Savage mods

[DT-10 basher]

i should be gettin a savage soon, i have read some of the posts and the diffs seem to be a weak point on it, and the engine head seem to be another problem,so im goin to get some stuff for my new savage so it wont break easily.
RC solutions rollcage.
Diff mod stuff
OFNA pirate monster servo saver

can anybody else think of stuff i might neeed to protect it.

[HPICasper]

Looks good make sure you get the Ofna crosspins for the gear mod and not the kyosho ones. The kyosho ones seem to wear. Also you want diff oil at least over 5k or it will leak over time and you will have to tear them apart to re-oil them

[DT-10 basher]

what is the problem with them,i know they are a problem cause they break alot but why?

[SKEEZE]

I used the stock pins and just notched them. They have lasted 10+ gallons of wasp power. I havent had a problem at all. I would say the diff mod and the MP servo saver mod (with a stronger servo) change the truck dramaticly.

As far as the engine goes you can to the tie strap thing or if your a hardcore basher make a engine cage.

http://img68.photobucket.com/albums/v208/skipstr71/hyhyh.jpg

[DT-10 basher]

thanks for that(will a dremel drill do the notches?)
i have a bit of money from a summer job so ill get the rc solutions rollcage so i can protect everything.also ive heard about the header tank? what does it do how it work where i get it?

[SKEEZE]

Yea a dremel with a cut off wheel will work good. Take your time with it though.

The RC soultions cages are strong to a point. I have seen a few to many bent ones. Then with that cage you have to hack the body all apart. Then dissasembling the truck becomes a big time chore. Just keep those things in mind as you spend $100+ on the cage.

[zeldafreak1434]

this won't help protect anything, but you might want to getting a better throttle/brake linkage, the stock one is crap, but that is just me
-mike

[DT-10 basher]

ok, if i get the rc solutions rollcage i probably wouldnt be using the body, also theres not much chance of it bending as i am not planning on doin any huge jumps or that.
now for the revised list of what i need:
1. header tank
2.diff mod stuff
3.rc solutions rollcage
4.OFNA monster pirate servo saver( with bearings)

I think thats about it but if i remember anything else i will say and if anyone else has a suggestion let me hear it.

[doesgo]

If you're not planning on doing any big jumps or anything, why bother with the 'cage? I've beat the carp out of my Savage with only the stock roll bar and other than bending the stocker a couple times, I've done nothing I can think of to the truck that a roll cage would have prevented.

[DT-10 basher]

i mean no huge jumps i never said i wasnt jumpin etc, i just want the peace of mind that my cars gonna be alright no matter what (dont be literal here) also i let my friends drive my car a wee bit and they have nearly trashed it a number of times and with a rollcage they can be as brutal as possible, also i go on a you break it you buy it policy. thanks for your comment anyways

[doesgo]

Thanks for the clarification.

[slaf]

If you modify (4 spiders gear) your diff use longer 18mm screws when assembling your gear to the diff.

[DT-10 basher]

why use longer screws?????????
also i ahve to get a motor saver air filter or just maybe a bigger airfilter.
also is the steering mod really needed cause i have heard some people say its alright when you get moving which is the same as my st.

[doesgo]

If you can get a strong enough servo-mounted servo saver you don't need the MP saver. Supposely Kimbrough makes one that's stiff enough but I haven't tried it.

The problem is even when you're moving, the saver is too weak to hold the tires in the line you want them to go. I have a 200 oz-in steering servo and a weak saver and the servo certainly spins all the way when I give steering input, but the wheels don't turn very far even while driving. Makes for huge turning circles at full steering lock!

[DT-10 basher]

if i do the servo saver mod does the stock hpi servo work well enough then?

[kitty]

DT-10: The stock servo is weak, period. Something with more torque is needed, such as the Hitec 645MG or even the XTM Punisher servo.

doesgo: I disagree. Even the Kimbrough #124, which is the black one meant for GTs, doesn't hold up very long. The best solution for now is the MP servo saver arm.

[SKEEZE]

Well said kitty. I had the kimbro and it was slightly better than the stock one, but nothing like the MP set up. The MP is how it should have came stock. Its night and day difference. BUT the stock servo is not strong enough. The hitecs are cheap and they replace them for any reason. Once you do this mod you will be done with the streeing.

[SKEEZE]

sorry double post.

[kitty]

DT-10, the reason for the longer screws is because the stock ones tend to loosen or pull out. Recommended sizes are M3x18 or M3x20. Use machine-thread, not self-tapping ones - they get a better grip and don't strip out as easily.

[SKEEZE]

Yea mine were pulling out all the time untill I used those screws. Should have came like that from the factory.

[Peg Leg]

Maybe this is in a different thread, but I was wondering about the dual exhaust pipe. I bought one and i feel the truck doesn't shift or run properly. Anyone have any ideas why and what i have to do? Maybe change the shift point? Please help if anyone knows. Or point me to the right thread about this subject. Thanks :D

[kitty]

For those who catch the "dual exhaust pipe" part above, Peg Leg has already learned a lesson via a thread he started in another forum. Poor guy fell into the eBay "gotta have one of those" thing and bought the copper pipe dual exhaust that doesn't work for crap. Just a warning for anyone else thinking about buying one of those.

[Peg Leg]

I learned my lesson now on the dual exhaust pipe. Bought a tuned pipe and she runs way better. My question now is, i want to upgrade the shock springs. I like to buy and have someone deliver to me so i, of course, buy on ebay. Maybe a mistake, maybe not. I found these shocks on EbAy an was wondering if anybody can tell me about these shocks.Triple Rate Shocks (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5915339453&rd=1) :cool:
They seem like something good, but don't know. If i was to be jumping only 3-5 feet, what would be a good firmness. Medium, Firm or Extra Firm? Please advise and thanks. :eek:

[ParadingLunatic]

If you're going to do something like that, you're almost better off buying several different sets of springs at different rates, snipping them, and then installing them in bits on your shock, although it probably won't work all to well either. The springs that come with the 25 and SS are a pretty good rate but the oil is junk. All you really would need to do is get a set of springs that the 25 and SS use (if you don't already have them) and put some new silicone oil in. From what I hear, a lot of people seem to like 25-35. My savage is pretty much totally stock with the exception of the throttle linkage mod and the diff mod...still have yet to put real oil in the shocks. I can drop it from about 5-6 feet without coming close to bottoming out. As for the springs you found on Ebay. Don't really know how those would perform. By nature most RC springs are basically "progressive rate" meaning as they compress they are harder to compress. At $7 they may work, and they may not.

[Peg Leg]

Want more top end out of my Savage. Was wondering if somebody can tell me how many teeth the stock clutch bell has and what clutch tooth i can get to get more top end speed out of her? Looking for more up grades to make her faster. Any ideas? Thanks :rolleyes:

[kitty]

Your manual should show which clutch bell and spur yours came with. I have the SS kit, which came with 15t and 18t CBs and a 49t spur gear. I think the RTRs come with a larger spur. One thing to keep in mind when gearing up for higher top end is to watch the engine temperature closely. Part depends on your driving style and what type of terrain you're on. Higher gearing can put more strain on the engine, making it run hotter, especially if you're throttle happy like I am. That's one reason I keep mine geared low (15t bell).

[Peg Leg]

Thanks for the advice. I'll probably keep the stock cb and gears. Read in another thread that bigger tires will make top end speed. Will the 40 series work for this idea? Thanks ;)

[kitty]

It depends on which tires go on those 40s. I can't remember which ones, if any, are taller than the stock tires. I do know that the new K-Rock (http://www.imexrc.com/TEMAXX_TIRES_NEW2.htm) (look at the bottom right of the page) tires by Imex are a bit taller than the stock Savage tires. The 7" tires by Hot Bodies are taller, but the rims like to break, so I highly recommend against those. They're more for looks than anything else. And for heavens sake, please do not buy any Imex Jumbo Kongs. They're just overly-priced dog chew toys, in my opinion.

[doesgo]

The more teeth on your clutch bell (and/or fewer on your spur), the faster you'll go. Up to a point, that is, which is based on your engine's power output. Keep in mind that gearing for speed will decrease your acceleration rate.

The number of teeth on your stock bell depends on what Savage you have. The easiest way to find out for sure is to count them!

[Peg Leg]

Still trying to upgrade my savage like with a new body. Already got the hpi el camino now i want another one. Let's say i want a 55 chevy nomad wagon and the rear of the body is taller then the stock body. Does anyone know of body post extenders or are there any taller body posts that i can get to raise it for taller bodies. Also looking for the skool bus. Please let me know if there is anything to help with a taller body. Thanks, Pegleg :cool:

[kitty]

If you bought your truck new, it should have included a set of taller body posts. If you bought it used or tossed the taller posts, you'll need HPI part #85059 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLC9&P=7). The description on Tower says that it includes two long body posts, though it pictures just one. It's been a while since I built my SS, so I can't remember if both long mounts were on the same tree.

I'm pretty sure that some bodies include taller posts, though I'd bet that they're meant for mounting on the Maxx trucks.

[billysss]

the best mods to further strengthen the savage are:
1. heavy duty cvds
2. heavy duty propeller shafts
3. 4 crossing spider gears
4. heavy duty engine mount
5. Sirio 27 engine (use stock low teeth, the engine's so powerful, you'll need wheelie bars.
6. RD logics alum wheels (for ultimate bashing) no more tearing of wheels by the hexes
7. hpi dirtbone tires (never use bigger tires that these) you'll just waste money

i've been through a lot of bashing, believe me, now you can try your back flips.

[zakerid]

I dont know why so many people say there are probs with the stock savage diffs. I have an SS with a Fantom 27, beat the crap out of it and never had a prob. I did have probs. with the stock rims and bent a couple shock shafts. If I were to do it again I would upgrade the steering and ditch the stock rims.

[kitty]

zakerid, are you referring to doing the MP (Monster Pirate) servo saver mod as a steering upgrade? If so, I fully agree with you. How much fuel have you run through your truck so far? As much as I love the Savage, if you've had more than a gallon through yours with stock diffs and they haven't poofed on you yet, you're very lucky. They should make them with four spider gears to begin with. Nice engine, by the way. =)

[zakerid]

I have 4 gals. through my s-25 engine, and just started breaking in my new fantom motor

[Peg Leg]

Question for anyone? Are the carbs on the 21 25 and ss the same size? I have the 21 and was wondering if a bigger carb will help with acceleration or top end? Always trying to go faster :D Thanks, Peg Leg

[Quinton]

I am getting a Savage soon so I will be watching this helpful thread.

"I had the kimbro and it was slightly better than the stock one, but nothing like the MP set up. The MP is how it should have came stock."

What is the MP servo setup? Short for monster pirate? Can someone please link me to the different parts I would need in order to install this. Is there a one piece kit I can buy?
About the diff mod, if my diffs are still in good shape can I just buy 4 xtra spiders and the extra ofna rods and install these in my stock diffs?
More ?'s to come. Thanks