DuraTrax Warhead 1/8 Scale RTR Monster Truck

[StevePond]

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/duratrax/dtxd68xx.jpg

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/duratrax/dtxd68xx_chassis.jpg

As impressive as previous monsters have been, drivers have found weaknesses: limited adjustability, difficult maintenance, and a tendency to roll over in fast turns. DuraTrax is taking dead aim at these drawbacks, and more, with the unveiling of the Warhead 1/8 scale 4WD nitro RTR! It's a truly aggressive approach to monster truck design, because the Warhead excels at racing AND tackles tough off-road action better than any competitor...it's two top-of-the-line trucks in one! With its unique features, options as standard equipment, and combination of insane speeds and unstoppable power, the Warhead declares war on the monster truck competition!

An incredibly high true drive overclearance!
A whopping 3.75 inches from the ground to the skidplates, so it can go where others can't.

The most stable high-speed handling!
Thanks to its super-low CG, the Warhead stays put through full-throttle turns where other monsters roll over, and the ground clearance can be dropped to just 1.6" for maximum racing performance.

The ultimate in accessibility!
The Warhead's modular design allows entire component sections to be removed easily, making it much more maintenance-friendly.

The greatest potential for driver adjustability!
More than any truck on the market, the Warhead offers fine-tuning for any kind of track and terrain, including:
*Four roll center options
*30 different combinations of individual shock mounting
positions
*Adjustable camber links
*Adjustable front and rear toe-in; infinite for the front; 2°
or 3° for the back
*Adjustable steering Ackerman
*Adjustable body mounts
*2-speed transmission with adjustable shift point
*Adjustable slipper clutch

The flexibility to use a starter box!
For drivers who prefer using a starter box (a real plus for racing), the Warhead chassis is designed to be flywheel-accessible.

A large capacity (250cc) fuel tank means long run times.
The sealed radio box protects the factory-installed receiver and radio battery. The SX200 steering servo produces 124 oz-in of torque * nearly 40% more than the best stock servo in other trucks. Pre-mounted and glued, the tires also come with foam inserts installed, and the chrome wheels are T-Maxx/Savage compatible.
Eight metal Rapid-Tune* oil-filled shocks offer superior dampening, and they're adjustable. Aluminum roll bar protects the engine and fuel tank, and doubles as a carrying handle and pull-start "grip". Unlike the plastic pipes found on other popular monster trucks, the Warhead's tuned pipe is made of aluminum.

Dual composite disk brakes provide reliable, responsive stopping power.

An adjustable slipper clutch controls wheelspin and helps prevent gear damage.

CV (Constant Velocity) driveshafts reduce friction and cut backlash, for more power
to the wheels.


Check out these top-notch components!

A powerful .27 engine by SuperTigre©
This "big block" beast produces a massive 2.5 horsepower, and features a machined aluminum heat sink head, ABC construction, a metal carb and dual ball bearings.

A DuraTrax 3-channel pistol grip radio made by Futaba© A 2-position switch on the top of the transmitter allows for quick and easy shifting between forward and reverse on the radio's third channel. Modelers also get throttle and steering fine trims, an LED battery status indicator and more.

The patent-pending reverse mechanism on the 2-speed Posi-Shift* transmission requires no reversing clutch, and boasts steel reversing gears and a positive lock with no slipping.

The diff gears, bevel gears, drive pinion and ring gear are all made of durable metal.

Complete (22) ball bearings!

A DVD is included with helpful tips on engine tuning and preparing the Warhead for off-roading.

* Length: 22.375 in (568.3mm)
* Width (w/suspension arms level): 17.5 in (444.5mm)
* Height (w/body): 10.5 in (266.7mm)
* Wheelbase: 14.375 in (365mm)
* Front/Rear Track: 14.0 in (355.6mm)
* Ground Clearance (fully extended): 3.75 in (91.4mm)
* Weight: 11.9 lb (5.4kg)
* Requires: 12 "AA" alkaline batteries for the radio; glow starter; glow fuel (20% Red Alert nitro recommended)


The trim scheme on the rugged polycarbonate body is available in six different colors, and ready for the included decals to be applied.
DTXD6862 Green
DTXD6864 Blue
DTXD6868 Red
DTXD6870 Yellow
DTXD6872 White
DTXD6874 Purple

DTXD68** Warhead 4WD Nitro Monster Truck RTR
Retail $699.99
Street 419.99

DUE IN STOCK EARLY NOVEMBER

[evaderstman]

sounds sweet can't wait to see pics

[minimole]

I seriousl think that Duratrax need to get someone else to think of thier names of thier cars, i mean, what on eath is 'quake' and 'warhead' all about.

lol

Duane :D :D

[ExtremeDuty]

I seriousl think that Duratrax need to get someone else to think of thier names of thier cars, i mean, what on eath is 'quake' and 'warhead' all about.

lol

Duane :D :D


I agree with you but Warhead isn't that bad.
I want to be their product naming 'engineer' :D .

How about "Toxic Waste" ? LoL~~~ Sounds very mean and dangerous to me.

[NitroBoy24]

Reminds me a lot of the Savage..

But any way you put Duratrax has "turned" around their company and are putting out some nice looking stuff for a change..

[thunderbt3]

they probably got a kick in the right direction when easton was on thier staff for a bit

[nitro13]

looks good a little like the savage but that engine looks really low in the chasie for a low cg

[Bansheeman]

The body really sucks, but other then that, it looks kickin! The price is even good, but I don't think that enough people will race it, to really let the truck prove it self...

[munim]

OH MY! Look at that ground clearance! Pretty crazy, and the name is badass.

[Jetskiboy77]

I think the truck looks good and hopefully this truck will prove to people that Duratrax isnt half as bad as they seem. And with the copy cat statement, look at all the touring cars and buggies they all have the same basic design, if it works then other companies will copy it and add their own little twist to it instead of using the money to design someting brand new and different, that people may not buy because its different from whats been proven.

[Maxxcrazy]

IROK's!!!!!!

Steve, do you know how big the tires are? What copmpound are they?

[maxxamillion]

I like the looks of this new truck, and really like the name. And bump start compatible.
But I am sick of eight shock trucks!
Lets see some burly buggy or Savage style shocks on some of these trucks-in FOUR count!

[MegaMe]

is that a rebadged raptor or something else?

[Tamiya4ever]

they probably got a kick in the right direction when easton was on thier staff for a bit

So he is not there anymore? What happened? :confused:

[Nitro 4 me]

So if someone dosen't like your post they have it removed? Is that how it works here? I thought a forum is a place to openly talk about things like the products and who makes them?

[Kmot]

This truck looks awesome. And the name is sick! I like it! :D

[kitty]

is that a rebadged raptor or something else?
That was my first thought until I read the description. Like the Raptor, I do see similarities - front bumper from the Savage (not directly, but same style), skid by Traxxas, TVP design. However, I have not seen anything about the Raptor being able to be started using a bump starter, and the engine is different. I've not seen mention of lower CG design or shock and body mount adjustability on the Raptor, but those are features listed on this new entry by Duratrax. The more I think about it, the more I think it's their own design. Duratrax is good at copying bits and pieces of other vehicles. I don't see anything wrong with that.

One thing that makes me wonder is this:
"The diff gears, bevel gears, drive pinion and ring gear are all made of durable metal." The word durable is subjective. A lot of us are familiar with the diff gear issue with the Savage, so maybe Duratrax has come up with better alloys for their gears. HPI has been negligent in addressing the issue with the spider gears in the Savage diffs being of different quality materials and having differences in the teeth on the gears, even from package to package.

I'm looking forward to seeing some reviews on this one. It'll be nice to see what happens when Steve and the staff at RCCA get their hands on one to put it through its paces and see if it cuts the muster.

So if someone dosen't like your post they have it removed?
I didn't see your post, but if it was just talking trash, that's probably why it was removed.

[metalry101]

Sweeeeeeeeeeeet...can't wait to get one of these babies into the shop! I might have to claim the first one that comes in and try it out...we shall see...we shall see...

[TNX]

The T-Maxx spawned the Terra Crusher, MGT, MegaFlop......err...force, TNX as trucks with similar but not clone type desgins. Only seems fair that the Savage has spawned the Raptor and now the Warhead. Ohhhhhhhh, WARHEAD! Yeah, no matter how you package that it sounds kinda silly like the Quake names. However, this looks to be a fun truck with all of the adjustability. I like the dropping to 1.6" for racing, I have to use fuel tubing to get that low on my TNX.

[ND4SPDR]

Um, it's a Savage.

[DaShogun]

Savage clone to me.

[-=ADA$=-]

its not T-maxx that started the spree, it was USA-1 rather

[BALISTC]

Even the suspension arms look kinda like a Savage!!

[JDAWG53]

You guys haven't even seen it with the body off yet and you are already labeling it as a "clone". How about some body off pics Steve?

[TNX]

ADA, I meant that the T-maxx saw some T-maxx 'like' trucks, not that the maxx was first. We could say that the USA 1 was the father of the Storm Unlimited, the Monster Pirate/Dominator, The Quake Brothers, etc...

[TNX]

For all of the people who are obsessed with calling stuff "clones"

Why not also say that those are Sportmaxx rims, and Losi tires? :)

I think it's cool that Duratrax is moving away from just selling to newbies and wanting to play with the big dogs. Tamiya did it with the TNX, why can't the big D play too?

[Hard Core RC Guy]

I agree with TNX, product get better because competition increases. If there was only one monster truck...no competition. We should be all happy whenever a new product challenges the rest. It keep innovations and improvements happening. And in the MT arena, it's a hot commodity to be the fastest, biggest, or most adaptive. This one looks to be a step in the right direction for Duratrax since the Quake. We shall see, and clone or no clone the others should think they have done something right when another company thinks along the same line.

Keep them coming Duratrax!

J :cool:

[JDAWG53]

TNX
You have to be kidding me comparing the Warhead tires to Losi and the wheels to Traxxas. I think you need to look a little closer at them and you will see very few similarities.

[metalry101]

At first glance they are quite similiar to the Losi Tires (minus some detail...but the tread shape and hollowness is somewhat remniscent of the Zombie's).
However...Maxxcrazy was dead on when he said IROKS!!!! Get Project Twin in here and he'll tell u those tires look like IROK's...and he'd know, he runs 'em on his Tracker.

Check out this sexiness...
http://www.intercotire.com/IROK2-600.jpg

[TNX]

I was mostly being sarcastic. But, the rims do look like sportraxx a bit. And yes, teh Zombie is what tire I was referring too. Lighten up guys.

[dmckie]

Who cares about clones anyways. A good truck is a good truck .and a bad truck is a bad truck.I will save my comments until I see it with the body removed. or until I have one in my hands. :)

[2.0dohc]

does the "stress tech" waranty thing count on this?

[kitty]

does the "stress tech" waranty thing count on this?
I'm sure it will. I have yet to see a vehicle offered by them that doesn't have at least six months' stress tech warranty.

[fawkes23]

Well, since you guys brough *** up, the Savage wasn;t even the first to use TVP's. It was either the Mad Force, or the Mad Armor, something like that from Kyosho....

[StevePond]

Chassis picture added. ;)

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks for the new image, Steve. The truck looks pretty good, and its good that more monster trucks are comming because it keeps everyone on their toes and gives us more to choose from.

[Toyotatogo]

That's is it I'm buying a big truck come chrismas time... :mad: They just look to cool now, and I cannot hold back any longer.

[Jetskiboy77]

lol Toyotatogo has fallen victim to the monster truck disease, and I am afraid the only cure is a really big truck.

[kitty]

Follow-up on the warranty question by 2.0dohc:

I just received my 2005 Tower Hobbies catalogue. There's a two-page layout for the Warhammer on pp214-215. It says it comes with a one-year Stress-Tech guarantee. Pretty good!

I'd like to see how this baby performs and how durable it is when it comes out. I'm really liking it so far.

[jjmag26]

I have had 2 bad experiences with duratrax in the past, but I have to say they might be turning around this truck looks pretty good. I just wish it came in kit form because I think that's where alot of their problems are in the factory assembly. If they would do a kit sign me up. Just my opinion.

[Quinton]

I think it looks like a nice and tough truck. If I were in the market for a new truck it would be the Warhead or the TNX as of now. The TNX looks REAL nice in ppls vids so I would have to lean that way until I/we can see some real footage of the Warhead. That 3.0 really makes that big truck move. No matter how good a truck is, it's tough to buy it if it doesn't have all kinds of hop-ups and aftermarket companies making everything you could ever want for it. Guess that's why I still really like the Maxx; parts-a-plethora.

[monyet fangkeh]

from the pic....it looks pretty good. wonder when its gonna arrive in down under.:D

[alkyula]

so what if it looks somewhat (only in the TVP desighn really) similar to the savage? the savage is a good desighn. take a look at 1/8 scale buggys.....there are ALOT of them on the market..and alot of them in developement. but you know what? all of them have the same basic desighn. yeah here and there they have diffrent setups for suspension and steering....but all 1/8 buggies use the same flat panel chassis setup. to an untrained eye (someone who has never seen an real r/c before) an kyosho mp777 will look no diffrent than an ofna mbx. and yet i never hear of anyone complaining that a new buggy looks like another buggy...i feel as though this should apply to the new MT's coming out..its the small technical details that matter (good diffs/drivetrain, suspension, durability) not the overall desighn look.

[Josh89]

All I can say is... WOW...

[NitroTXT1]

looks like a savage but motor seems to sit lower and fuel tank is mounted inward so no need to spend cash on fuel tank protector...and if the motor sits lower='s lower cg which means better overall handling...nice

[fezzy]

My concern with this design is this, The Savage is an absolute nightmare to work on, And with this they have enclosed things even more. If I had one I would not look forward to maintainence or cleaning the thing.

[MaxxGT23]

I'm gonna give Duratrax a big "cheers"! The Warhead looks awesome and I think it will be the best r/c Duratrax has came out with yet. Its got awesome specs and the name Warhead is badass. The only thing I am worrying about is durability, since the duratrax vehicles I have owned before weren't the toughest. But, I think the Warhead is gonna be way sweet. Once again, I love the fact that Duratrax is comin out with a MT that appears to be just as awesome as all the major MT contenders and the Warhead will put its other monsters to shame. RIP Thunderquake!

[Tamiya4ever]

Here are both trucks. http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/savage_25/832chas2.jpg

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/duratrax/dtxd68xx_chassis.jpg

[Jarek]

Buyin' it! Scape the pipe and the servoes. that piece of **** body too! no where close to a Savage the chassis plates are bent and angled. anyway mad force and early trucks started the twin verticle plate design.

[MaxxGT23]

Each time I look at the Warhead I like it more and more. The stress tech warranty is a joke though. I had a Duratrax Nitro Evader and everypart that I broke was a part that wasn't inlcuded in the warranty. And if it was on the list, you would have to send the part in and it would take about 4 weeks to get it back. But, I am in no means bashing the Warhead. It is definitly the best looking R/C Duratrax has made.

[Quinton]

Any vids of this sucker out yet?

[StevePond]

I haven't seen one yet.

[Quinton]

Thanks man.

I am kinda thinkin about getting one of these or a Savage. I don't want to get a Savage if they are getting ready to release a new version though (which I have heard they may in the near future), but I would like to get a Savage with the 3 spd coming out for it. And I don't want to be one of the 1st owners of a warhead with new problems (look at the genesis). Don't hear a thing about it anymore.

Hmm? Decisions.

[2.0dohc]

check this out www.warheadmt.com

[bullaculla]

check this out www.warheadmt.com

DAMN! thats a nice site!
I love the modular design and the metal gear diffs.
body looks like ass tho :D

The front and rear sections look exactly the same.
http://www.warheadmt.com/images/modular-design-lg.jpg

[alkyula]

i really like how low the engine sits, plus you can use a starter box. looks like you will never scratch your cooling head with that setup, something i do to all my engines in any r/c i run!

[CooLJoE8]

Looks like a good truck.

However, I see an immediate need for an aluminum part. That being the bulks. I can see the bulks being broken right where they mount to the chassis plates with the 3 screws.

[ScMc]

Aaahhh CooLJoe... feels good to see that name on a forum again:) Where are all the other old school maxxtraxxers? What happened to Bohica? Dirtbros just freakin' dissapeared one day... TRXboy, havent seen him in ages... Rasher?? Geronimax fell off the face of the planet... Where the heck did BigWorm85 go??? How about GOB or VegasRacer or the guy from Arizona with the Arizona flag bodies on his trucks???
I'm about to file some missing person complaints if these people dont show up soon...

Anyways, the Warhead looks pretty nice, I REALLY like how you can see the driveshafts from just looking down on the truck, kinda reminds me of a 1/8 scale buggy drivetrain... Guess I'll have to wait it out before i jump on the Revo band-wagon!

[ScMc]

http://www.warheadmt.com/gallery/dtxd68-g-insete-2.jpg

This thing looks pretty solid guys!! Check out the Drive shafts!

[fezzy]

It does look good, Alot better than some of the crap I have seen released lately *Cough* Nitro Spyder *Cough*. I will however stick to my original statement, It looks like the hardest truck to work on I have ever seen.

[ScMc]

Thing again... Check out the bottom half of this page...

http://warheadmt.com/dtxd68-chassis-2.html#modular

[alkyula]

hey check it out the diffs have 4-spider config in that cad cutaway, nice right there. and the tranny actually sits lower than the diffs almost. alot of people dont like working on savages, i personaly like working on the truck more than my maxx. im realy diggin this truck.

[CooLJoE8]

The tranny being lower than the diffs is going to upset some people. That right there sets it apart from the other MTs. Maxx, Savage, MGT, LST, etc. all have the tranny higher than the diffs which gives them better center ground clearance. Kind of puts this one between MTs and Truggies. Its still setup like an MT, but has more of a truggy drivetrain setup (aside from center tranny).

[2.0dohc]

the lower the cg the better it can handle,I like the way the chassis is laid out, I could care less if the middle of my truck is a foot off the ground, if the diff is only 3" up

[alkyula]

i agree about the middle ground clearance. my 1/8 buggies can go 99% of the places my savage can go, and they have about 1.5" of middle ground clearance. i guess buyers seeing that huge height really helps though.

[ChumsGum]

Wow, only $399!!!

[holeshotkid]

why do you guys hate the body so much? its just a late model pickup, or is the paint :confused:

[Josh89]

That truck looks cool...

[TC4RACER]

nice. cant wait 4 the reviews :D :D :D

[sledgehammerman]

hey guys. I like the aluminum body shocks and the plastic shock shaft protectors

[guver]

those look like evader shocks heh?

I've used evst shocks on my e-maxx

[2.0dohc]

to long and big in diameter for evader shocks, same style though

[rckid11]

Looks pretty heavy for some reason....and kinda chunky like.....The savage looks alot more organized.

[Terry]

Looks pretty heavy for some reason....and kinda chunky like.....The savage looks alot more organized.

"chunky" ?

[JDAWG53]

I think your thinking "chunky" because the side plates on the WarHead bow out and the Savage are straight. They bow out because the fuel tank isnt hanging off the side of the chassis. I would much rather have my fuel tank protected inside the chassis than have it hanging off the side where it could get punctured or torn off.
As far as the layout, look at the side view with the side plate off. All of the components are very low in the chassis giving it a much better cg than the Savage. I think Duratrax is trying to appeal to the race market as well as the back yard basher.

[MTA4]

The thing about this truck is the side plates are just chassis braces, where as the Savage side plates ARE the chassis. STop comparing the two as they could not be more different.

[raptorridr660r]

The sides are the chassis just like a savage, look at the earlier link and it shows the bottom as being a full lenth chassis skid plate!!!!

[MTA4]

No, the warhead's chassis is a flat pan, with side plates that connect and brace everything.

The Savage side plate are the chassis, there is no bottom plate.

Your reply actually contradicts yourself.

[raptorridr660r]

http://warheadmt.com/dtxd68-chassis-2.html#modular
says right there that the bottom is just a skid plate, and I have a savage, they are similar! Show me this flat pan that you are talking about....
"with side plates that connect and brace everything" and correct me if I am wrong, but that is what a chassis is.....
One more... I am sure you can drive it fine without the bottom skid plates, but take off the side plates (CHASSIS) and it will go no where!

[MTA4]

Settle down.

[munim]

Wow this truck looks excellent. When is it coming out? or is it out?

[thedarkness]

Raptor660(nice quad) You cannot drive it anywhere without the bottom chassis because thats what the engine attaches to.Its the same as the engine mount plate in the savage except it runs the lenght of the chassis and is at the lowest point of the chassis(2 great ideas).look at this
http://www.warheadmt.com/gallery/dtxd68-g-insete-2.jpg
It has a bare configuration close to a 1/8 buggy but the bottom chassis being so thin and not havinng chassis braces needs tvps to support the whole chassis.Without either of the two the truck is going nowhere-fast.

[JDAWG53]

Guys
The bottom skid plates are just that, skid plates. You can remove them and still run the truck, however I wouldn't becasue the protect the fuel tank, flywheel etc. The aluminum side plates are the main chassis.

[Cain]

So is this out yet? If so, anyone got some driving reviews?

I wonder if duratrax will be making a new 1/8 buggy any time soon?

[raptorridr660r]

Nope, not out yet, I wonder why it keeps getting pushed back.
The engine does not mount to the bottom pan, it mounts to the side plates just like a savage, just lower, go to the warhead website again and look at the underside pic, the only screws on it are the ones holding it to the chassis aka side plates! I also can tell you that it is nothing like an 8th scale buggy.... I have a savage and a hot bodies lightning pro 2 and this truck is very close to the savage and nothing like the buggy period!

[performula]

Has anyone purchased and run this truck yet?

Is the scale large like the TNX, LST, and MGT? Or smaller similar to the TMaxx and Savage?

[Scooby_WRX]

Still not out yet performula. I believe the date is currently set for late June. The truck appears to be Savage size.

[twisted]

late june,gotta be kidding me.....

[microrcdude]

Something tells me that this truck has race winning potential. Just look at how low the CG is.

[RCRevolution]

I seriousl think that Duratrax need to get someone else to think of thier names of thier cars, i mean, what on eath is 'quake' and 'warhead' all about.

lol

Duane :D :D


its better then Revo, or Jato.

[maxxamillion]

The Warhead has got to be the most delayed rc out there.
Must have some serious 'issues'.
Hopefully it will be really good WHEN it does comes out.
Sure glad I didn't have money down(or on waiting list) expecting to own one anytime soon.

[kurrz]

I think they're playing it safe by pushing back the release because of the recent mini quake fiasco. If you own one you know what im talking about. Also the dimensions listed make it sound like MGT,TNX,and LST sized.

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

The Warhead has got to be the most delayed rc out there.
Must have some serious 'issues'.
Hopefully it will be really good WHEN it does comes out.
Sure glad I didn't have money down(or on waiting list) expecting to own one anytime soon.

The Genisis and MGT had many & much longer delays

[nitrothugg]

I think they're playing it safe by pushing back the release because of the recent mini quake fiasco. If you own one you know what im talking about. Also the dimensions listed make it sound like MGT,TNX,and LST sized.

i dont own one, whats up with the mini quake?
:confused:

[kurrz]

Well when it came out the esc was supposed to have forward, rev, and brake but, no brakes and then DTX claimed it was a misprint after RCCA reveiwed it and said how great the brakes were. The outdrives snapped with any real use and most parts were pretty weak. I also had a bad esc that went twice as fast in rev. as forward sent it back and it took 6 weeks to get it back. And i called there tech support and told them i had a bad reciever and they were going to "send that right out to me" I never got it still dealing with ten feet of range til i upgrade the radio. So i dont have high expectations for this truck or much else of DTX's stuff. My 2 cents

[luvnitro]

I would like someone's expert opinion on monster trucks. Having looked at this truck (the chassis, how it is built, etc.) do you think this will be a good truck and will hold up compared to some of the others that are out? I think the reason the release date has been set back several times is that they are probably working out problems they have found on it (hopefully). Someone give me and others your best opinion on what you think about it. Thanks.

[Quinton]

luvnitro - I would just get the .28 savage kit. the savage has been around for awhile and the new kit has all the needed upgrades!

[rckid11]

Yes, I do not trust Duratrax. This truck does not look at all well designed to me. Why do people think it has race potential? To me it looks very heavy, bulky. Also the alunimum side place look like they will just bend. I don't trust Duratrax now, and I probably never will.

[luvnitro]

Now the release date for this truck has been changed to late August. What is going on with Duratrax?

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Its like the TQ all over again. If there are issues they are trying to fix dont be the one to get a first run truck. The reson, the consumers are the ones that really test the product. We are harder on them than what they test them.
Like LST, Losi tested and tested it out yet the public sure enouch found weaknesses in it so Losi redid the weak parts. Same too Savage, Tmaxx,EK4 and others.

[twisted]

same with all rc trucks/cars.

[ccs77]

My friend just picked up his new Duratrax Warhead. It broke upon break in. It stripped the plastic final drive gear while idling? Apparently the slipper clutch was not doing it's job and it appears the manufacturer tightned it down to much. This was sold as a RTR kit from Duratrax. :( :mad:

Savage 2.5 here I come.

[Scooby_WRX]

My friend just picked up his new Duratrax Warhead. It broke upon break in. It stripped the plastic final drive gear while idling? Apparently the slipper clutch was not doing it's job and it appears the manufacturer tightned it down to much. This was sold as a RTR kit from Duratrax. :( :mad:

Savage 2.5 here I come.

Stripped during idle? From being overtightened? Now, the slipper setting at idle would not kill a spur if it was too tight. No chance... Now, if the gear mesh was TOO tight, at idle, then you could damage it. But that would be an AWFULLY tight mesh setting. Sorry about the bad luck, but these are some things to check before running any of todays RTR's.

[ccs77]

Truck is at the place of purchase awaiting new part, owner is doing the install and will diagnose the problem then. I'll keep you guys posted cause I know this was a highly anticipated release.

It looked as though the metal gear wore a section of the plastic spur away...more like melted it??

[Scooby_WRX]

Truck is at the place of purchase awaiting new part, owner is doing the install and will diagnose the problem then. I'll keep you guys posted cause I know this was a highly anticipated release.

It looked as though the metal gear wore a section of the plastic spur away...more like melted it??

Ouch... What yer describing actually sounds more like the gear stripped, from the mesh being too far apart. When that happens, it'll look like you lost the ends of the teeth on the gear. Keep us posted. Alot of people interested in this truck.

[turtok187]

@ccs77: where did he get his Warhead? I ordered one at TH (in june! :)) and can't wait for it! :D
I'll do a special website, dedicated to my experience with the Warhead!

[zakerid]

My friend just picked up his new Duratrax Warhead. It broke upon break in. It stripped the plastic final drive gear while idling? Apparently the slipper clutch was not doing it's job and it appears the manufacturer tightned it down to much. This was sold as a RTR kit from Duratrax. :( :mad:

Savage 2.5 here I come.
the very sme thing happened to my SAVAGE on its first run...

[JDAWG53]

If the idle was set too high and the clutch shoes were trying to engage, it would heat up the clutch bell and transfer that heat to the spur gear. If it sat for a while then was accelerated it could cause the spur to strip. This will happen on just about any car that has a plastic spur.

[elite]

Havent notidced any slipper problems aside that its somewhat picky......it seems like it has to be tight to get the truck to not slip and come to life - prob due to the big block poper perhaps, but I have been adjusting alot to get it just right. Good call on the engaging clutch and heat transfer though....

[RCCARTMAN]

Great Planes sent one to my store as a sneak preview and I am not sure anyone will buy it. The best selling point most new enthusiasts is the 1 yr stress warranty.

[turtok187]

Great Planes sent one to my store as a sneak preview and I am not sure anyone will buy it. The best selling point most new enthusiasts is the 1 yr stress warranty.

aaand the possibility to start with a startbox.. :rolleyes:
I cant wait for it.. :)

[JDAWG53]

One of my favorite things about the truck is that I can start it with a standard starter box. For racing I replaced my engine with an O.S. .21 Vspec which doesn't come with a recoil. You wouldn't be able to do this with alot of the other monster trucks on the market. You also don't have to buy a special starter box like the Revo.

[ccs77]

For racing? I thought the Warhead was deemed illegal due to the motor being level with the skid plate like a truggy.

[JDAWG53]

Illegal? It has to fall into some category. The motor is not level with the skid plate. It is above it but only enough to get the flywheel from hitting the ground. By ROAR rules the engine sits too low to be in the production monster truck class, it has to run in unlimited. But, most tracks will over look this since the rest of the truck is in compliance. It is silly to make a monster truck run with the truggies simply because the engine sits low. I understand why they made the rule but I think it needs to be ammended so the WarHead is not put in the wrong class. The truck was finished before the rule. If it had been made after the rule then I would say too bad for DuraTrax. ROAR should do their homework better.

[ccs77]

Oh I agree... When would you consider the Warhead as done though? When it hit the market or when research and development teams where racing them?

Either way I'm sure if there are enough of them showing up to race they will amend the rule. Organizations need entries and making Warheads race with Truggies would be short lived as Warhead owners would lose intrest...and that wouldn't be good for anyone.

I wonder how many will turn up though, LHS's aren't exactly stocking up with them.

[zakerid]

Oh I agree... When would you consider the Warhead as done though? When it hit the market or when research and development teams where racing them?

Either way I'm sure if there are enough of them showing up to race they will amend the rule. Organizations need entries and making Warheads race with Truggies would be short lived as Warhead owners would lose intrest...and that wouldn't be good for anyone.

I wonder how many will turn up though, LHS's aren't exactly stocking up with them.
what is up with the negativity towards this truck? sure we had to wait a year for it but it has barley been out for a week. lets give it some time and see how it does.

[RCCARTMAN]

Everyone has preferences, for instance in my store I refuse to stock Revo's because many of them I had in had several problems, of course Traxxas took care of the product replacement, but the down time for new enthusiasts makes me as a shop owner look like a jerk. But if someone wants one of the trucks I order it in for them and explain that my experience is the basis for my opinion, that doesn't mean it wont be suited for someone else. I used to hate when I would take my new vehicle into a shop and they would tell me "thats a piece of crap". Every vehicle has pros and cons. Some more pros or cons than others.

[ccs77]

I'm skeptical is all, heck if my friend's performs well after he gets it broke in I'll own one.

[zakerid]

I used to hate when I would take my new vehicle into a shop and they would tell me "thats a piece of crap".
I hate when people do that... when it has happened to me, i just took my business elsewhere.

[RCCARTMAN]

That attitude made me decide to open my own shop. I try to be as positive as posibble about everyones vehicle. My big problem is people buying used vehicles, because they usually get vehicles in poor condition and newbies should stay away from used r/c's

[JDAWG53]

ccs77
The way I see it, is if their R&D guys are racing them then the design is close to being finished, maybe a few fine adjustments. Something like changing the height of the engine would completely change the design/layout of the truck.

The first shipment went out and they are currently on back order. Once DuraTrax receives more trucks, I think you will start seeing more in the LHS's.

[ccs77]

Once Duratrax recieves more trucks? I thought Duratrax was MAKING the trucks? Alot of online shops are still saying late December for shipment.

[RCCARTMAN]

Once Duratrax recieves more trucks? I thought Duratrax was MAKING the trucks? Alot of online shops are still saying late December for shipment.
I have one left at my store... just one though. call 717-530-5200 if you need one shipped to be there for the holiday

[ccs77]

I bought a savage last night....I hope I don't regret it. The Warhead sure has alot of neat bells and whistles. :confused:

[Quinton]

Which Savage model did you get? You won't regret it. The Savage is tough as nails and can be pretty dang fast too. Not to mention, LOTS of AM support.
Email me if you have any questions about it.
quinton4@cox.net

[RCCARTMAN]

I have an all aluminum Savage, and now I wish the Genesis and Nemesis were available before I started Hopping the Savage up.

[JDAWG53]

ccs77
As most things in things in this category, the truck is not manufactured in the US. They are waiting on the shipment from their manufacturing plant. Should be here in time for Christmas.

The Savage is a good truck, but I really dont like the fuel tank, and how high the engine sits in the chassis. This has a negative affect on how the truck handles.

[turtok187]

hmm.. would hear a small story about warhead?
I'm really upset! My backorder (since june 2005) status changed from "Late Dec" to "On Order"! :(
Thank you Duratrax and Towerhobbies, you know how to make your customers feel like the unimportant, frivolous person ever.
I would cancel the backorder, but its no more possible, and in an addition, I was completely nuts to order spare parts for 300$ (already delivered!) for that car which is not available!
Sorry for spamming you, but I hope some of the responsibles, who reads this, feels guilty!

[turtok187]

UPDATE:
Someone of you heard my Help and informed TH! :)
A few minutes ago I received a phonecall from the TH Servicecenter, she was very kind and told me that the Warhead is now in stock and they will ship all outstanding backorders soon!
I really appreciate that, because I'm from switzerland and the phonecall was surely not cheap!
My problem was, I misunderstood the Stock Status "On Order" (see below), I thought they did not receive any items into their Warehouse and even got no date!

The quintessence:
I'm now the lucky guy which will receive "my" Warhead in a few days! :D

Quote from Stock Status:
On Order: Product has been ordered from the manufacturer, but the manufacturer has not yet provided a date in which we should receive stock. We can accept back orders on these items.

UPDATE 2: TH Services informed me that the "On Order" designation was indeed a mistake because the next shipment did not have a date on the system. Thea are working on this.

As I already said: TH has all Backorders shipped and the Warhead is not delayed again!

[Remedy1]

Looks like it's now in stock (http://www.towerhobbies.com/promos/e-mails/emaillogo-dec-warhead.html). If you use the $40 (only appliable to $400-499 spending) Coupon code: 011RF it takes $40 off the price. The truck is $399, but add something small like a pack of Alkalines (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFE20&P=ML) to make the price $400. Use the coupon code and the price now becomes $360.

This truck might just be worth with the said price.:)

[kurrz]

It's easily worth that. It is a pretty awesome truck.

[Remedy1]

Now I'm wondering if the guys over @ ExtremeRCparts (http://www.extremercparts.com/) that did the original ThunderQuake aftermarkets parts do the same for the Warhead? Although Duratrax states it comes with aftermarket accessories. Only time will tell how much more needs to be advanced.

EDIT: I tried to start an Official Warhead thread in the Nitro MT vehicle forum and I'm not allowed to start threads? :confused: Who disabled my account? :(

[Remedy1]

Ok. Nevermind I figured it out. Thanks.

[Heavy Throttle]

I've got one myself. It's sitting in the basement all torn apart lol. I've stripped the cheesy radio gear out, pulled the tranny out and removed "most" of the reverse system and locked it in place, and now working on the diffs. This is my first complaint. The o-rings that seal the oil in the diff are way outa spec, they hardly even seal squat up. Both of my diffs when I pulled it out of the box were leaking all over the truck. I'm not so sure about the 4 spider gears, they look wimpy, gona try and see how close the entire assembly is to another 1/8 scale diff, it's looks relitevly the same, but if anything the o-rings stink. Okay here's pet peve #2, they grease every little thing in the world too, I have some assembly oil I guess all over my clutch bell and inside with the clutch shoes. So clean clean clean before running it. It also comes with 2 clutch shoes that looks like a simple flywheel change and you can install a standard 3 shoe 1/8 clutch and use the same bell as it has now. Believe it or not too, the pull start handle does fit through that slot in the chassis, like a puzzle too when you have to remove the motor. For a reciever battery use a 5 cell flat pack and you'll also have to change the switch harness. If you remove reverse, you can about get a hump pack secured where the servo was and get rid of the battery box if you crafty... ;)

[ashburg]

Just bought a Duratrax Warhead from the fine folks at Lexington Hobby in S.C.. I thought I'd keep this thread going for those newbies like me who need to share experiences, tuning tips, etc...

First of all, let me just say that this baby is all I expected and then some. Out of the box and 7 tanks later, it's scREAmin' fast. I'm tempted by the Firehammer (pump gas), but I think I'll stick with the WarHead for a while and possibly buy another Warhead for backup.

My big problem right now is flooding. I'll run a tank of nitro, let 'er cool off a while, then fill it up and try to crank - it floods out every time. I've got the high speed needle out 4 1/12 turns and the low speed still at factory setting at 12.5 turns out. Is this way too rich or?

Also - I've gone through 3 (three!) pull starters on this thing. It's me, I know, not the car...maybe this IS the flooding problem...I'm pulling too hard or something.

I've got a bump box on the way - do you think this will help start this thing?

When it is running, I am keeping the temp at 230 degrees (bought a temp gauge, not doing spit test lol).

Other than the flooding, starting problems I'm having, I'm happy as I can be with it - this hobby is like crAck hehe

Email me at ashleybrooks@sc.rr.com or reply to this post with your WarHead Stories - let's get a fan club together :rolleyes:

ash

[savagepicco26]

Just bought a Duratrax Warhead from the fine folks at Lexington Hobby in S.C.. I thought I'd keep this thread going for those newbies like me who need to share experiences, tuning tips, etc...

First of all, let me just say that this baby is all I expected and then some. Out of the box and 7 tanks later, it's scREAmin' fast. I'm tempted by the Firehammer (pump gas), but I think I'll stick with the WarHead for a while and possibly buy another Warhead for backup.

My big problem right now is flooding. I'll run a tank of nitro, let 'er cool off a while, then fill it up and try to crank - it floods out every time. I've got the high speed needle out 4 1/12 turns and the low speed still at factory setting at 12.5 turns out. Is this way too rich or?

Also - I've gone through 3 (three!) pull starters on this thing. It's me, I know, not the car...maybe this IS the flooding problem...I'm pulling too hard or something.

I've got a bump box on the way - do you think this will help start this thing?

When it is running, I am keeping the temp at 230 degrees (bought a temp gauge, not doing spit test lol).

Other than the flooding, starting problems I'm having, I'm happy as I can be with it - this hobby is like crAck hehe

Email me at ashleybrooks@sc.rr.com or reply to this post with your WarHead Stories - let's get a fan club together :rolleyes:

ash
if you're flooding while starting, try holding the throttle wide open while starting the truck. you've got a ton of fuel flowing through there (causing the flooding) so you need to get more air in there to let the fuel burn. don't pump the throttle, hold it wide open till it fires, then let off and keep it running. my RB S7 was a little finicky and needed to do this.

[dpc1234]

Dont hold the throttle wide open. You will break something or get hurt with this thing. It has way too much torque and way too big of tires for that. Sometimes when it is warmed up, you may try partial throttle but this is hard with the warhead since the pull start is tight to begin with and it would require a third hand.

Everybody I have talked to that has one has had the flooding problem. Lean out the LSN abit until it stops flooding and then check the temp after it warms up to make sure you are not too lean. If it is doing this after 7 tanks then you may have never got it up to break in temp in the first place. Also, you can do the pinch test on the fuel line. Do a search for that one on the forums.

Also, the flooding problem is causing your pullstart problems. If it floods it will lock up the piston and not alow you to pull. If you keep pulling, something has to give.

If you start to pull and feel it getting tighter, Stop...... Pull the glow plug and tip it over and pull the pullstart a few to get all the fuel out. Sometimes you even have to pull the fuel line and let it lose its prime so it wont continue to flood. Let it air out and then try it again.

[ashburg]

DCP1234...that's the best advice I've gotten yet...it makes sense to lean out the low speed needle. I'll go from the factory 12.5 turns out to, say, 11 turns out and test the temp at idle.

I did get it up to break in temp...hit 260 at one point, richened out the HSN and brought it down to ~230.

It's after running a tank of fuel, letting it cool, and re-fueling that I get the flooding problem...it's like re-fueling in and of itself over-richens it.

Bumper box coming today...I've had it with this POS pull starter hehe :D . I suppose it'll crank easier with the bumper box.

I've also heard that there is a head gasket leak problem with this Super Tigre motor...anyone had this? If there are 2 gaskets there right on top of each other, shouldn't I go ahead and remove one and re-torque to head off a problem before it even starts?

ash

[woody669]

Here is a copy of the email I sent to Duratrax:
Hi! I bought a Warhead 2 days ago, and while running the first tank I noticed a significant amount of little specks of Black Plastic around the Carbuerator (It was really easy seeing that the Air Filter Tube is Bright Yellow) and around the frame areas. I stopped the truck and checked all the obvious areas, ESPECIALLY THE SPUR GEAR. The spur gear didn't look like it was stripping and didn't feel too tight. (I've been RCing for 30 years and know a little bit about these things lol ;-] ) but i went ahead and loosened up the motor mounts stuck a piece of paper between the gears and readjusted it anyway. Sometimes when the trucks are brand new things in shipping or transit can shift. I made sure it spun freely but not too freely, and the mesh was good, as well as made sure the motor was straight in it's alignment. I then finished the first tank break-in as written in the instructions. After cooling I checked it again and saw some more specks of plastic but the spur gear didn't look like it lost any material off it, so I started looking all around it. Well after removing the Air Filter, Skid Plates, Motor Mount, Motor, Gas tanks, Lines, etc. and inspecting all the above mentioned pieces as well as the transmission and the spur gear, I could not find a cause for the specks of plastic. And since I had it torn down, I installed the fail safe, the hump pack, charging switch, fuel filter, and fuel line,, dropped it down to "racing" height, checked all nuts, bolts, and screws, using thread lock on ALL those going into metal , as the manual suggested (as well as common sense) I had some problems with the throttle linkage hitting the inside of the frame on closing the slide, so i readjusted it a few times until I got it right. Went out to run the second tank tonight after work, and the black specks returned. Upon inspection this time it is noticeable that the spur gear on the side towards the transmission is rounding off the teeth. Ever so slightly it would appear, but nonetheless it is rounding off, I checked the Mesh again and it is still correct as it should be, but it is very obvious now that it is the spur gear shedding and shredding. I took it up to Gateway R/C where I purchased it and had the Proprietor double check everything and he came to the same conclusion.He also informed me that another guy had the same problem with his. So.... Is there a manufacturing problem with the spur gears? If there is, how long before you address it? Are there going to be steel spur gears made available? I plan on racing this truck this season! In fact, after reading all the ads, the info on the web site the reviews etc. I decided to retire my REVO and run the Warhead this upcoming season Instead. I looked at Ofna, Traxxas, XTM, Mugen, and HPI all very seriously and REALLY THOUGHT THE WARHEAD WAS GOING TO GIVE ME THE ADVANTAGE OVER THE COMPETITION. Now......, I'm not so sure!!! I have 9 trucks or buggies this was the 10th. And i am still WOW-ED WITH THE FEATURES BUT, I NEED IT TO WORK. i EVEN ORDERED A BUMP BOX FOR IT CUZ THAT .27 IS HELL ON THE HANDS PULL STARTING IT(HeeHee)(OUCH OUCH! )Should I boil the new spur gears that I just know you're going to send me? Please! So please send me one or two spur gears as they are not available yet according to my local hobby shop's supplier. And PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO KEEP THEM ON MY TRUCK. Also can you tell me if there's an options catalog coming out for like CVD Joints, Single speed transmission kits (So I can be ROAR Legal) etc. and for the folks in design... Please inform them they could have left a little more room for a rotostart to fit.

The next tank completely stripped the gear! Now I gotta tell you the rest of the truck does appear to be potentially AWESOME! So I called Duratrax and talked to (Name Withheld to protect my parts shipment) and he said that they had had several calls regarding the spur gear stripping. It would seem to me that this problem would have showed up during testing unless they got a bad shipment of faulty parts. I wouldn't send it out with this kind of defect and I don't believe Duratrax did either. They are trying to give some legitimate competition to some of the other big names. You don't do that by sending out a breakthrough design with the inability to even get through Breakin. But as of now I don't know if I can really retire my Revo, racing season starts in 2 months or so.
Also the Picture that you posted is not correct; there is a small tank that seems to act as a boost bottle to the right of the main tank.

Woody669
Proud to be a founding member of the
R/C Outlaws
Sponsored by Gateway R/C 108 E. Main St. Collinsville, Il

[ashburg]

Verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry interesting Woody...I've got the same black specks :eek: I thought that was road debris or something

[savagepicco26]

Dont hold the throttle wide open. You will break something or get hurt with this thing. It has way too much torque and way too big of tires for that.
you don't let it run at WOT, you just hold the TX at WOT until it fires. as soon as it fires, you immediately let off. if you do it correctly, the tires should barely even turn as the RPM's won't get high enough to fully engage the clutch. i do this for my savage and revo also.

[dpc1234]

you don't let it run at WOT, you just hold the TX at WOT until it fires. as soon as it fires, you immediately let off. if you do it correctly, the tires should barely even turn as the RPM's won't get high enough to fully engage the clutch. i do this for my savage and revo also.

Ok, that makes sense. But on this truck with the way the slide carb and linkage is, you would have to use the radio to control the throttle and let me tell you that it is very hard to hold onto the truck, the radio with a finger on the trigger, and pull the pull starter. It would definately be easier with a starter box for sure though.

Mine just required minor adjusting on the lSN.

Also I think I am going to eliminate the little tank all together. I remember the other day I had trouble keeping it running when the fuel was gone in the big tank but the little one was still full. I think it somehow loses its prime and I also think the pressure in the little tank somehow floods the engine sometimes after you kill the motor. We will see if it ever stops raining in this state.

[dpc1234]

This was posted on the Warhead site

http://www.warheadmt.com/downloads/dtxd68-addendum.pdf

[ashburg]

dpc & gang...

I finally got my truck cranked last night...I had to lean out both needles way lean to get it to crank. I'm also holding the controller in one hand, while pull starting with the other, while holding the car down with my left hand lol...I have to hold the controller because It won't crank unless I have the throttle about 1/10th of the way open.

Once cranked, I have run-on and a high idle at low end and it bogs at high end - this is because both needles are too lean right?

Also, about the small tank...that statement you made about it pressurizing and flooding after a run makes sense. I'm going to remove mine too and will report what happens. May add a filter while I'm at it.

After reading several posts in several forums about the chronic plastic part breakages going on here, I've just resigned to not beating this particular truck up too much with radical jumps - at least until duratrax comes out with some more robust parts :confused: (wonder if that'll happen)

ash

[savagepicco26]

Once cranked, I have run-on and a high idle at low end LSN is too lean, richen some


and it bogs at high end - this is because both needles are too lean right?

bogs or sputters at full throttle, top speed? if bogs, HSN too rich. if sputters, too lean. also, make sure you're checking engine temps while changing this stuff. a lean condition can happen fast and cause the motor to heat up dangerously fast.

[ashburg]

Thanks Savage...sputters is what it does at top end...starving for gas, I suspect now.

The reason why I have it leaned out so much on both needles is because my warhead has a tendency to flood after a run. Some, now, are saying that this is because of the stock carburetor dripping fuel with back pressure from the (almost empty) gas tank. SO, I have to lean it out bigtime just to get it to crank.

Once I get it cranked, I've got this run-on, high idle, and the sputter at top end like I say. Having trouble getting it to idle otherwise...

I'm (this) close to getting this OS .30 motor: http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=596

My only concern about that is the flywheel matching up and how to get that right. I'd also want to upgrade the clutch...maybe a savage ss clutch? Any reccomendations for a good aluminum clutch/bell housing upgrade??

over an' out :D
ash

[Barfly]

Hi all!
I'm not new to RC, but a total newbie to nitro cars. I only had an electric buggy and an electric MT. I'm going to buy a Warhead as my first nitro MT. The problem is that I live in Russia and there's only one hobbyshop here in Moscow that has warhead. I checked the shop an they said they have only one, and no spare parts for it yet.
I thought I'd order it from Towerhobbies along with a set of parts that are likely to break first.

So the question is - what spare parts should I order with Warhead (like front/rear bulkheads, susp. arms, spurgears, pullstart, etc)? We have no problem here with Savage spare parts and other popular RC cars and trucks, are there any substitutable parts from other models?

I know about duratrax stress tech gurantee, but it'll take too much time to send broken parts from Russia to Duratrax and then wait for replacements.

[ashburg]

I gather that you will need:

-Clutch assembly - maybe even move up to aluminum shoes and a hardened bell
-Servo Saver - breaks in cold climate
-Steering Rod Ends
-4 motor mount allen screws
-PULL STARTERS - get 3 unless you have a bump starter!

I'm hearing that the clutch is burning out to the springs after 7-8 tanks of nitro.

Also, mine is having a flooding problem...MIGHT have to do with the carburetor somehow leaking or something. Looking really hard at this motor: http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=596

pm me or email me and we'll compare notes...

ash

[savagepicco26]

Thanks Savage...sputters is what it does at top end...starving for gas, I suspect now.

The reason why I have it leaned out so much on both needles is because my warhead has a tendency to flood after a run. Some, now, are saying that this is because of the stock carburetor dripping fuel with back pressure from the (almost empty) gas tank. SO, I have to lean it out bigtime just to get it to crank.

Once I get it cranked, I've got this run-on, high idle, and the sputter at top end like I say. Having trouble getting it to idle otherwise...

I'm (this) close to getting this OS .30 motor: http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=596

My only concern about that is the flywheel matching up and how to get that right. I'd also want to upgrade the clutch...maybe a savage ss clutch? Any reccomendations for a good aluminum clutch/bell housing upgrade??

over an' out :D
ash
the high, run-on idle is from the LSN being too lean. the sputtering at top end is also from being too lean on the HSN. once the truck is running, run it, bring it back to you, let it sit. if the idle stays high for more than a second or 2, richen the LSN by 1 hour (12 divisions like a clock) keep doing that till the idle drops once after about 1 second then again after another second or 2. i tune my motors so that they won't idle for more than 5 seconds without stalling. you'll have to adjust the LSN along with the HSN (keeping an eye on temps) if you're sputtering, i can almost guarantee you that your motor's running hot. if you're sputtering, you're dangerously lean. as you're adjusting the LSN richer, adjust the HSN by 1/4 turns till you're not sputtering at least. keep an eye on temps for a solid tank or 2. i would shoot to keep the motor under 250-275 (unless other owners here say lower) i run my savage and revo around 250. if the motor's too hot, adjust the HSN richer by 1/8th turns, run for a minute, recheck temps. big blocks can be finicky to get restarted after running for awhile. after racing 8th scale buggies and monster trucks for a couple years, the method i described earlier about holding it WOT while cranking has always worked. a sponsored, national pro racer showed me how to do that. i haven't had trouble starting a motor since. no matter how rich or lean, hot or cold.

[savagepicco26]

My only concern about that is the flywheel matching up and how to get that right. I'd also want to upgrade the clutch...maybe a savage ss clutch? Any reccomendations for a good aluminum clutch/bell housing upgrade??

over an' out :D
ash
you can get just about whatever flywheel, shoes, springs, and clutchbell combo you want. i like the savage flywheel, savage clutchbell, mugen alluminum shoes (3 ea), and mugen 1.1 springs. 1.1 springs give you more bottom end, but can be a little rougher on the clutchbell since the motor is spinning faster before the shoes engage (i've never had any problems though). 1.0 springs are a little lighter and engage faster. play around and see what you like. 0.9 springs really wouldn't do well on a MT. get the clutch shim kit from Ofna, and you can adjust the clutchbell and flywheel however you need to fit the truck. make sure you get lots of bearing for the clutchbell. they're cheap and changing them often can save you from buying a new motor if the bearing seize up. these are what i get: http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=300

shoes:
http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=112

springs:
http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=111

also, you may need to play around with different flywheel nuts to get the right length. try the one off the stock motor first, then try other brands. Ofna's are longer than the savage one.

[ashburg]

Ok, after some drilling down of exactly what would work best, I have put together the following:

:cool: OS .30 Motor - Got on eBay at (what I think is) a considerable discount...maybe he's got more...here's the closed auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6028783794&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1 . Here's a good installation guide for that motor: http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=596

:cool: Upgrading the clutch so'z I can yank the front wheels off the ground through 1st gear hehe:

- OFNA 16 Tooth (reducing from the stock 17) Hardened ClutchBell: http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?products_id=120

- OFNA ClutchBell Shim Kit (just in case): http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?products_id=383

- Mugen Aluminum Clutch Shoes (going from 2 shoes to 3): http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?products_id=117

- Mugen 1.1mm Clutch Springs (or 1.0): http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=32_61

- OFNA Clutch Nut SG Shaft: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHMG0&P=7

- OFNA SG Shaft Flywheel Taper: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDSW4&P=7

- Dubro Translucent Blue Fuel Tubing: www.dubro.com

I reckon' that'll git 'er done for the time being...until I strip the transmission from all the torque hehe. Hopefully by the time I get this together, some more billet products will be on the market :D

ash
www.ashburg.com

[Heavy Throttle]

Let us know how the 3 shoe conversion goes. I have mine all ready to go in race format and got all my new radio gear in place ready to go as of last night. Just need a set of new tires and some steering linkage changes and I'll be all set, at least I hope so.

[mcdanielbc]

I just bought a Durtrax Warhead and am not pleased. After running the truck at full throttle, it kept going after I let go of the throttle. It went full throttle for 10 seconds until it hit a wall. The truck has about $50 dollars worth of damage. What worse is it still has a problem. It is a great truck if you want to run it about 10mph. The sales associate that sold me the truck actually did not recommend it because of Duratrax history. I wish I would have listened. Beware of this product. :(

[Quinton]

Welcome to the forums. Are you a nitro newb?
What did he recommend?

[Heavy Throttle]

I got mine all broke in and playing around with it, jumping it over some piles of dirt and did a large set of cartwheels. Broke the Servo Saver unit. It was very very cold though, but I think there is a slight design flaw, if they whould of left more plastic in the center pieces reaching out towards the drag link. They hollowed it out and looks like a common part to break. Some aftermarket company might make one soon enough in alum. though. I've seen the savage ones, not sure if they would fit on this truck. Hot Bodies looks like they have one that might work as well. Otherwise this thing hugs the ground pretty darn good. Shifts into second good and seems to have a sharp turning radius.

[dpc1234]

I just bought a Durtrax Warhead and am not pleased. After running the truck at full throttle, it kept going after I let go of the throttle. It went full throttle for 10 seconds until it hit a wall. The truck has about $50 dollars worth of damage. What worse is it still has a problem. It is a great truck if you want to run it about 10mph. The sales associate that sold me the truck actually did not recommend it because of Duratrax history. I wish I would have listened. Beware of this product. :(
Sounds like more going on then you let on. Did you even break it in? Did you verify that the throttle linkage was set correctly before you went all out throttle? Did it run out of range(this would make the servo stay at WOT) This is something that could happen to any nitro or elec. You are lucky it was only about $50 damage and that it didnt hurt someone. I seen a Revo the other day that a kid got for christmas and hit a tree at full throttle. That was $200+ damage and it wasn't even a week old. There is nothing wrong with the Warhead in this respect. It sounds like a tunning or linkage problem. All of which should be set right before putting the pedal down. Dont blame the truck if the operator couldn't control it. In the past, Duratrax has made people dissapointed but this truck was a revival for them and it does have some weak points. But, I'd say that if it crashed at WOT and only broke a little, that says something for the rigidity and engineering of the truck.

[67f100StPro]

Sounds like more going on then you let on. Did you even break it in? Did you verify that the throttle linkage was set correctly before you went all out throttle? Did it run out of range(this would make the servo stay at WOT) This is something that could happen to any nitro or elec. You are lucky it was only about $50 damage and that it didnt hurt someone. I seen a Revo the other day that a kid got for christmas and hit a tree at full throttle. That was $200+ damage and it wasn't even a week old. There is nothing wrong with the Warhead in this respect. It sounds like a tunning or linkage problem. All of which should be set right before putting the pedal down. Dont blame the truck if the operator couldn't control it. In the past, Duratrax has made people dissapointed but this truck was a revival for them and it does have some weak points. But, I'd say that if it crashed at WOT and only broke a little, that says something for the rigity and engineering of the truck.

Well said. I think Duratrax has a good thing goin with the Warhead but any new product will have problems. I used to own a Max St Pro and it was a good truck until it started eating 2nd gear spur gears for lunch. I would buy another if I had the chance.

[savagepicco26]

I just bought a Durtrax Warhead and am not pleased. After running the truck at full throttle, it kept going after I let go of the throttle. It went full throttle for 10 seconds until it hit a wall. The truck has about $50 dollars worth of damage. What worse is it still has a problem. It is a great truck if you want to run it about 10mph. The sales associate that sold me the truck actually did not recommend it because of Duratrax history. I wish I would have listened. Beware of this product. :(
well, it sounds like you didn't put a failsafe on it like all nitro vehicles need. either you were out of range for the cheap AM radio that comes with it, or you had something binding the throttle as previously mentioned. and $50 for a full throttle nitro crash is not that bad! :D

[Quinton]

That's not really fair if he's a nitro newb. I knew NOTHING about failsafes when I was new to nitro's. Years later I still don't use them.

[mcdanielbc]

Well said. I think Duratrax has a good thing goin with the Warhead but any new product will have problems. I used to own a Max St Pro and it was a good truck until it started eating 2nd gear spur gears for lunch. I would buy another if I had the chance.

I ran 3 tanks of fuel through the engine at idle, and then another 3 at a low speed. The linkage does not get stuck when the engine is off. The truck runs out of control after it shifts into second gear, it is fine in first gear. I am going to buy a fail safe, but I do not think this is the problem. I really think either the vibration of the engine is making the radio go crazy or, something is not letting the throttle servo retract. If I run this thing full throttle, I need at least 5 seconds of wide open space before the engine will slow. Also, I can see black plastic pieces all over the car, which I think is from the gears. I am going to have the technician at the hobby shop fix it Monday. I just hope they can figure out what’s wrong. I will let you all know what they tell me.

[mcdanielbc]

The sales associate recommended the traxx. I just bought this thing because a couple of guys at my work bought one. He bought a HPI, which actually runs great. I used to run nitro boats in college, and had an electric rc10. It’s been about 8 years since I have messed with this stuff. Also, they did not have RTR kits, so when something was not working you could figure out went wrong because you built the thing. However, I actually would not have bough this thin if I had to put it together.

[dpc1234]

I ran 3 tanks of fuel through the engine at idle, and then another 3 at a low speed. The linkage does not get stuck when the engine is off. The truck runs out of control after it shifts into second gear, it is fine in first gear. I am going to buy a fail safe, but I do not think this is the problem. I really think either the vibration of the engine is making the radio go crazy or, something is not letting the throttle servo retract. If I run this thing full throttle, I need at least 5 seconds of wide open space before the engine will slow. Also, I can see black plastic pieces all over the car, which I think is from the gears. I am going to have the technician at the hobby shop fix it Monday. I just hope they can figure out what’s wrong. I will let you all know what they tell me.

Ok so first I would like to say sorry for being so harsh. That being said, You need to give the truck a chance. The experience you are describing is whats known as "run on". I believe this is when the engine leans out after WOT and engine RPM increases. This is because your truck is running lean on the HSN. That combined with a loose brake setup would make the thing uncontrolable. First, work with the brake linkage to get the pressure just right on it. I put a piece of fuel line as long as the hard spring over the hard spring so it doesn't compress and gives full pull to the brake. Second, after getting the brakes to work better, go out and adjust the needle settings so it doesn't have the " run on ". Richen it up till it bogs at WOT then back it off til it just stops bogging. That should be good. Third, you say you have black flakes........This is caused by a combination of things, a high idle on this truck out of the box combined with cheap(but factory) clutch shoes and a fairly weak clutch spring. The flakes you are seeing are indeed whats left of your clutch shoes. If you are going to take it in, have the guy either put lighter but better pair of shoes or convert it to a 3 shoe(flywheel will be smaller dia then). Dont go with aluminum shoes unless you like to take the motor out all the time to deburr them. In my Warhead, I had all the same you described and did as I said. For the clutch, I used a brand of shoes called MIP that were for the Savage. They come with 2 mounting holes and double springs. I cut the first set of holes off(making them lighter raises RPM when shoes engage getting engagement within the powerband of the motor), used 1 spring(found 2 was too much) and the thing now squats hard and pulls one wheel when I go WOT. Get to it and have fun. :)

[Barfly]

Does anyone know if there's a possibility of using a rotostart system (not the starter box) with the Warhead?

[savagepicco26]

Does anyone know if there's a possibility of using a rotostart system (not the starter box) with the Warhead?
if it has a pull start, then you should be able to put a roto start on it. might need some cutting in some places.

[ashburg]

good suggestions dpc and all...

I've got the same high speed run-on problem. Will put the fuel line on the brake linkage and richen up the HSN.

dpc...I just bought an OS .30 motor to go in this thing (as if the .27 wasn't out of control enough hehe) and to go with it, I strengthened the clutch setup...

I got aluminum shoes.

What's this about deburring the shoes? Do they melt somewhat after wear and you have to rough them up or what?

As an alternative to the aluminum 3 pin 3 shoe setup I'm using with the OS .30 motor, what (teflon, plastic, other) shoes would you reccomend (or with that kind of power, will I just have to put up with deburring?).

ash

[dpc1234]

if it has a pull start, then you should be able to put a roto start on it. might need some cutting in some places.


Because of the location of the motor, You would have to cut out the rear end of the truck to use a rotostart. I was thinking of trying one of those 90deg start systems that you start from the side or top instead of directly behind the motor like the Tiger drive.

[dpc1234]

What's this about deburring the shoes? Do they melt somewhat after wear and you have to rough them up or what?


ash
I dont exactly know. from what I have read here, the aluminum shoes to grab harder but require more maint like deburring and wear out clutch bells faster than the alternative. I am still undecided on what I want too.

Oh, Ash, I remember you saying something about replacing the stock 17T clutch bell. The stock is a 15T so if you get a 16T you are going backwards.

[ashburg]

Yep, I found that out in the meantime...stock is 15 teeth, not 17 like it says in the parts list at tower.

I am sticking to the plan, though...going to aluminum shoes ( x3 ) and a 16 tooth bell...with that powerful OS .30, though, I really do need to be going backwards on the gearing anyhoo :o

thanks for the heads up,
ash

[Heavy Throttle]

Getting my warhead all setup, I've seeing metal or plastic shavings coming from the spur gear area. I've had the entire assembly off several time now trying to solve the problem. The particles are coming out of the engine side of the metal pressure plate. The rear looks good and no issues. The front plate looks like it gets glazed all over. The last run after I cleaned it all up I tried completely tightening the nut. Well it still spits out crud inbetween the front pressure plate and the blue slipper pad. I wish I had my camera with me cause I can get a good shot of it physically sticking out between the two. Called tech support and they want the truck back and I told them no way in you know what since it's all ready to go for racing. It's just this one little problem I can't figure out and wondering if maybee the plate's not hardend enough or something else. I can't find any wear on the spur gear either. The plate is hot when I'm done running and with it sinched tight can't see where the problem is...

[woody669]

I ran 3 tanks of fuel through the engine at idle, and then another 3 at a low speed. The linkage does not get stuck when the engine is off. The truck runs out of control after it shifts into second gear, it is fine in first gear. I am going to buy a fail safe, but I do not think this is the problem. I really think either the vibration of the engine is making the radio go crazy or, something is not letting the throttle servo retract. If I run this thing full throttle, I need at least 5 seconds of wide open space before the engine will slow. Also, I can see black plastic pieces all over the car, which I think is from the gears. I am going to have the technician at the hobby shop fix it Monday. I just hope they can figure out what’s wrong. I will let you all know what they tell me.

If you read my email to duratrax you would have noticed something about the linkage not allowed to fully retract because mine was hitting the inside of the frame. Try taking a look there? And as for failsafes..... I have them on 2 of 11 trucks the Warhead is one of them..... Do the math

[woody669]

Because of the location of the motor, You would have to cut out the rear end of the truck to use a rotostart. I was thinking of trying one of those 90deg start systems that you start from the side or top instead of directly behind the motor like the Tiger drive.

Tiger drive didn't fit too well..... might want to consider a start box

[Heavy Throttle]

Attached is a pic of what is coming from my spur assembly. Maybee someone else might have this problem or someone may know what it is. I'm still baffled and I've tried everyting I know at the moment.

Thanks!!

[savagepicco26]

I dont exactly know. from what I have read here, the aluminum shoes to grab harder but require more maint like deburring and wear out clutch bells faster than the alternative.
i have run alluminum shoes in my MT's for the last 2 years. i've never deburred them and i get at least 5 gallons on one clutchbell. that's more mileage that a lot of parts get!

[woody669]

I gather that you will need:

-Clutch assembly - maybe even move up to aluminum shoes and a hardened bell
-Servo Saver - breaks in cold climate
-Steering Rod Ends
-4 motor mount allen screws
-PULL STARTERS - get 3 unless you have a bump starter!

I'm hearing that the clutch is burning out to the springs after 7-8 tanks of nitro.

Also, mine is having a flooding problem...MIGHT have to do with the carburetor somehow leaking or something. Looking really hard at this motor: http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=596

pm me or email me and we'll compare notes...

ash


Don't forget SPUR GEARS depending on shipping times to your country I would get 3-5 Spur gears. PS. For those of you that don't know Duratrax CS is being very generous and VERY Understanding about breakages.. Call and ask for replacement Parts. It worked for me!!!!!

[woody669]

Getting my warhead all setup, I've seeing metal or plastic shavings coming from the spur gear area. I've had the entire assembly off several time now trying to solve the problem. The particles are coming out of the engine side of the metal pressure plate. The rear looks good and no issues. The front plate looks like it gets glazed all over. The last run after I cleaned it all up I tried completely tightening the nut. Well it still spits out crud inbetween the front pressure plate and the blue slipper pad. I wish I had my camera with me cause I can get a good shot of it physically sticking out between the two. Called tech support and they want the truck back and I told them no way in you know what since it's all ready to go for racing. It's just this one little problem I can't figure out and wondering if maybee the plate's not hardend enough or something else. I can't find any wear on the spur gear either. The plate is hot when I'm done running and with it sinched tight can't see where the problem is...

Duratrax posted an addendum on the website
Maybe it will help!?
http://www.warheadmt.com/downloads/dtxd68-addendum.pdf

[woody669]

I dont exactly know. from what I have read here, the aluminum shoes to grab harder but require more maint like deburring and wear out clutch bells faster than the alternative. I am still undecided on what I want too.

Oh, Ash, I remember you saying something about replacing the stock 17T clutch bell. The stock is a 15T so if you get a 16T you are going backwards.
XTM Mammoth/ Xterminator Clutch Worked great! with 16 tooth Ofna Clutch Bell

[woody669]

luvnitro - I would just get the .28 savage kit. the savage has been around for awhile and the new kit has all the needed upgrades!
How could you tell anyone with an HONEST Opinion to buy a .28 or .46 Savage? They turn like a wash bucket, the shocks are too soft and very cumbersome, the Side Plates continue to come loose no matter how much threadlock you use, it eats a spur gear every three tanks due to the vibration and the screws coming loose. The stock tires sidewalls are very soft and "fold Over" IT IS A BEAR TO GET TO ANYTHING! and yes I know the three speed is a nice addition but it is not allowed for racing so it makes it just about as worthless as "rain in a swimming pool" HPI Makes some great road racers but they need to leave the dirt to someone else. Or have you considered the Nitro Rush YUCK! Yes I owned a Rush and a Savage .25, and a .46 and the best thing I did was sell them. I am not trying to antagonize the savage lovers but the HPI Trucks have never been kind to me and it is just IMHO

[Barfly]

I think, you've got a mistake here. There's a kit Savage SS 4.6 and 4.6 is cubic centimetres (cc), while .28 is cubic inches. So .28 savage is exactly the same thing as 4.6 savage.

I know a beter question, for which I would very much like to hear an HONEST opinion. Should I buy a Savage SS 4.6 kit or Duratrax Warhead as a first nitro rc?

This is very confusing. 'Cause I really like the Warhead, according to what I read here and on the official site. But I'm really afraid I won't be able to get the spare parts I need here in Moscow. You can buy Savage parts everywhere in Moscow, and they're dirt cheap.

My problem is that I don't wan't a truck that everyone else around has... And 50% of MT owners here have Savage. And there's noone with the Warhead.

Please, tell me what to do! I don't want to be disappointed with my first nitro RC.

[dpc1234]

I think, you've got a mistake here. There's a kit Savage SS 4.6 and 4.6 is cubic centimetres (cc), while .28 is cubic inches. So .28 savage is exactly the same thing as 4.6 savage.

I know a beter question, for which I would very much like to hear an HONEST opinion. Should I buy a Savage SS 4.6 kit or Duratrax Warhead as a first nitro rc?

This is very confusing. 'Cause I really like the Warhead, according to what I read here and on the official site. But I'm really afraid I won't be able to get the spare parts I need here in Moscow. You can buy Savage parts everywhere in Moscow, and they're dirt cheap.

My problem is that I don't wan't a truck that everyone else around has... And 50% of MT owners here have Savage. And there's noone with the Warhead.

Please, tell me what to do! I don't want to be disappointed with my first nitro RC.
You will only be dissapointed if you let yourself. Being new to nitro, you will have problems. Duratrax is not carried by alot of stores however, I just called them up about some broken plastic and in about a week I had free replacements. If your in doubt about spare parts, make notes of all that we have found out and order them when you order your truck, Most are really cheap and it would be good to have them exactly when you break them. Being new, you WILL break something no matter what truck. Just be as prepared as you can.

[ashburg]

Hey...why would you not want to use the Duratrax Starter Box?
ash

[Barfly]

You will only be dissapointed if you let yourself. Being new to nitro, you will have problems. Duratrax is not carried by alot of stores however, I just called them up about some broken plastic and in about a week I had free replacements. If your in doubt about spare parts, make notes of all that we have found out and order them when you order your truck, Most are really cheap and it would be good to have them exactly when you break them. Being new, you WILL break something no matter what truck. Just be as prepared as you can.

I'm totally aware of the problems of being a nitro newb. I read through the forum, and noticed, that most of the problems the Warhed owners have are connected with different devices around engine - clutch assembly, fuel line, carb, spur, pullstart. So probably I'll be able to use parts from different more popular cars like ofna, mugen, hpi, right? If that is true, then I will definitely go for Warhead. And I wil just order the PLASTIC parts that will break first. For now, the only part of Warhead I read in the forum about that is weak is front/rear bulkhead. What are the other weak parts?

I also heard the cast alu engine frame is weak, should I order one too?

I don't have a car, so I'll have to walk to the race track. I have an electric 1/8 MT, and it wasn't a problem, 'cause it doesn't need any track equipment. The starter box is three, maybe four times as heavy as HPI rotostart, it's more expensive and requires two batt packs.

It's -8 F here, and it is going to be -20 F tomorrow. I fear the plastic will break like glass.


Oh yeah, and servo saver assembly is weak too.

[woody669]

Even with the problems I had with my Warhead I am still very pleased with it! When the Revo first came out there were shock breakages, spur gear strippages etc. but now there are all kind of am parts.... And yes there was a typo in my last post I meant .25 but I was thinking about the .46 which is a .28 SORRY! I haven't seen any truck come out where there weren't problems. And some guys are having great luck with the WARHEAD. I put an XTM Slide Clutch and a 15 CB and it bolted up fine. I have issues with using 3 or 4 shoe clutches because you have to tear the motor out to deburr the clutch shoes every 6 or 7 runs. Of course there are issues with any type of clutch but I have really been looking into the racing clutches by WERKS. Talked with my LHS to see what kind of availability there was and what was the word, Good or Bad? He said he hasn't had time to look into them yet so I told him to order me one and I'll do the review for him. Let you know here as soon as I know!!!!
GET THE WARHEAD!!!!
I'm totally aware of the problems of being a nitro newb. I read through the forum, and noticed, that most of the problems the Warhed owners have are connected with different devices around engine - clutch assembly, fuel line, carb, spur, pullstart. So probably I'll be able to use parts from different more popular cars like ofna, mugen, hpi, right? If that is true, then I will definitely go for Warhead. And I wil just order the PLASTIC parts that will break first. For now, the only part of Warhead I read in the forum about that is weak is front/rear bulkhead. What are the other weak parts?

I also heard the cast alu engine frame is weak, should I order one too?

I don't have a car, so I'll have to walk to the race track. I have an electric 1/8 MT, and it wasn't a problem, 'cause it doesn't need any track equipment. The starter box is three, maybe four times as heavy as HPI rotostart, it's more expensive and requires two batt packs.

It's -8 F here, and it is going to be -20 F tomorrow. I fear the plastic will break like glass.


Oh yeah, and servo saver assembly is weak too.

[dpc1234]

I'm totally aware of the problems of being a nitro newb. I read through the forum, and noticed, that most of the problems the Warhed owners have are connected with different devices around engine - clutch assembly, fuel line, carb, spur, pullstart. So probably I'll be able to use parts from different more popular cars like ofna, mugen, hpi, right? If that is true, then I will definitely go for Warhead. And I wil just order the PLASTIC parts that will break first. For now, the only part of Warhead I read in the forum about that is weak is front/rear bulkhead. What are the other weak parts?

I also heard the cast alu engine frame is weak, should I order one too?

I don't have a car, so I'll have to walk to the race track. I have an electric 1/8 MT, and it wasn't a problem, 'cause it doesn't need any track equipment. The starter box is three, maybe four times as heavy as HPI rotostart, it's more expensive and requires two batt packs.

It's -8 F here, and it is going to be -20 F tomorrow. I fear the plastic will break like glass.


Oh yeah, and servo saver assembly is weak too.

From what I have heard, those temps are too cold for Nitro engins to work right anyways but if Savages run, this will too.

You will break alot of plastic at those temps too. The one piece I have seen the most breakage of is the upper steering bellcrank (more than any other). Also get some steering rod ends too.

As for the clutch, plan on changing it. The stock one has to be the worst thing about the truck. Go with a flywheel, clutch shoes, and clutch bell from another 1/8 scale Nitro. Absolutely get a three shoe. Alum shoes grab harder but require more maint than composites.

[ashburg]

What's up guys...

Waiting on front drive shaft...had to do some experiments in the meantime...

Black flakes/spots are definately from stock clutch. Will they diminish with use - I think they will, but this stock clutch setup with the flimsy spring just ain't cuttin' it. It's obviously a component that DTX figured we'd upgrade on our own; they cut a corner there. Anyway, took bell off, spring fell out...

Broken spring was culprit for my creeping problem...I thought it was the idle lol...

Put new stock clutch/spring in for the time being (until my OS .30 comes in, etc)...spring humps over flywheel pin...is this ok?

Carb Leak?...where is this carb leak I keep hearing about, what's the fix for it, and how do you remove the carb? I took of that set screw that appeared to be holding the carb on, but it didn't release it...obviously a pin there, but how to get it out?????

RE: Motor/Head leak...shims...Took the head off and exposed combustion chamber and these 2 shims I keep reading about. Took one of the shims out, re-torqued, and the piston bottomed out and would not complete stroke at top. Put shim back in and works fine now. I THINK THE REMOVAL OF SHIMS IS A MISTAKE - I think the "head leak" should be remedied by re-torquing the head after a run (after it heats up)...now I need a miniature torque wrench

So add it up - weak clutch setup, head leaks, broken pull starters (3 now), leaky carb with slide problems, etc...forking out $219 for the OS .30 Motor and an additional $35 or so for the Mugen Aluminum 3 Shoe Clutch setup with the Ofna Hardened Bell is beginning to be more affordable yes??

ash

[dpc1234]

What's up guys...


Carb Leak?...where is this carb leak I keep hearing about, what's the fix for it, and how do you remove the carb? I took of that set screw that appeared to be holding the carb on, but it didn't release it...obviously a pin there, but how to get it out?????

ash

The "pin" you speak of actually has a notch in it to match the bore in the carb port of the engine block and pulls against the carb when you tighten the screw. Just remove the screw(leave the "pin") and pull out the carb(gently) and you will see that most likely the bottom o-ring is torn from assembly where it passes the section of the block where this pin intersects the port on the block. Deburr it and eplace o-rings(lube them up also). Also remove the needles and lube up those o-rings too. Finally, remove idle screw and gently grind the small end flat(Square to the Dia) if it is rounded or distorted. That will help your slide from rotating when the linkage retracts because the only thing that aligns the slide is the screw riding in the notch.

[usc2001gc]

Even with the problems I had with my Warhead I am still very pleased with it! When the Revo first came out there were shock breakages, spur gear strippages etc. but now there are all kind of am parts.... And yes there was a typo in my last post I meant .25 but I was thinking about the .46 which is a .28 SORRY! I haven't seen any truck come out where there weren't problems. And some guys are having great luck with the WARHEAD. I put an XTM Slide Clutch and a 15 CB and it bolted up fine. I have issues with using 3 or 4 shoe clutches because you have to tear the motor out to deburr the clutch shoes every 6 or 7 runs. Of course there are issues with any type of clutch but I have really been looking into the racing clutches by WERKS. Talked with my LHS to see what kind of availability there was and what was the word, Good or Bad? He said he hasn't had time to look into them yet so I told him to order me one and I'll do the review for him. Let you know here as soon as I know!!!!
GET THE WARHEAD!!!!

Could you give me the part numbers required to make the xtm slide clutch work? I thought their clutch was for a SG style crank shaft, not a standard like the Warhead has.

[woody669]

my boy has posted the few comments about the XTM SLIDE Clutch after being asked about the install I went ahead and did it to see what the %&$ he was talking about. It can be done But I would not recommend it because of too many shims on the end of the shaft. Sorry! And my computer WILL NOT be available to him the next time he visits from his mom's

[nitrorcman123]

i was wonderin if the warhead is a good truck and how much is it

[doesgo]

Read through this thread to see if it's good, based on what others have said. As for the price, Tower has it for $430.

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

I just bought a Warhead that is suppose to be here on Friday. It seems that everybody was out of stock on these for a while so I am kind of wondering if they made a few changes to take care of part of the problems that is being seen on these boards. Anyway, I was wondering if any has tried to use a Tiger Drive on the Warhead yet? I bought this thing for my wife who is only 4'11'' and 100lbs on a good day. I know it will be too much for her to pull so I want to install a Tiger on it. I saw one article where the S680 has an adopter plate that can rotate 45* and wondered if that would be enough to have the drive go through where the pull start comes out at?

[doesgo]

I read in a forum (maybe at RC Universe?) where someone put a Tiger Drive on their Warhead and had to do some mods or "clearancing" to get it to fit, I believe.

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

I read in a forum (maybe at RC Universe?) where someone put a Tiger Drive on their Warhead and had to do some mods or "clearancing" to get it to fit, I believe.

Got any idea if he tried to go through the top or if it was offset to the side? Looking at the pictures it looks like a guy (or gal to be PC) could grind a little of the side without to much of a worry. Also, do you know which drive (part number) they used? I have been all over the net looking and can't find anything yet. I even wrote Tiger but have not heard anything other then "it's coming soon." Hell, soon in the RC world seems to mean sometime in the next 9 months.

[woody669]

Was informed today that a ROTO START will fit but the shaft is too short at the LHS he is extending his rotostart shaft at the machine shop. Was also informed that the 2.5 maxx tiger drive fits but can't confirm; that's the one I tried to mount and it didn't line up correctly for me but it was used and I didn't have the part No. so it could have been any one; I wanted it to come in through the side it appears to be able to clear but ....... Got any idea if he tried to go through the top or if it was offset to the side? Looking at the pictures it looks like a guy (or gal to be PC) could grind a little of the side without to much of a worry. Also, do you know which drive (part number) they used? I have been all over the net looking and can't find anything yet. I even wrote Tiger but have not heard anything other then "it's coming soon." Hell, soon in the RC world seems to mean sometime in the next 9 months.

[doesgo]

This forum is VERY long, but there's a ton of information there. I THINK the write-up of the Tiger Drive Warhead is in there somewhere. Wish I could be of more help!

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

Was informed today that a ROTO START will fit but the shaft is too short at the LHS he is extending his rotostart shaft at the machine shop. Was also informed that the 2.5 maxx tiger drive fits but can't confirm; that's the one I tried to mount and it didn't line up correctly for me but it was used and I didn't have the part No. so it could have been any one; I wanted it to come in through the side it appears to be able to clear but .......

I did a lot of research and according to Tower you have to use part number S681 with the 8mm one-way. I guess the maxx is only at 6mm. The maxx does offset by 45* and alllows you to come in from the same location as the pull start but you need to use the shaft gear from the s681 kit. The s681, from what I understand, makes you come in from the top of the truck and requires the use of a starter wand like from a roto start. it is my understanding that it comes close the head and you can't get a drill to work the wand? I ordered the s681 today and will give it a shot as soon as the truck gets here. I'll post some pics and a right up as soon as I get both of them here.

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

This forum is VERY long, but there's a ton of information there. I THINK the write-up of the Tiger Drive Warhead is in there somewhere. Wish I could be of more help!

i tired to do a form search and go so many hits (something like 14 pages) that it only made sense to ask again.

[doesgo]

Why not just get a starter box?

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

Why not just get a starter box?

We plan on running at an out door track that measures over 500'x500'. It would suck for her to have to carry a box out, or drag the truck back to the pits, every time she manages to flame it out. Also, all the other trucks we own (a TC, Maxx, and Savage 25) have some kind of roto-strart or on-board starting system. Our funds would be better spent at adopting the Warhead to fit the systems we already use. In this case the drive is only $22 and we don't have to buy a second roto-start. If we bought the box we would be looking at spending 49-89 for the box, another 10-15 for the 12v battery and another 25-50 for a charger. And then all you have is another big box to lug out to the field. (I have a degree in accounting and finance so I am always looking for the most cost effective and timely way of doing things :cool: )

[doesgo]

Makes sense to me, Dad! Excellent reasoning.

[ashburg]

I'll see if I can't dig up some info on the Tiger Drive question...it's at this forum somewhere: http://warhead.ashburg.com

[ashburg]

Here's the link to Spacoli's beta test of the tiger drive on the warhead...personally, I don't mind the pull starter (but I chose to bite the bullet and ditch the stock super tigre and replace it with an OS .30 VG). My pull starter on my OS does not break (I broke 3 with the stock motor :rolleyes: ).

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3829920

good luck,
ash

[dpc1234]

Tiger drive............

Save this link: http://www.sullivanproducts.com/TigerDriveXrefmainframe.htm

It says late Feb.

[ashburg]

How to get your Duratrax Warhead to Wheelie on Command (http://www.ashburg.com/ashburgdotcom.AVI)

Here's how I've got my warhead rigged to do this: Thread (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3905404)

ash
www.ashburg.com

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

I ordered the TigerDrive S682 off of Tower. They state that you have to mod the truck to get it to fit. I thought no problem I am handy with tools. I took the engine out and open the package only to find out the package is for a 8mm starter shaft the the engine has a 6mm shaft. Needless to say I am hot at Tower for not checking out what they printed.

[Team Player]

NO guys it's not a clone of the SAVAGE the Savage is a awsome truck. My buddy bought a WARHEAD and let me tell you a short story. The WARHEAD is JUNK he brought home 1. burn up the spur gear .took it back 2.the sirvos all out of wack. took it back 3. brought home a 3rd one home . would not stay running took it back to the store. the guy at the hobby store could not even keep it running.My buddy had to wait 3 weeks for the hobby shop to send them back and get new ones in. Now truck #4 comes home with him and let me tell you. Even #4 He could kick his self in the ass he says "the truck is JUNK"

[ashburg]

Hmm...that's funny, I can't keep my front end on the ground :D
http://www.ashburg.com/warhead.jpg

Check out www.ashburg.com for what all I've done to it...it's a very versitile truck.

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

NO guys it's not a clone of the SAVAGE the Savage is a awsome truck. My buddy bought a WARHEAD and let me tell you a short story. The WARHEAD is JUNK he brought home 1. burn up the spur gear .took it back 2.the sirvos all out of wack. took it back 3. brought home a 3rd one home . would not stay running took it back to the store. the guy at the hobby store could not even keep it running.My buddy had to wait 3 weeks for the hobby shop to send them back and get new ones in. Now truck #4 comes home with him and let me tell you. Even #4 He could kick his self in the ass he says "the truck is JUNK"

I bought a Savage 25 and Warhead brand new in the same week. I have broke in both trucks using the heat sink method and now have the same number of tanks through both eninges. The Savage was a little easier to tune but in stock condition the warhead was the faster of the two (I have put a 3 speed in the Savage which has now made it have more top end). The warhead belongs to my wife and we bash at the same location. Niether truck has broken anything (yet) and pound for pound the warhead handles better. My wife can take monster tight turns that flips the savage over on its top every time. She hasn't lost a sevro saver yet but I just bought a new mini mill and lathe and plan on making aluminum parts for it starting next week. If you want one drop me a line and I'll start making more.

[dpc1234]

NO guys it's not a clone of the SAVAGE the Savage is a awsome truck. My buddy bought a WARHEAD and let me tell you a short story. The WARHEAD is JUNK he brought home 1. burn up the spur gear .took it back 2.the sirvos all out of wack. took it back 3. brought home a 3rd one home . would not stay running took it back to the store. the guy at the hobby store could not even keep it running.My buddy had to wait 3 weeks for the hobby shop to send them back and get new ones in. Now truck #4 comes home with him and let me tell you. Even #4 He could kick his self in the ass he says "the truck is JUNK"

Welllll...., you cant just take it back when you have a problem. No RC is without problems and if your not savy with tools then you should get an RC at Toys r US not your LHS. All of us have had our problems with the Warhead but it is all documented on the net for anyone to research. Even the Savage had major trouble when it came out. The Warhead has really only been on the market for about 3 months. It has been a learning experience for me since this was my first nitro. I think beginers or people that dont like to work on there own stuff should count on not driving RC's. Otherwise, the truck will spend more time with someone else and not them.

[SOILWORK]

[QUOTE=CooLJoE8]Looks like a good truck.

However, I see an immediate need for an aluminum part. That being the bulks. I can see the bulks being broken right where they mount to the chassis plates with the 3 screws.[/QUOTE

Aluminum bulkheads would be great.I broke mine on only my 3rd tank of gas

[ashburg]

You got that right...the bulkheads are very weak with the warhead. Compared to the savage X, well, there is no comparison.

[savagepicco26]

You got that right...the bulkheads are very weak with the warhead. Compared to the savage X, well, there is no comparison.
ANY savage for that matter! LOL i've never had a BH problem with my savage.

[doesgo]

Same here. Three years, countless beatings, no broken arms, bulkheads, body mounts, servo savers...the list goes on!

[ccs77]

I've broken bulks in my Savy....

Hey does anyone know if the HPI Savage carb for the .25 is a direct fit for the motor in the Warhead?

The slide twisted in the carb barrel and locked up, I gather it is a goner?

[ashburg]

everyone I've talked to that is changing carbs is using this one http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001107473&I=LXFRE3&P=K

I think that's the one you're speaking of.

Have you guys ever "sealed up the base of your carb"? due to a hard tune to chase...I'm really hesitant to put sensor safe sealant on either of my trucks (savage x, warhead)

[doesgo]

Yeah, regularly. It's always a good idea to seal the carb and backplate on any engine. I also (usually) seal the top and bottom of the banjo fitting (fuel inlet) on the HSN assembly.

On the carb, just run a very thin bead to sit in the "corner" of the casting at the top of the cylindrical portion that slides into the block, right where the machining stops and the rest of the carb body begins. No excess sealant! Also remember to maintain pressure on the carb as you tighten the carb bolt, that'll help seal the carb as well because it'll tighten the gap that the o-ring is filling.

[ashburg]

10-4...thanks doesgo

[Mantis]

Admin Way did I get a cookie at the end of the thread.

[Mantis]

I DOn't check the form for a month and 1/2 and theres a new traxas, savy-X, and you have a OS in your WAR HEAD. Times a flyen. I hope are trucks can fly as fast. P.S. Watch out for that money pit!!

[Mantis]

It took 12 months and 12 days to finally get it from Tower. I ordered 13 days before xmas year before last. Fedex dropped it on the door step dec 24. I proptly started it and melted the spur before I had it out of the garage. One glow plug and a 1 gal 1/2 of Monster Horse Power 20% later wheelies on demand evere since! :cool: Very nice truck! Its really hard to flip on the pavement. Well not over backwards! :D

[Mantis]

OPPS 13.98 spur

[savagepicco26]

Admin Way did I get a cookie at the end of the thread.
what? :confused:

[dpc1234]

Ok here you guys go. The most sought after replcement for the broken plastic bell crank of the servo saver.

Lower bell crank on Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6043430169&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1)

[skat]

Any of you guys own 1? I have 1 and I need help I am having some problems. I am putting a REX 528 in mine and I want to run a 3 shoe fly wheel and I can not find a fly wheel that will push the the clutch bell far enough foward to be in direct line with the spur gear. It is about 3-4 mm short. I have tried the savage and hellfire flywheel I need 1 that is raised alittle.

[ashburg]

maybe this will help? http://ashburg.com/?p=364

[doesgo]

People seem to be having luck with the OFNA #10040 flywheel (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_127&products_id=578), it's thicker than most.

[ashburg]

ah, you are ko-rekt my friend...sorry to mislead :)

People seem to be having luck with the OFNA #10040 flywheel (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_127&products_id=578), it's thicker than most.

[doesgo]

Some clutch bells have a longer reach than others, too. I know the OFNA clutch bells (http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=32_38) are longer than the HPI clutch bells (http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=32_38) for the Savage, but I'm not sure how they compare to a Duratrax bell. Keep in mind also that the Duratrax bell is set up for flanged clutch bell bearings, while the rest of the world uses unflanged 5x10x4mm clutch bell bearings (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=53_54&products_id=173).

[skat]

I have the ofna and HPI clutch bells I will try to see if 1 will work better than the other. Also even though it do not fully line up it is binding a small amount any thoughts on why it is not like I can adjust the motor it is a fixed mount.

[dpc1234]

I have the ofna and HPI clutch bells I will try to see if 1 will work better than the other. Also even though it do not fully line up it is binding a small amount any thoughts on why it is not like I can adjust the motor it is a fixed mount.

I use this flywheel on my Axial .32 - SG Crank

Ofna Flywheel 3-Pin Ultra GTP (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001101885&I=LXBZS8&P=K)

With the Ofna Alum 3 shoe and a Racers Edge 14T bell. The Combo lines up perfectly with the spur. Also, the stock motor mount is adjustable from the bottom.

[doesgo]

Yep, that's the same one I linked to, OFNA #10040.

[skat]

I use this flywheel on my Axial .32 - SG Crank

Ofna Flywheel 3-Pin Ultra GTP (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001101885&I=LXBZS8&P=K)

With the Ofna Alum 3 shoe and a Racers Edge 14T bell. The Combo lines up perfectly with the spur. Also, the stock motor mount is adjustable from the bottom.


I did not notice that I will have to try it. Thanks

[mcdanielbc]

I installed a racers edge .32 engine in my Warhead. I upgraded the clutch and installed an 18t bell on it. The car will not shift into second gear if I floor it from a dead start. I have to let it shift into second at about half throttle before I can open it up. Does any one know what’s wrong? I think the engine may have to much torque for the transmission. Also, the engine dies out at a high RPM after running it for about 200ft. If I richen the high speed it makes this problem go away. However, the engine heat is only getting to about 190 degrees. Another problem is the engine is a little sluggish off the line. Does anyone know what is wrong with my tuning?

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

I think all your problems are related to one item. It sounds like you have the LHS set way to rich, and your HSN set a little to lean. Before we go any further how many tanks of fuel do you have through your engine? If you are still going through the break in cycle you really should be running both the LSN and HSN on the rich side.

Getting it to shift into second at half throttle is called cheating the clutch. You bring it up to half throttle then hold the rpms; under no load this is enough for the wieghts in the tranny to overcome the spring engage second gear (there are some physics here but I don't think you want to hear about Newton, gravity and a rotational mass).

I would take the engine back to the factory settings and then start by leaning out the HSN 1/8 turn at a time untill you have the best mixture of performance and smoke (never run without some coming from the exhaust). Once you have the topend set it's time to work on the bottom end. One method is to use the pinch test. With the eninge warmed up, drive it around for 3 to 5 minutes, pinch the fuel line and listen to how the engine reacts. It should idle normally for 1-2 seconds then speed up for 2-3 seconds before dying. If it takes longer then 3 seconds to speed up the engine is running to rich. Lean out the LSN 1/8 turn and run the truck out a little to clear the engine. Bring it back and try the test again. This should give you good acceleration from idle through topend. With the engine set right you should be catching second gear between 30 and 50' depending on the load on the truck. Note: If you are running in high drag places (on sand or mud or in heavy grass) the truck might not shift. This is due to the engine never reaching the needed rpms to make the change. If you constantly run in these kind of areas you'll need to tune the transmission to make the shift. You do this by turning the 1.5mm set screw in the transmission counter clockwise (to the left) 1/8 turn at a time until the tranny shifts where you want it to.

[mcdanielbc]

Thanks for your help. The engine is not running that bad. I think I need to try to lean out the LSN. I just feel that it could run a lot better of the line. It bogs for about 2 seconds and then takes off. I had to re glue the tires from the torque. I am really worried about the transmission because the engine is revving extremely high. I actually did not realize that the car was not shifting into second gear for the first couple of tanks after break end. I noticed by mistake. The top end in second gear is probably to fast. The car actually did a front roll after locking up the breaks after full throttle in second gear. I have been running it on pavement.

[twisted]

so what are the problems with this truck ? i have scanned through the 10 pages of post and read some issues withthe tank and the carb and also the bulkheads..anythign else ?

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

There are some that have had problems with the servo saver, but most of these broke out in cold weather. I bought an alloy servo saver for mine. Also, if you put it in "rumble mode" be ready to have it roll over. Sure it will go almost anywhere but it will roll over in a strong gust of wind or any kind of turn at speed. The carb truly sucks and Duratrax knows this. It is my understanding that if you call them with a problem they will send out a new one, which actually works, at no charge.

I own five trucks (a T-Maxx, Savage .25 rtr with the 3 speed and reverse, a Mammoth MT with reverse, a Terra Crusher, and the Warhead) and with the Warhead in rumble mode there is not a jump that I won’t take it over. The basic setup is, in my opinion, as strong and even stronger in some places as the Savage. Even with the missed up carb it can take my Savage off the line. Those that are having troubles with the transmission probably have a bad carb and will be chasing the setup for ever until they get it fixed. Once the truck is running right it is a blast to drive and a beast at bashing. Check out RC Universe’s review of the Warhead here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=625

[twisted]

i read the review.whats exactly wrong with the carb ?

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

On my Warhead it seems that it dumps unburnt fuel at idle and runs lean on the topend. Some think that it is how the fuel lines are routed, others say it is an air leak, and even some more claim there are problems with the spary rod. To be honest I have rerouted my fuel lines and sealed the carb and that didn't change anything. No matter what I do it is spewing unburnt fuel. I know its unburnt fuel because I idle it over some wax paper to see what is coming out of the exhaust. I haven't called Duratrax yet hoping to fix it on my own but I am about ready to. The last thing I am going to do is try to use a much smaller ID pressure line. I want to see if maybe the system is over pressuring the carb at idle and flooding it out.

[twisted]

your gonna get unburnt fuel out of the pipe at idle if the low end is to rich.

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

your gonna get unburnt fuel out of the pipe at idle if the low end is to rich.

Well that is kind of a given isn't it. Let me put it another way, there is no sweet spot on the low idle screw. There seems to be no point where you can have it rich without dumping fuel. And, by the time you get it to stop dumping fuel you're so lean that it overheats. I had mine out today in 68* weather with 55% humidity. The factory settings are 12.5 turns out on the low side and 4.5 turns on the high side. Those are the break in settings from Duratrax. At those settings, with the body off, my engine was running at 315*. I tried to richen the HSN out and it never dropped the temps. At 5 turns out it would no longer slow to an idle but would flood out when I released the throttle. At one point the truck turned over and started to diesel. Before I could reach it the engine started to smoke and was at 402* and this was still on the very rich settings. I have pulled the carb and used silicone to seal it to the block. I am going to pull the back plate and try sealing that but I am also calling Duratrax for a new carb.

A half hour earlier I had my Savage out and had no problems at all. In fact I finally pulled it off its overly rich setting and got a real good tune on it. I had it pulling wheelies, on grass, on demand and it hit all three gears, even going up hill, with no effort. The .25 in it never saw the high side of 270*. During this whole time my wife was running her 24.7 Mammoth and she also didn’t see above 270* degrees. We timed the Mammoth with our radar gun at 49.8 MPH before we ran out of room. The Mammoth, though not a great jumper, has some serious legs to it.

The Savage hit 41.3 MPH but also ran out of room. From the way it ran I would say the Savage will hit at least 45 if not more and the Mammoth could hit 55. We’re going to a large factory that has a 3 block long parking lot on Saturday so we should get full runs on them to see just how fast they truly are.

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

I tried to start A new thread about this but could not so I'll post it here. I just got this email from Tiger Drive...

Almost ready! The S707 for the Warhead will be available within two weeks.
We designed and prototyped a TigerDrive for the Warhead on a crash
program. Let's just say lots of folks have asked. The side frames of the Warhead
block all normal access, so we had to custom design a TigerDrive for this
specific truck.

The prototype was tested last week and works fine.

The P/N will be S707. It has a machined aluminum case. It will cost
$32.95. Ifyou want to send in a check for that plus $3.50 shipping (36.45 total)
we'll send you one of the first ones. Please send to:

Attn: Sales
Sullivan Products
P.O. Box 5166
Baltimore Md 21224

Thanks!

[twisted]

when i get a new truck/engine i always seal the carb and backplate.are you still running the header tank ? try running it without it and see what happens. whats duratrax say ?

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

I talked to Duratrax today and I told them about the engine blowing raw fuel out of the pipe while at idle with the LSN at 12.5 turns out and running hot at 4.5 turns on the HSN. They told me to send in the engine. They fell that it is not a carb issue; rather there must be something else wrong.

[twisted]

hmmmmmm.atleast they are taking care of it. to bad you will have down time with that truck.

[smallman28]

Someone I work with has a kid next door who purchased a Warhead when his family went on holiday to the USA.
He only got it going once before something went wrong with the engine,he sent the engine back to where he got it and they sent it on to Duratrax.
3 months later he got it back minus the flywheel/clutch,another 6 weeks later those parts turned up.
He has since out it all back together and got it going,on his second run however he stripped the spur gear,another 4 week wait for parts.
I think that it stripped cause they put it back together with the mesh tight together,he did says it smelt when it run it so I think that was the clutch frying.
Is the spur gear weak on this car?
I am going to have a look at it when he gets all the parts.
This kid is only 9 and he used all his money to get it and has used it for about 20mins in the space of nearly 5 months.

[randomt-maxxguy]

Ok boys and girls, I just wanted to toss my 2 cents in to let any new people needing some quick info know what I was able to do to whip my Warhead into shape.

First I would like to encourage anyone that is new to nitro r/c to read through this thread, I got a lot of good info from it and I am not even new to nitro!

I would also like to point out that all the little quirks that everyone is having are pretty much universal and you WILL have to deal with them yourself. Also check out Ashburg's website, do what he did and you will probably have a very solid machine. On the other hand, I was looking to spend very little on a new truck that I just bought, so heres the solution I came up with:

The stock clutch shoes suck, as everyone has rightly been saying. Shortly after break-in I pulled the engine, and sure enough, the spring was wearing on the clutch bell. Rather than buy a whole new clutch bell and flywheel, I just got the stock 2-shoe savage clutch shoe setup, and they fit right on. They even have the individual springs like I like! :eek:

The exhaust gasket on the rear of the engine should be replaced ASAP with an HPI replacement, it made a noticeable difference on mine and now it isn't blowing nitro all over my chassis either. Also an extremely cheap fix.

As for the carb, yeah its not the greatest, but upon pulling it I discovered that the lower o-ring was torn from installation, and I think that had a direct link to the overheating problem I was having. Air leak, bad news. New o-rings are cheap, its waiting for them to come from tower that kills you. You should check this because it is not isolated to my case, its pretty widespread to have the cut/torn o-rings. Before I even pulled the carb, I jumped on ebay and grabbed a GS Storm carb for $11 after shipping, its the same thing as the XTM 24.7 carb, and it fit perfectly. Just look for a 14mm carb and you should be ok. HPI and XTM 14mm carbs are both supposed to fit, if you've done your research here. I haven't run mine with the new carb yet, but I really don't foresee any problems with it. If there are I will be back on here shortly to reprimand myself for posting this so soon. I am still waiting on a replacement throttle servo from DTX.

For flooding, don't just keep yanking on the cord, it will not start and you will only break your cord. The easiest thing to do is to loosen the glow plug 1/2 a turn and then tighten it back in once the engine is started. I haven't lost a pull start yet using this method. There are also other methods posted here, but I will leave that up to you to find them, this is what worked best for me.

Other than that the only advice I can offer is don't crash. You will break your servo saver, its just a fact of life. Keep some spares onhand. Also the bulkheads are no better if not worse than my t-maxx bulks were. So keep that in mind.

And oh yeah, the only reason I managed to crash mine was because the crappy radio lost signal and ran down the street on me and found a curb. It was a decent crash, but wouldn't have busted a savage. Needless to say, it busted my bulkheads and servo saver. So a failsafe is an extremely good investment, especially since they can be had for under $13 on tower hobbies. If it saves you from 1 runaway crash it has already paid for itself. It is, in fact, an investment, and it will pay out cash money.

I would like to point out that I am not trying to steal the information all you hard working posters have come up with, I just wanted to place the major points in one easily accessible post, and point out the cheap and easy way to do a few things, because there is a huge amount of information here and its hard to sift through it all, and to make heads or tails of it, especially for the new guys. You guys are the true heros and I appreciate all the sharing of info you've found. :cool:

Good luck!! :D

[ashburg]

Cool! Glad you got something out of my blog...I was told yesterday that Duratrax is sending people to it LOL...I wonder if DTX has a good dental plan :rolleyes:

Ok boys and girls, I just wanted to toss my 2 cents in to let any new people needing some quick info know what I was able to do to whip my Warhead into shape.

First I would like to encourage anyone that is new to nitro r/c to read through this thread, I got a lot of good info from it and I am not even new to nitro!

I would also like to point out that all the little quirks that everyone is having are pretty much universal and you WILL have to deal with them yourself. Also check out Ashburg's website, do what he did and you will probably have a very solid machine. On the other hand, I was looking to spend very little on a new truck that I just bought, so heres the solution I came up with:

The stock clutch shoes suck, as everyone has rightly been saying. Shortly after break-in I pulled the engine, and sure enough, the spring was wearing on the clutch bell. Rather than buy a whole new clutch bell and flywheel, I just got the stock 2-shoe savage clutch shoe setup, and they fit right on. They even have the individual springs like I like! :eek:

The exhaust gasket on the rear of the engine should be replaced ASAP with an HPI replacement, it made a noticeable difference on mine and now it isn't blowing nitro all over my chassis either. Also an extremely cheap fix.

As for the carb, yeah its not the greatest, but upon pulling it I discovered that the lower o-ring was torn from installation, and I think that had a direct link to the overheating problem I was having. Air leak, bad news. New o-rings are cheap, its waiting for them to come from tower that kills you. You should check this because it is not isolated to my case, its pretty widespread to have the cut/torn o-rings. Before I even pulled the carb, I jumped on ebay and grabbed a GS Storm carb for $11 after shipping, its the same thing as the XTM 24.7 carb, and it fit perfectly. Just look for a 14mm carb and you should be ok. HPI and XTM 14mm carbs are both supposed to fit, if you've done your research here. I haven't run mine with the new carb yet, but I really don't foresee any problems with it. If there are I will be back on here shortly to reprimand myself for posting this so soon. I am still waiting on a replacement throttle servo from DTX.

For flooding, don't just keep yanking on the cord, it will not start and you will only break your cord. The easiest thing to do is to loosen the glow plug 1/2 a turn and then tighten it back in once the engine is started. I haven't lost a pull start yet using this method. There are also other methods posted here, but I will leave that up to you to find them, this is what worked best for me.

Other than that the only advice I can offer is don't crash. You will break your servo saver, its just a fact of life. Keep some spares onhand. Also the bulkheads are no better if not worse than my t-maxx bulks were. So keep that in mind.

And oh yeah, the only reason I managed to crash mine was because the crappy radio lost signal and ran down the street on me and found a curb. It was a decent crash, but wouldn't have busted a savage. Needless to say, it busted my bulkheads and servo saver. So a failsafe is an extremely good investment, especially since they can be had for under $13 on tower hobbies. If it saves you from 1 runaway crash it has already paid for itself. It is, in fact, an investment, and it will pay out cash money.

I would like to point out that I am not trying to steal the information all you hard working posters have come up with, I just wanted to place the major points in one easily accessible post, and point out the cheap and easy way to do a few things, because there is a huge amount of information here and its hard to sift through it all, and to make heads or tails of it, especially for the new guys. You guys are the true heros and I appreciate all the sharing of info you've found. :cool:

Good luck!! :D

[Dino451]

There is alot to read here, what is the jist it.

Problem areas?
Performance in offroad conditions?
Upgrades from stock? Manufactures and part # if possible. Thnks a bunch, your answers will sway my descision on to RECOMMEND the Warhead to someone.

[smallman28]

Help please,I have been landed with fixing on of these.
As far as I can tell there are a couple of bits missing,being in the UK spares are a bit awkward to come by!
I am missing a bearing,part number DTXC1535,I have tried some other bearing of a similar size but everytime I use one and fit the spur gear assembly the transmission becomes so tight it barely turns.
Is this normal?
The person who has asked me to fix it has broken the first spur gear just by starting the truck,it started and the gear shredded.

[inkcube]

my warhead sucks! its a week old and already needs repair, i'm not even done breaking it in. the rear body mount was sheered during shipping or just bad - i found that it was broke when i was adjusting it to put the body on for the first time (happen after my second tank) today while running the 5th tank on pavement a front steering mount broke while turning. i called duratrax and treated rudely when i asked about getting my money back - refunds are not an option. i was told that i should have inspected the warhead while i was at my LHS with an LHS employee. if i sent the truck in they would fix it but i would be without the truck for 4-6 weeks. this is my 4th nitro car/truck and i have had it for one week and it will be out of service for 4 weeks.

my thoughts are if it breaks this easily on pavement what while happen on dirt!

the up side is my LHS owner is being very helpful, offering to give me the parts for free or help getting my money back.