Tamiya Gravel Hound DF-02 Forum [Archive] - Page 3

snud

03-22-2005, 06:34 AM

hey mad,
yeah im using foam inserts on my dirt hawgs...they're great....help cushion those high jumps...and they keep their shape under brushless power....
shims are a good idea...ive put them in on all four corners and its almost slop free!
carbon fibre suspension arms eh? was asking around about this before but i guess no one thinks its a good idea!
i think the abs arms are adequate...they are more flexible and can absorb impact...so maybe better than carbon fibre for offroad use..
i think losi make the moulded carbon composite arms.....not the sandwiched effect carbon fibre..

bakabaka

03-22-2005, 08:07 AM

Hi Mad About Aus!

I tried putting Losi XXT wheels on my Gravel Hound the other day while helping my friend work on his RC. The shafts on the hubs weren't long enough to put both the wheel and nut on. These were stadium truck wheels, Losi buggy wheels would probably fit.

About the Novak brushless, I bought one used for $140 on ebay. A bit worse for wear, but it worked fine after a bit of soldering. Novak also sells refurbished SS 5800 systems for $165. They come with a 120 day warranty, but have a few scratches since they're used. The following URL has them:

http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=NOVR3005/135.0.7565.0.0.0.0

As for the lower suspension arms, I thought about that when I was trying to increase ground clearance. There probably exist CV joints that would fit if the arms were widened, but I don't know which ones. The camber arm would probably need to be replaced as well. Longer turnbuckles might be needed if you widen the front.

Finally, since I started running the Dirt Hawgs on the buggy I'm running the foams that came with the wheels. I'm no expert on what foam to use, but it seems to run fine. The wheels deform like crazy when the accelerator is floored though.

Have fun! :)

Mad Bout Aus

03-22-2005, 04:48 PM

Thanks for the info guys :D I might even pick-up a few of the motor packs and try and sell one myself (cheeky hey?!)
I'm goin on hols for a few days so I'll catch u's when I'm back.

Keep that trigger pegged :rolleyes:

MAD

vegasdrift

03-22-2005, 09:30 PM

Ok I've just finished ready all 21 pages of this thread. There's some great info. I just have a few questions.
Are the evader bx front shocks longer than the stock df-02 front shocks?
What brand pistons and springs can I use with the duratrax shocks?
Has anybody thought of making front and rear shock towers that are slightly longer? Then you could use longer shocks for more suspension travel?

vegasdrift

03-22-2005, 09:40 PM

Also, would a front one way be optimal on an offroad buggy?

relayer

03-23-2005, 12:55 AM

The Evader shocks will definately be longer than the standard front shocks - probably too long using the standard shock towers.

I'm working on new shock towers, but I've been a bit busy lately.

The car has enough total suspension travel as standard, it's just in the wrong place ie: too little down travel and too much up travel.

What is needed at the rear is a shock tower that mount the shocks lower than standard, perhaps by 10mm or so. At the front a taller tower is needed, so the standard shocks can be ditched altogether and replaced by some 2wd buggy front shocks (like the BX ones mentioned).

You also want the towers designed so that you mount the shocks in the right holes on the arms ie: inside hole on the front arms and outside hole on the rear arms - these are the only arm positions that provide "leverage rates" similar to competition type 2 and 4wd buggies.

A one-way up front will give you more steering but it means that when using brakes the car is rear wheel drive only, so it will slide a lot more under brakes. Top speed is also slightly improved with a one-way, as long as you aren't using front tyres that have a larger diameter than the rear tyres.

They are used a lot in 4wd racing so if you like it, use it :D

bakabaka

03-23-2005, 01:14 AM

I just got the Rising Storm shells in from Japan, they're a bit different than I'd expected. It's the first unpainted kit body I've seen from Tamiya though. I've already put one up on ebay along with the decal sheet. The sides look lower than the Gravel Hound shell, but then my ESC is right where the cockpit bubble is.

Relayer:

The rear tower could definitely be a bit lower. I guess they were more interested in making the DF-02 hug the ground than bound over jumps. I'd be interested to see what you come up with for a better rear shock tower.

Have fun! :)

Mad Bout Aus

03-23-2005, 08:08 AM

Relayer: One way? What is that? Please excuse the the ignorence!

vegasdrift

03-23-2005, 09:56 AM

A front one way replaces the front differential. With a oneway when you hit the brakes the front wheels keep rolling and the rear ones lock up. However if you brake to hard you'll swap ends. They are mostly used on onroad race cars(Factory Team NitroTC3) as they allow you to go into a turn faster.

Did anyone see the test drive that RC Car did for the GH? They liked it a lot. One interesting thing I saw was they mounted some of the electronics on the central shaft cover.

vegasdrift

03-23-2005, 09:57 AM

Is it safe to run longer shocks? Essentially by making the rear shock tower lower that's pretty much what you're doing anyway.

snud

03-23-2005, 05:12 PM

hey guys...
i think the carbon fibre shock by rc-square solve those issues as it has an additional lower mounting hole for the top of the shock....
give more down travel for the shocks...
as for the ride height....i reckon the best solution is gettin bigger wheels with a higher side wall....my dirt hawgs have allowed my suspension to work properly and it rarely bottoms out..
personally i dont like using a front one way with my offroad car....4 wheel braking is a must for my driving style...
the low cogging and freeier drivetrain when using the novak brushless acts like a sort of one way...if that makes sense....helps with the handling..

vegasdrift

03-23-2005, 08:07 PM

So then it's safe to run evader bx rear shoks in the rear even though they're longer by about 10 mm? And has anybody tried GPMs front oneway for the tt-01 in their df02 or tt01.

snud

03-23-2005, 08:28 PM

the carbon fibre rear shock tower is more like a brace and doesnt offer a second mounting hole.....i dont think u can really run the longer evader bx shocks in the rear....
although i read an article somewhere about shortening shocks.....u put a piece of fuel tubing on the shaft just under the piston on the shaft on the inside of the shock body....
this should decrease the shaft travelfor the shock...next u use shorter gravel hound shock springs.....this shuld work in theory....havent tried it myself though...

or u could use the shock shaft from ur gravel hound rear shock in the evader shock body? not sure how well that would work...

vegasdrift

03-23-2005, 09:05 PM

If the rear ST shocks won't work, the front ST shocks are the same length as the rear GH shocks. Then you could use the gh springs if wanted.

bakabaka

03-24-2005, 12:24 AM

Hi vegasdrift!

10mm extra might be a bit much for the DF-02. I'd think an extra 3mm to 5mm would probably be good though. The longer the shocks, the greater the angle of the dogbones against the cups. If the angle's too great, the dogbones would probably pop out or get mangled. It's already been noted that it's necessary to lengthen the slots in the side of the stock drive cups if the angle is increased too much. Otherwise, the sides of the dogbones hit the back of the cups when you turn. Universal joints would probably help with this problem.

Incidentally, I finally got the Square front shock tower and suspension shafts (just one set, also in the front.) Very nice, the front suspension really feels better. It's riding higher in the front too, which is a good thing IMO. It's also possible to adjust the front shock tower to what appears to be the original position. I didn't get the rear carbon shock tower, since it doesn't seem to do much aside from being stronger than the plastic part..

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

03-24-2005, 02:05 AM

Did anyone see the test drive that RC Car did for the GH? They liked it a lot. One interesting thing I saw was they mounted some of the electronics on the central shaft cover.

Hi vegasdrift!

I didn't see it, though I wouldn't mind reading the write-up. Was it this month's issue? As for the electronics though, my ESC is mounted on the shaft/servo cover. Did they mount onto the shaft cover itself? That doesn't sound very stable.

Have fun! :)

Aluma

03-24-2005, 09:05 AM

bakabaka

03-24-2005, 12:46 PM

geez, as it is, they get mangled! It happened to me last weekend at the track... went over a large jump and in the air I saw the bone fly out! Irony of it all was that it was bent before, but now its straight... I guess it got bent back to normal on its way out... LOL!! gotta go to mid position so hopefully it wont do it again.

True enough, but they don't tend to pop out until they're quite bent usually. :) Universals are probably the way to go though.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

03-24-2005, 03:16 PM

Hi vegasdrift!

I didn't see it, though I wouldn't mind reading the write-up. Was it this month's issue? As for the electronics though, my ESC is mounted on the shaft/servo cover. Did they mount onto the shaft cover itself? That doesn't sound very stable.

Have fun! :)
It was either this months or next months. I read while my mom was shopping in Walmart so I don't have it to know for sure. They mounted the electronics directly on the center shaft cover.

About lengthening the drive cup slots, Do I just take a dremel and cut out about 2-3 mm of material towards the diff?
When I get my RS I'm going to make aluminum shock tower lengtheners so that I can mount BX shocks up front.

vegasdrift

03-24-2005, 03:17 PM

Also, does any company make universals? Bakabaka you have a great site by the way.

snud

03-24-2005, 07:21 PM

Also, does any company make universals? Bakabaka you have a great site by the way.

hey vega....

universals made my rc-square...tamiya....
the rc-square ones are a lot beefier and look stronger than the tamiya ones...
im actually using the tamiya universals on the front and rc-square aluminium ones on the rear...
u should be able to get a deal on ebay....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5963945406&rd=1

and rc-square

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5964247296&rd=1

i know they do seem a bit pricey but in my opinion they are worth it...

oh yeah, ive mounted my esc on the central shaft tunnel......ive used some pretty string double sided foam sticky pad thingys.....its fairly secure....
im not using the servo plastic plate housing for my steering servo....im using alumnium servo posts instead...

the reason why i put my esc there is because ive cut out the front window and the ventilation opening is directly on my esc fins....its ideal for cooling....the body sits nice and lownow without compromising cooling..

ive given up on the air ram thingy....ahdesion issues cant get it to stay put..

vegasdrift

03-24-2005, 07:25 PM

Are universals just dogbones that are attached to the diff outdrive cup?
And can someone help me with my other Q about the drive cups?

TRF Drive Hard

03-25-2005, 12:26 AM

The universals are the drive shafts and axles together... the outdrives are by themselves... drive cups or outdrives are the ones on the diff that exit the diff case.

vegasdrift

03-25-2005, 12:29 AM

Thanks for clearing that up for me TRF

bakabaka

03-25-2005, 02:14 AM

Also, does any company make universals? Bakabaka you have a great site by the way.

Hi vegasdrift!

Thanks! I'd add that Tobee Craft also makes universal shafts, they're a bit less expensive in the end since you only need to buy one part. They make a metal gear box joint/outdrive as well, along with a few other nice parts. I'm running their aluminum gear washer on my car now, since the plastic one seemed to be wearing a bit. The Tobee universal shaft can be found below:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5923219809&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

As for dremeling the outdrive/cups, that's basically it. You want to elongate the slot such that the pins in the dogbones don't hit the back of the slots when the car turns. It might be best to shave off a little bit at a time, put the front back together and spin the wheel with the steering turned to one side. If the dogbone pins hit the back of the slots (should make a ticking sound) take a little bit more off. Wash, rinse, repeat until it runs smoothly. Incidentally, Tobee's cups/outdrives seem to have longer slots already. A good thing, since they'd be more difficult to dremel. :p

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

03-25-2005, 04:32 PM

Thanks for the link and dremel info. Are these the outdrive cups (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5923220465&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V)

bakabaka

03-25-2005, 04:48 PM

Thanks for the link and dremel info. Are these the outdrive cups (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5923220465&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V)

Hi vegasdrift!

No, this is actually for the (center) driveshaft, tobee part DF02-05. Tobee's English portion of their website is slightly incorrect since they duplicate the part number twice. The gearbox joints/outdrives are tobee part DF02-06 (43110). I really should add Tobee's part listing to the FAQ with the correction.

I don't actually see the outdrives on ebay right now. I could put a set or two on ebay or the for sale forum on RCZone if you want them. You need one set for the back and one for the front if you want to do both, there are only two per pack. I ended up getting some extra parts when I ordered the Rising Storm shells including a few of these, since the price was rather low compared to the total shipping cost.

Have fun! :)

relayer

03-25-2005, 05:24 PM

What are those Tobee cups made out of? They look like the same material as the old Avante driveshafts :eek:

Mad Bout Aus

03-25-2005, 05:35 PM

bakabaka

03-25-2005, 06:05 PM

What are those Tobee cups made out of? They look like the same material as the old Avante driveshafts :eek:

Hi relayer!

Perhaps some form of steel, I'll stick a magnet next to one when I get home to see if it's ferrous.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

03-25-2005, 06:33 PM

Hey guys. You won't see the cups cause...um...I bought the last pair ;) He should have them back soon though. If you can check this page, this is what they look like:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5954117340&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT

Baka were you able to get any GH shells? I kinda like them a lil better than RS.
Playin the waiting game for my front upright still, hopefully early next week if I'm lucky :rolleyes:

:D HAPPY EASTER :D

Hi Mad About Aus!

That explains it. I do have some extra though if they're wanted.

As for the GH shell, Tamiya USA has them. Oddly enough Tamiya Japan was back ordered on them when last I checked. I could get a few, but it involves calling several times until a human answers and ordering from them. They'd probably be cheaper than the Rising Storm shells though since there's no international shipping involved.

You might want to try checking the Australian Tamiya distributor or your LHS to see if they have/can get them, if not let me know and I'll try to order one for you.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

03-25-2005, 11:25 PM

Bakabaka, I'm gonna wait until I get my RS and mess up the stock ones 'til I upgrade. Thanks.

bakabaka

03-26-2005, 12:03 AM

Bakabaka, I'm gonna wait until I get my RS and mess up the stock ones 'til I upgrade. Thanks.

Cool, I haven't needed mine yet either although I've had it for quite some time. Dremel out the slots a bit and it should be fine for at least 6 months, given you don't take it on a "crash course" ;) The DF-02 is a tough chassis out of the box.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

03-26-2005, 12:06 AM

What are those Tobee cups made out of? They look like the same material as the old Avante driveshafts :eek:

Hi relayer!

Just checked. A magnet sticks to them, so they're probably steel. At the very least they're iron-based.

Have fun! :)

Mad Bout Aus

03-26-2005, 06:38 AM

Hey guys what do you think about these Nitro Tyres? I'm goin to need some soon so I might get some wheels while I'm at it...

MAD

Mad Bout Aus

03-26-2005, 06:39 AM

Damn I keep forgetting that bit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm

vegasdrift

03-26-2005, 10:37 AM

Damn I keep forgetting that bit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm
What tires would you be talking about? That link seems to lead to the home page.

bakabaka

03-26-2005, 03:31 PM

Hi Mad About Aus!

The Super Nitro Rally tires on the bottom of the following page look nice. They only seem to make these and several types of racing slicks for the 57mm wheels. I'm not into racing so I wouldn't know what to say about the slicks. I still rather like the Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs for bashing since they seem to last forever, but since you race these tires might be better.

http://www.hpiracing.com/tires/tire-s.htm

I'm actually running HPI's 3037 wheels myself, though the way they've scraped up on the edges I'd recommend a color other than chrome.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

03-26-2005, 11:26 PM

Are the super nitro rims the same diameter as the df-02 ones?

vegasdrift

03-26-2005, 11:35 PM

Ok, my brother has just announced that he's going to get an xtm elec. X-cellerator. Now I'm thinking that I should get a T4 SE so that we can race together and so I can race at my local track if they have races. So now I have a few quistions.
1. Do most tracks have a 4wd buggy class?
2. I know it's not meant to, but will a df-02 hold its own in a race with other
4wd buggies?
3. What would I have more fun driving with. A t4 or df-02?
4. What is easier to maintain t4 or df-02?

Thanks for taking the time to read/answer this. Your help is greatly appreciated.

bakabaka

03-27-2005, 03:29 AM

Hi vegasdrift!

Yup, they're both 57mm (2.2 inch) diameter and have a 12mm (1/2 inch) hex hub. They work fine with the Dirt Hawgs.

bakabaka

03-27-2005, 04:09 AM

Hi vegasdrift!

I can't really answer the first two questions, perhaps Mad About Aus might be able to?

For the third though, I guess it depends on what you want to do and what you consider fun. One's a 2wd stadium truck and one's a 4wd buggy. If you want to go bashing, I'd go with the buggy. If you want to race, I'd go with the truck. It's known to be competitive. For my part, I like bashing. 4wd offroading is quite fun, and I'd feel better about crashing a $100 kit into a wall than a $300 kit. ;)

I don't have a basis for comparison against the T4 either, but the DF-02 is pretty simple to work on. The designers seemed to follow the KISS principle in the right places. The only annoying aspect might be changing the spur gear, which involves a bit more disassembly than I'd like.

Have fun! :)

snud

03-27-2005, 04:26 AM

hey vegas....
seriously if ur looking into racing get the t4......it race ready straight outta the box...its an amazing truck. u'll be competetive no matter where u are!
the Df02 isnt relly meant for racing....but with the right hop ups it can be made competetive......but ull be looking to spend a fair bit of money.
i would however...if looking into racing....buy a xxx-4...or a yokomo...
although saying that...i find..is more stable in the rough stuff...
you would definately have more fun driivng the DF02 than the t4......same point as bakabaka.....
the DF02 is super durable and can handle some pretty serious crashes that the t4 wouldnt survive..

snud

03-27-2005, 10:01 AM

vegasdrift

03-27-2005, 10:40 AM

heheheheh cant believe it!!!!
i broke my chasis's front end off completely!!!!!!!!!!
was doing a jump and it landed awkwardly and fell down a ciff sorta thing....
man...this sucks!!!!
i gotta twiddle my thumbs till the new chasis arrives!
That sucks. It's a good thing those don't cost a lot. Keep twiddling.

I've decided to get the t4 se. I can get a good deal on it as long as I buy it before the end of March. I'm going to immediately start saving for a Rising Storm as my next car. I'll be sure to drop in here every now and again. Thanks for answering my questions.

bakabaka

03-27-2005, 02:15 PM

heheheheh cant believe it!!!!
i broke my chasis's front end off completely!!!!!!!!!!
was doing a jump and it landed awkwardly and fell down a ciff sorta thing....
man...this sucks!!!!
i gotta twiddle my thumbs till the new chasis arrives!

Wow, how high was the jump? That's some fairly thick plastic to be breaking. Good luck on getting the parts quickly.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

03-27-2005, 04:54 PM

I've decided to get the t4 se. I can get a good deal on it as long as I buy it before the end of March. I'm going to immediately start saving for a Rising Storm as my next car. I'll be sure to drop in here every now and again. Thanks for answering my questions.

Hi vegasdrift,

Good luck racing with your new truck! If you do end up getting the Rising Storm and ever try racing it, I'd be interested in the results.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

03-27-2005, 08:52 PM

Right now I just hope that my local track has races. I can't find information anywhere. However if things go as planned, I should have my RS soon after I get the T4.

bakabaka

03-28-2005, 01:01 AM

Right now I just hope that my local track has races. I can't find information anywhere. However if things go as planned, I should have my RS soon after I get the T4.

I decided to go looking for an offroad track today just for kicks. I went to what used to be a track in a nearby city, apparently a small building/platform on the side of the track collapsed and the entire thing was locked up. I haven't found any others, hopefully they're going to fix it soon. The jumps looked quite nice.

Have fun! :)

Mad Bout Aus

03-28-2005, 04:59 AM

What tires would you be talking about? That link seems to lead to the home page.

Woops wrong page! The tire I'm refering to are the HPI Super Nitro, they seem to be a dedicated race tyre i.e. mass grip, less life. Though they do have two different compounds so I huess the harder of the two would be the choice for hacks!!!!!!!

MAD :D

Mad Bout Aus

03-28-2005, 05:20 AM

vegasdrift, first and foremost, the DF-02 was never really ment to be a serious racer. Though, if you wanted to then go for it but like Snud said you'd better spend $'s on it. I'm a big fan of xxx-4's and the G+ is the cats meow! Graphite all over the place and put a stong motor in it and hold onto your hat ;) Also I guess you could say there is quite a move towards the truck style of set-up and with good reason, there heaps of fun with racer potential.

P.s. Break something and be prepared to hurt a bit. You'll be paying more than what Snud's looking at i.e US$7-8 for a chassis!

:D MAD :D

vegasdrift

03-28-2005, 06:58 PM

What needs to be done to make the df-02 ready to race? I already know about the suspension geometry and I have a plan to fix it. Is it heavy, have sloppy steering?

Liko

03-28-2005, 11:07 PM

What needs to be done to make the df-02 ready to race? I already know about the suspension geometry and I have a plan to fix it. Is it heavy, have sloppy steering?

To make it race-worthy, the steering needs to have the slop removed. You can do it with a few small washers, redesign the steering like one of the guys in this thread (look around for pics), or buy the aluminum steering set. It is a bit heavy, but I'd focus more on its handling as drilling holes will only end up hurting you. It is pretty well balanced. Also play with your motor and gearing. The stock gearing is very torquey with the stock silvercan. You can play around with a higher RPM motor and take a tooth or two off the pinion. Get some tires that match your surface (soft/dry: tall spikes, soft/moist = shorter pin spikes, hard-packed = dirt hawgs) and go racing.

snud

03-29-2005, 04:22 PM

suspension slop is another issue you'd probably need to address before racing...

i think it originates from the u shaft that tamiya uses.......

snud

03-29-2005, 04:27 PM

Wow, how high was the jump? That's some fairly thick plastic to be breaking. Good luck on getting the parts quickly.

Have fun! :)

yeah it was pretty high........got too brave and took the ramp at top speed...........didnt peg the throttle in the air and it nose dived into the ground....

didnt realise it was broken until it started pulling to the left....

this is one of the great things about the df02 chasis....its dirt cheap to get a replacement chasis!!
picked mine up for £6 from my LHS....

baka...these dirt hawgs are showing very little wear for the amount ive been using them...

bakabaka

03-29-2005, 10:59 PM

Hi snud!

Glad to hear you could get the parts quickly. I haven't been brave enough to send it full throttle into any sort of obstacle yet with the brushless. Used to do it all the time with the stock motor though heh. It's really amazing how much of a difference it makes.

Definitely concur with the Dirt Hawgs, they're great for bashing. The traction isn't half bad, and mine still look almost new. I've run them through sand, dirt, and on asphalt/concrete with no significant wear. The wheels are actually worse off than the tires due to a couple of scrapes. I thought I'd have to buy new tires every couple of weeks when I first ran the Hound. Good to know that isn't the case ;)

I ended up getting some inkjet decal paper from Lazertran, nifty stuff. Anyone here tried it? They dry to a white backing unless you spray them a few times with fast dry enamel/lacquer. If you paint (not spray) lacquer after they're applied, they keep their white backing. I've been adding/changing a few decals on the Hound body (and a Tamiya logo to the Clodbuster) as practice before I try stickering the Rising Storm.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

03-29-2005, 11:32 PM

suspension slop is another issue you'd probably need to address before racing...

i think it originates from the u shaft that tamiya uses.......

I've been thinking that perhaps a hollow cylindrical piece of teflon around the shaft just small enough to fit in the arm joints would make it fit a bit better, sort of like a shim. Just enough to take the slop out of the shaft without having to modify the current parts. Not sure how such a thing would be made though. At the moment I just wrap teflon tape around the shafts that have a lot of slop, but that's not terribly permanent.

Have fun! :)

jimbo_style

03-30-2005, 07:11 PM

just joining the rc community after scrimping and saving $ for months
bought a rising storm for its durability and am impressed
after having it for a couple weeks, i'm craving more speed, what speed mods would you recommend for a beginner that aren't too hard on the wallet?

any thanks would be greatly appreciated

thanks :)

bakabaka

03-31-2005, 12:17 AM

Hi jimbo_style!

The real answer is another ESC and motor, but an inexpensive interim solution would be the 63t gear from Tamiya. It speed things up a bit for just a few dollars. While it probably won't cure your speed craving, the GH strikes most people as a bit overgeared out of the box. The gear can be ordered through your local hobby shop, or from the following ebay listing:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5954342860&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

You'd probably do well to get another ESC before you get another motor, assuming you're still using the TEU-101bk that came with the Rising Storm. The stock ESC can only go down to a 23 turn motor, and I've heard of it overheating even with those. You probably want about a 19 turn to begin with from what I've heard. Note that lower turns tend to equal both higher speed and faster battery drain.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

03-31-2005, 06:52 PM

Yeah you'll definitely want a hotter motor and esc. For an esc I'm using a mtroniks tempo 11t in my tt-01. I handles down to 11 turns but its forward only. You can get it for 39-50 dollars. There's also a lot of cheap modified motors out there( peak performance rush series, peak performance jaguar series, venom fireball series, epic motorsport modified series). These are all available for $14.99-$29.99. They're a great way to try out modified motors. It all depends on how fast you wanna go.

jimbo_style

03-31-2005, 09:42 PM

thanks for the hlp!
also going to get bearings heard they increase batt life/performance
also what do you think about the tamiya super tuned motor for only 25$?

bakabaka

04-01-2005, 02:54 AM

Hi jimbo_style!

I guess you're talking about the Super Stock motors? These motors might work with the stock ESC, but you might be pushing it a bit. The turn limit of the stock ESC is 23 turns, which is the same as these motors. OTOH if it burns out I suppose that's as good a reason to get a new ESC as any.

Incidentally, if you haven't seen it yet, I've put up a FAQ which contains the answers to various questions I've had/answered/read the answer to. It's at the following URL, hope it's useful:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/

Have fun! :)

UKGH

04-01-2005, 09:52 AM

RCUNIVERSE.com Forums has a great Gear ratio calculator for ensuring that gearing is set correctly. However, does anyone know what the GH standard transmission ratio is ?
I have a Reedy 19t with the 67T Spur Gear. Iam wanting to work out the correct pinion gear that would be a good balance between torque and top speed without burning out my ESC or running my motor very hot. I am still using the std wheels..
What is the Std pinion gear supplied with the kit (21t ?)

Any ideas..?

Thanks

bakabaka

04-01-2005, 12:46 PM

Hi UKGH!

The ratio of the drivetrain alone is 2.6. The following entry in the FAQ contains a bit more information about gearing the DF-02, along with which spur and pinion combinations are usable with the motor mount.

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/index.php?sid=328&lang=en&action=artikel&cat=4&id=2&artlang=en

Lest I not forget, the stock pinion is 19t and the stock spur is 70t.

Have fun! :)

jimbo_style

04-01-2005, 06:37 PM

found a quick and easy way to cure the rising storm's understeer
all you have to do is put the thick wheels in the front and the thin ones in the back
this way the back wheels loose grip on a harsh turn before the front ones do

ps. for an easy drift setup just do the same but have fresh tires up front and slicks/ very worn tires in back!

jimbo_style

04-02-2005, 12:15 PM

just wondering what the difference between normal ball bearings and teflon coated ones is? are they really that much better? Also, looking to get my dad introduced into the rc world, what's a buggy/truck that is durable that I can get used (and probably beat) up for cheap (50$ or so)

thankl

Alex8027

04-02-2005, 04:07 PM

jimbo_style-

There are a couple of differences between the two, mostly in how well it keeps out the elements. The regular steel variety do not do AS good a job at keeping dirt/etc. out of the inside of the bearings. However, they are very easy to clean with some electric motor cleaner or automobile brake cleaner. Also teflon bearings have some limitations on applications (sometimes they have more friction than steel/temperature limitations/etc.). I have never really had any problems running standard steel bearings. Also, on the speed increase, you can purchase a nice stock motor and will notice a fairly sizable increase in speed over the stock kit motor. That is the most basic motor available and is pretty ancient compared to most motors. Something like the Tower Hobbies stock motor ($15 - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMX67&P=ML) would be a boost in speed.

As far as a durable car that you could get for your dad, I'd take a look on eBay. I'm not sure if you'll be able to find an entire RTR (car and radio) for that price; but sometimes there are some deals. Cars I would recommend would be the Duratrax Evader series, Tamiya Super Hornet/Super G/Super Fighter, Traxxas Rustler/Bandit/Stampede. If you are looking at similar vehicles, the Tamiya TL01 series (Baja King/Baja Champ) can go for around that price and be in decent condition. Also, there have been some knock-off versions selling on eBay (RTR) for around $80 (which includes a battery pack and radio).

And a little message to everyone, sorry for the delay on the chassis/shock towers. I've been pretty busy as of late with the new job/move. I am hoping to work on it some next week.

Alex

bakabaka

04-02-2005, 04:25 PM

Hi jimbo_style!

Bearings are typically designated by the "seal", which is the circular piece of material on the sides which prevents dirt/dust particles from getting inside the bearing. The only difference is rolling resistance, but any bearing is going to work much better than a bushing. I bought the teflon bearings myself. Knowing what I know now though, I'd go for the metal sealed bearings. The DF-02 is only lacking wheel bearings out of the box, and those are the ones you need to be the most durable. The ones that come with it are metal sealed.

As for a cheap buggy you could get for $50 or so, Tamiya's older Grasshopper and Hornet buggies are often sold complete with radio for about $50 or so. You might end up paying for shipping off ebay, but with Tamiya's re-release of the Hornet, parts are no longer difficult to obtain.

Have fun! :)

Eotz

04-03-2005, 10:23 AM

Hi :)

I have just finish my first official race with my Rising Storm. Finish mounting it Friday at night. I surprised with the great performance at the race. I race at the same level than the Losi XXX4. A very nice driving, so quiet, and so fast. I used a LRP V7 ESC with a LRP Fusion Phase 12x2, and some Hop-ups like the Racing Steering, Ball Dif, Front One-way. The pain went that stellamodels mistaken when preparing the shipment and they don't send the aluminum shock absorbers to me. Another new is that I discover that Thunder Tiger's SSB wheels fits at DF-02 chasis and the came complety assembled from factory.

Have a nice day :p
Bye.

vegasdrift

04-03-2005, 11:27 AM

So howd you do?

Eotz

04-03-2005, 12:40 PM

I finish at second place. :rolleyes:

Not bad for the first time :D

Bye

jimbo_style

04-03-2005, 02:03 PM

what does the "turn" indicate on a motor and how come my esc can only handle 23t and others can handel more? also how much do better esc's cost (range please)

thanks

jimbo_style

04-03-2005, 02:05 PM

sorry to bug you guys again, but what would you recommend by way of hi torque servo, mine has trouble straightening out the wheels after a fast corner and would I need to modify anything else?

thanks

jimbo_style

04-03-2005, 09:35 PM

followed no bottoming out tutorial and used polished copper piping.
looks sweet! :D

bakabaka

04-04-2005, 02:57 AM

I finish at second place. :rolleyes:

Not bad for the first time :D

Bye

Hi Eotz,

Congratulations! How does the car handle for you compared to the others you've driven?

Have fun! :)

UKGH

04-04-2005, 03:36 AM

Thanks for that , your gearing chart helps to clear up some confusion. Using the gearing calculator and knowing the drivetrain ratio , I can now quickly put in the spur and pinion gear sizes to determine the best balance between speed and power before actually fitting the parts in the car (Can also determine whether the motor/esc will start running too hot..)

BTW - The difference in speed alone I have achieved by replacing the stock 540 with the Reedy 19t is already quite impressive. I would highly recommend this motor to anyone looking for a quick speed upgrade (provided u have a decent ESC)

Hi UKGH!

The ratio of the drivetrain alone is 2.6. The following entry in the FAQ contains a bit more information about gearing the DF-02, along with which spur and pinion combinations are usable with the motor mount.

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/index.php?sid=328&lang=en&action=artikel&cat=4&id=2&artlang=en

Lest I not forget, the stock pinion is 19t and the stock spur is 70t.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

04-04-2005, 03:50 AM

Hi jimbo_style,

I'm using a Futaba S3305 metal gear/ball bearing servo currently, which works very well. It might be a bit overkill though. Others might have better suggestions. In general though, there are other areas which should probably be worked on before getting a better servo.

The steering arms are by default plastic, and have quite a bit of slop. Tamiya makes aluminum ball bearing steering arms which should help quite a bit in this department:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5953238609&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

It also couldn't hurt to complete the turnbuckle set. I have the RTR which comes with plastic everything, not terribly desirable. If you have the kit you have a partial set. There is a hop-up set however which apparently helps significantly:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5953087938&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

I fully intend to try both of them once tax season is over. ;)

As for the motor turns, basically lower turns == higher current draw, which the ESC has to provide to the motor. An ESC can only provide so many amps before you burn it out. The number of turns that an ESC can support is actually an approximation of how much current a motor of that number of turns should take. I put slightly more detail into a FAQ entry if you're interested.

Have fun! :)

Eotz

04-04-2005, 04:45 AM

Hi Eotz,

Congratulations! How does the car handle for you compared to the others you've driven?

Have fun! :)

Hi Bakabaka.

Before the DF-02 I only drive with Schumacher CAT3000 and a Tamiya Manta Ray. As you know the CAT's and the Losi XXX4's performance is very similar. The DF-02 driving seems a lot to the CAT's driving. My Rising Storm is the first Tamiya car running in our provincial championship in many years and everybody was surprised with that car. The DF-02 has an advantage and a disadvantage comparing with the CAT. The advantage is the shaft, totally closed that eliminates the problem of which the dirt of the circuit enters in the differential and it blocks it. The disadvantage in the weight, the CAT is totally made in graphite and carbon reason why is lighter, but the general performance is very similar and with a good setup it can face a Losi XXX4, CAT3000 or Yokomo without problems. I gave by seated who was going to be worse since it is not sold as a competicion car but I am very happy with it. The subject of duravility of the car is different. In a single race I did not break any part but already it will tell that so after a few races.
I hope that this results useful for you.

Bye :)

snud

04-04-2005, 05:52 AM

copper piping on your shocks?
wouldnt that make them heavier?
i ran my hound today......using a hacker c40 8T brushless motor....and a hacker master controller...7 cells
so much power!!! man......never seen my hound go that quick!
got about 7 minutes of runtime from my 7 cell gp3300
i wish my dv cam was working...wouldve been a sweet video!
cant believe i gotta give the brushless system back on wednesday!!! man!!! that sucks!!!
its my mates......im thinking of saving up this summer and getting it....the power is addictive!
have to go back to my novak.....which is no slouch either but the hacker is in another league...

bakabaka

04-04-2005, 11:12 AM

Eotz

04-04-2005, 11:50 AM

Hi Eotz,

Thanks for the information! The question of the DF-02's suitability for racing often comes up, the only answer we have had is that it "wasn't intended for racing". Good luck in the future with it :)

Have fun! :)

Hi Bakabaka.

The stock kit or the RTR aren't a real racers, like other cars, but with all the Hop-Ups and a good setup, they can race and face the other cars without problems. The rest depends of the pilot :).

Bye

vegasdrift

04-04-2005, 11:08 PM

Congratulations on your second place finish Eotz.
I have yet to get my T4 because when I went to the hobby shop they were sold out. So I missed the sale and now have to wait for the next one. However with your race news I'm considering the RS more and more.

jimbo_style

04-06-2005, 07:11 PM

Front shock broke, flew off my jump at an asquew angle and it just poped and I lost a piece. Thought about getting extreme ground clearance, just put the back shocks in front and the wheels go down like 2cm! For the back, need something longer, wondering if anyone knew where to get longer metal cilinders for the back. That would give the storm great ground clearance.

vegasdrift

04-06-2005, 08:02 PM

The rear shocks of the Evader st are longer(about 4 inches).

bakabaka

04-07-2005, 04:26 AM

I finally got around to trimming, painting and decaling one of the Rising Storm bodies. Although my masking and painting skills are sadly lacking at this point, I think it looks nice with the decals on. I put up a picture at the following URL:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/camera/gravel-hound/tn/DSC02112.JPG.html

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

04-07-2005, 04:34 AM

Hi Bakabaka.

The stock kit or the RTR aren't a real racers, like other cars, but with all the Hop-Ups and a good setup, they can race and face the other cars without problems. The rest depends of the pilot :).

Bye

That's mostly what I've heard, some people feel it's a good chassis for its durability but others feel it's a waste of money for racing. Yours apparently has an excellent pilot.

Have fun! :)

Eotz

04-07-2005, 06:13 AM

That's mostly what I've heard, some people feel it's a good chassis for its durability but others feel it's a waste of money for racing. Yours apparently has an excellent pilot.

Have fun! :)

Hi Bakabaka.

That's exactly the same that I heard a lot of times. Some pilots of my club said that it was a waste of money, that is better spend some money in another car (Just a losi XXX4), but the las sunday they were the first in being impressed by the DF-02 after test it. In my club everybody runs with Losi and Associated and for they the world finish there :confused: .

Bye

dirtdevel

04-07-2005, 10:56 AM

Would a hopped up DF-02 be competitive against an equally hopped losi xxx4?

snud

04-07-2005, 11:41 AM

Eotz

04-07-2005, 01:30 PM

hey dirtdevil.....

highly doubt that it would be quicker than a fully hopped up losi xxx4.....
but then again i dont think it would be thaaat much slower!!!
it would definately give a xxx4 a good race around a circuit...
Eotz must be a reallly good driver to win with his df02...
Eotz...what kind of hop ups are u using for racing?

Hi. :)

I use the next Hop-Up:

- Ball bearings at all the whells (8).

- 53671 TT01 Front one way.
- 53788 DF-02 Turnbuckle Shafts.
- 53701 Aluminium Damper Set.
- 53663 TT01 Ball Differential.
- 53666 TT01 Aluminium motor mount.
- 53789 Aluminium Racing Steering.
- 53620 TT01 Reinforced Shaft.
- 53793 DF-02 2-Way Alum Rear Uprights.

- LRP V7 ESC.
- LRP Fusion Phase 4.1 11x2T (41.000 rpm).
- KO FS712 Fet fast servo.
- Schumacher yellow rear damper springs.
- Schumacher Shock Oil 25.
- Thunder Tiger SSB 2.2" Front and rear whells.
- Futaba 2PL.
- GP 3300 Batterys selected by Schumacher.

I think that is all. At the competition we were 18 cars, 10 at 2WD race and 8 at 4WD. 3 Losi XXX4, 2 Losi XX4, 1 Schumacher CAT3000, 1 Khyoso Lazer, and my DF-02. But I won really close to the second car a Losi XXX4. :o . But the championship are 7 races and only score the 5 betters. A good begining, let's see how it ends :) I hope this will be useful for you.

Bye.

snud

04-07-2005, 04:40 PM

nice setup eotz!!!!
do u have any pics of ur race preped df02??
what do the thunder tiger ssb wheels look like??? tires?

how did u get round removing the suspension slop? did u use shims?

bakabaka

04-07-2005, 04:42 PM

Hi Eotz,

I'm just curious, where did you find the Thunder Tiger SSB 2.2" wheels? I haven't been able to find them separate from the car itself online.

Have fun! :)

Eotz

04-07-2005, 06:09 PM

Hi Eotz,

I'm just curious, where did you find the Thunder Tiger SSB 2.2" wheels? I haven't been able to find them separate from the car itself online.

Have fun! :)

I bougth there at a local store at 16€ each pair. I went to the shop to buy an foam inserts to the tamiya wheels. The haven't got any insert for a 1:10TT but they sold Tunder Tiger cars, SSB included. Is a Nitro 1:10TT. The wheels came with a 2.2" yellow wheel, and mini pin tire. They came assembled, just ready to use, whell, insert and tire. They came in pairs. The two front tires in a bag and rear tires in other. A friend of me who runs with Kyosho cars say that those wheels are exactly the same as Lazer wheels. You can see those wheels at www.thundertiger.com

Bye :)

Eotz

04-08-2005, 02:30 AM

Hi.

I forgot to say that I use an RW Racing's 16T Steel pinion with the 70T Spur. With a final gear ratio of 10.38 as Bakabaka say at his FAQ page :rolleyes: . That the best ratio for the LRP Fusion Phase 4.1 as LRP indicates in at the motor specifications.

Bye. :)

dirtdevel

04-08-2005, 06:44 AM

you must have spent a small fortune Eotz!!!

sounds great though would love to se a pic with all that on.

Eotz

04-08-2005, 07:33 AM

you must have spent a small fortune Eotz!!!

sounds great though would love to se a pic with all that on.

Not too much, I only bought the kit and the Tamiya hop-up. I alredy have the motor, ESC, the transmiter, batterys and so on from my CAT3000. I spent near 200€ at different ebay stores. I supose that Bakabaka, snud and other people bought the same parts at ebay. In fact, in this forum I saw post from people with more hop-ups in the car than me. Snud and others. At the moment I can't post pictures but in other posts you can see chasis with the same options or more only changing the wheels. I think that in a high level competition (like nationals) a Losi XXX4 G+ hoopend must be better than the DF-02, sure. But for local competitions or in good pilot hands, I think that the DF-02 is enought. Then you must spend a lot of battery packs trining in your circuit, that is very important.

Bye.

dirtdevel

04-08-2005, 09:31 AM

Fair play to you
Sounds like you know what it takes, im more for bashing myself not really a racer taking it down the local bmx track is faking great with some mad jumps :D

havent broken anything as yet but im still trying.

DD

bakabaka

04-08-2005, 05:48 PM

Hi Eotz,

If you need a place to post a few pictures I can help. I can't host a direct link since my bandwidth isn't very high, but I can give you a directory like the one I'm using for my pictures.

Have fun! :)

Mad Bout Aus

04-08-2005, 06:39 PM

Hey guys :D Whats the main difference between a normal 23turn motor and a double turn?

Cheers
MAD

vegasdrift

04-08-2005, 08:03 PM

If by regular you mean single wind, the single wind will have more off the line acceleration. The double will have smoother acceleration. The higher you go in # of winds the smoother the acceleration will be. If you were on a really slick track you'd want motor with 3-4 winds.

vegasdrift

04-08-2005, 10:05 PM

What's the stock ground clearance of the RS at both the front and rear? Also, what's the ground clearance with the arms level?

bakabaka

04-08-2005, 11:07 PM

Hey guys :D Whats the main difference between a normal 23turn motor and a double turn?

Cheers
MAD

Hi Mad About Aus,

Apparently it's the number of strands that the wire wrapped around the commutator is made of. If you have more strands in the wire, then the acceleration tends to be smoother. Found the info here:

http://www.darncoolstuff.com/Getting_Started/getting_started_with_rc-vehicles--motors.htm

and the distinction will be added to the FAQ 'soon' (for some definition of soon.)

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

04-09-2005, 03:51 AM

What's the stock ground clearance of the RS at both the front and rear? Also, what's the ground clearance with the arms level?

Hi vegasdrift!

Not sure what the clearance was with the arms level, but I remember that it was right about 1 inch at full height when I originally checked. It's been a while since mine's been stock though ;)

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

04-10-2005, 01:18 PM

The weather's turned around this weekend and I was able to take the DF-02 out during the day. I've been running it at night during the week due to rainy weekends. Anyway, the Super Sport ESC is definitely heating up a bit with the current gearing (19t pinion/63t spur) as snud noticed. I may end up putting the 70t spur in there again, or perhaps getting an ESC fan or a bigger heat sink. Still not sure if I want to make ventilation holes though...

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

04-10-2005, 10:31 PM

vegasdrift

04-10-2005, 10:35 PM

Everybody, what are your opinions of the Associated LRP IPC pro sport ESC (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000689284&I=LXRE98&P=K) . I'll be using it for racing and other driving. Are there better esc's for this price?

bakabaka

04-11-2005, 01:16 AM

vegasdrift's comment about clearance caused me to look into the suspension again. The front damper stay from Square fixed the front, but the rear has been a nagging issue. I found a way to increase the clearance and suspension travel that doesn't involve a dremel and a drill press. Brass motherboard standoffs. :)

The forum has consistently given me "invalid thread specified" errors when I tried to submit this message, presumably due to its length. I put it in the FAQ I'm maintaining, the article's at the following URL:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/index.php?sid=360&lang=en&action=artikel&cat=6&id=22&artlang=en

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

04-11-2005, 01:38 AM

I would opt for putting the stock spur back in. No sense in cutting a hole in the body for no reason.

Hi vegasdrift!

You're probably right. Still, I have two painted shells (Rising Storm and Gravel Hound) along with an extra unpainted Rising Storm shell. I could probably survive if I mutilate one of them. My painting of the first Rising Storm shell might have been mutilation enough though. ;)

Have fun! :)

snud

04-12-2005, 05:22 PM

i think ur right guys......its getting wayy too hot even with holes......
preferably would like my esc to run cooler....i think ill have to put the 70t spur back in....
oh well....more torque!

bakabaka

04-12-2005, 09:47 PM

Hi snud!

What weight of oil are you using in the rear dampers? I was using very heavy oil (Team Associated 80) in the back with the hard springs. Since I added the extra clearance I was able to put the medium springs on the rear and soft on the front without dragging the rear bumper when flooring the brushless. I haven't changed the oil weight though. It's jumping a lot better on the speedbumps here and hasn't bottomed out yet, but I think a somewhat lighter weight of oil might improve things even further. What are you using?

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

04-13-2005, 01:07 AM

While I'm at it, I finally took pictures of the suspension extensions. Here they are:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/camera/gravel-hound/suspension-mod/

It turned out pretty well considering the parts cost next to nothing.

Have fun! :)

relayer

04-13-2005, 06:31 AM

bakabaka-

The problem with just lengthening the rear shocks is that you might gain ground clearance but you don't increase the stiffness - the standard shock mounting positions on the arms are too far inwards to offer the correct stiffness under shock compression.

The best idea is to bolt a small bracket to the standard shock mounting holes in the arm - like the one posted very early on in this thread:

snud

04-13-2005, 08:07 AM

hey relayer...
i agree with you on the point about lengthening the rear shock....
by using that bracket u have developed there should be more progressive dampening for the rear....
baka...do u really need the extra rear ride height even with the dirthawgs?? i havent made any mods except a little bit of fuel tubing to stop chasis slap...
im using 60wt oil in the rear shocks and 40 wt in the front shocks...
that set up pretty much suits the track runing my hound on......for racing ive swapped out the dithawgs for mini pin tires and they hook up great.....
hehhe the rear ride height isnt such a problem anymore with the fuel tubing..

bakabaka

04-13-2005, 12:56 PM

Hi relayer!

You're right of course, increasing the angle gives more damping per unit of downward travel. Until I get a drill press though, I'm not going to be able to drill straight holes into that bracket. I've tried ;)

OTOH, I've been driving it around and this modification does indeed help. I'm able to use softer springs all around, and the rear definitely bounces less after jumps. In fact, I was able to completely remove the tubing from the suspension shaft. A bit of tubing might help on larger jumps, but it wouldn't need to be as long. This suffices for the jumps I have available.

There are in fact places (esp. grassy areas) where the additional ride height itself is useful to me. :P I'd recommend trying it before completely discounting the idea.

Have fun! :)

relayer

04-13-2005, 03:30 PM

Well if you need the extra ride height for a reason then that's fair enough.

As I have raced 4wd buggies for many years I thought it would be better to have a setup similar to current racing 4wds - but then again I wont really be using my car anywhere except for proper tracks :)

bakabaka

04-13-2005, 06:06 PM

Hi snud!

Yup, I'd say the extra ride height is a good thing for my purposes. The difference in height isn't huge, but it helps. When bottoming out on the jumps, the tires were compressing which allowed the rear end to scrape the ground. Tubing prevents that, but then there's no damping aside from the elasticity of the tube. That killed handling in such situations. By increasing the height, the suspension travel gets used as it was intended. If you have an extra set of the bottom plastic connectors for the shock shaft, I'd suggest trying the standoffs. They won't set you back much, but they'll give you an extra bit of configuration flexibility. Worst case, you'll need to use a shorter bit of fuel tubing.

Have fun! :)

snud

04-13-2005, 08:21 PM

fair enough baka.....im gonna give them a try....
where did u get the stand offs?

bakabaka

04-13-2005, 10:10 PM

Hi snud!

I had them around since I build my own computer, however any local computer shop would probably have a few extra around. The FAQ entry has a link to a place where you can buy a bag of 50 for about $5 which includes a picture of the standoffs. You might be able to find a better place to get them, perhaps in fewer quantities. Note that the bottom of the standoff has a different (coarser) thread than the bottom of the suspension shaft, which is why I mention having an extra lower connector.

Incidentally, relayer brings up a good point. My car isn't tuned for racing, I can't even find a good offroad racetrack around here. If you're interested in racing, a lower car would probably be better due to the lower the center of gravity.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

04-14-2005, 04:15 AM

Hi snud!

I found an ebay auction which has them as well, $2.00 for 8 of them and about $5 shipping to the UK:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1244&item=6759458153&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

A bit expensive for what you're getting, mostly for the shipping. You're better off asking around a local computer shop if possible.

The standoffs I'm using are 6.5mm without the screw end, 8.5mm length ones are also common. The 6.5mm ones match the front perfectly, I wouldn't recommend anything larger there. The rear dampers still have a bit of wasted travel left, though I'm not sure if more height than the 6.5mm standoff gives is desirable.

Have fun! :)

dirtdevel

04-14-2005, 04:50 AM

if you are in the uk maplin sell 50 4mm units for £2.99

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=37594&TabID=1&source=15&WorldID=&doy=14m4

snud

04-14-2005, 08:12 AM

thanks guys......
goin to maplins today.....
dirtdevil u from the uk?? whereabouts?

bakabaka

04-15-2005, 01:30 AM

Hi snud!

Did you end up trying the extenders? The amount of suspension travel gained surprised me when I added the standoffs. It really wakes up the rear suspension, and it doesn't hurt in the front either.

On another note, a friend dropped off a wireless X10 camera which has been removed from its casing tonight. I'm going to try putting it on the DF-02 and capturing a "driver cam" video clip perhaps this weekend, it should prove interesting. Not sure where I'm going to mount the camera yet though.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

04-15-2005, 12:17 PM

Can't wait to see the vids.
Do the extenders/stand offs just lenghten the rear shocks? Would I get the same results by just using longer shocks?

Will sheetmetal work for the brackets?

bakabaka

04-15-2005, 12:48 PM

Hi vegasdrift!

Yup, it should be fun. I have to figure out how to pack all the electronics again though.

As for the standoffs, that's pretty much it. The important bit is not so much that they increase the length; they also increase the usable suspension travel, which was somewhat lacking originally. Using softer springs no longer penalizes you with instant bottoming out. You may get the same results with longer shocks, but the cost difference (perhaps $40+ for shocks vs. pocket change for the standoffs) made it a pretty easy choice for me.

Sheetmetal should work for the bracket, although if it's steel it might be a bit heavy. I was using 3mm aluminum before I got to the point where I realized I wouldn't be able to drill a straight enough hole. FWIW, I believe the holes need to be 3mm diameter with 2mm of distance between each other in order to fit the rear damper mounts.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

04-15-2005, 06:52 PM

Thanks for the specs, Bakabaka

bakabaka

04-16-2005, 04:42 AM

Hi vegasdrift!

Sure, anytime! Incidentally, sorry about the lack of response on the ESC you were looking at. I haven't a clue how well that model works, though I'll volunteer that I'm very happy with my Novak brushless ESC/motor combo. Pity they're so bloody expensive, it's probably the best single investment I've made aside from the DF-02 itself.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

04-16-2005, 11:44 AM

that's cool. Anyone else heard anything about this esc?

Mad Bout Aus

04-16-2005, 08:32 PM

Sheetmetal should work for the bracket, although if it's steel it might be a bit heavy. I was using 3mm aluminum before I got to the point where I realized I wouldn't be able to drill a straight enough hole. FWIW, I believe the holes need to be 3mm diameter with 2mm of distance between each other in order to fit the rear damper mounts.

Hey guys I've just made up some of these brackets your chattin about (alas not so neat!!!). The center of the holes are 5mm apart. The bolts I'm using are 3mmW shaft so a 3.2mm drill bit works great, and I think it was a 2.6mm bit for the holes before being taped out.

I would say Baka's idea is lighter than this one but OMG the rear is oh so firm now :D Going to have to make some more and bring the shock back in a 'lil.

Also I worked out that the max ight (without dremmled cups) is 33mm FYI

MAD

taladas

04-18-2005, 02:32 PM

Hey all,

I seem to have misplaced (or lost) the manual for the ESC that came with my Gravel Hound. Any idea where I could get one online? Would it be inapropriate to ask someone to scan it and send it over?

I know the Tamiya website says to contact my local distributor n' stuff, noone seems to have it. I guess they don't wanna bother with "low end" stuff like this, I dunno...

I would really appreciate any and all help. Thanks a bunch!

Dany

bakabaka

04-19-2005, 02:57 AM

Hi taladas!

It might not be possible to scan it due to copyright entanglement, however I can write a description if there's a process you need from the manual. Oddly enough I actually just started using the ESC again. We bought a Wild Willy 2 kit this weekend that came with a MSC and ended up putting the TEU-101bk in instead.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

04-19-2005, 03:37 AM

Hi taladas!

I've documented what are probably the two most common things you'll want to know about the TEU-101BK speed controller in the DF-02 FAQ I'm maintaining. It's not a manual per se, but should get you running if you're trying to change the settings. Hope this helps!

Setting up the TEU-101BK:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/index.php?sid=383&lang=en&action=artikel&cat=7&id=24&artlang=en

Disabling the reverse function of the TEU-101BK:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/index.php?sid=383&lang=en&action=artikel&cat=7&id=25&artlang=en

Have fun! :)

Mad Bout Aus

04-19-2005, 08:24 AM

Hey there guys :D As lost posted I've managed to recreate the bracket from the pic that Baka entered. My bro said he has a mate how has a laser cutter, and I'm going to see him in a few days about making some "neater" brackets than mine. just wondering if anyone would be interestedin them? I can also get the bolts needed as well so could propably set up a 'lil kit of sorts.

Any feedback would be good!
MAD

Mad Bout Aus

04-19-2005, 08:28 AM

Hey Taladas this might help although its a bit hard to read!:

http://www.cx4.de/rc/gh_manual/

Cheers
MAD

taladas

04-19-2005, 11:18 PM

I've documented what are probably the two most common things you'll want to know about the TEU-101BK speed controller in the DF-02 FAQ I'm maintaining. It's not a manual per se, but should get you running if you're trying to change the settings. Hope this helps!

Thank you so much for this, bakabaka! MadAboutAus too! You guys are really great on here! And your site is really cool, bakabaka!

Very helpful indeed, even though I found the manual at last... thanks again!

I've only had my GH since August last year (upgraded to ball bearings before I even took it out for the first time!), and only played around with it a few times before winter came. I absolutely LOVE IT even though I am fairly new at this game.. :) But now that spring is almost here, I want to have everything ready to go, so I can become less of a newbie. :)

I therefore hope you guys can maybe help me out again with the following:

Last night I bought a new motor, a Peak Racing Dynasty 19T Spec. The guy at the shop said it would make the car a lot faster, give it better acceleration, etc. He also said that the TEU-101BK will handle it, but then I read on bakabaka's website that it will only handle down to 23T.

Was I mislead? Or should I say ripped off? :) If so, I hope he'll exchange it for another motor that my ESC can handle.. any recommendations? Unfortunately, I won't be able to afford a new ESC--something good anyways--for a while. I know that good ones run at over $150. Do any of the manufacturers offer a good ESC/motor package?

Thanks in advance guys,

Dany

bakabaka

04-20-2005, 01:16 AM

Hi taladas!

Glad you like the site. I'm a newbie myself, so I'm using the FAQ to keep track of everything I'm learning about the hobby. I'm glad others are finding it useful too.

About the motor/ESC... The turn limit on the ESC is based on an estimate of the number of watts a motor with that number of turns would be likely to draw. If you go below the turn limit, you run the risk of frying your ESC. That being said, I've heard of a few people pushing this ESC with slightly lower turn motors for a while. It was mostly on 2wd vehicles though, where power draw is lower. I've heard of people frying them too.

If you want to stick with the stock ESC, Tamiya makes a 23 turn motor that should work without problems. It's called the "Sport Tuned" motor and should be fairly easy to locate online. Otherwise the following ESC would work with the motor you purchased. It costs about $40 from Tower Hobbies shipped, and has reverse function. It works down to 18 turns, so you'd have a good safety margin:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGZX1&P=ML

You might want to check your local hobby shop as well to see if they have/can get it for a good price.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

04-21-2005, 06:54 PM

This is the esc that I'd useTempo 11 (http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/159131.asp) . Also I've heard of people using a 19t in the stock esc.

bakabaka

04-23-2005, 02:32 AM

taladas

04-23-2005, 08:36 AM

Well, I just cleaned and greased the differentials, and re-applied teflon tape to all the loose joint areas on the chassis. This Sunday I'll actually be able to take it to an offroad track, albeit a distant one. Hopefully there are a lot of interesting jumps and such to go over there. Anyone else taking their DF-02 out this weekend?

Have fun! :)

Heh.. I really wish I could! I had the day off work yesterday so I did the same as you, baka.. but yesterday afternoon it started to rain, it's still raining now, and it will keep raining for the better part of next week. At least that's what the weather geniuses predict. Welcome to Toronto, Canada.

Oh well.. not much I can do about it, except start filling in my immigration forms to move to Brisbane, Australia... don't have to worry about this kinda crap there, or at least not as much.

Anyways.. you have tons of fun baka, and everyone else who can go out this weekend!

Dany

bakabaka

04-23-2005, 12:38 PM

D'oh... It's actually raining sporadically here today also, in supposedly sunny California. I used to live in Oswego, NY, which is on the opposite end (southeast corner) of Lake Ontario from where Toronto is. Same rain-filled weather as I recall. It can and does clear up eventually though, at least it's not snowing ;)

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

04-26-2005, 02:04 AM

Well, turns out the dirt track at this particular hobby shop is still closed for the season. Perhaps it'll open next week. Anyone else faring better? :)

Have fun! :)

UK Hound Basher

04-26-2005, 05:10 AM

Hey ..Been away for a while gonna get back to pimpin out my GH... Any news on where to obtain a GH bodyshell or an RS will do thx.

Got a 13 turn orion motor need to solder the dean connectors on it ..! But I hope I can control it :D :D

I managed to get a set of Evader shocks on it ..looks pretty neat post pics soon .

jimbo_style

04-26-2005, 06:25 PM

thinking about a new ESC: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGNG5&P=ML
wondering
1:what would a good motor be
2:do I have to solder anything??

vegasdrift

04-26-2005, 08:23 PM

With that esc. This motor (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAJ4&P=7) looks like a good choice.

bakabaka

04-27-2005, 03:57 AM

Hi UK Hound Basher!

Sent you a PM about the body shells. As for the motor, sounds cool! The GH handles the Novak SS5800 without a problem, as long as you don't turn hard while it's floored. Not that I'd know anything about that, no sir. :D The 4 wheel drive and strong differentials seem to be able to handle pretty much anything you can throw at it, and transfer it to the road/dirt quite efficiently too.

If you haven't yet, now might be a good time to upgrade the center driveshaft to a metal one though. The plastic one is apparently rather strong, but better to not have to worry about it. Universal shafts are probably a good idea too, the stock dogbones just twist too easily. I ended up trying to bend them back when they were off by about 120 degrees, but they were no longer straight and the metal fatigue just made them twist easier. I've also found that universals don't bind when the vehicle is raised higher.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

04-27-2005, 04:23 AM

Hi jimbo_style!

Both the ESC you're looking at and the motor vegasdrift recommended are pre-wired with bullet-type connectors, so you won't need to do any soldering. According to Novak's website, this particular ESC's warranty is actually void if you change either the motor or battery connectors:

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/esc/xrs/xrs.html

Have fun! :)

rallyfanmx

04-27-2005, 07:08 PM

Hey all.

Just finished the assembly of my Rising storm, all that´s left is paint in the body. Got one question, though

The aluminum tape is supposed to protect the body from the heat coming out of the SC, right? I used the one shipping with the car, a Tamiya model. I used a Futaba AM radio, and since the servos are the same as Tamiya's, I assembled the radio tray the way the manual shows for a Tamiya setup

Obviously, the receiver and the SC are now almost rigth in the middle of the car, and I wonder if the aluminum tape should be relocated also?

Yeah, I´m a newbie at this, so don´t laugh too hard..

bakabaka

04-27-2005, 11:17 PM

Hi rallyfanmx!

On my "Expert built" RTR it came stuck to the part of the shell that's next to the servo arm when the body's on. Basically, where the servo arm would hit the body if it went too far to (the buggy's) right. I figured it was there to prevent scraping, since I could see no other reason for it where it was. As there was no documentation of why or wherefore though, I'm not certain.

I ended up putting it in the same place on the Rising Storm body that I bought too. FWIW, they're not kidding when they say you should paint it lightly and let it dry. I really messed it up :p Thankfully, Tamiya's stickers/decals made it look good when it was finished.

Have fun! :)

rallyfanmx

04-29-2005, 06:12 PM

:rolleyes:
Thanks Bakabaka!!

I'll begin my fist ever paint job this weekend, on my Rising Storm. I´ll try not to mess up to much...

I'll let you know how it goes from a rookie point of view.

Regards!!

Carlos :D

taladas

04-30-2005, 12:36 PM

Hi baka, everyone...

I finally had a chance to take the GH out for a spin on the baseball diamond by my house. Some remarks and questions:

- The stock ESC handled my new (Peak Racing Dynasty 19T Spec) motor pretty well; it didn't get too hot or anything, so yea. I guess the guy at the shop was right that if I put a 16t pinion gear in there it should be OK. I won't go back to the 19t pinion until I can actually afford a new ESC. One question here, something I still don't understand: why does the motor have to be mounted in a different position (i.e. using the diagram for part A5) when a lower tooth-count pinion gear is used? To me, it doesn't seem to do anything...

- I didn't like the way the new Dirt Hawg tires handled off road. I mean it was cool that it spun around two or three times on a break, but still, too little control, I thought. On the other hand, I drove it on pavement for a few minutes too, and I liked these tires a lot! (I had to get new tires 'cuz the original ones were almost completely bald, plus I wanted to get some street tires anyway. They didn't have spiky tires, so I got these; the guy said they would handle off-road rather well... I guess not.)

- Baka, I tried to use your trick with the motherboard spacers for the shocks, but the tread (sp?) on the ones I have is different, so I'll have to find some other ones. Or maybe I wasn't putting them in the right place? :) Do you have a picture of where you have yours?

- One last (related) question, on shocks. I opened mine up so I can put some heavier oil in there. Then I couldn't remember if, when re-filled and sealed, and the shafts pushed in, they were supposed to back out fully. So I called one shop to ask them and they said no.. it's OK for them to come out a couple of milimetres, but they should stay there. For some reason, this didn't sound right, so I called another place, and they told me the exact opposite (i.e. that they're supposed to act like they are spring-loaded)! ARGH! So what's the right answer?

Thanks guys! Enjoy the weekend and bash hard! (I can't.. it's supposed to rain all weekend again... :( )

Dany

bakabaka

04-30-2005, 02:05 PM

Hi taladas!

Cool that the ESC handles the motor, I may end up trying that in the Wild Willy. About the motor mount, it affects how close the pinion gets to the spur gear. If it's too loose you could end up stripping the gears.

The Dirt Hawgs certainly aren't for racing, but they seem to last forever. I'm still running on the ones I got shortly after buying the Hound, and they're still in very good condition. This is driving on a mix of dirt, a healthy amount of asphalt and every other surface I've subjected them to. Better to get another set of wheels and tires so that you can put pin spikes on them if you want better grip in the dirt.

The motherboard spacers are different on the bottom, but the top is very close if not the same. I always use a bit of teflon tape on parts like that to ensure that they don't pop out during heavy bashing, which might mask the issue. Liquid thread lock would probably do the same. There are pictures here:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/camera/gravel-hound/suspension-mod/

The dampers are not supposed to spring back out without the springs being on. They might spring back a little bit due to built up pressure against the piston, however they are intended to provide a damping effect. Damping is basically "anti-springiness", and is useful for keeping the car from bouncing around too much.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

05-01-2005, 12:25 AM

I finally got to take the Gravel Hound to a track, Hobby World in Gilroy, California. There were quite a few nice jumps, several in rapid succesion. It was a bit dusty, not that that's necessarily a bad thing. Lots of dust clouds, and quite a few of them were my doing ;)

The one thing that I noticed was the screws holding the back camber links were loosening by themselves. I lost the rear outdrives a few times due to them coming out completely. Front wheel drive definitely does not suit the DF-02. This might have something to do with the standoff suspension modification, but I'm quite happy with that so another solution was needed.

To fix the problem, I ended up buying some bushings and used 3mm machine screws to hold the rear camber links on instead. For those interested they were Team Xray C-Hub bushings, part number 302290. I had to press fairly hard to get them in, but the rear wheels seem much tighter for it. I definitely look forward to taking it out again, and I might end up getting bushings for the front suspension. Possibly the steering too, although the aluminum steering arms might be a better idea. I keep telling myself I need to pick them up...

Have fun! :)

jimbo_style

05-01-2005, 12:07 PM

bakabaka

05-01-2005, 01:21 PM

I recently converted my rising storm to rwd and wow am I impressed. higher top speed, great fun to drive, and battery (3000mah) lasted 35 mins of continuous use. However, when bashing, car just stopped and made whirring noises so i took it home and found that the pinion gear had dislocated itself from the motor. No big deal, i reconected it, but now it makes a high pitched noise when I drive it and the battery life is only about 10 mins

any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi jimbo_style,

That's interesting, how is the handling with only RWD? I imagine it must take a bit of a hit. As for the whirring sound, perhaps the pinion needs to be replaced. If you have another .6 module pinion kicking around, you might want to try it and see if the noise goes away.

Have fun! :)

Eotz

05-02-2005, 03:23 PM

Hi.

I bought 53791 DF-02 Assembly Universal Shaft for my DF-02 but I have a problem, the 53790 Cup Joint for Universal Shaft and 53806 TT-01 Ball Differential Cup Joint for Universal shaft don't fits in the front One Way (Ref. 53671). Anyone knows if there exist any Cup Joint for Universal Shaft and One Way?.

Thanks. :cool:

bakabaka

05-02-2005, 05:21 PM

Hi Eotz!

I'm not sure, since I haven't seen anyone advertising them. I do know that at least Tobee's universal joints work with the stock cup joints, and probably the one-way's cup joints too. Square RC universals might work as well, but I'm not sure since I don't have a set handy to test. If you find out a part that does work, I'd be happy to add it to the FAQ.

Have fun! :)

Eotz

05-03-2005, 01:50 PM

snud

05-03-2005, 03:18 PM

hey eotz....
ive used both tobee crafts ujs and rc-squares ujs....
in my personal opinion i think that the rc-square ujs are better crafted and more lightweight....
here is a link for them if u are interested..

rcsquare ujs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5964247296&rd=1

tobee craft ujs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5923219809&rd=1

bakabaka

05-04-2005, 12:34 AM

Cool, from the pictures it looks as if the Square UV joints are basically of the same design as the Tobee UV joints. They should work fine with the standard cup joints. For my purposes the lower cost of the Tobee parts was more important, but the Square ones do look nicer.

Have fun! :)

Eotz

05-05-2005, 05:21 AM

Hi.

I asked to the Tamiya's local Dealer about the Joints and he has just answered to me. If you want to use the TT-01's 53671 Front One Way with the 53791 DF-02 Assembly Universal Shaft, you should use 53590 Joint Cups.
The Joint Cups for the AUS are smallers than stock joints, so they are more precise. I'll recive the new joints in about 10 days. I'll tell you about there once I mount they on my car.

Bye :cool:

TipsyMcStagger

05-06-2005, 12:51 AM

Great thread guys…I just spent several hours reading through much of it.

A little background…I’m just starting to get back into the hobby after a 20-year break. My parents recently found my old Frog in their basement while packing to move. I’m in the process of educating myself how to best go about restoring the Frog into a durable runner (it’s going to take a while to find a Thorp differential for a reasonable price) so for the time being, I’m thinking I might buy a Rising Storm kit.

Here’s my question; what hop-ups would you install from the get-go? In other words, which hop-ups are “must have” and would be most easily performed/installed while constructing the basic kit? I know for certain steel ball bearings are one. How about Tobee universals? Ball differential?

I’m going to go with the stock motor and ESC initially to keep the start-up cost down. And also so I have a basis of comparison for future improvements. It’s not nearly as fun to go really fast from day one if you don’t realize how much faster you’re actually going!

Anyway, thanks in advance for the information and advice. I’ve learned a lot tonight.

And bakabaka, you’re FAQ is really very helpful. Thanks!

Tipsy

bakabaka

05-06-2005, 01:36 AM

Hi TipsyMcStagger!

Aside from the bearings, the differentials, a 63t spur gear and a stronger driveshaft are probably early upgrade candidates. They're amongst the most difficult parts to replace on the buggy once it's fully assembled, and the 63t spur with the 19t pinion seemed to be a sweet spot for the stock motor. None of the parts are terribly difficult to replace mind you, but these ones take the most work.

As for the universals, I recommend them very highly. The stock dogbones aren't all that strong when an upgraded motor is put in, and you'll notice the improvement when you're steering. They aren't terribly difficult to replace though, so the other parts should probably be purchased first if you want to add them with the least difficulty. Snud is right when he says the Square RC ones are better, but two sets of Tobee universals can be purchased for a few bucks more than one set of Square RC universals. You need two sets to complete the car, since I just bash around Tobee parts are good enough for my purposes. If you want to race though, go for the Square RC parts.

One last note, the Square RC carbon fiber front shock tower is an excellent upgrade from the stock plastic one. It gives you an extra adjustment hole, located probably where the shocks should have been mounted to begin with. Definitely worth the money.

Have fun! :)

paulicat

05-06-2005, 10:05 AM

Hi all,
This is one of the best internet threads I've ever read through!
Now, what does my subject mean? Well, after reading TipsyMcstaggers reply, I couldnt help but laugh, because it was only a week ago that my Mother found my 18 year old Marui Ninja in her basement, and asked me if I wanted it or if she could toss it out! So I picked it up from her, spent a week restoring the Ninja, only to have the trasmission melt in the first 3 minutes of the first run!
So, now that I was hooked again (though short, 3 minutes was enough to remind me how much fun RC bashing was!) and now freshly without a car, I searched and found this thread.
After 5 hours of reading, I knew I found the car that would replace my melted Ninja. I am currently nearing the end of the build (taking my sweet time!) and will post pics as soon as she's done.
Tipsy, go out and get a Gravel Hound/Rising Storm asap! What a great car to build!! The old stuff (though wonderfully nostalgic) just doesnt compare to the new stuff...
I just wanted to share my (not so unique) story, and thank everyone who contributed to this amazing thread!! Way to go guys!!

paulicat

05-06-2005, 12:22 PM

I've just assembled all 4 stock dampers, and I'm noticing something funny with my 2 front dampers...without the spring attached, when I push the piston up, there seems to be some "pressure" pushing the piston back out. I checked for air, but didnt see anything. The rears do not exibit this behaviour.
I am using the one hole piston(?) on all 4 dampers, and the stock oil.
Has anyone seen this on their stock dampers?
Or can anyone suggest something to check?
Thanks in advance!

snud

05-06-2005, 01:41 PM

paulicat....that rebound ur observing is ok, thats the action of the bladder reforming to its original concave shape within the shock body....
i would check your rear shocks again just incase.....

paulicat

05-06-2005, 01:51 PM

Oh! So a little bit of rebound without the springs is normal, so in my case the fronts are working correct and the rears are not? Opps!
Thanks for the info, and I'll recheck the rears...I'll post an update when I finish her off.

Hound in Oz

05-06-2005, 09:27 PM

Hi everyone,

Got my gravel hound last week, my first ever RC car. I have fully ballraced it and put in a 19t venom fireball motor, it goes quite well.

I was tearing up my local bmx track yesterday and I unfortunately ran into a car gearbox and bent the front shock tower, it is still ok but I guess it will bust sooner rather than later.

I was wondering where I could find those square rc carbon front shock towers, if anyone could help?

Bakabaka I have tried that modification with the motherboard spacers it works very well thanks, although im finding it tends to filp a bit more when landing from jumps. Is the rear end under dampended or too tightly sprung? Some help with this would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

bakabaka

05-06-2005, 10:34 PM

Hi Hound in Oz!

The shock towers are often on ebay, here's a current auction for one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5971471060&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

The rear towers are available too, but they're just a strengthening brace. If I ever end up breaking the rear shock tower, I'll probably get one. It doesn't seem in any danger at the moment, the rear tower's a fairly solid piece of plastic.

As for the shock absorbers, I found that medium springs in the rear and 50wt oil works rather well. I only had 3 weights of oil to test, there may be a better combination. It handles jumps nicely in my case. For racing of course a lower profile's probably better. Incidentally, I'm using the aluminum hop-up dampers from Tamiya. I'm not sure how the CVA ones would respond to similar configurations.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

05-08-2005, 07:47 PM

Hi snud,

Did you ever end up trying the suspension mod? Just curious as to how it worked/didn't work for you. Bounding over obstacles any better? :D

Have fun! :)

snud

05-09-2005, 05:21 AM

hey bakabaka,

didnt end up using it.....havent actually done any rcing for a while now....exams looming around the corner!
thanks for sharing the mod though! im sure it'll work great!

paulicat

05-09-2005, 09:22 AM

Hi everyone,
Thanks for the info snud, I rechecked my rears, and they had the same rebound as the front, I guess I just missed it during build...
I have finished the build, but I cant seem to upload an image, it just hangs at uploading file forever...

taladas

05-09-2005, 09:33 AM

Hi taladas!

Cool that the ESC handles the motor, I may end up trying that in the Wild Willy. About the motor mount, it affects how close the pinion gets to the spur gear. If it's too loose you could end up stripping the gears.

Hey baka!

I think I'm still confused regarding the motor mount. If I understand you correcty, you are saying that depending on which two holes on the motor mount I use, the pinion gear is closer or farther from the spur gear, right? My question is: closer in what way? Do you mean like in the way the teeth of the two gears lock together?

Thanks and sorry for all the newbie questions!

Dany

bakabaka

05-10-2005, 02:50 AM

taladas

05-10-2005, 01:03 PM

Hi taladas!

That's closer as in proximity. If you use a differently sized pinion or spur gear, you need to adjust for the differences in gear sizes. The different mount points each cause the motor and pinion to be mounted at a different distance from the spur gear. If they're too tight there will be a lot of drag on the transmission as the gears grind. If they're too loose, the edges of the gears will wear out quickly and may strip out.

Have fun! :)

Ah, OK, now I understand... thanks Baka! :)

I smashed it up again on Sunday, but luckily I have the parts... I'm planning to make a video over the summer with my and my friends' cars. (There's my GH of course, a REVO, an Evader ST, a Mini-T and a totally hopped-up Savage SS.. should be fun! :) ) I'm still looking for a wireless camera though, which I can mount on the cars... any ideas? :)

D.

Eotz

05-10-2005, 05:12 PM

Hi.

Last sunday I race again with my Rising Storm. I won again but this time we were just 4 cars at the 4wd category and 10 at 2wd (I think that every body were to the beach :) ) so that wasn't a great victory :o . Only comment that we made the race of 6 minutes long, not of 5 as is usual. The car hasn't any problem to run with a 12X2 LRP motor for 36 minutes (6 races of 6 minutes each). But I just brokem the wing :rolleyes: in a jump. I'll try to get pictures of the third race in a few weeks.

Bye :)

bakabaka

05-10-2005, 11:33 PM

Hi Eotz!

Cool, even if it's only 4 others it's still a good win. Tamiya should sponsor you. ;)

Have fun! :)

Alex8027

05-10-2005, 11:52 PM

Hey all-

Sorry it's been a while. Just thought I'd let everyone know I haven't totally forgot about trying to model the chassis in CAD. Here's where I'm at right now. Need to refine some of the dimensions, and add the motor mount and rear gearbox, but it's coming along. I may finish the models for the front and rear shock towers first, and then finish the chassis.

BCEC

05-11-2005, 02:25 AM

Hi all,

Being new in RC, this thread has been extremely helpfull in many ways. We (son and me) bought our GH & Evader St in December 04.

Both was purchased with solely for the purpose of racing with the Evader on a club basis and then the GH on National basis. Here in South Africa we have a Tamiya off road class in Nationals which is basically an entry level class. 4 x Nats in a year of which the 3 best counts. The cars must be stock except any 27 turn motor can be used with bearings, and then any Tamiya hopups for the specific model.

I am proud to say that he is lying second at the moment after two meetings and is 4 points behind the leader. Keep in mind he is only 11 years old.(wish Tamiya would sponsor him)

The only hop-ups so far has been:
27 turn Trinity horspower pro - stock spur with 18/19 pinion
bearings
Bakabaka's motherboards stand-offs (front and back)
50W oil rear and 35w oil front
tt-01 aluminium drive shaft

I am waiting for the 67 spur hoping to improve the gear ratio.

I am still trying to figure out (from a previous post) how to sort out the steering slop. Don't really understand..... Bakabaka maybe you can help?

Being raced regurlarly we had only two breakages, the chassis broke at the rear gearbox (all the body slapping before Bakabaka's stand-offs was installed) and this past weekend the front shocktower.

Just want to thank everbody for there input and hopefully we have a Gravel Hound National Champ in Tamiya Class at the end of the year. Maybe next year like Eotz we'll challenge (with a few hop-ups) the big guns in the 4wd stock class on club level!!!

Hold thumbs & Cheers to all.

paulicat

05-11-2005, 12:02 PM

That is great to hear! Your son must be one heck of a driver!!!
Quoting relayer from earlier in this thread BTW I discovered that if you want to remove slop and free up the steering a bit then 3mmx6mm flanged ball bearings fit into the stock steering bellcranks, you just have to replace the step screws with normal m3 screws and tighten them down just right.
Im waiting for my LHS to get these ballbearings in, but if anyone else has tried this, please let us know how much it helped. There definately is room for improvement in steering department...

rallyfanmx

05-11-2005, 12:55 PM

:cool: Not too bad for a first try, if I may say so...

What do you think?
http://mx.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/loroycarlos/detail?.dir=d69e&.dnm=6f1b.jpg&.src=ph
http://mx.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/loroycarlos/detail?.dir=d69e&.dnm=1439.jpg&.src=ph
http://mx.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/loroycarlos/detail?.dir=d69e&.dnm=7249.jpg&.src=ph

snud

05-11-2005, 04:54 PM

hey rallyfan!
that looks like a solidly built rs!!! well done mate!
dunno how long itll stay stock!

snud

05-11-2005, 04:56 PM

hey guys....
the best way to remove slop from the steering is to get the alumnium rcing set....its a bit pricey but is a quality piece of engineered aluminium,..
it tightens and smooths out the steering a lot...
u wont regret gettin them!

jimbo_style

05-11-2005, 05:18 PM

Ah, OK, now I understand... thanks Baka! :)

I smashed it up again on Sunday, but luckily I have the parts... I'm planning to make a video over the summer with my and my friends' cars. (There's my GH of course, a REVO, an Evader ST, a Mini-T and a totally hopped-up Savage SS.. should be fun! :) ) I'm still looking for a wireless camera though, which I can mount on the cars... any ideas? :)

D.

as for the camera, got myself a nice one off ebay for 25$ + shipping, should be able to find another like it

rallyfanmx

05-11-2005, 05:26 PM

:rolleyes:
Thank you snod. :D
The RS already has no plastic bushings, full ball bearings all over. I'm already looking for longer shocks and springs, to increase ground clearance, and the steering kit also.

Cheers!!

vegasdrift

05-12-2005, 12:00 AM

After a while of trying to find the car I wanted I've decided on the RS again. It's on sale at hobbypeople for $89.99 today. I should have it on friday.

Looks like I'll be able to use all the research I've done on the vehicle. I've just got one question. The kit comes with a clear body and wing right?

bakabaka

05-12-2005, 03:13 AM

Hi vegasdrift!

The kit does indeed have a clear body and wing. The RTR version comes pre-painted, but missing a few of the nice parts that you'll get in the kit form. Enjoy the kit, the buggy goes together very well. Wish I'd started my GH out that way, curse my laziness. :D

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

05-12-2005, 03:28 AM

Hi snud!

The aluminum steering may seem a bit pricey at first, but I priced the appropriate ball bearings on ebay. It seems the aluminum steering really is quite a deal after all.

Incidentally, I found an 8.4v battery pack on ebay that places the 7th battery diagonally above the stick pack. The same seller has some which are directly above one cell, which probably wouldn't fit. I may end up purchasing a set of the diagonally mounted ones, since it looks like they'll work with the stock battery strap in the DF-02.

Have fun! :)

BCEC

05-12-2005, 04:40 AM

Paulicat

The aluminium racing set is an option but we are staying in South Africa and unfortunately with the current echange rate it's going to cost me a hell of a lot of money, probably similar to what 250-300$ (1$ is cotsing me R6.00) would be worth in America. It can be imported but then its the transport and import duties.

I therefore obviously looking for a cheaper option as with the Bakabaka's PC Board standoffs. I will try and see if I can maybe find the bearings and at what price.

Cheers all

bakabaka

05-12-2005, 05:30 AM

Hi BCEC!

You can purchase the aluminum steering arms from ebay for relatively little money, the following URL has a set for US $24 plus $3 shipping. Even at an exchange rate of US $1 per R6.00, you're looking at R162. Are import duties truly that high? :eek:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5952059938&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

As for cheaper solutions, I've purchased some 4x6mm flanged tubes/bushings to use with M3 machine screws until I can buy the steering arms. I'm not 100% sure that they'll fix everything, but I can use the bushings elsewhere on the chassis even if they don't help at all. The tamiya part number for the bushings is 50593, I'll post my findings when they arrive.

Have fun! :)

snud

05-12-2005, 06:01 AM

hey baka...
im using an traxxas 7 cell emax matched pack on my hound.....
using velcro straps to hold the pack to the chasis...
7 cells is the way to go!
bcec...how much are import duties into south africa?
back home in kenya (im in the uni for university) the import duties didnt alter the price that much.....never could trust the post there though!

BCEC

05-12-2005, 07:06 AM

Hi,

Thanks Bakabaka, I notice shipping is 3% worldwide but at the lower down it states for "Available to United States only". I will however contact Jason's Stores directly and enquire on the actual shipping costs. In the end it would obviously be better to get the real thing..... Import duties is 14% of actual value, which I must admit is not to bad. I do however refer to Snuds comment regarding the post thing. I have recently lost a package from Tower Hobbies which was worth approx R1500.00, luckily reinbursed by them without any problem. Unfortunately the hole process took about 8 weeks which was not funny, especially with the second round of Nationals that was comming up. Now Tower will not use USPS again with any of my orders. I must pay a 25$ quoting fee for alternative courier options (which will apparently be much more than USPS) and only if the quote is accepted will I be reimbursed. On a large order that is fine but what if you want to order something which is worth only 25$? Minimum shipping charge on USPS is approximaly 15$ (from Tower) no matter how small.

Sorry for complaing, but it makes things difficult if you are running on a tight budget.

Cheers

paulicat

05-12-2005, 09:13 AM

Hi All,

A question for Snud, on page 16 (or so) of this thread you said the following the slack in the wheels in my hound was corrected using alumnium clamping hexes...
they seem to be a tighter fit for the wheel therefore reducing slack..
Can you give me some more details on what part you used, the wheel slack bothers me too!

snud

05-12-2005, 12:06 PM

hey paulicat...

i dont know what make or part number they are cuz one of my mates had a part set for his touring car.....i bought them off him.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5965827241&rd=1

check this link out....im not sure if they will fit the hound....but they should give a fair indication of what mine look like...

paulicat

05-12-2005, 02:01 PM

Hey Snud, thanks for the info, one question, would you happen to know which touring car your mate took yours off of? That would at least give me a model to match up with before ordering the wrong ones...
Thanks again!

bakabaka

05-12-2005, 05:04 PM

Hi paulicat!

The following clamping hub would probably suffice:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLV2&P=7

I'd recommend universals to further decrease the slop.

Have fun! :)

paulicat

05-12-2005, 08:13 PM

Thanks Bakabaka!
I'lll check my LHS before ordering online...
Maybe mine is peculiar, but 2 of my outdrives are pretty out of round...so it looks like that will be next after the clamping hex's...oh and the reason for the clamping hex's for me is two fold:
1: The slop
2: I lost a wheel nut (I guess it wasnt tight enough :rolleyes: ) and lost the pin too...thankfully, Tamiya includes extra pins. Well, that ticked me off that I lost two things instead of just the one and figured there had to be better replacements for the stock plastic hex's.
I hope I'm right in thinking that the clamping hex's will prevent (it wont happen twice! But you never know!) me from losing the pins should the wheel come off again!
Thanks for everyones input!!

vegasdrift

05-12-2005, 10:01 PM

Has anybody tried using proline and other company 4wd 10th scale buggy tires on their df-02? They look like they'd be better for racing over the rally tires and stockers.

TipsyMcStagger

05-12-2005, 10:09 PM

Has anybody tried using proline and other company 4wd 10th scale buggy tires on their df-02? They look like they'd be better for racing over the rally tires and stockers.Check out bakabaka's FAQ (http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/index.php?sid=&lang=en&action=show&cat=3) for lot's of useful info.

Tipsy

vegasdrift

05-12-2005, 10:46 PM

I should of none to ckeck there.

Hound in Oz

05-13-2005, 03:49 AM

Hi all,
I was pulling my hound down for a a service and I noticed the dogbones are twisted badly, almost 90 degrees.
I only have a 19t motor but that seems to be enough to twist them, although it may have something to do with always flooring it on concrete :)
Anyway I was wondering about upgrading to uni shafts, Do I need to buy any other parts to make the unis work or just them alone? which brand? and where in Australia? or will I have to order them?
Thanks.

bakabaka

05-13-2005, 04:53 AM

Hi Hound in Oz!

Dogbone twist is a pretty common issue with the DF-02. The dogbones aren't quite up to the abuse of a more powerful motor. Luckily there are three different sets of universals that you can choose from.

Tamiya's universals for the DF-02 come in two parts, to allow for them to be used with the TT-01 chassis as well. Tobee and Square by contrast make universal shafts that attach to the standard outdrives. Tobee is by far the cheaper of the two, but Square makes top-notch parts that are nicer looking and should be stronger. I have a full set of Tobee universals and outdrives on my DF-02, and they suffice for the task. If you aren't on a budget for RC equipment though, the Square universals and outdrives do look really nice. They also seem thicker, so they should last longer than the Tobee universals.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

05-13-2005, 05:07 AM

In case anyone is interested, it seems Square has two new products on their website for the DF-02. I've updated the Square RC hop-ups entry in the FAQ. The parts consist of an aluminum crankshaft (about time!) and aluminum damper endballs. Not sure what the endballs are for just yet, I have to learn a few more kanji before I understand it all. I'll probably end up cheating and just ask my wife...

Also, I ended up getting the issue of R/C car that has the review of the Gravel Hound in it. They mention that the uprights in the DF-02 are the same as those in the TT-01. If this is the case, then the aluminum TT-01 uprights/knuckles made by both GPM and Square should also be compatible with the DF-02. I will probably end up getting a set of the GPM ones to try them out, at about $12 I think it's worth the risk that they might not work.

Have fun! :)

taladas

05-13-2005, 11:07 AM

Also, I ended up getting the issue of R/C car that has the review of the Gravel Hound in it.

Hey Baka,

Which issue is that? The latest?

D.

bakabaka

05-13-2005, 11:21 AM

Hi taladas,

No, it's the April 2005 issue. They don't really say much that hasn't been said here, aside from a listing of the parts that are identical to the TT-01.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

05-13-2005, 12:15 PM

To those that race, what weight diff oil are you using in the front and rear diff?

I can't wait, My dad is picking up my RS today while I'm at school(where I'm at right now). Hopefully, I'll have it built by Sunday so I can take it to the track.

TipsyMcStagger

05-13-2005, 06:28 PM

Okay…I’m being my typical an*l self, so I'm still doing a bunch of reading before I place an order. I’m trying to order everything I need in one shot…Rising Storm, Futaba 2PL (will use with my Frog too), extra wheels (HPI) with Dirt Hawg 1 tires, bearings, etc.

One thing I just realized is I haven’t given any thought to the battery. It looks like this forum suggests 7.2V is the way to go. Since I plan to place one big order from Tower (I’ll get the Tobee universals and Square front carbon damper stay through eBay), can anyone recommend a good, cost effective battery that will fit the DF02?

Do all batteries come with a common connector or do different brands vary?

I know this is such a basic element, but again, I’ve been out of this gig for 20+ years!

Thanks again.

Tipsy

taladas

05-13-2005, 07:44 PM

One thing I just realized is I haven’t given any thought to the battery. It looks like this forum suggests 7.2V is the way to go. Since I plan to place one big order from Tower (I’ll get the Tobee universals and Square front carbon damper stay through eBay), can anyone recommend a good, cost effective battery that will fit the DF02?

Do all batteries come with a common connector or do different brands vary?

Hey Tipsy,

When I got my GH last year, the guy at the store said that the Peak Racing 2400mAh two-pack is good for starters, so that's what I got. Cost me $50CAD, and they each last about 15-20 minutes with my 19T motor. depending on where I bash. With the stock motor they would last about 20-25 minutes. Mind you, I was on a bit of a budget when I got the car... If you are not, I would say get some 3000mAh ones, or, even better 3300s.. :) Those cost quite a bit though.

I believe all batteries come with the same connector, but I'm sure someone will correct me if I am wrong. :)

Don't forget to get a good charger. I have the Duratrax IntelliPeak Pulse charger, which has a very handy fast-charge function, plus a few others, like repeated discharge-recharge cycles for battery conditioning. I always discharge my batteries after bashing.. maybe that's why I haven't noticed any performance drop with them yet. This cost me about $80CAD, if I remember correctly. Here's some more info on it: http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxp4100.html. A full manual, which explains all the features is at: http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/dtxp4100-manual-v1_2.pdf. This is the low-end model, but it does the job.

I hope this helps. Being quite a newbie, I of course defer to those with a lot more experience, so comments are welcome! :)

Take care and bash hard!

Dany

TipsyMcStagger

05-13-2005, 08:33 PM

Don't forget to get a good charger. I have the Duratrax IntelliPeak Pulse charger, which has a very handy fast-charge function, plus a few others, like repeated discharge-recharge cycles for battery conditioning. I always discharge my batteries after bashing.. maybe that's why I haven't noticed any performance drop with them yet. This cost me about $80CAD, if I remember correctly. Here's some more info on it: http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxp4100.html. A full manual, which explains all the features is at: http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/dtxp4100-manual-v1_2.pdf. This is the low-end model, but it does the job.

I hope this helps. Being quite a newbie, I of course defer to those with a lot more experience, so comments are welcome! :)

Take care and bash hard!

Dany
Thanks for the info Dany. That’s another thing I need to give some though to. After reading your post, I dug through this box of old stuff my dad shipped to me. There’s an old Astro Flight AC/DC charger in here, but I’m not sure I trust it. It doesn’t have a discharge feature and there sounds like there’s something rattling around inside.

Great…you've given me more things to research ;) Guess I’ll be waiting until the end of the weekend before I order.

Anyone else want to recommend a charger?

TIA.

Tipsy

mattyboy

05-14-2005, 02:19 AM

Hi Guys, i found this forum whilst looking for a Rising Storm. I used to have the old Grasshopper and then a Boomerang many years ago and have just ordered the Rising Storm online. I'm way out of touch with the RC scene and wondered if anyone can answer me a few questions please...

Out of the box, what sort of speeds can the RS do?
What is the battery life like?
Is it OK for short mossy lawned areas?
What are the best upgrades to initially get and what difference will they make.

Sorry for the newbie questions, but as i say, i'm totally out of touch now and i'm way to tired to read through all these post right now!

bakabaka

05-14-2005, 02:46 AM

Hi TipsyMcStagger!

The connectors on most batteries are referred to as "Tamiya" connectors. There are a few other types commonly used with batteries, typical alternatives are PowerPoles and Deans Ultraplugs. The Tamiya connectors are inefficient and thus have a tendency to get hot during use. Sometimes the plastic of the connector can melt when used with very low turn motors. That being said, I'm still using Tamiya connectors and haven't had a problem with them yet.

As for the charger, I have an MRC Super Brain 959 charger. I can't complain about its functionality, it's capable of rapidly peak charging both NI-CD and NIMH batteries with reasonable adjustability, but the thing was getting quite hot after peak charging a battery. I ended up attaching a computer fan directly to the charger, which I powered with an old AC adapter I had lying around. I'll probably end up getting the 969 eventually, it can charge two batteries at once and has a fan already built-in. The 969 can also support Lithium chemistry batteries, which is something my current 959 can't do.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

05-14-2005, 02:59 AM

Hi mattyboy!

Not exactly sure about the speed, but for the other questions:

The battery life depends on the battery you get and the motor you use it with. I initially had a 1600 mah NI--CD battery, which seemed to last about 15 minutes with the stock motor. Lower turn hop-up motors will decrease the life for a given cell, and batteries with higher mah capacities will increase the amount of time you can run.

The buggy is more than sufficient for short mossy lawned areas; it'll probably tear them up in fact. With a bit more clearance, it can even challenge medium height grass. I've modified my gravel hound to ride a bit higher, it now seems to be capable of going just about anywhere (as long as that place is dry.)

Full bearings are the best initial upgrade. The aluminum damper set also brings a great improvement, since the stock suspension leaves a bit to be desired. Universal shafts are also a very good hop-up. I was able to raise my buggy higher since upgrading them, aside from the typical benefits one gains with universals.

Have fun! :)

mattyboy

05-14-2005, 03:18 AM

bakabaka

05-14-2005, 03:56 AM

Hi mattyboy!

Yes, and yes. Lower turn motors tend to be faster, all other components in the motor being of equal quality. They also tend to eat more electricity. If you are interested, I have a FAQ at the following URL that contains what I've learned about RC (more specifically, about the DF-02 chassis) over the past several months:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/

It's faster than reading the entire Gravel Hound/DF-02 thread, although I recommend that as well. Many people with far more RC experience have contributed excellent information to this thread over time.

Have fun! :)

snud

05-14-2005, 05:45 AM

hey`guys....

theres no point in getting 2400mah batteries anymore...
go straight to gp3300...ull never look back...

http://www.boomboombatteries.com/index.aspx

these are amazing batts....and very very reasonably priced...
i strongly suggest getting these instead...

rs speed outta the box using the stock silver can is about 18 mph....ull br craving for more speed straight away!

isuggest changing all ur connections to deans ultra plugs....the tamiya plugs will melt under heavier ampage load....and ull see an increased battery life...

have fun rcing guys!! it is truly rewarding

bakabaka

05-14-2005, 03:49 PM

Hi snud!

Since you've ordered from the Boom Boom Batteries company, do you know where they are based? I couldn't find any contact information for them on the site, aside from the order interface.

Have fun! :)

snud

05-14-2005, 07:27 PM

hey baka....

i think they're based in newyork, usa.
$34.99 for a 6cell assembled gp3300 pack with deans....
thats a bargain!!!
and the packs have good punch too!

snud

05-15-2005, 04:51 AM

oh...its a sad day for me!

im thinking of selling my hound to finance a b4.......
put a lot of work into it....hopefully will get a good price...
anyone interested? all the hop ups included...for a list...email me..

bakabaka

05-15-2005, 05:13 AM

Hi snud!

Thanks for the info on the battery company. Sorry to hear about the Hound, good luck with selling it.

Have fun! :)

TipsyMcStagger

05-15-2005, 08:35 PM

The 969 can also support Lithium chemistry batteries, which is something my current 959 can't do.I'm considering getting the 969 as it seems to get good reviews, but with regard to the above statement, I came across this:

MRC Super Brain 969 Pro Product Hazard Alert (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/MRC_%20969_Product_Hazard_Alert/m_2395447/tm.htm)

Tipsy

TipsyMcStagger

05-15-2005, 10:46 PM

Well, I decided I’ve done enough reading. I just ordered the Rising Storm, Futaba 2PL, HPI black Super Stars, Dirt Hawgs I’s, SS bearings, TT01 aluminum center shaft, TT01 metal motor mount, 67t Spur gear, 19T Robinson metric pinion gear and the MRC 969 charger.

The only thing I was reluctant about was the charger. I’ve been reading a lot (aka, confusing myself), but I decide to give the 969 a try. I considered holding off until the new Novak Ionic-D is available, but then I figured I might as well just order the MRC now. I’m a little dismayed that the charger is shipping separately from a different distribution center and indicates it will arrive nearly a week after everything else.

I also took Snud’s advice and ordered two of the 6 cell GP3300 packs from Boom Boom, although I stuck with Tamiya connectors for now.

I’m also going to order the Square front carbon shock tower and two sets of Tobee universals from Jason’s Store on eBay as soon as I can figure out how to place the order all at once for combined shipping.

Thanks again for all of the info. Two weeks ago I didn’t know about any of this stuff, so hopefully in a few weeks I’ll be able to post some photo’s of my runner!

Tipsy

vegasdrift

05-16-2005, 12:02 AM

I got my RS yesterday.Finally. I've been putting it together in my spare time. So far the only thing I don't like is that the shocks mount on ball cups. I'm on step 8.

Also, I believe I've found another part that is compatible with the df-02s. Just give me a few days to make absolutely sure.

bakabaka

05-16-2005, 12:48 AM

Hi TipsyMcStagger!

Thanks for the link about the 969, I'm quite surprised myself. I'm still going to get one for its capability of handling two battery packs at once, but I won't be doing it with Lithium cells. ;)

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

05-16-2005, 01:03 AM

Hi vegasdrift!

Oddly enough, on the RTR version all shock absorbers are mounted using 3x14mm step screws coupled with a plastic washer. Here's a link with a picture of the screws at tower since my description of them probably isn't very good:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGG81&P=7

I ended up using the ball cups when I upgraded to the aluminum dampers, although I haven't really noticed any difference due to the mounting method. You'll probably have a few extra step screws with your kit if you want to try mounting the shocks using those.

Have fun! :)

snud

05-16-2005, 05:13 AM

hey vegasdrift....

these are the perfect upgrade for u if u dont want ball cup shock mounts

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5972804610&rd=1

TipsyMcStagger

05-16-2005, 08:30 AM

these are the perfect upgrade for u if u dont want ball cup shock mounts

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5972804610&rd=1Okay, another newbie question. What are “ball cup” shock mounts and why is the Square hop-up and improvement?

Is this a matter or durability/strength? Performance? Appearance?

Thanks again!

Tipsy

paulicat

05-16-2005, 08:52 AM

Hi Tipsy,

Ball cups joints are two parts, first, the little brass balls (no pun intended!) that screw into the front and rear control arms and shock tower. Secondly, on the ends of the shocks, there are little loops (for lack of a better word), and these loops "snap" into the brass balls.
Now what people are complaining about with these connectors is that the shock can actually rotate a fair amount because the connector is not "solid" like a screw would be.

Sorry for the lame attempt at describing this, but I hope that helps...

vegasdrift

05-16-2005, 08:54 AM

I'll probably try mounting them with screws like how bakabaka posted. Maybe something from one of my other cars will work.

snud

05-16-2005, 02:35 PM

hey tipsy...

the ball bit from a ball/cup joint is the round headed screw that goes into your shock tower......the cup bit in the black plastic loop on the shock itself that snaps onto the round headed screw (ball)....sometimes under hard impact the lloop snaps off the ball screw....
they work much like a bone joint.....if u can imagine it....

the square hop up provides a retaining screw that goes through the ball headed screw....and the shock loop fit onto the rounded bit of the screw just like the stock set up....however the difference is that the retaining screw keeps the shock from popping off during hard landings...collisions etc.....

the square hop up would be a good idea for racers of serious bashers because the shock stays on even during hard landings...

snud

05-16-2005, 02:37 PM

heheh oops...sorry paulicat...u answered it while i was posting....
heheheh...ur description is probably better than mine!

paulicat

05-16-2005, 02:39 PM

LOL No problem Snud! I wasnt too sure about my description...so the forum gets two takes on the same part description, hopefully someone will make heads or tails out of at least one of them!

snud

05-16-2005, 02:44 PM

hehe..no worries paulicat!

i was just wondering.....has anyone thought of a carbon fibre chasis?

i know alex posted a cad drawing.....but i dont think itll be feasible with the enclosed transmission tunnel....

maybe even have an exposed prop shaft to keep costs down?
a flat chasis made of carbon fibre?

theres a company called fibre lyte which will cut 3-4 mm chasis if a cad drawing was provided....i dont know about the moulded tunnel section though....could get costly..

TipsyMcStagger

05-16-2005, 03:26 PM

the square hop up provides a retaining screw that goes through the ball headed screw....and the shock loop fit onto the rounded bit of the screw just like the stock set up....however the difference is that the retaining screw keeps the shock from popping off during hard landings...collisions etc.....

the square hop up would be a good idea for racers of serious bashers because the shock stays on even during hard landings...I see. Thanks for the explanation guys. I figured for an extra $10 I might as well toss them in with the other stuff I was ordering from Jason’s Store.

Incidentally, I find it interesting that Jason can ship to the US from Japan for $6, but no matter what you order from Tower, it cost $7.99 for S&H (unless you pay to join their club and then order $150 or more for free S&H).

The stuff I ordered from Jason is being shipped from Japan for less than the stuff I ordered from Tower, most of which is coming from the next state over!

Tower would probably get a lot more business if they got real about their shipping charges.

Tipsy

vegasdrift

05-16-2005, 08:24 PM

On tower, if you buy a quick ship item(You'll know if it is a quick ship item if it has a little green check mark next to it) then the shipping is only $3.99 for your entire order no matter what the weight/cost is.

TipsyMcStagger

05-17-2005, 10:53 AM

Alex8027

05-17-2005, 08:22 PM

Snud-

I'm working on a carbon fiber chassis as we speak. I plan on taking the stock chassis and cutting away a majority of the main chassis material and tunnel. I will use the front/rear gearboxes and stock motor mount. Once I purchase a band saw, I will cut out a prototype version of the chassis (most likely made of G10 fiberglass). It's looking to be sometime near the beginning of June. I've already cut out a replacement front shock tower out of G10, which is considerably stronger than the original.

Haruchai

05-17-2005, 10:07 PM

Wow! You guys make custom parts for your cars? I see people on here all the time doing that. Lots of talented people here.

snud

05-18-2005, 05:15 AM

hey alex....

thats wicked man!! let me know if ur interested in selling a chasis....
man...i wish i had some machine skills!

are u leaving out the tunnel? if so...maybe u should consider adding chasis braces? because the tunnel provided a lot of rigidity for the chasis...
just a thought..

Aluma

05-18-2005, 10:10 PM

hey guys! I mounted the proline crowdpleaser for the XXXN-T onto the DF-02 chassis! It fits perfect. All you need are the TA04 body mounts and 4 screws about 5/8" long.

Aluma

05-18-2005, 10:12 PM

here's a close up...looks awesome from this angle.

Aluma

05-18-2005, 10:16 PM

further away it looks like it was made for it., I did bend the body right behind the front wheel wells on both sides to act as rock deflectors from the front tires. I ran it outside on gravel and it barely had any rocks inside the chassis!
Cant wait to show up at the track! Hmm... you think the 2wd guys would get mad if they found out its a 4wd....:D

Alex8027

05-18-2005, 10:51 PM

snud-

The chassis will be a double-deck type - I have an idea of what I want to do, but I haven't drawn it up in CAD yet (starting to do that as we speak). Should remove the need to have a lot of the drive shaft tunnel; but I will probably retain "some" of the main tunnel for additional strength. As soon as I have something that I'm comfortable with, I'll post a pic of it. If there seems to be some genuine interest in it after I finish a "finalized" version, I might make a couple. I'll keep everyone posted on the progress.

Alex

bakabaka

05-19-2005, 04:47 AM

Hi Aluma!

Cool! I've added the information to the FAQ and attributed the information to you, if you don't mind. It looks quite nice, I might end up getting one of those bodies. How strong do the body mounts seem where they're mounted?

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

05-19-2005, 05:03 AM

I received two packages of Tamiya 4x6 flanged tubes/bushings today. I ended up putting them in the stock steering arms, along with the outer holes of the suspension arms on the side that meets the chassis. The suspension definitely feels tighter now. I also placed one washer against the bottom of the rear uprights, since they seemed to have a bit too much play. So far all the modifications seem to have had the desired effect. I'll have to wait until the weekend to be sure though.

Have fun! :)

Aluma

05-19-2005, 08:46 AM

They seem fine to me. Once the body is on, all 4 posts are held in place by the body so its like reinforcement for the shocktowers aswell. Besides, TL01, TT01, TB02,...come to think of it, all tamiya cars have body mounts on the front/rear shock towers. I never broke a TB01 shock tower ( or any other) cuz of the body post being attached to it...I used to LAUNCH the TB01 over the offroad track big jumps and land upside down sometimes without a problem. Well, I'll let ya know if anything breaks at the track.

TipsyMcStagger

05-19-2005, 09:50 PM

My Rising Storm kit arrived today but I haven't started assembly yet (still waiting on some parts to arrive). I’d like to do bakabaka’s standoff suspension mod (http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/camera/gravel-hound/suspension-mod/) from the get-go, so I set out today to find some motherboard standoffs. It seems all standoffs (at least the ones I could find) have a fine female thread that will accommodate the piston rod from the shock, but the male end has a coarse thread. I wasn't able to find anything with the same thread both male and female.

For those of you who have done this mod, were you able to find standoffs with fine threads both male and female or did you just thread the coarse end into the plastic ball cups (effectively forcing it in)?

Incidentally, I notice the front shocks are longer than the rear. Would using a set of piston rods from the rear shocks (MB11’s in place of MB10’s) in the front shocks provide the added length in lieu of using the standoffs up front? You’d still need the standoffs in the rear (unless someone knows of a Tamiya piston rod that’s longer than the (MB11), but I’m just thinking out loud.

Tipsy

bakabaka

05-19-2005, 10:39 PM

bakabaka

05-19-2005, 10:43 PM

Hi Aluma!

Cool, I launch the DF-02 all the time. Sometimes I land on the wheels, sometimes not. ;) Any modification I'd make would need to be strong enough to accomodate the occasional bad landing.

Have fun! :)

TipsyMcStagger

05-19-2005, 10:55 PM

Hi TipsyMcStagger!

I used the ones with coarse threads on the bottom. There are fine threaded ones, I have one (just one!) that's fine threaded on the bottom, but I had several of the coarse threaded ones in my toolbox and decided to give it a go. I don't think the ball cups come threaded to begin with, judging from how much fun I had putting the ball cups on the aluminum dampers' piston rods. I don't have a set I haven't put on the suspension shafts yet though, so I can't be sure.
Hey bakabaka!

I didn’t realize the ball cups weren’t threaded. That would make the thread issue moot.

I did however order the Square aluminum damper ball ends (STG-9), which I'm still waiting for, so I’m not exactly sure what that will mean for me. Since I haven’t built yet, I don’t have a clear picture of what pieces will remain when I install the STG-9. I believe they eliminate the plastic ball-ends. And since they're aluminum, I’d have to assume they’re pre-threaded, thus bringing me back to square one.

The rear shocks are a bit longer than the front, using the longer piston rods in the front might work out - not sure. The main difference would be more travel from the longer suspension shaft, but the travel would be wasted since the DF-02 would have already bottomed out. It's easy to do/undo the standoff modification at any time, but you might want to look into the other options. I'd be interested in your results.
Again, I think I can picture what your describing, but my lack of experience with the car leaves it a bit nebulous in my mind. I'll figure it out soon enough.

Thanks again!

Tipsy

bakabaka

05-20-2005, 03:41 AM

Hi TipsyMcStagger!

It doesn't replace the plastic cup ends, but rather replaces the pillow ball connectors that the plastic (resin according to Square) ends clip onto. You pop the cup ends onto metal shafts that have a slight convex surface to hold the damper cups in place. You then screw the shaft with the dampers attached onto the damper stay. That's what I gather from Square's description anyway, so the standoff modification should still work.

Have fun! :)