Inferno MP777

[Mika]

H
20 caster

[jmangler1]

Huy guys, I want to change my front TCD diff. Can I just open it up and take out the insides and replace them with regular diff internals?

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. you need cross pins, 6 different gears, and the pins that go behind the big sun gear.. go to tower hobbies, they have the cross pins for clearance.. howeve.r. they are out of stock on all the other parts you need..

[dgrobe2112]

maybe amain hobbies has the other parts you need..

[jmangler1]

maybe amain hobbies has the other parts you need..

Thanks DG, I was looking at Amain and they didn't have a list for any of the diff parts other than the case and ring and pinion gears. I will try a few other places. Thanks!

[AreCee]

A-Main has all the parts but may be out of stock on the gears, just look up the numbers in your manual and make your own list.

You need: IF39, IF101, IF102, BS107, ORG06, 1162.

[J_Bone]

My LHS had them. I just got the diff gear set and diff pins. Was like $15 for both. Cheap and easy to replace.

[Mika]

Question: How many of you guys (or other racers if know) have lately switched from Hobao (ofna) to Kz? Or the other way round?

[AreCee]

I switched from a Hong Nor 9.5 Pro to the 777. I like the 777 better but I also liked the 9.5 too. The 9.5 is much easier to drive but the 777 handles tight tracks better.

[J_Bone]

Question: How many of you guys (or other racers if know) have lately switched from Hobao (ofna) to Kz? Or the other way round?

ME...From Hyper 7 to 777.

[Mika]

Thanks guys!
AreCee, driving original 777 (not SP2) ?
J_Bone, what's your experience so far?
Other thoughts? Personally I'm sticking with my Kz but many folks recommend Hobao, so I'm looking for drivers who have done the switch and why and what's the experience so far. You can also send email mika.rinne@kolumbus.fi if you don't want to share it here. Thanks!

[jmangler1]

Hey Mika, I run with a buddy that drives a hyper 7 pro. I switched with him and drove his buggy for a tank. All I can say is that my 777 does everything alot better! It still a nice bug though and its cheap. I wouldn't mind haveing one as a back-up bug, but I'm going to pick up my cousins 777 sp1. He has every Fiofoni option on it, and giving me a great deal! I'm goint to get the SP2 chassis for that and convert my SP2 into a truggy!

[Skribble]

Hey Mika, I run with a buddy that drives a hyper 7 pro. I switched with him and drove his buggy for a tank. All I can say is that my 777 does everything alot better! It still a nice bug though and its cheap. I wouldn't mind haveing one as a back-up bug, but I'm going to pick up my cousins 777 sp1. He has every Fiofoni option on it, and giving me a great deal! I'm goint to get the SP2 chassis for that and convert my SP2 into a truggy!How are you going about the conversion? I'm thinking of ditching my Revo and going with an SP2. Run the buggy until the Mugen conversion comes out ..

Anyone think the SP2 is overkill for a first buggy? Only nitro vehicle I've had is the Revo.

[jmangler1]

How are you going about the conversion? I'm thinking of ditching my Revo and going with an SP2. Run the buggy until the Mugen conversion comes out ..

Anyone think the SP2 is overkill for a first buggy? Only nitro vehicle I've had is the Revo.


Naa, I dont think it is overkill! Kyosho is top notch stuff and as you get better you wont have to really upgrade. Personally I think there is a big difference in getting a top notch bug vs a cheaper bug. For instance a ofna TQ , mayhem or somthing along those lines. They are all nice, but you have alot better quality of product, like plastics, alot more tunability as far as the geomitry of the buggy with a 777/prospec/xb8/jammin.

As far as the truggy thing. Soon enough boyz! Chech it out! http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php?cPath=44_50&products_id=4090

[jmangler1]

Hey guys, I'm converting my diff from tcd to a regular diff. I think I got everything I needed but not sure. Here is what I ordered part numbers BS107, IF102. If I'm missing anything please let me know! I want to try out the new diff this weekend! I fogot to order the pins though (IF39). I hope that the ones in their will work! If it has them. I never took apart a TCD....

[Skribble]

As far as the truggy thing. Soon enough boyz! Chech it out! http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php?cPath=44_50&products_id=4090Kyosho is releasing a truggy based on the Inferno -- Hm .. Maybe those arms would work on the SP2? Those rims are dope.

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products/car_bike/monster_truck/inferno_st/28inferno_st/28inferno_st-j.html

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products/car_bike/monster_truck/inferno_st/28inferno_st/img/02.jpg
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products/car_bike/monster_truck/inferno_st/28inferno_st/img/03.jpg
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products/car_bike/monster_truck/inferno_st/28inferno_st/img/08.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

to be all honest with ya.. that looks like its based off the 7.5..

[Smoothy]

Hi guys, this is my first post here!
I'm finishing my study's this year and i'm going back home and looking forward to getting back into the Hobby.
I'm looking at the 777 sp2 but i run on a smooth track with fast sweeping corners where Lsd or thorsen diffs were nearly absolutely necessary I have my old MP - 7.5 with center and front lsd's i was planning on selling it to a friend of mine but before i do this i wanted to know if many parts a interchangeable between the 7.5 and 777
notably the diffs?
If many of the parts and screws are interchangeable it may be more interesting to keep the old car for parts.

Another question, i was looking at the new engines and i was curious as to what's working right now, the new OS seems nice but i don't wan't to take a chance, it seems like there reliability has droped off with the latest RZ B T V- spec I've had RB's in the past and i always had luck with them so how does the new Worlds S7 x2 or 3 compare to the latest engines?
i'm not really a fan of low end torque monsters like the P5's any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks.

[fearlessone]

A friend of mine has a P5 with EBMODS.com full mod on it. And its the fastest engine ive seen yet on topend. The thing just screams it head off. He has 4 gallons on it so no of a to lean problem. He cant wait to buy another one.

Or should I say I cant wait! Ive ran them all too.. that P5 is the fastest with that mod. PERIOD!

[jmangler1]

Hi guys, this is my first post here!
I'm finishing my study's this year and i'm going back home and looking forward to getting back into the Hobby.
I'm looking at the 777 sp2 but i run on a smooth track with fast sweeping corners where Lsd or thorsen diffs were nearly absolutely necessary I have my old MP - 7.5 with center and front lsd's i was planning on selling it to a friend of mine but before i do this i wanted to know if many parts a interchangeable between the 7.5 and 777
notably the diffs?
If many of the parts and screws are interchangeable it may be more interesting to keep the old car for parts.

Another question, i was looking at the new engines and i was curious as to what's working right now, the new OS seems nice but i don't wan't to take a chance, it seems like there reliability has droped off with the latest RZ B T V- spec I've had RB's in the past and i always had luck with them so how does the new Worlds S7 x2 or 3 compare to the latest engines?
i'm not really a fan of low end torque monsters like the P5's any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks.

I had a WS& and it ran great! Bottom end was not crazy like the V-spec or P5. It was easier to drive and had really good topend.
I run a stock p5 which I really like and I drive a JP Racing FX 21 B-5N which is the sickest motor I drove yet! It has so much power everywhere! The bottom ed and mid remind mo of my V-spec and the top reminds me of my moded C5. As a matter of fact I pulled that motor out in place of my stock Rex P5, It has too much power. When I become a better driver, maby then I can use it. To be honest with you I really like the V-spec! I think it has the most bottm and mid of and motor I have ever driven! The top end is also good. Its just those motors dont seem to last to long. I have two of them. I got more than 4 gallons in the one and the other sucked dirt. Alot of people at my track have not had luck with the longevity of these motors. I will keep my fingers crossed!

[jmangler1]

Kyosho is releasing a truggy based on the Inferno -- Hm .. Maybe those arms would work on the SP2? Those rims are dope.

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products/car_bike/monster_truck/inferno_st/28inferno_st/28inferno_st-j.html

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products/car_bike/monster_truck/inferno_st/28inferno_st/img/02.jpg
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products/car_bike/monster_truck/inferno_st/28inferno_st/img/03.jpg
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products/car_bike/monster_truck/inferno_st/28inferno_st/img/08.jpg

Dude that thing looks BAD A$$! All the kyosho's looks the same tome as far as the chassis goes. Looks like my 777 SP2 basically. I wonder if you can just pick up everything you need to convert it to the truggy... I like this far more than the MSR-777T

[dgrobe2112]

Smoothy.. the OS vspec is having reliability issues, one thing though, when the Vspec gets hot.. it dont die.. i seen one running 335 this weekend.. and never flamed.. who knows.. maybe its supposed to run hot.. however, bearing issues are a big deal, i also seen a Vspec break a rod on the gate this weekend also.

The diffs, diff cases, front lower blocks, and front bumper blocks are interchangeable.. between the 2 cars..of course the screws will interchange, the clutch and flywheel and stuff will interchange..

As far as motor.. well.. i heard they revamped the WS7II with the new X3, and said its supposed to have more bottom, but stay smooth.. i am a big fan of the P5. Any engine that is that fast, and last as long as they do.. got my vote anytime..

[J_Bone]

Well I finally got to drive my SP-2 today. WOW, it's dialed. I'm impressed with how it handles!!

Here's my setup:
front 50w oil
1.4 piston
middle hole in front tower(SP-1 inside is same hole)
inside hole for shock on arm
22 caster block
Upper Block H, Low A block
ride height front bones just above level
5000 diff oil
steering in middle hole in rack
full droop

Center
48 tooth spur
13 clutch bell, stock clutch
7000

Rear
40 w oil
2 deg anti squat
3 deg toe
hubs back
camber link long and in lower hole in tower
upper inside hole in tower
inside hole in arm for the shock
bones level
3000


Now that I got my setup right, I'm also in the marklet for a new engine. But I think I'm going to cheat. I'm getting a Sportwerks .26 for $120 and run that. A few other guys run it and my local track will allow it. They say it just as fast as a Moded high end .21 engine. So for the cost, You can't beat that performance...hehe..

[Skribble]

Dude that thing looks BAD A$$! All the kyosho's looks the same tome as far as the chassis goes. Looks like my 777 SP2 basically. I wonder if you can just pick up everything you need to convert it to the truggy... I like this far more than the MSR-777TAre there any pictures of the MSR-777T yet?

I'm thinking: Kyosho MP777 SP2 + Mugen MSR Conversion + Inferno ST Suspension = Dialed! :D

Although the Hellfire looks promising -- And probably 1/3 cheaper. :(

[jmangler1]

Hey guys I have a nice set of crimefighters on a set of wheels that I want to get off! They are like brand new. I dont know how but after the last race I went to grab the tire and I noticed it was like a rock. They were glued all the way around. I just dont know how they got loaded with dirt! Oh well, I'm trying to get them off whats the best method!

[kmorast]

Hey guys I have a nice set of crimefighters on a set of wheels that I want to get off! They are like brand new. I dont know how but after the last race I went to grab the tire and I noticed it was like a rock. They were glued all the way around. I just dont know how they got loaded with dirt! Oh well, I'm trying to get them off whats the best method!

I use acetone. Pour a litre or more into a closed container such as a paint can and then stick a tire in it over night. when you pull the tire out the next day it will just fall off the rim. Be carefull, you shuld wear gloves because it really dries your hands out.

[dgrobe2112]

with that method.. you will need to replace the foams.. some people use their oven i heard.. however.. i dont.. cuz i dont think the wife will enjoy the smell of backed rubber in the kitchen.. hahah

[Mika]

Well I finally got to drive my SP-2 today. WOW, it's dialed. I'm impressed with how it handles!!

...

Now that I got my setup right, I'm also in the marklet for a new engine. But I think I'm going to cheat. I'm getting a Sportwerks .26 for $120 and run that. A few other guys run it and my local track will allow it. They say it just as fast as a Moded high end .21 engine. So for the cost, You can't beat that performance...hehe..

Nice! :)
Bigger block engines have more torque but lack rpm, so don't expect to beat high end racing engines ;-)

[jmangler1]

Nice! :)
Bigger block engines have more torque but lack rpm, so don't expect to beat high end racing engines ;-)


Wow... Your friends are a little off their! I have owned almost every high end bigblock out their and That's definately not true! They make some great torque but their not all that in the upper rpms. Their .21's that are just as sick on the bottom end and will carry power all though way trough to alot high rpm's than a bigblock! They(big blocks) are fun though when they are in truggy's and MT's!!! I had a LSP with a EB Mods top 28 8 port and that this was crazy fast! That mach is super for the price though, A good practice engine. You definatly will have to go with a .21 for racing, just you can get better fuel milage!

[gixxer]

I'm going join you guys soon :) . I just purchased some missing part 777 special 1 from tower for like $50 and it was missing parts without drivetrain diffs, shocks, arms and more. I'm going to take my Kanai and do a swap :D. Total conversion would cost about $200. My question to you guys is what diffs should i run? Regular diffs for front/rear or all? I have both TCD and regular.

[kmorast]

Run the regular diffs in all positions.

[AreCee]

Thanks guys!
AreCee, driving original 777 (not SP2) ?

It's not even a SP1. I just upgraded with SP1 shock towers, u-joint center and rear shafts and King Headz braces. Saved beau coupe bucks doing it that way and it performs as good if not better than the SP1. Will I go to a SP2, I doubt it.

[Mika]

Wow... Your friends are a little off their! I have owned almost every high end bigblock out their and That's definately not true! They make some great torque but their not all that in the upper rpms. Their .21's that are just as sick on the bottom end and will carry power all though way trough to alot high rpm's than a bigblock! They(big blocks) are fun though when they are in truggy's and MT's!!! I had a LSP with a EB Mods top 28 8 port and that this was crazy fast! That mach is super for the price though, A good practice engine. You definatly will have to go with a .21 for racing, just you can get better fuel milage!
Ok, thanks for the correction...actually never owned a big block (>.21)

[Mika]

Regular diffs for front/rear or all? I have both TCD and regular.

It has been discusseed quite a bit that seems reg diffs are better for SP2 at least. Most run 5K-7K-1K (-3K), no TCD increases consistency and you can "pump" the gas plus jumps better most cases.

TCD requires more steady gas and can be good for SP1. Having TCD in front SP1 seems to like heavy rear diff like 5k or so. So the setup could be TCD-4K-5K to tame the rear. Many racers changed the reg diff in front for SP1, though.

[JamminJay]

I was just curious if any of you have weighed your cars? I was kinda amazed to find out my sp1 only weighed in at 7lbs. 13oz. fully loaded. My Drake weighed in at 4lbs. 6oz. fully loaded. These both seem kinda light?

[gixxer]

It has been discusseed quite a bit that seems reg diffs are better for SP2 at least. Most run 5K-7K-1K (-3K), no TCD increases consistency and you can "pump" the gas plus jumps better most cases.

TCD requires more steady gas and can be good for SP1. Having TCD in front SP1 seems to like heavy rear diff like 5k or so. So the setup could be TCD-4K-5K to tame the rear. Many racers changed the reg diff in front for SP1, though.

Thanks, it's dissapointing that the regular diffs are faster after all that marketing gimmic :cool:

I think my diffs are leaking from the set screw. Do you guys put locktite on that little pinion type screw that goes into the plastic of the diffs. I'll probably take it apart from the conversion.

I realize that the SP2 chassis is longer. Does the center Kanai universal joints work on sp2 chassis or is it again a different length?

[J_Bone]

Wow... Your friends are a little off their! I have owned almost every high end bigblock out their and That's definately not true! They make some great torque but their not all that in the upper rpms. Their .21's that are just as sick on the bottom end and will carry power all though way trough to alot high rpm's than a bigblock! They(big blocks) are fun though when they are in truggy's and MT's!!! I had a LSP with a EB Mods top 28 8 port and that this was crazy fast! That mach is super for the price though, A good practice engine. You definatly will have to go with a .21 for racing, just you can get better fuel milage!
You say it and it's ok??? hhmm

Well, the Sportwerks .26 has more performance than the Mach. But if you use the large insert, it sucks gas. Use the small or middle inserts and it gets better fuel mileage. With the middle insert, guys get better fuel mileage than my slow RG.
For every week club racing, $130 is a great price for the performance you get!! Almost all the sponsored drivers here use the sport or big blocks to race/practice with. One of them is sponsored by RB and said to get the SW .26 for club racing.
I'm not going to spend $300-$500 on an engine to race a club race. Maybe for the Pro series, Nitro Challenge races but those are .21 only so you will have to find the best .21.

[JamminJay]

I will settle this argument................$260 Rex P5. :D Awesome engine.
I'm just hitting the 3/4 - 1 gallon mark, and it seems to be gaining speed and power each day.

[J_Bone]

I will settle this argument................$260 Rex P5. :D Awesome engine.
I'm just hitting the 3/4 - 1 gallon mark, and it seems to be gaining speed and power each day.

That's a good engine! Not saying other wise.
But it's still twice as much $$. I've seen 5 gallons so far through my buddies SW .26 and the only engine to beat it down the strait was a Novarossi top 421, and it was by a nose. I'm looking at it as a $$ cost down the road for club racing and the performance. I've seen it with my own eyes and it's just hard to pass up.

There are tons a great engiens to choose form and I do need a high end .21 for next season. I do like the Top 421's though.

[AreCee]

Hey guys I have a nice set of crimefighters on a set of wheels that I want to get off! They are like brand new. I dont know how but after the last race I went to grab the tire and I noticed it was like a rock. They were glued all the way around. I just dont know how they got loaded with dirt! Oh well, I'm trying to get them off whats the best method!
The best way without damaging anything is baking them off in an old toater oven used outside (so the Mrs. won't complain of the smell). Bake at 300 to 350 degrees for 10 minutes and using gloves just peel off the tires.

[Skribble]

That's a good engine! Not saying other wise.
But it's still twice as much $$. I've seen 5 gallons so far through my buddies SW .26 and the only engine to beat it down the strait was a Novarossi top 421, and it was by a nose.You're forgetting other factors: Engine tune, gearing, etc.

But I agree -- For club racing, there isn't really a need for a hot engine. But say you go with the .26, and want to race a national/big/etc race -- You have to eventually go with a .21, and the driving characteristics are going to be different.

[jmangler1]

You say it and it's ok??? hhmm

Well, the Sportwerks .26 has more performance than the Mach. But if you use the large insert, it sucks gas. Use the small or middle inserts and it gets better fuel mileage. With the middle insert, guys get better fuel mileage than my slow RG.
For every week club racing, $130 is a great price for the performance you get!! Almost all the sponsored drivers here use the sport or big blocks to race/practice with. One of them is sponsored by RB and said to get the SW .26 for club racing.
I'm not going to spend $300-$500 on an engine to race a club race. Maybe for the Pro series, Nitro Challenge races but those are .21 only so you will have to find the best .21.


I said it and it doesn't mean everyone agree's with me just my opinion and alot of other people's too.. I had a Mayhem with a sportwerks .26 and I had a LST with the Mach .26 both ran strong no doubt! Personally I like the sportwerks .21 better, that come's with the mayhem pro! Ran them both and its alot smoother and just as fast or faster.... Not to mention great fuel mileage! The .26 was balistic, too much for the buggy IMOP. Every since I got into good .21 engines I never looked back into getting a big block. Plus all these motors are overkill anyway! One of the fastest guys at track was running a Hyper 8 .21 and you can get that for a hair over $100. I know it all depends on the driver, you know good TC , but not everyones great with TC(especially me!) so a .21 is better to start with.

[J_Bone]

You're forgetting other factors: Engine tune, gearing, etc.

But I agree -- For club racing, there isn't really a need for a hot engine. But say you go with the .26, and want to race a national/big/etc race -- You have to eventually go with a .21, and the driving characteristics are going to be different.
Oh ya, I'm considering a .21 for the State Championships. True, they will be different. I would have to practice it for a few weeks here and there to get it tuned and dialed.


I said it and it doesn't mean everyone agree's with me just my opinion and alot of other people's too.. I had a Mayhem with a sportwerks .26 and I had a LST with the Mach .26 both ran strong no doubt! Personally I like the sportwerks .21 better, that come's with the mayhem pro! Ran them both and its alot smoother and just as fast or faster.... Not to mention great fuel mileage! The .26 was balistic, too much for the buggy IMOP. Every since I got into good .21 engines I never looked back into getting a big block. Plus all these motors are overkill anyway! One of the fastest guys at track was running a Hyper 8 .21 and you can get that for a hair over $100. I know it all depends on the driver, you know good TC , but not everyones great with TC(especially me!) so a .21 is better to start with.

I considered the SW .21 too. It's faster than the .26? On top end or bottom. My track has 3 sections that require good tires and bottom end to clear them and make good time. In one section, it's a left turn to a drop off and a jump to a table. I have to really set it up to clear. But the high end motor and big blocks are the only ones to clear it by taking the inside. There also is a Triple and jump out. But with the BB's you can quad it and hit the strait with momentum. And yes I'm carrying some good corner speed too and seem to come up short.
So that's why I got a .26 for clubbing it, but will need a good bottom .21 later on. I want to have both on hand.
I shaved 3-4 seconds off my lap times with the .26. Just those sections alone can make or break you.

[JamminJay]

Happy B-day to me!!!!!!!! Send me 777 presents.
I would like 4 new wheels, a new wing, maybe a set of front upper and lower arms. PM me for my address. :D

[isseym88]

Hey my mp777 sp2 kind of having a loose rear (sliding all the time) what could I do to calm the rear down abit ? I am on 5000 7000 1000 all regular diff(no TCD front) Front shock with 4mm preload and 550 mugen shock oil and 500 rear mugen shock oil with 10mm preload.

It is kindly of having a loose rear end according to an experience Mbx5 driver but he says the steering is very responsive and awesome. How can i calm the rear down abit? or shold I learn new skill? I am a newbie driver.


Can anyone help out here?

[jmangler1]

Hey my mp777 sp2 kind of having a loose rear (sliding all the time) what could I do to calm the rear down abit ? I am on 5000 7000 1000 all regular diff(no TCD front) Front shock with 4mm preload and 550 mugen shock oil and 500 rear mugen shock oil with 10mm preload.

It is kindly of having a loose rear end according to an experience Mbx5 driver but he says the steering is very responsive and awesome. How can i calm the rear down abit? or shold I learn new skill? I am a newbie driver.


Can anyone help out here?


I had a prospec to and when I switched to kyosho it definately seemed alot more twitchy! I has alot of steering, so maby just dial some out on your remote untill you get use to it. also are the tire you are running hooking up, whats the track surface like... Maby try a different tire combo.

[jmangler1]

Oh ya, I'm considering a .21 for the State Championships. True, they will be different. I would have to practice it for a few weeks here and there to get it tuned and dialed.




I considered the SW .21 too. It's faster than the .26? On top end or bottom. My track has 3 sections that require good tires and bottom end to clear them and make good time. In one section, it's a left turn to a drop off and a jump to a table. I have to really set it up to clear. But the high end motor and big blocks are the only ones to clear it by taking the inside. There also is a Triple and jump out. But with the BB's you can quad it and hit the strait with momentum. And yes I'm carrying some good corner speed too and seem to come up short.
So that's why I got a .26 for clubbing it, but will need a good bottom .21 later on. I want to have both on hand.
I shaved 3-4 seconds off my lap times with the .26. Just those sections alone can make or break you.


Well our track has some big jump also, and my buddy has no problems with his SW.21 . I guess your track has really short run ups before the face if you can't clear it with a .21.. What ever works for you.

[jmangler1]

Happy B-day to me!!!!!!!! Send me 777 presents.
I would like 4 new wheels, a new wing, maybe a set of front upper and lower arms. PM me for my address. :D


Jammin, happy B-Day !! Hopefully you recieved some cool hop-ups for the 777!

[JamminJay]

Thanx Bro.... I dont really need any hop ups... just spares ya know for the upcoming fall/winter points season.

I hope my gf got me the OFNA ultimate pitbag roller. I need it.

[J_Bone]

Hey my mp777 sp2 kind of having a loose rear (sliding all the time) what could I do to calm the rear down abit ? I am on 5000 7000 1000 all regular diff(no TCD front) Front shock with 4mm preload and 550 mugen shock oil and 500 rear mugen shock oil with 10mm preload.

It is kindly of having a loose rear end according to an experience Mbx5 driver but he says the steering is very responsive and awesome. How can i calm the rear down abit? or shold I learn new skill? I am a newbie driver.


Can anyone help out here?
Not sure of your cars total setup.
Here are a few things to gain rear traction:
1) 2 degrees of anti squat
2) Moving the rear hub forward if it's not already
3) Thinner shock oil
4) Try runing a longer upper A-arm


Jammin,
Happy B-DAY!!

[J_Bone]

Has any one tried these bodies for there 777??

http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/images/illuzion_777_2.jpg
http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/images/illuzion_777_4.jpg

[jmangler1]

Hey guys, I will be listing my 777 SP2 for sale if anyone is interested. Rolling chassis, minus wheels and tires. I also have a brand new unpainted body for it. I'm switching to the XB8 only because my LHS has all the parts for them in stock. I dont have the time to go out of my way and get parts when something happens, so thats why I'm switching! The buggy is awsome and by far my favorite, but For example I broke this weekend so I was done for the day. If my LHS supported them it wouldnt be a problem but they dont. No motor or electronics or wheels and tires. Does come with a clear body and ALOT of extra parts, chassis(sp1) shocktowers(sp1) servo tray(SP1) universale for front and rear, rear a arms, extra rear shocks, hing pins, plywheel, and whatever else I have. $500 will be on ebay so I will post the link for those interested. I only had the SP2 conversion on for a few weeks so its pritty new still!

[J_Bone]

Sorry to loose a Kcar driver..

I'm fortunate enough that my LHS has parts for almost all cars.
But the Xray XB8 is a good buggy too. Two local guys who drove Mugens got sponcered by Xray this year and there lap times have been getting faster and faster and one of them made the Pro A main at the last Pro series race in Hemet, CA.
I'm sure you will do just fine and it does help to have the parts on hand when needed.

[jmangler1]

Sorry to loose a Kcar driver..

I'm fortunate enough that my LHS has parts for almost all cars.
But the Xray XB8 is a good buggy too. Two local guys who drove Mugens got sponcered by Xray this year and there lap times have been getting faster and faster and one of them made the Pro A main at the last Pro series race in Hemet, CA.
I'm sure you will do just fine and it does help to have the parts on hand when needed.


Yea really want to pull it off ebay right now, but when I think of the inconvienience of not being able to get stuff when I want it it just erks me! I love the SP2 but it would make things alot easier if I got an XB8 since they stock the stuff. Plus they are nice cars. My cousin has one and when I drove it it didn't feel much different than the SP2.

[dgrobe2112]

Happy B-day jammin.. Jman.. sux your leavin.. cant say anything about the Xray.. i have driven them, but seems everyones car is loose to me.. so.. i cant say your going to a worse car or not.. to each his own.. good luck.

To tame the rear of your car down, go up in rear diff oils.. try 2k in the rear.. that helped alot also.. run a little more negative camber.. i tried some of that this weekend.. i was running -2, tried -4, then back to -2, noticed a huge difference in the rear end grip.. i now have -4 rear camber.. also.. use the 3 deg toe block in the rear..

[Mika]

Yeah, really sucks loosin JMangler.. Xray seems a fine car..but Kz is Kz.
Here's my setup http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/setup777.jpg
This one is really tame on the rear, was driving with another Kz, Mugen and Hobao cars at the weekend on really rough track and this setup worked really well.

[isseym88]

Thanks guys for the input. will try out the settings this weekend

[dgrobe2112]

Has any one tried these bodies for there 777??

http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/images/illuzion_777_2.jpg
http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/images/illuzion_777_4.jpg

I have not used the jconcepts for the 777 yet, however, i have used it for the 7.5, great body, very stylish, comes with a cool clear blue overspray film, kinda looks like the new audi, or mercedes side mirror blue.. pretty sweet.. almost makes you not want to paint it.. hahaha their bodies are nice and thick, and last a long time.

[jmangler1]

Well guys, I just couldnt do it! I ended my auction and decided to keep the SP2! I was looking at the XB8 all night long and I just couldnt get over the 777! The xray is a nice car and if I was going to switch it would definately be to an XB8 but I love the 777 and I cant see it go!

My cousin has the SP1 with every Fioroni option on it he never drove it, he said it was to nice. Be sure I will drive the you now what out of it! I was going to get it before but backed out. Now that I'm keeping the 777 I will get it and take the SP2 stuf off mine and put it on the Fioroni one. I will convert this one to a truggy when ever I get the kit. He's seling it to me for $800 and alot of extra's so I cant pass it up! Will post pic's when I get it!

I have a question. I know they make the Fioroni SP2 chassis, but have they come out with the shock towers and servo tray yet? Can I use the SP1 Fioroni shock towers for the SP2? I know the SP1 servo tray is different from the SP2 servo tray so that no possible.

[dgrobe2112]

Glad you are staying.. like i said.. the Xray is nice.. however.. seems they are constantly redesigning stuff.. kyosho does.. and used to do it alot.. however.. Xray is doing it a ton, new aluminum radio tray, servo brace, and upper diff mount now.. for more rigidity.. or something like that.. and i have been told.. when they are on.. they are on.. however.. if your not.. good luck.. no in between..

i dont think they have sp2 towers yet from fioroni, or any other naufacturer for that matter.. however.. i think kingheadz.. has alot of holes in their towers.. and might have the new inner holes from the sp2 allready..

However.. yes.. you can use the SP1 stuff on the SP2, the new SP2 towers give one extra hole inside on the front, and 1 extra upper and lower hole on the inside of the rear..

The new SP2 radio tray is the same.. holes and everything line up.. only difference.. countersunk holes.. and its like 1mm thicker..

[jmangler1]

Glad you are staying.. like i said.. the Xray is nice.. however.. seems they are constantly redesigning stuff.. kyosho does.. and used to do it alot.. however.. Xray is doing it a ton, new aluminum radio tray, servo brace, and upper diff mount now.. for more rigidity.. or something like that.. and i have been told.. when they are on.. they are on.. however.. if your not.. good luck.. no in between..

i dont think they have sp2 towers yet from fioroni, or any other naufacturer for that matter.. however.. i think kingheadz.. has alot of holes in their towers.. and might have the new inner holes from the sp2 allready..

However.. yes.. you can use the SP1 stuff on the SP2, the new SP2 towers give one extra hole inside on the front, and 1 extra upper and lower hole on the inside of the rear..

The new SP2 radio tray is the same.. holes and everything line up.. only difference.. countersunk holes.. and its like 1mm thicker..


OK so the only real difference in the SP1 and SP2 is the chassis and the shock towers. The Servo tray from SP1 and 2 are the same except for the counter sunk holes that are in the SP2. If that correct then awsome I can still use the Fioroni SP1 tray on the SP2 chassis. All I will need to complete it is the Fioroni chassis and shocktowers! Cool!

[Mika]

Jmangler, good decision!!! So glad you stayed on Kz .. :D It pays... ;-)

[dgrobe2112]

jman.. the center universals are different also, and the longer rear shock shafts, and springs are different. however.. you can use all your SP1 stuff like radio tray, shock towers and everything like that.. but i think you will need new center unis.. the rear shafts, and the springs make a big difference also.. however.. if you are piecing together an SP2 conversion.. those are not needed.. Also, my LHS has the new shafts, and springs in stock if you wanted to get those also..

[dgrobe2112]

Jmangler, good decision!!! So glad you stayed on Kz .. :D It pays... ;-)

Just curious.. Kz?? your from australia right?? is that what they call it over there??

[Mika]

DG actually I copied it from Greg Degani (I think) :D It's a nice shortening I like it :D (I'm from Finland)
We call it "kioso" or "kössi" or whatever... ;-)

[dgrobe2112]

DG actually I copied it from Greg Degani (I think) :D It's a nice shortening I like it :D (I'm from Finland)
We call it "kioso" or "kössi" or whatever... ;-)

gotcha.. just was wonderin.. hahah

[jmangler1]

jman.. the center universals are different also, and the longer rear shock shafts, and springs are different. however.. you can use all your SP1 stuff like radio tray, shock towers and everything like that.. but i think you will need new center unis.. the rear shafts, and the springs make a big difference also.. however.. if you are piecing together an SP2 conversion.. those are not needed.. Also, my LHS has the new shafts, and springs in stock if you wanted to get those also..


OK thanks DG, I'm going to make my current SP2 a truggy and convert the Fioroni 777SP1 to a SP2. I might pre order the conversion from Amain next week!

[dgrobe2112]

you can contact my LHS, for a better deal.. 254-666-8020

[jmangler1]

you can contact my LHS, for a better deal.. 254-666-8020


OK I will give them a call and see what they have it for.

[fearlessone]

Well guys, I just couldnt do it! I ended my auction and decided to keep the SP2! I was looking at the XB8 all night long and I just couldnt get over the 777! The xray is a nice car and if I was going to switch it would definately be to an XB8 but I love the 777 and I cant see it go!

My cousin has the SP1 with every Fioroni option on it he never drove it, he said it was to nice. Be sure I will drive the you now what out of it! I was going to get it before but backed out. Now that I'm keeping the 777 I will get it and take the SP2 stuf off mine and put it on the Fioroni one. I will convert this one to a truggy when ever I get the kit. He's seling it to me for $800 and alot of extra's so I cant pass it up! Will post pic's when I get it!

I have a question. I know they make the Fioroni SP2 chassis, but have they come out with the shock towers and servo tray yet? Can I use the SP1 Fioroni shock towers for the SP2? I know the SP1 servo tray is different from the SP2 servo tray so that no possible.

what i did was get the sp1 and then tower had the 777 regular on sale for $260. So i bought that also and now i have parts gallore! :D

[JamminJay]

Ok, I guess anyone that knows the true answer to this question can chime in... I just need to find this out.

I would like to know, what difference to the car or handling does how the anti-roll (sway)bars attached affect? If the rod end things (the part that connects the bar to the suspension arm) is closer to the end, versus mounted farther in? I noticed on Mika's set-up his are about 4mm, in....where I have mine set at te very end of the bar. Thanx

[dgrobe2112]

softer setting, in front
increases front chassis roll, and front traction, decreases rear traction, increases off power steering
softer setting in rear
decreases on power steering, increases rear chassis roll and rear traction, decreases front traction

stiffer setting in front, does exactlyopposite as softer setting, gives quicker steering response.
stiffer setting in rear, exactly opposite of softer setting, quicker steering response in high speed chicanes

[JamminJay]

So i am guessing closer to the end of the rod is softer? What are you running yours at? I have mine at the very end in the front and back, and like it so far?

[jmangler1]

Yeah, really sucks loosin JMangler.. Xray seems a fine car..but Kz is Kz.
Here's my setup http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/setup777.jpg
This one is really tame on the rear, was driving with another Kz, Mugen and Hobao cars at the weekend on really rough track and this setup worked really well.

Hey Mika,

I was thinking of switching from L and A block to H and B like you have. I know it has been gone over and over again, but can you explain the difference you noticed between the 2 again. I'm not sure how it affects the car and dont want to get my setup to far outa wack because I might race this Friday. I get confused on how it affects the cars over all handleing!

Thanks
Jmangler

[dgrobe2112]

Hey Mika,

I was thinking of switching from L and A block to H and B like you have. I know it has been gone over and over again, but can you explain the difference you noticed between the 2 again. I'm not sure how it affects the car and dont want to get my setup to far outa wack because I might race this Friday. I get confused on how it affects the cars over all handleing!

Thanks
Jmangler

Jman.. i seen on sgrid.. alot of guys are using the H Block..

[prophead]

Could anyone tell me what part #s I need to convert the LSD to a standard diff?

Thank you,
Steve

[Mika]

Pls see previous page(s)
Parts are also listed in the manual, see the rear diff.

[jmangler1]

Jman.. i seen on sgrid.. alot of guys are using the H Block..

I'm gonna give it a shot DG, thanks !

[Mika]

Hey Mika,

I was thinking of switching from L and A block to H and B like you have. I know it has been gone over and over again, but can you explain the difference you noticed between the 2 again. I'm not sure how it affects the car and dont want to get my setup to far outa wack because I might race this Friday. I get confused on how it affects the cars over all handleing!

Thanks
Jmangler

Sorry Jman, obviously missed this one... I think is less agressive and more stabile .. more forgiving, easier to drive...can be thrown into corners.. closer to old 7.5 (but lighter) .. Use also 20C blocks and gold anti-squat plate
Less pack at rear (1.6mm holes) seems to tame down the rear if very bumpy track

[Mika]

DG, is sgrid a web mag only or do they provide a monthly paper too? Wasn't clear on their homepage.. Seems all interesting stuff requires subscription.

[jmangler1]

Sorry Jman, obviously missed this one... I think is less agressive and more stabile .. more forgiving, easier to drive...can be thrown into corners.. closer to old 7.5 (but lighter) .. Use also 20C blocks and gold anti-squat plate
Less pack at rear (1.6mm holes) seems to tame down the rear if very bumpy track


Thanks Mika, I would definately like it to be alittle less agressive and more stable. It's not to bad now I just have to be more cautous when driveing because the car reacts alot when just trying to do alittle, As far as the steering go's. I like it like that though because it comes in handy when your raceing and you are battling on a tight track with not alot of room to manuver! I got into a situation last race where Their was 3 guys infront of me in this tight rythem section and right after that was a 180 right turn and I passed them all right on that spot because non of them could turn on the power and hold the inside line like my buggy did So it really helped me out their!

[dgrobe2112]

mika.. www.sgrid.com is a website.. that i frequent.. go to the free conferences, and register for a screen name.. its not as easy to navigate as this website.. its pretty tough to get around for a while.. but i am used to it now.. you can view all threads.. or hide threads you dont want to read.. alot of the proguys, like degani, paul coleman, pavidis, and other are on there.. check it out.. takes a while to get used to.

[jmangler1]

Yea that sight is hard to navigate!

[dgrobe2112]

i use the pistachio setting.. easiest for me.. when you log in.. go to
List all conferences
then click on offroad conference
you will see the offroad conference home page..
click on item list, and you will have a full list of all the different threads in there..
Kyosho is item #18, there is all kinds.. like.. Hemet raceway for the nitro challenge, the 2006 worlds thread, for next years worlds, there is all the manufacturers, of cars, trucks, buggies, and motors, some other threads like The World of Formula 1,

Now, next to each thread is a check box, if you click it, then at the top you will see 2 symbols, with arrows in them > to forget, or favor selected items, if there is a thead you dont care to keep up with, then click the check box, and then click forget selected items. If you want to favor one, it will be at the top of the page for you, you can have any amount of favorites, i got 12 favorite threads from forsale, kyosho, treadz tires, Racers Edge, Setup theories, jokes, Formula 1.. Waco RC racway (local track) Pro Series.. then i read alot of other threads, like all the buggy threads, like Xray, Mugen, Ofna, different engines, like Collari, Novarossi, OS engines.. see what people say on all these different threads..

If you want a clean start, at the top of that page, click on Mark as Seen, all responses, and it will 0 out each response.. as if there are no new post..

Now, if you are reading a thread, and get to the end of that thread, up at the top, there is a button called "item List" and it will take you back to your list of threads, and the one you were just reading is now zero'd out..

[Mika]

OK, thanks DG, will check it out...
Jman, on power turning is harder on thi setup, but otherwise good

Here's a vid from our last national race I'm the last guy in semi's (white car #10)
http://teebee.pp.fi/lavangonkisat/M8%20kisa%20sunnuntai%20187.avi
Pretty good footage

[Josh_C]

Can anybody tell me where i can get the SP2 complete kit from? :)

[jmangler1]

Can anybody tell me where i can get the SP2 complete kit from? :)


Amain has them but the are on back order right now http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_75&products_id=3843

Try ebay, thats where I gotmine and I got it for cheap!

[Josh_C]

Sorry, i meant the complete SP2 buggy

[jmangler1]

Sorry, i meant the complete SP2 buggy



My bad I though you said conversion. Here ya go http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php?cPath=44_48&products_id=3844

[Josh_C]

I am looking for the kit which is not just an SP1 with a SP2 conversion kit but just a SP2 complete buggy. The complete kit comes with the standard front diff and different arms. Can't seem to find one though.

[J_Bone]

Hey Mika,

I was thinking of switching from L and A block to H and B like you have. I know it has been gone over and over again, but can you explain the difference you noticed between the 2 again. I'm not sure how it affects the car and dont want to get my setup to far outa wack because I might race this Friday. I get confused on how it affects the cars over all handleing!

Thanks
Jmangler
I know I'm not Mika...but I use to run the L block. I've switched to the H block and it is more stable. What it changes is the roll center. It will raise the roll center and lower the center of gravity. It will not roll as much into corners now. So you get smoother control and it doesn't want to dive in as much. You will still be able to hit the inside of corners!
I run the L block with A block. If you do use the B block, it will lower the center of gravity even more. But I've found the L and A block a good combo at my track. If your track is really ruff, I would try the B block too.

[AreCee]

I am looking for the kit which is not just an SP1 with a SP2 conversion kit but just a SP2 complete buggy. The complete kit comes with the standard front diff and different arms. Can't seem to find one though.
Try http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com, they have it for $675

[Mika]

BTW, is this longer arms a big issue.. never had any problem with the SP1 arms.. :-) Complete SP2 is buggy is nice of course :-D

[J_Bone]

Mika,
If you run the upper arm to the out side hole, it's not a problem. But I have mine in the middle hole and I had a hard time getting my camber to -1. So I got the shorter upper arms, but I only use the A-arm piece and not the end. It works good. If I were to use teh inside hole I would probably use both pieces.

[Mika]

Right, I've been wondering is there something wrong with lower arms (too short?) .. hehe
BTW, my fellow drivers SP2 was 2 mm too long in the race, it can be that in certain setups (no idea when) It is advised in the manual you measure your car length **before** a race to make sure it is in legal length ..

[J_Bone]

Oh, I thought that the lower arms were to short too when I first built it. Since they did offer a shorter upper I got that I assumed that was the problem.??

So, the SP-2 is 2mm too long to be legal? How is it adjusted? I don't have the SP-2 manual.

[dgrobe2112]

wha?? 2mm too long.. like.. front to back?? or side to side?? is that the wheelbase?? cuz wheelbase is adjustable.. i cant see why they would be too long.. did the car fit into the box or not?? cuz.. its the same length as the old 7.5.. multi time world champ..

[jmangler1]

Hey have any of you guys tried to run with this set-up and how did you like it? I changed my roll center. I put in the H and B blocks up front with 22 degree hubs. I was going to put 20 degree hubs, but I ordered them and they still arent in yet, so I'm gonna roll with the 22 degree hubs.

Also, I'm thinking of switching my rear shock from the outside hole on the arms to the inside. Can anyone explain what kind of difference that will make when I do it? Just trying to learn as much as I can before I make changes that way I can understand more that way I can kinda know what to expect when I make changes. Right now I really dont understand all the different things the car does when you make specific changes certain areas of the buggy.

[Mika]

wha?? 2mm too long.. like.. front to back?? or side to side?? is that the wheelbase?? cuz wheelbase is adjustable.. i cant see why they would be too long.. did the car fit into the box or not?? cuz.. its the same length as the old 7.5.. multi time world champ..

Yeah..for some weird reason only one SP2 car was 2mm too long from front axle (hex) to the rear axle (wheelbase) .. so the guy had to adjust the wheelbase and put the 5mm spacer behind the rear wheel. I dunno what was different in the setup compared to other cars but the wheelbase had extra 2mm. Mine was exactly the same as the allowed wheelbase. So for heads-up measure you car before the race.

[J_Bone]

Hey have any of you guys tried to run with this set-up and how did you like it? I changed my roll center. I put in the H and B blocks up front with 22 degree hubs. I was going to put 20 degree hubs, but I ordered them and they still arent in yet, so I'm gonna roll with the 22 degree hubs.

Also, I'm thinking of switching my rear shock from the outside hole on the arms to the inside. Can anyone explain what kind of difference that will make when I do it? Just trying to learn as much as I can before I make changes that way I can understand more that way I can kinda know what to expect when I make changes. Right now I really dont understand all the different things the car does when you make specific changes certain areas of the buggy.

I run the H and A blocks. It's way better than the L block. It took that twitchyness away and soaked up the bumps better. My track is kind of ruff. I'm also using the 22 degree hubs.

Rear shock position:
Moving the shocks farther inward on the tower will create a more progressive suspension.
Moving the shocks out on the tower is better for whoops and berms, since a more linear suspension setup is conductive to soaking up the bumps.

On the arms:
Moving the shock inward on the arms will soften up the rear end and increase rear traction.
Moving the shocks outward on the arms works well when you have traction and want more corner speed and better landings of jumps.

[jmangler1]

Cool thanks jbone! I'm slowly starting to put this whole suspension deal together so it starts making sense to me. Before I would just move stuff around instead of figuring out what it does. Thanks again all you guys are a great help! I will be raceing tommarrow on a small technical track. Cant wait!

[jmangler1]

Hey guys, I just got a new body, so I will be sporting a new look for tomarrow race. Check it out... I'm going to post a link to some pictures, if it ask to log in use this (nitro@nitro.com) as the log in name and use this (nitro) as the password . It is some website where I can post free pic's so me and my friends use it.I would post them right on here, but I dont know how to do so....

http://www.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=29269020/t_=20818281

[Mika]

send me the pic(s) I can the linking here mika.rinne@kolumbus.fi

[Mika]

Some pics of Jman's really nice SP2 below!!

http://www.snrt.net/jmangler/jman1.jpg

http://www.snrt.net/jmangler/jman3.jpg

http://www.snrt.net/jmangler/jman5.jpg

http://www.snrt.net/jmangler/28_2.jpg

Last one is my car hehe

[Mika]

Hey Jman, looking at your car, you have quite a bit of preload in the springs.. I have 4mm in front and 6mm at rear (only).. your ride height is pretty high.. it flips easier?

[jmangler1]

Hey Jman, looking at your car, you have quite a bit of preload in the springs.. I have 4mm in front and 6mm at rear (only).. your ride height is pretty high.. it flips easier?

No it doesn't flip over easy, I have 15mm(60wt oil) in front and a 10mm(40wt oil). At the last track I was at I was just trying out different things and I liked that the best. I started out with a 5mm in frt and nothing in back and wound up with that. It was working best for the track i was on. I was haveing others issues that day so I wasnt totally focused on my suspension, I want to start all over again next weekend and see if I could really get her dialed in!

[jmangler1]

Well boyz, I had a really great time today at the races! I finished 3 in the A main(15min)! I had 2nd wrapped up,but at the 10 min. mark I started to get anxious and I crashed my way to 3rd! I was kinda mad at myself for screwig up but in the end its all fun! It was my first time at that track and I did fairly good. The owner was suprised at how good I was and the 2 guy's who finished before me congradulated me on how well I did for a 1st timer at the track. They were all great guy's! I had the one section down and thats were I did alot of passing. Everyone was going double double, were I was quadrupaling it and then theirs a sharp 180 and a quick double. I had it down. The track had very little tracktion and was very hard pack! I didnt like my set-up their! I didn't change anything other than my tires. I switched from Tredz Grip 2's to Crimefighters. They worked better on that track! Everyones car was pushing in the turns so I figured I would just adjust my driving style so I get better steering in the turns. I had to change my line comming into and leaving the turns. All in all it was a great day! Had lots of fun and met alot new people into the hobby and interested in trying other track that I run at!

[rgb24]

Can someone please post there sp2 complete setup and what type of track you run on. Also what tires you run on the track. thanks

[Mika]

Congrats Jman!
rgb24 navigate to prevoius pages for setups

[dgrobe2112]

jman.. is that the same track you were askin about that one time.. or a different one.. congrats on the podium finish..

[jmangler1]

jman.. is that the same track you were askin about that one time.. or a different one.. congrats on the podium finish..


Nah, it was a different track a few towns over. It is bigger and just as technical. Definately alot of fun, but the throttle finger will kill you on that track! Sometimes I would get so anxious and my 777 would look like it was on rollerskates! I would pull on that trigger alittle to much and forget about it!

Thanks for the congrats guy's!

[jmangler1]

Hey guys, will the 20 degree hubs give more or less steering than the 22's????


thanks

[J_Bone]

Hey guys, will the 20 degree hubs give more or less steering than the 22's????
thanks
The 20 degree will give you more quick and twitchy steering. It makes corner entry quicker but loose on exit. Will give you more oversteering too. As far as radius, it will be the same.

[jmangler1]

Jbone, thanks!

[dgrobe2112]

20's give better turn in off power, less turn out.. not loose on turn out.. 22 gives better turn out.. on power.. not as good turn in.. i have gone to the 20's on my SP2

[jmangler1]

20's give better turn in off power, less turn out.. not loose on turn out.. 22 gives better turn out.. on power.. not as good turn in.. i have gone to the 20's on my SP2


I just got mine in dg so I'm going to put them on. I didnt have much off power steering at that track so I hope this helps!

[dgrobe2112]

also.. check your toe out.. that may help out also.. i try to run around 1.5 toe out.. helped tons.. when i did the sp2 conversion, i bought new steering rods.. and had my car setup with .5 toe out.. i just changed it this weekend.. and wow.. huge difference..

[dgrobe2112]

if your track has any long sweeping turns.. where the car will push while putting the power donw in the turn.. the 22's will work..like this weekend.. there was this huge "daytona turn" is what the called it.. long back straight, then a long turn all the way around to the front straight.. i needed the 22's then..

[jmangler1]

if your track has any long sweeping turns.. where the car will push while putting the power donw in the turn.. the 22's will work..like this weekend.. there was this huge "daytona turn" is what the called it.. long back straight, then a long turn all the way around to the front straight.. i needed the 22's then..


Yea it does have a turn like that, but the rest of the track is very tight! Alot of quick turns and quick little jumps. I had to go really slow to get tight into those turns. At first I was trying to come into the turns quicker and I kept pushing wide, so I had to come in with less heat. I notice a few of the fast guy's were able to carry more speed into the turn.


I was curious and have been wanting to try changing my diff fluids to 3frnt, 5cntr,3rear. Has anyone tried this and how did you like it?

[J_Bone]

My track has 3 90 degree corners and they are real tight. I run 5-7-3 in my diff's with the 22 degree hubs and I have no problem hittin the inside line of all the 90 degree corners. I actually gain time there on the field.

[jmangler1]

My track has 3 90 degree corners and they are real tight. I run 5-7-3 in my diff's with the 22 degree hubs and I have no problem hittin the inside line of all the 90 degree corners. I actually gain time there on the field.

I really want to try 3 in the rear just to see how it is. I just dont want to loose any steering and gain push in the turns. I just diffs off so easy when I come out of the turns and one tire gets alittle loose!

[kmorast]

I've run 3-7-3, 5-7-3 and 5-7-1 back to back. The 3 in the rear helped get the car out of the corner better and didn't affect turn-in. The 5-7-3 settled the car down ever so slightly making it easier to drive on a lower traction track. 3-7-3 gave more turn-in but also made the car more difficult to drive fast since it was a little more on edge but just two weeks ago I used it at a different track and it worked great. This past weekend I raced at a fairly large race. There were only 3 777's, one of them was a SP1. I placed second and the other SP2 placed first; I couldn't even begin to tell you where the SP1 finished. The guy who won was running 4-7-3. I believe he's sponsored in some way by Kyosho and he gets a lot of good info from other Kyosho sponsored drivers. We talked briefly about diffs and he felt 5 in the front would have worked better for the track we were racing on. Bottom line who the heck knows what is better; you need know what you want from your car and tune it to match that. I keep several diffs on hand with different oils so it's easy to try different diffs right at the track.

[jmangler1]

I've run 3-7-3, 5-7-3 and 5-7-1 back to back. The 3 in the rear helped get the car out of the corner better and didn't affect turn-in. The 5-7-3 settled the car down ever so slightly making it easier to drive on a lower traction track. 3-7-3 gave more turn-in but also made the car more difficult to drive fast since it was a little more on edge but just two weeks ago I used it at a different track and it worked great. This past weekend I raced at a fairly large race. There were only 3 777's, one of them was a SP1. I placed second and the other SP2 placed first; I couldn't even begin to tell you where the SP1 finished. The guy who won was running 4-7-3. I believe he's sponsored in some way by Kyosho and he gets a lot of good info from other Kyosho sponsored drivers. We talked briefly about diffs and he felt 5 in the front would have worked better for the track we were racing on. Bottom line who the heck knows what is better; you need know what you want from your car and tune it to match that. I keep several diffs on hand with different oils so it's easy to try different diffs right at the track.

There is so many different combinations to try< I just dont know which way to go. I might just try 3 in the rear. I run 5,7,1 right now. If I just change the one I can see what it does and wheather I like it, and work from their. I was also thinking of lowering my center to 5 or 6....

[dgrobe2112]

so.. its awful quiet in here.. whats everyone up too.. i did some racing the last couple weekends.. car is great.. the SP2 has gotten a bit of a push.. i am trying to figure out if its an off or on power push.. i did work on some different stuff this weekend.. tried light shock oil.. mugen 350, same as associated 30.. worked really well with the stock blue springs.. but the car is still pretty bouncy.. i wonder why guys are going up in shock oils.. car dont do the rough as good as the mugen.. wondering if i can get a softer spring.. with softer oil.. i think that may do some good..

Also, tried 3k in the rear diff.. 5/7/3, and that helped stable the car.. when the track got loose toward the middle of the night..

[Mika]

Yes, 777 SP2 won the local hobao cup here yesterday, I couldn't attend... gonna run-in my SBK21evo2 today .. nice to get smokes out of it before the long winter
http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/sp2sirio.jpg
http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/sirio.jpg

[jmangler1]

so.. its awful quiet in here.. whats everyone up too.. i did some racing the last couple weekends.. car is great.. the SP2 has gotten a bit of a push.. i am trying to figure out if its an off or on power push.. i did work on some different stuff this weekend.. tried light shock oil.. mugen 350, same as associated 30.. worked really well with the stock blue springs.. but the car is still pretty bouncy.. i wonder why guys are going up in shock oils.. car dont do the rough as good as the mugen.. wondering if i can get a softer spring.. with softer oil.. i think that may do some good..

Also, tried 3k in the rear diff.. 5/7/3, and that helped stable the car.. when the track got loose toward the middle of the night..


Yea it was quiet in hear! Did the 3k in rear make you puck at all? Yea I had a prospec and they are very good in the rough stuff! I started my shocks off with 40frnt and 35rear shock oils, NOw I have 60wt in frnt, and 40wt in rear. I was haveing alot of unpradictable kick-ups and was just very unstable, so I kept changing oils and adding some preload. I got it pritty good. Thats when I noticed that the bold for my Chassis was not in. That is why my bug was hopping around like a rabbit! Now I'm probably wAAAAy off!!

The track I'm raceing at next week is pritty tachnical. Some elevated section, sharp turns, nice rhyteme section if you get alittle out of shape you will definately crash, and a Monster jump! Biggest jump I ever seen! Any Ideas on which why I should go with my shock oils????

[jmangler1]

Man its so quiet on this board! I feel like the Donkey from Shrek when he's like "I'm all alone!"

[J_Bone]

I've narrowed my shock oil down to 50/40. That seems to be the best for my track. With 60 in the front, it would bounce off ruts and bumps. With 50 it seems to be a good balance with the SP-2 and 40 in the rear.

When I first built mine, it would crash real easy when it got off balance or bumped. It was too easy and my old Hyper 7 was more stable. I junked the LSD and use the H Block it has gotten more stable so I can drive hard into corners with out unsettling it.

[TRF-Inferno]

Hey guys, just got a MP777 regular kit for $285. This is my 4th buggy, joining the ranks of 2 Hyper 7's that is still in my posession and the MP7.5 that I sold off a year ago due to financial reasons. I may have some questions soon and hopefully bring some life back into this thread.

[Mika]

SBK21evo worked pretty well yesterday, car was fast and easy to drive. Seems like a good engine, too

TRF, on regular 777 (non-SP2) some guys have used heavier diff oil at rear, like 5K

[jmangler1]

SBK21evo worked pretty well yesterday, car was fast and easy to drive. Seems like a good engine, too

TRF, on regular 777 (non-SP2) some guys have used heavier diff oil at rear, like 5K

Really they use that much heavier diff oil? What is that much different that you would need to run 5 in the rear? If I put that in the SP2 it would probably drive like a mach truck through the turns.

I was actually thinkinng of giving that motor a shot. I run a Rex P5 right now and was thinking of gettting something with a little less power so it will be easier to drive. Did you ever run a P5 and how do the 2 stack up against eachother?

[jmangler1]

Does anyone know if they are actually going to come out with Fioroni SP2 shock towers??

[kmorast]

Does anyone know if they are actually going to come out with Fioroni SP2 shock towers??
I don't know if they will be coming out with Fioroni SP2 shock towers. But I bet they won't; the only real difference on the new shock towers is the lower holes being removed from the front shock tower, correct.

[jmangler1]

I don't know if they will be coming out with Fioroni SP2 shock towers. But I bet they won't; the only real difference on the new shock towers is the lower holes being removed from the front shock tower, correct.


I'm not sure... I should have matched the 2 towers up before I completed my conversion so I can see for myself. I think DG did that though... I'm going to go back some pages and see if he posted that info.

[J_Bone]

I don't know if they will be coming out with Fioroni SP2 shock towers. But I bet they won't; the only real difference on the new shock towers is the lower holes being removed from the front shock tower, correct.

That and the Sp-2 has one more inside hole. So the middle hole on the SP-2 is the inside hole on the SP-1.

[Mika]

Really they use that much heavier diff oil? What is that much different that you would need to run 5 in the rear? If I put that in the SP2 it would probably drive like a mach truck through the turns.

I was actually thinkinng of giving that motor a shot. I run a Rex P5 right now and was thinking of gettting something with a little less power so it will be easier to drive. Did you ever run a P5 and how do the 2 stack up against eachother?

There was two P5X's on the track and there wasn't so big difference in speed, quite equal. haven't run personally but compared to C5 this seems easier to drive and almost as fast, no problems in bottom-end power.

Yeah, thats what I've heard re 777 from fellow drivers but they've run TCD in front with heavy rear diff.

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. the upper inner hole on your SP1 towers is the same as the middle hole on the SP2 towers, they added one hole in the inside.

On the rear, they added (1) set of holes, upper and lower in the tower.. however.. i have found, that i am not able to run the inner most holes on my towers right now with out having clearance issues.. i have contacted the company, and they will look into it..

[dgrobe2112]

On my SP1, the 3k did the trick.. on the rear diff.. i am like Jman right now.. working out some pushing issues.. i drove another SP2 the other day.. and it turns a ton.. however.. it feels loose.. maybe its just my driving style.. i dont know.. i will have to compare cars.. and see what is different on his car than mine..

[jmangler1]

On my SP1, the 3k did the trick.. on the rear diff.. i am like Jman right now.. working out some pushing issues.. i drove another SP2 the other day.. and it turns a ton.. however.. it feels loose.. maybe its just my driving style.. i dont know.. i will have to compare cars.. and see what is different on his car than mine..

Yea I have to just change my diff fluids and see how it goes. I'm 5k/7k/1k right now. Im going to change it to 5k\7k\3k ad see how I like that. If i push to much I much lighten up the front to 3k and if I still dont like it, maby I will put 5k or 6k in the cntr.

[dgrobe2112]

i didnt like 6k in te center.. but try it.. it may work for ya..

[kmorast]

I read that 6k in the center diff works on really bumpy tracks.

[J_Bone]

I've been running 7K in mine with good results. I might try 5K just to see ho wit works.
Here's how bumpy my track is. FYI: IT's Bobby Tillman with his Mugen truggy.
http://extremehobbiesproductions.com/pics/TillmanMt3.jpg

[jmangler1]

i didnt like 6k in te center.. but try it.. it may work for ya..

I just got back from the track, doing some practice. Goeing to race on Friday. I'm going to try 3k in the rear for the race. I would like to get some practice with it first but may not have time. I'm going to run 5k/7k/3k and I'm changing my front hubs from 22 degree to 20 degree. I think 1k in the rear is just alittle to loose for me.

[Motorman007]

7 in the center is a lot for the avg. racer.

only the pros use it.

Note: someone that i know high up the food chain said us avg racer need to start with 5 in the center.

only time to run 7 is on a smooth track that don't get bumpy.

reason behind this is that 7 puts to much force to front and rear.

which in turn makes it harder to drive b.c. your center is not diff ing out.

and it depend on your motor too and clutch.

if you have a super bottom end motor. 7 is way over your head. if you are running a soft bottom end motor then 6-7 is the ticket.



what i have learned talking to the Higher ups is that you want as little or no wheel spin when you get on the gas.

why do you think kanai and JK run the 2 carbon shoes and 1 alum. it's so it want hit hard.

why do the guys look like their corner speed is super fast b.c. they have no wheel spin coming out of the turns.

if u can look at some vid from the worlds 1.8 and 1.10 truck

and ele. and 1.8 onroad.
little or no wheel spin is the ticket.

train yourself to do so and you will get fast.

easy said but hard to do.

think about driving a gas truck. if you hit the gas to early in 1.10 truck spin you go....

if you like blowing tire and tration and it makes you feel better. go a head and do so.



you can take what i say with a grain of salt. ;-** i'm just trying to help.


D knows me i want lie to you guys.

again just trying to help.


dibs



>>>>>
diffs are just one part of getting you stuff running right.

shocks placement
sway bar
springs
roll center
all of this plays a part.


PT on the track as much as you can.
learn and learn

[jmangler1]

Nice to hear someone else's thoughts! Every little bit helps!

I have a question for you guy's on frnt and rear shocks.... Is their a standard you go by for setting your preload clips or do you just go by the feel of the car... I dont know if you guy's understand what I trying to say, but here and example of what I getting at

Say you put 60wt oil in front , is their a standerd set preload clip you add like say a 10mm clip.
If I put 40wt in the rear do I automatically put a 4mm clip in??? Just curious... I always start off with nothing than work my way up until it feels good for me going around the track.

777SP2
Rght know I have 60wt oil in the frnt with like 14mm clip and 40 in the rear with 10mm I beleave. When I look at what everyone else is running it seems I'm useing way to much preload. When I race I usually am one of the faster guys so maby it just depends on each individual driver. Anyway this always bothers me so I figured I'd ask!

[Motorman007]

preload is done by car.

if you take 9 to get a little over bone then so be it.

also how are you building the shocks
with rebound or not?

also check you bladders if you run the kyosho

[jmangler1]

preload is done by car.

if you take 9 to get a little over bone then so be it.

also how are you building the shocks
with rebound or not?

also check you bladders if you run the kyosho

I never used to mess with the shocks as I'm new to raceing and setting these things up. I been through alot of mt's and now i'm into the bug's. I had quite a few bug's and I finally settled into the 777SP2. I always liked Kyosho just never had one! Not to get away from the topic, I basically just drain the oil fluid put new fluid in and make sure i'm not getting any bubbles and stick it back together. Then I set the car down and make sure that when I compress the suspension the a-arms come up to parallel at least . Then I take it to the track and go from their as far as adding more preload or taking it away. Thats about it... If their is a cetain technique that should be used I'm all ear's!

[AreCee]

Preload is just setting the static ride height of the buggy, that's all it does. Preload does not change the shock's damping or the spring rates, those are determined by which weight oil/piston and spring thickness used.

I just add the spacers so that my front arms are parallel to the ground and the rear bones are parallel to the ground.

[Mika]

Kyosho bladders tend to break easily. It's a good idea to buy a set of shock bladders and change them once in a while when changing shock fluids.

[Motorman007]

Are and Mika are right about the shocks bladders.

I would like to say all you guys are super and help out a lot.

Jman what you have to do is find out what works for you.

find a starting set up for YOU! and move stuff around and time yourself.

what you have to understand is that you don't drive like Mika or Are or Me or D or Mark P. or Tebo.


believe me if i known the stuff i know now back in the 80's i would be the next Mark P. hahaha

these guys had help from the old guys like Cliff from AE and in the south all we had was OVAL. the guys in Cal were running offroad but mostly onroad and these guys learned set up and when to do what and what it would do to the car or buggy.


what i'm trying to say is don't worry about your set up so much.

just go out and drive that thing and try any everything out.
never rule out anything.

[adrianderekluna]

mmm... just blew a 1/3 of my wad.
http://www.unethkl.com/rctrack/1.jpg
http://www.unethkl.com/rctrack/2.jpg
http://www.unethkl.com/rctrack/3.jpg
http://www.unethkl.com/rctrack/4.jpg
http://www.unethkl.com/rctrack/5.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

believe me if i known the stuff i know now back in the 80's i would be the next Mark P. hahaha.

more like paul coleman.. hahah.. j/k

[jmangler1]

adrianderekluna , Nice going! S5 is a sweet motor!

[Motorman007]

yeah PC.hahaha

D when i'm going to see you again sir?



$1400
u just started..

wait till you add in 4 more servo's
4 motor motors

2 pipes
New Shoes.
boy are you going to need Shoes.

like $500 worth of shoe (tires).

good luck and keep MAMA happy and you will be ok..

[adrianderekluna]

haha. totally. you think the aluminum shoes are gonna wear out fast? i've always had good luck with them in the past. that combined with 1.1 springs. even mixing aluminum with carbon for torque.

i'll have an extra piston and sleeve ready for the RB, my buddies want me to get the picco 7 port, but i'm more of a C5 kind of guy. used to have the rody, it was a blast.

[J_Bone]

I never used to mess with the shocks as I'm new to raceing and setting these things up. I been through alot of mt's and now i'm into the bug's. I had quite a few bug's and I finally settled into the 777SP2. I always liked Kyosho just never had one! Not to get away from the topic, I basically just drain the oil fluid put new fluid in and make sure i'm not getting any bubbles and stick it back together. Then I set the car down and make sure that when I compress the suspension the a-arms come up to parallel at least . Then I take it to the track and go from their as far as adding more preload or taking it away. Thats about it... If their is a cetain technique that should be used I'm all ear's!
It depends on how your track is. My track is fuff and not smooth, so I set mine so the dog bones are slightly above level. But when I go the the track out on the West side, I set them level. It's just ride height and the more bumpy, the more ride height you want. If it's smooth you lower it to lower your ride height. There is no one setting for oil weight or any thing else. It's just a ride height adjustment.

haha. totally. you think the aluminum shoes are gonna wear out fast? i've always had good luck with them in the past. that combined with 1.1 springs. even mixing aluminum with carbon for torque.

i'll have an extra piston and sleeve ready for the RB, my buddies want me to get the picco 7 port, but i'm more of a C5 kind of guy. used to have the rody, it was a blast.
My Aluminum shoes hold up ok. I file the burs off after each race and they are due to be replaced soon. I've seen a lot of people use 2 carbons with 1 Alum. with good results. For me, I just use one or the other.

As far as engines go, use what you are comfortable with. Picco's are good, but I have not had any good experiances with them. I prefer Novarossi's myself. RB's are good and if yo uhave good luck with them, stick with it!

[adrianderekluna]

rad, thanks! here's my old buggy with the C5 rody on it. http://www.unethkl.com/rctrack/Aliso9.wmv felt like a .26 on a 1/10th scale. ha! same color scheme lid too. hehe. love the flourescent orange. :D

It depends on how your track is. My track is fuff and not smooth, so I set mine so the dog bones are slightly above level. But when I go the the track out on the West side, I set them level. It's just ride height and the more bumpy, the more ride height you want. If it's smooth you lower it to lower your ride height. There is no one setting for oil weight or any thing else. It's just a ride height adjustment.


My Aluminum shoes hold up ok. I file the burs off after each race and they are due to be replaced soon. I've seen a lot of people use 2 carbons with 1 Alum. with good results. For me, I just use one or the other.

As far as engines go, use what you are comfortable with. Picco's are good, but I have not had any good experiances with them. I prefer Novarossi's myself. RB's are good and if yo uhave good luck with them, stick with it!

[dgrobe2112]

Dibbs.. dont know... been doing the invites here.. and the I35 series lately.. dont know when i will make it up toward dallas area any time soon.. we may have to all get together.. talk to MD, see how many we can all get together @ JCG, or SR hobbies.. and make a big weekend of it.. dont forget.. The Icebreaker will be coming up soon too.. stay posted on Sgrid..

Adrian, I think by NEW SHOES, he meant sets of wheels and tires.. not clutch shoes.. :p bug looks great though..

[adrianderekluna]

oh those. at ultimate they're $15 premounted for 2, not bad.

rc is a money pit. so rad. haha.

[fearlessone]

Yeah Whatever Adrian!

Dont be learning a good setup... you know mikey still gonna open whoops ARSS on ya!

[adrianderekluna]

hahaha. you always beat me mikey, it's cause you set your mx3 throttle arc to 1/2. i always ran out of fuel before you made it to the first burm then you kept on going.

[Mika]

Great video adrianderekluna! And welcome to the board!

[adrianderekluna]

hey thanks.

a fella named tom shot and edited it though. i wonder if he still makes em?

[fearlessone]

Adrain,

Dont use the TCD front diff.. I sold mine right off the get go. Use the standard. ( You have to buy one) No one uses the TCD. SO START SHIMMIN YOU FOOL! :p I just heard from everyone here that it drives better without it.

Another smart thing i did was i bought a regular 777 kit also from tower when they were getting rid of kyosho products. So i picked up one for $280. So I have all the extra parts i'm ever going to need.. WOO HOOOOOOO. MINE MINE.. ALL MINE! :D Thats were I got my extra diffs... bearings, arms, SHIMS, Universals, shall i keep going?.. hehehe..

[jmangler1]

Well boyz this race didnt go so well. First off I had to do alot of work to my bug before I even ran it. I upgraded to Fioroni chassis F/R chassis braces, toe blocks, front suspension cariers,wheel scraper, And K-Factory hinge pins. I also had to change all my diff fluid, I went with 3/5/3. All these things were last minute things and I was unable to do it all before I left. I managed to do the diffs, the rest I planned on doing when I got their. I left 3hrs early so I can get their when the doors opened an have plenty of time to finish up. Well I wound up being in traffic for 4hrs, so when I got their I was just rushing to get everything done. I get it all done and the heats were just starting. Never got to practice on the new track its completly different than last time. I get out their and was in 5th place when my buggy went hay wire and took off straight into the woods! Needless to say DNF.

Second heat I took the lead in turn 2 and the guy behind me nailed me and sent me off track and no marshalls saw me. I was yell marshall! to get there attention and they just didnt hear me. By the time I got marshalled the guy that was 4 cars behind me was almost completely around the track again. After I lost so much time it just messed up my time so I was pissed off and was driving like crap!

I wound up gettng into the b main. 4th outa 6 guys... When they start us out I took off and some guy jumped right infront of my car and I nailed him in the ankles. I thought for sure he was hurt. After making sure he was OK, I finally get to the first turn and I'm already a turn behind everyone. I wound up getting into the lead and pulling a nice little lead actually in the next few laps. I was in cruise control just running my race and start to catch-up to some guy's to lap them. I hit this nice double, bouble,double or I was double tripple single. and when I landed on the downside of the last hill my car just flamed out with only 1min left??? I ran out and my pit guy helped me fire it back up and I was back out their, but it took to long and I was a lap down by that time. I finished last! But I still had a good time and hopefully I will do better next time! I know I could of easily won the b main, but the a main guys were definately ripping. The fastest guy was averaging over 18mph laps! And this track is technical!

[jmangler1]

Oh yea I like the car with the 3/5/3 in the diffs. I liked it better then any other set up by far. I had all the steering I wanted! on power off power you name it! I wasnt as twitchy either. That going to be what I stay with from now on..

[J_Bone]

Sorry to hear about the frustrating night. That sucks. It's always a test session when you change thing though.
Good to hear how the diff setup worked for you. I definitely like 3K in the rear! Did you change any thing else, like run the H block or B block??

[jmangler1]

Yea, I running H-B blocks, 20degree hubs, 3frn/5cnrtr/3rear. Another dumb thing I did, I was tightening down my B block to the chassis and it was getting pritty tight when I snapped the dumb bolt! Is the anyway I can get that little bolt out. When it snapped it broke off inside the hole and nothing is sticking out so I can grab it.

[J_Bone]

Oohh..You might have to replace the gear box assembly. Or try grinding a small slit in it and use a flat head screw driver?? I did that a few years ago and I had to replace the housing.

Or if you have one of those Craftsman screw outs...Craftsman screw outs.. (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/search.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&keyword=screw+out&displayTarget=searchresults&bidsite=CRAFT&vertical=SEARS&x=0&y=0)

[adrianderekluna]

what shock oil setup do you guys use for your buggies? 40 front, 35 rear?

[fearlessone]

60 - 40 :D

[JamminJay]

50-30wt :D any questions? LoL

[adrianderekluna]

yeah i ran 60-50 today and it sucked... gonna go 40-35 tommorrow.

50-30wt :D any questions? LoL

[jmangler1]

yeah i ran 60-50 today and it sucked... gonna go 40-35 tommorrow.


I run 60-40 and it works for me. Everyones different.

[J_Bone]

Depends on the track. I run 50-40.

[supralative]

WAHOO
just got me 777 SP1 too J Bone!!!!
LOL
selling Jammin X1 CR Pro

[jmangler1]

Superl, welcome in! Its definately a bad A$$ bug!

[J_Bone]

WAHOO
just got me 777 SP1 too J Bone!!!!
LOL
selling Jammin X1 CR Pro

HAHAHA...Nice!! Glad to see it!! You wont' be sorry!!

[dgrobe2112]

60/35, car is stupid dialed right now.. dont know what i have done.. got the same setup i have had for a while.. with the exception of 3k in the rear end.. thats the only change i have made to the car.. consistant lap times.. very predictable car..

Results (http://www.jlapracemanager.com/cgi-bin/JLapViewResults.exe?Where=RCRaceway) , check out the results link.. expert 1/8th.. the car is so consistant.. check out the lap times..

[J_Bone]

I have noticed that 2-3K in the rear helps out with control.

I'm very happy with my setup and I don't plan to change it.

[Motorman007]

Look at you D.

TQ and WON..

and Mr. :) was right behind you.

wow!!

man nice going man. really nice.


i made some changes also, but i went backwards. :( .


so going back to my old set up.



if you Beating up on Mr. :) then for sure you buggy is work great.

keep it.

[dgrobe2112]

Thanks dibbs.. you know something.. watching Joor the way he drives.. consistant.. and on the same line.. is what i have been trying to do.. and man.. its starting to pay off..

yeah.. bug working good.. smiley had a half lap lead till the last 3 laps.. he made some mistakes.. the lap times show him behind by 1 second at the end.. however.. a turnmarshal got him and put him over 3 lanes to catch up.. caught him on the last lap.. made a pretty sweet pass.. then he over drove the car in the end.. he told me he would cruise until i gained on him.. he would use his perifferal vision to see where i was in compared to him.. like.. he was going over the triple as i was down the straight.. then if he hadnt made the triple when i was on the straight.. he would push.. that sorta deal.. racing the gap.. then he made some mistakes.. i caught him.. and just happened to catch him where my car was the best all night.. i dont think he had a chance in that section..

Smiley been off the last couple weeks.. my car been great.. BTW.. diffs.. are 5/7/3

[J_Bone]

BTW.. diffs.. are 5/7/3

That's what I run. I made me alot more consistant too!

[JamminJay]

Congrats on the great finishes DG. :)

[dgrobe2112]

thnx man.. big race this weekend..

[JamminJay]

yea it sux for me....I really don't have the finances to race this fall/winter points series. I have played with the idea of selling out, but I can't bring myself to it. If you knew me personally and my health issues, you would tell me know just like my gf. Basically right now all I have is her and RC, and i'm not trying to lose either one, but $ is tight, and it kills me to see them sit there. we have like 2 acres so I bash around right now in the yard, but its MI and snow will be here soon. If I do race it will only be maybe 1 show a month. (which doesn't say crap for a points series) :(

[Mika]

DG, are you using K Factory captured hinge pins w/ Sp2 ? Opinions?

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. and i love them..

[Mika]

Great! Considering, too. What about brake dics - fiberglass or stock ?

edit: I actually went and bought a set of K Factory captured hinge pins and then fiberglass disk brakes. I also decided to try out some carbon for a change on the decks, do you think it is gonna last ? Lots of other vendors are using it so I guess it will last at least for a while hehe :D
Also decided to try out K Factory clutch bell although don't have high expectations comparing to Kyosho. Have you tried ?

[dgrobe2112]

i have tried all that stuff.. i use Craddock disc brakes on my car, rather than stock, lot easier to maintain, and brake fade is minimal..

when you say carbon on the decks.. you mean, radio tray?? and upper steering plate?? i used both of those.. the piece above the steering rack didnt last long, the ends broke.. but i think i used an inferior company.. i am still using the radio tray in carbon fiber.

I use Kfactory clutch bells, and have no trouble with them at all.. some have had problems with them, i have never had any trouble.. and for the price.. you cant beat t hem..

[jmangler1]

DG, are you using K Factory captured hinge pins w/ Sp2 ? Opinions?

I just got k-factory hardend hinge pins. Whats the deal with the captured hinge pins???

[dgrobe2112]

the captured ones are what you got i am sure.. they should have lock nuts that go on one end..

Also, just for you guys fixin to put them on, i put the lock nut towards the rear, on the rear toe block, the front lower hinge pins, get the nut behind the front bumper.. and the front uppers, the nut works better behind the upper block..

[fearlessone]

TRUE. I found out the hard way when the steering wouldnt turn due to it hitting the nuts on the ends of the pins. :rolleyes: Nuts behind the front bumper!

[Mika]

Thanks for the info guys! So it seems I made good decision re new parts, nice. Carbon parts are the radiotray, front upper deck (above steering plate) and center diff top plate. I don't think these are making a difference really but added them just for the bling factor :-) Parts are made by company named BRP (not sure if it is the same that can be found by googling); they weren't that expensive so it may be that I stick with the stock parts, let's see. If those make the car bit lighter and it makes a difference then why not ;-)

[jmangler1]

Yea I also put he nuts towards the back of the car in the front and had to take it all apart after I realized their was no steering!

[dgrobe2112]

i did too.. hahaha.. and.. i put the nuts toward the front on the rear of the car.. for the rear toe block.. and it works.. but changing diffs means i gotta take out the complete hinge pin.. and forget that.. hahah..

[jmangler1]

any special tool you use to stop the flat head side from turning when tightening and loosening the nut? I found it to be a real PITA trying to use a screw driver!

[dgrobe2112]

i got a scribe that i use, has a pointed end on it, that i use to get dirt out of screws when i need to take them out.. i stick that in on one side.. is is kinda a pain, but it works..

[jmangler1]

Thanks for the idea!

[Mika]

guys, are you all using anti-rollbars front and rear? Original MP75 came without rollbar in front (only rear)

[dgrobe2112]

i am using them on both.. yes.. front and rear.. i think the rear has the thicker bar.. cant remember off the top of my head.. stock setup from the book on those..

[J_Bone]

I run both front and rear sway bars with the ends flush.

[RustlerBoy]

i run aon a tight track, would it be better to run swaybars?

[dgrobe2112]

i would run them.. probably softer or thinner swaybars.. more traction..

[dgrobe2112]

and like Jbone.. mine are flush with the ends..

[fearlessone]

ditto.

[Mika]

i run aon a tight track, would it be better to run swaybars?

Yes, swaybars are good for turning. But if your track is very bouncy then swaybars might take off some traction. Always run with rear bar, for front you might loosen it or take off completely if track is not flat / has poor traction.

[dgrobe2112]

here is mine.. :) from this weekends invitationals.. Drew Vaugh took the pic..

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a379/Mong088/8th1.jpg

[JamminJay]

and like Jbone.. mine are flush with the ends..


Flush here too.....

Nice body DG, I like that paint.

[dgrobe2112]

just wondering.. does any of you guys have an editable setup sheet.. that can be done on the computer?? im not too computer savy.. to make one.. just wondering if yall have..

[Mika]

No..I've been thinking creating one..so far only paper. Xray has a nice web based sheet.
Your car looks great! I'm surprised you are not using the new blue springs.

[dgrobe2112]

i do use the new ones.. those are the new green ones for the SP2.. they are very similar to the old SP1 blues.. the track this weekend was so messed up.. i had to get a softer spring..

[Z-tuner]

I need to know ifthe protoform crowd plazer 7.5 fits the 777?

http://www.prolineracing.com/proline/bodies/3108/3108.jpg

[Mika]

i do use the new ones.. those are the new green ones for the SP2.. they are very similar to the old SP1 blues.. the track this weekend was so messed up.. i had to get a softer spring..

Really, wow, I did not know these are even out yet :D

[dgrobe2112]

ztuner, it will fit the 777, however, you need to do alot of cutting.. also.. some of the holes dont line up.. and the body is alot wider than the mp777 body.. i would not reccommend getting it..

yes.. there are green, soft, and white, hard springs.. i cant ever see needing the hard springs.. maybe on a high bite track.. that will never rut up.. but thats about it.. if you are interested in getting a set.. let me know.. our hobby shop has them..

[Mika]

Folks, here's my new 777 Proline body with Sirio SBK21evoII
http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/fr.jpg

Here's my C5 Buggy with a brand new a head from U.S.A ;-) Old one was quite worn out

http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/c5.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

sweet.. i like the paint job.. nice an simple.. looks fast.. that head.. what was it off of?? shouldnt the fins be facing forward??

[Mika]

Thanks DG, yeah it turned out quite well considering it's painted using cans only, stickers make a difference and at least it looks fast indeed :)
The head is made by Crazy Nut Racing and bolt holes are laid out so that it looks like this, here's one more with body on http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/flnc5.jpg
And finally, the wing is CL-1 wing (GS racing), suits with the proline body nicely
Actually I bought the engine head for my Rex SB01 to replace the ugly blue head of it, but since it's pretty cool on the RB I may keep it (and the original is in so bad shape)

[jmangler1]

Hey guys just curious on your opinions.. I want a truggy and MSR came our with their truggy conversion and I know Kyosho is also going to be making the Inferno St. Which do you think will be the better performer of the 2??? I wanted to convert my SP2 with the MSR conversion, but not sure if it going to be better than the Inferno ST since it was designed from scratch to be a truggy????

[Mika]

Kyosho truggy is based on 7.5, I would personally go 777 based conversions

[dgrobe2112]

JMAN. like mika said.. the kyosho ST truck is based off the mp 7.5, older design.. do the MSR conversion..

[supralative]

Check it out guys.
Newly acquired Kyosho 777 SP1 with some SP2 parts here and there. Save up and do the full upgrade soon.
what some your specific set ups that you are running?

http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Kyosho%20777%20SP1%20002.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Kyosho%20777%20SP1%20004.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Kyosho%20777%20SP1%20003.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Kyosho%20777%20SP1%20001.jpg

[J_Bone]

Check it out guys.
Newly acquired Kyosho 777 SP1 with some SP2 parts here and there. Save up and do the full upgrade soon.
what some your specific set ups that you are running?



Nice pic's Superlative.
The main SP-2 parts you need are the chassis, rear center drive shaft (same length as the front center Uni), shock shaft's and 2 degree rear droop plate.
Of course springs can come later and all other upgrades.

My setup 777SP-2
front
50wt oil stock 1.4 piston
SP-2 blue spring
middle hole on SP-2 tower (inside on SP-1), inside hole for shock on arm
22 degree caster blocks, middle hole in blocks with long ball end and
short upper arm (IF329), 1.5 camber
Upper Block H & Low A block
std sway bar, flush end
ride height front bones just above level
5000K diff oil
steering in middle hole in rack
Full droop

Center
Stock spur
13 clutch bell
Kyosho stock 3 shoe clutch 1.0 springs
7000K

Rear
40 wt oil
std rear sway bar, flush
2 deg anti squat, 3 deg toe, 1.5 camber
hubs forward
camber link long and in lower hole in tower
inside hole in tower, inside hole in arm for the shock
SP-2 blue springs
bones level if bumpy just above level
3000K
Full droop

[dgrobe2112]

looks like he allready has the springs.. i will post a setup this weekend.. one thing i found.. i went from 3k to 1k in the rear.. really helped free up the rear.. also.. the green springs.. really help with donkey kicking in the rough..

[Mika]

I've been running 1K long time and 40wt oil in front, 50wt oil at rear with drilled 1.6 holes, long upper arms, B and Low settings, 20 caster

[dgrobe2112]

lotta different setups.. here is mine.. car is very stable.. buddy drove it.. said he liked it.. compared to his mugen..

front
60wt oil stock 1.4 piston
SP-2 blue spring, however, green spring last time i ran, and liked it
middle hole on SP-2 tower (inside on SP-1), inside hole for shock on arm
20 degree caster blocks, middle hole in blocks with long upper arm, and short ball end
-2.5 camber
Upper Block L & Low A block, bushings, with L and A in upper positions
std sway bar, flush end
ride height front bones just above level
5000K diff oil
steering in middle hole in rack
Full droop

Center
Stock spur
13 clutch bell
Kyosho stock 3 shoe clutch 1.0 springs
7000K

Rear
35 wt oil
std rear sway bar, flush
2 deg anti squat, 3 deg toe, -2.5 camber
hubs all the way bac, (helps with rear donkey kick)
camber link long and in lower inside hole in tower, outer hole in hub
inside hole in Racers Edge tower, 2nd from inside on SP2 tower, inside hole in arm for the shock
SP-2 blue springs, green helped sofen the car, in the rough
bones level
1000K
droop limited, so arms dont over extend shock down travel,

SP2 green springs, very similar to SP1 blues. SP2 blues, little stiffer

[JamminJay]

Is there any other parts to a sp2 conversion kit other than:

the chassis
shock towers,
center cvds,
squat plate,
radio tray,
and springs?


thanx.

[J_Bone]

Is there any other parts to a sp2 conversion kit other than:

the chassis
shock towers,
center cvds,
squat plate,
radio tray,
and springs?


thanx.
Shock shafts, Ti hinge pins and notched lower shock pins and longer steering turnbuckles.


dgrobe2112,
To get rid of some of that Donkey kick, you can stand up the shocks.


People forget, a lot of setups are going to be differnet and it all depends on how your track is or how the track is you are going to drive on.

[dgrobe2112]

thanks JB.. i been trying to do different things.. the car is very predictable right now.. and working really well.. i think i am gonna put the 22 deg hubs in the front tonight..

[J_Bone]

I've found that it's best to change one thing and burn a tank of gas through it. Then you can see what it changed, for the good or bad. I have read that some guys with SP-2's went with a 1K rear diff oil to get rid of the loose rear, which the opposite happened for me. I went up to 3K and it made it more controllable and didn't break loose anymore.

[jmangler1]

Hey guy's I'm going to be putting my SP2 on ebay with a ton of hop-ups and bodies,wheels tires, extra's..... I have decided I'm going to go with a truggy so I have to get rid of the buggy! I have 2 of them. A SP1 with all Fioroni hop-ups and My SP2 with a ton of Fioroni hop-ups. I'm keeping the SP1 and selling the SP2. I figure that it should sell easier since its the newer modle it should be easier to sell! I will post up a link soon as I get it all together and on ebay!

Thanks
Jman!

[Mika]

Jman, I do you really think SP1 is better to keep? Why don't you just buy the truggy conversion for your SP1 and sell the parts you don't need. Where are you located at?

[jmangler1]

Yea, I'm keeping the SP1 and selling the SP2. I have 2 complete buggies. The SP1 will be a truggy soon enough! I cant wait! I will post up all my stuff in a little while! Nothing against the buggy. I ran it yesturday and wound up 3rd in the A main behind some really good drivers! The buggy is just awesome! I have always liked truggies personally. They are way easier to drive and dont get upset easy like the buggies. You can just blitz a section so fast with the truggy where the buggies will get upset. Some track are more suited for bug's and some for truggies. I know it takes a better driver to go fast with a buggy and all, but I just think the trug's just look bad a$$!!! I like the way they jump too! If it gets old I can always go back to the buggy!

Mika, So do yo really like the SP1 better? I'm in the US, I live in the state of New Jersey.

[J_Bone]

Which conversion kit are you using? I've considered the truggy kit too!

[Mika]

Ok, Jman. Actually I'm saying you should keep the SP2 as a buggy and convert the SP1 as a truggy. If you sell your SP2 you will be sorry tomorrow, no? Truggies are cool though, seem to be gaining lots of audience & popularity these days, especially in the US, not so much here in Europe yet, but certainly there is interest. Hot Bodies stadium is especially popular.

[jmangler1]

I want the MSR conversion jbone.

Mika, I'm going to sell the SP2 just because its newer and should sell easier. I will conver the SP1 to a truggy! I have soo many extra parts I can easily build another SP2 if I really wanted a buggy again thats why I'm not sweeting it! I will post a link in a few minutes if anyone is interested.

I had the Hot Bodies Lightning Pro soon as it came out. When I looked over the kit it really didnt impress me at all. It actually looked kind of cheap. But it ran like a bat out of He!! It just doesnt have the quality of the Kyosho or any other top brand! I figured it was only a matter of time before a convsion kit came out. MSR kits look really sweet in person and a guy locally has killed every body in the truggy class! It is definately holding up to the abuse so I will have to step up and give the MSR777 conversion a shot! If I dont like the adapters I can always go native!

[jmangler1]

Here it is boyz!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6006643838&indexURL=0&photoDisplayType=2#ebayphotohosting

[A Main Racer]

Thats kinda high for a used buggy. God luck.

[jmangler1]

Well 2 months old and I have everything you would do to it when you do buy one so if someone would rather save the money and buy one thats already set-up it would be best bet! I wont buy a new buggy again. After you pay $750 for a new one you going to have to hop it up anyway, so start saving your pay checks... All my Fioroni stuff is not even a month old and I only raced it twice since I put it on. I have all my reciepts. Not stupid e-clips on it at all, and most of those stupid philups screws are also out, I changed alot of them to hex! K-factory hinge pins, the list goes on.... Someone will get a good bug! I hate to see it go, but I have anotherone so its not that bad!

[AreCee]

And to think that I could have spent so much more money on hop ups. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to continue racing a stock chassis and place in the A-main as usual.

The real gain is in practice. practice and more practice. Hop ups are only good if they help your bug stay together long enough to finish, most are eye-candy and ego boosters.

[jmangler1]

What ever flats your boat.. I dont have a problem with A-main either. I had issues with my Eclips, phillips strip out pritty easy. Yes it is eye candy but its good eye candy! All the suspension carriers are a definate help also! The babies rock solid! And those stock chassis braces aren't to great everyone knows that! There was 2 races where the front brace actually popped off. Thats enough for me. If you can afford it do it. Rather not worry about not finishing a race because on something dumb! There was also a race where I was leading the A-main and my got stuck going right because my e-clip came off( even with silicone on it) and my pin for my hub was jammed into my wheel. Still finished 2nd though after a quick fix! Glad you have luck running stock. I had issues and made sure their will be no more... Have not had a problem since I replaced anything that I wasnt to sure about.

I have always said this is my favorite buggy! I also think that some kits are nicer though. I think that every kit should have the quality and ease of build that the Xray has.( Not saying the 777 isnt nice though and I think the K-car has the best plastic!) I got the chance to build one and its very nice I must say! You dont even need lock tight because of how they machined the thing. Very sweet! I also built a Prospec and that to is very nice! The TTR S3 I really didn't like to much though.. When it come to performance I think Kyosho is still the bomb though! Of all the buggies I had the 777 was the most agressive and just flat out shines on every track I have been on. It best suits me!

[AreCee]

The cure for e-clips is a little dab of shoe goo, works all the time and been using that trick since the 1980s, also never ever reuse e-clips. I'll agree with you about the braces sometimes popping off and stouter ones can help but it won't take out the buggy if they do pop off. (King Headz on mine and those are the only non-Kyosho chassis part on the bug.)

Phillips head screws usually get messed up by using a #1 tip rather than a #2 like you should be using and the slots should be cleaned before using the driver. The only time I had a stripped Phillips was on the motor mount due to a too liberal application of lock-tite.

But hey, that's what the aftermarket people want you to do and that's spend, spend, spend to solve problems that really don't exist.

[jmangler1]

Yea I did the old silicone trick but still happend.

I tell you what boyz. I picked up a stock TNX(not the pro) and raced it this weekend, boy was I surprised! That little truck is at home on the track! I pulled the whole shot and I smoked the feild lapping everyone up to 2nd place in my first heat and never drove the truck prior to that! My second heat I got all jammed up on the gate and still came in second. Those boyz were hacking away in the back of the pack. I even had a guy jump across the track land on the wrong side and head on with me! Oh well no harm done. Some guys just try to go balistic and get crazy! I had to leave the race though because something came up! I wish I could have stayed! Everyone could not beleave it was box stock! Well almost.. I fogot to mention I put a set of proline max sized wheels with bowties. Other than that I had the stock plastice shocks and all!

Had so much fun with it I ordered the new PBS for it. Next week I will get the Power Strokes for it also. I think thats all the truck needs! The OS .18 was more than enough for the big boyz! At the end of the moth their's another race so I want to see what it can do! Hopefully the truggy will be together also!

[AreCee]

Shoe goo is stronger than RTV or silicone caulk and stands up better in the buggies.

[Mika]

Ok, good luck Jman! Put a link here to your new stuff and the MSR 777 conversion when you got those.

[J_Bone]

Have you got the MSR kit yet?

[dgrobe2112]

well, jman.. sux your sellin it.. i guess you dont want to run 2 classes?? i would never get out of 1/8 unless i was totally getting out of racing.. class is huge.. good luck with the MT

did some changes to my buggy the last couple weeks.. and seems the car is getting worse.. so.. here are the things i did... and what i think happened..

Went to 22 deg hubs.. i think the driving style has to be a balls out driving style, or go lower in front diff for these to work.. killed all entering cornering i had.. all off power steering went out the window..

I also tried 1k rear diff oil.. from 3k.. made the car looser off power.. which is ok.. however.. the car was just too unpredictable.. i think the 1k is really good when the track gets really rough.. i think the key to the rear is having at least 2k in there.. but i think 3k is good.. mmore manageable.. and more stable.. 3k and if you need more on power steering.. or need to loosen the car some.. go to the 2.5 block..

went to the middle hole in the front hubs.. dont know what this has done.. i will try it with the standard setup i usually run.. and see what happens..

also.. put 35 in the rear.. with the softer springs.. Green.. not a good idea on a smooth track.. or high bite.. car is too lazy.. and unpredictable.. seems i am then ahead of the car.. in my input into the radio.. and get myself into trouble..

SO.. i am going back to 60/40, 3k rear diff.. and blue springs.. the green will work when the track gets rutted.. or potted up.. have more info after this weekend..

[J_Bone]

Looks I’m on the same boat as you. I run 50/40, SP-2 Blue springs with 3K in the rear.
My track if real bumpy and nice ruts. It drives like a dream for me! I just drive it real hard and it goes where I point it and hooks up out of the corners.
I've been reading about the green springs and will try them eventually, but I like how my SP-2 is setup. TO me, the new Blue springs are much better and help me in the ruff sections.

For me, the biggest setup change that helped me settle the buggy down was changing to the H block. It lowered the roll center to make it more stable and didn't have that twitchiness I got from the bumpy and ruff track.



I've considered a truggy, but I run 1/10 scale gas truck too and I love that class. But it is a dieing class. A lot of guys can't drive the 2WD trucks so the jump on the MT or Truggies and flop all over..lol. I always seem to marshal for them... :eek:

[Mika]

My SP2 looks now pretty trick having the C5 with Crazy Nut head and new Sirio evo3 pipe&header (lots of polished alloy), K-factory hinge pins, all carbon decks and Racer's Edge stiffeners .. Gonna post some pics soon. It looks more like a HD bike, not a race car... oh well.. Also changed some oils and put 22 caster block to try it out for a change.

[supralative]

Mika
sounds similiar to my SP1 hehehe
carbon servo tray, diff tray
i have racers edge towers, braces, rear tow in plate and top plate
running a Hyper 21 with JP1