Ofna Ultra LX Comp

[2.5 guy]

My dad just got one, and it isn't in here, so I thought I might as well put it in here.Ultra LX Comp by Ofna (http://www.ofna.com/ultralxcomp.html)

[ExtremeDuty]

Somebody pls post your review on this buggy.
I'm looking for an economical & fun 1/8th buggy.

[surfer]

yeah i was looking at this too...but cant find any online reviews :(

[jjacobsn]

Just got one Monday and started the break-in process yesterday. So far it has been very easy to start. Seems well put together. A few things I've heard is that the servos are weak. Also, I found it necessary to take off a tiny bit of material on the Steering Stops on the lower front A-arms to ensure smooth operation with the suspension completely unloaded. I'll let you know what I think as time goes on. So far though it appears to be an excellent product for the price.

[jjacobsn]

6 Tanks in now, and the engine runs great. Starts effortlessly. Starting to tune it now for performance. Will let you know how it goes. Steering seems to be working well. I'll probably end up dropping in a 645MG servo once I get it up to speed.

[warden0503]

A buddy of mine bought this and let me tell you its no dissapointment.

In a world of 400-600 for rtr buggys, this is a great deal. But its not for racing, but rather bashing. If your bashing, than its a no brainer.

For upper $200 range you get it all, this thing even has lay down servos. The engine(.26 pull start) isnt ROAR approved, but you will be bashin anywayz, so who cares

Needs a hi torque servo for steering - but soooo do all the 1/8 buggies

radio is the same old run of mill - but good

plenty of metal, and some thicker than you would think at this price, 4mm shock towers

borrows the kingping from the 9.5 buggy

145cc fuel cell - so you can stay out longer

steel spur gear

great deal

[Spawntaneous]

The Lx Comp is a great buy. I beat the crap out of it and it keeps refueling for more. I will agree with the steering servo being weak....mines two months old and starting to go. But thats the only trouble i had with it.If your looking for alot of car for your buck then this is it....this buggy cruises....mine clocked at 56mph....not too shabby!!

[surfer]

hey there i just picked one up last sunday and started the break in yesterday (lots of football traing going on right now) but so far im on mine 3rd tank and this thing is awsome. the ease of starting it is great! especially in the 100+ degree heat.

but so far my only complaint is the stock steering servo, which can barely tuen the wheels while moving, and the body, it requires some trimming to fit properly.

but right now im looking for a truggy conversion for it, so i can get that bash height this baby needs!

p.s. when i got it i removed the stock servo and put in a JR z650m in before i ever started it. very good servo for 50$, perfect for the buggy

[rc3max]

I had the Ultra Comp. The break in was okay. The steering and radio sucked. The next couple of days, the engine would start quick, but make noise with no power. I hope the next buggy I buy will not be crappy...This buggy really really sucks. Ofna should be ashamed!!!! :mad:

[vwoomhilda]

just ordered mine from online, i should have it in a few days. i am lookiing forward to hitting the mounds in the re-developing park they are doing across the street from the house. i am still looking for reviews, is this car capable of running in races?

[synapse75]

I just picked up one of these (couldnt pass up the price) and I am very happy with it. Which is saying a lot because I have a pretty serious racing backround and my last buggy was a full option fioroni inferno. I bought the whole setup for less than what I paid for just a motor for racing. Im running it so far box stock except for a 3pj radio and steering servo.

First thing, if you get one of these buy a servo at the same time. The steering servo will not move the tires side to side or hardly at all sitting still on smooth asphault. If you factor in a 100 dollar digital servo yoo still have a better deal than anything else out there.

I like that it comes with hardened threaded shocks and hardened chassis and the overall design is very well thought out. Lay down steering servo and a very nice gas tank. I actually disassembled nearly the entire buggy after taking it out of the box and fit and finish was good with nice screws. The diffs look pretty beefy and are setup to possibly be oil filled with a set-screw and seals, whether they hold oil or not is another thing. I simply put some thicker grease in. I believe it has the same suspension as the violator, with adjustable tie-rods and front and rear sway bars. The suspension deffinintely isnt as refined as a higher end buggy but its decent.

Then egine starts right up first or 2nd pull, which is good because I hate pull starts. I have maybe a half gallon through it, and while it wont roast all 4 like a CMB it pulls decent and makes ok RPMs. The buggy seems to be geared a bit high, but it gives good wow factor and is good for the approach on a crazy jump. I broke it in on 30% blue thunder race and it holds a decent idle and keeps a relatively constant temperature.

I no longer have time for a serious race effort, but i plan on doing some small time racing with this buggy as well as having lots of fun with it. Given the price it doesnt effect my budget too much and it gets me back into it, thumbs up..

[vwoomhilda]

75
thanks for the review i just got mine ready for the big test tomorrow. i hope all goes well with it. i have to get that servo sooon. i thought my servo was broke when the wheel aint move on the floor. wheeeeh that scare is over. overall i like the look and the upgrades that came with it. hope to be putting in alot of dirty time with this, maybe even a little racing myself, have to find a closer track, track cost and travel dont add up!!!!!
wish me well
i will give a report after break in!!!
thank again.......

[synapse75]

Make sure the high end mixture screw is at 3.5 turns for break in, mine was in quite a ways. I ended up leaning the low a 1/4 turn...

I also put a few shims on top of the bellcranks to tighten the steering up, and put some light oil on the steering posts. Just because its cheap doesnt mean I cant have some precision.. :)

[RC30]

I am currently in the break-in process on my son's. Upgraded to a Hi-Tech 645 steering servo, really snappy now! Found that at full throttle the front brake arm would over center on the rod off the servo arm and apply the brake. I believe due to the need for it to be shorter to clear the spur gear. I pulled out the brake cam and ground off the back side. It now has plenty of room to move when it swings the other way. I still need the clearance the king pins from the arms at full suspension bottom and shim the bellcranks. So far I am impressed at such a low price.

[synapse75]

I readjusted all the links out of the box. Im still using the stock servo for throttle and brake and its not quite enough for hard braking. I noticed the arms rub on the hubs too, but I decided it wasnt enough to worry about. Prolly wouldnt hurt to shave some off the arm to smooth it out tho. I dont think I would take any thing away from the travel unless you run on very smooth tracks.

[vwoomhilda]

so far so good, i am 3 tanks in i an hoping to get the rest out this weekend. Has anyone takin this to the track yet? i was wondering how it handle on the track?
i have not experienced any rubbing but then again i am still in brakin.
I'LL BE BACK!!!!!!

[Ryan Lane]

Hey guys. I picked up one this weekend. It is my first nitro period. I have raced electric for years but never wanted the hassle of nitro. At such a low price I couldnt refuse. The LHS let me out the door with everything, fuel, after run, glow plugs, etc. for 300. I have run a full tank through at idle. I then put her on the road and ran a tank giving it about 1/2 throttle. Now on the third tank I couldnt get it to accelerate at all. I could get just enough throttle to get her moving and then it would load up and stall. She would start right back up, but then the same all over agian. I have no clue about the screws on the carb. My LHS tried to walk me through it over the phone but I think I messed it up. Could you guys tell me which screw is which and what the stock settings are. The manual isnt very clear as to which direction richens and leans the high speed. I also touched the dreaded mid speed needle not knowing what it was. Can some one help me out here please.

Thanks,
Ryan

[synapse75]

Do you know anything about tuning a carb?

It doesnt have a mid-range, the other needle is for low end. I ended up leaning the low end about a 1/4 turn. Does it start? The low end can be set with some tests and by feel. If you pinch the line it should die after about 3-5 seconds, if it dies right away its too lean. Thats just ONE way of getting a feel for it.

The high end should be at about 3.5 turns for break-in. Thats so rich it wont hardly move forward. I have mine set at about 2.5 turns which is still rich but im running 30% nitro. When its warmed up is only when you should adjust the highend. It should run around 200F or so depending on the ambient temp. The head is quite big and this seems to be a cool running motor, which is why I say 200F. It might be possible to run it so lean that its not overheating but starving for gas.

This motor is seems to be very easy to tune, very responsive, I would say it was a good choice for a starter. Some RTR motors are a nightmare, I think this has to do with quality control more than design...
You know all this will be different depending on altitude, humidity and temperature.

Ran this thing on a track this weekend and had an absolute BLAST! God i love 1/8 buggies. Beat the living piss out of it and didnt tweak anything, very stout, and it even handled pretty good. With 30% the lumbering .26 isnt even that much of a slouch. Nice all around package for the price.

[Ryan Lane]

Other than a 4 wheeler carb I know nothing about tuning. This is MY FIRST NITRO PERIOD. I know that the tall screw is my high speed. There are two more screws besides that one. There is a large brass screw in the side of the carb. There is also a small black screw located under the high speed. Then of course there is the idle screw over on the slide. I need to know the stock setting of the small black screw located under the high speed.

I was told that the engine should run close to 230 to 250 range. They said 200 was way too low. I am not flaming, I am just completely new to nitro.

Thanks,
Ryan

[synapse75]

Did you read my post? The motor seems to run cool and given the outside temps this time of year I think it would be hard to get it over 200 without starving it for fuel on the high end. Of course this will depend on whether you are in Northern MI like me or some place where its 85.

I believe the small black screw you are referring to under the high end is the dead stop. It keeps the carb from closing all the way when the brakes are applied. It also adjusts the minimum gap size, which should be about 2mm.

The carb on my ofna has the large brass screw, but doesnt have the "idle screw over on the slide", im not sure what that is.

[Ryan Lane]

Thanks synapse75. Yes I did read your post. I stated that I wasnt flaming. Just as you dont know where I am located, I dodnt know where you are located. The out side temp here in the deep south just happens to be 85 plus during the mid afternoon. After some further research I did, I think you nailed my problem. The small screw with the spring is the stop or idle setting. I think my low end is too rich, especially with the high humidity here. Again, thanks. I hope to have it purring like a champ this weekend.

Ryan

[vwoomhilda]

rtan sorry to hear about your problem i wish i could help but i am kindof new to it to, so far i have about 5 but i want to do the 6. anyway i had to replace the pull start, yeah i kicked up tooooooo much dust for it to handle, otherwise a nothing really. had a few times trying to get her to start but i turned the low needle and she started, so i thinnk its time to retune her. havent hit the park just yet been raining off and on so its swampy.

[Spawntaneous]

hey there....ive had mine for about three months. I need some help...Im not new to this but im stumped. I start the buggy and it runs but as soon as i give it gas it stalls out. I put in a new glow plug and new batts in the ignitor but the car just wont stay running.....im losing my mind...im about to give it the 50mph into the can if it doesnt shape up!


Josh

[synapse75]

Josh

Where do you have the high-end needle set? It should be somewhere around 2.5 turns out. After it starts, you need to let it warm up for a good 30seconds to get heat in the head before you give it gas.

I was actually running mine today, it freakin rips, im really liking it.

[eb4flys]

guys have been reading your posts, and can see alot of you are new to nitro, if you go to ofna.com they will explain all the screws on the carb and settings, dont get put of by problems we all have them, if you need help address your problem to me (michael) on the hyper 7 forum, or contact me through my team web page via the guest book or email link, good luck CONTACT ME HERE (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/)

[Ryan Lane]

Hey guys, just wanted to stop in with an update. It seems that the problem was just being way too rich. It seems that 3 1/2 turns out will all but flood the engine out. I returned my low end needle to flush and started leaning out. I am on tank 10 and still running so rich that I can comfortable place my hand on the head for a good 5 seconds. I am taking it easy and tuning in slowly. This is a good car and a decent engine, especially for such a low price. I just wish that OFNA could get better instructions from Hong Nor. I am thankful for all the help, and the OFNA message board is a good place for info on the car.

Thanks,
Ryan

[Spawntaneous]

Synapse,

I let it warm up but it still wont stay running after i throttle. Runs great if i dont touch it.....????????

Josh

[Ryan Lane]

Spawn, mine would do the same thing. Just keep working the throttle slowly. Mine was very rich and as I leaned it out little by little it stopped stalling. I took it to the local BMX track Sat for its first off road run. I was pleased with the buggy. It could stand to possibly be geared a bit lower, or have the clutch adjusted to grab a little harder. Over all it was a fun car to play with. I made mutiple 6 foot + jumps in height and never hurt anything. I did however find out that you must use locktite on the wheel nuts. After a nice collision with my buddies GT I had no damage, but he lost a front arm and wheel. I am pleased with the buggy considering the price.

[Ryan Lane]

Well, I started tearing her down for the first clean up and inspection. I did notice a few things. The front center dog bone seems to be incuring a lot of wear for some reason. I think it may be linked to the fact that the set screw for the drive cup had loosened enough to let the drive cup fall off when I removed the front suspension sub assembly from the chassis. The front lower arms seem to have extra material near the uprights that limits down travel and impedes movement of the steering. A quick shot of the dremel and that should be taken care of. It also appears that the fuel pickup fitting must be removed in order to access the screw that secures the tank to the mounting post. I must say that the car has faired well under my abuse with the only broken part being the pull start. The base of the handle has cracked and can cut your finger if your not careful. I have also notice the the coating on the pipe, header, and head will rub off very easily. Well she should be back together and ready to roll for this weekend. I am going to put her on an RC track for the first time.

[Ryan Lane]

Hey guys. I was looking into replacing the busings in the car with bearings. The brake cam bearings are easy enough. The steering bellcranks however dont look as though they will take bearings. Is the 9.5 pro bearing set up the way to go. Here is a link to it at tower http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCWZ0&P=7

Let me know it this will work.

Thanks,
Ryan

[synapse75]

I didnt realize there were bushings in the steering, and I even shimmed the slop up. The 9.5 steering should work unless the bellcrank on the comp is different to accommodate the lay-down steering servo.

[Ryan Lane]

That was exactly my point, the bellcranks dont seem to have a bushing in them. They just pivot directly on the posts. I have owned several high end electrics(JrxPro, FT-T3, etc.) and I am addicted to the smoothness of ball bearing steering. I have found that the Comps steering is not the smoothest. I have trimmed the stops on the lower arms and have to pick up some shims at the LHS. I feel that bearings would really help things out. Oh, and I have already replaced the servo with a nice JR set up. I will see if my LHS will order one and let me check it out.

[NJRC]

I finished rebuilding a used LX Pro that I got on a trade and so far it's pretty good but not great.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/RMaliwanag/DSCN1093.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/RMaliwanag/DSCN1088.jpg

[Privjpd79]

I had the Ultra Comp. The break in was okay. The steering and radio sucked. The next couple of days, the engine would start quick, but make noise with no power. I hope the next buggy I buy will not be crappy...This buggy really really sucks. Ofna should be ashamed!!!! :mad:

I have an Ofna Comp And have been racing for a long time And it has been A great car!!! :D

[docman2]

The Comp is the best bang for the buck out there... nothingelse even comes close. Replace the servos with high torque ones and it will run with anything else out there at the club level!

[Ryan Lane]

I have to agree with docman2. I walked out of the LHS with a buggy, fuel, extra glow plugs, after run oil, and few other little bits for 300 bucks including tax. I dont think anything out there can give that much for so little. It isnt a super power house, nor do I think it will win a national championship. It will however hang on the club level(with a servo upgrade). It is my first nitro and I managed to break it in and get it running rather well. I would recommend it to anyone who doesnt want a buggy for all out competition.

[sean68]

ahhh.... what a killer way to get back into the hobby!! u cant beat the price!!

[J_Bone]

I want a 1/8th scale so bad!! After seeing the price of this one I'm tryng my best to sale off some things to afford it.

Why are 1/8th scale buggies so exspensive?? There are other RC's that seem to have so much more engineering and parts inot them and they cost less... I don't get it.
It had to be that they rock!

[2mcgrath]

my friend bought one...not long after break in the steering servo stripped due to a binding problem..this was done at the factory so we had to change around some stuff in the front to get it steering right and had to put another servo in...had to shave some off the steering blocks on the aarms they were rubbing pretty bad..the motor makes pretty good power for an rtr motor...it is geared alittle high for the track we run on..and the suspension needs some tweaking to bring it up to par on the track..also have to trim the body some..also tires arent that great on the race track so need to swap those out..but for the money its worth it..

[2mcgrath]

well i now own my freinds i was talking about lol..what shock oil and stuff you guys running in this thing

[docman2]

Yeah the radio/servos are crap and should be the first thing to replace. Then again so is every other radio/servo combo in the other RTRs except the Mayhem. Bad part is the radio and motor is really the only good thing about the Mayhem.
The stock tires are OK for bashing or running on deep loose dirt but not for a hard track. At my track most people run crime fighters and I run Jammin Rippers. The rippers hold up longer. I still have the stock 30wt oil in the shocks but if the track is rough or has big air jumps you might want to go up to 50wt frt/40wt rr. The Force .26 is a little weak but its good to learn with. To get any real power out of it we have had to run them at 260-270 deg. Yeah I know thats a little hot but it works. When it dies then slap a Mach .26 in it and she will be good to go.

[Sinbad]

For upper $200 range you get it all, this thing even has lay down servos. The engine(.26 pull start) isnt ROAR approved, but you will be bashin anywayz, so who cares

Well, at most races, they dont care .26, if it was in a RTR they let you run.
Brian

[2mcgrath]

ive noticed no matter what i try on these shocks they just will not rebound like they are suppose to..i tried changing the shock oil out with some 40wt thats all i had at the time..and i dont want to run the collar all the way down jacks it up to high..i tried a little stiffer spring i had in the rear and put the rear springs on the front but still no good..im running futaba stuff in mine with a savage steering servo which is working fine for right now..i do plan on racing this buggy at the local track but gotta get the shocks figured out first..then thinking about dropping a hyper 21 8 port in it make it legal...anyone have any ideas?

[BruceG70]

I'm thinking of getting one of these Ultra Comps - where is the best place to get one if your LHS is way over priced? Locally they want $350 for it and the best price online I've found is Tower Hobbies for $290 but they are out of stock on them. Also what high torque servo would anyone recommend?

[Ball Racing]

Paul Coleman has hop - up parts for the ultra now, :cool:

[BruceG70]

Paul Coleman has hop - up parts for the ultra now, :cool:

So where can we get our hands on these?

[Ball Racing]

Go to the ofna main page, and look through the "new" stuff.
Get the part # and your LHS should be able to get them or Nitro house...

[astainback]

Should I get the Ultra Lx Comp rtr or the Ultra MBX pro rtr??

I don't know alot about the differences, so any help would be appreciated!!!

[docman2]

The MBX Pro RTR is an older version buggy and has pivot ball suspension. I would take the Comp over it. Now if you want the front pivot ball suspension they have the newer MBX "Comp" RTR. It also has onboard electric start but the price is higher. You can get the regular Comp from Ultimate Hobbies for about $250 or less if you call them. Its really about the best deal out there and I have enjoyed this buggy.

[astainback]

Ok, I see the difference with the mbx pro....

So now the question is MBX comp or LX comp??

thanks,
adrian

[astainback]

Does anyone have the MBX comp yet??

adrian

[synapse75]

personally Id rather have hinge pins over pillow balls, especially running offroad, more durable and less hassle. Also, I think the Ultra has a longer wheelbase than the MBX.

[Sinbad]

I have had pillow balls and never broke one, no problems other than seems to be more to clean up. Can not argue with ease of hinge pins.

[astainback]

So the hinge pins are the lx comp and not the mbx comp right??

I don't know alot about this buggy

thanks

[synapse75]

You are right. Get which ever you can find. The LX comp should be about 30-40bux less than the MBX. Like it was said before, the servos deffinitely need to be upgraded, but even so you cant go wrong for the value, especially when on a budget.

[astainback]

Budget isn't really a problem, I just want to get the better buggy..

are all the ultra parts interchangeable??

Also, how good is the force .26 motor?

[synapse75]

Budget isn't really a problem, I just want to get the better buggy..

are all the ultra parts interchangeable??

Also, how good is the force .26 motor?

the force .26 is "ok" if you run it on 30%, if you are going to be running against other buggies. If budget isnt a problem, and you want a better buggy, get this one..
http://www.ofna.com/hyper7-PCRpro.html

[synapse75]

SINGLE BEST UPGRADE

GET the PCR shock towers. They have WAY better geometry than the stock shock towers, especially the rear. This summer ive ended up racing this buggy way more competively than i thought I would. If anybody is looking for a cheap motor that performs well, the Mach26 is great, and its CHEAP. Deffinitely has more out of the whole accerleration than the ofna26, tunes easy and responsive and parts are cheap as well.

Ive had "spare no expense" inferno setups, but im into too many other expensive hobbies to get another one of those(motorcycle racing to name one). So, im working with the most budget setup possible just to stay into it. With some good setup work and consistant driving the buggy can be made to hold its own against the best of them. If you havent done so already, make sure you shim the steering bellcranks to eliminate some of the frontend slop.

[synapse75]

Here are the PCR upgrades.
http://www.ofna.com/teampcr/pcr-ultra.htm

anybody know how that rear brace is suppose to work?

[synapse75]

Did anybody see the article in Car Action, was that the right mag, that had the conversion of a violator to a truggy?

Has anybody tried it, or does anybody know if the monster pirate 2spd will fit on the comp? Anybody know the part number of the wheel adapters they used.

[Ball Racing]

The blazer truck ofna sells, is a "truggy of the violater-9.5.

[fourwheels0]

Does anyone have the MBX comp yet??

adrian
yes. got it about 2 week's ago. motor is a pain in the ass. run's too hot have to run a cold plug tune like crazy electric start comes loose put oil in diff's change steering servo battery pack reglue tires ect. ect. ect. but once you do all that it's not bad to start out with.

[Ball Racing]

Increase the induction timing on the crank,
raise the exhaust port, and cut & releive the transfer and boost ports.
Cools motor down and puts a punch to it......

[sk8r8919]

does anyone know if lx comp parts would work with the lx pro? i mean just like shock towers, a-arms difs and tranys etc. thanks

[TC3Racer]

I see several of you have had problems with the suspension and getting the proper rebound. A friend of mine runs this buggy and I admit its not too bad once you replace the steering servo. Right now we are desperately trying to figure out what is up with the suspension. Its not leaking - we completely rebuilt it and even tried different springs to no avail. Have you guys tried any different shocks on this buggy? If it would just rebound and be more consistent it would be raceable.

[2fast2slow]

I was wondering if anyone has the 2 speed and how is it?

[2mcgrath]

i had to change ride height and stiffen shocks up a bunch with 50wt oil to get rebound..also played around with shock positioning.

[2fast2slow]

BUt how was you speed and jumping.

[2mcgrath]

well i must say works alot better than before..im not running the stock 26 anymore..i am using a .21 from a prp swift which is working out nice..jumping really isnt bad set up like this..have jumped it quiet abit..and so far like it like this..atleast it will rebound now

[dolphinchamp32]

whats the best 1/8 scale buggy under $350. indestructable,fast,and race worthy?

[Ball Racing]

Kit or RTR?
You not going to find much for that little money, other than a ultra comp 299.99

[dolphinchamp32]

RTR buggy

[2mcgrath]

i would try ebay and pick up a used hyper 7. they are very good for racin and pretty durabale

[dolphinchamp32]

what about the xtm pro buggy(x-terminator)its about $340!but ive had bad experiences with xtm's quality.

[TC3Racer]

I'd go with an RD Logics SHO, OFNA Ultra LX/MBX Comp, GS Storm http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLMB8&P=7

[2mcgrath]

ok guys whats the difference on this new design lx comp over the old one?

[Ball Racing]

The new one you mean that is now roar legal?
The new one that has less width?
The new one that has front universals now?

Thats about it....

[2mcgrath]

so really not alot of difference

[2fast2slow]

Hey,
I see that at Towerhobbies, they say that this car is discontinued. Is this true? Well any way, I have owned one for about 3 month now, and since than I was unable to find any carbon fiber parts for this buggy, or I maybe looking in all the wrong spots. So I was think of making my own graphite Front and Rear Shock towers, Chassis, Radio tray, and the Front Plate Joint. So I was wondering if anyone would like to buy any of these parts in Carbon Fiber?

[Ball Racing]

The old ultra comp is discountinued,,,,
The newer was was just released....

[Quinton]

I bought a used Mach .26 for my used buggy (haven't ran it yet). Any idea on what CB I should use with it for nice torque and top end? It came with a 15t CB.
I installed my HPI polished pipe, so we'll see how that performs with the Mach.
Any suggestions for a newb ofna lx owner?
Thanks!


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/279000-279999/279399_166_full.jpg

[Quinton]

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/279000-279999/279399_167_full.jpg

[2fast2slow]

Hey, I'm gettting my LX COmp ready for racing this summer, and so far all I have got is the Ofna True Lites, and I plan on getting a JP-1 pipe, and Ofna's 13 tooth lighted clutch bells, but I can not find anyone that sells, so can anyone give me a link. Also I was wondering I plan on drill some holes on my flywheel to make it lighter, just around the outside, so I was wondering how much should I drill out. Also with all this weight loss on the drivetrain, do you think my top speed will be affected alot, since i'm going down on the clutch bell?
Thanks

[Quinton]

I wouldn't be drilling holes in the flywheel

[Ball Racing]

Those vents on the clutch bell just really let the clutch cool better.
You won't see a increase in take off from it or top speed.
If you get a peeble stuck to the car or some racing clay clings to rims, you have defeated the rotating weight savings.....

Unless you run a a super samll track, and running a extreme revving engine I would not put a 13th on the stock motor on this buggy. It already has low gearing.
Running a 13 on this buggy would be like a 11 or 12 on most other buggies.......

[Quinton]

What would you recommend for me? I'm going to install a sportwerks .26 engine which is supposedly similar to the Mach .26.
Thanks

[oswald]

my LHS has had problems with those sportwerks .26 engines (in mayhem and mayhem ST) blowing up.
they have returned atleast 6 of them. so I don't know if that engine is the right route... just my 2 cents

[Quinton]

That blows, lol.

[oswald]

my friend has used the SH .26 engine with pretty good results in a LST. pretty cheap and a lot of power, don't know if it will work in Ofna though.

[4DMNYC]

I have a Mach 26 in my violator with a 15t cb. My buddy has the Sportwerks 26 in his Hyper 7 with a 14t CB. Both buggy's rip. I mean, they literaly will dig a trench in the dirt. It's crazy. Neither one of use has had any problems with those eniges over the past month or so. You'll need spacers for the engine mount though to clear the pull start.

[Quinton]

I got the SW .26 installed but I still need to get it tuned. I'm running a 15t CB. Do you know the needle setting for it?
I'm running an SH backplate and pullstart for now. The backplate doesn't fit perfectly but it's working thus far.
I need to figure out how to get my buggy to turn better though. It barely turns while on the gas but whips around real fast when I hit the brakes. Any tips?

Thanks!

[Quinton]

Anyone know how much torque the stock servo's put out? I'm wanting to upgrade my steering servo without paying $50 for a MG servo.
Thanks

[oswald]

futaba S3305 is a good upgrade for under 40 bucks. my local LHS has it for 37.95 and it works WAAAY more better than the stock crap...


now other question - I've been wanting a buggy for a long time, my friend has the LX comp and it seems pretty sturdy. I want something to bash with, jato doesn't cut it, tmaxx is just... well I need something that really caN withstand some serious bashing.

question - do they make a 2-speed tranny and has anyone here tried it? if yes, what results?

[Ball Racing]

Stock servos, just take up space, they are junk!
Go to ofna's web site they have 2 speeds, and other hop-ups..

[Quinton]

How do I remove the front and center diff to add oil? It looks like a PITA to get to the center.
Please advise.
Thanks!

[TrU InTeGrA]

k so ive had my LX comp for about 2 weeks now and as far as i can tell its a good buggy....the problems that i had we as follows: first off the stock steering servo had to go...not only for the fact that it could barely turn the wheels with a 6V humppack out of the box...quite dissapointed, so i changed it to a JR MG and it still struggles to turn the wheels..HRmm so turns out the balls that the suspension arms are hooked to and knuckles were REDICULOUSLY tight ..so i poped them out a couple times lubed the crap outta them and eventually they worked themselves in. The shell also needed some extensive work on the exhaust hole and engin hole to get it to fit right. other than that i used some 300k oil in the diffs and its been running awsome ever since

[Ball Racing]

300K good night man, toooooooo thick of fluid.....................................
Thats like locking all three diffs.
30K is still high for a buggy.

[Quinton]

I installed 10k in the front and center and 3k in the rear. Is that OK?
I'm trying to keep the front from unloading so bad

[TrU InTeGrA]

300K good night man, toooooooo thick of fluid.....................................
Thats like locking all three diffs.
30K is still high for a buggy.

well i absolutly hate having super looose diffs...when i got it stock.there was practically NO oil in the diffa...and im not FIlling the case either i put in enuff to stiffen it up ..the middle diff got the most the rear less and the front barely any....i might change my mind on this when i run it this Summer at the track or on pavement...cuz so far its only seen snow covered roads and the odd patch of pavement.

[Ball Racing]

You need the proper amount of oil to keep the gears from cooking.
Ofna uses a grease, we put on a silicone lube.
For racing generally you would have 5,000-7,000 front
5,000-10,000 middle
and 1,000-3,000 rear.
(I have noticed that a ultra can uses a thicker fluid than a hyper 7)
(In my hyper I ran 3, 5, 1)

The thicker you go in the center the more it becomes like a locked 4 wheel drive--say like a t-maxx.
If your front tires baloon alot then creep up on your center diff fluid.
You shouldn't need more than 30,000 in the center ever....
300K is 300,000 so imagine how much thicker that is....
Like peanut butter.. :)

[TrU InTeGrA]

Ball racing any downside on my gears running thick fluid ?

[Ball Racing]

It will make the buggy not be as quick to react or rather it may push entering a corner or come off a corner not as nimble as the thinner fluid,
but I don't think you could damage anything that way.....

[Re-Mix]

Anybody know of an aftermarket (proline) body that would fit on my ofna ultra mbx pro buggy? (old style with upright servos).

[Quinton]

Where can I get the adapters to widen the stance of my buggy? I don't necessarily want to install truggy wheels I would just like a wider stance.
Thanks

[Fluke]

besides truggy wheel extenders i can't think of any other way

[Quinton]

Right. I think they make 15 and 30mm extenders but I can't seem to find them anywhere. Do you happen to have a link or PN?

[jimbonj]

Right. I think they make 15 and 30mm extenders but I can't seem to find them anywhere. Do you happen to have a link or PN?


30058 - 15mm extenders
30059 - 30mm extenders

Hope this helps

[Quinton]

Thank you. I was hoping tower carried them but I guess not. Anyone have a pic of of a buggy with the adaptors?

[jimbonj]

Thank you. I was hoping tower carried them but I guess not. Anyone have a pic of of a buggy with the adaptors?

Try Nitrohouse, $17 + shipping.
I don't have any pics, but I think that the 30 mm's might make a buggy wider than it is lengthwise.

[Fluke]

tower do but you gotta really look for them.they are ofna hub extenders i think

[Fluke]

there you have it http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKHC4&P=7

thank you who?

[savg_ownr]

has anyone tried putting on suspension arms on from a truggy such as the jammin x1 crt? I know that they are only about 3 mm difference in width so if you grind off 1.5 mm off of each side where they connect at the chassis, it should work right? same with the upper, just modify them a little and get the rest of the parts you would need.

[Quinton]

I haven't, but what would be the point?

[savg_ownr]

uhhh...to convert it into a truggy maybe? obviously there are more things that need to be done to make it a truggy but this could be a starting point

[Ball Racing]

CRT arms are longer than that,,,
and ofna has the mutilator truggy that has the same king pin design front as the ultra comp.

[Quinton]

I would think it would be much cheaper to go with the extended hubs and mount up truggy wheels.

[savg_ownr]

CRT arms are longer than that,,,
and ofna has the mutilator truggy that has the same king pin design front as the ultra comp.

I realize they are longer than that, what I was refering to was the width at the suspension arm hinge pin...the lx comps are 55mm and the crt's are 58mm...obviously they will be longer, which is what you want and wouldn't have to use the hub extenders...I haven't seen the arms for the mutilator seeing as the truck hasn't been released yet but if they are more similar to the comps, then yeah that would be the obvious choice.

[savg_ownr]

I would think it would be much cheaper to go with the extended hubs and mount up truggy wheels.

but why half azz it if you can avoid it? might be more expensive in the long run which doesn't work well for people who are on a tight budget but for those who really aren't confined to a certain amount and want something sturdier and better looking, spend the extra cash....just my .02

[Thoff30]

maybe someone can help me I am totaly new to nitro and almost totaly new to rc. my lhs has the ultra comp 2 available and i have been debating whether or not to buy it. Does anyone know if the steering servo still needs to be replaced right ot of the box? Or are there any major issues I should be worried about? I do not mind fixing and maintaining but I will expect to run it right out of the box is that possible?

[Quinton]

You can run it right out of the box - it's a very tough buggy, but you will want to upgrade the servo soon. You don't have to, but you will want to. If you drive on pavement much you will want to get new tires too. All 1/8 buggies wear thru tires rather quickly.

[TrU InTeGrA]

You can run it right out of the box - it's a very tough buggy, but you will want to upgrade the servo soon. You don't have to, but you will want to. If you drive on pavement much you will want to get new tires too. All 1/8 buggies wear thru tires rather quickly.

im gonna have to disagree with u man...i just recelntly bought a comp 2 and ...not only would the Stock servo Barely turn the wheels <off the round> as soon as u are driving it ..it will lock up in 1 direction......after taking everthing apart to find out nothing was binding....i was super confused ..then i realized the Pivot balls are SUUUUPER tight...so i spent the next couple days luibng them and popping them on AND OFF ...ON and off......and eventually they worked themselves freee....BUT thet was after i put a MG servo in there too......U CAN run it out of the box ...but u will be dissapointed. i sure was...but once u get the servo upgraded...ull NEVER LOOK BACK and the comp is a super tough buggy.....and ull love it forever and ever... :D :D :D

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f285/TrUInTeGrA123/Picture022.jpg

[Thoff30]

In this price range would you recomend I look at any other trucks or buggies or is this the best bang for the buck?

Its just for fun no racing!

[TrU InTeGrA]

In this price range would you recomend I look at any other trucks or buggies or is this the best bang for the buck?

Its just for fun no racing!



well thoff30......if u would like to hear my oppinions n stuff...on this buggy and other trucks and stuff u are more than welcome to add me to your MSN and we can talk about it and i can throw some ideas at u and u can throw some questions at me too. Moxley6969@hotmail.com....add me and tell me who u are when u sign on....and i will be more than willing to help u out :) :)

Nick AkA TrU InTeGrA

[Quinton]

integra - You're not disagreeing with me, you're just putting it in your own words to make yourself happy. :)

thoff - You should be happy with it. I am with mine. It's tough, FAST and flies thru the air nicely!

[TrU InTeGrA]

Quinton .....im confused are u saying that i am disagreeing with u? ? i dont get it..sorry i must be dull today..explain plz.

[Thoff30]

Well based on what I have read I think this will be the buggy for me. My plan is to buy it check the car over real good then tighten/loosen and grease what ever needs to be done but it seems once all is in order I will be in great shape!

Does it come with detailed instructions for maintenance?

Can any one point me to a good post for information on how to properly maintain and or repair as needed?

I do not know anything about this not even how many tanks at idle then 1/4 throttle then 1/2 throttle before I am ready to realy go. Any and all info will be helpfull.

[Quinton]

thoff if you want you can email me and I can get you up to speed on all the above.
quinton4@cox.net

[Ball Racing]

You will NOT find a 1/8th scale buggy of any other brand for under $299..

[TrU InTeGrA]

You will NOT find a 1/8th scale buggy of any other brand for under $299..

TURE dat.....cheepest RTR Nitro buggy there is...Theoff30 email me if u got any questions...

[Fluke]

TURE dat.....cheepest RTR Nitro buggy there is...Theoff30 email me if u got any questions...


nope cheapest would be smartech and the bazooka is a nice car. :p

[riverat1540]

I just got what i believe to be an ofna gt lx w/ force .21 4port engine and im wondering what to expect from this thing so far ive relized lock tite is a must and other than that its pretty durable but i also have an xtm x-terminator which blows the pants off this car i dont really like the reliability of the xtm motor so im looking for an ofna substitute maybe for both buggys in the long run. will the new big block (force 32) fit cause i may go truggy in the future im looking to spend no more that 130 an engine but thats a ball park figure. also what upgrades for the ofna are worth getting im thingking the $70 suspention upgrade is a must i saw it on ebay and i got to have it it looks so much more dependable. plus ive already bent 2 of the wheels some how they wobble a little and everything is snug so im thinking maybe bent axles but those come in the kit so ill have to live with it till then. any suggestions gratly appreaciated.

[Quinton]

I'm running the sportwerks .26 engine in mine and it HAULS. It's basicly the big brother to your xtm engine but without the problems of hot restarts, etc. I'm more then content with it. Here's one

http://cgi.ebay.com/S-26-sportwerks-mayhem-motor-RUNS-GOOD_W0QQitemZ6045033556QQcategoryZ116078QQssPageN ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[MIKDALLY]

I just got my brand new ofna MBX ultra comp...I put the batterys in the battery box to check out how the servo worked, and nothing happened. I opened up the battery box and could smell burnt plastic. Sure enough the battery holder had started to melt for some reason, and the batterys where hot a hell. Does anyone have a clue why this happened????

please help

Mike

[Quinton]

sounds like a screwed up short. can you take it back to the hobby shop?

[MIKDALLY]

Well I got it from Tower Hobbies, so I am going to call them today to see. I hope the will be able to help me out.

[riverat1540]

that sounds like a reall bummer. hope its not the receiver but even if it is it should be replaced free of charge.

[twism86]

Make sure the battery wire is plugged in correct to the receiver, positive to positive, neg. to neg. If its connected wrong it will heat up very fast and stuff wont work. I just got an Lx comp and i plugged it in backward and they heated up fast.

[MIKDALLY]

Twism,

That was it...thanks alot!

But now I am having trouble keeping it running. I can get it to start, but then it wants to take off like a bat out of hell. Does anyone know how I can bring down the RPM? The instruction book said the screw on top the motor should be set at 3-3 1/2 tuns out....should I change that setting?

thanks

[Quinton]

mikdally you will want to adjust your idle screw which is almost parallel to the ground. You will want to screw it out. Check your manual. Pop off your air filter and look at your carb opening - there should be a gap about as thick as a credit card at idle. If not turn the throttle dial down on your remote while watching it to see if it closes some.

[huntwv]

Hi, I was wondering which servo would be good for the steering and where is a good place to get one? Thanks

[Thoff30]

Well picked up the ultra comp on Sunday! What a blast.

[Quinton]

Hi, I was wondering which servo would be good for the steering and where is a good place to get one? Thanks

Welcome aboard Huntwv. Alot of people go with the Hitec 645 for an inexpensive upgrade. You can get them about anywhere. Start at www.towerhobbies.com It should be about $39 or so.


Thoff did you run your new buggy?

[Thoff30]

Yeah I went through about 2.5 tanks. Not knowing anything made it a bear to get going but after 1.5 tanks I can atleast get it to start with 2 - 5 pulls.

[twism86]

MIK, w/ the force 26 3 1/2 is like way to rich to run at all, i had the same problem. Bring it to around 3, maybe a little more but not much or exactly 3.

Is the high torque servo from futaba good, dont know the model #. Its like 40 w/ metal gears. Thanks

[huntwv]

When you guys/gals talk about the turns on your screws(3 1/2, 3 turns) how can you tell how many turns you are at? Sorry I am totally new to all of this.




Thanks for the info about the servos.

[Thoff30]

This shouldhelp with the whole screw turning thing:

http://www.ofna.com/guide-engine-setup-screw.html

I also found this on the Ofna website I am hoping it will help me with the same questions.

Turn both adjustment needles (screws) to flush in relation to the collar/sleeve. This means bringing the top of the screw head even with the top of the sleeve or collar in which its housed.
Leave the LSN (Low Speed Needle) flush with it's sleeve.
Then turn the HSN (High Speed Needle) in 2 turns from flush. Closer to 3 turns in from flush will make the engine run faster, but your temperature can get too high quickly. Stick to 2 turns unless you are more experienced.

You can read this in full at the adress below:

http://www.ofna.com/guide-tune-basics.html

[huntwv]

What are the basic things to check after a run and what is the basic maintence consist of? How oftet to change oils? What needs tightening? This kind of stuff. Thanks.

[Thoff30]

good question hopefully someone will post a detailed answer that we both can use!

[Quinton]

What are the basic things to check after a run and what is the basic maintence consist of? How oftet to change oils? What needs tightening? This kind of stuff. Thanks.

Read your owners manual first. There's no oil to change unless you want to change your shock oil for some reason. Nothing needs tightening unless you beat the heck out of it. The main thing to do is put a little ARO in the glow plug hole and clean and re-oil the air filter IF you ran on a dirty track.

[huntwv]

[QUOTE=Quinton]Read your owners manual first.QUOTE]


The owners manual pretty much sucks for this buggy.

[Thoff30]

Didn't get anything from the owners manual and still seems my carb is not set right but without any type of experience its hard to say.

I took the car back to the hobby shop and the guy there pretty much went over everything with me and showed me which screw to turn and which ones not to turn.

I do not know how necessary it is but i also bought a pre filter to make life easier. Also because we are up to 3 of these buggies now me, my friend and just bought one for my little brother we also bought a starter box. The guy told us this would be overkill but I figured as time goes on and I upgrade / get new motors and what not eventually i would need it anyway why not make life easier now. (wife not to thrilled with that reasonning but...).

Well next time I plan on taking it out is Sunday I will then take Pics to post and let everyone know how it went!

[Fluke]

good call on the starterbox.pullstarts are pain in the you-know-what

[Thoff30]

Do they have a better front bumper for this thing? Something that is a little strdier then what I currently have. I am not overly concerned as to whether or not it looks like every other buggy out there we are just bashing and any extra protection would be good.

[Quinton]

I hear ya there. I fabbed up a rear skid plate (out of a Maxx skid plate) so when I fly thru my driveway dip the rear chassis doesn't scrape. The front end needs more protection as well. LMK if you find one or think up something.

[Thoff30]

Picking my car back up from the hobby shop tonight had him get it ready by tuning the carb and all that stuff. The guy that got it ready for me is going to go over everything with me again including how to use my new starter box! I hope to never pull that cord again!!!!! Well all have great weeekend and will let you know how the car is running on Monday!

[Quinton]

A friend and I went to a track yesterday to mess around on it. It is a nice track but it needed some water. We couldn't hook up worth a poo so we had to drive kinda slow. Take the space our of rc pics to get the link to work.
http://www.rc pics.net/view_single.php?medid=75718

[BMXscratchesTRX]

Awesome video quinton... looks like a good handling buggy. I am very interested in geting one, I sold my traxxas tmaxx to get the money to get one of these bugs. Need a little bit more money and Ill be ready to order. YAY! So far from what I have read is that the servos need to be replaced in the near future, and there could be some lil problems out of the box to solve (body trimming etc.). The video makes me want to get one right now lol. I have a spranged ankle to so I really have nothing to do. If there is any other reviews or suggestions that would be great!
Scratches

[TrU InTeGrA]

Awesome video quinton... looks like a good handling buggy. I am very interested in geting one, I sold my traxxas tmaxx to get the money to get one of these bugs. Need a little bit more money and Ill be ready to order. YAY! So far from what I have read is that the servos need to be replaced in the near future, and there could be some lil problems out of the box to solve (body trimming etc.). The video makes me want to get one right now lol. I have a spranged ankle to so I really have nothing to do. If there is any other reviews or suggestions that would be great!
Scratches

I would suggest reading this thread from page 1 to page 7 or whatever were at now...cuz ther is tooons of good info in this thread :)

InTeGrA

[Quinton]

BMX - Where in KS are you?

[Thoff30]

WEll we went out bashing on sunday, and i have a few quick questions. Let me say this first we have 3 of these now all of which act the same so the questions apply to all of them.

1. When we start them up how long should they have to warm up before you can start going? It was 65F on Sunday and it seemed like if you hit the gas within the first 5 minutes of starting it you would stall. If you slowly increased throttle after five mins almost like a plane taking off it would start to move then you could start ripping.

2. Is that normal? We had with us a T-Maxx and a Hellfire that as soon as they started they took off.

3. If that is not normal what do I do to fix all three of these?

4. The zip tie the goes around the carb to hold the airfilter hose there broke on all 3 cars is that normal and is there a better way to hold it in place?

Thats about it for now. Other then that it was a great day! My one friend is about ready to sell his after the issue with letting it sit for 5 mins everytime you start it so I am hoping to solve this problem.

[Quinton]

It's normal for a big block to be cold blooded when first start them up assuming they're tuned up. If they're not cold blooded then they will be too lean once they do warm up. A good way to work around this is once you start it up, then pinch the fuel line off and on to lean it out a tad, then give it gas and take off. Get it out and run it to warm it up quicker and you should be fine (if it's tuned properly).

It's not normal to break zipties on the air filter however.

[BMXscratchesTRX]

oops i ment to put kansas city, but im on the missouri side. I noticed that you guys have a track in topeka. Now im really dissapointed cause I used to live there, and theres not really any good tracks where im at. I went down to texas for spring break, they have an awesome track there its indoor real big and wide. Oh, I have a quick question, would I beable to break in the engine with 30% blue thunder nitro? thanks

[Quinton]

Has anyone here done anything to the front end to reduce the slop? I usually prefer to a more snug setup.
Thanks

[vwoomhilda]

i got a question for u ultra comp lx owners out there.
i was told that the comp sits to wide in the front for roar standards so i was wondering if anyone else has heard this before. i called nitrohouse and they said no there is no difference- that ultra comp lx is the standard width for legal racing. has anyone heard different and if so what do we need to make it race legal- i heard that the mbx 9.5 front and rear suspension will work.
HELP!!!!!!!!!

[Quinton]

I've never heard of that either. My bud's Jammin is the same width

[Ball Racing]

The "new" ultra comp is suppose to be the "roar" legal width.
The old ones, had two sets of mounting holes in the arms, you could cut them down, and use shorter drives and make it narrow..

[vwoomhilda]

wat do u mean by "new" the comp 2 or the original ultra comp. i will look into the arms thing(extension) , is that for the front or the rear?
yeah i went home and did a search and found out that they are roar legal- but from what i dont understand is whats better wats already on the ultra comp or shoudl i chnge to the pivot ball spindles and not the c hub.

[TrU InTeGrA]

wat do u mean by "new" the comp 2 or the original ultra comp. i will look into the arms thing(extension) , is that for the front or the rear?
yeah i went home and did a search and found out that they are roar legal- but from what i dont understand is whats better wats already on the ultra comp or shoudl i chnge to the pivot ball spindles and not the c hub.


Im in the exact same dilema ....i dont know if i want to go with the C hubs or the pivot balls...any advise guys ? ? ?

InTeGrA

[Quinton]

PB has more adjustments and is suppose to be alot tougher. I don't have any complaints with the stock setup though.

[vwoomhilda]

i dont have any problems with it either i was just told that pb was better if you were gonna try and local race this, which is what i would like to do the season or at least get ALOT of run time at the local track and better my skills.
but there are sooo many unanswered ?s like if i use the pv setup do i have to change the shock towers or can i change them and if i change them do i change the gearboxes/diffs. - i mean the list goes on to where u can alost put a complete other setup on this particular car. so far i have been told that the mbx9.5 is the closest to us trading parts with?

[Thoff30]

Does anyone know if there is a truggy conversion kit for this buggy?

[Quinton]

You can get the adapters but it won't be near as long as most truggies.

[Thoff30]

With the adapters what do i get just a wider stance then add larger tires? What about the shocks do I upgrade them or stay stock? Would it be better to just buy a new RTR Truggy?

[TrU InTeGrA]

With the adapters what do i get just a wider stance then add larger tires? What about the shocks do I upgrade them or stay stock? Would it be better to just buy a new RTR Truggy?


I think so ....ive been told that if u put the Maxmiizer Adapters u gotta seriously change ur gearing to something ALOOOT lower cuz if not u will burn up your clutch shoes and melt cutch bells from the extra stress from the larger wheels.. just thought i would share that info..

InTeGrA

[Thoff30]

Yeah based on the research so far it may not pay for me to make this a truggy. I may just sell and reinvest in a truggy.

[Quinton]

The truggy craze will be over this year (my prediction). IF I were to get a truggy (and I'm not) I would get the RTR OFNA. It is MUCH bigger then the other truggies out that I've seen.

[TrU InTeGrA]

ya the Jammin CR-T 1 i think or something looks like A KILLER truck...i might consider 1 if this truggy crazy hits my local track..

InTeGrA

[psiturbo]

I do apologize the inconvenience of posting here.

I tried making a new thread but for some reason I do not have privileges. Sent discrepancy to administrator but he most be on vacation. The question is:

Would this bell fit the OFNA Ultra engine, the infamoust baddest engine of all... the Force .25?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6060625853&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

Does anybody know what other bells from other buggies that fit the Force .25/.26?

I ask because I got shafted one time when buying a clutch bell promised to work on most buggies and ended it had too much spacing between the 2 bearings and stick out too much.

[Quinton]

Not sure, but all HPI Savage .25 engine CB's should fit. The force .26 and HPI .25 are the same engine. I installed the 13t CB off my Savage onto my buggy.

[psiturbo]

Is it the one called the Nitro Star .25?

[Ball Racing]

ALL clutch bells will work,
if you think you got shafted, you just didn't know how to make it work.

Ofna sells a real nice shim pack.

You should always check to see if your bell needs shimming or not.

If it's too tight it will cook the bearings.
To loose and you can loose shoe contact area.

You can shim off the flywheel, and you can also put shims behind the bearing at the clutch nut, also put them on the outside of the bell where you 3 mm bolt holds it all on.

If it was a mugen, sport werks, ofna, hpi,duratrax , etc. bell you can make it work.

Never assume because it doesn't line up compared to the one your running that it's not right.

[off-road craz]

hey i need a lil feedback my buggy will not do a back flip i do it w/ my monster truck but can not w/ the buggy has any 1 ever done or seen some flip the buggy THX :confused:

[TrU InTeGrA]

how high is your jump....and how much throttle are u givin er ?...it can be done with a big enuff jump..and FLORING IT all the way throught the flip...ive done it a couple times...off this jump..Nothing special..just threw it together 1 day...and it works Suprisingly welll..

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f285/TrUInTeGrA123/DSCF0912.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f285/TrUInTeGrA123/DSCF0913.jpg

[Quinton]

Ouch that's a STEEP ramp on the bottom.

I pulled the first backflip I tried with my buggy. You want to let off the gas while on the ramp and then floor it right at take off.

[psiturbo]

ALL clutch bells will work,
if you think you got shafted, you just didn't know how to make it work.

Ofna sells a real nice shim pack.

You should always check to see if your bell needs shimming or not.

If it's too tight it will cook the bearings.
To loose and you can loose shoe contact area.

You can shim off the flywheel, and you can also put shims behind the bearing at the clutch nut, also put them on the outside of the bell where you 3 mm bolt holds it all on.

If it was a mugen, sport werks, ofna, hpi,duratrax , etc. bell you can make it work.

Never assume because it doesn't line up compared to the one your running that it's not right.


The bell extends way out. Shimming does not work unless I shave the flywheel. I got 2 Force .25 and it does not work. The crankshaft does not extend not even half a mm. So, before you come up being the guru just shut up and let others post correctly. I think I got the bell from another buggy style on EBAY. The Savage bell does work cause I got a 15 tooth now. Without using any shimms and the smallest bushing for the flywheel the gear still does not work. DAAA!

[Ball Racing]

You put the shims inside the bell end, when the crank shaft does not extend thru the bell,
just like on the LST.
Shims work behind the flyheel
between the flywheel and the nut
between the nut and the first bearing
between the second bearing, and the bolt.

The OFNA kit has little shims that fit the inside diamter of the bearing, so if the bearing overhangs the shaft you space out "making" the shaft seem longer.

So if the crank touches the bearing at all you can make it work...
I ran across the same thing as you on that motor, and just sorted things out, and was good to go.

Have you bought a OFNA shim kit?

So, before you come up being the guru just shut up and let others post correctly.

Why the hate?

[psiturbo]

I do apologize, no hate... Its a waste of time. I never hate people it just consumes, maybe some attitude thats it. I am way past the hate days.

ANyway, you say to put the shims or whatever, I am not putting anything. In other words... the crank does not stick out at all, so if I put a bolt on the tip it will choke the ball bearing.

Dont matter if I put shims inside, outside...whatever it be the bell cloggs the ball bearings.

Maybe I am missing something, so some pictures would help or a drawing. If you have any links to help me understand what you are trying to say.

[Quinton]

Recent pic on a track

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/279000-279999/279399_181_full.jpg

[Prelude14WRX]

Hello, I'm new to nitro and my friend and I are about to get into 1/8 scale buggies. Our carpet track closed up, so we gotta go where the crowd goes :D . This class looks like so much fun and I can't wait to get into it.

My friend and I have done a lot of research for RTR buggies, and it looks like the Ofna LX Comp II is perfect for us. We really don't want to spend $500+ on a buggy because many people told us that you don't need the best gear to win, you need driving talent and a well set-up car. Can anyone tell us how it does on the track and maybe be a few set-up tricks? Of course we will get new 125cc fuel tanks and a .21 down the road, but we would like to get used to the buggies stock...besides getting a new servo. Thanks for the help in advance.

[Quinton]

I haven't driven any of the higher end buggies to compare with mine, but all the small-time racin' I've done, it doesn't matter. What matters is that you stick the double or what-have-you, and keep all 4 wheels on the ground.
The OFNA's are very durable, the engine is reliable but not a screamer, you can install a rotostart on it if you wish. Get a new MG servo ASAP, as the stock is totally worthless, and a 5 cell nimh hump pack is always a good investment!

[4DMNYC]

I would also swap out the cast knuckles for some cnc ones. The cast ones are extremely weak IMO.

[Quinton]

Have a link to those?

[4DMNYC]

Here ya go.....

http://ofna.com/ultLXpro_opt.html

www.Nitrohouse.com has alot of options for the ultra serise
http://nitrohouse.com/options_ultra_comp_2.htm

[psiturbo]

I do like a lot many of the new bodies that are coming out for the Jammin, Hyper 8 etc...

Which bodies would fit the Sportwerks IF at all?

[shawn g]

Anyone want a ofna comp for cheap!!! just have to put the motor back in and few screws...decent condition, shipped to your door for $135.00 or best offer, let me know.. don" have any pics at the moment... :D

[Poseidon]

Hello all Rc car forum go-ers.

I have a quick question. Is this the car for me? Is this a good car for a nitro newbie? I have had experience with electric cars, and I want to get into nitro. I'm looking for something that can be upgraded to racer, and has a good price tag. I know this car is generally around $280, but is it a good value? Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. :winner:

-Poseidon-

[Quinton]

Excellent buggy. VERY durable and the engine is easy to tune. It's the same engine as the .25 in the Savage.
I recommend it to lots of people wanting to get into nitro offroad. If you just want to race to have fun then it will do that, but if you want to run with the kyosho's and mugen's you better be a VERY good driver. :)

[psiturbo]

The only difference between the 2 engines is the carburator.

Nitrostar: is made of plastic composite material to prevent overheating the fuel.

Second; the carburators cannot be swapped, the crankcase carb opening is bigger on the Nitrostar.

The rest is the same; piston, sleeve, crank, type of one way bearing, etc.

People say the Ultra sucks and that are not durable. I have had the same one, Ultra GT (the first edition, like 4 years old) that I bought from a kid who got hooked on dirtbikes. The buggy needed some TLC on the exterior. I am still using the same diffs, control arms as from the first day. Its kinda taken a toll, but it still runs.

[Poseidon]

Excellent buggy. VERY durable and the engine is easy to tune. It's the same engine as the .25 in the Savage.
I recommend it to lots of people wanting to get into nitro offroad. If you just want to race to have fun then it will do that, but if you want to run with the kyosho's and mugen's you better be a VERY good driver. :)

Thanks, I think you answered my question. I think this IS the car for me. All I'm looking to do is have fun and not need too much hassle. With this I think I can get it done.

Thank you-
Poseidon :)

[psiturbo]

I am not sure how the ULTRA LX COMP is, but I do know the Ultra GT does not have rear chassis brace.

To prevent collapse of the shock towers during a badly calculated jump the following has to be done.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/ULTRA/braceOFNA2.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/ULTRA/braceOFNA1.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/ULTRA/braceOFNA.jpg

A rear brace from the lower chassis support and another one from the radio tray to the tower. I love this buggy for bashing; solid differentials, very good adjustable shocks, not that heavy.

[Quinton]

Poseidon - Here's a vid of my buggy if it helps you any. I upgraded my engine, but everything else is stock. Just take out the space between rc pics

http://www.rc pics.net/view_single.php?medid=76074

http://www.rc pics.net/view_single.php?medid=75883

[Poseidon]

Hey Quniton...

I dont know whats wrong, but whenever I try to click Watch Now, my web browser freezes. Not my computer, just my Browser. I'm sure they're pretty good videos though. Is there another place you could upload them?

Thanks-
POSEIDON

[Quinton]

OK, here ya go bro.

http://media.putfile.com/Milford-track

http://media.putfile.com/Different-RCs

[Poseidon]

Thanks! This buggy looks awesome. It seems to have lots of punch and power. I almost have enough money to buy one. I'll let you know if I find any problems.

Thanks again

POSEIDON

[Poseidon]

Hey, I got a quick question. Is this the buggy? It says it is, but where it says what it requires, it says a 6 cell stick pack, and charger, and also says a battery charger. I know that you "can" use a hump pack, but I didn't think it was required. And where are the D batteries tower says it needs. Also it says I need a fuel bottle, but I though it came with one. Can someone please give me some clarifacation?

Heres the link-
http://cgi.ebay.com/OFNA-ULTRA-LX-COMP-II-1-8-4wd-NITRO-BUGGY-RTR-NEW_W0QQitemZ190031842453QQihZ009QQcategoryZ49215Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Quinton]

That 1 u linked to is the same as this one.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLTL4&P=ML
The D batt is for the included glow plug ignitor (if you want to use that one) and it should come with the fuel bottle.

[psiturbo]

http://www.ofna.com/images/ultralxcomp-topdown-big.jpg

The only thing you need to know is the buggy has no rear brace. Look at the pic and it only shows a lame flat brace that wont do nothing when it feels the punch of almost 8 pounds down on the dirt.

I enjoy my COMP suspension. The pictures I posted before shows what had to be done to prevent shock tower collapse.

I had a few bad landings on a dirt ramp and the tower bent, the diff case opened because the tower is bolted to the case, the weak rear brace bent, body got crushed on the back and almost lost the chassis. Many new buggies have a very strong rear brace this is so you know.
:teacher:

And also, the Kingspin ball style ends dont hold up on very hard landings. It gets frustrating because the ball pops out again and again then the plastic expands making almost impossible to hold the ball in its place during rought terrain.

The MBX Comp is superior and holds everything in place like its suppose to.
http://www.ofna.com/images/umbxcomp-axle-big.jpg

[steveo280]

hey guys, I am brand new to this so please forgive me if I'm posting this in the wrong place, I just bought my first nitro r/c an ultra mbx comp, I really hate this force 26 engine, does anyone know if you can put a trx 3.3 in this buggy and if you can will the easy start be compattible with ofna's power start? thanks in advance for any help.

steve

[Quinton]

possibly, but the 3.3 is a small block (its a .20) and it probably wont' just drop right in like other big blocks. are u wanting an engine with lots of torque, or are you going to race it? you could get a MUCH better engine for the same price or less then the 3.3

[steveo280]

If you have any suggestions on a better engine I would sure appricate it, im just going to be bashing it and i wanted somethig fast and easy to tune and i thought the 3.3 was pretty inexpencive at 152.00 but that just goes to show you what I know (LOL)

[Quinton]

I'm running the Sportwerks .26 and its a ripper! You can mount the rotostart to it as well.
Some other great engines are the Mach 427, LRP Z.28, Mach .26 to name a few.

[steveo280]

Thanks for the info, I think i'm gonna go with the Associated LRP z.28, thanks again

[ktm 274]

Please help, I just got my mine and was braking it in today. On my second tank of fuel I was driving around the oval when another car came up, I let off the gas to coast out of the way. I BARELY kissed the wall and the cast alum steering knuckle broke. My day ended 15 min after I got there. Could someone please direct me to an aftermarket set that would be better. Thanks.

[Quinton]

Go back 1 page and read and you will see a link to some.

And... WELCOME !!!

[ktm 274]

I will check that out, and thank you for your help.

[Zero2Sixty]

Hey everyone. I've been interested in this buggy for awhile and am going to make my purchase soon, however im still deciding between this and the RD Logics SHO. It will be my first nitro and used primarily for bashing. Any input and help deciding between the two will be greatly appreciated.

[Quinton]

Don't know anything about the SHO

[okieneck]

Don;t own a SHO, but I have heard nothing but good about it.. Guess it must be built like a tank, takes alot of abuse.. I would get one in a heartbeat, but no one aroung here sells parts for it. Guess I will have to go with OFNA, easier to find parts/upgrades.. OKieneck

[ofnateam]

Somebody pls post your review on this buggy.
I'm looking for an economical & fun 1/8th buggy.

i have an ultra lx comp ofna and it is a really fast car but i have had more problems with how it runs. i wish i had got a different buggy. save yourself a big headake and get something else. just giving u a heads up!!!!

[ofnateam]

Somebody pls post your review on this buggy.
I'm looking for an economical & fun 1/8th buggy.

i have an ultra lx comp ofna and it is a really fast car but i have had more problems with how it runs. it has been having problems more than it has been running. i wish i had got a different buggy. save yourself a big headake and get something else. just giving u a heads up!!!!

[ofnateam]

i have an ultra lx comp ofna and it is a really fast car but i have had more problems with how it runs. i wish i had got a different buggy. save yourself a big headake and get something else. just giving u a heads up!!!!

[Quinton]

I bet your nitro tuning skills are as good as your posting skills.

[Poseidon]

Chances are, if you've read this thread enough, you've realized that this is an absolutely amazing buggy for the price. I have one and am immensely impressed with it. The only thing you need to do, is buy a new steering servo for it, the stock one cannot turn the wheels on the ground unless the car is moving. Pop a new servo in, and you can even do some light racing.

I love this car, it's not top of the line, but it's a hell of a lot of fun/ability for such a cheap price. Perfect for a person that wants to get into nitro.