Team Losi XXX-T MF2

[tucsonbroker]

Can anyone point me to a comprehensive guide for rebuilding the GenII diff? Or maybe post here the tips/tricks for doing it better? I think the MF2 book is a little lacking in that department.

[Casper]

Here it goes.

Take the old diff apart on a CLEAN rag. Punch out the diff balls and rub them on the rag. A squirt of motor spray to get the old lube off in the rag would not hurt and then roll them around in a circle until they are clean. Spray out the diff gear with motor spray and a clean tooth brush until all the old grease is gone. Throw away your old diff rings and get the two part CR diff rings. (one brass and one silver ring per side) Unless you are using a known good hardened grooved thrust bearing, throw it away and get a good hardened grooved thrust bearing (like skipgear or traxxas or Axiom motors). Throw away the old diff nut and buy the two pack of new ones. Replace the outdrives if they are worn. If still in good shape spray out all the old dirt and grease from the outdrives. Wipe off any dirt or grease left on the diff screw.

Rebuild. Place the diff screw on the table pointing up. Put one cone washer facing up on the screw then one grooved thrust washer. Using AE black grease put a generous amount of diff grease on this grooved washer. Put the caged thrust bearing on the grooved washer. Put another generous amount of AE black grease on the top of the bearing. (small screw drivers work well for spreading the grease). Then put the other grooved washer on the screw and gently press down squeezing out the excess. Gently wipe the excess squeeze out off the thrust assy. Put another cone washer on the screw face down. Set to the side.

Put the diff balls back into the diff gear. (these should not need to be replaced but if the diff has been run loose for a long time of the diff was SUPER dirty you may want to replace those as well but this is not common) After the balls have been pressed into the gear put a dab of any clear grease (AE, Losi, Kimbrough ect) on each ball. Just a drop on each ball! Then flip the gear over and put a drop on the other side. A small syringe works well for this as does the little losi and AE applicator thing they sell grease in these days.

If you are using plastic outdrives you will need to glue the brass rings to the outdrives. Put a small dab of CA 180* apart on the outdrive and then press the copper ring on the outdrive. If you have a larger socket or something round to put even pressure on the diff ring to the outdrive while the CA cures this is a good idea to make sure the ring stays flat. Repeat with other side.

If you are using steel outdrives you will want to put a thin layer of clear grease on the back side of the copper washer and put it on the outdrive.

Put another thin layer of clear grease on the other side of the copper washers and then put the sliver washers on the copper washers. Put one bearing in the outdrive and one in the diff gear

Install the diff screw with the thrust bearing assy into the male outdrive. (if you are building a Losi diff with the outdrive nipple separate you will need to add the nipple to the diff screw prior to insertion of the screw into the outdrive.) Put a NEW diff nut into the the other outdrive.

Now assemble the two oudrives to the diff gear. Using a small allen wrench through the outdrive slots to hold the diff nut in place use a small screw driver to get the diff screw started into the diff nut. Tighten the diff slightly. Once you get the assemble together you will want to tighten the diff in small increments (1/4 turn at a time) and "work" the diff from side to side between tightenings. Tighten the diff until if feels good. Try not to over tighten the diff as to strip out the new diff nut!

Now install the diff in the car and adjust the diff and slipper again. If the slipper was at a known good setting then make sure the diff is tight enough that the slipper gives first. Now put a battery in and holding one tire give the car gas at about 1/4 throttle for 10-15 sec. Then do the other side. Do this 2-3 times and then check the diff/slipper to make sure the diff is still tighter then the slipper. Remember sometimes with the slipper gets hot and glazed it will stick and you may want to reset the slipper when you rebuild the diff or even replace the slipper pads and lightly sand the plates to get a good slipper again.

Now run the car. After the first couple runs you will want to check the diff slipper settings. If you can get through the first couple runs without slipping the diff you are good to go and your new diff should last months!!!!!!

One last thing. If you did not do it the first time or any time you use one of the new square wire springs you need to precompress the spring in a pair of pliers about a dozen times. These springs take an initial set that will make it hard to set the diff right when you build it for the first time with a new spring!!!!

Hope I did not miss anything and this is helpful.

[Casper]

I post a short story and no response? LOL

[aurell]

Thank you. I will use your guide when i get my new parts.
What do you think about cheramic balls?

[Casper]

They are significantly lighter then stock ones. Not sure if they make the diff better or not though. I had a set and I was not sure if they were any better or not. The balls are a bit lighter though.

[aurell]

Ok. I will try them. I think i get the diff gear next week. Its a long way from Usa to Sweden for my parts. I order form Losi parts house and Stormer, is there any other good online shops for parts to Losi?

[tucsonbroker]

I post a short story and no response? LOL

Sorry Casper, been occupied on another thread with some mental midget. Thanks for the great info.

[builthatch]

i didn't search the entire thread, but has anyone noticed that some of the fitments of pins in blocks, which then fit in arms makes for some sticky (tight) suspension actuation? For instance, on the rear arms, when you attached the rear hub into an arm, you know how it has a .050 white spacerin front and .070 black spacer in the back; that hub is a pretty tight fit in there. I made sure there was no flashing as i am SUPER **** about finishing the parts before i install them. the holes were clear and seemed within spec. the hinge pin, when nt installed with the hub and spacers, rotates freely in the arm. it doesnt look to me that the spacers are pressed up against the inner arm blocks too much, but it's hard to tell for sure since the surface on the hub that the spacers press against is not a straight, flat surface.

i just don't know.

is it something that will just loosen up a bit in time?

thanks.

EDIT: though there was no flashing, i found that with a little (i mean a LITTLE) massaging with a fine file on both spacers and the hub block, it helped greatly. It's still not "loose" but it's very free moving under the weight of the arm. Both sides are equally behaving. There might have been some sort of casting line on block or the spacer i might have missed? i dunno, but it's a tight fit out of the box!

[DesertLosi]

Hello,
New to the forum here. Me and a couple of friends have gotten bored out here in the vast desert of the middle east and decided to build a RC track. So I Have a MF2 with a spectrum DX3, mamba max ESC w/5700 (for fun) and a Trinity Speed gems Extreme double modified 17T for racing with everyone (we all got these to keep it even), a couple 2s liPo's with a Hyperion E07Si charger. I think that should cover everything to start.
I was wondering if anyone could recommend a list of parts to stock up on and if there was anything I should upgrade to a more durable part? And does anyone have some pinion recommendations for the 2 motors. Everything is stock from the kit right now.

My friend has already broken 2 A arms and a pivot. Oh and everyone else got T4's except me.

Thanks

[Casper]

Tight is good. It will loosen up with use in no time. AS long as the arms fall under there own weight you should be good to go.

[TunaCan Charlie]

on a good day...

[losi_trinity]

wow..this is a great forum u guys got goin here...i can help with questions too :)

[got2bqik]

My new to me MF2 gets its first run tomorrow. I have the m-tronics sport esc and fieago 9t motor.Runnin road rage II's and 22/87 gearing. Going to run my gp3300 6 cell pack 1st then my new 2-s 4000hv pack. Had the motor and esc in a rusty and on 8 cells nimh it was really fast so hopefully in this lighter mf2 it'll be faster and better handling. I'm sure I'll have some tuning questions latter on.
Tim

[teamlosiisback]

I am on my second and I love the truck, the way it flies, handles, and drives... Would not change

[teamlosiisback]

DesertLosi: You are going to want to have some spare spur gears, a arms, ball cups and tie rods, maybe some screws for the chassis(they seem to come lose sometimes and fall out), motor cleaner! definately

[RON F]

I'm currently racing a MF2 and I'm having trouble with the antenna tube. Whenever
someone hits me and the truck flips onto its roof, the antenna tube breaks.
Are there any "indestructible" tube available ? Any ideas on how to prevent this?
spectrum is not an option.

[Casper]

Are you running a colored tube? IF so get a black one. The colored ones are much more brittle then the black ones. Another thing to do is to move the antenna mount. This is a simple mod using an AE antenna mount and drilling a hole in the chassis. Here is a top down picutre of my truck with this mod and a picture showing how the tube comes throught the wind shield now. This keeps the antenna from coming through the roof which is why it wants to break off. Coming through the windshield the antenna will more naturally bend.

http://home.socal.rr.com/casper04/images/truck_no_body_top.jpg

http://home.socal.rr.com/casper04/images/truck_body_on_iso.jpg

[RON F]

That AE antenna kit ,is it this one LX2781?

[RON F]

I put the Associated universal antenna mount on with a black tube and it
works great.
Thanks Casper.

[Casper]

Glad it works.

[got2bqik]

Hey guys have any of you tried putting 2 touring car springs on 1 truck shock. Are the tc springs same diameter as truck/buggy springs. I can make a spacer to go between them. Thinkin this would be an easy way to have adjustable dual rate springs.Sure somebody has tried this.
Tim

[tfrahm]

Casper - The front tires on your truck are "interesting"... They don't look like any LOSI, ProLine, GRP, or Panther..?

What are they...?

[Casper]

TRC Sonic's in "A" compound (soft) They were imported by trinity from italy.

You can get them through trinity direct. I get mine through Ulitmate although I had to special order them most of the time. They work great as front tires. They work decent as rear tires.

http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=TRNTF05A/158.0.705.15612.0.0.0

[tfrahm]

Thanks -- placed a special order for them through the LHS.. :wave:

[juntom10]

are there any other bodies for mf2?

[got2bqik]

Try these http://www.vansinvent.com
Tim

[juntom10]

oh. thanks..

Any body suggest about gear ratio with mamba max system?

[got2bqik]

Which motor do you have?
Tim

[juntom10]

Which motor do you have?
Tim
mamba max 5700kv :)

[Casper]

All losi bodies for the XXX-T series will fit the MF2. The Fury, FXT, MF2 and origianal XXX-T bodies come to mind. Jconcepts makes a nice body for this truck as well.

[got2bqik]

With the short street tires 20/86 works in flat parking lot driving. For the taller dirt tires drop down to 19 or 18 on the pinion. Should be close try them and check motor, esc, and battery temps, and adjust from there.
Tim
P.S. I really like the losi Fury body, Fits the truck like a glove and styling looks good too.

[juntom10]

please post your mf2 pics please!!

i want to see....

[littlej72]

What are some good online retailers for a new xxx-t? I havn't found a good losi dealer?

[Casper]

www.horizonhobby.com
www.losipartshouse.com
www.stormerhobbies.com

[BoysToys]

oh. thanks..

Any body suggest about gear ratio with mamba max system?

Juntom- I am currently running a Mamba Max 5700 with a 3s 11.1v lipo. I have it geared 14/86 and my motor temps are usually in the 170 range. With my Ib4200 pack I run 15 or 16/86. Since using the Mamba all I have done is strip one idler gear. My truck started out as a RTR sport and I have replaced parts as they broke. I have never painted a body so I bought the Black/Yellow Losi Fury body. Here are some pics of the beast.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BBates/LosiBrushlessBody001small.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BBates/3S2PLipoXXX-T013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BBates/3S2PLipoXXX-T010.jpg

[juntom10]

looks great!!!!

you are using masher 2000 which is bigger than normal truck tire...

so pinion gear is about 16....

i bought novak brushless and..

mf2 is now shipping..

so..maybe i think 18t or 20t pinion for my mf2 with novak 4.5R (stock tires) would be good.(i have 16 18 20 22 24 26 pinions.)

[juntom10]

Enroute, February 17, 2007, 4:20 pm, CHICAGO, IL 60666

umm

maybe i can get next week....

[BoysToys]

I was running a Novak GTB/Velociti 5.5r before I switched to the Mamba. I was running 15/86 with the Masher 2k tires and thermaled it using my 6 cell IB4200 pack. The Mashers are 4.9 inches tall so you might get away with 16/86 or 17/86. I would start low and watch/monitor your temps until you get it dialed in. If you are planning on racing the 4.5 will be a handful. My Mamba is difficult to control running 6 cells in the dirt. It is just crazy with the 3s lipo on the street. Good Luck and Have fun!

[juntom10]

International Dispatch, February 17, 2007, 4:22 pm, Chicago (O'Hare) AMC

mf2 left the us!!! and..heading towards toronto pearson airport yayayayayay!!

[BoysToys]

International Dispatch, February 17, 2007, 4:22 pm, Chicago (O'Hare) AMC

mf2 left the us!!! and..heading towards toronto pearson airport yayayayayay!!
Have Fun! I know I am with mine. I just got done driving it and I am still shaking. I bought a GPS off Ebay and it arrived last night. I strapped it down today experimented for a couple of minutes with some gearing and settings and this is the result. 57.3mph This was using 19/86 gearing. I think that there is still more left in it but I ran out of room on my street. I also measured my normal bashing gearing 14/86 with the 3s lipo and got a top speed reading of 48mph. I am going to go out and measure speeds on my IB4200 pack later today or tomorrow. This thing is just SILLY fast.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BBates/SpeedRuns004smallcircle.jpg

[juntom10]

Holy!! that's really fast!!!

Let me know the speed with 6cell ni mh!!

so cool.

[juntom10]

2007/02/19 11:37 Item was released from Customs and is now with Canada Post for sortation
2007/02/19 11:21 International shipment has arrived in Canada
2007/02/17 16:31 International shipment has left the origin country and is en route to Canada

maybe i can get tomorrow or on wednesday!!

I can not wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[juntom10]

Have Fun! I know I am with mine. I just got done driving it and I am still shaking. I bought a GPS off Ebay and it arrived last night. I strapped it down today experimented for a couple of minutes with some gearing and settings and this is the result. 57.3mph This was using 19/86 gearing. I think that there is still more left in it but I ran out of room on my street. I also measured my normal bashing gearing 14/86 with the 3s lipo and got a top speed reading of 48mph. I am going to go out and measure speeds on my IB4200 pack later today or tomorrow. This thing is just SILLY fast.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BBates/SpeedRuns004smallcircle.jpg

I want to tell you one tips for faster speed..

I saw the vid that who tested the rustler with masher 2000 tires(front and rear).

and he tried smaller diameter tire on the front (which means less resistance)(rear is masher 2000)

and car was about 3~4mph faster

[littlej72]

anyone selling an xxx-t with a brushless setup, possibly ready to run? trying to find a new basher for the winter.

[juntom10]

enjoy~~
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/juntom10/DSCF0402.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/juntom10/DSCF0403.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/juntom10/DSCF0404.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/juntom10/DSCF0405.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/juntom10/DSCF0406.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/juntom10/DSCF0407.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/juntom10/DSCF0408.jpg

[BoysToys]

How about a couple of pics with the body off. I want to see the "goods under the hood!"

[juntom10]

How about a couple of pics with the body off. I want to see the "goods under the hood!"
maybe tomorrow :)

[jespider]

I am super stoked i just orderd MF2, i am going from a Rustler to this beauty. I plan on racing it and my questions are: what radio should i get, i dont want any issues at the track as far as interferance with other drivers and i dont want to spend $300.

2. what servo?
3.motor and esc? i heard the mamba max 7700 is insane and its only $179 for the pkg.

any other advise for the track.

[jespider]

I am super stoked i just orderd MF2, i am going from a Rustler to this beauty. I plan on racing it and my questions are: what radio should i get, i dont want any issues at the track as far as interferance with other drivers and i dont want to spend $300.

2. what servo?
3.motor and esc? i heard the mamba max 7700 is insane and its only $179 for the pkg.

any other advise for the track.

[juntom10]

I am super stoked i just orderd MF2, i am going from a Rustler to this beauty. I plan on racing it and my questions are: what radio should i get, i dont want any issues at the track as far as interferance with other drivers and i dont want to spend $300.

2. what servo?
3.motor and esc? i heard the mamba max 7700 is insane and its only $179 for the pkg.

any other advise for the track.
1. Many people recommand spectrum system.(2ch one is about 170bucks..and 3ch one is 250bucks(both include transmeter, receiver, stock servo)
2. i using Hitec 965mg servo. it is really good. 0.10sec speed with about 8kg torque
3. depends on the person....................(mine is novak gtb w/ velocity 4.5R)

[jespider]

Great thank you for the advise! All check around for that radio and best deal.

[juntom10]

ohhh..i got the info..that

novak velocity 3.5R motor's KV is the highest(10400kv)

and 4.5R is second(9000KV)

i saw at the xrc magazine.

and my gearing with 4.5R motor is 16/86

[juntom10]

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/juntom10/DSCF0417.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/juntom10/DSCF0418.jpg

[jespider]

What a beauty! thx

[juntom10]

What a beauty! thx
thanks :)

When you get your mf2 and other stuffs, show us the pics!

:D

[jespider]

for sure!!

[juntom10]

i got some vids...but quality is really bad..

(youcube made is worse..)

anyway..

~)~

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hBoV9W0CIw

[juntom10]

i will get a kimbrough 15t pinion gear...

because i heard that kimbrough pinion gear is super smooth

[juntom10]

I can not find the wheels for xxx t (axle pin is longer than t4 or b4..so i can't use the proline one...) from tower hobbies..

any suggestions?

[Casper]

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA7154

You can get them from Horizon. Tower does not carry Losi products.

With the Cactus this weekend stock is low lots of places.

[dhauch]

hey guys,
have any of you heard if there's a newer version of the MF2 coming out anytime soon ?

thx,
dave hauch

[juntom10]

Are there any spares that i have to have??

because i will order some spare parts for mf2, but noting is broken yet...

so i wanna know the spare parts that i must have :)

[ChrisWolfson]

dhauch - there is a new truck in the works. Not sure of a release date. Probably sometime in the summer.

[ChrisWolfson]

juntom - the XXXT is a pretty sturdy truck. Most of the breakage I've seen comes from the rear pivot, but that's with the original XXXT pivot and not the MF2 rear pivot support assembly. You may want to have some spare arms on hand and some steering parts. That's really about it.

[juntom10]

juntom - the XXXT is a pretty sturdy truck. Most of the breakage I've seen comes from the rear pivot, but that's with the original XXXT pivot and not the MF2 rear pivot support assembly. You may want to have some spare arms on hand and some steering parts. That's really about it.
ohh..

My mf2's pivot ball was broken 2 times...

umm. i see..

spare arms...

and...

what is the steering parts mean??

turnbuckle??

[Casper]

I think he means spindles and caster blocks. I would have a couple spare shock cartridges in case you blow a shock and diff rings in case you need to do an emergancy diff rebuild.

[got2bqik]

The rear pivot or "T" plate and transmission housings have been my main parts breakage.
Tim

[juntom10]

anybody tried this one???

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMUF9&P=7

cause i want to use 2.2 wheel that have 12mm hex adapter..(like stampede wheel etc)

[juntom10]

I just ordered moab tires for xxxt..

and need to buy losi wheels...

[juntom10]

anyone can post pics with xxx t + moab tires?

[juntom10]

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/juntom10/IMG_5579.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/juntom10/IMG_5581.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/juntom10/IMG_5582.jpg

[BoysToys]

Juntom- Those Moabs look very cool. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BBates/Thread%20Animation/coolgleamA.gifI might have to try those out next. They look to be as large as the Masher 2ks that I run. The parts I normally break are idler gears and diff gears. This is due to running a 3s lipo and a Mamba Max 5700. I also tend to break ball studs pretty often. I have also broken 1 front a-arm and one stock RTR chassis. Not too bad for 5 months worth of hard bashing. Here is a pic of my XXX-T showing how large the Masher 2ks look on it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BBates/LosiBrushlessBody003small.jpg

[juntom10]

looks nice :D

moab is so nice..i really love it..

and..

i have broken rear ballstud 2 times....

that's the only thing that i break..

good thing about 2wd stadium truck or buggy is..

there is not may hop ups like monster trucks!

so i can save money....:D:D

[Thomas P]

and my gearing with 4.5R motor is 16/86

:eek: are you in to dragracingwith that truck? :D can that be handle on a track?..im running between Mamba5700-7700 and 5.5r and that a much i can use, then it will be just waist of power. my gearing now 7700 14/90 :) 6 cells

[juntom10]

:eek: are you in to dragracingwith that truck? :D can that be handle on a track?..im running between Mamba5700-7700 and 5.5r and that a much i can use, then it will be just waist of power. my gearing now 7700 14/90 :) 6 cells
haha

not that fast...

i need to re gearing(need to buy 14t pinion)

[juntom10]

Thomas P // please post some pics of your mf2!! i wanna see that!

[juntom10]

oh my god..

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=2232468#post2232468

[Relix]

I love my XXX-T, I've had it for about a month now and other then ruining a few trust bearing sets the only real issuse I am having with it is breaking the leads coming off the batteries.. The battery tray is alittle tight for my 6 cell stick batteries and the positive and negitive leads coming out at one end are getting frayed(SP)

[Casper]

If you run the battery in the middle (ie one foam pad front and one back) you should be able to cut a small cutout in the foam block to help protect your wires. Just a thought.

[Relix]

If you run the battery in the middle (ie one foam pad front and one back) you should be able to cut a small cutout in the foam block to help protect your wires. Just a thought.LoL I can't beleive I didn't think of that....

[Relix]

Hey Casper, I did what you suggested and it works great..

[juntom10]

i ordered diff gear and diff washer.....(2 of each..)

[GSMnow]

I just got my new MF2 assembled and drove it on my road dawg tires for a little shake down test.
WOW!!!! having this chassis is like cheating. My 20 year old modded JRX-2 turned into a truck just does not work anything like this. On my usual asphault cul du sac test course, I took it a little easy at first to feel out the balance on pavement. I built it to the book, but the camber and toe don't look quite right, but I just wanted to drive it. With my Mamba Max 5700 right out of the old car with no changes, even the gearing is almost dead on, it accelerated hard with little wheels spin, and no wheelie. The slipper was a tick too loose as I heard it spin a few times, but when I got into it, the harder I drove it, the better it took a set. The C.G. is so much lower than my old truck, I was entering the turns at a spped that would have had my old chassis doing a barrel roll into the curb. On lift throttle with 30% drag brakes, it tightens it's line a little, but is easy to keep on line with just a small correction. With more than 90 degrees of turn left, I roll the throttle on and increase steering to hold the line, and before the exit of the curve, I am back to full throttle ripping across the center of my figure "8". Even a 4 wheel drift through the wheel ruts in the asphault would not upset the balance. You can watch the suspension work as the chassis floats over the bumps and keeps the tires planted. I have driven alot of RC vehicles, but I have never seen anything hold the surface like this. I can't wait to hit the dirt and wring it out.

Gary M.

[RON F]

I can't wait to hit the dirt and wring it out.

Gary M.
You'll be just as impressed. :D

[juntom10]

diff gear is still not arrived.....errrg

[Relix]

I hate waiting for parts!

[GSMnow]

I finally got to try the MF2 on some dirt. I had some time after work so I stopped into SVM Speedway in Sun Valley. I have not raced there yet, but this is my third time going to practice. Hot Rod is closed Mondays :-( They changed the layout at Sun Valley, WOW!! that track is not meant for 1/10 vehicles. The trtack was not groomed at all and was very dusty and it was cool and windy today making it even worse. I was the only guy running the dirt track, but that meant no marshals. Normally not a big deal, BUT... The track is HUGE and the new table tops are so big you can't see the course behind them. Even from the driver's stand there are a few small blind spots, but I figured that out okay. The middle table top is the killer. It has steeper than 45 degree ramps on each side, is 4 feet high, but only 3 feet long on top. First time over, I totally cleared the top, and came CRASHING down the far side. You must brake and roll down the back side, or you will crash. The is a 90 degree turn at the bottom, and if you take any air off the top you will be way out of position, and probably nose into the dirt. The MF2 is a tought truck though, I only lost two body clips from the hit.

It is hard to judge the handling with how dusty it was, but it sure has more forward bite than my old truck. I still could not give full throttle from a stop, but I was able to roll it on quite fast and was up to 35 mph in just 70 to 100 feet, and cruising the reast of the 250 foot straight. The banked 90- degree turn at he end was an adventure in the dust. I nailed it about 5 times, out of 30 tries. Twice I ended up caught in the orange catch fance over the turn, and it was not from going too fast, it was getting just a tick too high in the dust and sliding away with no steering. I found one setting I think I will have to change. I think it is riding a little too low. I have it set with the dogbones just below level. Well, how far is "just below" Mine are about 1/8 to 1/4 inch lower at the chassis than at the wheels. I think it is just too low. There is a triple jump on the short straight, and if I hit it right, I was able to clear all three with some room to spare, but again, it was 5 out of 20 tries. If I was out of place, it would catch the rear motor guard on the third hill and punt it into a horrific cartwheel at 30+ mph. About 10 feet later is a 90 left hand turn, if it is cartwheeling, you can't make it, and just past the track is a CONCRETE road barrier. I whacked it a couple time, usually with the roof of my old beat up body, but it did cath a wheel a couple times. Again, NO DAMAGE.

The jump series on the front was a blast. A fair size double that I can make no problem as long as I don't spin the tires too much out of the previous turn. Then a 12 foot run up to the combination from hell. A 2 foot high ramp to clear a 4 foot wide gorge onto a table top as high as the top of the ramp. It takes about 20 mph for a safe landing. Come up short and you slam into the gorge wall. The small flat landing area leads to another 2 foot ramp onto another plateau for 5 or 6 feet, then a series of 3 drop offs back down to grade level. I nailed this section about 80%. I can't describe the whole track because it is HUGE. 1/8 buggys run 35 second laps. With no marshals I had to drive from the course, and then could not see the course beyond the huge hills and valleys. I swear there is a spot I could stand where I could not see over one of the hills. I am 6 foot tall.

So, in conclusion, the MF2 is a very good handling truck even in dust. I was on Directional fronts and T-2000 rears. The same tires I used on my old truck that worked well(maybe just okay) in dust. The new king pins and 8 ribs are mounted up and ready if I need them at Hot Rod. I am set to race the Tuesday night series race tomorrow. I hope to have a better report.

The Mamba Max 5700 worked flawlessly. I had more torque than I could use anywhere except beyond halfway down the long straight. I could easilly gear it up for SV, but I think I am fine for Hot Rod. I was stopped a fair amount of time, but I still got 20 minutes on a pack, take out the time to fetch the car, and I bet I was on power for at least 10 minutes.

[juntom10]

yes.

it takes longer to me, cause i live in canada.

[GSMnow]

I posted my first truly deserved win with the MF2 this week. The turnout was low again, so they lumped all 1/0 (or smaller) vehicles into one heat, we had a total of 7 on track, 3 electrics, 3 nitro 1/10, and a Jammin .5 CR 1/14 4x4 mini truggy. I was the fasted thing with power going to just the rear tires, and that Jammin got me by less than 1/2 of a lap in 7 minutes. Mamba Max power was at least a match for the nitros down the straight and I had better control in the tight sections. Even with shot front tires giving my quite a push in the fast corners, I was able to run some of the fastest lap times. With more front grip, I might even catch that .5 CR, but I need to be careful. The push made it easier to drive but I had to slow too much from a few turns. I have to find that balance where I can still drive it, but turn faster. I stayed with the worn tires as a safe bet, and it worked out in the main. My lap times were a bit off, but with basically no crashes, it made up for it. 17 laps in 7 minutes and only marshalled twice. Running clean is far better than going fast and needing a marshal.

[GSMnow]

Is anyone on here having trouble with the rear wheels wobbling? I now have 3 sets of XXX-T wheels that look like the wheels in National Lampoon's Vacation after he jumps the family truckster. Upon close inspection, it is definately the hub area of the wheel that deforms and takes a set off center. I have tried to flex them back but with no luck at all. I even marked the high spot, and it always goes back to the same place. I am tempted to p[ut them in hot water, bend it back, and cool it while true and see if that works, but with the air vent holes and the foam in the tires, I hate to think how much water they could soak up, never to get out again. I just bought a set of XTM Accelerater wheels to try out. They look like dead on Copies of the Losi wheels, but the webbing is certainly thicker. I am sure they are heavier, but at this point, I want true wheels for a full race.

[MikeBusch2]

Never had a wobble wheel problem. I've been using (and recycling) a set of yellow and a set of red losi wheels without problems.

[Casper]

They will bend on occation. Not sure what to do about it. It is usally a result of a hard hit. I have cracked wheels in the past. All in all Losi wheels are pretty good though.

[GSMnow]

My worst wobble is from being hit in the wheel by a 1/8 buggy, it is toast. Most of the others were just a bad landing off of a jump. It hits on the side or does a cartwheel and the wheels are no longer straight. My older Losi wheels have taken many harder hits without an issue. It seems to be the hub area of the XXX-T wheel is just easier to bend out of round.

[aurell]

My worst wobble is from being hit in the wheel by a 1/8 buggy, it is toast. Most of the others were just a bad landing off of a jump. It hits on the side or does a cartwheel and the wheels are no longer straight. My older Losi wheels have taken many harder hits without an issue. It seems to be the hub area of the XXX-T wheel is just easier to bend out of round.
I got your problem to. I think i have ten pairs of losi wheels to my MF2.
All off them wobble. Som off them more som less but all off them wobble.
I have some Evader wheels, they are stronger but they make the car wider.
The offset is different. Excuse my bad english. :-)

[Casper]

aurell-- You english is way better then our swedish and for that matter is it is better then a lot of our english! LOL

The losi wheels are not super true. That is a fact. They are close enough for offroad though. Just make sure you rotate the wheels when adjusting camber to make sure you get a good "average" camber setting!

[aurell]

I love my car and i dont think the wobble is a big problem.
You also have to check your bearings i the rear wheelhubs sometimes.

[aurell]

Thomas P // please post some pics of your mf2!! i wanna see that!


Im not Thomas p but here is some pics of his car:
http://rsb.se/arena/showpost.php?p=89472&postcount=86
And here is mine.
http://rsb.se/arena/showpost.php?p=110207&postcount=109
http://rsb.se/arena/showpost.php?p=116024&postcount=113

[GSMnow]

The XTM accelerator wheels held true better, but I still got a little wobble in one when I cartwheeled the car from 5 feet in the air. OOPS!! I qualified 4th out of 7 that actually ran, 8 entered. I was up to second after 4 laps and we had a good dice swapping the lead 5 times in the closing laps with the MF2 taking my first real on course win. Beat out 4 Jammin .5 CR nitro mini truggys. My best dice was with a B4 associated buggy. He had me covered in the infield, but I made it up on the fast sections. The top 3 all turned 17 laps in 7 minutes. I missed the 18th by less than 10 seconds.

I ran the Pro Line Hole Shot rears and they certainly hooked up better then either the Losi T2000 or King Pins. I was using more power in the infield than ever before since the tail would stay behind it and not spin out. It showed in my battery numbers as well. Last week I had 1900 mah left after a 5 min qual, this week only 1550 left, so I used 350 mah more, and turned 1 more lap in qualifying than I did last week 13 vs 12 in 5 minutes. My fastest lap in a race is now down to 23.5 but I only averaged in the 25's thanks to a few bad jumps. I need to figure out why it does not always fly right. I feel I am hitting the ramp about the same, but 1 in 5 jumps the nose goes way up, and it slams on the motor guard. And then at least once in the race, it noses down and a full throttle punch can't pull it up and the bumper catches and I am on the roof. The other 80% of the time though, it flies nice and lands great, and small throttle inputs adjust it perfectly. I think it is a suspension bottoming issue, so I did raise it 1 turn in front, 2 turns in back for the main, and it was better. I will post another reply with setup questions.

[GSMnow]

So.....
My local track has 6 double jumps, and a HUGE 15 foot long table top that is over 3 feet high. We also have 5 180 degree turns that are around 5 foot radius, so we need to corner as well. Currently my setup is pretty much Matt Frances stock right out of the manual except I went up to 35 wt oil in the back and changed the front springs to buggy front silvers 3.2 instead of the stock red 2.6 rate. My ride height is at 3/4 inch under the battery well. This puts the front arms almost level and the rear dog bone below level. Low speed turns are great, it pushes a little on high speed turns. I can plant it perfectly on all of the doubles, the table top is the killer. If I nail it right, it will fly for about 12 feet and land right on the trailing slope down. There is a 45 kink before it, and if you come in too hot and have to lift, I get a little crossed up and have to set in on the top of the table top and drive down, not a big deal.

I am running the MF2 body, but with no spoiler extension. I tried it before and one bad landing and it is toast anyways. And my bigger problem is going nose high, so I don't think it will help.

I guess my big questions are,
1] What springs and oils (pistons) are people using to take big jumps? How does it corner on groomed dirt with that setup? I don't want to ride too much higher as I did high side it in a sweeper at the start of qualifying.
2] Where are you guys on camber and toe? I have a bit of negative up front, probably 2mm at the rim now and the rear is basically zero +/- rim wobble. I have a very small toe in up front.
3] How much effect does moving the battery give you? I hate making a big change in a race, so I left it in the middle. I would like to try forward now that I have rear tires that hook up.

[Casper]

For a limited time I still have my standard setup on my web site.

http://home.socal.rr.com/casper04

This setup takes big jumps well and handles consistantly. It may not be perfect for you driving style but it will be a lot better starting point. This is based off Drakes standard setup which is a great starting point as well. The kit setup is kind of weird, although they did revise it a while ago. The original kit setup had 20 wt oil all round?

[GSMnow]

Thanks Casper, I just added your setups page to my favorites. I am seeing a pattern. Most people seem to run much stiffer shock dampening in back, and then stiffer springs in front. I did move in that direction from the MF setup, but just 35 wt in back and buggy silver springs up front. I was up to 40/45 oil in my old chassis, but I think it was heavier and had more angle to the shocks so they were less effective.

[GSMnow]

I missed my Tues. night series race this week, but I did get some time on the truck. The stiffer front springs are working well, but I am still having some jump trouble. I think I am bottoming out the rear end going up the table top. 1 out of 5 launches leaves the nose down hard, and 1 in 10 has it go nose way high (front bottoming??). I raised ride height a tick and it seemed better. I think I may have to go a little stiffer still with how rutted our track is getting. It is still a month before they change the layout.

[GSMnow]

Finally got out on the track again. It has been over 2 weeks sinc eI have even driven it, so I wanted a little track time before trying to race again. It was a productive day, BUT... I did a bit of damage.

First out I ran my weak battery and was able to run 12 laps in 6 minutes and only got hung up once where I had to go get it. Not bad. Then I put in one of my really good IB4200 packs with the Mamba Max 5700 and it flies. It took a few laps to get the hange of having serious power again. When I thought I had it, I went fo rthe huge table top at near full throttle, OOPS!! 5 feet in the air and it came down on just the right rear tire. It seemed okay, and I drove a few more laps, but I noticed it getting very wobbly under power. I blamed it on the dusty track at first, but it was much worse than before, and I could not use full acceleration without it turning. A closer look and, OH! the front hing pin brace for the rear arms now has an oval instead of a hole. The toe on the right rear is moving 3 degrees. At the tires, you can move it forward and back 1/2 inch. $3.50 at the hobby shop and ten minutes in the pits and it is back on the track. MUCH BETTER. Ran 12 minutes on a pack and only needed to marshal it twice, great!! 2 guys showed up with REVOs, time for some fun. I noticed my newish Pro Line Hole Shots are getting a bit worn, so I put my Losi T-2000's on. I took off after the REVOs and I laped thjem both twice until I came off a double made the turn and pulled a little too much trigger, oops, I spun 170 degrees. I stopped, cranked it to the left, and here comes the lead REVO. BANG!!! right into my left front rim. It snapped the graphite suspension arm cracking through all 3 main ribs. No other damage, so it was back up to the hobby shop. DAMN, out of stock on MF2, or any XXX-T suspension arms, DAMN again.. They should be in Friday. I hope to race Sat. The way the arm broke, I was able to jam it back together and it held tight in alignment, so I filled the cracks with a good CA glue and clamped it in a vise. I tried to flex it with my hands, and as hard as I can wail on it, it does not move. If new arms don't come in, it may be raceable as long as I don't go head on with a REVO.

[GSMnow]

Wow, this thread has been really slow. No posts besides me in 20 days!
I picked up my new pair of MF2 front suspension arms. The glued one is still holding, but I will put on the new one before the Hot Rod Shootout. I also picked up a fresh pair of rear tires and rims for the Shootout. I need to save them. I figured out that I got less than 1 hour of total driving time on the first set of Pro Line Hole Shots. And that was the medium M2 compound, not the soft M3 most guys are using. I know some could be my driving as most of the wear is the Mamba Max torque spinning them a bit too much out of the corners. It is a fine line between being passed and tire spin. And just a hair more and you spin out when the tires loose all traction.

[Tim'sLosi]

Wow, I wonder how the diffs are holding up in the brushless xxx-t rtr. Mine aren't doing well so far. I only get 3-4 runs per diff gear. I was surprised that Losi used the same parts in their brushless model.

I cannot find an alloy diff gear for the XXXT.

[GSMnow]

I have been racing my MF2 with the Mamba Max 5700 for 5 months now and my diff is all original. The MF2 actually uses a smaller diff than the regular XXX-T gearbox, but I am pretty sure it uses the same rings and balls which are the true heart of the diff. The other major part is the thrust bearing and the spring setup. The MF2 (Gen II) diff setup does use a better thrust bearing and a stiff coil spring arrangement. I setup the diff by the instructions and it is very free from side to side, but never slips at all. After months of abuse it is still smooth as silk. I also make sure that the slipper clutch will slip before the diff, and I check it each race day. If the diff slips, I tighten it and reset the slipper again. The test in the book is to hold the left rear tire and the spur gear and then turn the right rear tire. I do another test. I place a body clip in the mesh between the pinion and spur gear. I then turn the tires backwards. I like the slipper to slip without lifting the front tires off the ground. I eve pick it up and check it. It usually slips with the nose of the truck hanging about 20 degrees below level. I do this in full race trim, battery, body etc.

As long as the diff does not slip, it does not make any heat to melt the gear.

[savagekid94]

the mf2 is a fantastic truck amazing basher and racer it is indestructable

[GSMnow]

Well, not quite indestructable. I found 2 weak spots and 2 vulnerabilities.

Weak spot #1 the gear box housing. That grey plastic is just too brittle. I have cracked 3 gear boxes now. That is just not acceptable to me. I now have a thick lexan brace between the gearbox and the rear shock tower. So far so good, but it hase only been on for 2 races.

Weak spot #2, the front end pin holder for the rear suspension inner pivot pins. In totally stock trim, the pins are only held in by the motor plate on the right and the rear motor gaurd on the left. This is not good enough. The pins shift rear ward and as such are only about 1/2 way into the front end pin holder at the back of the battery tray. One good hit pon the rear tire and the pin rips through the remaining half of the holder. I have broken 3 of these as well. I hope to get a metal one soon. I also added a pair of collars with set screws (DuBro 1/8 inch wheel collars) between the two legs of the rear A-arm. Push the pins as far forward as they can go, then push the collars against the rear inside edge of the A-Arm and lock it down. Now the pins stay fully inserted into the front pin support and I have not broken one since, but again it has been just 2 races with this mod, but it took a HUGE cartwheel and didn't fail.

Vulnerability, the graphite is too brittle. As tough as it is, it has no give until it just plain fails. Losiu changed to the EA3 material for a reason, and I think this is it. I broke 2 battery hold down straps. Replaced it with the standard plastic one for now, seems much tougher, it flexes without breaking. I broke one front A-arm, but it was due to a head on with a Revo, n big surprize. But then I was in a broad slide and clipped a rock, and it cracked the main tub. OUCH!, $50 to replace. The crack is only 1.5 inches and all outside of the battery side rails so I am still running it for now. I will double over the crack with a carbon fibre plate.

The second vulnerability is a tough one to deal with. The rear inner camber link ball studs. I broke off 2 and had to replace the shock tower as the end of the stud was deep in the hole, no way to get it out. I have thought about drilling the holes all the way through and cutting a slot in the end so I can use a flat screw driver to get it out if it breaks again. Both of them broke from just a bad lamding off of a jump. I guess it must just be the angle of force when the rim hits. Due to the small spacing between the A-arm and the camber link, the link is very highly stressed. Amazingly, the ball cups NEVER pop off. I broke the studs, the cups (between the turnbuckle and cup), and even the titanium turnbuckle. On the JRX2 (I converted my old buggy to a truck 15 years ago and I still use it), the link is much higher up greatly reducing this stress. I never broke on on that beast.

All in all it is a tough truck, but I think my old JRX-2 truck is actually closer to indestructable. I crashed the crap out of it and had virtually no DNF's. I have had 3 DNF's in the MF2 due to a part failure in a race. This is not counting the Revo hit or a drop from 6 feet upside down off a huge jump, that was my fault. Just coming down a bit tilted right off a jump and then I have no camber link, or the front pin mount fails and the toe is bouncing up and back until the dog bone falls out of the diff. It does take the big cartwheels pretty well and usually just keeps going. Even serious front wheel hits are absorbed without failing. That is what makes the times it does fail seem so odd. The gearbox splitting in half is just inexcusable. They need to use a plastic with some give. Or add another brace for the back end. One broke on me when I landed on the back end off a jump and the motor gaurd hit first.

[krimo]

Hello, are any of you folks running a MF2 at OC RC Raceway?

[packard12]

I'm new to the MF2 always had associated T3/T4s now I bought a Losi I have to admit it handles better then it predecessors. is there a chart that defines what tires to use on different types of tracks? which tires last the longest and help me understand foam business. appreciated.

[packard12]

I milled Flat surfaces on my rear shafts and marked them so i know they are facing down, then I drilled and tap the rear pin holder and used set screws instead of the collars,with a little loc-tite it will hold. the collars add weight and over time they shifted, from racing alot. I plan to machine steel ones the metal that is used now is cheap pot metal it will crack over time! i hope to have some ready for purchase soon!

[Casper]

Krimo-- Not many MF2's I know of. Losi's are starting to make a comeback at OCRC. Most everyone is running a version of the TCR. The two trucks are pretty similar though. Tranny gear ratio, longer chassis and new plastic are the main changes.

On the EA3 comment. I think graphite is stronger. EA3 will flex more but this is not always a good thing. If you are running a graphite chassis you should not be breaking battery straps. I found the plastic ones flexed so much the batteries would pop out. What ever works for you though. I like the graphite cars best althoguh I am running EA3 chassis on both my cars currently

[Alhazred]

Does anyone know of springs heavier than the blue 4.1's that will fit the shocks?

[Casper]

Blue is the heaviest Losi makes. There are some spring charts out there that compare different manufactures springs. I will see if I can find it.

[Alhazred]

Awesome,thanks.I have a pair of the blues but I'm just not getting enough rebound with them on the car I'm using them for,it's a little rear heavy.

[Casper]

Blues in the front or the rear?????

[Alhazred]

On the rear.

[Casper]

Why do you need that much pack. That is a LOT of rear spring for the rear of the truck!

Most team guys are running white springs. I am an odd ball at Pink which is a lot softer then the blues you are running.

Are you bashing or racing?

[Alhazred]

I'm not running an xxxt ,I'm just using the shocks on a project car.

[GSMnow]

I typed most of this before you replied it was a different car...

What conditions are you driving it in and what is it doing that makes you want stiffer springs than the 4.1's? I currently run Orange (2.9) on the front and Pink (2.3) on the back. Our local track has a couple very large jumps so I run 35 to 45 oil depending on conditions. I also run a mild front sway bar if the track is loose, but lately I disconnected it because of too much push in a particularly tight corner. Off of a jump that puts the car more than 4 feet in the air, it does bottom out if I land flat instead of on the downside of the hill, but that is the cost of having good handling in the fast rough sections, it is well worth the trade off. Running very stiff rear springs will hurt traction under acceleration, and make the truck looser (more oversteer) in steady state corners. Do you need more steering in sweepers? Or is this for landing big jumps?

With that said, on the car you have them on, do you have enough wheel travel in back? Would you be okay with a little less? Can you change the mounting points, or angles to get a better leverage for a higher wheel rate?

[Casper]

How much does this project car weigh? Sounds like you may want to look into 8th scale shocks?

[Alhazred]

With that said, on the car you have them on, do you have enough wheel travel in back? Would you be okay with a little less? Can you change the mounting points, or angles to get a better leverage for a higher wheel rate?

I have lots of travel,but I have the shock out as far as they will go on the suspension arms.There is no room change the mounting points on the shock tower,if I could use 8th scale shocks I would but there is no room for the increase of diameter.I just need little bit stiffer spring,if Losi made a 2.5 " 5.0 - 5.5 it would be perfect.

[Casper]

What kind of project we talking about here. Longer standoffs should get the shocks to clear?

[GSMnow]

It may not be ideal, but you could wind two springs inside of each other. Use a pair of 2.8's and get close to a 5.6 rate. You may have to massage the very end coils a bit, but it should work. Losi touring car springs are much stiffer, but they are also quite a bit shorter. They have all the way up to 40 weight, you could run two stacked, for 20 weight and 2.0 inch free length.

Here is a chart of all the losi springs
http://www.teamlosi.ru/techtips/spring_chart.htm

[packard12]

Thanks! I was Looking for a Spring Chart!
now is there a chart that gives you a idea on what tires and foams to use on different track conditions? All new to losi trying to get a handle on things! I raced in door clay last week at my local track and lost pinks worked well I only had the rears on but wish i had a full set that day they worked well.

[Radron69]

If you look around on Losi's site, they have a chart that gives you a basic guide to thier tires. I don't have the link handy, But it's there somewhere;)

[packard12]

I'll be here to answer any questions you guys can throw at me.

Aaron Waldron
I have slop in my steering about 3 4 deg! shimmed front arms changed upper ball cups but still have some degree of slop with servo saver or inner components or is that small amount of play ok!

[GSMnow]

The front end design is very tight on the XXX-T series. I just check my MF2 to see, and sure enough, the only slop I can detect is all in the ball cups. One of my upper link ones is getting pretty bad, could be 5 degrees of camber at the wheel when I push it hard one way to hard the other way. Toe and Centering slop are much less than this yet still totally free and no binding. I can also just detect a bit of slop in the wheel bearings, I will check my axles for wear. The MF2 version does have aluminum axles, and if a wheel bearing binds, it can cut right into the axle and wear it pretty fast. My wheels spin totally free, so I don't suspect an issue, but it is worth pulling the wheels and making sure.

[packard12]

I too suspect the Ball cups to be the culprit, I will try using a filler compound to fill that slop! Elmers Glue and grease will fill the slop and the grease will keep it from sticking! this is what I was Told. haven't yet tried it. I'll let you know what my finding are!

[GSMnow]

Finally got back to the track for a race last night in my MF2.

A couple days ago, I toook it out for a few practice laps, and had HORRIBLE handling issues.The track was dry and a little dusty, but mostly blue grooved so traction was not too bad, but whenever I tried to put down any power, I would lose all rear grip. So I started looking over the chassis to see if something was loose or failing. What I found was a bit of a surprise. The dog bone pins had eaten into the outdrive cups. The wear was almost as deep as the thickness of the pins on the dog bones. The special shorter dog bones and longer outdrive on the MF2 are so well engineered to reduce plunging, that all the wear is in the same spot. But when the shaft turns, the pins still need to ride inand out a bit when the suspensin is in droop or compression. Well, mine was so worn, that under torque the pins would get locked in the wear pockets and the suspension could not longer move up and down freely. So the result was the rear suspension would go super stiff whenever I put down power.

I spent a day going through the gear box cleaning everything up and installing new outdrive. I also replaced the dog bones because the pins were not even close to round anymore. The quick sidewalk test proved that change was huge. I was actually able to drive it in hard and hold sweeping 4 wheel drifts without the car snapping into oversteer. With a milder turn in, it would take a solid set, and as I rolled in the power, it now just gets a slight increase of understeer as the torque makes the front end get lighter and lighter. Balance is probably a bit too much push now, but certainly not excessive. And I usually have far more issues with getting too lose at the track, so I left all the setting as is.

As it turns out, I was the only 13.5 truck, so the stuck me in a combined heat with 3 modifieds and 2 gas trucks. I could not do anything with the mod guys, but I had 2 totally fun qualifiers running nek and neck with the faster of the two gas trucks. He would pull me by over 10 feet down the long straight, but I would make up every bit of it each time through the tight infield. First qualifier, he got me by less than 1/0, and on the second qualifier I got him by just over 1 second. So the start order for the main was the 3 mods, then my 13.5 followed by the two gas guys.

I just can't catch a break in the main.
I got a very good start, taking a nice tight inside line and p[assing 2 of the mods around the sweeper to take second as we reach the timing line. As we all brake for the 180 left turn down a 1 foot cliff into the infield, I braked late and tucked in for a fast entry, but the guys behind me had different ideas, right as I start off the drop, I get slammed by a pack of 3 trucks all at once. 2 of the mods and one nitro guy all just pounded me. The faster nitro guy got around it and took off, so we have a mod way out front, then the faster nitro, and as the unpiled the trucks, the other teo mods and the slower nitro all got put out ahead of me as mine was the boittom of the heap. The leader had a half lap on me by this point, and even the last guy ahead of me had the length of the long straight. No damage, so I took off chasing. t only too 2 laps to pick off the slower gas truck. In two more laps I caught and passed one of the mods, and a few laps later, another mod fell back. I think he had a mechanical issue.

So I was up to 3rd, but now a full lap behind the leader, but closing on the faster gas truck. In 5 more laps, I totally erased his lead on me, and spent the last 2 laps trying to set him up for a pass. His greater power made a simple pass impossible, I had to really work it in the tight sections. I ran the final 6 laps all within 1.5 seconds of my fastest lap, averaging over 1/10 per lap faster than the nitro truck, amd I was right on him for the entire last lap, but his power advatage just made it impossible to make the pass before the finish line. End result, I got up along side as we hit the line, and the official result was he got me by just 0.24 second. He was able to stay ahead, because the finish timing line is on the straight aftert the big sweeper, but before the 180 dive into the infield. He stayed full on power, well past his braking point, he never would have made the turn, but didn't have to. The end result, Mod, Nitro, Me (+with just a 13.5 system).

I will also be scored with TQ and class win for Super Stock truck 13.5.