My First Impression With U-force-75

[david mountain]

I have test my new combo last week-end, a Schulze U-Force 75 with Twist 47 motor in my Losi xxx bk-2 1/10 buggy..............WOW :eek:
I've gear it 20/82 and it's very fast. I have about 10 minutes + of run time with great power ( with 6 GP 3300 matched). The controller temperature stay under 145 and the motor under 100 degree. (The body of the bk-2 is very tight and the controller don't have to much place for cooling, i've mounted it on the batteries strap for more cooling).
I'am faster than nitro truck with .12 and .15 O.S. engines.

[DaFF]

So you like fluorescent pink do you ?

Finally received my UF today. It feel like a brick. Got no idea what material the case is made out of, but it is no cheap plastic for sure ...

I still have to find the schulze gold plated connector. Where did you get yours ? It is not compatible with 3.5 PK :confused:

I don't know if there is anyone with UF and Lehner Basic combo, but I am thinking as well at removing the female plug from the basic to only have one connection on the UF ( and not 2, one on the motor side and one on the esc side ). Anyone done something similar ? Pictures ?

I do have as well the PC link and since I got my laptop from work, it will be a breeze to experience with UF setup straight at the track.

Anyway, can't wait to try this puppy ( my holydays start end of the week, so loads of time in my hand )

DFF

[Lou_]

The first switch on this UFORCE is : OFF = Neodym , ON = Ferrit
With an Hacker C40 L6 : OFF or ON ????? I don't know :(

[ElectricThunder]

I think hackers are neodymium. Not totally sure though.

[david mountain]

One things, i don't know which frequency (8 or 16 kHz) with twist motor. I'have try both but don't see any differences

[05h3t5ky]

David Mountain--> Glad you like the U-Force 75...it seems everyone coming into BL dreams of getting this controller now, and a lot have already purchased one. I too have one running in my buggy, except I run it with a Basic 5300 in my RC10B4...runs like a batattahell. :D Only thing I have to do it buy a small fan to mount over it under my body, b/c my shell fits tight and I use velcro around the edges to keep out dirt, so my airflow is severely reduced, even with a hole cut out just forward of the controller.

And as for the frequency setting, you won't notice too much of a difference at all driving and throttle-wise. All it really will do is change how much heat is produced by your system as it runs, depending on your style of running and such. Try both, and use whichever one runs cooler.

DaFF--> Yea, Schulze did a real nice job of putting the U-Force together....I'm sure it could take quite the beating before giving out, but I prefer not to test that...industrial-strength velcro for mounting and still allowing access to the DIP switches works like a charm. :cool:

As for the gold plugs, I ordered an extra set or two from Modelflight. The exact URL for the page is http://www.modelflight.com.au/schulze_accessories.htm It's the last item on that list, the "Perfect plug system gold 3.5mm male bullett conn". They work fine for me, and have the hole in the side to allow you to solder the wire to come out at a 90 degree angle for mounting under a low-profile body like in an electric buggy.

But as for the connectors on the BASIC side of things, all I did was buy an extra set of gold plugs and made double-ended, double-plugged wire segments, and once I pluged them in to the basic side, I heatshrinked them together individually with the plugs on the motor end so that I really only had one set of connections to worry about (that is, the ones on the controller end), but I would still have the option open in the future to easily change the wires on the motor by cutting the heatshrink and separating the plugs. ;) If you don't want to use plugs on both ends of the wire segs like I did, you could always treat the female sockets on the BASIC like you were soldering a wire into the male gold plugs...that way you don't have to worry about damaging/shorting the windings in the process of chopping off the female connectors, removing the clear-coat they coated all the windings (including the segs of the windings coming out of the can into the connectors) with so they wouldn't short, and soldering. :)

And please let us know how the U-Soft works for you....I barely had enough money to buy the U-Force 75 alone at the time, but now I recently have been thinking of buying the U-Soft as well to be able to dial-in my setup a lot more. I am curious to see how it works.

Lou_--> Leave that DIP switch to "OFF"....Hackers are Neodymium motors.

[TheSteve]

I've been experimenting with timing, drive frequency and soft-start delay every weekend.
I was running super soft timing and 8 Khz, I've since switched to soft timing and 16 Khz - a little more timing and a higher drive frequency has made quite the difference. Things stay cooler and I get more runtime(20% or so) I use quite a bit of partial throttle at my track, so obviously efficiency is improved with my current settings.

I've also turned the soft-start delay down to 200ms - on weekends with more grip I'll likely turn it down further.

I also recommend everyone use the programmed end-points (DIP switch 2). If you have the U-Soft programming software use the DIP to to set the programmed endpoints, then when you switch to RCS programming the endpoints will already be entered/displayed in the software as programmed via DIP 2. (Otherwise guessing the endpoints in milliseconds could be tough!)
After that you can switch DIP 2 back to off(along with all of the others) to keep the software happy, this also allows you to fully shield the switches - and then others can't see your settings by peeking at your dip settings.

[DaFF]

Thanks a lot 05h3t5ky for the feedback.

I've ordered some stuff and the plug from Hollein in Germany and I just received the notice telling me to go to the post office to pick-up the goods - Right on time -

I hope that inside the box are the right connector to the UF...

And I think I'll do what you said on the basic side of it i.e. welding wires straight inside the female 3.5 mm PK plug. That way I don't have to worry avout any miscontact and I won't need anymore PK male connector ( hard to find around here, my LHS only had 2 left, bummer ).

BTW, I don't understand why neither Lehner ( for the basic ) or Schulze ( for the esc ) provided the extra connector to fit their plug system.... I mean nearly 300$ and I still have to struggle finding the right plug ... ho well !!

Fixing my UF on my chassis, I'll use high strenght foam double sided tape. I shouldn't have any need to bottom access on my UF since I'll do all the tweaking with the PC link.

I'll sure keep you posted and will post screengrab showing my UF setting. I hope to have enough time during my holidays to play with the settings and see how does it react, monitoring both motor and UF temp

For now, I'll setup the max rpm to 65 000 and the cut-off voltage to 12 volt because I'm using 3200 mA 4S2P lipo - that's 14.8 volt and fully charged it could spin over 65 000, while I don't want my expensive lipos to go under the 3.0 volt per cell death -

I have weighted my whole car fully assembled RTR with body on and it is 1.320 kg, that's 2.90 lb.

That's extremly light for a 1/10 sedan and I am sure it will fly with that much power.

Steve, I'll follow your advices on settings as a starting point. Thks.

BTW, I like the fact we will be able to exchange infos on the UF settings and I am sure it will help me to tune it to the last drop of power, while maintening good balance for driveability and runtime.

I'll need to play as well with pinion size, I have a few in hand ready to be tried.

L8ter

DFF

[TheSteve]

DFF,

Your U-Force didn't have the 3 male PP35 motor plugs already plugged into the U-Force? Both of mine have, just unplug them and solder them to your favorite motor wires.

btw, when anyone solders the PP35 connectors you should always remove the spring barrel first. That way getting the plug hot causes no problems. Once its cooled pop it back on - heat will cause the spring to lose its tension.

[DaFF]

OMFG, I feel soooo dumb LoL !

Upon further inspection, I did notice the connectors were there :D

Got my soldering iron ready to go...

Tks Steve

DFF

[TheSteve]

Good to hear!(when I got my first one it took me a bit to realize thats where the connectors were)

[05h3t5ky]

DaFF--> Lol. No probs on the feedback man...I'm tryin to get myself more active on this site and RC10B4.com after a Looooooooong absence. But now I too feel stupid for not pointing out that the connectors should be there...I somehow thought you were talking about buying an extra set to just have on hand, not that you were wondering why it didn't come with them... :p But yea, I think all three of us suffered the same mistake, b/c when I first got mine, I wondered where the heck the plugs were stuffed in that fluorescent pink box...just to look at the U-Force and find them plugged in... :D