HPI Nitro MT 2 Forum

[tom p]

Before I bought my MT 2, I had a hard time finding threads just for this truck. So here it is , I hope

[StevePond]

Sorry it took a while to get this thread approved. The forum software was giving us a little grief. :o

[josh222]

I turned my SS into a MT1 with some mt2 part in there two, hopefuly i will have allmt2 parts in a while

[TomC]

OK guys, my biggest concern is tank size...see my reply in NEW STUFF thread for New Option Parts for MT2. Its kind of a rant, what do you think about my concerns? I cant get any sort of reply from HPI. The way I look at it, if you say something is available it should be, period.

[jgrs4]

I know HPI is coming out with a MT2-SS, and that will have the 100cc tank, so the new tank will probably be avaliable when that kit is released. I think around Feb. 2005. :confused:

[TomC]

See thats part of the problem. This tank was originally advertised as available in April, 2004. No tank then, none now. Technical support at HPI is unaware. Poor business practice all around.

[Jetskiboy77]

That tank should fit into the original NMT shouldnt it?

[Kenny T]

I believe it will as will the 125cc tank from an Ofna Ultra LX buggy.

[TomC]

You are correct, the LX tank will fit the MT easier than the MT2. I could get the LX tank in my MT2 but it wont be a real clean installation.

[Kenny T]

I'm glad I don't have to worry about tanks, fuel, engines and tuning them. :D

[TomC]

Im glad I dont have to worry about commutators, brushes or battery run time. LOL. Actually, I did the first 10 years i raced these things. Its all good.

[Kenny T]

I don't have to worry about the first two but the third one is the only one that bothers me. The engine I got with mine was pretty useless so i converted it to electric. It might go back to nitro If I get a OS 18CV-R.

[TomC]

That is what I have in my MT2, an OS 18 CVR. Very, very strong but thirsty.

[Jetskiboy77]

The tank for the buggy is a direct fit for the original NMT? Or do you have to cut material away. I may not do this because the weight of a .21 alrady puts too much weight on that side, so the extra weight would be way too much.

[TomC]

No, none of this stuff were talking about is direct fit. You gotta break out the dremel skilz. The HPI 100cc tank should be close to direct fit, but so far its vaporware.

[Jetskiboy77]

Well Id perfer not to break out the Dremel (lack of) skillz. I know two people who could easily make that tank fit, but Id perfer not to do anything to the aluminum I have.

[Kenny T]

The LX tank fits straight into the NMT but not the MT2. doesgo has it on his NMT.

[Jetskiboy77]

It goes right in with out cutting anything or dremeling anything?

[rshooch]

That is what I have in my MT2, an OS 18 CVR. Very, very strong but thirsty.



how do u like that engine?? i just installed the hpi .18ss. i love it i have a friend with a tmaxx and when we race now i distroy him. im kinda suprised at the speed and excl. i got from the hpi motor..but im still waiting for my 2 speed to come in :(.. another thing too my run times suck now lol but it looks like there is all ready pre drilled holes for a larger fuel tank.. now i just have to find one lol.

[Kenny T]

I think it does. Ask doesgo in the NMT thread.

[Scorpiosis]

what 2 speed will fit the mt 2?

[Scorpiosis]

how do u like that engine?? i just installed the hpi .18ss. i love it i have a friend with a tmaxx and when we race now i distroy him. im kinda suprised at the speed and excl. i got from the hpi motor..but im still waiting for my 2 speed to come in :(.. another thing too my run times suck now lol but it looks like there is all ready pre drilled holes for a larger fuel tank.. now i just have to find one lol.

what 2 speed did you order? i could use one…

[MT2 owns you]

i read ont he hpi forums that teh 2 speed sint a good idea if u do offroading..then i read another one that said it would mess it up if u do big jumps..so..if u dont do junmps but do offroading(of course)..will it mess up the 2 spped?

[Jetskiboy77]

The bad thing about 2 Speeds and offroading is that there is a one way bearing in the 2 Speed and it should be kept very clean. Ive run mine offroad and have done jumps plenty of times, and mine is still the original 2 Speed I bought about 2 years ago, 5 engines, and a lot of gallons of nitro, and it still runs very strong, and now its mated to a .21 Hyper 8 Port, and ive done a little maintance here and there. If you are worried about it, I heard that the 2 Speed from Wolfpack is a good offroad/big power transmission. I think if you keep it clean and keep up with good maintance on the 2 speed youll be fine.

[MT2 owns you]

something that hold up would be a nice additions to my car..12 replacement parts i think it is now..what 2 spped do u have if uve had it for 2 years it must be pretty good

[Jetskiboy77]

I have had my truck since the 8th grade and im in 11th now. Ive had the 2 speed in there after owning the truck for about 2 months, so yeah its been a while, and its held up damn good. Shifts EVERYTIME even with 2.5 HP beating on it, its never missed a shift and its very easy to adjust. I couldnt be happier with it, it may be my favorite hop up ever.

[MT2 owns you]

what truck do u have?..it cant be the mt2 if uve had it since the 8th grade.

[Jetskiboy77]

I have the NMT, not the NMT2.

[MT2 owns you]

cool i got the mt2(obviously) with a epic .18 engine..uh..ths racing exaust..thats all the UPGRADES..but..i need a new clutch bell dealy..clutch..pinion gear..sorta need shocks..wheels would be nice..a body..mines in 6 pieces..what else..hmm...rear shock tower..gonna get a carbon graphite one!...front diferential..2 dogbones..i lost the other two which i just found out today..fornt diferential..screws..someof mine are stirpping..um..what else...MORE FORNT HUBCARRIERS! they die so easily..i was taking out a screw and my last one stripped..now i have to buy yet another set..i THINK thats it.....but a 2 sped would be nice since i run on road half the time..e

[Jetskiboy77]

I have a Hyper .21 8 Port with a Cvec pipe and a 2 speed in an all aluminum truck thats been lowered and and on road truck tires.

[MT2 owns you]

damn...does the .21 strip ur diffs..i think thats what theyre called..well..i could use some aluminum..but i dont think its made yet for my truck...yea..i thknk ill just get he 2 speed anyway even tho i do jumps..sometime..but ill ge the hpi 2 speed..cuz i konw my lhs has a lotta hpi..easier to find..

[Jetskiboy77]

They are called the diffs and no I have never ever stripped a diff gear and I have only stripped one spur gear and that was 100% my fault for an improper gear mesh setting.
I dont think the aluminum is made for the NMT2 either, but im sure it will come. I think youll be fine with the 2-speed.

[MT2 owns you]

yea im not too hard on my truck..i ithknk...so it should be fine for a whie..im pretty good at keeping it clean too..

[Jetskiboy77]

Im not amazingly hard on my truck either, but sometimes I cant resist. I do like hard take offs with some wheel spin and some hard turns and slam on the brakes. I do drive hard, but ive been staying on road.

[MT2 owns you]

thats bsicly how i drive mine but with a bit more offroading since my town isnt exactly suited for everyday onroad drivng(small village wiht lots of old ppl-u could almost call it a retirement home) and then theres the part when my mt2 is sitting on ym airhockey table with the engine, lines, tnak, and the 2 dealys the steering think goes on..

[MT2 owns you]

thats bsicly how i drive mine but with a bit more offroading since my town isnt exactly suited for everyday onroad drivng(small village wiht lots of old ppl-u could almost call it a retirement home) and then theres the part when my mt2 is sitting on ym airhockey table with the engine, lines, tnak, and the 2 dealys the steering think goes on.. :(

[Jetskiboy77]

lol double post MT2. Why is it sitting in parts on your air hockey table? I think the steering pieces are called flange shafts.

[MT2 owns you]

i wanted to see what parts i needed to replace so it works well and theirs no surprise broken peices when i fix it with all the parts i get for x mas..then im goin in the snow with it.. :)

[Jetskiboy77]

What do you need to replace? And howd you break it in the first place? What parts are you asking for?

[MT2 owns you]

i need to replcae the shocks(well not really but i want new ones anyway) but i do need a rear shock tower it cracked at some point. i need i think all but 3 pins the rest of them are bent probably bcasue of a crash of some sort..considering my carelessness i havent crashed..like actually really bad that much at all..i need a new front hub carrier..the first..4/5 times i tihnk i crashed into a curb or somethin..somethims not that hard a hit at all..so i started using locktite..one time i dropped it the wrong way..stripped it..then the clutch/clutch bell/pinion gear(somethin went wrong in one of those) and that was in like august so i havent driven it since and 2 days ago i took it all apart to see what needed to be replaced adn the screw that had locktite on it had stuck to that long washer thing in the bottom..it was too late for the hubcarrier so i took it out and i had to break off the top of the ring to get out the screw..yea..no idea how that happened..i dont know how/why the clutch bell broke but it did..screws..somehow some of the screws wont come out and ive stripped them trying to take them out..im guessing party bad screwdriver..im hopin to replace them with the kind that need an allen wrench if i can..i need i think its called a new turnbuckle..i need a new fornt diff that happened i thnk around the time of the cluthc bell dont know how exactly..2 new shafts..dog bones i think theyre called..i lsot them appartently..the tires came unglued..kinda worn out anyway..wow...longpost...i kinda need a new bumper..kinda...some screws are bent too..i believe thats it...i dont really like aluminum for some parts because if u crash itll proably bend..depending how u crash and how bad..and i dont feel like paying another 40$..and they in my opinion weight the car down a bit..my friends got a alot of aluminum on his car and his is a touring car and its pretty heavy even for a turck..but if u know of some strong(er) parts that dont caost a LOT of money thatd be aweome

[Jetskiboy77]

I see, that sucks, get that bad boy running again!

[MT2 owns you]

yea it foes suck but i guess its kind of a good thing cuz i have a LOT of school work to do and thats one less distraction for me..i have ADD..i was entertained by a 2 inch peice of tape i took off of a locker for prebly 10 minutes..that should give you a good idea of how easily i get distracted..but i will get it runnign again either before or after i build my rs4 3 SS whihc i rally hope i get..i htink ill do it befre so i can be breaking it in and while its running i can fix my MT2..

[Jetskiboy77]

Lol I dont have ADD, but I am easily distracted also. Its too cold to stand outside and run my R/C's which is also good becasue I have a lot of school work to do too. You will love the SS. I love mine a lot, its a great car, especially when you set it up right and get some nice hop ups in the right spots. I even have mine sitting in front of the key board while im typing this. :)

[Kenny T]

Haha suckers, I graduated last week. :) No more high school for me. :D Too bad my truck's not running. :(

[Jetskiboy77]

lol, lucky you, I cant stand high school right now, and howd you graduate last week?

[MT2 owns you]

how the crapdid u graduae last week where do u live? or did u get kicked out i wsw thinkin it was march then remebered it was december..just like how i forot i was in ninth grade when they said "ninth grade goes to the girls locker room"..its surprisingly cleaner than ours..but still dirty..i dunno bout u but i like winter..not the cold part..but everything else..a little cold is ok tho..im like about 60 degrees F..and i have 4 more years of school! :mad: and its a private school too so its really hard!..but i dont thnk my parents would appeciate it i i put my car inside..and i dont have a comp desk right now..my momnitor is on my computer and my keyboard/mouse is onthe couch...and i unno if i told u this yet but my friends got a ss..fairly upgraded too..worth over 1000$ and bought it from his friend for 500$..heheh..im rambling..sorry

[Kenny T]

I live in Australia. :) School year follows the calender. Since it's nearing the end of year, it's the end of our school year.

I like winter I want snow but there is none where I live. At least the rain makes it easier on the drivetrain when it's going sideways. :D

Tell us more about the SS. See if you can get a few pictures of it.

[MT2 owns you]

when do u start school?(if u didnt graduate already) and whats the weather like in the winter..like..warm?..

[MT2 owns you]

about the 4th time i read ur post i finnally understood what u meant by "tell us more about the ss"..im a little slow int he head thanks to my ADD...but yea its got aluminum A arms. ths racing exaust..i think the same as mine..aluminum c hubs and hubcarriers(im not sure if all of them are tho) i think its got a titanium or w/e the really fancy one is driveshaft..um...what else..JR xr2i radio..im thinkin about gettin it for mine..seems really good..um..what else..stock engine..high performance airfilter also like mine..erm....i might have a few pics of it..i took a few of it to show silent ngiht..he lives like..2 miles away form me..yea..i cant find any pics of it..

[Jetskiboy77]

He put a grand into a car and still has the stock engine??? And Kenny, when does school start for you? Or when did it since you graduated now?

[MT2 owns you]

yea..its seems kinda weird doesnt it..the stock engien part that is..

[Kenny T]

School starts on the first week day in February after a 6 week break (for most of the other guys that is, we get more than 2 months off before Tertiary studies).

Winter's warm, I can run nitros all year round but I didn't since this is my first year in nitro and the truck's engine never behaved well so I ripped that apart and did the brushless conversion in the winter. I did run my trusty SS through the winter though. There were probably only about 10 days which I couldn't run a nitro.

That SS seems pretty basic. No aftermarket chassis or upper deck. Just suspension mods. Jetskiboy, how much do you think you've put into your SS minus engine? Mine was valued by the previous owner at 700 as a roller with engine.

[MT2 owns you]

its kinda basic and kinda not..but mostly basic..but its a basher..so what do u expect..thats probly what mine will be like but wihtout the aluminum a arms..unless i start breaking alot of them..i want my car to be light..im fairly nw to rc as well..ive had my truck since like..may..7th..i thkn it was..yea..i remember everything that isnt related to school..somehow i manage not to remember anything in shcool.. :(

[Jetskiboy77]

Im not doing too great in school either right now, so your not the only one.

Kenny- its a lot but not as much as what got spent on my NMT. Its probably somewhere between 350-400$ not including the kit and radio or engine. That would be my 10 second of thinking ruff estimate. I will get a real list of the parts and price if you want me to.

[Kenny T]

MT2, if you get alu arms, you'll just bend hingepins and break arm holders.

Jetskiboy, don't worry about the full list, just an approximation is fine.

I was getting A's until year 11 and 12 came. I mostly got C's. I just graduated the year, almost didn't graduate. But due to a vrey good mark on the final english assessment, I passed and I took like 6 other guys with me that were borderline.

[MT2 owns you]

so its cheaper to just replace hingepins and such than not get aluminum a arms?..

[Jetskiboy77]

I think aluminum A-arms are much stronger that what people say, with my little accident they were fine, hinge pin straight as an arrow, only the c hub bent a little. With my bash truck though, im definitly not getting the aluminum ones, ill stick with the stock ones. I only have them on my .21 NMT because the .21 has no problem pushing the weight, and it stays on road.

[MT2 owns you]

yea i broke it on like the first 2 weeks i had it..and one of them was my frind not me..the other one was becasue i forgot to assembly the antennae(finnally i went to my lhs wondering what was wrong...like a month later..) and it went out of range and hit my "neighors" "car"..or maybe i hit a tree..well it was that day..i havent broken one since..adn that was in may...but i dont htink im gonna et he a arms..cuz its sorta obvious i dont need them..and i dont wanna weigh down my car..just little aluminm things..c hubs..hubcarriers...little things..............

[Jetskiboy77]

Yes the little things can go a long way.

[MT2 owns you]

yea..indeed they do..i learned that when i started throwing my luch money change in my lcoker..really adds up

[Jetskiboy77]

lol I did the same thing, and it really added up, to about 300$, but lets not go off topic.

[MT2 owns you]

yea lets not...so how low/high/fast/responsive(handling/acceleration/braking//decceleration) can a mt2 go

[Jetskiboy77]

Well I made my NMT like a centimeter off the ground, its stupid fast, amazing accleration, and the handling is like a touring car. The braking is great too. I did a lot of work to make it a start in all these categories. If you put a .21 in there, metal brake disc conversion, threaded shocks with your perfered setup of springs and oils, and some other mods, its like a touring car. The NMT2 has a susposed better suspension design, so it should be better in all these categories, especially if you mod the parts like I did.

[MT2 owns you]

hmm.metal disc brake conversion..does it get a little hot after a while..being it metal?..well anywho how does it does it stop( like does it make the rear go up, slides on gravel or pavement at all?, starts to turn(went 40 down mainstreet and did like a 720..the little kids liked it)and how did u get it 1 cm high thats incredible for a truck..being t a truck...i kow im getting threaed shocks..well anywho i want to be able to like..maake my truck as low as urs or like 5 inches abov the gground(i dont know it its possible) easily..i was thinking 40wt shol oil..medum springs n the front hard int he back..and remember i want a truck that can go on raod and off road an still have good performance on both terrain..

[Jetskiboy77]

Im going to measure exavtly how much my ride height is for you right now. 12MM From the floor to the chassis. So I think thats 1.2 Centimeters, so I was close enough. The most ride height ive ever seen was 4 inches I think, but that wasnt with stock tires. I dont think the disc gets very hot, the disc is also vented, so it helps keep it cool. Its definitly an improvement over the stock and fiber brake disc. It doesnt "endo" (make the back end go up) but thats because the trucks weight distributation doesnt allow it to. If you wanted to make it slide, you can easily lock up all four tires if you set the linkage to allow it to pull that far, like I do. Its a great mod, for more info ask me or go to Kedars site.

[MT2 owns you]

aahh ok..4 inches is good..good indeed...yea..i dont really want it do uh..slide..or endo..just slow down extrememly quickly....wiht my uh..l;ack of drivng skills..thatd be best..and i forgot that brakes can have vents too..and 12 mm..thats crazy..

[Jetskiboy77]

lol Yeah its very low. 4 inches was with stiff springs and lots of preload with mahser tires though. These are the best brakes you can get, you shouldnt have any problem stopping at all. It brings my NMT to a very easily controllable stop amazing quickly.

[MT2 owns you]

yea im probly gettin the masher tires for my truck as well as some onroad tires..2 proline speed hawg 2's and 2 road hawg 2's..all on black mesh rims..and snow paddles fo course..ive learned normal tire arent good enough for nj snow..now..the duratrax shocks..what was the specific model?....same witht he brakes...

oh yea u got any vidoes of ur car?

[buzzsaw46]

Hi alll,

Is any one running an O.S. .18 cv-r in their NMT? and if so what spur and cb works out good? I just put one in my T-maxx and it's a great engine and now I want one for my nmt but I'm not sure how tall I should go for gearing.

[Jetskiboy77]

yea im probly gettin the masher tires for my truck as well as some onroad tires..2 proline speed hawg 2's and 2 road hawg 2's..all on black mesh rims..and snow paddles fo course..ive learned normal tire arent good enough for nj snow..now..the duratrax shocks..what was the specific model?....same witht he brakes...

oh yea u got any vidoes of ur car?

No I dont have any videos, but I will try to get some. It may take a while to get the videos, so didnt get excited just yet. :)

The Duratrax Shocks are for the Evader. The come in 3 different colors, purple, silver, and blue.

The brakes are for the MP-6 buggy. Ill get you links, but I need to restart my computer because its running really slow, and wont open the Tower page.

[Jetskiboy77]

I just thought of something when looking for the links. The Evader shocks may not be good for the NMT2 because doesnt it have longer shocks then the NMT, which the Evader shocks fit perfect. I think the front of the NMT2 shocks is the same as the NMT's rear, and the back of the NMT2 is bigger than the front. So you may not want to use those shocks.

The brakes will fit though. Heres the link: Mp-6 brakes (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXT697&P=7)

To see a very good detailed explanation of how to install those, check this out:
Installition Instructions (http://kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#metal)

[MT2 owns you]

yea..i just thought of that like..as i was going to the forums..weird..anywho..i think ill just get eh hpi adjustables..maybe..and yea..my computer gets slow like..after a day of being on..and my internet diconnects after like 6 hours..and my comps only 2 years old..wait..those are dual disc brakes!! hoyl crap!..and i assme they will fit my fairly stock mt2 quite well.. and i dont think ill et any good vids of my car or a while..1 1.2mp digicam..thats it...........for now.........

wow..that site is really helpful

[Kenny T]

buzzsaw, you should be able to gear at least 15/51. If that's not enough, you could even try the 49tooth spur, I think it is. The one that's smaller than the 51.

[Jetskiboy77]

That site is one of the most helpful sites that I have ever used, if not the most helpful.

[buzzsaw46]

Thanks Kenny, I ordered the 15t CB on sunday! I see they have a 47t spur for the savage I might need to get the NMT2 slipper :p

[Kenny T]

It would be easiest to get some masher 2000's instead of messing with slippers and spurs.

[buzzsaw46]

I have the masher 2k's already also, but I have never cared for the way the truck handles with them. Maybe the extra torque of the .18 will make them more enjoyable??

[MT2 owns you]

i just ordered the masher 2k's like 3 days ago..along wiht alot of other stuff so i can finnally run my rc!

[1stPlace]

Does any one know if the old Powerline parts for the NMT will fit the NMT2

[MT2 owns you]

i dont belive so. form what ive heard the mt and the mt2 are actually quite diferent part wise or else id have aluminum hubs by now..i need them..badly..but id ask someone else as well as i am not very kowledgeable on this stuff

[Jetskiboy77]

Some of the parts will fit, like the aluminum steering and aluminum center gear carrier. Not sure about the C-hubs. You are right MT2, although they look very similar the suspensions are quite different, along with the upperdeck, and a few other parts. Your aluminum parts will come though. Check out NewEraModels.com they might have some stuff for the NMT2 by now.

[MT2 owns you]

:D they do!!! :D :D

[Jetskiboy77]

They do right? I thought I remembered seeing stuff for the NMT2 there. Their stuff is pretty good too BTW, so dont be scared to order from them if you see anything you like. Im off to go check what they have for the RS4 3 right now. BTW, those are the mounts I used to put a .21 in my NMT.

[MT2 owns you]

i think ive heard of them..not sure..but im used to uh..proline/powerline..hpi..nothing else...i dont trust products ive never heard of unless i get some feedback from someone i know konws hic rc stuff and has it/seen it on another rc. now..i cant order online..so..would i be able to order from my lhs even if they dont carry it?? i hope so. and i DO see stuff i like! but i think ill stick withthe woven graphite towers instead of aluminum i wanna keep my car light

[Jetskiboy77]

Thats cool, I think I like graphite better than aluminum in most places too. But I definitly like it better on tourers.

[andy479]

How fast does the MT 2 go? I have narrowed it down to that or the Traxxas Stadium Maxx for my 1st RC but can't decide.

[MT2 owns you]

40mph? 45mph? im just GUESSING but im pretty satisfied with it. id ask jetskiboy.

[Jetskiboy77]

45mph is pretty high, thats what a stock HPI RS4 3 Type SS tops out at and that has a two speed in it with a pretty nice engine. Id say somewhere around 35 MPH stock.

[MT2 owns you]

yea im not too good wiht speeds all i know is that it goes faster than the cars on the road where i live (25mph)

[Stephen MT2]

Hi guys im new to this forum and i have a nitro mt2 and im looking to upgrade my engine and i have seen two one being on LHS website its a 15 picco engine but im not sure as to go with the 18ss which one would be stronger and most performance,where should i start upgrading body parts first its mostly stock apart from chrome CVDs,alloy rear hubs can you get alloy front hubs for mt2.

[Stephen MT2]

Stephen MT2 hey guys help me out how do i read my replies.

[MT2 owns you]

engines..hmm..NOT the epic .18 i have it and not satisifed completely. it lacks POWER!. id get an O.S. .18 cv-r or tz. now if i understand the second question right..to read teh replies you get..just come back to this forum(...you can see the replies before yours right?)

[DBracer]

Hey
I just got my first nitro car for my birthday, i had to go to a hobby shop near me just so they could teach me how to turn it on. I let it idle through a tank of gas, filled it back up after it cooled a little turned it on, turned the radio on and slowly pulled back on the trigger, but nothing. I tried turning it and what do you know, nothing! Does anybody know what im doing wrong? I checked for all the batteries and there all good. Am i meant to do something after i let it idle?

Also i was wondering if the steering runs on the batteries, or does the steering run on the nitro fuel?

THANKS!
:confused:

[Jetskiboy77]

The steering works from a servo that runs from the electricity of the battery.

[edisnione]

I have been out of the hobby for about 3 years now. I use to race onroad 1/10th nitro.

Recently the nitro bug bit me and I just had to get one again. I regret ever selling all my equipment.

Ordered the new HPI nitro MT2 18SS Kit.. should be here in about 2-3 days at my LHS.

Anyone have the new kit? any pros and cons? and is there an available 2speed for the MT2? the drivetrain looks similar to the rs4-3.. but dought that one fits the nmt2.

I also bought 2 cans of paint.. indy silver and racing red.. I still havent decided what kind paintjob im going to do on the body.. if anyone has any 2 tone paintjobs on their mt2 body's please post some pics.

[edisnione]

This forum is a bit slow i see..

The 18ss kit is finally built and ready to break in..

during the assembly of the HD diff gears.. hpi didnt specify how much grease to use so I just put a ok amount. wasted 1 whole grease tube throughtout the whole kit (hpi kit supplied 2).

When i use to race 1/10 nitro we use to pack the diffs with thick pink valvoline grease. Made our cars handle a bit better around the track. Think I should pack the HD diffs with this stuff too?

http://www.midwayautosupply.com/images/valvoline/616_3X.jpg

[PrimeTom]

okay my Tmaxx is all tricked out and I am ready for my new project.I have been scoping the mt2,but I want to turn it into an 80MPH + Bullet.Anyone have any tips or ideas. If somebody has one for sale (running or not)let me know

[headshothills]

Ok Guys...

As I posted earlier from another thread, I find now after purchasing 2x HPI Nitro MT2 18SS, this will be my new home. It was a major toss between the competition, the Traxxas-Revo or Tmaxx, the Team Losi LST, Traxxas-Jato(not Avail Yet) and the HPI Savage 25 or Savage 4.6(Not avail Yet). I settled with the MT2 18SS....

So, What are some Do's and Don't in building this thing?
What are some of the Better Hop-ups to do?
Are there any "MUSTS" in terms of upgrading?

I saw some posts about a 2 speed tranny. What will that do for me and this kit, is there even one avail?

Thanks

[edisnione]

Put alot of grease when you build the diffs.. everything else is cake.

The stock kit has plenty of hopups. I really dont see anything in need of a "must have" hop up.

The 18ss kit is sweet yo. Breakin mine in this weekend

[MT2 owns you]

to upgrade the stock diffs to heavy duty hardened diffs on the mt2 18ss, what exactly do u buy? is it just the final gears, or all of them? i cant find the other 2.

[mandt131]

hi guys just come over from the lightning forum seeing as i have brought 2 mt2s does any1 know of a 2speed to fit this model needs tobe a direct fit if poss

[doesgo]

engines..hmm..NOT the epic .18 i have it and not satisifed completely. it lacks POWER!. id get an O.S. .18 cv-r or tz. now if i understand the second question right..to read teh replies you get..just come back to this forum(...you can see the replies before yours right?)

I agree, the Epic .18 isn't that great. Decent rpm, but definitely lacking on the low end. For the money, you can't beat the O.S. .18 CV-R! Not sure about roto start with it but you can get it with a pullstarter or use a starter box (which I recommend). I don't know for sure, but I'd bet money the .18TZ is way too much for the MT2's driveline to handle.

I think this truck is just too heavy to move around "properly" with an average small-block though, especially if you run larger tires like Masher 2000s.

[MT2 owns you]

hi guys just come over from the lightning forum seeing as i have brought 2 mt2s does any1 know of a 2speed to fit this model needs tobe a direct fit if poss
look on tower. there is a two speed for the MT but i should think it would fit the mt2 as well. it wont be a direct fit because obviously, you need to change the clutch bell, but other than that it should..i assume by direct fit you meant need to change major parts but whatever.

now, i have a question, i want to upgrade to hardened diffs but i can only find 2 of the 4 gears that make up the diff in the hardedend version. so..are all the gears hardenede or just 2? if al of the are, where can i find them?

[doesgo]

If the diffs are the same as the original NMT (I believe they are), I'd suggest making sure you have the proper shims inside the diffs and use the machined RS4 on-road spider gears, then shim your pinion properly and run the stock ring and pinion gears. I've done that on my NMT and run it for more than a year without any problems, and much of that year it's been powered by a .21 engine.

[MT2 owns you]

If the diffs are the same as the original NMT (I believe they are), I'd suggest making sure you have the proper shims inside the diffs and use the machined RS4 on-road spider gears, then shim your pinion properly and run the stock ring and pinion gears. I've done that on my NMT and run it for more than a year without any problems, and much of that year it's been powered by a .21 engine.
thats all good info, but it didnt completely answer my question..uhless the machined=hardened..anywho..i have a few questions about what you just said
1. are the rs4 diffs a diferend ratio? i thought they were..
2. does "pinion" come from "pivot" by any chance? is there a pinion gear in the diff? is it the big gear?
3. whats a "ring"?
4. assuming machined doesnt = hardened.. what would the pinions be? hardened or machined? why not hardened? arent they better?
5. (the original question) in a diff, are the spider gears hardened? and the final gears too? sorry for asking so many times but its bothering me..if its only the fianl gears..it seems silly....
6. what diff grease weight is the best? how exactly do you shim? dont teh gears have to line up?

soory for so many questions but i know almost nothing about diffs. thanks for the info though. if i understand it rgiht your saying i can get the strenght of the hardnended diffs but for less money.
if you could clear that stuff up thatd help alot. thanks (sorry for the bad spelling, my hands are cold/stiff) oh yea.the reason i wanted hardened diffs is because one of mine stripped with the epic .18, it mightve been he t15 but i doubt it.

[nitrobug]

The diffs consist of the internal gears, they are the bevel gears which is part number 86014, no option available. The final gears are somtimes refered to as the ring and pinion part #A855, option which is hardened is sold as two pieces A856 and A857. I might be getting rid of my mt2. it has been fun, but have to many toys.

[MT2 owns you]

thanks man. seems kinda silly that there are no HD bevel gears. oh just so u know..i have put together and taken apart a diff, took apart my stripped mt2 and put together my RS4 3 ss diffs..the last one wasnt a choice..i just dont know the names of things..

[doesgo]

I said spider gears, but bevel gears is more proper. I guess I can't be for certain about the interchangeability between the NMT and MT2 so I'll refrain from possibly further confusing that issue.

The ring gear is the large gear that screws to the diff, it's got 38 teeth. The pinion gear is the one that has 13 teeth, it drives the ring gear, and is driven by the center driveshaft. The bevel gears are inside the diff case. There are two that are on the inside ends of the differential's outdrives, and the other two bevel gears seem to be "along for the ride" as they're not directly connected to anything. They share a common shaft inside the diff case.

Here is an example of what bevel gears look like: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBTA4&P=M

Ring and pinion: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB48&P=ML

[MT2 owns you]

oh ok. thanks for clearing that up..i knew what the bevel/spider gears were but ive never heard of a pinion in a diff. only on an engine. well..now i know i was wrong.thanks again.

[nitrobug]

any of you guys have trouble with stripping the front hubs, where it mounts to the c hubs?

[MT2 owns you]

the plastic ones? yea. alwas on the bottom too. i tried thread lock and it seemed to work a little better..

[nitrobug]

just to let you guys know, I drilled out the screwholes (the bottom ones) and put blind nuts on the inside of the hubs, I did grind the blind nuts down a little so they were not rubbing on the bearings, then thread locked the screws. so far has worked great!

[mandt131]

has anybody got any good pics of modified mt2's could do with some ideas

[MT2 owns you]

what do you mean modified? lcustom parts? aftermarket parts? both?

[mandt131]

what do you mean modified? lcustom parts? aftermarket parts? both?
aftermarket or custom wondering how to beef up suspension thinking maybe t-maxx or savage shocks and springs but also heard of hyper 7 shocks being fitted

[MT2 owns you]

Savage shocks?? Dude...I don't think they'll fit...you can only have so much ride height until the dog bones fall out and all that other stuff. I don't know if buggy shocks will fit but whatever...you think it would be possible to instead do double shocks, except with the stock size shock? That'd be cool. Anywho if your interested, my MT2 has a super chassis, epic .18 (hopefully a CVR-X soon) and THS exhaust, mashers, but not glued yet, threaded shocks, JR radio and electronics (stole them from my on road car...still needa break it in..why not use its goods?), ummm...let me check...ok that's all the after market. I'm working on a roll bar shock tower stiffener(hope it works) and I have an aluminum spur guard so its covered and wont catch on things as much(or less chance), and a steel skid plate over the plastic one. That was easy. Take out two screws, attatch, bend, hold with zip ties :). my friend is selling his RS4 3 which me nd my friend might buy for about $100 each. he doesnt like aluminum so...I GET THE ALUMINUM! :D. a wover graphite shock tower and some others goods too :D .

[mandt131]

Savage shocks?? Dude...I don't think they'll fit...you can only have so much ride height until the dog bones fall out and all that other stuff. I don't know if buggy shocks will fit but whatever...you think it would be possible to instead do double shocks, except with the stock size shock? That'd be cool. Anywho if your interested, my MT2 has a super chassis, epic .18 (hopefully a CVR-X soon) and THS exhaust, mashers, but not glued yet, threaded shocks, JR radio and electronics (stole them from my on road car...still needa break it in..why not use its goods?), ummm...let me check...ok that's all the after market. I'm working on a roll bar shock tower stiffener(hope it works) and I have an aluminum spur guard so its covered and wont catch on things as much(or less chance), and a steel skid plate over the plastic one. That was easy. Take out two screws, attatch, bend, hold with zip ties :). my friend is selling his RS4 3 which me nd my friend might buy for about $100 each. he doesnt like aluminum so...I GET THE ALUMINUM! :D. a wover graphite shock tower and some others goods too :D .
jesus i've only done a couple of things to my mt2 like the idea of doubling up on the shox bet that would look well cool i've got a 18ss motor outlaw race pipe blue springs black hpi mesh rims v grooved truck low profile tyres humer shell in impreza blue hitec 645 mg steering servo and a savage three piece clutch with ofna springs only just past running in but goes like stink hope to get the graphite front and rear shock towers soon and possible 2 speed from an rs4 if it will fit :)

[Kenny T]

Some buggy shocks should do fine.

[mandt131]

Some buggy shocks should do fine.
do you know anybody who has done this as i use my mt2 on and of road just want trick looks and good handling

[Kenny T]

doesgo fitted some buggy shocks to his NMT and it worked. A buggy's front shock was about the same length as the rear of the NMT. Since the the NMT2 has longer shocks than the NMT you should be able to use the buggy shocks and still get a not too high ride height.

[mandt131]

doesgo fitted some buggy shocks to his NMT and it worked. A buggy's front shock was about the same length as the rear of the NMT. Since the the NMT2 has longer shocks than the NMT you should be able to use the buggy shocks and still get a not too high ride height.
cool will give it a try if it looks good will try and post a pic or 2 :cool:

[MT2 owns you]

jesus i've only done a couple of things to my mt2 like the idea of doubling up on the shox bet that would look well cool i've got a 18ss motor outlaw race pipe blue springs black hpi mesh rims v grooved truck low profile tyres humer shell in impreza blue hitec 645 mg steering servo and a savage three piece clutch with ofna springs only just past running in but goes like stink hope to get the graphite front and rear shock towers soon and possible 2 speed from an rs4 if it will fit :)
that rs4 me and my reind may buy i mentioned earlier..it has a 2 speed..crappy prerally rs4 plus me=2spd MT2 :D :D if the other guy lets me. :( oh well its got a lot of goods, the rs4 that is, that the other guy doesnte want. yay for me!!!! :D . well anywho. how does that 645 mg work? good? i need some new servos, steering at least.i got the same rims as you but with mashers. the original mashers.(did i already say that?) i have a pair of onroad tires but ned another pair and some rims to mount them. my birthday is in about 20 days so i should be getting my mt2 pretty much done then. i dont need much more to satisfie me. ok ok..i do.but still..itll be ALMOST done. if you werent an onraod guy (are you?) id suggest titanium or aluminum shock towers, unless you dont do big jumps and stuff that require strength. still, sounds good!

[mandt131]

that rs4 me and my reind may buy i mentioned earlier..it has a 2 speed..crappy prerally rs4 plus me=2spd MT2 :D :D if the other guy lets me. :( oh well its got a lot of goods, the rs4 that is, that the other guy doesnte want. yay for me!!!! :D . well anywho. how does that 645 mg work? good? i need some new servos, steering at least.i got the same rims as you but with mashers. the original mashers.(did i already say that?) i have a pair of onroad tires but ned another pair and some rims to mount them. my birthday is in about 20 days so i should be getting my mt2 pretty much done then. i dont need much more to satisfie me. ok ok..i do.but still..itll be ALMOST done. if you werent an onraod guy (are you?) id suggest titanium or aluminum shock towers, unless you dont do big jumps and stuff that require strength. still, sounds good!
the hitec 645mg works bigtime in the uk itsabout £34 works best if using a battery hump but still works better than the hpi one on normal batteries

[MT2 owns you]

i guess ill upgrade to the hump pack later. do you have the stock tray? if ya do does the pack fit? how much does the hump pack cost? well i knew i had a bunch of servos on my wishlist and the 645 mg happened to be one of them im pretty sure http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=LXUZ89&P=K
(got my foams yesterday so i can glue the tires! :) (i think thats the third time ive said that)) thanks

[mandt131]

i guess ill upgrade to the hump pack later. do you have the stock tray? if ya do does the pack fit? how much does the hump pack cost? well i knew i had a bunch of servos on my wishlist and the 645 mg happened to be one of them im pretty sure http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=LXUZ89&P=K
(got my foams yesterday so i can glue the tires! :) (i think thats the third time ive said that)) thanks
a standard battery hump dropped in perfect but if your not sure take a trip tp your local hobby store they can tell you what models will or wont fit i had mine in with a load of stuff i took in px for a t-maxx

[JeJe]

Hi guys,

i'm one of those people that turned 31 and suddenly starts to realize he should start having fun again. In other words, got my rc-cars out (old stuff) and after one of my mates chrashed my fav ride into a brick wall i picked up a few mags. My mate allready ordered a MT2 SS-kit and i was wondering if you guys can answer a few questions before i start thinking about buying one myself. (Hope this doesn't get to boring)
1; i noticed there's a lot of aftermarket stuff for cars like the Savage en Revo Monstertrucks but i can't find this kind of stuff for the MT2? Am i looking in the wrong places or is the MT2 SS-kit allready equiped with steel gears and stuff? And can't you break suspensionparts?
2; I've seen comments on the 18SS-engine that makes me wonder if the next question is worth asking...Seems the SS18 is pretty good so is an upgrade worth it?
And if yes, what would you suggest? The S-25 looks like just the thing but can it be fitted? Or would i be better of with a 21BB? I guess there are more tuningpossibilities for these than for the SS18?
Ok, suggestions?

Cheers,
Joris (Belgium)
And no, i probably wont race the thing as there aren't many clubs that offer something for these kind of cars :-(

[MT2 owns you]

ok numba 1-yes thers a bunch of aftermarket parts, just not as many. it took me a while to find ANYTHING aluminum for mine but someone showed me this place www.neweramodels.com they amke aluminum and i should be getting some stuff from them for my birthday. id suggest that as soon as you get yours, buy aluminum front hubcarriers. also, if you havent been here already, towerhobbies.com has just about anything youll need to replace on your mt2. stock, and i think some alumiinum too, or maybe not wuite yet. tons of stuff. now, the mt2 18ss is pretty well quipped and you wont need to buy a whlole lot of stuff other than aluminum, but Al. isnt neccesasry, just extra strenght. and yes, you can break suspension parts, as well as anyother part on any other car. nothing is unbreakable. but the suspension is pretty strong, and much stronger i imagine with the aluminum front hubcarriers.

number 2-ive heard the 18ss engien is pretty good, but theres better. you dont need to replace it right away but ill give you two suggestions. a)keep the 18ss to keep as a spare or put in another car, maybe a basher that doesnt matter, and upgrade the engien to say, an OS .18 cvrx. the cvrx is a very good engine, reliable, powerful (about 1.6 hp) and lasts forever. thats what ive heard. only 100$ too, which is awesome. b) use the 18ss until it dies and upgrade to a new engine like the .18 cvrx i mentioned before.

numero three-if you decide to upgrade, which you probably will sooner or later, im pretty sure you can fit a .21, .25, or .28 in, but itll be a tight fit, youll need a conversion kit, and youll need to be careful that you dont destroy anythig with that power. this is not a fact, but hpi engines up until recently (about 6 or so months, maybe more like 3) have not been very good. my stock t-15 wasnt, and ive heard ad about others too. again this is not a fact, just what ive heard. also, there are tons of things you can do to a car for more power/speed/acceleration, not always together, probably a sacrafice of one of them will happen, but things like tuned pipes and diferent gear ratios can change things. ill sop here becasue engines and such arent my strong point.

hope that helps

[doesgo]

doesgo fitted some buggy shocks to his NMT and it worked. A buggy's front shock was about the same length as the rear of the NMT. Since the the NMT2 has longer shocks than the NMT you should be able to use the buggy shocks and still get a not too high ride height.

Here they are...please excuse my dirty NMT! I did the buggy shocks because of the added weight of the 125cc tank and big-block engine. Not sure if they're necessary with a stock-weight NMT or MT2, but to each their own. Buggy shocks are typically quite high in quality, durability, and smoothness, which is really nice.

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb6s.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb7s.jpg

[MT2 owns you]

dude, what mods have you done to that NMT???
my NMT2 could use some mods...the shocks for one.

[doesgo]

Doubled-up stock chassis
Powerline upper deck
HPI fiberglass brake disc
Hitec 625MG steering servo
HPI titanium turnbuckles
Mossdog bumpers
MT2 slipper clutch assembly with 49-tooth spur
MT2 rear outdrives, axle stubs, dogbones (Rush outdrives and stock NMT 'bones and axle stubs shown in pictures)
GS Storm shocks
OFNA 1/8 buggy 125cc fuel tank
O.S. .21RG engine (GS .21B01 in the picture, though)
RB 086 pipe
Savage header
RS4 touring car rear diff gears
3-shoe clutch with 14-tooth bell
RPM wheels with Pro-Line Masher 2000 tires
And then typical stuff like 5-cell hump pack, fuel filter, failsafe, etc.

I've got the stuff to switch to MT2 shock towers, bumpers, and the rest of the diff cups, outdrives, axle stubs, and dogbones, but I haven't had time to finish the project. :(

Here's a couple more pics. the fuel line has been cleaned up now and I removed the MGT primer because of leaks. You can see this truck in action, if you're interested, in the "Cold 2" video at www.slapmafro.com, and also for a short time in the "11" video. It's in many of our other vids, but not with big-block power.

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb1s.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb2s.jpg

[MT2 owns you]

dude, thats the most "hopped up" NMT ive ever seen, and im pretty familiar with the slapmafro stuff. i think i have about 20 videos of slapmafro alone on my computer. including "cold 2" and "11". yea, i was pretty impressed with those videos, although the ones in the snow dont look to healthful for the cars.

[doesgo]

Glad you like the videos! The snow isn't too good for the bearings and stuff, but it definitely helps reduce the breakage during landings! It's a nice change of pace, too.

I don't have a bunch of aluminum blingy stuff on my NMT, just the parts to make it as fast and reliable as possible. I could put a stronger big-block in it, but I'm afraid of destroying the diffs when I grab some throttle. These "sport" big-blocks seem to be a good compromise.

[MT2 owns you]

yea, i know what ya mean. im compromising between speed and weight. all aluminum pretty much except for a arms and a couple other things. probably shock towers, upper deck, or arm mounts/bumper. the front bumper and a arms i think would be the best place to remain plastic becasue they stick out so much its gonna give away in a bad crash the best to save the rest of the car. since the front bumper is attatchtced to the arm mount, im afraid that if i crash badly with it aluminum, it will bend the chassis. i might put a .21 in there, but im not sure. my friend has a tz so ill see how that performs. an os.18 cvrx might be enough power, well see. i dont want he car to be hevy on one side, light on the other, or strip the diffs, or be able to pull wheelies but ive never seen an NMT pull a wheelie so thats not to much of a concern

[buzzsaw46]

MT2 owns you,

How do you like my old MT? It just under went a complete rebuild with many new parts, still need to figure out how to mount the rx since I want to keep the top clean looking.

Lets see if I can remember every thing :p

HPI HD chassis
HD diff ring/pinion F/R
HPI ti turnbuckles
HPI SS hinge pins modified for no e-clips
HPI hardened motor mounts
HPI rear universal center shaft
HPI super shocks F/R
RPM HD ball cups
Carbon graphite arms
Powerline alloy steering with bearings
Powerline center gearbox
Powerline top plate
Powerline steering plate
Powerline F/R hubs
GPM towers
GPM rear tower braces
GPM bearing C-hubs w/bearings
OS .18 CV-RX
47t spur
15t clutch bell with BB(replaced needle bearing)
Futaba S131s throttle servo(96oz/in) good braking
JR DS8455 steering servo(96oz/in@.08sec) fast and laser sharp steering
Kimbrough servo saver
Spektrum DSM RX
NJHS Big tube header
Ofna Pipe(not sure which one it is got it from a buddy)
hump pack

[buzzsaw46]

Oh and I do get wheelies at times in the grass with my Trac-Ta-Gator tires with this setup:D I honestly dont think you need more power than the CV-rx is giving me But I would love to see what a TZ could do :eek:

[MT2 owns you]

*whistles* wow, thats amazing. doesgo-see that there? yep, thats basicly what im aiming for. all aluminum except a arms and front bumper(maybe). ive got threaded shocks on mine but i think i might replace them with super shocks. the adjuster..doesnt turn..i dont like em. for now i just stick clips on, threaded or not. does anybody know where to get an aluminum upper deck? although, since im getting an mt2 18ss because itd be much more expensive to get all those parts seperatly, im gonna have a badass basher which will be the better of the parts, and a plastic, really light, powerful, experimental one. all those spare parts dont deserve to sit there.

oh yea. exactly what parts from the mt wll fit on the mt2? it seems so far that the aluminum center dealy, steering gizmo, aluminum front bumper (aftermarket from powerline) and of course, the diff cases. anything else??

[buzzsaw46]

Thanks!! I have spent a ton of time researching the available parts to try and eliminate slop and stickyness(is that a word :p ) from the truck. Even with all the goodies I wasnt totally happy and did some mods to get it tighter. I havent gotten to drive it much yet but it is crazzy fast and like I said the steering is laser sharp now. The chassis is also incredibly stiff with the powerline top deck which helps with high speed stability. If you look through the last couple pages of the NMT V.2 thread you will see some of my personal touches that probably make my truck one of the most slop free HPI MT's in existance.

I know there is a Titanium top deck for the MT2 made by F4i but I cant recall the web addy. I'll see if I can find it.

I think you listed all the interchangable parts worth having.

Definatly stick with plastic arms and bumpers, I think alloy in those two areas is a waste of money. I wish they made the graphite arms for the MT2 that along with the lack of suspension adjustability kept me from doing an MT2 conversion. The graphite arms are quite a bit stiffer than the stock plastics but I have heard they break more easily, from the running I have done so far they seem more than tough enough, I expect things will break if I run into stuff ;) high speed cartwheels and one curb shot(buddy was driving it) did no damage.

[doesgo]

I think buzzsaw has the right idea in the engine department, the TZ puts out more power than my big-block, and the .18CV-R arin't bad at all either, as he's proving. Sure is easier to bolt in a small-block than a big-block, and you get a big weight advantage as well. I only did a big-block to be different, because my Epic .18 had sucked dirt past the filter, and because I had a spare .21 that needed a home.

I like his servo saver deal too, I've been meaning to try that. Definitely need something stiffer. I've got bigger fish to fry though, after this weekend's bashing I've got a few parts to replace! :)

[doesgo]

F4i Modelsport: http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/

[buzzsaw46]

MT2 owns you, I found that site. http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/nmt2upperdeck.html

You beat me by 7 min must not be on dial up :rolleyes: DSL comes on wed. then I can check out your vids

[doesgo]

LOL! Yeah, cable modem here, gotta love it! :) You'll love upgrading to DSL though, dial-up sucks.

[MT2 owns you]

yes, dial up SUCKS, id know. for 2 years i had 28kbps dial up. one time i tried downloading farmbash 7(?) and it took forever. i stopped after that, and very quickly started download after this christmas when i got comcast cable. man..computer fills up fast with cable..
oh yea..ive seen that site before..hehe..yea..i like titanium, but its so expensive..really not in my price range. if i find that i am breaking a TON of a certain part, even after upgrading to aluminum, THEN and only then will i get titanium. do you think it would be a good idea to get NMT a arms?
i came back here to ask how you got e clip less pins, but what do y know, you already answered!. ill brb..*clicks on NMT thread*

[buzzsaw46]

Yep dial up should go the way of the dinosuars, I've been on 28.8Kbs for like 5-6 years!! There are many advantages to living out in the boonies internet access is unfortunatly not one of them!! DSL just became available in our area last week, and I cant wait. Modem is all hooked up just waiting for them to turn on my account(TIC TOC, TIC TOC)LOL!!

I just threw my truck on the scale to see where I'm at and it's 4lb 9 7/8oz

[JeJe]

@MT2 owns you: thanks for that info and the link.
Now i know where to burn my money; any suggestions what the best place to start is?
I will run on tarmac and hard sand, sometimes grass.(a bit like a scaled down Supermotard-track) Small jumps compaired to what i saw in doesgo's movies :-) No jumping into trees or anything.
Oh, BTW, i ordered the MT2 SS18-kit, your enthousiasme and doesgo's music choice on "Cold 2" did it :-)
J

[doesgo]

Awesome! Hope you love it, JeJe!

[mandt131]

that nmt is awsome just hope 1 day i can afford the stuff to make mine as i want it nice 1

[buzzsaw46]

that nmt is awsome just hope 1 day i can afford the stuff to make mine as i want it nice 1

Well it took me 5 years to get mine to the level it's at now, buying a few bits and pieces here and there. The majority of the goodies where my tax returns this year, with the .18CV-RX I knew I had to stiffen it up and get rid of slop if I wanted good handling at the speeds I'm running.

[MT2 owns you]

jeje- get the aluminum front hubcarriers and a high performance air filter, and a fuel filter. i think those are the first 3 things you should get. i doubt it will cost more than $50

buzzsaw- exactly what speeds ARE you running?

[buzzsaw46]

Not sure yet, Havent run in a large enough area to get full throttle for more then a second or two. I do know my buddies Savage SS looked like slow motion next to my NMT. Just guessing here but 60-65mph should be possible.

[doesgo]

What gearing and tires do you have, buzzsaw?

[MT2 owns you]

wow. no 2 speed either. how do you fit a 15/47 ratio? wouldnt it have to be 15/49? or do you just move the engine?

[buzzsaw46]

What gearing and tires do you have, buzzsaw?

Right now I have a 15t cb and 47t spur but I want to try some bigger cb's, I still have to ease into the throttle to keep it under control. The only tires I have that dont blow up like ballons are my Trac-Ta-Gators, not ideal for on road but they grip like velcro in the grass!!

[buzzsaw46]

wow. no 2 speed either. how do you fit a 15/47 ratio? wouldnt it have to be 15/49? or do you just move the engine?

I did have to mount my engine on some spacers to get the pull start to clear the rear gearbox part of the reason I want a bigger cb. Once I nail down a ratio I like I will drop in my two speed and see how fast it can go for real!!

[MT2 owns you]

you mean 2 ratios right? hmm..how about something like...12 and 15 for the pinions..and..53 or so and 48... which reminds me of something..i want a 2 speed for my mt2, but i think what i will do is keep the 2 spd cb on all the time, but when i go offroad i stick in the 1 spd spur. this can be done right? and can you put the spur in either way, so that i could have either 12/52 or 15/52 (for example). basicly, does it matter which way the spur goes in?

[buzzsaw46]

Acctualy I only need to nail down where I want first gear then I can work out second once the two speed is in, 12/15 52/49 is way to low for good speed I'm thinking of picking up a RS4 3 threaded clutch bell so I can have a bit more adjustability that or a 15/18 with 47/44's I think they also make a 15/20 and 15/22 bell?? I know they had some with big splits and with all the low end grunt the O.S. has tall ratios dont appear to be a problem

[buzzsaw46]

Just got out of the body shop. I think it turned out pretty good, the pic doesn't show the color of the rear portion very well it is really purple not blue like the pic looks.

[mandt131]

that nmt is so sick cant wait till i can start sorting mine at the moment every time i try to take it out its throws down of rain bloody typical british weather

[buzzsaw46]

Thanks mandt131,

I got to drive it again tonight and with the single speed tranny I'm probably only in the low to mid 50MPH range, I also noticed a slight hesitation on a drag start so I need to tune the clutch a bit this weekend. If I cant get rid of the hesitation I will need to go a little lower on the gears for first with the two speed.

[buzzsaw46]

Any body want to buy some Masher 2k tires on black HPI super star rims? if your interested drop me a PM

[mandt131]

wicked wish i could get a chance to sort mine out since running in 7 static tanks havent ahd chance other than 1 tank with about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle to see wot differance an 18 makes over the t 15

[mandt131]

raining again today praying for sun shine 2 mora so i can try and kick my mates savage he needs an ass whooping as i'm sick of his constant flapping about how much better his savage is compared to mt's so if the suns out down to the local bmx track to kick butt.........i hope

[buzzsaw46]

We had sun today but cold and windy, Brrrrr!!!! My buddy broke both his T-Maxx(diffs) and his Savage(not sure yet) My T-maxx and NMT endured a much harsher bash session and came away undamaged(bodys dont count;) )

Oh ya I just switched the .18CV-RX in my T-Maxx from break in fuel(extra oil) to straight O'donelle 20% and it's like a new engine:O. Can not wait to run the next tank through the NMT since it will also be switched from my break in brew to straight 20%, Thing will be insane fast then:D. No problem kickin' the dog crap out of Savage

[JeJe]

Well, still waiting for the MT2...i guess customs are having their way with the car before releasing it. Hope they put it together right...
In the meantime i took my T2M (that's a rearwheeldriven buggy from when i was young), fitted a Kyosho GS11-engine and went looking for a place to do some driving.
This is what i found;
http://img161.echo.cx/img161/9797/img00095cq.jpg
http://img161.echo.cx/img161/7838/img00088qf.jpg

It's great but the sand gets everywhere so i soaked it in WD40 and afterwards rinsed it with water. Had to take the whole car apart to get everything properly cleaned. Any tips on what to do before you go out in this kind of terrain? Wrap everything in plastic? Or is there no way around a complete rebuilt when you've been eating dust for a few minutes?
Cheers,
J

[MT2 owns you]

as far as i know, there is no way to avoid that. thats shy i dont run my mt2 at my beach...as tempting as it is..i still dont. ive also heard that sand will find its way into anywhere on your rc..inside engine..diffs...anything..

[Jetskiboy77]

Yeah sand is like posion to our cars. It gets EVERYWHERE and can kill an engine in a heart beat. Its also very, very annoying to clean. You can run in the sand with the right precautions, but you cant avoid the cleaning. Its a lot of fun, but to me its not worth the clean up in the end.

[mandt131]

finally got shocks to fit on i managed to use 1/8 gs storm shocks and springs looks wicked hope to try it tomorrow if it dont rain again will post a pic or 2 when i get chance

[doesgo]

Cool! I did that on my NMT but wasn't sure how to do it after converting to MT2 shock towers. Definitely post some pics!

[mandt131]

heres the pics was pretty straight forward just had to mount on arm mounts on rear for clearance

[mandt131]

also having loads of trouble getting alloy parts for my truck in england i can get hold of loads of stuff for the nmt arms adjustable turnbuckles shock braces hubs and carriers but almost nothing for the mt2 will the arms from an nmt fit the mt2?

[buzzsaw46]

The NMT arms will fit on the truck but the shock mounting and front C-hubs are differant. Turnbuckles should be the same for both trucks I think? I would also advise sticking with plastic arms, they are cheap and easy to replace plus they give when you hit something:) alloy arms will either bend or transfer the load to other parts. It's really too bad that they dont make graphite arms for the NMT2 I really like mine so far they are a bit stiffer than the stock plastic and have held up well to the cartwheel crashes I have had, and they are cheap enough not to break the bank when they need replacing. The buggy shocks look great;)

[mandt131]

is it your nmt on slap mo fro productions downloaded all the clips that stuff is wild nice one bout the shox just starting to feel like i'm getting somewhere nowhopefully be testing them out later :D i was running with a outlaw pipe but its way to loud for town need to get sommat else :confused:

[buzzsaw46]

Nope the NMT on Slapmafro is Doesgo's, Mine's faster;) I havent seen doesgo's with the bigblock engine though.

[mandt131]

cool any pics so i can steal some ideas how is it you can fit a .21 in nmt but hpi says it wont fit in an nmt2 they say it doesnt have the strength i can only run an .18 in mine has any1 ever fitted bigger in an nmt2 if so any pics and details i heard that some1 fitted a t-maxx 25 in an nmt2

[buzzsaw46]

the T-maxx engine is 2.5cc or .15ci same as what the NMT2 comes with, but more powerfull. The O.S. .18CV-R is more than enough power for this platform, but you could always go up to the 18TZ still a small block but more power than a lot of the sport .21's.

[buzzsaw46]

If you look through the NMT v.2 thread doesgo has some pics of his truck with the big block engine.

[mandt131]

wicked guys thanx will go and have a look many thanx

[mandt131]

looks gooood i definatly have a long way to go

[buzzsaw46]

It took me almost five years to finish mine and there are still a few bits I would like to get but after all the money I spent on the NMT and my T-Maxx the wife cut me off of ebay.

[doesgo]

Nope the NMT on Slapmafro is Doesgo's, Mine's faster;) I havent seen doesgo's with the bigblock engine though.

I'd love to give you a run, buzzsaw! :) My .21 NMT is no slouch...

[doesgo]

Buzzsaw is right, it definitely takes time to build up a truck! Just enjoy what you've got, fix what breaks, and when the time is right, upgrade! I started with a stock NMT, then dropped in a Fantom .15, then an OS .15CV-R, then an Epic .18, then a GS .21, and now an OS .21, and that was over the course of two years. It's very fun to do, but takes time and money.

HPI is probably right, the MT2 can't handle most big-blocks. But neither can the NMT. A good way to find the weaknesses in a truck is to drop in a powerful engine and see what breaks. When I upgraded to a .21 engine my NMT was far from stock.

[buzzsaw46]

I'd love to give you a run, buzzsaw! :) My .21 NMT is no slouch...

I'm sure before the summer is over we will get that chance ;) at least if I loose I can blame it on my puny engine :D BTW are you still running Masher 2k's? I tried running mine but they balloon out so bad I loose all the handling improvments I have made, I think I will stick with the low profile hard carcas tires like the Trac-Ta-Gators or Speed Paws.

[buzzsaw46]

Doesgo, how does the OS .21 compare to the GS? I have heard alot of possitive comments about the .21RG.

[doesgo]

I'm still running M2Ks for bashing, but if I were to run on a track or something I'd run something else for sure. If I do go to "regular" 2.2" tires, though, I'll have to add more gear.

The 21RG is a great all-around engine. It's not a screamer, it's not a torque-monster, but....it's everything! It's the most consistent, most reliable engine I've ever owned. The pullstarter wasn't too good, but since I removed that it's been stellar. I bought it in August of 2003 and since then I've had it in my Savage, my GS Storm, GS SUT, and now my NMT. I used it to win many races with my SUT and Storm last summer, and NEVER had a flame-out or ANY engine-related failures all season.

If you want good (not great) power, great reliability and an amazing knack to hold a tune, the RG is it.

[ExtremeMT]

Has anyone seen Kedar's original NMT? you know..the one with quad disc brake setup, .21 engine, EVERYTHING on it is aluminum......auxillery lights, custom body with buggy wint, 2 speed....

What about the NMT some guys made a custom chasis and mounted dual .21s on?

[doesgo]

Kedar's site is here: http://www.kedar.itgo.com/rc.html

Iced's Twin-Engine NMT Project is here: http://www.hpiforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=7421 That thread has been very quiet for several months, not sure what's going on with it.

[ExtremeMT]

Yup....Iced NMT has a site of his own I believe with all the pics and the finished project...badass truck for sure.

[josh222]

how long do the mt2 shocks have to be?
i have 4 aluminum shocks that are 110mm long or about 4.25inchs long

[MT2 owns you]

they should be fine. if this helps at all... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHSR5&P=M ... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHSR4&P=M

[ExtremeMT]

Any length will work really....you can use the placement adjusters on the towers/a-arms to accomodate short/longer shocks...Im putting Tmaxx big bores on my MT...

[MT2 owns you]

Any length will work really....you can use the placement adjusters on the towers/a-arms to accomodate short/longer shocks...Im putting Tmaxx big bores on my MT...
actually thats kinda true ( :p ) i got touring car shocks on my "it"..its got rs4 and mt2 parts in one car..and a few custom..like the touring car shock mounts.. but i get the point..suspension travel............

[josh222]

There hpi super shocks actualy.. i converted my RS4 3 into a mt for a bit and now i just want to buy a MT2 18SS

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM701&P=7

[mandt131]

Does Anybody Have A Link Or Web Address For Iced Nmt Would Like To Have A Nose

[mandt131]

Yup....Iced NMT has a site of his own I believe with all the pics and the finished project...badass truck for sure.
HI MATE DO YOU HAVE A LINK TO THE SITE PLEASE :D

[ritchies rc10gt]

hey guys.i just got an M2 with no engine in a trade.hes gonna give the .21 motor mount for it too.but will the engine,mounts,flywheel and clutchbell from my nitro rush fit it?i know ill need a different exhaust but thats not a problem.my rush has an ofna colt .12 on it with the HP mounts.

[mandt131]

hey guys.i just got an M2 with no engine in a trade.hes gonna give the .21 motor mount for it too.but will the engine,mounts,flywheel and clutchbell from my nitro rush fit it?i know ill need a different exhaust but thats not a problem.my rush has an ofna colt .12 on it with the HP mounts.
THE MOTOR FLYWHEEL AND CLUTCHBELL ARE IDENTICAL TO THE MT2 IT WILL FIT BUT THE MOUNTS ARE NO GOOD CHECK THE BOTTOM OF THE ENGINE IF ITS THE ORIGINAL T15 FROM HPI IT SHOULD HAVE 4 HOLES TO MOUNT IT DIRECTLY TO THE CHASSIS :)

[ritchies rc10gt]

dont have the T15.my rush originally had the .15FE but now has an ofna .12 on it

[mandt131]

dont have the T15.my rush originally had the .15FE but now has an ofna .12 on it
OK IT'LL STILL DROP STRAIGHT IN IF YOU USE THE HPI AFTERMARKET ENGINE MOUNTS THERE ABOUT £5.00 IN BRITISH MONEY I'LL SEE IF I CAN GET YOU THE PART NUMBER :)

[ritchies rc10gt]

thanx i already have the mounts on the rush.i swapped the engine tonight only to find out im missing a few pieces for the linkage.i ordered them tonight so hopefully ill have them this week sometime.the guy i got it from was running a wasp .26 in it :eek: .the thing was insane!!not sure if im gonna go that route though.id like to actually have something thats fairly normal and easy to drive as everything i have has some power and kinda hard to just go out and play with it without breaking something or flipping it every 2 minutes.

[MT2 owns you]

yea, i know what you mean. thats why im not too sure i wanna get a .21 for mt mt2..but i wil nayway. i have 1.75 mt2's why not destroy one? i think the cvrx wil be plenty power for now though.

[twisted]

hey guys,i was thinking of getting a nt2 18ss or the kit. which is better and why. are there any known problems with either ? thanks

[mandt131]

hey guys,i was thinking of getting a nt2 18ss or the kit. which is better and why. are there any known problems with either ? thanks
THE ONLY REAL ADVANTAGE OF A KIT IS YOU CAN BUILD IT TO YOUR OWN SPEC RATHER THAN TAKING BITS OF TO UPGRADE THEM AND OF COURSE THE COST A SELF BUILD IS ALWAYS CHEAPER THAN PRE BUILT :)

[twisted]

well the rtr is cheaper at toewrs then the 18 ss kit. also the 18 ss comes with a differernt engine.

the thing i was wondering is if they upgraded the gearrs again in the 18ss. they say in the rtr they upgraded the gears and driveline. just confused me a bit.

also still wondering if there any weak spots.

thanks again.

[buzzsaw46]

Twisted, the 18ss does have some upgrades that make it worth the extra $$$ over the RTR. Like CVD's, HD diff gears, and the .18 engine.

[Combatcm]

I have an 18SS and I will be converting it to a monster truck and racing it. I already ordered some stablemaxx RPM rims and TRC paqman tires. I have installed a 52T spur and I have a 13T clutch bell comming in. RPM ball cups are also on the way. Each diff will be sealed, silicone filled and perfectly shimmed. To get the rims on I will use maximizer 2.2 to maxx wheel adapters. I have a HS-925 steering servo along with bearing equipped steering links. The chassis is also going to need a custom brace that goes from the center spur holder to the front steering assembly tray.

The only aluminum parts I will consider using are rear hubs and front uprights.

[mandt131]

I have an 18SS and I will be converting it to a monster truck and racing it. I already ordered some stablemaxx RPM rims and TRC paqman tires. I have installed a 52T spur and I have a 13T clutch bell comming in. RPM ball cups are also on the way. Each diff will be sealed, silicone filled and perfectly shimmed. To get the rims on I will use maximizer 2.2 to maxx wheel adapters. I have a HS-925 steering servo along with bearing equipped steering links. The chassis is also going to need a custom brace that goes from the center spur holder to the front steering assembly tray.

The only aluminum parts I will consider using are rear hubs and front uprights.
sounds wicked please post some pics when completed nice 1 :)

[mandt131]

Just Got In From A Serious Bashing Session Took Mine And The Wifes Mt2's Mine Has Come Back With A Broken Front Hub And A Broken Rear Hub (bad Casrtwheel)after An 8 Foot Drop And The Wife Followed Mine And Chewed Up The Rear Diff Happy Days Good Job Already Had Spares :) :) :) :)

[Combatcm]

I worked on mine for about 3 hours today. All my tower stuff came and my maxx adapters. The ofna bell stretched out way too far. I had to dremel down the bell part so the front bearing could be more than halfway on, its geared 13/52. The diff required 2 large thin diff shims and one wheel shim on the pinion bevel. That made it slopless, while still being free.

I used 4 diff seals and put 10K weight silicone in the rear diff. I didn't want gaskets, so I used silicone sealant to seal it up.

The maxx adapters are flawless, the truck looks great with the bigger tires. The sidewall barely clears the shock spring and the tires rubbed the body harcore and required major cutting.

I made a template for an aluminum front brace. If I can get the dimensions right I'll put it on here to print.

It's the Un-monster truck

[mandt131]

That Looks Well Sorted Do You Have A Part Number For The Adapters As I Have Some Savage Wheels Kickin Around That I Could Use :D

[Combatcm]

http://www.maximizerproducts.com/Dagger.html

They have 0 play where the kingpin goes and they "stick" on the kingpin so they dont fall out. Excellent quality.

With such big tires I reccomend a smaller clutch bell. I don't think you can gear so low that it's the proper ratio, but for high speed asphalt running it's ok, and dirt also, mine bogs in grass. I wouldn't even think the .15 engine could reliably use the tires though.

I ran a few runs around the year, it accelerated OK and tries to wheelie in the grass, you can see it try, but it never got them up off. In RWD (till I get the replacement gear) it would spin the tires on pavement. I wanted to run it so bad I forgot to glue the tires and the sidewall fell off a few times.

[mandt131]

http://www.maximizerproducts.com/Dagger.html

They have 0 play where the kingpin goes and they "stick" on the kingpin so they dont fall out. Excellent quality.

With such big tires I reccomend a smaller clutch bell. I don't think you can gear so low that it's the proper ratio, but for high speed asphalt running it's ok, and dirt also, mine bogs in grass. I wouldn't even think the .15 engine could reliably use the tires though.

I ran a few runs around the year, it accelerated OK and tries to wheelie in the grass, you can see it try, but it never got them up off. In RWD (till I get the replacement gear) it would spin the tires on pavement. I wanted to run it so bad I forgot to glue the tires and the sidewall fell off a few times.
already hopped up to an 18 will consider the options if it looks any good when done will post pics :)

[Ethereal_Dragon]

Hey guys, I am new to this thread... I have been through the HPI Nitro Rush Evo thread, as I purchased a used HPI Rush 2 years ago... The second day I had it, I was in a parking lot, and the throttle linkage popped off of the servo, and it got stuck at WOT.... ended up hitting a curb head on at full speed, and was totally dead... I WAS planning on rebuilding it, but it was used, and there was SO MUCH damage, that I would literally be replacing everything... found that the truck has incorrect parts on it, and it wasn't worth rebuilding...

So, my birthday was last week, and i was going to ask for money for an engine for the skeleton Rush that I have set up (only has chassis, engine plate, 1 HS-925MG servo, wheels & tires)... but I decieded against it, and got my parents to get me a MT2 RTR... They bought the truck, and I bought the extras. So far, I bought a chargable battery for the roto-start, battery charger, air filter oil, after run oil, fuel, fuel bottle, glow plug wrench and a rechargable glow ignitor. This truck will only be used for bashing, as I don't have the time or money to spend on racing it (plus not knowing where to go for that). During the break in period, I am not too worried about upgrading, as it will not be driven hard at all.

From what I gathered from the LHS, I should run 3 tanks through it with a static break in, (putting it up on blocks, wheels off of the ground), then an additional 2 tanks on the ground between mid throttle, and low throttle. This is my first time breaking in an RC truck, so I am not sure if this is totaly correct or not. While doing the static break in, should I just let it idle through the tanks, or set the throttle trim on the Radio so that it is at low throttle? Do I use after run oil after EVERY TANK, or just at the end of the day? The LHS DID tell me to make sure the piston is at the bottom of the cylinder at the end of the runs to prevent problems since it is a new engine.

As far as parts that I am going to look into for upgrades, I was thinking fuel filter (not sure if it is needed), hump pack batteries for the truck, and an electronic part, forgot the name, but it zero's out the servo's when the radio is out of range. Are there any weak parts on the MT2 that simple bashing may break?? Any complaints with the stock servos?

Sorry for all of the questions, but I am pretty much an RC NewB, and with just spending $450 on this, I DON'T want to me an idiot and screw it up. At first, I am just going to stick to fields, (no cubs to worry about)... eventually, I would like to try to launch it off of my brothers plastic skateboard / bike/ inline skating ramp... I could probably get 3 - 5 feet in height, 15 - 30 feet distance, depending on the speed it hits it at.

Sorry for the long ramble, but I have 1 more question.. I know a guy (haven't talked to him in a long time) that got on of those little wireless cameras off of ebay, it was like half the size of a 9V battery. I was wondering if anyone has tried to put a wireless camera on their truck. I think it would be really cool to do, but I wanted to see if anyone has a camera to recommed.

=-Zach

[Combatcm]

First off rotate the flywheel, between the pinch zone there will be a point off frictionless rotation. In the middle of this frictionless zone, mark the flywheel with a marker on the bottom. This is so the sleeve wont be contracting while cooling and cause the sleeve to wear more than it should. When cooling, keep the mark pointed down.

I use 3 in 1 oil for the engine usually after every bunch of runs at the end of running it for the day.

For breakin, heat the heatsink with a hair dryer for a few minutes till its really hot.

Put it on bricks or whatever keeps the wheels off. Start the engine at 3 turns out for the needle. let it idle for the tank while blipping the throttle. Do it again. Put it on the ground and drive in a small area very slow for the next tank. Start leaning it out the next run. Do 2 more runs not really going fast. Start leaning it out for the next run till the truck accelerates a little slow at the start, but will gain power in a few feet. My 18SS engine accelerated really good when lean and it needs to get to the richer side to run normally.

Breakin is not my specialy, I just do it cause I have to.

People say the tranny wears out prematurely, tranny problems are one thing I can't stand. Buy a traxxas teflon shim set and put it in the tranny to shim the inner bevel pinion to engage the diff bevel full, 1 or two should do it. It'll make you car last at least 15 runs longer, if not more.

Even if you break in an engine a little bad, it doesnt necessarily mean it will be unrealiable, it might mean it wont last as long.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

thank you for the quick reply!!!

I understand what you said about the mark on the flywheel, and that sound alot better for the car and the rotostart than what the LHS told me.. He just said crank the rotostart a few times till the piston is at the bottom of the cylinder.

For the hair dryer, when do I do that, BEFORE the first run, DURING the first run? My initial thought was heat it with the hair dryer, THEN start it for the first time.

As far as turning the needle on the carb, where should I start from? You said 3 turns out, but should I start from where the factory preset is, or tighten it all the way and do 3 turns?

EDIT: Another real quick question. What parts should I invest in (stock replacement parts) that commonly break in crashes? I would rather have some extra parts, than have to put the truck away cause I don't have the parts I need if something should break.

Thanks again

-Zach

[mandt131]

front uprights and front and rear hubs and possibly a rear diff set thats just wot i broke this week oh and a few spare bolts :D

[Ethereal_Dragon]

I am not sure what you mean by the front uprights.... A arms, front shock tower, front body mounts?? :confused:

[mandt131]

its the c shaped part that attaches to the front hub and the front lower arm and also the bottom of the front shock mounts to it hope it helps if not will post part numbers i will soon be fitting alloy parts to prevent some broken bits i hope

[ritchies rc10gt]

i finally got mine running and driving last week.non of the engines i have would fit it.the one i did have to fit was no good.i ended up putting a fantom fr15 in it,it was ok,would keep up with a LST but no bottom end punch to get the truck moving.i went and bought an OS 18 CVRX and a 2 speed for it yesterday.shouldnt have a problem getting it to move now :D .i also got the .21-.26 conversion for it.i have a wasp .26 and an OS .26 4 stroke for it for when i get bored.

[buzzsaw46]

The 18 will get your low end off the charts with the stock two speeds gearing. Stock 2 speed 1st gear is 11/52 right now I have 18/47 for my single speed and have alright low end 15t pinion was much better, 12/52 was way to low!

[MT2 owns you]

hmm...for my two speed i was thinking 18/47 for the second and 15/49 for the first. i got a cvrx :D . what do ya think?

[buzzsaw46]

MT2, wont work you have a 3t split on your cb and only 2t split on the spurs you need to go 15/49 18/46. I was thinking about picking up one of the threaded cb's for the RS4 3 so I can fine tune my split between 1st and 2nd but the smallest pinion is 17t and 17/49 might not be too bad, and 17/52 is always a an option as well. I do know that 18/47 is too high for first gear, it's awesome on road but off road it's just too much. Which leads me to think if you plan to run mostly on road with the 2speed maybe a 17/49 20/46 would be cool or if you want some real go fast 17/49 24/42

[MT2 owns you]

i thought i missed something...thanks for pointing that out. so...15/49 and 18/46 it is...but theres a couple things i needa know first. are they too high (?) ? as in will the engine be powerful enough for those gears? or should i go 14/49 17/46? or something like that. second (and last) are those gears available? thanks

[buzzsaw46]

For on road I think they are a bit low. For off road they sound about right, remember I was getting wheelies in the grass with 15/47 on mine! So maybe 14/47 17/44???? I dont know, depends how you are going to run it most of the time, I was planing on running mine only on road but have decided to continue running it in the dirt as well, so I need to get an MT2 slipper and some Savage spurs:rolleyes: :p

[buzzsaw46]

If your going to buy a clutch bell seriously consider the threaded RS4 3 clutch bell then you can experiment with your split between 1st and 2nd the pinions available for it are 17,18,19 21,22,23. So you could try any where from a 2t split up to a 6t split.

[ritchies rc10gt]

well that idea went out the window quick.my 2 speed was for the rs4 3 evo.i used the stock onroad gears.it was geared too high.still had no bottom end punch.i also bought the gears for the mt 2 for the 2 speed.well they wont work cus the pull start hits the dif case and wont go far enough to mesh the gears.im not at all impressd with the 18 either so tonight its getting the wasp .26 or the os 4 stroke.im done messing with it. :mad:

[buzzsaw46]

Did you get the slide or rotary carb O.S. 18? Is the 18 even broke in yet? I see you just bought it yesterday. You should be able to use the MT 2 gears if you use the spacer blocks that came with your engine. Also what are you using for a header and pipe that will make a big differance as well.

[MT2 owns you]

If your going to buy a clutch bell seriously consider the threaded RS4 3 clutch bell then you can experiment with your split between 1st and 2nd the pinions available for it are 17,18,19 21,22,23. So you could try any where from a 2t split up to a 6t split.
yep, took the words right out of my mind. i have the threaded clutchbell on my tower wishlist and its been there for a while, today i was thinking...i got a powerful engine...so im gonna see if i can gear low...ish...and then watch it take off when it shifts...im going to have at least a 4t-6t split definitly if my tires and engine can handle it. i think they can...but i gotta get my tuning down first so itll be awhile..halfway thru june id say...

[buzzsaw46]

I just found a neat little calc to help figure out shift points and ratios. Not much help with out also having the Dyno chart for the O.S. 18 found here http://www.ebmods.com/pages/dyno_charts/os18cvr1_stock.htm armed with this info one can then proceed to this calc http://www.tunamaxx.com/test/gear/gear4.html and get an idea of what speeds you want your shift point and how fast you think the engine will rev. I've played with it some and with my current gears (47/18) assuming I can get the engine up to 37k I should go about 57mph.

So lets try out the 15/18 49/46 setup knowing that the power drops off fast over 30k we want the shift to bring us back down around 22k I figure you need to shift at 29000rpm@35mph second would drop the engine back into the power band so it could pull through second with authority and should put top speed at about 55-60mph on road. Now the 17/52 23/46 setup, with this setup I think you want first to pull up to about 32-33k@43-44mph the shift would drop you back to 22k again pulling hard through second and if you could get even 33k out of the engine you would have a top speed of mid to upper 60's.

The only problem with trusting the dyno data is we dont know what pipe/header they where using or how much of an effect each of our setups has on the power curve! and we also dont know how quick it will be what good is going 60+mph if it take half a mile to get there. I guess my experiance with the ratios I have ran in both of my trucks with the O.S. 18 tells me the dyno and gear ratio calc are close to what I'm seeing in real life, And that the 17/52 first will be fine, the unknown is how well the engine can pull the 23/46 second, if I had to guess I would say it would pull at least 32-33k in second onroad.

Sorry for the long post but I really get off on tweaking like this:)

[MT2 owns you]

i dont mind the longs post most of the time. yours was easy to read, and helpful too. anyway...hmm...23/46 is pretty high...i dont have a whole lotta room...hmm...right now im thinking for first gear...something like 14/49 or 15/49...for secong...18/52 no..18/53...or 18/52...or 20/43 or 20/44....smaller pinion+bigger spur=better accel. and lower top speed right?...man...im gonna have to think on this...then again thats what experimenting is for...for my first setup ill try 15/49 and 18/52 and go from there i guess...

oh, that equation you showed me...is that similar to this one- pi * D * rpm * 5280/63360 = mph? i think thats the right one...my dad showed it to me and im pretty sure that was it.

edit-i got something with the gear ratios wrong and i know it...i THINK it should be more like 15/52 and 18/49...i think...

[ritchies rc10gt]

Did you get the slide or rotary carb O.S. 18? Is the 18 even broke in yet? I see you just bought it yesterday. You should be able to use the MT 2 gears if you use the spacer blocks that came with your engine. Also what are you using for a header and pipe that will make a big differance as well.


i got the rotary carb,side exhaust .18.im running the THS pipe on it.the engine is broken in.

[buzzsaw46]

i got the rotary carb,side exhaust .18.im running the THS pipe on it.the engine is broken in.


That wierd I have the slide carb with a HSNJ big tube header and an ofna 1/8scale buggy pipe and the thing is a rocket!! I'm also running a slide carb on my T-maxx with the CV-RX and I just bought an extended chassis to keep the front end down!! The Maxx .18 has a HSNJ G2 big tube header and a parris pipe.

Love my engines they are both brutes!!!

[Ethereal_Dragon]

Well, I got my MT2 engine broken in over the weekend. It was really fun... I think I am up to 7 or 8 tanks through it so far. I have been putting a drop of the after run oil in the carb after I am finished for the day, but I haven't put it into the block yet.

Next weekend I will be installing the Futuba fail safe unit I got, and also figure out how to charge some of my batteries... When I went to the LHS for batteries, I got 8 NiCad AA's for the radio, and a 5 cell hump pack for the truck. When I got the truck, I got a rechargable battery for the rotostart, and a battery charger. The charger was *supposed* to come with an adapter so that I could charge the 5 cell hump pack with it as well, but it didn't. Also, with the radio, mine has the plug in the back of it for an AC adapter, and I was going to get one of those as well... the LHS gave me an item that plugs into the radio AC port, and just has a Pos and Neg wire hanging off of it. The charger I have can charge at 1,