Team Losi XXX-T MF2

[gizmoguy303]

I figured it is about time the MF2 had it's own forum separate from the original XXX-T. So here it is.

Read it. Love it. Race it!

[losifreak2004]

I'll be here to answer any questions you guys can throw at me.

Aaron Waldron

[gizmoguy303]

Thanks Aaron. We need to get this thread up and running! :D

[losifreak2004]

I love my MF2. I got the kit shortly before production and I haven't broken anything since. It's stable, fast, and easy to drive, and it makes electric racing fun :-)

Below is a picture of my truck at the Hot Rod Shootout, three-wheelin'!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1060166

[microrcdude]

thats a great picture! who took that?

[losifreak2004]

Allison Mann, ghost photographer for R/C Car magazine. After every event she sends me all of the pictures of my cars.

[Homeskillet]

I just purchased the MF2. Still building, working on the rear shock tower atm. I plan on romping and jumping then racing atm. Any suggestions with the VLA's and shock locations, for jumping and maximum ground clearence? Spring resistences/oil weights?

Homeskillet

[losifreak2004]

Going for maximum ground clearance isn't always the best way to go. I'd start with the stock setup and just make changes from there.

[Homeskillet]

Well I know that max ground clearence is going to cost me in the control department. The the thing is I am just getting back into RC. I purchased a Traxxas Eagle when I was like 14. The thing bottomed out like crazy and cost me a ton to fix the motor plates, chassis...etc.

I plan on having different set ups for backyard bashing vs. on the track.

My main question is what do you suggest for the pivot point on the front VLA ? Inside or outside?

[AlexV2024]

my bk2 stays with outter VLA all the time, and my setup only changes if it absolutely has too, i change tires insted usualy. for bashing keep the VLA outter also, there isnt much ground clearance gain from jacking up the truck, get bigger tires insted like the mashers and masher 2k's i have FS. on losi rims too... any way the MF2 will be much stronger then your eagle ever would have been, so no worries.

btw im getting a MF2 soon and can't wait!

Aaron- would you say the MF2 turned out like a larger buggy? ive heard a few drivers say something to that effect.

~Alex

[losifreak24]

how does changing shock pistons effect the handling characteristics

[losifreak2004]

home skillet - I would stick with the stock positions for now. Those options won't be too important until you get to the racetrack.

Your truck shouldn't bottom out unless you're jumping onto flat ground from a big drop..and if that's the case, you really shouldn't adjust the suspension to try and stop the chassis from hitting the ground, because you'll cause more problems. The best option is to just avoid jumping the truck off of houses, cliffs, etc. altogether.

alexv - The MF2 is based off of the XXX-T, and it got the same treatment that the XXX buggy did when it turned into the BK2. Car manufacturers have been trying to use common parts on their buggies and trucks for years now, simply to cut down on tooling costs, and make it easier on racers who have both cars. It's not a "larger buggy" by any means.

losifreak24 - Interesting name! A smaller piston will have more "pack", which refers to how the shock reacts to short, sudden compressions. More pack will usually give that end of the car more traction on high bite surfaces, and help the truck jump. Less pack can help find traction on slippery tracks, and will absorb larger bumps better.

[AlexV2024]

my first racer was the plastic xxxt and i upgraded it to mf specs. i sold it a few months ago to focus on my bk2 and get a decent price for it. i knew the cnages were going to be awsome, and ive seen a few drivers say the mf2 now handals and accels like a large buggy, is that true?

~Alex

[losifreak2004]

"A large buggy" seems to be the recurring theme here..I don't know why?

The MF2 is a race-bred stadium truck. The differences between the MF2 and the BK2 are the same as they have been for the XXX and XXX-T, the XX and XX-T, the LXT and the Pro SE, etc...

[gizmoguy303]

Wow, this thread has really taken off since I was last here! Just a note to all you body-sceptics out there. One of my track buddies was pretty sceptic about the whole "better handling" MF2 body. After we traded bodies for a heat, however, he was smiling ear to ear. The body does make a difference. They actually look pretty cool as long as you don't use the front headlight and grille decals. :p

Homeskillet - simply build the MF2 to the kit setup at first. There is no need to start fussing with a setup quite yet. Once you start racing you can fine-tune your MF2. Let us know what kind of track you will be running on and we should be able to help you with your setup. :cool:

Alex - I don't see where they were going with the "larger buggy" thing. The differences between the MF2 and the MF1 aren't quite enough to transform it that much. :rolleyes: It's a truck, and is much like the MF1 in many respects. It is, however, one of the best, if not the best, handling truck out there. ;)

Keep it coming guys. :)

[AlexV2024]

I know the diffrences lol dont need to tell me again...

what im saying is with the new changes the truck seems to react faster/is ligher on its feet....alot like a buggy, insted of a more planted/slower feeling truck. is this true in your opinion? either way im still getting a mf2 weither it handalls like a truck or a buggy ^_^

~Alex

[microrcdude]

i like buggies! Ive never driven a MF2, but may think about buying one.

[losifreak2004]

It's not fair to call the handling of the MF2 buggy-like, because it's as stable as a rock.

[gizmoguy303]

I know the diffrences lol dont need to tell me again...

what im saying is with the new changes the truck seems to react faster/is ligher on its feet....alot like a buggy, insted of a more planted/slower feeling truck. is this true in your opinion? either way im still getting a mf2 weither it handalls like a truck or a buggy ^_^

~Alex

It depends on the setup. If you put the same setup on the MF2 and the MF1, they will handle very similarly. You can make the steering more aggressive and "buggy-like" by changing your setup.

[cabbynate]

Aaron,
Sweet pic of your truck!!! I like the way your paint flows with the lines of the body.
Looks really cool. Do you always run tapers on the front on blue groove and indoor clay tracks? What makes them better than 8 ribs?
Thanks man,
Nate

[losifreak2004]

We usually run Tapers on blue groove tracks to smooth out the steering and make the truck easier to drive harder into high speed corners. On indoor clay tracks we usually go back to 8-rib fronts unless they give too much steering.

[cabbynate]

Cool, thanks Aaron.
I tried the front sway bar in Sandy Valley but the track was rough so it did not work out so well. I will give it a shot a Titus Hobbies and report on that.

[cabbynate]

Is anyone running the trinity rear hubs on this truck? I am an am running 3 washers per side now. I have not experimented with them yet but 3 seems good so far.

[Carajo]

Just a quick question for you all .... I am going through ball studs left and right on my rear shock tower. . Any ideas???? :confused:

I have ordered some lunsford ti ones now but am I doing something wrong.... landing wrong maybe? :confused:

Thanks for any ideas.

[losifreak2004]

Carajo - It's hard to say if you're doing anything wrong. Is anything binding or putting extra strain on your ballstuds? Try adding a washer with a large OD under the stud and see if that helps,

The titanium ones will help over the stock ones, that's for sure.

[Carajo]

Yeah I guess it is hard to tell ... lol .... but is it normal on the Losi truck? I thought maybe I am landing a little too hard on the rear of the truck which will add strain onto them?

I checked to see if anything is binding and it dosn't feel that way. I thought maybe the end rods where too tight on the ball stud but they seem quite ok. I didn't tighten the ball studs in too hard into the shock tower. Maybe I just have bad luck..... :rolleyes:


Now I will ask a stupid question... what is an OD?

Well the order to Lunsford is in ... I can only hope that will help and I can add the washers as well see how that works out. Thanks for the idea.


Other than my unlucky balls studs I am pretty happy with the truck!

[gizmoguy303]

Where are the ball studs breaking? Also, what tires are you running? If you are running a very large-diameter tire (Proline Masher 2K's for example) that could very well be the source of your problem. Upgrade to Ti studs and that should take care of it. Let us know how it goes! :)

[gizmoguy303]

About the washers - try adding a washer with a large outer diameter between the ball stud and the shock tower. ;)

[Carajo]

thanks ....

The only place the ball studs have broke is on the rear shock tower... on both sides.

I am running the Team Losi Step Pin tires right now only because of the track conditions we have.

[Snikkari]

Hey Aaron,
What tires do you have on front and on back ?
I notice you do not have the rib style front trires.

[losifreak2004]

Haha yes..OD is outer diameter, ID is inner diameter.

Not making sure the studs are tight will cause them to break easier. If you're landing awkwardly on one rear wheel, that will cause them to break.

snikkari - I was using Red Taper Pins in the rear and Silver Taper Pins in the front.

[gizmoguy303]

Aaron, have you ever run at the NMR-C track in Chillecothe Missouri? If so, what was your MF2 setup/tires/inserts? Just wondering. We're heading up there for the State Champs. :cool:

[losifreak2004]

Hehe man I wish I could be of ANY help to you, but I haven't been east of Vegas for an R/C race yet.

Check the Losi site for a good standard setup and work from there.

[cabbynate]

I ran SoCal & Titus this past weekend and silver tapers up front WORK with the standard MF2 setup!!!!!! ;)

[gizmoguy303]

It's no big deal guys. I was just wondering if you had ever raced there. I'm sure I'll find something that'll work. If I can't find something that will work, I'll just copy my buddies setup - he TQ'd and won Stock Truck last year. :D

Right now I'm running an awesome setup for low-bite tracks. Still perfecting it but it is DIALED for our track. :cool: I know I'll need something completely opposite in Missouri, though.

[MNRCnewb]

Hey guys,

I am new to the board and I just bought and built the Matt Francis 2. I haven't had a chance to run it yet I do have a couple quick questions:

1. The body masks: I used the vinyl-like ones that came in the box and the first coat of paint (Testors rattle-can) caused them to bubble up and allow paint to seep into the masked area. Has anyone ever experienced this?

2. I read an article in the October RC Driver that stated some side-by-side packs have a hard time fitting into the battery tray. I plan on picking up a couple Fusion packs and I am wondering if there is going to be a fitment problem in that case?

3. I have looked but I can't seem to find any of the usual titanium and aluminum hop-ups. Do they exist and if so where can I find them?

Thanks ahead of time for the help!
Tony

[gizmoguy303]

Congratulations, the MF2 is a great truck.

Some people reported the body masks behaving like you described. I didn't have any problems with mine, but I may have been lucky. They are poor-quality masks and if you can use your own mask it would be better. Make sure to "seal" the edges of the mask before you paint. That might prevent the edges from coming up.

I believe the Fusion packs are assembled with Deans Probar 3.0's, and if so you shouldn't have any problems getting them in the tray. They do fit pretty tight, but after a few times of practice you should be able to get them in and out easily.

Most of the aluminum and titanium upgrades are already installed on the truck. Other aftermarket parts may be under the original XXX-T name, since they work on either truck. You don't need any hop-up that isn't already on the truck. It is race-ready out of the box.

Good luck! :cool:

[microrcdude]

THANKS AARON!

Just to tell everyone, aaron is the best pro ive chatted with. I think it's cool that he tells me whats good and whats not. Good luck to him, the endless summer classic is this weekend.

[losifreak2004]

Haha thanks dude!

I don't think I'm racing the Endless Summer..we are going to Hot Rod to practice for the Reedy Truck Race instead.

[microrcdude]

oh. well, whens the reedy race? Also, have you raced the XXXS?

[Casper]

Reedy truck race is Oct 1-3. Only a couple days away! :)

[losifreak2004]

microrcdude - Nope..I haven't been suckered into running on-road yet.

Can't wait for this weekend..the track is dialed.

[rustler 2x4]

I just got an MF2. Is the battery insulation tape really necessary? Should I put grease in the transmition?

[gizmoguy303]

The battery insulation tape prevents the battery from conducting through the graphite chassis. Clean the chassis with rubbing alcohol or motor spray and then careful apply the tape.

It is unnecessary to put grease in the transmission except where the instructions call for it. Don't put a lot of grease all over the gears in the transmission - the only places where you will need to use grease is when you are assembling the differential. Just follow the provided directions closely and you will have done everything right. Good luck!

Aaron - I saw you in a Trinity ad in my RC Car Action I just received today. :cool:

[losifreak2004]

gizmo - Hehe yeah..they've been running that ad for a couple of months. I was STOKED.

[gizmoguy303]

I just received the first issue of my subscription, since my local Wal-mart stopped carrying the mag. I figured they had been running the ad awhile, but better late than never to congratulate you right? Hehe :D

[losifreak2004]

Now we gotta try and repeat that kind of performance this weekend..

I was running practice laps in my head all day at work.

[Casper]

That must have been nice. I still don't know what the track looks like! :(

[losifreak2004]

Haha I've seriously ran a couple of 45 minute mains in my head. It's total focus mode from the time my test ends tomorrow, until the last main on Sunday..

[Casper]

But did you win!?!?!?! :p

[losifreak2004]

I dunno..there weren't any other cars on the track...haha.

We leave in 3 1/2 hours..think I should start packing?

[AlexV2024]

naw it only takes half an hour or pack (for me at least any way :-p) well good luck. do you know if Jesse is going? hes a local to my home track and hes a moderator on losibk2.com, and so am i. any way good luck and bring home the gold :-D

~Alex

[Racin Rev]

anybody know how to keep those flimsy gear covers from breaking off. I get about two outing on them and they are trash. The first one I cranked down too hard on but the next ones have been much looser to the point that i am afraid that they will back out and fall out, and yes i use locktite.

[microrcdude]

We leave in 3 1/2 hours..think I should start packing?
ya, dont wanna show up at the races without your truck!

[Shakedown]

Can the new MF2 VLA front arms be used on the XXXT/MF/XXXNT without using the newer VLA caster blocks?

If so, what hingepin hole emulates the old hingepin hole?


I really want to use the new front VLA arms on my AD XXXNT because of the extra webbing and strengthening that the new arms have. Finally, stronger front arms for the XXXNT :D .

[cabbynate]

Well, it did not work for me. The caster block on my nt was just a tiny bit to big. I got the Trinity aluminum one and that is what I run on my nt. You can always just get the caster block for the mf2 off ebay along with the arms for a pretty sweet deal..........
~Nate

[AlexV2024]

shake- id get the new f/r hubs as well, they are alot more durable, i ran the bk2hubs on my drake insted of the alu hubs, they just arn't needed unless you want the tuning option.

Im pretty sure the inner holes are the ones that are stock, thats how it was on my bk2. and losi didnt say they changed that idea so it should be the same, and ive seen alot of the fast guys at my local track running the mf2 front end.

~Alex

[cabbynate]

Shakedown,
Also I run the long arm set up on my NT and I really like it a lot. I have been through some tuff crashes and they have come out unharmed so far. I have about 8 race days on them and so far so good. I'm sure we will see a revised Drake kit with the VLA set up pretty soon.

[Shakedown]

Thanks guys!!

well, I guess i'm off to eBay :D .

[losi97]

Any one have a problem with the diff. out drives contacting the hinge pins? It appears to me that the anti squat shims cause the out drives to rub against the hinge pins, I am in the process of tearing it back down but i keep reviewing the tech manual and think I have this assembled correctly any ideas?

[Casper]

Yes I have seen this happen if you run more then 2 deg. You can demel down the hinge pins or run less anti squat. This is part of the problem with lowering the tranny so much.

[losi97]

I figured it out i tore the back end apart and flipped the front half of the rear hinge pin carrier (where shims go) and it created enough clearance. So no more rub, if anyone incurs this problem i am the first idiot to post about it. Other than that this is an awesome truck.

[losifreak2004]

Trinity-powered Team Losi XXX-T MF2's take Factory Modified and Open Stock at the Reedy Truck Race of Champions for the second year in a row!

www.hotrodhobbies.com

The "short" option on the MF2 front arms are the new holes, as are the short holes on both the front and rear of the BK2. The "long" arm option on the rear MF2 arms are new.

The new caster blocks are different.

Alex - It takes a good solid four hours to get EVERYTHING ready to go.

Racin Rev - I haven't had much of a problem with the new ones. Are they cracking around the holes or just breaking in general?

[microrcdude]

lol aaron, bad news. I ordered a B4. But dont worry, the MF2 is comming soon. Also, when does the Aaron waldron conversion kit come out? LOL j/k

[losifreak2004]

Man you're KILLING me!

[microrcdude]

lol What color parts do you use?

[losifreak2004]

I like the yellow bumpers but I've switched to the white ballcups.

[microrcdude]

hmm. Perhaps i should make an aaron waldron edition B4? That just might work out....j/k

[losifreak2004]

Nope.

[Homeskillet]

Is it possible to convert my MF2 to a buggy? If so, what all would I need and would the gear ratios be the same?>?

This is what I know I would need:
Front and Rear A arms
Suspension towers
Body

What else and is the chassis itself skinnier?

I am fairly new to RC and buggys seem faster and better for track/comp racing.
THanks for the help,

C^2

[Casper]

It is cheaper to just get a truck and sell the buggy on ebay. Here is a partial list

Tie rods, dog bones, front and rear arms, front and rear shock towers. Front and rear shocks, from caster blocks and axles, new chassis (truck is longer then buggy), new spur gear. I think that is about it but this will cost you $150+ in parts.

[Homeskillet]

Buggys are quicker and run faster track times right?

[losifreak2004]

They are faster, but trucks turn faster lap times.

[Casper]

Buggies are faster all around on most all tracks. As the track gets rougher the truck will become faster. The other thing about trucks is that they are easier to be consistant with. IF you you look at the lap times for any major race 4wd is fastes, 2wd is second and trucks are almost always slower. Buggies being lighter and smaller tires (less rotating mass) will be quicker if you can drive it. It is just easier to be faster with a truck since it is more consistant.

[losifreak2004]

And unless you're already pretty talented, you'll be faster with a truck...haha

[rustler 2x4]

Trucks are easier to control because they're wider.

[Homeskillet]

Well, anyone here intersted in trading their BK2 or B4 for my MF2? I know this is not the trade forum but the thread seems to be going in that direction atm.

=)

[Casper]

Well for most people that actually like racing buggies they are faster. I know you, Aaron are an exeption to this rule :rolleyes: but if you even look at the sportsman times, the buggies are faster! :p

[MNRCnewb]

Hey guys,

I have had a chance now to run a few packs through my MF2 and experiment with it a little. I am using the Novak SS5800 and I am trying to determine a good gearing. Keeping the stock 86T spur, I've tried both a 21T and an 18T pinion. The 21T way too tall and now I am thinking the 18T might still be a little tall.

I graduated to the MF2 from a Novak brushless-equipped Evader ST which had no problems pointing the front wheels toward the sky with a 88T/20T gearing, stock rear tires, and the rear springs set stiff. The MF2 seems to grunt a little bit off the line and although the front tires get light, they don't come off the ground. Motor, ESC, slipper, battery, and differential all seem to be adjusted/working fine.

Not looking to own a wheelie-machine but rather just wondering what this particular handling characteristic is so different.

Thanks!
Tony

[losifreak2004]

19/86 will give you the same gear ratio as what you ran in your Evader (assuming the Evader's tranny is 2.61:1 like the XXT was).

The MF2's design allows the truck to track straight and launch forward with little lost momentum..wheelies are slow!

[nate johnston]

so the mf2 body helps alot compared to the older style??? I find it hard to be true. If it is how much faster does it make each lap time or 5 min race?

[losifreak2004]

You don't believe me? Go run it..you will only need a few corners to feel how much of a different it makes.

[cabbynate]

I second Aaron's motion!!!!!! ;)

[nate johnston]

how does itr make it feel?

[cabbynate]

more planted everywere.

[Casper]

The body has lots of downforce. It helps most at high speeds. You can go into corners at the end of long straight harder.

[RCA14]

Hey tony im getting an mf2 soon and i was thinking of getting the ss5800 brushless system. How fast do u think it is? And does it have longer run times than brushed motors?

[losi racer13]

Hey guys im Kyle and i have a xxx-t rtr but converted to mfe and hopefully someone wants to trade a mf2 for my ntc3.lol. whats the difference in between the genII transmission and the gen1?

[Casper]

Smaller diff gear, smaller top gear, different outdrive, thrust screw, idler gear, tranny case, "T"-plate, rear pivot block, dog bones.

[jallday50]

I am new to RC and am looking to buy a car or truck, I have looked at the MF2 and the BK2, can any body tell me for a beginer what would be the better one for me. I have looked at new and used.

[Casper]

Trucks are more stable and easier to handle because of this. Buggies are a little lighter with smaller tires so they go faster (not a ton) but are a little harder to drive and do not have as good of ground clearance. Both are a lot of fun to drive. Pick the one you like the looks of best. Both will be raceable if you choose and both are very durable if you just choose to play. You learn a lot about the car if you buy it new and build it from the ground up but if you want to save some money and are not interested in building a car you can find some really good deals on ebay.

[jallday50]

Thanks Casper, My name is Jack I just signed up here and it has already been helpful. Again Thanks

[Casper]

No problem

[losifreak2004]

Yeah..Casper tends to do that..(be helpful) hehe

Jack - Welcome to the forum and welcome to Losi :)

[microrcdude]

Welcome Jack! Glad to have a new friend on here.

[itssmeg]

Hey Guys,
First time poster here and just want to say hello to you all. But yes I do have a couple questions on the MF2. Right now I am running xxx-t mf but I have always liked to keep up with the upgrades on new cars or trucks. So my first question is, are the bolt patterns on the front and rear chassie plates the same from the MF1 an MF2? Basicaly is what I want to do is instead of going out and buying the new truck I want to try to convert my old truck to the new truck, and just want to see if you can.

[Casper]

You can convert the trucks but it will be cheaper to buy and new one and sell the old one on ebay. It is over $120 in upgrade parts.

[itssmeg]

Thanks for the reply Casper. But what is it you all need to get to convert over? Is it just the arms, hubs, and tranny or do u need to change the whole front and rear clips less the shocks and shock towers?

[Casper]

Here is list (may not be fully complete)

Tranny case, diff gear, idler gear, top shaft, motor plate, rear pivot support, front (of the rear) pivot support, t-plate, arms front and rear, rear hubs, front spindles and caster blocks gear cover, drive axles, bones and spacer.

The MF2 kit also include white ball cups, white drive yoks, titanium nitrate hinge pins and MF2 body. The other nice thing about a complete new kit fresh shocks and all new bearings. It is up to you but that is a lot of money in upgrage parts. By selling your existing kit you can get a whole new truck for about the same or even less then the upgrade. The chassis, front bulkhead, front nose plate and kick plate, and towers are all the same.

[losifreak2004]

Casper - Do you have that on copy/paste yet? :p

[Casper]

No but I should! :rolleyes:

[xratedtmaxx]

Have a xxxt MF 1 and was wondering if the MF 2 front arms will fit using the same MF 1 front c hubs and spindels? Thanks in advanced..

[losifreak2004]

Yes, but you will have to use the inside hole on the arms.

[Toiffel]

Does anybody know where I can get some good gear recomendation, I have been using the info on the manual, but it seems to be on the high side, I was using a 15d in my truck with a 22 pinion, but the motor became soo hot it melted the solder from the brushes and esc. I checked the brushes and they have that darn purple color from over heating, since then I have dropped to a 18 tooth.
Any help much appreciated.

[itssmeg]

Hey just wondering if anyone would be so kind to scan page 14 of the instruction manual, or the diff. screw with step d-6 an d-7 or figure 31-36. I am building the diff. and have tried looking that page up on the losi web site but it won't link and inlarge. So just wondering if anyone would mind helping me out. Thanks. Gary

[losifreak2004]

http://www.teamlosi.com/ManualsJPG/XXXT_MF/15.jpg this is the page from the MF1 but the diff assembly is essentially the same. You are using a spring instead of the washers.

[itssmeg]

Thanks for the link losi

[losifreak2004]

Noooo problem dude.

[Casper]

Yeah..losifreak2004 tends to do that..(be helpful) hehe

(Sorry I could not resist!) :p

[losifreak2004]

Hahahaha. You gonna be at Titus Sunday?

[Casper]

Hahahaha. You gonna be at Titus Sunday?

Yeah I will be there. Ryan and I went out and practiced the other weekend. Should be fun although they changed the layout. It will be interesting with 10 cars in heats!

[losifreak2004]

I've never been there, so it'll be a learning experience.

[Casper]

It is a cross between the new So Cal and MnM. Just your kind of track! :p

[itssmeg]

You two must be some what local to me. But where is MnM at? I know SoCal and Titus, but haven't heard about MnM sense I was a kid but never been there, so just kinda wondering where another track is.

[Casper]

MnM does not exist anymore. Aaron and I have been racing for a long time and just used that as a comparison. MnM and Titus have the same dirt.

[losifreak2004]

Yeah...it was sad to see MnM go *tear*

[itssmeg]

Ok I had thought it had closed a long time ago but I had heard rumors that it was going to reopen. But you know how rumors go. So what other good tracks are there besides SoCal and Titus, that are some what local?

[Jim Baia]

Homeskillet..you have PM

[Jim Baia]

homeskillet..you have a PM

[Jim Baia]

to the top

[mugenX5]

homeskillet..you have a PM
Too late. The truck is sitting in my basement.

[Jim Baia]

Too late. The truck is sitting in my basement.


That sucks...I was hoping for that.

[losifreak2004]

itssmeg - That's in for indoor tracks!

My MF2 was absolutely STRAPPED at Titus..by driving dumped at the 4 minute mark, haha.

It'll be ON like donkey kong at Hot Rod!

[fly442]

new to rc. what is the difference between mf1 and mf2

[microrcdude]

The tranny is the major difference. Other than that, its just some minor changes.

[losifreak2004]

Front and rear suspension, and the body.

[RCKrazzy]

Hello,
I was wondering if anyone out there would know what parts I need for my MF to accommodate the GEN II Tranny. A comprehensive list would be great. Thanks.

[Casper]

Tranny case, Diff gear, Top Shaft, Idler gear, rear t-plate, front and rear pivot blocks, rear inner hinge pins, outdriveds, motor plate, gear cover, motor guard, dog bones and rear axles.

Everything should be identified as for the Gen-II tranny except for the diff gear which is the same as the XX.

[losifreak2004]

Do you have that on cut and paste yet Casper?! :cool:

[bv4ryr]

Old school newbie here. Is the tape for the battery tray necessary? Back when I started, graphite was a space age material you could only get from NASA.

[Casper]

The graphite will conduct electricity. It is a good idea use the tape to make sure you do not short out the battey on the chassis. It will also keep electricity from flowing through the chassis that might cause radio interference.

[bv4ryr]

Thanks Casper. I thought that might be the situation. I bought a used MF2 and the tape was MIA. What type of material comes with the kit? I am assuming electrical or strapping tape would make a suitable replacement.

[Casper]

Yes anything non conductive will work. The kit tape is actually a teflon tape that is precut to fit on the sides and clear the cutouts. Electrical tape or even schotch tape would work. The Teflon helps get the batteries in an out of the car. Electrical tape may not work since it is a little more "rubbery" and may stick or tear when you take the batteries in and out but it is worth a try.

[bv4ryr]

Sounds good. Thanks for the info.

[Breakin2]

Does the MF2 drive similar to the AD2? I have the AD2 and was thinking of picking up the MF2 as well.

[Casper]

The MF2 and AD2 share front end parts. As for driving the same. I do not think electric and Gas drive similar at all since the power comes on so different with the two types of cars. I have not gotten to drive my AD2 yet but the MF2 is awsome.

[losifreak2004]

Casper is dialed..makes my job of policing five different BB's MUCH easier!

[Casper]

Glad to be of service Aaron! :)

[losifreak2004]

Hahahaha

[Casper]

The other thing about electric and gas is the weight dist is also different. Gas trucks also get lighter when they run. They are just different beasts!

[losifreak2004]

Rotating inertia of an engine and flywheel, different roll centers because of all that weight sitting up high, tons of different things..

[Casper]

Yeah what he said! :p

[losifreak2004]

..and the fact that gas truck is just more fun! :p

[ronhbar]

who makes replacement bodies for these? I'm new to trucks after touring cars, and I can't seem to find anything that is in stadium truck style. Everything that I have found looks like it is more for the monster trucks.

Thanks,
Ron

[microrcdude]

the losi fury body fits, and it seems to be a popular choice for this model.

[losifreak2004]

Why would you want an aftermarket body? Coming from TC, you should know that downforce is key!

[Fail Racing]

Proline Makes a GMC and a Crowd Pleaser
McAllister makes a Dodge Dakota
Losi has its 3 bodies

[ronhbar]

losifreak2004,

true, however I also have a 7 year old, so style is more important than ultimate downforce....for now. It sounds like there really are just a few choices, especially compared to 190mm touring cars. I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't missing something about how they were described.

Thanks,
Ron

[losifreak2004]

Oh..hehe.

Body choices have always been kinda limited for stadium trucks. Some companies have bodies advertised as "XXX-T", which will fit the MF2 as well.

My personal favorite as far as looks go is the Fury body, which actually is pretty darn good for stock racing.

[Legacy]

I wish I could get my hands on a few factory finished bodies: the xxx-nt AD@ and the xxx-t rtr sport II. Anyone know how?

[losifreak2004]

the AD2 bodies aren't sold painted. The Sport II bodies should be available separately by now..

[Legacy]

the AD2 bodies aren't sold painted. The Sport II bodies should be available separately by now..


I see... so are the flames etc on the AD2 stickers?

[losifreak2004]

Nope, that's a special one-off painted body done by Kurt Schliester of A-Main Bodies.

[Casper]

I thought Skipgear painted Adam's bodies?

[losifreak2004]

Nope. Skip does Adam's stickers, but Kurt paints the bodies.

Haven't you seen the "A-Main Bodies" stickers on his trucks?

[Casper]

Ok I get it now. I have seen the A-main stickers but I figured he just went back and forth to who was able to get the bodies done to meet his needs. All clear now. :)

[losifreak2004]

No..he has a painter, they're not "clear". HAHA :p

[Legacy]

No..he has a painter, they're not "clear". HAHA :p

You really shouldn't have. No wait, I actually laughed at that :D

[losifreak2004]

Ahhh man it had been a long day. I was dying for something humorous.

[Legacy]

Ahhh man it had been a long day. I was dying for something humorous.
I can relate. By the way, I'm excited. Just received my new xxx-t sport II in the mail. It looks awesome. One problem, it came with the wrong color/frequency so back it goes. It's agonizing having that thing in the box waiting to be shipped back. :( Oh well, I'm just more excited now to get the right one. Just need to order some GP3300s from promatch and I will be set.

[losifreak2004]

Why are you sending it back because it came with the wrong crystals? Crystals are less than $15-20 a set. Then you'll have two sets!

[Casper]

Actually that car comes with an AM radio. The mini-t crystal sets are only $5.95!

[losifreak2004]

Hahaha..dialed!

[Legacy]

Yeah, was more of a color thing than a frequency thing. Car comes factory finished and I liked the blue, hated the red....

[losifreak2004]

Ahh..I see. Haha

[itssmeg]

Ok, this probley should have been put in an off topic thread but o well i'll still ask. Where can i find a gear raito chart for the 48 pitch gears? I remember back when i was racing as a kid you were able to get one every time you bought a new spur gear, but now if you ask all the shops seem like your nuts.

[losifreak2004]

I think Casper had one on his site, but it might've only been for the old tranny.

I just use a calculator.

[Casper]

I only have a recommended gearing for different motors. A gear ratio chart would be easy to do in excel. Spur/pinion gives the ratio ie. 84/21=4.00 I made an excel spread sheet if you want it. This site would not let me upload it.

nielsen_d@yahoo.com

If you want it.

[Toiffel]

Gearing.....gearing.....gearing......
This is my current set up:

3300 GP
Quatum Compition LRP Speedo
17 turn double Pro Gem motor
Stock Spur

I tried the 23 tooth that the manual recomends and came off too hot, one by one went down to a 20 tooth, and the solder from the brushes melted, what is a correct starting point? The track is tight, lots of hard turns.
Thanks

[itssmeg]

Thanks once again Capser and Losi. Casper spread sheet is great again thank you but one not for you about it. The math for the 87 spur was set up the same as the 86 but was an easy fix, but I just wanted to give u a heads up incase someone else hits you up for it.

[Casper]

Ok I will take a look at it. I through the chart together in about 10 minutes to see how hard it would be! :p I never did proof read it. I will fix the error though, thanks.

[Toiffel]

Any help with the gearing question much appreciated.....

[Casper]

Truck or buggy?

Truck I would start gearing at 19-20/86
Buggy I would start 21-22/78

If the brushes are unsoldering there is something else going on like too much amp draw usually caused by excessive drag. Gearing in these ranges should put you close for a 17T motor.

[Toiffel]

I had increased the drag break, could that be it???
Thanks

[Casper]

Do you have a diode on the motor? If the brakes are on a lot that can heat up the motors. Diodes on the motors can help with breaking efficiency.

[Toiffel]

No I don't have diodes. Thanks for the help

[Toiffel]

Casper
How many diodes would you recomend?

[Casper]

I would just start with one schottky (sp?) diode like you can get at most any hobby store. Your speedo is forward only correct? Diodes cannot be used for reversing speedos!!!!!!!!!

[Toiffel]

Thanks Casper, I went with a 19 pinion, it worked out perfect. By the way it's a MF2.
Thanks for your help.
Just one more thing, I believe there is rule of thumb regarding on how many teeth to go down when you go down on turns??
Thanks

[Casper]

The rules of thumb for mod motors work for about 10-15 turn mods. When you go below 10 you may need to experiement and you can only gear so tall for motors over 15 turns. Unfortunatley they have really started playing with mod motors now also. There are high torque mod motors and hi RPM mod motors so you kind of need to play with a little and see how things go with a particular type of mod motor. Once you find the correct gearing if you change winds with the same type of motor the rule is one tooth per wind. So if you go from a 13 turn to a 14 turn gear up a tooth on the pinon. If you go from a 12 turn to a 11 turn gear down a tooth etc.

[hyperformance]

I've got a MF2 with a Novak Dually ESC, Orion Core stock motor (with the Novak supplied capacitors), Hitec Agressor Radio/Hitec Reciver and I've developed a problem with the motor "glitching" when I let off the power. The motor has a couple blue sparks in it and it makes the wheels glitch a little and turn back and forth just a couple of degrees. It seems to only do this when I have on full power and let off. The motor and ESC only have had about 4 packs (GP3300) ran thru them and I've noticed this. I'm new to the electic game, so this might be a "noobie" question but I can't seem to figure it out.

[Casper]

The core already has caps on it so you did not need to add any additional caps! Did you put the diode (black thing with silver stripe) on the motor? That should not be the problem. Try another motor to see if it does the same thing and then we will need to look else where.

[hyperformance]

I don't know what happened but I just ran it for about 15 mins today. Maybe I was just getting interference yesterday. Thanks for your help. Any other problems I have I'll be sure to post here.

[losiguy1090]

Hey guys. What's up?

I've been looking into getting an MF2 and had a couple questions.
1, Whats a good base setup that works well on most tracks? [I'll be running mod, if that helps]
2, Does anyone have some lil tips and tricks for the build?

[Casper]

Run the Drake setup found on the losi site. This is a great starting point for this truck.

http://www.teamlosi.com/setups/triple-xt/index_mf2.htm

[losi racer13]

whats the fastest a mf would go with a a 13x2 motor and a gearing of a 48 spur and a 16tooth pinion ?

[Casper]

You cannot put a 48 spur on the car! 84/16. I would guess in the 30-35 range?

[losiguy1090]

Kyle, fast enough :p

[losi racer13]

nothings fast enough, except if i throw some rocket boosters on it lol

[losi racer13]

yea sorry that was the pitch i gave u haha

[losi racer13]

ok. i bought a xxx-t rtr a year ago and over the year i converted it to a matt francis (everything except the shocks) is there a way of converting the transmission to a mf2 since its a better one and what would i need to do to convert it to a gen. 2 trans. if u could can u give me a list of what i need to buy..thanks

[Casper]

Tranny case, outdrives, top shaft, idler gear, diff gear, gen II t-plate, Gen II dog bones, vla arms and rear hubs, axles, front and rear pivot suports, rear bumper (keeps hingpins in place) inner hing pins, motor plate, diff screw with square wire spring. I think that is about it.

[losi racer13]

wow thats alot to replace

[Casper]

Yeah. I forgot you need new axle spacer that go between the drive pin and the outside hub bearing. This is all the stuff you need to fully convert the rear end to the MF2 config.

[losi racer13]

i was thinking about making my car a full matt francis by getting all red stuff such as rims, ball cups, motor plate, bumpers, and red front body posts. is there anything else im missing i already got ti. turnbuckles, bb steering, everything graphite, kevlar gear. if i am missing something can someone tell me what i am. i think the mf has cvds. do cvds work better then the universals?

[iheartskins]

Hey guys. I just read through this thread because I'm debating between getting a Associated T4 FT and the XXX-T MF2. I've been basically all Team Associated thus far (I've got a T2, T, and an NTC3 FT), so I'm a little biased in their favor, but I'd be psyched to try something in the Losi arena. Losifreak has already helped me out in the Jammin' thread (and I haven't gotten the money together for the Jammin just yet)--so what do you and the rest of the guys who post in this thread think about MF2 v. T4 FT?

[Nitroooo]

Hey guys, does anybody know what is needed to convert the MF1 to a MF2? thanks

[Ozzy]

What store/shop has the best price on the MF2?

[Casper]

Ultimate hobbies has them for $219 I believe. They also have free shipping for items over $50. www.ultimatehobbies.com or better call 714-921-0424.

[Ozzy]

Ultimate hobbies has them for $219 I believe. They also have free shipping for items over $50. www.ultimatehobbies.com or better call 714-921-0424.


Thanks I will give them a call to verify.

[iheartskins]

Any answers on the T4 v. MF2 comparison?

[Casper]

People here will be biased to the MF2. I think it is a stronger more tunable truck. The T4 is a good capable truck. Both can and will get you to the winners circle if YOU are good enough. Niether will do it for you. It is really up to you. The T4 has some front arm issues (they are a little weak) but abuse either truck enough and you will break parts.

[iheartskins]

Thanks for responding Casper. :) I'd imagine that there would be a bias--but I still wanted to hear input. How about building/maintenance differences--are they both relatively comprable? And does Losi have a good customer service department?

I'm leaning toward the MF2--mostly because I want to try something new and it appears that it's a great product. Just want to make sure I'm making a good decision.

[Casper]

I have been driving Losi cars for about 10 years. They are easy to work on and have a great customer service base. A lot of the team drivers are friendly and approchable if you need help at a big race and all that good stuff. Both cars are VERY similar in they way they are built and how they are maintianed. I truely feel Losi has better shocks then AE (MUCH easier to build). The kit will go together VERY easy much like the AE. I think you will be satisfied with the truck. Both companies make top notch stuff and stand behind there product.

[iheartskins]

Thanks for your input Casper. MF2 it is. Once I've purchased and put together (and purchased a digital camera) I'll post some pics. Again, definitely appreciate the input. :)

[losifreak2004]

Want proof Losi's customer service rocks? Every single day I'm not at a big race, I'm here to assist Casper in answering your questions..hahaha.

If you ever have any problems with your Team Losi kit, e-mail me!

Aaron Waldron
Team Losi factory driver

[Casper]

LOL Aaron! :p

[losifreak2004]

I had a feeling you'd get a kick out of that!

[xxxtnut]

I figured it is about time the MF2 had it's own forum separate from the original XXX-T. So here it is.

Read it. Love it. Race it!
HI! I"m looking for the original XXX-T forum can you please help me?

[Nitroooo]

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=1722242#post1722242

[redsixer]

What happened to the MF2 online manual at the Losi website? I cant find it there anymore.

[Casper]

Looks like Losi screwed up there site buy linking to the Horzon descriptions. I would e-mail Richard Trujillo rtrujillo@horizonhobby.com and ask him what up?

[tarvymoto]

I noticed the same thing. It's nice to be able to refer to the online manuals when ordering parts etc. while at work ...or away from the paper copy. I hope the fix it.

[jeepinator2]

I just assembled an MF2. I've been doing the RC thing for a little while :D
I was really impressed with all the metal parts; the machining is tight. When did Losi change the universals design? The new pin w/grub screw is awesome! For reference, the last Losi kit I built was the XX4 WE...
Anyways, I was not at all impressed with the injection molded parts. Flashing from hell! I dang near ran through my box of #11 blades :D (being serious)
And the kit was missing 1 thrust washer. I had a spare fortunately.

Is it just me, or is the inner rear end a bit of a PITA? Reminded me of the LXT/Pro SE :eek: The friggin' stuff just would not line up. Perhaps it was the recreational flora :D

Regardless, the final product is kickin'. I can't wait to drive this thing.

Oh, and I'd like to strangle whoever wrote the tips from the team (in the manual) or whatever it's called. Holy comma overload!

[redsixer]

I am looking for a good street tire to run on my MF2 when Im bashing around the house. I have been using hole shots that are too worn out to race with anymore, but I want something to grip the street better. What do you guys recommend?

[tarvymoto]

I am looking for a good street tire to run on my MF2 when Im bashing around the house. I have been using hole shots that are too worn out to race with anymore, but I want something to grip the street better. What do you guys recommend?

Losi makes an onroad truck tire. Also you could try some pro-line "striker II" they are great all terrain tires.

[Casper]

The pro-line drit hawgs are a good tire also. They have a very large lugs so they have good wear but they also work decent in dirt or grass. An onroad tires like the LST-90 or the Striker II is that they do not work well in grass or dirt. Just another thought.

[gizmoguy303]

Summer's starting...time for some off-road! :D

I'm ready to start racing my trusty MF2 again :cool:

[Re-Mix]

Hey, I was wondering what parts are interchangible between the xxx-t and mf2? I have decked out xxx-t and spare parts roller, and might be getting an mf2. Ideally, I'd like to put on my rpm/lunsford turnbuckles and hinge pins, along with my adam drake shocks. I have a rear trinity pivot block, but im guessing that won't work. Also wheels are the same correct? Any help would be appreciated. I bash only, so should i stick with the mf1?

[gizmoguy303]

If you bash only there is really no reason to buy the MF2. Once you start racing I would recommend it. In the mean time, spend that money on other stuff like batteries, motors, chargers, etc. :cool:

[scottw]

Time to bring this thread back. I am switching my direction. I bought a couple of T4's but I dont like them :D.. So I am going to go with a MF2. Any new information out there, been like 6 months since this thread was posted on.

scott

[philp37]

What dont you like about your T4 units? What have you heard about the MF2 that will improve this? Are you racing, bashing, or both?

[philp37]

Any one know if MF2 arms fit evader?
I know that MF1 or XXXT arms do, as to the xxt cr arms.
I think that the same answer for the question: do mf2 arms fit on the xxxt? will also suffice.

[RON F]

My local track is trying to start a 19 turn class.
There are so many 19 turn motors to choose from,which are the best and where should I start gearing them ?

[Casper]

I would go with either a C2 based motor if you want torque (truck) or the KD version for buggy or an open track layout. The C2 produces great power and good bottom end. The KD motors scream on the top end but can be a little softer on the bottom. You can get a good TOP can 19T but they in general do not produce the power the EPIC based 19T do in my experience.

[Drkmstr104]

Hey, my friends MF2 has problems with the differential. He took it apart to fix it up (it was making a squeaking noise) and once he put everything back together nothing was working, he checked the manual like 4 times to make sure it was put back together properly. Basically it is slipping, is it just really hard to put back together? Have any of you had a problem like this?
Thanks!
-Drkmstr104

[Casper]

Check the slipper. Also check to make sure the tire wheel pins are not broken or the rim is not damaged.

[RON F]

I went ahead and purchased the Kimodo Dragon 19 turn motor.
I'm going to start gearing at 86/20,is this a good starting point?

[Casper]

I am assuming a MF2? That should be a good starting point. These motors have a ton of RPM but are a little down on torque compared to a C2. Just keep that in mind.

[Bigedmond]

any one started using xxxcr parts on there yet. I converted to the cr steering setup, and rear hubs on my MF2. Thing was dialed when the track owner took it for a spin. Now i just need to get my driving better.

[T/Losi]

Does anyone here go on http://www.losibk2.com

Cheers

[Casper]

I have been there once or twice! :rolleyes:

[Toiffel]

Hey guys, I need some type of starting point for pinion gears, I know the manual has some info regarding this, but for some reason my friends at the track say it's way off, can you guys shed some light, and yes I understand, that there are many variables (type of track, surface, type of motor) but there must be a reference point?? or just stick to what the manuals say??
Thanks in advance

[Casper]

I think it matters more what motor you are running. Let us know what motors you are running and we can give you good starting points.

If you pinned me down and did not tell me what kind of motor you were running I would give you this answer.

Stock motors 17/86
19T 20/6
Mod motors 7 teeth over the wind. (ie. 10T motor 17T pinon, 11T motor 18T pinion etc.)

You can also check out my web site which has a gearing chart on it.
http://home.socal.rr.com/casper04/Gear_Chart.htm

It is a little outdated but will give you an idea.

CO27 motors I run at 18/86.
I have not tried the X stocks yet but I would be around 16-17 due to there high RPM characteristics.

[Toiffel]

Thanks for the help, by any chance Losi Spring Ratios??

[Casper]

http://home.socal.rr.com/casper04/Spring_Chart.htm

[Toiffel]

million bucks?

[Toiffel]

sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but the higher the rate the stiffer the spring or the lower the rate the stiffer the spring?

[Casper]

It is a lbs to compress the spring one inch. So higher number is stiffer.

[Toiffel]

Casper

I need some set up help, my truck pushes like crazy, running the MF2 stock set up, only difference 35 shock oil rear w/ pink springs, what can i do to fix insane push????

[Casper]

The stock setup is way too soft all the way around. I normally would not give this type of advice as I like to help tune the car from your setup but I truly feel the kit setup on this car is way off. Put my starting setup on the truck and lets go from there. My setup is a derivation of the "Drake" standard setup that works really well on this truck. This should give you some more steering and if you need more I can help better from this starting point but I think this setup will give the truck a more nutral starting point and we can tune better from there as I think this will get you lots closer.

http://home.socal.rr.com/casper04/Standard_setups.htm

[Toiffel]

Front:
Toe?
Ride Height?
Limiters?
Ackerman?

Rear:
Toe?
Limiters?

Thanks

[Casper]

Front: toe 0* to 1* out
Ride height: arms level
Limiters: The big one. (I think it is "A")
Ackerman: Stock. (outside)

Rear: Stock toe. You cannot adjust this with the MF2. I do not think they make VLA 1* rear hubs. 3 degrees is stock on the rear pivot.
Limiters: none. Some guys even unscrew the eyelet a turn or two to get additional down travel but this is only needed if the track is blown out or very rutted.

[Saboteur]

Hey all I plan on buying a MF2 from a guy and was wondering would the 17/86 combo do great for my Monster Horsepower stock motor? I also have a really old Trinity D5 Flatliner 11x2 pro motor from a friend. I figure the mod motor will be a beater motor and have the stock motors set for racing as I may even pick up an elec buggy later on. Electric is beginning to come back to me so I said heck, go ahead with it.

Also, is the MHS "outdated" for a decent stock motor? There seems to still be potential with this motor, but maybe I've been using the wrong packs. Time to definately get some 3000NIMH or 3300NIMH packs.

[jamesbernatchez]

Hey all I plan on buying a MF2 from a guy and was wondering would the 17/86 combo do great for my Monster Horsepower stock motor? I also have a really old Trinity D5 Flatliner 11x2 pro motor from a friend. I figure the mod motor will be a beater motor and have the stock motors set for racing as I may even pick up an elec buggy later on. Electric is beginning to come back to me so I said heck, go ahead with it.

Also, is the MHS "outdated" for a decent stock motor? There seems to still be potential with this motor, but maybe I've been using the wrong packs. Time to definately get some 3000NIMH or 3300NIMH packs.


If you decide to run it at wolcott you might want to think differently about running the stock motor. Some of the guys are running Novak 6.5's and the others are running mod motors so you would have a hard time keeping pace with them(plus a few of them can really drive :D)

[Casper]

Gearing on the monster is good. They are good motors but run stronger in buggies then in trucks due to there high RPM characteristics. For batteries if you are going to get new go IB. The IB cells have lower internal resistance and higher voltage then the older GP3300 cells which will be needed to stay on top of competative stock racing. If you are just bashing get the lowest end packs you can find and save the money but these cells (even at low end matched levels) are way above the GP3300's in performance.

[Saboteur]

How much do they run for (pricewise)? Any additional run time? I'm all about performance, but wouldn't mind a few sport packs for messin around. I wanted to get back into elecs to cut down on some $$. Sure I can get a "decent" RTR basher, but even then I'd want something very durable and not something I'd have to "pimp" with aftermarket parts to make it as strong as others.

[Casper]

You can get a stick pack of IB3600's for $29.99. You can get stick packs of 3300's for 19.99 but the IB's will give you more runtime in mod and better performance in stock.

http://www.promatchracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=IB3600ST

[Saboteur]

I assume that's a great site to order from? Any issues with ordering? If so that's a great price for packs. :) I'll definately save if it's worth the order. Too bad I can't see pics of what I'm ordering though...

[Casper]

There are pictures of the cells in other places in the page. I am assuming pack is done in a === configuration in a "shot gun" style pack. Promatch has been in business for many years and has a great rep. I would recommend them or Slingshot batteries if you are going to get matched batteries. Slingshot does not offer stick packs just yet but they will soon.