Inferno MP777

[Little_Horn]

I think it's time to create a thread about the MP777, where everybody can read the latest information about this new Kyosho buggy.

Right now, we already know that there will be 3 versions of this buggy:

The standard version (just like the regular mp 7.5);

The special version (just like a kanai 3);

And the special version with kanai sirio engine (just like a kanai 3 with engine included).

The news thread about this buggy is: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164701

I already pre-ordered my mp777 (standard) at my LHS. This will be my first 1/8 TT nitro buggy.

[dgrobe2112]

yopu pre ordered yours.. how much is it gonna be?? also.. can anyone remember the differences between this one.. and the current 7.5??? Do you know the release date on it?

[munim]

My question is, is this version what the MP-6 was to the MP-5 or what the MP-7.5 was to the MP-6?

[Little_Horn]

The guy at my LHS told me that the standard version isn't more expensive than a standard 7.5, so the price should be about the same. And for what i've been reading, the special version should be about the same of a K3.

About the differences, belive me, they are there. They are just subtle. I read somewhere that 80% (i think...) of the buggy is different, but as I said, they are subtle.

I made the original post some time ago but it only got "live" now, and now the standard version fotos don't work. Sorry guys...

[dgrobe2112]

i read some of the differences.. like lower COG servo tray.. still c-hub.. motor moved more to the center.. stuff like that.. 4mm shocks.. hopefully they get some good chassis braces.. stuff like that.. Ofna has good chassis braces and stuff in theirs from the box.. i got the racers edge on my K2

[Little_Horn]

I forgot to say that it is suposed to come out in July.

[dgrobe2112]

allright.. july.. gonna be available here?? or just in Japan or asia..

[Little_Horn]

I saw in your public profile that you are from TX (Texas, right...?), because you forgot to mention it. I'm from Portugal, a little country side by side with Spain (left side). The Euro 2004 Soccer Championship is being held here.
Anyway, that's what the LHS guy told me, so it's not only in Japan or Asia, but europe also. As for USA, I think that it will be available around the same time. I know many people complain (a little) about Great Planes, so you should ask those people if Great Planes (USA Kyosho distributor) usualy get the products around the same time Europe or Asia do.
I think there's no reason for a big delay, if it exists. If I were you, I would count on July or August at the most.

[atm92484_3]

So the whole purpose of this post is to torture us Americans, many of whom won't see this car until long after the snow starts falling? ;)

[Little_Horn]

LOL. That was not my objective and you know it... ;)
The fact is, it all depends on Great Planes.
As I said before, talk to the guys in the kanai 3 or kanai 2 forums about great planes. Ask if GP is usually on "schedule" or not.
I really don't know the american market... :confused:
I got my information from my LHS and Kyosho France (http://www.kyosho.fr).
All I really know for now is Europe. :o
Sorry...

[Little_Horn]

I was browsing the french kyosho forums and found a post about the differences between the special and standard version.
I really don't know very well certain terms in english, much less in french, but I'll do my best:

treated chassis;
reversed screws (the screws used for the camber settings);
titanium bolts;
servo saver;
engines holder (supports the engine; conects the engine to the chassis);
shock towers;
LSD front diff.

This is not yet confirmed and there could be more (I believe there is...).

Here's a picture:
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products/car_bike/buggy/inferno_mp777/mp777sp/img/01.jpg

You can see more detailed information in Kyosho Japan site. Here's the translated link: http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_pagecontent?lp=ja_en&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww.kyosho.co.jp%2fweb%2fproducts %2fcar_bike%2fbuggy%2findex-j.html.

The Special version is called: Special 1.

The prices are:
Standard -> 56700 Yen = 521.283 US Dollar = 430.295 Euro
Special 1 -> 81900 Yen = 752.965 US Dollar = 621.538 Euro
Special 1 with SIRIO 21BK Kanai Edition (I think, 2nd Edition) engine -> 126000 Yen = 1,158.41 US Dollar = 956.212 Euro

[Little_Horn]

Ok. This is the official list from the Kyosho Japan site (translated from Japanese to English with babelfish):

*Hard alumite main chassis
*The gear (LSD) it equips on the front
*Universal center shaft
*High intensity F/R damper stay
*SP brake disk
*Adjustable tie rod
*SP hard upper rod (F/R)
*Adjustable S/T rod
*SPL antenna holder II
*Teflon resin cutting damper piston
*Lightweight spur gear
*Heat sink fin equipment high accuracy aluminum cutting alumite processing SP engine mount
*High accuracy aluminum cutting mechanic POS
*High accuracy aluminum cutting wing stay
*It is low the friction finishing damper case

[munim]

We'll probably get them after IFMAR. After Kyosho wins it, they'll put that "IFMAR World Champion 2004" on the box. I know they're gonna win, standard stuff really...

[RDucky02]

I have been looking at getting into 1/8th racing again. I own a 7.5 but had to end last years race season half way thourhg because of a my son being born. Anyway, I thought I would check out this new 777 and I looked on tower. They have it listed at 549.99 for the standard version and 849.99 for the Special 1. they did not have the Special 1 wiht engine one there yet. They had it labeled as Late August... looks like the states get screwed once again. that and 550 for the buggy... thanks but ill have to take a look at the bank and maybe stick with my current 7.5

dave

[Little_Horn]

Well, don't complain to much...

mp777 -> 549.99 US Dollar = 454.575 Euro
The 7.5 here in my country (Portugal) costs around 550 Euro

mp777 Special 1 -> 849.99 US Dollar = 702.529 Euro
The kanai 3 here in my country costs around 770 Euro

So, as you can see, we portuguese pay a higher price... But that's not only with kyosho, it's with everything (food, medicine, gas, phone, etc... ALL).
I know that in USA, Kyosho is a bit overpriced (compared to other brands), but that's the price to pay for the best buggy (imo).

[dgrobe2112]

i agree little horn.. you pay for what you get.. and kyosho is a competative buggy every year.. and multi championships to prove it

[OldskoolGT]

I think you save money and frustration in the long run with Kyosho. On the buggy I had before my K2, I spent $150 just replacing worn and broken CVA axles in less than 1 season of racing. Quality was so bad on that car that some newly replaced parts broke the very first time out.

[Little_Horn]

I agree.


Munim, don't underestimate kyosho's opponents.
There are excellent drivers from other brands also.
For example, Mugen is also very strong.
In the end, it all comes down to the best driver, and maybe a bit of luck (the champion's star...), or bad luck. Who knows???
Of course that Kyosho is the world chamipon for a long time, but that doesn't mean it will surelly be the champ. again.

We all have to keep humble and competitive. Don't forget this!

Kyosho is very competitive, but the other brands are also.

[OldskoolGT]

HoBao is going to win the 2004 IFMAR. Mikael Pallson (a HoBao driver) *owns* the track that the race is going to be run at. And the track is like 80% concrete and hasn't been changed in a long time. Even the 777 can't overcome a home field advantage like that.

[munim]

I agree.


Munim, don't underestimate kyosho's opponents.
There are excellent drivers from other brands also.
For example, Mugen is also very strong.
In the end, it all comes down to the best driver, and maybe a bit of luck (the champion's star...), or bad luck. Who knows???
Of course that Kyosho is the world chamipon for a long time, but that doesn't mean it will surelly be the champ. again.

We all have to keep humble and competitive. Don't forget this!

Kyosho is very competitive, but the other brands are also.

Hehe, my comments were just a friendly jab at anyone happening to read this thread. You are absolutely correct in that it takes a lot of driver skill and pure luck. The car also has to do something with it but not that much anymore as the quality is pretty much equal in the top contenders.

[RDucky02]

little horn- you do make legitamate responses. and you do pay for what you get. i bought a tmaxx about 2 or 3 years ago and all i did was put money into it so it didnt break every time i drove it. when the MGT came out I backordered it within the first week it was on the net on tower. i waited 11 months for it and finally about $520 later i had my truck. ive put moenyu into this truck as well but when it was stock i didnt have problems with it like my tmaxx. i might sell my heli... im 20 and have a son as ive said before. but ild like to learn to fly a heli. but maybe later on i can learn when i have more money to spend on a heli, we'll see what the boss says. that or the credit card company.

[OldskoolGT]

The car also has to do something with it but not that much anymore as the quality is pretty much equal in the top contenders.

IMHO, no companies match Kyosho quality. Other buggies have engineering deficiencies on various parts, while the Kyosho is race ready out of the box.


So what's up with those purple parts in the last pic? I sure hope the SP1 comes with blue parts like on Kanai's buggy.

[dgrobe2112]

I think they are blue.. just the camera angle makes them look purple..

[Little_Horn]

OldskoolGT, if you pay attention, you can see in the first post of this thread that all the alu. parts are blue.
They are all pictures of the Special 1 version.
I think, as dgrobe2112 said, that's just the camera angle.
The alu. color in the detailed pics. is a little more purple. But that's just a light "trick".
I just love blue... :)

[OldskoolGT]

Hey, I was paying attention. The first pic in the thread is Yuichi Kanai's 777 and the parts are blue.

[uDi_MP75]

My question is, is this version what the MP-6 was to the MP-5 or what the MP-7.5 was to the MP-6?

It's what the MP6 was to the MP5. Not even that, but thats JMO.

[Little_Horn]

Yes. But the rest of the pictures are from the mp777 special 1 (not the kanai's buggy), and the parts are also blue.
The standard version pictures are the ones that don't work anymore.

[uDi_MP75]

I think he MEANT the "special" when he said kanais buggy. Dude its the same sh*% different bucket. Who cares about Kyosho wants us to call it. I think special sounds gay, they should have called it international. that sounds so much cooler.

Anyway on to the questions:

1. anyone know the dry weight of this thing?
I noticed less chassis milling on this buggy than the K3, are we working backwards, or are kyosho just doing it on purpose so they have something to change when the Special-2 comes out?

2. does anyone know whether the shock bodies are actually of a larger diameter than the original 3.5 shocks? just wondering. I can't tell from the pics.

3. are the engine mounts actually any lower than the 7.5 engine mounts? curious again.

4. are the suspension arms actually longer, and how much longer? im sure someone posted this before but i forget.


i like the new front c-hub design (its pretty), the upside down servo saver, and the idea of 4mm shock shafts. thats it so far though.

[dgrobe2112]

i wonder.. can i turn my servo saver upside down?? on my 7.5.. never thought of it.. just curious though

[OldskoolGT]

I don't think the 7.5's servo saver can be mounted upside down.


Anyone here have any experience with the Sirio Kanai engine?

[Little_Horn]

I think he MEANT the "special" when he said kanais buggy.

I don't know if he meant or not, but I know that in the first picture, you can see the green body used by Kanai, green wheels and green wing, also used by kanai. Plus, the body says Kanai. So, it really is Kanais buggy (special 1).

The special 1 body is painted yellow, and also blue (and maybe some other colors...), the wheels are yellow and the wing is also yellow.

To answer some of your questions, try the japanese kyosho site (not the english version).

[Marsh23]

i wonder.. can i turn my servo saver upside down?? on my 7.5.. never thought of it.. just curious though


thats what it looks like to me.. upside down servo saver and the the arm, its ends are up, not like the ke2's where there bent down a bit. It looks like a good buggy, just a KE3 with some more inprovements, should have keepts with the 7.5, or gone with the MP 8 for that matter. Now we have the mp 7.5, ke2, ke3, mp 777, MBX 5 the hoped up verson of the Mbx5, you have the Ofna's 9/9.5 then you have this new company coming out with XB8..... I'll stick with my KE2 and see how this new one preforms, i was leaning towards the MBX5 as a back up or another racer to mix things up, but I'll wait. Speaking of mugen, i think they brought out this limited ed mbx5 to contend with the MP777?? :confused:

just my .02

[dgrobe2112]

The new MBX5 is called the ProSPEC.. lots of hopup parts.. like thicker shock towers.. better chassis braces.. and all that.. and i think Kyosho should consider doing that with the Kanai Edition.. the Kanai edition car.. while much better than the standard version.. should come with at least some better chassis braces.. and thicker shock towers.. just my opinion.. for the money you spend..

The new XB8.. is an XRAY car.. looks very nice.. i think it is gonna be the buggy to get.. has lots of nice stuff.. and comes with HUDY tools in the kit.. and a rechargeable 1200 battery pack.. 2 sets of shock springs.. 2 sets of clutch springs.. the car is great.. looks great..

[Marsh23]

The new MBX5 is called the ProSPEC.. lots of hopup parts.. like thicker shock towers.. better chassis braces.. and all that.. and i think Kyosho should consider doing that with the Kanai Edition.. the Kanai edition car.. while much better than the standard version.. should come with at least some better chassis braces.. and thicker shock towers.. just my opinion.. for the money you spend..

The new XB8.. is an XRAY car.. looks very nice.. i think it is gonna be the buggy to get.. has lots of nice stuff.. and comes with HUDY tools in the kit.. and a rechargeable 1200 battery pack.. 2 sets of shock springs.. 2 sets of clutch springs.. the car is great.. looks great..

At least i knew what ones there where :rolleyes: some people on here think they know what there talking about, but thats a diffrent tread. I Do like the fact the the Xray XB8 comes with its own tools and some dam good goodies toboot, should give the other makers something to think about when shipping there new buggys. I'm still thinking MBX ProSpec, but waiting on this XB8 for another buggy. I have had a few stock 7.5's and this is my first Kanai, so we will see, Next payday im ordering the WS7-II and an RB airfilter system, and im ready to hit the track, ill post a thread about it once i get it broken in.

[Little_Horn]

Well guys, about the "missing" pictures from the standard version. I found something a little odd... When the pictures don't show up, if you right click, choose properties, copy the url and paste it in the browser, the picture shows up. After you do this, the picture will show up in the thread too.

But to avoid so much trouble, you can go directly to the site clicking on this url: http://www.pbase.com/mmakino/radiocon_show_shizuoka&page=2.

You can find some Kyosho pictures, but the ones that matter the most are in page 2, 3 and 4 (mp777 standard and Special 1).

Enjoy them... ;)

[RDucky02]

with this new MP777 coming out do you think that the 7.5 will be harder to get parts for because of the new 777?

[Little_Horn]

Nope. In fact, at first, i think it will be harder to find parts for the mp777. because it's a new buggy. I believe that the mp 7.5 parts will be around for a long time. I mean, we can still find parts for the mp 6... mp 7.5 will continue to be a very competitive buggy, for a very long time.
I will buy the mp777 because I don't have any buggy at all. If I had the 7.5, I would still keep it for some time.

[RDucky02]

i believe someone asked earlier if anyone was running the kanai engine and wondered how it faired but no one responded. so now i will ask it again. any run it and whats there thoughts on it?

[Little_Horn]

There's a new 4 mins. mp777 video in kyosho japan's site. The link (translated) is: http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_pagecontent?lp=ja_en&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww.kyosho.co.jp%2fweb%2fdownload %2fmovie%2f2004shizuoka_hs%2finferno-j.html.

Go there, but don't save any of the files, they wont work because of the translator.

Right click on one of the links below:

Windows Media (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/download/movie/2004shizuoka_hs/wmp/inferno.wmv)

Real Media (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/download/movie/2004shizuoka_hs/real/inferno.rm)

Enjoy it.
I know I did... ;)

[Little_Horn]

Well, it has started...

The mp777 is already for sale in Japan, from the 1st of July 2004.

You can check it on Kyosho Japan's website, in the "what's new" section.
You can see it in: http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_pagecontent?lp=ja_en&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww.kyosho.co.jp%2fweb%2ftop-j.html (translated to english).

[RDucky02]

anyone live in japan want to buy me one and ship it to me? :cD (wishful thinking)

[dgrobe2112]

you could wait a couple days.. cuz they will have them on ebay soon...

[KanaiDude]

Yea maybe around Christmas I'll go for the 777 I'm gonna wait it out a little, I agree the 777 should come with better braces thicker towers that would make me happy. What about the Mayhem? I don't think all that much of it but some guys are talking it up pretty good. And then we have a ton of hypers at my track people freaking love those cars (i can't figure out why) that MBX5 prospec is sweet. I'll wait for the 777 it will be my next purchase...

[dgrobe2112]

pro spec.. is very nice.. i think with that cars release.. kyosho should look into providing better stuff with the Kanai.. or special editions.. since the X5 is cheaper than the Kanai.. now the prospec will prolly be competative in price to the Kanai.. that kyosho will look into it..

[Little_Horn]

There is already a shop (in Japan, I think) selling the mp777. The url is: http://www.rc-sharaku.com/newparts.htm.

You can also download the setup sheet (in japanese and english) from kyosho japan: http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/download/setting/data/inferno777_blank.pdf.

[Marsh23]

Towerhobbies is saying $849 for the special and $549, and will not be in till September there saying.

[atm92484_3]

The list price on the Special is $799.99; that $849 is just their usual jacked up prerelease price. The K3s were that same price when they came out just over 6 months ago so hopefully the trend will continue and there will be a nice price drop by this time next year.

[Little_Horn]

My LHS (Portugal - Europe) says 450 € (548.910 US Dollar) for the standard and 730 € (890.454 US Dollar ) for the special one.
Believe me when I say that the price I'm gonna pay is less then the mp 7.5 standard (550 €) and Kanai 3 (780 €).
So this means that, the mp777 is a good deal to me. Cheaper and more recent.
We pay alot of taxes here, so your price should be much lower.
One stange thing is it being only available in September.
Are you shure???
You really need to buy from Japan or Hong Kong or whatever...
This is very WRONG!!!
There's some bad ppl at great planes, lol...
I think that now I truelly understand why so many US ppl use other brands.

[OldskoolGT]

Yup. If Kyosho distributed their own stuff like Mugen and had lower prices, Kyosho would probably dominate the market here in the USA.


I noticed the 777 SP1 has the same retail price (in Japan) as the Kanai 3. So I imagine that Ultimate hobbies should be able to sell them for the same price as the K3 eventually.

[C.J.OO]

Farout I own A Kanai2 and love it dearly...
But that thing is the bees knees What a Monster of a buggy...
If you can Drive half decently and you get one of these Then I almost Gaurentee a podium finish every time...I love these things...

[Little_Horn]

I have excellent news (at least for me... lol). My LHS already has the buggy, so I'm getting it today.
I think I'll be up all night... ;)
This is my first 1/8 TT buggy.
I already own a 2wd electric rally car and a Mini-Z, so this is also my first nitro.
Later, I'll give you more details.
I don't have a digital camera. If I had, I would fotograph every step of the mouting process.
But eventually I'll borrow one to take some pictures of the complete buggy.

[dgrobe2112]

lucky.. lucky.. lucky.. wish you had a camera so we could all enjoy it with you.. hahah

[Little_Horn]

Well. I made a slight pause in buildding my mp777 (standard). The "only" thing I did until now was build the diffs. Man, those screws are sooooooooo tight... I feel a slight pain in my hands.
I also got a RB Sport engine and a Team Magic starter box (this one let's me start all kinds of R/C cars, from 1/10 to 1/8, TT or Track). I didn't have much money, or else I would have bought a Sirio Kanai Engine. :)
Anyway, the buggy is great. In fact is much better than mp 7.5 (standard).
The mp777 now has front and rear chassis braces, steel balls, 4mm shock shafts, etc...
The mp777 is a big plus over the 7.5.

I'm so proud of my new "baby"! :D

Well guys, I'm going back to the "buildding process".
See you later. :cool:

[Little_Horn]

I just found a site with pictures of the buildding process of a MP777 Special One. The link is: http://www.radiocontrol.gr/galleries/galmp777010704/index.htm.

Hope you enjoy it. ;)

[RDucky02]

any more at your LHS? I would so pay you to buy me one and ship it to me.

[Little_Horn]

One thing I forgot. For the MP777, ppl are using 20º intead of 22º. You can see that in the first picture from the above link.
The reason for this is because now, the mp777 has more steering.

[RDucky02]

already a special 1 on ebay for those in the US. Its in LA....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=49213&item=5907260253&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

[Little_Horn]

I think there's only 3 MP777 special one. The standard ones are already pre-sold. But, Right now I don't have any money. I spent it, to the last cent, to buy my buggy.
I can give you the url to my LHS (please see the prices on the previous page), so you e-mail the guy: http://www.poleposition-pt.com.
I don't know if he ships overseas, but go ahead and ask if you like.

[dgrobe2112]

little horn.. you lucky dawg.. haha..

[Little_Horn]

Yeah, I feel lucky... ;)

One question. When I was mounting my stabilizer bar, screwing one of the two little pieces of plastic that holds it to the gear box, one of the holes got a little chewd up (overtight).
Does this really matter? I don't think so, but in any case, can I use thread lock to tighten the screw? Or the T.L. will harm the plastic?
In case it does, is there another way to correct this (longer screw, glue, etc...)?

Thanks.

[munim]

Don't use the threadlock, it might damage the plastic although I have tried it on another buggy will no real ill effects. You could just screw it in, or drill out the threads and just use a slightly larger screw. In fact, even better would be to use a machine screw.

[dgrobe2112]

dont use thread lock.. you can use clear nail polish.. that will work.. to hold the screw in..

[Little_Horn]

Thanks guys. But I did another wrong thing. I have put to much thread lock in the bolt that holds the knuckle arm to the front hub carrier. Now the bolt is stuck to the knuckle arm collar! Any way to undo this, without destroying anything (front hub carrier)?
For now, this doesn't matter. The bolt is securelly tight and the stearing is very smoth. But in case I need to remove these for maintenance, it will be a pain in the but.

Thanks.

[munim]

Yes, that is a well known pain in the butt. What you should have done is put the threadlock in the threads, installed it between the carrier and then screwed in the bolt. don't try to screw it out or else the knuckle's threads will strip. You can be a little creative and try different things but I haven't read a real tried and true cure for this, maybe someone else has. So for now, just leave it because who knows, maybe you'll never break a part on there, ;)

[rc-empire]

what's the between Kanai 3 and MP777 special? :confused:

[Little_Horn]

Kanai 3 has some titanium bolts, a lightned chassis, rear shocks are longer (but there's ppl complaining about something popping out if you use the full extension of the shocks).
The special one chassis is a little shorter (not lightned), don't really know if rear shocks are longer or not (but I think they aren't), no titanium bolts, lower center of gravitty, new differentials (new shape), motor mount and center differential more close to the center of the buggy, some arms (don't know wich) are more like mugen's (more resistent), new wheels (color and shape), wing and wheels' color is yellow (instead of green), new name (lol) and maybe something else...

[Little_Horn]

I drove today, for the first time, my mp777 with a RB Sport. That engine is sooooooooo tight :eek: , but now it is starting fine. I'm still breaking in the engine and i looooooooooove the smell of nitro. It smells so good that I could get high on that stuff, lol..... :D
I really loved the entire process of building this machine and now I'm enjoying the engine tuning process and the linkages adjustments.

I really love doing it myself. Nitro is just the perfect thing for me.

Ohhh, I almost forgot! The engine sound is great. Can't wait to start leanning it for more power and more screaming. ;)

[dgrobe2112]

the front upper arms are more swooped like the mugen.. not sure on the rear shocks.. of the new 777.. but like little horn stated.. better COG over all on the buggy.. motor.. center diff.. lower COG radio tray.. different steering rack.. updated suspension geometry in general.. different wheels.. no biggy..

K3 rear universals are too short.. for the longer suspension travel of the K3 rear shocsk.. so alot of people had unis popping out.. fix for that was a set of front unis.. they were i think 3mm longer than the stock rear unis..

[rc-empire]

Thank you very much! I think I will pick a MP 777 instead of Kanai 3 :D . Which version you bought, normal or special 1?

[OldskoolGT]

No titanium screws with the SP1?? Thats quite a bummer after having the K3 come with so many ti screws.

[dgrobe2112]

titanium screw.. bah.. not really impressed with those.. but i am pretty impressed with the buggy.. i am thinkin of selling my buggy to get this one..

[OldskoolGT]

I plan on taking the ti screws off my K3 and putting them on the 777 I will get someday.

Ti screws are not really going to help my lap times, but they are so much lighter (1/2 weight of steel) they really do save a few ounces.

[Little_Horn]

I bought the standard version. The mp777 standard is of much bigger value than the standard mp 7.5.
The mp777 has more stuff (click on this link to read the above post about some differences: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1488153&postcount=53 )...

[windellmc]

Little Horn - Does your 777 have the blue shocks or the silver-grey ones?

[Buggy Master]

windellmc, i just got my mp777 special 1 yesterday and it came with silver ones.

[windellmc]

Where is everyone getting them in the US? What prices?

[Little_Horn]

I think the special one has blue springs and white (1.4) pistons.
The standard has black springs and black (1.3) pistons (this I'm sure).
But I'll confirm the special one stuff.

Buggy Master, are you sure you got the special one version???

[Little_Horn]

Buggy Master, does your special one have white pistons?
Just tell me, how many holes does your crown gear (center diff.) have (in case you're wondering, the special one crown gear is lightned)?

[Little_Horn]

Now I'm sure. Click here (http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_pagecontent?lp=ja_en&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww.kyosho.co.jp%2fweb%2fproducts %2fcar_bike%2fbuggy%2finferno_mp777%2fmp777sp%2fmp 777sp-j.html) to go to Kyosho Japan (translated in English) and you can see that the special one has blue springs.

[Buggy Master]

haven't check here in a couple of days. yes, i do have the special 1 and yes, it has 18 holes drilled out on the spur gear and white pistons.

windellmc, i got it on line from hong kong. check rc-mushroom or rc-union. are you refering to the color of the shock body or color of the springs. on the box pictures, it shows blue colored shock bodies but it comes with silver ones. as for springs, its the blue ones.

[Little_Horn]

The shock bodies from the special one are different too. They have more capacity. Don't know about the color.

[KTse2020]

Hi all!

Delighted to tell eveyone that I have won my first race with my MP777 Special 1. There were around 18 cars and it was just a causal Sunday afternoon race. There were two 15mins heats and I got Q2. The final was 20 mins long and somehow I managed to have a 1/2 lap lead by the end of it.

(I have pictures but don't have a host. If anyone can kindly host the pics for me it would be great)

This car really handles well especially in the tight turns. If anyone is thinking of getting this car...go for it! Might be a bit expensive but its worth every penny. :)

[OldskoolGT]

Sweet. Can you tell us how the 777 compares to your previous buggy?

[KTse2020]

http://www.image-hosting-cheap.com/image_hosting/web_pages/KTse2020/CIMG1641.JPG
http://www.image-hosting-cheap.com/image_hosting/web_pages/KTse2020/CIMG1656.JPG

Well this is only my second 1/8 buggy. First buggy I had was a Power Racing Swift which I got back in May. The Swift understeer a lot. I just had to wait and wait until the car turns in...then put the power on and exit the corner. The 777 has so much more initial turn in response. Maybe it is the difference between C-hub and Pivot Ball steering since I saw a few MBX-5's also struggling to turn-in to some tight hairpins.

Overall I just think that the car is very well balance, and I have a lot more "direct" control over the car. If I want to take it easy the car will listen to me; If I want to go wild and drift through corners I feel I'm in total control. I was going to wait for Xray XB8 but I really doubt Xray has figured something out to beat Kyosho after owning the 777 myself. :)

[dgrobe2112]

Man.. seeing these pics.. of the new car.. makes me want to just splurge and go get one.. :( just cant give into the pressure.. haha

[kanairacer69]

:mad: Men I dont know what to do I pre-order my k3 from Japan and I was the first one to have it in all the tracks I go, and now kyosho comes out with this mp777, I also have 2 Kanai2 one that I want to convert on a truggy and the other one as my second buggy, i dont really know what to do if lose money and sell all the cars and get the mp777 or just try to ugrade my K3 in a near future to a mp777, and what makes me really mad is that they just came out with this buggy to get their seventh champ with a buggy call like that 777, I dont really know what to do, so if someone already upgrade their k2 or k3 to a 777 let me know which are the diff or if someone knows, thanks. :mad:

[Little_Horn]

I think that if I was in your position, I would probably be angry too. I don't think that you should sell any of your buggies, at least for now. Upgrading from a k3 to a mp777 might not be a very good ideia, since almost the entire car is different. It would be like buying the entire car in pieces, and we all know that it would be much more expensive.
The k3 is an excellent car. I say, stay with it. Just because something new came out, it doesn't mean that your k3 is worse than the mp777. Right now, you are having what I call, the "sindrome of the latest stuff" ( :D :D :D ). Please don't be offended. You don't have to have the latest.
Keep racing with it, until it "gets old".
When you start to feel that you are being holded back by your k3, then buy another one.
By then, there will probably be a special 2, or a special 3, who knows? I really don't think that kyosho will settle with only one special edition.
If you buy the mp777, you'll be loosing money twice, because when another special comes out, you'll want it too. In that case, you'll buy another buggy or you'll upgrade it. Either way, you'll spend more money.
Be smart. Use and abuse you k3 to the maximum. When it is outdated, buy a mp777.

[KanaiDude]

Agreed, I have a k2 I am going to run for the next few months, i have alot of replacement parts and I don't think the k2 is a "losing" car at any standard, will still be competitive for the next few years. I'm going to wait it out a little let the price drop and buy the 2nd addition or something, just rebuilt my k2 last night she'll still spank most the rip rap at the local track...

[kanairacer69]

No guys dont get me wrong I love my ks my k2 i love it and i have so much money on that thing, like fioroni diff that i got at a really good price (I didnt pay the 185$ that cost on the rc stores) and everything you can think about, and my k3 dude thats is some car, that is my special k, dude lets be real here your car as long as you keep it with a good set-up and everything good on it you can race the way you want, I was just wondering if there was like a really important part to up from one car to the other one. and the best part men kyosho is Unbreakable, dude the other day I was out racing in my country (Venezuela) and I crashed my car in a jump and air filter jump from the carb, that was the only thing that happened to my car, but the other car that crased with me was a mugen mbx5, men poor guy, he had to change so much stuff from his front susp, that i felt bad and i almost gave him some money, so yeah guys im going to keep working with my ks, mi business asociate have a mp6 and he love it and men you have to see how that car handle on the track its crazy, I just got a K for him to put his mp6 away for his son or something and he havent even open the box of the k3, so anyway what i think is the best is that you can drive the car you fell more conf with and stay with it.

[KanaiDude]

So DG you busy putting that 777 together or what? Guys I got my ws72 and all new clutch components, WOW what a work of art, blue flywheel, kyosho bell, composite shoes and 1.1 springs, gonna do some series spanking this weekend!!!!!!

[dgrobe2112]

Got some parts ordered for it, i decided not to get the Special, i got the regular kit, and ordered some pretty shock towers for it from Kingheadz, he has the new 777 parts, not available yet, but he let me order them, he said i will be one of the few who have them, he also said, that if anything changes on the shock towers, or any parts, that he ships new shock towers to the purchasing customers, free of charge, hows that for customer service, also ordered a set of cradock brakes for it, and will be getting the titanium turnbuckles..

[dgrobe2112]

www.kingheadz.com is the website where i can get the parts. other that that, i really couldnt see any reason to spend an extra 265 bux for the special 1, i know the universals and all that, but ebay is cheap.. and can get all that stuff for nothing..

[KanaiDude]

Hey since I got your attention i asked a page back what gas you were running in your s72, they recomend 20 unless you want to add a shim and then you can run 30, I was thinking 20 is probably my best bet?

[OldskoolGT]

Little_Horn,

What kind of clutch and flywheel did your 777 come with?

Like Dgrobe, I am debating gettting the regular or SP1 version of the 777.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. i run 20%, mainly because you dont lose a whole lot of performance.. and you do gain life on the motor, the WS7II motor is shimmed for 25%, 30% will give you a little more performance, and run a little cooler, but you gotta add shims.. or 1 thin shim to be exact. Again, i think its a preference issue.. but me personally, i dont feel much slower.. i have thought about going to 30% but my buddy who runs 30, he allready on his 2nd motor, and its pretty wore out.. too.. and i am still on my first WS7II.. so.. either way is fine..

[dgrobe2112]

Oldschool, i have found alot of the differences, to be mainly preference..
the stuff you get in the special, i think are mainly bling..

like for instance.. blue motor mounts.. blue radio tray mounts, and wing spacers,

you get some harder chassis, well, my anodized chassis, is allready all scratched up.. looks just like the regular..

harder shock towers, well i upgrade those anyway

teflon coated shock bodies, 30 bux for the bodies.. that is something i am gonna get

turnbuckles.. big deal, i run the lunsford anyway

something else i would like to get is the ball bearing steering, which comes in the special...

universals.. those are nice.. but i been runnin dogbones in the center of my 7.5 for a long time.. never had unis in it.. no performance gain there.. and on ebay.. 30 bux if i had to have them..

LSD diff.. everyone goes with the regular diff anyway

lightweight diff gear.. thats not a bad idea.. 30 bux

different break discs.. well.. i am gonna start running cradock brakes anyway

What else.. i just dont see 265 bux worth of neccessary hopups.. for the regualr.. now.. there are some things.. that are good, and i will do to my regular version, and still be less than 685 special kit

Just my opinion..

[dgrobe2112]

ok.. here is the info on the website...

Hard alumite main chassis (not needed for performance)
The gear (LSD) it equips on the front (use the standard anyway)
Universal center shaft (nice to have, and i will prolly get them when they are on ebay)
High intensity F/R damper stay (using www.kingheadz.com shock towers anyay)
SP brake disk (using cradock brakes)
Adjustable tie rod (stainless or lunsford)
SP hard upper rod (F/R) (stainless or lunsford)
Adjustable S/T rod (stainless or lunsford)
SPL antenna holder II (not needed)
Teflon resin cutting damper piston (can get those at the hobby shop for cheap, and will do)
Lightweight spur gear (nice to have, prolly do it later)
Heat sink fin equipment high accuracy aluminum cutting alumite processing SP engine mount (not needed)
High accuracy aluminum cutting mechanic POS (aluminum radio tray post.. just bling)
High accuracy aluminum cutting wing stay (same as before.. just bling)
It is low the friction finishing damper case (special shock body, can get those on ebay for cheap)


Thats it.. i dont really see the need to spend the extra 265 bux

[dgrobe2112]

but thats just me..

[Lapster]

Hey guys, Im just starting to make the jump into Nitro. I'va had Nitro cars before, but never raced them. I have raced electric cars for years and I know how expensive it can be. I have a Mugen MST-1 and I have been looking into the MBX5 prospec and the regular. What would be the pro's and cons to the mp 777 over the MBX5. I would be getting an OS rg with an upgraded head that a friend machines. I've got some extra airtronics 94358 servos lying around and an extra JR Rs300 reciever. So I would be getting into this 8th scale business for around 800$ it looks like. What do you guys think??? And also, what pipe/header combo works well w/ an OS rg??

[Little_Horn]

OlddkoolGT, the flywheel is anodized blue, with three point aluminium clutch, with 1.0 springs.
I'm running 15% on a RB Sport.
I need to ask a few questions about tuning my engine. Today, I was tuning it. I feel I'm getting nice power, but this is my first engine. The weather is good, sunny, a little hot but not too much. The past few days were much hotter, but I didn't drive my buggy. I tried to push it a little. My "garage-yard" is not too big, but it's enough to open full throtle. I try to push to maximum for about a second, try to drive it a little hard, and then do a series of donuts, to push the engine to max., for about 2 or 3 seconds, in smooth concrete. I do this after a well warmed up engine. I try to stop right away and do the spit test. I put a little of spit, with my finger, on the top of the head. The spit only evaporates a little in the biggining, then starts to boil less, and eventualy it doesn't boil anymore. The rest of the spit stays in the head, in liquid state.
Also, when I stop from high revs to idle, the engine is slow then goes up a little.
I start to think: I'm to rich on the HSN, or I'm to lean on the LSN.
The fact is, if I richen the LSN, the car loses bottom power, if I lean the HSN, I'm afraid I'm pushing my engine too hard. I also think that I shouldn't lean the HSN more because on a track, I'll be pushing the engine harder, and it will heat a little more.
What do you guys think?

[Little_Horn]

something else i would like to get is the ball bearing steering, which comes in the special...
I'm not really sure what you mean :confused: , but I think you might be wrong.
The standard version has ball bearings in the wheels, ballbearings in the diffs, universals in front and ball bearing servo-saver.
The standard mp777 is so much better than the standard mp 7.5, that I have to tell that you're right about spending the extra bucks on a sp1. I have the standard also.

[dgrobe2112]

Lapster.. first of all.. its good you are lookin around.. i personally have heard lots of good stuff about the Mugen, however, i am not a big fan of PBS steering, they Mugen is very planted, turns great, however, they use bushings in all the arms to tighten up the suspension, and you spend like 5 bux to replace some bushings to redo the arms and stuff.. however.. you have to replace the bushings quite often, i also head the diffs are pretty tough to manage as well. They dont have motor plates on the motor.. meanin, every time you take the motor out, you gotta reshim the clutchbell.. kyosho however has plates.. that hold the motor in the same spot.. shim the motor one time.. and you can pull and put the motor back in, in no time at all..

The Kyosho has C-Hub suspension, the new 777 is lighter, shorter, and handles alot better, lot more steering than the 7.5. lower COG on everything, and the motor and diffs are moved more to the center, for better COG. ITs really a preferenc thing.. the mugen parts are a little cheaper than the kyosho, however, kyosho will be doing its own distribution in the US which will lower the cost of parts, alot..

[dgrobe2112]

I'm not really sure what you mean :confused: , but I think you might be wrong.
The standard version has ball bearings in the wheels, ballbearings in the diffs, universals in front and ball bearing servo-saver.
The standard mp777 is so much better than the standard mp 7.5, that I have to tell that you're right about spending the extra bucks on a sp1. I have the standard also.

Really, the bearings in the servo saver area?? sweet.. thats nice.. i am getting the standard.. i meant in the servo saver.. where the bushing were in the regular 7.5. i upgraded to K3 for the bearings..

I just think, that the regular kit, with just a little bit of money.. not 265 could be just as good if not better than the special.. get the rear universals.. which i will do.. and little things.. and this buggy is as good.. also.. spend the 265 you save on the special.. on this buggy, i think you get a lot better buggy.. just my opinion..


Lapster.. by the way.. you cant go wrong with a RG motor, cheap, plenty fast.. good torque.. easy to tune.. good luck in the hunt.. i think.. if you wanted.. do like i did.. get the kit form of the Kyosho 777, and get some hopups.. if you use the 800 bux, by a regular 777, (or a regular mugen) and with the extra money, you can get the motor, some nice hopups.. like shock towers, and chassis braces, and whatever else.. you got a great buggy..

[Little_Horn]

Please, can someone answer my post (the last one) on page 4, about engines? Thanks.

[OldskoolGT]

Little_Horn,

Thanks for the info.

The spit test is usually with the spit at the base of the head (around the glow plug) not the top. I think the best way to determine if the low end is too lean is to let the car idle. If your car can idle for a long time (1 minute or more), its probably too lean on bottom. The engine should start to load up a bit after idling for a short time.


Lapster,

The best thing about the 777 is that Kyosho makes it and you don't have to struggle with trying lots of weird setups since Kyosho has so much experience making fast buggies. IMHO, the 777 is now the top dog. When the X5 was being designed, the 7.5 was the standard they were trying to beat. Now the 777 is out, and they are behind the times again.

[dgrobe2112]

OlddkoolGT, the flywheel is anodized blue, with three point aluminium clutch, with 1.0 springs.
I'm running 15% on a RB Sport.
I need to ask a few questions about tuning my engine. Today, I was tuning it. I feel I'm getting nice power, but this is my first engine. The weather is good, sunny, a little hot but not too much. The past few days were much hotter, but I didn't drive my buggy. I tried to push it a little. My "garage-yard" is not too big, but it's enough to open full throtle. I try to push to maximum for about a second, try to drive it a little hard, and then do a series of donuts, to push the engine to max., for about 2 or 3 seconds, in smooth concrete. I do this after a well warmed up engine. I try to stop right away and do the spit test. I put a little of spit, with my finger, on the top of the head. The spit only evaporates a little in the biggining, then starts to boil less, and eventualy it doesn't boil anymore. The rest of the spit stays in the head, in liquid state.
Also, when I stop from high revs to idle, the engine is slow then goes up a little.
I start to think: I'm to rich on the HSN, or I'm to lean on the LSN.
The fact is, if I richen the LSN, the car loses bottom power, if I lean the HSN, I'm afraid I'm pushing my engine too hard. I also think that I shouldn't lean the HSN more because on a track, I'll be pushing the engine harder, and it will heat a little more.
What do you guys think?

Great question.. with all the info everyone needs.. ok.. your car is fine.. your not too hot.. so dont worry bout that.. sounds as though you may be a little fat on the top.. but right on the bottom.. the way to check.. with your car on your starter box.. gas the car hard.. to clear it out a couple times.. after that.. pinch the fuel line about 1 inch from the nipple on the carb.. if the car leans out and dies instantly.. then you are too lean.. you will have to fatten up the low end.. if it idles for more than 2 seconds.. before you notice anything.. then you are good.. if it is more than say.. 3-4 seconds.. you could be fat on the bottom.. but..just do the pinch test.. see how the bottom feels.

OK, next.. by you saying the car will idle up after you stop the car.. that tells me.. 2 things.. either lean on the bottom.. or.. fat on top.. with too high of an idle.. so..

1. info.. HSN can affect low end.. however, LSN does not affect high end. understand.. you could lean the top end.. for more top speed.. and at the same time.. you will lean the bottom end needle as well, however.. leaning the bottom end needle only affects the low end punch of the motor.. does not affect the top speed of the motor..

now.. my suggestion.. after doing the pinch test.. if you feel you got your low end set pretty good.. and it still tries to idle up after you stop.. you could lean the top byu 1 hour.. and lower you idle some.. see what im sayin.. your fat on the top.. and when you slow down.. the car seems to load up.. but then finally.. the idle sets in.. and idles up.. understand.. tough to explain.. if you want you can email me.. and i will give you my number.. and we can talk it over the phone..

hard to explain typing.. haha.. but i hope it helps.. if not.. i will try again.. if you still dont understand it..

[dgrobe2112]

Eric.. i ordered the standard 777.. not the special.. should be here next week sometime.. cant wait now.. :)

[Lapster]

Where are you guys getting your 777's? Did you get them from the Hong Kong store on ebay????

BTW, thanks for all the help. I would get the regular version, and buy the necessary hopups. I am only 15, and dont always have 1000$ to spend. My parents help me out sometimes though.

[dgrobe2112]

www.rc-mushroom.com has them for 420 for regular, and 685 for special 1 70 bux shipping for 3-5 day shipping

[Little_Horn]

dgrobe2112, I understood everything very well. In fact, I forgot all about the pinch test. I knew it but I wouldn't remember it. I'll do it. So you guys are saying that I should do the spit test in the bottom of the head, I mean, in the glow plug area? I accidently droped some spit in there and it also didn't evaporate totally (but it was a nice amount of spit... lol).
Anyways, I think the LSN is fine or very close to it. I'm just afraid to overtighten the HSN, that's all.
I knew all the implications that one needle has to the other. In fact, someone already told me that in another thread, in the nitro forum.
The only thing I thought is that the spit test should be done in the top of the head.
Please confirm that the test is made near the glow plug. Is it?

Thanks for everything. You guys are great!

[Little_Horn]

Little_Horn,

Thanks for the info.

Don't mention it. I love to help. :D

I think the best way to determine if the low end is too lean is to let the car idle. If your car can idle for a long time (1 minute or more), its probably too lean on bottom. The engine should start to load up a bit after idling for a short time.

I'm not too sure about this... I'm not sayind that you're wrong, but I did break in my engine, and the first tank was entirelly done on idle. The engine never stoped. Even with an incredible compression (RB are famous for hard first starts). I even had to unscrew my engine about 6 times during break in, so I could move the flywheel by hand. It wouldn't move even with the glow plug removed. What I mean is, even with a fat bottom, my engine would idle well, I think.


One thing I noticed. When the engine is still cool, if I press hard on the gas and let go, the engine dies (sometimes). Maybe the engine is drowning due to a fat high.

[OldskoolGT]

Well, the enigine might not necessarily be too lean on the bottom, but if you fatten up the bottom end, the engine will run at a lower temperature. The basic "race tune" is a slightly rich low end, which keeps the engine running cooler and may allow you to lean the top end a bit. I have found that when the low end is on the edge of being too lean, the engine's low end power will fade once the engine gets completely heated up.


Dgrobe,

I sent you a personal message.

[dgrobe2112]

Got it Eric.. and Little horn.. he is right.. a properly tuned engine will not sit there and idle all day.. what some people do in fact.. is compensate with a higher idle.. to keep the car running.. but alot of tuners will tell you that it will not sit there and idle all day.. if you ready your breakin procedures.. it says to turn the idle up..

I personally.. have never heard of spitting on the glow plug.. i spit on the head.. also.. Horn, if you were able to put your finger on the head for 3 seconds.. then your car is running considerably cool.. so.. you dont have to worry bout the motor being too hot.. when you want to worry is when you spit on the head.. and the water dances and sizzles.. like if you drop water into a frying pan.. you know.. but if it smokes.. and sorta slowly burns off.. your fine..

Also.. make sure to look for smoke.. if you got a good plume of smoke coming out of the pipe.. then you are good to go..

[dgrobe2112]

oh.. i sent you a reply eric.. Horn.. what is your name?? just wondering.. anyone else want to share their name on here..

My name is Daniel

[Little_Horn]

Mine is Bruno. No, I can´t put my finger in the head for 3 secs. In fact, I don't even wanna try it. Just touch it slighly to put the spit in it, and it feels hot already. I see lots of smoke, and lot's of it on high revs. I also see some minor fuel spiting from the pipe while on idle.
Remeber me, telling you that when the engine is still cool, if I go high on revs and then stop, the engine stops? Well, when I start it again, a piece of thick smoke come out. It even makes those smoke rings that many ppl do when they are smoking, you know? But that's just for a short while. I think that's the result of poorly burnt fuel.
This makes me believe that the HSN may be a little rich. What do you think?

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. i think a little rich on the top.. maybe even a little rich on the bottom too.. also.. so you know.. running too rich is just as hard on a motor as running too hot..

[Little_Horn]

I dont think I'm running »»»too««« rich on either side. :confused: The idle rev sound is a little high. The HSN may be a little rich. But when I start leaning the HSN a bit, the LSN will lean a little bit also.
I'm gonna see it tomorrow. :)

Thanks again for all the input guys. You really are awesome. :cool:

[OldskoolGT]

I always thought the spit (of the spit test) should go near the glow plug because that is the same place you use the temp gun. I think the temps at the top of the head are much cooler than at the base.

[Little_Horn]

I think that's preciselly becasause of that, that the sipt test is done in the top. Let me explain my point of view: In centigrade degrees, the water boils at 100ºC. The best temperature for a .21 1/8 TT engine is around 110-120ºC (please correct me if I'm wrong). If you do the test in the glow plug area, you'll notice a very fast boil, because the temps are higher than 100º, letting you believe your too hot.
If you do the test on the top, you'll get a more aproximate temperature.

If I'm wrong about the temps, please let me know. You can give the temps in ºF, and I do the conversion later.

[OldskoolGT]

My thinking is that the top of the head is quite far from the heat source, so the temperature on top is not necessarily reflecting what temp the engine is running at. I really don't use the spit test often though, so maybe its best you not listen to me regarding the spit test. LOL

The best way to check engine temps is to borrow your friends Exergen temp gun.

[dgrobe2112]

i kinda agree.. however.. if the spit on the head dont boil off rapidly.. and you got smoke.. then you shold be good.. i use the spit test just to see.. i cant afford an exergen gun.. and no one here has them.. so i use smoke.. and spit.. and go from there..

[Little_Horn]

Exactly my situation. But maybe in the future, just to be safe, I'll buy that "Venom" temp. thing, that you put arround the bottom of the head, and you just press a button and you get the temps, both in ºF and ºC. I think the price is arround $30.

[dgrobe2112]

well.. i dont know if i trust that either.. i mean.. i dont know.. i heard that the laser gun from raytec is off.. and all the other ones are off also.. i dont know.. i have seen them be off.. 30 degrees... from an exergen..but every exergen.. is the same as the next exergen.. so.. i dont know.. i try not to use temp as a guage.. i just use smoke.. feel.. and spit..

[Little_Horn]

I was talking about a temp. module from Venom Racing". It's very usefull and simple. You can even see the absoulte maximum temperature that the engine had in a run. And the price, is $24.99. For more details go to http://www.venom-racing.com/product/vtm/index.htm.

[dgrobe2112]

OK guys.. i got my 777 from www.rc-mushroom.com today.. Wednesday.. Paid thursday last week.. got it today.. fast shipping.. thats faster than some places i deal with here.. anyway..

I ordered the standard kit, i went through the box.. just to look at the parts and stuff.. to see everything.. and i am so glad i ordered the regular..

other than the shock towers.. being hardened.. the kit form is so nice..
has the ball bearing steering.. allready..
everything in the package looks nice..
has the blue shock bodies.. but the shock caps are the better ones.. and the black springs.. will put kanai medium springs on it..

While the chassis is not the hard anodized. it is milled in the same spots.. like under the motor.. and stuff.. just not the hard anodized.. i am very pleased.. and very happy.. i think the better value is in the regular kit..

[KanaiDude]

Sshhwwiinngg! I love the wheels was tempted to pick up a set of white ones on ebay for 18 dollar buy it now and 6 dollars shipping I didn't but sure was tempting.

Hey DG do you ever cut treads off your tires? I always run crime fighters and unless I am really on my brakeing game I suffer from traction roll once in a while. I have seen people snipping off the outside treads but have never tried and tested it, I am sure it must work, I saw a pic of saxton doing it on neobuggy, maybe i'll give it a shot and try plowing into turns a little harder to test it. Are you using the hardened brake disks? I am using the fioroni disks and I am not to impressed I think i'm going to put the stock ones back on, I am only using one for the front and rear, I am not a huge brake guy but I need to get better at it, the fioroni disks seem to suffer if you get any kind of fluid i.e. gas on them, cause there that fiber board type material.

[Little_Horn]

As you all probably already know :p, I also have the standard version. It has so much stuff compared to the standard mp 7.5, that it makes the difference from a regular to a special/kanai much smaller.
All the important stuff is in the mp777 standard. If you want something from the special, just buy it later and I'm sure you will never spend the difference between a special/kanai and a regular.

[dgrobe2112]

your right Horn.. the new standard kit.. is so far ahead of the 7.5 standard kit.. its weird.. but.. yeah.. everything in the standard kit is great.. and i see no need to upgrade anything.. other than the shock towers.. and the chassis braces.. thats it.. and it comes with the swaybars.. and all that.. its a great kit.. get some unis for the back.. and im done.. almost..

KD, yeah.. i have done that to a set of chameleons, and knuckles.. to get more laydown out of the rubber.. the crimefighers.. i heard some people were cutting them down on the outside.. to lose some sidebite.. for your exact reason.. traction rolling on a high bite track.. so.. yeah.. you could do that.. i never have.. but i am not a big fan of the crimefighters.. they are nice.. provide tons of traction.. just not through a complete main.. they fall off after bout 20 mins.. they usually last me around 1 night of racing..

[dgrobe2112]

ohh.. and about the brakes.. i am running cradock brakes.. they got them on ebay.. they dont fade in long mains.. actually.. they are better.. they are made of like a fiberglass.. or something.. not carbon.. but tey do make carbon ones.. you dont need the little pad behind the brake caliper.. and they dont get affected by water, fuel, or dirt on them.. i use brakes.. but i dial out alot of front brake.. i am prolly using 20/80 or more like 10/90 front/rear.. i got alot of rear brake.. for those hard tight turns.. just a hair of front brake if there is a turn right after a jump.. but i rarely have any front brake on my car..

[OldskoolGT]

So what length universal does the 777 use in the rear? Will any K2/K3 parts work there?

[Little_Horn]

I think so, considering that, only the location of the center diff was moved a little more to the front. So, I think k2/k3 parts should do. Only the center diff universals are different, I think.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. they should work.. i was putting it together yesterday.. and had a problem with the left rear.. the dogbone almost seemed too big or something.. cuz the suspension wouldnt go full droop.. cuz the dogbone was hitting inside the drive cup.. didnt do it on the right side.. just on the left side.. well.. i found out that i had to get some sand paper.. and sand off the dark color of the dogbone.. and it worked after that.. as if the dog bone was too thick or something.. well.. i am almost done with the buggy.. and i am very impressed with the whole thing.. other than Kyosho dont put everyting for a certain step in the book.. in the same back.. you gotta open up alot of different bags.. to do some things.. But.. its coming along great.. cant wait..

[Little_Horn]

No issues with me, about dogbones.
Just need some more spacers for the wheels, and some for the center diff (but the manual doen't say anything about spacers in the center diff. But I will get some to remove some of the play).

[dgrobe2112]

spacers? what kinda spacers.. like shims.. i dont think you need any shims in the center diff.. but i did have to shim the front and rear diffs.. but i ended up using some sand paper.. and sanding the dogbone.. down to the silver.. and it worked.. wierd.. oh well.. they will tide me over till i get some uni's. :)

[Little_Horn]

Yes, I ment shims (sorry for my bad english). The manual doesn't tell you 2, but better safe then sorrow.
Also, about the chassis braces. They are very good. The plastic tips give you good flexibilitty. But there's only one issue. Do you know, those metal things where the plastic tips are attached? ok. if you fall real hard, the plastic things might come out from the metal ones. The solution is simple. The top of the metal things can also take a screw in it. Put a strong shim and a screw, and that does it. The braces stay in place. No need to buy other braces. Do that with all the metal things.
Real simple, real effective, real cheap.

[dgrobe2112]

good idea.. but you also gotta have some shorter screws coming in from the bottom of the chassis.. cuz the screws i used.. stainless... came up a little higher.. i am planning on getting different chassis braces anyway..

[Little_Horn]

that is easy. Cut the screws. ;)

[dgrobe2112]

good point.. :)..

[uaerc]

spacers? what kinda spacers.. like shims.. i dont think you need any shims in the center diff.. but i did have to shim the front and rear diffs.. but i ended up using some sand paper.. and sanding the dogbone.. down to the silver.. and it worked.. wierd.. oh well.. they will tide me over till i get some uni's. :)

On my K3, I have put a shim on the centre Diff, I thought that it was not a good idea at first as it was not mentioned in the manual aswell, but once I saw another of the guy loose his diffs because there was too much play in the diff. I installed it, my team tech guys also said that its better to let it be there and avoid disasters while racing...

JM2Cents....

[dgrobe2112]

is your shim inside the diff.. or is it outside like on the front and rear?? odd.. that you would have to shim it inside or outside.. and you would use the motor to set the mesh of the gear...

[Little_Horn]

It can't be inside... It must be between the diff and those small, "rectangular" parts where the diff is in.
My center diff is a little loose. I think it is the least serious diff about loosiness...
If you have a loose rear/front diff, you will "kill" your gears, because the gear mesh is not right.
In the center, if the diff is a little loose, the mesh will allways be the same. The only thing is that the crown will "dance" on the pinion.
I like my gears like swiss clocks, tight and perfect.
I will buy some shims to get my center diff perfect, but then, this is just me.
I say, better safe than sorrow...

[offroadcrazy01]

I heard that the pro's don't like the 777 they like the kanai 2,3, and now they have loss the IFMAR with the 777 what do you guys think about it :mad: poor kyosho guess you can't win them all i wonder what changes they will make and how much it will cost me

[Little_Horn]

Man, kyosho got 4 cars on the final, Miguel Matias (he's from my country) could have won the title (bad luck. engine stopped). The car is new, setups are starting to come around.
Ppl were used to a certain car. A car with some years. Something new had to come. The 777 is fantastic. Better weight destribution, shorter chassis that results in better cornerring, excellent qualitty, cheapper. I don't now what we could want more!
You are over reacting...
See the standings for yourself. Kyosho got a very consistent run (2nd, 3rd, 4th and 7th). Three very close positions!!!
The pros just got to get used to the new car, just like everybody else.
As you said, kyosho can´t win them all. But i truelly believe in a brand that has won 6 world titles in a row. That's something to beat. Very hard to beat.
So, stop complainning. I can´t say we have the best car in the world because that is impossible to know, but I can say that we got one of the best in the world.
Man, I'm sorry to say this but, grow up. Just because kyosho didn't won doesn't mean it's a bad car. Doesn't mean we lost. It means only that we didn't win this year. It's impossible to win them all. We must left something for the others, right? ;)

[Little_Horn]

I have one question for those who think that way.
Do you buy a car just because the brand is a world champion?
Or, you buy a car because you know it's a good product, very reliable and competitive?
Mugen guys love their cars because they trust them. Mugen was not a champion in the past few years, but many ppl bought mugen, driven mugen, and eventually it won.
A car in orther to win, needs a driver! Think about it...

[KanaiDude]

DG i'm getting an itch help me scratch... What do you think of the new kit so far? any test runs yet? They have the standard on ebay for 475 with 25 bucks for shipping that a decent price? so what's the coolest part about the kit the shocks?

[windellmc]

From what I saw at the Kyosho race in St. Louis this summer the pros like the 777 a lot. It clearly handled better than the Kanai 3. Seems to carve around corners rather than sliding the rear end around them.

[Little_Horn]

Yes, the new mp777 corners much better.
I know that this was to DG, but I think that the coollest thing about this kit is that it brings so much more stuff than the standard mp 7.5, that it is near a special/kanai, and it's cheaper.
The shocks are good. But the special one shocks have more capacity, 1.4 pistons (instead of the standard 1.3), the interior is made with teflon and also have blue springs.
Don´t know if I should change them, but I think it's not necessary. But i'll buy the blue springs...

Anyone knows if any brand already has a pin kit (to replace those pesky e-clips) for the mp777? That should be the first option that a brand lunches for the mp777, but it wasn't... :(

[OldskoolGT]

I just got my 777 kit (also a standard kit). My favorite aspect of the kit is that it really shares quite a few parts with the old buggy, which is nice because I have a lot of 7.5 parts (an entire K2 kit!). Taken as a whole, the 777 is quite a different beast than the 7.5 though. The engine has been pushed up several mm and the chassis is shorter. The rear suspension geometry is all new with 4 mm longer shocks and longer A-arms. The front end seems similar to the old front end (the lower suspension arms are almost identical to the 7.5s), but with those new C-hubs and the bushing setup. I am really looking forward to driving my 777 once I put it together. LOL

[Little_Horn]

I hope you enjoy building it, at least, as much as I did. That is a hell of a kit. And tough to, to my hands, lol.
My hands and fingers were all messed up, but it was worth it.
In fact, I miss those days when I was building the kit.
I could unbuild and rebuild it again, but I'll have plenty of chances to do that (does the word "cleaning" ring a bell?).
For now, I'll just look to a beautifull and well built mp777.

My preciousssssss... :)

[dgrobe2112]

The car sofar.. has not had any track runs yet.. however.. i have got it started.. and running.. i drove it down the street to check the mesh on everything.. and everything is great.. the car.. turns on a dime.. with very little steering input needed.. i was amazed at that.. i will be taking it to the track tonight to see how it jumps.. and handles on the track.. will post info on that tomorrow.. i am very pleased with it.. alot of great parts on it.. ball bearing steering and all that.. i am very happy.. that price on ebay is a good price.. 10 bux more than i paid.. but well worth the money.. its almost like getting a kanai version.. the shock towers.. i wasnt impressed with.. but i wasnt impressed with the 7.5 shock towers either.. upgraded before i even started the car.. will get pics tonight.. got the body painted.. and ready to go.. cant wait..

[KanaiDude]

Shwwiinng, I guess I am going to hold out a little while, i'll just scratch the itch for now... I didn't take any pics of my new air compressor gizmo but OMG this thing is amazing, it's like putting your car through a mini carwash. I've been to Lowes and Homedepot and they both cary at least one kind, they start from 10 and go up to 20 dollars, you really have to have one of these, everything RC I own is now clean as a whistle, every tire looks almost new!

[dgrobe2112]

what is it called?? i went and saw something similar to it.. but not sure if thats actually it.. i really want to get one.. sounds like you allready got your moneys worth out of it.. lmao @ everything RC you own is clean as a whisle.. hhah

[KanaiDude]

It's called All RC clean as a whistle! No I don't know what it's called, it seems to be pretty popular now and almost all home improvement type stores cary them located where the compressor accesories are, nozzles etc.. Awesome job on tires, you can get a great read on how much tread is left, and also helps remove any dirt where the tires have become slightly unglued so you can fix them. I'm going to charge for a RC wash at the track this weekend! sike my compressor would blow in a few weekends...

[dgrobe2112]

haha.. is it some rubber hose or something attached to it? i will have to go to Home Depot tonight.. and see if i can find one.. the hose what.. sets in a bucket of water.. and the compressor kinda sucks it up or something..

[Little_Horn]

Today, I saw some new stuff for the mp777, and some of that stuff was in a prototype state. This parts were used in the World Championship.
I saw a front hub carrier, that had 3 holes in the top. The outer hole was the equivalent to the mp777, the midle one to the mp 7.5 and the inner one, a new hole. Many kyosho pilots used the middle and inner hole. This piece adds more stabillity. Some ppl were complaining about the lack of stabillity when going from a straight to a turn. The car was too nervous. The "problem" is solved.
I also saw a little plastic piece from the servo saver that connects to the rod (that connects to the servo). This plastic piece is a little soft. It tends to bend, and that can be bad, in more extreme situations. The piece is now reinforced, and because of that, very strong.
I also saw the upper suspension holder set in pure aluminium (no anodizing). This was a prototype, I'm sure.
Also saw some new (very) reinforced front lower arms. The LHS guy told me that he didn't know if kyosho was going to produce those. These were prototypes also. I think this one's should go to production, because the mp777 arms are more rigid (made from a harder plastic with carbon fragments, just like the mp777 differential housings). This can be bad, because it has less flexibility. In the European's, the driver from my country broke a lower arm because of this (the piece was not flexible enough to hold the impact). The new prototype pieces are reinforced in 2 key places, to add (much) more durability.

On a side note, I also saw the new Proline Badlands. Those things look like motocross tires. LOL

But I keep telling that we still need a shaft kit, to let go those damn e-clips...

[dgrobe2112]

wow.. where did you see them??

[Little_Horn]

At my LHS. The guy was in the World Championship, with one of the main kyosho drivers, Miguel Matias (from Portugal, my country). Miguel came out in second in the final, after a engine stop (because of it, he was 10th, but he came 2nd in the end). Great recovery! He's really good. He was also European champion las year (2003). Miguel was sponsored by Fioroni, in this WC. the upper suspension holder set in pure aluminium (no anodizing) is a Fioroni prototype. The rest is kyosho.
The fioroni stuff used by the pilots was not the black stuff that you could possibly have seen in other sites. It was blue.

[Little_Horn]

I see you're using blue springs. Did you change the pistons as well? If you didn't, you might wanna change it to 1.4, to match the special 1. I know that some guys make 1.5 pistons. I said make because there are no 1.5 pistons. You will have to make them yourself. I just don't know if they use them on the front or rear...
For example, if you look at kanai's setup sheet, he uses 1.5 rear and 1.4 front, 550 cps front and 500 cps rear, both with blue springs.

[dgrobe2112]

i drill my pistons.. with a drill.. they come out to 1.5, i run 60 oil in the front and 40 in the rear.. also.. it will be different.. cuz the blue shock bodies are not as big as the sp1 shock bodies.. and the white pistons will not fit in the blue shock bodies..

[windellmc]

The newer 777 kits have the caster blocks used at the Worlds. I don't know how you will be able to use the inner hole though. There aren't enough threads on the camber link. You could use the inner hole but would need a piece of threaded rod.

[dgrobe2112]

Allrighty.. first weekend of racing with the new 777. First of all.. the cradock brakes on this thing.. is amazing.. i cant beleive the stopping power.. that took some laps to get used to..

Well, i finished every race with the car, only problem i had all night.. is the car is so different in driving style than the 7.5. Everything you know about driving the 7.5, forget it.. this car turns so much.. i found myself turning into the pipe going in.. and then when i got the turn good going in.. i would get on the gas.. and boom.. right into the pipe.. took a while to figure it out.. the car jumps really nice.. and handles really well.. just gotta get used to it.. like driving a whole new buggy.. i feel i was slower with this car than my 7.5, but i had that 7.5 figured out..

Got some changes i will be doing.. i got 2 degree toe block in the rear.. gonna put on the 3
gonna move the lower shock mount position to the outer holes on all shocks.. gonna move the rear upper shock mount out 1 hole.. more side stability..
gonna raise front diff fluid to 5k from 3k..

Do you think i could use a LSD diff to combat some of this steering.. funny how before i was complaining about not enough steering.. now i got too much.. haha

[dgrobe2112]

yeah. windell.. i dont either.. cuz i got mine set for 2degree negative camber.. and they are all the way in.. there is hardly any more room for me to thread on there.. only think i can think of.. is if you are supposed to use the 7.5 upper arms and stuff..

[KanaiDude]

Progress reports sweet, I'll have to remember all of this in six months LoL. So you like the cradock brakes, just went on ebay and found them are you using 2 or 4? I am a little iffy about aftermarket brakes, I had the fiornoi disks and I think those are awful, these must be a totally different material. The brakes look a little thin you think they will wear out quickly?

[Little_Horn]

The newer 777 kits have the caster blocks used at the Worlds. I don't know how you will be able to use the inner hole though. There aren't enough threads on the camber link. You could use the inner hole but would need a piece of threaded rod.

I was the one that said that I saw one of those caster blocks (front hubs) used at the worlds. In fact, I had them in my hand. I don't remember if I said this but, you have to use new upper front arms to use the inner hole. The new arms are shorter.

[dgrobe2112]

Kdude.. the cradock brakes are the shiz.. and i love them.. it does take some time to get used to them though.. cuz i was hittin the brakes.. and doing stoppies.. haha.. littereally.. stoppin way early.. they are not any thinner than the stock brake pads.. same thickness.. and same diameter as well.. i aonly run 2 brakes.. 1 front and 1 rear.. they dont wear out.. almost 0 brake fade.. gas and oil on them dont matter either..

[windellmc]

Fioroni Ferrodo brake discs are awesome. Make sure you use the metal caliper with no pad. The Craddocks are very close in performance and much cheaper. They last a while. Once in a while you will need to take them out and clean them with sand paper or scotch brite (green) pad. They also use metal caliper only.

Horn - The newer kits have the hubs but they didn't give the new upper arms in the kit.

The LSD will probably give the car more steering exiting turns and possibly more entering.

[dgrobe2112]

thanks windell.. Fioroni ferrodo brake discs.. where are these at?? Can i see some??

so they are sending the new front hub in the new kits.. dang.. sux.. cuz i didnt get those.. wonder when they will sell them as spare parts..

[Little_Horn]

I really don't know if they already are (at least in my LHS, in Portugal). I think the LHS guy told me that he already has the new upper arms (but I'm not sure).
The new hubs make a big difference. Miguel Matias (he's from my country), 2nd in the worlds, used the center hole in the qualifs. and the inner hole on the final. He was damn fast!
After an engine stop, and because of that he became 10th, he started to climb, until he reached 2nd. I can only image if that engine didn't stop. Can you? ;)

[windellmc]

Try gsracing dot com for pictures of the Fioroni brakes. Biggest difference between the Fioroni and Craddocks is the Fioroni have a little more linear feel. Honestly though they cost about $12 per disc so I'll probably use Craddocks at half the price.

[dgrobe2112]

thanks wind.. i allready got cradock brakes.. jsut wasnt sure if the fioroni would be worth it or not..

[KyoshoKev]

hey guys, i was told the Design of the hub carrier on the 777 would be a good upgrade if you put in on your K3 (or k2 or normal 7.5's), it would assist in out of corner steering... is it worth getting the 777 hub carrier to replace the K3 hub carrier?

[dgrobe2112]

hmm.. never thought of that.. dont know if it will work or not.. i think you could put the front hubs on there.. not sure though

[OldskoolGT]

They will fit, however the turnbuckles will be too short. So you will need longer turnbuckles or longer ball ends to compensate. I am not really sure what kind of difference the new c-hubs will do for steering though.

[Little_Horn]

The c-hubs make a real difference. If you had/have a mp 7.5 and use the mp777, you will notice the difference for sure.
Personnaly, this is my first 1/8tt kit, and I didn't race it yet. Just a "couple" of small bashes. So, I may not notice it, but all the pros are using them with great results.

[windellmc]

Ofna guys were running the 777 hub carrier on the Hyper 7. They told me it gave more steering entry, middle, and exit.

[KanaiDude]

Personnaly, this is my first 1/8tt kit, and I didn't race it yet. Just a "couple" of small bashes.

You sure have strong opinions for someone who has never raced an 1/8scale :rolleyes: I think i'll stay off this thread for a while as I don't really want to hear your reply or care for that matter...

[dgrobe2112]

WOW!!!.. he is just posting his experiences.. i welcome all ideas and opinions.. I think the 777 hubs will work on the 7.5, now the perfomance gain or loss.. i dont know.. but keep posting Kdude..

[KanaiDude]

Just tired of him out-doing everyone on every post of his read back a little, he always knows better or sarcasticly puts someone down, I don't have time for that type of immaturity on a thread about toy cars... off to the races... good luck with your 777 DG and thanks for all the help, see ya on the flip side!!

[dgrobe2112]

i gotcha.. thaks for the props on the 777, its definitly a learning experience.. yall racin tonight? must be nice.. sure wish i was racin tonight.. Jus wondering.. do you happen to know the length of your K3 shock bodies? front and rear.. i think your fronts are what.. 47 right?? wondering bout the rear.. If they are 61, im happy.. hahah.. let me know if you get a chance to measure..

thanks

[Little_Horn]

Just tired of him out-doing everyone on every post of his read back a little, he always knows better or sarcasticly puts someone down, I don't have time for that type of immaturity on a thread about toy cars... off to the races... good luck with your 777 DG and thanks for all the help, see ya on the flip side!!

Well, I'm trying to do my best here. I'm really happy with my mp777, and I try to show it to everyone, because I think everyone should be as happy as I am, playing/racing with his buggy. I never was sarcastic. If I looked like I was, I apologize for that. That was not my intention. My mother language is not english. Maybe it's because of that...
I was honnest enough to say that I don't have much experience.
But one thing I can tell, the experiences that I talk (tell) about, are mine or are the ones from a top 10 driver (in my country) and from the vice-champion of the world (also from my country), and both use a mp777.
Looks like that the immature one is you, because you have problems in accepting others oppinions.
I never said to anyone that I was absolute right, just like I don't take that everything that the others say is right.
If you can't accept my oppinion, that's your problem, not mine.
I do my best to help everyone!
I'm the first to answer to many post because I have time to do it (ok, maybe tooooo much time, lol) and I love helping someone out, just like I love when someone helps me.

I just can't stop thinking that if I hadn't been honnest (saying that I have little experience), you wouldn't have said that...

[windellmc]

DG - Tower is showing new part numbers for the 777 rear shock bodies. That makes me think they are different than the K3.

[dgrobe2112]

Dont worry bout that Horn, just like you.. i take others opinions.. and beleive what i want.. or listen or not. So, you keep pluggin away with your stories.. and (as darrell waltrip would say) "sperience" You dont have to apologize, Kdude is a good racer, he has been around for a while, so dont be mad at him either, maybe he was just having a bad day.. who knows.. I am a racer, by no means a pro, i always got questions, and try to answer any questions i may know.. if i dont know them.. i go and surf and try to find the answer. So Kdude.. back to your corner, Horn, back to your corner.. this match is over.. haha.. its a draw..

Windell, your right.. the rears are different, however.. the fronts are the same as the K3. i beleive the lengths are 47mm front and and 61mm rear.

So the fronts are the same for the K3, i think the rear K3 rear shock bodies are 4mm shorter than the 777 rear shock bodies...

[KanaiDude]

I just can't stop thinking that if I hadn't been honnest (saying that I have little experience), you wouldn't have said that...

Your right I wouldn't have said that, I was just suprised to read it, as all of your posts are very opinionated as if you have been racing 1/8 scale for 10 years. I am glad you have a real pro to consult with, but that doesn't mean you have real driving experience just because you talk to him. Maybe I was having a bad day and I didn't need to take it as far as I did, and I apologize for that I should have kept my mouth shut... enough said...

[Little_Horn]

No problem. ;)

[Lapster]

Hey guys... I'm officially part of the club! I got mine off of ebay with an OS RG. An RG is all I need for my track... a P5 may come later. ;) But I got it for 400$ both items NIB. So what do I need to think about when building? And does the kit include diff fluids? If not (or so)... what would you reccomend??

[dgrobe2112]

The Kit does not come with any diff fluids. I assume you got the regular version, i found i had to use the droop screws, cuz the left rear dogbone was binding. I also suggest getting some shock oils, i see some guys running 50/30, i am running 60/40,

Copy book setup.. for arms and shock locations, go with -2 camber all around, i went with 60/40 shock oils, drilled the pistons to 1.4 use blue springs,

Diffs, make sure you shim them correctly.. the book shows you how to do it.. i had 3/7/1 diff, front, center, rear.. and had so much steering.. i am gonna try 5/7/1, i will get back after this weekend to post what my car did..

But i am sitting at the current setup..

If you are lookin for hopups.. go to www.kingheadz.com, they have all the hopups for it allready, shock towers, braces, toe plates.. squat plates.. everything..

[Lapster]

Cool, what fluids would you reccomend to start with??? I did get the standard.

[dgrobe2112]

sorry.. hit the reply button too fast.. so.. read the previos post..

[Lapster]

What are the shock pistons at right now? 1.3?? am in the process of moving, and I am in an apartment right now 2 hrs away from my house and my drill bits and such. I bought 40, 45, 50, and 60. I have 35, 30, 20, 27.5, and 25. So no shortage there. I ordered my diff fliuds last night. I got 3,5,1. Thats what a friend reccomended for our track, he races a kanai 2. I'll just try box stock on the shock oil and see what I can do. And thanks for the tip on the camber, I will try that.

And I dont think I will be getting any hopups for a few months, my parents were nice enough to let me get this...(they helped pay for it)... so I dont want to go bugging them about new shock towers and all that good stuff. Al of that will come on October 26.

But thanks a lot for the help.

[windellmc]

If you have too much entry steering or the car gets loose when landing jumps try running the H position for the upper front arm instead of the L position. Also try going to the inner hole on the rear shock bottom. That will give you downtravel and soften the rear a little. Makes it more consistent on rough tracks.

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. the stock pistons with the kit are 1.3, so if you want.. go with 50/30 on the oils and see how that works.

[Lapster]

Well, the track I am running on just opened up... we actually just got done building. I have run my truck on this track a lot in the last few weeks, and it seems like I should use some limiters. Do they even do that in 1/8 scales??? The track is very rough, I think I will just have to see what works. I just got a reply, and he just sent it out. So 5 business days! Thanks for all of your guys help.

[dgrobe2112]

If the track is really rough.. and rutted.. then this car is perfect.. the long travel suspension is great in the rough stuff.. as far as limiters.. i dont think you will need them.. the long suspension travel is good for when the car gets kicked by some ruts.. the suspension will travel that much further down.. to keep a wheel in contact.. so.. dont try any limiters yet.. then if you feel you need them.. then go ahead.. but i think i heard some people using limiters only on really smooth tracks..

[Lapster]

Im just going to try what you guys have told me. Does this have the travel of a K3???

[dgrobe2112]

has more travel in the rear than the k3

[OldskoolGT]

The 777 has more overall travel in the rear than the K3. But the K3 actually has more droop. The 777 has more up travel.

On a buggy, you don't need to use limiters in the shocks because you can use the droop screws to limit the suspension travel.

[Lapster]

Quite a good point...

[dgrobe2112]

But Eric.. to limit the uptravel.. the droop screws dont help.. so you would need limiters outside the shock bodies...

I had my 777 out for the 2nd race weekend.. and i must say.. this thing is just getting better and better.. the changes i made.. were taking away the 7.5 setup.. then going to the setup that the book shows.. and it made all the difference.. my car is at the same setup as the book.. the car turns great still.. goes into the turns so smooth.. and on power.. still a little twitchy.. but that may be my throttle finger.. it got better as the night went on..

so my current setup is what the book says..
Diffs 5/7/1
shocks.. spaced just above level in front.. and level in rear.. blue springs.. 60 in front.. 40 in rear.. 1.5mm pistons..

Car is golden.. little tweaks here and there.. to help in the rough stuff...

The track got rutten more and more.. and that was hurting my car in the high speed corners.. cuz the car would catch a rut and want to roll over.. the X5 was a little more planted than my car in the high speed sweeper.. but as the night went on.. i was figuring out.. that i could actually drive harder into the turns.. car made up so much time in the tight sections.. once i got out front.. there was no catching me.. it was easy to pull out a gap..

I qualified 2nd.. behind a very good driver.. with an X5.. we were the only 2 to get 11 laps on the track.. track got heavy and slower as the night went on.. had good hopes for the main.. only to have a battery fail on me.. wasnt dead.. one of the ends of the pack came off.. so that ended my main.. while running 2nd place..

All in all.. after the first weekend.. i was kinda disappointed in the car.. but i took some advice.. dont use an old setup.. from the 7.5.. wont work.. go back to the book setup.. and work from there.. golden.. car is great... cant wait to run it again..

[windellmc]

If you want to take away some twitchiness use the H block in front. You might also try some stiffer front springs.

Current setup
Front
LSD with 75w90 Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube
60 wt. Associated oil with stock Special 1 pistons and blue springs
Shock mounted in outer hole on supension arm. bottom row one out from inside on tower.
Ackerman set to rear most hole. Going further forward should make it less twitchy.
B block and H block. -1 degree camber

Center
7k oil

Rear
1k oil
40 wt. Assoc. oil with stock Special 1 pistons and blue springs
Shock mounted in inside hole on suspension arm. Bottom row one out from inside on tower.
2 degree anti squat
3 degree toe in
-1 degree camber
Ccamber link mounted bottom inside on tower and outside on hub.
Hub mounted in lower hinge pin hole.

[Lapster]

Hey, I was watching some of the 1/8 buggies yesterday at the race, and I noticed some of them were traction rolling. If I have that problem, should I not run a sway bar? I dont want to trim the outer row of tread off of my tires because there are some smooth sections of the track where I would need them. The cars are rolling when they hit ruts. What should I do?

[windellmc]

You will have to trim the tires or try a different tire. What tire is it? Crimefighters and Komodos don't lose any sidebite from trimming the outer row off. Sometimes a softer compound of tire won't traction roll as bad either.

[Lapster]

They are M2 Crimefighters. Is the XTR compound harder or softer??

[Shakedown]

Do the K3 rear(or front) universals fit on the 777?

[colinradford]

They are M2 Crimefighters. Is the XTR compound harder or softer??

XTR is harder than M2.

[dgrobe2112]

i think they should.. the 777 buggy is supposed to be not as wide as the K3.. so they could fit.. i havent measured them.

[windellmc]

777, K2, and K3 all use the same front and rear universals. The centers are different between 7.5 and 777.

[Lapster]

Does the 777 accept a 5 cell hump pack???

[Mika]

Hi, I'm new to this thread.. I raced GS this season but sold it finally. Not a bad car but wasn't totally happy with it neither. Mp75 sells $350 at the moment so I got one from Tower -- never raced one. I also opted Racer's Edge's tuning parts and Fioroni chassis plus some engine parts like the slide clutch. For the engine I opted RB WS7II.

Now I've began wondering (of course) was it a wise move you know since Mp777 is now out there for the next season. Now I ask you since many of you have propably raced them both is 75 still gonna be competetive for the 2005 or should return it when it arrives and get the 777 instead?

The good thing about 75 is that there's a lot of tuning parts from various companies like racer's edge and it's relevantly easy to get replacement parts for less cost now (but how long). There's also a pile of information about it how to dial it in for the local track etc.

Any input appreciated!
Happy racing,

Mika

[Little_Horn]

Does the 777 accept a 5 cell hump pack???

Yes it does. I made a pack from 5 2300 NiMH AA rechargeable cells, and it fits fine.

[Little_Horn]

Hi, I'm new to this thread.. I raced GS this season but sold it finally. Not a bad car but wasn't totally happy with it neither. Mp75 sells $350 at the moment so I got one from Tower -- never raced one. I also opted Racer's Edge's tuning parts and Fioroni chassis plus some engine parts like the slide clutch. For the engine I opted RB WS7II.

Now I've began wondering (of course) was it a wise move you know since Mp777 is now out there for the next season. Now I ask you since many of you have propably raced them both is 75 still gonna be competetive for the 2005 or should return it when it arrives and get the 777 instead?

The good thing about 75 is that there's a lot of tuning parts from various companies like racer's edge and it's relevantly easy to get replacement parts for less cost now (but how long). There's also a pile of information about it how to dial it in for the local track etc.

Any input appreciated!
Happy racing,

Mika

Well, I didn't own a 7.5 (I own a 777) but I'm going to answer anyway, because I feel I should.
If you have a chance to return the 7.5 (and that fiororni stuff you also bought), then do it.
The 7.5 would still be very competitive, but soon (if not already) will become obsolete, compared to the 777. All the 7.5 owners forgive me, but this is the true. The 777 is a new car. Kyosho always makes new cars to be better then the previous ones. No one would make a new car worse than a previous one. There are alredy some very good setups for the 777 and options are starting to show up.
Don't get me wrong, the 7.5 is still a great buggy, but if you are buying something new, you should buy the most recent thing. If you dont, you risk to loose the value of your investment much sooner.
Probably, you will want to "upgrade" for a 777 in the next season.
Instead of loosing money, why don't you buy the 777 right now?
If you live in U.S.A., you just need to ask in here, where everybody is buing their kits from. You will pay a little more then $350, but it's worth the price.
Besides, the standard mp777 has so much more stuff compared to the standard mp 7.5 (if you wanna know what stuff, ask in here, since I don't own a 7.5 and don't know every difference between the 2). The mp777 is a much more value for your money, because all of this.
I hope I'm making sense...

[KanaiDude]

Mike, I would think about returning it, RCaction has there review of the 777 so you can get a closer look, I am pretty intrigued by the new radio tray design, steering bellcrank, angle of the arms, and amount of travel in the suspension. I will probably run my K2 for the rest of the year, but after that I will be moving on to the 777, I've been racing my 7.5 (converted to k2) for about a year and a half now. Now on another note the 7.5 is still vary competitive and if it's a money issue the 7.5 is still not a bad choice at all.

[dgrobe2112]

Any car can be competative given the right driver, i could run my 7.5 just as fast as my 777, however, i couldnt get any faster with it.. i tried all kinds of stuff.. couldnt get it right.. i then sold it.. and bought the 777, right off the bad, i am just as fast.. and can be faster.. there are more tuning options on the 777 to adjust and the standard kit, is way better than the 7.5 standard kit. If you want hopup parts.. www.kingheads.com has all of them allready.. shock towers.. and everything. If i were you, i would return the 7.5, and get the 777. I bought mine from www.rc-mushroom.com. Shipping was a little high.. but the price shipped was still cheaper than the price on the 777 on towers website. cost was 490 shipped. You can get the 777 on ebay as well. some of them guys got good prices also. Then, you can get kingheads hopups for it, and he is a very good guy, if they upgrade any part.. any part.. that you own.. he will ship you the new part, free. so if they come out with a new shock tower.. and since i allready got shock towers.. i will get the new one free.

The 777 takes off where the 7.5 left off.. the 7.5 is a great buggy, and i loved mine.. but i love the 777 that much more.. you allready spend alot of money on your 7.5. If you were to put it together and try to sell it brand new.. you wouldnt get your money out of it.. not even close.. trust me on that..

[Mika]

Thanks guys for your great input! I should have asked you before going for it in the first place. Well, I have to think this one over again. Anyone who would actually stick with the MP75 ? Cheers,
Mika

[dgrobe2112]

at first i thought i made a mistake.. but, after finding the setup.. the 777 is so much better, the 7.5 is very good buggy, especially for your first one.. also, lots of aftermarket parts for it, and everything like that. So, the 7.5 is a great buggy. you will be happy with it, i assure you of that. However, i am the type who wants to have the latest and greatest.. so i sold my fully hopped up 7.5, and got the 777

[windellmc]

If it is a money issue just wait a couple of weeks and you should be able to get new Kanai 3s for $500. Otherwise get the 777. It's faster.

[dgrobe2112]

Windell.. you on sgrid too??

[Mika]

at first i thought i made a mistake.. but, after finding the setup.. the 777 is so much better, the 7.5 is very good buggy, especially for your first one.. also, lots of aftermarket parts for it, and everything like that. So, the 7.5 is a great buggy. you will be happy with it, i assure you of that. However, i am the type who wants to have the latest and greatest.. so i sold my fully hopped up 7.5, and got the 777

For me getting the latest and greatest is not so big deal .. and that's just what the vendors want you to do .. always upgrade to the newest version (and them get the money) is it worth or not. Maybe I'll settle with the MP75 and get all the nice hop-ups with same money of 777 (SP1). 777 feels great now, but I'm sure as soon as every kid on the block has one it does not feel like one anymore and there goes the money for all the nice hop-ups again to make it just a bit different...

I really like the Fioroni ja Racers Edge stuff so I'll get those and will likely run the "old" model for the money -- as you say it's still pretty competetive in 2005. With these hop-ups 75 should take beating; remember the speed does not come from the car itself but the engine (RB WS7II). I'm not a top driver anyway (I raced GS PRO this season but let it go by now).

Buggies are so far in their evolving that I don't think the changes will be so big deal except from the marketing point of view, right..??

[Little_Horn]

The final decision is yours, but IMO, you're making a mistake.
This is not a matter of having the latest, but having the best value for your money.
Compared with the 7.5, the 777 is a much better value for the money.
You can say that the 777 is half way between a standard version and a kanai/special1 (compared to the 7.5 standard). So, you already have some hop-ups in it (like the ball bearing servo saver, front and rear stabilizer bars, new diffs (diff boxes made of plastic with fragmented carbon, just like k3), center diff and engine position more to the front (middle of chassis), lower radio tray, 4mm shorter chassis, bigger shocks with 4mm shafts, etc...)
I'm not going to compare the GS with the 7.5, but just as you wanted to have a better buggy from last season to this one, eventually you will also want to have a better buggy for the next season, or the season after.
You will want a better buggy, no matter when or why.
In that time, you will ask yourself: Why didn't I take the 777 right from the start and saved a lot of money?
Don't get me wrong, I just think this is the wisest thing to do.

[dgrobe2112]

well.. the 7.5 will definitly feel better than the GS buggy.. and the 7.5 is not a bad buggy at all.. at first.. i felt the 7.5 was better.. but that was because the 777 was new.. and i didnt have the setup on it.. now i got a good setup.. and this thing is so much faster.. compared laptimes to my old lap times.. and even when i was off.. setup was off.. i was still as fast as my 7.5. now faster.. even been told that.. but if you are lookin for a good buggy.. the 7.5 is definitly a good choice..

but the changes on the 777.. is alot.. when you actually see it.. lower COG everything.. updated front and rear suspension.. updated steering.. geometry.. get the kanai (special 1) steering, this new 777 is definitly different than the 7.5. Alot of people been saying that its too twitchy.. feels like a mugen.. but Kyosho used to be a car that you could just take out and run and be fast with it.. the new 777 is fast.. but you can be faster with it.. lot of people say the mugen.. you gotta be on top of the car all the time.. and i feel with the 777.. you gotta be more on your toes.. but the car is definitly more planted.. and feels differet.. just took me a little time to get used to it.. like driving a new buggy.. basically..

[Mika]

OK, thanks guys for good answers. I'll have to think about it. Well, maybe enough of this for now anyway; I'll let you discuss the real issues with 777. Thanks!

[windellmc]

Yeah I'm on Sgrid.

I never had a 7.5. I've driven a few but never for an extended length of time. I always felt like they turned in well when properly set up but tend to push out of corners. The 777 doesn't do that and probably turns in harder too. Until I drove the 777 I was always looking for the "perfect" car. The Mugen was good, but I never felt like I had a perfect car until the 777. I've been racing for a long time and never driven a car in any off-road class like the 777. It's the best I've ever seen.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. your right windell.. my 7.5 always seemed to push coming out of the turns.. could never get it turn coming out.. unless the track was dusty, or slick.. i put 2 degree toe plate on the rear.. and got the rear to slide around the turns.. but that was it.. this 777, is alot more agressive.. and turns so much better.. its awesome car just as you stated..

[Lapster]

Hey, I am finally done! One question though. Does your guys drive train make any noise when you roll it? Mine makes a dinging sound. Is that normal???

[Marky]

Just out of curiousity, what shock oils you guys running ?? And how much pre-load ?

[dgrobe2112]

i run 60/40 oil front to rear.. and space the front so the bones are just above level, and the rear is level.

Lapster, check your gear mesh, on your motor, also make sure your diffs are shimmed correctly. i had a problem in the rear, actually left rear, the diff made noise.. but it didnt when the car was rolling.. only on full extension..

Also, with the car being new.. some gears will need to be worked in..

[Lapster]

Yep, the gears just needed to be worn in. I have done 4 tanks and it is so smooth now. I'm not used t the metal gears that you nitro guys use! This car is awesome..

The first time I out the ca on the ground and barely touched the throttle, the car actually moved when it was running about 125*, as it warmed up to about 170* is felt like my T4. I can't believe I didnt get a 1/8 sooner!

[Lapster]

Wow, I was at the track today, and this is one awesome car. Turns and jumps awesome!!! I only have one problem... and it doesnt relate to the 777 at all, but I figure you guys can help me out. I only get about 4-5 minutes between fill ups. The engine is running at about 230*... it seems fine. What to do?

[Mika]

yeah.. your right windell.. my 7.5 always seemed to push coming out of the turns.. could never get it turn coming out.. unless the track was dusty, or slick.. i put 2 degree toe plate on the rear.. and got the rear to slide around the turns.. but that was it.. this 777, is alot more agressive.. and turns so much better.. its awesome car just as you stated..


Sometimes the car would turn normally, and other times the LSD would lock up in the center and create more of a push. Lots of team drivers were removing the center LSD because of this reason, and this addition, or rather removal, should create a more consistent feel in the corners.


This is what they say about K2 in K3 review.
You had K2, right? Are you sure it's just not the two-lsd-diff setup causing this push..not the car itself.

[Shakedown]

I'm currently shopping for a steering servo for 1/8 buggy.

What's the minimum torque requirement for one of these and what is fast enough?


Interested in these right now:

Hitec HS 5925 & 5945
KO Propo 2344, 2343, 2174, 2173
Futaba 9350, 9451

Are these good choices for 1/8 buggy competition?

[dgrobe2112]

This is what they say about K2 in K3 review.
You had K2, right? Are you sure it's just not the two-lsd-diff setup causing this push..not the car itself.


My 7.5 didnt have 2 LSD diffs.. had 1.. changed to the standard.. rand all 3 standard diffs.. the LSD never worked right.. seemed to inconsistant.. so i never really used it..

[dgrobe2112]

Wow, I was at the track today, and this is one awesome car. Turns and jumps awesome!!! I only have one problem... and it doesnt relate to the 777 at all, but I figure you guys can help me out. I only get about 4-5 minutes between fill ups. The engine is running at about 230*... it seems fine. What to do?

230, on what temp guage.. i seen guages be off as much as 40 degrees.. so.. if your not using an exergen temp probe, i dont think you will get an accurate reading.. i seen raytec guns be off 30, i seen those small $35 temp guns be off 40 degrees.. the local hobby shop owner has one that you can turn the laser on and off.. and it was off 40 degrees.. too high.. so.. if your temp gun is off say 20 degrees.. high.. your only at 210, and that is too fat.. should run around 240, and when you run out of gas.. be prolly 250. tune to perfomance.. not sure what motor your running.. but at 230, you can still lean it some..

[dgrobe2112]

I'm currently shopping for a steering servo for 1/8 buggy.

What's the minimum torque requirement for one of these and what is fast enough?


Interested in these right now:

Hitec HS 5925 & 5945
KO Propo 2344, 2343, 2174, 2173
Futaba 9350, 9451

Are these good choices for 1/8 buggy competition?

Personally, hitec digital servos.. im not a big fan of, on nitro cars.. i ran them on my electric cars.. but on nitro.. all the vibrating.. every one of my hitec digital servos messed up on me..

I think Kanai runs the 9350 futaba servo.. if im not mistaken, and i run the Airtronics 94357 servo on my steering. It has .07 speed, and 125oz torque. alot of other drivers use that as well.. i think anything over 100oz will be fine.

Speed of the servo is personal preference, i had the 358 servo in steering, has .10 speed and 200oz torque.. but it was considerably slower than the 357, so i put the 357 back in..

[Mika]

My 7.5 didnt have 2 LSD diffs.. had 1.. changed to the standard.. rand all 3 standard diffs.. the LSD never worked right.. seemed to inconsistant.. so i never really used it..
OK, good to know anyway. Thanks.

[uaerc]

I'm currently shopping for a steering servo for 1/8 buggy.

What's the minimum torque requirement for one of these and what is fast enough?


Interested in these right now:

Hitec HS 5925 & 5945
KO Propo 2344, 2343, 2174, 2173
Futaba 9350, 9451

Are these good choices for 1/8 buggy competition?


Hi......

I am using Jr's DS8425mg .19secs/DS8411 .11secs for the steering
and a DS811 on the throttle its just right..........

Futaba would be my next choice... Guy here in my country dont trust Hitec.....always have let ppl down.......

JM2b

Zooz.....

Ps.. anyone heard of a 777-8 coming next ?

[Lapster]

230, on what temp guage.. i seen guages be off as much as 40 degrees.. so.. if your not using an exergen temp probe, i dont think you will get an accurate reading.. i seen raytec guns be off 30, i seen those small $35 temp guns be off 40 degrees.. the local hobby shop owner has one that you can turn the laser on and off.. and it was off 40 degrees.. too high.. so.. if your temp gun is off say 20 degrees.. high.. your only at 210, and that is too fat.. should run around 240, and when you run out of gas.. be prolly 250. tune to perfomance.. not sure what motor your running.. but at 230, you can still lean it some..

I am running an OS rg-x. I just got back from the race and it ran pretty good. We dont have transponders, so we run 15 laps, and first done wins. Lap times are around 20 seconds. I won the first race by about a lap, with a pit in the middle. My pipe came loose the second race, and I didnt finish. And I won the 3rd race by about 15 feet. Overall I am very pleased with the car. I switched to 7000wt in the center, and I put the shocks on the inner hole on the arm on the rear. I also took the rear swaybar off.

I am using a Raytec gun right now. After my first race, I could run the whole race without a pit. I think it might have been that the engine was so new, and I switched to an OS #5 plug. The cars I raced against were a Hyper 7 w/ a hyper .21 8 port, and 2 mugen MBX5's with P5's. I am so happy the car actually works.

[KanaiDude]

OK bad run at the track this weekend, that damn ws72 is blowing up my whole buggy! LOL just kidding but really, I blew my center diff, the pins got wedged sideways in the case, so I fixed that and ran 2 good qualifiers to set myself up for 5th seed in the main. Well 1:30 mins into the main I broke a front bottom a-arm in half, I replaced it the night before. I was talking to the winner and once sponsored driver and he said he used to break arms when he tapped someone, then he was told by another factory guy to boil his arms in water for 2 minutes before using them because they cool down to quickly at the factory and can cause some inconsistencies, have you ever heard of this before? I am almost tempted to switch to fioroni ergal arms, anyone ever tried these?

[dgrobe2112]

well.. at 20 seconds a lap.. and 15 laps.. that comes out to around 5 minutes a race.. now.. also.. that means no mistakes at 20 seconds a lap. so if you run longer than 20 seconds a lap.. then you will run longer than 5 minutes.. also.. yes.. the motor still being new.. could ahve something to do with it. but running at 220, is fat.. I know for a fact.. the RG runs its best at 250.. so.. that could have something to do with it.. and its a gas hog..

[dgrobe2112]

OK bad run at the track this weekend, that damn ws72 is blowing up my whole buggy! LOL just kidding but really, I blew my center diff, the pins got wedged sideways in the case, so I fixed that and ran 2 good qualifiers to set myself up for 5th seed in the main. Well 1:30 mins into the main I broke a front bottom a-arm in half, I replaced it the night before. I was talking to the winner and once sponsored driver and he said he used to break arms when he tapped someone, then he was told by another factory guy to boil his arms in water for 2 minutes before using them because they cool down to quickly at the factory and can cause some inconsistencies, have you ever heard of this before? I am almost tempted to switch to fioroni ergal arms, anyone ever tried these?

Yeah.. i heard the WS7II's break tons of arms.. hahah.. just messin.. the ergal arms.. they are aluminum right?? well... personally.. i dont like aluminum arms on offroad cuz they bend, also.. the arms on the K3, are made out of a new material.. more carbon and all that.. so.. they may not flex as much as the previous arms. only time i broke an arm, was when i took a jump.. with a fence as a back wall.. and got the right front ripped off cuz the wheel got caught in the chain link..

I have heard of boiling them.. basically makes them more flexible.. heard of people doing that to their wing.. so it dont break that easy

[dgrobe2112]

Now.. i took the MP777 out for the 2nd time on the local track.. first time with the new setup.. and i tell you what.. lap times are consistant now.. and faster than the previous weekend.. had a pit problem in the main.. which the pit man over filled me.. and flooded the motor.. killed it.. and was hard to start after that.. but finally got it started.. and i drove the car hard.. i mean hard.. instead of double double.. i was triple single.. car did everything great.. seemed the harder i drove it.. the better it got.. now.. if i can work on my consistancy.. but the car is golden.. really planted.. ran great.. took everything i could throw at it.. definitly better than the 7.5

[Mika]

racers here boil arms; last better

[KanaiDude]

I'll fire up the boiling pot! I also noticed that the arms I got were k3 arms which I don't think I have used before, so I just bought a pair of standard 7.5 arms and that should do it with boiling them. Oh the frustration I would have finished top 3 if I could have, motor is still smoking been running it right at 250, I have to wait a month to race!!!

[Mika]

I'll get my ws72 on Wed; there's - as always - many opinions how to run it in. How did guys do it? (sorry OT) I mean in short / in principal.

[dgrobe2112]

man that sux.. a whole month.. dang.. i will post some race info for your readin.. howz that?? i wonder if i boiled my XXXNT arms.. if they would be any more sturdy??

[Lapster]

Ok, i'll try bumping it up to 250, I dont need a ton of top end... i'll give the low end a good crank.

With my buggy I turned the fastest lap during pre race festivities. We do something called hot laps, 1 lap warm up and then your timed lap, 1 dollar to enter, winner takes all. I know I turned a 18 second lap with my truck, and my buggy is a lot faster... I crashed 1 time in the race... so I guess it would be around 4:40.

[KanaiDude]

Don't crank the low end to much, it likes it a tad bit rich on the bottom. If you notice your temps are up to much, the low end is probablyl to lean, it is very touchy on the bottom (kind of like my wife). This motor should absolutely fly on the top end at 250, with very good bottom end power. Watch your temps and don't lean the bottom to much, been there done that, you will flame out eventually if your bottom is not a hair rich.

[dgrobe2112]

Too funny Kdude.. like your wife.. im still ROF.. ok.. yeah.. the RG motor is touchy on the bottom, just remember.. the high end needle affect the low end of the motor.. so if you lean the HSN, you are actually leaning the bottom as well.. so remember that.. but 250 on the RG motor is great.. dont worry bout it.. you will be pleasantly pleased with it..

Mika, for breakin.. i do the heat cycle method..

[Lapster]

Hey, thanks guys. Another thing... do you guys have problems with your shock caps loosening and oil leaking??? I do... should I put thread lock on?

[dgrobe2112]

No.. i do not.. when i tighten my shocks.. i tighten hand tight.. then use a screw driver in the lid.. and a pair of pliers with some cloth around the shock bodie.. and tighten again

[Lapster]

Hey, after a few weeks of racing, I can say that I am 100% pleased w/ the buggy. I only have one problem, how can I reduce off power pushing? On power, the car is awesome, but when i'm in the 180's on my track, I cant turn.

[dgrobe2112]

to reduce on power push.. i would go with the 22 degree hubs.. if you allready have those on there.. then try doing a little bit of toe out in the front wheels, dont go too much.. maybe 1 dgree.. cuz too much will kill your exit steering. Also, you could lower your diff oil in the front.. if your Running the LSD diff.. you may want to think about getting a standard diff.. with 3K or 5k.. i personally run 5k in mine.. tamed the cars steering alot..

I have to agree.. now that i got a couple weekends on this car.. i am liking it more and more.. the car is great.. and it is alot better than my 7.5.. i think i could actually turn under my gas truck with this car.. and my gas truck turns awesome..