Help Starting the Savage

[mramos12208]

I just got a savage ss. For my surprise it came with a three shoe clutch and a gas tank with no primer. I tried to start the engine yesterday for break-in (stock engine) and in the first try it started but it reving up to high so I close the throt a little and it quit. Then I tryied to started for an hour and it didn't turn. I checked the plug and change it for a fresh one just in case, I also checked the air filter, the engine for floading, and the fuel lines but everything looks just fine. I took it to my LHS for help but the guy there couldn't turn it over either. He said everything seem ok and said that the engine is just hard to turn for the first couple of times. I got the roto start just to see if it could help but haven't been able to try it. I don't think it will help though.
Any sugestions??

Manuel

[tnxfan]

does the enigine turn over??

[mramos12208]

no, it tries to fire up but it does not. I can feel the smell of burned nitro but it does not fire up.

[tnxfan]

it could be too lean. try richening the high speed up by 1/4 to 1/2 turn

[Farwar]

The S-25 is a bugger to start when you are breaking it in. Try to heat up the motor with a hair dryer and than try starting it.

[wgbackyardbashr]

you may also want to try loosening up the glow plug like half a turn. This may help a bit.

[gck978]

try preheating the engine before you start it and put the piston at the bottom of the stroke i had thew same problem with my savage it was not getting any gas had bubble in the fuel line

[mramos12208]

Finally I decided to re-build the clutch and tighten the clutch nut. After that it ran like a champ. Thanks,

Manuel

[DT-10 basher]

"I just got a savage ss. For my surprise it came with a three shoe clutch and a gas tank with no primer."
was this just a mistake or does this mean that all the savage ss's will come with these new parts?

[kitty]

Congrats on getting it running, Manuel!

I agree with Farwar. Unless you live in a place like I do where the ambient temps are in the upper 90s, pre-heat the head when breaking in the engine. It helps a *lot*.

wgbackyardbashr, the glow plug only needs to be loosened a tiny bit for most people. The first time I loosened mine more than 1/4 turn, it splashed fuel everywhere.

DT-10, the SS kit now includes the 3-shoe clutch and the .25 style tank (no primer). Apparently HPI got hip to what's going on and switched to the better RTR version parts. The old .21 did okay with a 2-shoe clutch, but the S-25 has more power.

[ParadingLunatic]

Hmmm...that kind of makes me wonder if HPI will swap the old 2 shoe and old tank if you bought the SS originally with them. I doubt it though.

[DT-10 basher]

thats great im definately gettin the ss over the 25 rtr, i didnt want to shell out a three shoe clutch and a new fuel tank.

[aknitroguy]

I have the .25 RTR and it did the same thing, I thought I just needed to charge the starter battery, needless to say I ended up with my 18volt dewalt drill..It turns right over now. I am on my second tank and it is still very tight and has a tendacy to try to lean itself ans take off revving, I am kinda bummed, I own several nitro vehicles and this one has been a hard one to break in so far. If any savage veterans have any advice please let me know.
Thank you kindly

[mramos12208]

After all my research, everyone I have talked to says that the S-25 comes very tight. What I recommend is during break-in go through as many heat cycles as possible (get the engine warm and then let it cool down). Also use some after-run oil to lube the combustion chamber. I have no leaning issue so far. You can try checking for clogs in the fuel line or if you are using a fuel filter try using a high flow filter rather than a small one (all this assuming that your throtle linkage is set up correctly and the engine is set rich during break-in)

Manuel

[aknitroguy]

Thank you kindly Manuel :)

[kitty]

One thing that seems to be prevalent in a number of the latest batch of S-25 engines is wormy o-rings. I recommend pulling the HSN, LSN and idle screws and lube the o-rings. While they are out, and I know this is going to sound funny, but blow air through the carb intake while holding the engine upside down if any of your o-rings have worms (leftover from casting process). My LSN and idle needle o-rings were fine, but the lower o-ring on my HSN had wormies. I use AE green lube, though others have used after run oil or even Vaseline. Whatever is on hand, yaknow.

Doing that will sure save you from severe frustration if you know you're getting plenty of fuel to the engine, but it won't turn over. That happened to me, then I remembered a thread on another board where we discussed o-ring worms. Now she starts so much easier.