Inferno MP777

[dgrobe2112]

bling blingin are yall.. i got the carbon radio tray.. i dont want.. gonna get the RE tray.. get everything to match.. racers edge stuff looks awesome.. and last forever.. no anodizing to come off and stuff.. i been racing my towers for a while now.. and they look new still.. compared to the blue KH, and stock towers on other guys cars..

[Mika]

Yeah..RE stuff is great..had a full set in my 7.5 but it gets awfully expensive shipped to EU, otherwise I would go for one in my 777 likely, too. But Kz blue accompanied with carbon is actually quite nice even when anodizing is worn out. Also changed all bearings to rubber sealed.

One thing though, could not get the front upper K-factory hinge pins through the stock 6.8mm ball ends..I guess I have to switch similar that are located in rear upper arms i.e. 7.8mm ball ends (non flanged). What do you guys think?

[dgrobe2112]

i have heard that before.. may contact Kfactory about that. I didnt even try to use them on the outer upper.. only in the other areas, like lower outside, lower inside in the rear.. lower outside, and upper and lower inside on the front.

[Mika]

OK
I ordered the 7.8mm ball ends to the front, too, let's see if those do the trick.

[jmangler1]

OK
I ordered the 7.8mm ball ends to the front, too, let's see if those do the trick.

I had that same problem! I never put them in let us know how you make out!

[Mika]

I will next week when I get those bigger balls ;-)
Modified the body a bit http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/team_kyosho.jpg

[J_Bone]

Nice cut out. I usually butcher mine.

[Mika]

hehe..Dremel is an awesome tool...making bodies pretty fast..

[J_Bone]

ah ya. I've alwasy read that but I just continue to cut it out with a razor knife. Maybe I should use the dremel.

[Mika]

Definitely! After the first time I tried myself I though why the heck I didn't try this before..

[jmangler1]

Hey any of you guys have any idea what guys are running in these MSR 777 truggy kits?? I know its a new kit and not many people have them yet. I will have mine tomarrow and will have it together as quick as possible! Just wondering what I should try out first for diff fluids... I remember when I had my Hotbodies LSP I had 7k in frnt, 30k in cntr, and 5k in the rear. Should I give that a shot or go with what I'm running in the buggy???

[kensung]

Hi All,

Sorry for disturbing, I m new to 1/8 Nitro Buggy and i m planing to buy Kyosho MP777 normal kit. Should i get the SP2 Kit?

Also i would like to know what type of tire and should i use and what kindly of Diff oil and Absorber oil should i use for a newbie like me.

thanks for yr help!!! :)

[jmangler1]

Hey Kensung,
Wheather you get the regular kit or the SP2 they are all awesome! As far as diff set-up's you can look back a few pages and you will see all different kind of set-up's. It depends on what track you run on. Same thing goes for the tires. If you need alot of steering I find 5k in frnt/ 7k in center/ and 1k in the rear to be the ticket!

[kensung]

Hey Kensung,
Wheather you get the regular kit or the SP2 they are all awesome! As far as diff set-up's you can look back a few pages and you will see all different kind of set-up's. It depends on what track you run on. Same thing goes for the tires. If you need alot of steering I find 5k in frnt/ 7k in center/ and 1k in the rear to be the ticket!

thanks for the advise, i think i will get the mp777 normal kit to start off. i will be using a os 21vz-b engine and os t-2050 pipe.

also i would like to know is the mp777 normal kit comes with the tire, diff and shock oil? thanks

[dgrobe2112]

ken, no.. the regular kit comes with tires, however, no oils.. i would reccommend getting 5/7/1 or 5/7/2, or.. if its the original.. i think 3k in the rear may be really good.. shock oils.. well.. prolly 60/40 would be a good starting point.. the thing about the regular.. is you can get the SP2 conversion kit.. and have the SP2, with center unis and all.. just need rear unis.. post any questions you have.. everyone here will be glad to help out.

[AreCee]

That's a great idea to buy the now discounted regular kit and add the SP-2 conversion kit, that way you have it all for under $600. The kit tires are pretty good in very soft, loose dirt but horrible on clay or blue groove, get some Panther Switch C tires for that.

[J_Bone]

That's not a bad idea. I never got the regular kit. I went strait to SP-1 then to SP-2 so I wouldn't know the difference.

We'll I've improved my lap times even more now. I was up near 36sec. a lap then I went to 34, now I'm near 30-32sec. a lap. I didn't break into the 29's, but that is the track record.
In the main, I was running second place for the first 12 minutes then the track dried out and the Panther Komoto 2's I run didn't hook up as well. They seem to slip more as it dried out and I was trying different line to catch first place, that didn't work either...lol. Most of the guys were running Crime fighters and they were better at the end of the race. I pulled off a 3rd in the Expert A main. Not bad for the company I was in.

As far as tires go, it depends on the track surface. If it's like most tracks with the hard under layer and a little lose on top (Great traction when damp or moist but slippery when it dries out) I would say run Crime Fighters. They are good when you have traction, but when it dries out they work better than Komotos 2's.

[dgrobe2112]

That's not a bad idea. I never got the regular kit. I went strait to SP-1 then to SP-2 so I wouldn't know the difference.

We'll I've improved my lap times even more now. I was up near 36sec. a lap then I went to 34, now I'm near 30-32sec. a lap. I didn't break into the 29's, but that is the track record.
In the main, I was running second place for the first 12 minutes then the track dried out and the Panther Komoto 2's I run didn't hook up as well. They seem to slip more as it dried out and I was trying different line to catch first place, that didn't work either...lol. Most of the guys were running Crime fighters and they were better at the end of the race. I pulled off a 3rd in the Expert A main. Not bad for the company I was in.

As far as tires go, it depends on the track surface. If it's like most tracks with the hard under layer and a little lose on top (Great traction when damp or moist but slippery when it dries out) I would say run Crime Fighters. They are good when you have traction, but when it dries out they work better than Komotos 2's.

Obviously, the car is working great for you, as well as everyone i have seen run it.. the car is predictable, and very stable.. sounds like your getting more consistant, and obviously faster.. great job.. post any setup info you may wish to share with others.. or what you have done to the car to make it better..

[J_Bone]

My setup has been the same. I posted my setup a few pages back. I might try a longer front upper arm and raise my rear one hole, But that's it.
I've just been practicing with the buggy more. I've been watching how it reacts and what it can do. My biggest driving tip I can give is that it can carry good speed all the way through the corners. It does have a bit of on power push, but I like that with the higher corner speed. When I get the angle I like, I hit it and the rear sticks so good it just goes. I like the setup.

[AreCee]

:-) I think the key word there is "practice" more.

[AreCee]

BTW: is it in agreement that the shock oils for a SP-2 should be 60/40 for tracks with decent bite and not too rough.

[AreCee]

Here it is boyz!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6006643838&indexURL=0&photoDisplayType=2#ebayphotohostingDid you ever sell it?

[dgrobe2112]

some of the guys on sgrid been running 70 in front.. but, i also know they been running 1.5 hole pistons.. that works on rough tracks really well..

[AreCee]

70 with a 1.5 piston is pretty similar to 50 with a 1.2 piston, I think.

I'll try 50/40 and see how that works and go from there. I noticed that you use the 2nd from inside hole on the SP-2 rear tower. I tend to prefer a more upright shock for rough tracks and more laid down for smoother tracks.

[dgrobe2112]

the lighter the oil, the more bouncy the car felt.. helped some in the rough, however, down the straight, or something like that.. on and off power.. the car just tilted toooo much.. front to back..

[jmangler1]

Well boyz, Finally got my truggy kit! It will be together tonite! I had a rough day at work so I kinda of beat, but Nothing a Red Bull cant fix though! It will be together and I will try to post some pic's when it done! I will be racing it this Sunday. Can't wait to blitz the track!

[J_Bone]

I've been running 50/40 and I like it for my track. 60wt up front seemed to bounce off bumps instead of absorb it. Even in the summer tiem when we raced at 110 at night. After it cooled down to 90 I still run 50 and it seems tobe good still. I didn't see that much of difference with the heat.

I'm going to try to stand my shock up one hole and see how it changes on my track. My track is fairly bumpy and can get real loose when it dries out.

[dgrobe2112]

Went out and tested the white springs today.. sweet.. they dont do good on the back.. however.. they work great in the front.. right now, white in front, with SP2 blue in the rear, the white seems to lift the car over the jumps better.. Like in the rythem section.. easy double, double, double.. double.. :)

[AreCee]

Aren't the white ones the stiffest Kyosho offers?

[Mika]

I decided to do the same thing as DG, which is not to use the shortest K-factory hinge pins because they tend to sort of lock inside the steel ball ends. I stick with stock parts in those areas (upper arms). Otherwise K-factory pins are nice.

[Motorman007]

new kyosho whites or the old kyosho whites?

[dgrobe2112]

new SP2 white springs.. if you can.. just get the fronts.. the rears i cant see any reason for using them..

AreCee, yes, whites are the stiffest, blues are medium, greens are softest..

[AreCee]

:-) I just finished trying out my 777 updated to SP-2 via conversion kit. It rocks! The rear end is very planted over the rough stuff and didn't do the dance it used to do. 50/40 with 1.2 pistons worked out well in the shocks and 5/7/3 in the diffs. New blue springs seem about right.

The only problem I had was a bit too much droop in the rear causing some traction roll but other than that it is sweet. This thing can really hold corner speed now.

[dgrobe2112]

you could prolly try just a little bit more negative camber in the rear..

[J_Bone]

:-) I just finished trying out my 777 updated to SP-2 via conversion kit. It rocks! The rear end is very planted over the rough stuff and didn't do the dance it used to do. 50/40 with 1.2 pistons worked out well in the shocks and 5/7/3 in the diffs. New blue springs seem about right.

The only problem I had was a bit too much droop in the rear causing some traction roll but other than that it is sweet. This thing can really hold corner speed now.
That's what im running. But I'm full droop and -1.5 camber. I like it a lot.

[Mika]

Snow came here..so lately it's more like tuning instead of driving haha
Few pics if I may
http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/o1.jpg

larger picture (http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/oo3.jpg)
body on (http://www.snrt.net/777/SP2/o2.jpg)

[jmangler1]

just put together my MSR 777 conversion and got a chance to run it today and it is definately sweet! I had a LSP and the 777 definately steers better! It jumps great also! I got a chance to race alittle and was up against 5 LSP's and 1 Mayhem St. I was definately the quickest in the technical tight stuff! Its very smoothe all over. I couldnt really get dialed in though. My breaks were not workng to good and I think something was up with the Foams in the tires! When on the gas really hard the fronts were wobbleing really bad. I think there out of balance because of the foams. I also need a new throttle linkage because it is too short. I had to set the servo horn on almost a 45degree angle to get it to reach and shut the throttle. I have some bugs to work out but once I get it dialed its definately going to rip!! It was nice to be the only Flouresent Green 777 SP1 truggy out their!

my set-up

60wt in fnrt/ 50wt in rear with SP2 springs in frnt and rear.
Diffs are tcd in frnt/7k in center/1 in rear
regulare porline boe ties on t-maxx wheels
Rex P5 13t CB/JP2 pipe

[dgrobe2112]

the MSR conversion, what does it do for the gearing.. does it do anything for that?? different spur gear or anything?? just curious.. i want some pics..

[ickvanovs]

hey guys, gonna buy mp777 as my first r/c
but im still not sure which mp777 worth to buy.

MP777 SP2 kit 57000yen (about $550)
MP777 SP2 kit with Sirio S21BK Evo2 engine 88000yen (about $840)

which one is more worth to buy?
is sirio engine good? or other engine is better?

thanks

[jmangler1]

Yes, they give you a spur gear, with aluminum blocks to raise the center diff and also aluminum blocks to raise the throttle servo. I dont know how to post pics but if you give me you email I can send them to you.

the MSR conversion, what does it do for the gearing.. does it do anything for that?? different spur gear or anything?? just curious.. i want some pics..

[J_Bone]

hey guys, gonna buy mp777 as my first r/c
but im still not sure which mp777 worth to buy.
MP777 SP2 kit 57000yen (about $550)
MP777 SP2 kit with Sirio S21BK Evo2 engine 88000yen (about $840)
which one is more worth to buy?
is sirio engine good? or other engine is better?
thanks
Me personally, I don't care for Sirio engines. Not that they are bad, I just prefer a Nova Rossi for my top $$$ engiens.



Yes, they give you a spur gear, with aluminum blocks to raise the center diff and also aluminum blocks to raise the throttle servo. I dont know how to post pics but if you give me you email I can send them to you.
here, e-mail them to me. I'll host and post them.
j_bone@cableaz.com

[dgrobe2112]

ick, if you can get the SP2 for round 550, you can then get a P5 engine for bout 240, and save a few bux, total would be round 790. instead of 840.. the P5 is prolly one of the top engines among offroad racers, i have about 7 gallons on my engine right now.. with good pinch still, and it just keeps going and going.. hahah..

[JamminJay]

I have to agree....P5 is much better.

[supralative]

Here are some of the carbon fiber and Racers Edge stuff on my 777 SP1.

http://members.cox.net/supralative2/777%20Bling%20001.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/777%20Bling%20002.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/777%20Bling%20003.jpg

[J_Bone]

Ya, my next .21 is a P5!! A few guys run them at my track and they run sweet!!!



Pictures of jmangler's truggy...

http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/Kyosho777/jmangler/001_600.jpg
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/Kyosho777/jmangler/006_600.jpg
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/Kyosho777/jmangler/007_600.jpg
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/Kyosho777/jmangler/008_600.jpg
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/Kyosho777/jmangler/009_600.jpg
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/Kyosho777/jmangler/010_600.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

2 sweet lookin rides.. that buggy looks almost exactly like mine under the lid.. jman.. now i want a truggy.. hahah

[kensung]

hi all,

i know this sounds kinda stupid, but recently, i purchase the mp777 basic kit and later i found out that servo horns was not included in the kit. I m using ko servo and servo horn for KO servo is kinda hard to find in my country. Why is that kyosho don't include any servo horn in their kit? Anyone can help and tell me what type of servo horn u guys are using.

thanks

[AreCee]

hi all,

i know this sounds kinda stupid, but recently, i purchase the mp777 basic kit and later i found out that servo horns was not included in the kit. I m using ko servo and servo horn for KO servo is kinda hard to find in my country. Why is that kyosho don't include any servo horn in their kit? Anyone can help and tell me what type of servo horn u guys are using.

thanksGenerally any servo horn for JR, Sanwa or Airtronics will fit a KO. Count the splines, if there are 23 of them then these will work. If you have 24 splines on the out put shaft then a horn for Hitec will work. Futabas use 25 splines. I'm using an OFNA aluminum 1/2 horn for steering and an OFNA plastic double horn for throttle/brake, both come with adapters for all servos.

Kyosho doesn't include them because you need to supply your own servos and those come with their own horns.

[dgrobe2112]

arecee hit the nail on the head.. you gotta buy servos, so they assume you would get your own servo horns, being that it uses standard servo horns, now.. Losi gas truck and other losi vehicles, give you servo horns, because their vehicle requires a special horn in order to work.. just like the new Revo.. you cant just by a pack of them.. but in 1/8th scale buggy, you can use the standard horns, so no need to have a ton of extra molds made to include in the kit, when you can buy a pack for like 4 or 5 bux..

i use airtronics black, servo horn for my ko servos..

[DNF2005]

Does anyone know if the front chassis brace is the same as a standard mp7.5? It appears the rear braces are the same but I am unsure about the front. I did notice that Racers Edge has different part numbers for each buggy but I guess you never know until you try.
thanks!!!!!

[dgrobe2112]

Does anyone know if the front chassis brace is the same as a standard mp7.5? It appears the rear braces are the same but I am unsure about the front. I did notice that Racers Edge has different part numbers for each buggy but I gess you never know until you try.
thanks!!!!!

Its a good thing that some have tried.. but no, the front dont fit, the rear does, but the front dont..

[Scrad]

He is correct. I used my old braces from my K3 and just drilled a new hole for the front brace in the chassis. So if your buying a new brace just get the correct one. If your wanting to use an older one you already have just drill a new hole.

[J_Bone]

Does anyone know if the front chassis brace is the same as a standard mp7.5? It appears the rear braces are the same but I am unsure about the front. I did notice that Racers Edge has different part numbers for each buggy but I guess you never know until you try.
thanks!!!!!
The rears are the same but the fronts are different!!! When I got new braces, I got the 7.5's and I had to return them.

[DNF2005]

The rears are the same but the fronts are different!!! When I got new braces, I got the 7.5's and I had to return them.

Hardcore Racing Products dropped the ball. I was really hoping to upfit my MP777 SP2 with some of their parts. I have had chassis braces for my buggy on order for over a month with an internet retailer that listed on hand stock. Turns out Hardcore has a part number and a photo on their web site but they have yet to produce a single front chassis brace!!!
:mad:
Looks like Fioroni will get my hard earned money!!!!!
:D

[supralative]

wahoo
Ko Propo Helios is here along with my OS RG 21
looks like a good weekend of racing ...hopefully

[dgrobe2112]

DNF, racers edge make some very nice stuff.. and its got a lifetime warranty, you break, or bend a part, send it in, get you a new one.. www.racers-edge.com check out their parts.

Supr.. sweet, sounds like you gonna have lots of fun, get the drop down wheel for that radio.. makes it looks cool..

[J_Bone]

I haven't been getting my subscription to my e-mail for this thread... :confused:

Superlative,
NICE! That is a good radio!

On the OS Rg. Use a OS A5 plug with 30%. The one thing about the RG, is that you have to run it hot (near 280). runs pretty darn good!!!
You can run it near 230, as I have, but the power is noticeable when you run it a bit hotter!!

Here's mine just after my last race.
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/Kyosho777/777_bodyon.jpg
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/Kyosho777/777_a.jpg

[electricnitro]

I haven't been getting my subscription to my e-mail for this thread... :confused:

Superlative,
NICE! That is a good radio!

On the OS Rg. Use a OS A5 plug with 30%. The one thing about the RG, is that you have to run it hot (near 280). runs pretty darn good!!!
You can run it near 230, as I have, but the power is noticeable when you run it a bit hotter!!

Here's mine just after my last race.
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/Kyosho777/777_bodyon.jpg
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/Kyosho777/777_a.jpg

jbone,
what kind of chassis braces are those?

[J_Bone]

Those are lotus70 off eBay. they work great!! And only $21 shipped

[Mika]

Hi, has anyone tried Advantage 777 carbon fiber shock towers? Or seen in use ? Do you guys use li-po's ?

[dgrobe2112]

mika, the carbon shock towers, are not worth it.. break one.. and your done.. they dont work that great for offroad racing.. i know they are thick, just cant handle the breakage.. i have see the pros use lipos, but, i have heard that they are very finicky on charging and stuff.. alot of people burning them up.. they are alot lighter.. which is always good..

[supralative]

Bummer
Led the Sportsman Main for like 12minutes the jacked the last 3 minutes to come in 2nd... :( .
Getting more consistent though...just need to learn to be consistent when in the lead and not ease up on the normal pace.

[kmorast]

Where has everybody been buying parts on line for their 777's?

[AreCee]

Ace: http://www.ace-hobbies.com/2.2/catalog/default.php and

A-Main: http://www.amainhobbies.com/ and

on ebay do a search for MP777 or MP 777

[Mika]

mika, the carbon shock towers, are not worth it.. break one.. and your done.. they dont work that great for offroad racing.. i know they are thick, just cant handle the breakage.. i have see the pros use lipos, but, i have heard that they are very finicky on charging and stuff.. alot of people burning them up.. they are alot lighter.. which is always good..

Thanks DG, I thought so too, just curious how do others see this stuff.

[AreCee]

Carbon shock towers = waste of money. As dgrobe said, you break it you're done, at least if you bend an alloy tower you can still finish the race. Do you want a race car or a shelf queen?

Lipo batteries are the new rage. Just get a charger designed to charge them.

[dgrobe2112]

i havent been getting any of the emails either, telling me of new post here.. so i come back, and there are like 10 new post..

superlative, sounds like your normal.. we all get the jitters while leading, especially when the announcer starts saying something.. hahah.. start getting the shakes, and the guy in 2nd is gaining.. and you fell like you cant do anything about it.. the only thing that i try to do, is keep a tight line.. and chase the car ahead of me on the track, as if it were for position..

[Mika]

AreCee, I was looking for a shelf queen.. Not. At this time of the year racing is awfully limited here so it's more like bench racing now.

[AreCee]

Same here. The only indoor track for 1/8 nitro is four hours away (until the new one is built that is about one hour).

[J_Bone]

Ace: http://www.ace-hobbies.com/2.2/catalog/default.php and

A-Main: http://www.amainhobbies.com/ and

on ebay do a search for MP777 or MP 777
I actually buy mine from Hobby Action (http://h1072049.hobbyshopnow.com/)
They are my LHS too. Or eBay.


We all get jitters if you let it get to you. I try not to listen to the announcer and just take care of how I'm driving at the current time. Basically eyes forward and keep doing what it was that got me in front.

[kensung]

Hi All,

I hv just purchase the MP777 regular kit, now i m now assembling it. I will be using os vz-b engine. I was wondering what pipe will be suitable other than os pipe(bcos it's currently out of stock in my local hobby shop). The track i usually go is a short track with short straight(abt 90ft) with a lot of corner.
Pls help!

thanks

kenneth

[Motorman007]

rex or top 86 pipe.

the jp1 kills the motor power meaning to much bottom.

[dgrobe2112]

or try the JP2, seems to be the new thing..

[Motorman007]

yeah the jp2 forgot about that one D.

you going to Jakes sat? if so i see you there man.


the jp1 puts out to much bottom.


and the JP header is nice on any pipe too.

[dgrobe2112]

nah dibbs.. wont be able to make it to jakes.. adjusting to the single life right now.. sent ole girl packin.. had to make some deposits on stuff.. so.. money is tight right now.. wont be doing any traveling for a while.. sure would like to go though..

[rc-empire]

jbone,
what kind of chassis braces are those?
The brand should be Dragon Racing. I make these chassis braces. Any comment for this product? :cool:

[J_Bone]

The brand should be Dragon Racing. I make these chassis braces. Any comment for this product? :cool:
Apparently someone else does too.

[dgrobe2112]

rc-empire.. you make those braces?? what about the other dragon racing products.. like the light weight flywheel..

[kmorast]

The brand should be Dragon Racing. I make these chassis braces. Any comment for this product? :cool:
I'm using the braces, it would be nice if there was a flat spot for a nut to tighten against on the chassis end of the brace. Even with lock tight my bolts come loose.

[supralative]

Here is the new body, wheels, tires, and wings.
I wont be using the OS RG 21 till next year. Might throw back in my SH 21 and see how it runs this weekend.

Here is a bunch of pics of my new body, wheels, tires, and wings.

http://members.cox.net/supralative2/777new%20001.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/777new%20004.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/777new%20005.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/777new%20006.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/777new%20007.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/777new%20008.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/777new%20009.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/777new%20010.jpg

[rc-empire]

I'm using the braces, it would be nice if there was a flat spot for a nut to tighten against on the chassis end of the brace. Even with lock tight my bolts come loose.
Thank you for your comment. I will add the flat spot at the next batch.
Thank you very much!

[J_Bone]

Rc-Empire,
Are you Lotus70 on eBay?



Nice superlative!! looking good.



We'll I killed my RG yesterday. I was running second in the main to Ryan Maifield and actually running smooth when all of a sudden in a corner the engine died. I just installed a new plug and it was running great!. After restarting it for the fourth time I called it quits. I come down from the drivers stand and notice the air filter came off... :eek: There was dirt all down inside the carb and the slider is gritty...aarrgg. I'll take it apart today and see what I did.
I guess I'll just have to break in my new one sitting the box. :D

[dgrobe2112]

that sux bout the motor.. but good thing it was a 120 dollar RG, and not a 250 P5..

[J_Bone]

that sux bout the motor.. but good thing it was a 120 dollar RG, and not a 250 P5..
Not even that much...lol I paid $60 for it brand new and have been racing on it since February. It had plenty of life left, but I forgot to zip tie it... duh... My fault...

I've been considering a P5 myself. But Ihave a cheater motor that runs real good at my track and it only cost me $120.

[dgrobe2112]

thats good.. the P5's are awesome, i am gonna try the new rossi B21 3 port.. and see how that works out..

Just in case yall havent tried it.. the white springs on the front are dialed.. those make the car jump so much better.. lands better.. go get a set, dont buy the white rears.. get the fronts...

[jmangler1]

Hey Guys,

Anyone else in here built the MSR 777 truggy other than me?? I was thinking of trying the Native Racing truggy kit. I love the way the truggy is right now. The MSR kit gives you the extenders, which are working great and have no play what so ever. I just think that I would have more set-up options out of the native kit since it has so many more holes in the arms for shock positioning. If anyone has heard of those kits let me know! I would love to hear some feedback on them!

[dgrobe2112]

if i do a truggy, its gonna be just an SP2 with the extenders, and the spacers and such.. so i can use the same starter box and everything..

[J_Bone]

A guy at my track just built a 77 truggy, but it's the MSR kit.



My OS engine is going to be ok... I took it apart and it only had dirt down in the crank and the piston and sleeve are perfect still. It wouldn't run right since the filter was off and the fuel mixture was way off. I think I might try to mod it just for the sake of it and see how it does.....lol. Well see.

[dgrobe2112]

engine modding.. thats something i would like to learn.. just dont have the guts, or the money to replace an engine.. hahah

[guswiththemugen]

Gday guys, i have a question about an engine swap and did'nt want to start a new thread for it so im asking you guys first. I have an old DX Inferno, like one of the first Infernos, looks like an MP5?? Anyway, im buying a new engine for my Ofna Dominator truck and wanted to put the original Hyper 21 Pullstart from the truck in the Inferno? Has anyone done something similar? My main problem i suppose will be the engine mount. The GS21 in the buggy is a pullstart so the hyer pullstart should fit right??
Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.

[J_Bone]

engine modding.. thats something i would like to learn.. just dont have the guts, or the money to replace an engine.. hahah
Usually me either, but this was a cheapie and I already considered it gone. I have another engine waiting to be broken in.
I've been researching how Nitro engines work and the timing of the ports. I like to be prepared before I do it even if it's disposable.


Gday guys, i have a question about an engine swap and did'nt want to start a new thread for it so im asking you guys first. I have an old DX Inferno, like one of the first Infernos, looks like an MP5?? Anyway, im buying a new engine for my Ofna Dominator truck and wanted to put the original Hyper 21 Pullstart from the truck in the Inferno? Has anyone done something similar? My main problem i suppose will be the engine mount. The GS21 in the buggy is a pullstart so the hyer pullstart should fit right??
Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
If I'm not mistaking, it should be a drop in. Just use the Inferno clutch and bell. All .21 blocks are the same size except for the specific ones for example, the T-Maxx. Where they will make a Big Block for a T-Maxx.
Just remove the engine first and see if it will drop in. Then if it does, buy the one for the Dominator.

[guswiththemugen]

Thanks J Bone. Thats what i wanted to hear. Im going to pull the Hyper out of my truck Sunday, and see how it looks in the Inferno. If all goes well i'll post a pic. of the finished buggy.

[dgrobe2112]

one thing though, if im not mistaken, i beleive, in those earlier versions of the RTR, they had some wierd clutch setup in there.. you may need a different flywheel, and complete clutch setup.. if your getting a new clutch and flywheel for your dominator, then the Ofna clutch on the engine now should work in the MP5.. but, i think your clutch and flywheel off the MP5 GS engine, wont work on the Hyper engine.. i may be wrong though

[supralative]

WAHOO!!!
TQ'd and took first in the Sportsman class this past Saturday night.

Tried some standard red Kyosho rear springs up front and it seem to do pretty good.
These are the normal ones and not the longer updated SP2 style springs. I figured put the rears up front and still dont have to run a bunch of preload.

[nitro.monster]

Hi guys

What do you think about a os .30VG in my SP1 I'm not racing only bashing around, do you think it's to mutch power?

I have a tired os v-spec who needs a new piston and sleeve and I think if I sell it and bay a VG it vill cost the same as is if I rebuild the v-spec

[dgrobe2112]

if your just bashing.. i think that engine will be fine.. but for racing.. prolly way tooo much motor.. but.. i dont know how much it is.. you could get a P5, and have plenty of power all around..

[dgrobe2112]

superlative.. SP2, blues in the front.. and greens in the rear.. will prolly be bout the same.. congrats, on the win.. time to bump up.. hahah

[supralative]

i was running SP2 blues all around but just figured heck got to try some different things out and see how they work

getting cold here so i will have to go to a lighter weight oil if we keep on racing
i want to get some SP2 greens and white if they have them for the rear

gonna try some regular white rears in the front next time maybe

check it out

http://www.actionrc.com/Results/8TH%20SPORTS.jpg

[cableguy69]

thats good.. the P5's are awesome, i am gonna try the new rossi B21 3 port.. and see how that works out..

Just in case yall havent tried it.. the white springs on the front are dialed.. those make the car jump so much better.. lands better.. go get a set, dont buy the white rears.. get the fronts...

Hey Dgrobe,

You know me, You sold me all those 7.5 parts in Waco a long time back.

You'll like the n21BF, but bring a heat gun. I ran a whole day, 10 tanks breaking it in with the help of David Joor at Ncontrol, the next weekend, It was still so tight it burned out my bumpbox battery which was nearly fully charged. It took me two missed heats to get it running, and I had to leave it running once I got it started until my heat. If it takes 10+ tanks to break-in, you know it's going to last.

I was running it with an 086 pipe and it screamed.

I took some time off and sold everything but now that school is over, I will be back, with a $100 GS Storm Pro with used hyper 21, and a used RG as a back up. Racin on a budget now.

hope to make it up to Waco soon.

[nitro.monster]

if your just bashing.. i think that engine will be fine.. but for racing.. prolly way tooo much motor.. but.. i dont know how much it is.. you could get a P5, and have plenty of power all around..


the P5 engine has also expensive parts

[Motorman007]

Good job Son Nyugen and Derek Choe

the Red may have been a little to soft. Mark and I was checking your buggy out.


i say get the Green sp2 springs
and some old K3 blues

and some old K3 whites.

try different shock oil. and you are right about the lighter shock oil when it gets cold.

Keep up the good work.

here is what i use for my Helios
http://www.htbatteries.com/


Choe i was not able to check your buggy out next time i'm out i will take a look at it.



i was running SP2 blues all around but just figured heck got to try some different things out and see how they work

getting cold here so i will have to go to a lighter weight oil if we keep on racing
i want to get some SP2 greens and white if they have them for the rear

gonna try some regular white rears in the front next time maybe

check it out

http://www.actionrc.com/Results/8TH%20SPORTS.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

the P5 engine has also expensive parts

yeah, your right, piston, sleeve, rod for bout 140 bux. I dont know how much the new OS 30 is.. and dont know how it will last. I just know that my P5, keeps going, and going, and going.. and going, and going.. hahahah..

[dgrobe2112]

Hey Dgrobe,

You know me, You sold me all those 7.5 parts in Waco a long time back.

You'll like the n21BF, but bring a heat gun. I ran a whole day, 10 tanks breaking it in with the help of David Joor at Ncontrol, the next weekend, It was still so tight it burned out my bumpbox battery which was nearly fully charged. It took me two missed heats to get it running, and I had to leave it running once I got it started until my heat. If it takes 10+ tanks to break-in, you know it's going to last.

I was running it with an 086 pipe and it screamed.

I took some time off and sold everything but now that school is over, I will be back, with a $100 GS Storm Pro with used hyper 21, and a used RG as a back up. Racin on a budget now.

hope to make it up to Waco soon.

Whats up man.. i am debating on the truggy thing.. still havent decided what i want to do bout that.. but, im like 60/40 on not doing it.. haha.. but it would be fun to run some MT sometimes..

[Motorman007]

stay a way from the os 30.

bess bearings went out in less then gal.

get the xrtreme mag jan ed.

and run up on it.

on other note

the Hellfire photo wise looks to be a good.
the jammin too. but brandon said it is sloppy already with only 3-4 outting at the track.

and the kyosho truck i would hold off on till the 777 truck comes out.

or u can just get it for $399 and do what all the REVO guys do and hop it up to a $2k truck.

i have seen the Jammin run and it is fast in the right hands.

faster than the buggies.

[dgrobe2112]

Dibbs, my plan is to get another SP2, then change the rims, and gearing, and use the same starterbox for each car and truck.. thats my plan, i dont really want to be really competative with it, (yeah right) but i want to race it locally, and some events around here.. and if i can get a truck that uses the same starterbox, and same parts as my buggy.. that would be best.. share parts for each..

[Motorman007]

i understand what you are saying.

that is why i was thinking of the Kyosho $399 truck.

i can use the same box kind of and for sure use the diff gears
and k3 toe plates i have 3 full sets still
a lot of k3 stuff

and pay someone to mill me out some 4 or 5mm towers for it.

i have 4 sets of uni from k3 still

motor mounts

you know all the kyosho stuff.

that's the only reason i was thinking kyosho.

[AreCee]

The Kyosho truggy is supposed to have a longer chassis and different engine placement than the buggy so it will be a fit problem on the box if the flywheel cutout isn't in the same place on both chassis. I was thinking the same as you but then realized that you have to readjust the stops for each chassis.

[J_Bone]

The Kyosho truggy is supposed to have a longer chassis and different engine placement than the buggy so it will be a fit problem on the box if the flywheel cutout isn't in the same place on both chassis. I was thinking the same as you but then realized that you have to readjust the stops for each chassis.

Good point.
I'm still waiting or a long armed 777 instead of the MSR kit. Till then I'll enjoy my buggy and my little bitty 1/10 gas truck...lol

[supralative]

what up James
glad to see you on here

thanks

i got 2 complete sets of white, greens, and reds all K3 versions not SP2 length...so i will be swapping them out here and there to see for sure hehee

dgrobe2112...cant bump yet hehehe them guys are too fast and consistent for me but i am trying

by the way whats your name

[dgrobe2112]

Daniel Grobe, i race in Texas, home track is Waco, race in Dallas, houston, austin, SA, corpus christi..

I want to do the SP2 truggy, cuz it will share arms and stuff.. spare parts and all that.. that kyosho truck, is based off the 7.5, which is all different parts.. i would get the SP2 which comes with milled towers allready.. hahah..

BTW dibbs.. if you want milled towers for the 7.5, Racers Edge has them cheap right now.. actually.. all the MP7.5 parts are marked down on their website.. www.racers-edge.com

[Stalker911]

aww man.. figures when my picture gets up on here it's a BAD one! LOL Wish I had of known the picture was getting taken right then.. there was 3 people taking pictures! HA

Yup that's me, Mr. Closed Eyes South Pole Sweater!! :D

Son, Gary and I were talking... I think we are going to petition Jerold and get you bumped to expert! HAHA

-- Jeff --

[supralative]

hahhaa
Jeff what up mang

check this out hehehe
next seasons engine
going to break it in the next few days slicks and all are on it ready to get it done!!!!

http://members.cox.net/supralative2/OS%20RG%2021%20002.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/OS%20RG%2021%20001.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

superlative.. what filter is that you are running?? does it rub on the body??

[J_Bone]

Superlative,
Nice buggy!! You have come a long way!!! :D I remember your old stock PCR...

The air filter looks like an RB one?? I use a RD logics one and it's similar but with out the ripples.
Is that an OS RG? Nice choice in pipe. I almost got that one myself. How's the RPM adaptor working??



Here's a month old pic....I've changed pipes and have a new engine waiting to be broken in...
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album65/IMG_1789.sized.jpg



Here is my latest work...My filter came off on my last race so I thought my RG was toast. But it wasn't but I went ahead and smoothed out some ports asn will see how it works.
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album65/IMG_1820.sized.jpg

[supralative]

Daniel
thats the OS filter that came with the OS RG
it doesnt rub like my other filter but it just touches...its alot better believe me
if you want one like it get the Mugen Filter assembly they are exactly the same
the prefilter i am using is from the RB filters while the filter element itself is from OS and Mugen

J Bone thanks hehehe
that was my stepping stone learned alot from it
i havent ran the buggy yet with the waller adaptor heck havent even this engine LOL...its still needs to be broke in
i will let you know how it runs then

polishing looks good!!!

[Stalker911]

Son! Bet you didn't expect to see me on here with the old screen name! :lol:

So the OS and Mugen filters are the same huh? I thought they looked alike. I have a few sitting around here, now I've got spares! :D

Engine looks good! Looks just like mine but with a bigger head! :P

J Bone: I like the porting, looks good! I'm interested to hear how it effects the engine... I mgiht need a little extra in mine to help me catch up to Son...

[dgrobe2112]

i dont think the mugen filter is the same as the OS, the OS filter is huge..

[dgrobe2112]

jbone.. thats looks slick.. what did you use to do that work??

[supralative]

i dont think the mugen filter is the same as the OS, the OS filter is huge..


the elbow is close if not the same...gives it the low tucked in bend so it wont rub the body

diameter wise the OS filter might be thicker but the Mugen ones are not bad...larger than the OFNA filters i was using
i am using a Mugen filter underneath the RB prefilter on that one and it fits good

Jeff if the filter sits inside and gives a good seal use em is what i say hehehe

[J_Bone]

I’m considering going back to the stock OS filter. The RD one doesn't seem to fit the OS 20e carb to well. Hhmm..

As far as the port and polish, I used a dremel with a carbide cut bit. After I made the small port and I rounded the edges I polished it with the dremel polish kit that I took from my wife....shh..hehe
I did some test runs today and I'm not sure how it was reacting. I had a glow plug that didn't light the last 2 or 3 rungs so it was junk. But it actually ran pretty good like that. Tomorrow I will get a new plug in it and see.
I did a no-no. I did 2 things to it. Port/polish and put on a JP-2 pipe from last time I ran it. It's obviously fast on top end and seems to keep building RPM's much longer. I'll see this weekend when I go race against other engines..


Oh ya...If any of you happen to come to Arizona in the next few months..
http://www.azpointseries.com/

[Stalker911]

J Bone: Thanks for the info, I may just try that on mine at some point... I'm sure I'll ask more questions before I do though!

As far as the OS Filter being larger... the older OS filter was HUGE the new one that comes with the RG's is much smaller... I'll have to go compare them side by side... maybe tomorrow I'll get up off my lazy butt and do that!

[dgrobe2112]

the filter im talking bout is the OS Superfilter.. that thing is big..

JB.. let me know what the motor does for ya.. i been wanting to dable in some modding.. but just dont have the guts for it yet..

[dgrobe2112]

BTW.. that crank.. you used the polishing kit for that?? did you use any kinda polishing compound??

[J_Bone]

I polished the sleeve and crank.
I used #403 Bristle Brush,
http://www.dremel.com/html/images/products/bits/large/403.gif

#414 1/2" Felt Wheel,
http://www.dremel.com/html/images/products/bits/large/414.gif

#422 Felt Polishing Tip,
http://www.dremel.com/html/images/products/bits/large/422.gif

#429 1" Felt Wheel
http://www.dremel.com/html/images/products/bits/large/429.gif

#520 Polishing Wheel and
http://www.dremel.com/html/images/products/bits/large/520.gif

#421 Polishing Compound.
http://www.dremel.com/html/images/products/accessories/421.jpg

And I used this to do the cuts.
#9903 Tungsten Carbide Cutter
http://www.dremel.com/html/images/products/bits/large/9903.gif

[dgrobe2112]

thanks man..

[dgrobe2112]

I aint gonna do any cuts.. but i was thinking of polishing the crank and rod and sleeve.. might do some cuts later on.. but who knows..

[J_Bone]

I aint gonna do any cuts.. but i was thinking of polishing the crank and rod and sleeve.. might do some cuts later on.. but who knows..

That's what I said. But mine is a OS RG I got for $60 long ago. :D

[J_Bone]

Engine update...
Well I got to tune it a bit today. After getting the HSN dialed in I finally got the LSN dialed after chasing the tune for a bit.
Once it was all figured out and running, I have to say I think I notice a big difference! IT seems to keep Revving a bit longer.
The true test will come Sunday and I get to run against other buggies and then I can gauge how much of a difference there is.

[Stalker911]

Good to hear so far! Looking forward to the next update :)

I might need a little extra edge against Son! :lol:

Oh also Son, figured out why my buggy was acting all weird... remember the nose dives off of the jumps? One of the screws that holds the brake pads came off... so my front brakes were hanging and binding, also the rear tightened up a bit and were dragging... I have to rip it all apart by next weekend, hopefully nothing got damaged.... I should be ready to give you an even better run this time :D

[JamminJay]

JB - just curious, would you be interested in doing an engine for me? A 2.5R from a Revo? I don't have the money to upgrade an engine, but I'd like to get more performance out of it. you can answer here or pm me. Thanx.

[supralative]

Jason
what tooth clutch bell are you running on the RG
13T correct??

That is what I am running. Just finished tuning it at the track with some cold conditions. Got 11minute run time out of it....275 on an empty tank.

Motor has good bottom nice and smooth but man it revs out too fast...it doesnt have the top end of my Hyper21 8Port for sure. I might try a 14T to help it out on top....just not sure if it will still have enough on bottom if I do that.

[dgrobe2112]

supr.. go with a 14 on the clutchbell.. that will make give it the top you need.. wont notice much loss on the bottom.. 275 is bout right for that motor.. at run out.. prolly running round 260.. just be sure you got smoke.. and your good to go.. but.. i think the 14 will do the trick for ya

[supralative]

i will on my next race outing
a few weeks until that one though

after that 275 temp we richened it up an hour and went back out on a little less than 3/4 of a tank...it was only hitting 221 after about 6 laps on the track we got maybe a half an hour turn here and there and I think we are on a good tune smoke is there for sure it runs pretty good

this engine is still pretty tight though it was a bit of s struggle to start it hehehe

[J_Bone]

JB - just curious, would you be interested in doing an engine for me? A 2.5R from a Revo? I don't have the money to upgrade an engine, but I'd like to get more performance out of it. you can answer here or pm me. Thanx.
PM sent....

Jason
what tooth clutch bell are you running on the RG
13T correct??

That is what I am running. Just finished tuning it at the track with some cold conditions. Got 11minute run time out of it....275 on an empty tank.

Motor has good bottom nice and smooth but man it revs out too fast...it doesnt have the top end of my Hyper21 8Port for sure. I might try a 14T to help it out on top....just not sure if it will still have enough on bottom if I do that.

Ya, I'm running the 13T clutchbell. For my track it's fine, but the one long strait it would top out so I wanted a bit more RPM's. I switched to the JP-2 and it got a bit more Rev's out of it, but not enough. So that's when I attempted to mod it.
I have heard of people using a 14T clutch bell. You will loose some off the bottom but gain it back on top, but the engine still doesn't rev out. I want to hear how it does.


Well I raced it yesterday and TQ'ed and won the A Main. It was running good and pulled down the strait. It didn't rev out by the time I had to brake for the next corner so it's kind of where I need it for my track. It doesn't have a huge strait like some of the National tracks. I believe its near 85ft.
I pitted with 6 minutes left and when I finished the race I check the tank and I was close to half full running near 250. I will need to test it on a practice day to see just how long it last's and tune it a bit better. RG's run better near the270 mark.

[dgrobe2112]

sweet.. sounds like it all worked out great..

[JamminJay]

DG-
I know you dont have your drake truck anymore, about a month and a half ago, when this idea came to my mind, I thought about you, myself, and all the other fellas who race the Losi truck. Not sure if it bothered you, but alot of the guys I talked to, we all had one of the same peeves about the truck. The sideways opening tank was a pain in the azz, to say the least. Either reaching way in, or having a ziptie come out the side window. someone who may not be familiar with the losi truck setup, and used to a gt tank, goes to refuel you during the race, your bound to lose a few hundreths of a second with them fumbling around. (and we all know every second counts)
Well I did a little investigative work since my buddy has a GT, I literally took his truck for a week. I came up with a way to mod a GT tank in a losi truck. If you remember the losi tank used tabs off the center brace to mount? Well I dremeled them off smooth, and the tank fits in there nice. nice roomy area for it. i just made a template for the tank w/ holes. drew out where to mount it on the chassis, drilled out the holes, and countersunk them underneath. I replaced the chassis brace, then mounted the GT tank to the chassis, using rubber shock orings between the tank and chassis for vibration purposes. Heres a couple pics, Let me know what you think.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/JamminJay/tank1sm.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/JamminJay/tank2sm.jpg

[J_Bone]

JamminJay,
Did you post in the wrong forum?? j/k...
I have a GT myself. I'm the only one except when Ryan Maifield decides to run Gas truck too. Its all Losi's and Mugen’s.

[JamminJay]

Mugens eh? I thought about converting to them since I can get them new for $130 a kit. Since I just sold the Revo and bought a new MTX-3, I considered running all mugen... that would mean selling out my 777, for a X-5. Not sure I wanna do that. But around here, isn't anyone at my local track have a mst-1 that I know of. All Gt's and Losi's.

[dgrobe2112]

Jay, yes i know what your saying.. however, i had a way of fueling the truck with no problems.. when the truck comes into pit lane, i was able to pick it up with one hand, and a finger in the window.. open the tank all in one.. and fuel up.. actually faster than i could a GT.. but what you did.. is very sweet..

[JamminJay]

yea, it was somtimes a hassle for others, which is who i mainly made it for. me owning the truck...you get used to it. But at the track, you never know who may be around to help you pit. Also what the heck, I'm always in search of trying to make cars different and stand out in any particular ways. :D

[dgrobe2112]

did yall see the pics of the new MP777 truggy that kanai is working on??

Yuichi Kanai testing a new Kyosho competition-class racing truggy. This new version is rumored to be a 777-based kit designed by Kanai and though the details are hard to see through the body, it certainly looks like Kyosho has a long-arm competition truggy in development. The new torque rods can already be seen on the car. Our information says Kyosho is shooting to have something available in early spring before the start of the racing season.
www.neo-buggy.net

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/pics/truggy1.jpg
http://www.neobuggy.net/images/News/mp777truck1.jpg

[J_Bone]

The 777 looks sweet. A guy at my track built the 777MSR kit, but put CRT a-arms on it so it's long armed too. Works good!!

[JamminJay]

Don't know if either of you saw the write up about this truggy in the "new" section of this forum? The truck looks nice... altho those torque rods are still the pop off kind, with ball ends. I prefer the dragon racing, R.E. or KHZ. All in all, would be good to carry spares of both cars all in one :D

[EZM]

What is the best version kyosho to get? what versions are there?
And whats the most high end of these versions? between the high end version of this buggy and the mbx5 regular, what is more high end and cost more?

[EZM]

also wich comes with more alum parts?

[Mika]

777 SP2 is the most recent Kyosho buggy and as good as it gets. But if you compare to MBX5 prospect it has less alloy parts, although after market offers wide range of parts.

[dgrobe2112]

the price of the SP2, and the Prospec Mugen, are about the same.. maybe the prospec is a little higher.. the SP2, is prolly the best buggy right now, winning just about every race out there..

[AreCee]

Another thing that seems to be over done is the complaints about the phillips head screws. Get high quality #1 and #2 drivers and be sure to clean out the slots and you shouldn't be stripping any heads.

BTW don't tell me that you've never stripped out a hex head either, it can be done quite easily with a worn out driver or too much dirt that wasn't cleaned out.

[1822]

Don't know if either of you saw the write up about this truggy in the "new" section of this forum? The truck looks nice... altho those torque rods are still the pop off kind, with ball ends. I prefer the dragon racing, R.E. or KHZ. All in all, would be good to carry spares of both cars all in one :D

Anyone that has raced 1/8 buggies long enough to know better, knows that the car runs better with these types of braces. The solid mounted aluminum chassis braces make the chassis too stiff and it doesn't handle as well. I've tested it myself and KNOW it to true. I've also NEVER seen one of these braces "pop off." I replace the rod ends on the old braces once a season to keep them tight, but these new ones look much stronger. One thing is for sure, these are the type of chassis braces that you want. Anyone that tells you that the solid aluminum braces are better either doesn't have enough experience to know better, or is paid to tell you that the XYZ chassis brace is "the best!" :rolleyes:

[J_Bone]

I hear what you’re saying, but I got tired of mine popping off. My very first race was the only time they stayed on. After that, they popped off every heat or main with out crashing. I even bought replacement ones and I grew tired of them.
With my "lack of experience" I prefer the solid ones. They do make it a bit more rigid, but I'll take that over a sloppy un-braced chassis since mine keep popping off.
Maybe the new ones will be better? But they end look to be the same.

[Monsterbrad]

I have been in the hobby for almost 18 years and I want to know something here
Sp-1 or sp-2
I can see that the sp-2 is a bit better but this will be my first 1/8 scale buggy to race.
I have been racing truggies for a while and want to race 1/8 scale but I am not sure which one to get.
I think I am just going to get the Sp-1 cause there is deals on them here and there and I don't really want to spend the 600 plus on the sp-2
THere are only raves about how good the sp-1 is on here and very few negative feed backs on that buggy.
THey both look good to me and I can put all the sp-2 stuff on the buggy as I go along.
I hope I am making the right decision here.

[dgrobe2112]

the SP1 is a good car.. the SP2, is better. Better handling.. the SP1 is pretty loose feeling.. the SP2 has a longer chassis to make it more planted.. personally, if you can get a good deal on the SP1, and then get an SP2 conversion.. then your set.. but when i changed to the SP2, it was night and day..

[J_Bone]

the SP1 is a good car.. the SP2, is better. Better handling.. the SP1 is pretty loose feeling.. the SP2 has a longer chassis to make it more planted.. personally, if you can get a good deal on the SP1, and then get an SP2 conversion.. then your set.. but when i changed to the SP2, it was night and day..

Monsterbrad,
I will agree with dgrobe2112. Mine was night and day too.
If you happen to go SP-1, Your first upgrades should be chassis, Rear/center Uni(same length as the front/center Uni) and steering turnbuckle. Those will get you by and get the SP-2 benefits. From there you can get the longer shock shafts, SP-2 springs, shock towers and radio tray. Oh ya....Depending on your track, you might want to get rid of the front LSD diff, it's only $16. That too was night and day for me.

[Monsterbrad]

Well from what I am hearing then I should wait and get the sp-2.
I have seen it around 650 !!!
I have been looking over 1/8 scale buggies for almost a year after I bought my truggy.
I just didn't know which ones to get till I saw the sp-1 run and the amount of steering it has.
plus the components are super nice.
Does the new sp-2 have pins for the arms or bolts?

[J_Bone]

I got to drive a Mugen, X Ray, Jammin, SportWerks and the Kyosho before I bought my SP-1. I picked the SP-1 over all of them. But the SP-2 is very good!!

The Sp-2 uses Ti pins with e-clips still. It bothers some, but not me.

[dgrobe2112]

monster.. there is some captured hinge pins available at www.racers-edge.com but the kit comes with very smooth, and updated hinge pins.. with eclips.

[dgrobe2112]

bout 2 more days till the MSR gets here.. :)

[J_Bone]

I've seen CRT arms on a 777 MSR. Get's rid of those hub adaptors.

[dgrobe2112]

where are some pics.. i would like to see..

[J_Bone]

where are some pics.. i would like to see..
I will e-mail him and see if he has any pic's yet.

[dgrobe2112]

got the truck put together last night, went together great.. only issue, my KO servos dont seem to want to fit in the radio tray. Had to dremel on the radio tra to get it to fit. But, the kit went together great. Got the hotbodies servo saver spring, that is the ticket, gotta do that. I will get pics soon, i am waiting on my body to get painted. Hopefully my painter will have it done for me soon.

[StevePond]

The KO servos are slightly larger than Futaba and Airrtonics servos, so don't feel bad. I've had to open up about 50 radio trays to get the KO servos to fit, but it's worth it. ;)

[dgrobe2112]

yes it is..

[Mika]

Merry Christmas K racers!!
-Santa ;-)

[ALJR]

Any one know if the SP2 kit comes with tires, body and a pipe/header? I know it has rims (at least I am 90% sure it does).. I have my SP2 on order and I am just trying to get some accessories in so I can build it smooth..

Any susgestions on a good screw kit? I am thinking of going w/ the Tony's kit.. Seems his is the only one w/ high grade fastners.. There is no way I am going to use the stock phillips screws! I have used r/c screwz in the past, but there junk.. any other sugestions?

Also, any sugestions on the build? Like what wt shock and diff fluids to go with? suspension set-ups for a large motorcross style track? etc?

Thanks,
-AL-

[Mika]

Tires and pipe/header excluded, rims, wing and body included

Basic setup is 5K-7K-3K for diffs (front to rear) and something like 50wt in front and 35wt at rear for shocks

[AreCee]

The stock Phillips head screws are fine. People strip them (myself included) when you use the wrong size or worn out screwdriver, forget to clean out the slots or in just too much of a hurry to make repairs at the track.

I've seen plenty of people strip out hex heads for the same reasons but these seem to stand up better with the abuse.

Stainless steel is more brittle than the stock screws which will bend rather than snap off. Hardened steel is better, Ti is overkill and AL is just too weak.

[StevePond]

Agreed. There's this myth worthy of urban legend status that Phillips head screws can't be as good as Allen head screws. I admit to having changed them on many cars, but only because I wanted to do something different, but never for "functional" reasons. The standard screws work just fine.

[dgrobe2112]

if you got a good phillips screw driver.. your golden.. i strip hex's all the time.. so.. either way.. they are gonna strip.. tony's srews are good.. i heard some people actually breaken them off though

[J_Bone]

I've stripped both myself. I tend to strip philips more so I changed mine out to hexes. Just my preference. :D

[dgrobe2112]

mine too.. :)

[AreCee]

Me too but only because I had so many hex head screws left over from my OFNA days, otherwise I'd stick with the Phillips screws.

[ALJR]

I have used the phillips in the past, both on my KII and all my hpi cars/trucks.. Now I just prefer a quality hex-head fastner.. The only hex-head screws I have striped are those cheap/soft ss r/c screws! They have got to be some of the worst fastners out there.. Them and the cheap Titanium import fastners.. If ya have a nice driver set (like the hudy or losi), your chances of stripping a hex-screw are slim..

Its kinda dissapointing that a high-end buggy like the 777 sp2 does not come with them.. IMO, its one of the few things that bothers me about the kit..

If I could update/change a few things on the SP2 kit, they would be:
-change the fastners to hex
-get rid of those "rod" braces (front and rear) for some nice stought aluminum units
-have the center diff mount be "split", so you could remove the center diff out from the top w/o having to remove the whole mount (Ofna 9.5 style comes to mind)
-get rid of the cheap cast aluminum steering knuckles in the front for some nice billet units.. Kinda like the design ofna uses on there jammin buggy
-would rather have the rear wing screwed on, rather than held on w/ body clips
-captured hinge pins of some sort.. don't really care for the E-clips..

"IMO", making those changes would make the buggy perfect! But hey, I still bought it in its current state :)

Would any one happen to know what size flanged bearing I would use in the steering drag-link (the part that connects the right & left steering posts). Looks like the stock plastic part is # 102 and its description in the manual is "steering collar" on page 17..

Thanks,
-AL-

[J_Bone]

I've changed mine....here's the latest pics.
Actually, this is what it looks like befoer a race, not the after pictures I've been posting....LOL
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album65/IMG_1869.sized.jpg
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album65/IMG_1874.sized.jpg
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album65/IMG_1871.sized.jpg

[StevePond]

Hehe. I just noticed that the last three numbers of your transponder are "777."

[ALJR]

J, are those center braces the ones off ebay? or?

Are there any aftermarket manufacturers out there who make a radio tray for the 777 w/ a lay-down steering servo?

[dgrobe2112]

the reason Kyosho does not use hex screws is because over in europe and asia, the hex head wrenches are harder to come by than the phillips..

[J_Bone]

Hehe. I just noticed that the last three numbers of your transponder are "777."
LOL...I was wondering if any one would notice. :D

[J_Bone]

J, are those center braces the ones off ebay? or?

Are there any aftermarket manufacturers out there who make a radio tray for the 777 w/ a lay-down steering servo?

Ebay ones. Lotus70.
Not sure about the radio tray, I like the upright myself.

[J_Bone]

I found these on Neo... 777 truggy!!
http://www.neobuggy.net/images/News/PC170007.JPG
http://www.neobuggy.net/images/News/PC170002.JPG
http://www.neobuggy.net/images/News/PC170010.JPG

[ALJR]

Ebay ones. Lotus70.
Not sure about the radio tray, I like the upright myself.

I have seen him on ebay.. I bought some parts for my KII from "rc-dragon", seems the two of them sell the same stuff.. Good parts cheap:)

[J_Bone]

I have seen him on ebay.. I bought some parts for my KII from "rc-dragon", seems the two of them sell the same stuff.. Good parts cheap:)
Ya, but certain parts can be ok like the chassis braces but I hear the knuckles are trouble.

[JamminJay]

RC Dragon, Lotus70... a copuple others.... all sell the same stuff, I have bought everything for mine except the rear hub carriers. I like the knuckles, however I did lose one of the 4mm screws that holds it in the 20* thingy(forget the name, it's 4:30am) even with loctite that sucker popped out.

[ALJR]

I did not care for my front knuckles that I received.. Mine broke (IMO) fairly easy! I cliped the rail going down the straight and the aluminum around the lower 4mm screw came apart, just like my stock part! My center braces held up just fine, but they don't see quite the same abuse a suspension part does..

Any one know if there is a way to fit the 777 with the Jammin's front knuckles? I really like that T-Bolt design. No need for loc-tite. Seems the stock (777 or 7.5) ones are really tuff (not impossible) to remove once there loc-tite'ed in (I use red because thats the only stuff that keeps the 4mm bolt in).. The loc-tite bonds with the flanged collar making it annoying to remove the bolt..

Aslo, I hear the Hot Bodies 7075 front knuckles are a direct fit in the 777! Is this true? Might be a viable option for the 777 at around $50. Just suspicious if it is true "billet" 7075 aluminum and not that import 7075 cast/machined junk..

[EZM]

what is the difference between the sp1 and sp2? what all would i need to convert to an sp2? how much better is the sp2 than the sp1? was there anything wrong with the sp1? why did they change it so quick? please let me know, im kinda new to these buggies

[supralative]

From what I gather and know
you will need:
SP2 stuff:
chassis
another rear universal
shock shafts
shock springs
turnbuckle for steering servo
shock towers(if you want)
maybe a couple of more small items too

[EZM]

Thanks for the info, i heard however that something in the suspension was made short i think it was the a-arms?is that true? is the sp2 chassi longer? does the sp1 share the same suspension as the sp2 or not?

[J_Bone]

Thanks for the info, i heard however that something in the suspension was made short i think it was the a-arms?is that true? is the sp2 chassi longer? does the sp1 share the same suspension as the sp2 or not?

The upper a-arms for the SP-1 are to long. I bought the short ones and only use the arm part and not the end. Works perfect.
Yes, the SP-2 chassis is longer.
Yes, the SP-1 and SP-2 share the same suspension with a minor difference.
1)Shock towers , front and rear
2)Longer springs with a different rate
3)Rear shock shaft is 3mm longer which gives it more droop.

[J_Bone]

From what I gather and know
you will need:
SP2 stuff:
chassis
another rear universal
shock shafts
shock springs
turnbuckle for steering servo
shock towers(if you want)
maybe a couple of more small items too

Only other item that is necessary IMO. Rear 2 degree anti squat plate (yellow).

[J_Bone]

I did not care for my front knuckles that I received.. Mine broke (IMO) fairly easy! I cliped the rail going down the straight and the aluminum around the lower 4mm screw came apart, just like my stock part! My center braces held up just fine, but they don't see quite the same abuse a suspension part does..

Any one know if there is a way to fit the 777 with the Jammin's front knuckles? I really like that T-Bolt design. No need for loc-tite. Seems the stock (777 or 7.5) ones are really tuff (not impossible) to remove once there loc-tite'ed in (I use red because thats the only stuff that keeps the 4mm bolt in).. The loc-tite bonds with the flanged collar making it annoying to remove the bolt..

Aslo, I hear the Hot Bodies 7075 front knuckles are a direct fit in the 777! Is this true? Might be a viable option for the 777 at around $50. Just suspicious if it is true "billet" 7075 aluminum and not that import 7075 cast/machined junk..

I have read of guys using Red loctite on the knuckles, but I've used Blue since June and have yet to have a problem with it. Stockers still holding up. "hexed myself now" :eek:

[dgrobe2112]

I did not care for my front knuckles that I received.. Mine broke (IMO) fairly easy! I cliped the rail going down the straight and the aluminum around the lower 4mm screw came apart, just like my stock part! My center braces held up just fine, but they don't see quite the same abuse a suspension part does..

Any one know if there is a way to fit the 777 with the Jammin's front knuckles? I really like that T-Bolt design. No need for loc-tite. Seems the stock (777 or 7.5) ones are really tuff (not impossible) to remove once there loc-tite'ed in (I use red because thats the only stuff that keeps the 4mm bolt in).. The loc-tite bonds with the flanged collar making it annoying to remove the bolt..

Aslo, I hear the Hot Bodies 7075 front knuckles are a direct fit in the 777! Is this true? Might be a viable option for the 777 at around $50. Just suspicious if it is true "billet" 7075 aluminum and not that import 7075 cast/machined junk..

I know your lookin for a replacement, here is something to consider, www.racers-edge.com the knucks are a little bit more than the 50 bux for Hot bodies knucks, however, Racers edge is hard anodized to make them stronger. Also, racers edge guarantees their parts, i have never broke one, however, if you do, send it back to them, and they will replace it for you.

[J_Bone]

I know Topcad mad stuff for the 7.5 series. Not sure if these will work.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_426_736_355_366_633&products_id=11171

[JamminJay]

I have read of guys using Red loctite on the knuckles, but I've used Blue since June and have yet to have a problem with it. Stockers still holding up. "hexed myself now" :eek:

I too lost my 4mm bold on the bottom using blue threadlock. Grrrr

[EZM]

Only other item that is necessary IMO. Rear 2 degree anti squat plate (yellow).


If the sp2 chassi is longer wouldnt I need longer chassi braces if i wanted to put solid alum ones on there instead of the ball end type? Also is there any mayor difference in drivetrainlike diffs or other things?

[EZM]

Only other item that is necessary IMO. Rear 2 degree anti squat plate (yellow).


If the sp2 chassi is longer wouldnt I need longer chassi braces if i wanted to put solid alum ones on there instead of the ball end type? Also is there any mayor difference in drivetrainlike diffs or other things?

[J_Bone]

If the sp2 chassi is longer wouldnt I need longer chassi braces if i wanted to put solid alum ones on there instead of the ball end type? Also is there any mayor difference in drivetrainlike diffs or other things?

You don't need new chassis braces, only if you want them. The SP-1 and SP-2 are the same. The hole in the chassis for the braces is moved so both will work.

The SP-1 has a shorter rear center axel. The SP-2 has the same front and rear.

[ALJR]

I have read of guys using Red loctite on the knuckles, but I've used Blue since June and have yet to have a problem with it. Stockers still holding up. "hexed myself now" :eek:

I hexed myself last season by saying the same exact thing! Later that same dat that I said it, I broke a stock knuckle. Since I said it, I have broken two stockers and one dragon "7075" one!

Your dun now!

:)


Thats nice to know about the racers edge warrantee.. They are my first choice now because of that..

[dgrobe2112]

Racers Edge has probably the best customer service of anyone i have ever dealt with on aftermarket parts. Steven Koons is the guy who answers the phone.. great guy to deal with.

[J_Bone]

That's good to know. I will be looking for knuckles soon.

[nitrohouse]

I know for a fact if you break a King Headz part, they will replace it for you...One of the main reasons I have been running their stuff...Plus the blue is so purty...

[freddan]

How good are the diffs in the MP777. They are made of cast alu and Mugen X5 diff bevel gears are made of hardened steel. Is there any advantage of cast alu ??

Thanks in advance.

[EZM]

are the mbx4-xr and sp1's wheels interchangeable? Are their brake disks?interchangeable?are the metal ones form the xr better than the fiberglass one that comes with the sp1? also are the mbx-5 shocks better than the ones that come with the sp1?

[nitrohouse]

EZM,
The wheels are interchangable..The brake discs are not...

The rest of your questions are preferential (opinion based) questions, that will have many different opinions...Both the Mugen and Kyosho are known for being the best of the bunch when it comes to their shocks...

The only difference really between the steel and alum. diff gear is weight...the alum. might wear a little faster, but racers are all about the drive line mass, and making it lighter...And if shimmed correctly, the alum. will last a very long time...

Have Fun...Burn Nitro...

[supralative]

Kyosho shocks hands down are the best.
Braking is a preference...I like the Thunder Tiger discs but they have to be modded to fit. I am running Craddocks now and they are not too bad.

No probs with my diffs yet. Whole buggy is going to get a rebuild here pretty soon for next season.

[nitrohouse]

"Kyosho shocks hands down are the best."

Point and case...

Now ask a Mugen owner and he'll say the Mugen shocks are by far the best...lol

Just goes to show, "we" love what "we" run...

Have Fun...Burn Nitro...I say...

[AreCee]

are the mbx4-xr and sp1's wheels interchangeable? Are their brake disks?interchangeable?are the metal ones form the xr better than the fiberglass one that comes with the sp1? also are the mbx-5 shocks better than the ones that come with the sp1?Wheels are interchangable.

SP1 uses a machined steel disk, not FG. Don't know where you came up with that one?

Shocks are as good as you can build and service them, both are excellent.

[EZM]

are the xr's rear turnbuckles better than the sp1's? because they look thicker than those on the sp1.

[EZM]

I forgot, are the bearings interchangeable as well?

[EZM]

here are the shocks i have they are both front shocks, mugen on the left and kyosho on the right, which ones are better? the kyosho ones are from an sp1 dont know if they are stock? and the mugens are what i believe to be the mbx-5's stock shocks. I kinda like the mugen shocks because they look thicker, but are shorter, and the kyosho sp1?shocks are good because they are longer, which ones would you take and be honest please.http://i22.imagethrust.com/t/169913/img0702.jpg (http://i22.imagethrust.com/p/169913/img0702_jpg.html)
http://i29.imagethrust.com/t/169914/img0704.jpg (http://i29.imagethrust.com/p/169914/img0704_jpg.html)

[AreCee]

Shorter shocks = less suspension travel

[nitrohouse]

Bearings should be 8x16x5, which are standard in most all buggies...

"Shorter shocks = less suspension travel"

Thats not necessarily true...It depends on the geometry that is used...With the correct geometry, the shorter shocks can have the same travel as the longer shocks...The only advantage to the longer shocks, is the extra pact it'll give to the feel of the shock...

EZM again your asking an opinionated question, and thats what you'll get for answers...Each persons opinion...Which can you get parts for more easily...That might be how you choose...

[EZM]

well i have both sets of shocks and will keep one but want to know which one is best overall meaning material it is made of and wich will last longer.

[freddan]

How are the self tapered screws in Mp777 kit? Are holes made so that you need a some force to screw the screw in? I mean - some resistance will make the buggy more durbable and if tight holes I can accept self tapered screws.

[freddan]

Well. I made a slight pause in buildding my mp777 (standard). The "only" thing I did until now was build the diffs. Man, those screws are sooooooooo tight... I feel a slight pain in my hands.

How are the rest of the screws in the kit. Are the rest of the screws tight as well?

[freddan]

Do KoPropo servos fit in the servo tray ?? and is the servo tray high enough for KoPropo servos?

[J_Bone]

How are the rest of the screws in the kit. Are the rest of the screws tight as well?
The Kyosho kit is a very tight fit. I had some forearm pump when building mine too. But I prefer that over having them too loose and backing out to easlly.



Do KoPropo servos fit in the servo tray ?? and is the servo tray high enough for KoPropo servos?
I don't use KoPropo servos but I heard a few people had to grind the servo tray to make them fit.

[J_Bone]

well i have both sets of shocks and will keep one but want to know which one is best overall meaning material it is made of and wich will last longer.

Like Nitrohouse posted, your best shock is designed for its buggy. Which ever shock is closest to the shock you are replacing will probably be the best.

Which buggy you installing them in?

[AreCee]

Bearings should be 8x16x5, which are standard in most all buggies...

"Shorter shocks = less suspension travel"

Thats not necessarily true...It depends on the geometry that is used...With the correct geometry, the shorter shocks can have the same travel as the longer shocks...The only advantage to the longer shocks, is the extra pact it'll give to the feel of the shock...

EZM again your asking an opinionated question, and thats what you'll get for answers...Each persons opinion...Which can you get parts for more easily...That might be how you choose...I was assuming based on his question that he planned to use the shocks on one car so in that case:
shorter shock = less travel.

You are correct that the design of the arms and pivots negates the length difference but in the same car, shorter is less.

[EZM]

I will be installing them on an sp1, but im not sure which ones are best, i mean are they both made of the same material? are they both equally matched or what? isnt the thicker bodies on the mugen one's better because they hold more oil therefore have a better damp rate?

[freddan]

How is the quality of the bearings on the mp777?? I know they are metal shielded but are they of superb quality? Are they comparable with the mugen x5:s bearings in terms of quality??

[dgrobe2112]

How is the quality of the bearings on the mp777?? I know they are metal shielded but are they of superb quality? Are they comparable with the mugen x5:s bearings in terms of quality??

I think they are great.. i cant compare to Mugen.. but i am sure they are at least the same quality. you can always change them out to some great bearings from www.avidrc.com if you need to.. for less than 20 bux

[MaghMan]

Hi everybody I am just getting started in this Hobby but I am a super quick learner. I have be doing this now for about 2 months now so after a ton of reach I have just ordered a Kyosho 1/8 Inferno MP 777 Special 2 NITRO 4WD BUGGY KIT form ebay for $599 shipped to my door I think is was a super good deal. Anyways I am writing to find out what the best engine would be for this car I was thinking about the NOVAROSSI RX21P5X RACE ENGINE P5 for it. Would this be a best choice or should I get something else. Also this is my first race buggy and from reading all the forms this is a good choice. Any feedback would be great. Also if someone could referr me to some good web sites for some rece turnamints that are around still just getting started with all this(in US and Canada). Thanks. For all the help.

PS. I am form the great white north Canada.

[dgrobe2112]

welcome to the world of 1/8 offroad racing.. be readyy for alot of fun.. you couldnt have picked a better car.. the handling and abilities of this car are great.. the P5 motor is also one of the best engines there are. I run that motor for big races.. and for club racing i run the 3 port rossi engine. I am very pleased with the 3 port.. for 180 bux.. thats a great motor. you cant go wrong with the P5. I will never run a different engine.. unless someone hooks me up with a sponsor.. :)

[MaghMan]

Don't mean to be a noob but what is the difference between being sponsored and not. Do they get a better engine? Also how good do you have to be to get sponsored? Thanks for the input. Also are there any alternative to the P5 with the same types of specs?

[MaghMan]

I forgot to thank you dgrobe2112 for the input...

[MaghMan]

Hi can you recommnd any good hop up's I may need or can get for this car out of the box.

[EZM]

get shocktowers, braces,screws,bearings,diffs and shock springs lol

[MaghMan]

Wow all those are upgrades i should get out of the box? Or just some good upgrades that I should get to make it better? Thanks for the info EZM.

[dgrobe2112]

no.. dont worry bout those things.. knuckles.. and braces.. those are the only things i would suggest for the SP2.. but.. alot of guys dont do the braces.. for the flex.. the knuckles, stock are kinda weak.. but.. they will work if you dont wreck alot.. hahah

here is my new toy..
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c41/RCaction/DanielGrobe001.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c41/RCaction/DanielGrobe005.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c41/RCaction/DanielGrobe002.jpg

[Mika]

Also are there any alternative to the P5 with the same types of specs?

Other popular ones are OS Engines buggy V-Spec, RB Concept WS7II and C5 and Sirio SBK21 EvoII among others (prices vary depending on continent&location)

[Mika]

Cool Car Dg!

[J_Bone]

YO dgrobe2112 !!!
I checked out my buddies MSR 777 and it's sweet!!!
He uses CRT a-arms and CRT axels and it gets rid of the hub adaptors. Since all Jammin stuff is based off Kyosho it bolted right up.

[ALJR]

J Bone, Do you know if the Jammin CRT front steering knuckles fit in the 777? I really like that T-bolt design..

[J_Bone]

From what I was told (yesterday), they will fit. He said the Jammin ones are cheaper than Kyosho and will fit, but I would try to fit one before buying it online.
As a matter of fact I'm going to try it myself in the next few weeks.

[hoopdog]

Ok guys,,maybe someone can help with this one. Is the Kyosho part # KYO92616 the same as # KYOCIFW49. Just curious if they are the same clutch bell. The part number KYO92616 is for a 16 tooth low profile bell and I was wondering if Kyosho changed the part number to the KYOCIFW number.

Banging my head against the wall!!

[MaghMan]

Other popular ones are OS Engines buggy V-Spec, RB Concept WS7II and C5 and Sirio SBK21 EvoII among others (prices vary depending on continent&location)


Thanks that was what I was looking for. Also are they all .21 moters? what would u get? or what do u have? Thanks Mika and dgrobe2112 for the tips...

[MaghMan]

no.. dont worry bout those things.. knuckles.. and braces.. those are the only things i would suggest for the SP2.. but.. alot of guys dont do the braces.. for the flex.. the knuckles, stock are kinda weak.. but.. they will work if you dont wreck alot.. hahah

here is my new toy..
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c41/RCaction/DanielGrobe001.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c41/RCaction/DanielGrobe005.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c41/RCaction/DanielGrobe002.jpg

Hey dgrobe2112 is this a truggy mp777?

[MaghMan]

Is the SIRIO S21 PR PRO made for the buggy?? Thanks

[1822]

It will fit if that's what you need to know.

[Mika]

I think SIRIO S21 PR PRO is an onroad engine, not good for offroading, though it will fit. If you think about Sirio get the K2 evo green head engine; I have it and so far it's been working flawlessly in training sessions and has plenty of power - can hang with P5's and others no prob (haven't raced it yet though, like my RB C5). Carbs are bit weird though, seem to turn a bit too easily in my opinion. Maybe it is just me.

[dgrobe2112]

maghman, yes, that is a MSR 777 truggy, converted another buggy i had to the truggy. me personally, i like the P5, i have had a Vspec, while it is fast as heck, just not as reliable as my P5 was, also, the WS7II, was a great engine, just had to clutch it hard, in order for i to have the bottom end my P5 had. Never had a C5, but they rip.. The sirio engines like mika said.. are tough to tune, one guy here is a kanai fanatic.. and got the kanai engine.. and i tried to help him with tune.. crazy.. only Sirio engine i ever used is the Collari B3, had to change the carb to a P5 carb.. :)

[JamminJay]

Well guys, finally got to the track yesterday for practice times. First time I have been to the track for the winter series due to lack of money and other things going on in my life. Also the first time I have gotten to run the buggy on an actual track, since I finished the build up in the summer. Man I loved it. I will also agree to the P5. my car was pretty dialed the way I had it set-up.(thanx DG) all i had to do was set a lil more break, and increase my steering throw on the 3pk, and she was good. I don't know what all you guys were talking about on the sp1??? I could come out of the last corner, into the long straight, and all I had to do was point and shoot, she was planted. I know alot of you complained the sp1 wasn't doing that? I let a few of my buddies up there, particularly X5 racers, and they all said the same thing....handles awesome, and definatly has balls. :) One of our "better" locals was up there, and I we were racing back and forth quite a bit. I just need to become a better driver :rolleyes:

Now my truck, I melted the diff gear after a couple times out. Can you enlighten me on this DG? Last time I rebuilt it, I built it by the book. It had about 6 or 7 races on it, plus some driving in my backyard, and after all that now it's gonna melt? I don't get it. Thanx.

[freddan]

Now my truck, I melted the diff gear after a couple times out. Can you enlighten me on this DG? Last time I rebuilt it, I built it by the book. It had about 6 or 7 races on it, plus some driving in my backyard, and after all that now it's gonna melt? I don't get it. Thanx.

Did the bevel diff gears melt? Those made of cast alu? Please specify what kind of diff gear it was.
Thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

Jay, your talkin bout your Losi right?? if so, sounds like the diff was too loose.. you want to make sure that the slipper slips before the diff does, the way to do that is to hold the right rear tire in the palm of your hand, and with your index finger, put it on the spur gear, then turn the left rear tire. "Be careful while doing this, dont do it too hard, as to break the diff bolt" you will want the slipper pad to slip before the diff. if its really hard to turn, and the slipper doesnt slip, loosen the slipper nut bout 1/8th of a turn, until it starts to slip and your able to turn the left rear wheel, and the slipper turns with it.. "not too loose" that it spins easy, but just wants to be tight, but spins.. hope that makes sense..

congrats on getting back out there, if im not mistaken.. i thought you raced indoors, the traction levels indoors is insane most of the time.. my car was great indoors, and i think the setup i had on the SP1, was an easy to drive setup.. lot of testing i did on that setup to get the loosness out of it..

[JamminJay]

DG, you are correct on everything... yes, my Losi and yes when I rebuilt it I did all this, even double checked after you run it a bit like your supposed to. Is it possible it became loose on its own? Is this something I chould check like each race? Before I rebuilt it last time I raced all winter season on it with no problems, so I am used to not touching it.
Yes I run on an indoor clay track, the layout yesterday wasnt too technical. rough as hell, which is unusual, 2 sets of doubles and a tabletop. I think they made a layout for all the "after xmas rtr buyers" lmao.


BTW, i'm not a big fan of truggies, but I must say I am a little envious of that one you got there. Looks awesome.

[dgrobe2112]

its the paint job.. hahah.. my painter Tommy Rushton has been kickin out some great paint jobs lately. My buggy body is sweeter than the truck body , but i like both.

Yes, it is possible for the diff to loosen itself up. Especially after a rebuild. they say after a couple runs, it needs to be rechecked... because the diff rings will get a groove in them from the diff balls.. what i do, is after a rebuild, is kinda a break in procedure.. i start the truck, hold one wheel, and give it some gas.. so the other wheel turns, then switch wheels.. hold the other wheel, so the other wheel turns. do this for about 10 second intervals.. switching bout 3-4 times.. then kill the motor, and recheck the diff..

[JamminJay]

Ok, thanx... I'll try that this time. you prolly wonder why i never post questions in the xxxnt thread, but I dont see a point to. I have asked before and not gotten answers there. I know here, I can ask you, since you had the same truck and raced as well, and not only will get an answer..it will be in a timely fashion as well, as one I can rely on. ;) I appreciate all the help and advice you always give me.

[dgrobe2112]

im always open, your more than welcome to ask. and if i dont know the answer, i will find the answer.. :)

[J_Bone]

Hey Jay,
The SP-1 will work great on an indoor track. The dirt is usually better quality and taken care of which gives better traction. I like my SP-1 too, but the SP-2 hooked up much better on my track which is an Outdoor track that gets real bumpy and loose top layer. The top layer was the culprit of the rear end issues on the SP-1. But when I got the SP-2 I noticed more control and it helped with the rear end. What it did was slow it down so it would not come around as hard and loose control. That's the difference. The SP-1 might be a better indoor setup with the quicker handling!

[dgrobe2112]

exactly.. very well put j...