days so their quality is getting better I guess.

Some other things worth mentioning... the new steering rods are also lighter and longer so they mount deeper to the ball links (something I broke with SP1) ... SP2 upgrade also ships harder quality hinge pins (also the lower arm hinge pins not just replacing the old black ones) so I assume they can take serious beating... K finland tested these new pins by trying to scratch them but they could not.... And of course the new shock shafts and springs but that you already knew.

[dgrobe2112]

Does the new radio plates positioning and mounting point is so adversely defferent from the sp1 radio plate that it will require me to purchase the new radio plate as well. How is the possibility of using the old radio plates with the new chassis and layout??

THE SP2 RADIO PLATE IS THICKER, AND COUNTERSUNK HOLES.. THATS THE ONLY DIFFERENCE.. HOLES ALL LINE UP WITH THE SP1 PLATE.

[kmorast]

Kmorast, please keep me posted with your Sp2 conversion? how you go about it, how things fit together or dun fit if you dun buy the conversion kit. I am very interested with the Fioroni chassis you got there. I was wondering do they relocate all the components exactly as the original SP2 chassis did...
:D

I do not have the luxury to buy a whole conversion kit... :D :D

I should have my Fioroni SP2 chassis tomorrow, I will let you know how everything goes together. If you go to this link you can get more info and some dimensions of the Fioroni chassis. http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:wNqNUIGvx3MJ:neo-buggy.net/Index-Under.htm+fioroni+sp2&hl=en

[JamminJay]

Just curious, Does anyone make these for the Kyosho shocks, or even for any 1/8 buggies? Thanx.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEU77&P=7

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. ofna makes some.. the Ofna 9.5 ones are the ones i got..

[Mika]

Sorry guys keep posting big pics but here's couple the chassis ready.. still needs shocks rework and a new body

http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/runko2.jpg

http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/runko1.jpg

Let me know when it is enough...I won't be posting any more for a while..Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

Guys.. my LHS has the SP1, with SP2 conversion kit for sale, comes both pieces.. for 645.95 plus shipping.. if yall are looking for one.. thats the cheapest i can find.. everywhere else is 699.99

I think im gonna have to get one for that price..

You get a complete SP1, and the conversion kit.. so.. spare towers, stock light blue springs, spare turnbuckles, spare hingepins.. great deal.. same price as the SP1 by itself..

Call 254-666-8020, he will ship via UPS with a tracking number provided. Ask for Dwayne, tell him Daniel sent ya.. :)

[jmangler1]

mika, looks sweet, I have to get one!

[dgrobe2112]

I think im gonna do it also.. gotta have the newest stuff.. hahah

[Mika]

HEHE.. I agree .. hope to get on track soon (if you have followed this http://www.usatf.com/ you may have noticed it's been raining like h*ll for the past week so it takes a while the tracks are in driving condition again)

[Mark O'Brien]

I've noticed a few posts about the new sp2 conversion. Most refer to a sp1 to sp2 conversion. Can you convert the standard 777 to a sp2, and if so what else might you need to complete the conversion.

[Mika]

Here's a shortish video about the new suspension, it's awesome (suspension, not the video clip ;-) )

http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/SP2.mov

Mark, I think it's basically doable by just buying the 777 SP2 upgrade kit which contains all the important parts.

[jmangler1]

Dude that suspension looks killer!

[dgrobe2112]

Well.. i finally saw the SP2 in action. My LHS owner has the SP2 conversion on his SP1, and i must say, i was very impressed with his performace last night. Much more consistant, he TQ'd with a 12 5:02, i qual'd 2nd with a 12 5:03 with my 777. However, in the 3rd round when i ran my best qual, he was all over me, and i had to literally drive the piss out of my car to stay in front. And driving like that with my car, just aint comfortable, cuz the car will get away from you.

I ended up stripping the servo horn on my steering in the main, and he won.. i was out front due to some faster pit stop.

He allowed me to drive his car after the races were over, and guess what.. im sold.. it is so forgiving, comparing side by side with my car. in some spots, where i had to be easy with the gas, to not let my car get away, his was just gas it.. and it stuck, the car turns great. i drove a whole tank, driving my style. Then driving the car as hard as i could, and with his car, it was planted.. i could correct the car, and not get away from me.. where when i correct with my car.. it would get away from me sometimes..

So.. im converting..

[jmangler1]

Thanks for letting us know your experience! I'm sold also! Kyosho rocks!

[Little_Horn]

I told you guys, this was the "thing" some posts ago.
The car is so much stable.
My LHS is getting the conversion and SP2 kits wednesday, if everything goes as planned.
I see a world title coming up!!
Don't you? ;)

[jmangler1]

Hey DG got a question for you or anyone who has an answer. I been haveing issues with my rear right shock. It leeks all the fluid out of the bledder hole. I changed the bladder twice now and still same problem. Is their any special way they go in... I took the old one out and put the new one in the grove at the very top of the cap. Still leeks. I took a quick 2 laps and notice alittle more hop than usual and sure enough it leak out again! This is really pissing me off!

Also those dumb e-clips that hold in my pins for my upper suspension front arms keep comming off. Is there a better way to keep them in.

[fearlessone]

http://www.racers-edge.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=24404&cat=442&page=1

no more E-clips.

[JamminJay]

I have been considering making a track in my backyard for sometime now, and this was one of the ideas Ihad in mind. let me know what you think. the top got cut off a bit in the scanner, but it should read that the upper most lane sweeps up slightly, then downward with a small jump before the curve. Lanes would be about 10-12' wide, but I haven't really drawn it to scale yet.

[Mika]

Hey DG got a question for you or anyone who has an answer. I been haveing issues with my rear right shock. It leeks all the fluid out of the bledder hole. I changed the bladder twice now and still same problem. Is their any special way they go in... I took the old one out and put the new one in the grove at the very top of the cap. Still leeks. I took a quick 2 laps and notice alittle more hop than usual and sure enough it leak out again! This is really pissing me off!

Also those dumb e-clips that hold in my pins for my upper suspension front arms keep comming off. Is there a better way to keep them in.

Are you sure you are assembling shocks as advised in the picture 41 in the manual http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/manuals/31778B.pdf Especially pay attention to part #182 (it does NOT go to the bottom of the cup)

Use only e-clips taht are new and you can use silicone sealant to keep them not falling off.

[jmangler1]

Thaks Litle h, I knew someone had to make something!

Mika, I never had a problem before and it just started leeking one day and I replace the bladder twice now and it still leaks out of the bleeder holes..... Maby my shock cap is bent some how...

[purple-monkey]

Thaks Litle h, I knew someone had to make something!

Mika, I never had a problem before and it just started leeking one day and I replace the bladder twice now and it still leaks out of the bleeder holes..... Maby my shock cap is bent some how...

I just ordered an sp2 kit from Ace. I spoke with kyoshoamerica and they said that what they are doing is including the conversion kit in sp1 kits. What I was wondering was if this fully converts an sp1 to an sp2. The japanese kits have new arms,they have been reinforced, they no longer have an lsd front diff and they have a lighter body. Does anyone have any info?

[dgrobe2112]

monkey..

The new SP2 does come with a standard front diff instead of the lsd.. Currently Kyosho America is sending SP1 with the 2 conversion, however.. the SP2 conversion does not have the standard diff gears to make the standard front diff.. other than that.. everything gets changed.. the new SP2 front arms have a little more beef too them in the front.. but thats it.. funny thing.. i bought the newest front arms.. and broke one the first weekend.. replaced it with the used one i originally took off.. and havent broke that one yet.. hahah

How much you getting your SP2 from ACE for?? my LHS has the SP1 with 2 conversion.. for 649 plus shipping..

[dgrobe2112]

jman.. you may check.. but i seen issues with the rear shock cap unscrewing itself..

[purple-monkey]

monkey..

The new SP2 does come with a standard front diff instead of the lsd.. Currently Kyosho America is sending SP1 with the 2 conversion, however.. the SP2 conversion does not have the standard diff gears to make the standard front diff.. other than that.. everything gets changed.. the new SP2 front arms have a little more beef too them in the front.. but thats it.. funny thing.. i bought the newest front arms.. and broke one the first weekend.. replaced it with the used one i originally took off.. and havent broke that one yet.. hahah

How much you getting your SP2 from ACE for?? my LHS has the SP1 with 2 conversion.. for 649 plus shipping..


I payed a little more than that. Looking forward to get back to a kyosho.I am in canada and there are no parts up here. I am actually a regional guy for ttr and that car is pretty good but I guess I miss my sp1.The rear arms are also new on the sp2 so I guess I have to wait and see what I am going to get in about five more days.

[Little_Horn]

Thaks Litle h, I knew someone had to make something!

Mika, I never had a problem before and it just started leeking one day and I replace the bladder twice now and it still leaks out of the bleeder holes..... Maby my shock cap is bent some how...

Aren´t you filling the shock too much?
Are you sure that you have the right amount of rebound?
In case you are sure that everything is well done, you could use the old kanai shock caps. They don't have the bleeding holes.
That way, if the bladder "blows" during a race, you won't loose the oil and may still end the race without loosing suspension.

[jmangler1]

Well I got the rear shock to stop leaking but it was from me pluging up that bleeder hole with some silicone. I was at the track all day today and no leaks! Must be a screwed up cap...

[jmangler1]

I just ordered an sp2 kit from Ace. I spoke with kyoshoamerica and they said that what they are doing is including the conversion kit in sp1 kits. What I was wondering was if this fully converts an sp1 to an sp2. The japanese kits have new arms,they have been reinforced, they no longer have an lsd front diff and they have a lighter body. Does anyone have any info?


Hey Monkey, How much did the Sp2 kit cost you from Ace? Did you get just the conversion or the whole kit...

[dgrobe2112]

jman.. 649 at my lhs..

[isseym88]

Hye ask you guys something. I have fioroni suspension plate which are about 6mm and while the factory suspension plate is only 3mm.

I was wondering where I can get a longer hinge pins for both the front and rear suspension arm. I think the factory size are 4mm x 74mm or 4mm x 73.5mm. Whn I use the factory hinge pin, I dun have sue up the length for the E clips.

I know K factory hinge pin are longer and I got it as well. But the problem with K factory is that when I insert the hinge pins in place, it use up part of the length where the thread for the nut is so I tightened the nut for the K factory, the nut only go only half the way,

Anyone using fioroni suspension plate? please tell you how you approach this...

Do lunsford make longer hinge pins for this case? They did have a set of hinge pins for the mp777 but I doubt it will accomodate the extra thickness of the fioroni plates.

[Mika]

Isseym88, I guess you have to buy Fioroni hinge pins as well to accomodate the thicker plate

[dgrobe2112]

issey.. i run Racers Edge towers.. which are thick like the fironi towers.. and i used stock hinge pins no problem.. i also just switched to the Kfactory hinge pins also.. and they work just fine also.. Fironi and Racers Edge, have milled parts in their towers, to lighten them up, and are milled where you need them to be. and should be milled down enough to the hinge pins to clear..

[purple-monkey]

I bought the full kit thats why I was wondering if it came with the new arms and normal front diff. What it is is an sp1 with the sp2 conversion kit in the box so you get 2 chassis ..... It cost me 675

[dgrobe2112]

monkey.. if you got the SP1 with the 2 conversion.. then you got the LSD diff in the front.. not the standard.. you can however.. buy the gears for the standard..

[purple-monkey]

I already looked up the part numbers for the standard gears. I will still be running my eb4 s3 for the rest of a series we have here in Canada and upper New York but I hope to have the sp2 ready for a race I want to go to in North Carolina.I made the mistake of selling my sp1 when Thunder Tiger Canada gave me a regional sponsership. Not that the ttr is a bad car but I have always run Kyosho in the past and when I started racing again after 5 years off I ran my sp1 with an old Nova Rossi short stroke that was lacking in power. Can't wait to try my new O.S. in the sp2 and I also got a new Nova p5 I want to try. I sort of blew the budget for this year and part of next but having fun being back in the hobby

[Mika]

DG, why would one drive a reg diff in front - even in SP2 ? Shouldn't LSD be better .. given if one knows how to get the best use out of it

[dgrobe2112]

the LSD makes the car even more twitchy than it is allready.. you can use the LSD diff, however you are limited on your setup options.. cant change the oils.. or anything like that.. Mark Pavidis said that the LSD diff is basically useless. Some people in europe and japan in those areas.. have different tracks.. and all that.. they may benefit them more than us with our tracks.. our tracks are alot different than the european tracks.. big jumps.. and all that.. where as euros have more flatter tracks.. with smaller jumps.. and everything..

I never used the LSD diff.. i have always wanted to try and see what it does.. just havent had the opportunity yet..

[isseym88]

Anyone using AA battery for their receiver pack? since all the standard 6.0v hump pack are 1200mah on average. I was about to get someone made a 6.0v hump pack using 5 Sanyo 2500mah AA batteries so I can drive longer.I think the three level configuration will fit into the battery compartment of the MP777. Eg
+o
o o
o o

I wonder how heavy will all five AA batteries will be in comparision to the standard hump pack 6.0v.

[dgrobe2112]

dont worry bout weight.. also.. i would do it in a different configuration.. my receiver pack is in
O O
O
O O

thats really the only way to get it to fit.. i tried the configuration you are gonna try.. and it dont sit in there right.. it will fit.. but its a pain in the ass to get in and out..

Also.. www.teamhelotes.com has battery packs.. thats the ones i use.. or www.justbatterypacks.com has some..

[Little_Horn]

Anyone using AA battery for their receiver pack? since all the standard 6.0v hump pack are 1200mah on average. I was about to get someone made a 6.0v hump pack using 5 Sanyo 2500mah AA batteries so I can drive longer.I think the three level configuration will fit into the battery compartment of the MP777. Eg
+o
o o
o o

I wonder how heavy will all five AA batteries will be in comparision to the standard hump pack 6.0v.

when I bought my 777 I did just that. Sure you have more runtime, but you also have more weight.
But the main problem isn't weight.
Soldering the battery cells is!
I mean, if by chance, one or more of the batteries unsolders itself, you won't be able to control your car. If you have good soldering skills and really know what you're doing, then it's fine. Even then, you should use shrink wrap, so everything stays in place even if something unsolders itself.
I use a hump (3+2) pack with 1100 mah and it's enough for me. If it isn't enough for you, buy another reciever pack.
In my opinion the risk of a unsoldered battery does not compensate the added run time.
To get the most run time from your packs allways use a discharger, to discharge your packs after you used them.
That way, you'll allways have your packs in top condition.
I use a very simple discharger from futaba, but it gets the job well done. It's the BR-2000. It's also a battery checker. It discharges 4.8v, 6v and 7.2v nimh/nicad/Li Ion, at 1 amp ~ 3 amps. The cut off voltage is at 0.9v/cell.

[isseym88]

dgrobe, just to be sure, is your battery configuration exactly as the "5" of a dice?

0 0
.0
0 0

or the middle battery is left aligned like you type it?

o o
o
o o

[purple-monkey]

Mika the lsd diff can cause the car to be twitchy off of jumps.When I had my sp1 I noticed how much the car pulled on acceleration.It was not as smooth as my old mp6 was in that way. With a standard diff you can play with diff oils to get different effects. Also from what I downloaded from Kyosho Japans website the sp2 kit ,this is not a conversion but a full kit, comes with a standard front diff.

[jmangler1]

I just ordered my Sp2 conversion cant wait to I get it in! Hopefully before this Friday so I can put it together and race it on Sunday!

Anyone know a good set-ups yet for this Sp2...

[Little_Horn]

I just ordered my Sp2 conversion cant wait to I get it in! Hopefully before this Friday so I can put it together and race it on Sunday!

Anyone know a good set-ups yet for this Sp2...

The car is new but, I'm starting to see some ppl using setups like the mp 7.5.
I think it's a good starting point, because the chassis is a little longer and the weight shifted a little to the back again.

Try it, and let us know how it goes. ;)

[jmangler1]

lil horn, I will have to find some 7.5 set-ups and try them out!! Thanks for the info. Where can I find some old 7.5 set-ups. I think I'm also going to a regular diff up front also. I will run it with the tcd for now then switch after I get my set up I like and see which I like better( regulear diff or TCD)..

[dgrobe2112]

everything on sgrid sofar.. is roughly the same.. setup hasnt changed much.. except the rear toe block is the2.5.. rear upper camber link is in the lowest inner hole on the tower.. but everything is bout the same..

[Mika]

the LSD makes the car even more twitchy than it is allready.. you can use the LSD diff, however you are limited on your setup options.. cant change the oils.. or anything like that.. Mark Pavidis said that the LSD diff is basically useless. Some people in europe and japan in those areas.. have different tracks.. and all that.. they may benefit them more than us with our tracks.. our tracks are alot different than the european tracks.. big jumps.. and all that.. where as euros have more flatter tracks.. with smaller jumps.. and everything..

I never used the LSD diff.. i have always wanted to try and see what it does.. just havent had the opportunity yet..

That's interesting.. I had a reg diff in my 7.5 and don't see this being worse w/ LSD in front ..quite the opposite but not sure.. I might try a reg diff again. That's true about tracks in general although our local track is more US style I guess, big jumps (4 in a row etc) whoops and all that..
This is an old pic of the track http://www.iso-hepa.com/pictures/Lavangon_rata1.jpg.popup.jpg
Not sure if it compares to your tracks at all...

Monkey, yes I know SP2 comes with a reg diff in front, we have those cars here already :D

[jmangler1]

Hey guys, Are the SP2 new bodies availible yet? If so where can I get one. Not sure my old body will fit the Sp2..

[Mika]

SP2 is body is exactly the same as 777 (Sp1) in dimensions only made of thinner lexan (0.8mm istead of 1.0mm) so it is lighter and more elastic.. both bodies will equally fit. An yes, it it out.

[jmangler1]

Mika, Thanks for letting me know about the body! I wastn't sure I thought maby since it was longer that the body may have changed.

[Mika]

Yes thanks, body post holes need adjusting, though, so you need a new body when doing the upgrade.

[kmorast]

I just received my Fioroni 777 SP2 chassis. I compared the chassis side by side with the SP1 chassis and it appears the engine, raido tray, and battery box have been moved back 1mm. The fuel tank and center diff are in the same position as the SP1; that being said the stock rear center shaft from the SP1 should work, however the front will still need to be changed. The front of the chassis is also longer by 4mm; they increased the length just behind the steering bell cranks. This looks like a suitable and cheaper way to upgrade to the SP2.

[jmangler1]

I might upgrade to that chassis later on. I just cant wait until my kit conversion kit arrives! I actually won it on Ebay for $190. Cant beat that! The place I won it from was called Mac Hobbies. It will be here tomarro!

[J_Bone]

I got a question...For the SP-1
On the Front end, there are 2 blocks right? the L/H and the A/B. Then for the front upper/rear a-arm mount there are 2 choices, which ones are you/were using?

[Mika]

The stock setup (as advised in the manual)

[Mika]

Got my first drive today with SP2 and one word: AWESOME!!!
Reminds me MP7.5 in a good way but has a nice blend of 777 in it, too

[jmangler1]

Just got my conversion and you know its going together tonite! Will have it out tomarrow! Cant wait!!!!

Hey Mika, What set-up you running??

[dgrobe2112]

I got a question...For the SP-1
On the Front end, there are 2 blocks right? the L/H and the A/B. Then for the front upper/rear a-arm mount there are 2 choices, which ones are you/were using?

use the L block.. and the A block.. same with the bushings.. FYI.. the eccentric bushings are affected by the block..if your running the L block.. make sure the L is in the up position on your bushings.. same with the A block..

[dgrobe2112]

I just received my Fioroni 777 SP2 chassis. I compared the chassis side by side with the SP1 chassis and it appears the engine, raido tray, and battery box have been moved back 1mm. The fuel tank and center diff are in the same position as the SP1; that being said the stock rear center shaft from the SP1 should work, however the front will still need to be changed. The front of the chassis is also longer by 4mm; they increased the length just behind the steering bell cranks. This looks like a suitable and cheaper way to upgrade to the SP2.

Here is what i am thinking.. if you line up the 4 holes that hold on the front end of the car.. chassis to chassis.. you should notice that the gas tank, radio tray, motor, center diff, have all moved back by about 4mm.

The rear end, like the 4 holes holding the rear diff on the chassis.. should only be about 1.5mm back. i think you did it backwards, by lining up the rear of the chassis rather than the front..

[dgrobe2112]

Got my first drive today with SP2 and one word: AWESOME!!!
Reminds me MP7.5 in a good way but has a nice blend of 777 in it, too

Mika, have you raced it yet?? check your lap times.. see how your consistancy changed.. i think you will notice your laps are more consistant..

I got mine together last night.. cant wait.. to race tomorrow.. i basically replaced all the plastic.. and bearings.. and did a complete rebuild.. i almost have a new car.. with the exception of my shock towers.. and wings.. hahah

[Mika]

Next race on Sunday.. let's see. yes, I'm positive lap times will be more consistent.. Yesterday C5 was launching the car with 14T bell very nicely with great top speed.
Good luck to the race, DG! Sounds good.. so you stick w/ the original towers.. not bad..

Jmangler, my setup.. well pretty much like stock SP1 except the new springs of course with 2mm preload in front nothing at rear .. shocks inside on the arm.. diffs TCD-7K-1K .. shocks front 50wt asso oil 1.4mm holes, rear 50wt asso oil 1.6mm holes .. 3deg block at rear.. outermost hole on the 22deg caster blocks in front.. That's about it.. Opinions? Waiting to get a copy of the setup sheet that came along with my friend's SP2 car.

[kmorast]

Here is what i am thinking.. if you line up the 4 holes that hold on the front end of the car.. chassis to chassis.. you should notice that the gas tank, radio tray, motor, center diff, have all moved back by about 4mm.

The rear end, like the 4 holes holding the rear diff on the chassis.. should only be about 1.5mm back. i think you did it backwards, by lining up the rear of the chassis rather than the front..

When you line the chassis up from the front of course everything has moved back including the rear diff. The rear diff is about 5 mm back. I used the rear to line it up because the pictures I saw showed the front end being moved forward.

[J_Bone]

use the L block.. and the A block.. same with the bushings.. FYI.. the eccentric bushings are affected by the block..if your running the L block.. make sure the L is in the up position on your bushings.. same with the A block..

You confused me... :eek:
On the front end, the upper/rear a-arm mount. There are 2 of them. I'm not sure which one to run.
I've read all over to use A block and L block, so the blocks are the bushing that snap into the a-arm mounts??

[Mika]

A and L is the stock setup that most people use. YES!

[dgrobe2112]

Jbone.. kinda hard to explain.. on the inside of the car.. there is a upper block, where the hinge pin is held.. its weird looking.. but you have 2 options.. L block, and H block, stock and what i run is the L block put your H block in your box, for a backup.. or different setup options...

On the lower hing pin, for the lower arm, there is 2 blocks also, marked A and B, use the A block..

Next, when you use the bushings, these are the little round looking pieces that slide into the shock tower, and into the upper block.. the one that goes in the upper block, has an A and B on it.. turn it so the A is facing up.. cuz your using the A block.. the bushing that goes into the shock tower.. has markings of H and L on it.. turn the bushing so the L is facing up, cuz your using the L block. its the stock setup from when you built the car.. if you look at your manual.. it will explain it better..

[dgrobe2112]

so you stick w/ the original towers.. not bad..

Nah, i have Racers Edge shock towers.. that was the first thing i changed on the car.. along with the Racers Edge chassis braces.

Now.. my car has the full Racers Edge treatment on it.. the hard anodized color.. matches the chassis nice..

www.racers-edge.com shows what all the parts are...

[dgrobe2112]

When you line the chassis up from the front of course everything has moved back including the rear diff. The rear diff is about 5 mm back. I used the rear to line it up because the pictures I saw showed the front end being moved forward.

But, they released the new SP2, cuz they moved the engine and stuff back.. they didnt change the front.. are you talkin bout the pictures of the new fironi chassis?? where they showed the new holes and stuff?? i will have to see if i can find those pics..

But i am positive that they moved the engine, and rear end back.. everything from the exhaust pipe mount back.. has moved back..

They moved the engine, center diff, radio box and servo tray, fuel tank back like 4mm.

The rear end, arms, toe block, squat plate.. stuff like that.. only moved back like 2mm

The chassis is only 2mm longer as well..

[Mika]

Nah, i have Racers Edge shock towers.. that was the first thing i changed on the car.. along with the Racers Edge chassis braces.
Now.. my car has the full Racers Edge treatment on it.. the hard anodized color.. matches the chassis nice..
www.racers-edge.com shows what all the parts are...

Oh yes, sure, totally forgot...These parts are so cool, had full option in my 7.5 .. perhaps next summer..(I have the full winter time build the car since it's so damn long 7-8 months here witout driving) Got any pics of your weapon?

[kmorast]

But, they released the new SP2, cuz they moved the engine and stuff back.. they didnt change the front.. are you talkin bout the pictures of the new fironi chassis?? where they showed the new holes and stuff?? i will have to see if i can find those pics..

But i am positive that they moved the engine, and rear end back.. everything from the exhaust pipe mount back.. has moved back..

They moved the engine, center diff, radio box and servo tray, fuel tank back like 4mm.

The rear end, arms, toe block, squat plate.. stuff like that.. only moved back like 2mm

The chassis is only 2mm longer as well..

According to the pictures of the fioroni part #OT-UR70 SP2 chassis all the components you mention moved back 1 mm and the front diff was moved forward 4mm; however I compared the SP1 chassis against the Fioroni SP2 chassis and found if you align the two chassis at the rear diff and then compare, the center diff and fuel tank are in the same location as the SP1. The engine, servos and battery box have been moved back 1mm. Just in front of the fuel tank and behind the steering bellcranks 4mm has been added increasing the chassis length. This should give the car more traction and stability, and slightly calming the car down. As soon as I get it on the track I will give a run down on how it handles. Check this link out.

http://www.gsracing.com/web/page.asp?pgs=news&id=76

[dgrobe2112]

thats the pic i was looking for.. i saw the pics of them before.. and your right.. i will take pics of my old chassis.. on top of the new one.. and show you what i was talking about.. wont have those till tomorrow or something..

Mika.. i dont have any new pics just yet.. but will have some soon..

[dgrobe2112]

Jman.. i am using my same body.. i just had to do a little dremel work.. the body mount holes needed longer in each direction.. however.. if i line up the front hole.. i gotta dremel more around the motor.. and dremel the rear post.. its a tight fit.. but you can make your current body work..

[jmangler1]

Next race on Sunday.. let's see. yes, I'm positive lap times will be more consistent.. Yesterday C5 was launching the car with 14T bell very nicely with great top speed.
Good luck to the race, DG! Sounds good.. so you stick w/ the original towers.. not bad..

Jmangler, my setup.. well pretty much like stock SP1 except the new springs of course with 2mm preload in front nothing at rear .. shocks inside on the arm.. diffs TCD-7K-1K .. shocks front 50wt asso oil 1.4mm holes, rear 50wt asso oil 1.6mm holes .. 3deg block at rear.. outermost hole on the 22deg caster blocks in front.. That's about it.. Opinions? Waiting to get a copy of the setup sheet that came along with my friend's SP2 car.

Well guys I got it all together and all I can say is it is sweeeeet! They should have made the carlike this from the start! Everythig they give you is so much nicer! I cant wait to drive it! Its raining right now,but the suns supposed to come out!

Mika, I have the same diff set-up. My front shocks are 50 and rear are 35(will probably have to change that.) My shocks up front are on the inside arm holes, but my rear is on the outside.

How do you like your C5? I have one also and it is modded by RB. I has sooo much top end it is rediculous! It just seems like the bottomend is alittle on the week side. Is yours like that? I have a 13tooth CB and I'm useing XB8 aluminum shoes with Kyosho 1.1 springs. I think with that setup it should have plenty of low end but it just seems a little week, but once the rpms pick up its like a jet. Maby I used to driveing my V-Spec...


Hey DG, I about to start to fit that SP1 body on thanks for the heads up!

[Little_Horn]

I got my upgrade today. My buggy is in pieces for a long time, waiting for this upgrade to come around. Now, I will rebild my diffs and shocks, and put everything together again. I'll try and test the new car this weekend, but I'm not sure if I can. Anyway, I'll start with 5k/7k/1k (f/c/r), 500cps (+- 40 WT) Kyosho oil and 1.4 mm in front, and 350cps (+- 30 WT) Kyosho oil and 1.3 mm in the back. I'll also try the 2.5º rear toe plate.
Short front upper arms and middle hole in 22º hubs.

[Mika]

jmangler, 35wt at rear is propably not so bad w/ 1.4mm holes.. I have 1.6mm holes and I think they work very nice w/ 50wt oil.
About C5, I thought it's only the top end but after changing to 14T bell I had to change my opinion.. Seems with 13T bell power is lost to front wheels but with 14T bell the low end power really kicks out and the top end is even greater... heard guys been racing on some tracks even w/ 15T bell and the power is amazing this engine has... top end AND low end ... Don't switch to your OS yet.. try out the 14T or even 15T bell with composite shoes and 1.1mm springs on.. it's a blast!

Here's the baby http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/sp2.jpg
(it has Sirio stickers but running the C5 at the moment)

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. the C5 motor has SOOOO much bottom end power.. thatn you can run a taller gear.. and still have tons of bottom left.. hahah..

Tonight is the test to see what happens with the car..

[Mika]

Exact! (bottom end, not "low end", sorry) Waiting for results man ...

[jmangler1]

I thought with the 13t it would have a ton of low end like my vspec. I will try the 14t and differentshoes and see how that works! Maybe it is unloading it up front. Let us know how you do DG! Good luck! Mika, that buggy looks good all white like that! I like those wheels, I had the same one on my ttr s3.

[dgrobe2112]

well.. just got back.. the car is awesome.. the first round.. the rear was a little loose.. all i did was dial out some rear break.. and that was good.. i think on a loose track.. like dusty.. go with the 3deg toe block in the rear.. i ran the 2.5, cuz i knew they were gonna water the track.. when the track got watered.. it was on.. the car was stupid planted.. worked great.. with the 2.5. turned in great.. had a bit of an on power push.. but i think i may have my toe set out too far.. i havent really got to put it on the setup station.. i think i need the toe to come in more..

Other than that.. car is planted.. i won the main.. ended up breaking the car on the last 3 laps.. the center diff or something went out.. not putting power to the rear wheels.. gotta see what that problem is..

One thing.. the track was weird loose tonight.. everyone complaining about a loose car.. i set my car up to be a little loose.. cuz i thought the longer chassis may cause some push.. so when the track was loose.. i knew my car would be a little loose.. however.. everyone else was crazy loose.. i coulda made the car right.. if the track stayed.. but i knew they were gonna water.. so i didnt mess with it..

[Mika]

Congrats DG! Sounds good!

Jmangler, 14T bell will make a huge difference.. I suppose with 13T power goes to front wheels and it lifts up, so it does not go to the ground.. You'll be surprised with taller gearing, it's so good. Thanks, the painting is simple (done fast) but it's nice on track, thought all white would be nice for a change.

[jmangler1]

DG, glad you kick some a$$!

Mika, I will change the CB to a 14t and try some carbon shoes. I will let you know how I make out at practice today.

How do you post up pic's? I was trying to post my pic but cant figure out how to do it...

[Mika]

You need a website to post pics here (i.e. link them) .. carbon shoes or alloy..both are fine. Let us know..

[jmangler1]

Well just got in from running my bug today. This thing is awsome! Its so muck easier to drive! Still steers great, and soaks up the bumps 10x better! I could carry soooo much more speed in the turns now its just so smoothe! The local boyz are in some serious trouble!!!! The SP2 is on fire!!!!

As for my C5. Ran good but I found out what my problem is... My cluch spring some how came off and my clutch shoe was sticking. I fixed the problem and was running it and it started doing it again(sticking) I thing I have defective cluctch springs. I might check out the adjustable Fioroni clutch. Other than that the C5 was running good enough to whoop up on my buddies XB8! I was just so smoothe all over where he was hopping all over and just not handling no where near as good as my bug. He kept trying to run my pace and he kept crashing every where. the track was really tight and technical. Either he cant drive or the SP2 is just that much better!

I went to a second practice track and it was a high speed with big jumps and alot of rough stuff in between, also very dusty/loose surface. The buggy handled great their also! And I still beat my buddy's XB8 all over the track. I would checkout on him, then I would kinda putt around till he caught me and passed me then I would be all over him and he would either crash trying to stay in front or I just would clean pass him. The buggy just goes where ever I want it to. If it wasn't for my clutch sticking it would have been perfect!!! I love the new conversion and its worth every penny!

[kmorast]

I've been using the werks adjustable clutch for the entire summer. I love the adjustability and you never have to worry about clutch springs breaking or sticking.

[dgrobe2112]

jman.. what springs are you running?? if they are breaking.. check and make sure your shoes are not wore out.. if you are running carbon shoes.. they can wear out pretty quick.. also. if you have aluminum shoes.. and the springs are not fully seated in the slot on the shoe.. cuz the slot is not deep enough.. it will break the springs.. when they hit the bell..

I think you may want to try a new set of shoes.. and springs.. what is your clutch setup on that motor... if your having trouble with the engine spinning the tires.. you could try to use a lighter shoe.. like.. 1.0 or something..

[jmangler1]

jman.. what springs are you running?? if they are breaking.. check and make sure your shoes are not wore out.. if you are running carbon shoes.. they can wear out pretty quick.. also. if you have aluminum shoes.. and the springs are not fully seated in the slot on the shoe.. cuz the slot is not deep enough.. it will break the springs.. when they hit the bell..

I think you may want to try a new set of shoes.. and springs.. what is your clutch setup on that motor... if your having trouble with the engine spinning the tires.. you could try to use a lighter shoe.. like.. 1.0 or something..

I just put a new set of Kyosho 1.1's and a new set of carbon shoes on their. I had aluminum ones on their previously with 1.1's. That happened with both carbon and aluminum. I took of the clutch bell and the clutch shoe was loose. The spring actually came loose somehow. Maby the one end of the spring is just a little bit short and its commig undone under pressure. Anyway I think I'm going to try a werks clutch or the Fioroni adjustable clutch...

[jmangler1]

What do you guys think will be better a Werks or a Fioroni adjustable clutch?? If any one has tried the 2, I would love to hear your fedback!

[kmorast]

What do you guys think will be better a Werks or a Fioroni adjustable clutch?? If any one has tried the 2, I would love to hear your fedback!


I just looked at a picture of the Fioroni clutch; it looks exactly like the Werks clutch. I like my works clutch because it comes with three different springs and carbon shoes. It looks like the Fioroni clutch comes with one spring and 2 carbon and 2 rulon shoes. If you want more info take a look at werks web page.

[jmangler1]

kmorast,
Yea, I think I will go with the works because its about half the price.

[Mika]

Just got back from the race..my results nothing special.. car was freakin fast but somehow steering was giving me problems.. maybe it's the TCD in front..need to try the reg diff.
DG, what shock fluids and pistons are you using? And what are your shock positions ? (appreciate if you can share your info) I had first inside in the arm but car was flipping, moved outwards, more stable, but then I think I was bottoming so that gave me few unwanted spins.

[dgrobe2112]

2nd race tonight.. sunday.. 2nd win.. the car.. actually had too much traction.. i literally had to put on a set of tires that didnt provide as much traction.. i had motor issues.. i feel i woulda been faster had my motor been acting better.. however.. the car is really good..

Mika.. on my front SP2 shock tower.. use the middle hole.. (bent a Racers Edge tower in a really hard wreck.. that would aprolly broke any other tower) SP1 tower.. is the upper inner hole.. and on the front arm.. i am on the inside hole.. i run 60 weight associated oil in the front, with the white pistons.. spacers so the unis are just above level. running 4k in the front.. however.. i think i will put 5k.. i definitly think you need to get a standard diff in the front.. it will make the car act better and more predictable in the turns.. also.. it will jump and land better as well.. lets see.. i am gonna go to the 22deg hubs in the front.. currently running the 20's.. but they are too aggressive going into the turns.. i am using the long arms.. and the outer holes on the blocks.. upper L block, with the A lower block (stock as book says)

Center.. i tried 6k oil.. didnt like it too much.. the car diffed out too much.. seemed it made the car turn too much.. and the wheels ballooned up alot.. i am gonna go back to 7k..

Rear.. i run the 2nd from the inside on the upper set of holes.. on a Racers Edge shock tower..(same for SP1 rear tower) which on the SP2 towers.. i think is the 3rd from the inside.. on the arm.. i am using the outside hole. for the upper rear arm, i am in the inner lowest hole on the shock tower.. and outer hole on the rear hub.. i use 40 weight oil with the white pistons, spaced enough to get the unis level. 3 deg toe block in the rear, will tame the on power steering.. and make it more stable... 2deg squat plate (gold) 2k rear diff oils..

Sp2 blue springs all around..

Mika.. if your car is different.. just make small changes..

What is your car doing.. is it on power over steer.. meaning the car spins on power.. or is the rear coming around on braking??

My brakes are setup almost 50/50 front to rear.. even.. however.. if the car is loose under braking.. rear wants to come around.. i will take some rear brake out of the car.. and add some front.. i do 95% of my braking before i get to the corner.. and let the car carry corner speed..

Hope this helps.. if you can explain to me wha tthe car is doing.. i may be able to help out more.. again.. just make small changes.. i really think its your front diff is a big part of it.. but again.. small changes.. like.. change the shock oils.. then run it.. see if its better.. then the shock locations.. then run it.. and so on.. my setup is pretty balanced i think.. more of a basic easy setup.. that almost everyone can run.. i dont get far fromt he book setup.. some guys like an aggressive car.. others like a lazy car.. right now.. my car is aggressive going into the corners..

Let me know how it works out.. i will prolly be working on some other stuff.. like thicker rear diff oils.. and the front castor blocks.. also.. gonna try the front short upper arms.. see what they do.. use the inner holes on the castor blocks..

[Mika]

Thanks DG for the info.. I think with TCD it was just a bit too unpredictable.. coming out of corners the car started waving around.. didn't like the feeling.. What I'll do is gonna change the front diff and everything else remains as is.. let's see. I think our cars will be quite equal then. Perhaps also change to thicker fluid in shocks (50->60). You seem to have inside in front but outside at rear on the arms..interesting. Thanks again,
Mika

[dgrobe2112]

the inside in the front is not what the book says.. however.. thats what everyone said to do.. i went to the outside on the rear to loosen up the rear some.. also.. thats the stock book location for the car.. i tried the inside hole on the arm.. and it let the car hook more.. and roll..

[jmangler1]

Hey have any of you guys tried those "Storm Traction" Torsen Differentials. Was looking into them but dont konw if they are worth all the money..

[dgrobe2112]

if you want a torsen in the center.. run your LSD in the center

[Mika]

Guys, SP2 manual is available at http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/download/instructionmanual/buggy/pdf/31779_infmp777_sp2_m.pdf

[J_Bone]

So, is it possible to piece the SP-2 kit (upgrade)? Or would it be cheaper just to buy the whole kit for $210 ??

[Mika]

sure..but kit is easier and cheaper..I would say (consider..just the chassis alone is almost half the price of the kit)

[Mika]

I did some setup changes, gonna test tomorrow ... our track is more technical than the track I raced last time so let's see .. reg diff in front (missed the pins locking outdrives so I used the ones from TCD hope it's gonna work though they are bit shorter and rounded in the ends) .. changed to 3deg anti-squat block and 20deg caster and set steering to medium .. cleaned and put new oils to my shocks (same 50wt) .. also changed almost all bladders since those were broke .. changed rear shocks to upper inner hole (as in the SP2 manual) .. This may be worse but we'll know more tomorrow.

[jmangler1]

Congrats DG! Sounds good!

Jmangler, 14T bell will make a huge difference.. I suppose with 13T power goes to front wheels and it lifts up, so it does not go to the ground.. You'll be surprised with taller gearing, it's so good. Thanks, the painting is simple (done fast) but it's nice on track, thought all white would be nice for a change.


Hey Mika/DG, What glo plug you guys running in your C5's? Last weekend I went trough a couple of them and they useally last a long time in my other motors. Does this motor eat up plugs or am I running the wrong plug... I run Byron's 30% nitro 11% oil, with a MC59 glo plug. Oh yea it is RB moded also. On the box it say's moded run 30% and a hot plug.

Also what are your carb settings at. I looked in my book and it didnt have a setting for my low speed needle.

[jmangler1]

Hey DG, Where can I get a set of long arms at?

[dgrobe2112]

jman.. i usually ran the RB6 plug in my WS7II.. i never owned a C5.. set of long arms?? those are the stock arms on the car.. there are hobby shops online you can order from.. i know my LHS has both short and long arms.. 254-666-8020 ask for Dwayne.. call after 11 during the day.. central time..

[Mika]

Byron RACE 2500 and only RB #6 plug but I assume air temps are bit colder here up North. Settings are .. good (no idea how many turns, sorry).

[jmangler1]

OK I will try a different plug. I thought they came out with longer arms. I though I
heard someone say that last weekend, but they might have been talking about something else, I didnt catch the whole conversation.

[Mika]

Just came back from testing... moved to B blocks and from L to H in front along with the front reg diff (5K) and 20deg caster blocks.. I liked it. More stable, turns pretty well, predictable as DG said.. Put also back the 2deg anti-squat (3deg too bumpy). Set 4mm preload front and rear. Have you tried B blocks? Give those a try and let me know what you think, I think it was good. Didn't have any other cars on track this morning so cannot exactly say if I was slower or faster..but it kinda felt good. No spins etc at all even the track was really loose and bumpy.

[dgrobe2112]

i have not tried the B blocks.. however i have tried the H block, and it works great in the tight stuff.. just hard to carry high speed turns.. so.. i have decided only at 2 certain tracks do i use the H block.. and they are both small tracks..

What kinda track are you running on... is it a tight track??

[Mika]

Not sure .. it has some tight turns, average in size, one long straight, has 1 bigger jump and 4 smaller in a row plus whoops and couple of tables. I'd say it's pretty technical and more US style than in general. And it's pretty bumpy (has holes) and loose. Nothing you would just cruise through, but demands hard driving.
Just came testing again 3-4hrs, I really like the setup, perhaps because it so close to 7.5 , jumps a bit better though and turning still quite good.. although much more driving in slide than with SP1, but that's the style I'm more used to.

[dgrobe2112]

what do you mean more driving in slide than the SP1??

[jmangler1]

Mika, what pipe are you running? I'm running a JP-2 and was thinking of switching to a JP-1...

[J_Bone]

I got rid of tha LSD front diff and installed the regular gears, pins and added 5K oil. OMG, what a difference!! HUGE!! I would recommend to every one, swap the gears out..It's only $16 and is worth it!
Well I bought the SP-2 kit, but haven't installed it yet.

Doesn't the H-Block raise the upper a-arm? If so that would lower roll center so it wouldn't roll as much makes it more stable. I would think that would be better for High speed and bumpy tracks?? The fast Kyosho driver at my track is running the H-Block and B-block and his is more stabel than mine. Our setups are the same except for those block's. I will have to test them out.
My track is a bit bumpy with some good size jumps.

Here's my track....
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/hobbyaction/Hobbyaction-track.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

Jbone.. you are right.. the H block lowers the roll center.. and it will work better on the high speed tracks like you said.. i dont have a B block.. wonder what the A and B block does.. what are the differences between the 2..

[J_Bone]

Jbone.. you are right.. the H block lowers the roll center.. and it will work better on the high speed tracks like you said.. i dont have a B block.. wonder what the A and B block does.. what are the differences between the 2..

I'm not 100% positive but think the B block raise up too. So when you use the H block on top, the B block will keep the same distance between the 2 hinge pins. Kinda like use the L block with the A block??? Which will affect the roll center too. I read that Cavalrai was using the H block and A block. Which if the differences between the A & B block are what I think, his setup would be real stable. Where the H & B might not be as stable, but more so than L & A???
Sound right??? LOL.

I will find out the differences between the A & B blockwhen I install the SP-2 kit, unless someone else knows?

thanks

[Mika]

Mika, what pipe are you running? I'm running a JP-2 and was thinking of switching to a JP-1...

RB 2020

DG, yes, more in slide than with SP1 (and nicely)

J_Bone, yes, dump the TCD/LSD!! (like DG recommended)

Our track is more flat and not so many jumps and curbs like in this one..so not that technical, but faster I guess. Maybe that's the reason why B blocks work better to my opinion.

[Mika]

..and the track

http://www.snrt.net/lavanko.jpg

[J_Bone]

Nice!! Looks like it flows well.
We are going to change our track again after it cools down. I'm in Arizona and it's suppose to be 110F today. It's cooled down form the 118 we ahd a few weeks ago.

[isseym88]

Have anyone compare the new Fioroni Sp2 chassis and the Kyosho mp777 sp2 chassis?

Are the layout exactly the same?

Are the mounting points for various components on the same spot?

I am ordering a fioroni sp2 chassis so I am worry if it will have a new layout differently of the factory mp777 sp2 chassis

[Mika]

Since it says "SP2 chassis" I would consider it being the same as factory

Here's my car after a track session and some cleaning
http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/elokuu05.jpg

[prophead]

Okay,

so after all the magazine tests, and talking to local guys, I'm looking to purchase the 777 sp1. My LHS has some outrageous pricing on the kit! Can any of you recommend a good (read: CHEAP!), internet shop to get this kit?

Also, what spares are you carrying to the track? I ran 1/8 on road for a while, and you basically needed a couple of cars worth of spares! ( I had some problems with the boards!).

Thanks in advance for any help.

-Steve

[dgrobe2112]

prophead.. if you are looking for one at a good price.. call 254-666-8020 on tuesday... what kinda price are you looking at??

[fearlessone]

Heres the besy price i've seen yet.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php?products_id=3428

[prophead]

Heres the besy price i've seen yet.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php?products_id=3428

..That's the best deal i've seen so far!

[prophead]

prophead.. if you are looking for one at a good price.. call 254-666-8020 on tuesday... what kinda price are you looking at??

..What ph # am I calling? Is that someones house? It's not one of those $2/minute party chatline services is it? LOL.. :eek:

[jmangler1]

Prop, Amain has the best deal I have seen!

[jmangler1]

Hey Mika, How do you like the sp2 kit so far? I will be racing today if this rain holds up. Cant wait! My bug is set up soo nice right now!

[J_Bone]

Well I started to build my SP-2 and saw the difference between the A & B lower blocks.
They are what I thought. The A is lower like the L-block is lower to the H-Block.
So I'm running the H-Block and A-Block. I need a bit more stability on my track.

[kmorast]

I got to race my 777 with the Fioroni sp2 chassis yesterday and all I can say is "wow". The car is so much better, my fastest lap time with the sp1 was 25.2 seconds. My fastest time with the sp2 is now 24.0 seconds (the track was perfect). Even when the track was bad I was running 24.9's. I was able to hit the most difficult sections of the track with incredible speed and the car didn't do anything unexpected. After I easily won the A main I had guys coming up to me wanting to try my car out. They couldn't believe how fast it was on the track. I was able to run 2.5 degrees of rear toe and still come out of the corners on the throttle. The car had great steering and went where I pointed it every time. if your looking to save a little money get the Fioroni SP2 chassis, Kyosho center universal IFW13 or IFW45 (will require a little modification to get fit) and a longer tie rod for the steering servo. You won't be dissapointed.

[Mika]

Congrats!! This is strong evidence how good the car actually is..

[J_Bone]

Is the longer piston rod needed? I'm debating if it makes a difference. I'm using the springs though.

[prophead]

prophead.. if you are looking for one at a good price.. call 254-666-8020 on tuesday... what kinda price are you looking at??

Right now,

i'm looking at one for 469 w/ free shipping. I'm looking to buy before the end of the week. What's your thoughts?

Thanks again,
Steve

[dgrobe2112]

Right now,

i'm looking at one for 469 w/ free shipping. I'm looking to buy before the end of the week. What's your thoughts?

Thanks again,
Steve

i cant post the price.. call him.. but i think he will beat that price. that is the number for my local hobby shop..

[jmangler1]

Hey guys,
I need a piston and sleeve for my V-spec and cant find one any where! That goes for my M2K also! I looked all over and cant find one for either motor, maby I'm looking in the wrong places..... RCmushroom and RCnation are both sold out! Tower is going to have anthing untill late Sept.....

[dgrobe2112]

drop me an email address.. and i will post it on sgrid..

[jmangler1]

johnnymangual@comcast.net

Thanks DG!

[dgrobe2112]

prophead.. give him a buzz.. i told him you would be calling.. and he said he would work you a deal..

[isseym88]

Got everything of the sp2 conversion kit except the chassis and the rsdio plate. Also got an fioroni sp2 chassis everything fit nicely.

I order a set of sp2 shock set separtely instead of buying the shaft only to make sure that I get the Sp2 rear shock case too......
but found out the shock case are the same as the mp777 sp1.

I am building it at the moment

[dgrobe2112]

issey.. the radio plate is the same from both.. the SP2 is a little thicker.. and has countersunk holes in it.. so its not totally neccessary..

[jmangler1]

Hey guys, The SP2 is just awsome! So much better with the changes! I have no complats except for 1. I think I could use alittle more off and on power steering! Ya see theres this one area on my track that I cant get my car where I want it. Its a little straight stretch and then a sharp left turn(180 degree) and then aother 180 degree right turn and the double is right there. I'm trying to carry as much speed as possibe without useing my brakes and when I go to make the first left I come off acceleration and turn left and my car just likes to push instead of turning then same thing when I go for the right hand 180 turn. It sucks I have to carry alot of speed to clear this double and the way my car push off and on the power in that section I just cant clear it. Not enough speed because I have to slow up too much to set up! It seems like everyone is haveing that problem at the track. I cleared it once and I was the only one. Maby the track is too loose??? My tires are looking alittle suspec to maby its that. It was very frustrating today because I was trying so hard to get that section down and jst couldn't! I want to try something just dont know what to do. Have a race on Friday hopefully I will get it right! My shock weights are 60 frnt-40rear, 5frnt,7cnt,1rear are my diffs. Would love to here any opinions!!!!!

[dgrobe2112]

try going to 3k in the front.. that will prolly help out on that.. also.. you may need to try setting up wider on the first turn.. so you can use a controlled slide to get through the first left hand turn..

[jmangler1]

DG, I have a TCD diff up front. I made a mistake on the post. Maby I should switch to a regular diff...

[Mika]

Do that.. it is worth it! After doing this change I finally realised how bad it (TCD) really is. Local K guys advised that 4K in the center is the max required with TCD, I had 7K, made the car feel unconsistent..don't have that problem anymore.

[kmorast]

Hey guys, The SP2 is just awsome! So much better with the changes! I have no complats except for 1. I think I could use alittle more off and on power steering! Ya see theres this one area on my track that I cant get my car where I want it. Its a little straight stretch and then a sharp left turn(180 degree) and then aother 180 degree right turn and the double is right there. I'm trying to carry as much speed as possibe without useing my brakes and when I go to make the first left I come off acceleration and turn left and my car just likes to push instead of turning then same thing when I go for the right hand 180 turn. It sucks I have to carry alot of speed to clear this double and the way my car push off and on the power in that section I just cant clear it. Not enough speed because I have to slow up too much to set up! It seems like everyone is haveing that problem at the track. I cleared it once and I was the only one. Maby the track is too loose??? My tires are looking alittle suspec to maby its that. It was very frustrating today because I was trying so hard to get that section down and jst couldn't! I want to try something just dont know what to do. Have a race on Friday hopefully I will get it right! My shock weights are 60 frnt-40rear, 5frnt,7cnt,1rear are my diffs. Would love to here any opinions!!!!!


Try 55 wt shock oil and 3k diff oil up front. I'm also running 3k in the rear diff and 35wt shock oil. My car worked great; no on or off power push. My car turned on a dime but was still stable coming out of the corner. Also if you haven't tried 2.5 degrees of rear toe go for it you will be suprised at how much better your stearing is.

[dgrobe2112]

all good responses..

[dgrobe2112]

but.. only change one thing at a time.. i would start with the front diff.. then i would go to the rear toe block.. after than then i would try the shock oils..

[jmangler1]

Yea I'm gonna change the front diff from tcd to a regular diff and go from their. I'm gonna race it like it is on Friday night ,but I will change it out next week!

Thanks for all the input guys!

[Motorman007]

WOW! D you are helping everyone. nice going man. keep it up.


Its a little straight stretch and then a sharp left turn(180 degree) and then a other 180 degree right turn and the double is right there.


all are very good points guys.

jmangler1:
first off what spur gear are you running?

what swaybar?

tires?

is the track in good shape?

to light in the front will make your buggy diff out to much and not have the pull you need to come out of the turns like u need. try 4


what clutch set up?

toe out?

"""WHAT MOTOR ARE U RUNNING?"""

are you getting to much wheel spin when you give the buggy gas?

are you a fat finger driver?

if so turn down you exp or curves i(f have KO radio?)

are you coming in the turn right?


is your roll center high or low?


see it is a lot more than just adding 3 front diff oil in the buggy and shock oil.


read this man.

http://users.pandora.be/elvo/

i read mines every night all the time.

http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/techhelp/marc/car_handling.html



print this out and read and read and once u think you have it. read it again.

it has helped me a lot.


dibs

[Motorman007]

Yea I'm gonna change the front diff from tcd to a regular diff and go from their. I'm gonna race it like it is on Friday night ,but I will change it out next week!

Thanks for all the input guys!


if you get there early try all kind of stuff.

don't settle with what u have. you will never get faster and know your buggy.

if your track would let you get there early and get on the clock do so.

times don't lie. i know.

i started taking fridays off just this last 3 months so i can run on the clock.

and it helps out a lot.

when i got my sp2 i took off thurs, friday and monday just to get on the clock to see where i fair with the new buggy. and wow!! after this weekend i'm so happy about the changes that i can not wait till this sat again.


put it this way.

D knows Patrick Castleberry and how fast he is. he was the only one at the time to make 13 laps on our track.

Jerald did it 2 weeks a go and this pass weekend.

i was .10 sec from making 13 myself.

take time off and learn you stuff and man u will be so happy.

[jmangler1]

if you get there early try all kind of stuff.

don't settle with what u have. you will never get faster and know your buggy.

if your track would let you get there early and get on the clock do so.

times don't lie. i know.

i started taking fridays off just this last 3 months so i can run on the clock.

and it helps out a lot.

when i got my sp2 i took off thurs, friday and monday just to get on the clock to see where i fair with the new buggy. and wow!! after this weekend i'm so happy about the changes that i can not wait till this sat again.


put it this way.

D knows Patrick Castleberry and how fast he is. he was the only one at the time to make 13 laps on our track.

Jerald did it 2 weeks a go and this pass weekend.

i was .10 sec from making 13 myself.

take time off and learn you stuff and man u will be so happy.


Moto, Thanks for the talk you gave me a big lift! Its funny I actually took off this Friday so I can get their early and practice! I definately want to try different things once I get their! The issues I had in the 2 sections last week really killed my times! If I could get it to do what I want I will be soo much faster! Nobody really had that section down so thats why I want to get it down even more!

[Motorman007]

jmangler1


that's the way to do things.

get there and try all kinds of stuff.

like i listed try them and all. read that stuff tonight if u can.

then go from there.

note: if u change something on the front it will changes something on the rear u like.

trying to find the happy middle is the key..

good luck and have fun.


found some more brain food.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/RC_HandbookV3.pdf

[kmorast]

Here's some info I pulled from the starting grid in regards to diff oil. This was written by Greg Degani.

#81 of 4692 by greg degani (gregd) on Wed Jan 5 16:06:55 2005:

Mike, Run 3000,7000,3000 for Kz. My car was really good there at the
last races..Ive done a ton of testing with diffs the last month, Ive
come to realize that you dont ever need to run an lsd in the front, all
it does is make your car hard to drive through bumps and just in
general. You can run a 3000 up front and turn-in like an lsd but still
have the stability and ease to drive of a diff. If 3000 up front gives
you too much steering run 5000 instead. Running 3000 in the rear is
really the key to the 777. It calms the car down and give it super
stability and traction out of the corners. If your on a super hooked up
track like Hemet that also has a lot of bumps, 1000 in the rear will
probably be better, but everywhere else run 3000.

[jmangler1]

kmorast, Nice find! I will have to try that out!

[dgrobe2112]

That is degani's SP1 setup.. i think the SP2 is different...

http://www.******.net/media/Picture_013---rcp23.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

were you see the ***** type in rc pics

[dgrobe2112]

also... just wanted to post the pic of the old chassis compared to the new chassis..

http://www.rcfiles.com/gallery/data/500/559Picture_012-med.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

notice the center diff, radio tray, and motor and fuel tank, moved back alot futher than the rear diff.. the rear diff is only moved back like 1/2 hole.. where the motor is moved back a complete hole..

[kmorast]

How about a pic with the rear diff screw holes lined up.

[dgrobe2112]

well.. i can take a pic if you want.. however.. if i move the chassis back so the rear screws line up.. then the motor screws and diff and etc.. will be the same distance back.. as the rear diff screws are currently..

[jmangler1]

WOW! D you are helping everyone. nice going man. keep it up.


Its a little straight stretch and then a sharp left turn(180 degree) and then a other 180 degree right turn and the double is right there.


all are very good points guys.

jmangler1:
first off what spur gear are you running?

what swaybar?

tires?

is the track in good shape?

to light in the front will make your buggy diff out to much and not have the pull you need to come out of the turns like u need. try 4


what clutch set up?

toe out?

"""WHAT MOTOR ARE U RUNNING?"""

are you getting to much wheel spin when you give the buggy gas?

are you a fat finger driver?

if so turn down you exp or curves i(f have KO radio?)

are you coming in the turn right?


is your roll center high or low?


see it is a lot more than just adding 3 front diff oil in the buggy and shock oil.


read this man.

http://users.pandora.be/elvo/

i read mines every night all the time.

http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/techhelp/marc/car_handling.html



print this out and read and read and once u think you have it. read it again.

it has helped me a lot.


dibs


MOTO, I was running a RB C5. Nice motor but too much for the track I run at. I changed the motor to and put in a JP Racing Engine FX 21 B-5N Modded version. I as awsome bottom, mid, and top end power! One of my favorite motors! Smoothe delivery also. Kind of reminds me of my V-Spec but just a smooter longer power band. V-Spec has awesome bottom and mid range with good top end. The Jp is smoother and faster! I put Mugen .9 springs with carbon shoes. 13tooth CB with a JP-2 pipe.

I'm good with my throttle control. No phat fingers. There track is smoothe with some loose sand in top also dusty. I ran the Medial pro Turbo tires and was getting good traction. But by the end of the day I notice the spikes on the tires were worn pritty good! You could see that the spikes were worn on a angle. Maby I shoud try a harder compound...

I tried to set myself up alot of different ways for that section and end result was the same unless I went pritty slow. Every time I go to carry speed I just push through the section and cant get a nice drive on the double. If I would try to hit it any way I would definately be off course. Thats one reason I switch out the Rb for the Jp motor. I found my self trying to carry alot more speed in these tight areas just to stay in the C5's power band, With the JP I will have the power on tap and just seems alot smoother for me. The C5 was smoothe but when the power hit it hit hard! Has a ton of topend but I just dont need that kind of power for this track. I need somethig with nice low and mid power. I bet this change will be better alone! My track is very technical and tight with alot of quick jumps and turns.

Thanks for you help Moto! I will read those links in the morning time to hit the sack so I can get up early and go over everything!

jmangler

[dgrobe2112]

that last linnk you posted dibbs.. is the shiz... printing right now..

[nigru]

Hi , just one question. Which tires are best for on-road use eccept the pro-line roadrage for this buggy?? Please give me a lisst!

[dgrobe2112]

actually.. to be honest with you, i use some wore out offroad tires.. they are
some old K2's, Treadz has a very nice road tread, i will have to look and see if i can find it..

I used some proline road rage tires.. they were slick.. the car could do some sliding.. where the old wore out offroad tires..provided alot more traction.. hahah

[Motorman007]

jmangler1: sound to me u need a 48 spur gear.

everyone that i know of runs it.

i run the B7 and werks clutch and i love it.

i don't need little or no run up for any jumps.

sound like u need to come in slow and under control and tap the gas and over u go.

u have that mod motor and no 48 spur.. lol

48 are for tight small track
46 for big track with no traction.
if i can find a 44 for my buggy i would put it on when the track has no traction.

chad B. did last years at the race in Fl for the RC Pro Series race.

glad to help jmangler1: and D.

i'm going to try and make that Waco race..

[dgrobe2112]

Sweet Dibbs... hope to see ya there.. so you can come take our money.. hahahah

[prophead]

..So i've read that the 777 (sp1) doesn't come with any diff or shock oils. Is this true? If so, what brand, and what weights do you Guys recommend for a baseline setup?

Thanks again for any help.

-Steve

[dgrobe2112]

In the SP1, i dont kn ow if it has shock oils.. however.. it does have Red LSD oil, 4k center, and 1k rear in the kit.. not sure what the SP2 has..

[Motorman007]

i use the high $ kyosho shock oil and mugen diff oil.

[jmangler1]

jmangler1: sound to me u need a 48 spur gear.

everyone that i know of runs it.

i run the B7 and werks clutch and i love it.

i don't need little or no run up for any jumps.

sound like u need to come in slow and under control and tap the gas and over u go.

u have that mod motor and no 48 spur.. lol

48 are for tight small track
46 for big track with no traction.
if i can find a 44 for my buggy i would put it on when the track has no tracks.

chad B. did last years at the race in Fl for the RC Pro Series race.

glad to help jmangler1: and D.

i'm going to try and make that Waco race..


Moto, Sounds like you solved 1 of my problems! I run the stock SP1 spur, which is a 46 tooth. I will have to order a 48 tooth and try that out! Thanks man!

[Motorman007]

you are welcome sir.

Dibs

[JamminJay]

I have a ? I would like to resolve asap. I a cam here because i love you guys in this thread, your all so helpful and nice... Anyway, this has to do with my drake truck engine, not my 777...but hey,I figure, a nitro engine is a nitro engine. I went to run my truck today. Started it up, and it ran and idledfine for about 1minute. Then it would idle way up, and I couldn't tame it. and I do mean a minute,maybe a little longer. I dont get it. Even when i refired it, was fine for a couple, then same thing. my idle set screw is adjusted properly and so are the needles. I thought maybe a pin hole in the fuel lines? replaced them both..... same thing. What the heck can this be?

[Motorman007]

I have a ? I would like to resolve asap. I a cam here because i love you guys in this thread, your all so helpful and nice... Anyway, this has to do with my drake truck engine, not my 777...but hey,I figure, a nitro engine is a nitro engine. I went to run my truck today. Started it up, and it ran and idledfine for about 1minute. Then it would idle way up, and I couldn't tame it. and I do mean a minute,maybe a little longer. I dont get it. Even when i refired it, was fine for a couple, then same thing. my idle set screw is adjusted properly and so are the needles. I thought maybe a pin hole in the fuel lines? replaced them both..... same thing. What the heck can this be?



check the tank.
check the carb needle for a air hole
check the carb neck.
what motor?
what carb?
it sound like you have air leak.

check the block to see if u have a hair line crack in it.

[JamminJay]

It is an OS 12cv... less than a gallon on it. funny thing is,i just ran it a couple days ago....and it was fine. Wierd. But I must agree, thats the first thing i thought of too. AIR!!! Ichecked the tank lid seal o ring.....

[dgrobe2112]

there could be a crack in the tank.. what you should do is run it.. see iff you got any excess dirt anywhere.. stickin to the motor or the car.. make sure your backplate is sealed really well.. i use stuff called Air Seal by Racers Choice.. also.. same thing with the carb neck as well..tighten head bolts.. tighten the carb neck screw also.. that is a place for air leaks as well..

[JamminJay]

ok i'll see what happens. thanx.

[isseym88]

How about ride height for the SP2? How do you guys go about it? How far should I adjust the screws for both the front and rear suspension arm?

For the shock weight for the sp2 shock, I am using mugen shock oil, what weight is best to start with? currently I am using 500 front and 400 rear.

By the way, I also use 4mm preload on both front and rear shock like mika did. Is this too little? Most sp1 setup is using 12 mm and 14mm preload...

[dgrobe2112]

for ride height, i set the front so the front unis are just above level, and the rear are level, the rear, i set the droop screw so it hits the chassis right when the rear shocks bottom out.. the front is full droop..

[matrix_mimi]

I am considering getttig a sp2. Anyone know a shop carrying it in USA? good price?

[kmorast]

http://www.amainhobbies.com/ is selling the SP1 with the conversion kit and free shipping for $659.99. I also saw a SP2 on e-bay w/free shipping for $645. Last time I checked there were 2 for sale.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KYOSHO-MP777-SPECIAL-2-VERSION-SP2-SP-2-KANAI_W0QQitemZ5996746250QQcategoryZ49213QQssPageN ameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[JamminJay]

I am just curious about how you guys clean your cars. I usually douse <sp> it down good with either denatured alchohol, or NON-chlorinated brake cleaner, then shoot it with the air gun. This works fairly well. Anyting i miss I use a detail brush, or rag. Well, I have a buddy who does that as well, but goes one step further and after that sprays it with wd-40, then the air gun again, he said not only does it help lube and prevent corrosion and rust, but it makes the plastic look new again and next time the dirt doesnt stick as bad. I have to admit other than having a constant "wet" look to everything, it did look sharp, and seems effective. I was just wondering if any of you use wd-40 as well? will it harm anything? Thanx.

[dgrobe2112]

matrix.. 254-666-8020, call for a great price..

[dgrobe2112]

I am just curious about how you guys clean your cars. I usually douse <sp> it down good with either denatured alchohol, or NON-chlorinated brake cleaner, then shoot it with the air gun. This works fairly well. Anyting i miss I use a detail brush, or rag. Well, I have a buddy who does that as well, but goes one step further and after that sprays it with wd-40, then the air gun again, he said not only does it help lube and prevent corrosion and rust, but it makes the plastic look new again and next time the dirt doesnt stick as bad. I have to admit other than having a constant "wet" look to everything, it did look sharp, and seems effective. I was just wondering if any of you use wd-40 as well? will it harm anything? Thanx.

I use WD40 also.. but im not a big fan of it.. cuz it leaves the car greasy feeling.. i only use WD40 in areas like bearings.. and unis.. and stuff like that.. i dont douse the whole care..

[JamminJay]

Ok, I know what you mean about the "greasy" feeling, but I have to admit, it does look nice, and it seems like the "dirt not sticking so well next time" makes sense, however, it would prolly stick worse until you clean it due to the greasiness. I guess what I am really after is will it harm the plastics? Thanx for your reply.

[AreCee]

Dirt doesn't stick any more or less after you wipe it down with WD-40. I just spray the stuff on a brush and then use that to "clean" up the plastic. It will dry and not feel greasy at all.

[JamminJay]

Ok so once again...no harm is done to the plastics?

[SGTBailey76]

I have used this method for years, and it has never damaged any of the plastic.

[JamminJay]

K, thanx guys ;)

[Mika]

I use WD40 also.. but im not a big fan of it.. cuz it leaves the car greasy feeling.. i only use WD40 in areas like bearings.. and unis.. and stuff like that.. i dont douse the whole care..
I used to use WD40 also but hate having it greasy these days, so I use only water and compressed air, the car does not have to shine - it is enough to get the sand and dirt off..and then use some towel and old toothbrush to finalize..just like DG only to important places
Just came back from racing.. had our national race for two days, 50 drivers all over the country (we are small you know) ... damn, so close to A-main, but lost to another Kz guy in semis eventually my place to continue.. SP2 excellent to drive, Kz & RB rocks. Next time will do better! In the A-main, Xray 1st, then 4 SP2's 2nd, 3rd and 4th, then one HoBao at least and one more Xray, don't recall the rest...

[jmangler1]

Well had a good time at the races this Friday but DNF. I quilified for 5th in the A main. I could have done better no doubt, but I was running my JP B5 in the first heat I was almost half track ahead of second place and I started to notice that I was running funny. It sounded hot! Each lap The motor was getting hotter and hotter, but I was so far ahead I was just cruising at half throttle. It just was super hot and I new it was going to go but I as almost done and just had to go alittle more, at this point I got caught by a few of the guys and they blew right by me. Finished 7th. Got to the put and tried to sping my CB and the plywheel turn too. I had a back up P5 all ready to go and I droped it in and Finished 2nd in the next heat. The guy that beat me was a regular at the track every Friday. He was fast as ****! I new in the main he was going to pick it up. Its ok since it was my first time at this track.

In the A Main start at the first turn some of the guys just flew in Kamakaze stye and there was a pile up! I got T-bone hard as hell put a little dent in my pipe. After I got marshall I had my work cut out for me. I was putting down some classic moves and eventually got my way up to first. I was wondering the 1 fast guy was and sure enough on the next lap he was about a turn in a half behind me. I was sandbaggin it since I really didt know the track that well and I was up front. I kept seeing everone else crashing so I wasn't sweating them. He catches up to me and I pick it up a couple notches we were battleing tough but really clean. The anoucer though for sure one of us was going to crash and eventually he made a mistake and I jetted. Sure enough I screw up and he gets closer then I messed up again and ended up on my lid! He got by and I was satified knowing I could run his pace and it was my first time at the track! I was just running my own race not making mistakes and I went to lap these 2 guys and I took the inside and it shut off! I didnt know what happend but I was still happy because I was doing well in the A main. I'm checking out the buggie to see what happend and I Ran out of gass!! That sucked! It was only a 5min main and I'm good for 7 to 8min. I filled it up and it fired right up with no leaks.... The only thing I can think is when we had that pile up in the first turn and I was on my lid maby somehow my lid opened up and gas came out? Oh well I still had a blast!

[dgrobe2112]

Thats what its all about.. having fun.. sux about the B5 running hot..

[jmangler1]

Yea it did suck with the JP B5! That thing was running fast as heck! I just took it apart and one of my clutch shoes broke right where it goes around the pin. I'm done with regular clutches! I always have problems with them! I picked up my Fioroni adjustable clutch Saturday and put it on today. I'm going to the track Monday, I will let you guys know how it works!

[Mika]

It will work fine as long as the shoes are new..just keep them renewed once in a while. Maybe a bit on the soft side unless you shorten the springs but otherwise ok. Never did that though. Today, the Kz reg 3-shoe is the only option for me.

[jmangler1]

Hey any of you guys have this problem.. I have my buggy sitting on the stand and I turn the wheel with my hand and notice that the steering Ackerman rubs the diff case. I run full drop in the front. Should I shim it so it doesn't rub the diff case... Remember that I have it on the stand and the suspension is fully extended because I have full droop.

[SGTBailey76]

Hey any of you guys have this problem.. I have my buggy sitting on the stand and I turn the wheel with my hand and notice that the steering Ackerman rubs the diff case. I run full drop in the front. Should I shim it so it doesn't rub the diff case... Remember that I have it on the stand and the suspension is fully extended because I have full droop.

First set it on the ground so the arms are closer to running height and see if it still does it. Full extension puts the steering links at some crazy angles, so I would not be suprised if yours is fine when the arms are close to level.

[jmangler1]

First set it on the ground so the arms are closer to running height and see if it still does it. Full extension puts the steering links at some crazy angles, so I would not be suprised if yours is fine when the arms are close to level.


Yea it is fine when not at full extension, but I was just curious if you guys bug's did the same thing.

[prophead]

Could any of you tell me what size nut drivers are required to assemble an SP1 kit?

Thank you.

[jmangler1]

Could any of you tell me what size nut drivers are required to assemble an SP1 kit?

Thank you.


I know alot of them are 5.5mm

[dgrobe2112]

jman.. i havent had that issue of it rubbing on the diff case.. i dont knwo what to say.. also.. the nut driver that you need for 90% of the car is 5.5mm

[Mika]

Hey any of you guys have this problem.. I have my buggy sitting on the stand and I turn the wheel with my hand and notice that the steering Ackerman rubs the diff case. I run full drop in the front. Should I shim it so it doesn't rub the diff case... Remember that I have it on the stand and the suspension is fully extended because I have full droop.

Got a pic? I dont have that kind of problem sorry

[JamminJay]

Well,I finally got a chance to do the process of elimination on my CV, for my drake. It seems what is happening is when the brake is applied the throttle arm is spinning on the barrel past shut, then when it goes back to idle, it pulls the carb open too far. I have had this problem before, and I ampretty sure last time I applied threadlock <maybe it was my last engine> I can't remember. Anyway, any1 else have a solution? On the Cv this is the nut on the outside of the low-end needle.

[jmangler1]

Got a pic? I dont have that kind of problem sorry


I think I know what is wrong with my steering ackerman. I was trying to tighten up te diff screws and they were fine. When I tried to tighten up the 2 smaller screws that screw into the Front Lower Arm Mount they would not tighten up. So since they are stripped out I think its not pulling the case down far enough, therefore it is rubbing the top of the case when the suspension is fully extended. I'm going to upgrade to Fioroni mounts so hopefully that will help it out and I will get her nice and tight.

[Mika]

OK
If you use B blocks meanwhile would it help (with new parts, plastic not stripped). Also worth testing mine was really good (many commented that afterwards, too)

[jmangler1]

OK
If you use B blocks meanwhile would it help (with new parts, plastic not stripped). Also worth testing mine was really good (many commented that afterwards, too)


What do you run the H and B blocks?