Tamiya Gravel Hound DF-02 Forum [Archive] - Page 4

vegasdrift

05-20-2005, 08:52 PM

Hey guys, How's it going? The compatible hopup that I refered to a few posts ago does fit. It is the Factory Team rear Truck/Buggy sping kit (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000689284&I=LXBVG0&P=K) I'm using them on the stock shocks. They are slightly smaller in diameter and are a little longer in length than the stock springs. I'm using the red springs on my buggy.

Aluma: Great job on the truck body.

Now, that I've finished building my buggy, I'm having motor heat problems. I decided to upgrade my motor and esc right from the get go. Now I'm using an 11*2 modified motor with the stock gearing and the motor and esc get really hot. Any suggestions on gearing?

Aluma

05-20-2005, 10:25 PM

dude, my 19T mod and esc are getting hot too, and thats cuz I have the alum motor mount, and lots of air coming thru with the truck body. I think its the stock gearing. It seems the motor can unwind more but the gearing wont allow it, so it overheats the motor, which I'm guessing makes voltage/heat havok with the ESC. I was running on asphalt and it would take off like a rocket, reach top speed really quickly and when I let go of the throttle, it would nose dive heavily. I was thinking "Now thats what I call engine braking!"

bakabaka

05-21-2005, 04:24 AM

The best bet is probably to get the full set of pinions that work with the 70t spur gear and find the one that works best for your motor. That is, the 16t, 17t, 18t and (if you want to replace the stock with a stronger version) 19t pinions. I've had good luck with Robinson Racing pinions, they're available from Tower Hobbies and probably other places as well. Note that you need metric/.6 module pinions, SAE pinions will not mesh properly with the spur gear.

Have fun! :)

mattyboy

05-21-2005, 06:14 AM

Took it out for 1 run (box standard) and my hop ups arrivided an hour later!
Just fitted full bearing kit, alloy rear uprights, 540 sport tuned motor, alloy damper kit, alloy racing steering. Also got universal shafts but didn't realize i needed a different cup joint :(
Just need to paint the shell and wait for the rain to stop. Will be interesting to see what difference the hop ups have made?

http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~1428mc/pics/rs01.jpg

http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~1428mc/pics/rs02.jpg

http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~1428mc/pics/rs03.jpg

Hound in Oz

05-21-2005, 10:01 PM

Hi all,
Im having trouble with the top of my shocks. Whenever it flips and slides on its top im grating the top of the shocks off. Is there anyway I can stop this from happening or do I have to keep buying the shock parts Y and W I think.
Thanks.

bakabaka

05-22-2005, 01:47 AM

Hi Hound in Oz!

I've been seeing the same issue, I've been thinking of putting the dampers back on the screws that came with the RTR and putting washers in front of them to protect the plastic loop. I have a pair of the Square RC ball ends on order though, it's possible that they might help as well.

Incidentally, the parts used by the hop-up aluminum damper set are different from those used by the CVA dampers that come with the kit. Tamiya's low friction dampener V parts tree has the necessary replacements.

Have fun! :)

Aluma

05-22-2005, 12:25 PM

guys, I went racing yesterday! I raced on the 05 roar nationals track....It was fun, did about 1000 cartwheels, landed upside down couple of times, the body posts and car help up great ( no breaks!) I do however need more ground clearance...

are the supernitro wheels/tire bigger than the stockers?

bakabaka

05-22-2005, 01:04 PM

Hi Aluma!

Great to hear the body modification holds up to some abuse. The super nitro wheels are the same diameter, assuming you're talking about the HPIs. The tires that I picked up, Dirt Hawgs, are larger and give a bit more ground clearance. I'm sure there are probably pin spike tires that are larger, but I haven't tried anything but the stock ones.

If that doesn't do the trick you could try the motherboard standoff modification I made to my hound. There have been quite a few posts about it here, but the URL in the FAQ follows:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/index.php?sid=515&lang=en&action=artikel&cat=6&id=22&artlang=en

And pictures here:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/camera/gravel-hound/suspension-mod/

Have fun! :)

mattyboy

05-22-2005, 01:11 PM

OK, so i painted the shell and gave the car and good run which was fun! The hop ups do make a difference... although i crashed it into the edge of a wall catching the rear tyre and snapped the chassis on the rear left just where the cup joint goes into the gearbox :(
Are there any stronger (aluminium??) chassis available for the DF-02?

microrcdude

05-22-2005, 01:42 PM

No, but i think theirs aluminum chassis braces.

bakabaka

05-22-2005, 01:44 PM

Hi mattyboy!

Ouch, that's quite a start! So far there's only the stock chassis, although if it's any consolation it can be had for about $10. Tower Hobbies has it, and it's eligible for Parts Express shipping ($3.99 instead of $7.) I've been thinking of getting an extra just in case, since mine has been scratched up so much during various bashing sessions it may just cave in on itself ;)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGYR0&P=7

There are also a few people looking into making a custom chassis themselves. Snud and Alex8027 have been tossing ideas back and forth on the topic here for a while now.

Have fun! :)

mattyboy

05-22-2005, 02:11 PM

Thanks bakabaka

I'm in the UK and don't want to wait for shipping. Just found one on ebay which i've snapped up (£8.99). Glad it wasn't to expensive :D

jimbo_style

05-22-2005, 02:17 PM

just wondering what the best way to lock the diffs would be, as well as the disadvantages of doing so

thx

mattyboy

05-22-2005, 02:20 PM

No, but i think theirs aluminum chassis braces.

Do you have any links for these?

snud

05-22-2005, 02:40 PM

hey jimbostyle....

i dont thinks its a good idea to lock the diffs......the diff allows the wheels to spin at different speeds therefore cornering is more efficient and better....

a locked diff wouldnt allow the wheels to spin at different speeds.....i think there would be huge oversteer....

locked diffs are great for rock crawling, cuz maximum torque is available to both wheels at all times...

what are everyones thoughts on this? i wouldnt lock the diffs.......it would ruin the handling.....i think..

snud

05-22-2005, 02:47 PM

hey matty boy....

i live in the uk too....london to be precise....
its a pain gettin things from abroad isnt it....

for parts for the df-02 chasis call the hobby company/.....they are tamiya's uk suppliers...
the number is 01908-605-686

or try www.tamiyaparts.co.uk

bakabaka

05-22-2005, 02:52 PM

Hi mattyboy!

Thanks bakabaka

I'm in the UK and don't want to wait for shipping. Just found one on ebay which i've snapped up (£8.99). Glad it wasn't to expensive :D

Cool, that's actually a large part of why I got the Gravel Hound. The guy at the hobby shop told me that I WAS going to break things on my first hobby-class RC. As long as that's the case, I figured I might as well get a durable buggy with inexpensive replacement parts. ;)

Oddly enough, the only things I've broken in all this time bashing it around have been one of the top damper ball cups on one side, and a plastic steering arm which cracked where it meets the turnbuckle. I have the aluminum steering arms and turnbuckle set on order, which should prevent the second issue in the future...

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

05-22-2005, 03:16 PM

Hi snud, jimbostyle!

If I were to lock a diff, it'd only be the rear one. The front wheels really do need to go at different speeds when steering. I have an extra set of differentials here, maybe I'll try my hand at locking one just to see what happens. I could probably just wedge something between the planetary gears to prevent them from spinning.

Have fun! :)

snud

05-22-2005, 05:43 PM

hey baka....

yeah i wouldnt lock the front ones...
if u lock the rear ones i think that the hound would act like the old solid axle rally cars of the 70s......tail happy...
electric touring cars often use a front spool...which acts sort of like a locked diff....and it improves steering..
hehhe its all very confusing.....
baka...if u can experiment...please do...it would be interesting to know the results..

jp1450

05-22-2005, 07:48 PM

Greetings All.....

I was hoping someone out there would be able to help me out with some troubleshooting issues with a Gravel Hound I received this past Christmas. It basically stayed in storage until last week, save running it around the rec room over the holidays. The snow was around here until early April, and I just though about getting the buggy out this past week!

Anyway, I am brand new to the hobby, and I've have had a bumpy start. I took the car out of storage, put new batteries in the controller and charged the battery pack for the car, but cannot get it to work. I have tried re-programming the ESC as per the instructions, but it still will not work. The wheels were turning left and right (not anymore, though), but the motor is not running in forward or reverse.

When attempting to reprogram the speed controller (all per the instructions), I noticed a couple of things. First, when I pressed the "set" button, the LED light next to it did not flash, as the instructions indicated it would. I continued through the series of steps for reprogramming, and it did not flash in any instance. Also, during the reprogramming process, I heard a slight hum or buzz coming from the car, which I could not associated with any specific movement or action I was taking during the reprogramming process.

Based on this, I started all over - I discharged and recharged all of the batteries and tried to reprogram the ESC again. This time, the LED flashed once when I turned the car on, but it did not work after than when I tried going the reprogramming process.

Being new to the hobby, I am a bit perplexed. I hope someone here in the forum might be able to give me some ideas on what we can do to get the car going. This car has seen less than 30 minutes of service, all of it indoors. Any ideas? I'm guessing the ESC is bad and will need to be replaced......

bakabaka

05-23-2005, 05:37 AM

Hi jp1450!

From the sound of things, you're probably right that it's the ESC. There is one test that ensures that the ESC is operating at least at a minimal level though.

The ESC produces an audible alarm from within the motor when it's turned on without the radio. Does the motor make a beeping sound when the radio is off? You'll want to ensure that the buggy's wheels are not touching anything - especially the floor - during this test.

Assuming the ESC isn't operational, I'd advise replacing it with a different model. The TEU-101BK is sufficient for driving motors 23 turns and higher, but when you want more speed you'll need something a bit more capable. Several people here have differing opinions on ESCs, my research has led to a few different possibilities:

OEM-MC330CR

This ESC can be found at ebay by searching for "OEM-MC330CR" and is a clone of the Futaba MC330CR ESC. It handles down to 13 turn motors and is very inexpensive. Not sure how reliable it is though.

Duratrax ESCs

Duratrax makes a full line of ESCs which are reasonably priced. The following URL at Tower has a list of their IntelliSpeed ESCs:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=duratrax+intellispeed&FVPROFIL=++&search=Go

Others will surely chime in with their favorites.

Have fun! :)

jp1450

05-23-2005, 08:01 AM

Thanks for the insight! I tried the test you referenced, and I get nothing..... no beep, no sound of any sort. I guess I will try a new ESC and see how that goes. Thanks again.

JP1450

Aluma

05-23-2005, 09:11 AM

for a new person... LRP AI series is perfect, turn it on, it sets itself up. :D

vegasdrift

05-23-2005, 07:55 PM

for a new person... LRP AI series is perfect, turn it on, it sets itself up. :D
I second that. The AI's aren't to expensive either.

I also like the m-troniks Tempo 11 esc. I'm using it now and it is working great. http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/159131.asp

jp1450

05-23-2005, 08:00 PM

vegasdrift

05-23-2005, 08:06 PM

I've found out that hobby people is having a sale for memorial day.
A pack of 4 5 by 11 mm bearing is selling for $2.99 (these fit in the wheels)
Also, promax 3000 nimhs are selling for $9.99
Trinity 3600 nimhs are selling for $19.99.
This (http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/130116.asp) wattage charger is $49.99

vegasdrift

05-23-2005, 08:12 PM

Thanks to everyone for your input on this! I have spent the day researching ESCs on the net. What are your thoughts on the DuraTrax line - specifically the DuraTrax IntelliSpeed Auto-Sport. It seems very resonable......
The reversible one might be ok. I wouldn't get the forward only one($22.99). You'll want reverse, especially if you're not on a track. Also I would look for an esc that handles hotter motors. You'll be happier in the long run when you get better. It's not always best to get the super cheap thing, especially if it's your esc. You'll want a somewhat more decent one.

vegasdrift

05-23-2005, 08:24 PM

If you're racing you'll want either a forward only esc or one with a reverse lock out.

Hound in Oz

05-24-2005, 03:45 AM

Hi all,
Im having trouble finding the HPI supersize wheels, the ones im looking for are part no 3030. My local hobby shops in Australia don't import them and I couldnt find them in tower hobbies either.
I would really like to try these wheels so if anyone knows where I could find them that would be great.
Thanks.

bakabaka

05-24-2005, 04:58 AM

Hi Hound in Oz!

If you don't mind grey, Tower Hobbies does have the Super Star wheels:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLV90&P=7

I'm running HPI's mesh wheels with Dirt Hawgs myself, both Tower and a local hobby shop have a fairly good color selection of these.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0004p?&I=HPIC3038

Have fun! :)

KREATOR1

05-24-2005, 01:14 PM

what shock oil weight best for the alumn tamiya shock?

vegasdrift

05-24-2005, 08:28 PM

It depends on the conditions you're running on. On what kind of terrain do you drive on?

KREATOR1

05-25-2005, 02:00 AM

mostly on gravel and sand.

Hound in Oz

05-25-2005, 02:30 AM

Hi all,
I have decided that I want more power for my gravel hound. It seems that the Novak brushless is the go from reading this forum. Ufnortunately no one imports them into Australia as yet. I want to order one from tower hobbies but I want to be sure exactly which model I need, or is best. If you could point me in the right direction here it would be most appreciated.
Thanks.

bakabaka

05-25-2005, 03:05 AM

Hi Hound in Oz!

I love my Super Sport/5800. It's fast enough that my buggy isn't passed on all sides by nitros in the straightaways, and aside from soldering I haven't had to do any maintainence other than giving it a bit of oil. I've heard the Novak 540 size motors are rather mild as brushless motors go, but the 5800 seems to be a good match for the DF-02 chassis. The only thing I didn't like was the power switch, so I ended up replacing that with one that fit the DF-02's switch mount.

Incidentally, Novak carries refurbished SS5800 units on their website. They're about US $60 cheaper than a new unit and come with Novak's warranty. I imagine they're probably just returns due to worn bearings, since that's one part (aside from the magnet) that probably will wear out on the motors.

One last bit, it seems Novak has a new speed controller that does both brushed down to 12t and brushless motors. It seems to have fewer settings, but it might be worth considering if you decide you want to use both brushed and brushless motors.

Have fun! :)

taladas

05-25-2005, 03:42 PM

Hi again, everyone!

Well, my front dogbones finally got twisted enough on Saturday that I had to get them replaced. The store that was nearby didn't have the Universals from Tamiya, so I just got the stock ones. (Pretty expensive too, at $15CAD for a pair!)

Now I'm thinking these will probably go as well in a couple of weeks or whatever, so I might as well get the upgrades instead. I know there's been a lot of discussion on here about which is better, etc... are the Tamiya ones--part number 53791--really not that great, and not worth the money? (No one in Toronto imports either Square or Tobee, at least not that I know.)

My other questions:

- Should I wait until I can actually afford Tobee or Square (and then wait again for them to arrive :)?

- Would you recommend that I replace front and back at the same time, or are the stocks fine for the back?

- If I do end up getting the Tamiya ones, do I need anything else? (I seem to remember someone writing that once they got these, they didn't realize they needed... something else... maybe I'm wrong.)

Many thanks,

Dany

bakabaka

05-25-2005, 05:09 PM

taladas

05-26-2005, 08:28 AM

Thanks Baka!

I guess I will wait for the Tobee Universals to pop up on eBay. Unless someone knows of a store whre they can be purchased right away?

Actually, on that note, I'm heading to Niagara Falls this weekend... anyone know of a good hobby shop in Buffalo, NY? (It should be easy enough to cross the bridge into the US.) Naturally, I'd be looking for one that carries Tobee parts.

Thanks guys! Bash hard!

Dany

bakabaka

05-26-2005, 12:53 PM

Hi taladas!

They're on ebay now, the following URL points to a current auction:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5978059758&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

The seller ships from Japan, so there would probably be some sort of import duty when it arrives. Note that the seller does ship worldwide, although shipping prices for locations other than the US aren't listed. I've purchased several items from this seller, and shipping was always quite fast.

Have fun! :)

Haruchai

05-26-2005, 01:07 PM

Ok, this might be a stupid question, but what is the difference between the Gravel Hound and the Rising Storm?

I also think I know the answer to this, but between the two, which would you guys recommend the most?

It seems like you guys really have fun with this buggy.

paulicat

05-26-2005, 01:39 PM

They are the same buggy with the ONLY difference being the shell. So just pick the shell you like the best...I personally have a GH.

snud

05-26-2005, 01:43 PM

http://search.stores.ebay.com/search/search.dll?GetResult&sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&from=R10&catref=C6&satitle=df02&sacat=-6&catref=C6&a6=-24&a23718=-24&a25263=-24&a39=-24&a10244=-24&gcs=1400&pfid=1701&reqtype=1&pfmode=1&alist=a6,a23718,a25263,a39,a10244,a3801&pf_query=df-02&sofp=4&sif=1&sargn=-1&saslc=2&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&sadis=200&fpos=ZIP/Postal&fsop=1&fsoo=1

pretty much all the df02 hops ups parts u can get off ebay....
hope this is usefull

Haruchai

05-26-2005, 02:19 PM

The body is all that's different? Why the difference in price between them? That's.... odd. So there is no particular reason to pick the GH over the RS.

paulicat

05-26-2005, 02:53 PM

What pricing quotes do you have?
The Rising Storm came out after the Gravel Hound, so in that sense, the Rising Storm is "Newer", but the chassis and all components contained within are 100% identical.

Haruchai

05-26-2005, 03:07 PM

Hmmm... the price quotes are really close at Tower. I'd seen them with almost $50 difference before. Heh. Of course, I hadn't checked in awhile.

Tower says the GH is 2wd and the RS is 4wd?

paulicat

05-26-2005, 03:08 PM

LOL, thats an obvious mistake...they are both 4wd.
I gotta go check that out...

paulicat

05-26-2005, 03:12 PM

Ok, I dont know what this is, but it is not the Gravel Hound referenced throughout this thread...this is the one they quote as 2wd...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJHZ2&P=7
This one however is the buggy we are all talking about...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHAS9&P=7

Haruchai

05-26-2005, 03:19 PM

Hey, here's an RTR that's 4wd.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGMS3&P=0

I didn't know they made different versions of them. Thanks! I think that answers my questions.

So with a few modifications it's a very good buggy?

bakabaka

05-26-2005, 04:49 PM

Hi Haruchai!

Tamiya's QD series cars are not the same as the kit cars, they're basically Tamiya's version of the inexpensive Nikko and Tyco cars you see in department stores. They can be had for about $100, but they can't really be hopped up and probably aren't worth your time.

The XB versions OTOH are almost the same as the kit, but they come with lower spec parts. For instance, the XB Gravel Hound comes with friction dampers and non-adjustable plastic turnbuckles. The kit comes with oil-filled dampers and adjustable metal turnbuckles. I'd advise going with the kit version instead, having purchased an RTR Gravel Hound myself.

As for how good it is, it's a lot of fun to bash around. I have purchased a few different RC cars since then, including a Clod Buster, Wild Willy 2000, Losi JRx2 buggy, Losi XX-T and a Duratrax Evader ST, and the Gravel Hound is still my favorite. With enough hop-ups, it's quite possible to be competititve on the track as Eotz has shown.

Have fun! :)

Haruchai

05-26-2005, 05:15 PM

Hey bakabaka!

Glad to see someone who also owns a Duratrax Evader ST, since I am looking at purchasing one of those as well. What, to you, really sets the GH apart from the ST to make it the more pleasing vehicle?

I'm certainly wanting to buy a kit, though I'm not totally against an RTR. The overall quality is a huge deciding factor. I'd rather spend $250 on a decent RTR than pay $150 for a kit that I then need to put $200 worth of hop-ups into.

vegasdrift

05-26-2005, 07:24 PM

mostly on gravel and sand.
I would go any where between 30 and 70. If you have huge jumps go with 70 and if you run on flat land with a few bumps, go with 30. Go closer to 70 the rougher the terrain.

vegasdrift

05-26-2005, 07:28 PM

On another note, what part of the drive cups need to be shaved if you increase the ground clearance? I put some XTM Mammoth shocks on the rear and now the buggy is high. It's also impossible to bottom out in the rear. Pics will follow.

Will any problems occur if I run shocks that are too long? (meaning they have to be compressed to get the holes to line up to mount them.)

bakabaka

05-26-2005, 09:45 PM

Hi Haruchai!

For me, there are two things that I like better about the GH:

First, it's 4wd. Spinning around is fun for a while, but I really like the extra traction during steering. If the GH had bigger tires and maybe a wider wheelbase, I think it'd be the perfect vehicle for my purposes. Are you listening, Tamiya? How about a truck version of the DF-02? :)

Second, the gear differentials. For racing a ball diff/slipper clutch is certainly better, but for bashing I'd rather have something simple that won't melt on me. I'd hate to see what the brushless would do to it... Although the Evader hasn't done that, the Losi XXT I had did. The Evader is really just an inexpensive clone of the XXT, albeit one for which parts are still being produced.

That's not to say the Evader ST is a bad truck, I do enjoy taking it out for a spin. And spin it does! I also enjoy doing crazy things like popping wheelies directly after landing from jumps; the DF-02 really excels in this sort of area, with its tough transmission and chassis.

As for RTR vs. kit, that's just it. The parts that come with the RTR, basically the radio and servo, are parts that I upgraded shortly after getting the buggy. I used them on other vehicles, but they're very basic and the transmitter lacks features like EPA. Combined with a few lower quality components when compared to the kit, you end up paying more later to get the level of quality that the kit has out of the box. I found out the hard way.

Have fun! :)

Haruchai

05-26-2005, 09:55 PM

Hmmm... so I guess I'm aiming for the GH or RS kit. What about the Blazing Star? Anybody know what the deal with that is? The shocks look like they're in a more upright position, but other than that it looks about the same. Is it a different chassis?

Thanks for your help guys! Especially bakabaka and paulicat!

bakabaka

05-26-2005, 09:56 PM

Hi vegasdrift!

The slots on the sides of the drive cups need to be a bit longer, since the pins sticking out of the dogbones hit the back of the slots. This should be done for the axle and outdrive cups, and a diagonal cut sloping inward is probably best for strength.

You can actually reduce the travel of the dampers by putting a segment of silicon fuel tubing on the shaft inside the damper body, such that the piston will come to rest on the tubing rather than the bottom of the damper. If it's really too long, you may want to try that.

Finally, the only thing I've noticed with the extra clearance is that it's possible for the drive cups/outdrives and the dogbone to pop out sometimes after a jump. Now that I have adjustable turnbuckles/camber shafts though, I can probably take care of that.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

05-26-2005, 10:07 PM

Hi Haruchai!

I believe the Blazing Star uses the Manta Ray chassis, which would basically make it a Dirt Thrasher with on/off road tires instead of pin spikes. I haven't tried one, although they are marginally less expensive than DF-02 chassis buggies. I would imagine the DF-02 would have parts support further into the future though, since it's a newer design.

Have fun! :)

snud

05-27-2005, 09:29 PM

hey guys.....

isnt the dirt thrasher discontinued?? i could be wrong......
if it is it would be quite hard to source parts for it if something went wrong....

seems the df-02 has become quite popular.......bash hard guys!

baka....have u noticed significantly lower runtimes with the dirt hawgs?...
im wondering....i ran my xxxg+ with the same gp3300 matched pack and novak brushless as in my hound.....
i got atleast a 30 percent increased run time with my losi than my hound.....
i know weight is an issue...but my losi isnt that much lighter than my hound...
my hound transmission is smooth and a good gear mesh...
oh well......maybe it was just the way i drove...

vegasdrift

05-27-2005, 09:48 PM

It's probably the dirt hawgs. Bigger tires result in less run time.

Haruchai

05-27-2005, 09:50 PM

Thanks for the info, bakabaka!

I wasn't too worried about the cost, but it is nice to know that the chassis design is a bit older. It probably would be a lot harder to get parts for it if it would break.

What aftermarket bodies will fit on the GH and RS? Will most buggy bodies fit?

vegasdrift

05-27-2005, 09:55 PM

As of now the only Known buggy bodies that fit are the GH and RS shells. However if I remember correctly the Cat 3000 body looks like it might fit. Most buggies have bodies that don't correspond with other buggies because of their tight fit.

However a XXX-nt body has been made to fit with great results.

jp1450

05-27-2005, 09:56 PM

bakabaka

05-27-2005, 10:05 PM

Hi snud!

I don't know if the Dirt Thrasher is discontinued, I hadn't heard about it anyway. At least 3 stores in the area carry them, but I really liked what I heard about the DF-02 when I was ready to buy.

Not exactly sure about the runtime difference, although you're talking about a graphite chassis, right? Perhaps a stiffer chassis helps in that department. Might have been the tires, the gearing or how you were driving.

Have fun! :)

Hound in Oz

05-27-2005, 11:53 PM

Hi all,
I just lashed out today and got a full set of the tamiya universal shafts and drive cups, it was not cheap, cost me about $130A all up. But boy what a difference they make, it has nearly eliminated all the wheel slop, it is much smoother and quieter and steering under power is much improved.

The shaft in the tamiya uni doesn't seem much thicker than the stock dogbone, but hopefully it is of better quality or higher tensile steel than stock, because I bent and twisted the stock dogbones in no time.

Next on the list of hop ups is the racing steering and the tamiya aluminum shocks. I have on order from tower the dirt hawgs and hpi mesh wheels.

Hopefully after these mods it will be a nimble and quick little machine, now all I need is one of the Novak brushless systems and then it will be complete.

What do you people think?

KREATOR1

05-28-2005, 12:34 AM

anybody using the alumn motor mount? does the TT01 motor mount fitt?
any pictures?

bakabaka

05-28-2005, 01:10 AM

anybody using the alumn motor mount? does the TT01 motor mount fitt?
any pictures?

Hi KREATOR1!

Yup, it fits. I don't have pictures per se, since the motor mount is fairly hidden once it's installed. I have lists of various compatible parts in the DF-02 FAQ if you want to have a look:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/index.php?action=show&cat=2

I still have to do a writeup on Tobee's parts sometime though...

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

05-28-2005, 01:12 AM

Hi Hound in Oz!

You'll have more or less the same configuration that I do at that point, although you have better universals. I think it's a good setup.

Have fun! :)

KREATOR1

05-28-2005, 04:52 AM

thanks bakabaka

taladas

05-28-2005, 11:51 AM

Hi Taladas!

I've gathered the following about the three types of universal joints, hope it helps.

Tobee universals are bog standard universals, but they're still much stronger and better than the stock dogbones. I have two sets on my DF-02, they're very economical. Inexpensive replacement parts are available if you damage the universals somehow.

Tamiya universals require different cup joints/outdrives than the dogbones, unlike the others, but the small size of the replacement outdrives makes them more precise according to Eotz. These cup joints are purchased separately from the universals, which brings the total price between the Tobee and Square RC universals.

Square RC universals are said to be the strongest and are quite light, probably the best for racing. They're also the most expensive.

Which ones you would get depend on your requirements. If you're just bashing like me, the Tobee universals will probably be fine. If you're racing, perhaps a combination of the Tamiyas in front and the Square RCs in the rear would be best, giving the most precision to the steering and strength to the rear. Pure idle speculation on my part, Snud might have more to say about it.

I used one pair in the front at first, which worked fine. Eventually I replaced the rear dogbones out of necessity when I raised the buggy's clearance with standoffs. The stock dogbones would bind at the axle cup joints at full shock absorber extension, but the universals don't.

Have fun! :)

Hey Baka!

I finally got two pairs of Tobee Universals from Jason's store. Thanks again for all the information. (Btw, you could post what you wrote to me on your website, in case someone else is looking for the info. :) ) Anyways, I figured I might as well get both at the same time, to avoid future problems and extra shipping charges, etc. Any idea how long it would take for them to arrive? I'm in Toronto, as I mentioned before, so I guess that would be the same as delivery to the East Coast (more or less). I can't wait!

I'm probably going to do the suspension mod with the motherboard standoffs once I get the universals. I jumped my Hound off a curb the other day (level, not inclined), and it bottomed out pretty large, dislodging my ESP. Luckily nothing broke. My friends and I are going to build a couple of portable ramps for the video, so I think it will definitely need that mod. :)

My next hop-ups: new spiked wheels and tires (the Dirt Hawgs are nice for asphalt, but they really suck on gravel, so yea..) I was also looking at the aluminum rear uprights... do these make any difference at all? I don't remember any posts about them here. Lastly, I saw that Tamiya sells "turnbuckle shafts"... what exactly are these? I'm confused.

Of course, I also need a new ESP, but that's for a bit later. :(

Bash hard!

D.

vegasdrift

05-28-2005, 11:52 AM

Hi all.....

Just looking for some recommendations on 7.2v chargers. I have a couple of 3000 mah nmhi sticks for my Gravel Hound and would like to get your take on entry to intermediate-level chargers that might do without breaking the bank. Any thoughts?

jp1450
There's quite a big array of chargers to chose from. I've heard good things about the MRC 959.I'm using the Promax Blackwidow ac/dc charger (http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/350360.asp) and it has worked good for me for about a year. It does occaisonally false peak though. I recently bought the Wattage ac/dc all in one charger (http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/130116.asp). It has the ability to charge 1-8 nicad/nimh cells and 1-3 lipo cells. It looks to be a great charger however I haven't tried it yet.

Almost any ac/dc Peak charger will work.

vegasdrift

05-28-2005, 12:05 PM

Oh, yeah. I almost forgot to tell you guys that the Factory Team Associated TC3 clip on motor heat sink fits under the RS body with no modifications nessasary to the body.

jimbo_style

05-28-2005, 01:30 PM

wow, installed venom fireball 19t motor and 19/67 t pinion/spur gears to my mildly modified storm. What a difference, it is in RWD now and there is no control, anything above 1/2 throttle and it just donuts! The top end is much improved and there is more torque and the powerband in general greatly improved. Best of all, stock ESC seems to be coping with the extra current draw rather well, ran two 3000mah packs through it and it only got warm (not hot). Broke front shock connector thing that is on top of the diff box (what's it called?) anyone kown of a good alum replacement (i think it'll break again)
I just love this buggy

thanks

TipsyMcStagger

05-28-2005, 10:09 PM

Okay, finally in the process of assembling the Rising Storm. Being that this is the first car I’ve assembled since my Frog in 1985, I’m taking it slow. I’ve already come across a couple of issues.

I’m installing the TT-01 aluminum motor mount and a Robinson 19T pinion with a 67T spur gear. The diagram shows to install the motor in the “A” position, or one hole clockwise of 12 o’clock. Let me make sure I fully understand this…with the motor situated upright (the top mounting hole at 12 o’clock) you would essentially take the motor mount and rotate it one hole to the left, and mount it there (does that make any sense)?

Also, two question regarding the pinion gear. Firstly, I don’t have a micrometer. How critical is the position of the pinion on the motor shaft? The instructions say the pinion should be 16mm from the motor (which I can’t measure) and then there is a supplemental instruction sheet that supercedes the manual, also indicating the pinion should be 16mm (I can’t see any difference between the manual and the supplemental sheet). The only thing I can figure is that you want to make sure the pinion is not so far down on the shaft that is covers the “lip” on the shaft where is goes from having the flat surface to being fully round (again, if that makes any sense).

Second question…what size hex wrench is required to tighten the Robinson pinion? I used the Allen wrench that came with the RS kit. As soon as I got it tight (but not cinched) the wrench slipped. I’m guessing the grub screw that comes with the Robison is slightly larger than the grub screw that comes with the kit pinion. I don’t have any hex wrenches here that small (not doing the assembly at home).

Sorry for the long post. Thanks for the help!

P.S. Looks like I over-tightened one of the self-tappers that hold the front differential cover in place. I knew I’d do that! It’s holding, but I can tell it’s stripped.

Tipsy

bakabaka

05-29-2005, 02:02 AM

Hi jimbo_style!

Cool, I also have a Venom Fireball 19t double, although it's in a different vehicle for the moment. I may try it in the Wild Willy 2 if it works well with the stock ESC.

As for the shock connector though, I believe you're talking about the shock tower, also known as a damper stay. Square RC makes a carbon fiber version that's much stronger, I've been using it to good effect. Although I'm not aware of any commercially produced aluminum versions, some people have made their own.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

05-29-2005, 02:19 AM

Hi TipsyMcStagger!

From your description, it sounds like you attached the motor correctly to the TT-01 motor mount. Here are a few links to entries in the FAQ that provide reasonably detailed information which may help with some of your questions, including a link to all the possible gearing combinations:

RR pinions: http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/index.php?action=artikel&cat=2&id=7&artlang=en

Stripped chassis: http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/index.php?action=artikel&cat=1&id=29&artlang=en

The appropriate hex driver to use with the RR pinion is SAE 1/16", like all of Robinson Racing's pinions the set screw is not metric.

As for where to mount the pinion on the motor shaft, I've just been mounting it such that the pinion completely covers the spur gear. It seems to work well enough for me. Anyone else have better information on this?

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

05-29-2005, 02:20 AM

Tipsy: You need a 1/16 inch hex driver/allen head wrench.
I mount my pinion so that it matches up with the spur and I've had no problems.

bakabaka

05-29-2005, 03:34 AM

Hi Taladas!

I got the packages within a week each time I've had them shipped, but then I'm on the west coast so it might take longer to get there. Still, Tower Hobbies usually takes a bit longer to get an order here than Jason's Store does.

The aluminum rear uprights let you change the toe-in on the rear wheels. Although I haven't had a problem with the strength of the stock ones, they're probably stronger too. The DF-02 turnbuckle hop-up comes with adjustable camber shafts for both the front and the rear, which is definitely a good thing IMO.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

05-29-2005, 10:58 AM

Does anybody know when tower is going to start stocking Df-02 hop ups?

bakabaka

05-29-2005, 11:58 AM

Hi vegasdrift!

Aside from bearings they have two at the moment, the 63t hop-up gear and the universal shaft cup joints. They seem to be adding more over time. The aluminum steering for example is due to be in stock early June. I don't know beyond that though.

Keep in mind that some hop-ups, e.g. the universal shafts themselves, the ball diff, the motor heat sink and the center drive shaft, are shared with the TT-01 chassis. Thus, a search for TT-01 hop-ups will net you a few extra.

Have fun! :)

taladas

05-29-2005, 01:44 PM

Hi vegasdrift!

Keep in mind that some hop-ups, e.g. the universal shafts themselves, the ball diff, the motor heat sink and the center drive shaft, are shared with the TT-01 chassis. Thus, a search for TT-01 hop-ups will net you a few extra.

Have fun! :)

Is there a big difference between the standard/stock diff and a ball diff?

A little info for everyone: I decided to put the stock 19t pinion gear on Peak Racing "Dynasty" 19T Spec. At first, I was hesitant to run it with that pinion gear because the guys at the store said it may burn out my ESP. Well... it didn't and the Hound is so much faster, even with the stock 70t spur gear! :) There's less control, granted, but I attribute that to the Dirt Hawgs, which, as I said before are GREAT for asphalt, but today I happened to be bashing on gravel, and they do nothing there, except cool donuts that delight the kids watching. :)

Something else, which I meant to post a while ago, and also in answer to Tipsy's post about mounting the pinion gear: the GH manual says to mount the pinion gear 15mm away from the end of the motor can... you guys know what I mean. I mounted it like that when I first built the car, and it eventually came loose. When I fixed it , I mounted it the same way, and eventually it came loose again. Then winter came, and I didn't do anyting with it, but when I started working on it again this year, I actually LOOKED at what was happening.

I figured that the reason it keeps coming loose, is because the pinion gear and the spur gear don't line up properly. They mesh just fine, that's not an issue, but if you look at them length-wise (i.e. look at the car sitting on its wheels, and pointing towards your right) you'll see that only half of the the pinion gear is actually meshing with the spur. So I moved the pinion gear further off the pinion, to the point where they were in line. I haven't had a problem since, and, on top of that, the car seems to run a lot smoother.

Check out the attached pic.. I don't have my camera here, so I just whipped this up in LightWave quickly, but I think it shows what I mean. Let me know what you guys think..

Dany

paulicat

05-29-2005, 03:30 PM

boroef

05-29-2005, 10:15 PM

vegasdrift

05-29-2005, 10:59 PM

Hey guys,
I went to a track today for the first time with my RS. The place that I usually go to was closed for some odd reason so I went to another. This track is going to be torn down so nobody has been maintaining it. It had a lot of ruts and rocks everywhere that gave my RS a hard time at points. I lost track of how many times I caught an edge at the end of the back straight and went tumbling.

However my buggy performed very well. I was able to lead my brother and his stadium truck even with his ground clearance advantage. He had a 13t motor and I was running an 11t. However, I did have some trouble getting the buggy to jump how I wanted it to. I'm pretty sure the stock suspension is the culprit.( I had to switch back to stock shocks from the mammoth ones because they were making my diff slip.) I bottomed out from pretty much any obstacle on the track.

I'm rather pleased to inform you all that after some psychotic tumbles and crashes the only thing to break was my wing. I'm going to see if some other ones will work as a replacement. I was also having a problem with my gear ratio. Even with the heat sink my motor, battery pack, and esc were way hot after a run. I had barely any low end as well.(which also messed up the jumping) I'm ordering the pinion gears along with some aluminum shocks. The only other problem I had was my electronics kept coming undone.

Now I have some questions for you all.
1. Where and how are you mounting you electronics?(Pics much appreciated)
2. To those that made the brackets for the rear suspension, how are you mounting the shocks to the brackets?
3. What are some shocks that'll fit the rear?
4. Any one know of a durable buggy wing?
5. What do aluminum king pins do and where do the go?
6. Does the steering set for the tt-01 fit the df-02?

Thanks for the help everybody.

bakabaka

05-30-2005, 01:35 AM

Hi Taladas!

The ball differential gives you better traction and more adjustability, whereas the gear differentials are nearly indestructable if the punishment I've handed my DF-02 is any indication. Basically, if you want to race go for the ball diff. If you want to beat the snot out of the poor unsuspecting differential in bashing sessions, as I often do, the gear diff is probably the way to go.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

05-30-2005, 06:08 AM

Hi vegasdrift!

I'd recommend the standoff modification for the suspension, although today two damper shafts popped out from the standoffs. Liquid thread lock would suffice to prevent this. I wrapped teflon tape around the threads again to tighten it up, removing the tape when I put on the Square RC damper endballs was apparently a mistake... I also had an issue with the universals popping out from the outdrives again. I used the camber adjustments from the turnbuckles hop-up, the rear wheels are now a bit tilted but the dogbones won't be coming out again.

I picked up some two-sided tape from Radio Shack that works very well for mounting the ESC. It's called "Hi-Temp/Hi-Strength Supermount Tape", Radio Shack part number 64-2361. (For those outside of the US, it's probably "Tandy".) The tape is supposed to be permanent, but I imagine it can be removed if necessary. The following picture shows how everything's mounted:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/camera/gravel-hound/tn/DSC02082.JPG.html

As for the aluminum kingpins, they go on the top and bottom of the front hub carriers. They're lighter than the originals, but that's about it. You can see them (the blue hex bolts) in the picture above, they're right next to the wheels and very visible.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

05-30-2005, 06:16 AM

One last thing, I put up Eotz's pictures. They can be found here:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/~eotz/images/

Incidentally, Taladas, how did you get those pictures to attach? Every time I tried to upload one here, I'd get an error from the forum software.

Have fun! :)

paulicat

05-30-2005, 08:26 AM

boreof,
Thanks for the info!!!
Its a little ways from me, but its better than nothing!

TipsyMcStagger

05-30-2005, 08:32 AM

Hey guys, thanks for the info on the pinion. I was busy yesterday and didn’t have a chance to find a 1/16” hex wrench.

Everything is closed today for Memorial Day, so I guess it’ll have to wait till tomorrow.

By the way, those CAD images are awesome. I took CAD in college 12 years ago. Something like that would have been a project for a full semester back then :)

Tipsy

vegasdrift

05-30-2005, 03:56 PM

taladas

05-30-2005, 10:04 PM

Hey Taladas,
You're dead on with the pinion positioning...I think thats the reason they added the addendum to the manual that tells you to position the pinion 17mm instead of 15mm...however, I still did it by eye, aligning the pinion to the spur so that they line up evenly.
Taladas, I think I read earlier that you are in the Toronto area...Im in Mississauga, do you know of any off road tracks in our GTA?? I cant seem to find anywhere to run my Hound besides the driveway...

Yea, I did the same with the gears.. just eyeballed the line-up. :) It does make a difference having them like that!

I am indeed in Toronto, paulicat... around Bathurst and Eglinton. U? I didn't even know about Advance Hobbies--I mean I didn't know about the store--but the fact that they have a track is tres cool! I'll probably check it out in the next couple of weeks. I wonder what it costs to use it for an hour or whatever..

But you shouldn't run your 'Hound in the driveway man... parks are cool. There's a BMX track in High Park actually, somewhere by the Lakeshore. Some of my friends found it, and bashed there with their monster trucks. I'm gonna go with them next time. There's this football field right by my place with a running track around it, which is actually pretty cool for bashing around. I'm sure there's something like that in your neck o' the woods.. :)

Dany

taladas

05-30-2005, 10:09 PM

Incidentally, Taladas, how did you get those pictures to attach? Every time I tried to upload one here, I'd get an error from the forum software.

I got an error three times before I actually figured I should probably read what it actually says. :rolleyes: There's apparently a size limit on the size of pics you can post. I got mine down to 45k or whatever, and then it worked.

Dany

taladas

05-30-2005, 10:14 PM

advance hobbies opened up a large, outdoor track recently. i went there to check it out, it's very very nice.

advancehobbies dot com will have it!!! (with directions and pics...it's at birchmount and ellesmere).

i wanna go and run my hound there sometime too XD

Hey Boroef,

Any idea if they charge anything? Would they just let me bash around for a while, or do I actually have to race?

Dany

taladas

05-30-2005, 10:22 PM

By the way, those CAD images are awesome. I took CAD in college 12 years ago. Something like that would have been a project for a full semester back then :)

Hehe.. thanks Tipsy!

This was actually done in LightWave (not AutoCAD), which is a 3D modelling and animation software... :) I must admit that I "cheated", because, for whatever reason, the software has a macro for creating gears. (That's why I said I "whipped that it quickly". :D )

But this DOES give me an idea.. modelling the 'Hound. ACCURATELY and complete with the shell. And then of course animating it nicely. hmmm... :rolleyes: I think I may wait for winter though, when I can't bash anyways.

Until then, I'll bash hard. And so should you! :) Well, once your 'Storm is built... how's it coming along by the way?

Dany

KREATOR1

05-31-2005, 01:09 AM

i just got my GH with hop ups and intend to run 23t stock motor
what gearing should i use?

And , is the stock tamiya ESC durable?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/KREATOR1/Buggy/DSC00214.jpg

Eotz

05-31-2005, 02:00 AM

Thanks for the pics bakabaka. I would've never thought to mount my rx where you had yours mounted. I'm gonna hold off on the king pins, since they don't improve performance.

Eotz: Your buggy looks really good. What wing and rear shocks are those? How are you mounting the shocks to the arms?

Hi Vegasdrift.

Last race I use Losi's XXX4 G+ "Aurora" wing, as you can see at the pictures the wing is bigger tha original RS wing. Cyclone front and rear 2.2" wheels wiht Losi front tyres and Pro-Line 8081 rear tyres. The I mount the shocks at the middle stock holes but I use some spacers to compress the coils and avoid it bottons. I must say that it works really fine. I'll send more pictures to Bakabaka. Thanks Bakabaka :D.

Bye :cool:

KREATOR1

05-31-2005, 07:11 AM

anybody know whats the internal ratio for Gravel hound? cant seem to find it in manual.

taladas

05-31-2005, 10:52 AM

anybody know whats the internal ratio for Gravel hound? cant seem to find it in manual.
Hey Kreator!

Baka's page has a lot of info on the 'Hound, as I believe he already mentioned to you. This one in particular describes all the gear ratios available: http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/index.php?action=artikel&cat=4&id=2&artlang=en

Bash hard!

Dany

vegasdrift

05-31-2005, 08:06 PM

Hi Vegasdrift.

Last race I use Losi's XXX4 G+ "Aurora" wing, as you can see at the pictures the wing is bigger tha original RS wing. Cyclone front and rear 2.2" wheels wiht Losi front tyres and Pro-Line 8081 rear tyres. The I mount the shocks at the middle stock holes but I use some spacers to compress the coils and avoid it bottons. I must say that it works really fine. I'll send more pictures to Bakabaka. Thanks Bakabaka :D.

Bye :cool:
And the rear shocks are the DF-02 aluminum ones right?

vegasdrift

05-31-2005, 10:22 PM

I'm thinking of using shocks that are 12mm longer than the stock ones to increase ground clearance. Do you think these would work good?

KREATOR1

06-01-2005, 12:27 AM

baka's page was awesome. alot tips and very helpfull.

another question, can I use the TEU-101BK ESC with a 23turn Xenon stock motor?> will the ESC able to take that motor torque?

Eotz

06-01-2005, 01:58 AM

And the rear shocks are the DF-02 aluminum ones right?

Hi.

Yes. I use Tamiya's aluminiun shocks. With Schumacher's 35 oil rear and 25 at front.

Bye.

Hound in Oz

06-01-2005, 04:37 AM

Hi all,
I am using tamiya unis with the tamiya drive cups. They seem to bind slightly when the suspension is at full reach, this is probably because im using bakas standoff mod. I really love the extra clearance that the mod gives, but the binding is annoying me, also it doesnt sound too good, can it be doing any damage? i was wondering what I could do. Is it possible to file out some material from the back edge of the drive cups? any suggestions?

Also I cant seem to post pictures on this forum, my file size is under 20k so I cant see what the problem could be. I would really like you people to see my pics. I built a ramp and its getting some rather large air.

Thanks.

KREATOR1

06-01-2005, 08:32 AM

Hound , i can help you with the pictures.
just send them to azr@tm.net.my and i will load it up for yah

bakabaka

06-01-2005, 11:48 AM

Hi Hound in Oz!

As you mentioned, you could try elongating the slots in the cup joints/outdrives a bit. Either a round file or a dremel would do the trick. It's probably better for the cut to slope inward to maintain strength. I'm actually using Tobee's replacement cup joints, which run quieter and wobble less than the stock plastic ones but seem a bit shorter. I wonder if they are a contributor to the dogbones popping out...

Incidentally, does anyone know if TT-01 stock cup joints are the same as DF-02 cup joints? Square RC makes some nice looking replacements for the TT-01, but not for the DF-02 yet. I'm actually considering getting a TT-01 just to find out which parts can be used between the two.

I had the same issue with the pictures for whatever reason, I just put them on my website instead. You might want to take KREATOR1 up on his offer, he seems to have more bandwidth for direct linking.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

06-01-2005, 11:59 AM

I'm thinking of using shocks that are 12mm longer than the stock ones to increase ground clearance. Do you think these would work good?

Hi vegasdrift!

I'm not sure if 12mm would be too long. The clearance gained from using the motherboard standoffs, 6.5mm, is pretty much the most I would want to add to the chassis due to cup joint binding and dogbone length issues. One could always reduce the suspension travel with a bit of silicon fuel tubing under the piston though.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

06-01-2005, 12:06 PM

Hi KREATOR1!

I'm not sure about the motor, it depends on how many amps it draws at maximum motor load. Some people are successfully using 19t motors with this ESC though, so I imagine it shouldn't be too much for it. If you do find out, I'd be happy to add the motor/ESC combination to the FAQ. The gearing information would be useful too.

Have fun! :)

KREATOR1

06-01-2005, 01:59 PM

hi baka,

you mean that the TEU101-bk ESc can be also use for the 19t motor?
wow!i though the max turn for this ESC is 23t..
Ok,... ill give it a try on the xenon stock motor first.

Thanks baka ;)

taladas

06-01-2005, 04:19 PM

hi baka,

you mean that the TEU101-bk ESc can be also use for the 19t motor?
wow!i though the max turn for this ESC is 23t..
Ok,... ill give it a try on the xenon stock motor first.

Thanks baka ;)
Hey Kreator,

Yes. I'm using the stock ESC with a Peak Racing "Dynasty" 19 Turn Spec motor, and it runs just fine. As I wrote just a couple of days ago, at first I was hesitant to use the 19t pinion gear, so I was using a 16t. Then I figured what the heck, and dropped the 19t in there. Ran two 2400mAh packs through it one after the other with no problems. Yea, the ESC got a bit warm, but nothing extreme. I'm pretty happy now, I gotta say; I woulda been sad if the ESC burned out though, 'cuz I wouldn't be able to bash for a couple of weeks at least. (Take it from me guys: get into this hobby BEFORE you get married! :eek: )

Dany

paulicat

06-01-2005, 04:24 PM

Taladas,
Exact same situation for me...and I got a kid on the way too!
This hobby is difficult on a super tight budget!

bakabaka

06-01-2005, 05:29 PM

Hi KREATOR1!

It's out of spec, but if the DF-02 is geared low then a 19t motor may be ok. Then again, you might burn up the ESC. It depends on where you drive, the tires, the gearing, and how much current the motor typically draws based on its design.

In any case, since the ESC specifications state that it can handle 23t motors, you should be safe with the Xenon stock motor.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

06-01-2005, 05:39 PM

(Take it from me guys: get into this hobby BEFORE you get married! :eek: )
Dany

Boy, do I ever hear that... OTOH, you might be surprised depending on your SO. My wife enjoyed painting the Wild Willy 2, in fact she drives it around while I'm running the DF-02.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

06-01-2005, 07:53 PM

Baka: when I saw your drivecup post I went out to my garage to my tt-01 and df-02. The dive cups definitely are not the same.

The tt-01 cups are monsters compared to the df-02. Instead of a slot for the drive shafts they have a covered out dent type thing.
However, they are compatible. In fact the tt-01 cups fit better than the stockers. They have a shorter rod coming out of them( thing that goes into the diff). It appers to stop some of the drive cup jiggling that occurs on the df-02. These things feel a lot tougher than stock. After 8 months of use there is virtually no wear.

I have pics coming later to compare the two, but first I have to do some hw. Mom's rules. It shouldn't take me too long.

Stay tuned.

vegasdrift

06-01-2005, 10:58 PM

Ok here it is
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/vegasdrift/rc%20cars/driveCupcomparo.jpg
The one on the left is stock and the one on the right is the tt-01. This thing is a lot stronger. Sorry the pic is so big.

KREATOR1

06-01-2005, 11:15 PM

the tt01 drive cup looks durable. does it fit good?

paulicat

06-02-2005, 08:47 AM

More importantly, are they perfectly round? My DF-02 outdrives are badly out of round...which creates a nice little wobble in the drivetrain :-(

bakabaka

06-02-2005, 05:46 PM

It seems that Jason's Store markets Square RC's TT-01 diff gear joints/outdrives as DF-02 compatible, so I guess they must be. Tobee's DF-02 outdrives are definitely smoother than the stock ones, but I'll probably pick up a pair of Square's to try in the rear of the buggy.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

06-02-2005, 09:50 PM

Like I've said I've swapped out to tt-01 outdrives, they are extremely strong. I don't even think aluminum/ steel ones are needed.
I'll let you guys Know this weekend or early next week.

paulicat

06-02-2005, 10:00 PM

Do the TT-01 outdrives have better round?
I'm pretty sure I wasnt the only one in this thread with out of round (right out of th ebox btw) outdrives. Or at least I hope I wasn't...that would suck :-)

vegasdrift

06-02-2005, 10:59 PM

Do the TT-01 outdrives have better round?
I'm pretty sure I wasnt the only one in this thread with out of round (right out of th ebox btw) outdrives. Or at least I hope I wasn't...that would suck :-)
Yeah, they're round.(NOt lopsided)

bakabaka

06-03-2005, 02:34 AM

Yeah, they're round.(NOt lopsided)

Cool, sounds like another good inexpensive hop-up for the DF-02. Pity they didn't include the TT-01 versions instead though.

Have fun! :)

KREATOR1

06-03-2005, 06:09 AM

just took my GH out today with 22t pinion and 67 spur with the Stock ESC and the xenon 23turn stock motor.

after running 5 minutes the ESC is very very hot. but the car is really fast :)
i think i will try to lower down to 20t pinion and see how the ESC temp.

KREATOR1

06-03-2005, 06:15 AM

hey Matt , here you go, nice ramp there.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/KREATOR1/MISC/houndinoz3.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/KREATOR1/MISC/houndinoz2.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/KREATOR1/MISC/houndinoz.jpg

high jump WOW!!!!

taladas

06-03-2005, 10:13 AM

So I just thought about the best place to go bashing: construction sites. I was driving around yesterday, and I saw this huge field where they're going to build houses. There's nothing there, except a bulldozer (way in the middle of the field) and some NICE dirt mounds n' stuff. :D Best of all, the field wasn't fenced off! I wonder how much trouble we could get into for bashing around there. :) Don't matter, I'm still going this weekend!

This should make a very nice start to the video. Wish me luck!

Dany

P.S. Paulicat: if you're interested, this is the NW corner of Rutherford and Bathurst.

paulicat

06-03-2005, 10:17 AM

Thanks for the tip taladas, my weekend is shot though...getting materials for a deck in the backyard...not enough time for RC'ing lately!!

microrcdude

06-03-2005, 09:01 PM

get enough materials so you have enough leftovers to build a jump, hehe.

steadyc

06-03-2005, 10:53 PM

hello...im new to the post...but have had my rising storm for awhile now(when it first came out) i reall like this buggy..i have raced it twice at the track on club night..not too bad 4th place out of eight....considering i was running completely stock..minus the motor..i was running a tamiya racing stock motor....anyway everyone pretty much hated my tamiya...everyone had a associated or a losi(2wd trucks and buggies) ..i mean i have a T4, but i must admit i like to be different...it's kind of boring if everyone is running the same stuff....but like everyone posted it has suspension problems....the standoff mod is great...but i find cvd(universal shafts) necessary...I took my outer stock drive cups and ground them down so they would not rub on the lower "a" arm...also i had melted my motor end cap(the top plastic side) i am running a lrp 7.1 and a mod epic 9 turn...i did not clock my motor correctly according to the manual, on the motor mount....well i wasted two motors before i figured it out...im am waiting for all my hop ups from jasons...i'll post a pic soon....great forum!

vegasdrift

06-04-2005, 12:16 AM

Welcome to the forum and way to be different.

steadyc

06-04-2005, 01:39 AM

Welcome to the forum and way to be different.
Thanks vegas...Oh yeah everyone who is trying to race their df-02's Jasons on Ebay has the original tires for sale...I found the OE's are the way to go when you race these buggies..go to Jason's store and search "tamiya tires" and they will pop up....you will need the manuals part number to make the tire match....front spike tire # 53092 6024
rear spike tire # 53093 6029
Oh yeah if Jason is out of rear tires it's cause I bought them all :)
well i've spent just about enough on my storms...it's time to get some real track time..and practice.....Everyone look out.....The Storm is Rising..lol...pics are coming soon....

bakabaka

06-04-2005, 01:43 AM

steadyc

06-04-2005, 02:00 AM

of course, its great on the street! The spikes grab the road like you wouldn't believe. The only time I could get it to slide is when I hit a patch of gravel on the edges next to the curb. It jumps speed bumps really well...just make sure you power through it, otherwise the rear end will jump over the front...:P

Oh yeah, make sure you get a new set of tires soon, the spikes dont last very long on the street.
I had to power through the jumps at my local track...I found my rear outer cups were rubbing the lower a arms....I removed them and took them to a grinding wheel and shaved them just enough to clear the "a" arms at full extension(with the rear shocks attached of course) I hop this helps...I know it helped my storm...It was like as soon the "a" arms were extended downward the cup would rub and it was like you hit the brakes just on the rear wheels(therefore the nose dive)

KREATOR1

06-04-2005, 02:01 AM

steadyc

06-04-2005, 02:06 AM

Hi steadyc!

Cool, always good to hear from another DF-02 driver. I like having something that's a bit different too, the tracks that I've been driving on are pretty much just nitro places but it's still fun to get in there and bash around.

Incidentally, I'd recommend tightening up the suspension shaft in the motherboard standoff with liquid threadlock or something similar. Mine have popped out a few times, and it's better to not have to dig around for the springs or suspension parts.

Have fun! :)
yeah that happen to me too....but luckily not during a race :) I cleaned the shock end(the lower plastic eye loop) with motor cleaner....then dried with shop air(compressed air) dropped some tire glue(CA GLUE) then threaded the parts together...no problems since....I figure the damper shaft is steel and the part is plastic...so if I reall wanted to I could still remove or un-thread the parts...so baka do you still have those parts for sale?....just curious :rolleyes:

steadyc

06-04-2005, 02:21 AM

i need some help on tyre setting. usually what type of tyres is best for the GH?
I have some pictures of my LHS off road track here.
Any sugguestion on tyres?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/KREATOR1/p1000106.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/KREATOR1/p1000105.jpg
I've tried the dirt hawgs and the losi buggy fuzzies, bow ties and pin tires....I found the original tires work the best at my local track...Jason's on ebay has them...I hope this helps you.

KREATOR1

06-04-2005, 02:46 AM

bakabaka

06-04-2005, 03:01 AM

Hi steadyc!

Yup, it's certainly possible to get the end loop off if needed, even with CA glue. I haven't had such a need aside from putting the Square RC end balls on though. I tried going back for a bit just for comparison, but It seems I'm addicted to the extra ground clearance.

I still have a new Rising Storm lexan shell and Tobee gear washer, which is just a replacement for the plastic washer on the spur gear. I didn't realize only one of the latter was necessary. ;) I decided to use the rest of the parts after a while, and I only bought one set of decals. I replied to your message in my buy/sell/trade post, the forum has rules about discussing the selling of items in any other message threads though. You're welcome to PM or email me about it if you prefer.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

06-04-2005, 03:10 AM

Hi KREATOR1!

I'd have to agree with steadyc on the tires. I've only used two types of tires, but the stock tires are great in the dirt so I haven't felt a need for anything else. The Dirt Hawgs ironically enough have great traction and wear on asphalt, but are not so great in the dirt. When I take my Gravel Hound out to the track, I always use the stock tires.

One thing I have been considering is finding foams that would fit inside the stock tires. The Dirt Hawgs really do benefit from having foam inserts. Anyone have any experience with foams for the stock tires?

Have fun! :)

KREATOR1

06-04-2005, 03:14 AM

thanks guys,

hey baka what spring are you using for the Hound?
im using red infront and blue for the rear with 60weight trinity shock oil all around

bakabaka

06-04-2005, 03:27 AM

Hi KREATOR1!

I was using the red springs and stock oil that came with the aluminum dampers in the front, and blue springs with 80w AE oil in the rear. I've since moved back to the yellow springs in both the front and rear, with 50w AE oil all around. Maybe I'm just getting used to it, but it seems to work pretty well for me now. I might try just a bit heavier oil in the rear dampers sometime. Note that I'm doing this with the standoff modification, performance will be a bit different with a stock setup.

Incidentally, which wheels are you using with the stock tires there?

Have fun! :)

steadyc

06-04-2005, 04:12 AM

thanks steadyc. i think i wont be looking for other tyres than.
this is my GH with the standard tyres, the tyres never been used bcoz i think it dosent fit for this track

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/KREATOR1/Buggy/gravel2.jpg
hmmmmm....your track looks kind of sandy...hard to tell from the pics..if it is sandy you could try some bow ties on some hpi super star wheels..my local track is kind of hard pack so the stock ones are great....I would try the medium compound first..anyone else have any ideas?...Also nice hound...what kiind of wheels are you using...brand and size.

KREATOR1

06-04-2005, 04:45 AM

thanks, its a tamiya dish wheel for DF-02 with stock tyres.

I also have some hopups on it like
Df-02 alumn blue shocks
Alumn turn buckles
alumn steering set
front CVD
rear ball diff
alumn centre shaft
alumn 6mm wheel hex
Alumn blue king pin
full ball bearings
TT01 alumn motor mount
alumn battery post From rclab :)

and just broke my front shock tower :(

and also i run Tamiya hummer tyres on road :D

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/KREATOR1/Buggy/gravel8.jpg
heres a pict of hummer tyres installed

steadyc

06-04-2005, 05:04 AM

That is one sweet ride....I cant wait for my parts to come in.
front damper stay(square)
front one way(tamiya tt-01)
rear ball diff(tamiya tt-01)
gear washer(tobee)
1 pair universal(tobee)
1 pair universal(square)
center shaft(square)
turnbuckle shafts(tamiya)
aluminum rear uprights(tamiya)
4 pair rear tires(OE tamiya)
4 pair front tires(OE tamiya)
2 pair star dish wheels rear (OE tamiya)

all parts from jason's store on ebay....man jason is one rich person..pay to play :o
I'm planning to use some other aluminum shocks....probably some associated product....i have to get my digital camera back from my friend :mad:

p.s. I really like your paint job...simple and tasteful.

cheers!

bakabaka

06-04-2005, 05:08 AM

Hi KREATOR1!

FWIW, I highly recommend Square RC's carbon fiber front damper stay as a replacement for the plastic front shock tower. It's stronger than the original, bends less and is more adjustable to boot. Definitely worth the money, Jason's Store has them:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5979312919&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

Have fun! :)

KREATOR1

06-04-2005, 05:13 AM

ive read some pages behind ,some interesting modification done by Coldblood.
The alumn. front shock tower is cool. Anybody made them?
just like the 1/8 buggy. Or anybody got the CAD drawings for the towers?

vegasdrift

06-04-2005, 09:56 AM

Kreator: If your track is hardpacked with a sandy/dusty layer on top, I'd go with the stockers. I recently got to drive on a hard packed dusty track and I had great traction with an 11 turn modified motor.

Also, does proline make any front buggy tires aside from the wholeshots and dirthawgs?

KREATOR1

06-04-2005, 10:13 AM

11 turn motor? that must be fast. by the way whats your Spur and pinion size? how hot is the motor and ESC?

im planing to run 8X1 V2 orion motor with GT7 ESC, any sugguestion on pinion size?

vegasdrift

06-04-2005, 10:19 AM

Right now I'm running a 70/19 spur/pinion combo. However the motor, esc, and battery get hot. like between 160 and 200 degrees F. I'm swapping out to a 17t pinion which should bring my temps back in range.

With your 8 turn you'll want to go the biggest you can. 70spur and a 16 pinion.

Hound in Oz

06-05-2005, 04:38 AM

Hi all,
I am currently running venom 3000mah batteries. Is it worth getting the 3300 or 3600 packs? do they give you more power or just longer running time? What about the 8.4v packs what advantages do these have and are they safe to run with the gravel hound.
I have just installed a 17t motor, the 67t spur gear, adjustable turnbuckles and aluminium steering. The car is a heap quicker now and the handling is a lot better.
How do you set the car up with the turnbuclkes? I have put negative camber on the front and rear wheels. Does anyone have any experience with the optimal set up?
Sorry about all the questions, thanks.

Aluma

06-05-2005, 11:42 AM

hey baka, whats the part number on those little flange tubes that replace the step screws holding the solid piece where the turnbuckle are supposed to be? I lost a step screw yesterday...I might as well replace them all.

bakabaka

06-05-2005, 02:20 PM

Hi Aluma!

The part number's 50593, and the description on the package is "4x6mm Flanged Tube (5 pcs)." Some of the hop-ups I've added have removed the need for them in some locations, and others have included them. However, there are still a few places that they can be used. I actually ended up putting them in the front and rear A-arms to help reduce the slop after removing them from the camber mounts, since they're not needed there after the turnbuckle set is installed. it takes a bit of effort to get them in, I used a large self-tapping screw to tap it out a bit, but it works pretty well.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

06-05-2005, 02:37 PM

Hi Hound in Oz!

I'm still playing with the camber, but it's basically negative for me at the moment. I'd be interested to hear others' experience.

As for the batteries though, you'll tend to get longer runtime from batteries with higher mAH ratings, and more power from higher voltage packs like the 7 cell 8.4v. There's also discharge rate (how quickly you can get the power out) and individual cell capability to factor in, but that's where people start spending a lot of money on cells and building their own packs.

Note that you'll probably need to use something other than the stock battery strap if you use 7 cell or higher battery packs. I've seen custom e-maxx battery packs that offset the 7th cell diagonally to where it might not interfere with the strap though.

Have fun! :)

paulicat

06-05-2005, 10:30 PM

Hey guys,
Been meaning to post this for a while, just took me forever to figure out the filesize limit on uploads :o

But here she is just after assembly, she's a bit dirtier now :D

bakabaka

06-05-2005, 11:00 PM

Hi Paulicat!

Nice paint job, it looks good although the hound is definitely more at home in the dirt. Incidentally, are those HPI's super nitro tires?

Have fun! :)

paulicat

06-06-2005, 08:12 AM

bakabaka

06-07-2005, 01:40 AM

Thanks Baka!
Yes, the wheels are the super nitro mesh Gunmetal Chrome, with proline Rally tires (from the SNR).
However, the rally tires are slicks now 'cause I was just bashing around the driveway/lawn and they didn't like the driveway too much :D
The only thing I want to get is the 67t spur since I find the buggy has too much accelaration and not enough top speed (my lhs has yet to get one in :( )

Hi Paulicat!

Cool, I have the same wheels in a different color but I was curious about the tires you were using. The general consensus here seems to be that Proline's Dirt Hawg series tires are the best for bashing around on concrete/asphalt, it's definitely been my experience. Do you know what model the rally tires are? I might get a set to try in the dirt.

Have fun! :)

paulicat

06-07-2005, 08:59 AM

Im sorry, I don't recall the model number, but it just said Proline Rally.
I'm 100% sure its the same tire that comes stock with the HPI Super Nitro Rally...

KREATOR1

06-07-2005, 09:58 AM

anybody experience jump and land nose first? how should a nice setting buggy land onn?

Aluma

06-07-2005, 10:34 AM

actually kreator1, its your throttle that takes care of that. you should try to land on all 4 wheels equally, but that depends on when you let go of the throttle on the jump. I try to keep it full throttle until 1/4 way into the air and let it sail down on all 4 wheels. If it goes nose first hit the throttle until it raises up the front, let go right before you land, after it lands then hit the throttle again.

steadyc

06-09-2005, 02:59 AM

anybody experience jump and land nose first? how should a nice setting buggy land onn?
Also make sure your rear outer cups are not touching the lower "a" arms at full extension. Hope this helps. :)

paulicat

06-09-2005, 08:19 AM

steadyc, mine is doing exactly that...time to shave them down about 1 mm.

oblue

06-11-2005, 03:46 PM

Hey Guys, I have a question about two motors. I'm really looking for a motor that has some good speed and torque just for bashing. I tried the Venom 17T and it really sucks. I was thinking about either purchasing the Trinity Speed Gems Extreme 15T or the Reedy 19Spec Quad. Anyone know which would be faster? I saw some earlier posts stating the the Reedy is actually faster than some lower turn motors. I'm currently using the Futaba OEM MC330 Speed controller and cannot go under 13Turns. Thanks in advance for your help. Also, if you have any other suggestions, please let me know.

Also, my car is currently geared with a 19T and 67 spur gear.

jimbo_style

06-11-2005, 06:08 PM

another motor question: I have the venom 19t fireball (and loving it, by the way) but it stopped working. yes, just stopped. the esc is fine as I am now running the stock silvercan :-( but does anyone know how to ressurect it?

thanks

jimbo_style

06-11-2005, 06:10 PM

btw, baka, here's paulicat's wheels: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBLH7&P=7
and tires:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAHL7&P=7

paulicat

06-11-2005, 07:28 PM

Hey Jimbo_style, you nailed it on the tires, I totally forgot they were made by HPI, I was certain they were Prolines, and when I replied earlier, I was at work...
However, the wheels aren't the right ones...I know they look gold in the pic, but they are actually gunmetal - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFYN6&P=7

jimbo_style

06-11-2005, 09:03 PM

hah, saw those as well before and ordered myself a set!
and some dirt hawgs for street use :-)

jimbo_style

06-11-2005, 09:05 PM

also, fireball works now, took it apart and banged it on my desk a couple of times and it worked. made a vid: http://www.one18th.com/GetGallery6093.htm

The Plopster

06-12-2005, 01:29 AM

Well, I'm back! Who remembers me?

Well, after extensive surgery and transplants. The Plopmobile is now back in action!

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/the_plopster_1/E1000/Smaller/All%20In%20Bits%20Small.JPGhttp://homepage.ntlworld.com/the_plopster_1/E1000/Smaller/Gutted%20Car%20Small.JPG
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/the_plopster_1/E1000/Smaller/New%20Chassis%20Small.JPGhttp://homepage.ntlworld.com/the_plopster_1/E1000/Smaller/Plop%20Mobile%20Small.JPG

bakabaka

06-12-2005, 04:01 AM

Hi paulicat, jimbo_style!

Thanks, I've been using those wheels for a while albeit the chrome version. Incidentally, I picked up a Venom Fireball 19t double motor myself. I haven't had any problems with it yet, though I'm going to have to work on the gearing to get it right. The Novak brushless is being sent in for service due to an unfortunate smelting... err... soldering incident.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

06-12-2005, 04:25 AM

Hi oblue, welcome to the thread!

What I've read about motors indicates that otherwise identical motors with lower turns have less torque than motors with higher turns. Electric motors in general are a balancing act of speed vs. torque at a given gearing and input voltage. I couldn't tell you which motor would be faster, but I'd be surprised if the 19t spec motor didn't have more torque than the 15t motor. With either motor, you can try using battery packs with more cells (e.g. 7 cell packs) to get more speed out of it. You'll need a different battery strap though.

Although mine is in the shop, I really like Novak's Super Sport 5800 brushless motor system. It's not cheap, but it's great for bashing. Lots of speed yet plenty of torque. The hound just doesn't drive the same without it.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

06-12-2005, 05:02 AM

Hey plopster, welcome back!

Glad to hear you have the Rising Storm in one piece again. What's in store for the buggy this time? ;)

Incidentally, I picked up an old forward-only ESC, a Tekin Mospower, which is supposed to handle down to 15t motors. I'm going to try it with larger wheels, since I don't really care much if I fry it or the attached motor. :p I have Wild Willy 2 rear wheels in the back, and a set of spiked wheels intended for a stadium truck in the front. (Understeer? What understeer?) Hopefully I'll get to test the setup and put up a picture tomorrow...

Have fun! :)

The Plopster

06-12-2005, 08:44 AM

also, fireball works now, took it apart and banged it on my desk a couple of times and it worked. made a vid: http://www.one18th.com/GetGallery6093.htm

Hey that's a cool vid you made..... you often make videos?

I made some earlier this year if you want to check them out.

They're about 10 -14 mb each and in MP4 format. Let me know if you want me to post the links.

jimbo_style

06-12-2005, 11:04 AM

The Plopster

06-12-2005, 01:05 PM

sure, I'd be interested in the links, have a couple of questions; the first is does anyone know what the part number of the big propellor shaft that connects both gearboxes is and where to buy it online (my lhs is useless, and I lost my manual). Also, what gearing has worked out for the fireball 19t, I'm using 19 pinion 67 spur and am pleased, but I think it can be faster!

thanks

Hi, I actually have 2 spare propeller shafts. You're welcome to have one if you pay the postage.

Here're the links to 2 of my videos:

Car Crash (12mb) (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/the_plopster_1/2005%20Folders/Video/RC%20And%20Car%20Crash.mp4)
Worlds Collide (14.1mb) (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/the_plopster_1/2005%20Folders/Video/RC%20And%20Worlds%20Collide.mp4)

I'm using a 15t motor with 67t spur and 19t pinion. It's bloody fast but I think I'll gear it down a bit to get more torque.

bakabaka

06-12-2005, 03:18 PM

Hi jimbo_style,

The propeller shaft is part of the E parts tree, which is 9005756 according to Tamiya's datasheet. You might consider using an aluminum TT-01 shaft instead though, it's likely to last longer than the plastic shaft and can be found more easily. Look for part number 53620 and you should find it. I've replaced the entire E tree with hop-ups myself. If you want to stick with the stock shaft, Plopster's offer is probably a good idea since E trees seem to be difficult to find.

As for the gearing, I'm using the same at the moment since I was using it with the brushless. It might be better to go back to the 70t spur gear, as it seems to accelerate a bit slowly. I'm not terribly familiar with how a 19t is supposed to perform though. Since I'll play around with the bigger wheels first, I might not have valid gearing information for a bit.

In case anyone's interested, I put up that picture of the hound with bigger wheels:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/camera/gravel-hound/tn/DSC02220.JPG.html

Have fun! :)

c_pd

06-12-2005, 10:07 PM

I have a hard time keeping my front shocks together. I was considering aluminum shock bottoms. Has any one tried these yet? It says they are for a Revo but according to my measurements it looks like they would fit.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJPT7&P=0

snud

06-12-2005, 10:23 PM

hey guys!!
exams finally over and its time to get the hound outta storage!!!
didnt have the heart to sell it......so im gonna go down to the track tomorrow and give it a thrashing....
interesting.....ive got a peak vantage v2 6x2 motor begging for a speed run on the hound....
will ppost up pics and speeds tomorrow....
hows everyones hounds doing? seems like ages since i posted anything...
theres an aluminium steering draglink available from rc-square...has anyone tried it?

Hound in Oz

06-12-2005, 10:45 PM

Hi all,
I have finally busted my chassis. It is only the second thing to break on it after the front shock tower (on my 3rd now). The chassis broke where the front hinge pins hold the suspension arms to the chassis, both sides broke clean off at the same time. It may have had something to do with the repeated 5 foot jumps lading onto concrete, and it always seemed to want to land nose first even if I hit the throttle in the air?

Anyway im having a hard time getting a new chassis. All my lhs dont have them and it seems the supplier in sydney is out to so that means I could be out of action anywhere over 6 weeks. Even tower is out. Does anyone know where I could get one? I dont mind ordering from the states if i have to. I really want to get my hound back in action, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have soom cool vids of my hound, I was wondering how or where I could upload them so guys can check them out.

Seeya.

The Plopster

06-12-2005, 11:06 PM

I've just had to replace my chassis. I ordered it off a german seller on ebay. But I can get parts from my local model shop and they take about a week to get in.

How big are your videos? If they're not HUGE I can probably host them for a while. I've got about a gig of webspace handy at the moment.

KREATOR1

06-13-2005, 12:45 AM

I just burn my Tamiya stock ESC with my 23turn xenon stock motor yesterday. im using 19t pinion with 67 spur. :(

but the GH was great ....

bakabaka

06-13-2005, 03:01 AM

Hi Hound in Oz!

I could only find one seller on ebay who had the chassis at the moment. They're in the UK and the part is a bit expensive, but here's a link to the auction:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5974922368&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

Incidentally, I found that insufficient damping in the rear can cause the hound to dive forward a bit. When I put 80w oil in the rear dampers with the hard springs, it really made a big difference. Lighter oil is generally better though, 50w or 60w seems like a good compromise.

Have fun! :)

The Plopster

06-13-2005, 03:10 AM

That's about how much I paid for my chassis. I've still got my damaged old one here. Might be fixable but who knows. I tried selling it on ebay but no luck!

Oz dude..... I assume you were using the standard shocks when doing those jumps? Those things are sloppy as hell.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/the_plopster_1/2005%20Folders/Photos/Stuff/Shock%20Tower%20Mod.JPG

Those are shocks that I bought at my local model shop. They're made by Carson Modellsport. There's loads of travel in them, they're quite stiff and they lift the chassis a good few mm further off the ground.

Also, I converted a spare bumper into a shock-tower guard.

bakabaka

06-13-2005, 03:13 AM

Hi c_pd!

It looks approximately correct, the only thing I'm not sure about is whether the Revo uses 3mm diameter shafts as used on the DF-02's suspension. I wouldn't be surprised if it used something a bit thicker, since it's both significantly heavier and a nitro vehicle. The damper shafts would probably bend too easily otherwise.

I don't have a Revo or I'd check. you might want to ask around the Revo forum (I'm sure there has to be one at radio control zone) to see if someone would measure the shaft diameter for you.

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

06-13-2005, 03:26 AM

Hi KREATOR1!

Sorry to hear that, it must have exceeded the sustained amp rating of the ESC. There are a lot of low cost ESCs available that can handle more amps, for instance there's a Futaba MC330CR clone on ebay (13t limit) that's going for very little money these days. There's also the Dynamite Tazer 19t ESC that a LHS recently got in, it's US $30 and should suffice for bashing purposes. I'm going to get one of the two to tide me over until my brushless system gets back from Novak. This Mospower beastie works ok, but it's really intended for racing. Testing has determined a reverse capable ESC to be more fun. :p

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

06-13-2005, 03:56 AM

Hi snud!

You're lucky... I still have a few weeks of class left and finals after that. Good to hear you still have the hound! My brushless is out for repair, so I'll also be testing the brushed motor waters until then.

I'm probably going to pick up that steering link; aside from maybe the stock servo saver, it's the last hop-up I'm eyeing before getting more batteries or a second charger.

Have fun! :)

jimbo_style

06-13-2005, 02:52 PM

plopster, that sounds great, I really appreciate that

email me at kenneallyg@selwyn.ca

jimbo_style

06-13-2005, 03:12 PM

by the way, does anyone know of a good teutorial about basic motor repairs (mine's busted again).

also looking at these shocks : http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWZ76&P=7\
what do you think?

duane007

06-13-2005, 03:14 PM

Whats a good up grade motor form the stock moto for my Tamiya rising storm with the df-o2 chassy . And whats a good gear ratio for it also
Thanks
Duane

duane007

06-13-2005, 03:17 PM

whats a good motor to up grade to and whats a good gear ration

So, I was in the market today and I saw these wheels & tires in a stall for £7... couldn't pass 'em by. So Here they are on my Rising storm... can't test them as I'm still waiting for my drive shaft! Bought an 11t motor though..... anyone here envisage many problems with using tires this big?

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/the_plopster_1/2005%20Folders/Photos/Stuff/Chunky%201.JPG http://homepage.ntlworld.com/the_plopster_1/2005%20Folders/Photos/Stuff/Chunky%202.JPG

Also, I took the spoiler off and fitted a front bumper off a TL-01b chassis to protect the top of the rear shock towers!

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/the_plopster_1/2005%20Folders/Photos/Stuff/Shock%20Tower%20Mod.JPG

jimbo_style

06-13-2005, 03:36 PM

sweet......might fry esc...more strain on motor to push big wheels & change in drive ratio

also, anyone looking for the bathtub chassis, stellamodels.net has them for 7$ !

jimbo_style

06-13-2005, 03:50 PM

as a motor upgrade without changing ESC, I reccomend a venom fireball 21t, or if you're feeling dangerous 19t (this is only because theoretically it should fry the esc although I have had no problems running it). you also might want to buy 19t pinion and 67t spur gears (this 6$ investement really pays off even with stock motor)

The Plopster

06-14-2005, 01:12 AM

Just get a no limit ESC :D

vegasdrift

06-14-2005, 04:49 PM

Jimbo: Those shocks look like they'll work. They're 3 mm longer than the stock ones so it should raise you're ride height slightly.

jimbo_style

06-14-2005, 05:02 PM

thanks, just ordered them from tower. What's the deal, why did shipping off tower just double?

vegasdrift

06-14-2005, 05:44 PM

I don't know, it should be $3.99.

bakabaka

06-14-2005, 05:57 PM

Hi jimbo_style!

That bit me once before too. You probably added something that wasn't "parts express" eligible. Minimum shipping changes from $4 to about $8 if you add an item that isn't, eligible items have a green check on them.

Have fun! :)

jimbo_style

06-14-2005, 06:40 PM

no, that wasen't it, I only had a couple of items and they're all parts express elligible. maybe tower gives you half price on your first order?

bakabaka

06-15-2005, 02:52 AM

Hi jimbo_style!

You might want to send their customer service people an email if they overcharged you, the $3.99 shipping (in the US at least) is a stated policy on their website:

http://www.towerhobbies.com/help/partsexpress.html

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

06-15-2005, 01:14 PM

Definitely contact customer service. Even if you buy something that's not parts express with your order of parts express the shipping will still be $4.

jimbo_style

06-15-2005, 04:08 PM

what about for canada :(

TipsyMcStagger

06-15-2005, 05:36 PM

Okay, I must be a complete idiot. I haven’t had a chance to work on the RS for a couple of weeks and I’m just finishing it up (minus the shell). I bought a Futaba 2PL and I’m using the stock Tamiya ESC (TEU-101BK).

First of all, the ESC has a two-pin connector (red and back) and I have no idea what it's for. It doesn’t fit the receiver, not to mention all of the receiver connections are for 3 pin plugs.

I’ve plugged the steering servo into CH1 and the only 3-pin connector that exits the ESC into CH2. As far as I can tell, noting gets connected to “B” on the receiver because of the BEC circuitry.

As soon as I switch the receiver “on” while following the ESC setup procedure, the red light on the ESC blinks constantly. The instructions say it should blink just once. When I proceed with the setup, the red light continues to blink.

If I then connect the motor, I get a continuous beeping along with the blinking light.

Help an idiot out. What the heck am I doing wrong?

Tipsy

TipsyMcStagger

06-15-2005, 05:50 PM

Well…I just had a brainstorm. This Futaba receiver (R142JE) doesn’t have a BEC, does it?

I just plugged the 4-AA battery pack into the receiver and suddenly it worked properly. This REALLY pisses me off. I don’t know how I missed this. I thought I’d researched and determined that this radio setup was BEC compliant, but obviously not.

Now I’m not sure what to do. Do I attempt to exchange the entire radio package back to Tower?

Do I go buy a receiver that’s got a BEC?

Do I find some way to cram the 4-AA battery pack in there and just go with it?

How did I mess this up?

Tipsy

oohjamez

06-15-2005, 06:09 PM

u dont need the 4aa pack. u can connect that red and black connector from your ESC to your receiver's slot above ch1 and ch2.

BTW I have that receiver and esc. You have to use the BEC this way due to the way the Tamiya ESC was designed. It tripped me up the first time around also. :)

TipsyMcStagger

06-15-2005, 06:17 PM

u dont need the 4aa pack. u can connect that red and black connector from your ESC to your receiver's slot above ch1 and ch2.

It physically won't fit. It's too thick. Not to mention it’s a two-wire plug and the empty slot on the receiver is for a 3-pin connector. But, like I said. It’s a moot point because it doesn’t’ fit.

Incidentally, I couldn’t allow this to spoil my fun for the short term, so I just secured the AA pack to the battery strap with some rubber bands and off I went!

This is fun! First time “driving” an RC car since my Frog 20 years ago :) All it took was a little right steering trim and it seems to work pretty well.

Okay, how do I keep these Dirt Hawgs on the wheels? I’ve got all of 5 minutes on this thing and the tires are already giving me problems. They don’t stay seated on the rim. Do I have to glue them in place?

Tipsy

bakabaka

06-16-2005, 01:37 AM

Hi TipsyMcStagger!

I used the BEC connector from the TEU-101BK directly with the receiver, but then I have a different model of receiver. I picked up the 2PL on ebay without a receiver or crystals, bought the crystals from the same guy and used an extra receiver I was given when I purchased the Clod Buster. I'm surprised that the 3rd slot on yours won't take a BEC though, are you sure? The receiver that came with the RTR and the receiver I have now both take the BEC connector from the TEU-101BK. I just had to ensure that the wires were lined up with the same color of wires on the servo/ESC when it was inserted. With the Novak Super Sport ESC, the receiver seems to get power directly from the ESC's single connector. I was quite surprised.

As for the wheels, yup, you need CA "tire" glue to attach them properly. There are a number of different formulas, I used the thin variety since that's what the guy at the hobby shop gave me. Don't try using standard superglue though, it doesn't work terribly well.

Have fun! :)

The Plopster

06-16-2005, 02:00 AM

When you use superglue, the bond tends to snap. It's too brittle

bakabaka

06-16-2005, 02:01 AM

Hi Plopster!

Yup, I found it out the hard way. :p

Have fun! :)

bakabaka

06-16-2005, 02:05 AM

what about for canada :(

Ah, that must be it. They charge an additional $10 for Canadian orders using USPS shipping according to their website. Ouch! Is there a similar RC company based in Canada? $10 seems a bit steep for shipping to the same continent.

Have fun! :)

paulicat

06-16-2005, 08:10 AM

We have nothing like TowerHobbies up here....not enough market potential I think...
I was complaining about this earlier in the thread, so I know the feeling...I'm stuck with my lhs too, which happens to stock a TON of HPI parts, which is now going to be my next purchase...a used HPI Nitro MT.

TipsyMcStagger

06-16-2005, 09:34 AM

I picked up some thin CA yesterday. Worked pretty well. Too bad I’d already chewed up the lips on a couple of the HPI wheels. Oh well, I’m sure that’s just beginning of the scars this thing will show.

The two-pin connector on the ESC definitively will not fit in the “B” slot on the R142JE receiver. The only thing I can think of is either replacing the plug on the ESC with one that will fit the receiver or replacing the receiver. Obviously the plug is the least expensive method.

Tipsy

dugrant153

06-16-2005, 11:52 AM

TipsyMcStagger

06-16-2005, 12:19 PM

Hmm... I'm using an older R122JE receiver with my Futaba 2PL, and I'm using the TEU-101 BK also.

First, remember to plug the wires with the darkest wire (usually black) to the OUTSIDE of the receiver!!! I think I fried my Hitec receiver that way.

You may want to try an R122JE receiver since it has BEC plug in (I just jam the red plug in there and off I go!). I remember seeing the R124JE and I realized it didn't have the BEC thingy.

You're correct. The R142JE does not have the BEC. I guess I’ll pick up a R122JE.

I can tell just by looking at a photo of the R122JE that it has the correct receptacle for the red plug that exits the Tamiya ESC.

Tipsy

bakabaka

06-16-2005, 12:59 PM

Hi TipsyMcStagger!

Weird, I looked into it and it turns out only a few Futaba receivers support BEC. I wonder why someone would want a 2 channel receiver without this capability in an RC car? Good luck on getting that replacement. If you're running at 75mhz I do have an extra Futaba FP102 RX kicking around, although it has a _very_ long antenna. I've used it with my 2PL before, but I'm probably going to get another radio system so I don't have to keep swapping crystals. I could ship it to you for the cost of postage if you're interested.

Have fun! :)

TipsyMcStagger

06-16-2005, 01:09 PM

. If you're running at 75mhz I do have an extra Futaba FP102 RX kicking around, although it has a _very_ long antenna. I've used it with my 2PL before, but I'm probably going to get another radio system so I don't have to keep swapping crystals. I could ship it to you for the cost of postage if you're interested.

Have fun! :)

Thanks bakabaka but I bought a R122JE on eBay a little while ago. Wish I’d realized all this before I ordered the radio.

Now I’ve got a R142JE that’s basically useless to me. Guess I’ll put it on eBay :)

It sucks too, because according to the Futaba website, the R122JE is not as compact as the R142JE. I like the size of the R142JE. Oh well.

Tipsy

chamuleau

06-16-2005, 07:18 PM

hi all, hope it's allright just jumping in here. having no experience whatsoever I bought a very cheap RC car two weeks ago, thrashed it right away and decided I wanted something better. So I've been searching on ebay and the internet,found this forum and because of the enthusiastic comments I've ordered a rising storm today. but now I'm unsure what to do since i will need some more stuff to get it to work, like a transmitter and servo's, batteries etc. I wondered if you could provide some tips, do's and don'ts? I'd rather spend a little more now to get it working right, but don't want to throw away my cash. The guy from the shop tells me the transmitter does not make much difference and I could get any one, is that correct? what about hop-ups? how do I get the thing to drive as fast as possible?any parts I should replace right away? I understand ballbearings are the things to buy right away?

thanks!
Serge Chamuleau - Holland

paulicat

06-16-2005, 09:43 PM

Ballbearings for the wheels (theres 8 of them)
67t spur is good if you want more top end speed (but depends on the motor you decide upon, make sure you don't over gear the motor)
I dont have one, but the Novak brushless setup seems to kick ass from what the guys in this thread have to say about it.
Aluminum steering arm set - a must have for great control.
A good set of tires for the terrain that you'll be driving on - the spikes are really good for dirt, dirt hawgs seem the way to go for a mix of off-road and on-road.
A good set of aluminum shocks is a must as the only design flaw that I think everyone would agree upon is the suspension is too soft, causing the chassis to scrape the ground very easily.
Other than that, these buggies kick ass!

jimbo_style

06-16-2005, 10:56 PM

I agree, some good cheap shocks would probably be the towerhobbies ones I ordered (see my other post) they're like half the price of the Tamiyas (i'll let you know if they're good when they come) a good motor for beginners would be the Fireball 21t because you can leave the esc as is. 67 Spur is also a good idea, but what most people fail to mention is the batteries. You would ideally want an expensive one, but when you start something like an EPIC 3000mah pack would be good because it has huge capacity for a low price. Another good thing to upgrade is the driveshaft, I know this firsthand as mine broke (thanks again bakabaka) Tower has an aluminum one that fits for $5 (see my other post). Thats all I can think of now. Hope you enjoy your car and welcome to the hobby of RC.

bakabaka

06-17-2005, 03:31 AM

Hi Serge!

Welcome to the thread! I'd recommend universal joints, they're possibly one of the best upgrades I've put in the buggy aside from the aluminum dampers. Better outdrives don't hurt either, since the stock ones are a bit flimsy and a few people have had issues with theirs being out-of-round. TT-01 outdrives apparently work, and you can usually find Tobee metal outdrives (a.k.a. drive cups) for the DF-02 on ebay.

As for the transmitter/receiver, the inexpensive ones are mostly the same. I'd recommend looking for something with EPA (end point adjustment) so you can tune the steering though. The radio that came with the RTR I purchased didn't have it, but it's a very nice feature especially when you're getting used to steering the buggy. I just picked up an Airtronics Blazer radio system today, it's very inexpensive and includes everything you'd need including EPA. The only issue with it is you'll need to trim the tab off the ESC's connector to fit it in the receiver that comes with it.

BTW, if you haven't seen it yet you might want to have a look at the DF-02 FAQ I'm maintaining:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/

Have fun! :)

The Plopster

06-17-2005, 04:01 AM

I can testify that your FAQ is a great source of info. Keep it up!

oblue

06-17-2005, 08:52 AM

jimbo_style

06-17-2005, 10:14 PM

can anyone reccomend a good 19t motor. I have a fireball, but it keeps breaking down. I want something fast but with decent battery life.

thanks

The Plopster

06-18-2005, 04:18 AM

I'm using a Peak Panther 15t at the moment. haven't had any problems with it.

And check this out, I just won on ebay an auction for 4 battery packs, 3 @ 1500 and 1 @ 2000

All for £18 inc. P+P

And I also got a full set of teflon coated metal bearing for under £10

jimbo_style

06-18-2005, 10:34 AM

anyone tried this: http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5981286110&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
I might buy it, worth a try.

bakabaka

06-19-2005, 12:05 AM

Hi jimbo_style!

I've only tried 3 motors in my Gravel Hound; The stock motor, a 19t Fireball (probably what you've been using) and the Novak SS5800 brushless system. Out of the three, the brushless system is unquestionably the fastest, and it has the highest torque as well. Battery life is lower, but it's quite a rush when it's running. I haven't used the Fireball too much, I was rather disappointed with its performance having been spoiled by the brushless.

Aside from these, I've heard good things about Reedy motors. They cost a bit more than the Fireball, but they're supposed to be faster. If you have the cash though, the brushless is great.

Have fun! :)

Hound in Oz

06-19-2005, 03:24 AM

Hi all,
I just installed the tamiya aluminium dampers, wow. They really do make a big difference. Anyhow 5 mins after installing them I broke my fourth front damper stay, just ordered the square rc one, hopefully these dont break so easily.

While im waiting for the damper stay to arrive I needed something else to keep me occupied. Does anyone know how long jasons takes to ship to Australia? I was at the lhs today and saw the Team Losi Super Truck, I just had to have it. Running in on my second tank now. This should be heaps of fun, ill keep you guys posted on how it goes.

Seeya.

KREATOR1

06-19-2005, 07:52 AM

bakabaka

06-19-2005, 05:49 PM

Hi Hound in Oz!

Yup, the dampers are one of the best things you can upgrade IMO. The Square front damper stay is definitely stronger, and probably cheaper after you factor in the number of damper stays you've broken. I never actually broke mine, but replaced it to get the extra suspension adjustment.

As for Jason's store, it's usually under a week to the US. Australia's closer to Japan, so hopefully it would take about the same time if not less. I can't say for certain, but I will say that they tend to get an item to me faster than Tower Hobbies does, and Tower is in the US. How is the Super Truck? I've seen them a few times and they do look very nice. Nitro vehicles are a bit too much work with the tuning and cleaning for me though.

Have fun! :)

vegasdrift

06-19-2005, 09:38 PM

The LST seems to be a really good truck. Some people have had problems with durability but others have had no problems at all. The radio that comes with it is sweet though.

bakabaka

06-20-2005, 02:27 PM

Hi vegasdrift!

Cool. Both tracks I've been to were all nitro (except me of course heh) yet I hadn't seen anyone actually running them. I've seen a few in a hobby shop though, I figured they were being tuned or serviced.

Most of what I do see is 1/8 buggies, I think kyosho, and either T-Maxxes or Revos. Until the brushless is fixed, I definitely won't be going back to either track. ;) I've already had one guy run my buggy over when the battery was dying.

Have fun! :)

steadyc

06-21-2005, 03:16 AM

hres my storm before it broke at the track..

steadyc

06-21-2005, 03:20 AM

more track pics.......never mind....file is too large

paulicat

06-21-2005, 08:58 AM

Man, I wish there were a track like that near my house...

The Plopster

06-21-2005, 09:54 AM

Damn.... that looks awesome. There are no tracks around here, it sucks pretty bad.

chamuleau

06-23-2005, 05:39 PM

Chamuleau, I would seriously consider getting the Trinity Speed Gems Extreme motor if you are looking for something fast. However, you will need to upgrade your ESC.

my thanks to you all for the comments, tips and excellent FAQ. it took me some days to figure it out and I picked up and built the kit only yesterday. now I'm waiting for some more things i bought on ebay including the radio (I can not even use it at this time). The motor/ESC thing is still a bit too complicated for me, I'll save that for later and will just replace the standard one with the sports tuned for now. I think I bought almost every other item you recommended, 67t, racing steering, universal shaft, dampers etc.

I have a few questions left: since everyone is talking about these, I've seen carbon damper stays on ebay. these are probably very light but are they any stronger then the standard ones?

I will probably use it on the street a lot so I need some extra wheels/tires. what size would I need for street tires? and what material is best?

thanks,
serge

paulicat

06-23-2005, 10:04 PM

For street tires you could start with the HPI Super Nitro wheels...they are 2.2 inch and fit real nice on the Hound/Storm. A couple pages back has a pick of my yellow Gravel Hound with HPI Gunmetal Chrome Super Nitro wheels.
The carbon fibre damper stay is definately stronger than the stock plastic unit, I haven't replaced mine yet because it hasnt broken yet, but I will get the carbon fibre one when it does...

steadyc

06-24-2005, 02:28 AM

Damn.... that looks awesome. There are no tracks around here, it sucks pretty bad.
man i'm sooo bummed...I installed all my hop ups and I lose a diff cup...it's a metal one for a tt-01...oh by the wat the ball diff and one way for the tt-01 work in the df-02...I just got all my parts from jason's...need to make some adjustments so they won't fall out again...I really suggest new shocks for the df-02...I bought some associated shocks and the buggy does not bottom out on my track anymore......on landing it just soaks it up....where as before it would just bounce...the original oil dampers are pretty much just like friction dampers compared to some nice metal bodied dampers...I have alot of pics since I got my camera back..but my j-peg files are too large to upload :mad: really if you want to race this thing oil dampers are a must...as with cvd's....when you get new dampers no real suspension mods are needed...at least on the track I run..I can't wait for my new diff cups come in.

paulicat

06-24-2005, 08:15 AM

steadyc, do you know the part numbers for the Associated shocks you bought?

steadyc

06-24-2005, 10:25 AM

steadyc, do you know the part numbers for the Associated shocks you bought?
they are from a rc10gt...you will have to get mounting screws and also some shock spacers for the front...i reused my stock springs so therefore the spacers were needed...the springs that came with the shock were too long...even with my universals...too radical of an angle...i would show pics, but my files are too large....can't wait to race :)

paulicat

06-24-2005, 10:27 AM

Thanks! That at least tells me which model to ask for!
Good luck wht the racing!!

steadyc

06-24-2005, 10:44 AM

Thanks! That at least tells me which model to ask for!
Good luck wht the racing!!
Thanks

oblue

06-24-2005, 04:55 PM

Hey guys....I'm having a problem and I'm trying to narrow down as to what could be the cause. I recently purchased a Trinity Speed Gems 15T motor. I also purchased one of the OEM Futaba MC330 Speed Controllers. Sometimes when I drive the car at full speed I notice that it hesitates at times. It also does the same when going full speed in reverse. Could this be glitching? Is this something to do with the cheap OEM speed controller? I have heard about installing capacitors on the motor, but I believe the motor already has them installed internally. I'm just trying to figure out if I need to buy another speed controller. Any help is appreciated....thanks.