Lose Hammer Weight

[CFRACR]

THOUGHT THAT I WOULD THROW THIS OUT THERE FOR ALL THE HAMMER OWNERS. I HAVE MODDED THE WHOLE INSIDE (RADIO BOX, FUEL TANK) WHICH DROPPED JUST ABOUT 7 oz's. THATS ALMOST A HALF POUND!!! :) 7 oz's MIGHT NOT SOUND LIKE THAT MUCH, BUT IT IS TO A BOAT OF THE HAMMERS SIZE (BEING GLASS.)

HEAR GOES THE QUICK VERSION, IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED IN DETAILS I WILL BE A BIT MORE DETAILED AND POST PICS AS WELL.

I TOOK OUT THE GAS TANK AND RADIO BOX, THEN REMOVED ALL RADIO GEAR. PUT THE TWO OF THEM ON A DIGITAL SCALE AND THE FUEL TANK WEIGHED JUST OVER 3oz, AND THE RADIO BOX JUST OVER 4oz. BASICALLY I GOT RID OF THE FUEL TANK AND REPLACED WITH ANOTHER OF SAME FUEL CAPACITY THAT WEIGHED LESS THAN 1/2 oz. (DROPPED JUST SHY OF 3 oz's THERE.) AS WELL AS GETTING RID OF THE RADIO BOX ONLY KEEPING THE SERVO INSERT, I DROPPED A LITTLE OVER 3oz's THERE.
COMBINING THAT WITH THE SOME OF THE HARDWARE. THATS WHERE I GOT THE TOTAL LOSS OF JUST ABOUT 7oz's.

NOW I DID THIS TO MAKE UP FOR SOME ADDED WEIGHT FROM A PAINT JOB. BUT BY DOING WHAT I DESCRIBED ABOVE I MADE UP THE ADDED WEIGHT FROM THE PAINT, AND STILL DROPPED 3oz's FROM TOTAL STOCK WEIGHT. IF YOU HAVE THE STOCK GEL COAT THEN YOU WOULD BE LOSING ALMOST A HALF POUND!!! ANYONE WANT TO GO FASTER??????
I THOUGHT THAT I WOULD THROW THIS OUT THERE. :D

[mjmsprt40]

Just be sure you're not trading radio integrity for speed. Getting rid of the radio box does dump some weight, but at the cost of having your radio more vulnerable to water in the event of flipping, or any of the other "fun" ways these boats get submerged.

[BoatDoc]

mj's right. i'll give up a little bit of speed if it means making sure my radio won't get soaked in a roll over, which i've done many of.

[CFRACR]

WELL GUYS YOUR RIGHT, ABOUT THE ELECTRONICS. ( WHAT ABOUT THE FUEL TANK? ) 3oz VS .5oZ REGARDING THE ELECTRONICS, WELL ITS LIKE THIS. THE STOCK BOX IS BY NO MEANS WATER TIGHT. WITH A BALLOON OVER YOUR RECIEVER IT HAS THE SAME PROTECTION RATHER IN OR OUT OF THE BOX FOR THE MOST PART. AS FOR THE SERVOS, THEY CAN BE SEALED. I HAVE CHECKED INTO THAT. THERE ARE TWO SPOTS ALONG THE SIDES, ONE TOP ONE BOTTOM. RUN A BEAD THERE AND AT THE WIRE ENTRANCE. JUST TO BE SAFE A LITTLE DAB OVER THE SCREWS. I WAS ASHURED THAT THIS MAKES THEM WATER TIGHT. ( AND STILL CAN BE REMOVED AND SERVICED :) ) AT THE WORST CASE YOU WOULD NEED A NEW SERVO, WELL THERE 12.00$
ONE OTHER THING I FORGOT TO MENTION. THE INTAKE FOR THE WATER IS TOTALLY UNACCESSABLE WITH THE RADIO BOX IN PLACE. WHEN YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE WATER INTAKE TUBE YOU WOULD NEED TO DISMANTLE THE WHOLE RADIO BOX, DISCONNECT ALL LINKAGE, AND CUT OFF THE EPOXY. THEN RE-EPOXY AND RE-ASSEMBLE. JUST TO REPLACE THE INTAKE TUBE. :eek: YEAH THATS RIGHT. TAKES A GOOD WHILE AND ALOT OF WORK, JUST TO DO A 1 MINUTE FIX!!!!
WITH WHAT I HAVE COME UP WITH, THAT IS NO LONGER A PROBLEM. EASY ACCESS TO THE REAR AND WATER INTAKE AREA. ALSO EASY TO CLEAN BACK THERE. BELIEVE ME WHEN I FIRST REMOVED THE RADIO BOX, THERE WAS A BIT OF SLUDGE STUCK UNDER THERE. EVER GET A PIECE OF SOMETHING CAUGHT UP IN THE WATER INTAKE?? IT HAPPENS.......
WELL ALL IN ALL, I FELL THAT NOT ONLY DO YOU LOOSE ALMOST A 1/2 LB OF WEIGHT, THAT WILL GIVE YOU ADDED SPEED FOR SURE!!! IT MAKES IT MUCH EASIER TO SERVICE & CLEAN.

[Watercadet]

OK scooter, go ahead and believe that you can water proof your swerbos...;) The baloon trick is not a sure bet either. Personally I like using the "barrier" method for "bagging" my reciever if you catch my drift... The opening is bigger and can slide the reciever and wires in easier. I use the non lubricated w/o resovoir tip. Give it a twist and sinch a zip tie arround it. I usually add a paper towel in there as well. I know that Ron borrows his wife's "products" and that is a great idea, I just can't get the courage to ask mine :lol: "Uh babe??? can I use one of those...uh..things...??" Any way... So even dipping the servo in the rubber handle stuff and greasing the out-put splines is not going to keep the inside of a submerged swerbo dry. Fact. I am sure that some of the others with experience can atest to that. Even a water resistant radio box would help. There is really no such thing as a water proof one regardless.
Good luck!
Adam
P.S. and you said that only $12 for a replacement servo huh? How about what happens when that servo quits when you are running? Talk about having to have access to the transom... you will need it as the hardware will be torn out when it cruises up the beach from a "waterproof" servo.

[CFRACR]

Watercadet-I KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN. I SAID WATER TIGHT, NOT WATER PROOF. I AM ONLY DISCUSSING THIS SET-UP FOR THE NITRO HAMMER. I HAVE RUN MINE THIS WAY MANY TIMES NOW, NO PROBLEMS. I GET VERY LITTLE WATER IN THE BOAT TO SPEAK OF, IF ANY. THE ONLY TIME IT GETS WET INSIDE IS AFTER A FLIP. I CAN ONLY SPEAK OF WHAT I HAVE EXPERINCED FOR MYSELF AS OF NOW. ( NO PROBLEMS YET ) MUCH MORE SPEED AND SNAPPY !!!

ALSO AS FOR A REPLACEMENT SERVO, (12.00$) THAT WAS RETAIL INCLUDING TAX. ACTUALLY YOU CAN GET A STANDARD SERVO FOR ABOUT 9.00$.

PEACE- :)

[Watercadet]

Sounds like a good deal on the servos @ $6. When I buy standard servos I like the Airtronics 102's @ about $13. I was actually implying that a bad servo can take out a boat (or parts of it).
Adam

[CFRACR]

Watercadet, OH YEAH I GET WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. YET, I STILL WANT TO GO BACK TO SAYING THAT THE STOCK RADIO BOX FOR THE HAMMER IS NOT WATER TIGHT. THE PLACEMENT MAKES IT JUST ABOUT IMPOSSIBLE TO GET ANY WATERPROOF TAPE ON THE BACK AND SIDE.

THE MOD THAT I CAME UP WITH JUST GETS RID OF THE BOX. I STILL BALLOON THE RECIEVER,BATTS,& SERVOS. I USE A CLEAR ELASTOMERIC SEALANT ON THE SERVO'S. I HAVE DONE THIS TO ALL MY SERVOS FOR YEARS. ( I ALSO HAVE A FLOAT PLANE ) AND OTHER BOATS AND PLANES.
I ACTUALLY FEEL AND CAN SAY WITH CONFIDENCE THAT I WOULD BET THAT MY ELECTRONICS, ESPECIALLY THE SERVOS ARE WAY MORE PROTECTED FROM WATER THAN THE FACTORY SET-UP FOR THE HAMMER. :)

PLUS AS I SAID BEFORE, BY DITCHING THE RADIO BOX & FUEL TANK. YOU DROP ALMOST A HALF POUND OF THE TOTAL DRY WEIGHT. AS WELL AS HAVING OPEN EASY ACCESS TO THE WATER INTAKE NIPPLE IN CASE OF DAMAGE. I ALSO NOTICED THAT THE FACTORY TUBE/LINE WAS ABOUT 3 INCHES TO LONG. CUT THAT OFF FOR SHORTER TRAVEL, AND WAS ABLE TO TACK IT DOWN OUT OF THE WAY AND FREE OF BEING KINKED OR PINCHED OFF IN ANY WAY.

I WOULD SAY THAT I PICKED UP ABOUT 5-7MPH INCREASE!!!! :eek:
IT RIDES HIGHER OUT OF THE WATER AND JUST ABOUT SKIMS THE SURFACE.
ALSO TURNS A BIT MORE SNAPPY, BECAUSE IT DOES'NT DIG SO MUCH IN TURNS.

[ejp]

I see what you all mean about servos not working. The batt in my box started to fall out and I nosed her right into shore at almost full throttle. Nothing was hurt but it was pretty scary not having any control.

[CFRACR]

WELL I JUST CAME BACK FROM THE LAKE A FEW HOURS AGO. THERE WAS A SLIGHT RIPPLE AND MY BOAT WAS RUNNING ALMOST LIKE A HYDRO!!! :eek:
I COULD NOT GO PAST 3/4 THROTTLE WITHOUT IT LITTERLY LIFTING OFF THE WATER. AT FULL THROTTLE JUST SKIPPED ACROSS THE WATER ALMOST UNCONTROLBLY FAST. (ALMOST FLIPPED BUT SAVED IT :D )
WITH THE LOSS OF WEIGHT IT SITS WAY HIGHER ON THE WATER. LESS DRAG MORE SPEED. :)

ALL IN NEED TO DO IS MAKE ANOTHER SET OF TRIM TABS AND TURN FINS. THAT SHOULD DO THE TRICK. THUS ALOWING ME TO RUN MORE AT FULL THROTTLE AND STILL HAVE SOLID CONTROL!!!!

I WILL FOLLOW UP WITH THE TRIM TAB THING, THEN WHEN I GET CHANCE, I WILL TAKE SOME PICS OF THE SET-UP!

I WILL SAY THAT GETTING RID OF THE STOCK FUEL TANK IS THE BEST THING THAT I COULD HAVE DONE. NOT ONLY DO I HAVE THE SAME FUEL CAPACITY, BUT IS WATER TIGHT AND WILL NOT LEAK OUT FUEL FROM TIP OVERS LIKE THE STOCK ONE. OH - DID I MENTION THAT THE FUEL TANK ONLY WEIGHS .4 oz's, UNLIKE THE STOCK ONE AT 3.0oz's.

ALSO:
QUOTE: Watercadet OK scooter, go ahead and believe that you can water proof your swerbos...
WELL STILL NO SERVO PROBLEMS, AND BTW, GOT PLEANTY OF WATER IN THE HULL TODAY, CAUSE WAS A BIT CHOPPY. I JUST EMPTIED OUT THE WATER AFTER EACH RUN.

[CFRACR]

Some Pics To Follow. Notice The Acess To Behind Te Box, And The Routing Of The Water Line To The Head. I Tacked It To The Rail Underneath So That It Would Not Move, Kink Or Pinch. I Cut Down The Fuel Line To The Carb For Less Travel. And Replaced Factory Tubes With Thicker After Market. Specially The Outgoing Hot Line!
I Took The Balloons Of The Servos So That The Set-up Can Be Seen.
Basically I Have Balloon's Over The Servos With A Hole Punched Out For The Linkage. :)

[CFRACR]

Another View

[CFRACR]

Another

[Watercadet]

Tripping me out with the first two pics being mirrior!! :o Glad to hear about the sucessful run ;) Nice to hear people enjoying this hobby.
Adam
P.S. Scooter ;)

[ejp]

Can we see a view of the servos with ballons on. Not really understanding how the ballons are held on.

[CFRACR]

Ejp, I Can Get Some Pics But Might Take A While. My Wife Lent The Digital Camera To A Friend That Went On Vacation. :(
Pretty Simple Though. I Just Got A Bag Of Balloons From The Store That Were Big Enough To Cover The Top Of The Servo. (party Balloons) Then Undo Linkage, Push A Hole Into The Ballon With Linkage. (ps: I Sharpened The Tips To Help) Pull Over The Servo And Use Pull Tie To Hold. presto The Rubber Holds Tighter On The Linkage Arm Better Than The Booties That Are On The Stock Radio Box. Also I Trimmed Off The Ends Of The Servo Control Arms For Less Movement. Thats It- But What I Did With My Radio Box Is A Bit Advanced, You Being 14 And All. (change The Fuel Tank, Is very Easy) Losses 2.5 Oz Which Is Alot For This Boat.

Watercadet- Thanks Man :) , But That Was About The Tenth Run With My New Rigging. I Was Testing Something Out Yesterday. (ajustable Trim Tab/turn Fins That I Made. I Need To Make Them A Bit Bigger, They Did Work Great And Made A Big Difference, But This Little Boat Is so Flying On The Water Now That
I Still Need A Little More Surface Area For Complete Control. :D

[ejp]

I'm not worried about how dificulte it will be I just want to know how I can do it. What do you have the servo holder bolted to.

[CFRACR]

I'll Start By Saying That This Mod Cost Less Than 10.00$ To Do!

I Used A Piece Of midwest Birch Plywood 3/32(2.5mm), Comes In 6x12 Sheet. Using The Servo Tray As A Guide Cut The Same Size Piece. Need To Get A Piece Of 1/2 Stringer Too! To Bring Up Height Over The Hull Stringers. Mark And Cut Out Servo Holes And Epoxy The Stringers, Then The Wood Deck!! ( Important-put Your Stock Tray On Top Of Wood And Lay In Place, Using Your Canopy Make sure That The Body Mounting Pole Will Match Up!!!) Then Mark And Epoxy Wood. The Stock Tray Has Wood Screws At The Corners. Use Those To Mount Tray After.

Any Other Questions? :)

[CFRACR]

OH, BTW THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE TIMID. IT REQUIRES A BIT OF TUNNING OUT THE WAY IT RIDES IN THE WATER AFTER THE WEIGHT CHANGE. IT RIDES CLOSER TO THE SURFACE, SO BETTER THAN STOCK TRIM TABS ARE REQUIRED! THEN JUST A BIT OF PLAYING AROUND TILL YOU FIND THE SWEET-SPOT. THEN YOU WILL BE IN THE ZONE :cool: . YOU WILL LIKE THE WAY THAT IT SKIPPS ACROSS THE WATER AT MUCH FASTER SPEEDS. WINDING OUT AS IT SKIPS ACROSS WAKES WITHOUT LOSING SPEED. :D

[ejp]

Hey cfracer look. I managed to get rid of the radio box all by my self. Heres a pic. Tell me what you think. :)

[BoatDoc]

don't forget to water proof that battery!! so...once you've completely modded out your hammer, what's the next project? it seems like you're really into this, and the rest of us always like to see another addict, uh...i mean new enthusiast.

[ejp]

Well as you see on my other threads I plan on painting it next. Once I can't do anything else to my hammer I will hopefully get a kit for like a 50" boat or kit. If nothing else I'll at least make my hammer eat up miss buds.

[BoatDoc]

you'll be eating miss bud's in no time. it doesn't take much to make a hammer faster. and besides, most people have so many problems with the bud's that it's not much of a challenge anyway! good work so far! keep it going.

[ejp]

Thanks for the encouragement man. My hammer is broke down right now and thats why I'm doing all this stuff. I'm waiting for props, cause I broke a blade off mine. TOO MUCH POWER!!!!!!!!

[Hydro Junkie]

Why not just outclass all the Pro Boat Duds and build an 1/8th scale and let the guys that spent money on them eat tail(rooster that is). You can have a NICE BOAT that's twice as fast and twice the size by next spring

[CFRACR]

Why not just outclass all the Pro Boat Duds and build an 1/8th scale and let the guys that spent money on them eat tail(rooster that is). You can have a NICE BOAT that's twice as fast and twice the size by next spring

I SECOND THAT, BE CARFUL NOT TO SPEND TO MUCH MONEY ON THE HAMMER. HYDRO JUNKIE IS RIGHT, YOU CAN GET A MUCH BIGGER AND FASTER BOAT FOR A BIT MORE $. THE MOD THAT I POSTED IN THIS THREAD ONLY COST 10.00$. LIGHTER=FASTER W/ JUST A BIT OF TRIM TAB TWEEKING!

EJP-LOOKS GOOD THOUGH!!! :) YOU DO NEED TO BALLOON THE BATTS & THE SERVOS. I HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM SINCE THE MOD, BUT I HAVE NEVER FLIPPED SINCE EITHER. :D ALSO DON'T FORGET ABOUT THE FUEL TANK. YOU CAN GET A 3oz ONE LIKE THE ONE THAT I HAVE PICTURED FOR ABOUT 3.00$. ITS 2.5oz LESS DRY WEIGHT AND IS 100% WATER AND AIR TIGHT!!! ( 3.00 MAJOR CHEAP UPGRADE )

[ejp]

Where did you get your fuel tank and what brand is it? I did ballon the batteries after that and I just need to ballon the servos.

[CFRACR]

COOL :cool: , I HAVE HOBBY WAREHOUSE ABOUT 3 MILES FROM MY HOUSE. I GOT THE TANK THERE! CHEAP!!!!, I DON'T REMEMBER EXACTLY WHAT KIND ECT. ( I THINK GREAT PLANES ) LOOK AT THE PIC AND MEMORIZE, ITS A 3oz. YOU SHOULD HAVE NO PROBLEM. EASY, EASY, EASY!

[CFRACR]

I ALMOST FORGOT TO MENTION :eek: , NOT ONLY WILL THE NEW TANK BE LIGHTER & WONT DUMP OUT FUEL IN THE CASE OF A FLIP. BEING AIRTIGHT THE PRESSURE FROM THE TUNEPIPE IS TONS BETTER. SINCE ITS NOT GOING TO JUST RELEASE OUT OF THE LID, (LIKE THE FACTORY TANK DOES)
THOSE FLIP LID FUEL TANKS ARE A WASTE IF YOU HAVE A TUNEPIPE, CAUSE TONS OF PRESSURE IS LOST!! THIS WOULD APPLY TO ANY R/C VEHICLE WITH A TUNE PIPE.

[BurnZ]

How do you fill up these fuel tanks?

[CFRACR]

How do you fill up these fuel tanks?

EASY, YOU JUST PULL THE TUBE OFF THE CARB AND INSERT YOUR FILLER.
THEN JUST PUSH IT BACK ON AGAIN. (THATS HOW PLANES ARE FILLED)
I PERSONALLY HAVE A CAN THAT HOLDS THE FUEL W/ A PUMP ON THE SIDE.
JUST USES FUEL TUBING WITH A SMALL BRASS NIPPLE ON THE END. THAT WAY NOT ONLY IS IT EASY TO FILL ANYTHING, BUT CAN SUCK TANK DRY TOO WHEN FINISHED. :D I THINK THATS THE DOWNSIDE OF FILLER BOTTLES. BUT IF YOU USE ONE, ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS PUT A NIPPLE VALVE ON THE END TO ATTACH TO THE FUEL LINE. BTW, HOW DO YOU EMPTY THE TANKS WITH A FILLER BOTTLE??? NEVER USED ONE BEFORE AND AM CURIOUS.

ONE OTHER THING- YOU WILL NEED TO REAM OUT THE INTAKE HOLE ON THE TANK FOR THE TUNE PIPE. JUST A LITTLE,

[ejp]

I did the Ballons on the servos and they were actually really easy to do. I hope I did them right.

[CFRACR]

Yes They Are Easy!! I'M Glad You Like It!! :D I Did Say Easy & Tighter Set-up, And This Will Make The Boat Lighter.
Now All You Have To Do Is Take Her Out And Start Playing With Those Tabs Til You Get The Sweet Spot!! Let Me Know How It Goes For Ya. I'm Sure A Few Other People Would Like To Know As Well!!!

:)

[ejp]

Here is the finished product.

[CFRACR]

LOOKS GOOD EJP!!!! :cool: , I STILL SEE THE STOCK TANK THOUGH :( . I GUESS YOU WILL GET TO THAT IN TIME. WAIT TILL YOU RUN IT, YOU WILL BE HAPPY WITH THE RESULTS. (GET READY TO ADJUST THE TABS THOUGH) LONG AS YOUR LINKAGE MOVES FREELY, YOUR IN BUSINESS :D WHEN YOU SEE THE CHANGE BECAUSE OF WEIGHT LOSS, YOU WILL WANNA RIP THAT TANK OUTTA THERE QUICK :eek:

WELL, HERE'S ANOTHER SHOT OF MINE. SHOWS A GOOD VIEW OF TANK SET-UP.
YOU JUST NEED TO TAKE DOWN THE WOOD A BIT ON THE OLD TANK MOUNTS. A LITTLE IN THE FRONT, AND A BIT MORE IN THE BACK. THAT WAY IT SITS AT A SLIGHT ANGLE. ( THE CLUNK WILL DO THE REST ) GOTTA LOVE IT. :D :eek:

[CFRACR]

A SHOT OF THE TABS TOO!! I GRINDED THE LEADING EDGES, SNAP TURNS LIKE A S.O.A.B :D , ALL PRO BOAT MISS PUDS ARE LEFT IN THE ROOSTER AT THE TURNS :eek:

[BoatDoc]

here's a little tip for CF...it looks like you're nutz about making your hammer fast. so i'll let you in on a little secret, your rudder is slowing you down! what you want to do is move it to the opposite side of the mount. you'll have to drill a new hole for the linkage to go through but that's about it. you may have to use a cable/sleeve set-up instead of a rod, but i can't remember. try it, you'll notice a difference.

[BoatDoc]

oh yeah...i almost forgot to mention it! there's a few more things. as soon as you can, trash the stock pipe! get either a mac's or a miss crud pipe. also, another thing...try the rudder from a miss crud. you'll have to make a custom mount, but it will cut down on drag. i've got a few more tricks up my sleeve...but i can't give 'em to ya all at once! :D

[CFRACR]

Thanks For The Imput Boatdoc :) , I Will Say That The Rudder Is Not Making Alot Of Drag. I Grinded And Sanded It Down & Sharpened The Leading Edge. As For Moving It To The Other Side Of The Mount, Would'nt That Make It Turn Sharper To The Right And Wider On The Left?

As For The Pipe, Well Its Like This. I Am Really Trying To Mod This Boat And See How Many Mods I Can Do For Low Doe! I Am Sharing This With The Group Of Course Because It Seems As Though There Are A Lot Of Hammer Owners Out There And More On The Way!!! :cool:
I Don't Really Want To Spend Any Real Chunk Of Change On This Boat Because I Have Other Projects In The Works! (and A Baby Due In Two Months :) ) This Is My fun-easy Boat. I Think All The Mods That I Did Cost About 15.00 Tops. I Would Rather Put The Money In The Other Boats That I Am In Progress On, As Well As The Float Plane Im Working On. I Do Planes Too!! I Would Like To Get Down To Just 2 Planes & Two Boats! (wifes Hinting On That As Well ;) ;) )

But In Closing I Will Say This, If I Was Going To Put Some Cash In The Hammer, I Think I Would Put In A Bigger Engine. That Would Give Tons More Speed Than A Pipe. As For The Pipes I Would Go With The ( Os T-1020 ) Its Aluminum(so Lighter) And I Think It Would Work Better Than The mac Or miss Pud Pipes. It Does Cost More Than Double The Price Of A Mac, But I Already Have one Its On A Plane That I Have Not Crashed Yet. But Give Me Time!!!! :D

[BoatDoc]

ok...so it cost's all of nuthin' to switch the rudder to the other side of the mount. i sharpened mine and all of that good stuff...but it will still make a difference if it is offset. right hand ovals are how races are run...so that's how i think! as far as the pipe...the stock pipe is a piece of %&$!!!!!! but at the same time i understand your plight...you have a better half!! i have the luck of being single...so, in other words HOBBIES ARE KING!!!!!! whenever you get the chance...try a better pipe.

[CFRACR]

Thanks I May Just Do That. I Know The Pipe Is A Piece!!! I Will Do Something About That, Just Don't Really Wanna Buy Another Since I Have Them Already. Just In Use!!

[Watercadet]

Both the MAC's pipe and the Buddies pipe are Aluminum.
Adam

[CFRACR]

My Bad!! I Ment Polished Aluminum. It Is Lighter Than The Stock Hammer Pipe. I Don't Own A mac So I Cant Say. They Look To Be Very Close Though. The Mac Is Also Cheaper 25.00 Opposed To 65.00 For The Os.

Os-pic

[CFRACR]

Update: :)

I Have Tried Several Different Pipes The Mac & The Os.
Here's The Scoop!!

I Will Note That I Am Not Running The Stock Engine.
Both The Mac & The Os Made Little To No Difference Other Than Sound. I Did Nothing To The Boat Other Than Change The Pipes. I Made Many Runs With Each And Came Out With Equally Consistant Results. (radar Gun)

So.......... Basically In My Experement The Stock Pipe, Os & Mac Pipe Gave Me The Same To Near Same Performance. I Was Measuring Top Speed, And Acceleration From 1/2 To Open Throttle.
Other Than The Different Sounds That Each Produces, I Came Up With The Above Results.

[BoatDoc]

if you were using a radar gun, could you post some numbers?? i'm intested in just how fast you're going. i have no way of measuring speed. my hammer is faster than a bud, but slower than my prather vee. that's all i know! i haven't seen any hard numbers on a hammer yet and i'm kinda curious.

[CFRACR]

Boatdoc,

Well I Don't Have The Paper Handy That I Wrote All The Numbers On Ect. The Basics Were As Follows.........

Running In Smooth/glass Water:
33-35

Ripple To Small Chop:
I Got 32-38

So, I Basically Would Say 34mph, The Chop Has The Boat Out Of The Water So That Would Give A Higher Reading.

These Numbers Were The Same With Each Pipe. There Was Maybe A 1mph Variance Here And There. Since I Made Many-many Runs I Attribute The Variance To Condition At The Run.

[BoatDoc]

with numbers like that, when i finish the surface drive i'll be hoping to push this little hull over 40. i think i'm going to set my engine up for high end and sacrifice a bit of the low end. i rarely come off the throttle anyway. the boat tracks very well through the turns with the larger hardware on it. instead of buying the hardware, i think i'm just going to build it. i've already got the cable, all i need is a collet...the rest will be hand made. i'll need to find a way to get a clock on that boat after i get all the work done.

[CFRACR]

Sounds Good :) The Only Thing I Can Say Is I'm Not Sure If The hull Design Can Handle 40mph. You can Get The Speed, But Im Not Sure If It Will Be Controlable/driveable. If You Can Make It Work That Would Be A Acomplishment For Sure. I Think That The Threshold For The Hammer Boat Hull Is Around 35mph. Anything Over That And It Gets Really Hairy & All You Can Do Is Keep From Flipping. I Like To Stay High And Dry. :D

[BoatDoc]

i like to call it "over-powered self indulgence." if it wasn't for the weather i'd be driving to the hobby shop to buy the various tid-bits i need. i also found a way to hook the cable to the motor without having to buy a collet. i have some stuff around that i can make one from. once i get a chance to get it set up, i'll post the pics. it may take a few days though.

[Chris LaPanse]

Also, a surface drive should make it more stable/driveable at that crazy speed. I'd still race you with my Manta any time (except i'm too far away), but for just a little glass sport hull, that's pretty good.

[CFRACR]

Also, a surface drive should make it more stable/driveable at that crazy speed. I'd still race you with my Manta any time (except i'm too far away), but for just a little glass sport hull, that's pretty good.


WHAT?????

THERE IS NO QUESTION THAT SURFACE DRIVE CAN BE MORE STABLE & ADD SOME TOP SPEED. WHAT WAS BEING DISCUSSED IS THAT BOATS HAVE A TOP HULL SPEED! THE SCALE DESIGN OF THE BOAT HAS ALOT TO DO WITH WHAT CAN BE ACOMPLISHED OUT OF A HULL. I DON'T CARE WHAT SIZE OF ENGINE, SURFACE DRIVE OR NOT. IF THE HULL CAN'T HANDLE THE SPEED, THEN THE HULL CAN'T HANDLE THE SPEED!!!

[ejp]

Hey, cf. I put my radio box back in. The servos got soked. I ordered a tank though. The tank I ordered weighs .75oz.

[BoatDoc]

cf is right. there is a point where the hull can't really go any faster. well...they can...but not safely. the hull will eventually create too much lift and try to fly. but it's getting it to that point that makes it fun :D

[BurnZ]

Hey CF, you all are not doing an Indian raindance are you? Jeanne is on its way behind Ivan.

[CFRACR]

EJP- WELL SORRY TO HEAR THAT YOU DID NOT LIKE THE SET-UP. I HAVE BEEN RUNNING LIKE THAT FOR A GOOD WHILE WITH NO PROBLEMS. :) IF YOU SEALED THE SERVOS, YOU REALLY SHOULD NOT HAVE HAD ANY PROBLEMS. BUT ON THE OTHER HAND. I'M NOT NERVOUS ABOUT FRYING A SERVO BECAUSE I HAVE LOTS TO REPLACE WITH. :D

BOATDOC- YEAH I KNOW JUST WHAT YOU MEAN. I WISH THAT I COULD SQUEEZE MORE OUT OF THE HAMMER, BUT I THINK I AM ALREADY THERE. I MOSTLY RUN ABOUT 3/4 THROTTLE. I CAN GO FULL BUT GETS OUT OF THE WATER TO WHERE ITS JUST RIDING ON THE SHAFT KEEL & PROP. THIS MAKES IT VERY SQUIRRELY AND CAN'T KEEP IT OPENED UP FOR LONG. I AM WORKING ON SOME SPECIAL/CUSTOM TRIM TABS THAT MAY HELP. AS WELL AS A LITTLE WEIGHT IN THE CG AREA. IF I GET IT TO WORK, I WILL BE ABLE TO RUN FULL THROTTLE MORE, AND HOLD A HIGHER SPEED FOR LONGER. ITS LIKE YOU SAID, "it's getting it to that point that makes it fun " :D

BURNZ- :eek: NO RAINDANCE HERE. ACTUALLY WE SENT ALL OF IVANS WATER UP NORTH. :D I KNOW THIS IS THE CRAZIEST HURRICANE SEASON THAT I HAVE EVER EXPERIENCED/HEARD OF!!! JEANE IS PLAYING GAMES A BIT, SHE DOESN'T SEEM TO KNOW WHERE SHE WANTS TO GO. KARL IS ON HER TAIL, SO MAYBE HE WILL BE A BIT MORE OBVIOUS. :eek:

[BurnZ]

Ya' we're supposed to have rain through Tuesday. Floodin' a wee bit, but nuttin' like you have gotten though!

[BurnZ]

If you want to see something pushed way beyond its limits click on the gecko vid with a .12 installed. This is a neat little boat. The electric one jumps across the water. The Iceburg brushless at the bottom is awesome also.
http://www.mhzusa.com/xtdoc/video.aspx

[CFRACR]

Tis Good Vids :d

[Chris LaPanse]

What i'm saying is that a surface drive gets rid of the downward angle on the prop, therefore, making it more stable at any given speed. It is also more efficient, giving you more speed. Therefore, it is faster and more stable (why do you think all the race boats use one)

[Hydro Junkie]

Which race boats are you refering to? There are many different kinds of raceboats.

[Chris LaPanse]

full size or rc, hydros, cats, monos, tunnels, basically all of them use surface drive.

[Hydro Junkie]

No they don't. An offshore mono uses an outdrive per engine, the tunnel uses an outboard. Neither use a surface drive. Can't say on the cat, as they are used for offshore racing. Only the inboard hydro's use a true surface drive, which is why they're the only boats to throw a true roostertail. They are also the only proprider's.

[Watercadet]

HJ those you mentioned are surface piercing. Maybe not what you'd call surface drive but they do pierce the surface of the water. They don't throw tails because of the cav. plate. On most Mercury drives the exhaust exits the center of the prop hub and, when on step you can hear the exhaust note change. My MerCruiser on my 21' Maxum is a surface piercer.
Adam

[Chris LaPanse]

Yes. I was just watching some offshore racing the other day, and they talked about the monos having a surface piercing prop, and don't tell me that only the hydros throw a true roostertail. The offshore cats were throwing up good sized roostertails too. They may not ride soley on the prop in the back, but if that is the definition of a surface drive, then I guess my enforcer with a spdIII drive really doesn't have a surface drive. A surface drive is more stable at higher speeds than a submerged drive.

[CFRACR]

All The Mods Work Great On This Little Boat. The Fuel Tank Exchange Is The Most Important I Think. I Will Also Say That Raising The Rudder Bracket Up Is Also Important. Mine Was To Low As Well As Two Others That I Have Come Across. The Water Hits The Bracket And Causes Drag & Distorts The Rooster Tail. Looks More Like A Seadoo. :D

[BurnZ]

Hey CF, I was messing with my boat putting in the new tank in and noticed it would fit between the rails and almost had enough room to fit between the radio box and the flywheel thereby lowering the CG. I was looking back over you boat and noticed you had removed the box altogether. You could move the tray back 1/4" and fit your tank lower in the hull. This would help with the handling wouldn't it? Chris

[CFRACR]

Hey CF, I was messing with my boat putting in the new tank in and noticed it would fit between the rails and almost had enough room to fit between the radio box and the flywheel thereby lowering the CG. I was looking back over you boat and noticed you had removed the box altogether. You could move the tray back 1/4" and fit your tank lower in the hull. This would help with the handling wouldn't it? Chris


Lower yes I did that,(took down the stringers to lower the fuel tank & create a slight down angle for the clunk) Move back no, the CG was right on from the start so not going to move it more to the rear. That can cause a whole new set of problems to fix. IE: bow higher > lower stern > more drag in rear, for one.