nitro beater

[crazydiablo606]

im looking for a brushless system that will be able to beat a 60+ mph nitro touring car. right now im looking at a Schulze U Force 75 and maybe a kontronics twist 47. im not sure if this is gonna do it any advice will help. also does anyone have a price on the schulze esc i can't seem to find them anywhere. oh and also a price and a place to buy the kontronics or lehner motor. thanks

[starluckrc]

The U-Force will be available soon for $260. The Twist is a good motor but may not be a 60+ motor. Not sure how the U-Force will be either pushed to those limits. I think the best bet is to run higher voltages with higher turn motors to keep the current down. The U-Force would probably be fine on a 540-12S and 12 cells or 4S lipoly. The larger 36mm can motors will be more up to the task of delivering the speed. If you are stuck with lower voltages, then you may want the 540-7S and 18.97kw controller. I will be thoroughly testing the 7S on the U-Force to see if it is up to the task. I can get Kontronik motors as well.

[crazydiablo606]

would this work
a u-force 75 and a lehner Basic XL 5000?

would that be a compatable combo,

starluckrc- i plan on running a 12 cell pack for drag and maybe an 8 or 7 cell pack for just club racing

[ElectricThunder]

Basic XL motor is way to big. Plus to reach max watts it pulls about 125 amps. Those motors are better suited to MTs. A basic 5300 would probably be more suited to your touring car. As for the U-force, that should work since you'll be running 7-8 cell packs. Just be careful of current spikes.

[DaFF]

Yes, I can confirm first hand that it is not an easy task to beat the nitro guys, even with a high end BL :D you sure can beat them on a small track, but on a wide open track it is a different story ( BTW, I am talking high end 1/10 gas with a top engine and a good driver )

And to reach 60 mph is no easy task either, especially if like me you still want to have a good handling car and want to curve though turns at high speed.

Sure, 12 cell Nimh on a UF and 12S or 4200 Twist would be able to deliver the high speed you'll want, but it will weight a ton and would not be a very potent performer through the turn ( that's if you can fit 12 cells on your car also, I highly doubt it on a 1/10 ...)

To me, the only way of beating the nitro on accel, top speed and handling is to run a carefully chosen BL + lipo setup. That's what I am doing, but I am still struggling finding the right lipo for the job. Anyway, having tried this, I know for a fact that it can be done and when I'll be all set-up, no nitro will be able to keep-up :)

Good luck !

DFF

[crazydiablo606]

alright thanks for the help. well the track is being redo and is gonna be pretty tight with the turns, although there is gonna be a 150' straight. i was wondering if a novak super sport combo would do the trick

[DaFF]

150 feet ? Man, you might have a chance with your Novak.

My track straight is almost double that lenght :D

DFF

[NIC]

Very often going abit "slower" means turning quicker laptimes. I mean to gear down a little so that you will be VERY consistent instead of screaming down the long straight away.
Think of it this way:
On the straights you are obviously going faster then in the turns, therefore you will spend less time on the straights then in the turns. So you can gain more time being faster in the turns then being fast on the straights. This offcourse if your track have some slower tricky sections, normally a track has thoose.
If you have good "turn-in" with your car you will need less breaks to get down to what cornering speed your car can handle. Then if the car behaves good on exits of turns you can begin to apply trottle in the middle of the turn to get a fast exit and therefore get a head "start", or an advantage in exit speed if you like, to a car that isn´t going that well in the corners. You will prob. be the first car when going into the next corner and can therefore defend your position by "shutting the door" for the car behind.

Also driving abit slower and don´t make ANY mistakes is in 99% of the cases going to win a race then going faster and make ONE mistake.

On our track wich is a track with pretty long sections of full throttle and really sharp and tricky corners with lots of hard breakings, having a well set-up car is far more important then having one that screams down the straight. Even if the straights are many and long.
The lap records and avarage speed of the cars that drive there are this:

1/10 nitro 2-speed sedans; includes Mugen MX2 and 3, Serpents, Kyosho V-one RR and FW-05 : 15.53 sec, 47,5 km/h (Mugen)

1/10 IC 235mm rear wheel drive 2 speed: 14,22 sec, 51,9 km/h (Serpent)

1/10 electric sedans: 13,84 sec, 53,3 km/h (Me and my old TF-2, 10 FAUP cells B40 6L)

1/10 pan cars: 13,30 55,5 km/h ( Petri Kyriläinen Ass 10L and I with Switchblde 10)

Now, think of it this way: If you had a car that had a maximum top speed of 50 km/h or about 30 mph and you were able to keep full throttle during the hole lap you would have turned quicker laps then the nitro sedans ! That is really frustrating !

When I calculated out the average speed of our track I was actually really upset with the results and really surprised that the average speed was so low !

The pan-cars didn´t go much faster then 70 km/h on the straights but almost kept that speed during the hole lap.

You should really analyse your track and time every section to see were you are abit slow and can make up some time. Also measure for how long you car spends on the straights versus in the corners.

NIC

[Andrewg]

just looking at efficiency and output figures

try a Hacker b50-12S on 10*GP2200

the efficiency 20-30A is about 86-88%
the efficeincy 30-50A is aout 88-90%

the 10 2200's weigh about 1.3 ozs more than 6 GP3300's

Voltage is cool power. Increased voltage means a wider band of the high efficeincy and good top end while allowing you to gear down for strong torque

The capacity of these cells at 30 amps continuous is 2ah - or 4 minutes - with throttle control 5 minutes shouldnt be hard - or add another 2 cells and reduce gearing further.

This will give you 25-80 amps at close to 90% efficiency. the wdth of the power band lets you use shorter gearing to get the motor spinning and not drawing so much current or up it a touch and have big grunt but cool running