Prop Identification....

[Micho523]

I recieved 2 propellors with my nitro hammer, neither of which will fit the shaft. (Both are 1/8 and the shaft is 1/16.) One of the two is quite easy to identify, its an Octura 1440. The other one though, i havent been able to find any info on so maybe you guys could help. It says Fullahead 45 on it in all caps with a backwards "E". On one of the blades is the number 4554. It is 1 7/8" wide. Any ideas? Do you think either of these props would work well with the nirto hammer if a got an adapter? thanks! :D

[BoatDoc]

that 1440 is probably not a good prop. the nitro hammer can swing no more than maybe a 32-34 mm prop (and that's stretching it!). not only is that a 40mm prop, but it is also a lifting prop. the best prop i've found for mine so far is the X427. that other prop also seems to be WAY too much! at 1 7/8" it's about 3/4" too big! and just FYI...the nitro hammer shaft is 1/8, and those props are 3/16 shaft. you can get adapters to step up the shaft size, but it's not worth it to try those props, 'cuz you don't have enough power to swing 'em anyway.

[Micho523]

Lol thanks for straightening me out! :rolleyes: In that case, I have 2 props for sale... Hows $12 each sound?

[water dog]

I have a 3/16 shaft on my auquajet but I am not sure how those props would do .I have a 40mm prop on mine right now.

[Ron Olson]

DON'T run the 1440 prop on the Nitro Hammer! The Octura 1400 series props are for hydroplanes. They lift the rear of the boat and you don't want that.

[mjmsprt40]

Way back in the days when we ran engines without mufflers, I ran the 1440 on a SKDaddle 40. It worked-- well, sort of--- but it did porpoise the boat once. Ever see a boat hit a ripple, go airborne and then submarine? I did, that day. The boat had plenty of floatation, and nothing broke, so I got lucky.

Leave the lifting props to the hydros, which need it.

[Micho523]

Like I said though, these props were shipped with the boat, I didnt buy them myself. It did appear that the previous owner knew next to nothing about RC boating, except it is fun. :rolleyes: I was doing some sanding on the hull to remove some spraypaint that they put on a small section and guess what I find... two LARGE cracks, both all the way through the fiberglass! :eek: All they did was cover them with a cheap body filler and paint over it!! I took care of that though, and re-glassed the area. I would like to know who makes a good nitro-proof paint though.... I have an idea for the paint scheme... black faded to red with lime green flames :D What do you guys think?!

[Hydro Junkie]

The guys who run the scale hydros out here in the Pacific Northwest use primarily automotive paints. If you use a good quality paint, PPG being the first to come to mind, with a good clear, the fuel won't hurt the paint if wiped off fairly quickly. We have boats over 10 years old that still have the original paint jobs on them

[ahab2]

Hydro

Were Would Ppg Besold I Realy Need Some.

[Hydro Junkie]

Not being from your neck of the woods, my advise would be to check with some of your local auto body repair shops. Find out where they get their paints and supplies. You might also check with some of the auto parts stores and in the phone book for auto body repair/paint supplies. Out here in the Seattle area, most of the guys deal with Wesco Auto Body Supply, as they have PPG, Dupont, 3M and many other brands of paints and supplies

[scottericsonon]

auto air makes a real nice line of paints specifically for airbrush use that ive been using alot of

try here http://www.bearair.com/ or here http://www.dixieart.com/CreatexAutoAir.html

then clear with a quality ureathane clear like PPG or house of kolor

G/l scott