Tamiya Gravel Hound DF-02 Forum

[JDT]

I agree about the brushless, with guys selling traxxas vxl systems for $125 on ebay its hard to justify brushed motors anymore as brushless pays for themselves in the long run, I would stay aware for higher kv systems, the mm 5700 will work in there but runs hot, the 4600 is a much better choice, if you want larger tires for sure. The cheaper systems have there draw backs (programming mainly) but they were made to work in tamiya knock offs that suffer from just as poor of gearing, they usually have 3000 or 3300 kv motors so they stay cool on 2s or 6 cells. The vxl esc is not as good as the mamba IMO so mamba the mamba max controller and vxl motor, my favorite combo is the mm and lehner basic xl 3100 but these are $179 motors so I never pushed the gearing much 70/16 with a four inch tire, it is fast enough on 2s and just plain stupid on 3s, I am sure the vxl motor 3500 kv is not to far off the lehner power wise. I only had a vxl setup for a couple weeks and a guy offered me $50 more than I paid otherwise I would have tried the vxl allready. A guy on rcuniverse was using a vxl system with four inch tires and stock gearing 70/19 and reported no problems.

[timie1]

This here is about the best priced COMPLETE brushless setup I can find http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-motor-combo-hobbywing-ezrun60aslh-yeah-racing-sensorless-brushless-p-28133.html?cPath=1100_1252
This is sold under many different brand names, and if you search youtube for "ez-run brushless" you'll see them in action. There are different turns of motors they sell.

Compared to a brushed motor, this would be no comparison in the DF02 - as JDT said, they are made for Tamiya knock-offs with gearing issues, so it'll go nicely in the DF02.

Also, apparently they are very programmable with the included programming card thingy. Almost as programmable as the Mamba Max - nearly!!

[timie1]

Oh and I second that about the VXL motor and Mamba Max ESC. It's a little more expensive than the Asian systems, but it's a great setup in the DF02. Very quick and no heat and excellent runtimes.

[Steve at Danfor]

Gotta love the Mamba Max - It programmed easy and after speaking with a few fellows in the electerical section and doing a bit of research I hooked up one of my lipos and tested 'er out. The VXL Motor sounds great Andrew! I see you are not alone with your choice and praise of the system you advised me to get - So glad I followed your advice! - I shall post some pics after I finish the body. Cheers - Steve

[Steve at Danfor]

On another note don't use those packs with that motor and ESC at all. The VXL motor is capable of amp draws over 100 amps easy.You'll simply over amps those packs that are rated at only 60 amps max. You'll puff em' real quick. That motor and esc combo needs packs that can do 100 plus amps.

That's what was just said in the electrical forum - I asked if the Mamba would work with such a juicy battery.

[timie1]

Steve: I know that's what they say, but the motor only draws as much current as the battery can sustain. For example:

On my VXL I only run nimh cos it's all I have. My best packs can sustain about 35amps max constant. The motor may want more, but the batteries won't deliver more. So, the system isn't drawing more than a constant 35amps. The whole thing runs nicely at 35amps, give or take. The thing is, it's not CONSTANTLY drawing 35amps, if it did my batteries would go flat in a few minutes and be very hot. Even though the batteries can deliever it, they don't do it constantly. There would be times when it'll pull high amps, but only for short bursts, and it'll be the same with lipos. The thing is, lipos can deliver higher constant amps and higher short bursts.

You aren't driving around a 10lb monster truck with massive tires. You're driving around a 3lb buggy with stadium truck tires. I honestly think you'd be fine with those batteries. If my 4600mah nimh can last with only 35amps MAX, then your lipo's with their 60amps constant should be more than up to the task.

I would try your batteries, but check them every minute or so to make sure they aren't getting too hot. It's a good practice to get into if you value your batteries.

And furthermore:), the VXL motor is considerably easier on batteries than the Mamba 5700 motor. My nimh power the 5700 easily, and they power the VXL even easier. Lower KV = less current draw.
-Andrew

[JDT]

in my experience all but the highest kv systems can perform with nimh but you don't really know what you got until you hook up a lipo, its true that you can suck a lipo to fast and kill it, but I agree with Andrew the mamba 4600 or vxl or mm vxl combo will probalby put down about twice the power of a very nice brushed motor and esc regardless or battery, I would not be scared to run a 60 amp sustained battery in the df 02 with any of them three combos, if thats a 60 amp burst rating and 40 or something sustained you probably better watch it.

[timie1]

Hey, I just had a thought Steve
If you're battery is good for constant 60amps, put a 60a fuse between the battery and connectors, if you can find one. You won't ever exceed the rating of the battery.

Also, what you'd be advised to do is on the Mamba Max settings, dial the timing back to 0 - this will lower the amps more than the default timing advance. I've dialed the timing back on my setup and I noticed no noticeable performance decrease, but the temps were lower and runtime was a bit more. Granted, it may make a bigger difference on lipo.

[Steve at Danfor]

Hi Guys - Well those batts for my boat cost me large and I don't want to even take a chance wrecking them - I set the timing at 0 already Andrew - But thanks for the advice - I was not sure why I was doing it I just knew that brushless likes the low settings. I shall glue the Moabs to the rims today and wait and think a bit on the battery. Steve

[eylemkaan]

This here is about the best priced COMPLETE brushless setup I can find http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-motor-combo-hobbywing-ezrun60aslh-yeah-racing-sensorless-brushless-p-28133.html?cPath=1100_1252
This is sold under many different brand names, and if you search youtube for "ez-run brushless" you'll see them in action. There are different turns of motors they sell.

Compared to a brushed motor, this would be no comparison in the DF02 - as JDT said, they are made for Tamiya knock-offs with gearing issues, so it'll go nicely in the DF02.

Also, apparently they are very programmable with the included programming card thingy. Almost as programmable as the Mamba Max - nearly!!

Hey Andrew,

There is also the continuous and burst current values issue for all those ESCs. Ezrun's has ie 35A rating on one ESC but that is the continuous current, the burst current for that example is 190A!!!

As I've been a user for one of those combo systems (9T, 4300 Kv, 35A) for over a year, and the car [was a fully hopped up TT01 that read 92 km/hour] is still owned by one of my friends (a heavy and rough user I must say) no hickups whatsoever so far in the system.

Comin'to the programmable card; that is a miracle. Soooo easy to use and sooo many options. Just take the body shell off, plug the programme card, do what you want, put the shell back on... 10 secs and you are running with another setup! Brilliant. :winner:

With the DF-02 I donno now, but can tell in two weeks from now. My Ezrun BL is on the way, I'll only change the pinion to 16 due to 4.37" tires and hit the deck running. I'll be using a 7.4V 2S, since I know from my old TT01 what happens with that system when you use a 11.1V 3S :flame:

[timie1]

Steve: I understand why you don't want to take a chance with your battery. Would you consider getting a nimh pack for the DF02? A good EP4600 pack, like these (just 6 or 7 cells not 5 like the auction) http://cgi.ebay.com/Enrich-power-EP4600-EP-4600mAh-Ni-MH-1-2V-Battery-5pcs_W0QQitemZ370136220410QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio _Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item370136220410&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50
performs really nicely. With the 7 cells the car really moves and the battery doesn't get hot, so it can easily handle the current.

Kaan: Hehe, since finding that deal on rcmart, I've been thinking about getting it. I was thinking long and hard about the amps, what with Steve and his battery..........I think the 60A continuous ESC would be way more than adequate for any 1/10 car. I know you have the 35a one, but I just like the idea of more power:winner:, for much the same price. Do you know if those ESC's would have enough capabilities to run a 5700kv Mamba motor instead of the Ez run one? That is one thing I like about the MAmba Esc, you can run any motor you want on it, even sensored brushless apparently. It just runs the motor in sensorless mode, the esc is able to determine where the rotor is at, and it just runs.

Hmmmm, dilemmas:o

[Steve at Danfor]

Hi Andrew and All - Eric (RCCardude) has reassured me that 2 are OK but only in parallel - I did a bit of research and indeed its all good using the little 2 Batts into 1 Deans Parallel plug dealy I already have - They fit but tightly - It will be OK (They are worth large!) - So I have been balancing my tires after cleaning and gently getting off the shine in the bead with fine sandpaper - Big job - I want to get it right the first time out. Not gluing yet - That worries me - The CA glu I have is insanely runny and the jug is new so it really flows - I may loose a bit off the top so I can control it better. Steve

[timie1]

That's good news about the lipos. Eric is pretty good at replying with an educated response quickly :) Is there enough room in the chassis to securely mount two?

You could get a small paintbrush and just brush the glue on if it's that runny. Mine is also runny, well it was when I first got it, it's thickened a bit now - but I think it's better runny. If it's thick, you have to coat every bit of rubber in glue - and you're bound to miss some. If it's runny, it'll just flow and it WILL coat all the rubber with very little effort.
If it's not too late, just open up the nozzle a very tiny bit so not too much flows out. Or, Just leave the lid off for a day or so, it'll thicken up. It always does when you don't want it to, but probably never will when you do want it to.

FYI, the glue I have is made by Canadian Hobbycraft. It's in a white/clear bottle with a blue label. It's just from a lhs. It is very runny, and it works fine. Don't worry too much about the gluing, it's not as hard as it seems. What's the worst that can happen? The tire is a bit out of balance? It's just a wobble, that you won't notice when driving.

If you do majorly stuff it up, you can bake the tires off the rim and start again. That's an easy thing, baking them off, just don't get the oven too hot, or the plastic melts.

-Andrew

[eylemkaan]

Hi Andrew, you are on the edge of ordering one I can see :) I would advise you take a look at www.hobbywing.com for further details, but the answer is YES you can run the Mamba 5700 Kv with it.
Still though please take a look into the site before spending your money.

I got my body shell today, the mystery is still in the closet.
The paint is comin'on Monday. Will post some pix after the paint job ;)

[JDT]

4300kv on 4.37 inch tires might be pushing it, we got the mm 4600 into the 160s with just four inch tires on 2s, never tried the 4.9" mashers with that high of a kv motor.
Steve, you will love the way the df 02 bashes with the massive moabs, my masher 2000s are just 4 mm smaller, I suggest you get the sqaure spool for the rear, even without it you will be able to bash so much more terrain but with a spool you can drive out of the slap wheels you can now do with big tires and big power.

a ton of my pics are on page 113 including the homemade hinge pin braces I made, as the big power and big tires mentioned above will let you do superman stuff, the chassis gets broken when the arms mount, most brushless guys find this out lol, a curb shot can take an arm clean off!, I posted a pic of the sqaure spool once to but not sure where

[timie1]

JDT: I'm still waiting for a movie of your car with that setup on page 113 :D

Kaan: With your ESC from hobbywing, do you need the fan on it? If you took it off and just drove normally, how hot does it get? Also, the websites say the Ez run ESC's are splashproof, and some sites say they are waterproof. I don't suppose you've ever tested that feature? ;)
Browsing the official Hobbywing site, I discovered they have a 1/8 scale ESC that looks very promising for use on my emaxx. They even say it's splashproof = that's good enough for me and snow running, if it's true.
Do you know a place that has the 1/8 one, and how much it is?

Thanks, Andrew

[timie1]

Oh yeah, one other thing I like about the Hobbywing products........the literature that goes with, such as the online manuals and documentation.....it's actually in a near perfect english :D Not bad for a Chinese company!!:wow:

When you get yours setup, Kaan, we need a video of that brushless setup and those wheels. Goodman!!!

[Steve at Danfor]

Hi JDT - Thanks for the good words - I have read this post from front to rear and followed your good advice a while ago by getting a Square Spool - It's already in there Bro - Steve

[Steve at Danfor]

Hi Andrew - The glue job on the rims and tires went very well I believe - I got a lot of glue down into the right spots I hope. - Pretty Clean job too - Time will tell on that but like you said - The preparation of the surfaces is critical and I followed your instructions to the letter so I believe the adhesion is permanent. Thanks for your guidance as I would have followed the other instructions I have read where they say - clean with alchohol and glue away. That would have been crappy as the tires were bulging and out of shape before I "balanced" them and the glue would not have grabbed right as the surfaces were too shiney. Pic is of fanal results - All the best - Steve

[Steve at Danfor]

I got 1 drop of the super thin CA glue on 1 tire tread (you can just see it above) but it cleaned up real nice with a tiny bit of soap and water well after it had fully dried. I put a nice drop or 2 on the outer bead so it took a while to dry fully (like you said). Steve

[eylemkaan]

Kaan:
- With your ESC from hobbywing, do you need the fan on it? If you took it off and just drove normally, how hot does it get?
- Also, the websites say the Ez run ESC's are splashproof, and some sites say they are waterproof. I don't suppose you've ever tested that feature? ;)
- Do you know a place that has the 1/8 one, and how much it is?


Wow lot's to answer :eek:
- I never took the fan out, so have no idea. But my feeling is it never needs the fan?
- Not yet, I only had the splash-proof test once drifting through water. for the waterproof part I can tell after a while :rolleyes:
- 1/8... hmm let me think, did you look into ebay, and also ECPower HK site and their own site for sales?

[eylemkaan]

It's actually in a near perfect english :D Not bad for a Chinese company!!

When you get yours setup, Kaan, we need a video of that brushless setup and those wheels. Goodman!!!

Video guaranteed man don't worry, I'm really looking forward to run that baby on a show :wave:

Comin'to Chinese business sites. Yepp they're growing big on the market and most of them adapt very fast! I believe Japanese-sites have a lot to learn from Chinese-sites. At least the Chinese sites USE English!

[eylemkaan]

Hey Andrew,

Just a search in google:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/EZRUN-150A-SD-Brushless-Controller-ESC-for-1%2F5-1%2F8-Car_W0QQitemZ170289081028QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ2008 1223?IMSfp=TL081223123001r593

http://cgi.ebay.com/EZRUN-150A-SD-Brushless-Controller-ESC-for-1%2F5-1%2F8-Car_W0QQitemZ170289080692QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ2008 1223?IMSfp=TL081223111012r509

[Steve at Danfor]

They have 100A model and I have one for my boat - very nice to use - All automatic - just plug it in and go - They are $40. shipped. - Steve

[timie1]

Hey Steve: Wow, those tires look great. They'll hold up well. Yeah, I think the sandpaper is a great technique, far better than just alcohol. You drink alcohol, that's what it's meant for. Hey wait, we drink apple juice, why don't we rub the tires down with that? Maybe milk would work? ;)

I'm facetious!!!

To Steve and Kaan:
Those ESC's just keep getting better:D Duhhh me, I didn't even bother googling them, let alone searching ebay. Momentary lapse of reason. Don't worry though, normal service has resumed. Maybe I drank too much........apple juice and milk.

Have you got a link to that Mystery ESC on ebay Steve?

[timie1]

Look what I just found:

http://cgi.ebay.com/EZRUN-80A-SD-270A-SENSORED-Brushless-ESC-RC-1-8-Car-U_W0QQitemZ180318786830QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Co ntrol_Parts_Accessories?hash=item180318786830&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Not bad!!!!

Also, Kaan, you are right.....the Chinese sites at least USE english. Also, the American's could learn from the Chinese sites. Some descriptions on ebay by Amercians are terrible. You can tell when an American writes the description, and you can tell when a Chinese writes the description, and if you ask me the Chinese do a better job - considering their first lanugage isn't English.
Plus they ship things cheaper, and way quicker than the Americans.

[eylemkaan]

Ha ha that's completely right. I had couple of instances where it all went wrong with Americans. I can only tell "1" that went wrong with Chinese. And hell I buy a lot from East especially in the last couple of years!

That link, BULK VERKAUF :) it is in German, but the guy is Chinese! Man so commercial. They've got all sorts of offers from GBP to USD to AUD haha! I call that striving to meet reality and understanding the customer.

[timie1]

Yup, you gotta take your hat off to them, they supply what the customers want, and the prices are amazing. That BUL VERKAUF is EC Power, just in German, but the site is in English run by a Chinese. GEEEEZ. Of course, EC Power is in Hong Kong, and only 12 years ago the country was owned and built by the English, so that's probably why Hong Kong are good with english.

I just received a parcel today, Sunday (which is VERY odd that's it's on Sunday), and for me it's a sign :) I guess it's a sign I should get one of the EZ Run systems. I don't know what to get. The 1/8 scale would be great, but the 80A or the 150A? Then of course I'd like another 1/10 one, so would I be best to get the combo with 2 motors, or the one with one motor, or the one that comes with a sensored motor? It would be nice to try the sensored brushless design.

How smooth is the sensorless EZ Run system? Compared to the Mamba Max which is amazing with sensorless, there is no cogging. Hmmmm, so many options with different combos and ESC ratings. I'm confused. Too many options, haha.

[eylemkaan]

I've got a friend that heavily refused to use anything else than MM, but now today I know that he is waiting for a parcel from HK that has a 5.5T 60A combo ;)
So give him couple of weeks to tell the differences and compare both combo systems. I'll give him a line tonite, then we can easily get his opinions for a more objective comparison?

But you really need to clear your mind, you sound utterly confused. Too much to choose from eyh?

[Steve at Danfor]

The Ebay links are weird - One thing about the Mystery it plays a little tune when you power it up and there is no switch so it plays until you start vehicle. To me this is not a big problem as desirable ESC's for boats are way expensive and these Mystery's work great just out of the box - You must look into the programibility of these cheaper ESC's - I will check something and reply - Steve

[Steve at Danfor]

I enclose scan of a USB link and a "Prog Box" - Both of these are sort of universal for ESC's - They work on several brands of the knock-offs I know of - (XPower Pulso to name a couple I think EZRun too) . This is what you want to program up those ESC's guys. They were not that expensive either - The one needs to be used with a computer and the other works out in the field. Nice!

[timie1]

Steve: there is no scan showing up :(
and
Kaan:
Thanks for going to all the trouble. I'm very interested in your friends opinion of the MM compared to the EZ Run.

[timie1]

Ahhh, Steve, I found some photos of yours in RC Groups forum about your mystery esc.
It's no longer a mystery :)

[Steve at Danfor]

I hope

[Steve at Danfor]

OK try this

[Steve at Danfor]

Maybe later - It seems to be timing out or something

[timie1]

Hey everyone!

Congratulations, this is the most popular offroad thread. It's got 1000 more posts than any other, and an impressive 80,000 more views than any other offroad thread.

Long live the DF02:winner::driving:

[eylemkaan]

Hey all,
The success of the thread solely depends on the attention you pay on the open communication and honest feedbacks. I told you before, will say again: I've been subs'd to many forums all arund the world and this thread is like home! Thanks for all and hoping to contribute.
Best,
Kaan

[eylemkaan]

Hey all,
The success of the thread solely depends on the attention you pay on the open communication and honest feedbacks. I told you before, will say again: I've been subs'd to many forums all around the world and this thread is like home! Thanks for all and hoping to contribute.
Best,
Kaan

[eylemkaan]

Hey all,
The success of the thread solely depends on the attention you pay on the open communication and honest feedbacks. I told you before, will say again: I've been subs'd to many forums all around the world and this thread is like home! Thanks for all and hoping to contribute.
Best,
Kaan

[JDT]

I have said it a thousand times the df 02 is the best $100 you can spend in rc, it can be a truck, a buggy or a touring car with just slight alterations, I try to tell people that with bigger tires its the four wheel drive stampede we have all wanted for 10 years.
I hope tamiya keeps making the df 02 for years to come, from what I have been told they manufacture kits in korea, the phillipines and japan, and china, I have confirmed that japan and korea both make the df 02 chassis in runs, with two sets of molds and stuff I wouldn't be suprised to see a redcat type company get started after tamiya discontinues them. The china syndrome can sure as heck kick in on the 2.4 radio market and drive them prices lower.

[eylemkaan]

.... aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand comes the first pix of my secret body shell ;)

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/7002/s6303648sv0.jpg

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/1493/s6303652yi7.jpg

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5329/s6303653vh3.jpg

pictures are bit away from the real colour, but no sunsihe here :) the first picture is the closest I think.

[timie1]

That body and wheels combo looks amazing Kaan. It doesn't just look like big wheels plonked on a chassis, it looks almost scale. I want it!!!
I hope it goes as well as it looks.
Keep up the good work man.

[eylemkaan]

That body and wheels combo looks amazing Kaan. It doesn't just look like big wheels plonked on a chassis, it looks almost scale. I want it!!!
I hope it goes as well as it looks.
Keep up the good work man.

Hey Andrew, it's really nice to see the result as planned and imagined up in your head. I felt quite the way you did. It was more of a YEAH BABY feeling :D

Now I'm really hoping for the rest of the alu pieces to arrive, some work on waterproofing all that is in, and of cuz the BL system. Oops I shouldn't forget a nice LED system as well. Already masked the areas in purpose!

Then it is a good time for shooting that video! :cool:

[wastingmoney]

Hello everyone! I am a new df02 owner and I have been reading this thread along with buying some parts for my Rising Storm. Waiting on some parts to get here along with trying to decide what else to buy.

I was looking at going with some 1/8 scale buggy wheels and tires because I didn't like the look of most of the 2.2 tires, but wanted more ground clearance. They all look a little "short and fat" to me but I didn't want to go up to the Moabs or Masher size. Those Slash tires look like what I can go with instead. The 1/8 scale tires required a adaptor that was $25. The cost of the adaptor will almost pay for this rims and tires.

One question for Eylemkaan, do both the front and rear have the same off-set? I know that on a Stampede or Rustler, the fronts have a deeper dish than the rears to make room for the steering. Is the Slash the same?

JDT told me about this thread and I'm glad he did! This thread is alot more informative and active than the one over at rcu.

Anyways, sorry for the long post..... I'll go back to reading

[eylemkaan]

do both the front and rear have the same off-set? I know that on a Stampede or Rustler, the fronts have a deeper dish than the rears to make room for the steering. Is the Slash the same?


Hi there, both sets front/rear have the same off-set. But the tires being 4.37" diameter wise handle all the ground clearance you can ask for with no adaptors or anything.

[wastingmoney]

Thank you! Do your tires rub on the frame or anywhere else?

One more thing. Is there a way to get a e-mail when a new post is made? That is one thing I did like about the other thread.

Excuse the last question. I got the e-mail, how convenient.

[eylemkaan]

Hi there again, the tires are perfectly fitted. no contact with any unwanted parts, I was fearing of like c hubs, but not at all. The wheels are perfectly designed to fit any chassis.

In the UserCP link there is an option where you can say "let me know" or somethin'. You can guide yourself in there...

[timie1]

Wastingmoney: Welcome. At the other thread you'd NEED to be emailed when a new post is made. If you had that same option here in this thread, you'd fill your inbox up so quick. Sometimes when I get up in the morning there's like 6 new posts. Deleting that many emails would become so tedious.

I just have this thread as a permanent tab in my browser. That way you won't forget to check it, and you won't be pestered by tedious emails.

Kaan: That body really suits the car. Those beetles, when done up to a dune buggy, always have the exposed engine/rear end, so the body being a little short just makes it so wicked and scale.

Also, how are you going to waterproof it? More to the point, WHAT are you going to waterproof?

[eylemkaan]

yeah, I checked many times from the net for pix of those baja beetles. but as I said I was just imagining that the shocks and the rest of the chassis would give that feeling. and of cuz you don't know for sure, since I never had an axial body, or even an off road. so I pushed it a little but it ended all well I can say! thanks for the appreciation :) and keep on looking for more (you know what I mean: the video)

[timie1]

Youtube is banned in Turkey isn't it? That must suck, there's so many videos of those EZrun esc's and gravel hound vids on it.

[Steve at Danfor]

Very Nice Kaan!!

[JDT]

looks good, at 4.37 inches those slash tires are a nice medium between the mainly 4 inch truck tire scene and the big 5 inch mashers and moabs, the 4 inch tall tires make it a much better basher so those have to be even better.

[eylemkaan]

Youtube is banned in Turkey isn't it? That must suck, there's so many videos of those EZrun esc's and gravel hound vids on it.

Youtube is banned, but technology is far ahead of banning a DNS! Basically anyone can watch it freely if they know how to do small tweaks in their system.

I'll release my vid on youtube, so we'll all be watching :)

[eylemkaan]

Very Nice Kaan!!

Thanks man, I'm really excited about the LEDs, combo and the rest to come! I wanna drive the bugger :rolleyes:

[eylemkaan]

looks good, at 4.37 inches those slash tires are a nice medium between the mainly 4 inch truck tire scene and the big 5 inch mashers and moabs, the 4 inch tall tires make it a much better basher so those have to be even better.

Exactly, I'm striving to hit it on a ramp :D

[JDT]

some people think I am blowing smoke but my df 02 has driven away from 25 foot high 50 foot long jumps at the bmx track, full throttle over the biggest burm just to see what happened lol.

[eylemkaan]

25 feet high!!! MAN that is awesome. so tell me did it land on safely? or...

[Steve at Danfor]

Hey JDT - Are you saying my 5" Moabs are not as ideal as a 4" tire.

[Steve at Danfor]

I want to say how proud I am to be a "Gravel Hound" owner and active member of this thread and that I respect and value all opinions expressed here - Steve

[timie1]

Steve: I don't know exactly what JDT means by that, I'll let him answer that......but from what it's worth, I think those moabs will be sweet. I've seen the gravel hound run with other large tires, and it did struggle. However, I was unable to convince it's owner that gearing as low as possible needed to be done. Some people can't get their mind around gearing sometimes, and think that if it's geared "slower" then there is no way it could be faster.
On the car I saw running, and was actively involved in maintaining, it was using a 23t Tamiya motor with a weak nimh battery.

I'm 97% positive that with your setup and low gearing and a decent battery, you will be really happy with your moabs.

[timie1]

Hey Steve, you put one of those lipos I linked to earlier on backorder aye? I found this place that has some good ones. Take a look at this with free shipping http://swanghobby.com/product.php?productid=678&cat=13&page=1.

If the specs are accurate, that would last a long time in the gravel hound. Probably looking at at least a good solid half hour or 40 min of solid bashing.

I think I should shout myself a belated christmas present sometime soon. I just weighed my 4600mah nimh battery. It's only a 6 cell and it's 460g. That lipo is 150g lighter, yet probably twice the real world power. Hmmmmmm.

Has anybody experienced glitching in any of their systems after going lipo, when they didn't glitch with brushless and nimh?

[eylemkaan]

Never had glitching with Lipo. I would only and highly recommend that all Lipo users should have a Deep Discharge Protector (7-8$) adapted to their system. Otherwise it's very easy to disregard deep discharge and unfortunately to throw away your Lipo. Worth the investment!

[eylemkaan]

Hey JDT - Are you saying my 5" Moabs are not as ideal as a 4" tire.

What I get is that he refers to any tire larger than 4" is good to bash. So you should be happier than I am :cool:

[Steve at Danfor]

Thanks Kaan - I get it - I just want to build this thing right - Like You - My Friend - Steve

On another note I got my turnbuckles - I was not sure what to get so I got both - Which ones shall I try first in your opinions?

[eylemkaan]

MAN OH MAN
My combo set has arrived! These guys are getting better everyday. I remember when I bought my first combo from them, it all SKD (semi-knock down) so you had to do a lot of soldiering and all.

Now this comes CKD (complete KD) you just need to plug it in and there you go. They have the CKD with Tamiya plug. That was the only thing I changed (to Dean's).

It looks and sounds GOOD. But since I'm waiting on my 16T pinion didn't want to rush in, since -like you Steve- I really wanna do it right!

So, what else? Hmmm, yep LED set is on the way, silicon spray for waterproofing, some alu parts, front shocks... man go cross your fingers to have them all by this weekend!

[JDT]

sorry for the confusion fellas, Richard is right, anything over a four inch tire is going to be sweet for bashing, the only thing the moads will give up over a four inch tire is it will traction roll a little easier (this is the term for when you are turning at speed and the traction is good and the car barrell rolls sideways) With a lower kv motor its no problem to run the five inch tall tires, one guy on rcuniverse reported no problesm with the vxl and mm esc geared 70/19 with the moads! I would start at 70/16 and work you way up gearing wise if you feel like you need more speed, a good 2s at 70/16 will still get you to 30 mph or better which is fast enough for most yard and track bashing, I am lazy I would just run a 8 cell or 3s when I wanted to go a little faster.
Steve-Its good to know that yeah has that first package, I spent over $10 for 4 tamiya female ball studs like that, was that a dinball deal?
My "spair" car has the gpm ti turnbuckles
my "primary" car has been converted to run rpm cups and lundsford ti turnbuckles (ok I got almost as much in 6 tiny pieces as the kit cost lol)
using the losi female ball studs as the tamiya are a little different sized, I use four of the tamiya blue studs for the lower shock mounts otherwise my whole car is converted to the "normal" sized stuff

[JDT]

kaan sounds like you project is coming together nicely, get ready to embarass all the two wheel drives, I converted at least three people from stampedes just by out wheeling them every time we bashed, a couple have moved onto df 03s as they wanted to be more modern but the funny thing is both kept their df 02s as backups, that should tell you something lol, btw a df 03 is a much better buggy but a much worse truggy, it don't like the big tire treatment nearly as well, sissy ball diffs and plastic gears

[JDT]

I have had zero problems with glitching on lipos

[Steve at Danfor]

Yep JDT - That was a Dinball deal - He had a sale on when I ordered a while ago now. I have the 70-16 gearing setup so I feel confident. My lipos from my FE boat don't quite fit so MaxAmps had a sale yesterday and I got a 5250MAH 2cell 7.4V with Deans and the hard case. Bit over a $100. shipped but worth every dime as it has a 3 year guaranty and the MaxAmp batts are the best. But I don't want to get in a fight with anyone over that. We are all allowed our opinions.

Hey Kaan - I am thinking about LED lights too Man - Could I do it in this body? Which light kit do you have if you don't mind me asking. Thanks - Steve

[eylemkaan]

guys I couldn't do without and help waiting so gave the combo a run tonite with 70/19 (stock). it's awesome! awesome! 15 mins at home (my apartments quite big) rocking rolling everywhere. wify loved it, daughty was jumping away from the bugger, my 9 mo's son was just trying to catch it by his eyes. HOLY MF, this thing is fast.
First impressions:
- Immediately loosened out 3/4 hexes, thank God I saw and fixed,
- Motor get only a bit hot, gotta wait for the 16 pinion,
- ESC was quite fine no heat!
- The whole body is trembling with power when I lift it up and give it hot gas. Good that I've also ordered some alu parts and a lot of plastic spares ;)

Video... I'll try to shoot one tomorrow, no promises sorry: quite a busy day tomorrow.

[Forgetful_Duck]

Ah im depressed again.

My mate just T boned my Df02 with his brushless "Rally" car, at Full throttle. SMACK to the right side of the chassis. Sent my car spinning.

It blew half the paint off on the body, it just.. shattered off and somehting broke...

My servo Horn =(

Have 2 sets of horn parts comign from RCmart on EMS, ARGHH!!!

Luckily the servo was undamaged. Gonna try Epoxy the horn back together see how it holds up... not expecting anything though since its a stress point.

Also being a poor man, I've decided to try the 3 Racing shocks, for df03.
And a measily 25A brushless set up, the year racing drift pack.

[eylemkaan]

hey forgetty, remember: you don't have to be rich to be clever.
check these out before you buy anything:
<shocks>
http://cgi.ebay.com/Pair-Red-90-mm-Pair-70-mm-Alloy-Shocks-Absorbers-Oil_W0QQitemZ270329081258QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Toy sGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item270329081258&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A3%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
<9T, 35A, BL combo>
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Ezrun-Car-9T-Brushless-motor-35A-ESC-3in1-combo_W0QQitemZ260345262237QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadi o_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item260345262237&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A3%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

[Forgetful_Duck]

Hmm that is a slightly better deal... but 4300KV be a little too fast for me...

[eylemkaan]

which is fine! the guys also have 3032 Kv, 3300 Kv, etc. Just search on the ebay for 10T, 12T, as you like T :)

...and saying too fast, I only recall your messages w/friends of yours that have faster cars then you do. maybe you an give it a try LOL

[eylemkaan]

Hey Kaan - I am thinking about LED lights too Man - Could I do it in this body? Which light kit do you have if you don't mind me asking. Thanks - Steve
No probs man, I have YR kit I bought from Yeostore (ebay) austions. The guy usually has a lot for auction, he starts them from 99 cents. So I bid for 5 of them for 1 $ and win 1 or 2 at a time. I think he wants 5$ per one to ship to Turkey (should be same to US) and there you go 6$ for a set of 4 Blue LEDs and 2 Red LEDs.

But make sure you search for other options as well. I know there are kits that has a controlling unit that you bypass your throttle and steering connexns and they react to movement (like turn left and signal, full gas and full front, etc). I think they are 20-28$ including shipping. Better give it a try :)

Anyhow, for me all body shells are LEDable, it is a matter of wanting to do it!

And one last thing: why do you drill your body? There is a no-hole solution for that, and I have to tell it looks reaaaaly neat and real :) look for ABC Hobby stealth body mounts. http://www.xrc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=695 they used to be sold at ebay for 17$ including shipping, but now I cannot find any...

[Forgetful_Duck]

Hmmm they do too....

I'll see. Spend more money later upgrading again lol

Anyhow i fixed my servo horn lol

I epoxied it back together, it fits back perfectly in a jagged kind of way so theres some base friction there even though its a stress point.

Took it outside for a run just now, and its holding u...so far. As long as i dont have any more front wheel impacts, or SIDE ones directly hitting the servo.

[timie1]

Hey guys, I've been reading the entire thread for the EZRun brushless systems over on rctech.

The general consensus is the 35a ESC seems to be fine for 1/10 scale, but if you have anything bigger, like a Traxxas Slash then you're going to need the EZRun 60a esc.

NOW, the interesting bit. The hobbywing motors that are blue ribbed heatsink ones are actually a 380 sized rotor. This probably isn't an issue for the gravel hound with normal tires. Afterall, all the Mamba motors are really a 380 rotor size, and they go nicely in a 1/10 2wd or 4wd buggy. If you are looking for the EZrun system, then look for the x.5t motors. They are a true 540 size rotor. They don't have the heatsink built into the motor, that's the first obvious tell tale sign. Also, they have solder tabs, so you could change the wiring at the motor (that is what I love about the Traxxas motor).

The other good news, the 540 hobbywing motors and their 60a esc works very nicely in a large emaxx with just a 2s lipo, so it'll work wonderfully in a gravel hound with large 4" tires. Oh, did I forget to mention that the Traxxas VXL motor is a true 540 size rotor? This will explain why it takes a LOT more than the Mamba motor, a lot higher gearing and way less heat.

So, if you plan to do the large tire thing on the gravel hound, then I would sway to the larger 540 rotor motors and probably the 60a esc, however if you wanted to keep it stock size in wheels, then the 35a and smaller 380 size motor should be fine. The 380 motors are the single turns, ie, 9t motor - whereas the 540 are the odd turns, ie 8.5t motor.

Some guys on that forum have run the VXL motor on the hobbywing ezrun and it goes perfectly. If you want to be on the safe side and you value your investment, it's best to get the proper 540 rotor motors.

[Steve at Danfor]

Freakin holes are done Man - Now I find out about the "Stealth" body mount. I may use this body for running and get another nice one and some chrome wheels for when it sits on the shelf - All Winter which is crazy long. Thanks for the data about the lights - I will look into those ones you mention - I have seen some way expensive ones. Thanks Andrew for the find research on the EZrun and the knockoff motors - Steve

[timie1]

I too didn't know that those stealth body mounts existed. Thanks for pointing them out Kaan.

Although personally I don't mind the body posts poking through. At least you know the body is securely on there when the pin goes through. I have trimmed my posts down so there is very little extra above the body. The more complicated something is the more there is to go wrong.

Some people like to run their cars without the body, whether it's to cool the motor/esc or because it looks quicker without the body I still have no idea, but I'm scared without the body. Not so much a problem with the 4wd cars, but 2wd + brushless = wheelie heaven. Sometimes over excited wheelies. The body protects the delicate and expensive electronics inside in the event of a rollover. With those big tires and the high COG on the modified gravel hound, I dunno, I would be too nervous to drive it like it's meant to be driven without a body. So, my point is, I like the knowledge that the body is on there good and solid and isn't gonna come loose from some exclusive idea that's not caught on stealth body mount made in China, but that's just me :D

Oh and Steve: those Yeah Racing turnbuckles, in the photo it looks like there is only the titanium shaft and the blue ball joints. Does it have the rod ends as well?

About which ones to use first? hmmmm. Do you have some scales? weigh them and use the lightest first. If they break, then use the others.

[JDT]

Steve don't worry you will probably need to trim that body a little, my mashers rubbed on there so I bet the moads will to, I never trimmed mine as I figured it was short lived, mine is a ragged blue and blue version of that venom/atomik body, they are pretty long lasting, I switched over to just heavy duty velcro down the side of the bathtub chassis and only the most severe crashes jar it loose, of course this was after I drilled my body hole lol.

[Steve at Danfor]

I put these GPM ones on as they were already made :) - I shall keep the others as spares for the moment. Good thoughts on bodies. I should think it is crucial to run with a body well mounted. I believe I will stick to what I have now. I gotta take off the protective coating on that body and apply the decals - Is there any trick to that guys? l saw on a great RC TV show we have here on Saturday AM these guys were re-inforcing their bodies with fiberglass tape and shoe goo around the wheel wells and body post holes. Hows that sound to you guys?

[JDT]

we tried strapping tape and shoe goo on stampede bodies years back, it does offer a level of protection but it also stiffens the body up so you get the white stress marks more often, you don't get the crack as soon but your body ends up pretty ratty looking as the paints under the stress whitened poly, my body like that held up pretty good considering the first day it was ran I flipped it while set up the mm 5700 and 3s with the smaller buggy hawgs geared 70/18, burning across a parking lot tires ballooning all out them whip on its roof sliding away from me at 50-60 mph, that first crash of a new body is always the hardest, my truck body need replaced its torn from that little vent by the left side(american driverside) rear tire up into the wheel well, I shoe gooed a piece of an old wing inside to help hold it but its been fixed twice, now that tower has them back I will get another one pretty soon, I like champrc in japan so much I never order from tower anymore.

[JDT]

Steve can you use them other ones to replace the upper arms, thats what I did, those allow you to adjust the toe in, the upper arms allow you to change the camber, I guess I should have mentioned thats why I needed six pieces.

[timie1]

Steve, I also saw that show and that tip this last saturday. I had never thought of it, but it's a good idea. I have never needed to reinforce the body holes, if they're drilled smoothly there is no reason why they should rip. Other parts of the body are more inclined to rip though. I think the technique is a good idea.

A piece of advice I can give is use a dremel and round every single concave cut so it's not a right angle. You may have to take off a bit more if you've already cut it the smallest it will ever be and you have a right angle, or any angle that isn't round. This will help 1000% with the body tearing when you flip, crash, or roll.

Once the protective coat is taken off the body comes alive. It's pleasing to the eye when it's so shiny and no little annoying plastic overhanging edges and holes.

http://pictures.xbox-scene.com/3/neon-logo/SandingPcs.jpg That middle bit in the pic is the best sort to get tight, but circular, "90°" angles.
On the wheel cutouts use a bit like this http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/115249_front200.jpg
And finally on the straight contours of the body use a block of wood coverd in sandpaper to keep the edges as straight as possible and give a nice finish that won't crack with a flip.

[eylemkaan]

I put these GPM ones on as they were already made :) - I shall keep the others as spares for the moment. Good thoughts on bodies. I should think it is crucial to run with a body well mounted. I believe I will stick to what I have now. I gotta take off the protective coating on that body and apply the decals - Is there any trick to that guys? l saw on a great RC TV show we have here on Saturday AM these guys were re-inforcing their bodies with fiberglass tape and shoe goo around the wheel wells and body post holes. Hows that sound to you guys?
I've been using the stealth body mounts in all of my onroads, it could be that they will not cling well on the off-roads. But I'll try first and let you guys know what is true? Otherwise it is just wild guesses flying around :)

For applying decals, take you body shell and decals to your sink. Well wet your decal as you apply them, make sure body is all wet as well. Position the decal eaaaaaaaasily, and then just rub out excess water. Tataaa perfect positioning!
Wheel well reinforcing is always good, but is it perfect? NO. So consider weight of reinforcement, and your need for speed. If it'll break it always breaks.
For any HPI body (they are weak, considering Tamiya or Parma) I would strongly recommend you do some around the wheel wells, but then hot glue (silicon) and some plastic will do fine. Don't bother for more.
:teacher:

[Steve at Danfor]

Ok Guys - Thanks for all that - One question arises as to the trimming ndrew - I am not sure what you mean - In the picture you see the inside rear wheel well. There is little tab of body that is like a little lip around the well - his little lip is not all around the bottom of the body totaly - Is this waht you want me to trim off Andrew - Threre arn't any 90 degree angles I could see but am I missing something - Steve

[Steve at Danfor]

Ok Guys - Thanks for all that - One question arises as to the trimming Andrew - I am not sure what you mean - In the picture you see the inside rear wheel well. There is little tab of body that is like a little lip around the wells - this little lip is not all around the bottom of the body totally - Is this what you want me to trim off Andrew - There arn't any 90 degree angles I could see but am I missing something - Steve

[Steve at Danfor]

Steve can you use them other ones to replace the upper arms, thats what I did, those allow you to adjust the toe in, the upper arms allow you to change the camber, I guess I should have mentioned thats why I needed six pieces.

Ah Ha - Ok - That is indeed what I shall do JDT - Thanks - Steve

[Forgetful_Duck]

Hmmm, can't you simply just attach velcro strips on the inside edge and chassis to secure the body?

[timie1]

No no Steve, I would leave that little lip on there. What I'm talking about is if you cut those wheel arches with scissors, it's going to be composed of a whole bunch of small straight cuts. With wheels wells it's hard to cut it perfect with scissors, so use the dremel to round it out nice and smooth. If it's rounded nicely there is way less chance of it splitting later on.
With the wheel arches though it's more of an aesthetic look, but on other parts of the body, like around the front, or back, if there are numerous angles to cut out and lots of detail. It's not so common on buggy bodies, but tamiya touring car bodies contain lots of rear end detail, and I was wondering maybe truck bodies do as well. Using the dremel on tight detailed places REALLY helps.

Also Steve, I want to talk to you about boats!!!! I'll PM you about it. I'm a complete newbie with boats, and I can hardly seek your advice in setting mine up in the DF02 forum. I'll do that soon, not now though, it's too late.

[Steve at Danfor]

Hi Andrew - OK - I will leave all as is I believe - You can see from the picture all the trimming I had to do was a small triangle off the rear of the front wheel wells. The Moab's are close but seem to work and not touch anywhere. I shall test again - Steve - PS about Fast Electric Boats - I just ordered a hull and some hardware from the best guy on EBay. Building them yourself is a lot of fun and bit of a challange and nice savings over buying say a "Super V". Check out the forum I use - I am on page 17.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8344725

[JDT]

Hmmm, can't you simply just attach velcro strips on the inside edge and chassis to secure the body?

yeah you can, I use the "industrial strength" kind from walmart in 1 inch wide, all the way down the sides of the chassis, the adhesive backing on it was good enough to stick to the chassis and body for a while,the chassis is stuck good but the pieces on the body had to be shoo gooed back on eventually, works great for me, it only gets knocked loose by the hardest crashes and usually only the impact side comes loose

[Forgetful_Duck]

Ah so it moves eventually?

I aint probably goign fast enough then lol.

Anyhow good news.
I was lookign at ebay searching "ezyrun" thanks to kan for the heads up on that, and found this...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180320149445

with 8 mins to go, i did some quick maths and concluded, BUY!

Works out about $103 AuD including shipping.

The next best deal would be the rcmart $94 ~ USD 60A hobbywing ESC + 3300KV brushless etc, but adding postage to that , i ended up with $150+ AUD bill....

I hope 4300KV isnt too fast for the DF02... I'm using stock gearing, 70/19
But i have fully ball raced it, so im guessing it should hold up?

[eylemkaan]

I can tell, you did a gooood job. I used it as is 70/19 with a 7.4V 25C 4.500 mah Lipo couple of hours ago AND IT WAS FAAAAST! You can still mess'round with all the options the programme card provides and make it a more humble drive.
Ball bearings are MUST, so I believe it should all work fine.
What tires are you using, stock?
Let me know when you receive and install it :)
Kaan

[eylemkaan]

"any" clues on waterproofing anyone? I've read many with plastidip (no way you can find it here on my block), some with silicone sprays (ever heard of it? coz that is available), many with ballooning.
still waiting on an answer from Hobbywing on splash/water proof ESC?

[Forgetful_Duck]

As for tyres, I'm using the standard stock Size type of wheels and tyres.

I've bought a set of TOPCAD wheels preglued with tyres, with minor round spikes, for bashing. I've prtety much worn the rears to about 30% spikes left and the front's are BOLD, so now they are slicks =)
This was after a lot of agressive driivng on nice big open concrete carpark.

I'm also plannning to buy a set of 3 Racing wheels made for the DF03 (exact copy really of the tamiya ones) for Dirt bashing.

I believe i'll end up with a different set for each different type of terrain. lol

[eylemkaan]

It's good that you have more than 1 set of tires, the 9T is pretty faster than your stock brushed one. You'll need them anyhow :) Best of luck!

[Forgetful_Duck]

kaan, would it be possible if you could measure the height of the ESC including the fan?

Where have you set urs up? In the midle of the car on top of the drive shaft or on the side? Just wondering if the cover will hit the fan / block or be too close...

[eylemkaan]

sure mate, it is 32 mm's from bottom to the top of the fan. I placed it in the middle of the car on top of the tray over the drive shaft.

but please keep in mind I'm using a beetle blitz as my body shell.

[Forgetful_Duck]

Ah thanks mate, 32mm!! thats pretty small. My brushed ESC is 30mm, guess i wont have a problem having it back in the usual spot of beign wedged between the motor and servo.

I had to pay for my set via echeque on paypal =(
going to take a while.... sigh...

[eylemkaan]

tell me if you need pictures of the interior as I placed everything already.

[eylemkaan]

well let me post it anyhow, cuz I need to go to bed :huh:

http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/2884/s6303693xu0.jpg

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/4955/s6303695py2.jpg

http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/4382/s6303696kz1.jpg

[JDT]

duck you should be fine with the stock sized tires and that 4300 system
anyone that has gone to a truck body can move the receiver over to the top of the battery strap at the back by the antenna post, then you can center the esc for weight balance and not have to worry about interferance between the motor wires and the antennna.
Waterproofing is a touch subject, I cover the esc with a plastic ziplock, balloon the receiver(its the most delicate imo) and just let the motor hang out, of course the mamba and feigao motors are sealed from the factory so it takes a little to get water in them(maybe 100 hours of snow bashing no incidents) I wouldn't risk either of the lehners though. I think many of the ezrun motors have vent slots, you could probably find heat shrink tubing big enough to seal them up but that might make them overheat, which usually means a defragged (exploded) rotor.

[timie1]

A while ago I found a thread where some guy had bought 2 mamba 25 sytems, one for the sole purpose to see how well it went underwater and the other to just use normally.

He got a bucket of water and fully submerged the little mamba motor, including the wiring and connectors. He didn't submerge the ESC.
He was totally amazed that the motor was able to run perfectly 100% submerged with full throttle. He tested it for a whole battery pack or two, then took it out and dried it off. As far as I know he's still using it. Just re-oiled the bearings.

So, according to him and the video, brushless motors are fine to run underwater. Certainly watching the video confirmed that. The Mamba motors may be somewhat sealed, but you could never seal a motor 100%. There would have had to have been water getting in it for 2 batteries running through it at full throttle.

About waterproofing the ESC, Hobbywing claim they are waterproof and dustrproof. Therefore if it breaks from some moisture on it, sue them :D
My friend was game enough to test his gravel hound in the snow using the stock TEU-101 esc and a more expensive Tekin ESC. I'm glad he tried and not me. The amazing thing is, running in lots of slushy snow, the ESC didn't get any wetter than a few drops on it. This was playing for a whole pack, about 20 minutes. He had positioned his ESC on top of the driveshaft. He sealed the bottom of the chassis with duct tape, and then he also taped the sides of the body to the chassis. The only place water could get in was from the front wheels. Not enough gets in with the Gravel Hound body. It may be different with a VW Beetle body, or a truck body though.

I tend to disagree with JDT about the receiver being the most delicate. They are the cheapest thing to replace (using a cheap AM system) if it breaks. I've had some of my ones really wet back in the day when I used my Grasshopper outside in the pouring rain. It's now over 20 years old and it's going strong.
Sealing an RX is easy because you don't need to worry about airflow over it to cool it. As JDT said, get a balloon and stuff the RX in that. Someone also said in another forum that a condom works. That could be a little embarrassing when the little sprogs of the neighbourhood look at the car and ask "what's that?". So I'd stick to a balloon.

Best way to waterproof a servo is buy a waterproof servo. They are cheap, and work well. They are designed for use in a Emaxx or Revo, so they have plenty of torque, and they are easy to get on feebay.

Kaan: is that the RTR Losi 2.4ghz receiver you've got there? How is that system? I'm thinking of going 2.4 at some point, but I can't justify spending $200 on just the radio like the Spektrum or Futaba ones.

[eylemkaan]

Hey Andrew, gotta get item! I bought the whole set including shipping for a 99$ (digital servo, receiver, transmitter) almost 6 mo's ago. It is PERFECT! No need to spend foolish dollars on anything else.

Thanks for tips on waterproofing, anybody else wanna contribute?

[eylemkaan]

I shot the video down at our receiving bay this morning. You really have to see the end where it all unscrews itself :eek:

Most of the time half throttle, or maybe some more but never full! The devil is fast guys, take a look:

http://vimeo.com/2835093

[timie1]

Kaan, how is the build quality of it? Is it nice and solid? What about the range? I want something that can go farther than the eye can see. Also, do you have the MTX Pro version with EPA controls?

[timie1]

LOL - Kaan, I just watched your video. That IS quick!!! I think you've just convinced me that the 35a ESC is more than capable enough. That was quite funny at the end when the wheel fell off.
What battery were you running at the time? Also, how hot was the esc and motor?
That 35a esc for $40 shipped is amazing.

[eylemkaan]

LOL - Kaan, I just watched your video. That IS quick!!! I think you've just convinced me that the 35a ESC is more than capable enough. That was quite funny at the end when the wheel fell off.
What battery were you running at the time? Also, how hot was the esc and motor?
That 35a esc for $40 shipped is amazing.

Hey Andrew, couldn't believe myself! Not one sign of heat on any of them (keep in mind today is 8C, gotta see it sweat in the summer time as well) and you only see half of the runtime in the video. And never to forget, the 16T pinion didn't just fit in so this is 70/19 stock setup.

The battery is a 4200 mah, 7.4V, 25C Lipo. 25C makes all the difference. I tried it with my oldy 15C last night, no way near :confused:

[timie1]

Thanks Kaan for that info. I don't suppose you've got some nimh to try on it?

If there wasn't snow covering all the roads around here, I'd take a vid of mine with nimh and the 3500kv VXL. You've got the standard wheels that you can put on do you?

[Forgetful_Duck]

Oh my god kaan that is WAYYY too fast!

[eylemkaan]

Nimh: I gave up a long time ago ;)

Standard wheels: I still have them but don't think I'll ever put'em on, these ones are VEEERY much suit for my kinda game.

[eylemkaan]

Oh my god kaan that is WAYYY too fast!
:D I told ya :D

Beware friends of forgetty!

PS: You'll be running a Nimh IMO, that'll hold your horses, don't worry :teacher:

[Forgetful_Duck]

Actually i have a 30C lipo arriving hopefully tomorrow... LOL

I ended up buying some stuff from ECpower =)

[eylemkaan]

LOL

Then... beware friends of Forgetty!

[timie1]

LOL, Kaan, you have a way of with words. I'm confused sorry, "beware friends of Forgetty"????

The only reason I ask about your standard wheels is cos I'm wondering if the car my be quicker, or slower, with standard wheels. Logic says it would be slower top end, but there is a possibility it may be quicker. Depends if the motor/esc/gearing is over stressed with those Slash wheels.

I'd just like to see it run and see how it goes. It'll give me an idea of how stressed it MAY be ;) (Same reason for asking about the nimh)

Visually I'm comparing it to my VXL motor on my MM esc with nimh and standard wheels. With that setup I can gear it as tall as the car will allow, and I think it is about the same speed. Maybe a bit slower, but very similar. I am running nimh though :)

[eylemkaan]

LOL, Kaan, you have a way of with words. I'm confused sorry, "beware friends of Forgetty"????

Haha, I only remember from the recent posts that his friends with faster motors were either beating him off the track or harming his gear. so with this new setup they should beware and maybe even behave :cool:

Just teasing, no offenses here. Please don't get me wrong.

I get your points as well, I cannot help with Nimh, as long as I come along with a friend that has one with Dean's plugs installed. But with the original wheels (although I'm quite sure it will take a heap of stress from the system) I might give it a try sometime and let you know.

Best,
Kaan

[timie1]

Cool thanks man. I don't know what the time is there, but here it's 3am. Time to toodle off to bed.

[eylemkaan]

Wow, sleep tight then. It's only 12:47 pm as I'm posting this one. So quite lunchy yet!

[Steve at Danfor]

Looks Great Kaan! Just watched your video Man - Excellent Work! - Steve

[eylemkaan]

Thanks mate, will finalize within a week or so. Then most prob shoot another video. Tell me if you see some points to improve (except for the wheels flying off, locking nuts unscrewed, and the front wheels taking off as I push the gas) :)

[Steve at Danfor]

I am sort of new at RC cars Kaan so I won't say much beyond the fact that I am impressed - I like the body style and paint job a lot - very tasty. Take care Bro - Steve

[eylemkaan]

new is good, always many to learn,
mature is better you can brag about what you think you know (eg myself :)),
old is great there's so much to tell, but you pick and choose real benefits for people ;)

[JDT]

Richard, if I had a am system I would be more risky with the receiver but I switched out to JR FM long ago, the rs310 receivers are $74.99 list price and pretty much locked down by the dirty rats at horizon hobby, the cheapest I can score a new one for it $59.99 plus $7.99 shipping so I have to be a little careful as I have two non working one allready. My mini slider came with the losi 2.4 system, I have not had any problems with it, I like that it only uses four batteries. I wish the 2.4 revolution would have pused fm stuff into cheapy zone. The guy that runs truerc has some 2.4 modules and receivers for high end radios that are much cheaper but my XS 3 pro is not a module radio, of course I paid well over $200 for mine years back you can core brand new ones off ebay for $109 now. I don't know what I will do when my last of three rs 310s die, probably be a sheep and buy a spectrum but I would really love a helios JR radio with the 2.4 system from true rc in it. Time will tell. Hopefully not to soon lol.

[JDT]

kaan, I am 36, a dinosaur in terms of rc right? Most guys as old as me are on here trying to fix there kids cars lol

[eylemkaan]

hey hey... I would never call 36 a dinosaur man!



which month? :) mine is november 7, 1972 :D

[Steve at Danfor]

Here it is coming along. That's it for the stickers - I used the ones that came with the parts too. Gotta cut down the body mounting post a notch or so. One thing I thought of though - My front wheels don't seem to reef all the way down to the plastic liner at the end of the nut. The rear ones are fine however. I will take another look and maybe post some pics for opinions. I don't want to lose a wheel up at the lake - I'd never find the nut. Thanks Guys - Steve

[Steve at Danfor]

Whoa - I'll be 54 in June - I'm a newbie at this trying to get some kicks that I missed out on as a kid - I am glad to be at something like this with you guys - Steve

[eylemkaan]

that is one animal! good job, well done! I'm looking forward for a video ;)

[eylemkaan]

Hey Steve, I'm looking forward to be 54 and hit the mud with a DF-02. My daughter will be 26 and my son 18 by then. Yeah baby no more school payments :D

Live a long and healthy life!

[Steve at Danfor]

Right On Brother - Sounds like you have a great family - All the best - It's insanely cold here this week -30C today and the snow is deep but I will get a video out to you guys sooner or later. Probably find an indoor garage as Andrew suggested when it gets a wee bit warmer. Take Care - Steve

[JDT]

sept 27 1972 here, Steve I guess I was thinking Danfor africa, but I would bet my last dollar its not -30 in africa right now, that is bruttaly cold its -17F here today, thats about -27C so we are in the same shape. Our high today is going to be below zero, supposed to warm up for the weekend, a balmy + 17 for a high friday then working into the lower 30s which will feel pretty good after this week of 10 or less in the sunshine, below zero every night for a week, windchill is supposed to be -40 out there right now. Its 45 degrees in alaska today but we are frozen, what is up with that

[JDT]

I forgot to mention my old venom/atomik body had all those little vents cut out, the roof, hood, and both spots on the rear fenders, it appears they are no longer cutting them, this may help keep it solid longer as mine first tore by the lower wheel well one.

[eylemkaan]

man thatz freezing cold. it's warm here lately, around +5C to +8C daytime, frequently below 0C these days.

hey, 40 days younger... I feel great :D

[Steve at Danfor]

Yep - I cant figure it out either JDT - I noticed how warm it is in the far north too - We have problems with the Arctic ice melting in the summer - but geeze - It's melting in the winter too! Supposed to be cold like this for another week here so I will list a pile of stamps on EBay and start work finalizing my Team Associated RC18T that I am hopping up. That's Danford Lake and hour north of here in the Gatineau Hills. Sure is nice up there for a bit in the summer - If you blink your eyes it's over however - That's the price we pay for living in Canada and I don't know if it's worth it. I was in Turkey for a month when I was much younger (on an overland trip to Nepal) and we spent a month in Turkey - Man - That is one beatiful country. And the food is Superb amoung many other things - That note to Kaan - Take Care guys - Steve

[timie1]

JDT: just for clarification, who is this Richard you speak of? ;)

Kaan: I can't see anything that absolutely needs to be done. The only thing that I can see, which has already been discussed, is getting some adjustable upper suspension arms to adjust camber.

Maybe, just so I can brag about what I think I know ;), take off that rear wing mount, seeing as you don't have the wing on there. It's just added weight.

Is there any way you can show how those stealth body mounts work? Like taking a photo with a clear bit of lexan in place of the body? I'm still trying to understand how they clamp the body on.

[timie1]

WOW, aren't we all a bunch of old buffers :D

I can safely say I'm the youngest one here. 29 as of now, 30 in a little over 2 months.

Yo Steve, you can blame us in Alberta for your cold snap. Us Albertans blame us, so you may as well. They call it an "Alberta Clipper".

It's warmed up nicely here, today it's 6°C. The snow hasn't melted though. They don't plow the roads here, and they don't salt either, so the snow takes forever to melt at these warmer but still cool temps.

[Forgetful_Duck]

I'm 20 beat that...

Full time university student and on 3 month holidays, too much time on my hands.

[eylemkaan]

Kaan: I can't see anything that absolutely needs to be done. The only thing that I can see, which has already been discussed, is getting some adjustable upper suspension arms to adjust camber.
Maybe, just so I can brag about what I think I know ;), take off that rear wing mount, seeing as you don't have the wing on there. It's just added weight.
Is there any way you can show how those stealth body mounts work? Like taking a photo with a clear bit of lexan in place of the body? I'm still trying to understand how they clamp the body on.

- Upper suspension arms... hmm I'll consider that thanks.

- The rear wing mount is there so it clamps a flag pole :) I'll make pictures to tell more, but I like those flags (triangle shaped, a flag right, or do you have a better word for them?) :cool:

- The body mounts and clear lexan is almost impossible at the moment, but I'll try to tell in quite a comprehensive way:
There is two parts (i) one that you cling to each body post which has a "U" shaped top, (ii) second part is a rotatable/movable thing that you actually stick to the body from the inside with a 2 sided tape which is "O" shaped.

These two parts (U and O)fit each other perfectly with actually a TICK sound and you can actually lift the whole car by the body shell. So they really have a tight grip.

Please let me know if it's still not clear. I'll try the picturing...

BUT, I've tried it tonight again over some hoppy toppy grass and I've witnessed twice that actually one of the stealth mounts come off when I drive the bRuggy really fast. :confused:

MORAL of the story is:
Stealth mounts are VERY good with onroads, it is a must have for the realistic look and convenient usage still though... :(

They SUCK with off-road if all terrain driving and bashing is the case. For speed runs only I may still recommend them. ;)

[eylemkaan]

I'm 20 beat that...

Full time university student and on 3 month holidays, too much time on my hands.

Hey Forgetty, most probably you keep hearing it time to time, BUT I'll say it again: that too much time runs real fast. So squeeze the most out of it.

Not to draw a pessimistic scenario about what the future will be, since I'm more than happy to be 36 and with my family, but just a reminder from a "mature" fart :D (not old yet, even Steve is not old yet ;))

[eylemkaan]

Kaan, how is the build quality of it? Is it nice and solid? What about the range? I want something that can go farther than the eye can see. Also, do you have the MTX Pro version with EPA controls?

Sorry man I skipped this one... but let me answer all:

- Build quality is very solid, better than any FM/AM almost as good as Spektrums. Very nice grip I have to tell and you feel that it is of quality material.
- Range: Frankly speaking I see the car on the range as a small moving dot even on a bright day AND still transmitting. I actually guess the way back and hope that I'm on the right track. Usually comes back :D
- The one I have is MTX PRO and the model number is LOSB0807. I hope I am of help.

[timie1]

Ahhh yes that does make sense Kaan about the body mounts. Good description.

The problem you described about running in grass is EXACTLY my point in the other page of this thread. Now you know why I''m stuck in my ways, old skool quite often is better/more reliable :D Thanks for your honest report, it is appreciated.

What will you do now? Are you going to put the normal body posts back on and drill a hole?

[eylemkaan]

What will you do now? Are you going to put the normal body posts back on and drill a hole?
Haha already done! Immediate action here ;)

[Steve at Danfor]

Hi Guys - I have not used the double sided tape (or is that the right stuff)that came with the kit yet to fix on the ESC and Receiver. Any advice for their placement and how to hold 'em in place. I've got lots of room under that Atomix Truck Body. - Steve

[JDT]

sorry Andrew, don't know where I got Richard from lol, my uncle Richard is the father of my cousin Andrew if that counts for anything, I am Jim by the way but have been an initial boy my whole life either JT or JDT as there was to many hippy chicks in love with James Taylor in 71 and 72 alot of my classmates were James, Jamie, Jaime, Jimmy, Jim etc

[JDT]

Steve, I put my receiver on the battery bar to keep it away from the power wires for the motor, I put the esc in the middle of that platform there above the driveshaft tunnel, I attachually drilled a hole in that lower table for the servo and mounted my switch there with a single screw, held up so far, I always intended to dremel a little notch to put the switch down in but never got around to it. When running stock body and brushed I cut the back leg off that lower table and had the reciever there, this allowed the top plate to move around a little so it had to be double stick taped also.

[Forgetful_Duck]

Steve, reciever ontop of the servo and ESC in the middle?
Double sided works well if u think you wont be moving it around, otherwise its a bitch trying to clean off the tape if u do rip it out.

I personally use just masking tape, curled around and stuck (as double sided). it's not very secure (you can pull it off easily and without any stains), but enough to hold things down even after a day at the carpet track.

[timie1]

I still have my double sided tape that came with the kit sitting in my toolbox. For some reason I haven't used it. It's probably better than the crap you can buy in most shops.

Yes double sided tape is the best way to mount 'em. I use velcro on my other car, but it's nowhere near as good as good double sided tape. I've found that the (dare I say it) cheap foam based tape is just as good as the more expensive "No more nails" tape, which isn't foam. The foam resists the jars, and sand that will find it's way under the tape, and moisture, better somehow, than the plastic based tape. Pity the glue on the cheap stuff isn't as good as the glue on the no more nails tape. Oh well.

This is a must, use two layers minimum of tape. Trust me, it's far better. I can't explain why it's better, it just is.

There is a major benefit of the No More Nails tape though, you can pull the things off in one piece, and it's not a bitch to remove, because it stays completely intact during removal.

What's that steel bracket under your chassis? Is it some sort of brace? If it is, that's a good idea.

[timie1]

JDT: LOL. Ooooook, I guess then Richard is a fitting name :)

Oh and Steve, mount the receiver on the front of the tray, and the ESC behind it. I have no issues whatsoever with glitching or interference with it close to the RX. I did experiment with positioning the RX on the battery hold down, but I don't like moving it all the time when I unload a battery. My logic is, as few moves a possible will mean less maintenance on the solder joints, as they stand less chance of coming loose.

[timie1]

Then again, you're using the truck body, you have loads of room.

Put the receiver on top of the servo part of the tray, then just put the ESC in the middle over the driveshaft.

[Steve at Danfor]

Geeze Man - That's so easy - just what I thought - I'm on it Andrew - Thanks

[eylemkaan]

The foam resists the jars, and sand that will find it's way under the tape, and moisture, better somehow, than the plastic based tape.

This is a must, use two layers minimum of tape. Trust me, it's far better. I can't explain why it's better, it just is.


Hey Andrew, 2-layers-minimum foam tape is a lot better than the from-the-box double sided since it is a great shock absorbant. the double sided sticks well but emits almost directly, while foam absorbs most of the impact.

Steve, I would only suggest that you have some distance between your ESC and Transmitter if you are going to place them adjecently. This is cuz the heat from ESC->Transmitter is no good for your Transmitter.

[timie1]

Hey Kaan, the Mamaba Max ESC's can take soooo much that on a 1/10 car it barely gets warm. I don't think Steve will have heat issues on the ESC. I could be wrong, but I don't think so ;)

Does your EZRun esc get really hot?

[eylemkaan]

it never gets hot, not even warm. But I always take that precaution since my receiver is 50-80$ on ebay (shipment is a heavy burden) :cool:

[eylemkaan]

Hey Andrew, remember I was talking about the flag? Here's the picture:

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/3818/s6303699xw2.jpg

BTW I found 2 great looking mirrors from my rc-toolbox. I'm thinking of placing them on the sides of the bonnet. Let's see how things are gonna roll? I wonder.

Next tuesday I'll be receiving rest of my part orders, and also next week the LED kit's gonna arrive. Next weekend's gonna be GREAT :)

One last thing: maybe you guys know the ramp plan from the misbehavin'rc site. Today one of my friends used his carpentry talent, his leftovers in the workshop and my self-adapted measurements, and TA-TAAA I've got a ramp for free! Gonna take a picture OR video in the weekend if it ever stops RAINING! ;)

[timie1]

HAhaha, that flag is cool. Instead of two fluffy dice hanging from the rear view mirror in the car, you got two "fluffy" dice on the flag. It's a classic, I like :D

How big are the mirrors you're thinking of putting on? I've got rear view mirrors on my Honda NSX road cars, and when it was new I thought, "those aren't gonna last", BUT the body is old now. It's seen it's fair share of rolls and crashes and is generally pretty beat up. The body is cracked in so many places. Bits of lexan are coming off at the front, and the back. Paint is flaking off the body, and it's nicely scratched up. The wing on the back broke off long ago. I now use epoxy to glue the wing on. I still use it for bashing my TC around, and the mirrors are still on there, in the same place they were when it was new. I haven't had to glue them on or anything. They hardly have a scratch on them. They are surprisingly VERY strong.

If you carefully place the mirrors, they should be protected from a roll. It'll roll on the roof of the beetle, and when you go skidding along the concrete, the roof will take the beeting leaving other places, like mirror territory, completely protected. :)

[eylemkaan]

if you can also imagine on the picture above, almost one inch away from the front shield and by the beginning of the light bucket... you know what I mean, round there. almost like 195X-196X beetles used to have. it'll be protected for sure. the mirrors are small (1/10) and those were the only mirros I couldn't find a fit for any of my drift bodies ;) but for this beetle man they are exact match per style!!!

for the antenna, the tube is not just clamped there. there is a tiny screw on the bottom of the tube so that is clamped under the rear wing thingy. very sturdy! and so is the flag.

[timie1]

WOW, this has been quiet in the last few days ;)

Kaan - I just bought the EZrun 35a esc with programming card from ecpower. I think including the programming card, and shipping, US$39 is pretty good.

If it's any good, I'll probably get another one, maybe the 60a one.

I hope it's as good as you say it is ;) :D

Any news on that friend of yours that has the MM as a comparison?
In a week or two, HOPEFULLY (if all the snow melts and the roads dry up) I can give you a subjective comparison.

[eylemkaan]

:D I was wondering as well! Good that you gave a sigh :)

Friend of mine is still waiting for his parcel. I think he'll get the Bl system before his car. That should take him almost two weeks to write that review. I'm sure you'll be even faster :confused:

You will not regret the moment Andrew, take my word for it. Yesterday night I tested the ramp in our backyard. Man awesome :) That's so much fun. And the system works like a clock, cool and fast.

I'm glad you bought the ESC, and I only hope that you've checked the max Kv that the 35A ESC can handle. Other than that you'll only love the system.

[timie1]

Yeah Kaan, I was debating whether to get the whole combo with the motor, but to test the quality of it I figured it's best to spend as little as possible. If it's any good, then I'll buy the 60a (possibly, maybe another 35a) with a motor but without the programming card seeing as I got it in this order. I will use it on my 3500Kv Velineon motor which currently is ESC-less. I was researching it quite a bit over the last week or so. It seems it's a great combination with the 3500 VXL/velineon motor.

I'll let you know :D

[eylemkaan]

Yeah man do so...cuz I really wonder. If it is ok, just imagine all the possibilities we have. There is also huge discount on Rcmart for BL motors. They are branded Yeah Racing, but they are obviously Ezrun/Hobbywing. You might also give their site a look.

Where's all the rest of the forum btw? National holiday or st? ;)

[Forgetful_Duck]

I found RCmart less value for money... alot less.... After u factor in postage cost and some lame irreversible bank charge they whip you. And of course, Exchange rate for me...

Anyhow my 3000mAh 30C lipo's arrived this morning. $55 AUD posted for Two!

They look pretty solid, hard metalic grey casing, prewired deans plug and balance plug.

Thing is it wouldnt fit nicely in my df02....
The chassis support on both edges prevent the battery from sitting flat, and hence the battery holder posts are too short. I've instead come up with a velcro Strap system which straps the battery down =)

Turned my car upside down and shook hard for about 10 times, nope.. battery aint falling out.

Pity my servo horn is STILL broken thanks to a T bone crash days back, and be about another week till my Rcmart order with 2 sets of parts (Q) arrive (servo horns)..... And 3Racing DF03 Shocks

[timie1]

Yeah you're right Forgetful Dukcy. RCMart has quite a good range of things, but their prices aren't all that great when you have to pay for shipping and the exchange rate. They are quite slow at processing orders, and when they respond, which takes a long time, you get a pidgeon english response. Usually I'm left more confused than I was before I asked the question.

However, once they ship the item, its does arrive quickly and I'm yet to be let down by them.

I wish they'd sort of compete with other ebay sellers and offer free shipping. I know you get nothing free, even the so called free shipping isn't free, it's all worked into the price, but I'd rather pay $50 for an item and get free shipping then pay $30 for the item and $20 for shipping. At least that way, if the item is crap and you get a refund, you get the $50 back, not the $30.

At any rate, RCMart is still one of my favourite sellers because they have a good range of all brands and departments (ie you can buy parts for cars, batteries, chargers, complete kits, chinese clones of cars and parts, plus also all the accessories - not many other sellers have such a range), and it's still cheaper than buying it from the US. The only things that aren't cheaper is when buying Traxxas or other US company things.

What lipos did you get? Where did you get them from? A link would be nice :) AU$55 seems quite good if the lipos are any good.

[Forgetful_Duck]

I got these, me and a friend splitting cause it comes as 2.
http://www.ecpower.com.hk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=269
The impression i have (havent used it yet) is build qaulity appears to be sound, and doesn't feel 'cheap'.

They are rated 30C burst and 25C constant discharge.

If they turn out well with the brushless, might get the 4300mAh ones. same price but for One instead of Two.

All depend show much run times i'll get from these...

Also love the Currency selection option ont he EC power webiste. If you chekc out with a certain currency u get charged AS it SAYS, no dodgy background conversion which takes a few extra bucks from u or stupid irriversible bank charges RCmart seems to give you..

That being said yes RCmart has a HUGE range of goods and i will continue to shop there because of that, but i will restrict myself to making larger orders instead of just 1 thing or so simply because the handling, postage, cost is crazy.
Escpecially when ur package arrives and it reads $60 HKD paid for postage (about $10 AUD) when i've actually given them $20 USD as 'Postage' + a few bucks in bank charges???

[timie1]

Escpecially when ur package arrives and it reads $60 HKD paid for postage (about $10 AUD) when i've actually given them $20 USD as 'Postage' + a few bucks in bank charges???

Yeah, that is annoying. RCMart isn't the only place that does that though.

[eylemkaan]

guys guys guys, remember I'm the "ebay" guy not rcmart. I only pointed out on will that there's some sort of Chinese New Year discount especially on BL motors and sort of stuff...
nevertheless, shipment... yeah most of the time they suck, response to emails... 100% suckability :) so go for ebay! is thew motto for me :rolleyes:

[timie1]

But with regards to ebay, some sellers like Dinball, charge more for some things from their ebay store then they do through their own stores, RcMart.

Ebay has huge fees, and most sellers just charge more for the item to build the fees in. I was thinking about selling some stuff on feebay, then I looked at the fees they charge...........bugger that!!!
I just advertised it locally for free on another online site. It sold........eventually. But I got good money for it and I paid not one cent in fees.

OOOOh, Chinese new year sale on brushless stuff!!!!!! Where where where where where????

[eylemkaan]

man I said ...rcmart has the Chinese new year sale. just check :)

[timie1]

I don't mean to be a killjoy...but there are no "specials" on at RCmart.
It's just their normal pricing, or at least their brushless combos are their normal pricing for the last month or two :)

With shipping as extra, it's more expensive than their competition :D

Hey Kaan, did you put the 4mm bullet plugs on your EZrun setup? Or did you stick to the "whatever size they are" plugs that come with it?

[eylemkaan]

The already come with the 4mm bullet plugs. Included in the pack.

Did you really check the site? I've seen 9-12T motors for 29$?!?

[timie1]

Of course I checked the site!!!!!!!! :)

Ok, I didn't see THAT though, cos I was looking at the combos - my bad.

Just look at this though:

Sub-Total: USD$29.90
AIR (7 to 16 days)>>HK To CA 1 x 385g Shipping:+Register:+Handling: USD$10.06
non-refundable bank charge: USD$1.70
Total: USD$41.66

With all RCMarts charges, suddenly it's no bargain. You can get that same motor on ebay for 36.99 including postage.

That is exactly what Forgetful duck was talking about. With the charges and shipping, it's no bargain. THEN when you get it you see the actual cost of shipping equate to about half what you paid, you then feel ripped off.

BTW - that was for an exact quote on the 12t yeah racing brushless motor on "sale" for 29.99.

[eylemkaan]

ok ok I was just happy with the discount. I never bought anything from rcmart with the exact same reasons... and do not need a motor anyhow haha

[timie1]

LOL :D

You know that dumb saying, "I can't afford NOT to"? It's such a stupid saying really. I've looked at things like that RCmart sale and thought, "wow, that's cheap. Maybe I should buy it just cos it's cheap". Then I thought about it, it's only a bargain if you actually need it or are looking for it. If you don't need it, why buy it just because it's cheap? ;)

So I know what you mean, you don't need a motor anyhow, so doesn't matter HOW cheap it is - it's still money spent for no reason:roll2:

[eylemkaan]

yepp and let's not forget you don't have to be rich to be clever ;)

[timie1]

Kaan and everybody else, do you use those lipo charging bags when charging your lipos?

[eylemkaan]

I never did, and never actually had a problem since I'm using the right equipment.

BUT I strongly believe it is a must for everyone using LIPOs. It doesn't have to happen before you buy that bag, it's on my priority purchases list.

[Forgetful_Duck]

I bought one of those Lipo bags when i got the Lipo batteries from ECpower.

I Doubt i'll use it much, I'll only use it if i leave the house and still charging, but normally the charger is only a few meters from me by my side so... yeh i don't think i'll be hassled.

Also got it because i figured if i take my gear down to a track, people around me would probably want me to use the lipo bag, just for everyone's saftey as a precaution.

[eylemkaan]

...and guys! the LED system arrived. I wish I had the opportunity to take a video, but sorry you have to live up to the pictures. you can also see the mirror set I was talking a while ago. latest thurs I hope my alu parts will arrive. the weekend will be a bash I'm sure :)

Front (lights 50% bright, turns 100% when you push the gas)
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/5722/s6303713fs4.jpg

Back (lights 50% bright, turns 100% when you push the brakes)
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/7484/s6303711kr6.jpg

Signals (only lit/blink when you Left turn or Right turn)
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/7712/s6303716sq0.jpg
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/7101/s6303712yy0.jpg

The system, as installed
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/7962/s6303718vm6.jpg

... sure will have some cable management at the end, but not now. I'm just spoiled at the moment ;)

[JDT]

nice, I usually go to a parking garage is I want to bash at night but this would allow at least light offroad driving to

[eylemkaan]

yeah man, I've tried it now tonight deep dark in our parking lot! IT IS SOME LIGHT SET, really bright as the sun, even those bloody 3mm orange signal LEDs are bright :roll2:
loved it!

[timie1]

That's looking really good Kaan. You've created the Starship Enterprise with all those flashing lights.

Are you running two lipos in your car? Or is that a saddle pack?

[eylemkaan]

yepp that is a saddle pack left over from my ol racing setup. 4200 mah, 25/35C, 7.4V. one of my favourite batteries I can say ;)

starship enterprise HAHA, I'm old school drifter so you know how it goes. the car should look good before it drives good.

[timie1]

I'm confused about lipos. Ufffff, it's just too many options.

I'm looking at the various chinese ones on feebay. The ECPower ones look to be like Enegyec Lipos. Now, they are 7.4v 3000mah 25C constant 30C burst. They weigh an extra 100g over the equivalent spec maxamps packs. Actually the maxamps are 3100mah, but they weigh a lot less.
I notice the Chinese sites never actually say "2s1p" or anything, so I'm thinking it's not technically just 2 cells. Probably 4s of weak or pathetic mah wired up to be equal to a proper 2s. If so, wouldn't this make it more difficult charging them, or balancing them? You'd have to balance it as a 4s?
They also have other lipos on their site which are 11.1v and up, but all them are rated only for 15C. This makes me think the actual cells are only 15C that they use for the "30C" 7.4V packs, and that's why they weigh nearly double Maxamps, ie use double the cells. Does my wording make sense?

I'm a lipo newb, as you can tell. Anything else about RC I understand quite well, I think, but not lipo. :D

Would 3000mah 25C/30C even be enough for a standard 5700kv MM setup?

[timie1]

Kaan, how much extra weight are you lugging around with all the LED's and the wiring? That is why I've never done the LED thing, I like to keep weight down. ;)

Yeah I know why you put all the LED's in there, you drifters :D You need neons under the chassis next!!!!!

[eylemkaan]

Hey Andrew, I would recommend that you go for value for money brands. Workz is one of them, look around at ebay.

I always go for in between articles (golden hits > shiny and crisp > value for money > my preference > risky cheap > b*llsh*t > cr*p :D thaz how I rank them). In between brands are ECPower (never had problems so far, but you may be right they may be using false branding on C values), GadgetWorldExpress (search for these guys in ebay, they have a store, guy is Chinese, his name is Eric good customer relations there).

I would strongly recommend NOT TO GO below these, like Mystery, etc... Those brands are only risks that you take. They can be cheap, very cheap, but I would never risk my car, my charger, my setup, etc with them.

I hope I could be of help.

One last answer to your lipo questions: go for the ECPower 3000 mah 25/35C, and pick up one 4000 mah 15C as a spare you know. That is my combination. One main battery, and one spare (just in case). My main is a 4200 25/35C and the spare is a 4000 15.

For weight issues, you shall never bother once you're transferring from NiMh to LiPo... You'll weigh app 90-150 gr less.

When it comes to the LED issue: the whole system including all the hot glue I use weighs around say what 30-40 gr. Not an issue! My LiPo is way lighter than any NiMh (same story again but...). But I rarely race, it's more drifting onroad, and bash/jump offroad. Still though even if I was racing I would use the lights and rather drill holes on the bottom of my chassis to get rid of dead weight (racing YES, bashing NO option).

Just remember my video, recall I was only 60% at gas, and check the speed at that setup. I think it is quite a fast setup still.

Many things to consider I know, but you are more than experienced to pick up the right setup for your preference. :teacher:

[eylemkaan]

...and by the way: I'm looking for possibilities to contact a new supplier (www.chargery.com). I've somehow found their sites and the products look solid, all technical data seems very bright, but they don't have the p-tags and sales conditions. I've already sent them an inquiry, I'll let you know if they knock the door.

[JDT]

true rc has a promising looking new 5000 hardcase for $75

http://home.comcast.net/%7Etruerc/ready_pack/ready_packs.htm

lots of other lipos to just make sure you watch the overall dimensions as he sells some to big for the df 02
I ran the mm 5700 and buggy dirt hawgs alot with a 15c 4000 pack, it was rated for 60 continuos and 90 burst, it never had any problems, it was as a 2s2p, four 2000 mah cells, by doubling the s part you increase to 4000 mah by doubling the p part you increase from 30 amp continuos to 60.

[Forgetful_Duck]

Yeh the ECpower hard case packs are 4 cells, 2S1P.

So i think it would be Two 3.7V 1500mah cells in series, and also another, of the same thing wired in parrallel?

[timie1]

Yeh the ECpower hard case packs are 4 cells, 2S1P.

So i think it would be Two 3.7V 1500mah cells in series, and also another, of the same thing wired in parrallel?

Thanks for confirming that.
This is where I have my question............balancing...........you'd need to balance each cell, so you'd have to balance it as a 4 cell pack? And charge it as a 2 cell pack?

I think it would be far more reliable just getting a proper 2 cell pack.

I had a thought, all the Chinese ones seem to come in a hardcase.....it's almost as if they are trying to hide something, like it's really 4 weak cells joined at the hip to trick people into thinking you're getting a 2 cell pack. The more expensive packs, ie Maxamps, are available with just a shrink wrapping over them. You can clearly see the 2 cells. There is nothing to hide.
Good theory????

[eylemkaan]

Hey Andrew,

I wouldn't bet on your theory:

- All the Chinese don't come in hardcases, but only lately they are shifting to hardcases,
- It is an obvious market trend to have hardcases, since faster you go, harder you hit or harder you bash. And lipos -quite unlikely to nimhs- they actually start immediate chemical reaction if they get bruised.

Now take it from this side: IMO it should be mandatory to have only hardcase in lipos, and believe me any shiny brand has them hardcased.

If anyone, Chinese, American, Japanese, German, anyone tries to hide something, they simply do. And noone can stop this. The guy is the manufacturer, you are the end user, how can you know who is hiding what?

That is why either trust in reviews, or positive ebay feedbacks
OR
pay more and buy from well known brand names
OR
have an electrician friend who can actually measure the values (nimh, C, etc)

[eylemkaan]

Front shock and new damper
http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq338/eylemkaan/Plasma%20Edge/S6303723.jpg

Rear shock
http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq338/eylemkaan/Plasma%20Edge/S6303724.jpg

[JDT]

what brand are those shock towers?

[timie1]

Hahaha, Kaan,,,,,,,yeah yeah I know :D
I would MUCH rather have a hardcase lipo too. I'm just simply saying that with their lack of defining 2s1p or 2s or anything, AND the hardcase not being able to see each cell - then surely they are hiding things.
Simply stating a voltage, mah, and C rating is not clearly labelling the battery, so short of pulling it apart you'd never really know what was in it.

If on the other hand somebody made a clear hardcase - that would be ideal. You could see each cell, and you could see if it's puffing, or otherwise having problems.

Anyhow, I'm not going to buy any lipos for a while. I would need a new charger as well, and I get enough fun from my good nimh. Until they die, then I won't shell out anything for lipos :)

Are those Yeah Racing shock towers? IF they are, be very careful. Don't roll your car, and don't let the car land on it's body upside down. Also, while it's in one piece, I would HIGHLY recommend you get rid of the Chinese screws and put some good Tamiya screws in their place. Once the screw breaks in there you'll never get it out. And it WILL BREAK after a roll!!!

We need more videos of your car!!!!!!!!!!!!
Plus a report on how well those shocks work!!!! :D

[eylemkaan]

Shock towers are Yeah racing

[eylemkaan]

The rear shocks are great, the fronts we'll learn this weekend ;)
Videos will surely follow :D

[JDT]

that looks alot better than the yeah rear tower I had in the past, much thicker looking, good to know the fronts are shipping the second design that is solid instead of slotted with the lightening holes in it.

[timie1]

Kaan - just in case you missed it in my last post, regarding the Yeah Racing towers:

I would highly recommend you get rid of the Chinese screws and put some good Tamiya screws in their place. Once the screw breaks in there you'll never get it out so you'll be throwing the whole tower away. And it WILL BREAK after a roll!!

I speak from experience from those exact same towers.

The towers themselves are fine quality wise, it's just the screws that are junk.

[Forgetful_Duck]

I also have Front and rear yeah racign shocks, well HAD yeah racing shocks.

I did a few rolls at a carpet track, and then i noticed my car was limped to one side...

One of my fronts had come off! the piston end was no longer attached (screwed into) the black plastic part which was still attached with a screw to the suspension arm.

The thread was just worn out, it would come off on big jumps or rolls, but i couldn't pull it out by hand, still it was coming off.

Then i had a crash, into a suddenly stationary nitro buggy, bent the front shock tower and the Screw holding that loose front shock.
I had to get pliers to rebend the screw to take it out. But that was it, can't be reused.

Now i'm on stock plastic shock tower and stock fronts, waiting for 3racing df03 shocks. heard they much much better....

But definitely sticking to plastic shock tower now.

If you read my review on rcmart for those yeah racing Silver 70mm aluminium dampers, basically i said, u get what u pay for... AVOID!

[JDT]

the duratrax evader shocks are hard to beat for the cost, I have been using them for a long time with zero problems, easy to get rebuild parts for to.

[Forgetful_Duck]

Question; anyone hear have any experience in attaching camera's to their model cars?

Looking to put a video recorder to the buggy, see what it looks like at that ground level when tis running, especially off road chase =)

Quesiton is, what Type of camera is more suited to the task? Old small hand held? expensive though..., old mobile phone strappped on / inside the car?

Dunno where to begin....

[eylemkaan]

Question; anyone hear have any experience in attaching camera's to their model cars?
Dunno where to begin....

I use my friends or my family to shoot my videos :D

Well frankly I only watched some from youtube, and donno, to me it looks quite shaky, blurry and all.

[Forgetful_Duck]

I saw this one video, where this guy Mounted a nice camera usign an actual mount, screwed onto the front bumper holes of a truggy i think. And it was a brushless set up, the camera was FACING the car, so u can always see it.

Anyhow it looked so awesome, when the car sped up the tires all inflated heaps! and u could see all the movements of the suspension action, and especially when he turned around etc.

[eylemkaan]

well sounds great and very exciting. let us know with a video when you are done with the project.
I'll fool around for information, pictures, anything that can cater?

[Forgetful_Duck]

Mounting a camera in such a position that it's facing the car will be very hard, doubtful it would be possible, and not worth it unelss the camera was good.

My mate has a casio Exilim F1 pro i think, its the High speed 300+ frame per second video camera. Its a $1000 camera....

it's aweosme, we're gonna go out and take some shots with it while dirt bashing, its also the same camera tamiya uses's in its own slow motion video's if u go to youtube, Tamiya INC user name, serach it, watch them! so awesome.

[JDT]

I got a youtube account but never really figured out how to post a video, me and my bashing buddies have talked about trying to make a video but when it comes down to it we would all rather just bash, besides if there was proof my df 02 can go 70 mph I might not be able to be any more jato lovers to race me for $50 lol.

[eylemkaan]

:) :) :)

[timie1]

I have attached a camera to the car. It's great fun, although worrying about the camera does tend to take the fun away. It was just a Fujifilm finepix digital camera that can only record 1 minute clips, but it still cost quite a bit of money in it's day so I didn't exactly want to ruin it.

This is it http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=3kSvKsLRig8

I found it is much easier attaching the camera without the body because then theres things to attach it to.

I just used a roll of tape and wrapped tape around the car and camera. I use some double sided tape between the camera and car to help absorb some vibration.

It was actually very easy and very secure. Still though, there were speed bumps all over the place in this video, that's what the random bumps are. I didn't want to flip the car, or overdo any jumps. Despite this, the camera stayed secure through numerous movies.

If you do mount the camera on there, don't mount it on the front of the car if you plan to get any air, or go over any jump. The car is very sensitive to weight imbalances. I put a handheld GPS on one of my cars, and just that weight, which is less than most cameras, REALLY severely affected the handling. It was on my touring car, so I never got air with it. But I mean severely screwed up. I couldn't even apply any brake, it just sent it spinning into a series of 360° spins.
The trick is to make sure you get the camera, or gps, as close to the COG as possible. Off to any side, front or back, left or right, and it'll be very undriveable, certainly if you do an offroad chase.

[eylemkaan]

Hey Andrew, you are right again :) the screws are screwed! No damages but they loosen themselves man. Unbelievable... Most probably I'll turn back to the stock shock damper on the rear, but will keep the front running.

[timie1]

Kaan, what about if you put thread lock on them?

If they don't break, or strip the thread, or bur the edges beyond recognition, then I'm sure you could make do with them if you can keep them tight.

It really is a puzzling question though, why can't the Chinese make decent screws? There's enough people over there, they obviously know how to screw :D Now just make some decent ones;)

[eylemkaan]

Man, that was funny ;) but hell yes you are right. I'll try threadlock tomorrow. Gotta go ed now, thanks for the midnite laugh.

[Forgetful_Duck]

My RCmart order arrived.. finally! Servo Horn spare parts!!!!!
Also got my 3Racing shocks (DB01) even though i ordred the DF03 ones... same thing i guess lol.

First impression... ohhhhhh neat packaging... small plastic box all 4 dampers visible and a little documentation manual included.

Compared to yeah Racing shocks which arrived in a plastic bag stabled at the top with no documentaiton or manuals etc, the 3racing shocks set doesn't even feel 1/10th the cheapiness i felt when i got my yeah racing ones.

Anyhow i took out the shocks and they come prefilled with oil, though not perfectly filled, had lots of air bubbles inside it, so i refilled them all, 50wt for the rears and standard tamiya Light Oil in the fronts. very nice.

The build qaulity is a notch up from yeah Racing, and the black springs are quite nice. What's DEFINITELY better than YR dampers, is the way these are mounted on.

For the bottom socket its just a snap on standard 5mm brass ball you use for the stock shocks well.
The top mount is slightly different. Basically its 2 pieces, a long grub screw and a 4.5mm ball you snap onto the top of ur damper.

Beats me why they didn't just drill the hole to just fit the stock tamiya brass 5mm balls like they did for the bottom mounts... Still everything is nice and secure, even includes the hex screw key u need.

As for performance...?
DAMP! not more springiness. They are MORE damped than the year racing ones, and even those are alot more damped than the Stock ones.

An issue i did find was that even though mounting the rears to give as much ride height as possible, I lost about 4mm of ground clearance from the back...
upon further inspection it was clear that the bottom snap on plastic socket was about 5mm shorter than the standard tamiya one.
So i got took those off and put on the stock tamiya sockets, the screw thread was a perfect match, and i tightened them nicely.

So far very pleased with the purchase. Whizzing around my front drive way over a few bumps i can say handling has improved! Car seems less 'jumpy'.

Anyhow, question;
Understeer, lots of it on the DF02, what can i do to reduce some of this?
Would puttin more grip in the front in the form of namely switching to wider wheels and tyres help much?
How about getting adjustable toe in rods to replace the top front arms so i can put a bit of negative camber on the fronts?

[timie1]

That's great news about the 3racing shocks. Hopefully they hold up well.

About your understeer issues, tires are always the first thing you should change. About 90% of a setup is in the tires.

After tires, there are many things you can change. Have a look at this,

BUGGY SETUP GUIDE
www.acliparthistory.com/assets/files/offroad.pdf

There`s a lot to read through, but it`s very informative. I downloaded the file ages ago, but the website is now gone. It`s a good thing I didn`t get rid of the file.

Obviously you won`t be able to adjust all that on the DF02, but much of it will apply.

[eylemkaan]

great beginners' document, loved it. thanks Andrew.

... and yes threadlocking works, I used it before, so why not give it a try again?

one more thing today I smashed the bugger to a sidewalk and it ripped the tray where the ESC and receiver pack was standing. I took them to their alternative place. so anybody as careless as I am, please refer to "other ESC and receiver" part in the manual for placement of these two. they are a lot safer there.

and a question. as I get more and more guts while driving my bruggy, I push the throttle a lot more in full, everytime the bruggy gives me quite a wheelie action. which is fun, on the grass, which is terrible on the pavement or dust. cause it sometimes leads to hoppala action :D meaning I see my car tumbling in high speed, and even once scratching over the roof top for at least 15 m.s. to cut it short, anyone used a wheelie, how, did it work, any pictures, videos? I'm quite a lot interested...

[timie1]

No probs for that setup guide :)

That sounds like "fun" Kaan :D
I've never been able to get my Gravel Hound to wheelie, ever. I have wheelied my 2wd buggy a lot, and also my emaxx, but NEVER the gravel hound.
I'm blaming your large tires and their grip.
If you lower the COG it should really help out.
I'm also a great believer in wheelie bars. It works really well on my emaxx, stopping it's wheelie from resulting in sliding on it's roof every time. As far as I'm aware, there is no such device in existence for the DF02 though. You will have to get creative and modify some other one, or build one. That WILL solve your problems without doing anything else to the setup.
Probably this RC10T4 wheelie bar would easily modify http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachments/electric-off-road/297031d1198610914-need-wheelie-bar-ft-t4-wheely-bar.jpg and fit, in place of that plastic guard over the back diff.

[eylemkaan]

man don't blame it on my wheels. blame it on the ezrun + 25C lipo. you're gonna go wheelie sooner or later. your ESC is on the way right? time to go for lipo now :D

[timie1]

LOL

Yes the ESC is on the way, hopefully. I haven't got an email from ECPower saying they sent it, and their website says it's "delivered" in the status. I presume that means they have taken it to the post office.

Sorry to say this, but it IS the big wheels :) Not that that's a bad thing.

Remember, I already have a Mamba Max with 2 different motors which I usually run with 8 cells (5700kv and VXL 3500kv), and I can get both motors to wheelie my other cars on demand, with just GOOD nimh. It's just the low stock COG of the gravel hound, and the relatively small wheels, and 4wd, means it is a lot harder to wheelie.
But with big wheels, and high COG as a result, it's just like driving a monster truck or stadium truck, which wheelies easily.

To tell you the truth, I'd actually like to try A123 cells. I like how they are really robust, far more so than lipo. The only thing is, they cost more, the voltage isn't as high, and they are bigger and heavier for the same sort of capacity. But from what I've seen, the A123 cells REALLY go for it, and thrive on being pushed to their limits.

[eylemkaan]

oh man, you're gonna make me take those tires off and wheelie with the stock tires at the end :D you could be right I'm too new for offroad anyways.

hey Andrew, what do you think of this one. it is actually for a 1/18 but?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Losi-Mini-LST-silver-aluminum-wheelie-bar-MLT1333M08_W0QQitemZ290286917854QQcmdZViewItemQQpt ZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item29028691 7854&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A3%7C65%3A15%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

[JDT]

Anyhow, question;
Understeer, lots of it on the DF02, what can i do to reduce some of this?
Would puttin more grip in the front in the form of namely switching to wider wheels and tyres help much?
How about getting adjustable toe in rods to replace the top front arms so i can put a bit of negative camber on the fronts?

yes and yes, even the smaller sized buggy dirt hawgs provide enough grip to traction roll the car on pavement, the four inch tall tires have so much sidewall flex if your good you can traction roll in into the air and land it on its wheels and keep going, the bigger tires are only worse
you actually need to replace the front upper arms and the steering sector rods(from the knuckle to the steering bellcrank) so you can adjust the camber as well as the toe, I run alot more toe in with the five in tall mashers than I do with the 4 inch tall dirt hawgs/works, it remains darty but closer to the edge of out of control
remember you can do alot with shock setup, fast street running lends itself to 50 or 60 weight considering on a normal day my df 02 is sporting 20 weight now that I got big tires and plenty of ground clearance.

There is nothing wrong with wheelies, I kinda like the one wheel wheelies I can get from the spool, usually it leads to a big wreck but sometimes its a beautiful thing to watch, I remember the first time I borrowed a buddies 3s for the mm xl3100 setup, with the mashers I was able to go pretty much everywhere my buddies savages, e and t maxxes could but the best part was pulling up next to a savage on the gravel road, he was at max speed and I simply let off for a half a second then mashed it, 35-40 or so mph wheelie as I pulled away, pricesless. I think the car don't weight enough sometimes as my mt2 with the mashers will do a standing start flip from full throttle with that setup but the df 02 either burns all four and pulls away or wheelies onto its lid, I have done my mt2 like 7 times in a row one day just for fun, probably a total of 100 times, never have been able to do the df 02

[eylemkaan]

guys guys.. .you all deserve a wheelie action video this weekend. let's hope the weather is good enough and I have time :)

[timie1]

I think that mini LST wheelie bar may be a bit small.

I would stick with a 1/10 size bar. There are a few places that make them, but some are better than others.

I like the Traxxas ones because they are adjustable. This is a good thing because sometimes you want to show off, so you adjust the bar so you can do nice 60° wheelies. This will make the car hop around though and likely end up on one wheel bouncing rapidly from side to side, like JDT said, but if you can pull it off it really is cool to watch. Other times when you wanna just drive, you lower the bar and the front wheels only just come up, allowing you to put more power onto the road. It doesn't look as impressive, but it's more practical.

For ideas on how to mount the bar, or even make one, which I don't think would be hard with a piece of aluminium and two small wheels - a planes landing gear wheels would be ideal - look at this photo http://www.aarnold.com/Traxxas/Stampede_Pics/Skimountdetail8.jpg

Online you can see movies of people showing off and they get the car or truck up to like a 80° angle. I don't think this shows power. If you think about it, if you can hold a wheelie at 45°, that shows power. If you can hold a wheelie at 80°, all it shows is you've managed to shift the weight distribution and now you're relying on gravity to hold it there, not traction and power. The most commanding display of power is to pull a little wheelie, when gravity is working against the angle of the chassis but power alone is defying gravity.

But physics lesson aside, it's still amazing to watch a huge big long wheelie at 80° :D

[JDT]

make sure and link it here and post it on youtube, I don't think there is a single video of a big tired df 02 on there.

[timie1]

YAY More videos!!!!!! popcorn

Make sure you get good footage of full throttle this time :D

I would take some of my own videos, but the temperature has dropped again, it's now -23C and the roads are covered in ridges of ice about 6 inches deep. It's like driving over solid rocks. I need a rock crawler with chains on the wheels!

Also, just try your stock wheels - I guarantee the wheelies will stop.

[eylemkaan]

make sure and link it here and post it on youtube, I don't think there is a single video of a big tired df 02 on there.

com'on man, I've already posted one funny speed test http://www.vimeo.com/2835093

[eylemkaan]

YAY More videos!!!!!! popcorn

Make sure you get good footage of full throttle this time :D

Also, just try your stock wheels - I guarantee the wheelies will stop.

Stock wheel will have to wait. I'm still enjoying the Slash tires very much. But time will take stock into consideration for sure :cool:

For the full throttle video, man... the b-st-rd is so fast I really need a huge track or st like that. otherwise it'll only be a short distance full throttle again. but will try my best, no worries!

who doesn't want to show off with his DF-02 anyways :D

[JDT]

if I had half a skill I would load that to youtube so others can see, I have linked that 3s 6900 mm video rumerous times when guys that don't know there butt from a whole in the ground start saying the df 02 has no slipper and can't handle brushless

[eylemkaan]

Hey JDT every car sure can handle BL. You just need to know the basics and of course balance the gear with the output of your system. That should be and basically it.
Nevermind the big mouths, keep on pushing your throttle man! I enjoy DF02 BL utmost ;)
Thanks for all the info you guys share...
Gotta go to bed, mr.sandman's here. 2 am now!

[timie1]

Hey Kaan, if you're still awake, do you want me to post that video of yours on youtube?

JDT - It's really easy. All you need to be is a member of it, then go to the upload button and from there it's really self explanatory.

[eylemkaan]

yeah please do that, bcoz that's from a friend's cam and I don't have another copy of it. you can even use my username to upload them to my account. I'll PM you :)

[timie1]

Oh ok, I was going to ask you to send the movie file to me if you wanted it put on.

I'll have to hopefully download it from your vimeo page. I'll work on that tomorrow, it's bed time now though.

Hey, ECpower have updated their site and got rid of a few bugs, but more importantly they now have proper lipos. A PROPER 2s 4300mah 30/25C lipo for $40.
They actually state that it is 2 cells. They must have been reading my complaints :P ;) They have even now got their own A123 packs for a good price and decent capacity.:winner: Only problem, they're sold out!!!!

[wastingmoney]

Hey Timie1 you can ge A123 batteries from Dewalt 36 and 28 volt packs. I just built my first battery from cells that came from a 28v pack that was bought on e-bay. It's a 3s pack that fits in the compartment with only a little Dremal work. None of the pre-made packs from A123 will fit without doing some sort of modifing. Their 3s1p packs come in the form of a triangle that won't allow the use of the battery strap, and the 2s2p packs would force you to remove the screws that hold the shaft cover on. The 2s1p pack would fit with only putting a little spacer under the battery post to allow for the extra thickness of these cells, which would have to be done for any flat pack with a123 cells. My custom 3s1p pack puts 2 cells on the side of the compartment with the third cell sitting next to the other ones between the middle and rear screw mounts for the shaft cover. I had to grind a little off those three "ribs" that are between those two points, but I'm sure it didn't affect the strenght of the chassis at all.

The battery only has 2300mah, but you can charge them at 10 amps without damaging the cells. The Hypersonic charger that I use will charge them in about 12-13 minutes. I made two packs from the Dewalt battery so I can run non stop.

Still waiting on all my other parts to get here. I ordered a 13t ezrun brushless system to use with these batteries. I have heard that a low kv motor/high voltage will heat up less than a high kv/low voltage set-up will.

Other parts still yet to arrive are diff cups to use with the cvd's that I took out of my df03. Plus a 16t and 18t pinion gears, 17mm wheel adaptors and Proline Badland tires. I decided to go with the 1/8 scale buggy tires after all. After I found out that the ezrun motor was a 380 can, I would lower the rotating mass to make it easier on it. Badlands are supposed to be 4.6" tall so lots of ground clearance.

This is my winter project, so I'm in no hurry to complete it. For now I'm just tinkering with it as parts come in. I would like to see some better pictures of JDT's arm braces that he made, the ones on page 113 are too dark to clearly see much. Can you help everybody(me) out with that JDT?

I noticed that everybody was sharing a little about themselves, so here goes: 39 years old in two weeks, father of three boys(8,10 and 13) and my name is Greg. Yes my boys are into rc also, they have Stampedes and Rustlers.

[timie1]

Welcome to the forums Wastingmoney. :D

Yeah, you're quite right. That is one of the main drawbacks with all the A123 packs. I don't want to dremel away or modify anything. I have too many cars to dremel, and it just seems stupid doing it. Lipo is probably the much better option for me.

To make an A123 pack with respectabe capacity and voltage, it's going to need 6 cells. That's the whole 28V DeWalt battery used up and then some. It probably still wouldn't perform better than a lipo when you consider the weight.

Thanks for pointing those issues out to me, you convinced me to go lipo :D

Where did you hear a low kv motor/high voltage will heat up less than a high kv/low voltage? That seems to be the exact opposite of common knowledge.
As long as the ESC and motor can take the voltage, there is no way that a low voltage setup would be cooler. More voltage would equal less current for any given power. Current is what heats up electronics.
If you gear correctly, running higher voltage is more efficient. It's the laws of electricity, ie Ohm's Law!!!! All formulas are listed here, plus calculators.
http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/page2.asp

I'm guessing if whoever told you that really did experience overheating, then they didn't know how to set it up and consequently didn't change the gearing accordingly which would have drawn a LOT more amps.
Whenever more voltage is added you have to gear down. Doing so will up the efficiency and lower temps but still make more speed.

In 1/8 scale nitro conversions, very low Kv motors and high voltage is used. This combination is best for lower temps and more power.

You can't defy physics!!!! :D

[JDT]

here are some more hinge pin brace pics, the view from overhead

[JDT]

that is looking at the L shaped towards you, this piece has been run both ways, I like the trimmed down version with the L towards the front filling that space in the bumper there, you can tell this one has had some impacts as its a little wavy aver a year of service, here is a right upper view hopefully

[JDT]

now the bottom, you can see I have front and back here, some guys don't want to trim the arms down to run the one on the backside of the arm, the arms are incredible so I didn't mind shaving off a bit with a hand file so they would operate freely with the metal behind them, they are tapped for the 4-40 standard stainless steel bolts I run so I get the metal as well as the plastic of the chassis, some only run a front one as you can go all the way into the chassis with a bolt to help stabalize the rear side of the front arm, boy thats a mouthful, bakabaka had figured out years ago simply by going all the way through the arm into the chassis with a bolt helped keep the chassis together, I have had dozens of cars with adjustable hinge pin geometry so I simply applied the redneck mentality to thin aluminum I could munipulate with hand tools as they were made pre dremel, the bumper is going to stick up a bit, with one of the front only you can bend the bumper enought to get it back down but I was not worried about loosing 2-3 mm for the bumper thickness

[JDT]

here is without the bumper, you can see where I cut an old bumper off and put it in the slot and the new bumper simple rides over the top of it and the hpb

[JDT]

got the dreaded camera full message before I got the rear pics but you should hopefully be able to visualize a little better with these pics. At least run a bolt all the way through into the chassis front and rear to help keep the arms on, for $4 and a little time you could do this to, well if you needed a bumper kit thats another $5 but you could cut your current and have shinny new bumpers front and rear lol, bad optical illusion in that pic, almost makes it look like the front side of the chassis is bent but its not there if the overhead

almost forgot you can see here the front side is drilled and tapped for the bumper bolts into them two holes

ford rules lol

[JDT]

I did forget one thing Greg, I always describe the brushless truggy version of the df 02 as the 4wd stampede we all wanted 10 years ago, get ready to put a whoopin on the kids 2wd trucks

[eylemkaan]

now look what my 8 yo daughter has added as a "final touch"

man, what a basher :)

http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq338/eylemkaan/Plasma%20Edge/S6303767.jpg

[eylemkaan]

QQ: what methods do you use to reinforce your body shells?

[timie1]

I don't use anything. Never have!!!

What part of yours are you concerned about, Kaan?

[eylemkaan]

the corner edges after the fenders. was it clear? ow I'll send a pic.

btw give me 5 mins and I'll be sending youtube link for the video in vimeo. I' found a way to download from vimeo :)

[eylemkaan]

ok... here's the video (btw it looks very sh*tty?, somehow the quality dropped dramatically):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lu8-0a6P48E

and here's the parts that I'm concerned about:
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/3285/adsztf3.png

[timie1]

Ok cool.

The only precautionary measurement I've taken for body "reinforcement" is to smooth out every body cut by sanding the edge with a block of sandpaper covered wood, or a dremel sanding drum. I learnt this the hard way after my first body split easily.

Doing this, I've not had any cracks or splits. However, it's probably not the sort of reinforcement you had in mind:p

Sometimes I put electrical insulating tape on the inside of the body, but that's just to protect the paint from rubbing off where the body is too close to something, like the RX.

[eylemkaan]

yepp sanding is standard for me coming from body detailing drift shell business.

what I need is something for really "reinforcing". I think I'm gonna go for nylon sheet + hotglueing. I used to use it for small cracks for onroads. for heavy cracks or reinforcement needs I use lexan + hotglue.

you could easily see lexan + hot glue usage on yhe pix where I show the wiring of the LED system... couple of pages ago.

[timie1]

In that diagram, are the round bits the wheel cutouts and this is looking at it from the side? Or is that a plan diagram looking from the top?

Yeah youtube does decrease the quality of movies. It's not too bad though.

[timie1]

Hang on, give me a few min. I'm gonna watch a show that was on TV the other week. They had a tip for reinforcing and I remember thinking "that's a good idea".

I'll report back in 10 min.

[wastingmoney]

timie1- Are we talking about the same thing? 2500kv motor @10volts runs cooler than a 5000kv motor @5volts. Both turn 25,000 rpm's but the 2500kv set-up stays cooler right?

kaan- That sticker completed your body! Funny thing about Sponge Bob is my 8 year old just decided last week he was "too big" for his Sponge Bob sheets on his bed. Off to Goodwill with them.

JDT- Thanks for taking the time to get those pictures. Makes more sense now, I thought that you wre still using the u-shaped rod for the arms. Yes I hope the df02 will be a durable as our Traxxas trucks. The kids seem to turn everything into a demolition derby when they drive them.

[eylemkaan]

hey wastingmoney, good to hear that :) we're covered all around with winx stickers all over. so for me it's great to have SBSP! the other option could've been barbie!!! imagine me bashing with a barbie sittin'on top of my bonnet haha

hey andrew, great. and let me "reinforce" your vision with the photos by then :D

rear:
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/2289/s6303769nc2.jpg
front:
http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/5807/s6303768ho9.jpg

[timie1]

Wastingmoney - Yes we probably are talking about the same thing :) Just remember, the higher KV motor is a lower turn, the lower kv motor is a higher turn. So yes, in your example the 2500kv motor will run a lot cooler. Even running the 5000kv motor with 10 volts will run cooler than if you ran it with 5 volts.

Kaan - On the show they use firbreglass tape like this http://cgi.ebay.ie/50-M-FIBREGLASS-MESH-FIBER-FIBRE-GLASS-TAPE_W0QQitemZ270129331682QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_De faultDomain_3?hash=item270129331682&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1298|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18 and stick it to the lexan you want to reinforce. Then they use some Shoe Goo glue http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shoe_Goo and spread a glob on your finger, and run your finger over the tape, like caulking tiles. The glue dries to be flexible but stiff. I can't think of anything wrong with this technique.

What I might do is record each show and put them on youtube if anybody is interested. There's segments about all different RC types, then there's tips as well. There's quite a few shows and the official company that makes the shows only have 3 posted, and they aren't even the RC ones, let alone the full show (30 mins)